Trail magazine - July 2015

LANDMARK ANNIVERSARY ISSUE

LIVE FOR THE OUTDOORS

JULY 2015

A

25 years 1990 2015

THE UK’S BEST-SELLING HILLWALKING MAGAZINE

JULY 2015 £4.45

BRITAIN’S GREATEST ROUTE

REVEALED!

25 ULTIMATE

ADVENTURES AS VOTED BY YOU

Torridon in a day Best of Mull in 48hrs Striding Edge in 3D!

THE PERFECT WALK – IN 25 STEPS!

the one that fondly remembers when Alan Hinkes got his kit of

A classic horseshoe Knockout views A summit sleep Wild swimming ...plus 21 more goodies: create yours (or try ours!)

FREE

STAY OUT ALL NIGHT 32-PAGE GUIDE

14 ROUTE CARDS INSIDE

Your next walk with OS maps and gradient profiles

SOLO TENTS & WATERPROOFS 25 YEARS OF TRAIL PLUS INSIDE RAY MEARS’ RUCKSACK!

Contents

WHERE TRAIL WILL TAKE YOU Sometimes – as in the case of Roseberry Topping here – it’s a matter of attitude rather than altitude.

See page 64.

All a hill needs to be a mountain is to feel like one BASE CAMP Climb it

SKILLS 6

The Horns of Alligin: a Scottish ‘life-tick route’

Experience it

8

Wild swimming: ‘strangely unsanctioned?’

Bonington & Scott

10

Together again, to help Nepal’s quake victims

The Mountain Inquisition 12 Prolifc Everest ascender Kenton Cool tells all

ADVENTURES

Expert advice

74

Never forget anything; ticks vs midges; how to pack a rucksack; why we say non to wee; aiming of and handrailing; no insurance needed; why it’s not okay to take souvenirs; one 2-person tent or two 1-person tents?

In box

20

Overnight escapes, from luxury to lunatic: turn to page 106...

26

The best day in our mountains: voted by you

The ultimate hill weekend 42 25 ingredients for a perfect outdoors recipe

Trail turns 25!

YOUR TRAIL

50

Join us in celebrating a very special birthday

The world of walking: your thoughts

Beinn Alligin

Out there

There’s great mountains; then there’s Torridon

22

Your top mountain moments, on camera

FREE!

Britain’s greatest walks

Subscribe to Trail

72

... and grab TWO excellent gifts from Vango

Win the best new gear!

101

Outdoor kit worth £680 is up for grabs

What makes a mountain Why it’s not necessarily all about height Alan Hinkes, 1997: appeared in Trail in his birthday suit (appropriately enough)

58

64

25 years 1990 2015

DAVID TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHY/ ALAMY

Twenty fve years of Trail: how many of these moments do you remember? Page 50!

Scott and Bonington climb for Nepal: page 10.

Ray Mears’ kit: all is revealed on page 97.

Take 25 ingredients for one huge feast of walking: page 42.

ALL NEW! ROUTES

GEAR GUIDE 1-person tents

82

Backpacking shelters for solo sleepers

Waterproof jackets

86

One bit of kit every UK hillwalker should own

Water purification

90

Assorted systems to make supping safe

Top kit for luxury camping 92 Gear to consider if you’re kipping at low level

First test

94

Regatta’s pleasingly priced 2-person tent

What’s in your rucksack? 97 Ray Mears sheds light on the kit he carries

Used & abused

98

Team Trail appraises its most-worn gear

1 Loadpot Hill 2 Cautley Spout 3 Y Garn 4 Preseli Hills 5 Ochil Hills 6 St Kilda 7-9 Elterwater 10-12 Isle of Mull

109 111 113 115 117 119 121 125

PLUS Walks of a lifetime Ridge guide Map of the month

130 135 137

Walks of a Lifetime An Teallach St Kilda

6

3 routes on the...

Isle of Mull 10 11 5 12

Map of the month Ben Nevis Ochil Hills

5

Ridge Guide Striding Edge Loadpot Hill

7

3 routes from...

Elterwater

8 9

Cautley Spout 2

Y Garn

3

Preseli Hills

4

● CHOOSE YOUR ROUTE AND GO HILLWALKING!

JULY 2015 TRAIL 5

1

TRYFAN SNOWDONIA Gareth Davies, leaping between Adam and Eve in a picture taken by his girlfriend Jasmin Wells from Welshpool. Jasmin told Trail, “ I absolutely LOVED my frst Grade 1 scramble. It was a fantastic sunny day, and so much fun!

I am now a climbing/ scrambling addict!”

SCAFELL PIKE LAKE DISTRICT Graham Bell from Tyneside, proudly fying the English fag on St George’s Day on England’s highest mountain. The photo was taken

by Graham’s walking buddy Paul Ridley, following an overnight camp in Wasdale.

HELVELLYN LAKE DISTRICT Pete, Alison, Gillian, Jamie, John and Anthony (not forgetting Angel) on a big family get-together. Gillian, from Skelmanthorpe, said they had a great day ascending via Striding Edge and descending via Swirral Edge.

22 TRAIL JULY 2015

CARN MOR DEARG W HIGHLANDS Czech reader Petr Kolegar (left) with walkers from Switzerland and Scotland, who he bumped in to on the summit prior to an ascent of Ben Nevis (behind) via the CMD Arête. Petr was particularly happy as this day saw him complete his challenge: to climb The Ben each month in a year. Petr stood his camera on the summit cairn to take the photo.

Out there Send us your shots, share your adventures

Email your photos to us, along with a description of what was special about your day, and we’ll publish the most inspiring examples!

