Tour of Snowdon by Trail magazine

Tour of Snowdon

NORTH WALES

SNOWDONIA’S O

Want to see the best of Snowdonia’s dramatic landscape in ur welcome solitude was shattered. The doors flew open, and hundreds of tourists spewed off the train and into the quiet café, or headed straight for the steps that would take them up the final 66 feet to Snowdon’s summit. Just a few days earlier, this would have reinforced my belief that Snowdon was not a serious mountain, that no joy could be had on its human-infested slopes. But now I simply smiled. I’d started to discover a different side to this Welsh giant. With its dramatic horseshoe, razor-sharp ridges and beautiful peaks promising endless excitement and adventure, I was hungry to find out more – and I fully intended to do so on our

journey through the varied and glorious landscapes surrounding the majestic Snowdon massif. “This is your challenge for the next six days,” Trail’s mountaineering editor Jeremy Ashcroft had said as he laid out a map on the table in Pete’s Eats earlier in the week. Beside me in this Llanberis café were fellow Trail readers Heather (who will pick up the story a bit later on) and Ian (who was packing a camera). Heather and I were relatively new to the hills of north Wales, the map before us unfamiliar. Pushing aside the empty pint coffee mugs, Jeremy drew a series of intricate pencil lines across the footpaths and contours, an enthralling picture emerging on the paper before us. “It’s a brand new circular route taking in the highlights of this area and offering a 360 degree tour of the Snowdon massif,” he explained. “In the

Snowdon and Y Lliwedd seen from the traverse across Moel Meirch and Carnedd y Cribau.

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Where? Snowdonia, north Wales , What? Trail s new 6-day route!

GREATEST HITS

a single trip? Trail’s new ‘haute route’ will show you the way! chattering excitedly as we bypassed the crowds heading towards the Mountain Railway. It wasn’t long before we escaped into a sweeping landscape below the foothills of Snowdon. With the sound of the train in the distance, now a speck crawling up the back of the mountain, our route unearthed constant reminders of the history of this area. We came upon the remains of an abandoned village, the deserted buildings overgrown with weeds, gnarly trees pushing out from the slate walls into an eerie skyline. We saw remnants of an industrial past – the discarded slate quarry of Dinorwig dominating the early morning skyline and, later in the day, gaping holes appearing in rock leading to hidden mine shafts and intricate tunnel systems below. And our day ended as it had begun – with a reminder of the importance of tourism to this area. “Many villages created trails to attract visitors,” Jeremy explained as we crossed the ❯

WORDS TIM MAJOR HEATHER SHAND ROUTE MAPS & DESCRIPTIONS JEREMY ASHCROFT PHOTOGRAPHS IAN THORNTON TOM BAILEY

TOM BAILEY

Alps, they call these multi-day, high level expeditions ’haute routes’. This is the same – but in Wales!” In true Trail style, we’d be walking all 73 footaching kilometres. That’s 45 miles if you haven’t gone metric. We’d be out on the hills for six days, each of the five nights sleeping in a different hostel or campsite, perfectly placed to start our walk again the next morning. We’d tackle the Glyders, Snowdon and the Nantlle Ridge. We’d take a walk on the wild side below Moel Meirch, sleep nestled in the valley in the shadow of Tryfan and the Carneddau, and eat breakfast in the Devil’s Kitchen. Twelve peaks, five valleys, 15 meals, two boxes of Compeed and, if we were lucky, at least one bar of mobile signal between us! The magnitude of this challenge dawned on us: this was Snowdonia’s greatest hits – and we couldn’t wait to get started. We set off along the main street in Llanberis,

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NORTH WALES Snowdon Ranger path. “It was quite competitive.” We bedded down for the night in the comfort of the Snowdon Ranger Youth Hostel. I went to sleep appreciating that we, like so many others, were just visitors passing through, paying our dues to this great landscape. We left the hostel the next morning with a real sense of freedom, the imposing crest of the Nantlle Ridge above us. Taking a small farm track, we started climbing properly for the first time, quickly gaining height and stunning views across the valley below. As the blanket of cloud lifted from the summit of Snowdon, we took in this awesome mountain range, our route allowing us to get to know it before we dared take it on. After a brief lunch stop we scrambled up the

