LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals
January 2014
$7.50
Industry Leaders in Keeping the Planet Green. Éminence offers products with the highest organic standards worldwide including USDA Certified Organic, ingredients certified by Demeter International – the only global certifier of Biodynamic® products – and Biokontroll Hungaria. Éminence cares about the planet from harvest to production, packaging to delivery. We are committed to being the “Greenest Company in Town” with the following initiatives: Wind and Solar Powered Manufacturing, Sustainable Farming Practices, Handmade Products, Recyclable Packaging, Vegetable Inks in Printing, Recycled Paper in Outer Packaging, Biodegradable Corn-Based Packing Materials, Green Warehouse Practices, Hybrid and Biodiesel Car Deliveries, Green Transportation Support for our Staff, Green Community
NENC MI
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Supporter, Tree Planting Initiatives, Green Spa Program, ISO 90001/2001 Certified Manufacturing.
G AN IC
Boldijarre Koronczay President and Master Trainer If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning organic skin care line, call 1-888-747-4787 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.
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= The good news is, we will plant it for you. We have taken our commitment to the environment to a whole new level with our tree planting initiative, Forests for the Future. For every product purchased, we will plant a tree by joining forces with Trees for the Future. Visit www.eminenceorganics.com for more information.
THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1958
Toll-Free 1-888-747-6342 info@eminenceorganics.com | www.eminenceorganics.com ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE PROVIDER OF PREMIUM SKIN C ARE
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CONTENTS JANUARY 2 0 1 3
skin
VOLUME 29
N U M BE R 1
Crystal, Diamonds and Roses 21 Love the Skin and the Soul 24 Intimate Area Discoloration 30 Proven Vs. Unproven 33 The Outside In and the Inside Out 36 Skin News 39
Love the Skin and the Soul page 24
Growing Young Together anti-aging treatments for couples page 76
business
Spa-Goer Personalities 65 The Welcome Wagon 66 Nurturing, the New Luxury in Spa 70 Out With the Old 72 Growing Young Together 76 Spa Economics for 2014 79 Clarifying the Confusion About Workers’ Compensation 81 Your Business, Your Way! 84 Successful Annual Marketing Strategies! 88 Biz News 91
extras
From the Editor 6 The Greenbrier Spa at The Greenbrier 9 Your Valentine’s Day Retail Gift Guide 44 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers’ Index 130
Luminous Body Treatments for the New Year page 56
spa
Your Spa Menu Message 43 Romance and the Spa 50 Luminous Body Treatments for the New Year 56 Ready or Not, It’s Flu Season! 60 Spa News 63
organic & wellness Wellness Tourism Trends 94 Eyes so Bright 96 Beauty, Bling and Balance 100 Organic & Wellness News 103
Beauty, Bling and Balance treatments and tools page 100
image
Pump up the Volume! 106 All That Glitters 107 Skin Tone Color Matching 109 New Year, New Nails 112 The Golden Foot Treatment 116 Step by Step 119 Image News 121
The Golden Foot Treatment page 116
Cover courtesy of Hair Coif Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
Page 4 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
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from the
EDITOR
what’s your T accent...
Forward Thinking Always.
Call Today to Find Your accent.
HE FIRST ISSUE OF 2014 FOR LNE & SPA IS ALL about luxury and romance! Make a big impression on your clients with services that exceed their expectations. Enjoy this edition filled with features on the latest glamorous products, Valentine’s Day treatments and amorous spa escapes! As a therapist, having multiple licenses enables you to offer additional treatments for your guests and increase revenue. Lashes are becoming an increasingly important service to offer at a spa. Nail services continue to gain momentum, both in the media and with clients. Be creative, but always offer a quality service. As a seasoned spa industry, we have learned that get rich quick fads are no longer trendy. Experience, quality services, technicians and loyal employees are the brick and mortar of a business. When a facility has a strong foundation, it is not easily swayed to make foolish and impromptu decisions, and will flourish successfully. The January Spa of the Month, The Greenbrier Spa of West Virginia, was built in 1778, and serves as a shining example of excellence by preserving the past and staying relevant in an ever evolving industry. While it is important to offer new services and treatments, take the time to do research and listen to your team’s choice of products and treatments. Their input is important, since they are the ones that will be working with clients daily. Make sure your team is properly educated on the new treatments and services. Often, new treatments are improperly done because the training was rushed or the technician did not have a complete understanding of the protocol, leading to client disappointment. Retail is an essential component of every spa, and this month’s Valentine’s Day Retail Guide photo feature is filled with beautiful products for your shelves. Package products with eyecatching displays and couple them together with treatments or gift certificates! Your brand promise and commitment to services and satisfaction will create client loyalty and longevity for your business! n Wishing you all the very best success. —Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com
REV100313
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N N
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N N N N
the total
N N O O package
Epidermal growth factor combined with a new generation peptide strengthens skin and improves elasticity in the new Total Strength Serum from PCA SKINŽ. A youthful appearance is within reach when you provide your patients with Total Strength Serum – the ideal multi-action anti-aging product to tighten, strengthen and firm.
Experience this dynamic product by calling 877.PCA.SKIN [722.7546] or visiting pcaskin.com.
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller denise@lneonline.com Art Director Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Fougere ache@lneonline.com
C-OXYZYME The ultimate corrective treatment for uneven, hyperpigmented and photo-damaged skin
C-Oxyzyme Brightening Facial Melding state-of-the-art skin refiners with tried-andtrue change ingredients, this multilayered treatment contains the perfect balance of glycolic, lactic, malic, azelaic and phytic acids; retinol; nontoxic botanical brighteners; super vitamin C; powerful enzymes; hyaluronic acid; minerals and sun protection factors. WITH YOUR PURCHASE OF PROFESSIONAL KIT – RECEIVE COMPLIMENTARY BSB FIRM & GLOW SERUM PROMO CODE LNEJAN CALL BEFORE JANUARY 31, 2014
Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato
Contributors Goldie Bonnell Nina Curtis Susanna DiSotto Jerry Doorhy Kelly FultonKendrick Su Gibson Diane Graham Ryan Hanigan Karen Hodges
Camille Hoheb Alison Howland Anne Jensen Joseph Mandato Annie Mayo Melissa McMahon Danne Montague-King Antoinette Muirhead Larry Oskin Douglas Preston Ivar E. Roth, D.P.M., M.P.H.
Nicole Rouse Robert Sachs Katia Sandoval Katie Saxton Mara Shorr Louis Silberman David Suzuki Carol Trow, B.S.N. Rob Trow Mary Turner
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977
www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com
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Page 8 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
SPA
OF THE MONTH
A HISTORIC AMERICAN SPA RETREAT THE GREENBRIER SPA AT THE GREENBRIER WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, WV
by Melissa McMahon
SINCE 1778, TRAVELERS AND RELAXATION seekers from around the country have been traveling to White Sulphur Springs in the foothills of West Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains to “take the waters” of the natural healing springs. The Greenbrier Spa at The Greenbrier, the storied American resort that has been hosting luxury travelers, royalty and dignitaries from around the world for more than a century, continues that tradition of curative treatment and wellness today
The 40,000-square-foot Greenbrier Spa, the only Forbes Five-Star Mineral Spa in the world, incorporates the native sulphur springs as a central element in its worldclass signature spa treatments. in its state-of-the-art facilities. The 40,000-squarefoot Greenbrier Spa, the only Forbes Five-Star Mineral Spa in the world, incorporates the native sulphur springs as a central element in its world-class signature spa treatments. There are a total of 75 employees at the spa, including 42 massage therapists, 13 cosmetologists/estheticians/manicurists, 10 concierges, six locker room attendants, one administrative assistant, one group coordinator and two spa managers. When recruiting new team members, the biggest factor that management at Greenbrier Spa looks for in its candidates is a genuine kindness and passion for serving others. The team at Greenbrier is encouraged to seek any and all opportunities to fulfill even the unexpressed wishes and needs of the guests, thus creating memories that last a lifetime. 4
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 9
spa of the month|the greenbrier spa at the greenbrier
The spa’s public spaces and lounging rooms have long been one of the most popular amenities available to guests of the Greenbrier. These areas boast the signature interior décor of legendary hotel designer Dorothy Draper. The Greenbrier Spa offers a full deluxe menu of signature spa treatments, including a wide variety of massage techniques (including aromatherapy, hot stone, reflexology, deep tissue, Swedish and Ayurvedic massage), facials, masks, anti-aging treatments, waxes, body wraps and scrubs, all incorporating elements of the natural surroundings and the destination’s renowned spring waters. The spa’s public spaces and lounging rooms have long been one of the most popular amenities available to guests of the Greenbrier. These areas boast the signature interior décor of legendary hotel designer Dorothy Draper. Inside, the spa features numerous deluxe spa treatment rooms, including some with special soaking tubs equipped with natural sulphur waters for a Greenbrier Sulphur Soak, a key component of many of the spa’s signature treatments. The Greenbrier Spa is also comprised of a nail salon, specializing in deluxe manicures and pedicures for adult men and women, as well as young adult spa-goers, and a steam room and sauna. continues
Page 10 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
Spice up your fall with a range of refreshing HydroPeptide® peels and masks to leave skin bright, nourished, smooth, and looking years younger. Blueberries, apples, citrus fruits, and pumpkin create a range of exfoliating intensities to customize the perfect peel experience with no “downtime.” Skin will be left glowing and more even. HydroPeptide also offers a series of masks to clarify, rejuvenate, and balance skin, each delivering refreshing, rejuvenating peptides and vitamins to minimize fine lines and wrinkles. With combinations to nourish, hydrate, and brighten, HydroPeptide’s award-winning and scientifically advanced skin care elements can address a wide range of complexion concerns in just a few steps. Give your clients visible results while increasing your bottom line with HydroPeptide.
the perfect
FACIAL
for any
SEASON Call to discuss the perfect seasonal facial.
800.932.9873 www.hydropeptide.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #278
spa of the month|the greenbrier spa at the greenbrier
The Greenbrier Spa is offering guests some appropriately wintry treatment options to get them through the colder months pampered and in style. Just outside the central spa area sits The Greenbrier’s historic indoor pool, which recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. It features an elegant canopied ceiling and beautiful mosaic tile work. Guests of The Greenbrier Spa also have access to the fitness center, equipped with the latest Precor and Cybex cardio equipment,
along with free weights, medicine balls, mats and body bars. Guests can join regularly scheduled group fitness classes, or arrange one-on-one, group or “his and hers” training sessions with The Greenbrier Spa’s certified fitness professionals.
The Greenbrier Spa signature services Capitalizing on the resort and spa’s extraordinary location in the foothills of West Virginia’s majestic Allegheny Mountains and surrounded by the curative waters of the natural sulphur springs, The Greenbrier Spa’s signature services offer guests maximum relaxation and healing. The Greenbrier Treatment (50 or 80 minutes) The ultimate Greenbrier Spa treatment takes guests through a full hydrotherapy journey, beginning with a relaxing and detoxifying soak in the natural, native sulphur waters. The soak is followed by an invigorating session in the Swiss Shower and Scotch Spray to break up cellular blockages. And continues
continues
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MIAMI BEACH, FL APRIL 6 & 7, 2014
Miami Beach Convention Center
Embrace your industry Learn, Network, Grow
• General Session Lectures and Demos • Wellness Seminar NEW • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Spa Director Symposium NEW • Image Seminars
• Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • AIA-Aesthetics International Association • Medical facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors
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NEW
spa of the month|the greenbrier spa at the greenbrier
The Greenbrier, with its more than 10,000 acres of private West Virginia wilderness, offers a wealth of opportunities for mindful relaxation. finally, the guest is soothed and relaxed with either a 25 or 50-minute Swedish massage treatment to complete The Greenbrier journey. The Detox Kur (80 minutes) This detoxifying and curative experience at The Greenbrier Spa commences with a deep soak, followed by a Swiss Shower and Scotch Spray. To draw the toxins from the body, the guest is then wrapped with a special botanical mud wrap that restores the skin’s balance and elasticity. And the experience is capped off with an enriching 25-minute massage treatment. Mineral Mountain Kur (80 minutes) Infused with the natural minerals that comprise the area’s healing natural springs, the Mineral Mountain Bath kicks off this treatment, followed by a botanical-infused body scrub to revitalize dry skin, and a petite massage. Golfer’s Game Saver (50 minutes) In honor of The Greenbrier’s rich history associated with the game of golf (and its three championship golf courses on property), the Golfer’s Game Saver treatment begins with a relaxing and healing sulphur soak. The treatment then incorporates a Swiss Shower and Scotch Spray, followed by warm heat packs (using the extremes of cold and heat to alleviate muscle pain). This continues
continues
Page 16 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
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Valentine’s escape
The romantic journey begins with a butter brulée whole milk soak infused with sweet almond oil, followed by a side-byside couples massage featuring seasonal notes of sweet cinnamon and clove.
signature Greenbrier Spa service wraps up with a concentrated sports massage.
Cupid’s Couples Retreat (80 minutes for two) The Greenbrier is the ultimate lovers’ escape, especially in the wintertime, when couples can snuggle up next to cozy wood fires, enjoy romantic horse-drawn sleigh rides around the resort’s 10,000 acres of wilderness, and indulge in romantic dinners for two at one of the resort’s fine dining restaurants. And what better way to truly pamper themselves than to book this spa retreat for Valentine’s Day? The romantic journey begins with a butter brulée whole milk soak infused with sweet almond oil, followed by a side-by-side couples massage featuring seasonal notes of sweet cinnamon and clove. The whole experience is capped, in over-the-top decadent Greenbrier fashion, with a glass of champagne and fresh chocolatecovered strawberries.
Special seasonal offerings
Exclusive body care products
In celebration of The Greenbrier as a truly allseasons resort destination, The Greenbrier Spa is offering guests some appropriately wintry treatment options to get them through the colder months pampered and in style. And to fête Valentine’s Day this February, The Greenbrier Spa has crafted a special lovers’ retreat, complete with champagne and strawberries.
The minerals, oils and legendary healing waters of The Greenbrier’s native sulphur springs (to which legions of people have been flocking for centuries) are central to the essence of The continues
Winter wonderland escapes Hot Buttered Rum (80 minutes) After a long day exploring The Greenbrier’s wealth of wintertime activities—from ice skating to horsedrawn sleigh rides—guests can indulge with this journey, which commences with a creamy “butter brulée” whole milk soak in the mineral bath. The treatment continues with a full-body exfoliating scrub that incorporates brown sugar, premium aged rum and rice bran oil with a hint of butterscotch. This wintry escape wraps up with a caramel body milk lotion massage! Peppermint Bark Bliss Wrap (80 minutes) This winter escape begins with a relaxing warm bubble bath filled with seasonal scents of candy canes and celebratory champagne! A Swiss shower and scotch spray invigorates and breaks up any blockages, and a warm chocolate glaze mask envelopes guests in sweet relief. The treatment ends with a head-to-toe sweet cream body milk lotion massage.
AWARDS 2013 • Forbes Travel Guide, Five-Star Spas • Condé Nast Traveler, Top 100 Resort Spas
2012 • Forbes Travel Guide, FiveStar Spas • Condé Nast Traveler, Top 270 Spas • Condé Nast Traveler, Top 100 Resort Spas - U.S. Mainland
2010 • SpaFinder’s Top 10 Best Spas in the World • Spa Magazine’s 2010 Silver Sage Readers’ Choice Awards
Page 18 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
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spa of the month|the greenbrier spa at the greenbrier
alongside the peaceful Howard’s Creek. For a slightly more invigorating excursion, guests can also join one of 10 different guided group hikes, which are led by a Greenbrier fitness specialist, and can be tailored to individual interests, physical abilities and time preferences. True to its 18th century origins as a place of ultimate relaxation for people from far and wide to “take the waters” and achieve healing and peace, The Greenbrier Spa offers everything a spa-goer could dream of in a destination retreat. n
The Greenbrier: Beyond the spa
The Greenbrier Spa at The Greenbrier 300 West Main Street White Sulphur Springs, WV 24986
A relaxed escape at The Greenbrier, one of the most historic destination resorts and spas in America, does not end within the walls of The Greenbrier Spa. After guests have had the chance to properly de-stress, stretch, and be exfoliated, scrubbed and massaged to their pampered hearts’ content, The Greenbrier, with its more than 10,000 acres of private West Virginia wilderness, offers a wealth of opportunities for mindful relaxation. A “meditation trail” allows those seeking a quiet retreat to enjoy the majestic surroundings of The Greenbrier, nestled into the foothills of West Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains, and to amble
Melissa McMahon is the director of The Greenbrier Spa at The Greenbrier. Prior to joining The Greenbrier in early 2013, she served as the spa director at The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, and at Sense Spa at Rosewood Sand Hill in Menlo Park, CA. McMahon has also been a spa manager at The Spa at Stowe Mountain Lodge in Stowe, VT.
Page 20 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photos courtesy of The Greenbriar Spa at The Greenbriar
Greenbrier Spa experience. With the development of The Greenbrier Spa’s signature body care line, guests of The Greenbrier can now take home that bottled essence from their Greenbrier sojourn. The signature line, which incorporates spring water and a selection of all-natural ingredients that are indigenous to West Virginia, allows guests to continue the relaxing, rehydrating and revitalizing feelings from their Greenbrier Spa treatments at home. The line includes a bevy of products redolent of the area’s sweetgrass pine scent, including shampoo, conditioner, body wash, hand soap, body lotion, bath salts and a reed diffuser, as well as a special vanilla cedar hydrating mist.
skin
crystal, diamonds and roses
by Susanna DiSotto
MICRODERMABRASION HAS become a standard exfoliation treatment in all kinds of spas. With hundreds of system choices and treatment variations, how does a practitioner determine the best microdermabrasion system for his or her practice? When choosing a system, it is helpful to have an understanding of the technology as it was introduced more than two decades ago.
Aluminum oxide microdermabrasion Aluminum oxide is an extremely hard mineral, and crystal inhalation is a safety concern. For environmental safety, aluminum oxide crystals must be disposed of according to OSHA regulations to ensure that ground water is not contaminated by the waste. With the controversy surrounding both the health concerns and environmental safety of aluminum oxide crystals, there has been a move toward alternative microdermabrasion methods.
Microdermabrasion treatment price point: 15-minute light exfoliation, $45-50; 30-minute service, $75-85; 55-minute facial with add-on micro service, $120-135
the surface of the skin. A diamond-tipped wand is used to sand away the top level of the dermis, as the vacuum system simultaneously sucks away dirt, debris and dead cells. This method equally engages the body in the rejuvenation process by stimulating fibroblast activity. The result, however, is a safer, more comfortable treatment with a more predictable outcome. The versatility of this service relies on the quality of the machine used, and the technician’s own knowledge and technique.
tifully with a spa mission. High quality organic plant “grains” are a clean, safe and aromatic media that not only exfoliate the skin exceptionally well, but are more comfortable for the client. When considering a botanical medium, make sure the manufacturer uses whole, organic plants like rose, tea tree and lavender. The creation of the grains should include a heating process that eradicates all potential pollen or environmental allergens and contaminants. Additionally, the grains should retain a substantial scent, ensuring that the therapeutic essential oils remain active and can be deposited onto the skin during the exfoliation service.
The perfect match Do your research to find the best protocol and technique that will be a perfect match for your facility. Whether you are treating fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation or acne, a microdermabrasion service is a perfect rejuvenating treatment for any spa setting. n
Crystal microdermabrasion Aluminum oxide crystals wear away the surface of the skin using force and friction. The technician uses a hand-held device that sprays an adjustable pressured flow of aluminum oxide crystals onto the skin. Simultaneously, the machine vacuums away dirt, dead cells and used crystals. This combination of activity creates a certain level of heat, which, while exfoliating, also stimulates the body’s “wound healing” defenses. When this occurs, fibroblast activity is stimulated, producing a rejuvenating effect.
Liquid microdermabrasion
Diamond microdermabrasion
For those practitioners who prefer a crystal method, there are clean, safe options. Botanical medias, on the other hand, are an excellent alternative and align beau-
Instead of force, friction and heat, diamond microdermabrasion exfoliates by means of sanding, buffing or polishing January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Water soluble sodium bicarbonate is a far less abrasive alternative. This delivers the same pressure of exfoliation, suction and wetness from liquid solution or formula. It is excellent for clients with sensitive skin. With traditional microdermabrasion, a client’s skin may feel dry and even “hot,” but with a wet micro service the skin will be very hydrated, and less red and irritated.
Botanical grain microdermabrasion
photo of botanical grains courtesy of Satin Smooth (satinsmooth.com)
Susanna DiSotto is the director of Satin Smooth at Conair Corporation, where she is dedicated to providing innovative waxing and skin care products. Her educational background includes a degree from the Artistic Academy of Hair Design and Aesthetics. DiSotto was a successful business owner for 17 years before she decided to pursue her passion for both cosmetology and marketing. For more details, visit satinsmooth.com. LNEONLINE.com • Page 21
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DALLAS, TX
MAY 4 & 5, 2014
Arlington Convention Center
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• General Session Lectures and Demos • Wellness Seminar NEW • Medical facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar
NEW
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Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 • LNEONLINE.COM 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 • USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664
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love
THE SKIN AND THE SOUL BY KATIA SANDOVAL
Page 24 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
skin
SS
TRESS IS BEST DEFINED AS reaction to a threat, challenge or overload, and the uncertainty of whether or not we can cope with the pressure. Causes of stress are different for every person, and almost anything can cause it. Our response is also considered a stress. When we are stressed or faced with a challenging situation, the body activates resources that trigger our fight-or-flight response, which is our nervous system reacting to the stressful event. At this point the body produces larger quantities of the chemicals cortisol, adrenaline and nonadrenaline, which
Wraps, scrubs, the use of special ingredients, essential oils or crystals are just a few ways to de-stress, love the skin and feed the soul. trigger heightened alertness, muscle preparedness and sweating. While all resources are concentrated on breathing, blood flow, muscle use and alertness, other non-essential body functions slow down, such as the digestive and immune systems. In addition, blood pressure and heart rate increase, breathing becomes rapid, muscles get tense and we lose sleep. Physical effects of stress include body aches, pains, cramps, spasms and headaches, just to name a few.
ing wrinkles! Stress not only affects the body and skin, it also affects thoughts and feelings, making us feel anxious, fatigued, irritable, sad and focused on problems, to name a few. It also influences behavior, leading to food cravings, higher alcohol and tobacco consumption, depression and more. How many times have you had clients come to you complaining of sore muscles, aches and pains, headaches, fatigue and dehydration, with visible issues such as dark circles, acne, eczema, psoriasis, fine lines or wrinkles? How often do you analyze the skin and go immediately into clinical mode? Have you missed the core reason as to why they came to you? Many of these skin disorders arise or worsen during times of stress. Does your client know how stress can affect the body and skin? Your client and their skin needs your love and attention, through therapies, rituals or relaxation techniques such as massages, facials and body treatments. Wraps, scrubs, the use of special ingredients, essential oils or crystals are just a few ways to de-stress, love the skin and feed the soul. The power of touch is one great way to use your expertise to love the skin and heal the soul. To touch another human being in a compassionate, caring and nurturing way can be very healing. Hands-on massage therapies like cranial sacral, Swedish, aromatherapy, hot stone, Thai and reflexology are just a few, as well as facial massage and reiki. Incorporate essential oils to target difcontinues
photo: Gita Kulinitch Studio/Shutterstock.com
The effect of stress on skin The cortisol in our bloodstream tells the oil glands to increase production, which leads to breakouts. Stress also dilates blood vessels, causing redness and aggravating those who suffer from rosacea. Other side effects may also occur, such as skin becoming dehydrated, sensitive and more susceptible to damage, causing lines and worsen-
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 25
Using rituals such as herbal Thai ball massage, the aromatic herbs are tightly wrapped in an organic poultice that draws out toxins, stimulates blood flow and helps balance “Prana” flowing through the body.
ferent skin needs such as chamomile, juniper and eucalyptus. Reach for healing ingredients such as lavender, olive oil, sandalwood, shea nut butter and vanilla. Also use healing ingredients in your facial treatments as a solution for breakouts or
or scalp treatments. It can be a combination of things like acupuncture and massage. Use services such as platza massage, the unique and powerful ancient treatment that awakens the skin, relieves aches and pains and relaxes the mind, in addition
acneic skin. Great choices for this include lactic acid, algae or oils such as clove, pumpkin seed, tea tree or sage. For nurturing skin that is dry, hormonal, aging or inflicted with rosacea or eczema, use ylang ylang, kukui nut oil, shea butter, murumuru butter or aloe. Great ingredients for wrinkle repair include hyaluronic acid, vitamins A, C and E or green and white tea extract. Nurture your client with slow, relaxing movements while focusing on transmitting love, understanding and healing energies. Incorporate crystals like rose quartz, which induces self and unconditional love. Or use Chrysocolla, a bright green and blue crystal that heals, detoxifies and promotes love, as well as inner and outer beauty. For males, it creates a balance. Try Black Tourmaline crystal, a powerful grounding stone. Its supportive energy aligns the centers of the body and channels healing light throughout the body, promoting a sense of power and self-confidence, creating clarity and empowerment through challenges. Try techniques such as visualization, breathing techniques, hot/cold therapy, Ayurvedic treatments
to its aromatherapy benefits. Using rituals such as herbal Thai ball massage, the aromatic herbs are tightly wrapped in an organic poultice that draws out toxins, stimulates blood flow and helps balance “Prana” flowing through the body. It is very exotic and sublime! Always seal your treatments with love! For example, lemongrass essential oil acts as a detox and refreshes, indicating renewal or new beginnings; or you may want to use sound therapy like singing bowls to complete the service. Keep in mind that while you may not be able to fix your clients’ heartaches, you can always love their skin and calm their soul. n
Katia Sandoval is a licensed skin care therapist and founder of Luv Ya skincare. She provides the finest products and home care regimens for clients of every lifestyle, skin and body type, personalized for their unique needs, invigorating their well-being and allowing them to look and feel beautiful.
