Country Walking May 2012 by Trail magazine

The

Destinations | Peak District

25TH BIRTHDA Y

IS S UE

to WHITE DARK A gift to all walkers on our 25th birthday: a new weekend trail

linking the greatest scenery in the Peak District. Come join us!

Words: Nick Hallissey Photos: Tom Bailey

Free fold-out

WHITE TO DARK MAP TURN TO PAGE 35

MAY 2012 COUNTRY WALKING 23

The

Destinations | Peak District

25TH BIRTHDA Y

IS S UE

to WHITE DARK A gift to all walkers on our 25th birthday: a new weekend trail

linking the greatest scenery in the Peak District. Come join us!

Words: Nick Hallissey Photos: Tom Bailey

Free fold-out

WHITE TO DARK MAP TURN TO PAGE 35

MAY 2012 COUNTRY WALKING 23

WISDOM

GEAR 1

BUTTER YOUR ZIPS 1988

At the start of a new walking season, you may find the zips on your waterproofs sticking. Don’t force them, but rub a soft pencil along their length – the graphite helps. In extreme cases, butter or margarine is a more suitable lubricant than traditional oil. Use only a small amount – the action of the zip will do the rest.

THERMOS YOUR SOCKS 1993

Wainwright’s philosophy was to get your feet wet early. Walk through the first stream you come to, then for the rest of the day you won’t need to pick your way past the boggy bits. A better tip goes like this: to beat damp feet, pack a fresh pair of socks, straight from the spin-drier, in a Thermos, and slip them on midway through your walk!

BAG YOUR FEET 2001

Putting on waterproof trousers when the heavens open can be a mucky business. Keep a plastic carrier bag in your rucksack and put this over your muddy boot, before sliding into the trouser leg. This stops your boots getting caught (and you from losing your balance), as well as making sure the inside of your waterproofs don’t get dirty.

PERFORM FOOT SURGERY 1994

If you have a high instep, you can relieve the pressure on a particular point by using a surgeon’s knot. Pull the lower lacing to a comfortable tension, then isolate it with the knot – tied simply by winding one lace around the other three or four times. Bypass the sensitive area, tie another surgeon’s knot, then continue lacing as before.

GET A GRIP 2002

When traversing across or zig-zagging up a hillside, you may find walking poles are awkward to use. This is because the handgrip of the pole on the uphill side is too high to hold comfortably. One (rather tedious) solution is to stop and adjust the length of your walking pole before crossing the hillside. Another (incredibly simple) solution is to customise your poles by fixing extra grips lower down using a bit of foam and duct tape. Simply hold the “uphill pole” using this handgrip and you’ll find the going much easier.

PACK SMARTER 2006

Pack heavy items closer to your spine, especially if walking uphill, while bulky but light items should be at the bottom of your rucksack. Trail a leg or sleeve of the clothing inside it to meet the top of your rucksack, so you can pull it out without unpacking your whole bag.

BE POLITE WITH YOUR POLES 2010

To avoid the wrath of fellow walkers, be aware of people behind and in front, and don’t wave your poles around unnecessarily. When you don’t need them, pack them away. Instead of dragging them over a stile and poking someone’s eye out, try pushing them through the fence and picking them up the other side. Rubber bungs will stop pole tips ‘clacking’ annoyingly on hard surfaces, and should also be used in areas prone to erosion.

WASH YOUR UNDIES 1998

Patience pays. The temptation is to wear your base-layer brand new, straight out of the packaging. That may be okay with midwear and outerwear, but not so good with underwear. The fibres still have dye residues and lubricants picked up during production, which can impair performance. So for the best results, wash it first, using soap powder (not liquid detergent), and no conditioners or water softeners!

SHOP WHEN SWOLLEN 1991

We British have got funny feet – they tend to be slightly wider than their European counterparts. Most boots are made to accommodate our national peculiarity, but continental-shaped footwear has a more pointed toe. Boots should fit snugly at the back, no heel lift, and you need about half-an-inch of space in front of your toes when you’ve laced up. Take your usual walking socks along to the shop – and go in the afternoon when your feet are at their most swollen.

SPONGE YOUR FLEECE 2002

All fleece generally deteriorates with too much washing, so try not to wash yours too regularly – within socially acceptable parameters! Simply wipe dirt off with a damp sponge rather than going the whole hog after every walk.

