LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals September 2013
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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2 0 1 3
skin
VOLUME 28
Compassionate Touch
Medicine and Esthetics 30 Common Sense 34 Provisions for Quality Patient Care 38 Global Skin and Skin Cancer 42 Skin Care and the Cancer Patient 46 Oncology Esthetics 50 Skin News 54
healing through lomilomi page 74
spa
Oncology Massage 58 A Complex Complication 66 Spa Specialized Treatments 70 Compassionate Touch 74 Spa News 78
Common Sense guide to oncology esthetics page 34
N U M BE R 9
organic & wellness Radiation to Radiant Offering Care and Support 102 A Healthy Culture 105 Organic & Wellness News 108
Brand Loyalty? or location loyalty? page 94
101
A Healthy Culture
business
Renew Your Menu, Expand Your Income! 81 Marketing Oncology Esthetics 82 Cause Marketing Make the Change Brand Loyalty? Silent Sabotage Biz News
a happy and fit work environment page 105
86 90 94 97 99
image
Chemo and Lashes 111 Nail Care and Chemo 112 Warts 116 Brow and Lash Restoration 119 Journey of Joy 120 Image News 122
extras
From the Editor 6 Spa of the Month: St. Vincent’s Spa One Nineteen 12 Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa 23 Comfort and Soothe 60 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers’ Index 130
Cover
courtesy of NIWEL
Nail Care and Chemo page 112
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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from the
EDITOR
T
The ultimate ATP synthesis.
HE SEPTEMBER EDITION OF LES NOUVELLES Esthétiques & Spa honors those whose lives have been touched by cancer. In this issue, we reveal the roles we can take in helping this special segment of our clientele in their healing and recovery process. This edition recognizes the upcoming Breast Cancer Awareness Month, a national collaboration of public service organizations, professionals and government agencies working together to educate the public on a disease that afflicts too many people. Many spas, therapists and product companies will participate in the 25th annual Breast Cancer Awareness Month, empowering women to take charge of their health. The good news is that with early detection at a localized stage, the survival rate for breast cancer is 98 percent! This encouraging statistic emphasizes the importance of scheduling regular clinical exams and mammograms, as well as doing monthly self-exams. As partners with health care providers, we often remind our clients to be screened for skin cancer, but are we offering a reminder about other areas of the body as well? Oncology esthetics is taking shape in the spa industry, and it is important to understand how to provide the specialized services and care that our clients need. The latest edition of LNE & Spa offers guidance on this issue. With a compassionate ear, gentle touch and genuine care, we can provide a healing sanctuary for oncology patients. As an industry, we offer peace, tranquility and wellness. We must understand the scope of our practice when we are offering oncology services. On a lighter note, we all understand that the best way to achieve true success in our careers is with quality education. The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa in beautiful Long Beach, CA on September 29th and 30th is the perfect place to expand your knowledge and find out about the latest innovations and trends in our industry. The exceptional speakers, classes, networking opportunities and vendors make the conference a phenomenal two-day event you will not want to miss! We are thrilled that we can partner with licensed estheticians and spa professionals who are serious about their careers and our industry. I look forward to seeing you in Long Beach! n Wishing you all health, happiness and success,
REV062813
—Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com
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Peel, Protect & Perfect your results
305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand
Give a peel that Gives a result for summer sun damaGe.
Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com
focus on protectinG your clients investment - their results. make perfectinG the skin an every day practice.
Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller denise@lneonline.com
AdvAnced rejuvenating concepts created by and for skin care professionals
Art Director Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com
3 simPle stePs to a more Profitable Practice
peel with purpose
Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Fougere ache@lneonline.com
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Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato
To learn more call 800 689-0499 or register online at ArcskincAre.com/sign-up Contributors
for your complementary information kit. Discover the science of skin rejuvenation.
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Gloria Coppola Mórag Currin Erika Frankel Su Gibson Karen Hodges Ben Johnson, M.D. Jennifer Linder, M.D. Ellie Malmin Tim Maurer
Janet McCormick Jean M. McLean Danne Montague-King Melissa Montalvo Antionette Muirhead Teri Pearman Cassandra Rafuse Robert Sachs Michelle Seiler-Tucker
Dori Soukup Pamela Springer Pamela Stellema David Suzuki Karym Urdaneta Ruth Werner Anne C. Willis Craig L. Ziering, D.O.
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #120 on reader service card
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SPA
OF THE MONTH
HEALTH AND HEALING ST. VINCENT’S SPA ONE NINETEEN BIRMINGHAM, AL by Jean M. McLean
I T I S A T Y P I CA L F R I DAY M O R N I N G AT ST. Vincent’s Spa One Nineteen in Birmingham, AL. A beaming bride and her bridesmaids giggle over pedicures. A hip replacement patient smiles throughout his post-physical therapy massage. An executive purchases a fragrance product as a gift. But it’s an unusual Friday for Felicia, who has anticipated her spa “reward day” since her mastectomy. Months ago, in this exact wellness complex, Felicia left her granddaughter to play in the child care area, took the elevator upstairs for her annual gynecology appointment, and then completed a seemingly routine mammogram amid the soothing ambiance of One Nineteen’s diagnostic suites. After indulging in a fruit smoothie at the Internet cafe, she considered a dip in the fitness pool, but instead decided to stroll into the spa to schedule a facial for the next week.
Felicia never had that facial. Her less-than-routine mammogram results led her instead to cancer treatments 12 miles away at St. Vincent Health System’s largest medical center, St. Vincent’s Birmingham. Today, Felicia is a survivor, though still fragile. Accom panied by supportive friends, she spends this Friday at a spa uniquely adaptable to her needs. Felicia is a fictional patient, due to One Nineteen’s privacy policies. But her profile is representative of the women that Susan Salter, M.D., refers to Spa One Nineteen. As a radiation oncologist for St. Vincent’s, Dr. Salter is not one of the physicians with offices at One Nineteen; she serves at the Health System’s Bruno Cancer Center, where Felicia would have received treatment. continues
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spa of the month|st. vincent’s spa one nineteen
“The spa is a very holistic component of what we do here, and very much in line with the body-mind-spirit emphasis of St. Vincent’s Health System.” And although Salter is regionally known for her dedication to eradicating cancers, strong advocacy for Key to the Cure and other breast cancer awareness efforts, she has also earned a reputation as a nurturer. She believes nurturing places and people can help healing. “Spa One Nineteen is a remarkable asset,” Salter explains. “I often encourage my breast cancer patients to do something good for themselves—to do something relaxing, or something that just makes them smile. When I recommend they visit Spa One Nineteen, I know they’ll have a lovely experience. I know they’ll be taken care of by the very capable staff.” That is because this spa is unlike any other in Birmingham’s overcrowded esthetics market. Envisioned by a faith-based health system with a holistic health history, the spa was designed as an essential element of this upscale suburban wellness center. The spa’s nature-inspired design infuses the building, resulting in a relaxed resort ambiance. Alabama landscape colors (earthy blues/greens, iron-enriched copper) flow throughout the facility as consistently as the system’s commitment to physical, emotional and spiritual health. Deemed a “community connector,” One Nineteen is regarded as a happy gathering place for its diverse public.
By the numbers • • • • • • • • •
$35 million: Total facility project cost at January 2005 opening 10,000: Spa square footage, out of the entire facility’s 154,645 square feet 20: Number of ways the boutique manager can show cancer patients how to tie a head scarf 10: Number of treatment rooms 6: Lanes in the adjacent fitness lap pool 5: Pedicure chairs 3: Nail stations 2: Locker rooms, baths, saunas, steam rooms, tea/waiting rooms 1: Vichy shower, wet room, couples’ suite
While champagne-accented couples’ massages are performed in the so-quiet spa, the gym might host children’s summer camp relay races. In the demonstration kitchen, a chef evokes laughter during his diabetes targeted cooking class. Some say that interconnection, referred to as “wellness integration” by St. Vincent’s executives, is fueled by the spa. Its serenity seems to ebb into One Nineteen’s curving lobby, where glass curtain walls offer two-story views of the adjacent 50,000 square foot fitness facility/rehabilitation area. An overhead running track, lap pool, heated saltwater therapy pool and whirlpool are tucked just beyond view. Architecture and interior design firm Earl Swensson Associates incorporated glass partitions and clerestories throughout the spa and other spaces, making it easy for clients to find their way to physicians’ offices, diagnostic suites and even the health education center. One Nineteen physicians like John Farley, M.D. of Bir mingham Internal Medicine Associates embrace the wellness integration concept. Dr. Farley, who also serves as the spa’s medical director, recommends spa services for patients who need medication-free stress relief or pain management. “The spa is a very holistic component of what we do here, and very much in line with the body-mind-spirit emphasis of St. Vincent’s Health System,” says Farley. “Stress reduction plays a huge role in fighting any disease, but especially something continues
Page 14 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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like cancer. At this spa, someone who has a colostomy bag won’t be embarrassed to get a massage, because we’re also a health care facility. The spa is another tool that enables us to treat not just the disease, but the whole patient.” That’s why someone like Felicia would be so welcome at Spa One Nineteen, says Hope House, R.N. The registered nurse is also a medically-trained massage therapist with a specialization in lymphedema. House is one of the spa specialists intent on providing an extraordinary experience for every client, particularly cancer patients. Although lymphatic massage can facilitate mastectomy recovery, it is not the only spa service adapted to breast cancer survivors. “As a breast cancer survivor who is recovering, we have to consider what type of treatment she is receiving,” House says, noting how treatment affects everything from skin texture to diet tolerances. “We want to be conscious of how radiation can cause sensitivity; they may even have burns. And chemotherapy is extremely toxic. Massage therapy can help remove those toxins, but if they’re in the middle of chemo, we are careful not to do anything to release those toxins and overload the system.”
“Massage therapy can help remove those toxins, but if they’re in the middle of chemo, we are careful not to do anything to release those toxins and overload the system.” Women who would most benefit from spa treatments may be too self-conscious to seek consults. But at One Nineteen, they know the luxuriously-appointed spa is staffed by health care providers who won’t flinch at their scars, and will anticipate every massage treatment concern related to their illness, from chemo-altered platelet counts to brittle bones. “And if they’re getting a facial, they would need to talk with an esthetician about certain medications that would affect skin sensitivity,” says House. With a pharmacist, dermatologist and other specialists a few steps away, there is no shortage of medical consults. Every spa client wants to feel good about how they look, according to spa manager Alexis Chimento. Makeup consultations, eyebrow tints and eyelash extensions are as popular with chemotherapy patients as they are with their friends. “This is a normal place, a place that accommodates someone who just wants her nails done, as well as a patient battling a disease,” says Chimento. “And we sell lots of scarves here. We can do a head wrap, and show them 20 ways to use scarves creatively. Coming here gives those women an opportunity to continues
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spa of the month|st. vincent’s spa one nineteen
If the side effects of her medications return suddenly—a spa staffer can quietly attend to her with a physician call or an unobtrusive wheelchair escort through a private exit. see that they’re getting better. It’s a place of healing. We lay hands on them through massage and even pedicures.” Chimento says the faith component “absolutely” plays into the tranquil atmosphere. She says that her background in skin care, boutique retail and public health perfectly prepared her for her position. “Not only are our staff members using a healing touch, but our clients open up about their concerns because they know they’re walking into a place that’s Christ-centered,” she explains. Although the facility happily hosts persons of every religion and no religion, clients often ask staff to pray for them. “Every associate can provide for that need,” says Chimento. Sensory pleasures abound. Textural elements—stacked stone, granite, fresh flowers and plush linens combine with natural and diffused light. Southern accents resonate with soft instrumental music. Wisps of fragrance filter from treatment rooms. Peppermints, flavored coffees, muffins and orangeinfused glass water dispensers in two client lounges supplement upon-request spa meals with seasonal themes. If it ever all gets too overwhelming for someone like Felicia— or if the side effects of her medications return suddenly—a spa staffer can quietly attend to her with a physician call or an unobtrusive wheelchair escort through a private exit. What each Felicia seeks most is a loving touch, say spa staffers. “Even women’s husbands may be afraid to touch them after they’ve been through breast cancer,” says House. “But continues
The mission A sign in St. Vincent’s One Nineteen’s lobby reads: “The Mission Made Me Do It.” Below, an evolving collection of photos displays the above-and-beyond service by St. Vincent’s associates. These associates say that their mission is inspired by the healing ministry of Jesus Christ. The System’s name is drawn from Parisian St. Vincent de Paul, who established the Daughters of Charity in 1633 to serve the poor. In 1898, the Daughters of Charity addressed the deplorable state of health care among Birmingham’s laborers, establishing what would become St. Vincent’s Health System. Part of the Catholic St. Louis-based Ascension Health, St. Vincent’s original commitment to holistic healing is continued through traditional and innovative measures. Each associate can recite St. Vincent’s core values: • Service of the poor • Reverence • Integrity • Wisdom • Creativity • Dedication Each staff member is challenged to find ways to express those values, whether by providing aromatherapy to a radiation patient or cheering on the exercise efforts of an obese teen. From initiating prenatal massage to incorporating walking trails, ultrasound to lunch-with-the-doc seminars, the mission, they say, is what makes them do it.
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• Therapeutic facials • Medi-spa services (including laser hair removal, photo rejuvenation/IPL) • Waxing • Body treatments (including hydrotherapy, Vichy showers) • Massages (including aromatherapy, craniosacral, deep tissue, lymphatic drainage, pregnancy, reflexology, sports, therapeutic Swedish, couples) • Nail treatments • Add-on treatments • Retail boutique (skin care, cosmetics and accessories/gifts adapted to the season)
we touch them through massage, and reinforce the fact that cancer hasn’t changed who they are. That can be a powerful and transformational experience for some women.” As One Nineteen’s lead physical therapist, Kaye Sharp knows the power of healing touch and movement. Breast cancer patients are referred to physical therapists to regain their range of motion. Sharp’s team can also advise patients about the additional benefits of the spa’s neuromuscular massage, or help them segue into One Nineteen’s fitness program, accessing a personal trainer’s instruction on its state-of-the-art equipment. Next Friday, Felicia may be ready for a nutritionist’s consult. One Nineteen’s registered dietitian Donna Sibley can provide personalized cooking classes for spa clients to meet specific nutritional needs. She might suggest that Felicia prepare simple, high-nutrient, small-volume meals, such as a vitaminpacked omelet. Or she might help her combat nausea with ginger-infused cold foods. Sibley may also suggest that Felicia and her family consider the facility’s Healthy Chef To Go meal plan to simplify her routine. Fresh, local, organic prepared foods are available for daily pick up. One Nineteen’s wellness integration—nutrition, exercise, physicians, medications, health education, diagnostics and every traditional/nontraditional spa service is the essence of the System’s vision, says One Nineteen executive director Stephanie Holderby.
Jean M. McLean, a Birmingham-based freelance writer, feels privileged to be able to both write as a contractor for St. Vincent’s Health System as well as benefit from their extraordinary patient services. She drives 60 miles, bypassing a half-dozen other mammography sites, to have her annual scans done at St. Vincent’s One Nineteen.
Page 20 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photos courtesy of St. Vincent’s One Nineteen
Spa One Nineteen services
“We’ve learned that we can’t just treat the symptoms— whether it’s cancer, cardiology or diabetes,” she says. “It’s part of the St. Vincent’s mission to minister to the mind, body and spirit. So more than a decade ago, our traditional inpatient hospital system decided that we needed nontraditional healing opportunities, and the spa was a great fit.” Birmingham has more spas per capita than the much larger city of Atlanta, but One Nineteen has achieved such a standout reputation that Holderby’s team had to develop a standard program/tour to accommodate all the national health care providers who request facility visits. Health care teams from distant states pay for the privilege. “That’s because this model represents where health care is going,” Holderby says. “It’s more about personal responsibility. Doctors can’t continue to ‘fix’ everything. We have to learn to better manage stress, to lose weight, to exercise and take care of ourselves, to avoid some preventable disease.” As that health care model continues to evolve, Holderby expects Spa One Nineteen to introduce more disease-specific treatments. In addition to medical massage, she foresees nail techs training to be diabetes foot care specialists, and estheticians expanding their current skin cancer pre-screenings, aided by the spa’s onsite dermatologist and plastic surgeon. A variety of medical specialties are recognizing that this type of service integration can extend their healing options, Holderby explains. “Wellness spas have been traditionally underappreciated in the medical world. But I see that changing. Doctors across our city—and even the country—are now seeing it as a prescriptive modality, a way for patients to better manage their health.” The spa is a good example of the System’s core value of creativity in patient service, Salter says. Whether one of her radiation patients finds a new lipstick shade or regains her appetite thanks to a perfectly presented spa lunch, this physician says One Nineteen’s services offer additional resources for practitioners’ holistic health options. The bride and her bridesmaids leave the spa flashing their perfectly painted pink nails. Physical therapy patients walk out with massage-relaxed muscles. Walk-in clients depart with wrapped boutique gifts. As Felicia and her friends leave, they laugh in a way they haven’t laughed in a very long time. It is a typical Friday at St. Vincent’s Spa One Nineteen. n
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ALL HOTEL RATES ARE PER NIGHT Plus 15% room tax. Congress rates are subject to availability. CANCELLATION PENALTIES: $50 cancellation fee if reservations are cancelled after 09/06/13. Full one night deposit if cancelled after 09/13/13. Cancellation penalties are STRICTLY ENFORCED.
RESERVE YOUR HOTEL Visit our website: www.LNEONLINE.com Email: registration@LNEONLINE.com
Tel: 1.800.471.0229 Fax: 1.305.443.1664
AIRLINE AND CAR RESERVATIONS For discounted airline and car reservations contact Vivian P. Lodeiro at vlodeiro@expresstravelus.com or call 1.305.341.1200 ext 256.
TAXI SERVICEs Taxis are available from airport baggage claim area to hotels and the Convention Center. Fares from Los Angeles International Airport to hotels and the Convention Center are approximately $60.00 each way. Fares from Long Beach International Airport to hotels and the Convention Center are approximately $20.00 each way.
AIRPORT SHUTTLE SERVICES Shuttle transportation from the airport to your hotel is available via SuperShuttle at 1.800.258.3826. Make your round-trip reservation by following this link: www.supershuttle.com/default.aspx?GC=24QKZ group code 24QKZ
$165
$169
$185
$180
$194
$210
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$235
GENERAL SESSION
LOCATED INSIDE THE EXHIBIT HALL
SUNDAY – SEPTEMBER 29 10:00 a.m. 10:15 a.m. 10:45 a.m. 11:15 a.m. 11:45 a.m. 12:15 p.m.
DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS
Opening Ceremony by Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner Put the WOW Into Your Spa Services With the Hungarian Scalp, Neck and Hand Massage! (DEMO) by Boldijarre Koronczay The Healing Power of Aromatherapy (LECTURE) by Linda-Anne Kahn Kansa Face Wand Massage (DEMO) by Robert and Melanie Sachs The Scientific Cause and Solutions of Rosacea and Acne Rosacea (LECTURE) by Manon Pilon Fall/Winter Runway Makeup Trends for Everyday Wear (DEMO) by Teal Druda
MONDAY – SEPTEMBER 30
10:30 a.m. 10:45 a.m. 11:15 a.m. 11:45 a.m. 12:15 p.m.
Welcome Ceremony by Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner AromaChroma Tone Facial Treatment (DEMO) by Nina Curtis Consumer Perception of Peels-Minimizing the Fear Factor (LECTURE) by Cheryl Staurowsky Generate Revenue With 10-Minute Waxing (LECTURE) by Deborah Merhar Ashiatsu Barefoot Massage (DEMO) by Ruthie Hardee
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 29
DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS
MEDICAL ESTHETICS SEMINAR ROOM 104C 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
Esthetic Equipment: Can I use it? by Susanne S. Warfield Adding Esthetics Into a Medical Practice by Susanne S. Warfield
MEDICAL FACILITIES, AESTHETIC AND WELLNESS CENTER TRACK ROOM 201A 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
Journey Into Profits With Aesthetic and Wellness Programs by Dori Soukup Say Goodbye to the à la Carte Mentality and Hello to Innovative Multi-Visit Programs by Dori Soukup
NATIONAL AESTHETIC SPA NETWORK (NASN) ROOM 203C 4:00 p.m.
Survivor Skills for the Esthetician and Spa Professionals (PANEL DISCUSSION) by Janet McCormick, Denise R. Fuller and Mary Turner
AESTHETICS INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) ROOM D-237 2:00 p.m. 4:00 p.m.
Keys to Success by William Strunk Caring for the Skin and Hair From Within by Maria Villarreal
MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30
DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS
SALON/SPA BUSINESS MANAGEMENT SEMINAR ROOM 102B 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
The 4 Rs to Front Desk Success: Retention, Retailing, Rebooking and Referrals by Joanne Berry Finding New Talent: How to Build Your Dream Team by Diane Trieste
CUTTING-EDGE SALON/SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR ROOM 103A 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
Maximize Your Relationship With Your Clients by Diane Buccola Take Your Esthetics Business to the Next Level by Diane Buccola
MEDICAL SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR ROOM 203A 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
Achieving Success in Aesthetic Medicine by Janette M. Daher The ABCs of Medical Spa Practice Development by Janette M. Daher
IMAGE SEMINAR ROOM 104C 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
Makeup for Everyone by Christian McNally Lash Perming by Mary Turner
AESTHETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) ROOM 104B 2:00 p.m. 4:00 p.m.
Aromatherapy in the Spa by Nina Curtis Adipose/Cellulite Treatment Programs by Dr. Reinhard Bergel
PRE-CONGRESS SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 28 NATIONAL ESTHETIC TEACHER TRAINING (NETT) All Day Conference – ROOM 203A
Visit www.LNEONLINE.com for conference details. Registration: $125.00 for NCEA members (INCLUDES 2-DAY ADMISSION TO THE CONGRESS)
$149.00 for Non-members (INCLUDES 2-DAY ADMISSION TO THE CONGRESS)
DED INCLU WITH SION IS ADM
WORKSHOPS SUNDAY SEPT 29TH - 2:00 P.M. TO 3:15 P.M.
DED INCLU IT W H N SIO ADMIS
ROOM 101 A
CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS The Science and Treatment of Hyperpigmentation by Iris Safar
ROOM 101 B
RHONDA ALLISON Techniques and Tips for a Successful Outcome! by Rhonda Allison
ROOM 102 A
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift, and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic and Microcurrent Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products by Dasha Saian
ROOM 102 B
HYDROPEPTIDE Evolution of Peptides by April Zangl
ROOM 102 C
OSMOSIS SKINCARE Groundbreaking Inventions in Skin Care by Ben Johnson, M.D.