Put Out there in the subject box, and send them to trail@bauermedia.co.uk

CARRAUNTOOHIL CO KERRY Here are cousins Chris Barrett (Perth, Australia), Mary Gregan ( Oxford), and Sean and Karen King (Buxton). Mary told Trail, “We had been to a large family gathering, which was huge fun – but climbing Ireland’s highest mountain in such perfect weather was the icing on the cake. We all love walking, and it was great to be able to do this together.”

The pic was taken by a passer-by.

PEN Y FAN BRECON BEACONS Denzel Aiyegbusi (5) from Ruislip, proudly displaying the Young Mountaineer award he received for completing an adventure that included climbing the highest mountain in southern Britain. The photo was taken by his mum Zeta.

JULY 2015 TRAIL 23

Go to the mountains Do all the best routes!

BRITAIN’S

GREA

THE RUNNERS UP...

25 Goatfell Horseshoe (Arran, Scotland) 24 Moel Siabod, Daear Ddu ridge (Snowdonia, Wales) 23 Great Gable Traverse (Lake District, England) 20 Coniston Fells (Lake District, England) 19 Edale Horseshoe (Peak District, England) 18 Kentmere Horseshoe (Lake District, England) 15 Ben Nevis via the CMD Arête (Highlands, Scotland) 14 Langdale Pikes (Lake District, England) 13 Newlands Round (Lake District, England)

26 TRAIL JULY 2015

25 years 1990 2015

ALKS AS VOTED BY YOU!

In March we asked you to choose your favourite mountain route. To celebrate Trail's 25th anniversary the results are in, and the countdown starts here....

Snowdon and Crib Goch from Y Lliwedd.

How did this route rank? Read on... © SEBASTIAN WASEK / ALAMY

22 Bidean nam Bian via the Lost Valley (Highlands, Scotland) 21 Carnedd Dafydd /Carnedd Llewelyn (Snowdonia, Wales) 17 Pen y Fan and Cribyn (Brecon Beacons, Wales) 16 Ring of Steall – Mamores (Highlands, Scotland) 12 Cadair Idris circuit (Snowdonia, Wales) 11 Scafell Pike Corridor Route (Lake District, England) READ ON FOR THE TOP 10...

JULY 2015 TRAIL 27

Go Lake District Do everything!

42 TRAIL JULY 2015

25 years 1990 2015

THE ULTIMATE WALKING WEEKEND

How can you make your next mountain adventure the most memorable of your life? Turn over to fnd out!

WORDS OLI REED PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

JULY 2015 TRAIL 43

Go back in time Do get nostalgic!

Trail threw an expendable stafer in a fancy fridge, sucked out the oxygen... and left him there for fve hours. In pursuit of a high mountain experience, Simon Ingram still can't feel parts of his little fnger.

2006

DO YOU REMEMBER THE Take an indie band, a Berghaus jacket, a scowl... and suddenly every wannabe rocker/scally needed a quality waterproof.

1996

Trail Mountaineer section regular Ian Parnell missed his copy deadline. His excuse: “I've just climbed Everest.“ A hasty rebrief later resulted in a rather tasty scoop. Late is late, though...

2006

In 2004, on the eve of his fnal push to be the frst Brit to climb every 8000m mountain on Earth, Trail had Alan Hinkes professionally psychoanalysed to fnd out if he was any diferent from normal people. The result?

Alan was 'statistically unusual’. Interesting...

2004

50 TRAIL JULY 2015

In the company of Everest summiteers Alan Hinkes and Bonita ta Norris, Trail forged a new route around the Snowdonian haunts of the 1953 Everest team and uncovered some gems that bridged the 4,600 mile gap far more convincingly than we frst thought...

2013

25 years 1990 2015

Because making your own way is a big part of what Trail has always been about, in 2004 our DIY long distance path – Barmouth to Bala, or ’B to B’ – showed that the beauty of being exploratory is you can make a path to ft your own personal time contraints.

2004

ONE...

The very y frst one! July J y 1990 saw Trail Walker (as it was called then) hit the shelves. Twenty fve years later, the mountains have changed little... but the clothing, the tastes and the (ahem) survival apparel has. And thank goodness for that.

1990

In tribute to Trail's often overlooked spine message, we celebrate 25 years of living for the outdoors in occasionally history-making ways...

A huge response to a Trail and Porters’ Progress UK appeal to provide snowblind Nepali porters with sunglasses saw hundreds of pairs winging their way to the Khumbu. Your response amazed us. The pictures sent from Nepal made us cry.

2008

An interview in which Joe Simpson, memorably photographed by Trail's Tom Bailey, swore. A lot.

2001

An appeal to reunite mountain-stranded gloves with their other halves also resulted in some impromptu abandonment analysis. If you're English, right-handed and made of wool... watch out.

2007

The dramatic and mysterious Jetboil, snifed out by a transatlantic stafer, makes its British debut. Cue near hysteria, UK distribution deal, immortality. You're welcome!

2004

J ULY 2015 TRAIL 51 JULY 59 9

Go NW Scotland Do Beinn Alligin

58 TRAIL JULY 2015

Descending from the summit of Tom na Gruagaich (922m) towards Sgurr Mhor (986m). Both Munros are bagged on the classic circuit of Beinn Alligin, along with the devilishly exposed scramble of the Horns of Alligin on the right.

THE JEWEL OF

TORRIDON

Canada? New Zealand? Outer Space? All wrong – this photo was taken in Scotland, and standing in this spot is easier than you think. Turn over to fnd out how...

WORDS OLI REED PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

JULY 2015 TRAIL 59

Go North Yorkshire Do climb a little giant The distinctive 320m pyramid of Roseberry Topping. Certainly looks like a mountain, but...