Nantlle Ridge, picking our way over the rocky terrain. With enough time left in the day, we headed towards Mynydd Tal-y-Mignedd. “It’s like a drawbridge leading to a castle,” Heather noted as we crossed the col towards the summit, the rocky terrain giving way to a grassy elevation. “Which stone do you have to pull out to topple this thing?” Jeremy joked as we approached the summit’s stone obelisk, which resembled a giant game of Jenga. We left the folly intact though and ascended steeply back onto the ridge. On our way down, we came across more abandoned slate mines, took in more stunning views and clambered through overgrown footpaths (most definitely not tourist trails!). As we set up camp for the night at the campsite in Beddgelert, the weather turned and we sought shelter in a nearby pub – giving us a chance to reflect on another magnificent day, with the challenge of climbing Snowdon still to come. “Coffee and bacon!” Ian exclaimed as we

left the campsite early on day three. “That’s my motivation.” The overnight torrential rain had battered our tents, and the prospect of the warm summit café, once scoffed at, was now incredibly inviting. “I’m definitely having a hot chocolate,” Heather added. The south ridge of Snowdon is a beautiful way to scale the mountain. Avoiding the more popular Rhyd-Ddu Path, we followed a well-constructed track before scrambling up a short, narrow ridge. In a classic ‘here’s what you could have won’ moment, Jeremy described the amazing views to be had in better weather as the ridge narrows to give some real exposure. After enjoying the café, we posed for the obligatory summit shot and escaped the crowds, our teeth gritted against the wind and rain as we descended the Watkin Path. “You can get into bother on here if you’re not careful,” Jeremy warned. “You need to stay higher for longer than you might think,” he added, sensing

‘Anticipating lots of exposure, sudden drops and a great deal of scrambling, I hadn’t expected just how dramatic and other-worldly the landscape of the Glyders would be.’ 30 TRAIL NOVEMBER 2011

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missed if you don’t venture further afield. So next time your solitude is shattered by a swarm of flip-flop-clad camera-waving tourists, just smile. You know something they don’t know.

Heather takes over the story…

Tim’s right about smiling at the blissfully unaware tourists when you walk this fantastic route. With all the smugness you can only get knowing you’re halfway through a totally new multi-day walking route, I pick up on the thread on day four of our adventure, dipping my aching feet into the icy-cold waters of the tarn below the summit of Carnedd y Cribau. From this idyllic spot I could see the whole six-day route in one dramatic panorama. I took a few moments to soak in the views and reflect on where we had travelled since the start of our adventure. The Nantlle Ridge, rugged and wild, lay far to the left. The mighty Snowdon stood directly ahead, finally revealing the ridges, crags and corries of its

dramatic horseshoe. The knee-crunchingly steep Watkin Path of yesterday’s descent was clearly visible. And below Snowdon the Pen-y-Pass Youth Hostel waited patiently for our arrival later in the day. With anticipation, I drank in the views of the Glyders and the mighty Tryfan off to our right, delights yet to be savoured. This unique new route, devised by Trail’s Jeremy, really does show Snowdonia at its very best. The beauty, ruggedness and diversity of the Welsh mountains are unveiled day by day, enticing the walker onward with the anticipation of new excitement over every col and summit. Today’s route may have lacked the height advantage of the previous days, with the summit of Moel Meirch at just 607m, but it more than compensated for that with its views and solitude. Jeremy had promised that we would be going ‘off piste’, away from the tourists and crowds, and we were not to be disappointed. Seeing only two other people the entire day, the rocky landscape, ❯

Glyder Fawr and the sweep of Y Gribin as seen from Glyder Fach.