Page 26 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Liv Friis-Larsen/Shutterstock.com
skin|love the skin and the soul
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #201
PHRC
Professional Hair Removal Conference
MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA
Miami Beach Convention Center
April 5-7, 2014 All hair removal professionals welcome!
15 live continuing education hours are being offered at each event. Lectures on: • Industry Ethics • HIV and Other Bloodborne Pathogens • Upsale Opportunities and Retail Sales • Appointing a Laser Safety Officer • Endocrine System: Facts, Functions and Diseases • Hair Removal on Ethnic Skin • Specialized Insurance for the Laser Hair Removal and Electrology Industries • Laser and Electrolysis Updates To see the complete schedule for each event, visit www.phrconline.com.
Pre-Registration Recommended
The Professional Hair Removal Conference has expanded to two events in 2014!
ARLINGTON, TEXAS
Sheraton Arlington Hotel
May 3-5, 2014 $
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3-Day all-inclusive admission for each event:
Professional Hair Removal Conference General Assembly
Two-Day Ticket to The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa $350 for registrations after March 12th for Miami and after April 14th for Dallas.
Brought to you by:
Sponsored by:
www.phrconline.com or 800-961-3777
intimate area
DISCOLORATION photo: Sergey Mironov /Shutterstock.com
BY KELLY FULTON-KENDRICK
skin
Services and treatments THE TREND TO LIGHTEN INTIMATE AREAS IS BECOMing ever more popular and mainstream. The desire for eventoned genitalia started in the adult entertainment industry, and became more prevalent when Brazilian waxing uncovered areas that were darker than the rest of the body. It is in fact normal for the area around the anus and vagina to be darker. Genetics dictate how dark that area is, but aggravating factors such as hormones, pregnancy and trauma (waxing) can darken it further. These spots can be successfully lightened with a combination of professional treatments and guest compliance with home care recommendations. Professionals like Enrique Ramirez, the owner, member and spa service practitioner at face to face nyc, a day spa in New York City, added intimate bleaching to his menu after learning about it through the media. “We started offering this service in 2007 after an episode of a now defunct TV show that was filmed in California,” he says. “We figured it was something new, unique and excellent for marketing purposes to give our brand much needed publicity. To my surprise, after our article in Time Out New York and The Howard Stern Show, intimate bleaching became all the rage in New York City.” Other spa owners, like Rosanna Zayas of Rosanna Zayas Esthetic Center in Roslindale, MA began offering the service after a client requested it. “One day a client requested that treatment and I did it,” she says. “It worked perfectly.” At Skin Specialists Spa in Coral Gables, FL, intimate area discoloration is treated very effectively with a combination of at-home bleaching products and professional peels. During the initial client consultation, we discuss the client’s goals and expectations. “Don’t expect any fast changes with only one or two treatments, as hyperpigmentation is one of the toughest skin conditions to reverse,” Ramirez explains in regard to managing client expectations. “Most women sign up for a series of six treatments.”
If the client indicates a history of diabetes, lupus, psoriasis, herpes or genital warts, we inform them that we cannot perform the service, since the peel will aggravate these conditions. We then explain the process to the client before doing the physical examination of the area. Specifically, we review the skin history form with the client. If the client indicates a history of diabetes, lupus, psoriasis, herpes or genital warts, we inform them that we cannot perform the service, since the peel will aggravate these conditions. In addition, if the client has had recent procedures (surgical or non-surgical) performed in the area to be treated, those areas need to be completely healed prior to the peel. Finally, it is very important to review the client’s ethnic origin. Although a client appears to be a Fitzpatrick 2, they might have a grandparent that is a Fitzpatrick 4. This will show up as reactive hyperpigmentation if the client is not preconditioned for long enough. After the consultation, we ask the client to change into disposable underwear for the skin evaluation. The objective during the skin evaluation is to determine the Fitzpatrick skin type, tone of the dispigmentation (see pigmentation scale) and identify any signs of irritation that need to be healed before the peel. Wearing latex-free gloves, we evaluate the areas of concern. When you evaluate the labia majora and the inner thighs, your client should be lying flat on a bed, her leg in a bent position with her foot facing in. To evaluate the anus, perineum, inner buttocks and intergluteal cleft, have the client lie flat on their back and raise the knees to the chest and turn the soles of the feet in together. Or have them kneel with their forearms resting on the table. continues
FITZPATRICK SKIN TYPE
LENGTH OF PRECONDITIONING
Type I (very white or freckled)
1 - 2 weeks
Type II (white)
2 - 3 weeks
Type III (white to olive) & Type IV (brown)
4 - 6 weeks
Type V (dark brown) & Type V (black)
6 - 12 weeks
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 31
skin|intimate area discoloration
We instruct the client to apply the athome product to the affected area every other day to reduce irritation, and once the skin acclimates, to apply it daily. Based on the skin evaluation, we put the client on a preconditioning regimen for a period of time, taking into account their Fitzpatrick skin type and ethnic origin (see chart on page 31). For the best results, all Fitzpatrick skin types must precondition the area to be treated. Recommended ingredients for preconditioning include alpha-arbutin, azelaic acid, emblica extract, kojic acid, lactic acid, licorice root extract, mandelic acid, mulberry root extract and/or vitamin A. We instruct the client to apply the at-home product to the affected area every other day to reduce irritation, and once the skin acclimates, to apply it daily. We schedule the peel for a date when the client is not menstruating. We instruct them not to shave or wax in the three days before the peel, and not to suntan, get sunburned or otherwise irritate the area for a week before the peel. The client is asked to clean the area with a gentle antibacterial cleanser, such as a mandelic wash, before arriving for their appointment. They are told to arrive sans underwear, wearing a loose-fitting skirt or yoga style pants. Upon their arrival at our office, we bring the client to the treatment room, where soft music is playing and a lightly scented candle is lit. We give the client the informed consent form, a bottle of water and disposable underwear. Prior to starting the treatment, we encourage the client to ask any questions they may have, and double check to ensure that the consent form is signed. At our peel station, we have a mandelic toner. This is a two-step, medium depth peel solution consisting of lactic, salicylic and trichloroacetic acid, 4” x 4” gauzes, a bottle of water, eye wash, latex-free gloves and a seven-inch fan. To peel the labia majora and the inner thighs, your client should be lying flat on a bed with her leg in a bent position and her foot facing in. Fold the 4” x 4” gauze twice, and wet the gauze with the mandelic toner so that it is damp, not dripping. Start with the labia majora or outer lips. It is important to note that you are not peeling the labia minora or inner lips. The disposable underwear will act to cover the labia minora. Start at the bottom of the outer lip and gently swipe upward, as if you are cleaning a baby’s bottom. Then swipe the other outer lip. Next, move onto the inner thighs. Use the flat of the hand to stretch the skin and the other hand to swipe firmly out toward the outer thigh, then inward toward the inner thigh, making
sure to overlap. Next, using the same stroke techniques, we apply between one and three coats of the first bottle of the two-step peel. The number of coats applied is dependent on how the client is feeling. Using a scale of one (no pain) to 10 (very painful), gauge the comfort level of the client. If the client is at a seven without the fan, but a two with the fan, then apply three coats. If the client is at a seven with the fan on, apply one or two coats. Do not apply the next coat. Often we let the client rest with the fan for a few moments before proceeding. We then apply one to three coats of the second bottle of the two-step peel. Again, we ask how the client is feeling. After the last coat, the client remains on their back or side for 10 minutes with the fan blowing on the area treated. Once the client sits up, they should drink a bottle of water and get dressed in loose fitting clothing. We send the client home with a mild cleanser, an aloe based ointment and a sunscreen since that area is exposed to sun rays while sitting in a car and reflective rays while walking. The client is instructed not to rinse the area for at least six hours. It is also fine for them to go to sleep without underwear and wash it the next day. They are not to have sex or swim for three days. If itching occurs that the aloe ointment does not relieve, the client can calm the area with cold compresses. Between days three and five, the client’s skin will flake. Instruct them not to pick or pull at the flakes. If there are no issues, then the client can return in two to three weeks for a follow-up visit. If there is excessive irritation, then the client can come back in one to two days. We have never had any problems with this treatment beyond normal irritation. Can this service add value to your business? At a recent training, some attendees assumed their clients would never be interested in intimate bleaching. To their surprise, when they actually mentioned it to their clients, many indicated that they wanted it right away. “Brazilian bleaching has added a great value to my business,” says Zayas. “My clients are satisfied with the work and they love it. They come back for more.” “Intimate bleaching has much value,” Ramirez concludes. “We charge $100 for a three-minute peeling treatment. It doesn’t get any better for our bank account, and women are left happy and satisfied ... more than what any man can do for them!” n
Kelly Fulton-Kendrick, a licensed esthetician, is the CEO of Vivant Pharmaceuticals, LLC and Skin Specialists, Inc. As the daughter of Vivant president Sara Fulton and the late dermatologist/formulator James E. Fulton, Jr., M.D., Ph.D., she grew up in the skin care industry. Today, Fulton-Kendrick continues her family’s tradition of producing life changing therapies.
Page 32 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
Rob Trow and Carol Trow, B.S.N.
skin| proven vs. unproven claims vs. changes THE SKIN IS A VERY RESILIENT organ. With proper care and nourishment, the outer layer of the skin can create a healthy looking barrier that protects the inner layers of the dermis. However, damage caused by genetics, the sun’s rays, or chronic and serious mistreatment of the skin itself gives the dermis little opportunity to be restored to its original condition. Broadly speaking, there are two kinds of cosmetic skin care products. They include those that contain components that have been scientifically proven to be effective in providing non-medical skin care benefits, and those that include components that have, at best, anecdotal “evidence” that they work. It may surprise some to learn that those component ingredients that have been proven effective already achieve all of the common purposes for which non-medical skin care products are developed. Until new product components are scientifically proven to be safe and effective, individuals should know that they don’t need to risk using products with unproven components to receive real, reliable benefits.
photo: Kubais/Shutterstock.com
The vitamin solution Proven skin care component products are—perhaps surprisingly—based on vitamins that are part of the building blocks of life itself. Vitamins fulfill important biological purposes, and one of those purposes is skin care. While vitamins are essential for a healthy body, most vitamins are typically January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
When properly packaged and stored in an airless pump tube container/applicator, topically applied vitamin A has a shelf life of nine to 12 months.
bio-available to the body only through ingestion. With the exception of vitamin D, which can be impacted by sunlight, you generally have to eat or drink vitamins to receive their clinical benefits. Fortunately, that is not the case for those vitamins which—when properly delivered and administered—provide skin care benefits through topical applications. Research has documented the topical benefits of vitamins A and C. Clinically sound tests conducted on the proper topical application of vitamins A (retinol) and C (ascorbic acid) in North America and Europe have demonstrated improvements in the skin’s health and appearance. However, both
of these vitamins are volatile and subject to degradation if packaged, stored or administered incorrectly. For instance, vitamin A degrades quickly when exposed to strong light, high temperatures or oxygen in the air. For this reason, skin care with this ingredient can degrade swiftly and beyond recovery when it is stored in a clear glass or plastic container, a wide-mouthed jar that is opened repeatedly to facilitate topical application, or warm locations. However, when properly packaged and stored in an airless pump tube container/applicator, topically applied vitamin A has a shelf life of nine to 12 months. Properly packaged and applied, vitamin A does deliver a medically useful bio-availability through the skin’s outer barrier by bonding with skin cell receptors. However, for an individual to obtain maximum benefit, it is necessary to start with a low dosage and build up an acclimatization of the skin cells to vitamin A. The other topically applied vitamin that is proven to be beneficial is vitamin C, which has an established antioxidant function. By neutralizing and scavenging free radicals, vitamin C can prevent or retard future sunlight-caused photodamage to the skin, such as wrinkles. However, regardless of marketing hype claims about the functioning of the antioxidant of the month, vitamin C does not reverse this photo damage. However, vitamin C is highly volatile when exposed to oxygen. Properly continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 33
skin|proven vs unproven
formulated and bio-active, vitamin C is clear; however, it begins degrading and turning yellow, brown or orange within 10 days. Once it turns, it has no use as a skin care product. To be useful as a topical skin cosmetic with antioxidant values, vitamin C must be converted into a stabilized form. One such form is l-ascorbic acid, which is best used in a mix-before-use format. This is where the vitamin C and a catalyst are mixed immediately before use, and then stored for no more than a few days before being replaced by another mix-before-use dose. Another form of bio-available and useful vitamin C is fat-soluble vitamin C. When properly stored, this has a shelf life ranging from nine to 12 months. Fatsoluble vitamin C is absorbed and stored in the cell membranes, where it can assist in the production of collagen and the maintenance of healthy (and healthy looking) skin.
Getting technical The surface of the skin—or epidermis— is known to scientists and doctors by the Latin name stratum corneum, meaning “horned layer.” It refers to the outermost layer of the epidermis. It is made up of dead cells, and serves as a barrier to protect the underlying tissue from dehydration, chemicals, infection or physical impact. The time that it takes for a newly created skin cell to become part of the dead protective layer of the skin is about two weeks. Cosmetic products also help the skin interact primarily with this outer layer of the skin to enhance its protective function. Purely cosmetic products—as opposed to FDA-regulated, medicallytherapeutic drugs—seldom reach below that protective dead outer layer of skin, though moisturizers often do reach the living cells as well as the dead ones. Properly formulated, stored and applied topical vitamins A and C do, however, reach below this exterior layer of dead skin cells, where they deliver useful cosmetic functions that are more than merely superficial.
Junk science claims vs. real scientific proof Recently, there has been a sharp increase in claims that skin products are “emulsifierfree,” but consumers should know that emulsifiers are not necessarily bad. In fact, they are often useful in moisturizing the skin and helping the skin feel softer to the touch. This raises an important point—misunderstood or poorly understood claims play on the emotions, rather than logic. Claims about “emulsifier-free” products bring up the related issue of what the news media calls “junk science,” one of their more accurate terms. This brings up the nearly decade-long drumbeat campaign against a class of preservatives called “parabens,” which are found in many cosmetic products. These preservatives were originally declared safe for cosmetic use in 1984 by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). After unsubstantiated concerns were raised, these products were again reviewed in a series of primary research and meta-studies, beginning in 2003 and running through 2011. Junk science claims of a potential cancer risk were quickly discredited, but not before ill-informed, self-styled consumer advocacy groups tried to make a case against parabens in favor of “preservative-free” cosmetics. Without any scientific basis, they claimed that competing products using a paraben preservative had a link to precursors to breast cancer, adding to the cancer risk. However, this so-called estrogen link they cited is actually so tiny (roughly 100,000 times below the risk threshold), it may be nearly nonexistent. Studies by both the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and the European Union Scientific Commission on Consumer Safety have found no correlation between normal use of parabens and the production of estrogen, or any other scientifically validated precursors to cancer. Nearly a decade of valid scientific research has not been able to establish any risk. In 2005, after more than two years of study, the CIR again concluded that these products are safe when used in cosmetics.
Finally, some junk scientists with obvious commercial motivations have attacked the safety of mineral oil—an ingredient that has been in use for more than a century. Some have suggested that mineral oil contains harmful impurities. The impurity cited is usually polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are carcinogenic. However, this impurity was found more than 100 years ago in the original manufacturing of industrial grade mineral oil, and has never been relevant to cosmetic grade mineral oil.
Bottom line There are some products that have a sound scientific basis, and some that use fear and “junk science” in lieu of scientifically-proven ability to help deal with cosmetically-related skin problems, such as dry skin. When some individual, company or organization makes a fear inciting claim for a product, look to the scientific research instead of the fear-mongering that often occurs in cosmetic marketing. n Rob Trow and Carol Trow, B.S.N. are cofounders and owners of DermaConcepts USA, the exclusive distributor of Environ Skin Care in the United States. Rob Trow previously served as president of a privately held company. Trow holds two masters degrees, and completed his doctoral studies at Harvard University. Carol Trow has served as director of marketing for a Fortune 1000 company, and founded her own marketing and consulting firm specializing in practice development for plastic surgeons, dermatologists, attorneys and CPAs. Together, the Trows have published over 100 articles for the esthetics industry.
Page 34 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
what’s your accent...
Forward Thinking Always. Call Today to Find Your accent.
Bio-Therapeutic World Wide USA | 800.971.6259 | bio-therapeutic.com Para información en Español llame al 800.971.6474 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139
REV100313
is perhaps one of the most daunting tasks facing an esthetician. Most therapists rely upon the client telling them what they think their problems are—outside of the obvious signs such as acne or aging. Yet these skin anomalies themselves signify an internal imbalance from within the body, and therein lies the pathway to all proper skin diagnoses.
When viewing a client’s skin for the very first time, look for four things: 1. Texture 2. Color 3. Structure 4. Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
BY DANNE MONTAGUE-KING Page 36 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Shutterstock.com
Properly diagnosing a skin issue
skin
the outside in
photo: vgstudio /Shutterstock.com
AND THE INSIDE OUT
All four of these interrelate at some point, but many times, one will be more predominant. For example: Skin that is chronically red, rough with flaky patches and has the occasional breakout is often misdiagnosed as rosacea, even by dermatologists. Acne rosacea, which is not an actual symptom, is still mistakenly diagnosed around the world. In fact, this condition of skin is suffering from TEWL. Skin redness is the first sign of this. What puts out the fire? Water. In this case, the hydration levels in the bilayers of the epidermis are abnormally low. Conditions like this are often accompanied by an itching scalp. The client simply does not have enough water in their system, or in their epidermis. As a defense mechanism, the hornified cuticle barrier does not automatically exfoliate as it should. It builds up into a thick layer that ultimately does flake away in patches. Underneath that layer, sebum forms a reservoir. This reservoir is also detected by the “policeman” of the skin, and new, baby cells try to encapsulate it, forming a bump or pustule, hence the breakouts. The client is confused; they feel “dry,” but they are having breakouts. Isn’t acne associated with excessively oily skin? These clients most likely have diets that are high in carbohydrates and low in good fats and essential oils—along with low water consumption. They are tired and irritable much of the time, and at night their cortisol levels rise sky high, creating an imbalanced hormonal cascade that leads to more irritability and a desire for sweet foods or drinks. This affects the insulin levels in the body, which in turn exacerbates the condition on the skin, establishing a vicious cycle. Recognizing these symptoms should lead to an immediate discussion of lifestyle habits before treatment is even considered. If you have a professional demeanor, a confident approach of caring and a chart that reflects this inner problem—including medications taken—you are off January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
to a good start in helping your client relieve their anomalies, without depending on a miracle product to do the work! Medications can change skin structure and pH. For example, the drug Acutane, currently under a lot of scrutiny in Europe, can destroy the enzyme collagenase, which determines how much collagen is rushed to the service after a skin breach or injury. Without this policeman in place to regulate the rhythm and amount of collagen fibers, the fibroblast cells shoot an indiscriminate amount of baby collagen fibers to the surface, which impacts the site of the injury and becomes a scar. Other medications change the protective pH of the skin, leading to an overly acidic environment that hardens the cuticle, creating a pale, dry appearance and too much alkaline—which promotes excess bacteria. continues
Crèmes do not moisturize, only water does. Properly formulated, crèmes make excellent delivery systems to transport goodies in the skin, or protect the skin in inclement weather conditions— depending on how they are created.
skin|the outside in
Fallacies The word “moisturizer” was invented in 1962 by a New York advertising company to sell beauty crèmes. Crèmes do not moisturize, only water does. Properly formulated, crèmes make excellent delivery systems to transport goodies in the skin, or protect the skin in inclement weather conditions— depending on how they are created. Actual rosacea is a skin disease brought on by Demodex mites. These are tiny, microscopic mites that live, mate and proliferate in the sebaceous glands. Eventually this parasitic invasion creates pressure on the facial capillaries, which swell and take on a chronic red. Veins in the nose can become blocked and swell to enormous diameters, ultimately becoming rhinophymia. Eventually the skin starts to break down, a bacterial attack occurs and weeping lesions can form. The person suffers from this disorder for many years, receiving only temporary relief from antibiotics and calming salves.
This condition has been researched for decades, and we find that aggressively killing off the mites with a very high alkaline solution works best. The skin is returned to its normal pH following the treatments. Then the immune system of the skin starts to rebuild with beta glucan treatments, antioxidants, essential fatty acids and other forms of epidermal nourishment. One of the best internal supplements to take for rosacea or any problem skin is a combination of evening primrose oil and sea buckthorn oil. Hormonal fluctuations are stabilized by EFAs and prostaglandins. The sea buckthorn oil has an enormous, anti-inflammatory effect on the body in general. After diagnosing your client’s skin based upon visual texture, structure, color and TEWL, further examination of their dietary habits, stress levels and medical history (including medications, which can alter the pH and even cell activity) is important. In age management situations, the above mentioned EFA supplementation is vital. The inner matrix of the skin determines how bouncy and turgid it is—as in youth. As we age, the matrix, the jelly-like substance that is made up of glycoaminoglycans (GAGs), hyaluronic acid and chondroitan sulfates (binders) gets thinner and thinner with time. This results in loose and crepey skin under the neck, arms, legs and thighs. While we can improve some elasticity topically and even increase collagen production, we cannot treat the matrix except by EFA supplementation. Combining internal therapy with topical skin revision can evoke near miracles—yet the body is doing most of the work. An advanced skin care practitioner simply employs the tools that kick-start the skin’s natural systems and the “spare parts” of the body that may not be functioning anymore. In 2014, these types of treatments will become a necessary part of every therapist’s offerings. n
Danne Montague-King is a worldwide leader and visionary in the field of skin regeneration. He has been in the esthetics industry since the 1960s, and was one of the first biochemists to recognize the power of enzymes to hydrate and tighten the skin, and the benefit of vitamin C therapy for collagen in human skin.
Page 38 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Botamochy/Shutterstock.com
One of the best internal supplements to take for rosacea or any problem skin is a combination of evening primrose oil and sea buckthorn oil.
After you have gleaned all the facts from the client regarding their stress levels, lifestyle and diet, treatment for the “rosacea-like” skin is fairly simple. The first step would be the removal of the excess dead skin cells via an enzymatic or other effective, yet non-traumatic removal system. This would not include a mechanical “slough,” such as microdermabrasion, or a pH change treatment such as an acid. There are many modalities available nowadays that effectively remove redundant cell tissue without arousing further defense mechanisms (other skin conditions do respond to the more dramatic removal systems, however). The second step would be to re-establish the skin’s immune system by strengthening the Langerhans cells. This is best accomplished by daily applications of serums or water into oil crèmes, containing an active amount of beta glucans. I have never seen these wonderful little polysaccharides fail to boost the skin’s immune defenses by nearly 100 percent in a very short timespan. One of nature’s true and still mysterious miracles! The last step would be to flood the skin with water (drinking eight glasses of water a day applies here). Carrying an herbal water spritz to mist over the face several times a day puts out the “fire” in less than 48 hours, and the skin tone returns to normal. However, the first application in the morning should be occluded into the skin with a blend of highly fractionated (micellized) oils that resemble human sebum. Together, the water spritz and the oils mock our own “acid mantle,” nature’s only true moisturizer.
