LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals
October 2013
$7.50
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CONTENTS OCTOBER 2 0 1 3
VOLUME 28
N U M BE R 1 0
skin
Skin Care Culture 28 Overall Skin Treatment Strategies 30 The Key to Longevity and Wellness 36 Dynamic Breathing 40 Loud and Clear 44 Skin News 48
Skin Care Culture page 28
Benefits of Whole Oils page 66
spa Benefits of Whole Oils Rock Bathing EFT Tapping Spa News
The Beauty of Bamboo 50 Stress Management 58 Beyond Beauty 62 66 72 73 76
organic & wellness Natural and Non-toxic Plumping Ingredients 94 For the Health of it 96 Chi Power 101 Healing From Within 103 Organic & Wellness News 106
Grow Your Client List page 88
business
Get Up, Dress Up and Show Up a Superstar! 78 The Culture of Technology 80 Achieve Financial Health 84 Grow Your Client List Biz News
Chi Power page 101
88 92
Opposites Attract page 113
image
Youth Beyond the Years 108 Nail Artistry Personality 110 Opposites Attract 113 Fan Brush Mani 120 Image News 123
extras
From the Editor 6 Spa of the Month: The Spa at Trump SoHo 10 Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Philadelphia, PA 21 Wellness and Longevity Photo Feature 52 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers’ Index 130
Cover
courtesy of Maniatis
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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from the
EDITOR
O
The ultimate ATP synthesis.
CTOBER MARKS THE FIRST FULL MONTH OF autumn, ushering in cooler weather and a colorful changing of the leaves as we shift into a new season. With these changes in the air, it is time to focus on health, longevity and wellness in the spa, both for our guests and for ourselves! Spa clients are gravitating toward a more balanced and holistic lifestyle—are you ready for it? This paradigm shift comes from a society that is no longer only interested in changing how their bodies look. Clients who were once solely focused on fitness now truly want to change their minds, spirits and bodies for total wellness. They want to be proactive in their approach to wellness, and are not just seeking a diagnosis or quick fix anymore. They want to partner with their wellness care providers, and dig deeper in their pursuit to live a balanced and healthy life. The October edition of LNE & Spa focuses on longevity and wellness, highlighting the new spa culture and how to tap into the best protocols, techniques and strategies for your business. Don’t offer anything that you don’t believe in! I am always surprised when I chat with spa professionals and they reveal that they don’t receive services themselves, or even really know much about the treatments they are providing. Spa owners, keep in mind that every member of your team interacts with your guests, and they should all be promoting retail and upselling services. In order to do this effectively, they must be familiar with the retail lines and services! Nothing detracts from the wellness experience of a spa or salon more than discord between team members. If you are sensing negative feelings and energy, address it now before you get into the busy holiday season. Clients feel the bad vibes, and they do not like it! If they are absorbing negative energy from others when they come to your spa to relax, they will quickly flock to your competitors. Your top priority should be to secure staff and client longevity within your business. Speaking of business, there is no better way to revive your own business than by attending The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia at the Pennsylvania Convention Center on October 27 and 28. I look forward to seeing you soon in the City of Brotherly Love! n Wishing you a happy and healthy October!
REV062813
—Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA)
Peel, Protect & Perfect your results
305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand
Give a peel that Gives a result for summer sun damaGe.
Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com
focus on protectinG your clients investment - their results. make perfectinG the skin an every day practice.
Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller denise@lneonline.com
AdvAnced rejuvenating concepts created by and for skin care professionals
Art Director Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com
3 simPle stePs to a more Profitable Practice
peel with purpose
Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Fougere ache@lneonline.com
· Upgrade your treatment menu for fall with our renowned chemical solutions
focus on protectinG · Advanced mineral technology for superior wearability and coverage · View the collection at arcskincare.com/protection
ultrasonic system · Hydrate, plump and perfect the skin for superior anti-aging results · Promote collagen synthesis and a more youthful look
Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato
To learn more call 800 689-0499 or register online at ArcskincAre.com/sign-up Contributors
for your complementary information kit. Discover the science of skin rejuvenation.
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Samuella Becker Goldie Bonnell Carina Chatlani Diane Moran Graham Trish Green Tata Harper Nikolett Ivanyi Ben Johnson, M.D.
Jill Kohler Lake Louise Danae Markland Tim Maurer Christina Oldham Nick Ortner Jeri Ross, M.P.H. Elizabeth Rosse, Ph.D.
Enna Ruiz Katie Saxton Louis Silberman Dori Soukup Pam Stellema David Suzuki Pamela Taylor Dave Waggoner
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #120 on reader service card
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SPA
OF THE MONTH
INSPIRED BY ISTANBUL THE SPA AT TRUMP SOHO NEW YORK, NY by Samuella Becker
INSPIRED BY IVANKA TRUMP’S TRAVELS IN ISTANBUL, The Spa at Trump SoHo offers guests an enticing selection of classic treatments influenced by wellness rituals from around the world. Opened in August 2010, the 11,000-square-foot cream and brown Turkish and Moroccan-themed spa encompasses the seventh and eighth floors of the 46-story Trump SoHo Hotel, the only AAA Five Diamond rated property in trendy downtown Manhattan. It provides both residents and tourists of New York City with the ultimate oasis to “rejuvenate, reenergize and renew” in a city that never sleeps. Sophistication, quality and luxury are the cornerstones of the Trump brand. Under Ivanka Trump’s direction, The Spa at Trump SoHo was elegantly designed by award-winning hospitality and spa specialists at Diguiseppe Architecture. The Middle Eastern scheme is both sensuous and serene, with Assyrian-shaped ceilings tiled in Capiz shells to continues
Page 10 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
You outh t Shield Yo Protect against the early signs of aging
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radicals—the leading cause of fine lines and wrinkles.
to locate a spa near you.
THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1958 Toll-Free 1-888-747-6342 | info@eminenceorganics.com www.eminenceorganics.com ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE PROVIDER OF PREMIUM SKIN C ARE
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spa of the month|the spa at trump soho woven-mesh chandeliers of nickel and crystal. Upon arrival, spa-goers step through a portal of Macassar ebony into an entryway fashioned after a Moroccan courtyard, graced by a fountain carved from Calacatta gold marble. Ancient urns and tapestries accessorize the space. The wallpaper is made with spun silk. There are nine private treatment rooms and wet rooms, two separate authentic luxury hammams for men and women, a state-of-the-art fitness center with Olympic grade cardiovascular equipment, an indoor relaxation area and a well landscaped 6,000-square-foot pool deck, featuring a heated lounge pool and three private cabanas. Rounding out the spa treatment menu is a full array of classic massages, sauna and steam rituals, facials (including two exclusively for men), hair, hand and foot healing care as well as salon services (including eyelash and brow tinting, lash enhancement and waxing).
• Revitalize: Restore depleted energy and stimulate creativity. A guest’s personal intentions can determine the spa treatment they select, as well as the type of tea they are offered.
“Trump Inspired Personal Intentions”
Results-driven facials
Through the careful stimulation of the senses, Trump Inspired Personal Intentions allows guests to select, with the guidance of a spa attaché, a service that will create their desired experience and results: • Calm: Experience stillness and quiet thoughts. • Balance: Integrate harmony, compassion and well-being. • Purify: Cleanse the body and spirit. • Heal: Relax the mind and destress.
The Spa at Trump SoHo brings spa-goers exclusive skin care products and treatments favored by Hollywood celebrities. A super-hydrating oxygen treatment to calm and heal using skin-plumping dermal boosters is one of the premium selections. Another is an innovative, calming light therapy to protect the skin from free radical damage.
Awards 2013 • World Luxury Spa Awards, Best Luxury Hotel Spa • Prevention Magazine, The 50 Healthiest Eco Spas In America • Condé Nast Traveler, Top 75 U.S. Hotel Spas 2012 • Forbes Travel Guide, Four Star Spas 2011 • SpaFinder, Readers’ Choice Awards: Top Getaway Spa
Hair services Celebrity stylist Antonio Prieto has an outpost location at The Spa at Trump SoHo offering hair, makeup, brow, tanning and wedding services. Prieto’s celebrity clients include Kate Moss, Jessica Alba, Annie Lennox, Marisa Tomei and Mary J. Blige.
Exclusive to The Spa at Trump SoHo Under the domed ceilings of the hammams, pricked by tiny pinhole lights glittering like stars in the sky, spa-goers are surrounded by mosaic-tiled walls as they lose themselves in these detoxifying time-honored rituals from Turkey, Morocco, Persia and India. The Turkish Hammam treatment (45 minutes). While the spa-goer lies on a muscle-relaxing heated belly stone of Calacatta marble, a dedicated hammam attaché first exfoliates the body using a traditional handmade Kessa mitt to remove layers of dead skin. An oil-based castile soap made from coconut, palm and olive oil is then placed into a soft, pillowcase-like cloth bag. The attaché then pipes the bag as if she was piping icing onto a cake. What emerges is a frothy-white cloud of foaming soap bubbles. The treatment finishes with a full body rinse and scalp massage, leaving skin feeling like silk. The Moroccan Hammam treatment (60 minutes). Authentic Moroccan black soap crafted from olive oil and crushed olives is incorporated into a full-body exfoliation, followed by a detoxifying warm Ghassoul clay application taken from the mountains outside Istanbul. The clay and soap are used to detoxify and remineralize the skin and cells. continues
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PLEASE VISIT US AT THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA PENNSYLVANIA CONVENTION CENTER PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA OCTOBER 27,28 BOOTH: 309/311 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card
Visit our website: www.ladyburd.com
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spa of the month|the spa at trump soho Additional Middle Eastern rituals Balancing Ayurvedic Massage. This inspiration from India literally translates to mean “life knowledge.” A pre-treatment consultation identifies one’s specific dosha, based upon their emotional and physical makeup. Traditional massage techniques, combined with specific oils, create a harmonious relationship among the three doshas: Pitta (fire), Vata (art) and Kapha (earth and water). This promotes a sense of well-being through holistic therapy. Shirodhara. Intended for revitalization, this ancient Ayurvedic therapy has been used for centuries to restore an inner calm to the mind and balance to the nervous system. The Shirodhara begins with a gentle stream of warm herb infused oil onto the third eye. The oil is then massaged into the hair and scalp, followed by an application of Ayurvedic herbs to nourish hair roots and condition the scalp. Henna. Henna has been around since the Bronze Age to adorn the bodies of young women as a form of body art, and is used as an expression of joy, luck and beauty. Threading. An ancient method of hair removal, originating in Persia, utilizes a pure, thin cotton thread for accuracy.
Trump Signature Gemstone Spa Treatments Gemstone massages are relatively rare. The 90-minute Trump Signature Gemstone Spa Treatments offer serenity through precious gem-infused oils, combined with rare flower and herbal essences. The treatments include: Balancing Diamonds Massage. Diamonds have been used since ancient times to balance the crown chakra, providing clarity, inspiration and enlightenment. The oils used in this massage are infused with the healing benefits of precious diamonds and botanical essences, saturating the skin and creating the ultimate indulgence. Purifying Emeralds Massage. Emeralds are said to hold the energy of the Earth, integrating harmony, compassion and well-being. Precious emeralds represent the heart chakra, and are infused into the oils used in this massage, inspiring the healing benefits of essential herbs and flowers. Revitalizing Rubies Massage. The deep reds of the ruby represent the grounding principles of the root chakra. When in balance, the body is invigorated and vivacious, stimulating continues
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Circadia Has Got You Covered!
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Our environment requires daily protection with new levels of performance. Award-winning photo stabilizer Solastay速 S1 reduces sensitivity issues often associated with UV absorbers. New age antioxidants Lipochroman-6TM and PreventheliaTM prevent damage to DNA proteins caused directly or indirectly by UV exposure. This light lotion contains grape stem cell culture extract to enhance photo-protection and delay cell senescence. Fast absorbing with an elegant feel, this is your ideal daily use product.
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Philadelphia, PA October 27-28, 2013
Committed to bringing you the latest technology in skin science through education and innovative product development. 800.630.4710 | Circadia.com
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spa of the month|the spa at trump soho stability and creativity. Oils containing the infused properties of rubies are used to revitalize the body, clear negativity and reveal an uplifted inner self. Calming Sapphires Massage. The sapphire’s rich indigo blue represents the third eye chakra, symbolizing wisdom and inner peace. Experience stillness and quiet thought during this healing treatment. Oils that inspire tranquility and calm the mind are used, leaving the guest in peace.
Special experiences and offers Birthday bling. When visiting the spa on their birthday, spagoers are gifted with a special age-based discount on a Trump Signature Gemstone Spa Treatment. For example, a guest who is celebrating turning 54 years “young” will save $54. A 90-minute Birthstone Massage is regularly priced at $295/ weekday or $325/weekend. Mom’s the word. The prenatal spa package is intended for healing and revitalization. Expectant mothers are “babied” by the spa’s expert therapists, who understand the needs of a mother-to-be’s ever-changing body, utilizing body support cushions to provide the ultimate in comfort. A prenatal massage, intended to ease away the aches and strain of pregnancy, is followed by a Crystal Divine Foot Treatment, which combines an exclusive blend of active ingredients and a healing quartz crystal rub to restore and rebalance the feet and lower legs. This process ensures that the guest is left with beautifully pedicured feet and energized legs. Moms-to-be are also gifted with a premium product. Pricing for a 150-minute prenatal spa package is $400/weekday or $430/weekend. Bathing practices. The Art of Bathing is a journey that begins at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where guests visit the spectacular Greek and Roman gallieries to view artifacts and artwork that chronicles the origins of today’s bathing rituals, including the Turkish hammam. Returning by private transportation to the spa, guests then experience the actual bathing ritual, beginning with a detoxifying eucalyptus steam bath (healing benefits include hydration, detoxification, increased circulation and tension release). A relaxing Turkish or Moroccan Hammam treatment is next, concluding with a mood enhancing and invigorating cool-down service. The Art of Bathing package has a starting price of $965 per room per night, which includes all of the amenities mentioned above.
Retail therapy. Guests enjoy a complimentary amenity upon check-in, daily breakfast for two people to fuel up for a day of shopping, discounts at local SoHo stores, a shopping map to navigate the way, two bottled waters and four nutrition bars for sustenance. Guests also enjoy either one 60-minute Crystal Divine foot treatment or one 30-minute reflexology massage to soothe tired muscles. Game, set, match! With convenient access to the U.S. Open, Trump SoHo provides tennis fans with a bottle of organic sunscreen and a 30-minute massage to soothe sore muscles.
Live the life and live it well The Trump Hotel Collection wants their guests to not only “live the life,” but to live it well. Thus, on June 17, 2013, the family-run luxury hotel brand (presided over by internationally renowned developer Donald J. Trump and his three grown children—Donald Jr., Ivanka and Eric) announced the debut of TRUMP Wellness, which the company calls the “most comprehensive and integrated wellness program of any luxury hotel brand.” This trio of programs allows guests to maintain (and even elevate) their own healthy lifestyle/diet and exercise preferences when traveling. The first program, Nourish, enhances each in-room dining menu at the hotel with a range of options, including vegan, gluten-free and organic selections, all with complete nutritional values disclosed. A healthy menu for kids offers breakfast, lunch and dinner for the junior set. Minibars have been revamped with healthier snacks to replace the standard fare. At least one third of all choices at each hotel are in a health food category. As part of the Nourish program, Trump Hotel Collection’s culinary teams have partnered with organic certifying companies to develop a selection of menu items made with ingredients that are sourced locally and delivered fresh daily. The second program, Quick Bites, is designed to accommodate busy lifestyles. The express in-room menu incontinues
Page 16 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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spa of the month|the spa at trump soho cludes delicious, health-wise options. Delivery for all items is guaranteed to take 15 minutes or less. These food selections can be taken to go, and were created specifically for guests with time constraints. The third program, Travel Fit, makes it easy for guests to maintain their workout regime while traveling, whether they choose to exercise in their room or the fitness center. Yoga mats, stretch bands and light weights are available upon request. Fitness apparel and footwear are
®
Advanced Essentials
provided for any guest, along with preloaded iPod tunes customized to the guest’s personal music genre preferences. Fitness centers are stocked with training cards portraying easy-to-follow workouts, developed exclusively for Trump guests. Maps of local running paths have been designed by each hotel in the Trump Hotel Collection for outdoor exercisers. Launched in October 2007, Trump Hotel Collection’s prestigious portfolio includes the Trump International Hotel & Tower New York, Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago, Trump Interna tional Hotel Las Vegas, Trump Inter national Hotel Waikiki Beach Walk, Trump SoHo New York, Trump Ocean Club International Hotel & Tower Panama, Trump International Hotel & Tower Toronto, and the newly acquired Trump National Doral Miami. In addition, Trump International Hotel in Washington, D.C., a redevelopment of the historic Old Post Office building, is scheduled to open in 2016. n The Spa at Trump SoHo 246 Spring Street New York, NY, 10013 TrumpSoHoHotel.com
Restore the skin’s natural, essential elements. With our full line of collagen and ceramide boosting products. For a youthful radiance starting at the foundation. •Enhance Professional Treatments •Increase Retail Sales 1.877.367.7744
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Samuella Becker has created and implemented strategic PR/marketing strategies for holistic nutritionist and author Sally Kravich, the Actors Studio Drama School and the Lu-Jean Feng Clinic. She is especially passionate about launching new businesses, which she did for Joanna Vargas Salon, Skin Care Sanctuary in 2006. Learn more at linkedin.com/in/samuellabecker.
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photos courtesy of The Spa at Trump SoHo
Learn more about wellness programs at Trump hotels at trumphotelcollection.com/ trump-wellness.php.
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Rebuild your skin from the
inside out Introducing Control Corrective’s EGF Serum 30
Our proprietary concentration of multiple epidermal growth factors derived from fibroblast media stimulate the skin’s natural tissue repair and rejuvenation process. Liposome encapsulated DNA enzymes work to shorten the repair time from sun damage and natural aging.
Epidermal Growth Factors – Developed to encourage faster, healthier wound healing by boosting the skin’s production of collagen and elastin fibers, restoring resiliency, texture, tone and consistency to the skin Superior Functionality – Diminishes signs of aging around the eyes, the full face, the body and hands Total Compatibility – Safe and efficacious for all skin types and compatible with retinol, antioxidant and sunscreen regimens
Client: 68 years old. Results after 1 month of EGF Serum 30 use. Before and after images are not retouched.
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Professional Skincare Since 1997
Contact controlcorrective.com | 866.290.4290 | info@controlcorrective.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #272 on reader service card
THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA
REGISTRATION ALL - INCLUSIVE
$60
2 - DAY ADMISSION
$40
1 - DAY ADMISSION
SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER BY 10/04/13 2-DAY ADMISSION IS $75 AFTER 10/04/13 1-DAY ADMISSION IS $50 AFTER 10/04/13
• All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical Facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track • Salon/Spa Seminar Management • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Image Seminar • Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • AIA-Aesthetics International Association • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • All Manufacturers’ Demonstration Stages • Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors
5
PRESENTED BY
WAYS TO REGISTER:
PHONE: 1.800.471.0229 1.305.443.2322 ONLINE: LNEONLINE.com E-MAIL: Registration@LNEONLINE.com
PHILADELPHIA
PENNSYLVANIA CONVENTION CENTER
OCT 27 & 28, 2013 ENDORSED BY
FAX:
1.305.443.1664
MAIL:
Aesthetic Expo 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, FL 33134
Show Hours: SUNDAY OCTOBER 27
from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
MONDAY OCTOBER 28 from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
PENNSYLVANIA CONVENTION CENTER 1101 Arch St, Philadelphia, PA 19107
SPONSORED BY
HOTEL & TRAVEL INFORMATION HAMPTON INN
Superior – Tourist Class
Located across the street from Convention Center NON- SMOKING HOTEL
Rates are Per night
SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD
$138
$138
$148
$148
Includes Deluxe Continental Breakfast
HOME 2 SUITES by HILTON Superior – First Class
Located across the street from Convention Center NON- SMOKING HOTEL
SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD
$149
$149
$159
$169
Includes Deluxe Continental Breakfast
HILTON GARDEN INN First Class
Located across the street from Convention Center NON- SMOKING HOTEL
SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD
$155
$155
$165
$175
$175
$175
$185
$195
Standard Room Junior Suite
FOUR POINTS by SHERATON Superior – First Class
Located 1 block from Convention Center NON- SMOKING HOTEL
SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD
$159
$159
$179
$179
Includes Continental Breakfast
COURTYARD by MARRIOTT Superior – First Class
Located 1 block from Convention Center NON- SMOKING HOTEL
LE MERIDIEN PHILADELPHIA Deluxe
Located 1 block from Convention Center NON- SMOKING HOTEL
SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD
$166
$166
$166
SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD
$219
$219
RESERVE YOUR HOTEL Visit our website: www.LNEONLINE.com E-mail: registration@LNEONLINE.com
$166
Tel: 1.800.471.0229 Fax: 1.305.443.1664
ALL HOTEL RATES ARE PER NIGHT: Plus 14% room tax. Congress rates are subject to availability. CANCELLATION PENALTIES: $50 cancellation fee if reservations are cancelled after 10/11/13. Full one night deposit if cancelled after 10/18/13. Cancellation penalties are STRICTLY ENFORCED.
AIRLINE RESERVATION To make your airline reservations at the best possible airfare contact Vivian P. Lodeiro at vlodeiro@expresstravelus.com or call 1.305.341.1200 ext 256.
GETTING TO PHILADELPHIA BY TRAIN Taking a train is a fast, inexpensive and easy way to travel. Save on gas and hotel parking fees. Amtrak Rail Service, for information call: 1.800.872.7245 or visit www.amtrak.com and refer to convention fare code X73P-974. Patco, for information call: 1.856.772.6900 or 1.215.922.4600 or visit www.ridepatco.org. Septa, for information call: 1.215.580.7800 or 1.215.580.4000 or visit www.septa.com.