64 TRAIL JULY 2015

WHAT MAKES A

MOUNTAIN How a quick walk up a shapely Yorkshire shorty is the perfect way to celebrate the highest places in the land.

WORDS SIMON INGRAM PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

A

question: at what point does a hill become a mountain? Nobody knows.

People think they do. You’ll find all sorts of funny ideas on the internet. Contrary to these, making a mountain is not just a simple matter of numbers or words. Say ‘hill’ and it conjures a very different image to ‘mountain’, and on all sorts of levels. It’s about identity.

The perfect case in point is Roseberry Topping.

On paper, things don’t look good. It sounds like baking.

It’s in Yorkshire. And its summit stands 320m above sea -level. If Ben Nevis is high enough to headbutt you, t’Topping is chewing your shoelaces. And yet this is perhaps one of the greatest mountains (and I use that term highly deliberately) in Britain.

Join us on an ascent of it – go on, it will only take 40 minutes – as we discuss that most fundamental matter: what does it mean to be a mountain?

Height

seems the most obvious criterion. There is a school of thought that says in deciding what makes a mountain, height is the only factor that needs considering. When Mynydd Graig Goch in Snowdonia was remeasured eight years ago it ‘grew’ from 1,998ft to 2,000ft, and in so doing garnered national headlines like ‘Survey turns a hill into a mountain’. So that’s easy, then: the point at which a hill ends and a mountain begins is 2,000ft, or 610m. So Helm Crag, Haystacks and Hard Knott are hills; meanwhile The Cheviot, Kinder Scout and the highest points of Dartmoor are mountains. Right? Hmmm.

Anyone who sat through the re-surveying thriller The Englishman Who Went Up a Hill But Came Down

�

JULY 2015 TRAIL 65

GET A VANGO RUCKSACK & HEADTORCH WORTH £35!

WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE TO TRAIL Enjoy a year of Trail magazine from £52* PLUS a Vango Trail 25 rucksack and a Vango 10 LED Headtorch WORTH £35.

* When you pay by direct debit

The Vango Trail 25 is a great rucksack for walkers or for everyday use, featuring durable fabrics and large side pockets.

The Vango 10 LED Headtorch meanwhile ofers 16 lumens of light via three modes. It has a pivoting head and an adjustable headstrap, and takes 3 x AAA batteries (not included).

Simon Ingram, editor

With a print subscription to Trail magazine you beneft from: ■ TWO quality gifts, worth £35 ■ Having each copy delivered directly to your door ■ Saving against shop prices ■ Saving 50% of an annual YHA membership and 10% of any bookings made through the YHA website Alternatively, get the same deal on digital or upgrade to a package subscription – available at www.greatmagazines.co.uk/trail

PLUS ACCESS TO 1,000 FREE ROUTES

and unlimited printable OS mapping for a year**!

Search and download over 1,000 Trail Routes, print personalised Ordnance Survey maps and directions, plan your adventures and share online. The digital mapping subscription covers the whole UK, so create a lifetime of walking adventures and save them to your GPS or phone. ** A TrailZilla subscription is only available with a digital subscription if you purchase it through Great Magazines.

CALL 01858 438884 AND QUOTE GBAA Lines open p 8am-9.30pm p ((Mon-Fri), ), 8am-4pm p ((Sat). ) Overseas readers p please call +44 1858 438828

Subscribe!

GIFT WORTH

£35!

CLICK WWW.GREATMAGAZINES.CO.UK/TRAIL Terms & conditions Subscriptions will start with the next available issue. This ofer closes on 15 July 2015 and is available on UK orders only. This ofer cannot be used in conjunction with any other ofer. The minimum term is for 13 issues (1 year) when paying by direct debit and will continue at this ofer price every 13 issues thereafter unless you are notifed otherwise. You will not receive a renewal reminder, and the direct debit payments will continue to be taken unless you tell us otherwise. Cost from landlines for 01 numbers per minute are (approximately) 2p to 10p. Cost from mobiles per minute are (approximately) 10p to 40p. Costs vary depending on the geographical location in the UK. You may get free calls to some numbers as part of your call package – please check with your phone provider. Order lines open 8am-9.30pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-4pm (Sat). UK orders only. For overseas prices call phone +44 1858 438888. Calls may be monitored or recorded for training purposes. YHA discount can be redeemed online only, for non-direct debit purchases and new members only. Expiry date is 29 February 2016. Membership is for a 12 month period and any renewals will be at full price. Valid at all hostels excluding Enterprise. Subscriber verifcation will be done on the subscriber’s postcode, which will be done after your application/booking is complete. Discount codes will be included in your confrmation letter/email. For full terms and conditions visit www.greatmagazines.co.uk/ofer-terms-and-conditions

EXPERT ADVICE: PLAIN & SIMP SIMPLETM

Graham Thompson GT – Trail’s technical editor for over 25 years – is our walking gear guru.

NEVER FORGET ANYTHING!

Make sure nothing vital ever gets left out of your rucksack.

S

urely we’ve all done it? Reached into our pack and realised we’ve left our lunch/gloves/sleeping bag in the kitchen/in the car/under the bed? Some items are more important than others; but it’s rarely good to discover that anything you intended to take with you has been left behind. Here are fve suggestions to help ensure you never set of into the hills inadvertently under-equipped...

Make a list

Rob Johnson MIC Rob is an international expedition leader and mountain instructor.

Lyle Brotherton Navigation expert Lyle is one of the world’s leading authorities on search and rescue.

Jeremy Ashcroft Trail’s mountaineering editor Jeremy has a lifetime of outdoors experience.