ROOM 103 A
A NATURAL DIFFERENCE SKIN CARE Maximize the Power and Results of Your Treatments by Irene Stuckey
ROOM 103 B
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Bioenergetics of the Skin by Michael Q. Pugliese
ROOM 103 C
PCA SKIN Dispelling Skin Care Myths and Misconceptions by Michelle Goldsmith
ROOM 104 A
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Master the Hungarian Massage Techniques for the Instant Facelift by Boldijarre Koronczay
ROOM 201 B
BIO JOUVANCE Bio Matrix Dermal Filler With Microneedle Therapy and Radio Frequency: Alternative to Restylane by Sonia Boghosian
ROOM 202 A
DEPILÈVE Brows to Brazilian With the Latest Waxing Techniques by Deanna Henderson
ROOM 202 B
CONTROL CORRECTIVE SKINCARE SYSTEMS Jessner Peel Certification Class by Ellen Clark
ROOM 202 C
MESOESTETIC USA® Turn Back Time: Scientific Solutions To Prevent, Recover and Reawaken by Dawn Clifford
ROOM 203 A
DERMATUDE Introduction to Dermatude Dermal Needling by Libba Repa
ROOM 203 B
MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. Microdermabrasion: Past, Present and Future by Lana Yu
ROOM 203 C
THE M’LIS COMPANY Become a Total Wellness Spa, Guaranteed to Increase Revenue and Client Base by Linda T. Nelson, PH.D., R.N.D.
ROOM 101 A
SUNDAY SEPT 29TH - 3:45 P.M. TO 5:00 P.M. . RELAX AND WAX Relax … Let’s Wax! by Deborah Merhar
ROOM 101 B
RHONDA ALLISON Insight Into Acids by Rhonda Allison
ROOM 102 A
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Newest Clinical Hyperpigmentation Treatment From the Anti-Aging Experts! Non-toxic Alternatives to Hydroquinone That Safely Whiten and Brighten the Complexion by Dasha Saian
ROOM 102 B
SOFTAP PERMANENT COSMETICS Painless Permanent Makeup? by Victoria Velazquez
ROOM 102 C
VITELLE LABS / YUM GOURMET SKINCARE Private Label: The Best Business Decision You Can Ever Make! by Aleks Vranicic
ROOM 103 A
SPAWARE SOFTWARE Using Social Media With Automated Marketing and the Easy 5-Step Selling Process by Blake Rector
ROOM 103 B
DR. JEFF SKIN CARE/BEAUTY ATTICA, INC. Visible Skin Rejuvenation With Himalayan Red Rice Stem Cells by Moises Estrada
ROOM 103 C
PCA SKIN® Chemical Peeling: Safe and Effective Options for all Skin Types by Michelle Goldsmith
ROOM 104 A
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE The Organic Way: Treating Acne, Rosacea and Eczema With Natural Ingredients by Boldijarre Koronczay
ROOM 201 B
BIO JOUVANCE Dramatic Results from Skin Peels For Acne, Pigmented and Mature Skin With Microneedling by Sonia Boghosian
ROOM 202 A
SKIN FITNESS THERAPY Advanced Power Peel – A MicroSculpting Peel Treatment with the Energetic Lifting and Firming Massage Technique!! by Jeannette Costeiu
ROOM 202 B
SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY, INC. Speed Waxing With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes
ROOM 202 C
LIGHTSTIM LED Light Therapy: Results and Rewards by Amy Gardner
ROOM 203 A
NOUVEAU COSMÉTIQUE LED Light Therapy: Results and Rewards by Terri Folker
WORKSHOPS
MONDAY SEPT 29TH - 2:00 P.M. TO 3:15 P.M. ROOM 101 A
RELAX AND WAX Relax … Let’s Wax! by Deborah Merhar
ROOM 101 B
RHONDA ALLISON Retinoids: The Wonder Ingredient for Aestheticians by Rhonda Allison
ROOM 102 A
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift, and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic and Microcurrent Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products by Dasha Saian
ROOM 102 C
OSMOSIS SKINCARE Connecting Internal Wellness and Skin Conditions by Ben Johnson, M.D.
ROOM 103 B
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE The Next Generation of Peptide Technology by Michael Q. Pugliese
ROOM 103 C
PCA SKIN Hormones and the Skin by Michelle Goldsmith
ROOM 104 A
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Hungarian Secrets for Anti-Aging Massage Techniques: Advanced by Boldijarre Koronczay
ROOM 201 B
BIO JOUVANCE Botox® Alternative/Nonsurgical Facelift With Microneedle Therapy and Radio Frequency: The Latest in Skin Care by Sonia Boghosian
ROOM 202 A
ANESI Anesi Parafango Waterless Body Treatments by Ruth Maldonado
ROOM 202 B
SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY, INC. Speed Waxing With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes
ROOM 202 C
LIGHTSTIM LED Light Therapy: Results and Rewards by Amy Gardner
ROOM 203 B
MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. The Best Technique to Guarantee Fast, Perfect Eyelash Extensions by Lana Yu
ROOM 203 C
THE M’LIS COMPANY Look Good Naked by Candace Arnold
MONDAY SEPT 30TH - 3:45 P.M. TO 5:00 P.M. ROOM 103 C
PCA SKIN® Chemical Peels for Sensitive Skin Conditions and Ethnic Skin by Michelle Goldsmith
ROOM 104 A
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Newest Trends in Natural Skin Care—Don’t be Left Behind! by Boldijarre Koronczay
Visit WWW.LNEONLINE.COM FOR ALL WORKSHOP DETAILS SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 29 FROM 9:30 A.M. TO 6:00 P.M. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 30 FROM 10:00 A.M. TO 5:30 P.M.
EXHIBITOR LIST As of JULY 1st 2013
2 B Bio Beauty A Natural Difference Skin Care Aesthetic Ambassadors Aesthetics Plus and Lira Clinical AIA – Aesthetics International Association Alex Cosmetic Alexander’s Aesthetics, Inc. Allegra M. France Amber Products Anesi Appearus Products Corp. Argital SRL Associated Skin Care Professionals Athena Cosmetics B & B - Belleza & Beauty B & S Beauty Supply B.Kamins Banzai Living Beauty Bass Brush Company Beauty Attica Beauty Beauty Intl, Inc. BeautyImage Bella Co., Ltd. (Taiwan) Bella Schneider Beauty Bellaire Industry BijaBody health+beauty Bio France Lab Bio Jouvance Biodroga Biotone Blinc, Inc. Bon Vital’ BonBliss Brazilian Blue Bronze Biologic Brush up With Barbara LTD Cailyn Cosmetics California Skin Care Supply Featuring France Laure & Epillyss Wax Cass Luxury Shapewear CBI Laboratories, Inc. Celixom Christina Cosmeceuticals Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Clarisonic ClearFX Skin (CFX) Clinical Resolution Lab, Inc. Coko International, Inc. Control Corrective Skincare Systems Cowen Enterprise, Inc. Crown Brush Company d’vine Skincare Depileve DermaEarth Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills, Inc. DERMASCOPE Magazine DermaSpa Distributors DermaSwiss Derme&Co dfi aging Diamond Way Ayurveda DiamondTome DPC Int’l, Inc. Dr. Grandel Dr. Jeff Skin Care Dr. Schrammek Green Peel EcoScents Edge System LLC Elemental Herbology Emage Medical LLC Éminence Organic Skin Care Enlace Hispano Estetica Spa Y Belleza (EHESB)
Enspri Skin Care Equipro Essenavita Essential Med Tools Eternna Cosmetics Evalash Eyelash Extensions Eve Taylor North America Extend Your Lashes Eye Kandy Cosmetics EyeQBeauty Fake Bake Fallene LTD Farah Cosmetics Galaxy Enterprises, Inc. Godefroy Gold Cosmetics & Skin Care Grande Hair Grande Lash MD (h2t) Spa & Aesthetics Hairaway Hale Cosmeceuticals Health Mate Sauna Helias LLC Hollywood Face Towels, Wraps & Sheets Huini USA Beauty, LLC HydraFacial MD® HydroPeptide ilike organic skincare from Szép Elet Image Derm, Inc. Image Skincare Infinique Innovative Beauty Products InSPAration Management Instantly Ageless Janssen Southwest JB Cosmetics Jenu JHC International, Inc. Jindilli JMT Group Kerstin Fiorian International Kneipp KP. Beauty Products Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics Ladybird Line Lashbomb by Girlfriends Beauty Lashfood Le Mieux Cosmetics, Inc. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa LightStim Lightwave-LTW Tech Lira Clinical Longmi Lashes by Daniel Lucrece Physicians Aesthetic Research M.A. Dermaceuticals MAD Skincare Magazine Service Outlet (CMS of Holland) Manufacturing beauty® Marinello Schools of Beauty Martinni Beauty, Inc. MD Hair Meditime MEG 21 Mesoestetic USA Micabeauty Mineral Mine Makeup Mineralogie Mineral Makeup Minkys More Lash Morphe Brushes Nacach Wax Natural Selection Bath and Body Nelly de Vuyst, Derme.Ca
NeuLash / NeuBrow / NeuHair NewApeel Nouveau Cosmetique NuFace NutraLuxe MD Osmosis Skincare Pacific Acne PCA Skin PFB Vanish, Inc. PhotoMedex Physiodermie, Derme.Ca Pinnacle Cosmetics PINO - Natural Spa Therapy Plantlife Natural Body Care Platinum Equipment, Derme.Ca PLH Products Poise Makeup Professional Postquam California Primp Your Peach Pure Plant Home Pure Plant Spa Quintessence Skin Science RA for Men Rapid Lash Relax and Wax Revitalight Rhonda Allison SAIAN Natural Clinical Skin Care Salonwear Senté, Inc. Shelley Hancock Consulting SilcSkin Silhouet-Tone USA Skin Accents, Inc. Skin Blends LLC Skin Care Consultants Skin Fitness Therapy Skin Research Laboratories Skin Script Skin Care Skin-Apeel Co. SkinVac MD. Com SlimSpa Group, Corp. Smooth Skin Supply, Inc. Softap Permanent Cosmetics South Seas Skin Care Spa Manufacturer Direct Spa Source Spa Source Int. Spabooker Spaware Software Sranrom Sun Laboratories Tan In The Raw Tassi LLC Tei Spa The M’lis Company The Unique Edge Tradex Group Limited Turo Skin for Men Ultimate Creations, Inc. University Medical VB Beauty Viktoria DéAnn Cosmeceuticals Vitality FX Detoxification Station Vitelle Labs Vivo Derm Lab, Inc. What’s your Virtue Winning Beauty Supply WrinkleMD Yum Gourmet Skincare
of Inte Plea Es rn se th ati visi et on t u ic a s Bo s - l C at th ot Lo on e g h 20 ng res 9 Be s ac h
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Experience this dynamic product by calling 877.PCA.SKIN [722.7546] or visiting pcaskin.com.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #110 on reader service card
skin
medicine and esthetics
by Danne Montague-King
is 10 to 20 years younger. This is due to the fact that this area received maximum coverage and protection from the sun and other forms of environmental damage throughout her lifetime.
a lot of hard work by the practitioner, the support of the office staff and the patient’s complete commitment to their home care to achieve any realistic, ongoing results.
It takes a lot of hard work by the practitioner, the support of the office staff and the patient’s complete commitment to their home care to achieve any realistic, ongoing results. The portions of her skin that are prone to aging should be protected. There are several ways to bring about amazing skin revision results, which would include the revision of scars— both hypertrophic and cuneiform. But all of them, based upon a remove, rebuild, protect and maintain philosophy of home care, require treatment that could include adjunctive medical treatment and/or plastic surgery.
A new generation Times have changed. Two years ago, when I addressed The Royal Academy of Medicine in London on behalf of a colleague, I encountered an audience of “new generation” doctors, most of them younger, all of them keen to explore all types of alternative or adjunctive approaches to the many anomalies of skin disorders. It is refreshing to collaborate with these young, dynamic medical practitioners who are seeking the expertise of beauty therapists and estheticians. My, how times have changed! However, it is challenging to convince these physicians that there is no one way, product or device that addresses all aspects of skin revision. In reality, it takes
Great strides have been made over the last 10 years in the world of science, medicine and skin care. The latest crèmes of the moment, along with bogus or trendy approaches, are dying out, as these solutions are not within the grasp of the paying public. Seasoned and educated estheticians know this, and they continue to reach for the stars! For physicians who are overbooked and have little time, it is smart to hire a trained, licensed esthetician or beauty therapist to assist in the medical spa or office. This will enable you to offer quality patient support and provide more accurate diagnoses. The increase in income and client satisfaction will be enormous— and your reputation in the marketplace will be enhanced. n
Danne Montague-King is a worldwide leader and visionary in the field of skin regeneration. He has been in the esthetics industry since the 1960s, and was one of the first biochemists to recognize the power of enzymes to hydrate and tighten the skin, and the benefit of vitamin C therapy for collagen in human skin.
Page 30 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Robert Kneschke/Shutterstock.com
MORE THAN 20 YEARS AGO, there was a lot of talk in the United States about “paramedical skin care” and the imaginary category of “cosmeceuticals,” which at that time was a marketing ploy at best. Research teams from around the world never really jumped on this trend, knowing about the medical sciences that already existed, including plastic surgery and beauty therapy. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons advocated the theory that healthy skin tissue heals better and looks younger. This idea had to be pursued regarding esthetic treatments and protocols, based upon a skin revision concept. The notion behind this concept was “to help bring epidermal tissue and all associated skin functions back to where it was supposed to be by nature.” This is indisputable when viewing a woman of 80 years of age. Her face, neck and the back of her hands are hyperpigmented, and advanced cuticle damage from the sun is apparent. There are signs of solar damage and improper care on the skin. Adipose fat is descending toward the lower portion of the face, and wrinkles from glycation are everywhere. However, when assessing the tissue around her areolas, one sees skin that
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #285
THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA
PRESENTED BY
Endorsed by:
CONTACT US TODAY FOR YOUR FREE SHOW PROGRAM:
1.800.471.0229 • LNEONLINE.COM 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664
THE MOST EXQUISITE SKIN CARE & SPA EVENT IN THE INDUSTRY
Philadelphia, pa PENNSYLVANIA CONVENTION CENTER
OCT 27 & 28, 2013 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia is about working together and sharing our knowledge, helping one another to reach new levels of success. The two-day event offers the unique opportunity to attend cutting-edge career-boosting lectures and demonstrations, interact with our platform of associations, mingle with your peers at networking events and walk an exhibit floor flooded with hundreds of the best new and well established companies showcasing the latest trends and products!
2-DAY ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION
$60
$75 when you register after 10/04/13
ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION INCLUDES: • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical Facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track NEW • Salon/Spa Business Management Seminar • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Image Seminar
$40
NEW
1-DAY ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION
• Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar
$50 when you register after 10/04/13
• AIA-Aesthetics International Association • Spa Business Lounge NEW • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Holistic & Wellness Village • Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors
COMMON
SENSE Guide to oncology esthetics photo: Levente Gyori/Shutterstock.com
by Ben Johnson, M.D.
Page 34 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
skin
photos: Shutterstock.com
I
T IS A SAD REALITY IN OUR SOCIETY THAT cancer has become so commonplace that we now see billboards advertising cancer care. Cancer is spreading. Current models predict that one in every two men and one in every three women will develop some form of cancer in their lifetime. This means that you will need to have some understanding of oncology esthetics to best treat these patients during and after their therapies. I cannot discuss this topic without first emphasizing the importance of being aware of the most common reasons for the rapid rise in cancer and many illnesses. Environmental toxins! The combination of fluoride, pesticides, processed foods, preservatives, air pollution and stress create toxic areas in the body while also weakening the immune system. Please spend time educating yourself and your clients on how to stay healthy. There are basically three phases experienced by the typical oncology esthetic client: 1) Treatment (severe immunosuppressant); 2) Post-treatment (significant immunosuppressant); 3) Immune system restoration. While cancer patients are undergoing treatment, less nutrition will be delivered to their skin, which creates dull/lifeless skin and a compromised ability to heal. The manufacturing of growth factors, collagen and antioxidants is reduced dramatically because the body is focused on healing the damage from the chemotherapy. In oncology esthetics, it is recommended that estheticians avoid stimulating products or aggressive facials. But light touch facials can be done carefully with proper training. In addition, products containing vitamins, acids or artificial additives should be avoided. In the second phase, their body is recovering from the chemotherapy or radiation, and the skin can tolerate mildly stimulating facials and products that primarily hydrate and soothe their irritated skin. This period lasts three to six months, depending on the aggressiveness of the treatment being used. The DNA damage and cellular destruction result in a tremendous recovery effort by the body. All available resources are focused on replacing as much of the chemo-related damage as possible. Their skin is also in recovery, so it simply cannot tolerate any inflammation or high-level stimulation. In phase three, the body has recovered a great deal of its immune strength and much of the repair activity has slowed. Unfortunately, a lot of the DNA damage is permanent so these patients should be conSeptember 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
sidered to have aged 10-20 years at a cellular level, even if their skin shows only mild aging from their therapies. I prefer to let their skin tell me how aggressive I can be. I never recommend acid peels, but other stimulating treatments can be well tolerated, like vitamin A infusions. As with any client who is going through a medical illness, experiencing heavy stress or taking medication, these factors interfere with their healing capacity, so you should start slow and increase the intensity over time.
In oncology esthetics, it is recommended that estheticians avoid stimulating products or aggressive facials. But light touch facials can be done carefully with proper training. The current trend in skin care is toward re-establishing healthy skin and minimizing the use of inflammation as a tool for change. This approach is a must for oncology patients regardless of the time between their chemotherapy and esthetic services. I believe that chemical peels cause DNA damage. As we discussed, cancer survivors have to live with a tremendous amount of DNA damage already. Lasers, chemical peels, retinoic acid, hydroquinone and many other traumatic procedures cause DNA damage. Inflammation of any kind is a detriment to the skin and this is even truer for oncology patients. Skin cancer is another important aspect of oncology esthetics, as it is the fastest growing form of cancer. There are likely several reasons for this, including artificial sunscreen chemicals, poor sun habits and the “sun sensitizing” effects of the vast majority of medications prescribed today. Remember, “sun sensitizing” is a nice term to explain why the skin’s immune system is significantly compromised, and therefore you will experience much more aging and DNA damage than you should. I recommend that everyone evaluate their medication based on its tendency to cause sun sensitivity. Depending on the type and location of the skin cancer, facials may not be appropriate. If someone has a pre-cancerous actinic keratosis continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 35
skin|common sense
Squamous cell carcinoma has more issues related to metastasis and lymphatic spread, and while surgery is often the option here, facials should be avoided until the pathology reports show that it is gone. (AK), then you can feel comfortable doing treatments that do not cause DNA damage. Zinc Finger Technology can be used to treat these instead of the topical chemotherapy agents like 5-Fluorouracil, because the latter is so damaging to the healthy skin around it. Basal cell carcinomas are usually treated with surgery and don’t have as many concerns related to lymphatic drainage. Facials can be done on these patients, in my opinion, as long as the plan to remove the cancer is in place. Post surgery you would simply need to follow the dermatologist’s recommendations. Squamous cell carcinoma has more issues related to metastasis and lymphatic spread, and while surgery is often the option here, facials should be avoided until the pathology reports show that it is gone. If this is elsewhere on the body and no chemotherapy is needed, then you can feel comfortable doing
facials. The most deadly skin cancer is malignant melanoma. While it is always a good idea to help clients identify signs of this disease, it is not your job to diagnose as an esthetician. Just remember to look for moles that are new, changing in size or color and/or have more visible vascularity, and then refer the client to their health care provider. This type of skin cancer, if not caught early enough, is the most likely to require chemotherapy and therefore fall into the earlier protocols for facial care. Understanding oncology esthetics is a growing necessity in today’s world. Like it or not, skin care professionals have to start looking at all aspects of the health of the person they are treating. Our skin is a remarkably resilient organ, but it can be instantly overwhelmed when it is severely immunocompromised. n
Ben Johnson, M.D., is president and CEO of Osmosis Skincare. Dr. Johnson is an innovator in the field of medical esthetics and a consultant to both estheticians and physicians. He opened eight esthetics clinics in the U.S., is the founder of Cosmedix and is a distinguished public speaker and educator.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #153 on reader service card
Page 36 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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224 # h S: Boot , FL U T e I A l VIS ch, C derda 3 a Be t. Lau #40 g h F n t o o S L CSC Bo ICE IE
by Anne C. Willis
skin|
provisions for quality patient care
for cellular responses that lead to repair. People with cancer have increased levels of oxidative stress and a reduced ability to eliminate metabolic waste. By utilizing high levels of skin nutrition, sedative skin manipulations and a reduction in the duration of time to perform a treatment, the skin will experience an improvement in the quality and rate of repair, drainage of edema and reduction of inflammation.
Level of treatment demands
guidelines for oncology skin treatments DURING CANCER TREATMENT and the recovery period, which may last a year or longer, the body needs all of its resources to heal. It does not need to cope with unnecessary stressors such as stimulating spa services. In
person affected by cancer treatment, therefore, needs the restorative action of the parasympathetic response, which can slow heart rate, regulate blood vessel dilation, intestinal peristalsis and gland activity. Activating the parasym-
The duration of facials/skin therapies, especially the initial treatments, needs to be reduced to 20 to 30 minutes. It is important to become familiar with the skin’s response to touch, pressure and products. most cases, it is not the disease that saps or damages the body; it is the side effects of chemotherapy, radiation, medications and/or surgery. Natural skin function, blood counts, immune function, lymphatic drainage, digestion and organ vitality are all affected by these elements, and take time to return to normal regulation. Vigorous facial manipulation or stimulating products are not helpful during healing because they activate the sympathetic nervous system, causing excessive skin detoxification, changes to skin temperature and constriction of capillaries, which can all lead to minor side effects such as skin irritation and impaired healing. Activating the sympathetic nervous system has a profound effect on other systems in the body. It can accelerate the heart rate, constrict blood vessels and depress the gastrointestinal system. The
pathetic system also aids in regulating excess skin functions, thus lowering the side effects associated with oncology medical treatments. Undemanding manipulations, such as pressure point or lymphatic manipulation, initiate these restorative, parasympathetic reactions. When discussing stimulants, it is important to clarify exactly what the term means. In a fundamental way, as defined by classical systems such as Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine, as well as Western traditions, treatments have two primary purposes: stimulating (warming) or relaxing (cooling). In general, most people—but especially cancer patients—suffer from systemic inflammation, and therefore need nutrition and relaxants far more than they need stimulants. Excessive stimulants are incredibly toxic, and elicit subtle changes in the chemical composition necessary
Due to a lack of clinical training, many estheticians are working with cancer clients, utilizing protocols designed for standard skin care applications. As these examples show, the outcome for successful skin support is determined by the esthetician’s understanding of the oncology patient‘s physical and mental state. Estheticians need to begin by being aware of the level of demand the treatment has (both physically and psychologically) on the patient. Let’s start by looking at physical variation due to medical oncology treatments. The organs of detoxification, including the lymphatic system, become overextended as the body metabolizes not only the drugs but also the debris from dying cancer cells and other cells affected by the treatments. This cellular debris overloads lymph nodes that are part of the body’s filtration system. Additionally, patients are more sedentary during treatment. Muscular action is one of the prime movers of the lymphatic system, and the lack of this action causes lymph to stagnate. A demanding facial therapy treatment can stir up this sediment, overwhelming the lymphatic system’s filtration capability. Some people will experience cognitive problems during their course of chemotherapy. This condition is brought about by the introduction of a non-organic systemic supply of chemicals to the body. Studies have established that the brain is predisposed to the absorption and storage of chemicals and toxins. Those who have experienced it commonly refer to the condition as “chemo brain.” Once continues
Page 38 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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skin|provisions for quality patient care
Combined chemoradiation skin care algorithm chart Grade 1
Grade 2
Grade 3
Grade 4
faint erythema, dry desquamation
moderate to brisk erythema
moist desquamation
skin necrosis or ulceration
again, a demanding facial therapy treatment can stir up these toxins, overwhelming the lymphatic system’s filtration capability. The most common display of this condition is described as having difficulty concentrating and remembering words, having trouble finding the right words and undertaking new learning, as well as having difficulty managing daily activities. This condition can be debilitating and frustrating. The emotional aspect of cancer begins with diagnosis, and follows the patient throughout treatment. Even the language used to describe cancer has a negative connotation. Cancer patients lose control of many aspects of their lives. They are often told how brave they are, which is how they are perceived because they are holding onto their emotions. Stimulating treatments can set off a cascade of emotional release, which patients and practitioners need to be prepared for. Therefore, it makes sense to spare the body from stirring the pent up emotions and waste products, which then could leave the patient feeling ill or fatigued for days following a facial. A focus on being supportive and nurturing creates many beneficial outcomes, such as an increase in physical energy, a feeling of wholeness and a lessening of pain and anxiety.