AIRPORT SHUTTLE AND TAXICAB SERVICES The shuttle fare from the airport to the city center is approx. $10. Taxicab service is approx. $28. For more information please call 1.215.937.6958 or visit the Philadelphia airport’s website at www.phl.org.
$239
$259
GENERAL SESSION SUNDAY – OCTOBER 27 9:30 a.m. 9:45 a.m. 10:15 a.m. 10:45 a.m. 11:15 a.m. 12:15 p.m.
DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS
Opening Ceremony by William Strunk Creating Your Legacy (LECTURE) by Susanne Warfield CRYSTAL AWARD Presentation Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa honors Susanne Warfield Bamboo Fusion: Warm Bamboo Massage (DEMO) by Nathalie Cecilia Mechanisms That Facilitate Skin Cell Hydration (LECTURE) by Michael Q. Pugliese The Benefits of 8 Hours of Sleep in a 10-Minute Facial Massage (DEMO) by Ellie Malmin Bare to Beautiful (DEMO) by Pamela Taylor
MONDAY – OCTOBER 28 9:30 a.m. 9:45 a.m. 10:15 a.m. 10:45 a.m. 11:15 a.m. 11:45 a.m.
Welcome Ceremony by William Strunk Treating Ethnic Skin (LECTURE) by Pamela Springer Brightening Body Treatments for the “Neglected Areas” (DEMO) by Aleks Vranicic Consumer Perception of Peels: Minimizing the Fear Factor (LECTURE) by Cheryl Staurowsky Oncology Skin Therapy (LECTURE/DEMO) by Anne C. Willis Increase Profitability With Ingrown Treatments (LECTURE/DEMO) by Stephanie G. Laynes
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 27
DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS
MEDICAL ESTHETICS SEMINAR ROOM 107 AB 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
The Next Step in Your Career, From Salon to Working With a Physician by Susanne S. Warfield Emergency Medical Care in Your Salon & Spa by Susanne S. Warfield
The COA has approved these classes for 1 CE each
MEDICAL FACILITIES, AESTHETIC AND WELLNESS CENTER TRACK ROOM 108 B 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m. 4:15 p.m.
Journey Into Profits With Aesthetic and Wellness Programs by Dori Soukup Say Goodbye to the à la Carte Mentality and Hello to Innovative Multi Visit Programs! by Dori Soukup Managing Stress: Steps You Can Take and Teach, Personally and Professionally by Robert and Melanie Sachs
SALON/SPA BUSINESS MANAGEMENT SEMINAR ROOM 108 A 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
Sales Strategies: The Changing Landscape of Spa Retail by Alison Howland How to Build a Spa Dream Team: Identifying Outstanding Employees by Alison Howland
NATIONAL AESTHETIC SPA NETWORK (NASN) ROOM 111 AB 4:00 p.m.
Survivor Skills for Estheticians and Spa Professionals (Roundtables) by Denise R. Fuller, Mary Turner, Kaffee Keldie and Pamela Springer
AESTHETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) ROOM 103 B 2:00 p.m. 4:00 p.m.
Set Yourself up for Success in the Treatment Room by Trish Yaniga Keys to Success by William Strunk
MONDAY, OCTOBER 28 MEDICAL SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR ROOM 108 A 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
Add Medical Spa Services to Your Business by Francis Acunzo Marketing Your Med Spa by Francis Acunzo
CUTTING-EDGE SALON/SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR ROOM 107 AB 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.
Social Media: Making Sense of the Madness by Erika Frankel Getting a Handle on Online Marketing by Erika Frankel
IMAGE SEMINAR ROOM 108 B 2:00 p.m. 3:00 p.m.
Building a Profitable Nail Department by Millie Haynam The Face Lift Effect With Contouring, Highlighting and Enhancing Techniques by Pamela Taylor
AESTHETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) ROOM 103 B 2:00 p.m.
Twice the Money, Half the Time With Waxing by Nicole Gallerie
PRE-CONGRESS SATURDAY, OCTOBER 26 NATIONAL ESTHETIC TEACHER TRAINING (NETT) All Day Conference – Room 307 A
Visit www.LNEONLINE.com for conference details. Registration: $125.00 for NCEA members (INCLUDES 2-DAY ADMISSION TO THE CONGRESS)
$149.00 for Non-members (INCLUDES 2-DAY ADMISSION TO THE CONGRESS)
DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS
WORKSHOPS
SUNDAY OCT 27 - 2:00 P.M. TO 3:00 P.M.
ROOM 102 A-B
NATURE PURE LABS SW, INC. Instant Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift With Age Reversing Organic Bioactives and Microneedling by Victoria Tabak
ROOM 103 A
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE The ABCs of vitamins A, C, D and E by Michael Q. Pugliese
ROOM 104 A
PCA SKIN Dispelling Skin Care Myths and Misconceptions by Dawn Ahearn
ROOM 104 B
CHRISTINA USA The Science and Treatment of Hyperpigmentation by Iris Safar
ROOM 105 A-B
RHONDA ALLISON Techniques and Tips for a Successful Outcome! by Rhonda Allison
ROOM 106 A-B
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic and Microcurrent Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products by Dasha Saian
ROOM 109 A-B
LIGHTSTIM LED Light Therapy: Results and Rewards by Vivian McClanahan
ROOM 110 A-B
SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY, INC. Speed Waxing With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes
ROOM 111 A-B
MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. Fast $$$ Comes From Fixing all Esthetic Skin Imperfections Permanently by Lana Yu
ROOM 112 A
A NATURAL DIFFERENCE SKIN CARE Maximize the Power and Results of Your Treatments by Irene Stuckey
ROOM 112 B
DERMAWARE BIO-TARGETED SKIN CARE® BIO-MOLECULAR Age Control by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone
ROOM 113 A
GLYMED PLUS Advanced Diagramming by Christine Heathman
ROOM 113 B
B.KAMINS LABORATORIES Power Facials: Enjoy the Benefits Without the Downtime by Boldijarre Koronczay
ROOM 113 C
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Master the Hungarian Massage Techniques for the Instant Facelift by Ryan Christopher
ROOM 102 A-B
HYDROPEPTIDE Evolution of Peptides by April Zangl
ROOM 103 A
VITELLE LABS Private Label: One of the Best Business Decisions You Will Ever Make! by Aleks Vranicic
ROOM 104 A
PCA SKIN Advanced Peeling Techniques by Dawn Ahearn
ROOM 104 B
CHRISTINA USA The Science and Treatment of Hyperpigmentation by Iris Safar
ROOM 105 A-B
RHONDA ALLISON Insight Into Acids by Rhonda Allison
ROOM 106 A-B
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Newest Clinical Hyperpigmentation Treatment From the Anti-Aging Experts! Non-toxic Alternatives to Hydroquinone That Safely Whiten and Brighten the Complexion. Live Demo! by Dasha Saian
ROOM 109 A-B
NATIONAL LASER INSTITUTE Use Cosmetic Technologies Like Lasers, Intense Pulse Light and Radiofrequency to Advance Your Career and Earn More Money by Crissy Noble
ROOM 110 A-B
BIO JOUVANCE, INC. Microneedle Therapy Nonsurgical Face Lift Plus Bio Matrix Dermal Filler Alternative to Restylane®: The Latest in Anti-Aging Skin Care by Sonia Boghosian
ROOM 112 A
SESHA SKIN THERAPY How to Address Hyperpigmentation: Effective Ingredients and Techniques by Phyllis Hsieh
ROOM 112 B
DERMAWARE BIO-TARGETED SKIN CARE Corrective Peeling®: Advanced Jessner Face Lift Peel by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone
ROOM 113 A
SKIN BLENDS, LLC Excelling is fun! 5 easy and proven ways to excel! by Kathleen Carney
ROOM 113 C
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Newest Trends in Natural Skin Care - Don’t Be Left Behind! by Boldijarre Koronczay
DEMONSTRATION STAGES STAGE A
SUNDAY OCT 27 - 3:30 P.M. TO 4:30 P.M. .
SUNDAY OCT 27 - 2:00 P.M. TO 3:00 P.M.
EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA The Use of Essential Oils in the Cancer Care Environment by Trish Green
STAGE B
DERME&CO Rosacea: Micro-Encapsulation of Natural Active Ingredients by Michael Ibbott
STAGE C
OSMOSIS SKINCARE Connecting Internal Wellness and Skin Conditions by Ben Johnson, M.D.
STAGE D
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Science of SWiCH Dermal Rejuvenation System by Barbara Wilmot
SUNDAY OCT 27 - 3:30 P.M. TO 4:30 P.M. STAGE A
EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA A New Approach to the Aromatherapy Spa Experience by Trish Green
STAGE B
DERME&CO Hyperpigmentation: Treat without damaging! Natural Ingredients to Effectively Lighten Skin Pigmentation by Michael Ibbott
STAGE C
OSMOSIS SKINCARE Color Me With Treatment by Alejandro Falcon
STAGE D
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE The Next Generation of Peptide Technology by Michael Q. Pugliese
WORKSHOPS
MONDAY OCT 28 - 2:00 P.M. TO 3:00 P.M.
ROOM 102 A-B
NATURE PURE LABS SW, INC. True Breakthrough in Cellulite Treatment - No Equipment or Shower Needed by Victoria Tabak
ROOM 103 A
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Pigmentation Disorders: Causes and Treatments by Michael Q. Pugliese
ROOM 104 A
PCA SKIN® Hormones and the Skin by Dawn Ahearn
ROOM 104 B
MEG 21 Overcoming the Effects of Toxic Sugar in Aging Skin by Vivian McClanahan
ROOM 106 A-B
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift, and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic and Microcurrent Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products by Dasha Saian
ROOM 109 A-B
BIO JOUVANCE, INC. Microneedle Therapy Nonsurgical Face Lift Plus Bio Choice Alternative to Botox®, the Latest in Anti-aging Skin Care by Sonia Boghosian
ROOM 110 A-B
SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY, INC. Speed Waxing With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes
ROOM 111 A-B
MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. Fast $$$ Comes From Fixing All Esthetic Skin Imperfections Permanently by Lana Yu
ROOM 112 A
SPAWARE SOFTWARE Using Social Media With Automated Marketing and the Easy 5-Step Selling Process by Blake Rector
ROOM 112 B
TEI SPA BEAUTY Beauty on the Go by TEI Spa Beauty Tools Beauty Tools for the Traveling Esthetician! by Barbara Montgomery
ROOM 113 A
GLYMED PLUS Age Defying Peel: by Christine Heathman
ROOM 113 C
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Hungarian Secrets for Anti-Aging Massage Techniques-Advanced by Boldijarre Koronczay
MONDAY OCT 28 - 3:30 P.M. TO 4:30 P.M. ROOM 104 A
PCA SKIN Chemical Peels for Sensitive Skin Conditions and Ethnic Skin by Dawn Ahearn
ROOM 113 C
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE The Organic Way: Treating Acne, Rosacea and Eczema with Natural Ingredients by Boldijarre Koronczay
DEMONSTRATION STAGES
MONDAY OCT 28 - 2:00 P.M. TO 3:00 P.M.
STAGE A
EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA Clinical Aromatherapy for the Spa by Trish Green
STAGE B
DERME&CO Fat Reduction and Skin Tightening: New Revolutionary Treatment by Michael Ibbott
STAGE C
OSMOSIS SKINCARE Connecting Internal Wellness and Skin Conditions by Ben Johnson, M.D.
STAGE D
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Using Enzymes and Oxygen for Treating Acne and Rosacea by Barbara Wilmot
MONDAY OCT 28 - 3:30 P.M. TO 4:30 P.M. STAGE A
EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA Lympahtic Drainage for the Face by Trish Green
STAGE B
DERME&CO Lifting Facial Without Surgery: Combining Natural Active Ingredients and Breakthrough Manual Techniques From Switzerland by Michael Ibbott
STAGE C
OSMOSIS SKINCARE Color Me With Treatment by Alejandro Falcon
STAGE D
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Bioenergetics of the Skin by Michael Q. Pugliese
EXHIBITOR LIST AS OF AUGUST 1ST, 2013
A Natural Difference Skin Care Aesthetics Complete Aesthetics Unique AIA - Aesthetics International Association Alex Cosmetic Herbal A-Peel Associated Skin Care Professionals Athena Beauty, Inc. Athena Cosmetics B & S Beauty Supply B. Kamins Laboratories Bamboo-Fusion® Beauty Attica, Inc. Beauty Image Bella Schneider Beauty Bio France Lab Bio Jouvance, Inc. Biomani Advanced Medical Aesthetics Blinc, Inc. Bon Vital Bronze Biologic Brush Up With Barbara Cailyn Cosmetics Cass Luxury Shapewear Christina USA Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Clarisonic ClearFX Skin Conair Satin Smooth Contemporary Cosmetic Group Cosmetheque Crown Brush Company Danielle Cosmetic Division Dead Sea Pavilion Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills, Inc. DermaMed Solutions, LLC Dermascope Magazine Dermaware Bio-Targeted Skin Care Derme & Co Diamond Way Ayurveda DPC Int’l Inc. Dr. Jeff Skin Care
Equipro Eve Taylor North America Extend Your Lashes Eye Kandy Cosmetics France Laure Paris Germaine de Capuccini GlyMed Plus Gold Cosmetics & Skin Care Grande Hair Grande Lash-MD Hale Cosmeceuticals, Inc. Health Mate Sauna HydraFacial MD® - Edge Systems HydroPeptide Infra-Slim Body Contouring Insparation Management Instantly Ageless J.M. Group JMTBeauty.com Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa LightStim Lightwave-Ltw Tech Longmi Lashes by Daniel Lumavera M.A. Dermaceuticals Magazine Service Outlet (CMS of Holland) Martinni Beauty, Inc. Meditime MedSpa Distributors, Inc. Mineral Mine Makeup MEG 21 Minkys National Laser Institute Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. Nelly de Vuyst, Derme.Ca Nouveau Cosmetique (Dermatude) Nufree Nudesse Nurses Services Organization NutraLuxe MD Osmosis Skincare
Perfect Choice Trading, Inc.
Éminence Organic Skin Care
PCA Skin
Yum Gourmet Skincare
PFB Vanish, Inc. Physiodermie, Derme.Ca Pinnacle Cosmetics Platinum Equipment, Derme.Ca Private Label Dental Pure Inventions RA for Men Rapid Lash Revitalash Reviva Labs Rhonda Allison Rose Skin Care Products Saian Natural Clinical Skin Care Salonwear Satiness Waxing Care Sesha Skin Therapy Shira Silhouet-Tone Skin Blends, LLC. Skin Script Skin Care SkinAct Smooth Skin Supply LLC. Spa Manufacturer Direct SpaBooker Sparenity Spasbest Supplies Spaware Software Sranrom Sun Laboratories TEI Spa Essentials Teka Fine Line Brushes, Inc. The M’lis Company Therapmedic Tizo By Fallene VB Beauty Vias Partners Vitality FX Detoxification Station Vitamix Vitelle Labs
THE 2013 OFFICIAL SKIN CARE OF
MISS UNIVERSE O R G A N I Z AT I O N
A BREATH OF FRESH SKIN
A LUXURY SPA TREATMENT TO
oxygenate, exfoliate AND illuminate.
The Power of Oxygen: Promotes Cell Regeneration Brightens Complexion Eliminates Toxins Speeds Healing
CALL TODAY FOR A LIVE DEMONSTRATION 888.982.7969 | IMAGESKINCARE.COM | INFO@IMAGESKINCARE.COM Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #178 on reader service card
skin
skin care culture
by Nikolett Ivanyi
I give my clients my cell phone number and tell them they can call or text whenever they like. I want clients to know that I genuinely care about them and their skin. My clients appreciate this option, and they have not abused it. Put yourself in your clients’ shoes. People are bombarded with confusing information and mixed messages when it comes to skin care. They often jump from one product to another, and then become discouraged when they don’t
Clients feel reassured when you let them know you will be there for them every step of the way. I give my clients my cell phone number and tell them they can call or text whenever they like. trial and error, I ultimately educated myself on how to take care of it; however I wish I could have had the benefit of a licensed esthetician’s advice. A professional who understood the value of educating on skin care and how it relates to whole-body wellness would have been very helpful to me. With education and the right guidance, everyone is capable of achieving beautiful skin. In your busy daily operations, how are you coaching your clients and guiding them in the right direction? As an owner and esthetician, I know how challenging it is to be diligent in the customer care process. Here are some ideas that work in my practice. Practice compassion and empathy. Unlike busy doctors who don’t have an hour to spend with a guest, as a skin care professional you do have time, and I encourage you to use it. Clients feel reassured when you let them know you will be there for them every step of the way.
see results. It’s not that the products are no good; in most cases, the consumer just does not understand how they work. Take the time to fully understand their questions and concerns, and then respond with thoughtful answers. Educate, educate, educate. You cannot over educate when it comes to skin care. The first time we meet with a new client, we do a thorough consultation, reviewing their lifestyle, diet, exercise habits, skin care routine, medications, supplements, etc. We then zero in on their specific skin care conditions and concerns. If acne is their challenge, we educate them on what acne is, why it happens and how it can be eliminated. It is very important that clients fully understand their skin issues. Establish open communication. Communication is key in any relationship! Explain to clients how treatments work, the expectations of proper home care and the routine they should follow. Let
them know that you will be contacting them within the first week for follow up questions. Skin care is not a one-size-fitsall approach; this open communication is critical to their success. Know your audience. Work with all ages. I have found that teens, men and women vary in the ways they like to communicate. Teenagers like to text, and you often have to review the same things with them several times. I call them out when they are not following their routine—and this gets their attention! Men are often easier to coach than women and like to have a routine. With female clients, calls and emails tend to work best. Compliance. Realize that if people are interested in your advice, they will listen! It can be really frustrating when someone is not compliant. If I feel like someone is not following the program, I explain to them that the results depend heavily on their home care. If you have a client who is repeatedly noncompliant, it is best to part ways. Open communication, professionalism and a flexible treatment plan are the keys to developing a skin care culture of success in your business. n
Nikolett Ivanyi is the founder and owner of Envision Acne and Skin Care Center in Manalapan, NJ. She is a licensed esthetician, certified acne specialist and certified wax specialist. Ivanyi’s skin care philosophy is that with education and the right guidance, everybody is capable of achieving beautiful skin. For more details, visit envisionacnecenter.com.
Page 28 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Rudolf Madár/Shutterstock.com
SKIN CARE GOES FAR BEYOND the surface. What appears on the skin’s surface is a direct reflection of what is going on inside the body, influenced by fitness, nutrition, stress and sleep. Clients with skin care concerns must be coached to go beneath the surface for the root causes of the problems. As a former acne sufferer, I know what my clients are going through. At age 24, I experienced bumps and breakouts for the first time. Through a lot of
Dermal stress comes from many sources! Unstress is enriched with probiotics to help calm and rebalance the skin, powerful antioxidants and peptides that support the natural skin protection mechanism and deeply nourishing agents that help minimize stress induced skin damage.
Before
| Tel: 1-888-604-6268 (se habla espanol) | Fax: 1-941-296-7320 | Web: https://shop.christina-usa.com | E-mail: customerservice@christina-usa.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #107 on reader service card
After
skin
OVERALL
SKIN TREATMENT STRATEGIES WHILE IT IS A GIVEN THAT SKIN CARE CLIENTS FOCUS closely on the outside appearance of their skin, it is important that we as clinicians stress how important the structure underneath it is, and educate them about how it impacts what they see in the mirror. Ensuring positive overall skin health is a combination of understanding how skin works, treating the entire body and providing the right treatments for the right conditions.
Within the skin The two main layers of skin are the epidermis and the dermis, which are separated by the stratum basale, also called the basal layer. The outermost layer of the skin is the epidermis, which is protected by the stratum corneum and sits above the basal layer; while the dermis (the lower section of the skin) is directly above the adipose layer. The health of your client’s skin is dependent on the condition of both layers, as they work together to support the skin’s structure and appearance. If the structure begins to fail, it can result in wrinkles, sagging, loss of elasticity and enlarged pores. While all clients share the same basic skin structure, their Fitzpatrick type will inform individual treatment plans. For positive results across the entire Fitzpatrick spectrum, there should be an in-depth consultation, careful treatment selection and considerate post-treatment care.
Client consultation During the initial consultation, build a rapport with the client. Then, after discussing the conditions to be treated, walk them through various treatment and daily care options prior to performing their first professional service. Daily care products that address the skin conditions to be treated will balance and prepare the skin, and help reduce the potential of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) that could arise once professional treatments commence, especially in higher Fitzpatrick type clients. For the actual treatment, be cognizant when selecting the proper chemical peel or professional mask for each Fitzpatrick type to avoid any potential adverse reactions. In general, lower Fitzpatrick types often experience visible redness during the treatment but are less prone to PIH. For higher Fitzpatrick types, visible redness may not be present
during application. However, be sensitive to the potential for PIH that can be caused by using peels that do not contain melanogenesis-inhibiting agents. Post-treatment, provide every client with the correct aftercare products to reduce the chance of complications brought on by the use of other formulas that could cause unwanted inflammation and interfere with skin returning to baseline. Consider the following post-care products: a gentle cleanser, a low percentage (0.5) hydrocortisone cream, a soothing and calming hydrator, a healing occlusive balm and a broad spectrum sunscreen.
Treating the face vs. the body Most clients are aware that different types of treatments are used for different conditions, but many don’t realize that treatment needs differ for facial and bodily skin concerns. An important difference between the skin on the face and the body is that the majority of our sebaceous glands are located on our face and scalp, making dry, impacted skin more common on the body. As a result, body care products typically focus more on hydration and exfoliation than their facial counterparts. Skin thickness must also be considered, since facial skin tends to be about .12 mm thick, while the skin on the body is typically around .60 mm thick. The increased thickness is both a pro and a con. Thicker skin can result in issues such as bacterial proliferation and hyperkeratosis, but it can also withstand more intense treatments.