RADIANCE REVEALED
WINTER SOOTHER Keep skin clean, conditioned and comfortable this winter with Sensitive Skin Cleansing Milk from Control Corrective Skincare Systems®. The calming cleanser soothes inflammation, fortifies skin’s own ability to retain healing moisture and washes away dry surface cells, impurities and makeup, says the company. controlcorrective.com 866.290.4290
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
HYDRATE AND REFRESH Hydratonic from mesoestetic USA® is a gentle astringent formula designed to balance the skin’s pH, says the company. Soothing ingredients including rose water hydrate and aid in the absorption of active serums and therapeutic night treatments. mesoesteticusa.com 818.783.6881
LUMINOUS TREATMENT The new Energizing Intensive Treatment from SOTHYS is a unique facial. Siberian ginseng envelops the skin in a wave of light to reveal its youthfulness. Following a thorough cleanse and enzymatic exfoliating scrub with pineapple extract, a specific digi-energy massage stimulates the flow of chi. A deeply relaxing massage then prepares skin for a boost of vitality, combining layers of frothy hyaluronic acid and a peel-off vitamin C mask. To complete this one-of-a-kind facial, the enlightening fluid brings instant lifting and smoothing results! sothys-usa.com 305.594.4222
SKINNEWS
The Soft Scrub by Domina® Skin Care is an exfoliating lotion that instantly restores a luminous complexion, removes dead cells and smoothes the skin. The mechanical action of regular particle-size microspheres and the enzymatic peeling of salicylic acid gently eliminates impurities, says the company. This exclusive product allows cellular turnover, and nourishes and protects the skin through the properties of almond oil, oak stem cells and vitamin F. dominaskincare.com 888.998.0722
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS MORE NEWS
LNEONLINE.com • Page 39
EYE PERFECTOR
SKINNEWS
The Eye Contour Micro-Gel from Physiodermie is a high performance eye treatment. It fights the appearance of wrinkles and dark circles, calms and reduces congestion and preserves skin’s natural elasticity, says the company. methodephysiodermie.com 800.263.8888
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
ANTIOXIDANT PACKED! The Cacao Antioxidant Mask from Josh Rosebrook™ is a powerful skin brightening and rejuvenating product that detoxifies, tones, tightens and softens the skin. Results are seen after just one use, and regular users experience a clearer, firmer and overall brighter complexion, says the company. Cacao is high in flavanols— powerful antioxidants that help to activate blood circulation in the skin, stimulating blood flow to micro-circulatory areas and feeding skin the vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, amino and fatty acids it needs to be bright, tight and youthful. joshrosebrook.com
CUTTING-EDGE CLEANSING The new Clarisonic Luxe High Performance Brush Head Collection features innovative tapered, ultra-long filaments to deliver uncompromising cleansing efficacy, with enhanced hydration results to support anti-aging and keep skin looking healthy. Perfect for even the most mature, dry complexions, these brush heads gently glide over skin, leaving it feeling clean and supple. The Luxe Brush Heads come in three varieties: Cashmere Cleanse for a fullface cleanse, Satin Precision for contoured areas of the face such as the nose, lips and around the eyes, and a Velvet Foam Body Brush Head for total body cleansing. clarisonic.com 888.525.2747
REVOLUTIONARY SCIENCE Stemology brings together both human adult and plant stem cell technologies to help prevent and improve the number one cause of skin aging: the declining production of epidermal, collagen and elastin cells, which results in skin that is dull, thin and wrinkled, lacking both firmness and elasticity, says the company. Stemology’s proprietary technology promises superior anti-aging efficacy in formulations that are all natural and intelligently organic, developed based on extensive research into skin rejuvenation through stem cells. stemologyskincare.com 866.958.9995
Page 40 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
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WRINKLE REDUCER
SKINNEWS
The HydroLift® Cream by Amarté® Skin Care is a silky, rich cream with retinol that helps reduce wrinkles, says the company. It moisturizes and comforts the complexion, while retinol and adenosine diminish uneven texture and tone. Caviar extract and acacia collagen deeply hydrate to plump the skin, increase luminescence and reduce tightness for a smoother, brighter and ageless radiance. amarteskincare.com 415.800.4453
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
JUST FOR HIM Étienne Raff Paris is pleased to announce the successful launch in the North American market of their highly anticipated line of cosmetics formulated in France. The anti-aging, multi-functional male specific products contain unique actives. They offer multiple benefits proven to nourish, restore and revitalize the skin, says the company. Active ingredients such as royal jelly and Dragon’s Blood promote and protect against environmental aggressions, and treat the signs of aging by regenerating each layer of the skin. The line offers three simple products to energize, reduce wrinkles and combat dark circles. They include an Energizing Face Gel, Dark Circle Minimizing Serum and Anti-Wrinkle Eye Solution. etienneraff.com
GILDED REGIMEN The DPC® 24 Karat Gold AntiWrinkle Repair Treatment is a complete kit of six different antiaging products to help rejuvenate the skin, stimulate cell growth, lighten age spots and smooth fine lines and wrinkles. The kit contains eight pieces of 24K Gold Sheets, Collagen Serum, Energizing Silky Oil, Pure Gold Gel, eight pieces of Revive Paper Mask and Pure Gold Lotion with SPF 50. There is enough product for eight spa treatments. scfstore.com 888.388.7546
BOTTLED YOUTH The Peptide Line Smoothing Serum from Luv Ya is filled with peptides, hyaluronic acid, microspheres and botanicals. This serum mimics the skin’s collagen production mechanism, while gammaaminobutyric acid, the special amino acid, relaxes the muscular tension to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for immediate line smoothing and firming results. It is great for normal, dry and mature skin, says the company. luvyaskin.com 786.445.3300
Page 42 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
spa
your spa menu message
photo: Tyler Olson/Shutterstock.com
by Douglas Preston
T O D AY ’ S E X T R E M E LY T I M E challenged spa client is finding it more and more difficult to set aside a couple of precious hours for the personal care and restoration they desire. Between the relentless loads of career, family, commuting and other time-consuming demands, the idea of scheduling a spa treatment can seem more like a dream than a possibility. Many spa and beauty professionals have found that their clients are less willing to commit to appointments too far ahead of time because they don’t know their own schedules that far in advance. The secure standing appointment is increasingly becoming a tradition of the past. Efficiency and simplicity are elements of spa services that are becoming as important as quality and consistency. The easier it is for a client to arrive, park and receive a facial or massage treatment, the better. And much of the same holds true for the spa service menu as well. On average, most spa guests are already familiar with the types of treatments they call to schedule, so extensive service descriptions are not necessary for them. Spa neophytes can find word-heavy service copy to be a burden or even confusing to read. Long explanations of technology or product ingredients may sound more like an exam preparation than a relaxing treatment for the world-weary client. Too often, spa menus seem to be written for the pride of the owner instead of the expedient needs of prospective clients. Responding to the realities of the highpressure clients we now serve, a new trend is emerging for delivering spa services in compact, cost conscious facilities and brief service menus. “We realized that our January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
average client only came in for a single service, bought a few products and, if we were lucky, rescheduled for the next visit,” says spa owner Jennifer Norman of central Michigan. “So, we downsized the
Is your spa designed to serve the “grab and go,” hyper-busy client in need of immediate rest and restoration? spa from nine rooms to just four, focusing mostly on massage, skin and retail. We actually make more money now because our overhead is far lower, while client satisfaction remains the same.” Rhonda Beale, who operates a small spa in Southern California, explains her decision to use a more simple, timeless décor theme instead of a trendy look. “We realized that our customers, at most, only see a treatment room 12 times in a year. They barely remember the look of the room from one visit to the next, and clients do want a repeat of the positive experience they had the last time they were with us. Service technicians may tire of the décor and music after months but customers rarely do, and we’re here to please them. We also limited our treatment descriptions to three sentences each, emphasizing peace and relaxation as their main qualities. This has really worked with new clients.” Is your spa designed to serve the “grab and go,” hyper-busy client in need of immediate rest and restoration? Is your
service menu one that allows clients to easily locate and understand the treatments you offer? Remember, many people are shopping for your services online, so it may be wise to create a menu on your website that can be read during an office lunch break. Your menu may just sell better as a message instead of a novel! n Douglas Preston has a career in professional esthetics, technical education and career mentoring that spans 32 years. He was previously president of the Aesthetics International Association, and is a former committee chairman for the Day Spa Association, which named him “Spa Person of the Year” in January 2006. Preston’s recently published book, An Esthetician’s Guide to Growing a Successful Skincare Career, is a top-seller among esthetics professionals. Contact Preston at douglas@prestonskincare.com. LNEONLINE.com • Page 43
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1. Hydra Control
4. I Love My Armpits
7. Wild Cherry Body Scrub
PROVENCE COSMETICS
IWILLA REMEDY
BIO FRANCE LAB
provencecosmetics.com
iwillaremedy.com
biofrancelab.com
2. Enhance Romance
5. Maple Sugar Body Scrub
8. Exfoliating Mousse
PLANTLIFE
B. KAMINS
EVE TAYLOR
plantlife.net
bkamins.com
eve-taylor.com
3. Lavender Roll-on Essentials
6. Perfecting Body Scrub
BON VITAL’
DARPHIN
bonvital.com
darphin.com
Page 44 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
Your Valentine’s Day Retail Gift Guide Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and now is the time to stock your spa with retail your clients will be clamoring to get their hands on in time for the most romantic day of the year! Sweet aromas, skin smoothing sensations and beautifying cosmetics take center stage on the following pages of products for the sweethearts’ holiday.
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1. Island Glow Body Bronzer
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4. Extra Rich Shea Butter Moisture Cream
6. Be My Honey Scrub
SOUTH SEAS SKINCARE
southseasskincare.com
PURE PLANT SPA
dermaware.com
DERMAWARE
pureplantspa.com 2. Night Dietary Supplement
7. Phase I Shaping Salt
PURE INVENTIONS
5. Chocolate Truffle Body Wrap
ERBAVIVA
pureinventions.com
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE
erbaviva.com
eminenceorganics.com 3. Pure Bliss Mineral Bath Salt KNEIPP
kneipp.com January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 45
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1. Peptide Lip Therapy
4. Trio 3-in-1 Treatment
6. Preppiest Pink Polish
PCA SKIN
CUCCIO NATURALÉ
KARMA ORGANIC SPA
pcaskin.com
cuccio.com
karmaorganicspa.com
2. MaxiLip Lip Plumper
5. ME Peptide-Infused Nail Color Treatment
7. Nail Pro Filer
VIVANT SKIN CARE
vivantskincare.com
DERMELECT
satinsmooth.com
SATIN SMOOTH
dermelect.com 3. Lip Plumper Fuller Smoother HYDROPEPTIDE
hydropeptide.com Page 46 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
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1. Tootsie Dual Purpose Lip Gloss
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3. Lip Pencils (Delicate rose, sangria)
6. Bright & Firm Eye Treatment
J. EDWARD
jedwardbeauty.com
OSMOSIS SKINCARE
meg21.com
MEG 21
osmosisskincare.com 2. Devotion Lip Bliss
7. Advanced Eye Restore
WHAT’S YOUR VIRTUE?
4. Pro Illuminating Tweezers
SESHA SKIN THERAPY
whatsyourvirtue.com
LA-TWEEZ
seshaskin.com
latweez.com 8. Eye Wrinkle Corrector 5. Total Eye Boost
LE MIEUX
ENSPRI
lemieuxcosmetics.com
enspriskincare.com
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1. Mineral Freeze
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4. Blueberry Firming Facial Masque
6. 24 Hour Moisture
RA FOR MEN
ramethod.com
OSSETRA
lumavera.com
LUMAVERA
ossetra-global.com 2. Exotica Rhodiola Ultra Luxury Lotion
5. Muse Nourishing Cream
7. Hydrating Essence KAPLAN MD
RHONDA ALLISON
CHRISTINA
kaplanmd.com
rhondaallison.com
christina-usa.com 8. RosĂŠe Visage
3. Wild Berry Nutrient Creme
PHYTOMER
DAWN LORRAINE
phytomerusa.com
dawnlorraine.com
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1. Rosewater Facial Spray
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REVIVA LABS
4. Chocolate Power Skin Rescue Masque
6. Sugar Berry Skin Resurfacing Cleanser
revivalabs.com
GLYMED PLUS
DERMAEARTH SKIN CARE
glymedplus.com
dermaearth.com
SHIRA
5. Total Retinol-A Crème
7. Balancing Rosehips Serum
shiraesthetics.com
IMAGE SKINCARE
CLAIRVOYANT BEAUTY
imageskincare.com
clairvoyantbeauty.com
2. Pure Pomegranate Toner
3. Cocoa Enzyme Activator CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE
8. Diamond Exfolight Serum
circadia.com
BIO JOUVANCE
biojouvance.com January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 49
Regent Palms Turks & Caicos couples treatment room
intimate services for guests OUR MODERN LIFESTYLES ARE HECTIC and filled with frenzy on a daily basis. Many couples are looking for ways that they can reconnect, put stresses to rest and relax together. Many spas now offer “spa packages“ that cater specifically to couples who want to enjoy spa treatments with one another. This is the perfect way for guests to spend time with someone they love whilst decompressing, repairing and rejuvenating as a couple. Most spas have treatment rooms or VIP lounges that can accommodate various cou-
ples treatments and ensure complete privacy. It is designed for ultimate comfort and creating a multi–sensory experience that is unforgettable. In addition, most spas offer a gourmet lunch served in a private setting. Generally, couples can also use spa facilities such as saunas, whirlpools or fitness classes. Resort and hotel spas have settings for couples treatments set aside in a special room. This can be a large beachside suite, an area outside under the stars or even something in the couple’s
Page 50 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
spa
The treatment is designed to set the tone for a romantic spa-going experience, a bonding time as the duo indulges in a side-by-side spa treatment. it can be anything but. It is important that they have an idea of what to expect with each treatment and service. One of the key uncertainties of spa-going for many guests is the aspect of nudity. Respecting guest modesty is a key priority for therapists in the United States. Also, make every effort to accommodate guests’ wishes regarding the gender of their therapists.
The following are some of the most popular couples treatments.
Couples massages
romance BY GOLDIE BONNELL
AND THE SPA guest room. For an extra special touch, rooms for couples treatments may have luxuries such as fireplaces, intimate dining areas, meditation sessions, hot tubs, dual soaking tubs or steam/rain showers, and offer indulgent, delectable treats such as champagne and chocolate covered strawberries. When your clients book a couples treatment, encourage them to educate their significant other on spa etiquette. For many, it might be their first visit to a spa! This experience should be relaxing for them, but if they do not know what to expect,
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Couples massage has become very popular in a short period of time. It is currently the most popular spa treatment for couples. Spas that offer couples massage have a couples suite to ensure that the experience is kept intimate and private. The suite is large enough to accommodate two massage tables side by side. In addition, it is customized depending on the other services the couple has selected. The massage is no different than any regular massage therapy, except that this allows the couple to talk, hold hands and emotionally reconnect while the stress of daily routines is kneaded away. A couples massage allows partners to experience massage together in the same space, while each of them has their own therapist working on them individually. The treatment is designed to set the tone for a romantic spa-going experience, a bonding time as the duo indulges in a side-by-side spa treatment.
Couples pedicures A couples pedicure is a fantastic way for couples to indulge their aching feet. Couples can enjoy one another’s company while soaking side-byside. Many venues offer a foot reflexology or stone pedicure service for couples to enjoy. continues
LNEONLINE.com • Page 51
spa|romance and the spa
Many spas are now offering body scrubs and wraps as a couples treatment, so couples can enjoy de-stressing in the same room.
Couples body scrubs and wraps
Post-relaxation
Body scrubs and wraps are relaxing spa treatments that can provide therapeutic exfoliation, detoxification and hydration. Unwind, invigorate and experience a body rejuvenation with your significant other. Many spas are now offering body scrubs and wraps as a couples treatment, so couples can enjoy de-stressing in the same room. A growing trend is “tandem spa services” for both massage and body treatments, meaning two therapists work on one guest simultaneously. The experience of four hands working their magic at the same time is a wonderful, tranquil experience.
Many spas now offer couples massage lessons in addition to the spa treatment. Here couples can learn how to give each other a massage—not only a relaxing element but a nice skill to acquire before they head home to the stresses of life. In addition to massages, couples can create their own spa experience by setting aside time every once in awhile to treat each other to a relaxing foot rub, apply a body scrub before a shower or draw a hot bath to enjoy together. This trend of couples experiencing spa treatments together will likely continue to increase. If your business is not currently providing these services, this is a great opportunity to update and change some treatment options for your guests. Create excitement in your business and get your therapists trained and prepared for the new revolution in couples and tandem treatments. Start off with a promotion. Use marketing language such as, “Surprise a loved one with a special gift of retreat created especially for the two of you.” With Valentine’s Day around the corner, what are you waiting for?
Couples spa soaks A spa soak is a great way to add extra relaxing moments to a couples spa treatment. A customized warm scented bath infused with aromatherapy, which can accommodate the couple, is drawn to melt away any leftover tension and stress. Designed for ultimate comfort, this can be a lavish soak in a hot tub for two accompanied with candlelight, fruits and wine or champagne.
ANGELA PADGETT, PRESIDENT OF SKIN SENSE, RALEIGH, NC At Skin Sense, we recognize that the spa experience lends itself well to a romantic and rejuvenating way for couples to connect and share quality time. We have designed and developed our facilities and treatments to ensure that couples feel relaxed and rejuvenated, whether they have spent an hour or a day with us. Among our award-winning treatments, Skin Sense offers couples massages in our Couple’s Suite, including a romantic couples bath designed especially for twosomes to enjoy time together while sharing the experience of deep relaxation. Our signature “muditation” treatment is another perfect romantic retreat for couples, in which they enjoy the wellness benefits of muds filled with vitamins and minerals that aid in hydration, toning, slimming and exfoliation. Our muds are self-applied, set to dry with our sauna or heat lamps, then showered off, leaving the skin soft, smooth and toned. Page 52 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: bikeriderlondon/Shutterstock.com
Consider the tactics used by the following spa principles to create romance and luxury.
Chateau Élan
photo courtesy of Chateau Élan
Offering couples treatments has evolved to the comfort level that men have in coming to the spa, leading to a substantially growing number of men who make spa visits an important part of their healthy lifestyle, in harmony with other wellness rituals such as a healthy diet and exercise. MICHELLE UFER-HEROLD, SPA DIRECTOR AT CHATEAU ÉLAN, BRASELTON, GA Over the years that I have been at Chateau Élan, we have seen an increase in the demand for couples treatments! This includes everything from one-hour massages to overnight packages focused on helping couples reconnect. During our last renovation, we added two more couples suites to our treatment room inventory to meet the growing demand! We have our deluxe, which includes a double rain shower experience and a two-person hot tub, as well as dining space. We have developed several options for couples to “spa” together for the day, and we also have a couple of overnight options if the time allows. The Couples Retreat Package and our Reconnect Package are very popular as well! January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
In 2005, we added a Room for Two. We decided on the term “Room for Two” because we didn’t want to limit it to just couples. This has become our number one service at Terramé! CHARLES JOHNSON, CO-OWNER OF TERRAMÉ DAY SPA & SALON, HUNTSVILLE, AL When Terramé Day Spa & Salon opened in 2003, we had a lot of requests from our guests about a couples room. So in 2005, we added a Room for Two. We decided on the term “Room for Two” because we didn’t want to limit it to just couples. This has become our number one service at Terramé! There are many types of duos that have taken advantage of the Room for Two. They include best friends, mothers and daughters, fathers and sons, siblings, aunts and nieces and many other combinations of people who have decided continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 53
spa
The Spa at Regent Palms
to spend some time with someone they care about. Both our sales and our guest satisfaction ratings increased. AKVILE LEITONAITE, ASSISTANT MANAGER OF CORPORATE MARKETING AT SERENITY SPA BY WESTGATE, GATLINBURG, TN Getting pampered with a luxurious spa treatment at one of the most prestigious resorts in the country is a treat for anyone; a treat that can now be shared with a special someone. Serenity Spa by Westgate is an award-winning spa at the Westgate Smoky Mountain Resort & Spa in Gatlinburg, TN in the heart of the Great Smoky Mountain National Forest. Our spa director and professional staff offer more than 50 world-class mountain-inspired spa services ranging from facials, manicures and pedicures, body wraps and massage treatments. Spa guests can also enjoy their favorite treatment with their spouse or companion right beside them in the specially designed couples rooms. Couples massages are also a great choice for guests who have not had spa services in the past. Any two guests can enjoy the couples massages, and they have become a popular treatment for mothers, daughters, friends and couples.
THE SPA AT REGENT PALMS AT GRACE BAY, TURKS & CAICOS The Spa at Regent Palms is a 26,000 square foot facility that spreads out over an acre that includes 18 treatment rooms. Guests can relax in standalone treatment rooms, each accented with a water feature by day and fire feature by night, or in the garden where tented cabanas provide an alternative setting for island-inspired treatments. Two extraordinary spa suites are available for couples. These suites include their own private shower, patio with a fountain and a dining table. Since relaunching in the spring of 2012, the spa has seen a 25 percent increase in couples services. The new menu of offerings includes à la carte couples services or full packages, including an intimate lunch and quiet time. The beauty and quiet pace of Turks and Caicos makes The Spa at Regent Palms a favorite for honeymooners, babymooners and romantic getaways. n Goldie Bonnell has more than 20 years of experience in the skin care and wellness industries. She has designed programs and client treatments for many spas. Bonnell has been involved in the building of training centers for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. Teaching is Bonnell’s passion, and she has been a featured speaker on numerous topics at industry trade shows throughout the United States and Germany.
Page 54 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo courtesy of Regent Palms Turks & Caicos
The beauty and quiet pace of Turks and Caicos makes The Spa at Regent Palms a favorite for honeymooners, babymooners and romantic getaways.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #294 on reader service card
luminous BODY TREATMENTS for the New Year! BY NICOLE ROUSE
Page 56 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
spa
NEW SKIN, NEW YOU To begin a body treatment, you must incorporate exfoliation as part of each service. Not only will you increase the benefits of the treatment, it is a great addon service to any menu to increase revenue and results! Exfoliating is an integral part of the spa treatment. Techniques may vary, but the purpose of exfoliation is important. First, it rids the skin’s surface of any dirt or oil
residue, and rubs off the uppermost layer of dead skin cells. Second, it prepares the skin for subsequent treatments. Removal of the dead cells enables the skin to effectively absorb or react to products used in treatments that follow the exfoliation process. In the dead of winter, our skin is dry, dull and in need of major hydration. We often moisturize, but our skin needs more continues
photo: Nicolesa/Shutterstock.com
THE BEST AND MOST BEAUTIFUL things in the world cannot be seen or even touched. They must be felt. Imagine your mind drifting away to serenity while your body inhales the aromas of the calming and detoxifying splendors, discovering a renewed self, revitalized, regenerated and fully soothed. This is the experience we want to create for each and every guest that has a treatment in our spa.
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 57
spa and detoxify. Rinse off and apply coconut oil for ideal results. Coconut oil is lightweight, does not stain treatment sheets and adds hydration to skin.
Honey and yogurt wrap
Bora Bora sensorial seaweed body treatment
30 minutes $90-$120 Give your clients’ skin a mini vacation with this ultranourishing wrap. Revive winter skin using shea butter to hydrate and sugar to micro-polish and shed dead cells. This is your exfoliant. Start the treatment with your client lying face up, and apply ingredients to feet, working upward with gentle strokes. Leave this on to seal in all the hydrating ingredients. Combine two cups of manuka honey and four cups of plain, full fat yogurt to condition and add ultimate moisture to skin. Apply it all over the body. Avoid nonfat yogurt, as you want to maintain the wrap’s hydrating properties. Finish by wrapping the body for 15 minutes with a plastic sheet and one blanket. While the client is resting, give them a therapeutic neck massage for ultimate relaxation. Apply warm towels afterward to remove excess residue. Finish by adding a moisturizing body cream.
