out there Been there, climbed that? Send us a picture!
Glyder Fach The Cantilever on Glyder Fach in Snowdonia has been a great photographic subject for generations, but Stephen France captured a superb moment with these Wirral Met outdoor ed students. Careful you don’t break it, guys!
4 Trail SEPTEMBER 2011
out there 4-7 sep11 lpswpssi.indd 4
19/07/2011 11:48
Send us your shots, share your adventures
Email your photos to us, along with a description of what was special about your day, and we’ll publish the most inspiring examples! Put ‘Out There’ in the subject box, and send them to trail@bauermedia.co.uk
SEPTEMBER 2011 Trail 5
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19/07/2011 11:49
contents out there skills
Where this month’s issue will take you...
4
Readers’ adventures
The best of your photos from on the hill
Text rescue
Beginners’ guide to GPS 48 Become a natty navigator in five easy steps
10
How your phone could save your life
Ben Nevis danger spots 52 Don’t get caught out on Britain’s highest
Update
12
Summit or survive?
14
Happenings from high places
Hydration masterclass 54 How much water do you need on the hill?
Adele Pennington on the ultimate dilemma
Dream peak
adventures
16
Why you have to climb A’ Mhaighdean
Meet a Welsh recordbreaker: page 12.
New! Ask Trail
56
Our team of experts solve your problems
your trail Trail Talk
18
Subscribe to Trail
34
Win! A Garmin GPS 44 New! The Trail tall tale 154
Great Gable really is this much fun – page 36.
Knoydart
22
Great Gable
36
Northern Ireland D iscover the mystical Mournes
64
T wenty miles, one Munro, scary weather... and at the end of it all, mainland Britain’s most remote hostelry. Pack your aspirin... S crambler? Ghost hunter? Explorer? There’s something for everybody in this ultimate mountain playground
p22 Adventure guaranteed! Walk the Rough Bounds of Knoydart in our 2-day epic route
8 Trail SEPTEMBER 2011
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SEPTEMBER 2011 p92
GEAR
Need a rucksack for year-round use? We test 40-50 litre packs that’ll take you from day walks to backpacking trips.
New! In the news
74
La Sportiva boots
76
Ultralight jackets
78
40-50 litre rucksacks
92
The latest products, the greatest inventions, the stuff you need to know about How do the innovative new Trango Guides perform on the hill? Find out in our in-depth test Stay dry in a waterproof that weighs less than a packet of Jaffa cakes. We test five models around 300g and tell you which is the best Need a new pack for year-round use? Eight versatile mid-size rucksacks go up against each other in our on-the-hill test
Buyer’s guide to gilets 104 Lightweight, limbless warmth: six bodywarmers deserving of a place in your pack
109
Used and abused
Hill-walking kit from Berghaus, Rab and Raichle gets the Knoydart treatment
ROUTES
ULTIMATE WEEKEND
LAKE DISTRICT
127
Stay in one place and walk for three days! Our first Ultimate Weekend gives three great routes from the heart of the northern Lakes
Thurso
ISLE OF LEWIS
7
ISLE OF SKYE
Shiel Bridge
Portree
Inverie Mallaig
Route 6 Y Glyderau Glyders Fach and Fawr, with the option of Tryfan thrown in for good measure
This month’s Classic Route takes you to the roof of Wales via Yr Aran and Snowdon’s south ridge, then descends over Y Lliwedd
TOM BAILEY
ROUTES FROM
/1 12 2 mile s
RICT
Skidda w 7
TRAI ROUTL E
FACTS
Lakes’ 4th highest peak
19.3km
LAKE D
/12 m
ISTRIC T
Skidda w
iles
MEDIA
LICENCE
NO. AM10
5/09
Lakes’ 4th highest peak
BAUER’S
5/09
NO. AM10
LICENCE
MEDIA
N WITH
BAUER’S
with 3D maps
CIATIO
Classic Route
IN ASSO
Route 13 Snowdon via Yr Aran and Y Lliwedd
139
19.3km
TRAI ROUTL E
Here’s a trio of routes from the self-proclaimed ‘Adventure FACTSof the Lake District’, says Graham Thompson... Capital
RIGHT
Snowdonia
Keswick LAKE D IST ol
N WITH
Don’t miss out on the joys of the moors. Our second Ultimate Weekend takes you to Dartmoor base camp and offers a mouthwatering itinerary
Thurso
ULTIMA TE W
Lairg
Ullapo
N COPY
123
Killarney Kenmare
3
LEWIS
S
© CROW
Snowdonia
Tralee
ISLE OF
HARRI
ISLE OF
CIATIO
121
Route 5 Curbar Edge A grit edge walk with scrambles aplenty
Dingle
4th Lakes’est high ak pe
Skiddaw 7
IN ASSO
Peak District
Route 4 Aonach Eagach A mountaineering challenge for the brave – especially if you do it backwards!