Ingredients for specific skin concerns Clients seek treatments for numerous conditions that affect the face and body. Typical concerns about facial skin include wrinkles, scarring, acne and keratoses, while the most common body concerns for clients include acne, keratosis pilaris (KP), atopic dermatitis (eczema) and hyperpigmentation. For most facial skin concerns, chemical peels are great options. Peels can be used for textural imperfections, acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation and hyperkeratinization. There are a wide variety of peel solutions available today, so choosing the appropriate depth and intensity for your clients’ Fitzpatrick continues
BY DANAE MARKLAND Page 30 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #332
skin|overall skin treatment strategies type, along with the condition and area of the body being treated, is critical for positive outcomes. For clients with wrinkling, scarring, keratoses or other textural imperfections on the face and body, a peel featuring trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is an ideal option. TCA is appropriate for all Fitzpatrick types. The percentage and whether or not it is blended with any other actives or antiinflammatory agents will vary based on skin type. Clinicians should be careful about using higher percentages of TCA on higher Fitzpatrick types to avoid PIH. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are another group of exfoliating acids that can be used in percentages ranging from 10 to 70. AHAs in general are suitable for Fitzpatrick types I-VI, and can help treat acne, hyperpigmentation and the signs of visible aging. Again, high percentages of straight AHAs do run the risk of PIH in higher Fitzpatrick types. Retinoids encompass the vitamin A family and encourage collagen production, stimulate cellular turnover and inhibit follicle keratinization, making them useful for many skin conditions, including acne, visible aging and hyperpigmentation. Retinoids can be used alone or in conjunction with other liquid peel solutions to increase post-treatment exfoliation and results. A Jessner’s solution, the first blended acid chemical peel, is a combination of lactic acid, salicylic acid and resorcinol. Modified and enhanced versions also include melanogenesis inhibitors to reduce the occurrence of PIH. A Jessner’s solution is most effective when treating hyperpigmentation, acne and premature aging. One condition that clinicians will encounter on both the face and body is acne. When treating acne on the body,
your aim should be the reduction of inflammation, regular exfoliation, and keeping the affected area as clean and free of debris as possible. When choosing a topical keratolytic, consider salicylic acid, as it controls inflammation while still fully penetrating the impacted follicle. Bear in mind that salicylic acid needs to remain on the skin in order to exert its effect, so it works better for treatment products than for washing purposes. Benzoyl peroxide works instantly, so it is a good choice for cleansers as well as leave-on products. Keratosis pilaris (KP) is a genetic condition in which small bumps appear around hair follicles, leading to a rough texture that typically occurs on the back of the arms and the tops of the thighs and buttocks. The best way to treat KP is with moisturizers that also exfoliate, as these products will remove the hyperkeratinization around the hair follicle. Good ingredients to look for are salicylic and lactic acids, or a humectant like glycerin. Atopic dermatitis, or eczema, is a genetic skin disorder that manifests predominantly on the backs of the knees, insides of the elbows and tops of the hands and face. But it can appear anywhere on the body. The condition, which is characterized by red, scaly dry patches that are typically itchy and lead to weeping, cracked skin, is often triggered by stress or a topical allergen, like laundry detergent or soap. At this time, there is no cure for eczema, but treatments can include products with AHAs, heavy moisturizers, corticosteroid creams and, in severe cases, oral or topical prescription products. continues
FITZPATRICK SKIN TYPE AND CORRELATING SENSITIVITIES Fitzpatrick skin type
skin color
common hereditary backgrounds
visual reaction to sun
typical sensitivity to chemical peels
common adverse responses to UV rays
I
pale white
Nordic, Scandinavian (Swedish, Danish)
always burns, never tans
very resilient
skin cancer and hypopigmentation
II
white
Irish, English, Welsh
usually burns
resilient
skin cancer and telangiectasias
III
light brown (naturally tan)
Asian, Mediterranean (Italian, Greek)
mildly burns, tans relatively well
moderately responsive
skin cancer, telangiectasias and hyperpigmentation
IV
moderate brown
Hispanic, Middle Eastern, African American, Native American
rarely burns, tans well
sensitive
hyperpigmentation
V
dark brown
Hispanic, Middle Eastern, African American, Native American, Southeast Asian
very rarely burns, tans easily
moderately sensitive
hyperpigmentation
VI
black
African American, Southeast Asian
least likely to burn, tans very darkly
very sensitive
hyperpigmentation
Page 32 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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Hyperpigmentation, while commonly treated on the face with chemical peels, is just as frequently treated on the body on areas like the hands, arms, chest and back. Typically, hyperpigmentation is caused by sun damage, but it can also be a hormonal response, and can appear anywhere that skin trauma has taken place. To help accelerate repair, chemical peels that include lactic acid, malic acid and TCA are recommended. Clinicians should also encourage the daily use of products that include hydroquinone; undecylenoyl phenylalanine; and phytic, kojic and azelaic acids to fight the melanogenesis process at multiple points.
Ingredients for all While no two clients are alike, there are certain ingredients that benefit everyone, and should be included in daily care regimens. These ingredients are antioxidants, matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi), peptides, humectants, occlusives and broad spectrum UV protection. Antioxidants help neutralize free radicals, particles that damage the skin below the surface and accelerate the appearance of visible aging. Some of the more commonly used antioxidants include vitamins A and C, caffeine, glutathione, soy isoflavones and silybin, naturally found in milk thistle. MMPi are agents that help suppress the enzymes that break down exhausted elastin, collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAG). Natural enzymes like elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase break down spent elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid inside the dermis, but these enzymes can also begin to attack healthy components if exposed to oxidative stress, UV rays or free radicals. MMPi prevent this overreaction, and can be found in many common skin care ingredients, including
Danae Markland is a licensed esthetician and certified medical laser technician who has specialized in many aspects of the industry, including corrective esthetics, laser treatments and other therapeutic devices. As director of education for PCA SKIN®, Markland oversees the development of all educational material, including tradeshow workshops and CME course curricula, scientific articles and consumer-directed educational pieces. As an educator, Markland shares her passion for skin health with fellow estheticians and medical professionals at presentations all over the world.
Page 34 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com
AHAs in general are suitable for Fitzpatrick types I-VI, and can help treat acne, hyperpigmentation and the signs of visible aging. Again, high percentages of straight AHAs do run the risk of PIH in higher Fitzpatrick types.
resveratrol, vitamin C, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and green tea. Not only do these ingredients function as MMPi agents, they are also powerful antioxidants. Chains of two or more amino acids produce a peptide. Longer chains of amino acids can be referred to as polypeptides, and with many amino acids, the chain becomes a protein. Peptides serve a variety of functions, depending on the size and structure of the amino acids. The chains of amino acids are typically bound to a lipid tail to increase their penetration into the skin. Two commonly used peptides are palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, which helps stimulate collagen fibronectin production by stimulating dermal fibroblasts, and acetyl hexapeptide-8, which helps to reduce repetitive muscle contractions and minimize fine lines and wrinkles. Severe dryness is related to a variety of skin conditions, both on the face and body. There are several treatment options available to hydrate the skin, the most effective of which contains both humectants to attract moisture from the dermis up into the epidermis, and occlusive elements to help trap and retain that moisture. Common humectants include lactic acid, sodium PCA, glycerin, urea, sodium hyaluronate and panthenol. Recommended occlusives include silicones, hydrolyzed silk, shea butter, plant oils, jojoba extracts and niacinamide. An imperative protective measure is broad spectrum UV protection for both the face and body, regardless of Fitzpatrick type or the condition being treated. Clinicians should stress the importance of daily use of a broad spectrum sunscreen year-round, and suggest one that includes several of the following ingredients: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, ecamsule or avobenzone for UVA and UVB protection, and octisalate or octinoxate for additional UVB protection. As clinicians, we should be prepared for our clients to come to us with skin care issues that occur anywhere on their body. While the concerns and treatment methods may differ, the focus should always be on providing the right care for the right client. Take all of their history and concerns into account when providing a sound strategy for overall skin care. This will lead to a satisfied client and the results you are both striving to achieve. n
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #240
by Ben Johnson, M.D.
skin|
the key to longevity and wellness
ward spiral in our health. I recommend digestive enzymes, which include pancreatic enzymes like trypsin and chymotrypsin. Remember to drink less water at mealtime and make better food choices. Always drink a glass of water at bedtime
Our bodies detox and heal while we sleep, so hydration and good sleep habits go a long way.
and when you wake up to assist in the removal of food-based toxins. Our bodies detox and heal while we sleep, so hydration and good sleep habits go a long way. Environmental toxins include fluoride, mercury, pesticides and a host of chemicals that are inhaled or ingested as a result of manufacturing, automobile emissions and microwave-generating devices. The United States uses more pesticides than any other. We put fluoride in our water even though it is proven to have no benefit (but causes a lot of harm) when ingested. We are forced through airport screening systems that are so harmful that Europe banned them and our children are not allowed through them. So why are they fine for us? We have to be diligent. You would be amazed at how many companies add fluoride to their products for no reason. Europe has banned this practice as well. I would be remiss if I did not mention prescription medications. Almost all of them are poisonous to the immune system. Even if we do not experience all of
sun sensitivity, it means it is impairing the body’s ability to repair damage. We must use more holistic alternatives to these products wherever possible. Stress seems unavoidable, but we need to address it in our lives because it is one of the worst offenders in the battle to remain healthy and young. Stress stimulates another release of many of the toxins discussed earlier in this article, which are initially stored in our fat to protect us. Our bodies have a variety of organs that process or eliminate environmental pollutants, but the ones that cannot be addressed are stored in our fat cells to keep them out of circulation. Every time we stress, many of these stores are dumped back into the bloodstream, resulting in acne, illness and other complications. That is why stress is immunosuppressant; it places a toxic burden on our immune systems. Stress can be managed in a variety of ways, including yoga, meditation and herbal remedies. The best way to control it is to stay prescontinues
Page 36 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Makeitdouble/Shutterstock.com
OVER THE LAST FEW DECADES, Americans have been aging faster and becoming sicker than ever before. Environmental toxins, food preservatives and stress are the three primary reasons why our health is declining. Recent studies have shown a disturbing trend in longevity, as life expectancies are becoming shorter. We need to re-evaluate our approach to health and wellness. Our bodies were designed to gain strength from our diet. Ideally, we extract the nutrients from our food and the waste is removed. Instead, most people have diminished digestive juices that result in reduced vitamin/mineral extraction, which is compounded by the depleted state of our planting soil. In addition, the “waste” has become much more toxic to our system, creating disease and promoting aging. Preservatives, for the most part, should be eliminated from our foods as we return to regional farming practices. Since that is unlikely to happen, we all must make a conscious effort to eat freshly prepared food whenever possible. Food has become a source of inflammation instead of nutrition. Over time, our poor diets damage the digestive/ absorption process, creating a down-
the horrible symptoms we hear about on TV commercials for liability claims, most drugs are causing lesser (but still harmful and aging) effects. Sun sensitivity is one way that immune system damage is revealed. If a product causes
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skin
ent throughout the day. This means being aware of your emotional reactions to the events of your life, and consciously talking yourself through those moments. Our brains have a tendency of revisiting our concerns over and over again, even though that typically worsens the problem. Pay attention to that dialogue by being present, and you have a good chance of shutting your brain up.
We all want to grow old gracefully and enjoy a long life. In the face of massive environmental, dietary and cultural obstacles, this goal can only be achieved by learning how to avoid constant exposure to these toxins. Educate yourself. Look for supplements that protect you and try to avoid prescription medication wherever possible. Sweet wormwood extract, scalar medicine and cellular en-
Ben Johnson, M.D. is president and CEO of Osmosis Skin care. Dr. Johnson is an innovator in the field of medical esthetics and a consultant to both estheticians and physicians. He opened eight esthetics clinics in the U.S., is the founder of Cosmedix and is a distinguished public speaker and educator.
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Dynamic
BREATHING
Page 40 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
skin
for a dynamic career TODAY’S DYNAMIC ESTHETICIANS AND spa professionals are continually looking for ways to improve themselves, and subsequently their work environments. Many professionals take advanced classes in their area of expertise, and in doing so expand their skill set. That is all well and good, but what happens if you forget the basics? What happens if you are filled to the brim with knowledge, but can’t apply what you know because you are stressed out? Stress
come grounded and centered. Breathing techniques involve removing attention from turmoil in the mind, focusing on the breath and bringing awareness into the body. A greater sense of peace, relaxation and overall well-being may be experienced through the regular practice of focused breathing. This article covers some common stressful work situations, along with tips on how to use your breath to get through them.
and aggravating situations are a part of life. When you are tense, frightened or angry, you hold your breath. These internalized emotions can be passed along to your clients through touch, and obviously are counterproductive in the healing arts world. As a yoga practitioner and esthetic instructor of 10 years, I have discovered that deliberate, focused breathing is an incredibly effective way to induce a relaxed state of mind and body. When you practice your basic skills with the addition of breath awareness, every aspect of your job and life take a turn for the better. As you learn to use your breath, you become more aware of yourself, and that simple awareness spills over into your work. By using your breath, you become more in control of any stressful situation. Research has shown that your heart rate, blood pressure and even your body temperature can be affected by how you breathe. By supplying your body with a constant and plentiful source of oxygen and exhaling more completely, dangerous toxins are expelled, which benefits your entire body. Practicing relaxation techniques such as focused breathing is a great way to be-
October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
The urge to complain We all have negative opinions about certain aspects of our jobs, but keep yours to yourself. Neither your boss nor your coworkers want to hear you whine about your problems. They want to hear your ideas for solutions. Present any constructive and proactive ideas to your boss in a professional manner, and you just might find yourself in an improved working environment— and possibly a better position for a pay raise! TIP: During difficult moments, take a deep breath (or two or three). Realize that this is only temporary. Don’t overreact to a trivial and transient situation. By overreacting, you are giving the situation more of your energy than it deserves.
The unsatisfied client By nature, skin care therapists and other spa professionals are empathetic and compassionate. We love helping people, and strive to make a favorable impression in the treatment room. When our clients do not love our service and express concerns, we naturally internalize their continues
BY DAVE WAGGONER
photo: Johan Larson/Shutterstock.com
Before jumping to conclusions and internalizing negativity from a client, first take a deep breath. During this breath, remember that you are a skilled and educated service provider, and then begin to draw upon your knowledge base to find a solution to the client’s concern.
LNEONLINE.com • Page 41
Performance reviews Don’t wait until your next performance review to find out how others think you can improve. Ask your supervisor what you need to do in order to improve your performance today. This gesture shows initiative, a willingness to learn and an eagerness to succeed—all traits that are sure to impress any boss. Too scared to ask your supervisor for that all important meeting? TIP: We all tend to become shallow breathers when we are working with someone who is perceived to be superior. Catch your breath, and remind yourself to breathe deep and stay focused on the task at hand. Visualize your intended positive outcome.
Create your own set of goals
comments. That internalization of others’ experiences can be detrimental to our health! My suggestion is to develop a mental checklist when dealing with an unsatisfied client. There are many variables in every treatment. Don’t jump to the conclusion that it was something you did. Remember that 80 percent of the treatment outcome is dependent on the client’s work/play lifestyle choices, and their commitment to a home care regimen. TIP: Before jumping to conclusions and internalizing negativity from a client, take a deep breath. During this breath, remember that you are a skilled and educated service provider, and then begin to draw upon your knowledge base to find a solution to the client’s concern. By using your breath, you also slow down and become more focused on the issue, rather than your emotion. TIP: If you have the ability to respond later, give difficult situations 24 hours to rest. A day can give you more clarity on a situation, and the extra time will allow you to think first rather than act on pure emotion. Plus, when you take this time you can get in a quiet space, meditate and reflect on the issue at hand. You have probably heard the old adage, “What a difference a day makes.” Well, it’s true!
Show up early every day Don’t just show up on time—try to show up early! Always give yourself more than enough cushion time to be punctual, particularly if you live in a city with traffic issues. On the days when you do arrive early, settle in and get your secondary tasks out of the way before it’s time to get down to business. TIP: Rather than rush into your day, take a deep breath after you get to work, set a positive intention for the day and begin your morning with a smile! The more you practice focused, dynamic breathing, the more you will discover its benefits and become more aware of your negative breathing patterns. Commit to completely replacing the short and shallow breathing that has kept you from experiencing relaxation and an anxiety-free life with focused relaxation breathing. n
Dave Waggoner is a licensed massage therapist, esthetician and certified laser technician. He is currently the director of education and public relations at Skin Script Skin Care in Tempe, AZ. Waggoner has a passion for all things educational, and he develops advanced classes for the skin care industry. For more information, visit skinscriptrx.com.
Page 42 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Blend Images/Getty Images
Rather than rush into your day, take a deep breath after you get to work, set a positive intention for the day and begin your morning with a smile!
Bosses love it when staff members come up with their own set of goals. It shows initiative, a desire to get ahead and the ability to think creatively. Even though this is a positive endeavor, it can bring about its own stress and anxiety. My suggestion is to simply breathe through it. Write out your goals and then ask your supervisor to set aside a convenient time to discuss them. Maintain written documentation of all your accomplishments, and use this information during your next review. TIP: Take a deep breath and get into a meditative mode. Take some time to relax when you are breathing, and encourage your mind and body to slow down. Have a notepad handy to write down any thoughts that come to you. Don’t judge; just sit quietly and breathe your way into your new goals.
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by Enna Ruiz
skin|
loud and clear
vocal facial for full lung capacity and a smooth voice. Following this soothing and effective massage, a custom mask is applied to the face while the hands and forearms are gently massaged. “Who knew there was such a thing as a singer’s facial,” says Sheila, a client at Dana Elise Solutions. “I am a singer/vocal coach and with age, the chops—they ain’t what they use to be! I was preparing for a show down south and was in dire need of some skin glow. The ‘mentholly’ steam was fantastic, opened me up [and was] very relaxing. My skin was radiant.“
“I begin with a thorough double cleanse, including a double session of mentholated steam and therapeutic essential oils to open the pores and relax the vocal cords.”
the mind and body to open the vocal cords,” Elise explains. “I begin with a thorough double cleanse, including a double session of mentholated steam and therapeutic essential oils to open the pores and relax the vocal cords.” According to Elise, steaming with essential oils is key to the procedure, because in order to keep the mucous membranes moist and to alleviate any throat inflammation or irritation, it is necessary to increase blood flow throughout the ears, nose and throat. Strategic pressure points on the face also help open the sinuses and relax the throat, allowing
As with all Dana Elise Solutions facials, clients undergo a thorough advanced skin analysis, enzyme-derived exfoliation, extractions, performance serums, precision-based masks and moisturizers and sun protection care. The Vocal Facial’s breakthrough technique is truly becoming a staple for all who use their voices in public performances. Laura from Los Angeles is another client who cannot stop raving about her experience with the Vocal Facial. “I am over the moon since discovering Dana Elise Solutions has a singer’s continues
Page 44 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: bikeriderlondon/Shutterstock.com
IN THE GRACIOUS LAND OF Beverly Hills, where movie stars, rock stars and aspiring entertainers are aplenty, keeping up with the latest beauty treatments is a job in itself, and finding the perfect facial treatment is not easy. Then there are those rare few that not only deliver excellence in the beauty department, but also go that extra miracle mile. That is exactly what Dana Elise of Dana Elise Solutions in Beverly Hills has does with the Vocal Facial. The Vocal Facial not only delivers beautiful skin, but enhances the voice so that entertainers and other public speakers can give amazing vocal performances all the time. “At Dana Elise Solutions, we regularly see VIP players in Hollywood to keep their complexion celebrity worthy,” states Elise. “It’s exciting that they are now booking their Vocal Facial as a ‘must have’ prep before a show or recording.” As Sophocles once said, “To be doing good deeds is man’s most glorious task.” Dana Elise’s glorious Vocal Facial was an idea that came to her as she was chatting with a friend who was struggling in the recording studio. The friend mentioned that her voice was slightly
better after her last facial. As Dana Elise questioned her friend and thought back to the treatment she had offered that day, the combination of therapies necessary to create the Vocal Facial began to form in her mind. Dana Elise’s Vocal Facial technique has mastered the science of strategic pressure point massage and combined it with lymphatic drainage to help a professional voice sound better than ever, especially when recording and performing. “With the Vocal Facial treatment, I am able to focus the client on relaxing
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skin|loud and clear
Steaming with essential oils is key to the procedure, because in order to keep the mucous membranes moist and to alleviate any throat inflammation or irritation, it is necessary to increase blood flow throughout the ears, nose and throat.
“I’ve been finishing up a new CD and encountered numerous difficulties in the studio with a tense, tight voice. Not only did I leave Dana Elise Solutions with incredibly glowy skin, but the feeling that my voice could reach the heavens were I to sing right there on the street! This is a must for singers, actors and speakers alike,” Laura concludes. Dana Elise Solutions is a premier full-service skin care spa dedicated to delivering truly transformative results to clients by providing the most progressive skin care options available today. As a leader in skin care, hair removal and a carefully-chosen selection of other esthetic services, they offer safe and effective solutions for even the most troublesome skin care problems. The unique fusion of health, beauty and science at Dana Elise Solutions is an allinclusive approach that promotes inner health, outer beauty and greater selfconfidence. n
Enna Ruiz is a beauty explorer based in Southern California. She shares her findings on beautybookmagazine. com, and serves as the marketing manager for The Professional Image, Inc., a nationally recognized, full service public relations and marketing firm for the medical, esthetic surgery, beauty and fitness industries. For more information, follow her on Twitter @ennabeatriz and @BeautyBookMag. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #271 on reader service card
Page 46 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Kirill Linnik/Shutterstock.com
facial,” she said. She explains that in the winter, singers have overly tight vocal chords and irritated sinuses caused by the weather and the drying effect of heaters.