This is probably the most straightforward and easyto-follow option. Using a pen and paper (or if you’re digitally inclined, a print-outable spreadsheet) make a list in advance of all the kit you might need on your trek, and tick it of as you pack it. The advantage of having a saved version of such a list is that you can add things to it if you ever discover something else you don’t want to forget next time. You can also create diferent lists for summer, winter, multiday or short trips – so your backpack is always packed perfectly.

Lay your kit out If you spread all your gear out on the foor prior to putting it in your pack, rather than stufng it in one item at a time, you’ve got a better chance of spotting if anything’s missing. If you use this method regularly, your brain will get better at spotting forgotten kit – a bit like one of those memory games where an item is removed from a tray and you have to spot what’s gone.

To give yourself a helping hand, take a photo of all your

kit together, and use the image as an aide mémoire for future packing.

Pack perfectly Another way to spot if something’s been missed out is to get in the routine of always packing your rucksack in the same way. If a map and compass always go in one pocket, if your frst aid kit always goes into your pack frst, if your trekking poles are always strapped to the left side of your pack, it’ll soon become habit. Then, if you do overlook something, that same niggle in the back of your mind that asks if you’ve left the gas on when you’re halfway up a hill will kick in and cause you to recheck your kit.

Buddy check Scuba divers do it, climbers do it, and there’s no reason why walkers shouldn’t do it too: the buddy check. It does rely on you having a buddy to check and be checked by, but the premise is simple: you take it in turns to ask each other if you’ve got a particular item of kit until you’ve listed all your gear and are happy that you both have everything

you need. There is a faw with this, though. If you’ve both forgotten the same thing, neither of you might remember to see if the other one has it.

Choose your buddy wisely.

Scenario check If you don’t have a buddy (sad) or don’t trust the buddy you have (sadder) this is a check you can do on your own.

Either in your mind or out loud (you’re alone, so nobody will judge), run through potential scenarios and ensure you have the kit to deal with them: ‘It’s raining’ (have I got my hard shell?); ‘It’s cold’ (have I got my hat and gloves?); ‘I’ve fallen and can’t get up’ (have I got my phone and a shelter?); ‘I’ve met my dream man/ woman” (have I got my breath mints?). That kind of thing...

TOM BAILEY

YOUR EXPERTS

Make a list in advance of all the kit you might need

Ticks Vs Midges Stealth The minuscule tick lies invisibly in wait for you to brush past, silently clambering onto your clothes and towards your skin. Midges swarm around your face and in your hair.

You swing wildly at them and they don’t care.

TICKS WIN!

Nuisance Because of their covert parasitic nature, it’s easy to forget about ticks, so their impact is reduced. Midges, on the other hand, are hugely intrusive and can ruin a walk. Or a camp. Or a pub lunch.

Or Scotland.

MIDGES WIN!

Prevalence Ticks need vegetation to hide in and animals to feed from; both are often plentiful in mountain areas. The Scottish midge has crossed the border; it’s a menace in hilly areas across the UK, where it wreaks havoc.

IT’S A TIE

Danger Midge bites are itchy and irritating and horrible. Tick bites can transmit various diseases, including the deeply unpleasant and potentially fatal Lyme disease.

Midges are nasty. Ticks can be killers.

TICKS WIN!

Repellence Insect repellent and limb-covering clothing is the best way to combat either of these blighters. Add in a pair of gaiters to keep the ticks of your legs or a natty net hat to keep the midges out of your eyes.

IT’S A TIE

Eurgh factor From www.bada-uk.org: “Causing irritation to the tick may result in it regurgitating its gut contents into the bloodstream of its host. These fuids may contain disease-causing organisms.”

There’s no contest.

TICKS WIN!

RESULT When it comes to spoiling a day in the hills, midges lead the way. But in terms of long-term health risks and all-round unpleasantness, ticks are far more abhorrent. Why, God, why?

TICKS WIN!

JULY 2015 TRAIL 75

Gear

BUYING KIT? THIS IS YOUR GUIDE...

HOT NEW KIT This month's spanking new objects of outdoor desire

SNUGPAK THE CAVE £496 Hot because: Uber-light wild camping is fne (we’re big fans), but sometimes it’s nice to have more comfortable and sociable digs. The Cave is a sturdy y 4-person (read: 3-people plus kit) geodesic tent weighing under 5kg – not too bad when the load is shared. It’s the details that make the diference, and we loved that The Cave comes with great pegs, the poles are colour-coded to simplify assembly, it has plenty of storage pockets, and the inner is black so

you don’t get that rude frst-light awakening. In fact, during a laptop screening of Valley Uprising while camping p in Ogwen, the experience was positively c cinematic. a Being a caveman just got cool.

We s say: y “Shared with a couple of mates, some ale and one o e or two home comforts (pillows, anyone?), t s iss tthe kind of tent that’ll help you fall in love this with t ca camping.” Ben Weeks, news & features writer www.snugpak.com

ZAMBERLAN AIROUND GTX RR £145

NORDISK OSCAR £190 Hot because: We were initially a little concerned to learn that this sleeping bag is stufed full of recycled pet, but it turns out that it’s actually PET (polyethylene terephthalate) flling from recycled plastic bottles, so Mr Tiddles and Nibbles the hamster remain unharmed by the making of this bag. Aside from its green credentials (although when fully removed from its built-in stufsack, it’s more of a tasteful mustard colour) the Oscar is also

80 TRAIL JULY 2015

conveniently lightweight (approx 500g). It’s sold as a 3-season bag, although with a comfort rating of 10 deg C it will beneft from an additional liner during the cooler months of spring and autumn in the UK. We say: “Small, comfortable and light, the Oscar is a great sleeping bag for taking on long distance walks when packing light is essential.”