Route 10 High Willhays Route 11 West Devon Way Route 12 Belstone Ridge
133
■ S ■■■■ on-Tweed Berwick-up STRENUOUSNES ■■■■ ■ NAVIGATION ■■■■ ■ Jedburgh TECHNICALITY Ayr 1 TRAIL 1OO
RIGHT
119
ISLAY
Edinburgh
N COPY
West Highlands
Glasgow
© CROW
Route 3 Pinnacle Ridge A scramble you’ll be dining out on for years...
Braemar
FACTS
Always take a map on the hill
miles
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JURA continue the hill Bodelw Maps OS Explore . ughout ath s through Keswick TIC Betws Total asceyddan OS Glasgo this secti But District. Return Dare you try -y-Coe 0) OL4;Killarn w fields to the Lakeview nt 900 ISLAY SheffieldApplethw on d (1:25,00 back on and Tim ey0)Yo Southampt Minehead Brighton aite. 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The path climb 14 10 as the angl ends gradually park at y back to the 7-9 lake Latrigg. car e of the GRADIEN 16 district decr slop sep11 ease PROFILE T 12 es swhlps.indd 18 s and you final few Start take the 128 Applethw 6 NY281253 A path Carlside steps onto Carl 1400 aite 2 descends Tarn saddle ahea nestles in Side. slopes around now METRES 1200 Carl Side the of the dominate d, while Skid woods Latrigg through Skiddaw ABOVE 1000 at daw s the scen Skiddaw the A66 first before cross SEA 800 e. A clear and House LEVEL 600 into Kesw leading back ing 400 ick. 1 JURA
Okehampton
19.3km/12
Aberdeen
Aviemore
Invergarry
Fort William Oban
D
T LAKE DISTRIC
© CROWN COPYRIGHT IN ASSOCIATION WITH BAUER’S MEDIA LICENCE NO. AM105/09
117
WEEKEN
TRAIL ROUTE
Inverness
MULL
Lake District
ULTIMATE
Lairg Ullapool
HARRIS
9 NO. AM105/0
115
Route 2 Fisherfield An epic 2-dayer to the UK’s most remote peak
Route 7 Skiddaw Route 8 High Seat Route 9 Cat Bells
MEDIA LICENCE
NW Highlands
Keswick
ION WITH BAUER’S T IN ASSOCIAT
113
Route 1 Pen y Fan A six mile walk with plenty of Welsh drama
© CROWN COPYRIGH
Brecon Beacons
TRAIL ROUTES
200
MILES KILOMET RES
7-9 lake
dd
2
0 0
3 2
128 TRA IL SEP TEMBER 2011
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SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 9
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19/07/2011 17:52
SEPTE
out there
16 Trail SEPTEMBER 2011
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18/07/2011 15:25
DREAM PEAK A’ MHAIGHDEAN NW HIGHLANDS Situated in the heart of the Fisherfield Forest in Scotland’s northern Highlands, this is the most remote Munro in Britain.
DO IT! ››› TURN TO PAGE 115
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 17
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knoydart
Where? North-west Highlands What? 2-day Munro expedition Ladhar Bheinn rears grandly above Loch Hourn, a fearsome tick on this two-day pilgrimage – to a pub.
22 Trail SEPTEMBER 2011
new knoydart sep11 swhlps.indd 22
19/07/2011 17:33
H E AV E N A N D
HELL Fifty eight kilometres, two days, one of Scotland’s fiercest mountains and a question: just how far would you walk for a pint? WORDS SIMON INGRAM PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
B
eyond the old stone bridge, four ashen buildings mark the end of the road. Then there’s a track, which takes you past a tumbledown jetty to the edge of the loch. Follow this. Follow it to a little square of fence, seemingly blocking your way. You can see that beyond it, the track becomes skeletal as it creeps around the corner. Stop here. Stop, and make damn sure you know what a magnificent mess you’re about to get yourself into. Beyond here, Pilgrim, you’re in big trouble. It was the next day. Far from concerning ourselves with the above, the three of us were considering ourselves lucky. The day before had not been promising. There’s a lot of Britain to see between Lincolnshire and the west coast of Scotland, and all of it was drowning. That morning we’d left our wives and girlfriends covered in worry and driven through swaddled murk, steam and endless, joyless rain into the rafters of Britain ❯ for the thick end of 13 hours. It was like going for a drive in a rinse cycle.
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 23
new knoydart sep11 swhlps.indd 23
19/07/2011 09:11
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Words Simon Ingram
£20
or visit us online at
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/trail subs petzl sep11 sisw.indd 35
Lines open 8am-9.30pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-4pm (Sat) OverseasSEPTEMBER readers call +44 1858 438828TRAIL 2011
??
18/07/2011 17:49
LAKE district
Napes Needle spearing the sky with the Scafells behind.
