january 2013
Pubs that love muddy boots
Three walking weekends with a warm welcome and food to die for
Ben Fogle
“This is the best beach in Britain”
www.lfto.com issue 310 city escapes | ESSEX COAST | SOUTH DOWNS | CHILTERNS | WORDSworth's grASMERE | PUB WALK WEEKENDS | WALKER'S HANDBOOK | base-layer test
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South Downs l Chiltern Hills l Yorkshire Dales l East Anglia - and more!
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Expert tips on walking in winter
LAKE DISTRICT POETS' TRAIL
How walkers can save the ash tree
The walk that Wordsworth loved more than any other
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walker’s bible 24-page special
l Plan your own walks l Fit a boot perfectly l Identify birdlife and wildflowers l Clean, repair and revive your kit l Deal with cattle l Treat injuries – and more!
january 2013 £3.99
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Photo: Adrian Sherratt/Alamy
Miles of ideas for a brilliant month outdoors
Celebrate New Year's Day 2013 with a walk at beautiful Stourhead, one of over 500 routes in the Festival of Winter Walks.
e ve nt s
A sackful of
Christmas walks I
f you’re out walking in the New Forest this Christmas, expect a festive surprise – you may bump into a gaggle of Santas, reindeer and twolegged Christmas puddings. Walkers from Southampton are planning a fancy-dress hike to Bucklers Hard along the beautiful River Beaulieu, and everyone’s invited. It’s a highlight of the fortnight-long Festival of Winter Walks, organised by the Ramblers and busier than ever this year, with more than 500 outings already planned, making it possibly Britain’s biggest ever walking extravaganza. Whether you’re out to escape the Christmas shopping or work off the Christmas pud, there’s something for everybody. The Bucklers Hard walk happens on Christmas Eve, and other highlights include mulled wine and mince pies on Bredon Hill in Worcestershire (December 30th); a Christmas Day yomp to Tregarrick Tor on Bodmin Moor; and a choice of two New Year’s Day routes at gorgeous Stourhead, in Wiltshire. Snow is sort of guaranteed on the 12-mile blast through Windsor Great Park (since you’ll summit Snow Hill en route), while those who’ve over-indulged might enjoy the ‘non-stop’ Boxing Day seven-miler on the Isle of Wight. Rather more relaxed is a six-mile stroll along the Fife Coast Path (December 23rd), where walkers will aim to give Santa a run for his money – there’s a prize for “the most festive hat and rucksack.” All walks are free, and the festival runs from December 22nd-January 6th. ◗ Search for events near you at ramblers.org.uk/winterwalks january 2013 Country Walking 7
Escape the
city
Four tickets, four trains, four incredible locations. The CW team set out from the grand termini of London to find four amazing walks that would gobsmack the average city slicker. We think we found them‌ Photos: Tom Bailey; PC Jones/Alamy; James Barrett/Alamy
Destinations | lake district
Walks to do before you die
Wordsworth’s favourite walk Grasmere and rydal, cumbria
William Wordsworth was one of our greatest poets, a Romantic who walked 180,000 miles and showed the world how to love the Lake District. Jenny Walters seeks inspiration in the valley he loved most... Photos: Tom Bailey
40 Country Walking january 2013
Big weekends
Cosy country inns We can think of little better than stumbling into a comfy pub after a bracing winter walk, tucking into great local food, then trundling up the stairs to bed. Here are three perfect weekends based around inns that are just waiting for your muddy boots‌
52 Country Walking january 2013
The summit of Hawnby Hill, in the North York Moors: centrepiece of our weekend at The Star Inn, Harome.
A good walk and a country pub go together like Fred and Ginger, North York Moors Bogart and Bacall, and Eric and Ernie. But in winter it's about more than just Ceredigion a refreshing pint – we're looking for roaring log fires, generous troughs of Dartmoor tasty food, a comfy bed to dream the night away, and a rollicking breakfast in the morning. And we've found three of the best inns – where the welcome is warm and the walking is gorgeous.
the weekends 54 the star inn, North york moors Thatched roof? Check. Awardwinning local food and ale? Check. Surrounded by truly magnificent countryside, be it wild moorland or superstar stately home? Check. That's what you'll get in our weekend at The Star – and the view on your left, of course.
58 the rock inn, dartmoor Winter sees Dartmoor at its wild and atmospheric best, when the frosted tors are wreathed in mist and the valleys dusted with snow. And we can think of nowhere better to warm up after a day dodging hounds and headless horsemen, than The Rock Inn at Haytor Vale.