TOM BAILEY

my alarm at the sharp drops below. Finally, the sun appeared and the rain stopped. We met Trail’s photographer Tom Bailey (who seemed happy to take credit for the weather) and said our goodbyes to Jeremy before heading for a night’s rest at Bryn Gwynant Youth Hostel, tucked away in the stunning Nant Gwynant valley. I reflected on my growing respect for Snowdonia and, in particular, the muchmaligned Snowdon massif. It’s such a Kellogg’s Variety Pack of a mountain that it inevitably offers something for everyone. But we shouldn’t deride it for this. Of the 400,000+ people that ascend Snowdon each year, about half go up by train and a third by the Miners’ or Pyg Tracks. That means there’s a whole host of other routes to enjoy: whether walking, scrambling, biking or climbing, there’s endless excitement and adventure to be had. And, as we were finding out, there’s so much more to Snowdonia than just this one peak. So much is

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TOM BAILEY

NORTH WALES

Crib Goch and Snowdon, from the south flank of Glyder Fawr, day 5.

of the discomfort the team had to endure on heather, bracken and blaeberries transported that memorable ascent. I glanced guiltily at me home to the Cairngorms. Yesterday’s crowds my comfortable walking boots, grateful for the on Snowdon’s summit felt a million miles away, advances in modern technology. The mountains and as we explored this new section of the route of Snowdonia had provided I marvelled at the diversity of the Snowdonian landscape. KIP LIST these brave mountaineers with the perfect tough winter “Bog alert!” came the cry ahead, To complete the terrain in which to hone their accompanied by a satisfying six-day route, Trail mountaineering skills and to bond squelch as Ian extracted a brown, slept here: together in a way that ensured the soggy-looking foot from the mire. mission was to be a success. Grainy This route is pretty wet underfoot, Snowdon Ranger black and white photographs, but it’s a small price to pay. Youth Hostel 0845 371 9659 ancient coiled climbing ropes, As we reluctantly left the solitude www.yha.org.uk ice axes and the signatures of and wilderness behind, Tim the team members all told of the spotted a building on the road far Beddgelert Caravan excitement and anticipation which below, exclaiming “I hope that’s a and Camping Site must have been felt as they headed pub!” and we hastily descended the 0845 130 8224 off to tackle Everest. last part of the day’s route, bursting www.forestholidays. co.uk Day five dawned bright and into the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel with sunny, and as I laced up my walking renewed energy for some wellBryn Gwynant boots I watched with amusement earned refreshments. Youth Hostel the cars pulling into the Pen-y“This place is steeped in history,” 0845 371 9108 Pass car park. I felt a real sense of explained Tom, as we gazed www.yha.org.uk freedom at not having the hassle of in wonder at the memorabilia Pen-y-Pass driving. We pulled on our rucksacks, adorning the walls and ceilings Youth Hostel rounded the corner of the Youth of the hotel. “Sir John Hunt’s 0845 371 9534 Hostel and set off up the steep track team of intrepid mountaineers, www.yha.org.uk towards Pont y Gromlech. We saw including Edmund Hillary and an incongruous vivid pink splodge Tenzing Norgay, trained in these Idwal Cottage on the boulder ahead, and Tom mountains before the first ever Youth Hostel explained that some European successful ascent of Everest in 0845 371 9744 www.yha.org.uk walkers in the 1980s had marked 1953.” Hobnail boots hung from the route with pink paint; so we the ceiling, a tangible reminder

played a game of ‘join the dots’, following the marks as we ascended. The direct route up gave us rapid height gain, at the expense of aching calf muscles. “Feel the burn!” called out Tom, racing ahead like a mountain goat. “Today there will be lots of exciting bits of spiky rock to play with” had been his outline of the day over breakfast. Anticipating lots of exposure, sudden drops and a great deal of scrambling, I hadn’t expected just how dramatic and otherworldly the landscape of the Glyders would be. Reaching the summit of Glyder Fawr left me breathless, not just from the steep ascent, but from the spectacular vista ahead. Jagged rock looked like it had been ejected at force from deep within the earth, sharp daggers jutting skywards. “It looks like the rock is growing from the mountain rather than eroding,” Tim said. Once again this route was showing us the incredible diversity of Snowdonia, the strange moonscape unfolding before us a far cry from the Cairngorm-like heathery moorland of yesterday. We explored the spiky, bouldery summit plateau, delighting in the dry conditions underfoot. Tim and Ian satisfied their scrambling desires as I took the easier route across large, solid boulders, stopping for some photo fun at the Cantilever and on past Glyder Fach, where we got our first glimpse of Tryfan. Its steep, angular, rocky formation made us feel like we had stepped into the Alps. A cry of ‘on belay’ echoed across the divide and we looked across to see tiny white specks high on the mountain. Lowry-style

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RO U T E

The lonely ruins at the mouth of Maesgwm.