Skin algorithm charts Skin algorithm charts are used in esthetics to determine skin types and conditions. However, in medical oncology, a skin algorithm has a different representation of the skin. Medical skin algorithm defines changes to the skin’s integrity, such as erythema or dry desquamation. This is termed a clinical presentation. It is important to understand the medical language used when describing skin changes that occur due to medical procedures and drugs. It will enhance your communication with the oncology medical team and establishes your professionalism as a practitioner. Understanding the clinical presentation also allows you to address skin conditions that are within the scope of your licensure.
Time allotment The duration of facials/skin therapies, especially the initial treatments, need to be reduced to 20 to 30 minutes. It is important to become familiar with the skin’s response to touch, pressure and products. The goal of the initial visit should be to gain
a greater understanding of where the patient is in his or her healing process, and what effect the medical treatments have had on their skin. A patient may be scheduled for one hour; however the time should be partially allocated for hands-on treatment, and evaluation and self care instruction the rest of the time. Scheduling must be flexible, allowing for plenty of time to meet the specific needs of the patient. Confirmation of appointments is a must, due to impaired cognitive abilities. It will be necessary to have ample patience, which also means time. Thus, practitioners cannot be rushed during the time scheduled for a cancer patient’s treatment. The provision for quality patient care can enhance the cancer patient’s life and overall comfort during every step of the healing journey, through diagnosis, surgery, chemotherapy and radiation. Spa services for cancer patients can provide a multitude of health benefits. Understanding the adjustments needed to accommodate this medically challenged population is paramount. As you have learned, there are many facets of oncology skin care. Staying current and relevant in your practice, and if necessary acquiring specialized training, will allow you to practice responsibly and with confidence. Knowledge and practical experience will make the difference in how you can help improve the quality of life for cancer patients. n photos courtesy of Mountain Radiation Oncology, Asheville, NC
Anne C. Willis, a licensed esthetician and worldwide leader in holistic and medical skin therapies, is the founder of De la Terre Skincare. She is an accredited skin care instructor and the director of Oncology Skin Therapeutics™, bringing more than 30 years of experience and knowledge to the new generation of skin therapists. Willis is a contributor to The Esthetician’s Guide to Working With Physicians, and has been featured in numerous publications. For more information, contact her at info@delaterreskincare.com or visit delaterreskincare.com.
Page 40 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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SKIN AND SKIN CANCER
THE WORLD IS MADE UP OF DIVERSE POPULATIONS, with 80 percent of the inhabitants being non-Caucasian. These inhabitants in the U.S. have migrated away from their country of origin into a more racially blended society. The terms of race and ethnicity are poorly defined or understood, even though they are used interchangeably. It is more of a method of classifying diverse populations into socially and politically defined categories. Race is classified as more of a biological phenomenon, which includes one’s skin color, skin tone, eye and hair color, as well as a tendency toward developing certain diseases. Ethnicity identifies individuals and populations on the basis of shared social variables such as religion, language, diet and customs.
Skin color The most obvious physical feature anyone has is their skin color. Regardless of one’s skin color and geographic location, the purpose, function and biological requirement of cells remains similar in all individuals. However, there are some differences between race groups and origins with evolving genetic adaptive characteristics unique to each. • The closer one originates from locations in the proximity of the equator, the darker their skin, with the skin color adapting accordingly. Populations living in the colder latitudes north and south of the equator are lighter in skin color.
BY PAMELA SPRINGER
Page 42 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Spotmatik/Shutterstock.com
GLOBAL
• The skin serves as a protective envelope for our body’s organs. One of its most important features is the builtin UV exposure-regulating cell called a melanocyte. It is responsible for producing a pigment called melanin, a polymer that shields important cellular components within the dermal layers from overexposure to ultraviolet radiation.
The red head gene: MC1R
photo: Blend Images /Shutterstock.com
Recent scientific research has uncovered important findings regarding genetic factors that increase the risk for cancer in very fair skin types. The differences in skin color or pigment type are mostly due to the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) gene. This receptor is located on the surface of the melanocyte and provides instructions for making a protein called melanocortin 1, which controls the type of melanin that is produced. When activated, melanocortin 1 triggers a cascade of chemical reactions inside the melanocytes to stimulate the making of the darker pigment, eumelanin. In the event that the receptor is not activated or is blocked, pheomelanin is manufactured instead of eumelanin. Pheomelanin (yellow-red pigment) produces more free radicals, and can worsen the effects of UV exposure. Each person has two copies of the MC1R gene—one from each parent. This gene comes in two forms, a standard form or a variant (mutated). Some variant forms are responsible for producing more pheomelanin, resulting in the fair skin, freckles and red hair. Fair skin is more susceptible to sunburn and oxidative stress. Additionally, these individuals do not tan well and prove to be at higher risk for melanomas. Most importantly, this risk factor surrounding the MC1R gene means that there is a propensity for inflammation and reaction during skin treatments. Caution should be taken when analyzing global skin tones because they may possess this hidden gene, even if the skin color appears dark. Doing a thorough assessment of their skin history, including their cultural inheritance, can uncover clues regarding potential skin responses.
misdiagnoses, causing a lower survival rate. When compared to Caucasian skin types, people of African, Asian, Hispanic and Native American descent have a higher morbidity and mortality rate from squamous cell carcinomas and melanoma skin. These cutaneous lesions tend to develop differently in skin of color, and reports suggest they become more aggressive. According
For Asians, Hawaiians, Native Americans, African Americans and others of African descent, melanoma appears in the mouth, palms of the hands, soles of the feet and under the nails.
to the Skin Cancer Foundation, the five-year survival rate of African Americans with melanoma is 59 percent, compared to 85 percent in Caucasians. Among Latinos, the incidence of melanoma increased by 32.4 percent between 1992 and 2005. The most common forms of skin cancers are basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma.
Basal cell carcinoma • Most common in Caucasians, Hispanics, Chinese and Japanese Asians. • Also common in Africans, Americans and Asian Indians. • 89 percent of basal carcinoma on skin of color occurs on the head or neck. • There is a higher incidence among darker-skinned populations living in sunnier climates (i.e., Hispanics residing in New Mexico and Arizona).
Skin cancer in skin of color
Squamous cell carcinoma
There is overwhelming evidence that UV radiation is carcinogenic. Overexposure to ultraviolet radiation, including the earth’s atmosphere, is certainly a determining factor that leads to the potential for skin cancer. Studies show that the incidence of skin cancer has increased significantly during the last decade. Even though skin cancer is considered the most common of all carcinomas, most of the information reported comes from studies primarily conducted on Caucasian skin types. Reports involving skin of color are rare because there is a false belief that skin of color is exempt from the dangers of UV radiation due to the skin’s melanin enriched content. This false sense of security has led to late detections or
• Most common among African Americans and Asian Indians. • Second most common among Hispanics and Chinese/Japanese Asians. • Among African Americans and native Africans, SCC occurs mainly on the legs and anogenital regions. • Among people of African descent, scarring or chronic inflammation (discoid lupus, burns, scars and nonhealing skin ulcerations, radiation therapy and physical or thermal trauma) has a higher tendency to lead to metastasis and death. continues
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 43
skin|global skin
Melanoma in global skin Malignant melanoma is the most dangerous and deadly form of skin cancer in people of color. • For Asians, Hawaiians, Native Amer icans, African Americans and others of African descent, it appears in the mouth, palms of the hands, soles of the feet and under the nails.
• In fair-skinned Hispanics, it appears on the trunk and legs. • In dark-skinned Hispanics, melanoma appears on the feet. • Other reported risk factors include albinism, burn scars, radiation therapy, trauma, immunosuppression and pre-existing moles (especially on the palms/soles of feet and mouth).
Acral lentiginous Acral lentiginous is one of the most common forms of melanoma in people with dark skin, especially Asians and African-Americans. • Tends not to affect Caucasians. • Usually seen as a black or brown discoloration on the palms of hands and feet or under the surface of nails. It is one of the least diagnosed conditions because of its odd location. • Acral lentiginous spreads superficially before tumors begin penetrating deeper organs. Due to delayed diagnoses, mela noma is frequently fatal for African Amer icans, Latinos and Asians. Because research is limited, many health care professionals are not armed with enough information to educate their patients. Estheticians are not allowed to diagnose, but they should have a referral system of physicians who specialize in a variety of procedures. If your client has an ethnic background and you see an unusual lesion that you suspect may be an indicator of something, refer them to a dermatologist who specializes in skin cancer, preferably one who is educated in ethnic dermatology. n
Pamela Springer is a licensed educator, speaker and author, and conducts monthly Don’t Be Afraid of the Dark webinars on skin management programs for darker skins. She is the product developer for Global Skin Solutions, and founder of The Skin & Makeup Institute of Arizona and the Academy of Advanced Aesthetics and Permanent Cosmetics. Springer volunteers her time as the director of National Aesthetic Spa Network for Arizona. She can be reached at info@pamelaspringer.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #318 on reader service card
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SKIN CARE AND THE CANCER PATIENT A DIAGNOSIS OF CANCER IS DEVASTATING to patients and their families. Depending on the type and location of the cancer, the patient may be treated with chemotherapy, radiation therapy or even surgery. While some patients are aware that cancer treatment may affect their skin, many are not adequately prepared for the varied and sometimes severe cutaneous side effects. By gaining a thorough understanding of the possible dermatological ramifications of cancer treatment, skin care professionals can help educate the patient while designing treatment plans to minimize damage and speed skin recovery.
Types of cancer There are literally hundreds of types of cancer for which a patient may be receiving chemotherapy or radiation treatment. As a dermatologist or skin health clinician, patients that are battling non-skin-related cancers may be referred to you to help mitigate the potential negative effects that intravenous chemotherapy and radiation treatment can have on their skin. Providing cancer patients with effective tools to keep their skin feeling and looking healthy during these difficult, yet necessary medical interventions is an important and meaningful part of our work as skin care clinicians.
Page 46 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
skin BY JENNIFER LINDER, M.D.
Common dermatologic side effects of chemotherapy Educating the cancer patient and setting realistic expectations about what may occur in their skin during chemotherapy is important. It is also helpful to make them aware of the strategies you can put in place for them to help minimize cutaneous discomfort and the complications they may experience. Below are the most common skin-related side effects to be aware of:
• Severe dryness • Sensitivity, rashes or allergic reactions • Photosensitivity • Flushing • Hyperpigmentation • Folliculitis, a skin rash often mistaken for acne
photo: Sunshine Pics/Shutterstock.com
How chemotherapy affects the skin The treatment of cancer is a complex endeavor for the scientists developing treatments, as well as for the oncologists treating patients. A highly simplified description of how these drugs work is that they target the genetic material within the nuclei of rapidly replicating cells, such as cancer cells. Some drugs damage the chromosomes before the cell splits, and others achieve this while they are splitting. Effective treatment typically involves a variety of chemotherapeutic drugs to target as many cells as possible. Due to these drugs’ mechanisms of action, cells that are not actively splitting are less likely to incur damage. Unfortunately, because hair and skin cells are constantly replicating, they are almost always damaged during these treatments. September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
The intensely dry skin that is a common complaint associated with chemotherapy can be minimized by boosting skin hydration and barrier function prior to starting the course of treatment. Topical serums and creams containing gentle humectant ingredients (such as urea, glycerin and hyaluronic acid) and occlusive ingredients (such as niacinamide, squalane, dimethicone and cyclomethicone) will help prepare skin for the upcoming challenges. The discomfort patients experience due to dryness can range from skin that feels slightly dry and stretched to being so dry that the skin cracks, peels and weeps. If the skin does develop open fissures, special care must be taken when recommending topical products, as the pH of the skin in those areas will be higher, making products that are pH appropriate for intact skin feel acidic and uncomfortable. Skin rashes and topical allergic reactions can accompany chemotherapy treatment. To minimize the occurrence of possible rashes or reactions, counsel patients to avoid the use of skin care products containing synthetic dyes, perfumes or other known sensitizers during their course of treatment. continues
THE DISCOMFORT PATIENTS EXPERIENCE DUE TO DRYNESS CAN RANGE FROM SKIN THAT FEELS SLIGHTLY DRY AND STRETCHED TO BEING SO DRY THAT THE SKIN CRACKS, PEELS AND WEEPS.
LNEONLINE.com • Page 47
Photosensitivity can also result from chemotherapy. Some of the drugs used in treatment can increase the patient’s sensitivity to UVA and UVB rays, and cause sunburn. Daily use of a broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30, practicing sun avoidance and wearing protective clothing and wide-brimmed hats can prevent overexposure and limit damage. Skin flushing is caused by a dilation of the blood vessels, and is common as a result of certain chemotherapeutic drugs. It cannot be prevented topically, but use of gentle, non-irritating topicals in conjunction with topical anti-inflammatory ingredients can help minimize redness and discomfort. It is not completely clear why hyperpigmentation is such a common side effect of chemotherapy treatment, but the fact that inflammation is a key driver of melanogenesis and pigment deposit likely plays a role. Gentle melanogenesis inhibiting ingredients, such as arbutin, licorice root and L-ascorbic, kojic, azelaic and lactic acids can be used prior to and during treatment to minimize the severity of the hyperpigmentation, and to keep it largely below the surface and invisible to the naked eye. Once chemotherapy is completed and the skin has returned to baseline, a series of gentle, blended, superficial chemical peels is recommended to lift any excess pigment that was deposited during treatment. During chemotherapy, some patients will develop what looks like an acne breakout. This is actually folliculitis, resulting from the leukocytes drawn into the follicles due to irritation caused by the chemotherapy drugs. These follicular lesions can appear on the face, scalp or anywhere on the body. Traditional acne treatments are typically too aggressive for the compromised skin of cancer patients, so instead gentle anti-inflammatory and antibacterial ingredients are recommended. Low percentages of salicylic acid and azelaic acid can help fight bacteria and clear the follicles, while hydrocortisone, bisabolol and white willow bark are good choices to help calm irritated follicles. The side effects of radiation therapy on the skin are usually more localized than those associated with chemotherapy. This form of cancer treatment works by sending high doses of energy directly to the cancer site in an attempt to eradicate cancerous cells while preserving the surrounding tissue. Due to the intensity of external radiation therapy, patients experience side effects similar to that of being in the sun unprotected. Common side effects include darkening of the
Providing the best information for your patient Undergoing treatment for cancer can be a scary and confusing time for patients. Assisting them in sifting through the plethora of available information and presenting solutions to their skin problems is an invaluable service during this uncertain time. It is important to provide the patient with research-based solutions to their issues and ensure that they can comfortably carry out your recommendations, either on their own or with the aid of a caregiver. Patients should be instructed to cleanse the skin with mild cleansers and lukewarm water, avoiding the use of harsh detergents or exfoliants. Provide guidance in selecting a broad spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays, and contains one of the following UVA protection ingredients: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone or encamsule. This daily protection is critical for everyone, yet a non-negotiable for the patient undergoing cancer treatment.
Partnering with the oncologist As a cancer patient undergoes the rigors of treatment, they need the support of a team of professionals, as well as that of friends and family. Clinical skin health professionals and dermatologists are well positioned to partner with oncologists to serve as mutual referral partners in order to provide the patient with the best overall care and possible outcome. Skin health professionals are indispensable in both the pre- and post-treatment environment. Patients can benefit greatly from assistance in promoting their skin health prior to chemotherapy or surgery, which will help to make treatment easier and reduce healing time afterward. Working with an oncologist, a detailed post-treatment plan can be developed to monitor and address any skin problems that may occur. Working with cancer patients to help maintain the health of their skin during treatment provides a unique opportunity to gain expertise in an area that has been historically underserved, and provide a service that can offer comfort and reassurance during a difficult time in a patient’s life. n Jennifer Linder, M.D., is a boardcertified dermatologist, a fellowshiptrained Mohs surgeon and one of the foremost U.S. experts in the use of the cosmetic filler Sculptra. A biomedical engineer and chemist, Dr. Linder holds a clinical faculty position in the department of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. Dr. Linder is chief scientist for PCA Skin.
Page 48 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Karuka/Shutterstock.com
GENTLE MELANOGENESIS INHIBITING INGREDIENTS CAN BE USED PRIOR TO AND DURING TREATMENT TO MINIMIZE THE SEVERITY OF THE HYPERPIGMENTATION.
skin and blisters. Patients may also experience dry, flaking or peeling skin, similar to patients who undergo chemotherapy. Avoiding the sun, wearing loose clothing and using gentle, occlusive balms can help to make patients more comfortable.
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by Mórag Currin
skin|oncology esthetics personalizing the treatment WHAT DOES A PERSONALIZED spa treatment mean to you? Does it start with a spa receptionist who greets you by name with a smile? A skin care specialist who listens and understands what they need to about your health, your medical history and treatments you have received? We all want estheticians/skin care specialists who truly understand us and our needs. In the near future, this personal understanding will go deeper than ever before. Personalized spa treatments will become a model of the way spa services evolve through the use of specific therapies best suited to a person’s health, medical history and skin conditions, and this will be driven by clients’ demand for treatments that are safe and more effective.
Two brief medical histories Client A – Intrahepatic Cholangiocarcinoma – Stage IV Cholangiocarcinoma is an uncommon malignancy arising from the epithelial cells of the biliary tract. The biliary system consists of the organs and ducts (bile ducts, gallbladder and associated structures) that are involved in the production and transportation of bile. These tumors may arise anywhere along the intrahepatic or extrahepatic biliary tree. Patients with cholangiocarcinoma typically present at advanced stages, and cure rates are low, even with aggressive therapy. The majority of patients present with unresectable disease and have a survival rate of less than 12 months following the diagnosis.
Surgery: Five eighths of Client A’s liver was removed, plus all of the adjoining lymph nodes. She experienced keloid scarring as a side effect of surgery, as well as a lot of pain. Chemotherapy: After six months of two different “cocktails,” the second session of chemotherapy is terminated due to side effects. These include the loss of hair, hand-foot syndrome (blisters on the hands, feet, legs and lips) during chemotherapy and extreme fatigue from chemotherapy and the disease process. Client A experiences chills, as well as shortness of breath due to new tumors in the lungs. Dexamethisone (Decadron) side effects: Muscle weakness (myopathy), insomnia and hypertension. Hydromorphone (a narcotic analgesic) is inserted into Client A’s quadracept through a pain pump, which she self administers every 20 seconds. Side effects include dizziness and lightheadedness. She feels faint and drowsy, and suffers from dry mouth and a headache. General notes: Client A was a nurse and an avid athlete. She ran every day of her life. There was no history of cancer in her family. She had never received a spa treatment. Client A‘s skin had experienced significant sun damage, and was extremely dry and thin. Client B – Metastatic breast cancer - Stage IV – right breast When breast cancer spreads to another part of the body—most commonly the bones, liver, lungs or brain—it is referred to as metastatic breast cancer.
Surgery: Bilateral mastectomy and reconstruction. The client is not comfortable lying face down. Lymph nodes are removed with the initial diagnosis of breast cancer. Chemotherapy: Hormone therapy and/or chemotherapy with trastuzumab (herceptin). Radiation therapy: Whole brain radiation therapy is done for the entire brain. Client experiences headaches and pain at the back side of the head where radiation was administered. Dexamethasone (Decadron) side effects: Weight gain, muscle weakness (myopathy), insomnia, hypertension and swelling of the face. Trastuzumab side effects: Muscle aches. General notes: An avid spa goer. Worked full time and has always had monthly facials. Her skin was sensitive, and her hair was starting to regrow after the second session of chemotherapy. She could not lie down on her back with her head down. She currently does not feel well and is experiencing extreme fatigue and nausea. Skin appears to be in decent condition, but is more sensitive and dry than usual. Here we have two completely different scenarios. But both clients are getting a facial—so let’s figure out how to personalize them (see table on page 52). Based on these two medical histories, there are differences in how an effective and safe treatment can be carried out for each. This includes length of treatment, choice of products and steps in your facial treatment that need to be eliminated, shortened or changed. Please note that both case histories are not comprehensive; only some key items have been highlighted. The length of the treatment is based on what the client can handle. Many estheticians/skin care specialists have good intentions; however, they are not aware of complications resulting from cancer treatment. Therefore, they cannot make safe adjustments that will benefit the clicontinues
Page 50 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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skin|oncology esthetics Client A Psycho-social
PERSONALIZE
Positioning
PERSONALIZE
Skin analysis PERSONALIZE
Hair loss
PERSONALIZE Direction PERSONALIZE Pressure PERSONALIZE
Client B
Anxious and unsure of what to expect. Wants to share everything in detail. Openly discusses death and leaving a legacy.
Excited to have a facial; feels upbeat after her treatment and hopes for recovery.
Listen, ask key questions and communicate what adjustments will be done; focus on her relaxation.
Listen, ask key questions and communicate what adjustments will be be done; focus on her relaxation.
Client can lie on her back. She is in a lot of pain, and sometimes dizzy.
Client cannot lie on either her back or front. She is experiencing muscle weakness and fatigue.
May need help with changing and getting onto the spa treatment table.
May need help with changing and getting onto the spa treatment table. May need to have a back massage treatment on a chair.
Dry, sun-damaged.
Dry, sensitive.
Focus on hydrating and moisturizing. Use fragrance free products.
Focus on soothing and hydrating. Use fragrance free products. Avoid any irritating, toxic or carcinogenic ingredients.
Has hair, but is not interested in a scalp massage.
She is very comfortable with not wearing a wig, yet the back of the head is extremely painful to touch.
Not applicable.
Avoid this area. Energy healing can be used.
No lymph nodes are removed.
Lymph nodes are removed from the right axilla.
No adjustments to be made.
Massage strokes must be redirected.
Clients who are on pain medication will not be able to gauge effectively.
Skin is sensitive, and she is not feeling her best.
