Trail magazine December 2013 by Trail magazine

L I V E FO R T H E O U T D O O R S

LIVE FOR THE OUTDOORS

DECEMBER 2013

THE UK’S BEST-SELLING HILLWALKING MAGAZINE

3 THRILLING ROUTES

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13 ROUTES USING THE UK’S BEST MAPS

DECEMBER 2013 £3.99

S EC R E T S O F T H E

LAKE DISTRICT

HILLS, CAVES, WILD SLEEPS... AND THE BEST VALLEY YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF!

CAIRNGORM EXPRESS! Ben Macdui by sleeper train

3 DAY BRECON BEACONS EPIC

Quick, before the snow!

the one that fancied a new pair of hooves for its night on Europe’s most notorious mountain face

MOUNTAIN GUIDE

EIGER BIVVY!

How to sleep on its north face. No, really.

DON’T GET LOST SURVIVE A FALL BEAT CRAMP

The mountain that feeds a billion people FIND OUT HOW: p14

THE BOOTS ISSUE

REVEALED: THE BEST KIT YOUR CASH CAN BUY IN OUR TEST SPECIAL

CONTENTS If you or someone you know are aged between 16 and 24 and are interested in work experience opportunities at Bauer Media go to: www.gothinkbig.co.uk

‘IT WAS OBVIOUS TO ALL: THIS WAS CLOSE TO WILD CAMPING PERFECTION...’ TRAIL GETS GUSHY IN LANGSTRATH

Post: Trail editorial, Bauer, Media House, Lynch Wood, Peterborough PE2 6EA Email: trail@bauermedia.co.uk Prefix all 6-digit numbers with 01733 EDITORIAL Editor Simon Ingram (468205) Associate editor Oli Reed (468369) Art editor Louise Parker (468292) Designer Katie Wilkinson (468386) Production editor Sally Walters (468165) Features editor Dan Aspel (468698) News and features writer Ben Weeks (468363) Photographer Tom Bailey Technical editor Graham Thompson Mountaineering editor Jeremy Ashcroft Map illustrator Steve Hall (468235) Head of publishing Shane Collins (468236) ADVERTISING Key account director Heather Smith (468442) heather.smith@bauermedia.co.uk Commercial director Iain Grundy (468078) Key account director Mark Wheat (468868) Display sales Rachel Simpson (366375) Classified sales Amy Woods (366376) MARKETING Direct marketing manager Emma Nicholls (468304) Marketing manager Jo Burton (468163) Head of newstrade marketing Leon Benoiton (468129) Deputy newstrade mktg mgr Janet Vaughan (468128) PRODUCTION Print production manager Lucinda Westwood (468062) Print production Colin Robinson (468072) Advertising production Gavin Mills (468675) Printers Polestar Bicester Distribution Frontline (555161) SUBSCRIPTIONS AND BACK ISSUES Visit www.greatmagazines.co.uk For subscription or back issue queries please contact CDS Global on bauer@subscription.co.uk Phone from the UK on 0844 848 8872 (0844 calls from landlines cost 5p per minute. Calls from mobiles may cost more.) Phone from overseas on +44 (0)1858 438760 BAUER CONSUMER MEDIA Managing director Leisure & Technology Sam Fitz-Gibbon Editorial director June Smith-Sheppard Head of digital Charlie Calton-Watson Group direct marketing director Chris Gadsby Finance director Lisa Hayden Group finance director Sarah Vickery Group managing director Rob Munro-Hall CEO Paul Keenan Cover photo Isle of Skye by Tom Bailey Trail magazine is published 13 times of year by Bauer Consumer Media Ltd, registered address 1 Lincoln Court, Lincoln Road, Peterborough PE1 2RF. Registered number 01176085. No part of the magazine may be reproduced in any form in whole or in part, without prior permission of the publisher. All material published remains the copyright of Bauer Consumer Media Ltd. We reserve the right to edit letters, copy or images submitted to the magazine without further consent. The submission of material to Bauer Media, whether unsolicited or requested, is taken as permission to publish in the magazine, including any licensed editions throughout the world. Any fees paid in the UK include remuneration for any use in any other licensed editions. We cannot accept any responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, images or materials lost or damaged in the post. While every reasonable care is taken to ensure accuracy, the publisher is not responsible for any errors or omissions nor do we accept any liability for any loss or damage, howsoever caused, resulting from the use of the magazine. Competition terms and conditions, and winners’ details, are available from the editorial address above; please enclose an SAE. Letters / photos sent without an SAE cannot be answered / returned. Emails cannot always be replied to personally; sorry.