MAY 2012 COUNTRY WALKING 55

Destinations | Peak District

we meet at last!

The Long Man of Wilmington is England’s oldest hillwalker, but when the first issue of Country Walking hit the shelves 25 years ago, the best bits of his stamping ground were off-limits to folk on foot. Not any more. Jenny Walters goes to meet him – and (on page 72) rounds up some other tempting trails we couldn’t tread back in 1987. Photography: Tom Bailey

25TH BIRTHDA Y

T’S EASY TO think that the world is going to hell in a handbasket: bankers’ bonuses, Britain’s Got Talent, unexpected items in the bagging area. But the last 25 years have been pretty good for walkers. Handy little GPS units mean we can pinpoint our location in a Baskerville mist. Mobile phones let us text home when we want to stay out another hour in a glorious view. Neon legwarmers are no longer considered mandatory. But the single best moment came on November 30th 2000, when the Countryside and Rights of Way Act was passed, granting us access to 3.4 million acres of land in England and Wales. It gave us the right to explore some long-coveted spots: the vast wilderness of Lancashire’s Forest of Bowland, great swathes

IS S UE

of Northumberland’s Cheviot Hills and the Yorkshire Dales. But the right to roam isn’t just a northern story: there is access land down south and it can be a more approachable beast, too. It dots the map in friendly pools, rather than wide oceans: you’d be hard pushed to get lost in a square kilometre of turf downland, but you will find some gorgeous new views. Wilmington Hill in Sussex is one such place. Here, the grass sweeps in eye-catching curves to the fields of the Weald, Eastbourne glitters in the distance – and right in the middle stands one of Britain’s tallest and most mysterious men, his hands on two ‘trekking poles’ like an access land symbol from centuries past. Time to go make his acquaintance.

MAY 2012 COUNTRY WALKING 65

Welcome to the

COUNTRY WALKING GEAR REVIEWS I love the moment when I can swap my big, heavy winter jacket for a slimline, lightweight alternative – it marks the coming of summer for me as sure as the arrival of the first swallows. So this test is one I always relish: an early opportunity to stride into spring as well as a chance to sample some of the new year’s spring/summer collections. We’ve also got a round-up of gaiters for you – these easily forgotten bits of kit can really make a big difference, especially if you walk on wet ground a lot as Steph and I do. And finally, this month’s ‘Gear Doctor’ page looks at map-and-compass versus GPS – a subject that usually raises almost as many questions as answers! Tom Hutton, gear editor OUR GEAR TESTERS Tom Hutton Revered CW gear tester Tom gave these jackets a thorough testing in his beloved Brecon Beacons. Steph Duits One of the premier authorities on outdoor gear, Steph lists “being indoors” as a phobia.

74 COUNTRY WALKING MAY 2012

Lightweight waterproofs M

ost walkers know better than to believe it rains less in summer than winter. But as we’re all optimists at heart, we’re usually prepared to make a few compromises just in case. The most effective is to swap our full-on, bomb-proof winter waterproof for something a little cooler and lighter. That way we’ll benefit from its protection without boiling over – and carrying it is going to be a lot less effort. Lightweight waterproofs work in the same way as their beefier stablemates: basically keeping the rain out while allowing any perspiration to escape. But to shed those grammes, features are usually stripped back to a minimum, which means fewer pockets and less adjustability. And the lighter fabrics tend to be more delicate, too.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR... FABRIC Fabrics here should be waterproof and breathable, but also light and tough. To achieve this, most manufacturers use either a 3-layer fabric, which comprises a breathable, waterproof membrane sandwiched between a face fabric and an inner fabric or backer; or what is known as a 2.5-layer fabric, which replaces the inner fabric with a tough coating that’s usually printed onto the inside of the membrane. Some cheaper jackets use a waterproof coating rather than a membrane, and Páramo jackets tend to be different again, relying on a combination of inner and outer fabrics and a waterrepellent wax (similar to how animal fur works).

MAIN ZIP Zips leak, and the only way to prevent this is to protect them with a storm flap – a strip of fabric that sits up against the zipper, directing any water downwards away from the wearer. This can be internal or external (or even both). External storm flaps usually fasten using Velcro and/or pop-studs.