Adjustments must be made.
ent. With a comprehensive intake form, you will glean necessary information to determine whether or not to personalize the treatment. There are also many cancer survivors who have no ongoing risks or side effects, and they can be handled as effectively as any spa client, as they require no adjustments. For clients undergoing cancer treatment, estheticians/skin care specialists are to get permission from the client’s oncologist to perform a spa treatment. As estheticians, we do not interfere with directions given by the oncologist or any member of the medical team. Here is a scenario of a client who has been undergoing a stem cell transplant for leukemia. As a result of her treatment she developed GvHD (Graft versus Host Disease). The client’s skin is very reactive,
Adjustments must be made.
and her oncologist granted permission for her to get her regular facial treatments. • First facial treatment: No reactive issues. • Second facial treatment: A mild rash was visible, and skin was flaky and dry. Skin had a negative reaction after the treatment. Outcome: The oncologist wanted only mineral oil to be massaged onto the client’s skin during facials. What esthetician/skin care specialist even uses mineral oil in their spa? How do you as the esthetician/skin care specialist handle this? Your expertise is greatly needed; your healing touch and compassion will ease and assist each and every client facing this health challange. The need for personalizing treatments is necessary, the need for training
is evident and working with the client’s medical team is imperative. n Mórag Currin is the author of Oncology Esthetics: A Practitioner’s Guide. She is the visionary behind Oncology Esthetics®. An esthetician and massage therapist, she has 17 years of experience in esthetics, product development and training. Currin has worked with cancer patients in both hospital and spa environments, which inspired her to create a textbook and trainings for estheticians. Currin is a sought-after speaker and can be contacted at info@touchforcanceronline.com.
Page 52 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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CUTTING-EDGE CLARITY
SKINNEWS
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SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
STRESS FREE SOLUTIONS Help your clients detoxify, destress and defy nature with the Unstress Harmonizing Face Kit from Christina. This luxurious kit features powerful probiotic products especially designed to prevent, minimize and reverse environmental damage, personal stress and natural hormonal changes. It is enriched with DNA-protecting and immune strengthening peptides, powerful antioxidants and deeply nourishing soothing agents. Together this detoxifies, helps restore cell structure and provides elasticity and hydration, resulting in healthier, even toned and soothed skin, says the company. christina-usa.com 888.604.6268
PREMIUM ANTI-AGING The Total Strength Serum from PCA SKIN® contains a unique combination of epidermal growth factor and a wrinkle-reducing peptide to provide the total package in anti-aging correctives. This next generation peptide reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by strengthening and supporting the skin. With twice daily use, this advanced serum can minimize enlarged pores and loss of collagen while improving elasticity, says the company. pcaskin.com 877.PCA.SKIN
YOUTHFUL BOOST HydroPeptide’s Power Lift AntiWrinkle Ultra Rich Concentrate leaves skin smooth and evenly hydrated with a blend of repetitive facial contractionreducing peptides and 21 hydrating elements. Echinacea, buddleja and sodium hyaluronate replenish moisture for even the driest complexions without clogging pores or leaving behind an oily shine, says the company. Licorice and bearberry instantly brighten skin. hydropeptide.com 800.932.9873
Page 54 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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SKINNEWS
SOOTHING SCRUB EXFOLIATE by BioTherapeutic features papaya enzymes and jojoba to create the ideal exfoliating scrub. Sodium PCA provides moisture retention, and allantoin soothes and heals even the most sensitive skin. This mild preparation leaves the skin feeling refreshed and refined, and it is gentle enough for daily use, says the company. bio-therapeutic.com 800.976.2544
REAL RADIANCE
BRIGHTER AND BETTER JANSSEN COSMETICS is pleased to launch its FAIR SKIN product line, featuring a blended formula that inhibits the skin’s native melanin pigment at its very source. This product line allows the skin to become brighter and pigmentation will appear paler in the long term, says the company. janssen-cosmetics.com 877.552.6739
The Colorlite Plus Pigmentation Cream is Dermaesthetics’ signature whitening and brightening cream. Colorlite Plus is especially appealing to those who are looking to even and lighten their skin tone. Enhanced with high grade arbutin and an exclusive whitening formula, Colorlite’s effectiveness can be seen within just 28 days, says the company. dermaestheticsusa.com 213.545.1266
SPECIAL GIFT Christine Heathman, CEO and founder of GlyMed Plus, developed “Marie’s Gift,” an incredible collection of GlyMed Plus facial products named after her Aunt Marie, who fought a courageous battle with breast cancer while making a difference in the lives of all she touched. GlyMed Plus donates Marie’s Gift boxes to the Women Beyond Cancer Foundation, a non-profit foundation located in Park City, UT, created for cancer survivors. The gift box contains Mega-Purifying Cleanser, Eye Calm, Photo-Age Protection Cream 30+ and Daily Repair Mega-Moisture Cream. glymedplus.com 800.676.9667 womenbeyondcancer.org 803.646.0123
BRILLIANT LUMINOSITY The GLOW VISIBLY WHITE SERIES from Alex Cosmetic is a skin care system that effectively fights hyperpigmentation and skin discoloration, in addition to regenerating and protecting the skin, says the company. Active ingredients such as encapsulated kojic acid, niacinamide, arbutin and gigawhite reduce melanin production to help correct and diminish the appearance of dark spots. A radiant, even complexion is restored. alexcosmeticusa.com 206.778.0482
FACE PERFECTION
• Nature’s Peels
• Healing Hydrators
• Chemical Peels
• Vitamin Serums
• Stem Cell Treatments
• Plant Cleansers
• Peptide Therapies
• Corrective Masks
Biochemist and founder, Gül Zone and Dr. Robert Zone.
1-888-292-DERM | www.dermaware.com | Professionals register online
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spa
oncology massage
by Antionette Muirhead
Points to remember (for the spa and therapist) 1. Oncology massage training may include site restriction, pressure consideration, positional needs and the best time to schedule the client’s massage. Cancer treatment is unique to each patient; modifying a massage entails asking plenty of questions in order to plan a safe massage for each client. 2. An intake form should include any medications a patient is on. Steroids, anti-nausea medications, anti-anxiety and pain meds, chemotherapy and hormonal therapy all have side effects. It is very beneficial to research the drugs, learn the most common side effects and discuss your findings with your client. 3. There must be implantable ports or a port-a-cath. This catheter is connected to a port, surgically inserted (tunneled) under the skin of the chest, or sometimes the upper arm, by a surgeon or radiologist. It is very important not to dislodge the catheter during the massage.
They are literally putting their life into your hands, and hoping for relief and relaxation during an extreme time in their life. with them how they are tolerating the six to seven week regime. They may be experiencing fatigue, pain and anxiety as they try to work, maintain a normal life and struggle with their illness. They are not dealing with normal challenges, which makes their massage time all the more valuable. 6. Most patients report feeling fatigued and anxious during treatment, whether it is surgery, radiation or chemotherapy. This is not the right time to give them a stimulating or detoxifying massage. The massage should be focused on renewing their energy level and instilling relaxation. 7. Ask questions about their daily living activities; it gives you a bit of insight into how they are tolerating their treatment journey. Frequent di-
agnostic tests are uncomfortable and emotionally nerve-wracking. A soothing massage can help relieve the stiffness or discomfort from a hard table. 8. It might be difficult to try to avoid strong scents in your spa for patients with sensitivities, so scheduling early appointments before a room has absorbed too many scents might be helpful. Maybe even consider designating a room to be scent free. 9. Lymphedema is a lifetime risk; you need to be aware of any nodes removed to ensure a safe massage that doesn’t trigger a lymphedema episode. 10. An oncology massage will always include avoiding deep pressure due to long-term side effects from cancer treatment. Simply taking an online class or reading an article about oncology massage is not sufficient to understand all the nuances and protocols for oncology massage. Oncology patients are seeking out reputable facilities and experienced massage therapists. They are literally putting their life into your hands, and hoping for relief and relaxation during an extreme time in their life. The trained massage therapist will take great care of the spa guest, which will assist them significantly in the recovery process. n Antoinette Muirhead is a licensed massage therapist. She initiated the outpatient massage program at Memorial West Cancer Center. Muirhead is also a patient advocate, and has taken part in numerous patient advocacy conferences, including the Living Beyond Breast Cancer conference for the past five years. To learn about her oncology massage training in the spa setting, visit tonimuirhead.com.
Page 58 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Monkey Business Images/Shutterstock.com
CONSUMER-DRIVEN HEALTH care, a term that means “services patients want,” has propelled integrative services into major cancer centers. When the call comes into your spa, do you have a staff member with oncology massage training who can answer? Now is the time for your spa to get in the game, train a staff member and offer “oncology massage” as part of your spa menu. When you do, the word will get out to your local cancer survivors and they will come.
4. Patients become medical experts on their most recent blood work. Ask them about their latest counts of white blood cells, red blood cells and platelets. Blood work can all be affected during cancer treatment, so realize that cancer patients may need to cancel or reschedule their massage appointments. 5. Radiation treatment creates its own unique side effects to the skin, connective tissue, body organs, nervous, lymphatic and cardiac systems. Avoiding the radiation site is critical; this includes both the entrance and exit site of the radiation beam. Allow your client to share
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1. Soothing Herbs Body Oil
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ILIKE ORGANIC SKIN CARE
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE
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PRITI NYC
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RESEARCH FOUNDATION
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bcrfcure.org
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HONEYBEE GARDENS, INC.
chromegirl.com
honeybeegardens.com
SOTRU
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14. UNITY All-In-One Colour Gel
sotru.com
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bioseaweedgel.bigcartel.com
DE LA TERRE SKINCARE
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15. Nail Polish Remover
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BREAST CANCER
3. Sun Repair Dietary Supplement
4. Herb Rich Tea
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5. Acai Firming Mist
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DAWN LORRAINE
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TATA HARPER
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tataharperskincare.com
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BREAST CANCER ACTION
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8. Post-procedure Fast Skin Repair MESOESTETIC USA mesoesteticusa.com Page 62 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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4. Coplacen Serum DERMASWISS dermaswiss.com
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photo: Shutterstock.com
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September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 65
A COMPLEX COMPLICATION POST-SURGICAL AMPUTATION PAIN
adequate wastes, so tissue degenerates and becomes vulnerable to infection with potentially life-threatening pathogens. Diabetes mellitus, especially type 2 diabetes, is the leading cause of amputations in the United States, accounting for over half of all surgeries. Amputations due to cancer and congenital malformation have dropped or stayed the same for several years. One caveat to this trend is that amputations among injured military personnel have risen significantly since 2007—a direct outcome of the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq.
A pain primer Pain is the unpleasant sensation of nerve irritation that alerts us to potential or actual damage. Research demonstrates that massage therapy has a profoundly positive impact on many types of pain, so it is useful for massage therapists to know about the mechanisms involved. The perception of pain occurs entirely within the brain, but the damage that triggers it usually occurs in the distant tissues. This damage is relayed by the primary sensory (afferent) neurons in the tissues to the sensory tracts in the spinal
Page 66 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photos: Shutterstock.com
MASSAGE THERAPISTS WORKING IN A SPA SETTING are unlikely to encounter many clients who are survivors of an amputation surgery. However, given the high rates of diabetes and other vascular diseases in this country, combined with the fact that amputation rates among returning military men and women have skyrocketed, this is a situation that many of us may face at some point. Amputation is sometimes seen as a failure in treatment, but it is a life-saving failure. It is conducted when the risk of systemic infection is so high, or the chances of restoring function to a damaged limb are so low, that simply removing the injured area is the most sensible strategy. New technologies in prosthetics have made the choices and life expectancy for amputees better than ever, and while these patients are vulnerable to many serious complications, massage therapy can be an effective, noninvasive, non-pharmacologic option to manage post-amputation challenges. In the United States, the vast majority of amputations are brought about by circulatory dysfunction. The circulatory system cannot deliver adequate nutrients to cells or remove
spa some specialists to recommend aggressive pain treatment for amputation patients for several days ahead of surgery, in the hope of reducing the risk of lingering postsurgical problems.
PHANTOM LIMB PAIN, CONTRACTURES, MUSCULOSKELETAL INJURY, SCAR TISSUE AND POOR WOUND HEALING ARE ALL ISSUES THAT WELL EDUCATED MASSAGE THERAPISTS MAY BE ABLE TO HELP. Pain, the main amputation complication
BY RUTH WERNER
cord. These carry transmissions up to the somatosensory cortex in the brain, where we become aware of a problem. Scientists have noted that people who undergo extreme pain for long periods of time experience significant changes in nervous system connections. Prolonged pain stimulation induces a hyper-excitable state called windup. In this state, the sensation of pain is exaggerated, and normally irritating stimuli feel more extreme. Unrelieved windup can lead to a condition called central sensitization, in which responses to all sensory input increase (now everything hurts). The area where the pain comes from seems to expand, and spontaneous sensory activity—that is, pain sensation with no observable triggers, becomes frequent. Further, a correlation exists between the length and severity of preoperative pain, and the risk of pain after surgery. This phenomenon has led
The range of postsurgical complications that accompany amputation is dizzying. Some of them, like DVT (deep vein thrombosis), bleeding and pulmonary emobolism are obviously outside the scope of massage therapy. But others, including phantom limb pain, contractures, musculoskeletal injury, scar tissue and poor wound healing are all issues that well educated massage therapists may be able to help. Phantom limb sensation is a phenomenon that most amputees experience, even months or years after surgery. This is a situation where the severed nerve endings of the amputated limb continue to transmit messages to the brain, which interprets them as coming from a part of the body that no longer exists. When those transmissions relay pain, it is often described as extreme burning, stabbing, twisting or crushing pain. And because the “source” of the pain (the amputated limb) is no longer there, relief seems impossible. Pain treatments in conventional medicine typically focus on pharmacologic interventions. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) can reduce irritation at the nerve endings in the peripheral tissues, while opiates and anti-seizure drugs work on pain transmission and modulation within the central nervous system. All of these drugs carry significant risks of negative side effects, and many doctors and patients are invested in finding alternative methods to manage pain in the long term. Phantom limb pain is only one aspect of postsurgical discomfort. The residual limb is also vulnerable to painful muscle spasms. Affected joints may experience a progressive tightening of muscles, tendons and ligaments into permanent continues
AMPUTATION BY THE NUMBERS Number of amputation surgeries per year in the United States
135,000 – 185,000
Ratio of Americans with amputations
1:200
Number of amputees who currently live in the United States
1.7 million
Percentage of amputations due to:
Vascular dysfunction
54
Trauma (including military)
45
Cancer, congenital malformation
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spa|a complex complication
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Massage therapy for amputees? Experienced massage therapists will recognize that most of the complications discussed so far fall well within our scope of practice. Indeed, our ability to identify specific soft tissue injuries and to address issues of anxiety and depression make us an excellent resource for many amputation survivors. In addition, with good guidance and care, the massage therapist can work directly on the amputated stump to help control edema, and to improve the quality of local scar tissue. It is imperative that the skin on the stump moves freely so that a prosthetic device doesn’t cause injury. Pressure sores or bound up and adhered scar tissue can make it impossible for an amputee to comfortably use a prosthetic, thus radically limiting their independence and quality of life. Some specialists specifically recommend massage for recent amputees: “Massage is effective at many levels of pain—tissue level, cognitive level, and nerve level (pain gate). It increases sensory input from the residual limb, and may override the brain’s perception of pain. Early massage can help develop tolerance of the residual limb to touch and pressure.” (Physiotherapy Following Lower Limb Amputation, 2006) What questions do you need to ask your clients who are amputees? You need to know what led to their surgery (trauma, a congenital problem or circulatory dysfunction). Find out what drugs they are taking, especially pain management drugs. To gauge their adaptability, you need to know their level of general activity, and whether they have experienced limited of range of motion in the area of the affected limb. And most of all you need to find out what your clients’ highest priorities are for the time that you spend together. Massage therapy is unique among health care options, with its ability to decrease pain and promote a sense of well-being. Let’s use that capacity to improve the lives of all of our clients, especially those who are amputees. n
Ruth Werner is a writer and National Certification Board for Therapeutic Massage and Bodywork approved provider of continuing education for massage therapists. She wrote A Massage Therapist’s Guide to Pathology, now in its fifth edition. Werner currently serves as president of the Massage Therapy Foundation, a philanthropic organization dedicated to advancing the knowledge and practice of massage therapy by supporting scientific research, education and community service. Contact her at werner87@peak.net.
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Beauty in harmony with nature.
contractures. The rest of the body must compensate for the missing strength and weight of the amputated part, leading to significant stress and the risk of musculoskeletal injury. The depression and anxiety that frequently accompanies amputation surgery have also been linked to exacerbated pain sensation. And poor wound healing at the site of the amputation scar can interfere with prosthetic use and overall recovery.
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SPA SPECIALIZED TREATMENTS THREE MONTHS AFTER UNDERGOING A DOUBLE mastectomy followed by reconstructive surgery for the breasts, I searched for a spa that offered treatments for women recovering from surgeries like mine. I found one. Due to her own history with breast cancer, the wonderfully skilled and compassionate spa owner had decided to offer breast skin care services to a small but growing clientele. My personalized treatment included a detoxifying herbal wrap, a healing scar mask treatment and a gentle massage. I was grateful to this spa for the special attention they paid to my specific needs. It was exactly what I needed to help me along my healing path. Offering specialized spa treatments for individuals who have undergone breast surgeries can provide more women with the opportunity to experience the healing effects of body work, and introduces spa owners to a growing market of potential clients.
BY TERI PEARMAN
The American Society of Plastic Surgeons report that there were 615,400 breast related surgeries in the United States in 2012. These surgeries include augmentations, breast implant removals, lifts and reductions. Approximately 100,000 of those surgeries were related to breast reconstruction as a result of mastectomies. This number represents about 25 percent of women in the U.S. who had mastectomies. Not all women are candidates for breast reconstruction or will choose breast reconstruction after a mastectomy, but it is expected that as women become more aware of their rights and their surgical options, the number of breast reconstruction surgeries will continue to increase. The second USA Breast Reconstruction Awareness Day (Bra Day USA) is being held on October 17, 2013. It is aimed at educating women on their rights under the law, and the many types of reconstruction surgery that are available. Innovative surgical techniques, such as the use of robotics in the surgery
Page 70 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Ersler Dmitry/Shutterstock.com
BREAST RECONSTRUCTION
spa room, and new products like the recent FDA approved “gummy bear” implants, whose shape and texture are purported to be more like natural breast tissue, give women more options than ever before. Increased media coverage of high profile breast reconstruction recipients like Angelina Jolie provides women with role models and helps to demystify the breast reconstruction process. Jolie chose to undergo preventative mastectomies and breast reconstruction after she found out she had a high genetic risk of getting breast cancer. No matter what reason a woman has for deciding to undergo breast reconstruction, whether it is a breast cancer diagnosis or preventative mastectomies, she will have two basic types of breast reconstruction options to choose from. One option with several variations is the autologous tissue reconstruction. In this procedure, a woman’s own tissue from another part of her body (such as her stomach, back or buttock) is used to reconstruct one or both of her breasts. The second option, which is used more often, is breast reconstruction using silicone or saline breast implants. With this option, skin expanders are placed under the pectoral muscle after mastectomy. The patient returns to her plastic surgeon after several weeks, and saline solution is injected into the skin expander to gradually expand the skin and lift the pectoral muscle in preparation for an implant. This process can take several months, and is followed up with a final surgery to remove the expanders and replace them with either saline or silicone implants. After this surgery, the patient may return for further procedures, including nipple reconstruction and micro-pigmentation. Breast reconstruction can be performed either immediately after a mastectomy or years later. Whatever reconstructive process a women chooses, if all goes well she should be ready for gentle spa treatments six to eight weeks after her final surgery, or whenever the stitch lines have completely healed. This article addresses working with clients who have experienced successful breast reconstructive surgeries and are not suffering from complications like lymphedema or infection; as well as those who have been released by their doctor.
Special considerations Treat reconstructed breast skin as you would any other area of very sensitive skin. Mastectomies, even the less destructive surgeries that spare the nipples, require the removal off all the fatty tissue and mammary glands of the breast. The nerves in the breast are permanently damaged, causing a loss of normal breast sensation. The breast may ache, tingle or have stinging and burning sensations months after surgery. Although normal feeling never returns, the aching and burning sensations typically subside. Surgeons are becoming more skilled at hiding scars from mastectomies and breast reconstruction. Although the scars will not totally disappear, they usually fade with time. As with most scar tissue, gentle massage with oil or lotion will help keep the scars soft and pliable, and reduce the tightening and shortening of skin that can distort the breast. More aggressive breast massage may be needed to treat capsular contracSeptember 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
tion, a serious complication for some women, in which scar tissue builds up around the implant. This type of massage is done at the recommendation of a physician, and is not appropriate in a typical spa setting. Take extra care when positioning a client who has experienced breast reconstruction. If her surgery used tissue harvested from her body, she may have additional surgery sites that you need to consider. It can take months for her to be comfortable lying on her stomach. Work with her to find a position, using props if necessary, so that she can relax completely and fully enjoy her treatment.
It’s not uncommon for a woman to feel uncomfortable touching, or having someone else touch her new anatomy. Offer spa treatment menu options that reflect your clients’ different levels of receptivity and comfort. There is conflicting information on the safe use of infrared sauna and silicone implants. Until a specific clinical study concludes that no harm can be done, infrared saunas are not recommended for breast reconstruction clients with implants. As a spa professional, it’s not worth the potential liability risk to you or the health risk for your client.
Spa treatment options It’s not uncommon for a woman to feel uncomfortable touching, or having someone else touch her new anatomy. Offer spa treatment menu options that reflect your clients’ different levels of receptivity and comfort. Aromatherapy and energy work such as reiki or healing touch allow your clients to remain fully clothed, which is perfect for someone who is not ready for hands on treatment. For clients seeking breast skin care treatment, just remember that breast and décolleté skin benefit from the same regime as facial skin: cleansing, detoxifying, exfoliating, toning and moisturizing. You can build your menu around combining all or some of those treatments. Some women develop allergies that did not exist prior to treatment, so avoid animal by-products such as lanolin, beeswax, animal based collagen and products with chemical preservatives and fragrances. The following are three excellent natural ingredients to consider when working with clients who are recovering from breast surgery. Rhassoul (Moroccan) clay is quarry mined in lakeside deposits at the base of the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. Since 700 A.D., the women of the area have cherished this clay for its healing and cleansing properties. Rhassoul clay is very unique; it not only draws out impurities, it is also a smectite clay, and therefore deposits minerals back into the skin. It is high in continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 71
spa|spa specialized treatments naturally occurring silica, magnesium, potassium and calcium, which benefit breast and décolleté skin recovering from breast reconstruction. It actually moisturizes the skin, as well as cleans and detoxifies. The high iron oxide content, giving the clay its red color, helps revitalize the skin’s appearance and brightness. Calendula hydrosol, or rhassoul clay mixed with rosewater, will make a calming mask for the breast, neck and face. Organic sunflower seed oil is surprisingly simple, fairly inexpensive and perfectly suited for use with sensitive breast skin. Recent studies using sunflower seed oil were conducted with low birth weight infants, who are susceptible to infection due to their underdeveloped skin. One study in particular determined that premature infants who received a daily skin massage treatment with sunflower oil were 41 percent less likely to develop infections. Sunflower seed oil works as a non-greasy protective barrier and delivers naturally occurring vitamin A and skin healing vitamin E. When you combine the naturally healing sunflower seed oil with essential oils, you have a powerful yet gentle oil treatment suitable for breast scar tissue massage and breast skin hydration. Geranium rose essential oil has long been used to balance the nervous system and relieve depression and anxiety while lifting the spirit. It has been used for centuries to help balance a woman’s emotions and hormones. Early studies of topical application of geranium rose essential oil mixed in
a carrier oil show promising results for help with temporary relief of the pain associated with shingles. The analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties of geranium rose make it an excellent essential oil for inclusion in your spa treatments for women recovering from breast surgeries. Geranium rose essential oil has a sweet and rosy smell with mint overtones. The scent can be strong, so make sure it is not too overwhelming for your client. For a healing combination, mix geranium rose essential oil with sunflower seed oil. Whatever specialized treatments you offer, don’t underestimate the importance of your role as a spa professional or the value of the service you provide to women recovering from breast reconstruction surgery. n
Breast cancer survivor Teri Pearman is the founder and CEO of Infusion Breast Care Botanicals, LLC, a company specializing in plant based, vegan products formulated specifically for breast skin challenged by cancer treatments and breast surgery. Contact Pearman at info@infusionbcb.com.