BASECAMP

SKILLS

Dream peak

Skye’s pyramidal powerhouse: gorgeous Glamaig

WANTED: Arctic explorer 8 Want to dogsled across Norway? Sign up here!

The Mountain Inquisition 10

Mountain Guide

YOUR TRAIL

Fresh from wrestling a snake: Steve Backshall

Wales for sale

The Rhinogs are up for grabs. What’s the deal?

High Lights: December Your month of mountainy stuff, sorted

In Box

Keep an eye out for Huskies... BEN WEEKS

The world of hillwalking, according to you lot

Out There

Your best mountain moments, on camera

Subscribe to Trail p8

Find yourself when lost; survive a fall; combat cramp; essential map know-how; pack the perfect car boot; master your trekking poles; beat blisters; PLUS the world’s deadliest peaks and the truth about wild water

Where this month’s issue will take you Camping on the west side of Langstrath – a strong, but little known, contender for Lakeland’s loveliest valley.

p22

p66

matt roberts

A night out on the Eiger (it’s not as scary as you think). dan aspel

p117

Ultimate weekend: three stonking routes on the Isle of Skye. Peter macfarlane

adventures

gear

routes

Behind the picture

Incoming!

Langstrath valley

First test

Aviemore express

Bagging Ben Macdui in a weekend... by train!

3-season boots

The Cheviot

3-4 season boots

Eiger north face bivvy

Handheld GPS units

The greatest mountain no-one has ever climbed

An ecstatic probing of Lakeland’s secretest nook

Grim. Grey. Ghostly. Is this England’s weirdest hill?

A night out on the Alps’ deadliest wall. Lovely.

The must-have hill kit that’s available soon

Petzl’s Tikka RXP: their best ever headtorch?

Kit for the Cairngorms 96 Used and abused

North York Moors 103 Lake District 105 Pennines 107 Snowdonia 109 South Highlands 111 Southern Uplands 113 Eastern Skye 117 Brecon Beacons 123 Classic Route: Rhinogs 129

december 2013 Trail 5

base camp

The sacred mountain

To many Mount Kailash is the most important and beautiful place on the planet... but no-one has ever gloried in the view from its summit.

ven by Tibetan standards Mount Kailash is remote. Sitting in the country’s wild west it is accessible only by rough track and many days of walking. Nearby lies Lake Manasarovar – at 4600m one of the world’s highest freshwater lakes and reputedly one of the most beautiful places on Earth. But here comes the puzzling fact: although Kailash is far from a giant by Himalayan standards (it reaches a modest 6638m) nobody has ever climbed it. 14 Trail december 2013

This is because there is more to the mountain than its four sheer faces and its snow-riven summit. Much more. In fact, many believe it to be the point around which the Earth revolves, and maybe even the centre of the universe. To well over a billion people, this is the most important mountain on the planet. To Tibetan Buddhists it is the home of Demchog, a representative of supreme bliss, while to Hindus it is the realm of Shiva, destroyer of evil and sorrow.

This ownership didn’t come easily and – if legend is to be believed – religions have clashed upon the peak too. The story goes that Kailash was the site of a race between the magicians Milarepa – a Buddhist champion – and Naro Bon-chung, hero of the indigenous Bon religion. While Naro floated up the slopes on a magic drum, Milarepa won the race to the mountain’s summit by riding on the rays of the sun, and so established his as Tibet’s dominant religion.

behind the picture

Words Dan Aspel photo JTB MEDIA CREATION, Inc./Alamy

Kailash: unclimbed, uncanny, unspeakably incredible.

Today, its draw is stronger than ever. Despite warnings that nobody may approach the realm of Demchog “without risking his life – and perhaps even the sanity of his mind”, many thousands do every year. The reward is great: the Kora – a sacred 52km circuit of the mountain – is said to cleanse you of a life of bad karma. Performing it 108 times will even break the cycle of reincarnation and lead you to nirvana at your death. Sometimes attempted in a day (though most take three) it is a life’s pilgrimage

and far from an easy option, taking in a 5600m pass along its route. The source of its power is very real, both spiritually and practically. Within 30 miles of the mountain (and corresponding to the points of the compass) you can find the sources of the Indus, the Sutlej, the Brahmaputra, and the Karnali – tributary to the Ganges. All of which means that this area, if not the mountain alone, is responsible for nourishing a large chunk of the world’s population.