Photos: Tom Bailey; Adrian Sherratt/Alamy; Gaertner/Alamy
62 harbourmaster hotel, ceredigion This handsome seaside inn at Aberaeron is one of the finest on the entire Wales Coast Path. Luckily, the scenery is just as irresistible so you can unwind on gentle, winter-friendly coast paths by day, before unwinding in the cosy bar by night.
january 2013 Country Walking 53
Welcome to the
Country Walking gear reviews You can spend a lot of money on insulation and shell layers, but if the garment next to your skin isn’t fit for purpose, then the rest has little chance of performing as it should. For that reason, this month we’re taking a look at a selection of long-sleeved base-layers that make the perfect foundation for a good layering system. We also take a look at gloves and find out just how many different ways you can keep your hands warm in the hills this winter. We hope you like our choices. January’s a great month to be outdoors, we both hope you enjoy it to the full.
Base-layers In the same way as an expensive car won’t handle very well on cheap tyres, so expensive insulation and shell layers won’t work terribly well over a cotton T-shirt. The best membrane in the world won’t be able to breathe if your sweat hasn’t made it as far as your outer layer; and insulation will have to work a lot harder to keep you warm if you’ve got a cold and clammy back. Staying warm is generally about staying dry, and staying dry when you’re walking means keeping your perspiration away from your skin. Water moves heat away from your body about 25 times as fast as air – that’s a good reason to get rid of it. A good base-layer will move that perspiration quickly and will also feel good against your skin while it does so. Here’s our verdict on a variety of styles and fabrics…
What to look for... Colour
Tom Hutton & Steph Duits Country Walking gear testers
The colour of your base-layer actually affects how warm or cool it is, especially when you’re wearing it as a single outer layer in summer. For maximum comfort go for something light – although white can look grubby quickly, so blues, reds and greens are good.
Fit
contents Men’s base-layers ............................page 70 Women’s base-layers ....................page 72 Six of the best gloves ...................page 75 CW recommends ................................page 76
68 Country Walking january 2013
A tight fit is best for warmth and wicking, especially when worn as a layer. However, a looser fit often looks better when the top is worn on its own, and will also feel cooler in warmer weather. Somewhere between the two will be most versatile. Sleeves should cover the whole wrist with the hem long enough to cover the small of the back, even when stretching.
Style All the tops featured here are long-sleeved, which works best beneath other garments. It’s also warmer in cooler weather. But this doesn’t restrict them to winter use as sleeves can easily be rolled up. Some have crew-necks, others have zips. Crew-necks are generally less expensive, and cooler in summer because the neck is a lower cut. They also look more casual. Zipped styles tend to be higher cut, therefore offering more warmth when done up and better ventilation when unzipped. A higher collar will protect the neck from the sun too.
Fabric The tops tested are made either from a natural merino wool, a synthetic fabric or a mix of both. All three have pros and cons. Synthetics wick well, dry quickly and are usually cheap to produce, but they fare badly on the odour front and can get more than a little smelly after a few days’ wear if you’re not able to wash them. Some fabrics are treated with various additives to try and solve this problem, but these are then more expensive. Merino wool is usually a lot more expensive than synthetic fabric but is a little warmer weight for weight, and odour retention is seldom a problem. Cheaper wools can feel itchy and all wool garments need more care than synthetic ones.
Photo: Tom Hutton
Chilly business Don’t be fooled by a clear sky – wind chill can make the air feel several degrees colder so always carry extra layers.
Tread carefully Heavy snow can hide small streams and bogs; walk at a steady pace and pay attention to any changes underfoot.
knowledge | winter skills
How to…
Love walking in winter
Blue skies above, crunchy snow underfoot, pure air in your lungs and sparkling views all around. Here's how to enjoy Britain's winter wonderland. Words: Hanna Lindon
All mapped out When snow covers paths and tracks, use the map's contour lines to keep track of where you are. A GPS is also useful.
W
hen the mercury drops and the nights draw in, it’s tempting to stash your walking boots under the bed and leave them gathering dust until spring. Winter, so the sceptics will tell you, is just too much like hard work. You can’t simply breeze out of the door with nothing but a drink and a map in your pack and stroll back in at 9pm. Even the most straightforward day-walk is like a military operation where everything from the weather conditions to the state of the ground needs to be taken into account. But that’s only half the story. Catch winter on a good day, and you’ll find that the ice queen of the seasons can put on a show that makes the rest of the year look amateur. Think about those squeezed-grapefruit sunrises. Think about the frozen lakes and the cosy fleeces and that wonderful moment halfway through a frosty walk when someone lets slip that there’s a fire at home and buttered crumpets for tea. Most of all, think of the snow. We’re not talking about the stuff that breeds scary words like ‘expedition’, ‘crampons’, and, in extreme cases, ‘avalanche’. No, the snow that Britain does best is the kind that turns a glorious country romp into something just a bit more magical. It’s true that, like all the best things in life, winter will make you work for it. She’ll trade fairytale views for frozen fingers and spine-tingling sunsets for aching thighs. But then a good challenge is all part of the epic adventure that is walking in winter. Even if you’ve always been a cold weather sceptic, we guarantee you can learn to love it. All you need is a little extra know-how… » Photo: Ashley Cooper/Alamy
january 2013 Country Walking 79
knowledge | winter skills
Five top tips for winter walks 2 Keep toasty
OUR Experts Simon Hale is a Senior Instructor at Plas y Brenin, the National Mountain Centre, and an IFMGA International Ski & Mountain Guide with over 30 years experience. pyb.co.uk Ian Sherrington is Chief Instructor at Glenmore Lodge, the National Outdoor Training Centre for Scotland, and a qualified IFMGA Guide since 1993. glenmorelodge.org.uk Mark Eddy runs his own mountain guiding company in the Lake District called Mountain Journeys. He is also the author of The Mountains of Snowdonia. mountain-journeys.co.uk
1 Get a grip
Yaktrax are much easier to fit than crampons – just slide the elastomer over the back of your shoe and fasten the Velcro support over the top.