Where? Great Gable, Lake District What? All-round adventure 36 Trail SEPTEMBER 2011
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18/07/2011 09:33
The best view, the birth of rock-climbing, the seat of multiple mysteries. This is…
Britain’sultimate mountain playground Words Hanna Lindon Photographs Tom Bailey
T
ry picking one mountain to encapsulate everything that’s fabulous about being in the British hills. Oh go on, give it a go. Would it be Snowdon? Great ridge walks and a cracking view, granted, but that tarmacked tourist path is a real turn-off. How about Tryfan? It’s a shapely old rascal to be sure – shame that the summit is scramblers-only territory. But Great Gable... It’s the symbol of the Lake District National Park and the seat of our country’s democratically elected ’Favourite View’. Its history reads like a book of children’s fairytales: dirty smugglers, daring feats and more ghost stories than you could shake a stick at. Most of all it’s a hot-bed of multi-activity adventure; blossom for the butterflies of scrambling, hill-walking and climbing. You could spend days here, following a treasure trail of mountain discovery, and still barely have skimmed the cream off the top of the milk churn. You’d have to be really stupid to try to pack everything Gable has to offer into the course of one day. So, how long did Trail have when we rolled up at the Wasdale side of the mountain on a drizzly midsummer evening? � Yup, you guessed it...
SEPTEMBER 2011 Trail 37
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skills
Trail's Skills section is put together by outdoor experts to help you get the best out of yourself in the UK's high places. Here you can get cutting-edge information, handy hints and tips – and expert advice tailored especially for you. Simply ask Trail!
skills cover sep11 sisw.indd 47
guide to... Getting started with GPS
48
mountain safety Ben Nevis danger spots
52
masterclass Hydration
54
ask trail Map and compass woes Gaiters – why, where and when? One boot for year-round use Get fitter for the hills
56 57 59 62
19/07/2011 14:04
TRAIL SKILLS
YOUR PROBLEMS SOLVED BY OUR HILL-WALKING EXPERTS
Ben Nevis danger spots The summit plateau of Britain’s highest mountain is fraught with danger. Here Trail’s mountaineering editor Jeremy Ashcroft advises on a safe descent...for any weather.
Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) Arête NN178721
The CMD Arête provides a challenging alternative route. In summer it gives a simple Grade 1 scramble with lots of comforting pinnacles to hold onto and shimmy between. However, in snow the pinnacles disappear, turning the route into a narrow and very exposed crest. You’ll certainly need be proficient moving over mixed ground using an ice axe and crampons, and be used to exposure. High winds make progress either very difficult or impossible.
E X P E RT T I P ! In winter as well as adequate warm clothing you will need ice axe and crampons, and the skills to use them. Goggles are also essential as map reading and navigation will be severely compromised in windblown snow. Check for avalanche alerts before you set out at SportScotland Avalanche Information Service (www.sais.gov.uk) where you can sign up for SMS alerts from October/November.
The zigzags
NN157713 The zigzags are often obliterated by snow so it is vital stay alert and keep up with the map and compass work.
Red Burn NN147718
At the bottom of the zigzags you’ll cross the Red Burn to reach ‘Halfway Lochan’ (Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe). When banked out with snow the slope is steep and exposed, requiring great care to cross safely.
52 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011
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MOUNTAIN SAFETY Eastern Shoulder
NN169710 This gives access to the CMD Arête from the summit and the route down to Steall in Glen Nevis. This shoulder forms a steep convex slope and is also prone to wind scour and low temperatures, which can make it very icy. Careful footwork is critical here as a fall would be very hard to arrest. Can be avalanche-prone.
The plateau
The main problem for hill-walkers is getting off the plateau safely when it has a covering of snow. Winter snows can lie up to 30ft deep with fragile cornices extending over crag edges for over 40ft, and often the snow lasts well into the summer months. Regular whiteouts and high winds make navigation extremely difficult. ❯❯ You have to walk on two very precise bearings to find the safe route down – so you need to be pretty handy with a map and compass. From the trig point summit (NN166712) follow a bearing of 231° (grid bearing) for 150m, then 282° (grid bearing) down McLean’s Steep to Getting offzigzags. the summit visibility. the start of the A new setinofbad navigation cairns have been built to aid clearing the plateau, but although they are tall, some still bank out after heavy snowfall.
Fiv eF ing er
Gu lly
Rid ully
To we r
Pon y PTo rancyk
Gard yloo G
Co mb
lly Gu
No
k
.2
Gu lly
ac
The
No .3
Tr ny
o PoPny
ge
Coire na Ciste
No.4 Gully
Trig. Trig. point point
2 Then turn to a grid bearing of 282˚ 1. 1 First walk on a grid bearing of 231˚ for 150m
Gardyloo Gully
NN165711 The first leg of the bearing gets you away from the cornices at the head of Gardyloo Gully, but beware: these cornices can be huge, and they lie only 35m away from the line of the bearing.
Five Finger Gully
An aerial view of Ben Nevis from the west.
STUART SMITH
NN157712 The second bearing takes you down the steepening of McLean’s Steep and on to the easier slopes at the top of the zigzags. This is not a time to relax, however, as it is easy to drift left off your bearing, which will take you onto the steep convex slopes at the head of Five Finger Gully. Can be avalanche-prone.
