LNE & Spa - September 2014 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

September 2014

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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2 0 1 4

VOLUME 29

N U M BE R 9

organic & wellness

skin

Post Summer Repair 22 The Aging Process 26 Dispelling the Myths 34 Bioavailability 42 Skin News 50

It's a year round battle for skin care and spa clients—reversing the signs of aging, preventing wrinkles, smoothing, clarifying and brightening their skin. Yet when summertime comes around, these efforts take a back seat for some pool and beach fun. Follow the guide to help your customers get back on track and make up for all the fun in the sun.

POST-SUMMER

SKIN REVIVAL GUIDE

Super Spice Turmeric—the skin saving sensation! page 110

post-summer skin revival guide Burning Answers

The Beauty of Breath 106 Super Spice, Turmeric 110 Organic & Wellness News 114

52 Sun Damage Reversal 55 Au Naturel Skin Brighteners 59 Post-Summer Promotions 62 Post-Summer Skin Rescue Photo Feature 66

image

Fall Nail Trends Picture Perfect Image News

116 120 125

Post-Summer Skin Revival Guide page 51

Picture Perfect Airbrush Makeup 101 page 120

Sun Worshippers’ Lifeline Reversing skin damage with intense pulsed light page 74

extras

spa

All That Jazz 70 Sun Worshippers’ Lifeline 74 Spa News

From the Editor Spa of the Month: Ventana Inn & Spa, Big Sur, CA Calendar of Events Ad Index LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

September 2014

6 10 126 130

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business

Tip of the Iceberg 84 Commissions, Groupon and the Corporate Practice of Medicine 90 Pathway to Retail Success 98 Business News 104

Cover

Courtesy of Davino for Crystal Nails

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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September is here, and an exciting fall season is on the horizon! The first thing on your agenda should be attending the extraordinarily popular International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach on September 7-8 at the Long Beach Convention Center. The consistent growth in attendance year over year proves that this conference is THE place for progressive spa and skin care professionals on the West Coast to learn and connect! The spa industry is expanding into exciting new directions every day, and thus continual education is the key to achieving and maintaining success. The Long Beach conference offers an abundance of learning opportunities to broaden your repertoire, grow your network and provide your clients with the most complete and satisfying experiences possible. Key leaders in the spa industry share their insight on the latest modalities and issues facing professionals within every sector of the business. I invite you to visit LNEONLINE.com for the latest information on the congress. Fall is also the season when your clients are dealing with the appearance of sunspots, broken capillaries, skin discoloration and signs of premature aging. Now is the time to help your clients get back on track and make up for all their fun in the summer sun with our Post-Summer Skin Revival Guide on page 51. “Burning Answers: Setting the Record Straight About Sun Exposure,” “Sun Damage Reversal,” “Au Naturel Skin Brighteners” and “PostSummer Promotions” are just a few of many articles throughout this edition that educate you on all aspects of this essential topic. Wishing you a sensational start to the fall season!

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—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com

Page 6 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@lneonline.com Graphic Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@lneonline.com Associate Editor Nathalie Gouillou nathalie@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Fougere ache@lneonline.com Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontr ibutors David Bremer Aasha Chang EuGene Gant Nathalie Gouillou Kristin Groop Pamela Hackeman

Deborah Lippmann Danae Markland Don Owen, Ph.D. Natalie Pergar Michael Q. Pugliese Dori Soukup

David Suzuki Alex R. Thiersch, J.D. Karina Timmel Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #317 on reader service card

Page 8 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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WOODLAND GETAWAY THE SPA AT VENTANA INN & SPA BIG SUR, CA

by Amanda Clinton Winter

photos: courtesy of ventana inn & spa

SPA

OF THE MONTH

Perched on a hillside overlooking the ocean, the cozy wooden structures seem as if they have sprouted from the rich soil just like the redwood, oak and bay laurel trees that surround them.

Quite appropriately named, Ventana Inn & Spa—ventana means “window” in Spanish— opens to the breathtaking views of the valley, its greenery and blue of the ocean. It blends in with the landscape and complements its surroundings. Tucked away and spread across 243 acres of rolling meadows and wooded hillsides, the hotel and spa invites guests to a peace-

ful atmosphere, perfect for relaxing, reflecting and reconnecting with oneself and nature along California’s central coast just 28 miles south of Carmel. Ventana offers a blend of rustic sophistication and elegant simplicity, where suites and guestrooms, spread across the property like cozy wooden cabins, are all appointed with thoughtful details. In harmony with the natural setting, the spacious sanctuary abounds with pampering amenities. With more than 40 years in operation, Ventana is a veteran in the hospitality world and an iconic fixture of Big Sur. With the opening of its spa in 2002, the hotel and spa has swept dozens of awards, making Travel + Leisure’s

Page 10 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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spa of the month | ventana spa explore and restore. Relaxation, retreat and regroup with a focus on whole health of mind, body and spirit.” Branching out from the main Ocean House where the reception area is located, The Spa at Ventana offers a myriad of services to its guests and features a dry sauna and Japanese hot baths, including a clothing optional area adjacent to the sun deck and the pool.

With more than 40 years of operations, Ventana is a veteran in the hospitality world and an iconic fixture of Big Sur.

Guests can lose themselves in the fragrances of wild mountain lavender and other natural botanical essences as they are pampered with the spa’s many signature treatments.

photos: courtesy of ventana inn & spa

World’s Best Hotels list four times and Condé Nast Traveler’s The World’s Best Places to Stay Gold List 3 years in a row. Big Sur encompasses 300 square miles of predominantly state parks, national forests, unincorporated public lands, and seemingly endless beautiful coastline, ocean cliffs, steep ridges, jagged peaks, deep gorges and rivers. The lay of the land allows for innumerable hidden gems for guests to explore before retreating into Ventana for delectable, healthy foods and some well-deserved pampering at the spa. Although most spa guests are also patrons of the hotel, Ventana—an adults only property— also attracts locals, who come in for a luxurious day at the spa to indulge in the cuisine at the restaurant or visit the art gallery. “Big Sur and Ventana are about experience,” says Donna Shoemaker, spa director at Ventana. “Many guests are here with a sense of adventure to

Page 12 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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photos: courtesy of ventana inn & spa

spa of the month | ventana spa

With their guests’ sense of adventure in mind, Ventana’s signature treatments focus on catering to their every need after their long day in the wilderness. The Jade Ilex revives and renews tired feet with warm jade stones and cooling ointments to ease fatigue, while the back is treated with self-heating mud (50 min, $140). The Essence of Big Sur Herbal Massage is an herbal poultice massage where organic and wild crafted herbs of eucalyptus, lavender, pine, sage and arnica are used to capture the essence of the healing nature surrounding Big

Sur, while providing soothing aromatherapy and deep muscle release (80 min, $210). The El Sur Grande Hot Stone Massage relaxes taut muscles with therapeutic basalt and jade stones to relieve joint pain and reduce stress and tension (80/110 min, $220/$295). Aside from their signature massages, The Spa at Ventana features an array of treatments from facials to body services and specials for couples such as the Couples Experience, where guests are spoiled with a customized bath, followed by a signature Fusion Massage accom-

Page 14 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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photos: courtesy of ventana inn & spa

spa of the month | ventana spa

panied by candles, gourmet chocolates and tea (80 min, $410). Other popular treatments include the Fusion Massage, where therapists adjust the pressure to the needs of the client and blend their own synergized massage modalities with virgin coconut oil, jojoba blend oil or crème (50/80 min, $130/$195). The Advanced Renewal Facial, which is also in demand, is customized to guests’ specific skin conditions, and treats concerns with an exfoliation and masque, along with a massage of the face, shoulders, neck and scalp (50/80 min, $145/$215). The sought after Detoxifying Seaweed Body Wrap, rich in potent antioxidants and minerals, features sea algae, umeboshi plum and essential oils to eliminate lymphatic sluggishness and restore healthy body tone (80 min, $185; 110 min with massage, $245). Other treatments include the Espresso Mud Body Treatment, where fragrant and finely ground coffee beans are blended with Indian sarsaparilla, honey, tobacco and black silt clay for a detoxifying scrub and mud treatment to promote cellular detox with anti-cellulite properties (80 min, $185; 110 min with massage, $245).