In the mid-1980s, living legend of the Himalaya Reinhold Messner was offered the chance to climb Kailash by the Chinese government. It was most definitely against the wish of the native Tibetans and he declined. At the start of the 21st century, when Beijing again tried to coax a Spanish team into the feat he went on the record as saying: “If we conquer this mountain, then we conquer something in people’s souls”. His words struck a chord. Kailash remains sacred, and unclimbed, today. december 2013 Trail 15

BASE CAMP

JOIN THE POLAR EXPRESS Applications for the Fjällräven Polar 2014 open in November, but what is it and why should you care? Allow Trail to explain…

Having a whale of a time at Low Water, below Coniston Old Man. TOM BAILEY

BEN WEEKS

ou’ll travel 300km through the Scandinavian Arctic. Crossing vast frozen lakes and sky-piercing mountains. Driving a sled that’s being dragged by a team of dogs. Coping with sub-zero temperatures. Striving. Surviving. If all this sets the adventure bells ringing in your head (and let’s face it, it really should), then this is an opportunity you definitely don’t want to miss. And even better, it won’t cost you a penny. Zilch. Nada. Zero. Fjällräven covers the lot. The slightly less good news is that places on this trip are incredibly limited, and competition for those spots is fierce. In a nutshell, the Fjällräven Polar is a four-day 8 TRAIL DECEMBER 2013

The good news is, these guys do most of the exercise for you.

expedition across the frozen north of Norway and Sweden, travelling by dog-sled and wild camping on the frozen tundra. In addition to being tutored on driving sleds and caring for your team of dogs, participants are taught key skills by Swedish survival guru Johan Skullman. You’ll also be equipped with all the clothing and kit you need to survive four tough days on the ice. Be warned; this is no luxury tour – it’s a life-affirming challenge. But if learning new skills, encountering new experiences, and discovering some of the world’s most stunning scenery sounds appealing, then you just might be a Fjällräven Polar kind of person.

happenings from high places

Can you picture yourself doing this? Then sign up today.

OUTDOORS INDOORS Get your mountain fix without leaving the sofa. This month… …WATCH THIS Into the Mind This stunning movie from Sherpas Cinema revolves around an unnamed explorer who aims to climb, then ski down, one of the gnarliest mountains you’ll ever see – and the cinematography will blow your mind. With footage from Alaska, Bolivia, the Himalayas and beyond, it’s a celebration of everything we love about mountains, exploration and adventure. BUY IT FROM The iTunes Store (£9.99)

…READ THIS Shore to Summit

How to apply... The application process is more complicated than your average event. You can’t buy your way onto the Polar; you have to be chosen, either by votes from your peers or by the Fjällräven panel. You’ll need a Facebook account, plus a short video or photo with a brief explanation of why you should be selected for the trip. Once your submission is online, people can vote for you, so be sure to rope in all your friends, family and colleagues. The UK applicant with the most votes will be chosen, then a second participant will be selected by Fjällräven. The application process opens on 14 November and closes on 10 December. For full details and to see a video of Trail’s 2013 adventure, visit www.lfto.com/polar

Are you tough enough? Trail knows exactly how gruelling this event can be because we sent our very own Ben Weeks on last year’s expedition, and fortunately he lived to tell the tale… How hard is the Fjällräven Polar? “You get hot, tired and damp, running alongside the sled in deep snow and up steep gradients. Then it’s back on the sled, motionless and exposed to the Arctic wind. I’ve never felt cold like it. Temperatures dropped to around -25 deg C. It was a steep learning curve.”

How spectacular is the scenery? “The frozen tundra is an ever-changing mix of soaring peaks, sparse forests and vast wilderness. And for 99 per cent of the time, you’ll be the only people in it. It’s beautiful, but also quite intimidating.” What was the highlight? “Camping on frozen lakes, starting a fire with a knife and flint, bivvying in a snow-ditch, the Northern Lights, and the camaraderie amongst the participants. I left a bit of myself in the Scandinavian tundra, and I’m not talking frostbite.”

Ever wondered what those hills you keep walking up are made of? You’re in luck, because this visually amazing book takes you on a photographic journey through the complex geology of Britain and Ireland. Did you know that Glen Coe was once the site of a ‘supervolcano’, or that Wast Water’s deepest point is 15m below sea level? You’ll know all that, plus a lot more, by the time you’ve finished it. BUY IT FROM www.franceslincoln.com (£20)

…DOWNLOAD THIS ViewRanger Outdoors GPS & Maps (Version 4) This superb offline navigation app is free, fully updated for winter 2013, and you don’t even need a phone signal to use it. ViewRanger V4 also provides precise GPS-mapped locations and lets you track and store your favourite routes – you can even add Flickr photos to help you remember your day. If you need inspiration, it also has a massive library of walks – including Trail’s – to choose from. DOWNLOAD IT FROM The App Store, Google Play and The Nokia Store (Free)