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 53
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ask trail
your problems solved by our hill-walking experts So you’ve got a problem that needs solving, but don’t want to lose face with your mountain mates? Don’t worry, Trail’s expert team is here to help… Graham thompson
GT has been Trail’s technical editor for the last 20 years, and he’s a fountain of knowledge on all aspects of walking kit.
Simon ingram Trail’s acting editor and Mountain Leader trainee has been on more mountains than most of us could dream about.
jeremy ashcroft
Mountaineering ed Jeremy has a wealth of experience in the UK and overseas, and he’s here to solve your problems.
PeteR mAcfarlane Peter’s our lightweight expert, and he can give you all the advice you need about saving weight on the hill.
How do I use my compass? Q
Despite having a GPS, a map and a compass, I recently got lost on the Glyders in cloud. As a result, I vowed I’d learn to use the compass properly if I got back safely! I know I should know, but please - how do I set a bearing and follow it? Adrian Carling, via email
A
In mist, many popular hills can be confusing, and the Glyders plateau is a great example. There aren’t many obvious landmarks, so it’s easy to become disorientated if you’ve wandered from the path. In dense hill fog, it can be an unnerving experience – and it’s not unknown for experienced walkers to get spooked. To sort yourself out, you need to know where you are, and you need a map and compass. If you have a GPS, switch it on and get a position, because knowing your grid ref is the first stage in becoming unlost! Once you know where you are, follow the steps below to get back on track...
Ask us a question! If you’ve got a question about hillwalking, don’t suffer in silence. Get in touch and ask our team. ›› Post your queries to: Ask Trail, Trail, Bauer, Media House, Lynch Wood, Peterborough PE2 6EA. Even better, email us: trail@bauermedia.co.uk and put ‘Ask Trail’ in the subject box. (Sorry, but we can only answer the questions that appear in the magazine.)
56 Trail SEPTEMBER 2011
1
2
Set the direction of travel
Set your grid bearing
Find your position on your map using a GPS or an identifiable point on the hill, such as a trig point or known landmark. Using the edge of the baseplate of your compass, line up your current position with the intended destination point, ensuring that the direction-of-travel arrow (the arrow on the base plate of the compass) is pointing from where you are towards the destination point.
Now rotate the bezel of the compass so the lines on the base of the bezel match up exactly with the north-south grid lines on the map. Make sure the red half of the compass lines are at the top, and the black half are at the bottom. Don’t worry about where the needle points at this stage, as it really doesn’t matter – all you’re doing is using your compass as a protractor to get the correct angle.
your questions answered What are gaiters for?
Q
I’m new to hill-walking, and I’ve see loads of people wearing gaiters. I understand why people would wear them in the snow, as they obviously stop the white stuff getting in your boots, but are they necessary on dry days in the warmer months? Karen Richards, via email
A
Although they’re primarily designed for use in snow and on boggy ground, a lot of walkers wear gaiters in all weathers, as they protect your footwear, laces and trousers from everything nature dishes out, including sharp rocks, mud, dust and scree, as well as peat and puddles. On hotter days, you can roll them down on easy sections to ventilate your legs, but having them attached to your boots is much better than having them stashed away. Leaving your gaiters in your pack until you need them is a sure-fire way to get wet feet, because you won’t bother to put them on when you reach the bog!
Don’t forget to add a few degrees for magnetic variation. Check the map key for the correct figure.
3
4
5
Add the magnetic variation
Get on target
Find a target point
You’ve now set your grid bearing, but for this to work in the real world, you need to replace grid north (shown on the map) with magnetic north (where the red end of the compass needle points). To do this, you need to add the magnetic variation that’s printed on the map. This is normally a few degrees in the UK, but varies hugely around the world. Add this by carefully twisting the bezel.
You now have the magnetic bearing you need to follow, so keep your compass away from anything metal and hold it level at stomach height. Make sure that the direction-of-travel arrow on the compass base plate is pointing away from you, and rotate your body until the red end of the needle points to north (the N symbol) on the rotating bezel. You’ll now be facing the right way.
Look along the direction-of-travel arrow on the compass base plate and find a fixed feature in the landscape that the arrow points to, such as a tree or rock. Don’t try to hold the compass and ‘walk on a bearing’, as it’s difficult to stay on course. It’s more accurate to walk to a feature ahead that lies in the direction of travel. Walk to the point, and when you get there, repeat with another target point.
SEPTEMBER 2011 Trail 57
25km/15½miles
central highlands
northern Ireland
Where? Mournes, Northern Ireland What? Exploring some magic mountains Descending into the Silent Valley, surrounded by the majestic Mourne Mountains.