Page 16 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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spa of the month | ventana spa some unique art can venture into The Gallery at Ventana where collections of paintings, sculptures, jewelry, hand-blown glass, stone and woodwork, ceramics, basketry and photography are displayed. Indeed, Ventana takes great joy as well as great advantage of the opportunity to partner with local businesses, and to participate in local events to keep up with its legacy and continue to promote its services. Shoemaker points out that their marketing technique also focuses on the Internet, their website and social media, which “fit the modern traveler,” she says. To maintain their level of service, the staff—including massage therapists, estheticians and yoga instructors—receives constant training and communicates at periodical meetings to address any issues. Products selected for retail and used in the spa, says Shoemaker, fit the identity and the feeling of the property. As for the spa menu, Shoemaker adds, it is fined tuned “based on treatments that are a fit for the area and our guest needs and requests.”

photos: courtesy of ventana inn & spa

The Body Polish gently buffs and stimulates the skin with aromatic organic essential oils blended with warm organic brown sugar or mineral rich sea salts (50 min, $140; 80 min with massage, $195). Traditional Thai massage, Reiki and Chakra balancing are offered as well. The Spa also offers private activities that include yoga, Pilates and tai chi classes (50/80 min, $105/$180); astrology readings (90 min/$225); and kinesiology, which releases blockages, old habits, attachments, old decisions and more (90 min, $225). Once their treatments conclude, guests can stroll through the forest on a quaint winding path to The Restaurant at Ventana, where sustainable ingredients from California’s central coast are expertly combined to create memorable dishes that pair perfectly with Ventana’s award-winning wine list. Guests can either savor the exquisite tastes in the lodge-like dining room or on the terrace, overlooking the spectacular coastline to enjoy the fresh and pure air. Those in the mood for

Page 18 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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spa of the month | ventana spa A true woodland retreat, Ventana invites guests to slow down and revitalize with a return to nature. “The setting, nature, Mediterranean climate, mountains and ocean, along with the indigenous treatments and amazing caring practitioners who exceed in treatment and customer experience,” says Shoemaker, are what make Ventana truly stand out. n

VENTANA INN & SPA 48123 Highway One, Big Sur, CA 831.667.2331 ventanainn.com VENTANA INN & SPA FACTS Launch dates: Ventana Inn, 1975; Ventana Spa, 2002 Owned by Joie De Vivre Hospitality FACILITY • 60 villas and suites • Six spa treatment rooms, two pool areas, a dry sauna, Japanese soaking tubs, one outdoor Zen garden with cabana PRODUCT LINES USED AND RETAILED Naturopathica, Kerstin Florian, Kimberli’s Organic Creations (locally grown and created body care), Thaiyurveda (locally made compresses created for Ventana Spa) SIGNATURE TREATMENT Jade Ilex, Essence of Big Sur Herbal Massage, El Sur Grande Hot Stone Massage

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, MA, and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com. Page 20 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

photos: courtesy of ventana inn & spa

The Ventana Spa menu is updated periodically.

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skin

post summer repair: the secrets of enzymes uncovered

It is a tasty, fruity treat for the skin, and an important step in skin care routines that is too often overlooked—the enzyme exfoliation.

WHAT ARE ENZYMES? To understand the impact of enzymatic exfoliation on the skin, we must first understand what enzymes are. Enzymes are proteins that initiate change and work at the surface of the skin. They initiate chemical reactions in the body to either speed up or break chemical bonds. In skin care, they accelerate the skin’s natural exfoliation process. An enzyme exfoliator will gently digest the bonds that connect dead cells to our skin, preventing pores from clogging and helping with uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation. Routine enzyme exfoliation will lead to brighter skin and a younger appearance, as it allows for deeper absorption of beneficial ingredients. Since the top layer of our skin is primarily made of dead skin cells, our complexion can appear dull if they are not removed.

photos: Shutterstock.com

Although they belong to the realm of chemical exfoliation (as opposed to manual exfoliation they use a chemical to resurface the skin), enzyme peels are a gentle and effective way to provide smooth and clear skin to your clients, whomever they may be and whatever skin type they may have. In other words, enzyme peels are beneficial to all, and the best choice for sensitive skin and those with dermatologic conditions. Much less irritating than other methods, enzyme exfoliations very rarely have any contraindications or side effects—clients going through exacerbating acne or those who are sensitive to the elements of peeling substances should not receive an enzyme peel.

by Natalie Pergar

Page 22 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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skin | post summer repair

WHERE DO THE ENZYMES COME FROM?

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Enzymes in skin care are extracted from multiple fruit and vegetable sources, including fungi. For best results, look for fruit enzymes like papaya, pineapple and pumpkin, which are the most commonly used and most stable enzymes. They are vitamin rich and packed with antioxidants, and all are great options for anti-aging. Bromelain (from pineapple) is a good choice for clients with sensitive, red or rosacea prone skin because it contains anti-inflammatory properties to ease the symptoms.

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Papain (from papaya) helps with acne by breaking down dead cells inside the pore and releasing trapped congestion underneath the skin. If hyperpigmentation—often the result of too much sun exposure—is the primary concern, then an exfoliator that utilizes Protease (from pumpkin) will help erase the dark spots (pumpkin enzymes are small molecules that are able to penetrate deeper than others for anti-aging and skin brightening benefits). A great time for your clients to invest in an enzyme exfoliation is after summer, when skin needs an extra helping hand to remedy the effects of the increased sun exposure, where more hyperpigmentation may have occurred. Enzyme exfoliants can be weaved into many spa treatments. They are a common favorite to prepare the skin for extractions, or can be used as a pre-treatment for deeper exfoliating peels. In addition, they work great in series, with monthly maintenance treatments to keep the skin looking its best. n

ENZYME PEELS AT SPAS Meisenheimer Day Spa in Orlando, FL, offers the Organic Passion Peel, a peel with organic papaya, pineapple, pumpkin and mango, designed to rebalance tired, stressed and dull looking skin (60 min, $90). Rejuvenation Day Spa in Portland, OR, features the Enzyme Peel Facial, made with organic fruit enzymes and customized for each particular skin type to deeply exfoliate the dead damaged layer of skin and unveil fresh, glowing, beautiful skin (60 min, $135). Novo Spa in Toronto, Canada, offers the Organic Enzyme Peel, which features a delicious purée of yam and pumpkin to accelerate the exfoliation process and peel away dead skin cells, reduce pigmentation, fine lines and sun damage (40 min, $90).

Natalie Pergar is an international trainer and credited esthetician with 19 years of hands-on experience. She has a passion for education, wellness and teaching the secrets of achieving amazing skin using only natural ingredients. Pergar has been an integral part of the Éminence team for 12 years, wearing multiple hats as a skin care expert and conducting in-depth product training for the company.

Page 24 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

In addition, as people get older, cell turnover slows down, contributing to a dim and even rough look to the skin. Because enzymes work fast, they are a great choice for those clients who seek instant visible results, as the skin will look brighter right after the treatment.

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THE

AGING PROCESS Free radicals and antioxidants

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Don Owen, Ph.D.

Life on earth took a big step when it began using oxygen for energy about 2.3 billion years ago—it allowed for the development of rapid movement (advanced life), complex chemical processes (such as color, vision) and ultimately the creative brainpower we possess.

However it came with a price. The mitochondria in every cell, which are the energy producers that make Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP transports energy in cells), also produce undesired free radicals.

ASSAULT ON HEALTHY CELLS Free radicals—unstable and highly reactive atoms with unpaired electrons (atoms are bonded by pairs of electrons)—in their quest for electrons, create a lot of damage to healthy cells. The destruction they bring when they react with important cellular components such as the DNA, not only can lead to cancer, but its damage is also among the leading theories of aging—aging thus results from free radical damage in which critical systems are eventually eroded, leading to failure and death. Free radicals can be generated endogenously (at the intracellular level, thus as a “natural” consequence of body functions) or exogenously (chemicals, drugs, cigarette smoking, sun exposure, radiation, etc.). As such, some sources of free radicals can be controlled, while others cannot. In skin cells, the damage causes the wrinkles characteristic of aging.

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 27

skin | the aging process

PREVENTING AND DELAYING CELL DAMAGE To help prevent self-destruction of the cells within the body, cells must produce antioxidants at all times to handle generated free radicals. As their name indicates, antioxidants block the process of oxidation and neutralize free radicals. However as we age, our organism slows down, thus reducing the release of critical hormones to fight off free radical formation and damage. Aging is controlled in the human body at the total organism level by the hypothalamus, which produces the growth hormone releasing hormone (GHRH), or Somatoliberin. In turn,

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GHRH causes the release of human growth hormone (HGF) and its critical binding factors. Yet as we get older, the biological clock in the hypothalamus causes a significant reduction in HGF, which in turn causes the reduction of circulating insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1). IGF-1 is the principal circulating growth factor necessary to maintain regional repair and produce the enzymes that control free radical formation and resulting damage repair. The skin (epidermis and dermis) is composed of cells that generate free radicals because of normal metabolic activity, but must also take care of free radicals produced by the environment. Yet, as previously expounded, as we age, our body reduces its ability to produce proteins to respond to environmental insults and enzymes associated with free radical reduction (more below). Just as we slowly stop repairing gravity damage (i.e. collagen, elastin, etc.), we also stop repairing solar damage and free radical formation damage.