DAY 1

Llanberis to Snowdon Ranger Youth Hostel 1

STRENUOUSNESS ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ NAVIGATION ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ TECHNICALITY ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

START

Llanberis YH YHA

Brithdir Tyn-yrTy’n-yraelgerth

es g

Llyn Dwythwch

Start Llanberis SH582598 Finish Snowdon Ranger Youth Hostel (SH565550) Distance 8km (5 miles) Total ascent 360m Terrain village roads, steep access road, old packhorse tracks and open cols Maps British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Snowdonia; Harvey Superwalker

(1:25,000) Snowdon; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115 SH582598 From Llanberis take the minor road that climbs up to and past the Youth Hostel. Continue on the road to the road head and join the access track, which is followed southwards into the impressive V-shaped valley of Maesgwm. SH572559 From Bwlch Maesgwm descend south down the steep path to join the Snowdon Ranger Path (bridleway). Turn right and follow the Snowdon Ranger Path down to the Youth Hostel.

Foel Goch

Sheep ahead! 1 Kilometre 1 Mile

Bwlch Maesgwm

Snowdon Ranger YH YHA

Lly FINISH nC we lly n

quick skip over Snowdon’s extended western ridge provides the perfect preamble, giving you a chance to get your head and body into mountain mode. The ascent on the Llanberis side has a few steep moments but generally it is well-graded, easily navigable and with ever-improving views. The descent to the Snowdon Ranger is steeper but is furnished with kneesaving zigzags. If you are feeling full of beans, a quick up-and-down to Foel Goch from Bwlch Maesgwm will bag you a bonus summit.

Snowdon Rang

th Pa

hlsh eles WW

NORTH

ayay ilw arialw dndR halna

HiH gihg l

A4085

stick people were gathering around Adam and Eve at the summit, and every so often a brave soul would stand proud atop one or the other. There are many different ways to approach these hills, but this route has the benefit of opening up new and exciting landscapes at every turn, gradually unwrapping the mountains in all their dramatic glory, allowing you to absorb and fully appreciate each view in detail, before amazing you with the next one. We bypassed the foot of Tryfan, and headed towards Idwal Cottage Youth Hostel, where we said farewell to Tom and were met by Trail’s features editor Phoebe, who would accompany us for the remainder of our trip. “It’s the final day, and the circuit will be complete. How are you feeling?” asked Phoebe as we pushed through the dragon gate on our way to the Idwal Slabs the next morning. We were all really proud and excited to finish our epic walk, and to know that we were the first to pioneer it, but at the same time I could sense how reluctant we were to head back to the hustle and bustle of Llanberis after being immersed in these dramatic and diverse mountains for five days. But we still had today’s route to enjoy, which would take us to places frequented by walkers and climbers for many years. “If any of you still have the energy, this is a fantastic place for a climb,” said Phoebe with a mischievous smile, motioning at the infamous Idwal Slabs. The history was evident all around us. Thousands of crampon scratches clearly marked the way toward the Devil’s Kitchen, with every handhold polished by years of supporting weary travellers on their way. It was a fitting end to our journey, being led safely home by the spirits of climbers past. As we popped out over the top of the Devil’s Kitchen, an icy wind caught us, jolting us straight back into the 21st century as we hurried to pull on windproof jackets. At this point there is the option to go on up to Y Garn and bag another summit, but today we had a date at Pete’s Eats for a celebratory lunch so we opted to head straight down. Directly ahead a band of cloud masked Snowdon’s summit, lifting unexpectedly to give us a final farewell glimpse of it in all its glory. The route we had taken over the past six days had shown us the very best of Snowdonia, and had allowed us to take a three-dimensional tour around the mighty mountain itself, while allowing time and space to enjoy the diverse and dramatic scenery of the surrounding area. Having never walked in Wales before, this fantastic route allowed me to become fully immersed and forever connected to Snowdonia, and to the mighty Snowdon. I’ve paid it my respects, and it has in turn forged a place in my heart. I will definitely be back. T