FACE PERFECTION
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1-888-292-DERM | www.dermaware.com | Professionals register online Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #256 on reader service card
GOOD VIBRATIONS
SKINNEWS
Le Mieux introduces the portable handheld ultrasonic Facial Scrubber, which allows professionals to cleanse pores and exfoliate skin during facial services. It also can be retailed to clients for ongoing maintenance between treatments. It cycles at 28,000 ultrasonic vibrations per second, performing a micro-massage of the skin, strengthening skin tissue metabolism, improving acne and removing dead skin cells on the epidermis, says the company. It features an easy to hold ergonomic design and a four-level intensity indicator. lemieuxcosmetics.com 888.327.8188
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
EGG TECHNOLOGY Fortitude Health, LLC introduces HealFast SkinCare™, a cutting-edge line formulated with proprietary Ovasome™ technology. The formulations contain specific ingredients found naturally in the egg that provide a unique source of nourishment from vitamins, minerals and proteins that balance and heal the skin, says the company. The three key products in the line include the Egg Cream Cleanser, Eggsential Hydro-Repair Moisturizer and Ovagen Anti-Aging Eye Cream. healfastskincare.com 888.528.3647
SOOTHING HYDRATION The derma renewal gel™ from Dermamed Solutions provides cooling and refreshing moisture in an oil-free gel, formulated with botanical soothers such as arnica, calendula, chamomile, aloe vera and honey to renew the skin following cosmetic skin treatments, skin irritations, burns, pain and inflamed areas. This cooling and refreshing gel increases hydration levels and promotes healthy cellular renewal, says the company. It provides a soothing, protective barrier for sensitive skin, rosacea and cystic acne. dermamedsolutions.com 610.358.4447
REVITALIZE AND REFINE The Forever Young Face Kit from Christina is a comprehensive collection of revitalizing treatments for the face, neck and décolleté. It contains cell rejuvenating proteins and vitamins A, E, C, K and beta-carotene for antioxidant photo-protection. This special set restores a healthy and youthful balance, increasing moisture retention and refining skin tone, says the company. christina-usa.com 888.604.6268
Page 48 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #162
by Lake Louise
EVERY PART OF THE BAMBOO plant has been used for centuries in Eastern cultures for a variety of purposes, such as building materials and making pipes or furniture. Bamboo is so strong and durable that it has been the material of choice in the textile industry as well for
from the nodes of bamboo stems. It is very tall, up to 35 meters high and very strong. Bamboo contains silica deposits inside its stems. After grinding and treatments, a white powder is obtained. Although new anti-aging skin care ingredients are introduced all the
Bamboo stem extract removes corneus cells accumulating on the skin’s surface, helps refine skin texture and brightens skin tone in a gentle and non-abrasive way. fabric and clothing. Its stem powder has recently become very popular as an ingredient in anti-aging skin care products. Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, more commonly known as bamboo powder, comes from a special bamboo growing in the mountainous forests of India. It is a solidified organic silica extracted
time, bamboo powder as an exfoliant is a very sustainable choice due to its “green” factor. Jojoba beads have been the other natural alternative. However, due to its high price tag, jojoba is no longer a cost effective option. Bamboo powder is also an excellent replacement for synthetic exfoliating ingredients such as polyethylene balls. The bamboo plant grows quickly. It is also very environmentally friendly, since it also grows abundantly without any need for pesticides or other agricultural chemicals. Bamboo can grow dramatically each day, and when cut, the plant literally replenishes itself. This highly sustainable crop also is nourishing to the soil and cleansing to the air. Teenagers and adults alike, especially those with normal-to-oily skin, are guilty of using facial scrubs to “scrub away” skin problems. While facial scrubs are effective at removing the dry, dead cells on the skin’s surface—and keeping the pores open—they can rob the skin of its protective moisture layer if overused or made with very abrasive materials. Bamboo stem extract removes corneus cells accumulating on the skin’s surface, helps refine skin texture and brightens skin tone in a
Lake Louise is the chief eco-beauty officer (CEO) of Skin, Mind, Body Essentials, a beauty and wellness company that develops brands formulated with active, natural and organic ingredients. These brands include Lotus Moon, Detox Rx, Plain Jane Beauty and SON. Louise applies the principles of sustainability, a passion for whole body wellness and vast ingredient knowledge in all aspects of her business operations.
Page 50 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photos: Shutterstock.com
spa
the beauty of bamboo
gentle and non-abrasive way that allows for exfoliation without damaging the skin. Many commercial facial scrubs can contain sharp pieces of ground pits or coarse pumice that may remove dead cells but can also scratch and damage the skin. Bamboo-based scrubs exfoliate the skin gently and effectively without causing damage. Bamboo powder gently removes dry, dead skin cells. With regular use, a bamboo-based facial scrub will give the skin a rosy glow and help keep pores free of debris. • Remove dead cells and impurities • Refine skin texture • Clear pores • Increase penetration and efficiency of serums or moisturizers Bamboo facial/body scrub 2 TBS bamboo powder 1 TBS toner, targeted to clients’ skin type 2 drops of olive oil 5 drops of lavender essential oil Tip: You can increase the detoxifying effect of this facial scrub by leaving it on the face for 10-15 minutes or until it is almost dry. For a bamboo body scrub, increase the recipe by 30 percent of the above ingredients. Its high silica content makes it ideal in skin care and hair care applications and is suitable for all skin types, but it works especially well for normal to oily skin, as these types are prone to surface dehydration and irritation. Warning: Do not use facial scrubs on skin suffering from acne, unless the acne is healed. The scrub can irritate the skin and disrupt the healing process. Choose a chemical exfoliant, such as alpha-hydroxy, beta-hydroxy or lactic acid instead. n
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wellness & longevity
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11. Regenerating Cream With EGF ADVANCED REJUVENATING CONCEPTS arcskincare.com
Page 54 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 55
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Page 56 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
wellness & longevity
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October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
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LNEONLINE.com • Page 57
BY ELIZABETH ROSSE, PH.D.
stress
MANAGEMENT
HARMONIOUS HEALING BALANCE
These are all ways of relieving stress, but they are short term solutions that can cause joint pain, hair loss and problems with your neighbors. In other words, they don’t seem to lean toward a healthy way of dealing with the issue. Take a minute and think about your daily routines and regimens, including at work. Are you sitting in your office taking deep, panicked breaths at lunchtime instead of taking bites of your sandwich? Are you watching television at all hours instead of watching the inside of your eyelids? Are you heading straight to the refrigerator after work instead of heading out for your daily walk? Think about it. Are you dealing with your stress in healthy ways? And if so, are they working to alleviate your tension? Most will agree that a good way to help relieve stress is to take a long, hot bath. Just thinking about it is soothing. With those warm thoughts in mind, let me introduce you to a way of bathing that takes the experience to a whole new level. Imagine bathing not only your body, but also your senses, with color, light, sound, images and music therapy—putting your mind at ease and in perfect harmony with your body. Harmonial therapy is an innovative new treatment that stimulates the senses in a way that can effectively relieve stress and anxiety. The harmonial therapy program uses a customized combination of color, sound and aromatherapy synergistically to re-balance a person’s body and cerebral function. Its unique approach is designed to gauge the individual’s receptivity to various shades and colors of light using biofeedback. Then, additional personal data is collected and analyzed through their diagnostic computer. This, in turn, creates a customized program designed specifically for each individual to produce the ultimate in deep relaxation. I personally developed this program that caters to your own individual needs to relieve
Page 58 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photos: Kzenon/Shutterstock.com
LET’S TOUCH ON A SUBJECT THAT MOST of us are way too familiar with ... STRESS. I don’t think there’s a week that goes by in which we all don’t experience this tension that affects our bodies and our lives. Yes, there are many methods out there that are geared to relieve stress and tension. Consider, for instance, if you do any of the following: • Take stress balls and squeeze them until your hands turn blue. • Twist your hair into knots. • Go to the end of the driveway and scream at the top of your lungs.
spa stress. My motivation was to create a form of therapy that would provide a more immediate and holistic impact on my patients. That led me to invent harmonial therapy, an individualized program that uses color, sound and aroma synergistically. COLOR THERAPY (Chromatherapy): Color is reflected light that hits our retinas through vibrating wavelengths, which is then interpreted by our brains—so color is both a physical sensation and a vibration. Chromatherapy is based on the principle of using colors to generate electrical impulses, or “fields of energy,” said to activate biochemical and hormonal processes that either sedate or stimulate us. SOUND THERAPY: Music therapy has been applied for thousands of years as a complement to the natural healing process to improve mood and mindset, or even to restore energy. Music changes the brain activity, which can counteract stress, slow your heart rate and breathing, and help reverse the damaging effects of chronic stress. AROMATHERAPY: Aromatherapy is the treatment or prevention of disease by use of essential oils and other aromatic compounds for the purpose of altering a person’s mind, mood, cognitive function or health. Other uses include pain and anxiety reduction, enhancement of energy and short-term memory, stress management, hair loss prevention and reduction of eczema-induced itching. So, how do you recognize when stress has become a major issue in your daily routines or life in general? Let’s look at a few symptoms and causes. SYMPTOMS: • Sleepless nights • Irritability or anger • Fatigue • Lack of interest
October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
• Low motivation or energy • Headaches • Depression • High blood pressure • Upset stomach or indigestion CAUSES: • Money concerns • Issues at work • Health problems If you can relate to any of these symptoms and causes, you are one of the many Americans who are feeling the weight of being stressed. Now, most of us tend to think of stressful events as unpleasant ones, like losing a job or having difficulties at school or home. But even positive changes in one’s life can cause stress, such as a new baby, planning a wedding or buying a new house. Let’s be honest. It is impossible to live without some stress, and we wouldn’t want to, because stress adds some spice and excitement to life. But if stress gets out of control, it may harm your health, your relationships and enjoyment of life. There is a balance between the body and the psyche. Everything that is experienced negatively, whether it is physical or psychological, can lead to stress and depression. The bottom line is that too much stress hurts. It hurts ourselves as well as others. No one can “stress” enough the profound impact it can have on you and your life. Here are a few of the effects that stress can have on you. • Stress can cause chronic fatigue, digestive upsets, headaches and back pain. • Stress can affect the blood cells that help you fight off infection, so you are more likely to catch colds and other diseases. continues
LNEONLINE.com • Page 59
spa|stress management • Constant stress can raise blood pressure and increase the risk for stroke. • Stress can increase the danger of heart attacks, particularly if you are often angry and mistrustful. • Stress can make an asthma attack more severe. • Stress triggers behaviors that contribute to death and disability, such as smoking, alcoholism, drug abuse and overeating. • Stress can lead to diminished sexual desire. • Stress makes it harder to take other steps to improve health, such as giving up smoking or making positive dietary changes. We all know that the occurrence of stress in our lives is inevitable. It is how we manage it that can help save our lives. Spas of the future have an opportunity to offer a personalized therapeutic experience that helps restore balance to the mind, body and spirit. n
photo courtesy of Harmonial Therapy System
Elizabeth Rosse, Ph.D. is the founder of the Harmonial Therapy System. She has created a bio-feedback system that integrates applications of light and sound. This cutting-edge new technology is intended to heal mental and physical issues related to high stress.
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Page 60 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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BEYOND
beauty BY LOUIS SILBERMAN
EVERYONE KNOWS THAT THE BEST WAY TO PREVENT visible signs of aging is to take care of our skin from head to toe, but even those of us in the skin care industry are guilty of not always giving our hands and feet the attention they deserve. You have probably heard the saying, “Your hands show your true age.” Well, that’s certainly not what our clients want to hear after spending a good amount of time and money on treatments for their faces and necks! Nonetheless, it does prove a point. In order to get the best results, esthetic anti-aging must be a whole-body process. We use our hands and feet in nearly everything we do, so obviously they are subjected to routine wear and tear. Even though the soles of our feet contain some of the body’s thickest skin, that skin is further toughened by walking, running and
exercising, not to mention cramming our feet into uncomfortable shoes for the sake of style at times! Another thing that many people don’t know is that as we age, our shoe size can change. That is why the National Institute on Aging advises us to get our feet measured from time to time to make sure we are still buying the right shoe size to keep our feet healthy. As for hands, while the skin on our palms is fairly thick, the skin covering the tops of the hands is very thin and delicate. Plus, similar to facial skin, the tops of our hands are often exposed to the sun (and sun damage), and they lose volume and elasticity as we age. Additionally, all that we do to keep our hands clean and free from bacteria—such as frequent hand washing and applying alcohol-based sanitizing gels—can leave hands dry, cracked and susceptible to further damage.
Page 62 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Sukiyaki/Shutterstock.com
anti-aging treatments for the whole body
spa A new take on treatments Luckily, expanding your treatment options to include special procedures to treat the specific needs of hands and feet does not mean that you will have to buy a lot of new equipment and/or products. Even though the skin on our hands and feet is unique, we can apply many of the same treatments we apply to the face in order to achieve similar anti-aging results. By rethinking and reimaging many of your current treatments, you can increase your offerings without any significant out-of-pocket costs.
Visible veins are telltale signs of aging in both the hands and feet. In addition to removing unwanted pigment and hair, cosmetic lasers can eliminate spider veins. Facials As an upsell to the traditional facial, you can offer more than the standard hand and foot massage that takes place before the treatment or during the time that the facial exfoliation or moisture mask “sets.” Offer to treat your clients’ hands and feet with products that are similar to the ones used in their facial, or coat their hands and feet with a warm paraffin wax treatment. Again, remind them that while it is important to combat the signs of aging on your face and neck, hands and feet need special care, too. You can also offer an add-on treatment that includes one of the procedures discussed in this article.
Chemical peels Certain chemical peels are great for exfoliating and moisturizing your clients’ hands and feet. The best peels to use are those containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). AHA peels use mild organic acids to promote increased epidermal sloughing to tackle dry skin, corns, calluses and unwanted pigmentation. The most common types of AHAs are glycolic, lactic, tartaric and malic acids (there are also hybrid AHAs.). Peels containing lactic acid are often the most beneficial for hands and feet, because this type of acid (derived from milk) is very effective for removing rough skin and calluses.
Laser/IPL treatments Laser and intense pulse light treatments can work wonders for skin all over the body. If you currently use this technology to treat clients, I’m sure you have seen the dramatic improvements light-based devices can make. IPL photofacials and fractional laser procedures target the signs of aging in the hands, similar to the way they target them in the face. The devices emit light energy that targets unwanted pigment (age spots) and stimulates collagen production, which helps the skin cells regenerate and “plump up” the volume to reduce October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. These light-based treatments also improve skin tone and texture, which helps to restore a more youthful look. For most clients, four to six treatments, spaced six weeks apart, are needed for best results. It is also important to educate your clients about postcare procedures to protect their skin following treatment.
Skin tightening While most often used on the neck, jaw line and around the eyes, radiofrequency skin tightening can treat loose and sagging skin on the hands. This treatment works by using radiofrequency energy to send heat into skin’s dermal layer while leaving the superficial layer unaffected. The controlled heat causes the skin’s tissue to retract, giving a more taut appearance. This retraction also stimulates collagen production, which is something that helps to plump the skin.
Vein reduction Visible veins are telltale signs of aging in both the hands and feet. In addition to removing unwanted pigment and hair, cosmetic lasers can eliminate spider veins. During this treatment, a laser beam delivers light pulses that target the vein. The intense heat from the light closes the vein—which stops it from functioning. Eventually, the useless vein is naturally absorbed by the body. If you are not trained to perform chemical peel, cosmetic laser or radiofrequency treatments, you may want to look into educational opportunities that allow you to expand your skill set and earning potential. The industry-accepted standard in medical esthetic education is two weeks of combined classroom instruction and clinical hands-on training at an accredited facility. Chemical peel courses are typically a one-day advanced course. In most states, anyone can become a cosmetic laser treatment provider regardless of professional background. However, depending on where you work, there may be regulations that specify a mandated number of hours of education. Even if laser education is not required in your state, education and training are vital to becoming a qualified treatment provider.
Beyond beauty Some clients may have skin concerns that go beyond beauty. These skin issues can affect their health and well-being. For example, toenail fungus (also called onychomycosis) is a common affliction. Nearly one out of every 10 adults will suffer with toenail fungus at some point. The effects of toenail fungus can cause nails to become yellowed, cracked and brittle. With some infections, the nail may fall off. There are a number of treatments for toe fungus, but one of the most effective is laser fungus removal. By zapping the toenail with laser light, a treatment provider is able to use heat to sterilize the area, treat the fungus and prevent the infection from spreading. This makes feet look and feel great! continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 63
spa|beyond beauty
Lotions with different concentrations of glycolic, lactic, tartaric and malic acids can help to exfoliate and moisturize skin while reducing the appearance of unwanted pigmentation and fine lines caused by sun damage. Home and preventive care In your retail area, consider adding thick hydrating creams and specialty lotions that work well for hands and feet. Similar to the types of chemical peels discussed earlier, lotions and creams with AHAs are great for home care and maintenance. Lotions with different concentrations of glycolic, lactic, tartaric and malic acids can help to exfoliate and moisturize skin while reducing the appearance of unwanted pigmentation and fine lines caused by sun damage. If your client shies away from an an acid-infused treatment, you can recommend moisturizers that contain vitamin C. Vitamin C is vital to collagen production, and it’s an antioxidant that can reduce the damage caused by free radicals. Copper peptides are another group of powerhouse ingredients that stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. Sun protection is key to preventing further skin damage. Some clients may complain about the feel or smell of sun-
screen. Show them some options that are lightly scented and have a smooth, non-greasy feel. While describing the process of applying sunscreen or other creams and lotions, educate your clients on how to get the best results when using these products. Often, clients will need to commit to a daily regimen of care and regular esthetic treatments. n Louis Silberman is president and founder of National Laser Institute, the largest cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center in North America. An expert in medical esthetics, Silberman is a medical spa owner and nationally recognized author, marketing speaker and business consultant. Contact Silberman at 800.982.6817 or louis@nlionline.com.
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Page 64 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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BENEFITS OF
WHOLE
photo: Flydragon/Shutterstock.com
OILS
Page 66 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
spa
IN AROMATHERAPY OR OTHER holistic therapies, vegetable oils used for massage are referred to as “carrier oils.” The term “carrier” in some ways belittles the practical value and dynamics that lie behind the ubiquitous vegetable oils. Nutritionists have long known the true value of oils and fats and their necessity in our diet. Different vegetable oils have special properties of their own, and aromatherapy has certainly pioneered their use and brought them to prominence
They are largely composed of fatty acids, which in turn are composed of two parts, one fatty and the other acid. Linked together, they are fatty acids. Oils and fats differ from one another, mainly in terms of the amount and variety of fatty acids they contain. Some fatty acids are “essential,” meaning that the body cannot synthesize them, but we have to ingest them in order to be healthy. Linoleic acid and linolenic acid are the two essential fatty acids. The quality or the use of the
Fats or oils are the major components of cell walls and intracellular membranes, so it is not surprising that these oils are important in skin care. in a number of ways. Oils and fats do not have the glamour of essential oils. It is true that they lack the aroma and excitement of essential oils, but they are always there. Indeed, the term “fat,” like carrier, is not very exciting. In reality, oils and fats have astounding benefits and fundamental applications for anyone who is interested in holistic body work. They can actually form the foundation or even the actives in many cosmetic formulas and expensive treatments. Vegetable oils are an intrinsic part of the repertoire of an aromatherapist in most parts of the world. In particular, the UK has promoted the use of vegetable oils as carriers for essential oils used in massage. Essential oils and vegetable oils are, of course, very compatible. All vegetable oils are defined as lipids. They are organic compounds containing carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.
oil will very often depend upon the fatty acid profile or the fatty acids it contains. The big question is whether or not the vegetable oil itself contributes anything to a treatment. Aromatherapists are perhaps today’s leading proponents of topical application of oils and fats to the skin. However they have been making a comeback in the skin care industry. One of the newer trends is oil based cleansers, and the therapeutic application of oils to the skin as part of a daily regime, particularly for mature skin. Fats or oils are the major components of cell walls and intracellular membranes, so it is not surprising that these oils are important in skin care. Vegetable oils provide, at the very least, emollient properties to the skin. They are among the oldest health and cosmetic materials known to mankind. They are regularly used and chosen because of their low
incidence of irritation, sensitization and comedogenicity. Moisturizing and softening the skin are basic uses for oils. As we age, our own natural moisture factors do decrease, and so these vegetable oils are a natural replacement. Some oils are absorbed more quickly than others, and some are thicker than others based on their chemical structure. Coconut, for example, can feel greasy due to its saturated fat content. Unless it is fractionated oil, medium touch oils are usually monounsaturated oils such as avocado, almond, olive and sesame. Sunflower and walnut are polyunsaturated oils, and are much thinner and lighter. Logic might tell us that thinner oils could penetrate more easily. However each oil has a certain viscosity, a more accurate term than thickness or thinness. What might be classified as a thick oil can behave very differently when placed on warm skin. When using the term carriers in reference to describing vegetable oils, we do not just mean that they hold or mix with essential oils in bottles, but rather that they carry essential oils into the skin. Essential oils are volatile; their nature is to go upward into the atmosphere— not downward into the skin. In general terms, we need to understand that when essential oils are blended with vegetable oils, they travel down into the skin more efficiently. When the skin is dry, oil will penetrate to the lowest levels of the skin. It becomes a moisturizer not only by acting as a barrier to water loss, but also by being bioavailable, which contributes to the natural moisturizing factors of the skin, even as a breakdown product of biosynthesis, and it is supportive of skin activity. continues
BY TRISH GREEN October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 67
spa|benefits of whole oils
Each oil is unique in itself, having its own origins and benefits. They can be used alone or in combinations, and are as much a part of nature’s gift as essential oils.