3 Find your way When snow is covering well-worn tracks and features like lakes and streams are hidden beneath a white winter duvet, navigation becomes more challenging. “It’s far more important to be aware of the contours and shapes of the land,” explains Mark Eddy. “You need to be much more accurate in your navigating, and use features that are recognisable in snow, like walls, big rivers, forestry land and buildings. And don't rely on following other people’s footsteps as they can quickly get filled with snow." If you’re just getting to grips with navigating in winter then he advises investing in a GPS – but always keep your map and compass handy for back-up.
Photo: Alex Ekins/Alamy
80 Country Walking january 2013
Photo: Tom Bailey
For walkers who cringe at the mention of crampons but have a hard job getting to grip (pardon the pun) with icy conditions, ice grips could be the answer. Simon Hale says investing in a pair of Yaktrax (below) or Grivel Spiders can transform your winter walking experience: “Ice grips are invaluable for adding grip on hard snow and ice in flat terrain, and they have an advantage over crampons because they can be worn with a variety of shoes and boots. They’re not suitable for sloping ground, though, so you wouldn’t want to use them in hilly or mountainous areas." Perfect fit
Staying comfy in winter is all about keeping your internal thermostat perfectly tuned. Since your body temperature can change dramatically between toiling up a hill and taking a sandwich break, layering is the best way to keep it regulated. You can strip off on the uphill and layer up when you stop. “When you walk in winter, your needs vary depending on whether you’re active or not,” explains Ian Sherrington, “Your inner layers should be breathable, so they transport moisture from the body. A material like merino wool is perfect for wicking sweat from your Gloves skin. Modern synthetic Your extremities are fabrics are good too. ” more vulnerable to cold Wet clothing can cause that any other area of your body, so keep a layer of insulation in your your body to lose heat 25 spare pair of gloves in pack to whip out at a pit stop. times faster than it would your pack. While natural materials normally. “Over the top such as down are good you’ll need a shell layer,” says insulators, they don’t do well when Ian, “A windproof or a waterproof wet. Ian recommends man-made fibres depending on the day’s weather.” for UK walks: “Synthetics like Primaloft Other winter wardrobe essentials won’t entirely lose their insulating include a good pair of waterproof properties when damp, making them trousers and gaiters to prevent snow appropriate in our variable climate.” getting in your boots. And tuck an extra
4 Be weather aware
5 Walk in snow (no crampons required)
Photos: Tom Bailey
If you’re venturing into remote or hilly areas then the Mountain Weather Information Service (mwis.org.uk) should be your first port of call. Covering most of Scotland as well as the Lake District, Peak District and Yorkshire Dales, the MWIS is packed with up-to-the-minute information for walkers. “When you check the weather forecast, don’t just consider obvious factors such as temperature,” says Mark. “Wind speed will also affect your comfort dramatically. If the air temperature is at zero, then even a moderate wind speed of 20 miles per hour will make it feel like -15. Wind shouldn’t be a problem in the lowlands, but if you’re venturing into the hills then check the MWIS wind speed predictions for different altitudes. The forecast will have an impact on how you plan your day and the kit you take with you.” Even if the forecast is optimistic, keep an eye on the sky during your walk. “Altostratus clouds, which are grey and sheet-like in appearance, are signs of a front coming in,” says Mark. “And another one to look for is a lenticular formation – elliptical clouds, which indicate high wind speeds and bad weather.” Finally, if the temperature rises quickly and you’re sweating underneath that Primaloft jacket, then it’s a sign to watch your step. “If temperatures rise very fast and you’ve got streams to cross then watch your step,” says Mark. “Water levels can rise extremely quickly.”