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skin | the aging process

TYPES OF ANTIOXIDANTS T h e re a re t w o b a s i c c a t e g o r i e s o f antioxidants: enzymes (produced by the body and living organisms) and small molecular types that are either actual antioxidants or induce antioxidant activity (vitamins, minerals and other molecular types found in fruits, vegetables and herbs).

ENZYMES CONTROLLING FREE RADICAL FORMATION: Superoxide dismutase 1, 2 and 3 (SOD1, SOD2 and SOD3). SOD is among the body’s most powerful natural antioxidant enzymes. SOD is naturally found in foods such as yeast and barley green. Zinc is an important component of SOD.

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Catalase is another important enzyme found in all living organisms. Foods high in catalase include wheat sprouts, collard greens and other cruciferous vegetables.

Glutathione peroxidase (GPx): Its main role is to protect the organism from oxidative damage. Foods rich in glutathione precursors (thus that help raise glutathione levels naturally) include spices (such as turmeric, cinnamon and cardamom), sulfur rich vegetables (onions, cabbage, broccoli and kale), avocados, aloe vera and Brazil nuts, among others. Thioredoxin reductase: Its level of activity is reduced by a deficiency in selenium.

Small molecular types can be further divided into numerous groups: Vitamin C: Ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbic phosphate (water soluble derivative of vitamin C); and ascorbyl palmitate (another form of vitamin C). Phenolics: Quercetin (a flavonoid found in red wine, berries and green tea); catechins (flavonoids found in tea, which include epigallocatechin-3-gallate EGCG); and resveratrol (found in red wine). Carotenoids: Beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein and vitamin A (retinoids). Sulfur containing compounds: Lipoic acid and N-acetyl cysteine (NAC, which comes from the amino acid L-cysteine, replenishes intracellular levels of the natural antioxidant glutathione). Minerals: Zinc, selenium and copper (all three are needed for SOD enzymes).

Page 30 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

Skin care products can provide a source of antioxidants useful in supplementing nature’s repair.

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skin | the aging process

Skin care formulations have for many years added both synthetic and plant derived small molecule antioxidants to improve the skin’s ability to handle the many sources of free radicals associated with being alive. Recently enzymes such as catalase and SOD, commercially available via isolation from plant sources and fermentation, have also been added to reduce free radical concentrations. Retinoids have always been useful for anti-aging and fine line reduction, and newer derivatives are allowing ease of formulation. Retinyl olivate, retinyl safflowerate and retinyl phosphate are only a few of the oil and water soluble derivatives that are being introduced into new formulations. Also receiving interest are agents that aid in increasing DNA/RNA (ribonucleic acid), single strand repair or double strand repair—unlike DNA, RNA is single-stranded. Applied topically, certain antioxidants might not penetrate deeply into the intact stratum

corneum (SC, the outermost layer of the epidermis), and depending on the circumstances compounds can exhibit pro- or antioxidant activity. However, they can indeed be effective at reducing free radical formation on the surface and immediate sub-surface of the SC. n

Don Owen, Ph.D., is CEO/ CSO of Owen Biosciences, Owen BioPharma, Inc. and Therapeutic Peptides, Inc. Dr. Owen holds more than 25 patents in organ preservation technology, dermally active peptides and skin care related fields. Dr. Owen has recently been developing a new generation of proliferatives via the latest “green” chemical routes for the production of these proliferatives and other unique personal health care ingredients from North and South American raw materials.

Shall we

pumpkin? Guide Did you know that fall’s most cherished fruit is also one of skin care's best kept secrets?

COMING NEXT MONTH LNE & Spa—the

magazine for

skin care and

2014 nals August

spa professio

$7.50

LNE & SPA

From all its beneficial properties, to the best pumpkin-inspired treatments, and how to integrate them into your menu (and boost your retail sales along the way) we have it all covered in our Pumpkin Guide.

Page 32 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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THE MYTHS Marketing Chemical Peels to Consumers by Danae Markland

Page 34 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

DISPELLING

Chemical peels have been a safe and effective method of rejuvenating the skin for decades. Unlike previous methods, the superficial peels of today are both highly effective and also quite gentle.

Some unfortunate and inaccurate portrayals in the media of the negative aftermath of having a peel, along with a general lack of knowledge and understanding, has led to unnecessary consumer fear of chemical peels. As skin health clinicians, we can help dispel the negative myths around chemical peels through appropriate verbiage, education and support of our patients. Opening up this treatment option to patients leads to accelerated and positive outcomes.

DISPELLING THE MYTHS We have all seen or heard of episodes of popular television programs where the protagonist enters a room shrouded in a wide-brimmed hat to hide the red, raw and unattractive condition of her skin after having a peel. This visual is enough to scare most consumers away from chemical peels for good. These types of popular cultural images are hard to overcome. Having materials in your practice that show actual before and after images of real people you have treated with peel solutions can help set the record straight and make marketing peels to consumers successful.

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skin | dispelling the myths

MYTH: Getting a chemical peel is painful. TRUTH: There are some strong peeling solutions that can cause discomfort during treatment, like phenol and high percentage trichloroacetic acid (TCA), but these are rarely chosen for treatment; they are peels that are performed every few years or maybe only once in a lifetime. Superficial blended peels cause little to no stinging or tingling in the skin during and after treatment, and are safe to perform monthly.

MYTH: A chemical peel will make my skin thin. TRUTH: Having a gentle, superficial blended chemical peel will remove surface buildup, hydrate the skin and give it a plumper, fuller appearance. The use of topical vitamin C, retinoids, stem cell extracts and peptide products in a treatment, as well as in a daily care regimen, will help make skin stronger and more durable. There is no risk of thinning skin when receiving a superficial peel.

MYTH: After a peel, my skin will be red, raw and blistered. TRUTH: Immediately following a superficial blended peel, most people feel and look great, and can return to their normal daily activities.

MYTH: My face gets red and stings when I apply products at home, so my skin is too sensitive for a chemical peel. TRUTH:

There is a wide range of peels available that offer benefits for all skin types, including the most sensitive. Also, some products used at home can cause redness due to the addition of fragrances, dyes and other known irritants. A patient may think they are sensitive when they are truly just sensitized due to inappropriate product use.

CMY

SETTING EXPECTATIONS THROUGH EDUCATION A great way to introduce your clients and their friends to chemical peels is by holding an informative, but informal workshop. Make sure the environment is welcoming and inviting. Consider offering hors d’oeuvres or a glass of wine. Have before and after pictures available for them to look through, and brochures that explain the process and minimize concern. Offer complimentary hand peels so attendees can feel the gentle nature of these types of peels themselves. Treating only one hand helps them see the difference that even one peel treatment can make, as the treated hand will almost always look better than the untreated hand, even right after the peel is performed.

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Some common myths and misconceptions that consumers have about chemical peels include the following:

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skin | dispelling the myths TIPS TO PREPARE YOUR PATIENTS FOR THEIR PEEL AND ENSURE AN EXCELLENT OUTCOME: ● ●Use of gentle daily care products recommended by the clinician prior to a peel will prepare the skin, allow for better treatment results and reduce the risk of complications. This should be recommended, but it is difficult to make it mandatory.

● ●If a patient is lactating or pregnant, they should consult their OB/GYN before receiving a treatment.

● ●The practice of going to tanning beds should be discontinued altogether due to the increased risk of skin cancer and accelerated visible aging; 2 weeks prior to a peel it is strictly prohibited, no matter what. Extended sun exposure should also be avoided.

● ●It is recommended that any patient using

a chemical peel treatment, they should not necessarily expect to “peel.” Some clients dislike the peeling process, so this can be a plus. Others really want to see shedding skin, even though we know that is not a determination of treatment efficacy. Light flaking in a few localized areas for 3 to 5 days and residual redness for approximately 1 to 12 hr post-procedure is typical. For those patients who want to see visible exfoliation, there are different types of peels, like retinol creams, that tend to induce more flaking in most patients. Here is how exfoliation works: Our skin sheds microscopically and continuously throughout the month, rather than in one big slough every 28 days. The accurate way of explaining this is that in some circumstances our natural cell turnover process is interrupted because of an impaired barrier function, and our stratum corneum does not shed off appropriately, even though our cells are turning over beneath the surface. In this circumstance, having a superficial chemical peel may induce more flaking than if we were desquamating correctly. Healthy skin typically has less visible exfoliation post-treatment.