FIT Your jacket should be roomy enough to go on over a couple of layers – but bear in mind that if it’s too baggy, it will create pockets of cool air that will condense perspiration before it has passed out through the shell fabric. Length is personal: some walkers prefer a shorter hem, others a longer one. Either way, a jacket shouldn’t ride up when you’re at full stretch, and the same goes for sleeves, which should cover your wrists even when you are reaching upwards or outwards.

HOOD This is important even in a lightweight jacket in summer. Check that it covers your head well and adjusts easily; and also that it moves with your head as it swivels. The best hoods will cover most of your face when fully fastened, but more fabric means more weight, and the bulkier a jacket is, the less packable it becomes. A wired, or at least stiffened, peak is infinitely better in high winds. Drawcord adjustment will make sure the hood stays in place. It’s also worth considering the way the hood is stowed when not in use. Some just hang, others are actually packed into the collar – which is neat but makes for a bulky collar. Others roll up and are then clipped in place, which makes a good compromise.

POCKETS The main thing to look for here is that hip pockets – sometimes known as handwarmer pockets – can be reached even when you’re wearing the hip belt of a pack. Mesh-lined pockets can double as air vents, but these do need to be kept fastened in rain, or else water will get in. At least one pocket big enough for a map or guidebook is particularly useful; and some walkers like a small, zipped security pocket inside the jacket too.

MAY 2012 COUNTRY WALKING 75

Photo: Tom Bailey

COLLAR, CUFFS AND HEM Your collar should feel snug beneath the chin – or even over it if it’s one of the higher ones. This prevents rain getting in and warm air escaping. Cuffs should be easily adjustable and/or elasticated, so they can be pulled up if needed or left open for maximum ventilation when you’re working hard. The hem should be adjustable so it can be tightened or loosened to keep warmth in or let it out.

25 ’ Britain s best

EASY-TO-FOLLOW WALKS WITH FULL ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPS 25TH BIRTHD

25 BEST WALKS AY ISSUE

EVER

SCOTLAND

NORTH WEST

NORTH EAST

MIDLANDS

EAST

WALES

SOUTH WEST

SOUTH EAST

IRELAND

“My best walk ever!”

Country Walking writers reveal their all-time favourite routes THIS MONTH: uFlying high on the Seven Sisters uSnowdonia’s secret shore uThe finest fellwalk in the Lakes uDartmoor’s Bronze Age bones uHiking The Thirty-Nine Steps AND MUCH MORE...

THE COUNTRY WALKING PROMISE: MORE WALKS, IN MORE PLACES, MORE OFTEN THAN ANY OTHER MAG!

Photo: Tom Bailey

Chalk and cheers: Follow our scintillating stride along the Seven Sisters, in Walk 5.

Lochboisdale

NORTH WEST

Airor

CUMBRIA FAIRFIELD HORSESHOE Ardvasar

Rum

Invergarry

Inverie

Newtonmore Laggan

Mallaig

Arisaig

Eigg

Glenfinnan

Coll

Dalwhinnie

Stonehaven

Colonsay Oronsay

Port Askaig

Islay

Rhinns Point

Port Ellen

Malin Head

Rathlin Island

Portrush Portstewart Bushmills Coleraine

NORTHERN

Strabane

astlederg

Connel

Randalstown

Larne

SOUTH AYRSHIRE

TYRONE Omagh

Moneymore

Cookstown

Dungannon

Antrim

Crumlin

IRELAND

Lochmaben

Ballantrae

Stranraer

Belfast

Carryduff Lisburn Lurgan Craigavon Dromore Portadown Ballynahinch

skillen

Armagh

Banbridge

Otterburn

Cairnryan Newton Stewart

Langholm

Lockerbie

Dumfries

New Galloway Castle Douglas

Longtown

Annan

Gretna

Dalbeattie

Brampton

Carlisle

Portpatrick

Whitehead Carrickfergus Bangor Holywood Donaghadee

Coupar Angus

DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY

Kirkcudbright

Drummore

Newtownards Comber

Burrow Head

Bedlington Ponteland

PLAN YOUR WALK Cockermouth

Workington

Gat Washingto Consett Stanley

Alston

Penrith Appleby-inWestmorland

Keswick

Whitehaven

CUMBRIA

Durham Brandon

Spennymoor Bishop Auckland Newto Aycliff DURHAM

Dar

Brough

Egremont

Gosfo

Corbridge

Hexham

Maryport

Killyleagh Portaferry

Ashingto Morpeth

Wigton

Whithorn

Whatever the weather, Mary Welsh loves this classic route.