Arabica coffee treatment 30 minutes $75-$100 Do you want to help your clients combat cellulite? We all know the great benefits of coffee and how it awakens us, but are you familiar with the benefits of applying finely ground coffee to the skin? Educate your client on the results of this unique treatment. Because cellulite is one of the hardest types of fats to dissolve in the body, it is important to use key ingredients. Cellulite is an accumulation of old fat cell clusters that solidify and harden as the surrounding tissue loses its elasticity. Combine the following natural key ingredients, and your clients won’t need to make an appointment for liposuction! Caffeine is an active ingredient in combating cellulite. When applied to your client, it causes skin microcirculation and helps decrease the appearance of cellulite while firming, toning and detoxifying the body. Combine six drops of the recommended essential oils with one cup of coffee grounds to boost the benefits. Apply the blended exfoliant one tablespoon at a time using a gloved exfoliation mitt. Tangerine, orange and lemon essential oils actually help reduce fat cells. Grapefruit essential oil is fat-dissolving and also detoxifies. Juniper, patchouli and rosemary help with fluid retention, while cypress enhances circulation to support the elimination of fatty deposits. Use circular motions in targeted areas, or all over the body to exfoliate
60 minutes $120-$200 Take your senses on a journey with this treatment. Seaweed is exceptionally beneficial as a quick way to remineralize the body and replenish it with nutrients and elements lost on a daily basis. The molecular formation of the human blood cell and that of seawater is similar, enabling nutrients from the seawater to easily filter through the pores of the skin and directly into the bloodstream. Take 8 oz of dried or powdered seaweed and add enough warm water to make a paste. Add two drops of vanilla essence and two drops of coconut essence to your seaweed treatment for major hydration, while whisking your senses away to the beaches of Bora Bora. Have your client relax in a heated wrap for 20 minutes. While they are relaxing, add on a stimulating and hydrating scalp treatment with the additional leftover product! Your clients love this add-on, and it will add major moisture to their hair and scalp. Remember, it is best to never leave your client unattended during any treatment! Slowly unwrap and immerse them in a warm hydrotherapy bath with 10 drops of neroli oil for a tranquilizing, slightly hypnotic experience. If the bath is not possible, simply follow with a moisturizing treatment. Remember these key tips to achieve the ultimate glow. Recommend that your client replenish the body’s fluids after each treatment. When they book their appointment, advise them that they can intensify the effects of the treatment and raise their body’s temperature by sipping hot herbal tea before the service. Note that all body treatments work best in a series of four to six services n Nicole Rouse is a medical esthetician with more than 17 years of experience. She is currently a strategic development consultant at CosMedix, working closely with dermatologists, plastic surgeons and medi-spas to help them grow their businesses. Rouse has worked with top companies and retailers on all sides of the beauty industry, which has helped her to learn and inspire others.
Page 58 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Lilyana Vynogradova/Shutterstock.com
Combine two cups of manuka honey and four cups of plain, full fat yogurt to condition and add ultimate moisture to skin.
attention and key ingredients to get that luminous glow back! Here are some treatments to add to your service menu for the New Year!
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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #224
LNE & SPA’S
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BEST BEST 2011 2012
SELF CARE FOR SPA PROFESSIONALS
photo:Blend Images/Shutterstock.com
READY OR NOT, IT’S FLU SEASON!
Page 60 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
spa
It is that time of year again—
flu season! Contract massage therapists continually worry about being exposed to germs and illness. Unfortunately, it is virtually impossible to stay away from everything that can make us sick. A a spa professional, you are in the business of taking care of others. Hence, you should do measurably well for yourself by adhering to a healthy lifestyle.
Essential self-care management 101 Taking care of oneself is vital, whether to prevent illness by maintaining a healthy immune system or decreasing the days of missed work once the flu lands you flat on your back. •
Hydrate. Drinking enough water is important when you are healthy, and it is especially important when you are sick. Drinking warm liquids may prevent dehydration when you have a fever, and it helps to loosen mucous and make your throat feel better.
Stacy Davis, a registered dietitian and licensed nutritionist, reminds spa professionals to drink enough fluids. If getting water down seems impossible, she receommends making ice pops with 100 percent fruit juice, like apple, strawberry or orange.
• Sleep. Your body heals when you sleep and keeps your immune system balanced.
• Eat well. Consume the most nutritious foods possible, and speak to a nutritionist about the best supplements to take to support your immune system.
• Practice meditation and exercise, and take time to enjoy being outdoors. Try to exercise and meditate in nature. Qigong and tai-chi are powerful exercise programs that combine breathing, meditation and exercise. Exercise helps the immune system
by promoting good circulation. Even if it is cold outside, get your body moving in the house.
• Breathe well, and do what you tell your clients to do. Improve your posture to aid your body’s ability to breathe fully. Pull your scapulars back to your spine, lift your head and take a deep breath. This simple technique can be done anytime, anyplace.
• Be ever so grateful when you return to work. Take on a new appreciation for the
As a spa professional, you are in the business of taking care of others. Hence, you should do measurably well for yourself by adhering to a healthy lifestyle.
privilege of working when you are able to do so again.
• Use essential oils. Diffusers work well and can be used in treatment rooms for clients as well as yourself. Essential oils can also be added to massage creams in the spa setting.
The best essential oils for colds • Peppermint: Relieves headaches caused by congestion. Put a small drop of this on the temples. • Eucalyptus: This decongestant soothes respiratory problems. • Oregano: This proven antibacterial fights sinus infections. • Ylang Ylang: Boosts the immune system. Oftentimes, sick clients do not realize that a massage would be a contraindication to their illness. When your client calls to make an appointment and they share with you that they have been ill, it is important that you ask them several questions. • Do they still have a fever? • Did they need antibiotics or are they still considered contagious? • Are they willing to cancel their appointment? • Can you negotiate with them to reschedule? continues
BY ANTOINETTE MUIRHEAD
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 61
spa|ready or not, it’s flu season
If you decide that a massage is safe, remember to avoid deep tissue. Offer a gentler massage to avoid taxing someone who is recovering from the flu. If you decide that a massage is safe, remember to avoid deep tissue. Offer a gentler massage to avoid taxing someone who is recovering from the flu. Incorporate reflexology to increase their immune system and help aid them in the healing process. Respiratory concerns are not just the contagious kind (chronic bronchitis). Asthma and COPD are conditions that our clients might suffer from. Research their medications and see which side effects there might be. Do any of the medications cause osteoporosis? If so, do you need to modify the pressure? Can deep work around the mid-back start a cough spasm? Elevating someone’s head definitely makes it easier to breathe. Ask them: “Do you need a pillow for your head?” A side lying position will possibly be more comfortable than a prone position; some clients may even need to recline in a portable massage chair.
Antoinette Muirhead is a licensed massage therapist. She initiated the outpatient massage program at Memorial West Cancer Center. Muirhead is also a patient advocate, and has taken part in numerous patient advocacy conferences, including the Living Beyond Breast Cancer conference for the past five years. To learn about her oncology massage training in the spa setting, visit tonimuirhead.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card
Page 62 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: ESLINE/Shutterstock.com
You owe it to your clients to stay healthy. When you do lose the battle, realize the importance of staying home. You need to know when to work and when to take a break. Take the Essential SelfManagement 101 pledge and promise yourself that you will stay as healthy as you can this flu season! n
CHOCOLATE DECADENCE
A BETTER BATH The Relax Bath Salts from erbaviva provide therapeutic benefits, says the company. The formula of top quality ingredients includes premium sea salt, safflower oil and vitamin E, as well as essential oils of lavender, rose and patchouli. erbaviva.com 877.372.2848
STYLISH JETSETTERS SILKY SMOOTH The Scarlet Berry Wax With Acai from Satin Smooth® has a pleasing, fruity aroma and spreads on thinly and easily. This product works well on all parts of the body. Those with normal to oily skin and fine to coarse hair will find this wax to be especially beneficial, says the company. The fresh new wax is available in both soft and hard wax formulations. It spreads on all body parts thinly and easily. satinsmooth.com 800.726.4204
BijaBody has launched a comprehensive Luxe Jet Set of their esthetician created, anti-aging body care products. The set includes a luxurious, intricately designed, handmade beauty travel bag with a built-in jewelry organizer, which holds TSA approved sizes of Bedside Manner Lip + Hand Treatment, Anti-aging Body Treatment, Cleansing Body Scrub and Daily Body Serum. bijabody.com 406.209.8460
SPANEWS
The new Dark Chocolate Brown Sugar Body Scrub from Provence Cosmetics is a sublime body scrub formulated with organic brown sugar and vitamin E. It instantly makes skin soft, smooth, healthy and glowing, with a beautiful scent of warm cacao, says the company. ProvenceCosmetics.com 877.700.7775
BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS MORE NEWS January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 63
SWEET TREAT FOR FEET
FOOT FUNGUS KILLER
SPANEWS
The Concierge Podiatry Nighttime Foot Rejuvenation System addresses dry skin and/or cracks on the soles of the feet due to fungal infection of the skin. It contains four items that work together. The Nighttime Foot Rejuvenation Gel kills the fungus that is directly exposed to it, says the company. The foot scrubber is used with this gel to remove fungus. A nail brush is included for scrubbing the fungal nails. The Nail & Foot Gel is applied twice weekly to keep the feet in top condition. drroths.com 800.486.0325
The Cuccio Naturalé Detoxifying Salt Soak with Milk & Honey helps to destress, soothe and revitalize the feet, naturally leaving the skin fresh and clean. Milk and honey naturally soothe and moisturize, while lactic acids from milk add moisture, says the company. Honey is a natural humectant, included for additional hydration. cuccio.com 800.762.6245
SOFTEN AND REVIVE The Shea Butter & Malawi Sugar 2-n-1 Body Scrub from Shea Terra Organics is a rich and indulgent fudge brownielike chocolate scrub. The scrub, made with pure cacao mass and intoxicating vanilla, scrubs away dull looking skin while softening it, says the company. sheaterraorganics.com 877.427.6627
INDULGENT IMMERSION The Chocotherapy in Spray Cocoa Emulsion from Clayspray® is indulgent chocolate in mineral water. Rich in natural polyphenols, the hydrating power of the formula improves skin’s appearance, producing a radiant and seductive look, says the company. It can also be used on hair to make it smooth and shiny. Clayspray.com
BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS Page 64 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
by Mara Shorr
business
THE PERSONALITIES OF EACH client who walks through your door are as varied as the colors in a rainbow. They each have different expectations, and should be managed accordingly to ensure success for both of you. But how do you spot the best way to do so? Generally, clients will fit into one of seven categories, making your interactions easier to navigate. 1. The new client. You have spent hard-earned dollars creating a brand and technique that brings new clients into your spa or esthetic practice. Whether through social media, press, paid advertising or word of mouth referrals, this brand new client should be welcomed with open arms. How to handle this client: All of your clients deserve a warm welcome. But be sure to give your new client a full rundown of the facility, including a proper introductory greeting. For example, “Good morning, Mrs. Smith! On behalf of all of us, let me be the first to welcome you. Can I offer you a glass of water?” Offer this client a tour, inform him/her about your email list and social media outlets as well as your current offers and services. 2. The undecided client. Clients are undecided for a variety of reasons. For example, certain new-to-them procedures and pricing may initially scare them. How to handle this client: Get to the root of what this client is undecided about. Do they need a pricing plan or more information about how injectables work? Explain the procedure in as much detail as is necessary for them to feel comfortable with the choice. Use words like “minor discomfort” instead of pain, “injections” instead of needles and “relaxes” instead of paralyzes. January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
3. The upset client. Perhaps this client waited too long in your reception area while you were held up, felt that they were put on hold for an abnormal amount of time or had less than desirable results after a treatment. Whatever the reason, your client is upset. How to handle this client: The most important thing to do is listen. Find out what went wrong and what you can do to fix it. Offer an extra, low ticket service to your client to make up for the inconvenience of waiting and assure them that you understand their time is valuable. If the procedure or treatment truly does appear to be subpar, fix it at no additional cost to your client. 4. The negotiator. It may not matter how reasonable (or reduced) your pricing is, you are always going to have some negotiators approach you. They want lower prices and will nickel and dime you at every turn. How to handle this client: Deter mine how low you are comfortable going and stick to that price. If the requested negotiated price not acceptable to you, don’t be afraid to explain to the client that you aren’t able to drop your prices to that level. This client will be difficult to upsell when it comes to other procedures, and most likely is not worth your time. 5. The shopper. This client calls your office and is able to name the prices of similar services at each of your competitors, asking you to do better. How to handle this client: This client will always be looking for the next best deal, easily moving on to a competitor’s daily deal. Loyalty will be non-existent, and there will be little to no opportunity to upsell. When the shopper calls, tell them your pricing, and don’t be afraid to send them to your competitor.
spa-goer personalities
6. The VIP client. You love this client. This is the client that comes in for regular treatments, following your proposed regimens to a tee, making them not only a wonderful source of revenue through scheduled treatments and ease in the upsell, but a delight to have in your facility. How to handle this client: Treat this client like the VIP they are! Make sure she/he knows about all of your specials and new, full priced offerings. There should be no wait time upon their arrival, and you may even send them a birthday card, call or text at lunchtime. Once you have attracted this client to your business, make sure that you keep them! 7. Disordered thinker. This particular client sends up a red flag for body dysmorphic disorder. How to handle this client: Perhaps this client sees wrinkles and brown spots that don’t actually exist, and therefore has unrealistic expectations about the results of the treatment or procedure they are requesting. Take note of this right away, and let the client know that there won’t be any way for you to truly make them happy. n
Mara Shorr is the vice president of marketing and business development for The Best Medical Business Solutions, a Florida-based company helping esthetic and cosmetic medical practices and spas with the financial, operational and administrative health of their business. She is a Level II and III certified esthetic consultant, utilizing knowledge and experience to help clients achieve their potential. Shorr is a national speaker and writer, and can be contacted at marashorr@thebestmbs.com. LNEONLINE.com • Page 65
THE WELCOME WAGON
SETTING EMPLOYMENT EXPECTATIONS FOR NEW HIRES
HIRING A NEW EMPLOYEE INVOLVES A degree of risk for both the company and the individual. After all, how can a business predict whether or not a new hire will become a long term asset to the company? On the other hand, how can a new employee foresee whether he or she will find the company to be a good fit for their own professional goals? According to a recent survey conducted by the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the February 2013 hiring rate chimed in at 3.2 percent, while the separations rate was 3.1 percent. That means companies are losing employees at almost the
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January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
off is ideal for both the company and the new employee. This is not an impossible task. However, there are certain factors that must be considered and incorporated to ensure that employment expectations for new hires are successfully met.
Warming up the welcome wagon Effective employee expectations start with setting the tone of the work environment. For any new hire, the first day on the job is fraught with excitement and anxiety. An authentically warm reception eases first day jitters, and helps set a continues
BY ANNE JENSEN
photo: Monkey Business Images/Michael Jung
same rate that new hires are being acquired. When a company hires a new employee, it is making an investment. When a new employee joins a business, he or she also makes an investment. Both entities are hoping for the best, a mutually satisfying venture that optimizes both commercial and personal success. The path toward achieving fulfillment from this joint venture is paved with expectations and setting goals. Also known as onboarding, establishing this type of prospective agenda would theoretically yield low turnover, high morale and staff loyalty. In other words, the professional pay-
LNEONLINE.com • Page 67
business promising course for high productivity and retention. According to a Society for Human Resource Management (SHRM) analysis, “the faster new hires feel welcome and prepared for their jobs” correlates directly with how valuable employees become to the company. Making sure that a new employee’s first impression of the company is open and receptive fosters goodwill and good work. Having a team lunch for the new hire or setting up a buddy system with a seasoned, positive employee is an excellent way of making the new hire feel included. Be sure to listen to your new hire’s ideas. They bring fresh new thoughts to an already working process, and their ideas may bring great success, efficiencies and achievements for your business. Allowing them to contribute to the business fosters ownership of their job.
Creating clear, realistic goals Establishing employee goals that are clear and realistic helps new hires hit crucial professional benchmarks. In fact, a good portion of goal setting can be done during the interview process prior to hiring new employees. Whether it is retail sales goals, client retention goals or work schedule requirements, clearly communicate your expectations to the prospective employee and confirm that they agree to meet these expectations before becoming an official part of the business team. When a prospective employee agrees to clarified expectations before becoming an official part of the business team, the implicated goals have already been accepted. After hiring, employee expectations can be explicitly addressed. Be sure to have an orientation or training guideline prepared so the new employee knows what is to be accomplished. Therefore, the implicated goals have already been accepted. Employees are only human—and human beings make mistakes. However, people also possess a great capacity for overcoming mistakes and becoming highly proficient. Realistic goals are achievable goals, and those successes can be built upon to accomplish more.
Unilateral approaches and appreciations
Anne Jensen is the recruitment manager for Avitus Group. She has assisted in hiring hundreds of members from every industry imaginable. Through the use of top of the line technology, a vast array of advertising resources and up to the minute recruiting trends, Jensen helps attract top candidates to job advertisements. Page 68 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: istockphoto.com/Michelar
Establishing employee goals that are clear and realistic helps new hires hit crucial professional benchmarks. In fact, a good portion of goal setting can be done during the interview process prior to hiring new employees.
Positive and proactive communication is the core of every successful working relationship, including the one between companies and new employees. Establishing an evaluating system that is consistent and fair fosters a sense of equilateral value. According to a 2006 report from the Families and Work Institute, cultivating a work atmosphere of high employee value is cyclical. When employees understand the positive value he or she brings to a business, that value continues offsite into their personal lives—and bounces back into the workplace. Positivity breeds positivity, and this applies to new hires as well. Essentially, a successful company’s backbone is built on good, skillful employees. Infusing a bit of humanism into performance expectations goes a long way toward procuring and retaining them. n
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #303 on reader service card
Nurturing THE NEW LUXURY IN SPA
AS SPA INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS, WE SEE THE effects that our treatments have on guests. We see the dreamy looks on their faces as they exit a treatment room and float down the hall to the relaxation lounge before checking out at the front desk. The visible transformation resulting from a well-executed, nurturing spa experience is almost tangible. This state of bliss is not lost on the spa guest, as you can be sure that they savor this state of balanced being and realize its importance. Data also indicates an increase in spa visits from previous years. Spa treatments not only nurture the body, but the mind and spirit as well. The sensation of nurture is the Holy Grail of a top spa experience. The definition of luxury begins to change along with the realization that a nurturing spa treatment is one of the most precious experiences one can have.
The nurture evolution What defines luxury is evolving. Luxury is no longer just seen as expensive “things” to be acquired. The definition of luxury is transcending the commercial sense, as more and more
people are seeking out something more important—an experience that delivers a true sense of luxury—a focus on the self through a nurturing spa experience. More and more guests are coming to spas, according to ISPA’s 2013 U.S. Spa Industry Study, which reported that spa visits were back to their pre-recession peak at 160 million, a 2.8 percent increase from 156 million in 2011, and growing. Luxurious nurturing is not only good for the body, mind and spirit, it is good for business as well. Even in a challenging economy, the spa industry has not only persevered, it has emerged as an important force in the industries of hotel, leisure, travel, health and wellness, generating an excess of $14 billion. Leading hotels and resorts have allocated precious budgets to their spas, as they know that having a spa is no longer an amenity, but a necessity to ensure business success. Hospitals have evolved to integrate spa treatments as part of their programs, with the world renowned Mayo Clinic in Minnesota and Henry Ford Hospital and Medical Center in Michigan as prime examples. And an entire new industry has emerged called wellness tourism. According to the Global
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photo: IS ImageSource / istockphoto.com
beyond pampering
business
A most appropriate description of the spa experience is care and attention. And isn’t that what we as human beings seek from the moment of our conception? Care and attention from womb to childhood and onto adulthood? Nurturing is the key that enables each of us to grow to reach our fullest potential as individuals. The ability to nurture, and to deliver care and attention is what a spa is all about. Every single touchpoint in a well-run spa is about the guest experience and how to best deliver the care and attention that makes the spa experience come to life for them. As veterans of the spa industry, we know how an amazing spa treatment can transform our guests. We also know the difference between a well executed spa treatment and a transformational spa treatment. It is that special touch, that care and attention, that intangible exchange that takes the nurturing touch to a unique place that transcends the experience, creating a priceless, luxurious experience. And that experience is what spa guests are seeking, and it is why they return again and again, for that special nurturing touch that epitomizes a new luxury experience.
Nurture the new category of luxury
BY ALISON HOWLAND
Spa & Wellness Summit report, this concept is a market worth nearly $500 billion, further supporting the good business that nurturing spa treatments create. All this new focus on the spa isn’t happening because going to a spa is simply a luxury. It is because of the actual exchange that happens in the spa experience. It is that most important aspect of spa that animates the entire experience, and that special inspirational exchange called nurturing. Research shows that caring for oneself is not merely an indulgence. It has a positive effect on one’s health. Caring for oneself not only through fitness but also through spa experiences is a type of preventative care that has become a new way of ensuring health and well-being. And a well-executed nurturing spa experience is a sure path to achieving balanced health.
Spa and nurture When you Google the word “nurture,” more than eight million results are offered. The definition of the word, according to Webster’s Dictionary, is the care and attention given to someone or something that is growing or developing. January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Stress is a way of life with our jobs, family responsibilities and day to day demands on each and every one of us. It is a fact that stress is at an all time high, and data demonstrates that stress induces a variety of chronic ailments. The effects of stress, even for healthy people, go deeper than most of us realize. It affects everything from the brain, the heart, speed of aging and an abundance of other serious health problems. The ideal in spa has moved from “pampering” to prevention. With all the clinical data available today, that not only justifies the importance of touch, but implores people to seek it out to alleviate chronic ailments. So is it any wonder that more and more people are seeking the nurturing touch of spas? Spas have shed their reputation for expensive places that only the rich and famous can afford or fancy places that corporate retreats spend big dollars on. Spas have emerged as serious businesses that have persevered through global economic downturn to emerge stronger than ever. The emergence of spa as the most sought after personal experience is well earned. Spas offer people an experience in the best and highest sense, by providing them with the luxury of being nurtured. With the peace of mind that nurturing touch affords a guest, this precious commodity of care and attention, what we call “nurture” is, without a doubt, the new luxury in spa. n
Alison Howland is president of Spa Success Consultants, Inc. She develops spas and their businesses, helping them with marketing and branding strategies, management, education and sales. Howland has successfully opened spas in nine countries, writes articles for a variety of industry publications and frequently speaks at trade events. LNEONLINE.com • Page 71
photo: Luba V. Nel /Shutterstock.com
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business
OUT THE OLD WITH
WHY NEGATIVE THOUGHTS AND CRITICISM ARE DESTROYING YOUR TEAM
A POPULAR MOVIE CRITIC ONCE stated to his audience: “It is easier to criticize than compliment—with the former providing better job security.” Fortunately for him, we are a species of critics who are drawn to the criticism of others. Observe the shouting parent, with their feet planted at the sidelines of their child’s hockey game, boldly hammering on about all that went wrong. Listen to the political pundits who debate world events and proclaim their superiority over their opponents’ flawed viewpoints. At one time or another, most of us joined the trend of the television viewing audience to catch the latest reality show singing contest. We may not remember every young vocalist who gets up on that stage, but we can recall how we were entertained by a certain judge who loved to criticize and couldn’t bear the noise! If you are prone to sizing up, putting down, singling out or assigning blame, there is a strong possibility that life has not met your expectations. In fact, our society encourages us to raise our expectations of others and to settle for nothing less. We criticize because we have expectations. Others must exceed our standard, bend over backward, give us what we deserve and deliver or else.
While striving for excellence often leads to positive growth and inspires the ranks to be more accountable and capable, a sense of entitlement leads to disappointment, negativity and criticism instead. As a spa manager or director supervising a team, be mindful of how easy a company-wide epidemic of criticism can evolve, causing low morale and lackluster performance. In turn, the energy is stale, the spark has dimmed and the old team begs to become new again. James Allen, author of As a Man Think eth, offers the following advice: “As a man thinketh in his heart, so is he …” Allen explains that our thoughts affect every single condition in our lives. They dictate our mental and physical health, as well as our outlook on life. They decide if we should grow in our achievements or opt for an existence that harbors blame. Disciplining one’s thoughts is no easy task, yet provides a treasure chest of rewards if this process is engaged. Within the workplace, identifying and helping to reshape the thought patterns and character of team members is a good start, in order to banish entitlement and self-centered behavior. Ultimately, a team cannot cross the goal line together if their hearts and minds do not collectively share the following “heartfelt” and “thoughtful” attributes.
1. Compassion Compassion for others conquers fear and elevates an individual above the feeling of being taken advantage of or manipulated. Genuine compassion demonstrates servant leadership and a palatable goodwill that enhances the corporate climate. In a work environment that is highly competitive among individuals, it is almost impossible to achieve a higher level of productivity and reap rewards that only come from a collaborative effort. SOLUTION: Managers must articulate why compassion positively impacts the group and invite their teammates to demonstrate acts of kindness. In lieu of profiling acts of conflict, invite employees to share how a past act of compassion impacted them. Create and display a list of practical ways the team can demonstrate compassion during the workday! continues
AGREE TO FORFEIT TOXIC BEHAVIORS LIKE GOSSIP AND JEALOUSY, FORGING A ZERO TOLERANCE POLICY.