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Craggy hills, cracking climbs and towering tors, these peaks offer all the allure of a foreign destination but you can still use your British pounds, drive on the left and speak the lingo. Ladies and gentlemen…
Meet the
Mournes Words Phoebe Smith Photographs Neil S Price
o
nce upon a time a young girl called Lucy opened a wardrobe door and found herself in a captivating land of majestic mountains and mythical forests. That girl had opened the door to Narnia, but the place that this girl had just found herself in was even more magical. I had arrived at the Mourne Mountains, the real landscape that inspired author CS Lewis to create the classic children’s tale The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe and its enchanted world. But unlike Lucy, who’d required a huge dose of magic and a closet to transport her here, all I’d needed was a ferry – and I hadn’t even had to remember my passport. Situated in the south-east corner of Northern Ireland, and less than an hour’s drive from Belfast, this cluster of wild and craggy peaks dominates the landscape from the seaside town of Newcastle to the village of Rostrevor. They offer all the perks of hill-walking in the UK mainland – the same language, currency and right-hand-drive cars – but the mountains here rival anything you’ll find in continental Europe. Their seaside location means post-walk beach lounging, the hills hide 26 climbing crags with over 900 graded routes – and the mountains offer first-class walking that belie their contour height. Like many hill-walkers I’d put off visiting the Mournes before because I’d � SEPTEMBER 2011 Trail 65
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TOM BAILEY
MAGAZINE
MAGAZINE
BEST IN TEST BEST VALUE
GEAR
Only the best products receive Trail's Best in Test or Best Value awards. Keep your eyes peeled for them!
ABOUT OUR TESTS Our tests are carried out by experts so you know you're getting a proper verdict based on years of experience. To keep things consistent, prices are the manufacturers' suggested retail price, and our five star ratings are as clear as it gets...
NEWS DAMP-PROOF DOWN! LA SPORTIVA TRANGO GUIDE ULTRALIGHT JACKETS RUCKSACKS 40 -50 LITRE BUYERS' GUIDE GILETS USED & ABUSED TRIP REPORT
✱ ✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱
74 76 78 92 104 109
POOR BELOW AVERAGE AVERAGE GOOD PERFORMANCE THE BEST IN ITS CLASS
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 73
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GROUP TEST
W 78 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011
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WATERPROOF JACKETS JACKETS ON TEST MONTANE MINIMUS £120 MARMOT SUPER MICA £160 GOLITE MALPAIS TRINITY £180 OMM CYPHER £210 HAGLÖFS ENDO £220
ultralight
WATERPROOF JACKETS Why burden yourself with wet-weather gear when there’s a wide choice of waterproofs that weigh less than a packet of biscuits?
TEST GRAHAM THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 79
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GROUP TEST WHAT WE TESTED BERGHAUS FREEFLOW PRO 40 £100 POD PHOENIX 45 £100 DEUTER FUTURA PRO 42 £110 LIGHTWAVE FASTPACK 50 £115 FJÄLLRÄVEN FRILUFT 45 £120 OSPREY ATMOS 50 £120 MAMMUT CREON PRO £125 LOWE ALPINE NANON 40:45 £140
40-50 litre
RUCKSACKS
Large enough for lightweight camping yet small enough for hill-walks and scrambling, a 40-50 litre rucksack fits the bill for all manner of mountain action. Here we test the best. TEST GRAHAM THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
92 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011
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40-50 LITRE RUCKSACKS
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 93
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gear
used and abused
Team Trail’s kit sees more action than most – here’s where we tell you how it did.
(See page 22)
t r i p r e p o rt
Dr Ka-Wai Mo Knoydart
Berghaus
ACCELERATOR EXTREM JACKET £130 This jacket is a size XS, which is extremely hard to find nowadays. It was worth hunting for - I picked this one up for its bargain price at an outlet store in Hampshire –as it means my hands can be used, whereas with other jackets’ bigger sizes I was left wondering how far lost up the sleeves they were. It’s a really good design: the hood can be rolled up when not in use, there are stretch panels that allow for good movement, and I can reach all the pockets when I’m wearing a rucksack. The fabric is Gore-Tex XCR Raptor, which has good durability while remaining light in weight. Looks great, too! www.berghaus.com
rab Latok alpine pants £155 I use these 3-layer eVent waterproof pants as overtrousers in rain and in cold weather, which we definitely had in Knoydart – I kept them on for the full trip. They’re terrific as they’re not too heavy but still durable, and they have articulated knees and patches on the inside of the legs to protect from crampon scratches. They have 3/4 length zips along the legs, too, so they’re easy to get on and off. www.rab.uk.com
Raichle mt guide £125 I’ve had these for about 3 years and they’re still going strong. I’ve got wide forefeet, so the width is perfect for me, while my heels are small, so I wear thicker socks and add a little heel pad. They are superbly waterproof: I’ve yet to get wet feet. I recently went to Skye and the hard edge of the boots made me confident scrambling on the rough rock. [Mammut now owns Raichle.] www.mammut.ch
SEPTEMBER 2011 Trail 109
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Clockwise from Left: Tom Hutton, Chiz Dakin, Tom Hutton, Peter MacFarlane, Paul Milligan, Ronald Turnbull
P121
P123 P113
Routes
p117
Trail Routes use OS mapping and gradient profiles, and are written by walking experts. This month we feature six designed to push your boundaries – so look out for the handy tip box that will help you gain summit success! Download these routes and GPS waypoints at lfto.com/routes
P119 P115
1 2 3 4 5 6
Pen y Fan fisherfield Pinnacle Ridge Aonach Eagach curbar Edge y Glyderau
9.7km 45km 18.5km 9.7km 9.4km 9.2km
p113 p115 p117 p119 p121 p123
ultimate weekend – keswick 19.3km p128 7 Skiddaw 8 bleaberry fell 25km p129 25.2km p130 9 Catbells ultimate weekend – okehampton 10 High Willhays 16km p134 11 West devon way 21.7km p135 12 Belstone Ridge 13km p136 classic route 13 Snowdon
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20km p139 18/07/2011 15:35
ULTIMATE WEEKEND
LAKE DISTRICT
A snow-sprinkled Skiddaw (left) rises above Keswick and Derwent Water.