…ORGANISE YOURSELF WITH THIS 2014 Wainwright diary If you spend too much time daydreaming about mountains to get organised, why not combine the two with a 2014 diary full of illustrations by renowned guidebook author Alfred Wainright? The pocket diary contains images and anecdotes from Wainwright’s famous Coast to Coast Walk, while the desk diary is Lake District themed. BUY IT FROM www. franceslincoln.com (Pocket: £7.99, Desk: £13.99)

december 2013 Trail 9

GO: Lake District DO: Langstrath valley

THAT

LINGERING FEELING When it comes to exploring a place like the Langstrath valley and its fells, a map and compass are useful tools. But the most important thing you need is something altogether less tangible; time. WORDS BEN WEEKS PHOTOGRAPHS MATTHEW ROBERTS

22 TRAIL DECEMBER 2013

Taking in the morning air above the Lake District's best kept secret.

december 2013 Trail 23

MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Scenario

Lost in bad weather in winter: your immediate actions count.

REALISING YOU’RE LOST You’re not sure how it happened. You think you did everything right. But now the weather’s closed in, and you don’t know where you are... WHAT’S UP?

STOP. If you think you’re lost, going further isn’t an option until you’ve established where you are. Sit down, have a snack and drink, relax and think.

Wait, if you can. If you’re caught in bad visibility, consider what you have with you and whether you can comfortably sit out the conditions, or at least until the cloud lifts and you can assess your surroundings.

Gather intelligence. What did you pass recently? In what order? How far have you travelled since your last known position? How long ago was that? Write all of these things down. Then, using your map, after working out the above, find your last known position and draw a circle around it. The circle’s radius should be the distance you think you’ve travelled. You are, therefore, somewhere inside this circle: compare the map within it with your surroundings.

Check your phone. Even if you have no phone signal there are apps out there – such as Grid Ref – which can give you an accurate grid reference within moments. If it’s an emergency, dial 999 or 112 – even if your phone claims to have no signal. You can see a video on how the 112 number works at www.lfto.com/112

Try to terrain associate. If you can, identify a linear feature – a ridgeline, break in slope, track or stream – and see how it relates to your map. If you know the mountain you’re on and are stood on a slope, consider performing a slope aspect (see below).

GO FURTHER The Ultimate Navigation Manual by Lyle Brotherton is available now, and Trail highly recommends it.

ASPECT OF SLOPE: WHAT IS IT? This is a technique for narrowing down your position. You need to know roughly the area you’re in, and you need to be on a slope. ■ Face down the slope and take a bearing directly down it.

56 TRAIL DECEMBER 2013

■ Having subtracted three degrees for magnetic variation, keep your compass set and put it on the map where you think you are. ■ Place the compass so the orienting lines are aligned with the map’s vertical gridlines (ignore the needle). Now move

the compass around until you find a slope with contours that the edge of your baseplate crosses at right angles. ■ This could be the slope you’re on, as it has the same downward direction as the one you took a bearing down.

Lyle says: The most obvious yet overlooked technique is to identify any prominent distant features such as mountain tops, and identify them on your map. Take bearings to them, then sketch the line of the bearings onto your map from the feature. Where these lines intersect will be roughly where you are. This is called a resection.

“

PERFECTLY PLANNED DAN

WISDOM FROM TRAIL’S MOST SMUGLY PREPARED STAFFER

4 9

5 8 7 6

11 10

JUST-IN-CASE CAR BOOT 1

Walking poles handy for all sorts of reasons, particularly in snow.

First aid kit another dual purpose tool: as good for the car as it is for the hill.

Rucksack not only handy for the hill, but vital for keeping a tidy boot...

Hydration pack / water bottle hydration packs are best – they scrunch.

Hat and gloves go on, pop them in the glove box. Make its day.

Food and stove avoid perishables, look for hill grub with a long shelf life.

Waterproof jacket and trousers 3 Lightweight waterproofs will pack down to practically nothing, but offer vital protection from the elements. Down jacket / baselayers 4 prudent for those unplanned overnights in a snowdrift: this is essential kit for unplanned walks in the hills.

Bivvy, roll mat and sleeping bag 9 impromptu nights on the hill should be encouraged, not feared.

Maps, compass, GPS a small,

10 semi-permanent stash of maps in

the car can lead you to all sorts of places. The rest is to get you there. Camera because sometimes a mobile

11 phone snapper just isn’t enough.

Headtorch a torch is essential anyway;

12 might as well make it a headtorch.

Boots and socks sling these in a boot

13 bag, along with a chunk of the rest of the

gear, and your emergency kit doesn’t need to consume your boot.

DECEMBER 2013 TRAIL 57

GO: By sleeper train DO: Ben Macdui & Braeriach

TICKET TO

34 TRAIL DECEMBER 2013

Cairn Toul, from the summit ridge of Braeriach. All this – and not a second wasted to, nor from.