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OU T OU OL B O A K CH TS! S S KI A
Lomilomi is a way of life, a path of service. It is about creating lokahi (balance) in your life. It is sharing the Aloha Spirit through kindness, patience and compassion.
Compassionate
TOUCH Healing through Lomilomi
Page 74 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
spa
l
OMILOMI, THE ANCIENT HAWAIIAN healing art, has been known as compassionate touch, originally shared with nonHawaiians by Aunty Margaret Machado. Compas sion is the key to shifting and healing through touch and prayer. Lomilomi practitioners were originally chosen by a kahuna lomilomi, and spent 20 to 30 years studying this art form, which included learning about the cycles of nature and honoring ancestors. Lomilomi always begins with prayer, where a connection is made to ask for the help of one’s ancestors.
The Hawaiian kupuna (elders) revered everything
photo: Radoslaw Lecyk/Shutterstock.com
lomilomi massage
Compassionate touch goes beyond the physical hands, touching the soul deeply and connecting spiritually. In a day and age when so many are stressed out in their lives and others are dealing with illnesses, lomilomi provides the space to calm, relax and be soothed while the nervous system resets itself to create healing for the body. Gently blessing the cells, a practitioner will enter the space of the client respectfully and assist the recipient in undergoing a transformation. Lomilomi is a way of life, a path of service. It is about creating lokahi (balance) in your life. It is sharing the Aloha Spirit through kindness, patience and compassion. Kumu Michael Locey from the island of Kaua’i shared with me that in Hawaiian culture, “mana,” the word for energy or personal power, is unique to the individual. He goes on to explain that we must start with the simple act of giving ourselves the gift of receiving lomilomi, and then we have the potential to give others this compassionate love. Many styles of lomilomi are handed down through the generations of the ohana (a term in Hawaiian culture that means family in an extended sense, including blood-related, adoptive or intentional). Kumu Alva Andrews states that it encompasses over 48 modalities, including nutrition and laughter. Traditionally, it begins with a detoxification program, as it is believed that one continues
BY GLORIA COPPOLA
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 75
spa|compassionate touch Place stones in the bowl throughout the day when you notice you are not living in the light. At the end of the day, look at your bowl to remind yourself how you are becoming stone because of your negative thinking patterns.
The tools the Hawaiians teach to raise awareness are simple and profound. For example, the story that we are all created with a bowl of light shows us how, as pure spiritual light beings, we can become more negative when belief systems on our path put out our life.
must cleanse the internal body before receiving the massage portion of the treatment. Andrews explains that the body is not ready to receive massage until it is cleared energetically as well. The kupuna (elders) also teach that healing comes through forgiveness. The process of Ho’oponopono is used to clear the emotional pain and cut the cords that bind us to the place, situation or person. They believe that illness is also caused by holding onto this emotional pain, which necessitates this process of forgiving. My personal experience with lomilomi has taught me to receive on a deeper level and explore more options for my personal healing journey; it has also helped me to experience immense growth on my spiritual path. According to Pema Chödrön, a notable American figure in Tibetan Buddhism, our lives are like a mandala, and we stand in the middle of this circle. She states that we have the choice to enter the sacred world; it is up to us. Lomilomi has been a sacred path for me. It has changed my life and my perspective. It has helped me grow and heal physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually by receiving and giving compassion. The tools the Hawaiians teach to raise awareness are simple and profound. For example, the story that we are all created with a bowl of light shows us how, as pure spiritual light beings, we can become more negative when belief systems on our path put out our life. They created this simple tool: Place stones in a bowl throughout the day when you notice you are not living in the light. At the end of
the day, look at your bowl to remind yourself that you are becoming stone because of your negative thinking patterns. You are, however, given another opportunity each night to Huli (turn over) the bowl, and start every day living in the light. This tool raises your awareness simply, and soon you will find yourself changing your attitude. You will become more compassionate toward others and less judgmental, and it is a great tool for children as well. This system of healing is all encompassing. The foundation supports your life, and the compassion will heal you and others, whether through words or touch. n treatment photography by Visio Photography; courtesy of Gloria Coppola
Gloria Coppola is an author, educator and life coach. She teaches across the United States and has been in the healing arts for 30 years. She is the author of Both Ends of the Rainbow: Lomilomi, A Healing Journey. Coppola loves sharing what she learns in life, and has written for many holistic journals. She is also the founder and executive director of the nonprofit organization, Massage Without Borders. To contact her, visit GloriaCoppola.com.
Page 76 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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Contact controlcorrective.com | 866.290.4290 | info@controlcorrective.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #272 on reader service card
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CUTTING-EDGE SOLUTION The CryoSkin by Skin Care Consultants effectively addresses hyperpigmentation and other unwanted skin conditions. The cutting-edge device treats age spots, sun spots, warts and keloids. It is also very useful for permanent makeup correction. Lightweight, compact and portable, treatments with the CryoSkin are remarkably rapid and painless, says the company. Between one and three treatments are necessary, in intervals, with visible results within four to six weeks. lamskin.com 877.751.2722
GROUNDBREAKING GLOW Tan in the Raw provides fresh tanning products and concepts to the tanning market. The airbrush tanning professionals of Tan in the Raw have skillfully conceptualized and combined all the needs of their clients. The company has exclusively formulated the very first odor neutralizing post tan treatment for any tan. This product and concept, along with ultraviolet based tanning solutions, delivers excellence and satisfaction, says the company. Technicians can provide sensational services with Tan in the Raw formulas or retail it to clients for individual use. tanintheraw.com 888.627.8207
SKIN CARE FOR EVERYWHERE! Primp Your Peach is a bold, unique skin care line specifically designed to help women deal with the hush-hush issues that come with being a woman, including ugly ingrown hairs, discolorations and varicose veins. All Primp Your Peach products are formulated to be effective enough for private areas, yet gentle enough to use on the face, says the company. primpyourpeach.com 866.889.9050
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PLEASE VISIT US AT THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA, LONG BEACH, CA, AT BOOTHS 412 AND 414
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business
renew your menu, expand your income! by Dori Soukup
INNOVATION AND CREATIVITY are essential to maintaining your competitive edge, ensuring growth and increasing client retention. Spa suppliers are constantly striving to discover new ingredients, manufacturing processes, equipment and products to help consumers look and feel their very best. As a spa leader, it is your responsibility to stay abreast of all the new and exciting treatments that are introduced by suppliers, and to select the right offerings for your clients. Ideally, you should assess and revise your menu once a year. Evaluate • Which treatments are selling • The needs of your target market (this can be determined through surveys) • The most popular price points • The most popular treatment duration • The most popular retail products
Popular trends to keep in mind when renewing your menu For the face: Esthetic oncology treatments are gaining popularity. Esthe ticians can get certified to do facials on cancer patients. Offering this type of treatment sets you apart from other spas, compassionately addressing the needs of people who require specialized help. For the body: Slimming treatments are ideal for any spa menu. Whether you use equipment or simply a body wrap, you fulfill the needs of many consumers who are seeking to lose a few inches and slim down. Offering slimming body treatments fulfills the needs of a large target market, helping to position you as a results-driven spa. For hair: We always hear about antiaging treatments for the face and body,
but we do not often hear about it for hair. Offer an anti-aging hair treatment and increase your revenue per guest. Addressing hair and scalp changes will generate more revenue while increasing guest satisfaction. For medi-spa wellness programs: Weight management is one of the biggest challenges facing our nation. If you operate a medi-spa, go beyond offering just Botox, fillers, laser hair removal, etc. Include an effective weight management program with healthy living coaching. For nails (hands and feet): Like hair, we rarely offer an upgrade opportunity for anti-aging hand treatments. This can easily be recommended to almost every person who is receiving a mani or pedi treatment. Use any anti-aging brush-on mask from your facial line and offer it as an upgrade, or as a regular anti-aging manicure treatment. For wellness: Consider including energy healing in your service offerings. Energy healing comes in many forms. You can offer reiki, shiatsu, acupuncture, reflexology and sound therapy. When these modalities are paired with massage, energy healing can facilitate a deeper sense of relaxation and well-being. Retail: If you want to increase your retail sales, consider creating a beauty or skin care bar. Give your clients the opportunity to try and sample your products. Department stores have been doing this for years and are very successful at it. Yet in the spa business, we keep everything locked up or put away. If you want to sell more products, you have to make them accessible to your clients. Spa gifts: Every business sells gift cards, but rarely do we see retail products as part of the offering. Create gift card packages for treatments and products to increase your sales exponentially!
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Memberships: Offering a membership program at your spa is a great way to increase retention and produce a guaranteed monthly income. People love to belong. Look at the fitness industry—facilities don’t rely on selling endless à la carte visits to the same returning individuals; people purchase memberships to join. It takes a little planning, the right pricing and software to manage your membership program, not to mention a good team to sell it. Memberships maximize your revenue and increase your retention. Best of all, your clients get the results they are seeking! Loyalty: Loyalty programs are great! Again, look at the airline industry. They have had loyalty programs for years. I speak at many tradeshows, and when I ask everyone in the audience who has a loyalty program to raise their hands, very few go up. Why is that? Implementing a loyalty program will increase your retention and reward your clients for being true to you and your brand! To complete the menu makeover process, conduct a survey or focus group to learn more about your target market’s needs. Then create a menu that addresses those needs. It’s a win-win for everyone! n
Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com. LNEONLINE.com • Page 81
marketing ONCOLOGY ESTHETICS
photo: ra2studio/Shutterstock.com
PROMOTION AND COMPASSION ARE NOT MUTUALLY EXCLUSIVE
Page 82 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
business
THE THOUGHT OF ACTIVELY MARKETING to oncology patients is one that many estheticians find distasteful. Fortunately, when it comes to esthetics services, the patients do not see it that way. Those battling cancer often complain that they are inundated with inappropriate marketing, particularly during widespread events like Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Slapping a pink ribbon on something does not magically make it “cancer aware.” Esthetics services, however, are appropriate. Incredibly, wildly, desperately appropriate. Informing the oncology community that there is someone nearby who is qualified to serve people with cancer is a gift, not an imposition. As with any group, oncology patients do not share a hive mind. Each person has their own priorities and reactions, but marketing is about identifying issues that commonly occur within the group, and finding ways to speak to those issues.
Fear Cancer and cancer treatments come with numerous new fears. For the purposes of this article, the relevant ones are loss of self, repelling others and infection. In your marketing materials, include items that help to assuage these fears.
BY ERIKA FRANKEL
• List any related training or certifications. • Mention your infection control and sterilization procedures. • Emphasize the person, not the cancer. • Make it clear that you know what to expect.
Examples “As licensed estheticians specializing in oncol ogy, we understand the effects of chemotherapy and radiation, and provide a variety of safe, gentle treatments specially designed to replen ish and restore your skin.“ “My experience with supporting my sister during her battle with breast cancer inspired me to find out the best, safest, and most ef fective therapies for people undergoing cancer treatments.”
“I adhere to the highest standards in ster ilization and infection control.”
Lack of knowledge People receiving chemotherapy or radiation treatments are being actively poisoned. They do not feel good. They do not feel attractive. They do not feel clean. They certainly do not feel healthy. They may not know that an esthetician can help with all of that. Your marketing materials need to communicate what is good about your services, because many people have never experienced them and do not understand what you can provide. Oncology patients may not know that your services can make them experience wonderful feelings that they have not felt in a long time, even if it is only for an hour.
• Use words that evoke a sense of relief, lightness and cleanliness. • Emphasize a positive self-image. • Include words that non-estheticians understand. For example, they may not know what exfoliating does or how it feels. • Address their fear of exposing scars and other physical damage.
Examples “Our deep-cleansing facial gently lifts away toxins and exfoliates dead skin, leaving you feeling like yourself again.” “Massage can soothe your stress, restore your circulation and reduce your pain. Due to your treatments, we understand that you may prefer to leave certain areas covered and that’s fine.”
Need for normalcy Esthetics treatments offer oncology patients an opportunity to feel normal. Your marketing materials should communicate to these individuals that, while you are aware of their needs, you think of them as you do anyone else, as opposed to “cancer” people. For example, instead of separating out oncology-oriented services, consider marking appropriate treatments with an icon or tag, like continues
LNEONLINE.com • Page 83
business|marketing oncology esthetics Burnt out caregivers Some oncology patients are going it alone, but many have someone at their side. That person is likely to be stressed, exhausted and deeply drained from constantly trying to maintain a positive attitude for somebody else. Sometimes, the caregiver desperately needs for somebody to take care of them for a while. Gift certificates provide an opportunity for the patients, family members and friends to do something nice for the primary caregiver. Side-by-side treatments give the patient and the primary caregiver a chance to spend feel-good time together that has nothing to do with cancer. As an esthetician, you have a lot to offer an oncology patient. Don’t be afraid to say so! n
Gift certificates provide an opportunity for the patients, family members and friends to do something nice for the primary caregiver. Side-byside treatments give the patient and the primary caregiver a chance to spend feel-good time together that has nothing to do with cancer.
the way some restaurants mark menu items that are glutenfree or low-carb. This allows these treatment offerings to be seamlessly included in the mainstream menu of services. Use language that supports a sense of autonomy. The tendency is to talk about how the client can just relax and the esthetician will take care of everything. Keep in mind, however, that these particular people spend a lot of time lying on tables having unpleasant things done to them while they try to stay calm. Instead of talking about what you will do for (or to) them, talk about how esthetics treatments are something they do for themselves. Don’t say, “Your skin will be treated to a nutrient-rich moisturizer.” Instead, try something like: “Treat your skin to a nutrient-rich moisturizer.”
Erika Frankel is a partner and senior project manager for Hammer Data Systems, LLC, a software and website development firm located in northeast Ohio. She specializes in information management, website design and online marketing. Frankel has been involved with the skin care industry for over seven years. She can be contacted at erika@hammerdata.com.
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by Karym Urdaneta and Melissa Montalvo
business|
2. Partner with the right organization
cause marketing
does your event match your message?
1. Knowledge is power Education is the most important element of this topic, and your campaign must revolve around it. Research information from reputable sources, and share important facts regarding the topic. For instance, according to Breast Cancer Action and Breast Cancer Fund: a. In the 1960s, a woman’s lifetime risk for breast cancer was one in twenty. Today it is one in eight.
b. Seventy percent of people with breast cancer have none of the known risk factors (such as family history, late menopause or having children later in life).
Find women through your clients who are going through this struggle, and offer them pampered relief at no cost. Your clients will relish the opportunity to help women from their community.
c. Non-industrialized countries have lower breast cancer rates than industrialized countries. d. Synthetic chemicals called “xenoestrogens” act like estrogen (a hormone closely linked with the development of breast cancer) in our bodies, and are found extensively in many industries. e. In April 2010, the President’s Can cer Panel urged the Commander in Chief “to use the power of [his] office to remove carcinogens and other toxins from our food, water, and air.” The facts are endless, and your spa can become a pinnacle of information on women’s health and beauty. Pamper your clients and make them “as pretty as pink,” but also empower them to fight for their health by focusing on changing the conversations we have about cancer, in order to demand changes in our society that actually lead to eradication of the disease. The change we want in the world begins with you.
of the general public. Partner with an organization that represents the same values as your company.
3. The thin line between cause marketing and marketing for a cause An interesting article in Forbes Magazine indicates how cause marketing is a winwin partnership between a company and a cause, unless the company is only doing it for “charity” and “to look good.” It is a social responsibility and a valuable key to the success of every business. With that responsibility comes transparency. If your company fails to do what it claims to do from a social aspect, your customers will find out, and your credibility will be affected. It is important that when you choose a cause to advocate, whether it is breast cancer or animal cruelty, you are marketing for the cause and demonstrating sincere passion instead continues
Page 86 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Elena Schweitzer/Shutterstock.com
NEXT MONTH, ALSO REFERRED to as “Pink October,” is filled with marketing campaigns and events supporting one of the largest causes in America and the world: Breast Cancer Awareness. Many spas take this opportunity to be part of something that affects all women, and emphasize “celebrating” the pink month by communicating the importance of breast cancer awareness in their own creative ways. Before developing a campaign or a fundraiser, here are some questions to reflect on: How is your campaign directly impacting the community, specifically those that are affected by breast cancer? How are you educating women on this important issue? What is the message you want to convey, and is your event communicating this message? In order to have a successful event, there are certain elements required when campaigning for a cause. Success is determined by the clarity of your message. Consider the following primary elements:
Many organizations advocate for the same causes. Working with one of the largest organizations may not be what your spa event needs. Search for local organizations, research them and try working with them. This makes it more personal and “closer to home.” You can make a suitable choice by visiting sites such as guidestar.org or charitynavigator.org to review charities. Keep in mind that it is important to be associated with reputable partners. Avoid bad publicity. The news is flooded with stories about companies that must end their endorsement of a certain celebrity or drop their partnerships with some organization due to a “mistake” made by said celebrity or organization that affected the opinions
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card
business|cause marketing of using the cause only to market your business. Consumers have become incredibly savvy; therefore, your company must be up to par.
4. Authentic corporate commitment According to a study on consumer behavior from Edelman, the world’s largest public relations firm, 66 percent of people globally believe it is no longer enough for corporations to simply give money away. Consumers respect those companies that integrate good causes into their daily business activi-
ties. Would it make sense to provide pink cupcakes at your event when cancer thrives on refined sugar? Instead, offer rose tea and organic fruits and veggies. Having unhealthy finger food defeats the purpose of your message. There are countless inexpensive healthy recipes out there. If we are supporting the eradication of breast cancer, does it make sense to continue to use skin care products that contain toxic chemicals—including carcinogens? If your spa does not currently offer all natural and toxin-free skin care products, then take the opportunity to embrace breast can-
cer awareness, and show true activism toward improving women’s beauty and health through your company’s values.
5. Engage your clients Fundraising for your cause by requesting donations from your clients is not a terrible idea, but you can do better. Barkley, the largest 100 percent employee owned ad agency in the United States, reported that a great number of people, specifically Millennials, would rather be actively engaged in cause campaigns. Get your clients involved in your cause. Besides holding an event off business-hours, your spa can also design a specific treatment for cancer victims and request that your regular clients match the funds required to provide such a treatment. For example, for every $100 dollars raised to cover one treatment, your spa can match it by providing another treatment for a cancer victim. Find women through your clients who are going through this struggle, and offer them pampered relief at no cost. Your clients will relish the opportunity to help women from their community. Demonstrate how important this issue is, and how you and your team genuinely contribute to the ultimate goal behind advocating for breast cancer awareness in the first place: to eradicate it. Be bold and connect all of these elements, keeping in mind that the core of it all is your genuine passion for the cause. Share this passion through your overall message in every aspect. Your clients will acknowledge it, and your business practice will thrive because of it. n
Melissa Montalvo, biomedical engineer and engineer Karym Urdaneta are the cofounders of Pink Horizons Botanical Skin Care. They are considered industry leaders, proudly maintaining a “Champion” status with the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, educating the community on holistic living and sustainable business practices. For more information on toxin-free skin care, visitpinkhorizons.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #271 on reader service card
Page 88 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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To place an order contact us at 877.682.7949 or visit us at www.MEG21.com for more information Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #344 on reader service card
business
MAKE THE
CHANGE NEVER SETTLE FOR LESS
BY DAVID SUZUKI by this school for such a long period of time, especially considering how important our son’s education is to us? The pursuit of finding another educational facility began soon after this last meeting. When we began touring some other options and discussing our problem with others, we wondered why we had waited so long to consider making a change. At the school we finally settled on, the principal told us that his school is a business, and that the students are his customers. What a novel idea!
Change is frightening We as humans are creatures of habit. From the food we eat, the stores we shop at and the route we choose to drive home from work each day, we are very robotic in the ways we function. In general, the idea of changing something within our routine is frightening. There is no real logic behind the fear; we are merely worried because it is different than what we are currently doing, and it is unknown. This fear is so ingrained in our culture that people would rather continue using a product or service that is inadequate than to confront the idea of making a change. The bigger and more significant the change, the more hesitation we generally have. Not knowing how something is going to turn out may seem risky, while at
the same time a positive change can significantly improve your life and business. My family’s recent experience with switching schools attests to this. If you settle for less, you get less. It is as simple as that.
Positive change While the concept of making a positive change is straightforward and logical, it can be a very steep mountain to climb, and the confusion as to how to begin the journey can come with overwhelming anxiety. As a result, we often take the tactic of an ostrich, burying our heads in the sand and hoping that somehow things will look different when we resurface. And they do not. It is only time that has gone by as we pick up where we left off with the status quo. The key to positive change is to keep it simple. Rather than turn the entire apple cart upside down at once, make many small changes frequently. Small changes are very palatable, easier to decide upon, and in aggregate can have a profoundly positive impact on your life and business. Network with friends and other professionals. Find out who they collaborate with, cost factors and their opinion of the results. Regardless of whether it is an equipment supplier, laundry service, continues
Page 90 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: AXL/Shutterstock.com
FOR SEVEN YEARS, OUR YOUNGest son attended a local private school. The culture of this school is very definitive, with a significant focus on discipline and order. These are two attributes that my wife and I respect and believe to be important. However, as seasoned parents we understand that the primary objective of learning should not be lost in an obsessive pursuit of discipline. Unfortunately, that is what occurred in this school over the last several years. To shed some light on our frustrations, our last meeting with our son’s teacher for his mid-term review last spring went as follows: She spent 25 out of the 30 minutes allotted for the meeting to discuss his role in the brightly colored “sock revolution” that was taking over the school. During the last five minutes, she casually mentioned he was struggling in math and should start seeing a tutor. Ensuring that our children receive the best possible education is a top priority, yet over the years we have somehow rationalized and settled for something that was far less than acceptable. If we had been this discontent with the service at a restaurant or store, we would never return. If a vendor treated us this way, we would find another. Why then, would we put up with such treatment
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business|make the change
utility options or an accountant, always look for the best value matched with the best service and result. The price should be considered, as it is part of the “value” system. At the same time, price should never be the sole determining factor when selecting a new partner to work with. Sometimes paying a bit more for better quality is the best investment you can make to simplify your business, free up time, eliminate hassles and increase financial gains.
Stay the course If you decide to make a change and your first choice does not work out, change again. Remember that moving from a dysfunctional vendor or supplier was your first epiphany. Finding a new vendor, the right vendor, is now your mission. Yes, it can take some time and effort, but in the end it is well worth the investment of both. Some view change as a hassle. I view it as an opportunity. An opportunity to improve my business and my life, and to support another business that I believe in. There is nothing worse than giving your money to a vendor who gives you terrible service! Also keep in mind that a friend or peer’s selection of a vendor or service may not meet your criterion. Yes, references are an excellent place to begin your search. However, it is important to embrace the fact that we are all unique, and as such we all maintain a different definition of value and quality. In short, always think for yourself. Following the herd of sheep is how we have aimlessly arrived at many inadequate destinations in our lives.