TOM BAILEY
ROUTES FROM
3
Keswick
TRAIL ROUTES
Here’s a trio of routes from the self-proclaimed ‘Adventure Capital of the Lake District’, says Graham Thompson...
Honi 0176
Buses
© CROWN COPYRIGHT IN ASSOCIATION WITH BAUER’S MEDIA LICENCE NO. AM105/09
Traveline 0871 200 2233
Trains
ROUTE 7 19.3km
Station at Penrith 0845 000 8000
Taxis
Keswick Cab Company 0800 633 5746
ROUTE 8 25km
Tourist info
Keswick TIC (017687) 72645
Local info
www.keswick.org www.keswickplus.co.uk
Castlehead Medical Centre, Keswick (017687) 72025 (24 hours) www.castlehead.org.uk
(017687) 73177 HSBC, Keswick 0845 740 4404 Lloyds TSB, Keswick 0845 3000 000 Natwest, Keswick 0845 600 2803 Barclays, Keswick 0845 7555 555
Banks
Fuel
Events
www.golakes.co.uk
Medical
Britannia, Keswick
Dare you try the George's famous cow pie?
ROUTE 9 25.2km
Crosthwaite Service
Station, Crosthwaite Road, Keswick (017687) 74894 Derwent Service Station, Penrith Road, Keswick (017687) 72812
Pubs
Dog and Gun (017687) 73463 George Hotel (017687) 72076
Campsite
Castlerigg Farm (017687) 72479
(017687) 72178 Needle Sports (017687) 72227
Cafés
Hostels
Lakeland Pedlar Wholefood Café (017687) 74492 The Orange Square Café Bar (017687) 73888
Keswick Youth Hostel 0845 371 9746 Denton House (017687) 75351
Gear shops
Cranford House (017687) 71017
George Fisher
B&Bs
❯
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 127
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Thurso
WIS
7
KYE
Inverness
ee
Shiel Bridge
Aviemore
Inverie
Invergarry
Mallaig
TRAIL ROUTE
Aberdeen
LAKE DISTRICT
Braemar
th Lakes’ 4st highe peak
Fort William
MULL
Oban
JURA
FACTS
Glasgow
Y ISLE OF ARRAN
nd-
ls
he
hal-
d
ls
ick and
to Millbeck, where a footpath on the right climbs steeply alongside woods and up the southern slopes of Carl Side. You can see the path winding steeply up the slopes and it is clear from the start that this is a tough climb. But throughout this section the view back over Keswick to Derwentwater in Borrowdale and the surrounding peaks provides plenty of reason to stop and drink in the view.
1
Dumfries
Newcastle -upon-Tyne
(12 miles) Sheffield Bodelwyddan Total ascent 900m NY264255 Quiet lanes Betws-y-Coed Time Llangollen 7-8 hours lead from Applethwaite Derby Start/fi nish Keswick, Barmouth NY263235 Peterborough Aberystwyth Birmingham Terrain high-level fell-walk over one Hay-on-Wye Cardigan main peak, with clear Brecon Gloucester paths throughout and Oxford Pembroke long steady ascents Swansea and descents Cardiff Bristol Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Minehead Landranger (1:50,000) Southampton Brighton 89; Harvey Walker Exeter Poole (1:40,000) and Bodmin Superwalker (1:25,000) Plymouth Lakeland North Public transport railway station at Penrith with regular bus services to Keswick, from where bus services extend along the A591 – tel. 0870 608 2608; www.cumbria.gov.uk Guidebooks The Northern Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln
2
Autumnal slopes of Skiddaw rise above the car park on Latrigg.
5
4
NY260290 At 931m/ 3,054ft Skiddaw is the fourth highest peak in the Lake District. Return south for 500 metres and then descend in an easterly direction down the slopes to Sale How and onward downhill to Skiddaw House.
2
6
NY254281 The long climb ends gradually as the angle of the slopes decreases and you take the final few steps onto Carl Side. Carlside Tarn nestles in the saddle ahead, while Skiddaw dominates the scene. A clear
1
A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors. www.mapyx.com
GRADIENT PROFILE
Start
Applethwaite
1
2
1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200 MILES KILOMETRES
0 0
Carl Side Skiddaw
3 2
2
6
dd
Skiddaw House
6 10
8
NY281253 A path now descends around the slopes of Latrigg through woods at first before crossing the A66 and leading back into Keswick.