STRIDE

Love the idea of escaping for a mountain-packed weekend in Scotland but put off by the journey time? Trail’s got just the ticket. It’s called sleeping. WORDS TIM MAJOR PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

DECEMBER 2013 TRAIL 35

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■ Terms & Conditions Subscriptions will start with the next available issue. The minimum term is 6 issues. After your first 13 issues (1 year) your subscription will continue at £44.51 every 13 issues thereafter unless you are notified otherwise. You will not receive a renewal reminder and the Direct Debit payments will continue to be taken unless you tell us otherwise. This offer closes on 30 December, 2013. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Calls from a BT landline will cost no more than 4p a minute. Call charges from other landline providers or mobile phones may vary. Order lines open 8am-9.30pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-4pm (Sat). UK orders only. Overseas? Phone +44 1858 438828. Calls may be monitored or recorded for training purposes.

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GEAR NEWS

INCOMING!

A quick round-up of the new kit Trail has been playing with on and off the hill.

PRODUCT OF THE MONTH

Wild Stripes base layer £35 For too long base layers have been viewed as dull, uninspiring garments. True, in recent years the spectrum has become a little more varied, but nothing particularly exciting... until now. To quote Wild Stripes, it is “on a mission to put the fun back into thermals.” As such, its base layers come in a variety and combination of striped colours not usually seen outside of a packet of Liquorice Allsorts. With zip-neck shirts, long johns, neck gaiters and hats also available, these toasty layers are the perfect antidote to a cold grey winter’s day. We’d call that mission accomplished. www.wildandstriped.com

74 TRAIL DECEMBER 2013

Disclaimer: amateur mime artist not included with each base layer.

Kovea Spider stove £50 Kovea is new to the UK market. Actually that’s not strictly true, as Kovea has been making stoves for other people for some time. If you’ve ever used an MSR Pocket Rocket, you’ll be familiar with their robust and reliable construction. The Spider stove is light (168g) and packable (fits inside a Trangia kettle along with a 100ml gas canister) and has a precision regulator, so it’s simple to turn up and down. A pre-heat tube means it can be used in low temperatures by inverting the canister. www.mercatorgear.com

WIN PRIZES WORTH £815 Top-notch hillwalking kit is up for grabs! Win 1x Nemo OBI 1P tent featured below

Bizarre but brilliant? Garmin Virb action camera £270

Win 1x Anatom Q2 3-season boots reviewed on page 83

Garmin, the GPS/satnav company, has made a camera. To be fair, many of its GPS devices have included a camera function, but this is its first dedicated device. Designed to be attached to a range of action accessories including helmets, handlebars and harnesses, the rugged Virb records in full HD video and shoots 16 megapixel images. If you’ve got the extra cash, the £350 Elite version also features Wi-Fi, GPS, and comes in white. www.garmin.com

Yellowbrick Two-Way Messenger from £399

Win 1x Scarpa SL 3-4 season boots reviewed on page 91

Part GPS tracker, part locator beacon, part satellite communications device, this tool allows the carrier’s movements to be tracked online, and enables communication via SMS or email from anywhere with a clear view of the sky. All models bar the basic version have Bluetooth connectivity. In addition to the unit price, there’s a monthly fee and you need to buy credits to send messages. Probably of more use to guides, mountaineers and trekkers than the average walker. www.yellowbrick-tracking.com

BEN WEEKS

Nemo camping kit from £37 Nothing to do with the lost fish, but a US manufacturer looking to make waves this side of the pond. The gear we received is certainly solid, well made and brilliantly designed. We particularly like the spoon-shaped sleeping bags that offer extra room to get comfortable. Some of the gear is focused more on comfort than weight, so is better suited to car or base camping. But Nemo manufactures an impressive range that also includes kit for lightweight backpackers and extreme adventurers. Definitely a brand to keep an eye on. www.nemoequipment.com

Win 1x Wild Stripes base layer and long johns featured opposite

To be in with a chance of winning one of these fab prizes go to: www.lfto.com/winthisgear

DECEMBER 2013 TRAIL 75

BOOTS SPECIAL!

78 TRAIL DECEMBER 2013

GROUP TEST

THE VERDICT YOU CAN TRUST UNDERSTANDING TRAIL'S TESTS MAGAZINE

BEST IN TEST This is awarded to the best in its class...

MAGAZINE

BEST VALUE ...whereas this offers the most bang for its buck.