The oils Each oil is unique in itself, having its own origins and benefits. They can be used alone or in combinations, and are as much a part of nature’s gift as essential oils. As long as you use the best grade oils for the intended purpose, they are safe and reliable. They have been used for thousands of years in body work and massages. Always choose the best quality for the purpose in mind. This means that you should understand what you are buying, especially as a therapist. If one oil is more expensive than another of the same name by more than a few pennies, there is usually a difference in quality. Do not assume that all refined oils are inferior—they are not. Also do not assume that they have all the same qualities as their cold pressed counterparts—they do not. Above all, make sure your oil is fresh. Most oils have no smell. Rancid oil not only smells—it is a free radical bomb. Free radicals contribute to premature aging and tissue degeneration. They promote glycation and reduce the skin’s elasticity.
Sweet almond oil This oil is useful throughout the year, but particularly for dry skin during seasonal changes. Almond oil is highly nutritious, being a good source of trace minerals and rich in linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated fatty acid. It is an excellent emollient for
chapped hands, and is used extensively in skin care preparations. It is a popular ingredient in cosmetics for moisturizers, night creams and body milks, as well as a skin softening massage oil. It is almost an industry standard in aromatherapy for massage and body work. It gives great slippage, as it does not absorb too quickly. The oil should be pale yellow in color with a slight odor. If the oil is clear, it has been refined.
Argan oil Argan oil has been known for centuries for its cosmetic and pharmaceutical virtues. As a free radical scavenger, it has more vitamin E than most and contains carotenes and phytosterols. It prevents the drying and slows the physiological aging of the skin by restoring its hydrolipid film. Argan oil is also recommended to fortify fragile nails. Try adding this oil to your skin care protocols, and keep some onhand at the manicure table.
Avocado oil This oil is extracted from the flesh of the fruit, which contains up to 30 percent pure oil. Avocado oil is highly moisturizing and skin softening; it promotes cellular regeneration, and its effect on dry and fragile skins is well documented. Repeated use and massage of this oil on the skin has shown an increase in hydration to the upper layers of the skin, as well as an apparent boost in elasticity. I highly recommend it for alipidic, mature skin and the treatment of prematurely aging skin. I personally use it daily as a part of my skin care regime. The viscosity is thicker than most, and so it needs to be combined with other oils for use in massage or simple daily application to continues
Page 68 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Flydragon/Shutterstock.com
Following menopause, fatty acids are found to decrease in older skin. As these constitute natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), it would be appropriate to apply them at the site where they are needed, on the skin and/or by digestion. As the skin condition deteriorates with age or stress, it may become more sensitive, with the potential for irritation and disturbance in oil production. Dry skin and topical eczema typically always show up poor lipid barriers and low ceramide content in the epidermis. The skin becomes drier and less elastic as we age, and the alteration in structure is in part due to the important lipidic film on the surface of the skin. The composition of the film includes essential fatty acids, phospholipids and ceramides. Thus, it follows that blends of oils topically applied and containing the right compounds can only benefit the skin as it ages. The epidermis is capable of metabolizing the elements necessary to recover its corrective barrier function. It should be perfectly possible to improve the skin’s health and appearance by topical applications of suitably balanced oil blends or complexes. What cannot be dismissed is the value of vegetable oils in the treatment of difficult skin conditions. With or without essential oils, combinations of topically applied vegetable oils have been shown to be of great value in the treatment of psoriasis and eczema. This particularly applies to oils rich in gamma linoleic acid.
In 1993, The Dermatological Archive reported the following: Topical applications of individual lipids or incomplete mixtures of lipids interfere with barrier recovery, while complete mixtures of cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides allow for normal barrier repair. The message is clear: Get blending with whole oils!
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spa|benefits of whole oils
reinforce the skin’s lipid barrier. It is unique in that it contains more vitamin D than most eggs and feels wonderful on the skin, especially in the cold depths of winter.
being protective for dry skin conditions, but it can be used on all skin types. However it should be noted that it is ideal for regulating sebum, and is useful for oily scalp conditions.
Borage oil
Macadamia oil
Borage is known for being rich in GLA. It is one of the richest sources known. Borage oil is sometimes used to boost the GLA content of other oils such as evening primrose oil. It is ideal for dry and sensitive skins. It is found in formulations for fighting wrinkle formation, dehydration and loss of elasticity in aging skin because of its regenerative and firming properties.
Macadamia oil deserves a mention simply because it feels wonderful on the skin. It is high in palmitoleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid not commonly found in other oils. Palmitoleic acid is also found in sebum; thus macadamia oil has often been recommended for mature skins that start to dry out and become alipidic. It is very nourishing, and I recommend every skin care specialist utilize it.
Calendula oil Native to the Mediterranean, this oil is generally used as an infused oil, and it is one of my favorites. It has highly anti-inflammatory and soothing properties that work well in the treatment of rashes and dry, chapped skin. It also makes an excellent base for treating eczema. Calendula is said to be excellent for venous complaints, especially when blended with essential oils of lemon and cypress. When applied consistently, there is a decrease in the symptoms of varicose veins and venous congestion. My experience is that it provides immediate relief from the constant ache that varicose veins can create, especially at night.
Rosehip seed oil
Hazelnut oil
Cold pressed soybean oil is the second best source of vitamin E after wheat germ oil. Soybean oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. It is good for massage and suitable for all skin types, as it has a regenerative effect on the cutaneous tissue due to the presence of the fatty acids. It therefore enhances local circulation in the treated area to bring about revitalization of the dermis. It is a valued emollient for cosmetic use, containing intrinsic phytoestrogens.
Hazelnut oil is quite similar to almond oil in composition and stability, and has similar properties. However its diffusion and penetration properties seem to be far greater. Therefore this oil is recommended as a carrier oil because of its ability to penetrate the epidermis without leaving the skin greasy. Hazelnut has good regenerative properties on the skin. Due to its diffusive characteristics, it prevents dehydration of the skin and is particularly recommended for sensitive skin and baby skin, leaving it smooth and soft. When combined with sesame and calendula oil, it makes an excellent after sun oil.
Hypericum (St John’s wort) Hypericin is the principal active ingredient, and is a psychotropic activator of neuronal metabolism. This would account for its antidepressant and mood lifting properties. The oil is used topically for mild burns, bruises, hemorrhoids, varicose veins, wounds, sores and ulcers. It has also been indicated for nerve pain such as neuralgia, sciatica and even rheumatic pain for some. When using this oil for massage, warm it (to no more than 37 degrees) to ease joint stiffness, inflammation and general aches and pains. Make sure to exercise caution, as this oil can increase photosensitivity.
Jojoba oil Jojoba oil is highly compatibile with the skin. Chemically, it is actually a liquid wax versus an oil. It contains hardly any triglycerides but has a combination of esters and fatty alcohols. Naturally moisturizing and healing, its traditional use is
Extensive clinical work in South America indicates that rosehip seed oil is extremely beneficial in tissue regeneration for conditions such as burns, facial wrinkles and the treatment of scars. I have used this oil successfully to counter the effects of the sun, and also in the treatment of scars to reduce redness, hyperpigmentation and to help minimize keloid tissue formation. It is believed that these properties are due to the very high levels of both linoleic and alpha-linolenic fatty acids.
Soybean oil
Wheat germ oil Wheat germ oil is an extremely valuable source of vitamin E and fatty acids. Due to its vitamin E content, it is a natural antioxidant. It promotes the formation of skin cells, improves blood circulation and helps relieve symptoms of dermatitis. However for massage and facial treatments, make sure it is well blended with other vegetable oils, using maybe one or two milliliters, as it does have a strong, pungent odor. n
Trish Green, a CIDESCO Diplomat, has been a teacher for 30 years. She is a doctor of homeopathy, an instructor of aromatherapy and a registered bach flower practitioner. Green is owner of the Balnea Institute in Ontario, an educational facility dedicated to holistic esthetics and complementary therapies.
Page 70 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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by Christina Oldham
rock | spa bathing sweating out the toxins
Silica rock has been shown to emit massive amounts of negative ions and far infrared rays, both elements that enhance the removal of toxins and burn calories. baths. Traditional Ganbanyoku rock bathing describes a service with hot stone beds made from black silica rock from Hokkaido, Japan. Silica rock has been shown to emit massive amounts of negative ions and far infrared rays, both elements that enhance the removal of toxins and burn calories while also helping to mitigate pain associated with arthritis, menstruation or sports injury. It also boosts the immune system and lowers blood pressure. For many (myself included), this is a new experience. Nobody knows what to expect until the attendant explains the process.
Christina Oldham was born in Berlin, Germany. Due to her cultural background, she is steeped in the tradition of “spa
cures” and “taking the waters.” Since moving to the United States at the age of 17, Oldham has worked in publishing. Writing and visiting spas is the perfect marriage of two of her passions. Oldham is currently a vice president at Pearson Education, the world’s largest learning company.
Iyashi Bedrock Spa offers massages, reflexology treatments and hot yoga classes. Hot rock bathing is offered in treatment beds or suites. Traditional Suite Accomodates up to 17 clients $47.50 for 60 minutes $59.50 for 90 minutes Deluxe Suite Accomodates four clients for a more private spa party $59.50 for 60 minutes $74 for 90 minutes
Page 72 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photos courtesy of Iyashi Bedrock Spa
IYASHI BEDROCK SPA IN TOR onto, Canada is one of the first places in North America to offer hot rock “bathing.“ The term may sound like an oxymoron, as there is no water. This type of treatment started in Japan in 2001, and now there are over 4,000 spas featuring similar therapies in a country obsessed with water and
Change into a quilted cotton outfit consisting of pants, a jacket and disposable underwear beneath, then enter the quiet sauna-like space to lie down on a “bed” of polished black silica rock slabs, inlaid in slick granite. A towel will be the only cushion available. It is surprisingly comfortable. While the rock is heated from underneath, it feels toasty, as if I am slipping into a warm bathtub when I lie down. There is no sense of shock or discomfort. The treatment consists of three 20 minute hot turns and five minute cooldowns in a simple room in between. During my first 20 minute session, I’m still somewhat alert and excruciatingly aware of the droplets of sweat trickling from my forehead and temples down my neck. Relaxation comes slowly, but it does come. By my final turn, I’m lying on my side, and would happily take a nap right then and there. What really surprises me is that after I have showered, I am not sleepy or sluggish, but rather bursting with energy and happiness. In fact, I have a definite spring in my step, and I step back outside into the noise, ready for a 20 minute walk to the authentic sushi restaurant recommended by the receptionist. Who would have thought that lying on a rock could be this invigorating? n
EFT TAPPING QUICK AND SIMPLE STRESS RELIEF FOR CLIENTS AND THERAPISTS
BY NICK ORTNER WITH OUR MODERN WORLD GETting faster and busier by the second, everybody needs and deserves to have effective and reliable ways to manage their stress. You may not realize it, but that is twice as true for you. As a professional in the spa industry, you tend to weary clients every day. Although you certainly love your profession, you very often have to prioritize your own peace of mind after theirs. After awhile, this can leave you exhausted, both mentally and physically.
to improve their lives, provide a better standard of service to their clients and offer a new mode of therapy.
The history and science behind EFT tapping EFT is at once ancient and modern. Much like acupuncture and acupressure, which draw on the ancient field of Traditional Chinese Medicine, EFT tapping stimulates points along your body’s meridian lines, the channels through which your chi (life force) is said to flow. You do this by simply
photo: Artpose Adam Borkowski/Shutterstock.com
There have been major studies that back up the claims of satisfied tappers the world over who have used EFT to overcome everything from back pain to weight troubles. What if there was a fast and simple technique you could use to reduce your own stress levels, and it was something you could add to your list of services as well? Allow me to introduce you to Emo tional Freedom Technique (EFT) tapping. It is an easy method of personal care that you can learn in a matter of minutes, and it can absolutely change your life. It thoroughly changed mine, and has helped thousands of people around the world to overcome their daily worries, tackle personal and family issues, and significantly ease the effects of all types of pain and illness. This technique can be used by all professionals in the industry—everybody from massage therapists to estheticians— October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
tapping on nine meridian points on your head and torso in a particular sequence. However, it is the added benefits and influence of modern psychotherapy that really make this technique so effective. As you are tapping, you verbally address whatever is bothering you until you transition into a series of affirmations that “shift” you from your current emotional or physical state to one of relief and relaxation. You essentially dissolve your stress one tap at a time. It certainly looks a bit odd when you’re doing it for the first time, but it is tre mendously powerful. In fact, there have been major studies that back up the claims of satisfied tap-
pers the world over who have used EFT to overcome everything from back pain to weight troubles. For example, a team at the prestigious Harvard Medical School found that by manipulating the body’s meridian points with needles or slight pressure— as we do in EFT tapping—the body’s levels of the stress hormone cortisol can be significantly reduced. When elevated, cortisol can give rise to high blood pressure, obesity and even strokes. Another study done by Dawson Church, Ph.D. resulted in even more impressive results. It addressed the issue of veterans dealing with post-traumatic stress disorder. In the study, one group of vets received EFT coaching and traditional talk therapy while another just received talk therapy. The results revealed that only four percent of those who received talk therapy alone experienced any reduction of their symptoms, whereas 90 percent of those who tried continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 73
spa|eft tapping
Furthermore, with an EFT certification, you can become a tapping specialist who helps clients work through their problems with this focused technique. It’s a wonderful complement to other modalities and spa services. Your clients will absolutely love you for offering it and teaching them a simple solution to handle their stress in between spa visits.
A simple tapping script to get started
EFT tapping point chart courtesy of Nick Ortner
EFT stopped experiencing any symptoms of the disorder!
How you can use EFT tapping This information is remarkably interesting, but what does it all mean for you? There is a time-honored tradition of trading services among care and comfort specialists, as well as beauticians of all types. Massage therapists trade massages, yoga teachers take classes led by their colleagues and pedicurists may even swap sessions with life coaches! But what happens when you don’t have that opportunity? What happens when your personal levels of stress are excessively elevated, and your calendar is completely packed with appointments for eager clients? Too many of us put our self-care on the back burner. In your case, as a spa professional, doing so can directly compromise your ability to truly guide your clients to that place of serenity and comfort that they are seeking through you. Furthermore, it’s very easy for you to take on their stress and worries to some degree, further burdening yourself. Tapping gives you a quick and easy way to work through the stress you encounter on a regular basis, ensuring that you are always in optimal emotional health. It can make such a difference in your ability to tend to your clients.
How about you try a bit of tapping right now to see how calming it can be? To begin, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with the meridian points used in the technique. These include the eyebrow (EB), side of the eye (SE), under eye (UE), under nose (UN), chin (CH), collarbone (CB), underarm (UA) and top of the head (TH). Begin by thinking about what you want to address. If it’s basic stress, rate how stressed out you are on a scale from one to 10, and then compose a set-up phrase that encapsulates what you’re feeling stressed about. For example: • “Even though I’m so stressed out about work, I deeply love and accept myself.” Once you have your phrase in mind, take four fingers and begin tapping on the fleshy outer edge of your other hand. As you do this, repeat your set-up phrase a few times aloud. Now you’re ready to begin. Proceed by tapping through the points as you repeat the phrases below. EB: “I’m so stressed out.” SE: “I have too much to do.” UE: “I can’t handle all of this stress.” UN: “I don’t know how to cope with it all.” CH: “It’s making my work so difficult.” CB: “I just want it to ease up.” UA: “I just want to breathe easy.” TH: “This is too much for me to deal with.” Repeat this two or three times, then stop and take a deep breath. Do you feel any better? Where does your stress rank now on that scale from one to 10? Perform further rounds of tapping as needed, adding more phrases that de-
scribe how you are feeling. You’ll often find that sudden realizations or underlying feelings come to the surface as you tap. Use them to form new phrases, and keep tapping until your stress levels are significantly reduced. Then, begin tapping on the various median points again as you say the following phrases aloud: EB: “I can feel the stress dissolving.” SE: “It’s not so bad after all.” UE: “I can get through this.” UN: “I can handle what’s coming my way.” CH: “It’s not too much at all.” CB: “I’m already feeling lighter.” UA: “I’m relieved!” TH: “I feel so much better.” As before, repeat this routine until the feelings sink in, take hold and you truly feel refreshed! With time, you’ll become better at targeting the emotions and experiences that can run your day off the tracks, and stress won’t be as much of an issue as it was before. You can also use this approach for just about anything that’s bothering you. Should you pursue the certification route, you will be fully equipped to guide your clients through this wondrous technique at your business. Even if you don’t, you now have a stress relief tool that you can use for 10 minutes before you begin work each morning. EFT tapping will absolutely improve your life, and you deserve it. After all, everybody needs a little pampering, even (and especially) you! n
Nicolas Ortner is the CEO of The Tapping Solution, LLC, a company with a mission to make simple, effective and natural healing a mainstream trend through Emotional Freedom Techniques (EFT), or “tapping.” Ortner is the best-selling author of The Tapping Solution: A Revolutionary System for Stress-Free Living.
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ALTERNATIVE TO LASERS
SPANEWS
Phytomer introduces the latest addition to the Vie Collection, the new L-Therapy Youth Beauty Treatment and Laser Light Concentrate Dark Spot Correction. It is designed as an alternative to laser treatments to aid in the battle against dark spots and uneven skin tone. With an advanced and targeted delivery system, the unique formula of citric acid, vitamin C and arbutin is delivered to melanocytes to visibly reduce dark spots and prevent the appearance of new ones, says the company. phytomerusa.com 800.227.8051
CLEAR CUT ANALYSIS Designed by the founders of BeautyPro, HydraTest® is a handy sized, lightweight device that offers an instant, real time analysis of the skin with accuracy and precision, says the company. HydraTest’s easy-to-use guide allows you to target your clients’ skin concerns and determine the correct home care regime for them. Most importantly, it enables you to monitor the progress of each client’s skin improvements with real time readouts. The device is easy to use, and microchip technology delivers precise information in seconds. beautypro.com/hydratest 855.642.0590
SPOTLESS FINISH Address your clients’ most common post-hair removal concerns and give them incredibly soft, glowing skin with the new GiGi® gg Cream, a post-waxing perfecting cream. It covers redness and replenishes moisture immediately following hair removal, leaving skin deeply nourished, soft and glowing, says the company. Formulated with antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and caffeine for amazing anti-aging benefits, this lightweight, oil-free and fragrance-free cream is perfect for all skin types. gigispa.com 800.621.9585
CITRUS SCENT Keep your spa bathroom smelling nice with Nature’s Call from Poo~Pourri, an organic blend of orange and lemon that takes unpleasant odors away! poopourri.com 72.818.8200
BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS
Page 76 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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business
get up, dress up and show up a superstar!
by Jill Kohler
BEAUTY AND SPA PROFESSIONals should be masters in the realms of wellness, esthetic longevity, beauty and anti-aging. Clients need to be able to trust their estheticians and therapists if they are going to count on them for their professional advice and expertise. Unfortunately, there is often a disconnect when spa professionals do not take advantage of the health and wellness oriented services they provide or follow the valuable advice they offer. This is a problem that can result in lost sales and negative client reviews if it is not corrected. There are many areas that spa managers and staff can focus on that will nurture a culture of wellness and boost the image of a business. This message translates to happier guests, thereby increasing revenue for everyone involved.
1. Practice what you preach Being educated in the latest trends and treatment modalities is the key to success. Without this education, you can come across as an amateur in your own industry. Being unable to answer pointed client questions or make the best treatment recommendations is a surefire way to undermine client confidence and sabotage the likelihood of repeat visits. Polishing your own image is a big selling point as well. Your makeup should be light and natural looking, your uniform pressed, your hair neat and professionally pulled back, your fingernails short and clean. Also, you should keep up with personal grooming habits like waxing. Appropriate shoes should be worn. Every spa professional should be on top of these aspects of their appearance. Tips for selling with personal image • The key to upselling a waxing service is having a great brow wax yourself.
• The best way to recommend expert makeup strategies is to effectively showcase one’s own stellar makeup application. • The most effective way to sell skin care regimens to guests is to know your own product lines and ingredients. It is important to be able to provide authentic recommendations for products that truly work. • Develop a non-smoking workplace, both inside and outside the facility. As a service provider, you are always in close proximity to guests, and nothing is a bigger turnoff than cigarette smoke wafting through one’s clothing. Benefits: A boost in service revenue, retail revenue, referrals and guest retention. Action items: Start with a staff meeting. Help the team focus, and ask them to identify three areas of service improvement. Show support for their ideas.
2. VIP customer service We all know and understand what “customer service” means. Yet spa professionals often become bogged down with all sorts of random distractions in the spa. The biggest mistake many of them make is allowing clients to see them using their phone between appointments. This is unprofessional and detracts from the image and value that a spa projects. While it may be difficult, electronic devices should be put away in a locker, not kept in a pocket or left at their station. A truly focused esthetician has no other goal during a service than providing their guest with the appropriate services and products. Be where your feet are, and focus on the guest in front of you. This has a wonderful, unexpected effect on the wellness of both the guest and the esthetician.
Develop your health and wellness presentation so that you are comfortable explaining it to guests. This is important whether you focus on traditional, holistic or medical esthetic treatments. What matters is that every professional finds their voice and their confidence, and can articulate the benefits of skin and anti-aging services, take-home products and repeat visits. Benefits: Good customer service results in great referrals and client retention, not to mention an increase in positive online reviews. Tuning out the noise of the world and focusing on customer service has a wonderful, unexpected impact on wellness. Reduced stress benefits everyone.