The final few steps onto Bwlch Maesgwm. Rhyd-Ddu Rhyd Ddu

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START

NORTH WALES

5 08 A4

Snowdon Ranger 1 YHA Lly n Cw ell yn

DAY 2

NORTH

Snowdon Ranger to Beddgelert

Rhyd Ddu Y Garn

Llyn y Gader Mynydd Drws-y-coed

Trum y Ddysgl

Railway nd hla

Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd

Y Garn's steep climb is a good warm-up for the Nantlle Ridge.

Hig

L L E N T N A Bwlch Dros-bern

sh Wel

Drwsycoed Uchaf

STRENUOUSNESS ■■■■■ NAVIGATION ■■■■■ TECHNICALITY ■■■■■

high mountain day taking in a superb chunk of the Nantlle Ridge then making a sidestep to explore the lonely upper reaches of Cwm Trwsgle and the intimacy of Beddgelert Forest. There are a number of scrambly sections on the crest of the Nantlle Ridge but all these can be avoided if you don’t like exposure. A short out-and-back leg takes you to Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd, which is worth doing both for the obelisk that marks its summit and the views out to the coast. Start Snowdon Ranger Youth Hostel (SH565550) Finish Beddgelert, SH577490 Distance 13.5km (8½ miles) Total ascent 675m

Terrain busy road, minor road, steep mountain side, narrow rocky crest, grassy ridge, narrow valley, old quarry workings, boulderstrewn valley and narrow forest paths Maps British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Snowdonia; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdon; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115 SH565550 Unfortunately the A4085 to Rhyd-Ddu is not well-furnished with footpaths, so it is important that you pay attention to traffic on this first section of the day’s walk. If you cannot stomach the traffic you could always make use of the Welsh Highland Railway as it connects with the Youth Hostel and Rhyd-Ddu. SH569529 From Rhyd-Ddu take the B4418 up to the first bend and join the footpath on the right. Follow the footpath

G D

disused quarries

Hafod Ruffydd Isaff

5 A408

Returning from the out-and-back ascent of Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd.

Bwlch-y-Ddwyelor

Cwm Dwyfor

6 1 Kilometre 1 Mile

as it climbs steeply west up to the summit of Y Garn. SH551525 Head south down the main ridge and follow the rocky crest direct to Mynydd Drws-y-coed. All scrambling sections can be bypassed on the left. The ridge then turns west and crosses a dip to gain the summit of Trum y Ddysgl. SH544516 Follow the main crest south-west then west across the narrow neck to Mynydd Tal-ymignedd. Return across the neck but do not return all the way to Trum y Ddysgl. Instead descend the rounded south-east ridge to the deep col of Bwlch-y-Ddwy-elor. SH551503 The next section of the route looks a bit unlikely, but bear with it as the path soon becomes clear.

FINISH

Head south from the col, following the path through the quarry waste. After 400m the path splits; take the left branch that traverses round to the west through boulder-filled valley. This take you through a Lord of the Rings-type landscape to a wall beside a forest. Pass through the gap and follow the path behind the wall to join the top of a forest path. SH553496 Descend east through the trees following the vague but waymarked path. The lower section of the path is narrow

Beddgelert

and overgrown. Turn left at the forest access road and follow it round to join the old road at Cefn-maes. Turn right onto the old road and follow it to the A4085. Join the A4085 and follow it south-east either to the Beddgelert Forest Campsite or into the village. Nantlle Ridge scrambles can be bypassed on the left.

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NORTH WALES DAY 3

Bwlch y Saethau Bwlch Main

Rhyd Ddu

Cwm

Y Lliwedd

Two days down, four to go!