Change is empowering Some of the smallest changes can make the biggest impact on your life and your business. Whether it is a timely dry cleaner that does a fantastic job or a vendor who understands your business, knows who you are, and can help you plan your inventory needs each week—it is the small changes that aggregate together to define and create a complete model shift. Change can be empowering and contagious. Once you make one change and gain a positive outcome, it generally inspires you to power through many additional changes. This experience modifies the perception of change from fear to opportunity, which is a very exhilarating feeling! While the excitement is revving up, always remember to leave yourself enough time to do the proper vetting of all new perspective partners, as the last thing that you want to do is trade one bad partner for another. We are exclusively shooting for positive forward movement.
Big change Big changes in life are always the most difficult. Those that involve our family, friends, finances and emotions are always tough—and for good reason. It is much easier to decide to change the dry cleaner you are using than to commit to moving your business to another location. At the same time, it is
often the big changes that have the most significant impact on our lives. Tackling big changes should be thought about and addressed like any major project, in that we must work on it a little bit all the time. The key to this method is “all the time.” As you are evolving through the process of change piece by piece, plenty of ideas may occur to you that could be worth discussing with your current vendor, landlord or partner. Nobody is perfect, and sometimes things are the way that they are for no specific reason. If the other party is willing to take your ideas into consideration and implement some of them, this is a viable solution that could ignite change from within. You may be surprised at how receptive many businesses will be to your requests. Regardless of the outcome, the request is always worth the effort. Ultimately, it either initiates the change requested or clarifies that you must look elsewhere.
Change or invest? Is there a point where what you are looking for is unrealistic? Probably. You must explore all possibilities to make this determination. In your final assessment, if you determine that you are working with the best fit for yourself and your business, then the only option is to invest. Invest the time with your vendor, sales rep or supplier. Let them know what your expectations are, tell them that you appreciate their efforts, and explain the modifications you would like to see that will benefit your business. In the end, this approach will build a stronger, more positive relationship with them. After all, this is what partnership is all about; common interests, mutual goals and shared responsibility. Let’s face it, there is nothing easy about change, hence the reason that we avoid it as often as possible. However, there is absolutely no progress or growth when we accept mediocrity. Making changes in our lives can be mentally and physically draining—even overwhelming at times. The good news is that the freedom and exhilaration of creating something new, more effective, more successful and clearly more beneficial for you and your company far outweighs the stress of the change. The realization that you are an active decision maker in your life is freedom. Freedom to be great, freedom to succeed, freedom to do anything that you can dream of. Never settle for anything less than the best. You are worth it! n David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com.
Page 92 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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by Michelle Seiler-Tucker
brand | business loyalty?
or location loyalty? in a strip mall with high visibility anchors such as Target, Walmart or Office Depot? Do prospects constantly walk by your business on the way to a coffee shop or grocery store?
If your business can be relocated anywhere in the United States, there will be a much larger buying pool. Relocatable businesses sell like hotcakes!
Consumers come with a set of behaviors, habits and routines that are sometimes impossible to break or change. It depends on the brand loyalty that the customers have toward a particular business. If clients truly have brand loyalty toward the business, then they will follow it regardless of location. If the business does not have their brand loyalty, then the clients won’t follow it. It’s that simple. You need to know your business. Does your business have brand loyalty or is it predicated on your location? Below are more questions, thoughts and ideas you should ponder before pricing your business and putting it on the market.
Do you have a brick and mortar location? If so, how long has your business been located there? Is your business in a high traffic area? Does it have a lot of visibility? Do you have plenty of signage? Are you
Is your business predicated on location? Do you have brand loyalty or location loyalty? If you have location loyalty, then hopefully you have a long-term lease with lots of options and great terms. It is also good if your lease is transferable and/or you can sublease. If your business is dependent on location loyalty and the buyer cannot transfer the lease or negotiate a new lease with the landlord, then you have nothing to sell! It is obviously better to have brand loyalty versus location loyalty. Brand loyalty is powerful. You never know what may happen to your location. Locations are vulnerable to storms, fire and crazy landlords. If your business is predicated on location, then make sure your lease is recorded. Landlords can make or break a deal. Keep in mind that if you put your business on the market and have a month-to-month lease, then the buyer can and will go behind your
back and negotiate with the landlord, and there is nothing you can do about it. Sign a lease and protect yourself prior to putting your business on the market.
How long has your business been at this location? This answer too will determine if you can relocate your business or not. Is your business relocatable? If so, how far can it be moved? If your business can be relocated anywhere in the United States, there will be a much larger buying pool. Relocatable businesses sell like hotcakes!
Do you operate your business out of your home? There are many home-based businesses these days that do very well and generate great profits. These types of businesses are easy to sell, because there is no lease involved and they are relocatable. Buyers are intrigued and interested in being able to operate their business from home. This way they can have a great home-based business and spend more time with their families. Some businesses are operated in an office space that is a separate building on the owner’s land, which is typically close to the owner’s home. This could be a good option for the buyer as long as the seller is willing to sell the building and the land it sits on, or lease the building to the buyer. continues
Page 94 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Shane Shaw/Shutterstock.com
EVERY BUSINESS IS UNIQUE. One key characteristic that differentiates businesses from one another is that some are predicated on locations and others are not. It depends on the industry.
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business|brand loyalty?
A triple net lease means the lessee pays the rent, property taxes and insurance. You cannot establish rental rates and terms unless you are clear on your expenses.
Visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Long Beach, CA, at booth 413
Either option can work for both parties. Sometimes the owner is willing to sell the office building on the land along with their home. This too is a good option for a buyer, especially out-of-state buyers.
Do you own the real estate? Owning the real estate is a huge benefit for sellers. It provides you with a lot more options to offer buyers. In addition, owning the real estate enlarges your pool of buyers, and more people will be interested in looking at your business and the real estate. It also provides you with more versatility. You can sell the building, lease to purchase, or simply lease the space to the buyer who is purchasing your business. You can also sell the building to someone other than the buyer of your business. If your building is located on prime real estate, especially a corner location, then that opens up even more possibilities for larger tenants, such as drug stores and fast food chains. The possibilities are endless, especially if the business is relocatable; then you can capitalize on selling both. If you own the real estate, then you should have an appraisal done. If you do not get an appraisal, then obtain one as soon as possible. If your appraisal is old, then have another appraisal done.
Leasing your property If you are going to lease your property, then you need to know a few things and do research on the following items listed below. What is the cost of your mortgage, property taxes and insurance? Hopefully you know your square footage. You need to know what the rents are going for in your community. A triple net lease means the lessee pays the rent, property taxes and insurance. You cannot establish rental rates and terms unless you are clear on your expenses. You
will also have to decide how long the lease will be, and how many options and rental increases you are willing to offer. Remember, it has to be in line with other comparables, and it has to make sense for the buyer. Otherwise, you may lose on the sale of your business if you do not offer favorable terms on your property lease. Leasing your property is another way to secure seller financing. You should tie the lease to the seller financing payments. If the buyer of the business does not make their payments, then you will have the right to evict them and take over the business. In summary, know whether or not you have brand loyalty or location loyalty before selling your business. If your business is based upon location loyalty rather than brand loyalty, then you may want to consider hiring a professional to assist you in building your brand before or during the selling process. n
Michelle Seiler-Tucker is the author of Sell Your Business for More Than it’s Worth, and the co-author of the upcoming book Think and Grow Rich Today: The World’s Leading Experts Reveal how They are Using the Classic Principles of Napoleon Hill to Think and Grow R i c h To d a y ! Seiler-Tucker has owned and operated eight successful businesses. She is also a founding partner of Capital Business Consultants Franchise and the founder/ president of Capital Business Solutions, Better Business Brokers, The Business Doctors and Advanced Medical Rehab.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #189
Page 96 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
by Pamela Stellema
silent | business sabotage
MOST SPA AND SALON OWNERS are aware of the fact that much of their business strength lies in the actions (or lack of action) that their employees take. Your employees need to be an extension of you, the business owner. They must share the same values and beliefs
the staff had also decided it was only fair that they should get product for free, and thus routinely helped themselves to retail stock. I also found out later that the cash register seldom balanced at the end of the day. It was always under, but never over.
photo: Alan Poulson Photography/Shutterstock.com
This silent sabotage clearly shows how easily unhappy employees can damage your business from within, and how important it is to be vigilant in recognizing the obvious signs.
as you when it comes to creating and delivering excellence to the salon and your clients. However, this is often not the case, and disgruntled employees can truly become the greatest enemies your business can have. The following story about the time I visited my regular sylist on the owner’s day off is a perfect illustration of this messy issue. As the stylist was working on my hair, she quickly began to share her thoughts about her “terrible” boss. She told me how money hungry her employer was, and that none of the staff ever received a proper lunch break or got paid for the overtime they worked. In her mind, her boss deserved very little loyalty and no extra effort. To help compensate for that, it was the normal practice of the employees to turn away walkins on those days when the boss wasn’t around. Apparently, she and the rest of
This is what I like to call “silent sabotage.” It is not rare by any means, and goes on more often than most owners would like to admit. Employees, who don’t want to speak out about perceived injustices and risk losing their jobs, can resort to these detrimental activities to get what they consider to be fair compensation. This silent sabotage clearly shows how easily unhappy employees can damage your business from within, and how important it is to be vigilant in recognizing the obvious signs.
Warning signs • Employees leave large gaps of catch up work to complete between appointments. • Employees reject requests for walkin or last minute appointments when you are not around.
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
• The re-booking rate is very low. • Your employees call in sick with little consideration of clients’ appointments. • Employees are over-using or wasting product during services. • Employees are making no attempt to upsell services. • Retail sales are always down on the days when you are not present. • Retail and professional stock is always missing. • The cash register rarely balances. • The salon always looks messy. • Client complaints are increasing. • Salon policies are disregarded by employees. • Employees resist attending team meetings. These behaviors are among the many ways that employees may be sabotaging your business. Once a single member of your staff begins doing this, the behavior spreads rapidly throughout the rest of your team. So what should you do to make sure these problems are not affecting your business? To begin with, it is important continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 97
business|silent sabotage
to have consistent, clear communication with your employees. If your business runs regular team meetings, it is important that you encourage your employees to speak up and share their ideas. They should also be encouraged to come to
acknowledging someone who has done a good job with a “thank you” can go a long way toward making an employee feel more valued. It is often the small but everyday things you do that will count the most.
Every employee must be treated with respect. They need to be paid fairly and on time, and they must receive any commission or expected entitlements.
you in private to discuss any grievances they may have. You must assure them that you will give their complaints a fair hearing, and act upon them if need be. Small efforts on your part can have a big influence on the attitude your employees bring to the workplace. Simply
Finally, every employee must be treated with respect. They need to be paid fairly and on time, and they must receive any commission or expected entitlements. Failure to do this is a blatant invitation to them to silently sabotage your business. Employee respect and
loyalty must be earned. You do not automatically receive it just because your are the boss. n
Pam Stellema is the principal coach and founder of SalonSavy, where she provides specialized industry-based coaching to clients through telephone conversations. Stellema has previously owned and operated several highly successful salons, and specializes in maximizing salon productivity and profits. She can be contacted via telephone at 011 617 55296467.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #276 on reader service card
Page 98 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
GIVING BACK Éminence Organic Skin Care participated in the BC Children’s Hospital Miracle Weekend recently, where company founder Boldijarre Koronczay presented their fundraising efforts live at the telethon. Through staff donations, a holiday auction and corporate matching, Éminence donated $11,073 to the BC Children’s Hospital Foundation, and $18.4 million was raised throughout the weekend. Koronczay also had the opportunity to share his personal history with childhood leukemia. After beating the odds at a young age, he has dedicated his life to creating healthy, organic options for skin care while giving back to charitable organizations and lifesaving programs. ”Beating the disease was the first time that I realized my own personal strength and determination to overcome adversity. I want to do everything I can to give others the same chance,” he says. eminenceorganics.com 888.747.6342
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Diane Buccola releases her second book, The Heart of Esthetics, available both in paperback and on Kindle. It offers clarity, specific solutions, proven strategies and the “magic” ingredient to success that seems to be entirely overlooked these days. Whether you are a sole esthetician or work at a luxury resort spa, this book invites you to unlearn just about everything you have been taught or thought you knew about how to be successful in the field of esthetics. happyesthetician.com
BIZNEWS
TIPS OF THE TRADE
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE MORE NEWS
CONTEST ANNOUNCEMENT NovaLash’s third annual Lash Off Contest offers makeup artists a chance to steal the spotlight—and win $15,000 in prizes! Running from November 1st to November 31st, 2013, the upcoming Lash Off Contest has two categories: Lash Artist of the Year, which comes with $10,000 in awards and prizes, and Fan’s Choice Winner, which boasts a $5,000 prize package. To enter your lash-tastic skills in the Lash Artist of the Year contest, submit a one-to-three minute video depicting yourself applying NovaLash eyelashes and using the proper NovaLash technique. To throw yourself into the ring for Fan’s Choice, submit three each “before” and “after” shots of your best work. The winners in both categories will be selected in December and announced on January 1, 2014. After that, each artist will be given the serious credibility that comes with winning the world’s only eyelash competition! novalash.com/lashoff 866.430.1261 LNEONLINE.com • Page 99
CERTIFICATION PROGRAM
BIZNEWS
Learn from one of the industry’s top educators! Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner, owner of the Aesthetic Science Institute, has created the Aesthetics Fundamentals Certification Program. This course is designed for the licensed professional who needs a brush-up on the basics, the licensed cosmetologist considering a shift from hair to skin; and the hundreds of people working in retail and direct skin care sales! aestheticscienceinstitute.edu 518.786.0760
CELEBRATION ON THE SEA This month, Bellus Academy was proud to introduce the Master Esthetician Board while sponsoring a Great Gatsby-themed event with The Spa Connection. The event was held on June 6 in San Diego aboard the High Spirits, a pedigreed yacht built in 1929 with Prohibition-era décor and antique furnishings. The affair was a private, exclusive cruise down the San Diego Bay for vendors and other spa industry professionals. “We welcomed more than 100 spa directors and buyers together with 20 spa suppliers,” said Joanne Berry, Bellus Academy’s director of spa and wellness. “Our platinum sponsor was ResortSuite, and representatives were on hand to greet guests to the retro red carpet with a glass of champagne.” thespaconnect.com bellusacademy.edu
DEBUT IN MIAMI! Miami’s first ever makeup academy is set to launch in September! The Media Make Up Academy, which already has locations in New York and Chicago, is now opening its newest location in South Beach. Celebrity makeup artist Amanda Shackleton, who founded the New York City and Chicago facilities in 2009, is teaching the classes along with other professional makeup artists. Students will learn the art of makeup and the important business end of the industry as well. mediamakeupacademy.com 917.334.6155
A CHANCE TO LEND SUPPORT The Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics of South Jersey supports breast cancer survivors through their National Day of Hope. On October 29, 2013, founder Rose Marie Beauchemin invites you to offer survivors a complimentary 3-dimensional areola tattooing to help give them back a sense of completeness. beauinstitute.com 856.727.1411
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE
Page 100 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
organic & wellness radiation to radiant
photo: Nenov Brothers Images/Shutterstock.com
by Cassandra Rafuse
M Y M OT H E R C R A N E D H E R neck in an attempt to glimpse her bare back in the mirror. “You can’t really see them, can you?” she remarked, peering at her reflection. “Well, they’re only small tattoos. They’re just for lining you up with the beam.” To try to make the best out of the situation, I added that we could always play connect the dots. I understand from firsthand experience the challenges of taking care of someone who has cancer, and the heartache and healing process from radiation treatments. More than half of all cancer patients undergo radiation therapy, which is available in three different forms. Unlike radiology, which is the use of radiation for medical imaging, such as taking X-rays and performing CT and MRI scans, radiation oncology is a prescribed treatment. It can be employed as a curative or therapeutic treatment by itself, or it can be used before, during and after other therapies, such as chemotherapy. In palliative care, it can bring relief from symptoms, improve quality of life and possibly extend lifespan by providing medical professionals with a method to control the disease as it progresses. Radiation therapy is not limited to treating cancer; patients suffering from benign tumors and non-malignant diseases, such as inflammatory, degenerative and blood disorders may also benefit from this treatment. We have been taught that radiation is detrimental to health, as evidenced by the sun’s UV rays and radioactive fallout from nuclear disasters. However, radiation therapy is highly concentrated and precisely directed—patients are often permanently marked to ensure that the treatment only targets specific areas. When treating cancer, the aim is to damage the
DNA inside the cancer cells. Due to the special properties these cells possess, they cannot repair the damage, and when they reproduce, they pass this damage onto the next generation. Genetic errors build upon each other with each new cellular division, and the cancer cells are left to reproduce at a much slower rate, or to die off altogether. As radiation therapy is often applied externally, skin irritation is one of the main side effects. In the areas that are treated, patients often report that they feel as though they have been sunburned. The skin may redden, itch, become dry and flaky and lose its elasticity. A course of radiation may last anywhere from two to ten weeks, five days a week with possibly two treatment sessions a day. So patients may find themselves with little or no relief for this particular symptom. The following is a special oncology spa treatment designed for my mother. It targets the damage that radiation therapy can do to the skin. It uses aloe vera gel and juice, cucumber and green tea, and ideally should be done twice a week for the duration of the radiation therapy. This treatment is best offered as a package for radiation patients. Don’t forget to add 100 percent pure aloe vera gel to your retail line, so patients can continue the treatment at home by applying the gel after a radiation session, as well as at night for a month after the last session.
Aloe vera and cucumber restore and repair wrap Ingredients: • Cleanser for sensitive skin • 100 percent pure aloe vera juice, chilled • Green tea, brewed earlier and chilled
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
• Freshly puréed cucumber • 100 percent pure aloe vera gel, chilled 1. Before treatment, mix two parts aloe vera juice to one part chilled green tea and one large puréed cucumber (skin may be left on). Soak 100 percent pure unbleached cotton strips into the mixture and chill. 2. Do an in-depth consultation with the client on their medical history, their current treatment plan and the area(s) that are being treated with radiation. Ask the client to show you the radiation markings. Also ask them if they are permanent or in ink, which may fade or wash off. If they are inked, be careful not to apply any product over them. 3. Once the client is comfortable in the treatment room, gently cleanse the area and dry thoroughly. 4. Depending on the area being treated, either wrap the infused cotton strips delicately around limbs or rest them on the back, chest or abdomen. Leave them for 10 to 15 minutes. 5. Replace the cotton and apply again for another 10 to 15 minutes. 6. Remove the cotton and pat the skin dry. Apply a thick layer of aloe vera gel, and advise the client to allow that to absorb before they dress. n Cassandra Rafuse is a holistic health practitioner with 15 years of experience. She is proficient in numerous natural health modalities. A dedicated scholar, Rafuse is a freelance writer and educator in the spa and wellness industries, as well as an expert in spa therapies from around the world. She is preparing to open a wellness clinic and ecospa in Lake George, New Brunswick in Canada, and can be reached via email at auricia@nb.sympatico.ca. LNEONLINE.com • Page 101
BY ROBERT SACHS Page 102 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
image: Shutterstock.com
OFFERING CARE AND SUPPORT for spa goers and ourselves
organic & wellness
photo: Anyamuse/Shutterstock.com
O
V ER THE YEARS, THE JOURNAL OF Clinical Psychiatry has tracked the effects of depression in the United States. Rated as the eleventh cause of preventable diseases leading to death, depression plays a major role in substance abuse and suicide, as well as low productivity, increased sick days and absenteeism in the workplace. Not only does depression impact the person experiencing it from within, but caregiver burnout also factors into more than $100 billion of depression related costs to the U.S. economy annually. Depression is considered very serious within the health care system and insurance companies. If one decides to take out traveler’s insurance when going abroad, having a history of being treated for anxiety may increase the insurance premium by $100. The coverage for people who truthfully fill out forms to indicate that they are medicated for or have been hospitalized for depression will see their travel insurance rate skyrocket. There are many causes of depression. Ayurveda, the Eastern science of longevity, explains that one of the primary causes of depression is a disturbance in the body energy known as Vata, which is sometimes explained as the wind energy of the body. Vata is responsible for the healthy functioning of the central nervous system, and shows itself most noticeably in the ease or difficulty we find in movement—including the health of our joints—and the health of our lower GI tract, or colon. What disturbs the healthy functioning of these expressions and manifestations of Vata can arise from environmental, behavioral, circumstantial and nutritional causes. If we are exposed to noxious chemicals in our air and water, move from one climate to another or find ourselves in the midst of a natural disaster and radical change in our home or regional environment, all of these disturb Vata. This occurs if we are constantly traveling, changing where we are and what we are doing. If we create a lifestyle where there is no proper time to eat, rest, sleep and take care of or nurture our bodies, our Vata is distrubed. If our diet is low in nutrition and does not appropriately supply the nutrients we need to fulfill our daily activities, Vata is disturbed. What does disturbed Vata look like? A body that can’t rest, but may be exhausted. Or a mind that cannot focus—or is overly focused to the point of obsession. Biologically and psychologically rundown and out of balance, we increasingly feel self doubt. To mask our self doubt, we may act as if we just don’t care—about ourselves or others. The things we become attracted to or crave nutritionally—caffeine, alcohol, sugar—only exacerbate the problem. Sooner or later, we may notice (or we may not) that none of these remedies are working for us, and medication becomes the only logical solution. The simple truth—and it September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
is an Ayurvedic one—is that when we are out of balance, we become attracted to those things which amplify our imbalance. I call it the lemming law of oriental medicine. If we have enough insight, perhaps we can figure this out and begin to untangle a life that has gone awry. But more often than not, help and/or support from others becomes an important part of what it takes to overcome feelings of depression and the lifestyle that contributes to it. The offerings and teachings of spas can be the very support that is needed.
If you offer clients food and beverage as part of your service, warm teas and soups are far better than juices and raw foods.
A short and succinct article can only touch upon a few things that can be done to help address this national problem; a problem that we ourselves may be experiencing. We can certainly take note of the problem in the clients who walk through our doors every day. That said, there are three ideas I would like to offer here. First, body work. It is important for depressed individuals to receive nourishing touch from skilled hands that are calm, deliberate and warm. Use products that nourish, and do not add to the chemical burden the client may be experiencing. This is calming to Vata. In Ayurveda, there is a treatment known as Abhyanga, which in one translation means “loving hands.” It is extremely effective. If you do not have someone on your staff that knows Abhyanga, offer your client a gentle Swedish massage. This type of body work is more suitable than treatments like Thai, deep tissue or Shiatsu massages. continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 103
organic & wellness
Working with breath, visualization or age-old sacred sounds from traditions around the world, meditation encourages a peaceful, more spacious state of mind.
•Rejuvenates with Marula •Exfoliates with Papaya enzyme •Oxygenates with Niacin •Hydrates with Hyaluronic Acid
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Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed massage therapist and educator. He is the author of Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World and coauthor with Melanie Sachs of Ayurvedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at DiamondWayAyurveda.com, email him at ayurveda8@earthlink.net, call him at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291.