ANAGH

Blairgowrie

Catsphairn

The luckiest horseshoe

Newtownstewart

Forfar

Killin

Girvan

Cushendall

Ballymena

Montrose

Brechin

Kirriemuir

Arbroath Carnoustie Monifieth Isle of Mull Dundee Tayport Dalmally Oban Lochearnhead Newport Crianlarich Perth Crieff -on-Tay Bridge of Earn Cupar St Andrews Auchterarder Ardlui STIRLING Auchtermuchty Luing Ladybank Inveraray Fife Ness Callander Falkland FIFE Scarba Tarbet Kinross Strachur Dunblane Elie Lochgoilhead CLACKMANNAN Glenrothes Buckhaven Bridge of Allan Stirling Alloa Kirkcaldy Lochgilphead Garelochhead Cowdenbeath Ardlussa Dunfermline North Berwick Grangemouth Inverkeithing Helensburgh Denny A R G Y L L & B U T E EAST Dunbar South Queensferry Alexandria Kilsyth Falkirk FALKIRK Dunoon Gourock LOTHIAN Jura Edinburgh Greenock Dumbarton Kirkintilloch Cumbernauld Linlithgow Haddington Tighnabruaich INVERCLYDE NORTH Bathgate Musselburgh St Abb's Head Clydebank LANARKSHIRE Tarbert Dalkeith Livingston RENFREWSHIRE Airdrie WEST Rothesay Bonnyrigg Paisley Eyemouth Kennacraig Shotts Glasgow LOTHIAN Penicuik Johnstone Largs Motherwell MIDLOTHIAN Millport Hamilton Berwick-upon-Tw East Kilbride EAST Carluke Gigha RENFREWSHIRE Larkhall NORTH AYRSHIRE Lauder Strathaven Kilwinning Holy Island Primmill Killean Lanark Peebles Ardrossan Coldstream Lesmahagow Biggar Galashiels Irvine Kilmarnock Kelso Brodick Bamb SOUTH Arran LANARKSHIRE Troon Holy Selkirk Mauchline Isle Prestwick Abington Ayr BORDERS Jedburgh Campbeltown Cumnock Hawick EAST New Cumnock Alnwick AYRSHIRE Maybole Mull of Kintyre Dalmellington Moffat NORTHUMBERLAND Craignure

ANTRIM

Maghera

Magherafelt

Aberfeldy

Portnacroish

Ballycastle

Ballymoney

Londonderry LONDONDERRY Dungiven

enny

Glencoe

Photo: Katherine Eastham/Alamy

Inishowen Head

Limavady

ANGUS

Pitlochry PERTH AND KINROSS Dunkeld

Iona Fionnphort

Carndonagh Moville Buncrana

Oinch Ballachulish

Lochaline Ulva

Banchory

Ballater

Braemar

Fort William

Tobermory

Looking down over Rydal Tiree Water from Nab Scar.