6
Pen yr Ole Wen
54
4 4
4
NY287291 Skiddaw House lies at 1,550ft above sea-level. A clear path continues south around the lower contours of the steep, crumbly slopes of Lonscale Fell and high above Glenderaterra Beck, with spectacular views. The path leads easily back to the car park at Latrigg.
5
3
Trail Routes in association with Mapyx
path climbs the western slopes of Skiddaw and this brings fine views west across Southerndale to the long arm of Longside Edge, one of Skiddaw’s most shapely features and a great way to approach the mountain. The path onto Skiddaw is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to the crumbly Skiddaw slate. Finally you reach the summit ridge and a short walk north leads to the summit.
4
3
© CROWN COPYRIGHT IN ASSOCIATION WITH BAUER’S MEDIA LICENCE NO. AM105/09
idon
Skiddaw
NY263235 Leave Keswick by walking Newton Stewart along the main road away Carlisle Stranraer from the centre of town and Penrith Keswick Middlesbrough cross the River Greta. At the next road junction a footpath Kendal Northallerton Windermere on the right can be traced Ingleton through Great Crosthwaite, Bentham York Lancaster past Keswick School and then Skipton Leeds over the A66. The footpath continues through fields to Liverpool Manchester Distance 19.3km Rhyl Applethwaite. Conway
Ballantrae
st
Edinburgh
STRENUOUSNESS ■ ■ ■■■ Berwick-upon-Tweed NAVIGATION ■ ■ ■■■ Ayr TECHNICALITY Jedburgh ■ ■ ■■■ TRAIL 1OO COUNT 1
Always take a map on the hill
19.3km/12 miles
ULTIMATE WEEKEND
Lairg Ullapool
Finish Finish
6 12
8
14
10 16
12 18
128 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011
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25km/15½ miles
ULTIMATE WEEKEND
LAKE DISTRICT
High Seat
TRAIL ROUTE
Rough and wild
FACTS STRENUOUSNESS ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ NAVIGATION ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ TECHNICALITY ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
1
Distance 25km (15½ miles) Total ascent 650m Time 7-8 hours Start/finish Keswick, NY263235 Terrain high-level fellwalk over moorland that can be very boggy after rain but with some clear paths and long steady ascents and descents Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 89; Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Lake District and Superwalker (1:25,000) Lakeland Central Public transport railway station at Penrith with regular bus services to Keswick, from where bus services extend along the A591 – tel. 0870 608 2608; www.cumbria.gov.uk Guidebooks Lakeland Fellranger: The Central Fells by Mark Richards, pb Cicerone
2
3
The vast moorland extending south from High Seat.
NY263235 Leave Keswick by walking south-east along St John’s Street, then turn right into Springs Road which leads to Springs Farm and then into Springs Wood. The footpath continues along Brockle Beck to Rakefoot Farm.
NY287180 Views to Helvellyn are impressive from High Seat and the ground is drier too as this is the highest point on the walk at 608m above sea-level. The walking continues south and again it is boggy after rain, so trend towards high ground to avoid the worst of it.
1
5
NY283221 Signs at Rakefoot Farm direct walkers along a path to Walla Crag, where spectacular views develop over Derwent Water.
2
NY295140 A clear path spans the ridge and can be traced northwest past Blea Tarn and down to Watendlath.
6
that leads down through the woods to Ashness Bridge.
8
NY275163 Cross Watendlath Beck as it flows from the tarn and then follow a path that descends above Watendlath Beck. Recross the beck via the bridge to join the road
7
A footpath 9 NY270195 leaves the road after Ashness Bridge and gently rises to Walla Crag. The route of ascent can then be retraced to Keswick.
Bleaberry Fell High Seat High Tove
Start
1 0 0
8
7
NY285195 The summit cairn of Bleaberry Fell provides extensive views over Keswick to Bassenthwaite Lake. The ridge route continues south across heather that can be very damp after rain. Trace the driest ground and then rise to High Seat.
MILES KILOMETRES
5
NY288165 At High Tove the route can be shortened by heading west to Watendlath. Otherwise stay high and continue south, while picking your way between the boggy areas to reach a clear path junction to the east of Blea Tarn.
4
1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200
4
6
A path 3 NY272204 continues over a stile to contour above Cat Gill from where a left fork leads along a path that climbs around Brown Knotts and onto Bleaberry Fell.
GRADIENT GRADIENT PROFILE PROFILE
9
8
2 2
3 2
5
4 6
8
A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors. www.mapyx.com
Watendlath
47
6
4 4
Trail Routes in association with Mapyx
6 10
Finish
8 8
12
14
© CROWN COPYRIGHT IN ASSOCIATION WITH BAUER’S MEDIA LICENCE NO. AM105/09
Always take a map on the hill
9 10 16
12 18
20
22
14
24
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 129
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9
LAKE DISTRICT
TRAIL ROUTE
Cat Bells
FACTS STRENUOUSNESS ■ ■ ■■■ NAVIGATION ■ ■ ■■■ TECHNICALITY ■ ■ ■■■
© CROWN COPYRIGHT IN ASSOCIATION WITH BAUER’S MEDIA LICENCE NO. AM105/09
n
Always take a map on the hill
25.2km/15¾ miles
ULTIMATE WEEKEND
NY263235 Leave Keswick by walking north-west along the main road away from the centre of town. Then immediately after you cross the River Greta a path on the left follows the Cumbria Way over the River Derwent towards Portinscale.
and then climbs onto Maiden Moor.