Hannah James, editorial assistant www.nordisk.eu

Hot because: What are these? Approach shoes?

Super-light hiking footwear? Trail-running trainers? According to Zamberlan they’re all this and more, including suitable mountain biking footwear. But what Trail readers need to know is this: the new Gore-Tex Surround system makes the Airounds exceptionally ventilated and yet reliably waterproof. For valley walks or even mountain routes for the strong-ankled among you, these are a breath of fresh air compared to traditional leather boots.

They’re also equipped with something called a ‘jazz gusset’. No, we’ve no idea either.

We say: Although not year-round-appropriate, the Airounds make perfect sense s for the occasionally damp British summer. m www.zamberlan.com

Inside BEST 1-PERSON TENTS 82

ALPKIT DRYDOCK 50 CARGO DUFFEL £55 Hot because: First things frst. Of course the price is phenomenal p value; this is Alpkit. p Would we expect p t anything else? Well, yes: we also expect quality from m them, and again they’ve delivered. The word ‘bombproof’ them, proo could have been invented for this 50 litre weatherproof p oo dufel. But just j being g tough g isn’t enough, g so the Drydock ydoc ofers removable shoulder straps p for more comfortable b carrying y g plus daisy-chain y webbing g for securing g the b bag to roof racks or other precarious p transit locations. And if you tend to travel with the kitchen sink, there’s a 100 you 0 litre tr waterproof version too (£70).

We say: Pack P up, strap up and roll – this is luggage gg g forr adventures on a global scale. www.alpkit.com

WATE

RPROOF JACKETS

86

WATER PURIFIERS 90

ICEBREAKER COOL-LITE SPHERE SHORT SLEEVE CREWE £55 Hot because: Cool-Lite is Icebreaker’s new warm-weather fabric. Using a blend of merino (65%), nylon (15%) and plant-based Tencel fbres (20%), Cool-Lite shares pure merino’s odour resistance but is cooler, faster-drying and currently Icebreaker’s lightest fabric. It’s a natural choice for a range of summer-orientated base layers, which also include long-sleeved, polo shirt and women’s versions.

We say: The benefts of merino in a lighter tee can only be a good o thing come summer. www.icebreaker.com w

Kit for comfy camping

92

First test: Regatta tent

94

What’s in your rucksack? 97 Team Trail’s kit rated

98

Win great outdoor gear 101

JULY 2015 TRAIL 81

BEST BUDGET FOR YOUR

TESTER PROFILE Graham Thompson Technical editor Height 5ft 11½in Size large

WATERPROOF JACKETS Choosing a waterproof jacket weighing less than 350g is a great way to make climbing hills less tiring.

Here’s Trail’s pick of the best, by price.

HOOD The hood should ft snugly so it doesn’t blow of, and it must move with your head so you can see where you are going. The peak may become bent if the jacket is stashed in a rucksack, so look for a wired one that can be easily reshaped to allow good vision even in the wind.

POCKETS Big pockets are great for storing maps, guidebooks and gloves, but they can also be used to protect your hands from wind and rain. Rucksack belts obscure access to some pockets so make sure they are well-positioned to avoid this problem.

ZIPS Normal zips used on jackets are not waterproof so they are usually covered by an external single or double stormfap; however these increase weight so they are often omitted on lightweight jackets. Waterresistant zips are commonly used on high-priced jackets but these aren’t waterproof either. As these zips may leak, they are often ftted with an internal fap that is designed to channel away any water than enters this area.

TEST AND PHOTOGRAPHS GRAHAM THOMPSON

VENTILATION

FABRICS On the high-priced jackets you can expect to fnd that the fabrics used are the most waterproof and breathable available, and while there may be small diferences between them this will be difcult to notice on the hill and your comfort will often be dictated by features such as hood, pocket and sleeve design. In contrast lower-priced jackets generally feature fabrics that are less breathable and may be less durably waterproof in the long term too.

Even the best waterproof and breathable fabrics allow condensation to form, so it’s important that you can ventilate a jacket. A front zip can be used for venting, as can underarm zips (also called pit zips), while mesh linings in pockets can also increase airfow through the jacket. However, mesh pockets may also allow water to pass through and into the jacket.

Lightweight jackets often have mesh-lined pockets but they may not be ideal in really wet weather.

WEIGHT Manufacturers often state an average weight across all sizes, or the weight of a medium/M jacket. All the values given here are for jackets in size men’s large (L), as weighed at the time of this test.

MAGAZINE

U UNDER

£90/301g (L)

APPROVED

£150 £ 50

m n

Regatta Vapourspeed www.regatta.com

m n

£110/321g (L)

Montane Atomic

m n

Vaude Casson

www.montane.co.uk

www.vaude.com

+ pockets; body length + access; price condensation management; pockets low mesh-lined pockets may allow – so access not ideal with some rucksacks – water through price; hood with wired peak; sealed

£150/310g (L)

hood with wired peak; good pocket

+ pockets; pit zips for venting mesh-lined pockets can let – water through

hood with wired peak; 2 very large chest

FEATURES

A weight of 301g (size L) and a cost of just £90 are the main attractions here. For that weight and price you get a 2.5-layer fabric that cannot boast the performance of pricier jackets. There are two main pockets, without mesh linings, so they won’t leak easily, while the hood gets a wired peak. Not outstanding but excellent at this price. 4/5

Made from Pertex Shield fabric, which boasts good waterproofness and breathability but isn’t as good as Pertex Shield + used in the Montane Minimus (page 88), although it does feel more robust. The two mesh-lined chest pockets would be better if sealed, but they have good access; and the hood gets a wired peak with face and volume adjustment. 4/5

The 2.5-layer Ceplex Advanced fabric gains Bluesign approval for its environmental benefts, but condensation control is not quite as good as 3-layer fabrics. There are two main pockets, pit zips and a hood with a wired peak.