Aberdeen

ABERDEENSHIRE Kingussie

Spean Bridge

Muck

Inverurie

Alford

Aviemore

S COTL A ND uDistance: 17km/11 miles uTime: 6-7 hours uGrade: Challenging

14 Canna

Barra Heaval Castlebay Vatersay Sandray Rosinish Mingulay Berneray

Spey

Invermoriston

Shiel Bridge

Ambleside

Richmond Windermere Continue north-west, steeply “I came to liveTandragee in tackles theDownpatrick classic approach Andreas Coniston DOWN ARMAGH Catterick Monaghan Ramsey to cross Sedbergh Keadyfrom London, down and exposed, Kendal, usingCastlewellan the eastern arm of the Ballaugh Kendal Leyburn Rathfriland Newtownbutler Hawes ISLE OF MAN Climb steadily as a new bride. In Newry horseshoe and descending by level Link Hause. Clones MONAGHAN Newcastle Laxey Peel Ballybay Millom Ulverston September my the western arm, rounding the onto Fairfield’s long plateau to Kirkby Lonsdale Castleblayney N O R T H YO R K S H Douglas Cootehill Grange-overCrossmaglen husband decided we should Warrenpoint Rydal Valley through which summit shelter, 873m. Pause Ingleton Kilkeel Sands Carnforth Barrow-in-Furness Port Erin Route Cavan walk the Fairfield Horseshoe. flows Rydal Beck.” here, Castletown enjoying splendid views. nnon Dundalk Walney Morecambe Carrickmacross Settle Lancaster Start/parking Pelter Bridge car So I put on my Cuban heels, Isle Heysham Bailieborough LOUTH park, grid ref NY365059 Harrog pushed Start 10.5km/6½ miles C A V A N them into my Skipton LANCASHIRE Is it for me? Pleasant Ilkley Ardee Cross Pelter Bridge and In mist the summit is Fleetwood G F O R D Granard waterproof booties, grabbed fellwalking, some steep and Garstang Keighley Bingley my elegant white riding mac, A591. Turn L, and climb next R. confusing, with lots of cairns. Y ngford rocky sections; some paths Colne Clitheroe Shipley Kells In no time at all Nelson Blackpool and off we set. Stroll footpath, R, signposted Leave due south, to locate path Le indistinct and some exposed. Drogheda Bradford Burnley Kirkham WEST YORK Preston Todmorden In mist you need to use a the rain teemed ‘Public Footpath’ and ‘Ramblers along western arm of horseshoe, Lytham St will Anne's Navan down, but on Halifax compass to come offLeyland Fairfield Rawtenstall WESTMEATH Brighouse we went and completed the Tearoom’. Carry on along pleasing a rounded ridge to prominent Balbriggan Wakefi Stiles 2Southport Huddersfield Trim Chorley Mullingar round. The scenery was blotted Skerries track through Rydal Park for 1km. dome of Great Rigg, 767m. Rochdale MEATH H Standish Rush Bury Bolton Ormskirk out by mist. I got tired and wet. Go through metal gate, L, bear R Descend summit and keep ahead Formby GREATER MANCHESTER Barn Planning Swords Wigan Oldham Penistone Did it put me off? Not at all – I Malahide then climb L uphill, to join track. along airy ridge. Avoid path, R, Nearest town Crosby Ambleside Salford MANCHESTER MERSEYSIDE LIN Maynooth Clara Head Stock Lucan loved every minute of it.DItU Bwas Beyond, half-L, go up wide way, Carmel towards Stone Arthur. Carry on Bootle The wonderful St Helens Edenderry Refreshments Stockport Sale Glossop Celbridge Wallasey Liverpool Warrington Great Y Tullamore quite wonderful toClondalkin be up in Dublin the zig-zagging steadily onto the for 2km toMoelfre Heron Pike at 612m tearoom at Rydal Hall (see Birkenhead Cheadle Orme Altrincham Prestatyn Gogarth Colwyn right), passed almostWidnes at the Anglesey fells forKILDARE the first time Tallaght rather Dun Laoghaire open fell. (no herons or pike here, but there Holyhead Llandudno Whaley Wilmslow Bay rmac Runcorn Naas Dro Knutsford Rhyl and again at end of Bridge Beaumaris Newbridge start walk are stunning views). Llangefni Flint Portarlington than teaching a reluctant 5E in Bray Holy Island Conwy Abergele Frodsham Buxton Kildare Northwich Public toilets Tearoom, Bangor untmellick Monasterevin an Islington secondary school. 3.5km/2¼ miles Bakewell Chester Greystones Middlewich CONWY Bethesda Rydal HallFLINTSHIRE DE Winsford Congleton C “Years later we returned to Slant half-L through 15.2km/9½ miles Llanrwst Denbigh Caernarfon Portlaoise Public transport Mold Stagecoach CHESHIRE Matlo Biddulph trath Ruthin Llanberis Betwslive again in the lovely Lakes. outcrops, Low and High Crags, Go on ahead. Descend steep Crewe Athy 554/555/556/557. Call WICKLOW LAOIS Leek Wirkswort DENBIGHSHIRE y-coed Wrexham Since then I’ve been round the Wicklow then on to rocky peak of Low pitched north-east side of Nab Traveline: 0870 608 2608 Nantwich KidsgroveStoke-on-Trent Abbeyleix B NewcastleBlaenau Ffestiniog Maps Ordnance Ruabon Survey Rathdrum Ashbourne under-Lyme horseshoe so often, in the Pike. After descent, climb Scar, with glorious views of WREXHAM Llangollen Porthmadog Explorers OL5 & OL7; Whitchurch Carlow right gear, in snow, rain, wind steeply to High Pike summit. Rydal Water.Criccieth Then wend Uttoxeter Castlecomer Bala Pwllheli Stone Tullow D Landranger Ellesmere 90 Market Drayton and hot sun. It’s alwaysArklow the Continue, passing (almost south-east to narrow GWYNEDD road. Turn Oswestry Wem Burton STAFFORDSHIRE Abersoch CARLOW Tre same. I love it because I know unnoticed) Dove Crag’s summit BardseyR, passing Rydal Mount, former Stafford uBuy maps at: www.ordnance Bagenalstown SHROPSHIRE Ash Dolgellau Kilkenny it so well and it is a Gorey magical cairn, at 792m. Go on, north- Island home of William Wordsworth, R. survey.co.uk/mapshop Barmouth Rugeley Newport Mallwyd KILKENNY W Eare X F Oseveral RD Shrewsbury Borris There challenge. west, through barren area of Go on down past Rydal Hall. At Cannock Lichfield Callan Welshpool Telford Graiguenamanagh Tamworth routes of approach to lofty jagged rocks where cairns lead A-road walk L, cross to Pelter Thomastown Tywyn Walsall Machynlleth Enniscorthy Wolverhampton Fairfield, all traversing fine up steep rugged side of Hart Bridge and turn R beyond back Montgomery Aberdyfi Right: Looking to Great Rigg Blackwater Bridgnorth Newtown Nun West Bromwich and Windermere fromChurch Fairfield. subsidiary ridges. This walk Crag, to summit at 822m. to car park. New Ross Stretton Dudley Birmingh Carrick-on-Suir POWYS Stourbridge Lisnaskea