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Retin-A®, Renova® Differin®, Tazorac®, Avage®, EpiDuo™, Ziana® and high-percentage alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA) products avoid use for approximately 5 days prior to treatment. Patients should consult their physician before temporarily discontinuing the use of any prescription medications.

● ●Explain to your clients that, after receiving

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The

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September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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skin | dispelling the myths

There are many effective sales techniques you can use to market peels to your clients. One method is to choose the words you use to advertise chemical peels carefully to minimize the fear factor. Some patients might be more than happy to schedule a “facial peel,” an “exfoliating treatment” or an “advanced resurfacing facial,” but not a “chemical peel,” for instance. Use names that focus on the condition being treated, as well as the end result. Some examples include “Complexion Clearing Acne Treatment,” “Wrinkle Smoothing Anti-Aging Treatment” and “Calming Rosacea Treatment.” Create packages of treatments, and use social media to get the word out about the services you offer and connect with your community. Dedicate some time to setting up a Facebook business page and share it with friends, family and co-workers, encouraging them to do the same. Use this platform to share information about the services you offer, as well as informative news and articles about chemical peels that serve to dispel the aforementioned myths. If you are active on Twitter, cross-market your Facebook posts on this fast-moving platform to engage more followers. Hashtags can be used

to target specific groups, or they may be used in your posts to pull out keywords others might search to find your tweets, like #chemicalpeels, for example. Offer authentic help to your followers and reach out to those posing questions related to your practice and treatments. While videos are known to generate a lot of engagement, not everyone has the capability to shoot and edit them.

Create packages of treatments, and use social media to get the word out about the services you offer and connect with your community. For those who do, a YouTube channel is a must. If not, you can still use YouTube to find educational content to share with your followers on other platforms. A 1 to 2 min video showing positive chemical peel outcomes from real patients may be all someone needs to see before booking their own professional treatment with you. If you are able to give consumers a true understanding of how superficial peels work through education and dispelling some of the common myths surrounding them, your business will thrive and your patients will be thrilled with the improvement that peels can offer for every skin type and condition. n

Danae Markland is a licensed esthetician and certified medical laser specialist. As senior director of inside sales and customer support for PCA SKIN®, Markland and her team help medical and esthetic practices grow their businesses with superior products and education. Also an advanced educator, Markland shares her passion for skin health with fellow estheticians and medical professionals at presentations all over the world.

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graphic: Shutterstock.com

MARKETING PEELS TO YOUR CLIENTS

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Aldenine® - Tripeptide-1 Snap-8™ – Acetyl Octapeptide-3 Syn-Ake® – Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate Nutripeptides® – Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Matrixyl® synthe’6™ - Palmitoyl Cyclodextrin-38 Eyeseryl® – Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Stem Cells & Peptides Skin Care Technology Here to Stay Plant & Fruit stem cells have represented a major breakthrough in skin care, launching the beginning of a new system of treating the skin. With their ability to strengthen, protect, and replenish human skin cells, skin care has never had more potential to improve skin health and the appearance of aging skin. As Stem Cell Technology has gained popularity, Peptides have quietly remained a fixture in age-corrective skin care products. Their ability to stimulate different functions in the skin such as stimulating Collagen production, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, muscle cell contraction, and developing the dermal layer of the skin is unmatched. With both technologies working synergistically, we’ve been committed to using a wide range and high concentrations of both to formulate some of the finest, result-driven skin care available.

LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE T IC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce .co m Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

BIOAVAILABILITY

TOPICAL COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OF

As professional skin care and medicine continue to share a language, new terms need to be defined and understood by the esthetician.

By Michael Q. Pugliese

a critical evaluation is required by researchers to determine what quantity of that material was actually utilized by the body. The word for this is bioavailability. In this article I will introduce the term and explain why it is worthwhile to understand its meaning. I shall do this within the context of two other terms that are familiar to estheticians, penetration and percentage. Why should an esthetician care about the quantities of any material used on the skin? It is our intention to provide the benefits of releasing active components into the skin by applying products during our treatments and in the clients’ home care. photos: Shutterstock.com

In 1984, the term cosmeceutical was introduced by Dr. Albert Kligman1, developer of Retin-ATM, to distinguish those topical preparations that could effectively deliver therapeutic benefits to the skin, as well as the “beautifying” temporary effects of cosmetics, as defined by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1938. A prescription ointment, Retin-A effectively delivered retinoic acid, a powerful form of vitamin A, into the skin. The success of Retin-A triggered a frenzy of research to formulate functional raw materials into elegant compounds that would not require a prescription. In choosing to include an active ingredient in a formulation,

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skin | bioavailability of topical cosmetic active ingredients

will not work well together, the chemist may opt for a more sophisticated type of mixing. Arbutin and kojic acid are naturally occurring whitening agents. The stability of these compounds is higher in an oil-in-water microemulsion, and therefore the potential for reaching targeted cells is increased. Another popular carrier system uses liposomes, which encapsulate water and lipid-soluble active components, acting as vehicles to deliver actives to the epidermis and dermis. But in skin care, not everything is meant to penetrate rapidly. Emollients, which protect against water loss, are intended to stay on the outermost skin layers to keep the skin soft and supple. With new technologies, an additional beneficial action may later be effected in the lower layers, by adding another active material to the moisturizer.

THE SCIENCE OF BIOAVAILABILITY Bioavailability is a term used by several branches of scientific study to describe the way compounds are absorbed by humans and other animals. The information on this topic is highly technical and vast.

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But let us remember the most significant role the skin plays—it is a vigilant gatekeeper! It keeps what is outside the body out, and what is inside the body from falling or leaking out. The skin is brilliantly designed with intricate back-up systems, always on alert. The selective permeability of skin is wellknown, serving as a dynamic barrier, while constantly monitoring for incoming toxins and pathogens. So, getting a sufficient quantity of useful elements to a point where they can do any good can become quite a challenge for the skin care formulator. The first thing is to find out how much of an active component is needed, and we call that the effective dose. Then we have to get it into an elegant product. How do we get it in there? The artistry of cosmetic chemistry has grown as the activity of superior new materials is unfolding in the cosmetic supply realm. Once an effective dose has been established, useful agents are best delivered to the skin, in some cases by adjusting the type of formulation from which the actives will be delivered. Cosmetic chemists call this the vehicle, or carrier. For example, if two things ordinarily

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skin | bioavailability of topical cosmetic active ingredients

For the practice of esthetics, it is not necessary to understand all of the science, but one should be familiar with related terms that fall under the topic of bioavailability.

For the practice of esthetics, it is not necessary to understand all of the science, but one should be familiar with related terms that fall under the topic of bioavailability in the literature. The research on the bioavailability of nutrient compounds, like vitamins, was initiated by the makers of topical drugs and ingestible supplements. In skin care, pioneers like Dr. Kligman contributed volumes on the topic of retinoids. Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., author of Advanced Professional Skin Care, Medical Edition, conducted penetration studies of topical agents, discovering that vitamin E as an antioxidant was an effective defense component in skin cancer prevention. In this groundbreaking study, he stained the test product with a fluorescent dye called dansyl chloride, and covered it with a patch for 24 hr. When subjects returned, the area was stripped by using a piece of ordinary cellophane tape, which removed approximately one cell layer at a time, done 20 times in the same spot. At the “glistening layer,” photos were taken under ultraviolet light to show the presence of the vitamin E, which had penetrated to 20 cell layers. That is the

exact area where an antioxidant can do the most good to protect against UV-induced free radical damage.

BIOAVAILABILITY OF VITAMINS: ORAL VS. TOPICAL In pharmacology, bioavailability is a subcategory of absorption. When a medication is administered intravenously, its bioavailability is essentially 100%. However, when a medication is administered via other routes, such as topically, orally or through inhalation, its bioavailability generally decreases2. Bioavailability is defined slightly differently for drugs as opposed to dietary supplements and cosmetics, primarily due to the method of delivery and the FDA regulations. Bioaccessibility is a concept related to bioavailability, used mostly in the context of biodegradation and environmental pollution, like second-hand smoke. Inhalant therapies are often life saving, with fewer side effects for many common ailments. A conflict regarding the aerosol application of physical sunscreens, also regulated as FDA drugs, has caused much controversy in recent years, with respect to inhalation of micro-particles and

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YOU CAN

Win a free iPad mini! when you attend our class on Sunday, Sept 7 at ICES Long Beach 3:45 to 5:00 pm Class 201A

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skin | bioavailability of topical cosmetic active ingredients their absorption rates. Arguments on both sides of this debate are still creating valid data to support their respective views. It is documented that product penetration and subsequent bioavailability can be enhanced by combining multiple agents. Consider the treatment for acne, where multiple etiologies contribute to the condition. The use of exfoliating ingredients, including salicylic acid, can be enhanced effectively with niacinamide, also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, to reduce the degree of hyperpigmentation. Higher penetration of active ingredients presupposes enhanced bioavailability, but this is not always true.