It has a decent weight of 310g too. The main drawback is the two pockets: they’re meshlined so they may allow water through.

4/5

SIZE

It comes in men’s size S-XXXL and women’s 8-20, a wider range than many jackets. Also it is longer than most and just about covered my bum. The cufs and hem do ride up a bit when the arms are raised, but the hood fts and moves really well with the head and has a wired peak to protect the face.

4/5

Available in men’s sizes S-XXL and for women in sizes 8-16. The body is typical of all these lightweight jackets in many ways, but with a slightly closer ft. The cufs and hem move a bit when the arms are raised but not too much.

The hood is exceptional with a great ft and superior movement to allow easy vision. 4/5

In men’s sizes S-XXL and women’s 34-44, the Casson’s length and ft are similar to other lightweight jackets’. But the hem and cufs ride up a little when raising your arms. The hood is great though, with just a little cinch of the volume adjuster needed for a great ft and easy movement with the head.

4/5

COMFORT

The Isotex 10,000 fabric feels a bit clammier than others (it lacks the breathability fgures of jackets twice its price, and there is no liner to soak up any condensation). But the pockets are sealed, so they keep you dry. It covers more of your body too, so in some ways it is comfer than others.

3/5

This version of Pertex Shield is stifer than Pertex Shield + fabric used on the Montane Minimus, so while not as light, it is warmer and comfer. Condensation builds up on the inside more than with Pertex Shield + though. The pockets are mesh-lined so good for venting, but water can creep in through them.

3/5

This 2.5-layer fabric feels a little clammy and doesn’t control condensation as well as 3layer fabrics. The pit zips ease condensation build-up and the pockets are mesh for more airfow, but that’s no good in the rain of course, so you’ll need to keep those pockets closed to stay dry.

3/5

IN USE

The length is a bonus and the hood is excellent. But the two main pockets are very low so rucksack hipbelts can easily obscure access (although as this jacket is quite long that isn’t always the case).

The two main pockets are map-sized, but a chest map pocket would be good. 3/5

The weight is good and the two pockets large enough for OS maps while allowing access if wearing a rucksack with a hipbelt. The hood is ideal for hillwalking thanks to that wired peak and great movement. My niggles? The pockets are mesh-lined, so water can creep in, and condensation can be a problem. 4/5

The weight, hood and large pockets that can be easily accessed when wearing a rucksack with a hipbelt set this jacket apart from many other s. But slightly better movement in the sleeves would be ideal, and having sealed rather than mesh pockets would be a bonus in the wet. But better than most. 4/5

VALUE

This was the best jacket received below £100 and while not perfect it competes well with higher-priced options.

5/5

The Atomic’s price is very good and as it has a great hood and large easy-to-access pockets, this is the best option here under £150. 5/5

This is the best jacket around this price when weight and performance are taken into account, so good value.

4/5

If your budget is under £100 then this is an excellent lightweight jacket for hillwalking, but if you pay more you do get a better product.

I’d like the pockets not to be mesh; but apart from that this is an excellent lightweight jacket for hillwalkers who can’t extend their budget beyond its price tag.

A reasonable jacket for hillwalking and a good price, with the main drawback being mesh pockets that can let water through.

VERDICT

3.8/5

4.0/5

3.8/5

JULY 2015 TRAIL 87

ROUTE 3 JULY 2015

Snowdonia

GRADE 1 SCRAMBLE

10km/6¼ miles 6 hours

ROUTE STATS

Y Garn

Looking up at the route from the walk-in. Castell y Geifr is the rocky rib on the left-hand skyline.

Y Garn isn’t famous for being a scramblers’ mountain; but the one line it does have is a real beauty. Tom Hutton leads the way.

U

nlike its spiky Glyderau neighbours, Y Garn is a smooth, friendly-looking mountain, appearing a little like a giant armchair high above the lovely Cwm Idwal. With less rock than its peers, it also has less scrambling; but what it lacks in quantity, it more than makes up for in quality with its exposed East Ridge – a single, top-notch Grade II that exploits an unlikely line of weakness in the magnifcent rocky prow of Castell y Geifr – the Castle of the Goats.

This is a step up in difculty and seriousness from the more typical Ogwen scrambles. The moves are no harder than the typical lines followed on Tryfan’s North Ridge or Bristly Ridge, but whereas there’s always an alternative on those classic Grade 1s, there isn’t much option here; and the crux provides a couple of awkward problems that need a bit of

Tackling the rocky crest.

thinking about, and then a mix of delicacy and brawn to overcome. It’s sadly all over too quickly; but once up there are no fewer than three quality summits to tick before a

little more hands-on fun on a descent of Y Gribin. Or, if you fancy an even longer excursion, you can always descend Bristly Ridge and make a crossing of Tryfan.

JULY 2015 TRAIL 113

TOM HUTTON

Strenuousness ●● ● ●● Navigation ●● ● ●● Technicality ●● ●●● Welsh 3000ers 3 Trail 100s 1

Snowdonia

ROUTE 3 JULY 2015

Always take a map out with you on the hill

10km/6¼ miles 6 hours ROUTE INFO Conway

Liverpool Rhyl Bodelwyddan

Betws-y-Coed

Llangollen

Barmouth twyth

Distance 10km (6¼ miles) Total ascent 1100m Time 6 hours Start/fnish Idwal Cottage (SH649604) Nearest town Bethesda Terrain scrambling over rocky ribs and arêtes; mainly Grade I, but one committed section of Grade 2.