3. Professionalism What equates to success is knowing that professionalism and the discipline to maintain it makes a huge difference in workplace success. The effort you put into your own approach to providing services will always pay off in the end. We are all responsible for disciplining ourselves and supporting others by following the advice we give. Never expect a client to adopt a new way of life when it comes to skin care or wellness if you do not demonstrate the high standards you are touting through your own actions. Expecting nothing less than the best from yourself is the key to professional growth and success. n Jill Kohler is president of Penrose Academy, an educational institute specializing in six-week cosmetic laser and medical esthetics training courses for beauty professionals. For more information on advanced medical esthetics training, visit penroseacademy.com or call 480.222.9540.
Page 78 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
Advanced Science for Great Skin
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MEG 21: Scientifically formulated for healthy skin, beautified. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #344 on reader service card
THE CULTURE OF
technology AT A TIME WHEN THERE IS MORE COMPETItion and options than ever before in the world of mobile phones, computers and tablets, sales of Apple® products continue to soar. Apple has posted double digit sales growth for more than a decade, with the last five years being among the strongest. All of this comes at a time when our world economy has been in complete turmoil. How is this possible? Apple has created more than a product— they have literally created a culture. A culture that includes a synergistic family of unique products that are each designed to achieve and satisfy a specific objective. At the same time, they all share a single objective. It is fair to say that once you understand one Apple product, the rest of them are very intuitive to use. Regardless
of whether you purchase an iPhone® before your MacBook Air or the other way around, the two products interchange, share and work in perfect harmony with one another. Apple customers can begin with any part of the line and successfully expand in any direction with the products based on their specific needs and desires.
Success is in the details! The detail that this company puts into every product is nothing short of amazing. From the materials used in manufacturing to the texture, weight, colors and sleek designs to the packaging and intelligence of every interaction with an Apple product, their pursuit of perfection is clear. Independent of the technology itself, Apple has also pioneered the simple philosophy of education.
Page 80 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Somkcr/Shutterstock.com
BY DAVID SUZUKI
WHAT WE CAN LEARN FROM APPLE
business
Culture
Quality and partnership
Today, skin care is defined by technology. It is no longer a question of whether you use technology, only a question of what kind of technology you use. Following the Apple concept, look for forward thinking manufacturers who have created an entire line of technology products that work in harmony with one another. The products should be layered together, but they each should be usable on their own as well. Look for a line of technology that meets specific objectives, while at the same time can keep up with your business as it grows and your needs evolve. Look for the details that the products represent. This includes the colors and materials used for manufacturing, the finishes of the products, the overall visual appearance and synergy of the whole family of technology. Working with companies who have put the effort into ensuring that they have unique designs, which are owned by them, is a good starting point. Use this experience as a benchmark of what to expect from the rest of the company and its technology.
As much as we like the way a piece of technology looks, it must also perform effectively and work seamlessly with the other technology within the line. In other words, you do not want to work with a supplier or manufacturer who sells redundancy. Stay away from the “night market” technology suppliers, who seem to have everything and anything that you can think of, including every brand and off-brand. Find the right specialist, find the Apple of the skin care market!
photo courtesy of Bio-Therapeutic
It takes a team! As Apple has discovered, there is not one miracle technology that addresses every need, but rather a synergistic team of technology working together toward a common objective. Skin care technology is no different. Forward thinking manufacturers will always offer a team of technology that includes hand held gear like the iPhone, accent or mid-range technology such as the iPad, and full featured, more comprehensive professional technology such as the iMac desktop system. Having the diversity of the three categories of technology allows each of them to be used either in a different way, in a different environment, or all together in the same environment. It is also a strategic way to creatively diversify your budget and tailor the equipment package to your specific needs. While one skin therapist may need three professional devices, another may only need one professional device, two accent and three sets of gear. The first skin therapist is an owner/operator, while the second has a spa with three rooms. As each of their businesses evolve, each skin therapist can add to their technology collection within the same line, knowing that they will all work in synergy with one another, and with the same logic. October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
As you are evaluating technology manufacturers, look through their literature, explore their website and speak with their team. This in itself will reveal their level of attention to detail, and the knowledge of the team who will be guiding you in your business as you move forward. Remember that making an investment in technology is really the process of starting a partnership. The initial purchase represents the beginning of that partnership.
Education, education, education … Apple founder Steve Jobs knew that education and customer support are crucial factors of a successful partnership. Working with a company that maintains a formal education department is a must. Working with a company whose educators are active skin therapists and use the technology themselves is also a definite must! You are looking for a skin care technology manufacturer who can be your partner, so they must believe in the same philosophy. Not only should you receive education after the purchase of the technology, you should receive ongoing education perpetually in the form of webinars, continues
APPLE FOUNDER STEVE JOBS KNEW THAT EDUCATION AND CUSTOMER SUPPORT ARE CRUCIAL FACTORS OF A SUCCESSFUL PARTNERSHIP. WORKING WITH A COMPANY THAT MAINTAINS A FORMAL EDUCATION DEPARTMENT IS A MUST.
LNEONLINE.com • Page 81
business|the culture of technology
live presentations and classes that you can attend, consistently updated information on their website and via email, directly from the education department. In addition, you should be able to pick up the phone, send a direct email, or have a one-on-one Skype or Face Time meeting at any time regarding any subject or questions that you have. However there are great advantages to having well manufactured technology. Even Apple knows that without their dedication to education, the true success and possibilities of their products would never have been realized.
The cost of goods to perform a service with any technology should not exceed two to four percent of the service value. Smart investing
David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #253 on reader service card
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photo courtesy of Bio-Therapeutic
As with most commodities in life, large contrasts in pricing with regards to skin care technology exist. While some of it is logical and directly related to the quality and cost of goods, the bulk of it is not. Apple has set yet another precedent in regard to pricing. Who would have thought that the most sought after technology in the world would be so reasonably priced and attainable? Skin care technology should also be reasonably priced, and moreover it should have a price that is relative to its use and objective. Paying an outrageous price for a piece of skin care technology will only guarantee you a huge bill at the end of each month! Look closely at technologies that require specific accessories and products to function, as this is also part of the cost equation. The cost of goods to perform a service with any technology should not exceed two to four percent of the service value. For example, a service that you will charge $100 for should cost you no more than $2 to $4 to perform. Purchasing technology for your business extends beyond the technology itself! Enter into a partnership that has the potential to open many new pathways of success for you and your business! n
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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #274
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by Dori Soukup
achieve | business financial health
for your business Your budget should include a monthly breakdown of all your finances, such as: • Number of clients you expect to see • Forecasted service revenue • Forecasted retail revenue • Product cost • Compensation cost • Operating cost • Marketing expenses • Budgeted profit
Inventory is a big expense if it is not managed properly. Your inventory includes retail, professional products, guest supplies, team supplies, etc.
their own boss, have more freedom and make more money. But the sad fact is that in most cases, the owners don’t pay themselves. They end up working harder than everyone else while making less money. According to the U.S. Census statistics, an average business makes a net profit of about seven percent. Where do you stand? Are your overhead expenses diminishing your bottom line?
1. Have a budget Most owners do not. Without a budget, you are allowing your business to manage you instead of you managing it. Whether your business is large, medium or small in size—or even if you are a solopreneur, you must have a budget.
The key is to make the budget as detailed as possible so your revenue goals are clear, and to be disciplined enough to not overspend.
2. Your profit and loss statement The profit and loss statement is your monthly report card. This allows you to see your financial ratios and ensure they are aligned. There are four important financial ratios to measure. a. Operating expenses b. Product cost c. Compensation cost d. Profits Operating expenses and compensation are the two biggest expenses for a business. In most cases, the compensa-
tion ratio is too high. To be profitable, your compensation ratio cannot exceed 40 percent of your overall budget. For example, you can afford to pay 40 cents toward compensation for each dollar that comes into your business. If your compensation cost is more than that, then you are at risk of having an unhealthy business.
3. Managing your inventory Inventory is a big expense if it is not managed properly. Your inventory includes retail, professional products, guest supplies, team supplies, etc. Use your software system to track your inventory, retail and professional turnover rate. This will help you find out if your staff is overusing professional products or giving guests treatment upgrades without charging them. That causes treatment costs to go up and diminishes your profits. To prevent this from happening, have a dispensary, and pre-measure product use to monitor waste so you can exercise better cost control. As for retail, you must have self-discipline to not overspend. Calculate your “open to buy” rate to avoid doing so.
4. Expense management tips Guest supplies • Avoid using paper goods such as cups and plates. Use glass or washable, durable, high-end plastic instead. This will bring about big savings over time. continues
Page 84 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Andresr/Shutterstock.com
WHEN SPA AND SALON OWNERS first go into business, they are often excited and can’t wait to get started. Later, reality sets in as the bills start piling up, followed by pressure, tension and anxiety. To avoid those pitfalls, look for ways to cut expenses and generate more revenue so it is worthwhile to be in business. The main reason entrepreneurs go into business for themselves is to be
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business|achieve financial health
Wellness Insurance
• To save on laundry, only offer robes to guests who are having multiple treatments. • Use paper for waxing clients. This will save on laundry and the wear and tear of your linens. • Don’t go overboard with providing refreshments. It can get very expensive if you are constantly supplying the team with snacks and gourmet drinks.
Bartering to cut cost You can barter many services to cut costs. For example, your bookkeeping and accounting costs can be bartered. From your fresh flowers, refreshments, bookkeeping, graphic designing and website updates, almost everything can be bartered. That automatically reduces your costs. Building bartering relationships can help you become more profitable.
Paper copies Place PDF files of all your clients online, and recommend they go to your website to download forms, print and complete and bring with them or send via email. This saves a large amount of paper, ink and time as well.
The spa industry is filled with rightbrained professionals who are more artistic and don’t enjoy working with numbers. However, if you want to be a prosperous businessperson, you need to fall in love with numbers, and look at them often to measure your success. That is your path to owning a financially healthy business! n
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Supplier contributions Your suppliers can contribute to your events, samples and training. Make sure you set up a meeting to discuss how they can help you cut expenses. Sampling can be very costly without the vendor’s contribution. To sell, you must allow guests to sample products. Gratuity processing fees This is a cost that many spa owners do not take into account. When a guest pays their gratuity on a credit card, the spa owner pays a credit card processing fee on that transaction, thereby increasing their cost. This is why some spas are now enforcing cash only tips. Another option is to charge your team a processing fee out of the gratuity prior to paying them to avoid the additional printing cost.
Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.
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by Pam Stellema
business|
grow your client list
4 strategies to attract new clients to your spa for doing so. The more proactive you are with this, the quicker your database and your profits will grow.
The downside: Unless those new clients are wowed immediately, they will probably only come in that one time to
All you need to do is to create a worthwhile offer for your clients and their friends, one that is just too good to pass up.
Strategy 1. Start a client referral program This strategy is a real winner for every spa owner. It requires you and your team members to actively encourage existing clients to introduce friends and associates to your spa, and then reward them
Strategy 2. Implement an “Introduce a Friend” promotion When run over a defined period of time, this promotion provides you with a quick influx of new clients. All you need to do is create a worthwhile offer for your clients and their friends, one that is just too good to pass up. An example would be a buy one, get one free service offer. Clients generally split the cost between themselves and enjoy great savings. The upside: A good number of potential new clients arrive in your spa in a short time frame.
receive the special offer. You must also keep in mind that client acquisition (not increased profitability) is the goal for this promotion.
Strategy 3. Find joint venture partners I’m a big fan of this client attraction strategy. Essentially, by teaming up with another business that has a similar target market and getting them to recommend you to their client base, you can get exposure to a lot of potential new clients very fast. This strategy involves making a special offer to the clients from the other business, and in return, the other business will make a similar offer to your clients. It can be a real win-win, but you must do your homework to ensure you team up with the right business. The upside: This is a fast way to introduce your spa to a lot of potential clients. continues
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EVERY SPA NEEDS A GREAT many clients to survive; however clients have an unfortunate habit of dropping off the grid for a variety of reasons. That is why it is essential to continuously gain new ones and expand your client base. Rather than rely solely on effortless, organic growth, you must also consider a number of simple, low cost strategies to ensure that new clients keep arriving at your spa. While no client attraction strategy is perfect, these are my four favorites to help keep your spa growing and thriving.
The upside: Clients acquired this way are more likely to remain with you because they have received a personal recommendation from a friend. The downside: Because this is a long term strategy, it introduces new clients into your spa in a slow, steady trickle rather than a fast gush.
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Be very careful about which business you choose to partner with in order to avoid any disappointment.
The downside: When you decide to enter into a joint venture, you must be very careful about which business you choose to partner with in order to avoid any disappointment for yourself and your clients.
Strategy 4. Become a public speaker
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Pam Stellema is the principal coach and founder of SalonSavy, where she provides specialized industry-based coaching to clients through telephone conversations. Stellema has previously owned and operated several highly successful salons, and specializes in maximizing salon productivity and profits. She can be contacted via telephone at 011 617 55296467.
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Every spa has clients who belong to local associations and clubs. This provides you with a fantastic opportunity to speak to groups of potential new clients. You can arrange to host a morning tea where you will have the opportunity to present your spa and the services you offer to the group. You simply need to provide some great advice about something that will interest the group, supply some sample bags with your information and a small gift voucher inside, and perhaps present a demonstration. The upside: The group members are most likely locals, which makes them ideal clients for your spa. The downside: This can be a bit daunting if public speaking is not your strength. There you have it, my four suggested strategies to grow your client database without spending a fortune. Use them all, and new clients will always be arriving in your spa, ready to enjoy the pampering you are going to give them. n
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Éminence Organic Skin Care celebrated the biggest milestone in education for the spa industry, says the company. On Sunday, June 23, 2013, cofounder and president Boldijarre Koronczay held his 2,000th master class. Koronczay demonstrated his signature massage and facial techniques in a class that marked an inspirational achievement for Éminence and for the spa industry. eminenceorganics.com 888.747.6342
FILM APP FOR BRAND FILMS The emergence of new video app and online community MixBit proves homespun films are becoming one of the most important ways for spas to showcase and promote their team and their brand. The free MixBit software app allows users to make 16-second films, giving stylists, therapists and salon owners the flexibility and confidence to video record their work. Spas also have the option to upload content to the MixBit community, where it could be viewed by millions. The MixBit app is currently free to download for iPhones and iPads. theshoutlounge.com
MOST ADMIRED COMPANY PCA SKIN® has been honored for the third year in a row as one of 40 businesses to be named Arizona’s Most Admired Companies on behalf of AZ Business Magazine and BestCompaniesAZ. PCA SKIN attributes their success to a unique customer-centric organization style which places the physicians and clinicians the company serves at the center. pcaskin.com 877.PCA.SKIN
STRATEGIC SOLUTIONS InSPAration Management introduces Build Your List and Grow Your Business, a 3-disc audio CD set created for spa leaders to gain strategies for building a list from their target market and establishing long-lasting, profitable relationships with clients. The CD set outlines a new system called B.E.F.R.I.E.N.D.S. It is designed to make list building easy, effective and profitable. Spa leaders will learn about 16 methods to creating enticing opt-in opportunities to generate leads and motivate guests to join their list. Additionally, spa professionals will learn 25 strategies to build relationships, turn leads into clients and convert these clients into lifetime clients. InSPArationManagement.com 386.226.2550
SHOWROOM AND TRAINING CENTER Le Mieux Cosmetics opened its highly anticipated showroom and training center—Bielle Institute—in Pasadena, CA on July 22, 2013. The two-story, brightly lit facility features one large classroom space and conference room upstairs, along with two dedicated facial rooms outfitted with the latest technology devices and facial beds. A downstairs reception area has comfortable chairs and customized product displays in one sunlit room with high ceilings. Guests at the opening event included estheticians, professional makeup artists and other Le Mieux vendors, who were treated to exciting raffle prizes and gift bags of Le Mieux products. Pictured from left to right: Janel Luu, Julie Washington and guest. LeMieuxCosmetics.com 888.327.8188
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For results you can see Nothing emphasizes an esthetician’s professional expertise more than the quiet snap of an ampoule neck and the subsequent application and working-in of the precious liquid.
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USA – MIDWEST USA – MIDWEST call: 1-800-826-1193 call: 1-888-845-1191 grandelusa_southeast@ grandelusa_southeast@ estheticsupply.com estheticsupply.com www.grandel-midwest.com www.grandelusa-midwest.com
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and non-toxic organic & wellness natural plumping ingredients by Tata Harper
els in the upper layers of the skin and regenerates cells, increasing density. The extract reinforces skin’s resistance to the weakening effects of aging, thus acting as a preventative and restorative element.
Narcissus bulb extract also works as a key ingredient in helping to slow the skin’s aging process. Narcissus bulb extract also works as a key ingredient in helping to slow the skin’s aging process. Clinical studies have shown that overall, it increases firmness and decreases wrinkle depth. After 42 days, studies confirmed a 17.5 percent decrease in wrinkle depth. Narcissus bulb extract not only supported the epidermis, it also honed in on the multiple intercellular fluid layers. By truly counteracting the depletion of collagen levels within the dermis, the ingredient challenges the assumption that natural ingredients are less effective than their synthetic counterparts. In addition to plumping ingredients, you must increase moisture retention in order to add volume to the dermis layer to combat sagging skin. This cannot be
overstated. Hydro mineral suspension is a technology that uses fine minerals encapsulated in charged water to increase the skin’s water retention, therefore plumping the skin from within while diminishing the
look of fine lines and creases. As we age, the skin loses its natural ability to create and retain moisture. For that reason, reinforcing the skin’s natural hydration factor is an important anti-aging step for all skin types. The benefits of 100 percent natural topical plumping solutions extend to post-application, as no special treatment is needed afterward. Instead, the skin is lifted, strengthened and rejuvenated for long-term results. These are the formulation breakthroughs that take natural antiaging science to the next level, and give clients cutting-edge technology in their daily regimens without compromising on health or results. n Tata Harper is the founder of Tata Harper Skincare. Harper worked with a team of chemists, herbalists and biologists to develop the premium, 100 percent natural skin care line that offers real anti-aging results. Her award-winning products are produced on her family’s 1,200 acre certified-organic farm in the Champlain Valley of Vermont.
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M O S T WO M E N K N OW T H AT plumping the skin is achieved through injectables or topical synthetic ingredients. But not all women are willing to compromise their health by using products that contain low doses of potential toxins. The modern client focused on natural anti-aging wants the best—she wants the next generation of anti-aging ingredient technology. For these discerning clients, there are 100 percent natural ingredients that deliver dramatic results comparable to their synthetic counterparts, which are much safer and more effective than the alternatives. Wheat starch extracts, sweet iris, narcissus bulb and hydro mineral suspension are all natural breakthrough ingredients that plump the skin. Researchers have traveled the globe, seeking out the most advanced natural ingredient technology. What they have discovered is a proprietary concoction of collagen-boosting, skin-plumping, fermented wheat starch extracts. Upon in vitro testing, it was discovered that the wheat starch extract increased the diameter of the cells to restore volume, which helps to create the look of fullness. In clinical testing, deep wrinkles decreased by 39 percent, and total wrinkle area decreased by 24 percent. The wheat starch extract also addresses loss of firmness by providing structural support to cells and rebuilding collagen. The use of these ingredients creates a major breakthrough in plumping the skin. New research also shows that extracts such as sweet iris and narcissus bulb stem cells deliver incredible redensifying results to smooth wrinkles and restore fullness. In clinical trials, sweet iris stem cells had a significant impact on the dermis and epidermis to synthesize collagen. Sweet iris limits destruction of the collagen lev-
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Page 96 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
organic & wellness
FOR THE
HEALTHOF IT HERE IN THE U.S., OUR SUPERMARKETS are overflowing with foods of every nationality. The way food is processed and packaged has changed drastically since Gerry Thomas introduced the first Swanson TV dinner in 1954. We have new inventions of space age packaging, permanently preserved, irradiated foods and reconstituted gourmet meals. We are bombarded with advertising, which has blurred our vision about what truly healthy food is, and what constitutes a healthy diet. With all these new inventions and modern technology, we are plagued with a list of diseases that can be fatal (heart disease, colon cancer, hypertension, arteriosclerosis, lung cancer, etc.), many of which were not prevalent about 70 years ago. We know that our lifestyle and our diets are directly linked to this epidemic. As partners in the health care industry, spas and therapists have the opportunity to educate their guests on how to make healthier choices to improve their lifestyle. Clients who make healthy dietary choices will be able to reap the benefits of the therapies and treatments offered at a spa! Since the 1970s, obesity in the U.S. has more than doubled in both children and adults. Currently, about 33 percent of all Americans are lactose intolerant, which translates to about 40 million individuals. This condition occurs when the small intestine does not produce enough of an enzyme called lactase. Without lactase, a natural sugar found in milk and dairy products, the body cannot easily digest these foods. Thankfully, there are supplements for this condition, as well as many lactose free dairy products on the mar-
October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
ket. Another common addiction is sugar, as it helps to stimulate and improve your mood. In the U.S., three out of every 10 people suffer from glucose intolerance, which is an abnormal blood sugar balance. It affects insulin, and one of insulin’s responsibilities is to absorb glucose from the blood. If that does not take place, insulin will promote the storage of fat. It is important that we learn to achieve and maintain good blood sugar levels, which means keeping our glucose levels balanced. Many fruits and vegetables fulfill this purpose. Apples are fantastic for maintaining sugar levels. Bananas (also a great source of potassium, fiber and vitamin C), agave (a natural sugar derived from a plant that makes a great alternative for artificial sweeteners) and pineapples are among the best sources of natural sugar, along with carrots, red beets and prunes. For starchy carbohydrates, whole grains are best. Whole grains are rich in fiber, minerals and vitamins. The label must read “100 percent whole grain.” When grains are refined, they lose the bran, the germ and their nutritional value. Fruits and vegetables are very high in vitamins, minerals and fiber, which are vital for proper body function. Proteins are important for building and repairing tissues, as they contain essential minerals (iron, magnesium and zinc) and several B vitamins. Nutritionists recommend that all fats in meats and poultry (skin) be trimmed and drained prior to consumption. Consuming fish at least twice a continues
BY GOLDIE BONNELL
PROFESSIONALLY AND PERSONALLY
LNEONLINE.com • Page 97
organic & wellness|for the health of it
week is also recommended, specifically those that are rich in omega oils such as salmon, trout and fresh tuna. Vegans ban all animal products from their diet, and receive their protein from nuts, seeds and beans. Vegetarians, on the other hand, can consume dairy products and eggs. Dairy products are a good source of calcium, which is important for healthy bones and teeth. Many nutritionists recommend a diet that includes low fat dairy. Broccoli, cabbage and soy milk are good plant-based sources of calcium, which are particularly useful to those who do not consume any animal sourced foods. Omega-3 fatty acids are essential fatty acids, which means the body cannot manufacture them, so the only way to get their benefits is by consuming them. Cold water fish is an excellent source, and walnuts, soy and flaxseed are other good sources. There are several stimulants that many people find addictive and challenging to avoid, one of the most common being coffee. Coffee contains three specific addictive stimulants. These are caffeine, theobromine and theophylline. Caffeine is the strongest, followed by theobromine. Theophylline is known to cause disturbances to sleep. Coffee interrupts vital mineral absorption, and reduces iron absorption by one third if consumed with a meal. Even decaffeinated coffee contains theophylline, theobromine and up to 35 chemicals that are used to decaffeinate coffee. Caffeine is extracted from the seed of the coffee plant, the leaves of the tea bush and the kola nut. It is a legal and unregulated substance (psychoactive drug) that acts on the CNS to temporarily stimulate and restore alertness. In the U.S., 90 percent of all adults enjoy caffeine on a daily basis in the form of coffee, tea, energy drinks or soda.