TAKE NUTRIENTS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE The use of functional foods and oral supplements for improving skin condition allows a synergistic and complementary bioavailability when the same vitamins are applied topically. Whereas very little vitamin C makes it into the skin through oral ingestion, when applied topically, higher bioavailability to the skin is ensured. Because of the instant delivery to a target site, topical applications of vitamin C can be given at up to 1,000 times less concentration than an effective oral dose. In calculating the effective dose concentration of many active ingredients, the limitations of the delivery systems must be considered3. As aloe products remain popular among supplement and cosmetic manufacturers, the botanical has attracted additional industry attention through a recent study by the National Toxicology Program (NTP). The research raised safety concerns regarding carcinogenic effects from an aloe vera wholeleaf extract. Promptly, however, the industry immediately fought back and defended the ingredient by pointing out that the type of aloe presented in the study is hardly used in finished goods, so consumers should not be deceived by the misleading research. Several other studies surfaced shortly after the release of the NTP’s research, which helped to separate fact from fiction and reiterate aloe’s safety. You must always consider the source and verify any alarming research that is suddenly presented in the media. The Society of Cosmetic Chemists provides current and often free access to the latest re-

search papers, clinical studies, references for new ingredients and their activity in skin care formulations. Peers share information on using engineered technologies for enhanced penetration of unstable agents. Technical advances in cosmetic chemistry are increasing the bioavailability, and thus the performance, of beneficial ingredients when applied to the skin’s surface. Bioavailability is a concept that the skin care specialist should understand, at least in terms of penetration, absorption and effective dose concentrations of actives in topical products. n

References 1. Vleugels R. A. (2008). Cosmeceuticals: From Topical Antioxidants to Peptides. The Dermatology Report, 2. Retrieved from http://www.thedermatologyreport. com/derm/derm020140.html 2. Herkenne C., Alberti I., Naik A., Kalia Y. N., Mathy F., Préat V., & Guy R. H. (2008) In Vivo Methods for the Assessment of Topical Drug Bioavailability. Pharmaceutical Research, Pharm Res., 25, 87–103. doi: 10.1007/s11095-007-9429-7 3. Myriam M., Sabatier M., Steiling H., & Williamson G. (2007). Skin bioavailability of dietary vitamin E, carotenoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, zinc and selenium. The Nutrition Society, 96, 227-238. doi: 10.1079/BJN20061817

Michael Q. Pugliese is the CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese and the Circadia Institute of Advanced Esthetics. Pugliese and his grandfather, Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., hold in-depth classes on a variety of subjects, including cosmetic chemistry and histology of the skin. Pugliese is a licensed esthetician in the state of Pennsylvania, and holds a degree in business management and marketing from Kutztown University.

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FIRM FOR FALL

SKINNEWS

THE POWER OF WINE

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

Apothederm’s Firming Serum features SmartPeptides, a new generation of clinically proven, bioactive peptides that help firm skin and reduce the signs of aging, says the company. Heptapeptide-7 promotes keratinocyte proliferation and migration, while Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 helps boost collagen production. apothederm.com 877.496.0038

Exel’s new Elixir, a serum cream with Lipmalbex®, is a potent cream packed with antioxidants, resveratrol, troxerutin, and vitamins C and E. It helps reduce lines and wrinkles, says the company. The cream grants luminosity, strength and a youthful appearance to the skin, and is ideal for mature and younger skin for its preventive action. exel-usa.com 305.866.8163

OUTSTANDING SKIN REPAIR

EXFOLIATE WITHOUT THE FLAKE Bioelements introduces its Glycolic Detox Charcoal Peel™, Levels 2 and 3. Joining the brand’s Lactic-Plus Peel Level 1, these new acid-hybrid formulas remove the uppermost layers of the skin for immediate improved glowing skin, says the company. The brand also launched an acetone-free, alcohol-free Peel Prep Lipid Eraser™ to accelerate treatment results and allow for maximum penetration. The peels feature activated charcoal and Canadian willowherb, while the prep has natural plant extracts of thyme, chamomile, calendula and more. bioelements.com 800.433.6650

Silk Therapeutics, Inc. announced the launch of PureProC, a breakthrough antiaging skin care product line featuring the company’s proprietary silk protein technology, says the company. PureProC Fine Line and PureProC Silk Smoothing Gel are the first products in the company’s new line to utilize the power of pure silk protein to deliver concentrated levels of vitamin C to reduce wrinkles and fine lines and revitalize skin. pureproc.com 866.809.0367

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POST-SUMMER

SKIN REVIVAL GUIDE September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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ANSWERS

SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT ABOUT SUN EXPOSURE by Karina Timmel

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POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

BURNING

SHORT-TERM EFFECTS Sunburns include redness of the skin, peeling and even bubbling of the skin or severe blistering (in which case you should refer your client to a physician). Clients will most likely come to you for hyperpigmentation (a short and long term issue), melasma, also known as chloasma or the mask of pregnancy (as it is often associated with hormones), and lentigines or “liver spots.” Hyperpigmentation refers to a darker area of skin that has more than the normal amount of melanin. Melasma and lentigines refers to dark brown spots of concentrated melanin, most likely on the face and hands (“geographic” hyperpigmentation), and could be inherently due to

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

sun damage or the result of hormone imbalance, exacerbated by sun exposure. Tinea veriscolor, also known as “sun fungus,” where white spots appear on the skin, is yet another possible short term consequence of summer fun—the condition, a result of fungus interfering with melanocytes’ production of melanin, must be referred to a dermatologist.

LONG-TERM EFFECTS Excessive and repetitive sun exposure for years results in the collapse of the skin support system; collagen and elastin are essentially under attack and begin to transform and degrade. The results are wrinkling, sagging and elastosis. Sun damaged skin can have horizontal and vertical fine lines, the skin may feel and look leathery, and the discoloration of skin (especially on the face) is more pronounced and very freckled. Clients can also complain of having dry skin, as sun damage impairs skin’s ability to hydrate properly. Then there are the different sun-related skin growths. Although cancerous growths—caused by damage to DNA— are of the domain of physicians, salon and spa practitioners should be able to discern the signs to refer their clients. While benign moles are symmetrical, round and have even borders, cancerous growths (melanoma) are asymmetric, have dark brownish black colors and uneven borders—they are also evolving. The other two types of cancerous growth are basal cell carcinomas, which look like small pearls (often on the face and hands), and squamous cell carcinomas, which may look like crusty areas.

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POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

Let’s face it, your clients spend more time with you than they do at the dermatologist, and when fall comes around, after all that fun under the sun and the tan starts to fade, they come to you (with brown spots, extra freckles, a new fine line or two) to get their skin back on track. Now is the time for you to not only help reverse the effects of summer but set them straight about sun damage. “Sun damage occurs from over exposure to the sun, not wearing sun protection and not eating the proper foods to help fight off UVA and UVB rays,” says Ildi Pekar of Ildi Pekar Skin Care in New York, NY. “While spending time outside, even on gloomy days, the sun’s rays can still penetrate the skin. That is how strong it is.” Sun damage can have short and long-term effects, which are worth going over to select the proper course of treatments.

MYTH#3

MYTH#4

DEBUNKING THE MYTHS Arm your clients with the proper tools— sunscreens should be available in your retail area year round—on the beneficial treatments you can provide them with to fight off the signs of aging from basking under the sun (see “Sun Damage Reversal” on page 55) and educate them on sun exposure and sun damage, starting with the basics.

is that every time they go out, they need sunscreen on. That is not a good idea,” says Russ. “You have a higher risk of vitamin D deficiency than sunburn.” Russ says that the key is to differentiate a casual outing, such as a run to the post office and a prolonged outdoor activity. “If you are out for 10-15 min, get some vitamin D,” Russ says.

MYTH#1

MYTH#2

Sunscreen is necessary at all times. Overall, the answer is yes. Steve Finley of Rubber Ducky Sunscreen feels that sunscreen is indeed necessary. “[M]y feeling is that it is not a myth,” says Finley. “There is now proof that UV rays will age your hands while driving, and there is a trend to apply natural sunscreen on the back of hands while driving.” TiZO’s CEO Dr. Harry Fallick concurs. “[...] If you want to reduce and prevent premature skin aging, daily sunscreen application, with adequate re-application is simply the least invasive approach,” Fallick says. However, Michael J. Russ of Oceana Naturals argues that one should take more than sunburn and aging into account. “The fear that people have

If the weather is cloudy or rainy, UV protection is not needed. Not quite. Russ says two important factors come into play—not to mention the reason behind the outing. First, one needs to be aware of the UV index (the international standard that measures the strength of UV radiation). “Anything more than a UV level of 5 is rather strong,” says Russ, explaining that at this level and with long exposure, people put themselves at risk for sunburn—daily UV indexes are available online. “Deep dermal penetrating UVA is the same all day and every day,” Fallick adds. “Since this radiation travels millions of miles, a little cloud cover will not stop it significantly.”