= Men’s version

= Women’s version

What our scores mean Trail’s all for transparency and consistency in gear tests, so our scoring is done by a simple star grading system. The stars tot up to form an average star grade, to make the overall rating. POOR BELOW AVERAGE AVERAGE GOOD PERFORMANCE THE BEST IN ITS CLASS

MAGAZINE

✱ ✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱

BEST IN TEST MAGAZINE BEST VALUE

3 -SEASON & 3-4 SEASON BOOTS MAGAZINE TEST AND STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHY GRAHAM THOMPSON OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY

Whether it's a pair of boots to use below the snowline or something you can use year-round... you'll find the best kit for your cash right here.

MAGAZINE BEST IN TE BEST VALU

DECEMBER 2013 TRAIL 79

GROUP TEST WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A BOOT ANKLE CUFF

FIT No boot is worth having if it doesn’t fit. The inside of the boot should be about 13-15mm longer than your foot, which you can gauge by putting it on without tightening the laces, then placing your forefinger down the inside of the heel. The upper should feel snug and comfortable across the foot.

The ankle cuff helps prevent mud and grit entering the boot, and also protects the ankle against being scraped on rocks. The stiffness in the cuff reduces the strain on the ankle when traversing slopes and scrambling by adding extra support, which

makes the boot less tiring to wear on rockier ground or snow. But on easier ground, smooth paths and moorland, ankle support is less important. Some walkers also prefer the freedom and easier ankle movement of boots with lower or softer cuffs.

3-4 season boots

3-season boots

page 89

page 83

MIDSOLE STIFFNESS Grab the boot by both ends, then bend the toe towards the heel, before twisting the toe while holding the heel stationary. The harder it is to bend the boot in these two directions, the better the boot will perform on snow and ice, and the more compatible it will be with crampons. A 3-season boot will be quite bendy, while a 3-4 season boot will be stiffer.

OUTSOLE LUGS Lugs with deep, wide grooves will bite into soft mud without clogging, while also providing many years of wear before they’re too shallow to give a good grip on soft ground.

DURABILITY If you want your boots to last as long as possible, look for uppers with minimal stitching and a thick strip of rubber covering the toe box. For maximum durability, look for a rubber strip (also known as a rand) that stretches around the whole boot. Durable designs are most important if you walk on rockier ground, but not so important if you walk less often in the hills or tend to stick to paths or moorland walks.

CRAMPON COMPATIBILITY Not all boots are designed to be used with crampons, due to the stiffness of the sole and flexibility of the upper. Crampons aren’t generally recommended for 3-season boots, but flexible crampons rated as C1 can be fitted to 3-4 season boots, while stiffer crampons rated as C2 can be fitted to 4-season boots.

boots special Why you need...

3-season boots

3-4 season boots

The most important piece of kit for a hillwalker is a pair of boots that can get you to the top of the hill and back again without slipping, tripping or developing wet feet and blisters. While many boots cost well over £140 there are a few models priced between £110 and £130 that provide all the features you need when walking below the snowline. Boots in this price range are often quite bendy in the sole, making them less suitable for mountain use and certainly not the best option for use in snow, or when needing crampons. But if you mainly stick to good paths, they’re a good budget option. Some boots in this price range can also be used on rockier ground thanks to stiffer uppers and more aggressive sole units, and we’ve focused on models that offer a little more performance for the adventurous walker. All the boots in this test are broadly categorised as 3-season boots. Some manufacturers describe boots that are more bendy in the sole and more flexible in the upper as 2-3 season boots, which tend to be lighter but the compromise is reduced support on rocky ground.

You don’t need to own lots of pairs of boots, but if you buy just one pair then you have to get it right. A 3-4 season boot is a good all-rounder that can be worn for most situations, making it great for people who walk all year, no matter what the conditions. These boots are stiffer than the 3-season alternatives and provide good grip in full winter conditions, as you can kick the toe or edges into the snow. You can also fit crampons onto 3-4 season boots more securely and comfortably. When walking below the snowline, the stiffness of a 3-4 season boot is ideal for scrambling over rockier ground, because it won’t bend and distort. The result is that the boot feels more secure and stops your feet becoming tired when travelling over tough terrain. The stiffness in the sole means 3-4 season boots are slightly less comfortable than their more flexible 3-season counterparts. But if you only want one pair of boots and can tolerate the more robust fit, you'll get a superb general-purpose boot for bagging Munros and climbing the bigger hills of Britain, as well as trekking abroad.