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Marula Enzyme Mask
Thai, Shiatsu, and deep tissue techniques are less calming, and more challenging to the tissues. Indeed, they may lead to the release of tensions and stress, but they have a more confrontational dimension. Anything that requires one to breathe into the pain or experience sudden changes is more aggravating to Vata. For Pitta and Kapha types, these approaches are excellent, but not so much for Vata. Another Ayurvedic treatment that is highly effective for depression is shirodhara, the playing of oil on the middle of the forehead. This helps to release serotonin, allowing the body to rest, nourishing and calming the nervous system. Second, if you offer clients food and beverage as part of your service, warm teas and soups are far better than juices and raw foods. In general, recommend a diet that is warm and nourishing. The diet should be rich in minerals and enzymes. It is often the case that people go for caffeine and sugar because their diets are depleted of these vital nutrients. Lastly, there is meditation. There are many forms of meditation. Meditation is not about blanking out the mind. Working with breath, visualization or age-old sacred sounds from traditions around the world, meditation encourages a peaceful, more spacious state of mind. Depression can feel so solid and claustrophobic. By contrast and function, meditation is an important antidote for such constricted, seemingly intractable ways of thinking and feeling. We live in unpredictable times. It is only logical to sometimes feel out of balance, anxious and depressed. There are some life situations we can change, and others we cannot. Regardless, it is essential to reduce the impact of these situations and their resultant feelings on our bodies and minds. We must take them to heart and practically apply the skills and tools that are the foundation of spas and what we offer. As such, these words are not just for our clients, but for ourselves as well. n
organic & wellness
A HEALTHY
CULTURE
BY SU GIBSON
photo: Goran Bogicevic/Shutterstock.com
A HAPPY AND FIT WORK ENVIRONMENT
MOST LES NOUVELLES ESTHÉTIQUES & Spa readers probably have at least some past experience of working in an “unhealthy environment.” This is especially prevalent in hospitalityrelated fields such as hotel spas and resorts, where the hours are long, the food and drink is plentiful and the workplace can be stressful. With a higher volume of clients comes greater pressure and expectations, and that is followed by tendencies toward drama between co-workers and various self-destructive behaviors. This can plague a spa or clinic with absenteeism, high employee turnover, reduced productivity and low morale. Ultimately, this greatly affects the quality of care clients receive.
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
In the treatment room, spa industry professionals espouse the value of healthy habits, and use their expertise to help their clients improve their own wellness. However, as is human nature, practitioners do not always follow through with these recommendations in their own lives. When facing a long list of tasks for the day, a commute and commitments at home, it is easy for even the most wellness-minded spa professionals to skip the gym, grab something to eat on the go and brush off the desire for a quiet hour of reading or meditation. However, it is of the utmost importance that caretakers become models of healthy living, not just for their own sake, but for the sake of their clients and colleagues. 4 LNEONLINE.com • Page 105
Ensure that employees have the tools and empowerment they need. Nothing is more stressful to spa professionals than feeling powerless to help their clients or perform their duties because of a lack of resources or support. Creating a healthy culture in a spa, wellness center, skin clinic or similar business should be supported by management, and can begin with one staff member in any position. Workplace wellness programs have been proven to more than pay for themselves in health care cost savings and other benefits to organizations. Below are some simple, inexpensive ideas, along with first steps to take: Ensure that employees have the tools and empowerment they need. Nothing is more stressful to spa professionals than feeling powerless to help their clients or perform their duties because of a lack of resources or support. This is a basic tenet underlying all other healthy culture-boosting activities. To begin, place a suggestion box in the staff room and ask employees to write down items or policies that they feel would help operations run even more efficiently. Facilitate treatment trading. Because of the physical, mental and energetic toll that providing treatments can take on spa therapists, it is important for them to regularly receive services such as bodywork and facials. This also fosters group cohesion and knowledge about therapist skill sets, and can lead to improvements in client care and referrals. To begin, identify the slowest periods of business within the next few days and assign individual staff members without scheduled work or treatments to trade during those times. Keep the break room stocked with healthy drinks and food choices. Make it easier to brew a cup of green or herbal tea than sugary coffee concoctions. Stock the refrigerator with juices, along with filtered and mineral waters. Proudly display fresh fruit and veggie-based snacks, and hide or discard the sodas, candy bars and potato chips that are usually lurking in this area. To begin, choose the busiest day of the week to bring in fresh salad and fruit as a “thank you” for the staff. Encourage communication. This will substantially reduce stress and friction in the workplace. The use of bulletin boards, open door policies, regularly scheduled staff meetings and other communication tools help keep drama at bay. Start by posting the manager’s schedule for the next week on the bulletin board, along with suggested times each day to take advantage of an open door policy for any employee to come to you with issues, ideas or suggestions. Replace employee parties with other fun activities. Instead of celebrating a business milestone, holiday or employee birthday with a big meal, cake and drinks, take the
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5. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #253 on reader service card
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photo: Goran Bogicevic/Shutterstock.com
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organic & wellness|a healthy culture
team on a nature excursion, beach walk, volunteering day or charity run. Bring in an expert to conduct a workshop on nutrition, Yogalates, raw foods or meditation. These types of energy-boosting events are great for team building, employee morale and company culture enhancement. To begin, gather ideas by asking employees to tell you about their favorite wellness activity or event. Organize some healthy competitions. Plan out a monthly or seasonal competition that centers around healthy habits or behaviors, such as team weight-loss contests and fitness challenges. Be sure to build in support, such as teams or buddy systems to promote positive peer pressure. To begin, enlist team members to organize and administer the first challenge, and identify possible prizes and incentives. Provide resources for physical activity. If there are fitness facilities on the property, set aside specific times when employees are allowed to use them, and outline the parameters so the staff understands that it is permitted and encouraged. If on-property facilities are not available, negotiate discounts for the employees to join a local gym. Some companies, for example, are incorporating “booster breaks” into the day to enhance productivity. This idea is based on research by Wendell Taylor, Ph.D., M.P.H. These booster breaks consist of 15-minute sessions of simple, light impact facilitated group activity to reduce sedentary behavior, improve employee fitness and boost morale. To begin, decide on a time and an open area that can be available each day for a booster break, and identify team members who may want to be facilitators. This tip could also be incorporated into step #6. Be the example. Employees who see their managers taking wellness seriously will also take it seriously. Let them see you coming in from a walk, eating healthy or chatting about other healthy practices you have adopted. To begin, review your own lifestyle and write down healthy habits you would like to add to your routines. Wellness behaviors are contagious! A healthy culture in the workplace pays dividends in the form of a happier, healthier, more cohesive staff team, lower health-related costs from insurance premiums, workers’ compensation claims and absenteeism. It also enhances client satisfaction due to the level of knowledge and genuine enthusiasm behind the personal lifestyle recommendations. n
Beauty in harmony with nature.
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Su Gibson is an independent consultant and industry lecturer at the Conrad N. Hilton College, University of Houston. With a BA in psychology, an MBA in international business and more than a decade of experience in the spa industry, she enjoys writing on the topics of health, spas and wellness.
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September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 107
ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS
TARGETED SUPPORT
ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES
The De La Terre Skincare® Chemotherapy Skin Support System is a comprehensive skin support kit of products that allow cancer patients to experience an improvement to the quality of skin repair, as well as a reduction of inflammation associated with chemotherapy, says the company. Soothing, restorative and free of harmful chemicals, the kit inspires cancer patients to strive for wellness. delaterreskincare.com 828.252.8400
NOURISHING THERAPY Stress, health issues and age can diminish activity in the scalp. S1 Serum Scalp Therapy by Tecniche is a natural, gentle formula that helps stimulate and nourish the scalp with a symphony of essential bioavailable nutrients, peptides and botanicals, says the company. These key ingredients provide an environment that nurtures follicles, in turn encouraging healthy, vibrant hair. tecniche.com 303.639.1101
GIVE SKIN A BOOST Ilike organic skin care’s Sour Cherry Cleansing Milk, part of their new Sour Cherry line, is a delicate blend of deliciously fragrant, age defying sour cherries and iron boosting blackthorn berries. This gentle cleanser removes dirt and impurities while infusing skin with essential vitamins necessary for healthy, glowing skin. It makes a great solution for pale, tired skin that can stem from anemia caused by iron deficiency, along with other nutrient and vitamin deficiencies. szepelet.com 888.290.6238
TENSION RELIEF The new Muscle & Joint Therapeutic Massage Gel from Biotone® is formulated for muscle and joint recovery. It is ideal for sports massage, deep tissue, neuromuscular and trigger point therapies. Essential oils of eucalyptus, Peru Basalm and wintergreen work together to assist in fast recovery, says the company. The light, therapeutic aromas provide a soothing state of wellness. biotone.com 800.445.6457
Page 108 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
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ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS
SOFTEN AND SOOTHE
ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES
ECO-FRIENDLY MAKEOVER Dawn Lorraine Conscious Skincare has transitioned its entire professional organic skin care line to glass packaging, another way they are demonstrating their commitment to eco-friendly practices. Unlike plastic, glass can be recycled repeatedly and is the earth friendly choice for ecoconscious consumers, says the company. Dawn Lorraine’s moisturizers are now in glass jars with a metal lid, 100 percent recyclable containers. dawnlorraine.com 866.930.9779
Dr. Jeff® BioMVP Rejuvenating Mask 1 is a pre-moistened mask infused with Himalayan red rice stem cells, peptides and soothing botanicals to rejuvenate and hydrate stressed skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and soften age spots, says the company. Formulated for mature skin, it is free of parabens, alcohol, oil, fragrance and color additives. dr-jeff.com 888.316.3683
RESTORATIVE BOTANICALS
EYE HYDRATION The Tranquileyes™ Dual Dry Eye Relief Kit includes both of the company’s reusable gel pack technologies, instant and beads. Combined, the kit contains approximately 160 moist heat therapies for dry eye relief. There are 100 treatments of the instant technology, ranging from 18 to 20 minutes in duration. Another 60 applications of the bead technology are provided, ranging from 12 to15 minutes in length. Both technologies can also be used to create 12 to 15 minute cold therapies to help reduce lid puffiness and sinus pressure, says the company. eyeeco.com 888.730.7999
The Lavender Healing Balm from Body Systems is a concentrated, vitaminrich formula used for cancer patients and survivors. It is formulated to help rebuild lost skin cells with tamanu oil, heal inflammation with calendula flower petals and create a soothing moisturized barrier from environmental toxins with the addition of pure French lavender essential oil, says the company. body-systems.net 605.484.6742
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chemo and lashes
photo: Nathalie B/Shutterstock.com
by Ellie Malmin
CHEMOTHERAPY AFFECTS THE hair follicles, as they reproduce frequent ly like cancer cells and certain cells in the body. Understanding five specific phases of cell cycle reproduction clari fies why the follicle is affected. These five phases are G0, GI, S, G2 and M. G0: This is the resting stage, before the cell has started to divide or reproduce. G1: During this phase, the cell starts making more proteins to get ready to di vide. Single strands of DNA, called RNA, are also made. This phase lasts about 18 to 30 hours. S: In this phase, DNA are copied so that both of the new cells to be made will have the same DNA. This lasts about 18 to 20 hours. G2: This phase takes place just be fore the cell starts splitting into two cells. It lasts between two and 10 hours. M: In this phase, the cell actually splits into 2 identical cells. The process takes between 30 and 60 minutes. Cells are attacked in the S and M phas es, preventing reproduction. Cancer cells continually reproduce. Chemo kills cancer cells, interfering with the reproduction pro cess and interrupting the hair follicle cells during their reproduction. This prevents them from dividing and reproducing prop erly, causing hair loss. Certain chemo drugs affect the loss of lashes and brows. Lashes and brows usu ally start falling out after the second chemo treatment or whenever the treatment has finished. The loss could recur for several years after chemo has stopped. Chemo can damage the follicle in such a way that it may grow back thinner, straighter, curly, downward or sometimes inverted. Lashes that grow inverted can cause problems.
The follicles may need to be removed by a physician or through electrolysis treatment. If lashes are growing slightly downward, your client can use a heated lash curler to turn it up, or perm it with a physician’s approval. In time, lashes and brows can return to their normal state. There are ways to help your client through this process. In selecting eyebrow pencils and eyeliners, choose something as close to her natural hair color or a shade lighter. Going too dark can look strange, especially against pale skin.
Eye definition without lashes Practice tight lining. Use a felt tip liner and make tiny dots on the lash base line, then take a pencil or gel liner above the dots and draw a line; smudge it. Rim the inside of the eye, both upper and lower with a pencil or gel liner. Try a blue or green, as they brighten the eye. Apply an eye moisturizing lid base, and finish with a powder shadow on top, moving across the entire eyelid. False lashes and stick on brows can make your client feel healthier. There are some made with self stick bands, espe cially for cancer patients. Be aware that your client might experience sensitivity to the adhesives. Have her consult her phy sician. Eyelash extensions are not recom mended until her natural lash grows in. You can recommend waiting at least nine months and three full cycles, but remember she may experience lash loss for several years. Eyelash growth serums would be beneficial (with the approval of her physi cian) in fighting this. Another option is a permanent eye liner and brows, but chances of infection could be a concern with a weakened
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
immune system. Again, approval by her physician is strongly recommended. Create a brow with stencils for your client, and teach her how to do her own with an eyeliner brush and water or liquid sealer. The best time to make this stencil creation is prior to her eyebrow loss. This will enable you to duplicate her current shape and design. Take a piece of plastic (such as a clear tablecloth cover), cut into 3” x 2” pieces, draw the shape with a pen and cut it out. She can then use this custom stencil to pencil in her brows. Advise your clients to refrain from rubbing their eyes too vigorously. Recom mend a gentle eye makeup remover for mulated for sensitive skin. Suggest that she throw away all old makeup because of bac teria. The loss of eyelashes can make your clients’ eyes feel more dry and sensitive. Sunglasses can provide some comforting protection from wind and sunlight. Remember that the oncology client needs you to be there for her now. She needs a sympathetic ear, a confidant and an expert to assist with her changing appear ance. What an honor it is to be able to help a client in their greatest time of need. n Ellie Malmin is a cosmetologist and electrologist with more than 30 years of experience in the industry. She is the founder of Anushka Spa in West Palm Beach, FL. Malmin has co-authored several training manuals, developed training programs for various cosmetics manufacturers and created a styling program for eyelash implants with the prominent Dr. Alan Bauman. She is currently the executive director for the Lashologist Council of America. LNEONLINE.com • Page 111
Nail Care and
CHEMO by Karen Hodges
Nail care checklist for clients with special health considerations 1. Ask questions. Find out exactly what the health issues are. 2. Get explicit permission from health care givers. 3. Revisit all sanitation steps to be sure all bases are covered. 4. Take extra precautions with each procedure. Move slowly and deliberately.
5. Modify services as needed. Note any changes in the health or structure of their nails, or the skin on their hands and feet. 6. If indicated, remove nail enhancements and go with a “compromised nail protocol.” (See below) 7. Check with your clients often about pressure, temper ature, scents—anything that you can adjust. 8. Use fresh products and as many single use “throw-aways” as possible. 9. Keep your emotions under control, and share some fun anecdotes. 10. Listen.
Understanding cancer treatments from a nail technician’s point of view Your client could be undergoing a number of possible treat ments. Surgery, radiation and chemotherapy are a few key possibilities. Changes in her medications, general health, me tabolism and stress level will all play a part in the health of her finger and toe nails. Your primary goal is to provide a small slice of “normal” to her life while taking every precaution to prevent further trauma to her compromised system. The body is a closed system. All of its resources (nutri tion, physical energy, mental energy, etc.) have finite limits.
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photo: Marina Svetlova/Shutterstock.com
THE SERVICE YOU PROVIDE AS A NAIL TECHNICIAN is more comprehensive than “doing nails.” It is touch. It is empathy (not sympathy). It is reassurance. It is hopefulness. Here are some ideas that can help you provide the best possible experience for your clients (not patients!). First, put on your best “poker face” and help your client cope in whatever way she seems to need. Be warm and show your caring and support of her, but really listen. She may be reeling with the news, or she may have processed it and is ready to fight. You may need to simply be an ear. Or you may need to be a distraction for the hour she is with you. You will be better able to provide good nail care and support if you pay attention to what she might need from you and use the nail tech’s trick of “talking to the hand.” To prepare, review this checklist and keep a copy handy:
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photo: Andresr/Shutterstock.com
Gently trim, file and buff the nails to a shorter length. Remind her that this is temporary—she can have her long nails again after treatments are complete. The body prioritizes these needs and assigns the resources. Fighting for life and moving toward health comes higher on the list than non-essentials such as hair and nail growth. Most people readily identify and accept hair loss during intense cancer treatments, but you need to know that nail tissue is just as “non-essential,” and your clients are just as likely to have issues with their nails as they are their hair. Not only will your client’s body likely be focused away from nail growth, but her immune system will be compromised by the medications she is taking. This “double whammy” can lead to the nails becoming a playground for opportunistic micro-organ isms such as fungus, yeast and various types of bacteria. Many of these bacteria are present in small amounts on fingers and toes at any given time, and are easily controlled by the normally acidic pH of the skin and nails. But during cancer treatment, the skin is not going to be able to take care of everything without support. It is very important that the skin is not broken by nip ping, cutting or scraping. The texture or consistency of her nail beds may drastically change. She may have soft, peeling nails, or extremely dehy drated and brittle nails. Be gentle in all your strokes as you trim, file or buff her nails. Her skin may be moist and “yeasty” between the fingers and toes. Her heels may be dehydrated to the point of fis sures and cracks on her heels or the balls of her feet. Both of these conditions could be present. Be prepared to address all the possibilities. Perhaps adding a cup of white vinegar to her foot bath would help reset the acid mantle of her skin. Dark and/or occlusive nail coverings may be contra-indi cated. However, some clients may want to use a dark color to cover up discoloration. Assess whether or not nail enhancements should come off. Do not let your client’s love of her pretty nail enhancements override your professionalism when you note that her nail plates are detaching. A lifted nail can become a health issue very easily if an environment that supports germ growth is allowed: dark, damp and non-acidic (alkaline from the growth of microorganisms). Another thing to be aware of is that sensory input may al ter. Your client might suddenly become nauseated by certain fragrances. She may not be able to stand the sound or feeling of a nail file passing over the ends of her nails. She might not be able to tolerate the feeling of your touch on an area of her hands or feet. The water temperature for her foot bath may need to be adjusted. The temperature of the salon in general may be a problem for her. Check in with her often, and assure her that you are not going to be offended if she needs to tell you to stop doing something. September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
The best thing you can do is find a balance in support ing her without overwhelming her with your emotions. Take your cue from her.
Protocol for compromised nails If your client’s nails become compromised by her treatments, tell her you are going to help, with the primary concern being the health of her nails. It will be a two-part plan: you will help them with good professional care in the salon and they are going to have to do their homework. You must be checking on that homework, so no slacking! In the salon, you must use every technique to ensure their nails are treated with care: • Remove nail enhancement products, using the appro priate removal method. In the case of traditional gels, thinning them down and allowing them to grow off may be best. This will ensure that there is no barrier over the nail plates that might trap moisture. • Gently trim, file and buff the nails to a shorter length. Remind her that this is temporary—she can have her long nails again after treatments are complete. • Be extra careful when you are pushing the cuticles back. Do not nip unless a piece of skin is standing free like a flag, and is obviously no longer living tissue. An exfoliating cu ticle treatment is a better idea. • Apply a germ fighting nail treatment that can be buffed into the nail plate. • Keep all occlusive products off the nails. A very light buffing will be the usual nail finish. Practice gentle callus reduction only. Do not cut calluses. Light, steady strokes with an appropriate grit buffer may be used judiciously. continues
LNEONLINE.com • Page 113
image|nail care and chemo
• Administer gentle massage touch only. Unless you are a certified massage therapist with specialty training, limit massage to a light lotion application. It can be a long one, with complete attention paid to each digit, but a light touch is a must. • Paraffin will be very beneficial, but test the temperature on the inside of your wrist before applying it to your client. • When in doubt about whether something could be harm ful or uncomfortable to your client, don’t do it. For special occasions, a clear shine product can be applied, preferably one with anti-microbial properties. But it should be removed after two or three days. A very thin, hair-line French polish could be allowed for a short time. But be careful not to use anything that blocks light from penetrating it.
Homework for your clients • Do everything you can to protect your fingers and toes from injury. • Wear shoes and gloves when you are cleaning. • Dry them well after washing or showering. • Keep your nails (both fingers and toes) dry, clean and in bright light.
• Apply antimicrobial oil to fingers and toes at least once daily. Tea tree oil cut with almond or jojoba oil, lavender oil or even neem oil will work. Alternatively, there are a number of professional cuticle oils you can retail to your clients. • For the time being, refrain from using dark polishes or anything that will block the light. • Remove polish applied for special occasions after two or three days and maintain your daily oil applications. n
Karen Hodges is a licensed esthetician and manicurist with more than 15 years of experience. She is a freelance writer, as well as an industry educator and public speaker around the globe. Hodges does consulting and training in salons, as well as on a one-on-one basis with individuals. Arrangements for classes, speaking engagements, web-based or personal training can be made by contacting her at keyzkaren@bellsouth.net.
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by Janet McCormick
image|warts types, treatments and prevention so prevention is key to interrupting the viral transmission.
Symptoms Most warts are well defined, with thick ened skin; however, a wart can develop on thin skin as well, such as the face. Warts in these areas will not have the typical rough surfaces, and may not be as easily noted as others. On thicker skin, the surface of the wart will have the typical rough sur face, and will be easier to detect.
Because warts are often invisible (though contagious) before eruption, the answer to prevention of transmission to your hands and other areas is to always wear gloves. Though erroneously rumored among children to be caused by touching frogs, all warts are actually caused by humanto-human transmission of the human pap illoma virus (HPV), to infect the top layer of skin. The virus enters the skin through microabrasions, and then begins to di vide and grow in the body. Sometimes years pass before lesions appear. It is highly contagious, and transmission occurs through direct contact, such as touching of the infected area by another person, or indirect—such as transmission through contaminated towels, floors of the shower, gym or bathroom, or a con taminated foot tub during a pedicure. Innumerable transmission sites exist,
Common warts (verruca vulgaris) are the exception to being named for their de velopmental location. They are the most frequently occurring type of warts, and usually appear on the hands away from the nails, although they may grow on any part of the body. They usually are rough, gray-brown, dome-shaped growths. Plantar warts (verruca plantaris) can de velop on any part of the foot, but usually they are on the bottom or plantar surface. The wart is pushed beneath the skin’s sur face by the pressure of one’s body during activities, so a callus usually develops over and/or around it. As a result, walking can become painful, much like having a peb ble in your shoe. Multiple plantar warts can
form in a large cluster known as a “mosaic cluster.” Other warts, such as common and filiform warts, can also develop as a group on the skin, with a “mother wart” and surrounding “daughter warts.” The black dots often seen in a plan tar wart are actually blood vessels that have developed rapidly and broken, and blood has clotted. Flat warts (verruca plana) are usually on the face, arms or legs, and appear like solid, flattened blisters around the mouth, nose and in the beard area. They are usu ally small, and several may be in one area, making a mosaic pattern. They have flat tops and can be pink, light brown or light yellow. Flat warts are often spread by the abrasions, caused by shaving or intense scrubbing by gritty cleansers. Filiform warts, thread or finger-like projections, are most common on the face, especially near the eyelids and lips. Periungual warts are found under and around the toenails and fingernails. They appear as rough, irregular bumps and can affect nail growth. These warts are often present on skin care and nail professionals as the result of working without gloves.