BY JOSEPH MANDATO
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 73
business|out with the old
A lack of trust in the workplace is common and very destructive. A lack of trust begins with an assumption that other members of the team have purposed themselves to harm you, your reputation and your ability to advance. A “synthetic harmony” presides over behaviors, as the dishonest folks do not reveal their deck of cards. While some individuals persist as a destructive force (and should find the front door), most team members are willing and yearning to trust their coworkers, as long as the environment is safe enough to take that risk. SOLUTION: Create team rewards based on group collaboration versus an environment that rewards survival of the fittest. Agree to forfeit toxic behaviors like gossip and jealousy, forging a zero tolerance policy. As a spa manager, your posturing should resonate cohesion and articulate a level of trust and faith in your coworkers. Never be afraid to address behaviors that prompt distrust of other associates, and find the root cause of divisive behavior. Ask for an immediate solution.
3. Humility The opposite of humility is arrogance. If an egotist exists within the workplace, know that they generally deny fallibility and any notion that the buck stops with them. They see themselves as superior contributors to the team, and believe they are exempt from guidelines and standards. It is common for these individuals to criticize the job performance of other people as the reason for their failure. SOLUTION: Spa managers should communicate the virtures of humility. Discuss how positioning one’s strengths and accomplishments to help others versus boasting has a lasting impact and earns respect. The most effective and beloved leaders throughout history spent more time complimenting the good work ethic and accomplishments of others than those of
AS A SPA MANAGER, YOUR POSTURING SHOULD RESONATE COHESION AND ARTICULATE A LEVEL OF TRUST AND FAITH IN YOUR COWORKERS.
themselves, and the fruits of their labor are palatable. Remind the team that as humans, we all make mistakes. When we fall short, it is better to humbly admit it and ask for help.
4. Accountability The most important attribute that must be found in each employee is a sense of accountability to the standards and wishes of the organization. General George Marshall, who is known for leading the post war economic transition in Europe with the Marshall Plan, is also credited with transforming the United States military from a feeble band of soliders into the mightiest military force the world has ever known. At the core of his belief system was absolute accountability without excuses. Anything less would instantly cost officers their jobs. In the spa environment, many are afraid of confrontation. They confuse problem solving with personal criticism, and therefore fail to contain the problem. While respect and courtesy are demonstrated by capable spa managers, they must never turn a blind eye to coworkers who consciously demonstrate low pro-
ductivity, poor performance and lack of focus. This behavior causes atrophy and malaise to creep into the organization. SOLUTION: Constantly communicate the standard, and how it must not be compromised to avoid consequence. Cite examples of other companies whose tolerance of apathy has led to their gradual demise. A good leader will simultaneously give responsibilities to their team members that complement their natural strengths and talents in order to fuel their motivation to give 100 percent. As a spa manager, demonstrate your accountability to your team by supporting their success, and expect them to show you the same courtesy in return. Promote accountability as a badge of honor rather than a burden, while pointing out how a strong work ethic inspires others to follow suit. Though a manager cannot force others to adapt these heartfelt thoughts that lead to winning actions, they can absolutely champion these standards themselves and through mentoring their team. A spa is a place of ongoing renewal, and your team must embrace your new motto for a new year: Out with the old and in with the new! n
Joseph Mandato is president of Fortress Strategic Management Group, including companies such as the award winning La Bella Spa and Eternia Luxe Science Skin Care. Mandato holds a master’s degree in disease prevention, and is currently engaged in doctoral work for business and organizational management. He is a published writer and speaker, and an advisory board member for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa.
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photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com
2. Trust
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #140
business|growing young together
Growing Young
TOGETHER: Anti-Aging Treatments for Couples
GROWING OLD TOGETHER HAS LONG BEEN THE goal of those who are in loving, committed, romantic relationships. Many dream of spending years and years with the one they love, growing as a pair as each partner also grows as an individual. However, in recent years, that goal has changed a little. Yes, couples still want to grow together over time, but they don’t necessarily want to grow “old” together. Recent advancements in anti-aging technology have changed the way both women and men look at lines and wrinkles, sagging skin, age spots and other signs of the aging process. These telltale signs of growing older were once
something you either accepted or paid thousands of dollars to surgically erase. Now, there are options that are easy, fairly inexpensive and widely used among both genders. The new anti-aging procedures have become a routine act of maintenance for many women, and the number of men who get these treatments is growing. Treating couples with anti-aging procedures may not be as romantic of a concept as treating them by performing a couples massage or other relaxing spa treatment, but there are ways to promote your anti-aging services to couples. At the heart of the marketing plan is getting them to book the treatments as a pair while allowing them to decide whether this is an activity they want to do together or separately.
Is your client in a relationship? The bond that develops between a client and an esthetician, hair stylist, cosmetic laser technician or other beauty provider is often one that is similar to a friendship (some may even liken it to that of a therapist). Hence, you will likely talk with your
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photo: Digital Skillet/ istockphoto.com
BY LOUIS SILBERMAN
business|growing young together
clients about what’s new in their personal lives—including their relationships. If your client is attached, why not market your services to his or her other half? Your clients know how great certain anti-aging treatments make them feel, so why wouldn’t they want to share that feeling with their partners? To help your clients suggest treatments to their partners, be sure to use words like “rejuvenating,” “brightening” and “enhancing” to describe the procedures. That will likely work better than saying to your client, “Tell your husband he needs to do something about his turkey neck!” When offering anti-aging services to couples, you also want to make sure that your spa, salon or other facility is welcoming to pairs. The first thing you will need to ensure is that you have a space that is comfortable for two. This doesn’t necessarily mean that you need a treatment area that can fit two people; it just means that you need to have a comfortable area for one partner to wait while the other is getting a consultation or receiving a treatment. Additionally, you will want to create an atmosphere that is attractive to male and female guests. It’s no secret that the majority of spa clientele are women. However, more and more men are becoming interested in esthetic treatments, and you don’t want to scare them away with a décor that they may consider too frou-frou or feminine! I suggest adorning your space with neutral earth tones that are widely appealing and have a calming and relaxing effect.
Marketing popular services
photo courtesy of National Laser Institute
As mentioned in the beginning of this article, marketing antiaging services to couples is different than marketing many relaxing spa treatments. Some couples may want to be in the same room to hold one another’s hands; others may go together, but get treated separately, while others may choose to come on separate days. It all depends on the wants and needs of the couple, and you will need to tailor your treatments accordingly. One of the best ways to market to couples is to offer them incentives for booking the treatments at the same time, and letting them decide how they would like to schedule them. Some examples of incentives include: • Book one treatment, get one half-off • Book two treatments, and each partner receives a complimentary take-home product • Book two light-based treatments, and each partner receives a free chemical peel
• Book a series of treatments for two, and receive a complimentary his and hers facial
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Radiofrequency skin tightening is a noninvasive procedure that firms sagging skin by sending heat energy into the skin’s dermal layer, while the superficial layer remains protected. You may also want to feature certain treatments as your designated couples treatments and give them creative names. This shows that you have selected specific treatments that can help couples grow “young” together. You don’t want to offer couples’ specials for all of your treatments, because you want to let your clients know that you picked certain procedures for a reason. I have been a med spa owner for more than 10 years, and in that time I have found that these are some of the best medical esthetic treatments for targeting the aging concerns of both male and female clients. Most of these treatments will require that couples set up a series of three to six treatments (on average) to achieve the best results. So you may also want to offer package deals that include more than one treatment for each partner.
Intense Pulse Light photofacial The Intense Pulse Light (IPL) photofacial has become one of the most requested skin treatments for reducing the appearance of sun damage and age spots, a common skin care concern for both men and women. I have received this treatment, and it erased years of sun damage that had accumulated during my early 20s when I worked as a tennis instructor at a Caribbean resort! IPL is a light-based service that can also effectively treat other signs of aging, including fine lines and skin texture issues.
Fractional laser skin rejuvenation Fractional skin rejuvenation is a stronger light-based treatment that uses a fractionated laser beam to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, stretch marks, acne scars and age spots. This procedure stimulates the growth of collagen in the dermis, and because the laser is fractionated, it is capable of treating skin concerns without harming the skin’s superficial layer. continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 77
Chemical peels Certain chemical peels can address anti-aging concerns like fine lines, wrinkles and dry skin. Chemical peels do this by removing dead skin cells to kick start the regeneration of new, younger skin. Some of the most commonly administered chemical peels are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), Jessner’s and trichloroacetic acid (TCA).
Nonsurgical skin tightening Radiofrequency skin tightening is a noninvasive procedure that firms sagging skin by sending heat energy into the skin’s dermal layer, while the superficial layer remains protected. The controlled heat causes the skin’s tissue to retract while simultaneously stimulating collagen production.
Spider vein reduction Spider veins are a problem that affect both men and women. Treatments that utilize laser, IPL and heat energy are all noninvasive options for the treatment of these unsightly veins. Devices that offer light-based treatments work by emitting
a special wavelength of light that is only absorbed by the vein. Treatments using heat energy deliver a regulated high frequency current to the blood vessel. In most states, esthetic professionals are not required to have any prior medical experience to perform these or many other high-tech anti-aging treatments. However, to safely and effectively perform medical esthetic treatments, education and training are of the utmost importance. The length of time it takes to complete a comprehensive training course is much shorter than the process of becoming a licensed esthetician or licensed cosmetologist. Regulations vary by state, but the industry standard in medical esthetics education is 15 days of combined classroom and hands-on clinical training. Adding the latest anti-aging treatments keeps you on the cutting edge of esthetic technology, and helps you meet the needs of your clients—as well as those of their boyfriends, girlfriends or spouses! n
Louis Silberman is president and founder of National Laser Institute, the largest cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center in North America. An expert in medical esthetics, Silberman is a medical spa owner and nationally recognized author, marketing speaker and business consultant. Contact Silberman at 800.982.6817 or louis@nlionline.com.
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photo: Kali Nine LLC/ istockphoto.com
One of the best ways to market to couples is to offer them incentives for booking the treatments at the same time, and letting them decide how they would like to schedule them.
by Su Gibson
business|
spa economics for 2014
KPIs for your spa THE BEGINNING OF A NEW YEAR gives spa directors and owners a chance to review the spa’s performance and set new goals for the next fiscal year. Granted, this is something that should be done on a continuous basis throughout the year, and annual budgets are most likely set before January 1st rolls around. Psychologically, however, the transition from one year to the next provides a touchstone with which to pause and review where the spa is headed. This is the perfect time to use key performance indicators (KPIs) that take a broad view of the business, so that you can set goals that will support the spa’s vision for the year ahead. There are many KPIs that you can use to measure the spa’s economic performance over time. Deciding which ones to focus on depends on the goals and values of each spa’s management team, but I will describe my own favorites below.
photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com
Revenue mix Reviewing this helps identify where spa revenue is coming from, so that you can make improvements in underperforming segments. For example, when looking at the breakdown of revenue streams, the retail segment might show up as an area for improvement. Boosting the percentage of retail sales compared to treatment sales will, in many cases, increase overall profitability, since retail sales have lower labor costs. There are also other benefits to increasing retail sales, which will be described later in this article. The basic formula is to take January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
each type of revenue total and divide it by the gross revenues for the spa: 2013 retail revenues divided by 2013 total revenues equals percentage of overall revenues generated from retail sales.
If the revenue per square foot numbers are low, it might be worth thinking creatively about this sort of space to see if there are any ways to gain more revenue from them, such as facility memberships or off-peak workshops. Revenue per square foot Normally a staple of purely retail environments such as boutiques and clothing stores, this KPI can serve a spa that may be underutilizing its space. Hotel and resort spas, for example, typically have more non-revenue generating space such as steam rooms, relaxation lounges, and meeting or party areas than day and medical spas. If the revenue per square foot numbers are low, it might be worth thinking creatively about this sort of space to see if there are any ways to gain more revenue from them, such as facility memberships or off-peak workshops. The revenue per square foot formula is simple: total revenues divided by total square feet of operational space. You can also break down different areas to see how they’re performing. For example: 2013 body treatment revenues divided by square footage of wet rooms equals money generated per square foot.
Revenue per available treatment hour (REVPath) A measure of productivity, this KPI was developed for the spa industry by researchers at Cornell University. Similar to the hotel industry’s revenue per available room (REVPar), REVPath looks at the money generated for every hour the spa is in operation for any period of time. This helps plan revenue management and marketing strategies. There are several ways to calculate REVPath. The simplest is to take the total treatment revenue you have made divided by the capacity you have for any given time. For example, if you have a 10room spa that’s open 10 hours a day, seven days a week, that’s a total capacity of 700 treatment hours (or 10 rooms x 10 hours x 7 days) per week. If you grossed $7,000 in treatment revenues for that week, you have made a REVPath of $100. continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 79
business|spa economics for 2014
Putting it all into practice Using these KPIs and other measures, the most successful spas seem to focus on four main areas: customer satisfaction, staffing, retailing and “the experience.”
Treatment space usage A spa version of occupancy rates, measuring the percentage of treatment space used per available treatment hour, will help you maximize your capacity for services and manage staffing levels. It may also indicate times of the year or week where operating hours should be adjusted. With a formula similar to REVPath but focused on usage rather than revenue generation, you would typically take your number of treatment rooms and generate a report of how many of them are in use on average during the times you’re trying to measure: There are many other KPIs for each segment of the business. When evaluating staff performance, for example, KPIs to consider include productivity
Retailing It is well documented that healthy retail sales in a spa environment generally support profitability and increase client return rate. If a spa’s staff members are providing educated and helpful retail recommendations to clients, the relationship between the staff, spa and client is strengthened. Thus, clients are more likely to be satisfied, return and refer new clients.
The experience
Staffing
One of the best ways to measure the experience of your spa is by regularly enlisting secret shoppers to receive services and report back about their treatment. Online reviews and social media can also be a wealth of information, provided free of charge by past clients. However, the majority of online reviewers are motivated to share their experience only by either very positive or very negative emotions, whereas secret shoppers should be able to offer more constructive feedback. Armed with these KPIs and areas in which to focus your attention, your spa is sure to have a happy, healthy, more profitable 2014! n
The spa industry has grown rapidly over the past 15 years, which has caused labor shortages in the industry’s specialized professions. This, coupled with the impact of interactions between staff members and clients on the spa experience and client satisfaction, makes staffing the most critical aspect of managing a spa. Luxurious surroundings and premium products will not make up for insufficient staffing or service that is less than excellent. Productivity and occupancy KPIs such as REVPath and treatment space usage can help you man-
Su Gibson is an independent consultant and industry lecturer at the Conrad N. Hilton College, University of Houston. With a BA in psychology, an MBA in international business and more than a decade of experience in the spa industry, she enjoys writing on the topics of health, spas and wellness.
Customer satisfaction Luxurious surroundings and premium products will not make up for insufficient staffing or service that is less than excellent.
age staffing levels to ensure adequate coverage. Resources and support for training and evaluation programs should also be in place to help staff members improve their skills and service. Efforts to reduce staff turnover will also pay off in this area.
Satisfaction will depend on each client’s expectations and how their experience compares to them. It will also depend on the value they believe they received. In other words, did they “get their money’s worth?” Return rate is the best true indicator of satisfaction, but shorter term tools include satisfaction surveys and information gathered from clients by spa staff during and after their treatments.
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photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com
(percentage of work time performing treatments or making sales), average treatment or ticket price, retail sales as a percentage of treatment sales, rebooking capture rate and request rate. The six main KPIs listed above, however, are designed to make broad decisions on an annual or quarterly basis, rather than minor operational tweaks. If you have a 10-room spa, review the hours between 7 a.m. and 8 a.m. Monday through Friday. Say you pull a report that says you have 30 weekday services at 7 a.m. last week. You would calculate 30 services divided by 50 spots (10 rooms x 1 hour x 5 days) equals 60 percent treatment space usage.
CLARIFYING THE CONFUSION ABOUT
WORKERS’ COMPENSATION
photo: Brian A. Jackson/Shutterstock.com
UNDERSTANDING MANDATORY REGULATIONS
SPA AND SALON OWNERS ALL OVER THE country unknowingly put themselves in jeopardy by either underinsuring themselves or misclassifying employees. What most don’t realize is that booth renters require workers’ compensation insurance. Failure to carry workers’ compensation leaves spa and salon owners susceptible to devastating losses in the event of a workrelated accident. Many business owners think that by labeling employees as booth renters or incorrectly classifying them as independent contractors, they can avoid buying workers’ compensation insurance. Not only can this lead to injury related liabilities, it can also wreak havoc with the IRS. Sadly, there are spa owners paying a monthly payment to the IRS for incorrect filing.
A booth renter works under contract to provide services within a spa or salon. That person’s contractual agreement designates the specific responsibilities of booth renter and salon owner— including the fees charged to the booth renter for the use of shared facilities, equipment and other resources provided by the salon. Those services may legally include the booth renter being covered under the salon’s general and professional liability insurance policy. If this coverage is part of a booth rental agreement, there are serious workers’ comp and “independent contractor” misclassification implications for the salon owner. The only real way to avoid workers’ compensation liabilities and misclassification penalties for beauty technicians working in a salon continues
BY JERRY DOORHY AND RYAN HANIGAN January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 81
business
is to establish a true independent contractor relationship with those employees. A true independent contractor must operate as a stand-alone business. That technician must do their own bookkeeping and scheduling, and hire their own janitorial services. “Shared” services may be provided by the salon only if they are specifically itemized and paid by the independent contractor in a detailed contractual agreement, and only if all client payments and tips aren’t intertwined with the salon’s account. All of that contractor’s income and expenses must be accurately reported in their personal annual tax returns, including self-employment tax.
The independent contractor is also responsible for their own equipment, supplies, tools and advertising. In addition, the contractor business receives and posts their own state license and municipal business permit to stand apart from the establishment where that technician works. A high percentage of spa and salon employees do not qualify as true independent contractors. Therefore, workers’ compensation regulations and potentially hazardous misclassification penalties will likely apply to most booth renting employees. Check your state guidelines to verify if you are even allowed to rent booths in your spa.
photo: Kenneth Man/Shutterstock.com
Even if you hire one employee to work at the front desk for minimum wage, you need to carry workers’ compensation. Without workers’ comp, spa owners are required to provide these benefits out of pocket.
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business|clarifying the confusion about workers’ compensation
Booth renting clients
photo:wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com
n 91% were unaware that they needed worker’s compensation n 7% were aware, and had suffered loss in the past n 2% were aware, and had not suffered any previous loss
Spa owners face the risk of criminal prosecution for failing to provide pre-accidental coverage to all booth renters working in their place of business. These financial and legal penalties are really serious if the injured booth renter did not maintain general or professional liability insurance that is separate from the salon’s policy. This important legality is generally ignored or misinterpreted by salon owners, booth renters and even most insurance agents. Make sure you are not labeling employees as booth renters as a way around state regulations. But even if you hire one employee to work at the front desk for minimum wage, you need to carry workers’ compensation. Without workers’ comp, spa owners are required to provide these benefits out of pocket. One salon recently faced this unfortunate incident, as one of their booth renters claimed she had carpal tunnel syndrome and didn’t have her own workers’ comp insurance. The court made a judgment in favor of the booth renter, and found the salon owner responsible for covering the workers’ compensation claim. The salon owner had not purchased workers compensation insurance because she didn’t think she was responsible. This claim was settled for $127,000, and the salon owner was forced to file for bankruptcy. In addition to insurance liabilities for misclassifications and being underinsured, there is a relatively new regulatory tax focus on businesses utilizing contractors. Several states are cracking down heavily on those who incorrectly classify workers as independent. The IRS recently opened the door for companies throughout the country to “come out,” as they say, about their January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
2% 91% 7%
One salon recently faced this unfortunate incident, as one of their booth renters claimed she had carpal tunnel syndrome and didn’t have her own workers’ comp insurance.
previous, inaccurate classifications of workers. This limited offer of forgiveness is probably leading to increased audits of contract employees. Wise spa and salon owners should protect themselves with employee practices’ liability insurance. Many small businesses—especially those in the beauty industry—operate like a close-knit circle of family and friends. Unfortunately, this can often lead to business owners being sued for sexual harassment, discrimination, wrongful termination or violation of equal pay or the family medical leave act. n
Jerry Doorhy is the developer and Ryan Hanigan is an insurance specialist for SalonInsurance.com, an online insurance company specifically designed to service the beauty industry. It is part of Connor & Gallagher Insurance, a respected carrier of large commercial insurance policies. Connor & Gallagher work in partnership with The Hartford Financial S e r v i c e s G ro u p o n eSalonInsurance.com to provide easy, affordable and reliable insurance online for the salon industry. LNEONLINE.com • Page 83
BY DAVID SUZUKI
YOUR BUSINESS, YOUR WAY!
nobody knows your business better than you One brand or many?
Most skin care manufacturers would like you to carry one brand of products only—their brand. While I understand their objective, there is only one winner with this formulation, and it is not you. Regardless of how many years they repeat this mantra, the bottom line is that this defies human nature and our society as a whole. Our culture requires choice. Taking a look in our skin care drawers at home, is there one brand that does it all? Not even close. Experts suggest that the average female consumer will use at least five different skin care and cosmetic brands throughout the day. This is one of the many reasons that the skin care industry is estimated to be worth over $43 billion in 2014! Offering two well contrasted brands in your retail lineup is a great foundation to start with. The contrast can be in price,
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photo: bikeriderlondon/Shutterstock.com
THERE IS NOTHING THAT I APPRECIATE MORE THAN a well informed business with a well communicated mission. Whether it is a waitperson at a restaurant, the concierge at a hotel or a sales consultant, being supplied with facts, choices and a sincere opinion are worth their weight in gold. Receiving this information quickly, in as complete a form as possible, allows me to make comprehensive decisions that are right for me as a consumer and right for my business. A sales consultant is an expert on their product range, and I am an expert on my own business. This is not to say that we do not need or appreciate feedback, opinion, and a broad open approach to consider other viable pathways and models. In the end though, we need to work with products and a vendor that respects who we are and our unique, individualized vision of success.
business
Agility and flexibility: Your business, your way! While many skin care manufacturers continue to attempt to force contracts, require enormous minimum buy-ins to start an account, and enforce monthly purchase quotas and other rigid parameters, forward thinking skin care manufac-
Today’s business owners require agility, flexibility and respect. They no longer want to be told how their shelves must look.
concept, philosophy and science. Make sure that there is synergy, while at the same time enough of a difference that they speak to the different segments of your client base. As forward thinking age management technology defines the future of skin care, it is very strategic to work with at least one brand of products that can be used with technology and support the results and objectives of the technology services.
Splash and accent products Once you have your two base lines in place, look to the marketplace for the best of the best “splash” or “accent” products. These products are defined by amazing results, scientific efficacy (clinical studies on key ingredients), great marketing support and perpetual education. The right splash or accent products should be strong enough to stand alone alongside your other brands, in that the marketing and packaging is complete, samples are available and the literature focused. What you are creating here is a well thought out, synergistic and exciting retail environment. And why not? Choice and selection is what every retail environment attempts to achieve, as this is what our culture expects. The caveat to your retail environment is that all of the choices have been meticulously selected by you, the leader of your tribe! January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
turers have quickly recognized that this model has come and gone. Today’s business owners require agility, flexibility and respect. They no longer want to be told how their shelves must look, how close the sink must be to their treatment table, or that they must purchase every product in a line, even if they are only using a small portion of it. In short, today’s skin therapist is going to run their business their own way, and for good reason. They know their business better than anyone! With this in mind, seek out forward thinking manufacturers who treat you the way you should be treated, as a valued client. A manufacturer who does not try to force feed you products, but rather sincerely takes the time to educate you on the practical science and use of the products so you can make your own decision as to whether or not it is right for your business.
Crazy big The majority of skin care lines boast well over 100 different products. Is this a good thing? When we think of the historical minimum opening order requirements of $3,000 to $5,000 plus, this may only realistically get you one or two of each product in the line. How much sense does that make? And how long will it take you and your team to become fluent with a line of this magnitude, incorporate it into your professional services, and know enough about any of the products to realistically prescribe a home care regimen? Forward thinking manufacturers understand that less is better, and that simplicity and basic logic are fundamental for success. Look for product lines that have 30 to 50 total products in their range, do not tolerate redundancy, are paraben free, have high percentages of forward thinking active ingredients and maintain a well thought out line in which every product brings value to the table and perpetual, continual, accessible education. Consider the Apple brand: They meet this entire criterion, and their incredible focus allows every team member to be an expert with their products. Find the Apple of skin care! continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 85
cally with technology in mind as their first priority. Look for forward thinking skin care manufacturers who base their formulations on science, the synergy and acceleration of results that can be realized when their products are used with technology, and the support that their products lend at home when used daily after the technology services. Rest assured that this breed of manufacturers will spare no expense when it comes to their formulations, as the upregulated results make their technology shine!