What we tested

Mammut

Atlas GTX £110

Brasher

Ahklun GTX £175

Anatom

Q2 £115

Mammut

Merlon GTX £180

Brasher

Hillwalker II GTX £120

Alt-Berg

Mallerstang £190

Berghaus

Explorer Ridge GTX £125

Hanwag

Alaska £215

Scarpa

Cyclone GTX £125

Scarpa

SL Activ £225

Salomon

Conquest GTX £130

The North Face

Verto S4K GTX £230

Zamberlan

Steens GTX £130

Meindl

Himalaya MFS £245

Treksta

Alta GTX £130

La Sportiva

Trango Alp GTX £250

How Trail did the test

Manufacturers were asked to send boots that matched our criteria (3-season boots, £110-£130) and we received 12 pairs, which were whittled down to the eight finalists featured here and tested in the Lake District. Read reviews of the boots not featured ( Keen Marshall Mid £120, Merrell Chameleon Arc 2 Rival £125, The North Face Wreck Mid GTX £130 and Karrimor KSB Coniston £130) at www.lfto.com

How Trail did the test

Manufacturers were asked to send boots that matched our criteria (3-4 season crampon-compatible) and we received 10 pairs, which were whittled down to the eight finalists featured here and tested in the Lake District. Read reviews of the two boots not featured here (Salewa Rapace GTX £170 and Zamberlan Trek Magic £250) at www.lfto.com

december 2013 Trail 81

GO: North Pennines DO: The Cheviot

the hill of lost Murdered lords, hanged sheep, obliterated aircraft and centuries of bloodshed, all wrapped up in one sinister Pennine peak. Welcome to The Cheviot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Englandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s final frontier. Words Oli Reed Photographs Tom Bailey

46 Trail decEMber 2013

Whoever dropped that boot must have left in a hurry (and presumably was left with one very sore foot.)

souls

decEMber 2013 Trail 47

route

ISLE OF SKYE

Familiar but fun

10.3km/6½ miles

always take a map out with you on the hill

Beinn na Caillich

NG626218 Beinn na Beinn na Caillich under blue Caillich might be the Thurso skies from the cairn near most familiar peak on Skye; the start of the route. STRENUOUSNESS ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ it’s the first thing you see ISLENAVIGATION OF LEWIS ■■■■■ when you cross the bridge TECHNICALITY ■ ■ ■ ■ ■Lairg from the mainland, a huge HARRIS Ullapool pink dome rising straight from the sea. It sits directly ISLE OF SKYE Inverness above Broadford (our base for the weekend) and can Portree Shiel Bridge be climbed from there Aviemore withoutAberdeen the need of using Inverie Invergarry Mallaig Braemar the car or waiting for a bus Fort William by adding 2km of extra trekking at the beginning MULL Oban and end of the route. The start point is at a layby next Distance 10.3km to a Neolithic chambered JURA Glasgow Edinburgh (6½ miles) cairn, the remains of which TotalISLAY ascent 994m Berwick-upon-Tweed are worth a visit. The path Time 5 hoursOFISLE we follow initially is part of ARRAN Ayr a touristJedburgh circular route from Start/finish Broadford and it’s easy to NG626218Ballantrae Dumfries becomes bouldery, which miss at first; catch it as it there’s a huge cairn, which Newcastle Terrain paths and Newton Stewart Londonderry -upon-Tyne is easier underfoot than it circles below legend says is the burial Carlisle the outcrop Stranraer grassy terrain on the looks as you can use them withKeswick the cairn and follow cairn of a Norse princess. Penrith Belfast lower areas with rocky as stepping stones. it across the grassyMiddlesbrough strath The descent from the terrain on the upper (valley) andKendal over a wooden summit is on a gentle slope Northallerton Windermere slopes and ridges NG601233 The bridge until it reaches the that carries you onto a wellIngleton 3 Maps Harvey Skye summit is a fantastic old hamlet of Bentham Coire-chatdefined grassy ridge where York Superwalker (1:25,000); Lancaster viewpoint. Back over the achan. a path can be followed on Skipton OS Landranger 32 water to the mainland the crest. The ridge then Leeds the Munros look less NG619227 Beyond climbs through some rocky (1:50,000); OS Explorer Liverpool Manchester 2 Dublin impressive than where the ruins the ascent ground to a more level, airy Rhyl 411 (1:25,000) Conway you’re standing, the Skye is Bodelwyddan initially gently-angled section which rises easily Sheffield Guidebook The Islands coastline running north to the very top of Beinn of Scotland includingBetws-y-Coedgrassy terrain, which soon Llangollen and becomes begs for some exploring, steepens Dearg Mhor. Skye, pb SMC; The and beyond the other tops rockier as height isDerby gained. Corbetts, pb SMC Barmouth in our weekender stands Towards the summit it The Peterborough 4 NG587228 Aberystwyth Birmingham the black crown of the flat, rocky summit of Waterford Cuillin. On the summit Beinn Dearg Mhor has a Hay-on-Wye Cardigan big, well-constructed cairn Brecon Gloucester but even more impressive 3 Oxford is Blabheinn, which stands Pembroke impressively above the Swansea Cardiff Bristol water of Loch Slapin below. The mix of mountains and 4 Minehead sea is one of the things Southampton that sets Skye apart in Brighton the UK; it adds scale and 2 Exeter Poole drama to every ascent. Bodmin Descend steeply and Plymouth carefully from the summit 5 1 on a rocky ridge that takes you to the Bealach Coire Sgreamhach. Cross the flat grassy bealach and