Then a high mountain walk and an easy scramble back down

ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPPING © CROWN COPYRIGHT. CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. LICENCE MEDIA089/12

Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; Harvey Superwalker Snowdonia North; British Mountain Maps (1:40,000): Snowdonia Accommodation Youth Hostel in Ogwen Valley (Idwal Cottage) 0845 371 9744. Plas Curig hostel in Capel Curig (01690) 720225. Camping in Ogwen Valley (www. tryfanwales.co.uk) Public transport regular buses Capel Curig - Llyn Ogwen.

Trains to Betws-y-Coed 08457 484950, www. traveline-cymru.info Guidebooks Climbs and Easy Scrambles in Snowdonia by Jon Sparks, Tom Hutton and Jerry Rawson, pb Greystone Tourist info Betws-yCoed (01690) 710426

GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE!

SH649604 From the car ca park, take the main cobbled co path up towards Cwm Cw Idwal but after a few paces turn right into a deep gorge known as ‘‘Tin Can Alley’ – an old qua quarrying experiment. Continue experimen up out of th the gorge then break right at the top to follow f a steep secti section out SCRAMBLE onto f fatte atter ground.

Now keep ahead a on a mix of vagu vague boggy paths and n newly laid stone paths path until you come to a sstile. Cross and continue ahead a to drop to a beach on the shores of Llyn Idwal.

Idwal Turn right to walk around aroun the shore and through throug a gate to continue along a the western banks ba to cross a small stream. strea Now bear right to right to make ma your way scramble onto diagonally across some a fne rocky wet ground groun to the foot of platform, with stunning the obvious obviou rocky rib to views over Cwm Idwal. the left of the t stream.

Bear left to follow the The fun starts here. rocky crest upwards until SH641597 its way is blocked by a Scramble steep step. Scramble onto Now scramble straight up this, and continue for a the faces of a succession couple of metres to the of outcrops, or fanking foot of a steep sloping them on one of many ramp that forms the crux faint paths that lead up of the route. There are through the heather. high holds, and the wall to There are one or two quite your left can be pressed clean lines on great rock, against, but most of the but if anything looks too work is getting your feet much for you, at this up. Once beyond this, stage there’s always a continue to a small way around it. Continue platform where you need straight up until you run to make an awkward out of rock on a bilberrystep over the edge of a covered shoulder. Now recumbent fake. There’s break left slightly to the a lot of air beneath your foot of a prominent feet at this stage but it’s buttress – Castell y Geifr. not difcult. Clamber up This is too steep to tackle a few steps beyond this directly so follow a then break left back onto terrace left around to the the crest where the ridge foot of a stepped gully, peters into the heathermarked with a quartz covered hillside. Continue band. Climb this to a easily to the main path up headwall, and then bear to Y Garn’s summit.

In association with

www.viewranger. com/trail Route code TRL0714

114 TRAIL JULY 2015

1

3

2

GRADIENT PROFILE

METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL

Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200

MILES KILOMETRES

1 0 0

Y Garn

2 1

2

2

SCRAMBLE

SH630595 Now retrace your steps back to the top of the ridge and continue down the main path to Llyn y Cŵn.

Keep ahead via its eastern shore, and follow the obvious path up through the scree to the summit of Glyder Fawr. Continue to the jumbled blocks of the 1001m peak.

3

4

SH642579 Continue east, following the steep escarpment edge the whole time and enjoying fne views over Cwm Cneifon – also known as the Nameless Cwm, but this is not a translation: Cneifon actually refers to the clipping of sheep – presumably because the valley is quite sheltered.

Follow the edge east to a cairn that marks the top of Y Gribin Ridge – your descent route – but don’t

2

4

3

drop yet (unless you need to); instead, keep ahead to drop into Bwlch y Ddwy-Glyder, where a cairned route fanks the turrets of Castell y Gwynt and leads you to the summit of Glyder Fach.

5

SH656583 Scramble Now retrace your steps back to Castell y Gwynt – optional scrambling if you’ve energy left. Then relocate the top of Y Gribin Ridge. This time descend it, scrambling the steep sections where possible.

This eases onto a broad, grassy area known as the Football Pitch. Continue across this and you’ll meet a path that straddles the spur that divides Cwm Bochlwyd and Cwm Idwal.

Bear left onto this to drop awkwardly into Cwm Idwal. At the bottom, pick up the main path and follow to the car park.

Glyder Fach

4 3

5

4

Glyder Fawr

3 1

1

Finish

5 5

6

4

7

8

5

9

6

10

WALKS OF A LIFETIME

130 TRAIL JULY 2015

North-west Highlands

16.6km/10¼ miles 8 hours Dramatic morning light illluminates a cloud-capped An Teallach. © STEWART SMITH / ALAMY

An Teallach

Here’s a high-level mountaineering-style route with exposed and challenging scrambling, as recommended by Jeremy Ashcroft.

JULY 2015 TRAIL 131

32 pages of unforgettable overnight adventures

25 ways to

From luxury to lunatic!

25

WAYS TO STAY OUT ALL NIGHT

Starting in luxury, ending up rooÆess beneath the stars: here are 25 ways for a walker to avoid their own bed…

1 HOTEL

© STEVE HARLING / ALAMY

Few experiences can compete with that moment when, after a day on the hill, the weary walker lowers themself into a hot bath and exhales.