Education, education, education
What is the difference? Every product range is unique in terms of their philosophy, packaging, concepts, texture, smell and objective. At the same time, skin care has never been more similar, in that access to well studied, cutting-edge ingredients from around the world is increasing. The difference then becomes the percentage of active ingredients that a manufacturer chooses to use. During formulation, a forward thinking skin care manufacturer may be browsing hundreds of different ingredients in an effort to select the right cocktail for a single new product. When reviewing individual ingredient efficacy studies, there is always a minimum and maximum suggested use, which will often vary by more than a 1,000 percent. For example, the minimum suggested use may be .5 percent, and the maximum suggested use may be eight percent, with the efficacy studies proving the results when the ingredient is used in its full capacity. So why would any manufacturer use the lowest amount possible? The answer is simple—so that they can market the fact that their product contains the ingredient, and market the results obtained in the efficacy studies (omitting the fact that they are using a negligible percentage). Most importantly, they do it to keep the manufacturing costs as low as possible and their profit as high as possible. Again, this is a method that only benefits one business, and it is not yours. Look for forward thinking manufacturers who are open to sharing their efficacy studies with you (white papers), and that will confirm that they use the highest level of active ingredients possible, sparing no cost when it comes to your results. You deserve this.
Technology and products Skin care today is largely defined by the use of technology, as is the rest of our world. At the same time, there are very few product lines that are designed and developed specifi-
David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com.
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photo: Andrey Popov/Shutterstock.com
A four hour kickoff webinar at your convenience is generally a good start, followed up with eight weekly webinars of 30 to 40 minutes each.
Education is a perpetual process with no end. A good skin therapist will never stop learning, and a forward thinking skin care manufacturer will never stop teaching. The key with education, especially in today’s culture, is a little bit all the time! Not many of us have the luxury to close our business for three days while we attend 36 hours of education, and not many of us would absorb more than 20 percent of the 36 hours. If the line is simple and focused, and you are working with a good consultant, you should be able to integrate conceptually quite rapidly. A four hour kickoff webinar at your convenience is generally a good start, followed up with eight weekly webinars of 30 to 40 minutes each. Thereafter, bimonthly webinars should also be part of the equation moving forward. As you learn more, you experience more. As you experience more, you have more questions. This is all part of the evolution of becoming the best skin therapist possible. Although we are skin therapists, we are people and consumers first. We understand the need and demand for choice, and we require this from those we do business with each and every day. We also understand that the world is very different today than it was five years ago. We have watched businesses with a century of history disappear into ashes before our very eyes, proving to us that those who refuse to change, are not agile and do not work with reason and flexibility will eventually cease to exist. Look around our industry and partner with the companies that are forward thinking, flexible and agile. Find the companies that respect you, your business and your individual definition of success. Most importantly, partner with those that respect and value you as a customer. n
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #192 on reader service card
SUCCESSFUL
ANNUAL MARKETING
STRATEGIES!
Creative Calendar of Events BY LARRY OSKIN
Now is the time to quickly lock in your plans for successfully marketing your skin care clinic or spa in the New Year. Make resolutions this New Year that will truly help your business grow through a strategic investment into seasonal and annual advertising, promotions and PR programs. Sit down with your staff and professional beauty supply distributors so you can effectively map out your plans for the next year.
Set strategic marketing objectives and goals First, list your top 10 qualitative “business objectives,” as well as your matching financially based “goals” for the upcoming year. Here are a few examples: • To become known as the “BEST Day Spa” in your city • To become known as “The Top Aesthetic Experts,” “The Top Hair Removal Experts” or “The Best Spa In Town” • To become known for your signature skin care, massage and spa service treatments • To create an annual marketing calendar with bi-monthly, holiday and seasonal promotions • To increase facial treatment services by 25 percent over the previous year • To increase massage therapy services by 25 percent over the previous year • To increase spa nail care sales by 50 percent
• • • •
To increase gift certificate sales by at least 50 percent To increase hair removal service sales by 100 percent To recruit and retain at least 100 new clients per month To increase your staff by three new salon and spa professionals
Bi-monthly and seasonal marketing campaigns Purchase an annual desk calendar. Create six columns across the top for January/February, March/April, May/June, July/ August, September/October and November/December. Across the left-hand margin, write down the main service categories you offer, with your skin, massage, spa, hair, nail and retail categories. You can also add a few sub-categories. This chart will soon become a way for you to create at least one to two promotions for each of your strongest and weakest spa service categories per year. Try to seasonally plan your “bi-monthly” promotions. Today, most of your clients only come into the spa about every six to eight weeks. Most professional beauty care manufacturers and distributors plan their seasonal specials, promotions and educational offerings on a bi-monthly basis. Besides saving money from trying to create something new every month, this truly is the most effective way to successfully market your spa with seasonally updated promotions. Chart a course of coordinated marketing, advertising, public relations and promotional actions for the next 12 months. If signature facial treatments, massage
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photo: Hudiemm/ istockphoto.com
Create your annual marketing calendar.
business
Here are some examples of what to seasonally market on a bi-monthly basis. therapies or any special service is critically important to you, then plan to promote it at least two or three times per year. Your annual marketing calendar will require you to include your assigned marketing budgets for each bi-monthly promotion as well as to note if you will be doing any special advertisements, special events, printed materials and pointof-purchase merchandising.
If you want to sell more gift certificates, then plan to start promoting them at least six weeks prior to Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day and the year-end holidays. Promotional strategies You can certainly promote spa services, products and special beauty care trends at full price. Promoting any salon or spa service does not mean that you need to offer discounts. You can offer special incentives, discounts, packages, retail gifts with services with purchase options to your clients. Your entire staff needs to be educated that if you do offer discounts to increase sales volume, introduce new services or promote your business, they are sharing in the financial responsibilities. If needed, they should experience each service before the promotions, so they can talk about them with firsthand knowledge. Together, you will be investing in marketing, advertising and printing to help build your full spa business as well as their individual business potential.
Holiday and seasonal salon services There is a time to promote everything, yet timing is very important. You really must begin planning at least three months in advance of each promotion. If you want to sell more gift certificates, then plan to start promoting them at least six weeks prior to Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day and the year-end holidays. Total makeovers are great to promote any time of year, although January, spring and fall are always the best. Hair removal is perfect to promote before and during the warmest seasons each year. If you want to promote bridal and prom service packages in the spring with upstyles, manicures, pedicures and makeup applications, you must start to run advertisements and put up your in-salon merchandising materials four to eight weeks prior to the local proms.
Seasonal marketing calendars Once again, examine your new annual marketing calendar, where you can effectively promote what you want to each season, rather than just opening your salon doors for business each day.
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
JANUARY/FEBRUARY: • “New Year, New You” makeovers • Valentine’s Day gift certificates • Hair and skin conditioning treatments • Staff recruitment promotions, including lecture demonstrations at local cosmetology/esthetic schools • open on Sundays MARCH/APRIL • Spring skin care and body care rituals • Pretty for prom! Special packages, such as eyebrow arching, manicures, pedicures and makeup • Mother’s Day gift certificates • Hair removal services, including the latest wax, sugar and threading alternatives
• New spa, massage and body therapy treatments MAY/JUNE • Bare it all with professional hair removal • Bridal party packages, including upstyles, nails and makeup • Spa manicures and pedicures • Special men’s service packages • Father’s Day gift certificates JULY/AUGUST • Summer hair removal rituals • Teen makeovers and teen nights • “Back to cool” skin care and hair care product sale (i.e., Buy any three products, get one free!) • Spa series service package sale! Buy any five salon or spa services—get one free! SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER • “Fall into total makeovers” (hair, skin and nails) • Experience new spa, massage and body therapy treatments • Staff recruitment promotions (Lecture demonstrations at local cosmetology schools) • “Ladies’ Spa Night Out” (pick one or two days each week during the fall to host ladies night out) NOVEMBER/DECEMBER • “Give the gift of beauty!” (holiday gift certificate sales) • “Year of Beauty” programs • Corporate salon and spa gifting programs • Makeup applications and lessons • Annual price increases of five to eight percent continues
LNEONLINE.com • Page 89
business|successful annual marketing strategies!
While monthly email blasts are not costly, you may want to purchase a few full-color regional magazine advertisements with at least four direct mail magazine campaigns per year, while cutting back on advertising programs in newspapers and the Yellow Pages. Work with your beauty care manufacturers to promote bimonthly, holiday and seasonal service and retail product offerings. They will often offer special promotionally themed posters, counter cards, merchandising materials, samples and incentive contests that you and your staff should be ready to work with.
Annual and seasonal marketing budgets Carefully set an annual marketing, advertising and PR budget for your spa. An average marketing program should be at least five to eight percent of your projected total annual service and retail sales volume. If you are a new salon or plan to take an aggressive strategy, plan to set aside between eight and ten percent or more. In other words, for every $100,000 in total sales you plan to create, set aside at least $5,000 to $8,000 in your advertising, marketing and PR fund. Or, if you want to be more aggressive, set aside at least $8,000 to $10,000 for every $100,000 you plan to attain. You will need to responsibly set challenging, yet realistic goals.
Seasonal advertising and marketing media strategies Set aside this projected advertising budget, so you can creatively “invest” in building your brand while promoting each targeted service category through paid magazine, direct mail, email blasts, Internet/social media and TV advertising. I do not recommend the Yellow Pages, regular newspaper advertisements, radio or TV unless you are in a small city or already have multiple locations. Some of your seasonal spa marketing campaigns can be promoted with direct mail postcards, regional magazines, telephone calls, email blasts, social media, media relations campaigns or special event marketing. Contact each of your targeted local media resources. Ask them for their annual editorial and promotional calendars to see how you can integrate your annual plans with theirs. Create a special budget for each bi-monthly and seasonal sales period. While monthly email blasts are not costly, you may want to purchase a few full-color regional magazine advertisements with at least four direct mail magazine campaigns per year, while cutting back on advertising programs in newspapers and the Yellow Pages.
Gift certificate marketing Salon and spa gift cards/certificates should be creatively promoted with an exciting new twist every month and season. Like retail product sales, expanded spa gift certificate sales
should become one of your most important marketing calendar objectives and goals. Most importantly, gift cards will help to bring in a strong percentage of newly referred first-time clients.
Seasonal media and PR campaigns Make sure that you carefully review editorial calendars for your local media. Plan to time some of your holiday and seasonal promotions to match what they will feature in the local newspapers and magazines. Plan to create press releases with professional high resolution photographs and cover pitch letters that will inspire the local media to work with you each season as you promote new skin care trends, gifts of beauty, hair removal alternatives or anything else. Just remember that you must present your seasonal PR campaigns in a non-commercial manner while attempting to educate the local community on spa services and products. You must also do so at least three to four months in advance, as major media does work that far ahead of time. Visual marketing extra! Plan for an annual spa photography session to promote your facilities, staff, each of your signature services and best products to support your annual marketing calendar.
Plan your work and work your plan You cannot wait for the magical client bus to land at the front door of your salon or spa each day, week and season anymore. With a full-service salon in virtually every shopping center today, you must aggressively make the determination to set yourself ahead of the competition with a comprehensive spa marketing strategy. It’s time to show your staff and your clients the complete array of your esthetic and spa service specialties. Don’t just open the door each morning waiting for sales to improve. Create a plan of action and work your plan. To achieve success with record-breaking results, you need to be prepared for the coming year. n Larry Oskin is president of Marketing Solutions, Inc., a full-service marketing, advertising and PR agency specializing in the professional beauty business. Clients include salons, day spas, medical clinics, manufacturers, associations and beauty care entrepreneurs from across North America. For more information contact Marketing Solutions in Fairfax, VA at 703.359.6000, email LOskin@ MktgSols.com or visitMktgSols.com and ArtBeautique.com.
Page 90 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Name of Artist/Shutterstock.com
Seasonal salon retail product promotions
STRAIGHTFORWARD INSURANCE
NEW INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTOR Circadia by Dr. Pugliese is expanding their international market with the addition of the Septima M, LLC team into the family of international distributors. Circadia CEO Michael Q. Pugliese recently traveled to Moscow to introduce the Circadia by Dr. Pugliese product line for distribution in Russia. circadia.com
NOTEWORTHY AWARD Tina Zillmann is featured in a video that won a 2013 Bronze Telly Award. This cosmetic procedure training video, Anti-Aging Treatments, Microdermabrasion Crystal-Free Techniques from Aesthetic VideoSource, is about how estheticians and dermatologists use crystal-free microdermabrasion techniques in combination with salicylic acid, glycolic acid, retinol peels and melanin suppressing ingredients to turn back the effects of time for younger-looking skin. Zillmann is the featured expert in this online training video and DVD for estheticians, skin care schools and skin care specialists who work with the patients of dermatologists and plastic surgeons. videoshelf.com 800.414.2434 January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
GREAT CAUSE Éminence Organic Skin Care celebrates the first anniversary of an inspiring environmental initiative. After one year of their Forests for the Future initiative, Éminence has planted 1.5 million trees! Through an inspiring partnership with Trees for the Future, Éminence helps save the planet one product and one tree at a time. “We are thrilled to be partnering with Éminence Organic Skin Care for their Forests for the Future initiative, where they plant a tree for every product that they sell,” says John Leary, executive director of Trees for the Future. “The donations from Éminence have helped us plant over one million trees with communities in such areas as Burundi, Uganda and Ghana.” eminenceorganics.com 888.747.6342 treesforthefuture.org
BIZNEWS
Connor & Gallagher unveil eSalonInsurance.com, an insurance company engineered specifically to service the salon and spa industries. Beauty business owners are able to buy all of their insurance needs completely online in as little as 15 minutes at eSalonInsurance.com. This eliminates comparison shopping, in-person meetings and other time wasters. Underwriting is done by The Harford, which allows eSalonInsurance.com to offer prices about 20 percent lower than competitors, says the company. eSalonInsurance.com congalins.com 630.737.9361
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE MORE NEWS
LNEONLINE.com • Page 91
ENVIRONMENTAL SOLUTION NEW WEBSITE LAUNCH SpaRitual has unveiled its
BIZNEWS
revamped website, which includes a number of new components designed to allow for a more interactive experience as well as a closer look at the brand’s philosophy. The new site features a “Slow Beauty” blog facilitated by founder Shel Pink, a “Spa Spotlight” section, which features spa partners that carry SpaRitual product lines, and the option to purchase products directly from the site. sparitual.com 818.988.2228
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE
MUSICAL MARKETING Private Label Music, a spa music provider, has a new Music Download Card program, where a free song with a code is handed out during check-in or checkout at spas around the globe. Music from a catalog of over 17,000 songs in 30 styles can be programmed online, and the spa director can select his or her favorite 12-13 songs for the final branded album. PLM creates and uploads the album, adds a spa’s logo and photo and keeps track of the downloads. Resort and destination spas can offer the card to guests who book a spa appointment, along with a discount or something similar. This drives immediate traffic to the spa. The download cards can even carry a magnetic strip in order to double as keys for hotel rooms at resort and destination spa properties. Thus, the user can leave with the room key and extend the brand long after they leave. privatelabelmusic.com 818.705.0800
DermaMed Solutions has joined the CarbonFree® Partnership program. Operated by Carbonfund.org Foundation, the program helps individuals and businesses understand climate change and develop practical, costeffective solutions to slow, stop and reduce the climate crisis. DermaMed has joined the CarbonFree Partnership program to neutralize their carbon footprint by supporting clean air technology and carbon reduction projects in the U.S. “It’s an important step towards ensuring a healthier earth,” says DermaMed president Mark Pinsley. “DermaMed Solutions chose to partner with Carbonfund.org because we wish we could do more ... Carbonfund.org is a great way to make a difference. We are happy Carbonfund.org is here to help!” DermaMedSolutions.com Carbonfund.org
GENERATE MORE REVENUE SpaBooker recently launched Promote, a new automated email marketing tool that helps drive loyalty and increase revenues for small-to-medium sized businesses. With Promote, businesses automatically book more appointments from existing clients by offering them targeted discounts based on their last visit. “When it comes to customer relationship management, we are the only company that enables local business to natively track the customer from initial booking, to payment, and to repeat purchase in one easy app,” said Josh McCarter, CEO of SpaBooker. “SpaBooker remembers your customers for you, and Promote knows how to bring them back.” Promote taps into the email list already stored in a SpaBooker client’s account and then sends an attractive offer to those that haven’t booked their next appointment yet. Spas can customize both the depth of the discount and frequency of communication based on their individual business needs. spa-booker.com 866.966.9798
Page 92 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
REDEFINES YOUR CURVES REDEFINES YOUR CURVES SLIM, FIRM AND TONE An Absolute Revolution in Body Wraps! IN SPA BIOSLIMMING WRAP Helps to reduce 1-4cm (1-2.5 inches) per measured area in only 60 mins*! Dramatically decreases the appearance of fat deposits and cellulite by 47% and helps decrease the appearance of stretch marks. 98% of women saw improvement of “orange peel” skin with a reduction of cellulite in just two weeks. 98% of women observed a decrease of 1 to 2.5 inches per measured area after one treatment. 100% found the treatment pleasant to have. 97% felt a draining sensation. 93% found that their skin was smoother* (*Clinical Study France, Lyon 2012)
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wellness tourism trends by Camille Hoheb
Mind matters Consumers have caught onto mindful vacations that offer mental restoration. Practices learned on a trip, such as meditation, yoga, qi gong and journaling, can be incorporated at home to help manage stress, improve cognitive capacity and maintain emotional equilibrium.
the pace in order to sip, savor and revel in the vacation experience.
Affluent and altruistic Mindsets have shifted away from tourist behavior, and a keen interest has developed in community-based exploration, where getting to know the locals in a meaningful way sweetens the experience.
Breaking bread with wellness
A burgeoning secondary wellness market
Food tourism is a big trend, intersecting with wellness travel. In addition to the physical aspect of sustenance, food tours, cooking classes, agriculture and farm-to-table experiences speak to the emotional, social, intellectual and sustainable aspects of well-being.
There is a large segment of travelers who may not opt for wellness retreats or tours, but are committed to maintaining their healthy lifestyle on the road. Air transit companies and hotels are investing resources to attract these guests, including both business and leisure travelers.
Vacation Rx
Spas on a mission
Physicians are now prescribing vacations as an antidote to stress. Their new line could be: “Take two weeks and call me when you get back.” Doctors’ orders for physical activity in parks are also being written to help combat obesity and diabetes in children.
The spa industry is staking a claim on wellness tourism and wellness in general. Eager to shake the image of pampering for the affluent, spas are rebranding as wellness providers to attract a larger market. n
Looking for personal enrichment
Camille Hoheb is the founder of Well ness Tourism Worldwide and editor of Wellness Travel Journal. She is a speaker, researcher and expert in wellness travel. Hoheb is widely quoted as an industry leader and lectures worldwide. She re ceived her master’s degree in health care administration and holds several certi fications in complementary medicine from the National Institutes of Health. Hoheb writes about adventure travel for the mind, body and spirit. For more information, visit wellnesstourismworld wide.com, wellnesstraveljournal.com or camillehoheb.com.
With the growing interest in trips to enhance the mind, body and spirit, wellness tourism has created a new niche for travel agents to grow or expand their business while offering a personally and professionally rewarding career specialty.
With the understanding that wellness is about more than fitness and nutrition, consumers are choosing trips that either focus solely on personal enrichment or at least make it a part of their travel plans. Many consumers are viewing vacations, weekend getaways and retreats as catalysts for change.
La local vita
Slow travel
Consumers have developed a deeper appreciation for locally relevant and authentic experiences with an emphasis on living “la local vita” (the local life).
Have you ever felt pressured on your vacation to run around, crossing off sites and activities from a checklist of things to see and do? Slow travel advocates changing
The rise of wellness travel agents
Affluent travelers value experiences that connect them to charitable causes and local communities. Volunteering on vacation has become increasingly popular, and research shows that altruism can improve well-being.
Page 94 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Harish Marnad /Shutterstock.com
WELLNESS TRAVEL IS CURRENTLY enjoying a tremendous surge in interest. Many people today are choosing experiences over material things, and vacations are no longer viewed as luxuries. Data shows that spa goers and consumers view vacations as an important way to improve health, happiness and productivity. Leisure travel is often a catalyst for transformation, and consumers view wellness travel as a personal investment. While last year’s forecast focused on the impact of wellness on air transit, hotel accommodation and destinations, this year’s report is focused on business and marketing strategy, and encourages consumers and businesses to think about well-being and vacation travel in new ways. The multi-dimensionality of wellness opens the door to a whole new world, and so does travel.
Nighttime Repair Plus and Vitamin C Reversal Serum Optimal delivery for stable Vitamin C
These formulas boast the effective combination of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and BV-OSC (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate), the two most stable and active forms of topical Vitamin C. L-ergothioneine, an amino acid with ancillary antioxidant properties, helps to maximize Vitamin C performance. MATRIXYL®synthe’6™ along with Vitamin A ester (retinyl acetate) provide additional collagen-boosting power and dermal matrix repair. Arabidopsis Thaliana extract and Hyaluronic acid round out this powerhouse collection of anti-aging weapons by assisting in DNA repair and skin hydration.
See the difference, by enhancing skin’s natural cycles of Defense and Repair.
Upcoming Events Hawaii Spa Marketplace Jan 5-6, 2014 Honolulu, HI
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Jan 26, 2014 Delray Beach, FL
Committed to bringing you the latest technology in skin science through education and innovative product development. 800.630.4710 | Circadia.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #101
organic & wellness
Eyes so bright shine tonight eat right for your eye color Iridology helps identify inherited emotional patterns, which can create or maintain physical symptoms, as well as identify lessons or challenges and gifts or talents available to us.
AS I CONTINUE MY “MASTER” STUDIES IN iridology, I have become very interested in the direct connection between our iris constitution, nutrition and the skin. It is no surprise to me that the iris holds the key to our genetic makeup, and reveals the strengths and potential deficiencies of our body system, just by knowing the color of one’s irides. I could begin to assess strengths and potential deficiencies in my clients’ body systems long before I ever took a closer look into their eyes, and from this I could better assess their nutritional needs and deficiencies!
Basic overview of iridology The International Iridology Practitioners Asso ciation (IIPA) states that iridology is “the study of the iris, or colored part, of the eye.” This structure has detailed fibers and pigmentation that reflects information about our physical and psychological makeup. It identifies inherited dispositions (how our body reacts to our environment, and what symptoms are most likely to occur), risks (what areas or organ systems are more likely to have symptoms) and future challenges (where we are likely to have more problems as we age). Iridology helps identify inherited emotional patterns, which can create or maintain physical symptoms, as well as challenges, gifts or talents available to us.
What the color of your iris reveals
BY NINA CURTIS
BROWN EYES: A dark brown iris with a densely pigmented anterior border layer indicates a hematogenic iris constitution. The potential deficient characteristics found in this constitution can be:
• Tendency for anemia and circulatory insufficiency • Disturbances in gastrointestinal tract, digestive and eliminative • Inability to store essential minerals • Liver, gallbladder and spleen insufficiency WAYS TO STRENGTHEN AND SUPPORT THE HEMATOGENIC CONSTITUTION: • Build the blood and support the cardiovascular system with dark leafy greens, beets, black berries, black cherries, red cabbage, Concord grapes, spinach, alfalfa and watercress, garlic, onions and cayenne pepper. • Eat foods high in fiber, such as vegetables, whole grains, legumes, fruits, nuts, seeds, rice bran and oat bran. Avoid processed food, fried foods and heated oils. • Eat a diet rich in “live” enzymes, including fruits, vegetables, spouted seeds and nuts. • Clean the blood by eating foods high in chlorophyll (green foods) and wheatgrass. • Include plenty of minerals and liquid trace minerals in the diet. Foods high in minerals are all vegetable juices and nut-seed milks. BLUE EYES: A genetic blue color indicates a lym phatic iris constitution. The potential deficient characteristics found in this constitution can be: • Skin afflictions such as psoriasis, eczema, dandruff and dry skin • Mucus arising from an overactive lymph system • Arthritis, rheumatic disorders, stiffness and aching muscles
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photo: Aleksandra Kovac/Shutterstock.com
• Overstressed kidneys, adrenal weakness, thyroid insufficiency and digestive weakness WAYS TO STRENGTHEN AND SUPPORT THE LYMPHATIC CONSTITUTION: • Drink plenty of water, half your weight in ounces. • Eliminate mucus forming foods such as dairy, wheat and processed sugar products. • Increase intake of vegetables and raw vegetable juices, especially those high in sodium that include celery, beet tops, kale, asparagus, okra, cucumbers, watermelon (if there is no Candida), strawberries, sprouts and apples to support the skin, lymphatic system and kidney function.