OTHER UNHEALTHY FOOD SOURCES • Saturated fats are derived from animal products such as dairy, eggs and meat. They should be consumed in small quantities, as they raise LDL (bad) cholesterol levels. • Trans fats (or hydrogenated fats) are actually unsaturated fats (meaning they raise LDL while also lowering HDL cholesterol). Hydrogenation is a chemical process that changes liquid oils into solids. They extend the shelf life of processed foods such as donuts, cakes, chips and cookies. Any food that contains “hydrogenated oil” or “partially hydrogenated oil” most likely contains trans fats. • Foods produced from genetically modified organisms, specifically, genetically modified crops. These are often referred to as GMOs. Canola oil, which is used by almost all restaurants and is in nearly all fried products you buy in stores, is one of the top three GMOs. • Monosodium glutamate. These toxic salts are commonly known as MSG. Most fried foods contain this substance to enhance their “dead food” flavor. Also, fried foods are inflammatory foods, which creates health issues. • Many Americans are taking antacids, which makes things even worse, as they prevent natural enzyme production by the body. In continues
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Omega-3 fatty acids are essential fatty acids, which means the body cannot manufacture them, so the only way to get their benefits is by consuming them. Cold water fish is an excellent source, and walnuts, soy and flaxseed are other good sources.
Theobromine is extracted from the cacao plant, as well as the leaves of the tea plant and the kola nut. Despite its name, it contains no bromine (Greek - Theo - God) and broma (food, meaning “food of the gods”). It is one of the main ingredients in chocolate. Theophylline is naturally derived from cocoa beans. It is the key ingredient in tea. Also known as dimethyl xanthine, it is used to treat respiratory diseases, such as COPD and asthma. It has similar structural functions as caffeine, and is also linked with sleep disorders. Tea contains as much caffeine as a weak cup of coffee. Tea also contains tannins, which interfere with the absorption of vital minerals such as zinc and iron. In addition, most black teas contain bergamot, which is an addictive stimulant. Chocolate contains theobromine, and is loaded with sugar. Theobromine is also present in hot chocolate, which tastes great. It is very easy to become a “chocoholic.”
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organic & wellness|for the health of it
addition, it leads to adding bad calcium, which lowers our bodies’ natural protection against infections and parasites. • Modified, processed and fried foods. These foods don’t break down in the body properly. Instead, they remain in the kidneys, liver, intestines, prostate and colon for extended periods of time, if not forever. These are empty calories and totally void of nutrients, so the body keeps searching for anything of nutritional value. The feeling of being full wears off sooner and the need to eat arises. • Gluten. This protein is found in rye, barley, grains and wheat, along with an abundance of other food items. This emerging health issue associated with gluten is referred to as “celiac disease,” and it affects one in 133 Americans. Their bodies cannot digest any form of gluten, which leads to gastrointestinal distress and nutritional deficiencies. Consider hosting an event with fitness experts and nutritionists, or leading a lecture on proper fitness and nutrition. Take a look at your menu and offer special treatments and packages (including retail) for “creating a better you.” One of the simplest ways to educate clients about health and fitness is to keep booklets and other sources of information about nutrition and exercise onhand. In addition, outline specific services and retail that can get the client
on the road to better health. Partner with a health club or personal trainer, and offer these services to your clients with spa services and home care. Educate your client on how poor dietary choices are affecting their skin and overall health. Many people today have moved away from gimmicky diets, but are interested in tips on how they can achieve and maintain beautiful healthy skin. Plus, eating healthy will help you to stay healthy yourself, enabling you to enjoy longevity in your career as a spa therapist! n
Goldie Bonnell has more than 20 years of experience in the skin care and wellness industries. She has designed programs and client treatments for many spas. Bonnell has been involved in the building of training centers for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. Teaching is Bonnell’s passion, and she has been a featured speaker on numerous topics at industry trade shows throughout the U.S. and Germany.
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by Jeri Ross, M.P.H.
organic & wellness|chi power balancing services ANCIENT TRADITIONAL CHINESE Medicine (TCM) healing practices have grown in popularity over the past 20 years as effective preventative and curative holistic medicinal modalities. Spas across the country have been evolving with this trend, incorporating chi balancing services like shiatsu massage and acupuncture that attract an ever
that controls both health and disease. Often referred to as subtle energy, chi is thought to flow throughout the body along channels called meridians.
Why balance chi? According to TCM, all systems within the body are interconnected. When chi is strong, balanced and flowing freely
One of the more common chi balancing services offered by spas is shiatsu massage, derived from Japanese massage traditions. Chi’s yin-yang effect expanding health-conscious market. Balancing chi, we are learning, has everything to do with reducing stress and enhancing vitality and longevity while promoting a healthy, youthful appearance. Here are some chi basics that can help you educate your clients about the benefits of chi balancing services, and possibly decide to start offering these health and beauty enhancement treatments in your spa.
photo: Shutterstock.com
Chi is vital energy Chi (pronounced ‘chee’) is the life-giving energy that unites the body, mind and spirit. From a Chinese medicine perspective, chi is the basic energy that is the “alive” living electricity aspect of our biology. It is this vital life force October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
throughout the body, a person enjoys good health. However, if chi becomes blocked or stagnates in the body, ill health is the result. Disease is the manifestation of disrupted, blocked or unbalanced chi movement through the body’s meridians, as well as deficiencies of chi in various organs, along with the immune, nervous and hormonal systems. For example, when chi flow is obstructed, there is stagnation that causes pain, poor digestion, irritability, fatigue or inflammation. This state of disharmony affects the quality of blood, blood flow and body fluids, causing illness and poor health. Consequently, chi disruptions cause an imbalance of yin and yang in the body, which needs to be re-adjusted to restore health.
The core idea of ancient TCM healing therapies is that by correcting imbalances in the flow of subtle energy along the meridians, a healthy yin-yang balance is achieved. Chinese medicine practitioners believe that there are many kinds of chi, and the most basic kinds are yin chi and yang chi. Yin is female and yang is male. Each person and part of the body has an ideal point of balance of yin and yang for optimal health. Some techniques are more appropriate for increasing yang chi and some are appropriate for decreasing yang chi, and likewise for yin chi. According to Xu Xiangcai, author of The Principles of Chinese Medicine: The Essential Guide to Understanding the Human Body, the continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 101
five elemental forces of fire, earth, water, metal and wood. Gia Blair from Huntington Spa explains, “Based on the responses that our clients provide on our preliminary assessment questionnaire, we select an element treatment program, wood for example, that will help balance their chi. Each element has its own specific massage, essential oils, breathing techniques and herbal tea.” Chuan Couples Suite, photo courtesy of The Langham Huntington, Pasadena
yin-yang doctrine has been applied to the study of physiology and pathology of the body for diagnosis and treatment of ill health and diseases for centuries.
Imbalanced chi Chi is influenced by each person’s physical, mental and spiritual makeup. The quality of one’s health is based on the quality of their chi—dependent upon whether it is flowing smoothly in the right place at the right time, whether or not it is well-balanced or how well it is nourished. It is common for people with a typical stressful lifestyle to suffer from imbalanced chi. Jon Kabat-Zinn, the creator of the world renowned MindfulnessBased Stress Reduction program, provides a helpful suggestion. “The key to maintaining life balance is responding to stress, not with frustration and selfcriticism, but with mindful, nonjudgmental awareness.” Chi balancing could be considered a mindfulness approach to health and well-being. For clients who have any of the following symptoms, chi balancing may be helpful for restoring their health: • Poor memory, lack of concentration, no willpower • Restless sleep, nightmares • Easily catches a cold or the flu • Poor digestion, acid reflux, loose stools, constipation • Frequent urination or excess bowel movements • Pain of any kind, anywhere on the body • Easily stressed, suffers from anxiety or panic attacks
• • • •
Tired all the time, feels unwell Irritable, angry, unhappy, moody Overweight or unfit Fitness does not improve with exercise • Inflammation, feels hot all the time or is easily cold • Has been ill for awhile, or cannot get well
Chi balancing services at the spa The spa is an appealing, comfortable environment where clients can restore their health and vitality with chi balancing treatments. One of the more common chi balancing services offered by spas is shiatsu massage, derived from Japanese massage traditions. The technique is performed by applying finger pressure to certain points on the body to regulate and balance chi flows. Miraval Resort and Spa in Tucson, AZ offers integrative Chi Nei Tsang (CNT), a centuries-old healing touch therapy from China. It focuses on deep, gentle abdominal massage in order to “train” the internal abdominal organs to work more efficiently, which in turn is said to improve physical and emotional health. CNT is based on the belief that unresolved emotional issues are stored in the digestive system, and that poor “emotional digestion” is one of the main causes of ill health. Chuan Body + Soul treatments form the foundation of chi balancing services offered at The Huntington Spa at The Langham Huntington, Pasadena. Chuan (which means flowing water) signature treatments are based on TCM and the
Esthetic chi According to Erin Madigan-Fleck, N.M.D., the international director of education at the Institut’ DERMed College of Advanced Aesthetics in Atlanta, GA, there are a number of modalities that the holistic esthetic practitioner can integrate into the spa setting. “The ancient tradition of facial cupping, for example, offers a therapeutic wellness treatment for the face, neck and décolleté,” she explains. Gentle acupressure is performed in conjunction with the rhythmic movements of cupping along facial meridians. This helps to draw out toxins, reduce puffiness and ease facial muscle tension, which results in the softening of fine lines and wrinkles. Learning and utilizing ancient Eastern healing practices helps clients live in states of improved health, age more gracefully and feel more mindful and aware of their bodies. Chi balancing is an important and valuable approach to wellness that is here to stay. n
Jeri Ross, M.P.H. is a licensed health educator with more than 25 years of experience working in public health. She is the owner of Braintasia Mind Mastery Method™, a holistic brain-based stress reduction program that is offered in spas nationwide. Ross is a recognized speaker, business coach, author, entrepreneur and trainer. For more information, email jeriross@braintasia.com, call 831.419.7275 or visit braintasia.com.
Page 102 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
by Carina Chatlani
organic & wellness| “ H OW A R E YO U F E E L I N G today?” As underlying feelings or emotions often represent a physical outcome in traditional medicine such as Ayurveda, a quick explanation in response to this question seems inadequate. The body is never the same from one day to the next, with the recycling of various emotions, chemicals, cells and growth cycles. Thus, clients are impelled to look inward for a brief moment, and heuristically evaluate how they feel in order to answer this question. Encouraging a natural pause can sometimes give rise to a field of space, where the client’s complex cognitive decision process can flow with greater ease. A breath of fresh energy is needed in the process.
to the cells. Frequency is the overall energetic resonance emitted in the body. Researchers have determined that the human body has an electrical frequency that generally ranges between 62 and 70 megahertz (MHz). Research shows that negative thoughts lower a person’s potential frequency by 12 MHz. Positive thoughts have been found to raise the measured frequency of the test subjects by 10 MHz, on average. Focused prayer and/or meditation has been found to increase the measured
Therapists may help create the conditions to heal, but the healing itself comes from within.
Embodiment of enlightened living vs. cellular dying The energetic consciousness of illness accumulates gradually. For most forms of illness, the anecdotal light bulb does not suddenly come on. It may look like the disease happened overnight, but subtle signs and symptoms had been occurring beforehand, slowly revealing themselves over time. Ultimately, everything is energy, vibrating at varying frequencies. The higher the vibration of one’s energy, the less it becomes fodder for disease. Researchers have concluded that disease cannot exist in high vibration cells.
A description of frequencies Living organisms have measurable frequencies created on various levels from the brain, heart, eyes and skin, even down October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
frequency levels by 15 MHz. Health starts to decline around 57 Mhz, and bacteria and viruses start to thrive. The higher frequency levels you maintain, the less likely you are to “catch” a cold. Research has also shown that cells are more receptive to cancer at approximately 42 MHz. Research has demonstrated that the frequency of love has an effect on generating a more resilient and buoyant immune system.
G-A-S-P The G-A-S-P (a four-step process) principles, intentions and insights outlined in this article are ensured to eradicate the energy zappers that prevent complete and absolute focus on a high vibration*
healing from within
self; they change our perception, establish new beliefs and ultimately reawaken luminosity. G: Grasping [low frequency = 125*]. Includes desire and anger. People existing at this frequency level might experience many negative relational interactions, as they tend to be holding onto deep seated beliefs that bring irrational attitudes to the surface. Some of them live with a greater sense of fear than others. They may be suspicious; defensiveness is common. On the positive side, their desire functions to motivate, and can be an impetus for change. Combined with ego, however, the negative side strives to be recognized and functions from lack of self esteem, craving excess in terms of power, money and sex. Graspers may seek to obtain these desires through unethical means. Christine Hays, vice president of operations at Oberoi Hotels & Resorts, explains the challenges therapists at Oberoi face when working with guests at this frequency. “The therapists share that they walk away with the pain that the guest described. I explain that the pain has been transferred through their healing hands, and discuss the details of the transfer of energy; to give with positive intention without picking up the unknown energy of the guest. It is important that they release the energy at the end of every treatment to protect themselves against the transfer of energy ... give without taking.” A: Allowing [mid frequency = 310*]. Includes willingness. People at this level generally see life as one big possibility. continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 103
organic & wellness|healing from within They endeavor to do their best with less energetic output at whatever task seems to come naturally. Oscillating between points ranging from “wishing to feel better” to “accepting what is” clearly demonstrates that most people respond to external circumstances, as opposed to thinking that they create conditions from within. There is a core belief that we have to grasp onto something, to act in order to deserve something. Individuals operating at mid-frequency have a willingness to allow the state they find themselves in now, in this moment, having compassion for their inner being and letting that be enough. A willingness to see that one has everything they need within and accepting reality creates an improved path, setting the tone for high vibratory healing. This method requires turning one’s focus inward. Researchers now know that feelings and emotions are produced through chemical changes in the brain. These “chemical communicators” make up the language of the brain. Cognitive scientists have found that the brain gives more attention to negative experiences over positive ones because negative events pose a threat. That means that a more positive way of thinking suddenly takes much more deliberate effort. It is this negative feedback loop at play that can lead to significant psychological distress and anxiety. This is exactly why individuals have to make the strong effort to “counteract” the negative thoughts, pro-actively changing their thinking, how they feel, and reframing or reinterpreting experiences.
S: Stability [mid-high frequency = 350*]. Includes acceptance. Becoming the creator of your life’s experiences is derived from a combination of the skills learned in the previous grasping and allowing phases. This represents obvious differences from the former reactive external locus of focus: harboring victim mentality and the more internal locus of focus on taking responsibility and having courage. People in this phase spend more time in reflection, noting the different scenarios they are surrounded by. Healing requires reflecting in order to understand what is truly evolving within. The external is merely a reflection of the internal, but it is our emotions that create the conditions for the mirror to appear in our life. We magnetically attract the solution, as within every problem is the solution. In effective spa treatments, the therapist’s wisdom can help bring out the conditions to recognize the deeper underlying issues. For whatever conditions we find ourselves in, we can rely on our own inner guidance and ask ourselves, “What do I need to know, what is the cause?” Hearing the answer only requires complete presence. Therapists may help create the conditions to heal, but the healing itself comes from within. From this perspective, a healer is simply an individual who creates an experience with us. Moment by moment, we can be moving one step at a time to create a joyful way of living and being in the world. Four weeks after conception, an embryo produces half a million neurons every minute. The potential to create the way forward is unlimited. Do not define limits with words such as “can’t” or messages such as “I’m not enough,” which are all frequency messages that reduce our overall health vibration. We know that we are more than just our physical bodies, we are energetic beings. P: Purpose [high frequency = 400*]. Includes reason. At this phase of high frequency living, there is a desire for knowledge. High frequency individuals spend less time on activities that don’t provide some direct value. There is a motivation to reason that those aspects that are illusory. It is not reasoning with the mind, it is a cohesive mind and body reasoning, a knowing. They might notice paradoxes and just know. They have realized how to go from just existing to really living. Their intention is to be guided back to themselves. From this place of high vibration, the connection with their inner life is about having a sense of purpose that is personally meaningful, developing strong relationships with others, and giving and receiving support. Good deeds help the brain, stimulate the mirror neurons and send compassionate chemicals through the body. n
Carina Chatlani is the founder and CEO of BODY BISTRO®, a global Ayurvedic, vegan, holistic and wellness spa brand for the lifestyle client who demands luxe products. Chatlani is a sought-after authority in the wellness, spa, organic and lifestyle industries. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #283 on reader service card
Page 104 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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PREVENTATIVE COLLECTION Éminence Organic Skin Care‘s new Youth Shield Collection is formulated to protect skin against the early signs of aging using an exclusive antioxidant complex that balances and safeguards the skin while fighting free radicals. Derived from red currant, elderflower and magnolia bark, the Youth Shield Antioxidant Complex is proven to deliver dramatic results in just 28 days, says the company. Results include a 36 percent increase in skin hydration, an 11 percent enhancement in skin vitality and a 10 percent improvement in skin elasticity. eminenceorganics.com 888.747.6342
Knesko Skin’s collagen gel face masks and eye pads are designed to fight signs of aging by effectively balancing skin tone, reducing inflammation, increasing hydration and dramatically decreasing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, says the company. The products are available in two lines, Diamond Radiance and Nanogold Repair. Both lines are formulated with jojoba oil, marine collagen and hyaluronic acid, as well as rose essential oil to offer therapeutic elements to soothe the mind, body and soul. kneskoskin.com 800.454.3091
MOISTURIZING MAGIC
PREMIUM PEDICURE Cuccio Naturalé has created the new herbal DETOXSOAK™ Kit, which features a standalone service, a 15-minute DETOXSOAK and a 15-minute DETOXSOAK Somatology Massage. It can also be an addon to a regular pedicure service. Boost your income with this service as you help your clients destress, relax and revitalize! cuccio.com 800.407.7797
The super light, oil-free HydraVita Skin Restoring Gel from Nature Pure Labs is an anti-aging gel that rejuvenates, moisturizes and nourishes skin. The rich and effective blend, which includes hyaluronic acid, liposomes, vitamins A and B and aloe vera, improves skin resiliency and suppleness, says the company. It is calming and soothing for oily, combination and normal skin. It can be applied prior to sunblock to help lock in moisture, as well as an aftershave for men to alleviate irritation. naturepure.com 866.640.SKIN
Page 106 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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Salon and Spa Owners: Did you know HydroPeptide was recently voted Top AntiAging Line by readers of Day Spa Magazine? 1000’s of spas worldwide are getting amazing anti-aging results with HydroPeptide. Call us today and find out how we can help you grow your business and your bottom line with Peptides! Call us at 1.800.932.9873 or join us Monday’s at 10am PST for our webinar on Peptides at www.HydroPeptide.com.
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Granactive Acne Peptide
15% Lactic Acid
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by Tim Maurer
SOME OF THE IDEAS I SHARE in this article may seem somewhat harsh, but it is worthwhile to pay close attention to what I have to say. Why do we get so nervous about the clients who are at a place in their life where they can understand our recommendations—and afford them? Wake up! Here is the Golden Rule.
Less is more. More = old! If a client over 35 expresses concern about makeup making her feel older … DING DING DING! Find an alternative that works for her. If you are still buying products for your business purely based on fashion trends, stop! Invest in classic shades and finishes that work for the majority of your guests. Consider the following facts about the different types of makeup, and advice about how to work with each. 1. Concealer: The demon in the room for any client over 35. a. The thicker the texture, the more coverage it provides. It almost always also produces a decade’s worth of lines that were not on your client’s face when they walked in. b. Don’t say this: “You’re dark under the eye, let me highlight the area.”
Second greatest sin! With darkness from maturing comes edema from maturity. If you get rid of darkness but highlight swelling, you have just lost the battle, and maybe the entire war. 2. Foundation: I didn’t say spackle! a. A full coverage, lumbering texture will not suit this client. You’re looking for a tinted moisturizer with plenty of pigment that will float on the surface of the skin. If this is not available, add moisturizer to your product choice to make it more free flowing. b. Matte = mature. The term “dewey” gets a bad reputation because it is often mistaken for meaning oily or shiny. In reality, dewey refers to the look of natural skin with no makeup on it. It is the best choice for a woman over 40. 3. Powder: The devil in the dust. a. I won’t say all powder is bad, but it takes a soft hand to make it work after 40. Makeup artists are adept at accomplishing the desired end result. Your client probably doesn’t have the advantage of a personal stylist, but somehow they have to make it work. Be smart and take away the snag in the equation. Only use a finishing powder if it is absolutely necessary.