✁

Wexford

Aberystwyth

WA L E S

Waterford

ORD

Rosslare Tramore

Llanidloes Llangurig

CEREDIGION Aberaeron

Clun

Ludlow

Knighton Rhayader

Presteigne

Kidderminster Stourporton-Severn

WEST MIDLANDS Solihull

Bromsgrove Redditch

Leam Warwic

NORTH WEST

25TH BIR T HD

AY ISSUE

BEST WALKS EVER Don’t miss... Bohemian: Grasmere’s jolly Jumble Room

Start

The Fairfield food trail

✁

TRAILZILLA ID: TZID12031

uDownload Ordnance Survey maps to your PC, GPS, iPhone or iPad with Digital Map Shop from Memory-Map

Cake and hand-made chocolates from Maryport. An evening in Ambleside could easily be spent wandering between gourmet restaurants without ever making a dining decision, but you won’t go far wrong with Matthew’s Bistro (matthewsbistro.co.uk) on Compston Road. Start with a wedge of creamy deep-fried brie served with gooseberry relish before tucking into a classic beef bourguignon (£13.95). Beckoning further down the road on the eastern side of Lake Windermere is the Michelinstarred restaurant at Holbeck Ghyll Country House Hotel (holbeckghyll. com). A three-course meal here will set you back £65, but the poulet de bresse with truffle risotto and cep puree may just be worth it. If all that sounds rather posh, the colourful Jumble Room (thejumble room.co. uk) in Grasmere offers a slightly more bohemian experience. Whether it’s their fish and chips (£14.50) or Urswick steak (£26.50), customers are promised a relaxing, fuss-free evening.

Photo: Travel Pictures/Alamy

Photo: Mary Welsh

uRoute available to download and print at: www.lfto.com/routes

The Fairfield Horseshoe and its neighbouring towns of Ambleside and Grasmere will indulge the appetites of fellwalkers and foodies alike, and for those who fall into both categories, we’ve mapped out some of the best eateries along the way. The Old School Tearoom (rydalhall.org/tea-shop) at the start point in Rydal will see you on your way with a bowl of home-made soup or one of their ever-changing selection of scrumptious cakes, made with locally sourced ingredients. In Ambleside, freshly prepared vegetarian fare can be found at the tiny Rattle Gill Café (rattlegillcafe.co.uk) where Gareth and Carly’s ‘Veggie Chilli’, served with créme fraiche, organic cheese and a chunk of hand-made bread on the side, is sure to warm the cockles on a damp day. If homely food is the order of the day, head over to the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop (grasmeregingerbread. co.uk) for a taste of their famous recipe as well as various other Cumbrian treats such as Penrith toffee, Romney’s Kendal Mint