If your client’s skin shows no signs of short-term sun damage they will have no long-term consequences. Not true. “Sun damage is caused by free radicals, something you cannot see,” says Russ. “You can get sun damage every time you go outside. It occurs slowly even if you do not have signs of sunburn.” Long-term effects can show up 10 to 12 years later, says Beverly Fox-Crismond, spa director of The Spa at One Ocean in Jacksonville, FL. This is where the crucial work of spa and salon specialists comes into play.Advise your clients on proper “take-home” remedies. Pekar sends her clients off with tips for protection they can do at home, including using a vitamin A, C and E serum, protecting skin with SPF, and eating antioxidant rich foods (such as tomatoes, blueberries, cranberries and plums) to boost the skin’s ability to fight UV radiation. Then set up a plan of action for periodical treatments that will work on reversing the signs of aging and sun damage, making sure that they understand that the key is consistency. However, there will be times when clients must be sent away—temporarily. “If the skin is damaged beyond my expertise,” says Pekar, “I recommend seeing a dermatologist.” n

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POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

Water protects from UV radiation. It depends. “If you are underwater,” says Russ, “the likelihood of sunburn is rather low.” Yet, he warns, on top of water, UV radiation is intensified because of the reflection of the water. Finley agrees, adding, “you have to get several feet deep in the water to receive UV protection,” (an important piece of advice for outdoor pool treatments). Fallick warns, “water, snow and sand amplify ultraviolet radiation, making it more important to wear sun protective products.”

REVERSAL EFFECTIVE TREATMENTS AND INGREDIENTS by Karina Timmel

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

SUN DAMAGE

POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

People spend all year trying to smooth, clear, brighten and firm skin, and prevent new wrinkles as well—all year, except for summertime, that is. All those efforts are often thrown out of the window for the recreation that comes with the hot season. Come fall, the effects of all the fun under the sun become more apparent and top of mind. “Excessive sun exposure is responsible for most of the sun damage associated with aging skin. It accumulates slowly over time. While some of the sun damage is merely cosmetic, other effects, such as skin cancer, are more serious,” says Sung Moon Kim, licensed esthetician at White Salon and Spa in Atlanta, GA. “As we age, the collagen and elastin fibers of the skin naturally weaken. This weakening happens at a much fast[er] rate when the skin is frequently exposed to ultraviolet rays.” Now is the time to get your clients back on track and help them reverse the effects of sun damage. Spa and skin care experts discuss what works for their businesses and customers.

SUN DAMAGE 101 First, it is important to make the distinction between hyperpigmentation caused by internal factors (such as hormones) and external factors (such as sun damage in the form of sunspots and freckles), both exacerbated by the sun. “The corrective treatment of hyperpigmentation should affect all layers of the epidermis. If it is hormonal [it] is a complex issue to treat— one that clients have to make an ongoing ef-

If clients are treating hyperpigmentation, I advise them to treat it at night, and protect during the day.

fort with,” says Amy Anderson, owner of Pure Aesthetics & Skin Care in Atlanta, GA. Asking a client when the hyperpigmentation began, such as whether it started during a pregnancy, says Anderson, is important in order to differentiate skin discoloration triggered by hormonal changes or sun damage. “If it started during a pregnancy, for example, then it is likely melasma, which tends to show up as big patches under the eyes, on the forehead or around the mouth, or a butterfly pattern on the face,” says Anderson. Anderson also takes the person’s skin tone into consideration, and where they fall on the Fitzpatrick scale when evaluating how prone they are to sun damage.

EXFOLIATION Perhaps the most basic treatment to start off the fight against sun damage is exfoliation. Anderson advocates scrubs to clients as a nice exfoliating treatment to do at home a couple of times a week in between spa treatments. “No scrub alone is going to change pigment,” Anderson notes, “but it will prep the surface.” With that take-home treatment taken care of, Anderson goes to work and begins her clients’ sun damage reversal routine with microdermabrasion. “Microdermabrasion is a tool that will help exfoliate and resurface the skin to provide better penetration of the actives you apply on it to reverse sun damage,” she says. Anderson says she has also found great success in reversing sunspots, freckles and fine lines for her clients with a series of trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels combined with light emitting diodes (LED) therapy. “We mainly use TCA at our spa because of the low risk of reactivity in people,” Anderson says. “After our TCA peels, most clients look pretty normal since the peels do not cause a lot of inflammation in the skin. We do a cooling mask on the skin after the peel, too. Most clients look great and happy from the moment they leave,” Anderson says. She also notes that the amount of exfoliation and follow-up treatments depends on the client. “I educate them on how often to come in, what a good home care routine would be and what to realistically expect from the results before they head out the door. Younger skin typically responds better and faster, of course, than mature, sun-damaged skin. It is important to let them know what to expect up front the best that you can.”

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September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

photos: Shutterstock.com

POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

Peels have been highly successful to reverse sun damage at The Houstonian Hotel Club & Spa in Houston, TX, says Spa Director Renae Cassam. Their Diamond White Facial has been a huge hit with customers and spa staff alike, Cassam says, adding that the 50 min treatment evens out skin with high concentrations of active ingredients, preventing skin from aging due to pigmentation. The facial consists of an application of a powerful peel with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) combined with carboxytherapy (the application of carbon dioxide) to renew skin and lighten dark spots thanks to its long-lasting exfoliation action— it also prevents the formation of new areas with uneven pigmentation. “The results are incredible and you can see them right away,” says Cassam, who recommends clients get one every 3 weeks and, in between, to keep an at-home routine that includes exfoliating once a week with a 10 min glycolic peel. “I recommend doing at-home peels on Monday nights at the start of the work week. Cleanse, do your glycolic peel, super hydrate after and go to bed!”

HYDRATION A key part of sun damage reversal and to keep skin looking young, says Dr. Marina Peredo, founder of Spatique Medical Spa in Smithtown, NY, involves hydrating and nourishing skin often. As such, Spatique offers an Oxygen Facial that restores moisture in the skin by employing pure oxygen along with 87 different vitamins, minerals, enzymes and amino acids. Peredo often recommends this facial to clients to treat everything from sun damage to acne and rosacea, and for those who have had peels, microdermabrasion or laser resurfacing to nourish and hydrate the skin. To boost the skin’s hydration on a daily basis, Peredo encourages clients to cleanse with a moisturizing cleansing cream (not a drying soap); use a toner that balances pH levels; and apply a serum that contains growth factors and antioxidants twice a day all over the face and décolleté and around the eyes—she also advises the use of a day cream. She adds, “if clients are treating hyperpigmentation, I advise them to treat it at night, and protect during the day.”

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POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

To increase hydration in clients’ parched skin due to summer sun damage, Anderson uses ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (a water binder), and niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3) that hydrate and help with redness and corrects pigment like sunspots. For intense body hydration, Cassam always recommends Trellis Spa’s Citrus Drench, which also comes in a facial. “It is our number one body treatment,” she says. Ideal for skin that has been damaged by the sun and free radicals in the environment, Cassam says, this body wrap begins with a citrus scrub followed by a whipped vitamin C soufflé mask to stimulate and revitalize the skin. Natural ingredients, such as crystallized honey, shea butter, ascorbic acid, and orange juice protect the skin from dryness and premature aging, resulting in tighter, firmer skin. The 100 min version includes a vitamin C firming serum and massage.

THE POWER OF LIGHT Light therapy is yet another power tool in the fight against sun damage. Laser, LED, and Intense Pulse Light (IPL) are technologies, which show many benefits in reversing unappealing cosmetic changes in skin due to sun exposure. Professional LED machines can minimize fine lines and wrinkles, treat sun damage and stretch marks and reduce redness. At Pure Aesthetics & Skin Care, LED treatment is used to plump up aging skin by boosting collagen. First developed by NASA, LED works by sending energy-producing packets of light into the deeper layers of the skin. Red light LED stimulates the fibroblasts that produce collagen, which gives young skin its plump look. “The skin has the ability to absorb light and use it as a source of energy to stimulate a healing response. The LED light improves skin tone and clarity, and is great for everyone, from clients with rosacea because it reduces inflammation, to African Americans whose skin cannot handle lasers, and is gentle and safe for pregnant women,” Anderson explains. Spatique Medical Spa provides clients with various laser treatments, depending on their specific sun-damage and lightening needs.