Tim Maurer, president and creator of Mukha Custom Cosmetics and Mukha Essentials, is an internationally renowned makeup artist with more than 20 years of experience as a master esthetician. Driven by his passion for the art of makeup and the allure of healthy skin, Maurer’s mission is to raise the bar on the knowledge and application of makeup at today’s leading spas. Contact him at tmaurer@mukhaessentials.com or visit mukhaessentials.com.
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photo: Wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com
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youth beyond the years
4. Color choices: “It takes a lot of money to look this cheap.” - Dolly Parton a. While I personally think Ms. Parton’s look works well for her, it doesn’t translate very well to the general public. Many women go too far with color as they watch the inevitable fading of their natural glow. Lip color seems to drain away too, along with the plump pout. Eye shades go grayer or ashy. Brows become sparse, and often almost non-existent. Logic would seem to suggest using more vibrant, clear jewel tones on the lips. Use shades that contrast with the eye color to illuminate the tone, and gently define the brow with a shade that is one hue lighter than the actual hair color. If you want to add a decade to your client’s face, simply apply an enhancing product to the brow that is too dark. 5. Language: Words can be life changing; make sure the change you bring about is positive. Your client is well aware of her age and its subsequent issues. There is no need to point them out. Don’t say this: “If you contour your jawline, we can hide the drooping chin.” Instead, try: “Every girl needs a lift! By shading this area, you can detract the eye from [name her issue of concern].” In conclusion, remember that you will be in the same place as your mature clients sooner than you think. With age brings wisdom. Genuine generosity of spirit will help keep your own collagen kicking. Your clients will appreciate your candor, suggestions and professionalism. Brighten every client’s day, and don’t sell them anything that they don’t need. n
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personality
DO YOU EVER GET AN IMPRESSION OF SOMEONE’S personality just by looking at their nails? For example, when you notice someone’s perfect French manicure, do you think that she is confident and sophisticated? Likewise, if you notice that someone’s nails are adorned with a colorful polkadot mani, do you get the impression that she has a spunky and outgoing disposition? Whether they are glammed up with sparkly polish or left plain and unadorned, nails can say a lot about a person. With all of today’s polish and décor options, there are countless ways that someone can make an impression via their nails. This may make you wonder, what do my nails say about me? And what do my clients’ nail art requests say about them? This list will help you discover the effect that your nail artistry has on people’s first impressions of your clients. Based on their requests, it can also help you to decipher something about their personalities!
4. PINK POLISH Pink polishes tell others that your client has a flirty and feminine personality. Polish their nails with pink hues when they say they want to show off a sweet and girly side! continues
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1. RED NAILS Perfectly polished, fire engine red nails convey that your client is daring, outgoing and highly confident. They will probably wear these out to the club to show off their diva side! 2. DARK BLUE AND BLACK NAILS These shades tell others that your client is outgoing and lives on the wild side. Nails painted this shade give off the impression that your client has an adrenaline-filled lifestyle, and lives in a world filled with constant excitement!
Page 110 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
photo: Alexandra Landet/Shutterstock.com
NAIL ARTISTRY BY KATIE SAXTON
3. NAIL DECALS AND WRAPS Adorning your client’s nails with fun decals like rhinestones and wraps with designs like cheetah print or lace tells others that they are trendy, fashionable and fun! Decorate your clients’ nails with wraps and fun adornments when they want to garner attention at their favorite nighttime hotspots!
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #316 on reader service card
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5. MULTICOLORED POLKA-DOT MANI A colorful polka-dot manicure tells others that your client is spunky and high spirited. Decorate their nails with this style when they want to be noticed at a concert or dance party! 6. COLORFUL STILETTO NAILS Loved by fashion icons Lady Gaga and Beyoncé, colorful stiletto nails convey to others that your client is a diva with attitude. It is perfect for celebrities who want the paparazzi snapping pictures wherever they go! 7. NUDE POLISH Clear and nude polishes tell others that your client is laid back and has an easygoing persona. Natural hues give off the impression that someone is relaxed and enjoys the little things in life. 8. NEON NAIL POLISHES Polishes in neon pink, green, purple, orange and yellow hues let others know that your client is an outgoing extrovert that loves a good party! 9. UNPOLISHED, UNADORNED NAILS Leaving one’s nails as they are lets others know that the person is confident and unstressed about their appearance. 10. CHIPPED POLISH When people see chipped nail polish, they can tell that the person lives a busy lifestyle and doesn’t have a lot of time to relax. Advise your clients that if they notice their polish is chipped, they should immediately come to you for a new manicure to get their nails primped and ready for the spotlight again!
11. WATER MARBLE DESIGNS Adorning your clients’ nails with intricate and colorful water marble designs tells others that they have a creative imagination! Choose this style when your clients want to show off an artistic side! 12. SPARKLY POLISH Dazzling polishes featuring glitter and small, shiny sequins tells others that your client is confident, fashionable and fun! Use flashy and eye-catching glitter polishes when your clients want to turn heads wherever they go! Fun, engaging nail polish and designs are continuing to gain popularity. By offering artistic flirty and fashionable styles to fit your clients’ personalities, you are able to customize their polish and also get to know them better. Clients will rave about your artwork, and you will find yourself consistently booked! n Nail design and photos courtesy of Diane Moran Graham. Colorful stiletto nail design (#6) courtesy of Jada Ayala. Katie Saxton is the founder of Custom Nail Solutions. She is a renowned blogger and a regular contributor to television, radio, print and online media on the topics of nail beauty, nail care and nail trends. Custom Nail Solutions is a revolutionary artificial nail product offering custom nails that fit each individual’s unique nail beds. They are reusable, chemical-free and guaranteed to last a lifetime. Find out more at CustomNailSolutions.com.
Page 112 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
THIS SEASON, MAKEUP ARTIST PAMELA TAYLOR CREATES COLOR COMBINATIONS DESIGNED TO ENHANCE. THE FORECAST INCLUDES HINTS OF “CATLIKE” EYELINER AND A PALETTE OF COLORS THAT ARE FASHION CLASSICS.
OPPOSITES
ATTRACT PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAREN THOMAS
ALL FOUNDATION PRODUCTS COURTESY OF PRO-BASE, SKIN CANVAS.
FOREVER FUCHSIA. A MONOCHROMATIC COLOR PALETTE APPLIED IN DIFFERENT LEVELS AND TEXTURES ENHANCE THE LIPS, EYES AND CHEEKS.
ALL COLOR COURTESY OF THE PRO PALETTE.
BLENDS OF PALE TO DEEP GOLDEN SHADOWS ARE APPLIED TO THE LIDS, SURROUNDED BY AN OUTWARD SWEEP OF BLACK VIOLET EYELINER.
A BERRY BLEND. RED, BLUE AND WHITE PIGMENT SHADOWS ARE MIXED TO A BERRY SHADE, THEN GLOSSED TO HIGHLIGHT. THE MID TO UPPER LIDS ARE APPLIED IN A MATTE TEXTURE, AND UPWARD THROUGH THE BROW.
OPPOSITES ATTRACT. MIMICKING THE SILVER HIGHLIGHT AND BRIGHTENING THE BLUE OF ROMANA’S EYE, MATTE ORANGE EYELINER IS APPLIED TO THE LID. LIPS ARE TINTED IN A COORDINATING SHADE.
A CUSTOM MIXED HUE OF PURE MATTE VIOLET SHADOW IS APPLIED TO ENHANCE THE GOLDEN GREEN COLOR OF KELSEY’S EYES.
HAIR: TODOR AT BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, NEW YORK. SPECIAL THANKS TO MIKE KAHOUD, PARK AVE, INTERIORS NY.
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OPPOSITES ATTRACT BEAUTY PAGE BY PAMELA TAYLOR
This season, the focus is on shimmering highlights and colorful pigments. On the runway, luminous eyes are the statement. Dominant shimmer pigments in gold, copper and silver are used to highlight facial features, combined with splashes of pure color. Smokey liners in a cat-like sweep can be used for the finishing touch! PAGE 113: Citrus inspiration. Yellow-green shadow is mixed and applied to the eyelids. Brows are brushed in a deeper auburn shade, then set with a copper highlight gel. Lips are stained with a pink/violet shade. PAGE 114: Feeling fuchsia. Different levels and textures of fuchsia pink are applied to lips, eyes and cheeks. A monochromatic application enhances the surrounding fabric shade. PAGE 115: Shimmering highlights of pure gold water base shadow shimmer the lids. Cheeks are contoured using a bronze base; lips are color washed in a sheer red-violet stain.
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PAGE 116: Water-resistant. All makeup is applied using the Hydration Technique. This story was photographed with the model wearing water foundations, and shadows are color washed. Foundation is custom blended and applied wet. PAGE 117: Luminous. Skin is highlighted in sheer silver on the eyes, complementing the silver highlights in the eye color; lids are washed with a silver highlight. A stroke of cat–like liner wedges the lid in pure orange. PAGE 118: A matte violet shadow brightens the golden green shimmer of the eye. Eyebrows are color enhanced using a shimmer shadow in dark auburn, and then brushed upward to set. Cheeks are stained in a pink-violet crème color, and lips are tinted to coordinate. n
Pamela Taylor is an internationally recognized makeup artist and educator based in New York City. Call 212.620.5792 or visit makeupartist.co for more information.
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by Diane Moran Graham
image| fan brush mani thinly, and the coverage capabilities of your polishes are especially important.
MANY WOMEN ARE WILLING to spend their hard earned money on accessories to match whatever outfit they are wearing, whether it is a daytime office look or something special for a night out. They consider the right makeup, bag and shoes essential to completing a finished, put together look. The same can hold true for whatever a woman wears on her nails. Coordinating fashion and manicures really makes an outfit stand out. After all, every woman in the room is going to be wearing shoes, jewelry and carrying a purse. Not all of them will be showing off a one-of-akind manicure. Communicate with your clients. Let them know you can coordinate their nails for those special events, interviews and with their wardrobe! Opportunities are often missed because clients do not know what type of nail artistry is available.
How to achieve the look For this coordinated look, you will need a base color, and two or more colors that can contrast with your base. If you go with a very dark base, you will want to use an opaque polish that is bright enough to stand out when it is applied. This application method brushes polish on
toward the center. Once you have your color dragged in lines to the center,
If you want the colors to blend or bleed into each other, choose a lighter base and use contrast colors that are more sheer. As you add contrast, the colors underneath can blend and show a completely different color.
You’ll also need a fan brush for applying the colors on top of the basecoat. Paint the nails with the base color, two coats for full coverage, and then add a topcoat so that the base color does not blend with your contrast colors. Place a few drops of the first contrast color on a paper plate or piece of tin foil. Dip just the edges of your fan brush in the polish, and then tap the brush onto your plate or foil to remove a bit of the polish. You don’t want the fan brush to deposit big spots of color on the nail. You are looking for delicate lines of color across the nail. Starting from the outside of the nail, drag the bristles of the fan brush across the nail
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repeat the process from the opposite side of the nail. You can repeat t h e p ro c e s s with the same color to fill in any portions of the nail that don’t have the line coverage where you want it. After the first contrast color is fully dry, go through the same process with the other colors you have chosen. Once your contrast colors are on the nail, you can go back to using the fan brush with the base color. You may want to do this if you feel that not enough of the original color is showing. Finish it off with a topcoat. continues
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photos: Shutterstock.com
simple strokes tutorial
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image|fan brush mani
For a different look, try placing the lines diagonally or vertically, or just do one accent nail at a different angle.
If you want the colors to blend or bleed into each other, choose a lighter base and use contrast colors that are more sheer. As you add contrast, the colors underneath can blend and show a completely different color (e.g., a sheer yellow placed over a blue creates bits of green stripes). Because the colors don’t line up perfectly over one another, there will still be yellow and blue stripes along with your “homemade” green.
For a different look, try placing the lines diagonally or vertically, or just do one accent nail at a different angle. A fan brush manicure is simple, fun and has endless possibilities. Create a design that suits the season, your client’s mood or their outfit on any given day. n Nail photos courtesy of Diane Moran Graham. Diane Moran Graham’s artistic skills have been featured both online and in print magazines. Her work can be found via her Facebook page, Polish Sickness and her blog, polishsickness. blogspot.com. Contact her at graham555@ charter.net or 906.280.0707.
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Page 122 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
Plaintiff Jenny Howell of Milton, FL was granted a jury award of $2 million in a lawsuit against Regal Nails Salon and Spa, LLC for a permanent injury she suffered due to a technician’s inappropriate use of a callus remover. The product was left on the skin for too long, resulting in widespread, painful blister formation and damage, as well as nerve damage in Howell’s feet. Howell needed to have a spinal stimulator implanted in order to help her ambulate and accomplish minimal weight bearing tasks. Robert Spalding, D.P.M. and industry consultant and educator Janet McCormick, co-owners of Medinail Learning Centers, testified as industry experts on behalf of Howell. Their testimony pointed out the failure of the technician to follow instructions for the product, and the language barrier between the technician and client, which played a role in the incident. The jury found that Regal negligiently trained and/or supervised their franchisee. medinail.com
DELIGHTFULLY IRRESISTIBLE Icing Sugar, the fall/ winter 2013 makeup collection from Arabesque, flatters the face with sugary sweet pastels. Eyes are a blend of soft, feminine hues; lips look subdued yet seductive, and nails gleam in light taupe or icy pink. This creates a light and airy impression, giving the cold months a touch of sweetness and romance. grandel.com 866.693.7006 (W) 888.845.1191 (SW/MW/NE/SE)
October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
PERFECT COVER The new Creme Concealer Stick from Lady Burd® Cosmetics is an easy-to-blend formula that glides smoothly on the lips and dries to a matte finish, perfectly matching one’s skin tone and hiding imperfections, says the company. ladyburd.com 800.345.3448
PINK DUO For the fifth year in a row, HydroPeptide® is supporting women undergoing cancer treatment by donating proceeds from sales of the HydroPeptide Pink Kit to the Look Good...Feel Better program. The Pink Kit beautifies the eyes and lips with HydroPeptide’s awardwinning Eye Anti-Wrinkle Dark Circle Concentrate and Lip Plumper Fuller Smoother. HydroPeptide also donates the time of the company’s in-house estheticians to teach Look Good...Feel Better workshops. hydropeptide.com 800.932.9873 lookgoodfeelbetter.org
IMAGENEWS
GROUNDBREAKING INJURY VERDICT
NAILS, MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS
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WEST | CENTRAL | EAST REGIONAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
LEARN ON LOCATION
West OCTOBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424.
Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.
OCTOBER 6 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 13 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 14 Acne, Hyperpigmentation and Peel Education Seminar by Vivant Skin Care. Pasadena, CA. 800.9.VIVANT. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 20 OCTOBER 12 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Santa Barbara, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Page 124 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
West Central East International
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 28
NOVEMBER 10
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Long Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 21 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Santa Barbara, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 27 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Long Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
NOVEMBER 2 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 24
NOVEMBER 3
Central
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150.
OCTOBER 6 NOVEMBER 3-4 2-Day “Skin-Tensive” Training by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 125
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS OCTOBER 7
OCTOBER 28
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 13 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 14 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 20 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Austin, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 21 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Austin, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 3 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Birmingham, AL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 10 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Baton Rouge, LA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 17 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
East
OCTOBER 27
OCTOBER (ONGOING)
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.
Page 126 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.
OCTOBER 27
NOVEMBER 3
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
O OCTOBER 6
OCTOBER 27-28
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Ann Arbor, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Nashville, TN. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines. Philadelphia, PA. 800.471.0229.
OCTOBER 7 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 20 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 21 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
OCTOBER 28 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 10 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Cincinnati, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 28-30 Become an Esthetic Superstar! Skin Science From the Lab, Facial Massage & Anti-Aging Treatments by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 17 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. West Palm Beach, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 127
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Baltimore, MD. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Pensacola, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Philadelphia, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Pittsburgh, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 24
ONLINE EDUCATION
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Philadelphia, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boca Raton, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 25 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 14 Accent Services by Bio-Therapeutic. Webinar held at 11 a.m., PST. bio-therapeutic.com/events.html
NOVEMBER 4 Age Specified Services: Target Your Services, Target Your Bottom Line by Bio-Therapeutic. Webinar held at 11 a.m., PST. bio-therapeutic.com/events.html
ONGOING A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities An In-Depth Look at Melasma by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Addressing Adolescent Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Customizing Daily Care Regimens by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Diminishing Deep Wrinkling by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. hydropeptide.com/webinars
Page 128 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
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Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Investigating Impaired Barrier Function by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Product Formulations as a Whole by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Shedding Light on UV-induced Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses October 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Simple Steps to a Booming Business by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Targeting Adult Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses The Daily Care Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses The Professional Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
National Esthetic Teacher Training Sponsored by NCEA Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) October 26, 2013 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229
TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2014 April 6-7 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2014 May 4-5 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014 September 7-8 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014 October 19-20 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229
LNEONLINE.com • Page 129
advertisers’ index Page Number
Reader Service No.
5................. A Natural Difference................................................. anaturaldifference.com.................................................. 232 8................. Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts............................ arcskincare.com.............................................................. 120 49............... Athena..................................................................... athenabeauty.com.......................................................... 162 77............... Beautiful Image....................................................... beautifulimagellc.com.................................................... 183 105............. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................. 180 75............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................ 140 6,89............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 109............. BioBliss.................................................................... biobliss.com................................................................... 173 100............. Biomani................................................................... biomaniskincare.com..................................................... 276 91............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................ 335 29............... Christina.................................................................. shop.christina-usa.com................................................... 107 15............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... circadia.com................................................................... 101 31............... Clear fx.................................................................... clearfxskin.com............................................................... 332 20............... Control Corrective................................................... controlcorrective.com.................................................... 272 43............... Cosmetiques France Laure..................................... francelaure.com.............................................................. 199 132............. Darphin................................................................... darphin.com................................................................... .159 47............... DermAware............................................................. dermaware.com............................................................. 256 93............... Dr. Grandel.............................................................. grandel-usa.com............................................................ 109 71............... Dr. Jeff..................................................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... .248 33............... Edge Systems........................................................... HydraFacial.com............................................................ 201 2-3,11.........Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 18................Enspri...................................................................... enspriskincare.com.......................................................... 318 131............. Equipro................................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 69............... GrandeLASH-MD.................................................... grandewholesale.com...................................................... 286 51............... Hairmax.................................................................... hairmaxsalons.com......................................................... 285 90............... Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................. halecosmeceuticals.com................................................ 133 107............. Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 27............... Image Skincare........................................................ imageskincare.com.......................................................... 178 35............... Innovative Skincare................................................. innovativeskincare.com.................................................... 240 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................ladyburd.com................................................................. 119 9................. Le Mieux.......................................................................lemieuxcosmetics.com................................................... 294 121............. Lôngmi Lashes by Daniel............................................longmilashes.com.......................................................... 322 39............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................lucrece.com.................................................................... .263 79............... Meg 21/Dynamis..........................................................meg21.com.................................................................... 344 111............. Nature Pure Labs.................................................... naturepure.com.............................................................. 316 61............... Osmosis Skincare.........................................................osmosisskincare.com...................................................... 111 65............... PCA Skin.......................................................................pcaskin.com................................................................... 110 85............... Poo-Pourri......................................................................poopourri.com............................................................... 219 86............... Professional Program Insurance Brokerage...................medispa-ins.com............................................................ 208 87............... Rapidlash......................................................................rapidlash.com................................................................. 224 99............... Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 95............... Rhonda Allison.............................................................rhondaallison.com.......................................................... 190 60............... Saian........................................................................ saian.net......................................................................... 165 37............... Satin Smooth............................................................ satinsmooth.com............................................................ 304 82............... Select Spa Source..................................................... selectspa.com................................................................ 253 46............... Sesha Skin Therapy................................................... seshaskin.com................................................................ 271 17............... Shira......................................................................... shiraesthetics.com.......................................................... 249 7................. Silhouet-Tone USA.................................................... silhouettone.us............................................................... 192 104............. Skin Blends.....................................................................skinblends.com.............................................................. 283 38............... Sranrom..........................................................................sranrom.us...................................................................... 207 83............... Szép Élet/ilike.................................................................szepelet.com.................................................................. 274 64............... Tecniche.........................................................................tecniche.com.................................................................. 153 122............. Teka Fine Line Brushes, Inc............................................tekabrushonline.com...................................................... 195 19............... Vitelle.............................................................................vitellelab.com................................................................. 206 45............... Wilma Schumann...........................................................wilmaschumann.com...................................................... 106 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
Page 130 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2013
PLEASE VISIT US AT THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA, PHILADELPHIA, PA AT BOOTHS 201, 203, 205, 300, 302 AND 304 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242
A few precious drops will change your skin. And your mind. Seems everyone who tries Darphin Essential Oil Elixirs calls it her new miracle skin product – and with good reason. Crafted with essential plant oils, they instantly melt into skin to quickly remedy your most pressing need – without any afterfeel. Choose your best formula to hydrate dry skin, calm sensitive skin, energize tired looking skin, renew aging skin’s youthful radiance or subdue oily shine (yes, even subdue oily shine). And the aromas are positively divine.
PURIFYING Niaouli Elixir for oily skin
ENERGIZING
Tangerine Elixir for tired skin
ANTI-AGING 8-Flower Elixir for aging skin
HYDRATING Rose Elixir for dry skin
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CALMING
Chamomile Elixir for sensitive skin