Gladstone Rock

Llan

Y Geuallt

Fridd Uchaf

FINISH

Yr Aran 1 Kilometre

98 A4

1 Mile

t an yn

Bryn Gwynant YHA

Na nt

Craig Wen

Bethania

NORTH

s ina

nD Lly

5 08

snowdon haute route nov11 swcmsi.indd 36

Allt Maenderyn

On Snowdon’s ‘sunny’ summit.

Cwm Careog

4 Watk in Path

h at

Bwlch Cwm Llan

STRENUOUSNESS ■ ■ ■■■ NAVIGATION ■ ■ ■■■ TECHNICALITY ■ ■ ■■■

Start Beddgelert Forest Campsite (SH577490) Finish Bryn Gwynant Youth Hostel (SH640513) Distance 17km (10½ miles) Total ascent 1080m Terrain roads, open moorland, open corrie, narrow mountain col, steep and narrow ridges,

Bwlch Ciliau

Cwm Tregalan

Beddgelert to Bryn Gwynant

START

A49

ou have looked at Snowdon for the last two days; now it is time to climb it. It is a very busy mountain, but by tackling it from the south and exploiting less well-trodden paths our Welsh ‘haute route’ manages to keep the crowds at bay for all but the summit visit. Taking quieter paths however does not mean you miss out on any of this majestic mountain’s stunning features. You get to experience its soaring ridges, dashing streams and dark brooding crags at close range and in all their glory.

Snowdon standing stone

stony summit, steep and rocky mountain path, narrow traverse, exposed col, steep zigzags and quarry tracks Maps British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Snowdonia; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdon; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115

Beddgelert

SH577490 Head north up the busy A4085 to the entrance to Ffridd Uchaf (farm). Turn right and follow the track past the farm to join the footpath. Follow it north to a junction with a bridleway.

Turn right and follow the bridleway (old quarry track) to Bwlch Cwm Llan. SH605521 Climb the crest of the south ridge to Bwlch Main. Join the Rhyd-Ddu Path and follow it across the narrow ridge and up the summit cone of Snowdon to the café and trig point.

SH609543 Carefully retrace your steps down the Rhyd-Ddu Path for about 150m to the standing

stone that marks the top of the Watkin Path. Join the Watkin Path and follow it east then south-east to Bwlch Ciliau. The top section of the Watkin Path is eroded and fragmented with numerous false paths. If you take a false path, do not persist; instead retrace your steps and gain the main path as the ground off the main path is exposed. SH619536 Turn south-west from the col and follow the path south through Cwm Llan then south-east to join the A498 at Bethania. Turn left and follow the road to the right turn to the Youth Hostel.

You can’t mistake the path out of Cwm Llan.

12/09/2011 09:34

Bryn Gwynant to Pen-y-Pass

Crib Goch and Snowdon in all their glory from Carnedd y Cribau.

TOM BAILEY

STRENUOUSNESS ■■■■■ NAVIGATION ■■■■■ TECHNICALITY ■■■■■

SH637494 Join the path forking left and

follow it through and past the trees. Head north-east then east up the hillside and valley to the col on the south side of Moel Meirch. Turn north and make the short, steep ascent to the summit.

NORTH

Clogwyn BwlchClogqwyn Bwlchy-maen Bwlch Rhiw r Ychen Ceunant Mawr Carnedd y Cribau

SH661503 From Moel Meirch follow the main crest path north all the way to Carnedd y Cribau.

TOM BAILEY

Afon Gla sly n

SH659557 From the Pen-y-Gwryd carefully follow the A4086 to Peny-Pass Youth Hostel. This section of road is busy, so if you don’t fancy walking with traffic there is a footpath lower down the valley.

Llyn Lockwood

A498

Bwlch y Gwyddel

Bwlch y Rhediad

yn an

In the Pen y Gwryd. Famous folk were ’ere!

o Ed n Cw m

Bryn Gwynant YH

98 A4

START

Cerrig Cochion Plas Gwynant

1 Kilometre

Hafod Tan-y-graig

1 Mile

Moel Meirch

3 Llyn Edno

snowdon haute route nov11 swcmsi.indd 37

On the way to Moel Meirch.