Their IPL photo facial works well for patients with fair to medium skin types, says Peredo, and treats skin redness, tiny veins and brown spots. Peredo recommends this treatment as a series of three to five 30 to 45 min sessions, spaced 4 to 6 weeks apart. Another laser treatment that has shown great results for Peredo is CO2 fractional therapy, which delivers a laser beam deep into the skin to stimulate a natural healing process that replaces damaged tissue due to the sun. “It works exceptionally well to treat mild to moderate wrinkles and age spots,” Peredo says. “It is also important to note that you should not get this done in the summer.” She recommends one to three sessions spaced 4 to 6 weeks apart.

FIRMING Skin firmness also takes a toll due to sun exposure, and as people age, sagging skin replaces the plumpness that is inherent to youth. To combat this, many spas like Touch Day Spa in Pacifica, CA, are incorporating a firming treatment into their menu that uses a microcurrent machine. The non-invasive, non-surgical treatment essentially works by emitting a gentle electrical stimulation that triggers the body’s natural skin repairing response and reprograms the muscle to stay taut. Microneedling (aka Collagen Induction Therapy), offered at Pure Aesthetics & Skin Care, is a minimally invasive treatment, where a tiny needle is used to prick the skin to improve tone and firmness. As each fine needle punctures the skin, it creates a controlled skin injury, which triggers the body to form new capillaries, collagen and elastin. “There is no scar tissue involved. It works for hyperpigmentation, antiaging and even acne scarring,” Anderson says. Ultimately, it is a combination of both professional skin-care treatments and at-home products that help clients achieve optimum sun damage reversing results. “I believe in the benefits of professional skin care, as well as educating my clients so that they can maintain a healthy skin care routine at home and take precautions against sun damage daily,” Kim says. n

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photos: Shutterstock.com

FRESHEN UP ON FIVE NATURAL TREATMENTS FOR SUN DAMAGE by Nathalie Gouillou

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

AU NATUREL SKIN BRIGHTENERS

NATURE’S WONDER Perhaps among the many promising ingredients to naturally brighten skin are licorice, lemon, resveratrol, green tea, and the controversial arbutin (a derivative of berries such as bearberry). Packed with antioxidants and vitamins that help speed cell turnover, these ingredients brighten sunspots, freckles and hyperpigmentation by resurfacing the skin.

“Niacinamide, or vitamin B, works as a melanin inhibitor, helping to limit pigment issues,” says Cici Coffee, CEO at Natural Body Spa and Shop with locations throughout the Southeast. “Retinol, or vitamin A, is very effective in treating sun damage or pigmentation as it regulates cell turnover and protects the cell against long term damage. Vitamin C is another natural lightener and brightener.”

LICORICE Licorice, from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, has more to offer than its unique anise and bitter flavor. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial, its components prevent UVB induced pigmentation and hinder the production of melanin (as it inhibits tyrosinase—the enzyme that controls melanin production—activity). Promising studies have shown a great skin brightening response to the topical use of licorice extract.

LEMON High in vitamin C, lemons are packed with antioxidants that fight off free radicals, contain natural alpha hydroxy acids and have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Their acids work as exfoliators by gently removing the top layer of the epidermis (the stratum corneum made up of dead skin cells), thus resulting in a brighter skin. The flavonoid nobiletin, which is abundant in citrus peels, has been found to be a potentially potent tyrosinase hinderer (some studies argue perhaps more effective than kojic acid—a known skin whitening agent).

RESVERATROL Resveratrol, found in red wine (red grape skin as well as knotweed plants), has anti-inflammatory properties, is also loaded with antioxidants, and some studies have shown that it can slow down melanin production and UVB induced cell color saturation. Some recent animal studies have demonstrated that topical application of resveratrol reduce tyrosinase and decrease hyperpigmentation.

GREEN TEA Much more than a soothing beverage, green tea offers many benefits for the skin and the fight against aging as it counts scores of beneficial properties such as anti-inflammatory, and is loaded with antioxidants. Studies have

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photos: Shutterstock.com

POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

Porcelain skin has been a sign of beauty throughout the ages. In Europe’s Elizabethan period, upper class women were known to whiten their face with ceruse, a deadly combination of vinegar and white lead, which gave them that milky complexion they sought. Today some might argue that women continue to put vanity ahead of safety when it comes to the color of their skin, and if a caramel tan is more of the order—at least in the West—the issue now comes down to sun damage, uneven pigmentation and those darker patches of skin that come with fun under the sun (not to mention age and other skin conditions such as melasma). Yet with all the fuss surrounding topical bleaching agents, many people seek alternatives to skin lightening by going the all-natural way (although touted as natural, pregnant women should seek approval from their physician before going for these skin brightening treatments).

shown an improvement in sun damage, with the regular use of green tea polyphenols (antioxidants), which reduce the activity of tyrosinase, thus conducing to brighter skin.

ARBUTIN

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

Arbutin, mostly extracted from bearberry, can be perceived by some as a controversial component because it is essentially a glucose attached to a hydroquinone—the chemical that has come to be associated with skin “bleaching,” cancer and other skin disfigurations (such as cutaneous ochronosis, or the bluish discoloration of skin). Although some hail arbutin as the natural hydroquinone, others argue that its binding to hydroquinone is enough to frown upon. Hydroquinone has been used for decades as a successful skin whitening agent. Animal studies in which hydroquinone was linked to cancer contributed to the ban of the chemical in cosmetic skin lightening in the European Union, Australia and several other countries in Africa and Asia. While in the United States the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which regulates cosmetics, proposed to remove hydroquinone from its generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE) designation in 2006 (in order to further study the chemical), the FDA has yet to submit its findings and final ruling. Therefore the drug is still available—with varying strength over the counter and through prescription. The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery Association stands by “the safe use of hydroquinone products” and supports the “continued studies to assess carcinogenic risks and signs of exogenous ochronosis.” With that said, arbutin has been found to be a strong melanin production inhibitor, thus to lighten skin effectively. “All skin care professionals should be educated and aware of the care and usage of the ingredients that they are working with, natural or chemical, and should be regulated by the state in which they perform their services,” says Leslie Crowell, an esthetician at Three-13 Salon, Spa and Boutique in Marietta, GA. If these ingredients might be power allies in your clients’ fight against hyperpigmentation, routine exfoliation is key. “Exfoliating peels are vital in the war against aging, pigmentation and sun damage to speed up the working of the skin and reverse the skin conditions,” Coffee says. Natural skin brighteners—which work great in series with monthly maintenance treatments—

will make skin more sensitive to UV. As such Crowell advises for “at least a 7 day period after a peel before any sun exposure” and “to utilize proper sunscreen protection, even in indirect sun, all year round.” While manual periodical exfoliation and chemical peels are crucial, the following are other skin lightening options your clients can benefit from: microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, laser skin resurfacing, light emitting diodes (LED) and Intense Pulse Light (IPL). Reversing sun damage is indeed possible, says Crowell. “This process is called recovery,” she adds. “Once the pigmentation is corrected by removing old pigmented skin, melanin inhibitors and sun protection along with antioxidants will ensure the skin stays in a healthy state.” n

Here are some skin lightening facials offered at spas: Lucy Pop Salon in Nashville, TN, features the Organic Afterglow Facial to revitalize and brighten a dull complexion while lightening age spots with licorice root. The treatment includes a therapeutic massage (75 min, $85).

Divine Skin Spa in Scottsdale, AZ, offers the Signature Lemon Zest Peel that is customized to the client’s specific skin type with lemon zest enzyme, proprietary serums and nourishing eye treatment (60 min, $168).

Above and Beyond Day Spa in Fredericksburg, TX, features the Wine Country Facial Massage, a facial massage to nourish skin and fight the signs of aging, which includes an application of oatmealclay mask saturated with resveratrol, followed by a resveratrol nourishing cream and a facial massage (60 min, $115).

Alexander Day Spa and Salon at the Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club in Lihue, HI, offers the Brightening Facial, which utilizes the natural lightening ingredient arbutin to brighten the skin and decrease the visibility of hyperpigmentation (50/80 min, $125/$180).

LNEONLINE.com • Page 61

GET YOUR MARKETING IN GEAR FOR FALL WITH THESE HELPFUL IDEAS by David Bremer

The wind of change is upon us once again, and if September brings summer to an end and points to the colder months ahead, there are quite a few things that must be kept from the big “freeze”—and your marketing plan is one of them! Now is a good time to get your post-summer promotions in gear and brush up on the necessary elements to create a top-notch working strategy. While nature gets to slow down, you cannot! Do not sit back and wait for word of mouth to spread about your business.