And for this perfect moment to be at its indulgent best, the surroundings need to be just so – ideally within the setting of a country house hotel.

It’s important to bear in mind that not all of these establishments welcome wet and muddy walkers, so choose carefully. On our travels, we’ve encountered a few enlightened places with a down-to-earth approach to mucky hikers. Here you’ll find a relaxed attitude to dress codes and a flexible stance on mealtimes.

The best examples have an earthy hikers’ bar and a more sophisticated bar and restaurant offering up a feast to replace the energy expended during the day. We’re talking roaring fires in winter, local ales and hearty food.

And when it comes to the rooms, we’re looking for big comfy beds and deep baths – there are times when a shower simply doesn’t cut it.

THREE DOWN-TO-EARTH HIKERS’ HOTELS IN WONDERFUL WALKING COUNTRY ● Pen-y-gwryd Hotel, Nant Gwynant, Snowdonia – Nestling under Snowdon’s eastern flank, this is where members of the 1953 Everest expedition trained. ● The Bridge Hotel, Buttermere, Lake District – Hiding out in a fine Cumbrian valley, it’s a great base from which to explore the Lakes.

RICHARD FAULKS

2 B&B

4 STAY OUT ALL NIGHT

A walker-friendly B&B is often the best value and safest bet for a short break in walking country. The key towns in the Lakes and Dales have a huge selection of guest houses, especially outside the summer season.

They also make ideal stopovers on long distance walks, with many out-of-the-way places in the Pennines reliant on walkers for regular business and thus familiar with their needs.

Look for evidence of walkerfriendly amenities such as a drying room, options for a packed lunch and lifts if you’re on a long-distance walk.

If you’re looking for an off-peak midweek deal, you’ll often get a better price by calling the B&B direct rather than going through a ‘late deal’ site.

● The Monsal Bridge Hotel, near Bakewell, Derbyshire – A Peak District icon nestling at the head of one of Derbyshire’s prettiest dales, with direct access to the Monsal Trail and White Peak country.

Find more walker-friendly hotels at www.walkersarewelcome.org.uk or www.lfto.com/wewelcomewalkers

3 WALKER-FRIENDLY B&BS IN GREAT WALKING COUNTRY ● Number Five Bridge Street, Hay-on-Wye, Herefordshire – An elegant townhouse in the heart of this beautiful town; surrounded by amazing walking. ● Braeriach Guest House, Kingussie, Inverness-shire – A lovely country retreat with amazing views over the Spey valley to the Cairngorms. ● A Great Escape Guesthouse, Swanage, Dorset – Individual accommodation beside the sea with a contemporary twist.

3 COTTAGE

If you’re with family or friends, renting a cottage is probably the easiest and most civilised way to stay in the outdoors. Holiday cottages have become one of the boom industries in recent times, and now pretty much every National Park has a range of rental options, from chic townhouses in the honeypots of Keswick and Fort William to remote farmhouses on the slopes of Snowdon or in the middle of Dartmoor. The advantages are ease and independence; you will have your own living room, kitchen, bedrooms, bathrooms, TV, Wi-Fi, a cabinet of

books, games and DVDs – all you need to do is bring food. It’s a great idea to take a slow cooker; then you can set off a casserole or goulash during breakfast, and return later to a cottage that smells incredible and dish up instantly. It’s one of the costlier ways to go on holiday, but if you’re sharing with friends or with another family, it makes great economic sense.

A mixed dynamic of grandparents, kids and cousins can make it more fun, and means you can divide into teams for different walks or activities – and everyone sleeps well afterwards.

TOM BAILEY

25 WAYS TO STAY OUT ALL NIGHT

TOM BAILEY

NICK HALLISSEY

SNOWDONIA TOURIST SERVICES

THREE FANTASTIC COTTAGES TO TRY THIS SUMMER

GHYLL BANK

RHYD DDU FARM COTTAGE

NORTH LEES HALL

Two cottages sitting side by side near Little Town in Newlands Valley.

The path to Cat Bells is outside the gate, and it’s great for accessing the Newlands and Coledale fells: www.keswickcottages.co.uk

This farm cottage sits by itself on the slopes of Snowdon, close to the start of the Rhyd-Ddu Path and Welsh Highland Railway, and has great views across to the Nantlle Ridge: www.sts-holidays.co.uk

Okay, so ‘cottage’ stretches it a bit; but this crenellated tower on the slopes of Stanage Edge offers the same experience, just with fourposter beds and a spectacular roof terrace: www.vivat-trust.org

TOM BAILEY

4 COUNTRY PUB

Wasdale Head Inn, Wasdale, Lake District There are many wonderful pubs to stay at in the British countryside of course, but we thought we would devote this entry to one that’s the archetype for all of them. The Wasdale Head Inn has been the haunt of outdoor types for more than a century. Nestling at the feet of Great Gable and the Scafells, this remote watering hole has been welcoming walkers since it opened in the early 1800s. Early exponents of British alpinism often spent their Christmases here, and the 1953 Everest expedition team did much of their winter training in the encircling hills. Today, the Wasdale Head is a base camp for climbing some of the Lake District’s most challenging peaks.

Head here and you’ll soon be tracing routes on tatty OS Explorer maps in the atmospheric Ritson’s Bar and swapping routes with fellow hikers like a seasoned old pro.

The classic walk is the Scafell Pike ascent, but there are dozens of walking options direct from the door.

Food is served from noon-8.30pm daily; choose from highlights like Cumbrian meat antipasti, or local cheeses with pear chutney and pickled walnuts. Comfy double rooms from £118 B&B. 019467 26229, www.wasdale.com STAY OUT ALL NIGHT 5