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
• Digestive enzymes can help to improve digestion, and “living” foods high in enzymes can promote lymphatic cleansing. • Cleanse the kidneys with water, parsley juice, watermelon seed tea, pomegranate juice, lemon juice and raw apple cider vinegar in water. HAZEL OR GREEN EYES: A light brown iris with brown pigmentation in the anterior border layer indicates a biliary iris constitution. The potential deficient characteristics found in this constitution can be: • Liver and gallbladder insufficiencies • Gastrointestinal disturbances and digestive weakness continues
There can be some “layover” in genetic tendencies, and all can be strengthened and supported with proper nutrition and a healthy lifestyle that includes exercise, deep breathing, rest and restoration.
LNEONLINE.com • Page 97
organic & wellness • Disturbances such as constipation, diarrhea, flatulence, blood sugar highs and lows • Weakness in pancreas function WAYS TO STRENGTHEN AND SUPPORT THE BILIARY CONSTITUTION: • Increase vegetable intake, especially green, red, yellow and orange vegetables. • Drink plenty of water, approximately half your weight in ounces. • Eat a diet rich in enzymatic foods, including raw sauerkraut. • Consume wheatgrass, chlorella and chlorophyll; these are all great for the liver. • Drink fresh raw vegetable juices of carrot and beet in small amounts, as well as celery, spinach, parsley, cucumber, kale, dandelion and watercress.
Be mindful of the fact that we all need a full spectrum of nutrients in our diets for proper overall balance.
• Eliminate all heated oils, deep fried foods, animal fats and hydrogenated oils. Choose “good” fats such as cold pressed flax, pumpkin seed, borage and olive oils, and avoid heating these oils. • Eliminate processed sweets, table salt, alcohol, caffeine, dairy and wheat. • If blood sugar is out of balance, eliminate white sugar and even honey, maple syrup and fruits high in sugar content. Stevia is a good alternative. There can be some “layover” in genetic tendencies, and all can be strengthened and supported with proper nutrition and a healthy lifestyle that includes exercise, deep breathing, rest and restoration.
Eat right for your eye color recipes Here are a few recipes that support the different eye color constitutions, and specify the key nutrients that most strongly support one’s eye color. Be mindful of the fact that we all need a full spectrum of nutrients in our diets for proper overall balance. Try these recipes and share them with others. Each recipe is delicious as well as nutritious, and can be offered in any spa. *Use all organic ingredients as much as possible.
Blueberry supreme smoothie (2 servings) Hematogenic eye constitution (brown) 2 cups almond milk* 1 cup frozen organic blueberries 1 cup baby spinach 1 ripe banana 2 dates 1 teaspoon Vanilla Extract (optional) *To make almond milk, mix 1 cup sprouted almonds with 3 cups purified water. Blend completely and filter through nut milk bag (keep almond pulp to make cookies, cakes, pies, bread, etc.). Blend all ingredients in a high performance blender until smooth and creamy.
Kickin’ red cabbage apple juice (2 servings)
Celery and cucumber boats (8–12 servings) Lymphatic eye constitution (blue) 8 Stalks Celery 2 Cucumbers Wash and dry celery stalks and cucumbers. Cut cucumbers in half and scoop out seeds (retain cucumber seeds to use in green smoothies, soups, etc). Page 98 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Handmade Pictures/Shutterstock.com
Hematogenic eye constitution (brown) ½ Red Cabbage head 3 Apples (Fuji, Pink Lady, etc.) 1 Lemon 1 inch ginger root Push all ingredients through your juicer.
organic & wellness|eyes so bright shine tonight
Rice bran, alfalfa sprouts, kelp and oat straw tea are also excellent nutrients that support healthy skin. Here’s to your health, wellness and beauty!
Cashew cheese herb spread (makes 2 cups) 2 cups cashews (soak 2 – 3 hours) 1/3 - 1/2 cup purified water 1- 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons fresh dill, minced (or 2 teaspoons dried) 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced 1 tablespoon mellow white miso 1 medium garlic clove, crushed 1 teaspoon celery seasoning 1/2 – 1 teaspoon pink salt, to taste Dash white pepper Drain cashews and place in blender with water and lemon juice. Blend until smooth. Transfer mixture into a bowl and add in remaining ingredients until well blended and smooth. Fill celery stalks and cucumbers with cashew cheese herb spread and cut to ½, 1 or 2 inches in length. Store cashew cheese herb spread in a sealed glass container in the refrigerator for up to three days.
Rainbow chard and kale salad (4 servings)
photo: PhotoSGH /Shutterstock.com
Biliary eye constitution (mixed: green, hazel, light brown) 1 head Kale (use salt to massage kale to “wilt”) 1 head Rainbow Chard (chopped) 1- 2 cups diced yellow tomato 1 cup grated carrots 1 cup grated beets ½ cup red onion, diced 1 tablespoon lemon juice to wilt Kale Pink Himalayan Salt to wilt Kale Massage kale with lemon and salt until “wilted,” add all other ingredients and toss lightly with lemon herb avocado dressing to coat. Be careful not to oversaturate.
Lemon herb avocado dressing (4 servings) served with rainbow chard and kale salad Tri constitutional ¼ cup Olive Oil ¼ cup Flax seed Oil ¼ cup fresh squeezed lemon juice January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
½ Avocado 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro 1- 2 tablespoons coconut nectar (to taste) 1 teaspoon Dulse flakes 1 medium clove garlic, crushed ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon Italian seasoning (optional) Pinch of cayenne pepper Combine all ingredients in a blender and process until smooth, add avocado last. Store dressing in a sealed glass jar in the refrigerator, it will keep for up to two weeks.
Food for thought and the skin Iridology assessments can truly support and enhance one’s esthetic practice while expanding our knowledge of the human body beyond just the skin it’s in. This assessment tool can offer the esthetician a point of difference in their business, along with advancing one’s knowledge base and the ability to provide clients with effective treatments and long term results. By just understanding the different eye color constitutions, we can begin to better understand some of our clients’ underlying deficiencies, and ways to help to strengthen and support them. Remember that foods that are especially good for the skin are those containing silicon, zinc, sodium, potassium, niacin and vitamins A, B, C, D and E. Rice bran, alfalfa sprouts, kelp and oat straw tea are also excellent nutrients that support healthy skin. Here’s to your health, wellness and beauty! n
Nina Curtis is principal of Curtis Communications, and consults for leading companies in the personal care industry. With more than 20 years of ex perience and an MBA from Pepperdine University, Curtis is passionate about excellence through education. She holds certifications in aromatherapy, reflexology, acupressure and color therapy, and has been instrumental in the development and execution of training modules and programs for salons and spas across the country. LNEONLINE.com • Page 99
beauty,
BLING AND BALANCE
Bling.
It’s an interesting word, one that has come to define almost any accessory used to adorn one’s body or appearance. This includes rings for the ears, toes, nose, lip, belly button and unmentionable places, as well as bracelets, anklets, necklaces and even tiaras. These items are among the many ways we make a statement about who we are, how we feel about ourselves and the place we hold amongst our peers and the culture in general. Bling is not new, and it seems that virtually every substance we can form, mold, bend, twist or shape in other ways has been used for adornment. This includes bone, wood, clay, semi-pre-
cious and precious stones, grasses, metals and various forms of plastic. While looking at all of these expressions and why we do what we do would be both fun and interesting, I want to limit the fun and interesting information to focus on the use of metals—and especially how they can help or hinder us in health and healing. The metals this article focuses on are gold, silver and copper. These metals are discussed particularly from the tradition of Ayurveda, the science of well-being from the East. Over the course of human civilization, these three metals have been revered in many ways. Not only have they been utilized in the way we see
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photo: luminaimages/Shutterstock.com
TREATMENTS AND TOOLS
organic & wellness the body at a deep, cellular level. Then there are colloidals, which are made by running electrical currents through these metals in a glass jar. What results is a liquid with microscopic amounts of these metals, which, again, are used for medicinal purposes. The most commonly known one is colloidal silver, which is used in both topical and ingested healing preparations. Ayurveda teaches us that gold is particularly good for the nerves, supporting what is known in Ayurveda as the Vata Dosha. Gold is warming and uplifting, and helps to brighten the mind. It is good for memory and increases our general stamina. In refined forms, such as in basmas and colloidal-like substances, it is also a powerful substance for the heart, used especially when people are feeling generally weak. When worn, gold is more beneficial on the upper parts of the body than the lower parts, such as the feet. In the Hindu tradition, it is taught that one should not wear gold toe rings. It is an insult to the goddess Lakshmi, and may result in the loss—or squandering—of wealth. From an esthetic point of view, gold rollers on the skin were used by Chinese women before bedtime. The beauty industry looks to specific biochemical parameters to justify creating gold masks and flecks within products (i.e., collagen enhancing properties that gold reportedly has). However, from an Ayurvedic point of view, anything that helps to balance Vata will re-hydrate tissue and calm and brighten the mind. If one has access to gold to do that, what a delightful way to lift the stress of the day from the face. Beyond product itself, it may even be a simple daily wellness practice to take a ring or other jewelry item with gold in it and roll it gently over the face, especially the forehead region and temples before bedtime.
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Looking at silver, this precious metal is said to have a cooling influence on our bodies and minds. Thus, it is considered to be balancing for the Pitta, Ayurveda’s more fiery dosha. It can generally be worn anywhere, including the feet. Ayurveda teaches that to help balance a particularly challenging menstrual cycle, women should wear silver toe rings, especially on the second and third toes. More than any other body-mind type, the acidity of Pitta skin may cause the common greening of the skin or tarnishing of the silver. Although this may not look nice, it is actually a healthy, mild detoxification. continues
BY ROBERT SACHS
them as physical objects for adornment and healing, but all three of these substances are also used in what are called “basma” and colloidal forms. A basma is a substance in Ayurveda that is heated to extreme temperatures and turned to ash. This purifies the substance of any possible toxic effects. Thus, the ash of copper, silver and gold—to name just three basmas—are added to medications, and create very deep and lasting health promoting effects in the body. Believe it or not, other basmas include precious and semi-precious stones, even mercury! In Tibetan Ayurveda, there are “precious pills” that contain these basmas. They are taken sparingly, as they have effects that help to rebuild
Ayurveda teaches us that gold is particularly good for the nerves, supporting what is known in Ayurveda as the Vata Dosha.
LNEONLINE.com • Page 101
organic & wellness|beauty, bling and balance
master physician and healer Vasant Lad. For obesity and weight loss in general, wash 10 pennies in lime water, take the cleansed pennies, place them in a quart of water and bring to a boil until half of the water remains. Take two teaspoons of this water three times a day for a month. Imagine, a remedy that costs 10 cents! A copper bracelet can be worn to support weight loss as well.
Then there is copper. Although many may not think of this as being a precious metal, its deep hue, versatility and healing properties make it sought after for housewares, jewelry, healing tools and internal use. Copper is considered an ideal metal for the Kapha, a big boned body type with more dense, earthy tissues. It is warming, stimulating and helps with the elimination of excess fat in the body, to name just one of its many healing properties. The metal kansa (pronounced kahn-sah) is especially used for healing and esthetic purposes. Made from copper and tin, it is humanity’s first alloy, with remarkable electro-magnetic sensitivity. We consider that kansa massage tools will be the massage and esthetic tools of the 21st century. A daily habit for heart health is to pour fresh water into a copper cup and allow it to stand overnight, then drink it in the morning. Another amazing copper remedy is shared by Ayurvedic
Robert Sachs is a coun selor, licensed massage therapist and educa tor. He is the author of Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World and coau thor with Melanie Sachs of Ayurvedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at DiamondWayAyurveda.com, email him at ayurveda8@earthlink.net, call him at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291.
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photo: Humbak /Shutterstock.com
A daily habit for heart health is to pour fresh water into a copper cup and allow it to stand overnight, then drink it in the morning.
Colloidal and silver infused waters are used internally to deal with inflammation, heartburn and fevers. It promotes an increase in stamina and supports immunity. In Ayurvedic terms, the people who do not do well with silver on them or take it internally are those who are already cooler or colder in nature; in Ayurveda this is known as a Kapha body-mind type.
To cover all the bases in both Indian and Tibetan Ayurveda, wearing three-metal bracelets are recommended for general well-being. The best ones are copper, silver and gold. But copper, silver and brass can also have beneficial results. In particular, such a three-metal bracelet is often suggested to help with the aches and pains of arthritis. There are a few other general guidelines that are useful, both in terms of bling and health: Ayurveda suggests that one never wears a ring on the middle finger. While other metals can have healing properties, such as tin, iron and even lead, they are usually taken in purified forms (colloidals and basmas) rather than worn or used as massage tools. While stainless steel is relatively non-toxic but very magnetic, other metals such as aluminum and platinum are best avoided in jewelry. Lastly, while piercing may seem fashionable, several sites on the body are best avoided (i.e., tongues, eyelids, nipples, navels and sex organs). If you do have piercings in one of these areas, own bling of questionable metal, or are using precious metals (but in unhelpful ways), don’t take my word for it—experiment. Remove these items and see how you feel after three to four weeks. Wouldn’t it be great if bling not only looked good, but felt good and did good as well? n
Satin Smooth® Chocolate Contouring Lotion is infused with powerful antioxidants made of natural homeopathic herbs and a blend of pure cocoa, plants and flowers. These ingredients form a hydrating and lubricating lotion that facilitate the movement of SmoothSculpt™ cupping attachments, says the company. The formula of homeopathic ingredients includes ivy, juniper and dandelion, and aids in detoxification and cleansing. satinsmooth.com 800.726.4204
SCENTED SENSATION The LOVE Lavender Rosemary Handmade Soap from Soaps to Live by is handmade with organic coconut oil and infused with lavender essential oil. A touch of rosemary extract is added for its powerful astringent properties that help to reduce oil, as well as refresh and rejuvenate the skin. Only sustainable palm oils are used in the formula, says the company. soapstoliveby.com 303.482.2988
NATURAL ALTERNATIVE Salis Skincare is a holistic and organic skin care line. The salt in all Salis Skincare scrubs has anti-bacterial properties that help to heal the skin, says the company. Only a small number of ingredients is used in the products, including certified organic jojoba oil. The goal of the line is to help heal the skin without the use of fillers. salisskincare.com 801.367.5141
COMING UP ROSES The Rose Petal Whipped Moisturizer from ilike organic skin care hydrates, nourishes and restores skin prone to eczema, allergies and inflammation, says the company. Rose oil tones, lifts and replenishes a lack of natural oils in the skin, while vitamin C provides antioxidant protection, and vitamin E helps smooth out scars and thick skin. Corn germ oil is included to keep the skin supple and radiant. szepelet.com 888.290.6238
ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS
TIGHT AND TONED
ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES MORE NEWS
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 103
ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS
COMPLEXION RENEWAL
POTENT BLEND M.A.D Skincare combines the best that nature and science have to offer in their Eye Transformation Serum. The lightweight, multi-stem cell, multipeptide infused complex is designed to protect, hydrate and nourish critical areas around the eyes. Key ingredients include the multi-peptide anti-aging complex and stem cell extracts of apple, grape and Alp rose. mad-skincare.com 855.409.7546
The Illuminating Facial Polish from LaVigne Organic Skin Care invigorates dull-looking skin with the centuries-old beauty secret of mildly exfoliating rice powder and naturally occurring papain enzymes. This 100 percent natural, preservative-free organic scrub removes dead skin cells, soothes inflammation and balances skin tone, resulting in smooth, radiant skin, says the company. lavigneorganics.com 866.931.6769
SKIN RESTORATION
BUFF AND BEAUTIFUL Hip e Chick’s Organic Sugar Body Scrub is a great product to help your clients relax. The handmade product includes ingredients such as the purest raw virgin coconut oil, shea butter, kukui nut oil, vitamin E and sugar. Together these ingredients make a body scrub that works perfectly to exfoliate, hydrate and nourish skin. The unique body scrub can also be used to shave the legs and face, says the company. hipechick.com
The skin mending properties of calendula and the moisturizing capabilities of olive and jojoba oils make this lavender-scented salve unique. The Original Calendula Super Salve by G.B. Proudfoot’s is great for stretch marks, dry skin, chapped skin, cracked hands and feet or any problem skin that needs a little healing. It does wonders for moisturizing the face as well, says the company. gbproudfoots.com 480.319.6316
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The Dinner Smoothie Night Cream from Skin Nutrition is a nutrient dense evening restoration treatment. It is formulated with active plant cells, organic superfood extracts and high levels of resveratrol, hyaluronic acid and tocotrienols from organic essential oils. It provides powerful cell rejuvenation benefits, maximum antioxidant protection, excellent wrinkle reduction and hydration properties, says the company. skinnutrition.com 949.200.4602
COCOA DELIGHT The Sundae Best Chocolate Softening Mask from Farmhouse Fresh is a moisturizing, nourishing face mask for smoother, more youthful looking skin. Formulated with coconut milk, cocoa and honey, it softens and calms as ginseng extract conditions skin for a silky-smooth feel. CoQ10 works to combat free radical-damage to deliver an even-toned, radiant complexion, says the company. farmhousefreshgoods.com 888.773.9626
MELTED MAGIC The Chocolate Moisturizing Sugar Scrub Squares from Sans Skincare are small squares of creamy, whipped, nourishing plant oils and butters, mixed with wonderfully exfoliating pure cane sugar. Each square is just the right size to fit into the palm of a hand, and the perfect size for one shower, says the company. The squares melt as they warm in the shower, and can be rubbed anywhere on the skin that needs extra exfoliation. They come in a variety of mouth-watering flavors. sansskincare.com
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LUSCIOUS SPREAD The Whipped Body Butter from Evolve Skin is a deeply moisturizing product with an unbelievably light texture! The concentrated whipped formula melts like butter and penetrates deeply into skin for all day moisture with a beautiful glow. The organic, unrefined shea butter is antiinflammatory, working to soothe dry, cracked skin and promote cell growth, says the company. Other key ingredients include organic extra-virgin coconut oil, extra virgin olive oil and vitamins A and E. evolveskinproducts.com 703.554.3510
ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS
SWEET REFRESHMENT
ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES
LNEONLINE.com • Page 105
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pump up the volume! by Mary Turner
Strip lashes Strip lashes are variegated lengths of natural hair or synthetics arranged in a single strip or line for one-step application. These have been the most commonly used form of lash enhancement for years by the entertainment and fashion industry as well as partygoers. These strips are generally applied to the ledge of the eyelid with a washable glue that is easily removed with water. Strip lashes are perfect for onetime use.
Cluster lashes Cluster lashes are small clumps of tied or machine lashes woven together in three to four synthetic or natural hairs per piece. This type quickly gives a fuller look and is glued in between the natural lashes
stant gratification and a level of beauty they may not have experienced before. Lash enhancements are one of the top income driving services performed at my own spa. Our individual lash extension clients return again and again,
The most natural looking of all lash enhancement applications, individual lash extensions are single synthetic, natural hair or mink lashes that are applied on a 1:1 ratio to one’s natural lashes. with a water washable glue, producing a more intense lash line, or just a bit of fullness wherever it is desired. They can last from one to seven days, depending on the care and adhesives used.
Individual lash extensions The most natural looking of all lash enhancement applications, individual lash extensions are single synthetic, natural hair or mink lashes that are applied on a 1:1 ratio to one’s natural lashes. Average application time can be up to two hours, and lashes last anywhere from two to six weeks, depending on the speed of natural hair growth. These lashes are not meant to be removed, but to grow and fall out naturally with the lash shedding cycle. If you are not currently offering lash enhancement services in your business, you are missing a great opportunity to bring in many new clients and present an exciting service to your current clients. Lash services are not only profitable, they give the technician and the recipient in-
some even booking recurring appointments a year ahead of time to make sure they are able to get their lashes filled. A top lashologist can see up to 200 clients each month, generating a huge income stream for herself and the spa! Don’t forget to include retail specific products to condition and fortify the lashes. Lashes are serious business that can greatly boost your bottom line! So pump up the volume of your checking account and your clients’ lashes by adding lash services to your menu in 2014—you’ll be batting your eyes at a profitable new year! n
Mary Turner is the owner of Mary Turner Skin Care and Day Spa in New Castle, PA. Licensed since 1983, she has been a makeup artist for runway modeling, professional modeling shoots and television. Turner is the director of the National Aesthetic Spa Network for the Northeast.
Page 106 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Image Source
MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH LASHES started many years ago. I adored long, sweeping lashes, and secretly would sneak my mother’s cake mascara—the one in the tiny red tray with the sliding top. It had to be dampened with water, and was applied with a small black brush. In 1917, Eugene Rimmel created the first packaged cosmetic mascara. Produced from a blend of petroleum and black coal dust, the history of mascara began with a cake mascara. Although it has been reformulated, it can still be found today. Mascaras were introduced from this colored tube, and women were soon fluttering their long, intensely colored lashes, feeling quite lovely indeed. Lash enhancement has been around for centuries, and eyelashes are still considered one of the most striking features on a human face—man or woman—that others notice and comment on frequently as a sign of natural beauty. Today’s false lashes are smarter, longer lasting and more natural looking than ever. But before we delve into today’s trends, lets take a quick look back at how lashes have evolved over the last few decades.
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all that glitters
crystal and gilded manicures
THE MOST ROMANTIC MONTH OF the entire year is just around the corner! This is a perfect time for nail technicians to provide manicures that help set the mood. Here are some ideas that light up those special occasions.
Crystal embellishments Swarovski crystals are used in nearly every market segment—garments, jewelry, handbags, watches and other fashion accessories, to name a few. They are world renowned for their fine craftsmanship. Swarovski crystals contain a minimum 32 percent lead content, which increases the refractive index and causes a prism effect. These crystals come in many colors, shapes and sizes. For nail embellishments, “flat backs” are a better choice than “point backs,” because they lie flat on top of the nail. You can purchase crystals from a number of outlets, but pur-
chasing from jewelry making suppliers where you can order in gross quantities is much more economical than buying from a beauty supply source. Also, there are manufacturers who produce less expensive crystals, but nothing beats the sparkle of Austrian leaded-glass crystals! Shizuka New York Nail Salon’s Crystal Manicure and Pedicure feature shimmering Swarovski crystals that add lasting drama to two fingers or toes of your choice. A 35-minute manicure is priced at $45.00 and a 55-minute pedicure is $65.00. Securing the crystals to the nail can be done in several ways. If you are using the very smallest crystals, placing them on the nail and covering them with one layer of topcoat may be all you need. If you do this, however, you will most likely obscure the facets, making them less continues
regular crystal and AB crystal
different sizes
different colors
crystals: Shutterstock.com
BY KAREN HODGES
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 107
image|all that glitters “glittery.” Another method is to place a tiny dab of nail glue on the nail, and set the crystal into place. There are many ways to pick up the crystals—from “dotting tools” to tinypointed tweezers. A very effective, low tech method is to wet the tip of a wood cuticle stick in water, dab the excess on your table towel and then pick up your crystals with the damp end. Rather than using glue or topcoat to pick up the crystals, this method keeps the facets pristine and maximizes sparkle. Traci Dungan, owner of ProFiles Salon in Cape Coral, FL, has an extremely talented staff of nail artists. They have created an innovative method of placing a tiny ball of colored acrylic on top of the nail, then gently pressing the crystal down into the product, allowing it to come up around the circumference of the crystal in a bezel effect. They have dubbed this method “candy drops.” For a Bling Gel Manicure, prices start at $26.00.
Gilding Gilding entails placing thinly beaten sheets of gold over wood or other metals. It has been depicted in tomb drawings dating back as early as 2250 BC, but perhaps the most famous application of this technique is embodied in the 18th century by the French monarch, Louis XIV. Dubbed the Sun King, he is credited with ushering in the Golden Age of art and literature. nail with gold leaf and brush
nomical choice would be metallic “foils.” These foils, often sold in rolls, come in a variety of colors and thicknesses. A huge variety of looks is possible, but there is
gold leaf, dull and shiny sides
ProFiles Salon candy drops
A “leaf” of gold is beaten and pressed to only about 1/250,000th of an inch thick. There may be a “shiny” side and a “dull” side, and either side may be placed face up, allowing some variety in color and shine. They are incredibly delicate to work with, as they flutter in response to the smallest breath of air. This look was created by shredding a sheet of 14 karat gold leaf into small pieces and placing them randomly on top of the freshly polished nail. Needlepoint tweezers and a small, clean and dry soft-bristled brush was used to help with the leaf placement. Gold leafing can be done with more or less coverage over the entire nail or kept to a specific area, as in a French manicure look or a diagonal swath across the nail. Rather than being too exact, the random imperfections enhance the design, making this a good method for nail techs who find themselves challenged by nail art. Sold in packets of small sheets, at beauty supply stores or online, the 14 karat gold leaf is the ultimate gilding material for nail technicians. A more eco-
nail look in metallic foils by Jennifer Halfon, Wild Hare Salon, Boca Raton, FL
just something about the gleam of real gold in a manicure or pedicure! n Karen Hodges is a licensed esthetician and manicurist with more than 15 years of experience. She is a freelance writer, as well as an industry educator and public speaker around the globe. Hodges does consulting and training in salons, as well as on a one-on-one basis with individuals. Arrangements for classes, speaking engagements, web-based or personal training can be made by contacting her at keyzkaren@bellsouth.net.