Walking uphill… Steep hills and rugged terrain are best left to mountaineers in winter, but there are easy techniques you can use on sweeter slopes. “If you are walking up a gentle hill then you might need to punch holes in the slope by kicking steps,” explains Ian. “The crucial thing is to assess your environment. If you fall and slide, could you be in danger? If so, then backtrack immediately. However, if it's safe then try pigeon steps. Firmly kick your feet into the snow toe-first, angling slightly down into the slope so they won’t slide out. If one kick doesn’t make a stable platform then keep kicking until you’ve made enough of an indent.”
… and back down “Often the safest way to descend a slope is to do pigeon steps in reverse,” says Ian. “That way you can keep your hand on the slope for stability – it’s almost like climbing down a ladder. The slightly more confident version is the plunge step, where you face outwards and put all your weight on one heel while driving the other into the snow as hard as you can. Take care, though – if you hit something or the snow is too closely packed for your heel to go in properly then you don’t get a second chance. The most likely scenario is that you’ll fall and slide. It's important to make sure you're not putting yourself a potentially dangerous situation.”
gear up Staying upright can be a challenge even on the level. Ian's tip is to take smaller steps and use walking poles if you’re struggling. The right boot also helps: “For gentle winter walks the ideal would be a three-season boot with a strong, reasonably stiff sole such as Vibram. It will make an indent when you kick into snow and give purchase in slippery conditions."
Altostratus These grey sheets of cloud are a telltale sign of a weather front and more snow approaching.
Photo: Tom Bailey
january 2013 Country Walking 81
Destinations | new zealand
tongariro national park
Welcome to
Middle Earth As The Hobbit hits the big screen this month you too can walk in Middle Earth… in New Zealand’s Tongariro National Park. Words: Damian Hall
82 Country Walking january 2013
N
ow, I like The Lord of the Rings films as much as the next short person with hairy feet. But I’m not the sort to fly all the way to New Zealand, buy a film location guide and go on some sort of mega-geek Ring-mentalist pilgrimage, hunting high and low for the exact landscape backdrop used in the Oscar-hogging trilogy. Actually, I am exactly that sort of person. And I’m doing just that – because there’s a new one coming out. However, it isn’t just my love of halflings, ringwraiths and walking, talking trees that’s brought me to the Land of the Long White Cloud. I’m even more obsessed with hiking – or tramping as they call it down here – and luckily the two fit together like a hairy foot and a walking boot. New Zealand has one of the greatest collection of multiday walking trails in the world. The treks are always wellsignposted, have inviting little huts en route and invariably take you through life-changingly spectacular scenery. Little wonder that when director Peter Jackson set out to bring JRR Tolkien’s stories to the screen, he chose to fit the sensational landscapes of his native country to the mythical places in the text (Tolkien, of course, had little idea how closely the country resembled his fantasy realm). And now he’s back, bringing the book that started it all – The Hobbit – to cinematic life as a three-part prequel. Tongariro is the world’s fourth oldest national park and is World Heritage-listed for cultural and geological reasons;
Clockwise from top left: The Emerald Lakes lie in a landscape of twisted yellow rock that feels like a cross between Mars, the Moon and Mordor; the perfect cone of Ngauruhoe, aka Mount Doom; mineral-rich water from the Red Crater thermal area turns the lakes bright green; Damian conquers Mount Doom; sulphurous fumes hiss from the rocks.
Photos: DPK-Photo/Alamy; Damian Hall; Rolf Hicker Photography/Alamy; Tourism New Zealand
for both its Maori heritage and its remarkable volcanic features. The landscape is so otherworldly that Jackson used parts of it for Emyn Muil, Gollum’s fishing pool and, more recognisably, Mordor, including Mount Doom – in real life the 2,287m Mount Ngauruhoe. For The Hobbit, Tongariro has been used again – for the Long Valley and Lonely Mountains. But that’s enough geekery for now. The park is also home to the county’s best day-walk, the Tongariro Crossing. Who says it’s the best? Absolutely everyone you’ll meet in New Zealand. The only snag is it can get a bit busy, so to experience the landscape at our own pace and to dodge those crowds, my sister, a friend and I have decided to tramp the 51.5km (32-mile) four-day Tongariro Northern Circuit, which includes most of the Crossing and is also one of the country’s nine official ‘Great Walks’. Is it the one national park to rule them all? I can’t wait to find out. The scenery is green by the Whakapapa Visitor Centre, but it doesn’t stay that way long. After a pretty waterfall, the ground gets rockier. Not normal rock, volcanic rock: all twisted, gnarly and miserable-looking; sometimes black, sometimes rusty-red. And we can see two peaks up ahead, Ngauruhoe, which is perfectly conical and slightly ominous, and the flatter Mount Tongariro. Both are live volcanoes. Day two is all Hollywood. It covers most of the Tongariro Crossing, but it starts for us in dense fog and strong winds. At the top of a long steep slope it gets even windier. Some »