SH676537 Descend north to Bwlch Rhiw r Ychen. From here either turn north-west and descend the open hill side to join the A498 near the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel or follow the wall and use it as a navigational handrail to reach the A498 near Llyn Lockwood.

A40

g rri

SH640513 From the Youth Hostel retrace your steps back along the A498 for about 1km until you reach a path (track) on the right (SH630509). Join this and follow it south to join the minor road at SH631503. Turn left and follow the road as it climbs steeply south-east to a bend.

Pen-yPass

e yc fn Ce

Start Bryn Gwynant Youth Hostel (SH640513) Finish Pen-y-Pass Youth Hostel (SH647556) Distance 15.5km (9½ miles) Total ascent 800m Terrain roads, valley paths, open sided corrie, cols, high mountain crest, open hillside and broad grassy ridge Maps British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Snowdonia; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdon; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115

Pen-yGwryd

FINISH

Lly n

ay four is a highlevel crossing of Moel Meirch and Carnedd y Cribau. These twin peaks share a broad, craggy crest and are set in a relatively independent situation that afford them some of the best long-range views in Snowdonia.

TOM BAILEY

DAY 4

Hafodydd Brithion

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FINISH

Idwal Cottage CottageYHA YH

NORTH WALES

Llyn Idwal

Start Pen-y-pass Youth Hostel (SH647556) Finish Idwal Cottage Youth Hostel (SH648603) Distance 9km (5½ miles) Total ascent 750m Terrain steep mountainside, high rocky crest, broad open col, rocky traverse, narrow col and steep-sided corries Maps British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Snowdonia; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdon; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115 SH647556 From the back of the Youth Hostel gain the broad shoulder overlooking Llyn Cwmffynnon. Head northwest to the base of the broad

south ridge of Glyder Fawr, then climb the ridge direct to the summit. SH642579 Head east-north-east along the main ridge, passing the impressive rocks of Castell y Gwynt to reach the summit rocks of Glyder Fach. SH656583 Descend east, watching out for The Cantilever Stone, and aim for the broad col occupied by Llyn Caseg-fraith. SH667582 From just above the col pick up the Miners’ Track and follow it north-west as it traverses below the crags of Glyder Fach to reach Bwlch Tryfan. SH661588 From the col, either make a short out-and-back ascent of Tryfan, or continue down the Miners’ Track to Idwal Cottage Youth Hostel at the western end of Llyn Ogwen.

in Y Grib

5 Bwlch Tryfan

3 Castell y Gwynt

Th e

Glyder Fach

Llyn Cwmffynnon

NORTH

A4 086

Pen-y-Pass YHA YH

Pen-y-Gwryd

A498

START

1 Kilometre 1 Mile

At Pen-y-Pass hostel, (almost) ready for the off.

TOM BAILEY

ridge. On the way down, if you still have energy, a quick out-and-back to Tryfan can easily be included.

Glyder Fawr

Llyn Bochlwyd

s’ TTrraacckk ners’ Mi

Pen-y-Pass to Idwal Cottage o walking route in Snowdonia would be complete without a traverse of the main Glyderau ridge. The two main summits – Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach – with their ring of bristling crags and supporting act of complex corries are a distillation of what makes the mountains of north Wales so special. From Pen-y-Pass it makes sense to tackle the ridge from west to east as this takes advantage of the altitude of the start. The approach up the south ridge of Glyder Fawr is a bit of grunt first thing in the morning, but it does mean you get the work out of the way quickly, leaving you free to relax and explore the main

Tryfan

The Devil’s Kitchen

DAY 5

STRENUOUSNESS ■■■■■ NAVIGATION ■■■■■ TECHNICALITY ■■■■■

On the Miners’ Track, looking up at Tryfan.