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SKIN TONE
color matching
photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com
BY ANNIE MAYO
In order to find just the right color foundation for different skin tones, I work with the philosophy that foundations should be yellow-based, neutral and peachy—not pink.
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
OVER THE COURSE OF MY 25-YEAR career as a TV and film makeup artist, I have found that the number one question people ask me is: “How do you know the correct color to pick when you are choosing liquid foundation, concealer and powder?” This question is asked by makeup artists, beauty aficionados and consumers. Want to drive more business to your makeup department? Have your makeup artists interact with guests, asking them this same question.
They can do this in a non-intrusive manner by starting a conversation with guests while they are in the retail section, or as a client is receiving a hair and nail service. This discussion can easily lead to a makeup consultation or retail purchase. Now, back to the question of how to choose and match liquid foundation, concealer and powder. Before you can pick the correct color for your client’s skin tone, you must know how to identify the undertone of the skin. Is the client’s continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 109
image|skin tone color matching
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Examples 1. Taylor Swift: Very fair skin and ivory tones can use a light neutral liquid foundation or add some depth of color with a bit of a yellow base powder. Very fair skin sometimes craves a little warmth; it’s merely a matter of preference. However, if a red undertone is present, why would you use a pink foundation? It will not look natural, and will show a line of demarca-
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tion on the jaw. Concealer is usually the lightest color offered in the line for fair skin. 2. Angelina Jolie: With medium-light to medium skin tones, it is best to enhance the skin color with a peachy tone liquid foundation, and finish it off with a yellowbased powder. A good mineral line will not make skin look yellow; it will just add warmth and create a no makeup look. 3. Eva Longoria: Medium to medium-dark skin tones should use neutral, slightly yellow or peachy liquid foundation and powder, meshing with the skin to blend and look natural. This is dependent on the depth of color you wish to add to enhance skin tone. 4. Halle Berry: Dark skin tones should lean toward golden/peachy tones in liquid foundation to complement the skin, followed by powder in a dark peach tone. Be careful not to use colors with too much green (ash) or blue undertones. African American skin can be tricky because tones vary from golden to red to blue undertones. Concealers should be two shades lighter than your foundation to create different dimensions on the face, so different highs and lows are created when the light illuminates the face. Your client will appear youthful and radiant. Use natural light to see if the color is right for the skin tone. Many times, fluorescent lights used in department stores and offices where makeup is sold give off a blue cast, and not a true color. Create an exciting environment, a focal point of your spa or salon to highlight your makeup business. This area should be enticing, well lit with a large mirror and a proper makeup chair. The makeup itself should be fun, flirty and organized, and there should a good selection. It should not appear dated. We are in the business of making our guests feel good about themselves and confident about their appearance. Understand and master the basics of skin tone and proper shade matching to create a beautiful foundation for a flawless, gorgeous guest! n
Annie Mayo is a professional makeup artist and the founder/CEO of Advanced Mineral Makeup, a natural mineral makeup line. Mayo has spent more than 25 years honing her skills in all aspects of hair, skin and makeup. Her work in the field of makeup includes more than 25 feature films, countless print ads, the Miss Universe Pageant, television network news stations, and major sporting events such as the Super Bowl and the World Series. Tutorials available on advancedmineralmakeup.com, YouTube and EHow Advanced Mineral Makeup is used on NCIS and Grey’s Anatomy advancedmineralmakeup.com 800.439.9936
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Page 110 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
compact: Picsfive/Shutterstock.com; Taylor Swift: Helga Esteb/Shutterstock.com; Angelina Jolie, Eva Longoria, Halle Berry: Everett Collection /Shutterstock.com
complexion yellow based or neutral? Look at the skin carefully. Do you see red or yellow? It’s that’s simple. Most women have a mix of both yellow and red to their skin tone. In order to find just the right color foundation for different skin tones, I work with the philosophy that foundations should be yellow-based, neutral and peachy—not pink. This approach gives clients a natural “no makeup” look that perfects and color corrects their natural skin tone.
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Lucrece P hys i c ia ns’ A e sthe tic Re se a rch, I nc. www.lucrece.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card
it’s time for New Year’s resolutions, wardrobe facelifts—and exciting new nail styles! We can all agree that 2013 was a fun and fabulous year, filled with an array of exciting new nail trends and designs. We all went gaga over the eggshell, olive green and magnetic polish design fads. However, all lovely ladies can now rejoice, because 2014 promises a variety of show-stopping new nail trends to try!
Page 112 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Andresr/Shutterstock.com
NEW YEAR New Nails
2014 IS FINALLY HERE, WHICH MEANS
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Jazz up your clients’ nails to their heart’s desire, and draw intricate nail polish designs (like cartoon characters or colorful tribal patterns!), glue on sequins and nail gems. they are in good hands with you! Refer to the short list below of the top nail trends of 2014. Ensure that your clients’ nails are ready to steal the spotlight at all of the year’s social soirées and high fashion events! 1. WHITE WITH FLAIR: Solid white nails featuring small adornments, such as thin colored stripes, polka-dotted bases or small gems will be all the rage in 2014. White nail polishes exude elegance and class, and the small ornamentation adds just the perfect pop of fun! 2. DISTINCTIVE METALLIC POLISHES: Shiny gold, copper and silver polishes were huge in the year 2013. This trend will be continuing in a whole new way in 2014! In the New Year, metallic polishes in unique hues like champagne and rose gold will pop up on the hands of fab fashionistas everywhere! This look goes great with everyone’s favorite little black dress! 3. STYLISH STRIPES: The year 2014 is all about stripes. Whether they are wide or thin, glittery or matte, vertical, horizontal or diagonal, striped nail art will be one of the top nail trends of 2014. Use a nail polish pen or tape to make sure your stripes are sleek, straight and stylish!
BY KATIE SAXTON
Year 2014 is all about being artistic and showing off your creative ingenuity. This means out with the solid dark polishes of Summer 2013 and in with bold and colorful designs, stripes and sparkles! There are so many fresh and inspiring ways to style up your clients’ nails in 2014 that it will be tough for any of them to stick with one nail trend for too long! If your clients are having trouble figuring out how to jazz up their nails for the New Year,
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
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4. PETITE PASTELS: Pretty and feminine pastel polishes like lilac, lavender, light blue, pastel pink and pale yellow are a major nail trend in 2014. Any of these polishes will show off your client’s sweet and fashionable side, and will add a pop of stylish color to any everyday outfit they wear! 5. SUSPENDED HALF MOON MANI: One of the biggest nail trends of 2013 was the half moon mani, featuring a colored half moon base set against a contrasting background. This one-ofa-kind nail trend has a whole new look for 2014! To create this look, paint the nails nude and let them dry. Then add a white semi-circle half moon continues
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LNEONLINE.com • Page 113
image|new year new nails
One of 2014’s biggest nail trends will be the modern French manicure, where the nail tips feature a thin stripe of color set against a contrasting colored background.
base on each nail, and add a clear topcoat to complete the look. The white moon will look like it is floating against the neutral background!
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6. CANVAS FOR CREATIVITY: In the New Year, a major trend will be using nails as a canvas for your artistic imagination. Jazz up their nails to their heart’s desire, and draw intricate nail polish designs (like cartoon characters or colorful tribal patterns!), glue on sequins and nail gems. Add lace embellishments and change the nail texture with matte polish. You can also add fun little adornments like rhinestones, feathers and tiny buttons. This is your chance to show off your imaginative side with your nails!
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7. NEW-AGE FRENCH TIP: One of 2014’s biggest nail trends will be the modern French manicure, where the nail tips feature a thin stripe of color set against a contrasting colored background. For the contemporary French manicure, you can also choose to keep the nails nude and add a thin stripe of any color along each nail tip. This is a sophisticated and elegant manicure that will go great with all attire, whether that is a business casual outfit or a colorful cocktail dress! 8. BARELY-THERE OMBRÉ: A popular nail style in 2014 will be an ombré manicure featuring an understated, barely-there transition from light to dark. Once others notice the slight change in nail polish hues, they will applaud you for your originality!
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9. SPARKLY SPLOTCHES: Glitter it up in the New Year! In 2014, a huge trend will be painting the nails a solid color, then adding a patch of sparkly polish to every nail. You can place the glitter splotch wherever you choose, but make sure it is in the exact same spot for every nail. This creates the most chic, fun and fashionable effect! This look is sure to get your client noticed at every social event they attend! New year, new nails! In 2014, try out any of the above nail trends to give your clients a remarkable, fresh look for the entire New Year! The latest trends will ensure that your clients’ nails always look ready for the runway in 2014. n
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Katie Saxton is the founder of Custom Nail Solutions. She is a renowned blogger and a regular contributor to television, radio, print and online media on the topics of nail beauty, nail care and nail trends. Custom Nail Solutions is a revolutionary artificial nail product offering custom nails that fit each individual’s unique nail beds. They are reusable, chemical-free and guaranteed to last a lifetime. Find out more at CustomNailSolutions.com.
Page 114 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: Nik Merkulov/Shutterstock.com
Nail designs by Diane Graham
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card
photo: istockphoto.com/Ales Ivanko
Page 116 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
THE GOLDEN
foot treatment
photo: Shutterstock.com
LUXURY COMES IN MANY FORMS, BUT IN the spa world, there is nothing more satisfying than a luxurious foot treatment with extra benefits. Here at Concierge Podiatry and Spa in Newport Beach, CA, we have introduced the ultimate service for the feet—the golden foot treatment. The beauty benefits of gold were recently proven by a 2011 study. After eight weekly gold treatments, skin firmness increased by 13 percent, scaliness was reduced by 29 percent, and smoothness increased by 14 percent. The study further concluded that the group experienced smoother skin over 80 percent of the time, and more radiant skin 100 percent of the time. Lastly, 70 percent of participants reported that they would purchase the gold treatment and recommend it to friends.
The gold used in our foot treatment is cosmetically produced: Pure .999 = 24 karat gold leaf produced specifically for the cosmetic industry. The gold is tested to be free of bacteria and other contaminants, and it is allergen-free, making it safe from skin irritation. The final safety aspect of cosmetic gold is that it does not break down into “nano particles,” meaning that the gold is absorbed topically onto the skin, adding moisture and hydration versus penetrating under the skin. So any toxicity is avoided. The golden foot treatment shown here was administered by Naja, a celebrity nail technician. To enhance the luxurious experience of the golden foot treatment, everything is offered chairside. Our clients enjoy the intrigue of watching gold being prepared and applied. 4
by Ivar E. Roth, D.P.M., M.P.H.
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 117
Protocol for the golden foot treatment
For maximum therapeutic skin benefits, these treatments can be repeated weekly for up to eight weeks.
• Apply lotion and massage into cleansed feet. • The gold leaf is then applied one leaf at a time to the feet in the specified manner. We use six leaves per foot. This can be adjusted up or down, depending on the size of the foot. We also cut the gold leaf into appropriate strips for application over problem areas like calluses, on the side of the great toe or back of the heels to customize our treatments. • After the gold is placed on the feet, the gold leaves are massaged into them. • After the massage, a small amount of gold residue remains on the feet. • We then custom mix a small amount of gold flakes into our lotion and massage the legs, thus leaving small amounts of gold on the feet and legs, which imparts a subtle golden radiance. For maximum therapeutic skin benefits, these treatments can be repeated weekly for up to eight weeks. This treatment is 60 minutes
of pure luxury, and we charge our guests $150 for this service. The golden foot treatment provides feet with a luxurious and radiant glow, and clients are always beaming with radiance as they leave. It’s all about mind, body and spirit. n Treatment photos courtesy of Ivar E. Roth, D.P.M., M.P.H. Ivar E. Roth, D.P.M., M.P.H. developed the concept of concierge podiatry so that his patients could benefit from better care for their foot and ankle problems. Dr. Roth is the sole active staff podiatrist with full surgical privileges for the foot and ankle at Hoag Hospital in Newport Beach, CA. He has now expanded his practice and is the owner of Concierge Podiatry Spa. Dr. Roth can be reached at ifabs@earthlink.net.
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by Diane Graham
image|step by step glitter herringbone manicure EVERYONE OCCASIONALLY HAS TO ATTEND an event that calls for something more than a pair of blue jeans. When any special occasion comes up, it’s always fun to accessorize that fancy ensemble with a striking manicure. There are few things that attract interest to nails better than glitter. This manicure does take some time, as the lines need to be done perfectly to create the look properly.
images: Shutterstock.com
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3 NAIL DESIGNS BY DIANE GRAHAM
WHAT YOU’LL NEED: • A fantastic, sparkly glitter polish. This design is best accomplished with a “fine” glitter, as you want the surface of the nails to be smooth. • Striping tape. • A solid crème polish to coordinate with the glitter. In this example, black is used. If pos-
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
sible, use a very opaque polish that covers well in one coat. • Topcoat. Step 1. Starting off with freshly prepared, clean nails, paint two or three coats of the glitter polish. You want the glitter coverage to be full and opaque. Step 2. Once the glitter polish has completely dried, apply at least one coat of topcoat. You may need two to three coats to make the nail surface completely smooth. The smoothness of the surface is important, as the striping tape will not adhere to a rough surface. Step 3. Using pieces of striping tape, divide the nail into four sections as shown. Make sure the tape continues
LNEONLINE.com • Page 119
image|step by step
You may want to allow the nails to dry a bit longer than normal before topcoating to minimize the chances that colors will run. 4 is laying flat, with no gaps that would allow polish to seep under the edges. Step 4. Cutting smaller strips of the tape, tape off each section of the nail, working at opposite angles from one section to the next. 5
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Step 5. Once all of the tape is applied, paint over the entire nail with your contrast color. You may need a heavier application of this color, so that coverage is fully opaque. Step 6. While this colored polish is still wet, slowly peel off each piece of striping tape. Pull the tape off, one piece at a time, removing it in a slow, steady motion to avoid smudging the dark polish.
Once all of the tape has been removed, if there are spots where the dark color has bled into the glitter stripes, you can use a small brush dipped in acetone to carefully wipe away the smudge. After the nails are completely dry, seal them with two coats of topcoat. You may want to allow the nails to dry a bit longer than normal before topcoating to minimize the chances that colors will run. Once you are done with the topcoat, your client is left with a dazzling mani that can hold its own against any of their favorite glittery accessories! n Diane Graham’s artistic skills have been featured both online and in print magazines. Her work can be found via her Facebook page and her blog, polishsickness. blogspot.com. Contact her at graham555@charter.net or 906.280.0707.
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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card
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SATIN SENSATION BEAUTY TRIO The Valentine’s Day Gift Set from SOTHYS contains an Eye and Lip Make-Up Removing Fluid with poppy flower extract, a Pore Refiner Complexion Perfector to conceal and reduce the appearance of pores and a Mascara Volume to add texture and volume for eye catching lashes! sothys-usa.com 305.594.4222
WINTER WONDER Acclaimed for their one-coat high shine crème lacquers, LVX releases their first ever metallic and glitter collection for the 2014 Winter Resort Collection. From stunning gemstones to textured glitters, LVX makes a statement with innovative seasonal palettes. The colors of the new collection include Magenta, Sappir, Avalon, Graphite, Caviar and Scarlet. The long lasting, chip resistant, non-streak formula is vegan and free of harsh and toxic chemicals, says the company. shoplvx.com
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
INNOVATIVE CUSTOMIZATION Custom Nail Solutions has just launched their first-ofits-kind Nail Adornment Service! With this new nail art service, custom-fit artificial nails that arrive pre-polished or decorated with fabulous designs like gradients and stamps can be ordered. The Nail Adornment Service offers more ways to make the nails unique, creating pre-polished and decorated custom-fit nails. With this new service, custom-fit nails can be adorned with a variety of fashionable polishes, designs and stylish stamps. customnailsolutions.com 877.218.7788
IMAGENEWS
The Nocturnal Ink Satin Eyeliner from Rouge Bunny Rouge is a lustrous ink with a brilliant finish for ultra fine or dramatic lines, says the company. The nonstaining eyeliner ink provides sleek, high intensity makeup that lasts all day. It is quick drying, transfer-proof and does not smudge or smear, achieving precise, water-resistant lines. All colors come with a satin finish. rougebunnyrouge.com
NAILS, MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS MORE NEWS LNEONLINE.com • Page 121
LASTING COLOR
IMAGENEWS
The Line Fix Gel Eyeliner by CAILYN Cosmetics brushes on smooth to create deep, luminous color for the eyes. Once dry, the gel is smudge-proof and wearable for 24 hours, says the company. The highly concentrated pigment of the liner creates lusciously smooth lines and is safe for sensitive eyes. It comes in 13 colors. cailyncosmetics.com 562.777.2538
COMPLETE POLISH Bio Seaweed Gel (BSG) is a healthier gel polish choice, featuring UNITY All-In-One Colour Gel Polish. It is the first and only professional gel polish with top, base, color and nail strengthener all in one, says the company. There is no dehydration, weakening or staining of the natural nails. No sanding, buffing, primers or bonders are required, and the quick soak-off removal takes five minutes. BSG is selfleveling and smooth to paint with no shrinkage, making gel manicures quick and easy. bioseaweedgel.com 877.428.8816
PRETTY POWDER LUSCIOUS MANE The Vital Technologies Advanced Hair Treatment from BioRegenerative Sciences™ is a stimulating complex for women, formulated to help revitalize hair and pigmentation in six to eight weeks. It is formulated using the company’s core technology, in which the molecules from multiple stem cell types are used to mimic the natural healing and growth processes of the human body, says the company. The technology nourishes the scalp’s stem cell niche where the hair and its pigmentation develop. BRSProducts.com 877.892.9991
Mineral Blends Makeup from Skin Blends consists of all natural powders derived from crushed minerals. This includes titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which yield UVA/UVB broadspectrum sunscreen protection for the skin, says the company. Blings and Pearls come in three specialty powder shades, each subtle and glimmer safe. Gold blings can add a little sparkle anywhere, and Champagne can highlight blush or add shimmer to eyelids or under brows. It can also be mixed with any blush or eye shadow for a softer, more subtle shade. skinblends.com 877.754.6253
Page 122 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
MAKEUP APP There is now an exciting new tool with several unique benefits for skin care and beauty professionals and their clients, introduced by jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®. The company has launched a Virtual Makeover iPad application with first-ofits-kind functionality, including the ability to smudge makeup, adjust brush size and blend and layer different products, allowing users to achieve the customized effects makeup delivers in reality. janeiredale.com 800.762.1132
Help your clients enhance their beautiful eyes for a romantic look with the revolutionary SAIAN Dasha Lash™. Formulated with SymPeptide®, it can help achieve the most beautiful lashes this Valentine’s Day! saian.net 800.291.1130
SCENT OF A MAN Masculine, charming and sensual, Mr. Romantic Perfume Oil for Men by Aromandina Aromatherapy is everything that a man aspires to be. This perfume oil contains a careful selection of spicy, earthy and woody elements that blend into an intensely erotic scent, says the company. The therapeutic oils help your male guests shed their inhibitions, embrace their masculinity and unleash their sensual side. Apart from providing much needed physical confidence and emotional clarity, this oil also smells divine to the ladies! aromandina.com 678.897.4869
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
DYNAMIC DUO The Lip Treatment Kit from Mineral Mine is the perfect item to retail for Valentine’s Day and winter weather! It provides a one-two punch with the Lip Buffer and Lip Satin for lips that are soft and kissable, says the company. The Lip Buffer exfoliates dry, rough skin to create perfectly smooth lips. It is finished with Lip Satin to treat, moisturize and protect. The Lip Treatment Kit is available for private label in silver or black packaging. mineral-mine.com 800.338.1423
IMAGENEWS
GIVE EYES A BOOST!
NAILS, MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS
LNEONLINE.com • Page 123
WEST | CENTRAL | EAST REGIONAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
LEARN ON LOCATION
West ONGOING Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty.Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424.
Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.
JANUARY 12 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
JANUARY 12-13 2-Day “Skin-Tensive” Training by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
JANUARY 13 JANUARY 5 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
JANUARY 19 JANUARY 6 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Page 124 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
West Central East International
JANUARY 20
JANUARY 19
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Qualitative Skin Analysis by GlyMed Plus Institute of Skin Science. Provo, UT. 800.676.9667.
Treating Acne with Stimulate Lymph Flow (SLF) Technique by Rhonda Allison. Santa Ana, CA. 866.313.7546.
JANUARY 26
JANUARY 27
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Denver, CO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
JANUARY 20
Central
JANUARY 26
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
ONGOING Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150.
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. The Business of Peels by GlyMed Plus. Houston, TX. 800.676.9667.
The Business of Peels by GlyMed Plus. Dallas, TX. 800.676.9667.
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 125
calendar|central|east
CALENDAR OF EVENTS Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. St. Louis, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
JANUARY 27 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. St. Louis, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
East Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Page 126 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
photo: photobank.ch/Shutterstock.com
ONGOING
calendar|east
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.
Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.
Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
JANUARY 19
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.
JANUARY 12 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
JANUARY 20 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
JANUARY 26 JANUARY 13
Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
It’s All in the Telomeres by GlyMed Plus at National Aesthetic Spa Network. Delray Beach, FL. 800.676.9667. continues LNEONLINE.com • Page 127
calendar|east|online
CALENDAR OF EVENTS JANUARY 27 Hyperpigmentation: Causes and Treatment Options Peptide Technology by Circadia by Dr. Pugliese. Delray Beach, FL. 866.486.5823.
ONLINE EDUCATION ONGOING A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Addressing Adolescent Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities An In-Depth Look at Melasma by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Customizing Daily Care Regimens by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Diminishing Deep Wrinkling by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. hydropeptide.com/webinars
Product Formulations as a Whole by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Shedding Light on UV-induced Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Investigating Impaired Barrier Function by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Simple Steps to a Booming Business by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
Targeting Adult Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
The Daily Care Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses The Professional Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
Page 128 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
calendar|online
Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2014 April 6-7 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2014 May 4-5 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014 September 7-8 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014 October 19-20 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229
January 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 129
advertisers’ index Page Number
Reader Service No.
62............... Beautiful Image....................................................... beautifulimagellc.com.................................................... 183 8................. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................. 180 41............... BelleCore................................................................ bellebodybuffer.com...................................................... 117 75............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................ 140 6,35............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 93............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................ 335 95............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... circadia.com................................................................... 101 132............. Darphin................................................................... darphin.com................................................................... .159 120............. Dr. Jeff..................................................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... .248 27............... Edge Systems........................................................... HydraFacial.com............................................................ 201 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro................................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 69............... GlymedPlus............................................................. glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 11............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 14-15......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... miami.skincareshows.com................................................ ...... 22-23......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... dallas.skincareshows.com................................................ ...... 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................ladyburd.com................................................................. 119 55............... Le Mieux.......................................................................lemieuxcosmetics.com................................................... 294 111............. Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................lucrece.com.................................................................... .263 7................. PCA Skin.......................................................................pcaskin.com................................................................... 110 28-29......... Professional Hair Removal Conference.....................phrconline.com.............................................................. .... 59............... Rapidlash......................................................................rapidlash.com................................................................. 224 115............. Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 19............... Rhonda Allison.............................................................rhondaallison.com.......................................................... 190 17............... Shira......................................................................... shiraesthetics.com.......................................................... 249 87............... Silhouettone.us......................................................... silhouettone.us............................................................... 192 5................. Sothys.............................................................................sothys-usa.com............................................................... 306
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Page 130 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • January 2014
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242
A few precious drops will change your skin. And your mind. Seems everyone who tries Darphin Essential Oil Elixirs calls it her new miracle skin product – and with good reason. Crafted with essential plant oils, they instantly melt into skin to quickly remedy your most pressing need – without any afterfeel. Choose your best formula to hydrate dry skin, calm sensitive skin, energize tired looking skin, renew aging skin’s youthful radiance or subdue oily shine (yes, even subdue oily shine). And the aromas are positively divine.
PURIFYING Niaouli Elixir for oily skin
ENERGIZING
Tangerine Elixir for tired skin
ANTI-AGING 8-Flower Elixir for aging skin
HYDRATING Rose Elixir for dry skin
Learn more and shop now on www.darphin.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #159 on reader service card
CALMING
Chamomile Elixir for sensitive skin