Prevention of transmission Warts can be very difficult for skin and nail professionals to define when they are on areas that are often shaved, exfoli ated and treated, such as the face, hands, legs and feet. On the face, they cover the lines and creases, which most other skin conditions do not. Many times they are continues
Page 116 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Wasanajai/Shutterstock.com
WARTS ARE SMALL, ROUGH and (usually) painless growths on the skin that resemble a piece of cauliflower or a solid blister. After acne, they are the most common infection of the skin reported to dermatologists. They are generally named for the locations where they develop. For example, warts under and around finger nails and toenails are called periungual warts, while those on the bottom of the feet are called plantar warts. The truth is, their basic etiology is the same.
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The medical treatments include cryotherapy (freezing the wart, usually with liquid nitrogen), multiple treatments with medical level salicylic acid and surgery, to name a few. thought to be hyperkeratosis or moles. Generally, growths on the hands and feet are more easily seen, but are they benign growths or infectious warts? Because warts are often invisible (though contagious) before eruption, the answer to prevention of transmission to your hands and other areas is to always wear gloves. Use new ones for every treatment, and for each area of the body. And of course, prevent the transfer of this infection to other clients by maintaining meticulous cleanliness of your hands, surrounding surfaces, towels and sheets.
Treatments Ask those around you to suggest treatment of warts and you will be amused by the numerous folklore cures you hear, from the application of duct tape to the application of “stump-water,” with its accompanying performance of a specific ritual (this is the favored cure by Tom Sawyer in Mark Twain’s Tales of Tom
Sawyer). In these times, many over-the-counter and medical treatments exist. The medical treatments include cryotherapy (freezing the wart, usually with liquid nitrogen), multiple treat ments with medical level salicylic acid and surgery, to name a few. Treatment of warts requires patience and commitment. With medical removal, it requires some pain. However, it is noted that most warts will just disappear in 12 to 18 months with out treatment, so many physicians or podiatrists recommend that the sufferer utilize the ultimate patience of just tolerating them until they go away. However, those that are in a location where they are painful or embarrassing should be treated. The reality is that in many cases, as with other viral skin infections, they will recur. n Janet McCormick is an esthetician, nail technician, sought-after trainer and former spa director and salon owner. She has written more than 400 articles for nail and esthetic industry magazines, and has contributed to the texts for these specialties. McCormick is the co-owner of Medinail Learning Center, a provider of online and school courses for nail technicians. She is also the co-founder of the National Aesthetic Spa Network. McCormick can be reached at janet.mccormick.info@gmail.com or 863.273.9134.
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Page 118 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
by Craig L. Ziering, D.O.
image| ICONIC BEAUTY PIONEER AND cosmetic queen Coco Chanel always said that the two most important features on a woman were her eyebrows and her lips. Well, women all know how to improve their lips, thanks to cosmetic fillers and other lip plumpers, but eyebrows are something else. Because of their central position on the face, eyebrows are a defining at tribute for balanced facial symmetry. Eyebrows frame the eyes, accentuating their natural beauty. They also show ex pression and surprise. So why is it that some people have beautiful, thick eye brows and others do not? One of the biggest reasons that is rarely discussed is female hair loss. Unlike men, who often openly embrace hair loss as an inevitable part of the aging process, female hair loss and baldness are not talked about quite as openly. Many women say they feel a significant loss of femininity and want to disguise their loss of hair at all times. Women suffering from hair loss on their head often lose hair on other parts of their body too, including eyebrows and eyelashes. Other women simply have thin eyebrows and lashes due to dietary habits, stress or genetics. Ziering Medical provides a solution to this problem, with a surgical proce dure that naturally restores scalp, eye brow and eyelash hair. When it comes to eyebrows, the primary goal is to de sign and sculpt an eyebrow shape that adds dimension, glamour and drama to the face by creating the optimum symmetry and proportion to facial fea tures. Well-proportioned eyebrows al
brow and lash restoration
low more depth of expression, bright en the eyes and lift the face, giving it a more vital appearance. Eyebrows and eyelashes make a significant difference in the presentation of the entire face. Typically, female eyebrows are naturally more arched, whereas a man’s eyebrows are more flattened and T-shaped. This should be factored into every eyebrow
before and after treatment
hair transplant. I perform eyebrow hair restoration makeovers using my SneakPeek Long Hair Transplant technique. This scientific process artistically crafts the shape of the transplanted eyebrow, using the patient’s facial anatomy and bone structure as a guide. I collaborate with my patients on the desired outcome and design. Like traditional hair trans plants, the procedure begins with the examination and removal of the donor tissue strip. The donor’s hair is taken from the back of the head, where the hair is genetically programmed not to fall out. The important thing to note here is that the length of the hair in the transplant able zone determines the length of the donor hair, meaning that the donor hair is left at the length of the patient’s own
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
eyebrow hair. This allows them to observe the results taking shape during their pro cedure, and to see the final outcome on the same day of their eyebrow transplant. An eyebrow transplant requires 150 to 300 or more hairs per eyebrow, de pending on the degree of loss and the transplant design. Similar to the tradi tional hair transplant procedures, the newly transplanted hair will fall out after several weeks as the follicle enters the resting or tellogen phase. Then the eye brow hair will grow back in the set design of the initial eyebrow transplant proce dure. Transplanted eyebrows require grooming and maintenance, as they are scalp hairs that are programmed to grow longer than normal eyebrow hair. In addition to eyebrow hair restora tion, I perform eyelash reconstruction surgery on a case-by-case basis. Eyelash transplants involve the transplantation of about 25 single hairs to each upper eye lid. Donor hair is taken from the back of the head and the grafts are divided into single hairs; the tissue is trimmed to make them very fine. Eyelash and eyebrow re construction restores function, improves appearance and elevates patients’ selfesteem. Or as Coco Chanel might say, “Ooh la la!” n photos courtesy of Craig Ziering, M.D. Craig L. Ziering, D.O., is the founder and medical director of Ziering Medical. He has practiced in the field of hair restoration for over 20 years. Dr. Ziering has authored many published articles on medical and surgical treatments for hair loss, and is an internationally sought after speaker at conferences. He has appeared as a hair restoration expert on The Today Show, The Doctors, The Bald Truth, Extreme Makeover and many cosmetic medicine programs. Learn more at zieringmedical.com. LNEONLINE.com • Page 119
image
Journey of Joy BEING A BEACON OF HOPE
BY TIM MAURER
I adjusted the symmetry of her face with more than an hour of subtle contour and highlighting. Scar tissue had caused the lips to be very uneven, creating the look of a continu ous frown. I recreated a missing upper-lip with a small latex buildup and waterproof sealant. I followed this with a water proof liner and lip color. The young lady was very pleased, and gave me a heartfelt thank you and hug. The major healing happened for her parents, who were unable to disguise their joy as tears flowed from their eyes. We all were surrounded by the power of transformation that afternoon. It was as if we were in a separate universe. I am going to describe a few techniques of what I like to call “makeup plasty.” Be advised that it takes many hours of hands-on practice to accomplish these skills with ease.
Creating symmetry The nose: Shading the area can create more asymmetry if you are not adept at the technique. Most apprentice artists overdo the shading and draw more attention to the issue instead of diffusing it. Stand at least a foot and a half back from your client, front and center. Draw an imaginary line down the center of their face, then across the middle plane from ear to ear. Anything that does not settle comfortably into that graph needs either contouring or highlighting to create a visage of symmetry. If the nose leans to the left, contour across it to the right and vice-versa. If the tip is much larger than the bridge, contour on the sides of the tip—not on the bridge, as that would exag gerate the difference. It is important to highlight the middle of the bridge to create a straight, flat surface. Scars left from skin
Page 120 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
photo: Mrs. Blondy/Shutterstock.com
I
HAVE HAD THE FORTUNE OF PLAYING A ROLE IN assisting many clients who have received life-changing medical diagnoses. The challenges of dealing with the countless issues that treatment throws at them can be truly overwhelming. From breakouts, deep dehydration and dry ness, total loss of hair and physical disfigurement, the treat ment can feel worse than the disease. You can be a beacon of hope and provide a healing hand during what may be the most difficult and traumatic time of their life. Always keep in mind that privacy and tact go a long way in creating trust and ultimately comfort. Whenever you work with a client in this situation, you should offer to do the consultation and even the application in a private setting. If that is not an option, try not to book other clients at the same time. I want so share a personal story that proves the power of transformation. A client of mine was in a bizarre elevator accident when she was very young. The elevator she was in dropped her many floors very quickly. This drop caused the destruction of almost every bone in her face, resulting in dis figurement. A multitude of surgeries over a period of more than a decade had made a tremendous improvement, but the residual effects were still very visually apparent. Her par ents brought her to me to prepare her for her senior prom, and they were very forward about the situation and what they hoped for from the appointment. The charming and vivacious young lady who greeted me bore the scars from the accident on her face, but nowhere in her demeanor. The personality she exhibited was disarming and lovely. I was able to fill in the scars with layers of latex and highly pigmented concealer.
cancer or hypertrophy removal are a very common occurrence. The skin in this area will usually discolor to a lighter shade, and often has a waxy or shiny appearance. Apply a matte powder that is the same color of the clients’ skin tone prior to using a concealer or foundation. This technique will make it last longer and present a more natural look. Cheekbones: When shading this area, remember not to follow the natural downward slope of the existing shape, as it will appear that the entire face is falling down with it. Cup the cheekbone with the contour as if it was an underwire bra for the face. The apple should be cradled by the shading. Highlighter should be placed on the upper plane of the bone, as if sunlight is shining down on their face. Blush should be placed approximately between the two planes. A fuller face needs blush at the back of the face, and a petite shape needs it more in the apple of the cheekbone to create fullness. You may need to sculpt each side differently to create symmetry. Uneven lips: Never go too far with creating a fuller lip on either side. Asymmetry can be made visually appealing with subtle changes. Always use a nude shade of pencil to cre ate the change. It allows you to build up the surface without looking as if you ran into six syringes of filler. Stay away from gloss, as it only draws attention to the flaw.
BEING A BASTION OF GOOD INFORMATION AND GENUINE GENEROSITY WILL GO A LONG WAY IN HELPING YOUR CLIENT HEAL.
Specific oncology issues It is important to be informed about ingredients that can be detrimental to patients during chemotherapy or radiation treat ments. Some ingredients seem to function as hormone disrup tors, affecting how estrogen and other hormones act in the body. It does this by blocking or mimicking them, throwing off the body’s hormonal balance. Hence, it is necessary to make in formed choices. I strongly recommend avoiding products with fragrance or alcohol, since both create surface dehydration when your client is already experiencing this problem from the inside-out. Under these circumstances, the skin will be dra matically more sensitive and intolerant of acids or mechanical exfoliation. Mineral powder based products that are generally beneficial will look chalky and cakey on the skin. Remember, we are trying to make our clients feel better, not worse. The most sensitive issue is the complete loss of hair. Not only is your client dealing with not feeling well, they are also handling the loss of the very feature with which most women attribute their femininity. It is difficult for anyone to feel attractive when they have lost their hair, brows and lashes. Teaching your client how to cre ate a natural brow shape will go a long way in making her feel whole again. Applying false lashes at this juncture is just another hurdle for the client; demonstrate how waterproof liner can help create the look of definition without the extra work. Make sure you know the best hair enhancement professionals in your area. A good wig still needs a great cut. Creating a look that is as close as possible to what they had before their hair loss is what you should try to achieve. Build relationships with the best hair stylists in your area, and you can refer clients to them. Being a bastion of good information and genuine generosity will go a long way in helping your client heal. Remember, “discretion is the better part of valor.” Your client’s privacy during this time is paramount. I hope you have the joy of helping someone else facing these circumstances. I know these experiences have enriched my life. n Tim Maurer, president and creator of Mukha Custom Cosmetics and Mukha Essentials, is an internationally renowned makeup artist with more than 20 years of experience as a master esthetician. Driven by his passion for the art of makeup and the allure of healthy skin, Maurer’s mission is to raise the bar on the knowledge and application of makeup at today’s leading spas. Contact him at tmaurer@mukhaessentials.com or visit mukhaessentials.com.
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NOURISHING BOOST
IMAGENEWS
SESHA Skin Therapy is donating a portion of the proceeds from the sales of both the Maxi Plump Lip Enhancer and the Active Recovery Neck & Décolletage Cream to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation in the month of October 2013. SESHA Skin Therapy’s Maxi Plump Lip Enhancer delivers tri-peptides to enhance the contour and volume of the lips, making them fuller and smoother. These cuttingedge peptides have been proven to increase the volume of the lips by over 40 percent, says the company. The Active Recovery Neck & Décolletage Cream is enriched with antioxidants and peptides to keep the skin around the neck and décolletage youthful and smooth. seshaskin.com 888.977.3742 bcrfcure.org
LUSCIOUS LASHES RapidLash® is a clinicallyproven, paraben-free formula that helps enhance, condition, and strengthen lashes and brows. The Eyelash and Eyebrow Enhancing Serum features a groundbreaking Hexatein™ 1 Complex, a unique proprietary mix of six highly effective ingredients that helps users achieve lush, full lashes and brows in as little as 30 days, says the company. Five percent of the proceeds in October will be donated to the American Cancer Society. rapidlash.com 877.760.6677 cancer.org
WINKS FOR PINK CONTEST NovaLash stylists are being challenged to think pink by encouraging clients to wear their Candied Lashes in Pink Lemonade. For every shimmery set applied, NovaLash will donate $1 to the Young Survival Coalition, with a total donation of up to $5,000. Hand-dipped in ultra fine pink colored crystals and freeze dried for stay-put shimmer, Candied Lashes add glimmer to lashes, says the company. Pink Lemonade Candied Lashes are available at a discount to encourage lash artists to participate. The lash artist who applies the most sets wins $500 worth of prizes and opportunities. This contest has been running since August and will continue through October. novalash.com 866.430.1261 youngsurvival.org
LONG AND STRONG Godefroy® Double Lash & Brow from Innovative Cosmetics creates long, lush lashes and brows. The unique formulation of natural botanicals and oils allows the lash and brow hair to grow to its full potential, with no premature fallout or breakage, says the company. It is available in both a six and twelve piece display for retail. godefroybeauty.com 800.854.9809
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The Limited Edition Bronze Kiss from glominerals achieves a natural, healthy glow while nourishing the skin with vital nutrients. A portion of sales from October 1 through December 31, 2013 will be donated to the National Breast Cancer Foundation. gloprofessional.com 800.232.0398 nationalbreastcancer.org
PEPTIDE POWER Dermelect® Cosmeceuticals’ lovely pink ME peptide-infused nail treatment in the Indulgence shade keeps nails long and strong, says the company. During the month of October, 50 percent of the net proceeds from sales will be donated to the CEW Foundation’s Cancer and Careers program. dermelect.com 888.693.3763 cancerandcareers.org
PRETTY POUT Vivant Skin Care’s new Maxilip Lip Plumper offers a clinically tested solution to increasing lip volume without augmentation surgery. The semi-permanent effect puffs out the surface folds and increases the build-up of oxygen in the lips. It lasts as long as the user continues to apply it, says the company. A recent clinical 29-day study done on women with fine and dry lips aged 22-40 showed an average 40 percent increase in lip volume, a nearly 30 percent reduction of surface folds, 60 percent improvement of hydration and a 70 percent increase of comfort, protection and softness. vivantskincare.com/maxilip 800.984.8268
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
CUTTING-EDGE DEVICE The MT-20 by Erica’s Advanced Technical Abrasives is a slim, lightweight, micromotor handpiece with no vibration and little sound, says the company. It fits perfectly into a woman’s hand, making it easier to operate. The variable speed control runs from 1,500 to 20,000 RPM and is constructed out of steel to add additional durability to the machine. The nail vacuum system nozzle was created to attach to Erica’s drill to suck up gel and skin particles. ericasata.com 877.909.7181
IMAGENEWS
GORGEOUS GLOW
MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS
LNEONLINE.com • Page 123
WEST | CENTRAL | EAST REGIONAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
LEARN ON LOCATION
West SEPTEMBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424.
Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.
SEPTEMBER 8 Reduce the Signs of Aging and Keep a Client for Life! by Rhonda Allison. San Francisco, CA. 866.313.7546. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Tucson, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 8-9 Advanced Skin Histology, Analysis and Treatments (2-Day “Skin-tensive” Training) by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
SEPTEMBER 9 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tucson, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 15 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Page 124 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
West Central East International
SEPTEMBER 16
SEPTEMBER 29
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
In-Depth Consulting, Progressive Peels for Aging, Acne, Hyperpigmentation & Sensitive Skin by Rhonda Allison. Golden, CO. 866.313.7546. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Denver, CO. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 22 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Reno, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Denver, CO. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Central
SEPTEMBER 23
SEPTEMBER 29-30
Advanced Training with Flower Acids and Peels by Rhonda Allison. Reno, NV. 866.313.7546. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Reno, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boise, ID. 877.PCA.SKIN.
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines. Long Beach, CA. 800.471.0229.
SEPTEMBER (ONGOING)
SEPTEMBER 30
SEPTEMBER 8
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues
September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150.
LNEONLINE.com • Page 125
calendar|central|east
CALENDAR OF EVENTS SEPTEMBER 9 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 15 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 16 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 22 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 23 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
East SEPTEMBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.
Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.
SEPTEMBER 8 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 9 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
SEPTEMBER 15 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Albany, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Washington, DC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. West Palm Beach, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Page 126 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
calendar|east
SEPTEMBER 16
SEPTEMBER 22
SEPTEMBER 23
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Albany, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Washington, DC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. West Palm Beach, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Virginia Beach, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Brighten up with Professional Solutions for Hyperpigmentation & Anti-Aging by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ 800.248.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues
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September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 127
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Virginia Beach, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
ONLINE EDUCATION SEPTEMBER 16
SEPTEMBER 24 The Business of Operating a Spa Business by Rhonda Allison. Dania Beach, FL. 866.313.7546.
The Art of Recommendation by Repêchage. Webinar held at 1 p.m., EST. repechage.com/ lydia-sarfati-academy.asp
SEPTEMBER 23 SEPTEMBER 29 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Get Your Kit on! Successful Retailing of bt-Ceuticals by Bio-Therapeutic Webinar held at 11 a.m., PST. bio-therapeutic.com/events.html
SEPTEMBER 30 SEPTEMBER 30 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 27-28 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines. Philadelphia, PA. 800.471.0229.
OCTOBER 28-30 Become and Esthetic Superstar! Skin Science From the Lab, Facial Massage & Anti-Aging Treatments by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.
bt-GEAR Mobile Services by Bio-Therapeutic Webinar held at 11 a.m., PST. bio-therapeutic.com/events.html
OCTOBER 14 bt-accent Services by Bio-Therapeutic Webinar held at 11 a.m., PST. bio-therapeutic.com/events.html
ONGOING A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
An In-Depth Look at Melasma by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Addressing Adolescent Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Customizing Daily Care Regimens by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Diminishing Deep Wrinkling by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. hydropeptide.com/webinars Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Page 128 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2013
calendar|online
National Esthetic Teacher Training Sponsored by NCEA Investigating Impaired Barrier Function by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Product Formulations as a Whole by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Shedding Light on UV-induced Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses September 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Targeting Adult Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses The Daily Care Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses The Professional Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) September 28, 2013 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) October 26, 2013 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229
TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013 September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2014 April 6-7 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2014 May 4-5 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014 September 7-8 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014 October 19-20 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229
LNEONLINE.com • Page 129
advertisers’ index Page Number
Reader Service No.
5................. A Natural Difference................................................. anaturaldifference.com.................................................. 232 8................. Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts............................ arcskincare.com.............................................................. 120 59............... Athena..................................................................... athenabeauty.com.......................................................... 162 2-3............. Aveda...................................................................... aveda.com...................................................................... 130 87............... Beautiful Image....................................................... beautifulimagellc.com.................................................... 183 115............. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................. 180 96............... Bellaire Industry...................................................... bellaireindustry.com....................................................... 189 85............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................ 140 6,73............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 98............... Biomani................................................................... biomaniskincare.com..................................................... 276 45............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................ 335 41............... Christina.................................................................. shop.christina-usa.com................................................... 107 95............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... circadia.com................................................................... 101 77............... Control Corrective................................................... controlcorrective.com.................................................... 272 55............... Cosmetiques France Laure..................................... francelaure.com.............................................................. 199 132............. Darphin................................................................... darphin.com................................................................... .159 57............... DermAware............................................................. dermaware.com............................................................. 256 15............... Dr. Grandel.............................................................. grandel-usa.com............................................................ 109 80............... Dr. Jeff..................................................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... .248 68,107........ Dr. Schrammek........................................................ greenpeelusa.com......................................................... .166 9................. Edge Systems........................................................... HydraFacial.com............................................................ 201 10-11,19.....Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 44................Enspri...................................................................... enspriskincare.com.......................................................... 318 131............. Equipro................................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 72............... Eve Taylor................................................................ evetaylornorthamerica.com............................................. 228 37............... GrandeLASH-MD.................................................... grandewholesale.com...................................................... 286 31............... Hairmax.................................................................... hairmaxsalons.com......................................................... 285 104............. Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................. halecosmeceuticals.com................................................ 133 7................. Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 32-33......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... philadelphia.skincareshows.com...................................... ...... 79............... Kneipp.................................................................... kneippus.com.................................................................. 324 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................ladyburd.com................................................................. 119 51............... Le Mieux.......................................................................lemieuxcosmetics.com................................................... 294 39............... Lira Clinical...................................................................liraclinical.com................................................................ 203 69............... Lôngmi Lashes by Daniel............................................longmilashes.com.......................................................... 322 49............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................lucrece.com.................................................................... .263 89............... Meg 21/Dynamis..........................................................meg21.com.................................................................... 344 121............. Minkys...........................................................................minkys.com.................................................................... 236 91............... Osmosis Skincare.........................................................osmosisskincare.com...................................................... 111 118............. Palacia Skin Care..........................................................PalaciaBeautyDevice.com.............................................. 225 29............... PCA Skin.......................................................................pcaskin.com................................................................... 110 117............. Rapidlash......................................................................rapidlash.com................................................................. 224 109............. Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 21............... Rhonda Allison.............................................................rhondaallison.com.......................................................... 190 114............. Saian........................................................................ saian.net......................................................................... 165 106............. Select Spa Source..................................................... selectspa.com................................................................ 253 88............... Sesha Skin Therapy................................................... seshaskin.com................................................................ 271 17............... Shira......................................................................... shiraesthetics.com.......................................................... 249 22............... Silhouettone.us......................................................... silhouettone.us............................................................... 192 118............. Skin Blends.....................................................................skinblends.com.............................................................. 283 53............... Skin Care Consultants....................................................lamskin.com................................................................... 230 84............... Sranrom..........................................................................sranrom.com.................................................................. 207 93............... Szép Élet/ilike.................................................................szepelet.com.................................................................. 274 36............... Tecniche.........................................................................tecniche.com.................................................................. 153 127............. Teka Fine Line Brushes, Inc............................................tekabrushonline.com...................................................... 195
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