facts

gal

GRADIENT PROFILE

Start

1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200 MILES KILOMETRES

Beinn na Caillich

0 0

1 1

118 Trail DECEMbER 2013

Beinn Dearg Mhor

2 2

NG592219 Yet another big cairn awaits you at the top, and the views are still as impressive: for such a tight little horseshoe route you really get a lot back for your effort. The top is flat and rocky, and the way down the east ridge is rocky at first but soon changes back to grass and heather as the ridge flattens out. One last rocky knoll is passed before you arrive in the grassy Coire Beithe. Make your way across the corrie to Coire-chat-achan and from there back to your start point.

In association with

To get this route and maps on your phone now, go to www.viewranger.com/trail Route code TRL0472

Beinn Dearg Bheag

Finish

3 4

climb into and through the very rocky terrain ahead to reach the summit of Beinn Dearg Bheag.

4 5

6 9

Red Cuillin's highest point

always take a map out with you on the hill

ISLE OF SKYE 7.4km/4½ miles

Glamaig

A path 2 NG532310 follows the line of the fence as it climbs past the first crag on the ridge, quite steeply too; the flatter spot on the top of the crag is a good place to catch your breath and enjoy the view over to Raasay. You leave the heather behind and the terrain is now grassy with crags to negotiate. The line of fence posts continues,

but there are gaps in the line so in poor visibility they can’t be relied on to keep you on the right track. One tricky section lies ahead: a scree slope that is still eroding at the top, making it very loose underfoot. The most secure ground is to the left where you can scramble up the more solid rock. There is no exposure, but it is steep so take care. Easier ground lies beyond to take you to the top. NG523304 From the top of An Coileach you get your first view of Glamaig’s main summit as well as what’s beyond it, the Black Cuillin lurking in a dark mass of jagged shapes. You leave the clear sea views behind now so make sure you have a last look, up the coast to The Storr and over the mainland hills, which always seem so far away when you’re on a

3 4 5

Skye summit. The fence posts march onwards across the ridge with a little descent from An Coileach onto a short section of more level ground before the ascent to the grassy dome of Sgurr Mhairi. The actual cairned summit lies a little distance out to the right.

The fenceposts point the way on the ridge from An Coileach to Sgurr Mhairi.

NG513300 The Cuillin are right there in front of you now with Sligachan below, but there’s no less drama in the return route you’ve got ahead. Walk south-east to the top of the slopes that lead to a high bealach joining Glamaig to Beinn Dearg Mhor. The slopes are a mix of steep grass and highly mobile scree, which is almost all small stones, and the going is quite straightforward if slippery underfoot. The views across the bealach to the pink rock of Beinn Dearg Mhor contrast with the dark Cuillin all the way down. NG518293 Descend from Bealach na Sgairde onto boulderstrewn and wet terrain. The ground dries out as you reach the heather lower down. You can pick your own line through the heather or follow one of the sheep tracks. Contour around An Coileach and head for the road by the bridge over the river, then continue by the roadside back to your start point.

GRADIENT PROFILE

Start

1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200 MILES KILOMETRES

1 0 0

An Coileach

Sgurr Mhairi

1 1

STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY Corbetts

■■■■■ ■■■■■ ■■■■■ 1

Distance 7.4km (4½ miles) Total ascent 782m Time 31/2 hours Start/finish NG534317 Terrain steep grass, steep scree slopes, some paths and sections of pathless open ground Maps Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Skye; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 32; OS Explorer (1:25,000) 411 Guidebook The Islands of Scotland including Skye; The Corbetts, both pb SMC

In association with

To get this route and maps on your phone now, go to www.viewranger.com/trail Route code TRL0473

Bealach na Sgairde

Finish

5 2

facts

3 4

4 5

DECEMber 2013 Trail 119

NG534317 Glamaig stands tall on the peninsula between the sea lochs of Loch Sligachan and Loch Ainort, and sea views are something that loom large in the ascent. Start from a layby on the west side of the road and walk south until you see a line of rusty fence posts that climb the ridge of An Coileach. Follow this fence through very boggy ground until it swings to the left onto steeper ground.

route