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NORTH WALES

MEET OUR CONTRIBUTORS Name Tim Major Age 30 Trail reader for 2 years Hill experience“I live in London with my wife, Nikki. I started regularly walking in the mountains about two years ago when my friend Simon took me to the Lake District to get me out of the city. I was completely hooked and now head for the hills whenever I can. I mainly go to the Lake District or Peak District, and have recently climbed my first 4000m peak in the Alps.“ Name Heather Shand Age 47 Trail reader for 2 years Hill experience “Being from Scotland I climbed a lot of hills with my parents as a child, with my first Munro being Lochnagar at the age of around 12. I stopped for many years and only started seriously again in 2007, when I went on a walking holiday in the Picos de Europas in Spain. I now walk as often

being the In Pin[Skye’s Inaccessible Pinnacle] in April this year. My favourite hill is Suilven in Assynt. I don’t have a good head for heights so the hills with exposure are quite intimidating, although always a good challenge.“

This feature couldn’t have happened without readers Heather, Tim and Ian. as possible, sometimes doing Munros, but more often doing Corbetts or smaller, more interesting hills. I have completed 91 Munros in the past four years, with the most scary

Name Ian Thornton Age 29 Trail reader for 3 years Hill experience “My first experience of mountain climbing was as a child, here in Snowdonia. My interest grew in later years, fuelled by reading books and hearing stories from my dad, who’d negotiated various peaks and harder scrambles here in years gone by, often not in the most favourable of conditions. By 2008 I had taken up rock-climbing seriously and the mountains were the obvious place to combine everything. Inevitably I gained an interesting in winter climbing and mountaineering, but I still enjoy easier routes and summer scrambles just as much.“

TOM BAILEY

Off-piste Glyders scrambling with Snowdon as a backdrop.

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‘The two main summits – Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach – with their ring of bristling crags and supporting act of complex corries are a distillation of what makes the mountains of north Wales so special.’

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NORTH WALES Skirting Llyn Idwal, heading up towards the Devil's Kitchen. Pen yr Ole Wen, behind, can await another visit.

Start Idwal Cottage (SH648603) Finish Llanberis, SH582598 Distance 15.8km (9¾ miles) Total ascent 650m Terrain steep-sided corrie, craggy head wall, broad col, high summit ridge, grassy corrie, quarry workings and

and follow the ridge path first to Bwlch y Brecan then west to Bwlch y Marchlyn. Descend Cwm Dudodyn, following the path to Fron. SH605590 Pick up the path that heads north-west and follow it as it traverses through the quarries to the viewpoint.

TOM BAILEY

SH648603 Follow the path south up into Cwm Idwal, then climb the path below the slate Devil’s quarries Kitchen 5 to gain the col that FINISH holds Llaneberis Llanberis Llyn Lly ^ y Cwn nP eri (lake of s the dogs). SH636585 From the col climb the path north then north-west to the summit Nant Peris of Y Garn. SH630595 Descend north then north-west

SH591604 Follow the path down to the road beside Llyn Peris. Join the road and follow it back to Llanberis.

Bwlch y Brecan Elidir Fawr

Pausing above Llanberis, the end of the route.

Idwal Cottage START YH YHA

Ga fr

village roads Maps British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Snowdonia; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdon; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115

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he last day back to Llanberis ends with a flourish, with an ascent of the shapely summit of Y Garn. To start things off, the approach is through the dramatic, craggy depths of Cwm Idwal and up below the frightening gash of the Devil’s Kitchen. An airy ridge-walk over Y Garn then carries you towards the sea and a pleasant descent through the lonely corrie of Cwm Dudodyn. Last but not least a traverse through the fascinating slate quarries leads you back to Llanberis and the end of the route.

STRENUOUSNESS ■■■■■ NAVIGATION ■■■■■ TECHNICALITY ■■■■■

Du do dyn

Idwal Cottage to Llanberis

Right: at Idwal Cottage. Heather remains cheerful in the face of adversity.

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DAY 6

N Y Garn

NORTH

3 4

Llyn Idwal

The Devil’s Kitchen Devil’s Kitchen

Fron

Name Age 3 Trail Hill e Londo I start in the years

Gwastadnant

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^ Llyn LlynyCwn Cwn

1 Kilometre

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1 Mile

12/09/2011 09:46