NY252235 In Portinscale some road walking is required before you can step back onto the footpaths through woods at Fawe Park. These paths continue to the foot of Cat Bells at Hawes End.
NY234162 The path descends steeply to the swampy bowl of Dalehead Tarn before climbing steeply up a rough scree path onto Dale Head.
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Distance 25.2km (15¾ miles) Total ascent 1000m Time 8 hours Start/finish Keswick NY263235 Terrain high-level fell-walk along clear paths and ridges with opportunities to change route; navigation not too difficult Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90; Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Lake District and Superwalker (1:25,000) Lakeland West Public transport regular railway services to Penrith with bus services to Keswick – tel. 0870 608 2608; www.cumbria.gov.uk Guidebooks Lakeland Fellranger: The NorthWestern Fells by Mark Richards, pb Cicerone
and follow a track southwest and then north-east that contours beneath Cat Bells. At Hawes End you meet the outbound route, which can be traced back to Keswick.
walk north along the ridge and then descend over May Crag and High Crags. Then continue more easily along a slender ridge to Scope End and Low Snab.
NY236181 Here the ridge is broad and there are crags tumbling steeply into the Newlands valley. The ridge dips and then rises to the top of High Spy.
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Keswick’s classic walk
NY229186 Here you join a lane that can be easily followed above the banks of Newlands Beck to the road at Little Town. Leave the road at Little Town
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NY223153 The walk continues north-west along a clear ridge known as Hindsgarth Edge, with the Buttermere valley to the left and more views to the Newlands valley to the right, and then turns north to Hindscarth.
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NY246211 The path leaves the roadside and climbs steeply up the northern nose of Cat Bells. This is a steep but fairly easy climb on a good path.
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NY244198 From the summit of Cat Bells the walk continues south along the broad ridge. The path descends to a saddle
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NY215165 From the summit of Hindscarth
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6 Trail Routes in association with Mapyx
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A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors. www.mapyx.com
The clear path to Cat Bells provides an easy start. GRADIENT PROFILE
Start
1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200 MILES KILOMETRES
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Cat Bells
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2 2
Maiden Moor High Spy
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Finish
Dale Head
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20km/12½ miles
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snowdonia
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tom bailey
STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY welsh 3000 count TRAIL 100 COUNT
Snowdon
On the way up Yr Aran, the south ridge and Snowdon on the right.
Jeremy Ashcroft links three peaks in this top option to the roof of Wales that takes in Yr Aran and Y Lliwedd along the way...
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nowdon is a complex mountain; in fact it’s a bit of a misnomer to call it a mountain, it’s better described as a massif. Within its vast boundaries it contains a stunning and diverse array of upland scenery ranging from narrow, airy ridges and dark, towering crags through to sparkling mountain lakes and mythical cwms. Individually many of these features can easily be tagged with a ‘Best in Wales’ label, but the trouble with so much drama to choose from is that it can often be a bit bewildering when making a route selection. The long south ridge from Yr Aran is a prime example of this ‘too many sweets in the sweet shop’ dilemma. Sitting between the secretively
enclosed Cwm Llan and the open expanses of the moors above Rhyd-Ddu, it falls well down the popularity list when compared with the likes of Crib Goch or the Pyg Track. This though is just down to the confines of the path, and if you look beyond the ‘step after step zone’ and embrace the wider landscape it easily gives any path on Snowdon a run for its money and most definitely deserves to be labelled a ‘classic route’. Taking an uncompromising line, the south ridge climbs straight to Snowdon’s summit cone from its starting point on the side of subsidiary peak Yr Aran. As it hits the 3000ft contour, there’s a thrill just after the route joins
the Rhyd-Ddu path, as the ridge narrows to give some real exposure at Bwlch Main. This is over all too soon as the ridge again broadens, but as height is gained a magnificent set of views open out to you. After the summit – usually busy, but the highest licensed premises in England and Wales if you’re after a positive – the route continues with a crossing of the stately Y Lliwedd followed by a return along the stunningly beautiful shores of Llyn Gwynant. This slightly oddball round will deliver aspects of Snowdon that few get to see, and it will stick in your memory just as long as a crossing of Crib Goch ever will. �
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SEPTEMBER 2011 Trail 139
classic route
tom bailey
13 trail route snowdonia The ridge to Y Lliwedd from the scree slopes that head up to Snowdon summit on the Watkin Path.
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www.trekmates.co.uk
'It easily gives any route on Snowdon a run for its money and definitely deserves to be labelled a classic route' SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 143
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