The elements of a good marketing plan PHASE 1 With post summer promotions in mind, think of the big Ws—who, what, where, when—and how! Who are your clients? Do you cater to hip and trendy businessmen and

women, always on the lookout for the latest treatments? Or do you cater to traditional types who like things done the old fashioned way? What services do they want to see on your menu? Brainstorming with your staff—those who get to develop more intimate relationships with your loyal clientele as they get to treat them one on one—and asking your guests directly (perhaps through a quick and easy survey) can guide you in the right direction. How should you price your services? Although copying prices from the competition might seem like a simple way to go, it is more likely to be the wrong way to go. A better approach is to look at the profit you wish to make on a specific treatment, take into account the operating expenses, compensation and product cost. A treatment priced at $100 with 40% operating expenses, 35% compensation and 15% product cost, will yield a 10% profit (or $10).

Page 62 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

POST-SUMMER PROMOTIONS

POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 63

Do not forget to package! Pick a few treatments, bundle them up, give it a creative name and you have just made an addition to your menu that costs you nothing and is sure to spruce up your business.

PHASE 3

EMAIL BLAST It is important to include an eyecatching and relevant subject line that applies to the client, Peredo says. “We might do an email blast with a title such as ‘Fall Cleanup’ or ‘Get Your Skin Ready for the Holidays,’ suggesting, depending on the client’s budget, a series of chemical peels, facials or IPL [intense pulse light] treatments.” Looking to reach out to a new target market? Now would be a great time to do so, as people come back relaxed from their summer vacations, ready to try new things and places. Take a good look at your business location and the demographic; perhaps you are close to a college, medical center or military base—this can give you a clue as to whom could be your next devoted clientele. A short and sweet YouTube video is an easy way to generate some attention to your business, as is taking advantage of all the technology that is out there, from your website to social medias, emails and print advertising (more on this below). Take into account the services that provide the biggest return on investment (ROI), and which ones you should capitalize on to make the biggest profit. Use past financial reports to analyze and highlight your most profitable postsummer sellers to help bring forth your best bet.

Then set a time frame—not only when your promotions will start, but how long they will last, all while keeping in mind that a good cycle typically lasts between 4 and 8 weeks. When you have all these questions taken care of, input the answers and timeline into a marketing plan template. There are plenty available online that usually include sections such as budget, calendar and objectives. It needs not be a formal document, but it should cover everything involved in promoting your business and be easily understood by all key employees.

PHASE 2 Partner with your product or equipment suppliers to get suggestions on specific treatments, obtain promotional material, in-store demos, and help you train your staff on the new protocols. Then pack your retail area with postsun at home care.

NEWSLETTERS Another good tip is to include educational information for your clients within your print or email newsletters. “We often write articles in our newsletters to help clients learn about sunblock, or transitioning skin care routines from summer to fall,” Peredo says.

IN-SPA SIGNAGE “We have a chalkboard easel so that we can change it often, and place it in a high-traffic area, such as near the storefront entrance to attract the most attention from people walking by,” Peredo explains.

DIRECT MAIL If you are sending out a direct-mail postcard or flyer, consider what kind of sun-damage-reversal messaging and imagery will make the greatest impact on your clients. “Our direct mail pieces highlight our Thermo-Lo machine because it offers amazing results. We

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photos: Shutterstock.com

POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

With all the above taken care of, you are ready to spread the message. Alexis Ferraraccio-Luczak, owner of Spa Alexis at Biggest Loser Resort Niagara in Java Center, NY, and Dr. Marina Peredo, founder of Spatique Medical Spa in Smithtown, NY, offer tips on how to reach out to your loyal clientele and attract newcomers.

PRESS RELEASE A press release should not only include all of the relevant facts and dates, but also points of interest, quotes and images consistent with your fall promotion. “A good press release anticipates questions people may have about the subject, and answers them in an interesting way,” Peredo says.

YOUTUBE YouTube can be a wonder tool. Armed with just your phone, shoot exciting 90 s videos of your business, showcasing equipment efficacy, treatment results, the unique talents of your team and even inspirational endorsements from your loyal clients. Short and to the point is key with YouTube viewers. With about 1 billion people watching as many as 6 billion hr of videos monthly (according to YouTube), it is truly a powerful, and best of all free, marketing opportunity.

CROSS MARKETING Take your plan to neighboring restaurants, fitness/yoga centers, bridal shops, women’s clubs and any other businesses you might want to crossmarket with, in order to design successful cross-promotions accordingly.

SOCIAL MEDIA Using your social media platforms is a great way to communicate with clients on an everyday basis and keep your services on top of everyone’s mind. “It is important to use social media not just for announcing new treatments, but for sharing new and exciting information about them to keep clients interested over time,” Peredo notes. Think of adding Twitter’s Promoted Tweets to your campaign to get the word out on your post summer treatments. It is not too costly and can go a long way if used properly. The secret of Promoted Tweets is to make sure you reach just the right audience (targeted by interest, gender or geography) for what you offer. Remember, repetition is key when you advance your fall sun-damagereversal offerings. “We are constantly telling people of our products and pro-

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

moting our services. We also feature a pre-purchase package at a discount for services that cannot be done during the summer months due to photosensitivity,” Luczak says.

PHASE 4Measure results. Track each promotion so that you can easily tell if the campaign was successful, and what was not worth the time and money spent. n

David Bremer is the market director of spa and fitness at the RitzCarlton Key Biscayne and Ritz-Carlton C o c o n u t Grove in Miami, FL. With more than 20 years of experience in the spa industry, Bremer started his career in 1991 at Walt Disney World in resort and spa operations, before continuing on other opportunities that took him to Seattle, WA, and led to his return to Florida in 2005.

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POST-SUMMER SKIN REVIVAL

show before and after pictures of different brown spots and the skin after the removal on men and women. We also educate men to the benefits of this machine, because men, too, want to look their best,” Luczak says.

POST-SUMMER

SKIN RESCUE HOME CARE REGIMEN 7. 4.

10.

1. HYDROPEPTIDE

5. DERMAWARE

8.PFB VANISH

2. PCA SKIN

6. PROVENCE COSMETICS

9. EMK PLACENTAL

• Anti-Wrinkle Perfecting Crystals hydropeptide.com

• Nutrient Toner pcaskin.com

3. CIRCADIA • Post Peel circadia.com

4. TEI SPA

• Resurface Body Cleanser dermaware.com

• Soothing Cream Mask for Bikini Areas and Legs pfbvanish.com

• Smooth Exfoliating Care provencecosmetics.com

• Wrinkle Relaxing Toner emkplacental.com

7. JINDILLI

10. BIO-THERAPEUTIC

• Hydra-Opulence jindilli.com

• AQUAFUSE foamPeel bio-therapeutic.com

• Sea Salt Scrub teispa.com

Page 66 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

MUST-HAVES...

17.

12. 14. 16.

18.

11.

13.

15.

19.

11. ILIKE

14. LUMAVERA

17. LAC TAUT

12. ULTRALUXE

15. SOTHYS

18. CHRISTINA FOREVER YOUNG

• Fibrous Stonecrop Gel Mask szepelet.com

• Lightening Mask ultraluxeskincare.com

13. OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKINCARE

• Tropical Mango Barrier Recovery Mask osmosisskincare.com

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

• Skin Perfection Peel lumavera.com

• Gommage Masque 2 in 1 sothys-usa.com

16. SAIAN • Enzyme Mask saian.net

• Gold Standard Collagen Infusion Mask renewalliance.com

• Radiance Moisturizing Mask christina-cosmeceuticals.com

19. BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY • Mini Peel Pads bellaschneiderbeauty.com

LNEONLINE.com • Page 67

+ CLEANSING + HYDRATING

3. 8.

1. KARIN HERZOG • Remedy Face Cream karinherzog.com

2. NATURE PURE LABS • Age Antidote Complex naturepure.com

3. THE CRAVE COLLECTION • Hands Free Skin Brightener thecravecollection.com

4. ENSPRI

• Intense Night Renewal enspriskincare.com

5. PREMIER BY DEAD SEA PREMIER • Pearl White Cream premierdeadsea-usa.com

6. MATIS PARIS

• Response Corrective Hyaluronic Performance myrdm.com

7. LIFELINE STEM CELL SKIN CARE • Daily Defense Complex lifelineskincare.com

10.

8. RA FOR MEN

• ReCharge Cell Renewal Compound ramethod.com

9. DERMAESTHETICS BEVERLY HILLS • Colorlite Plus dermaestheticsusa.com

10. BIO JOUVANCE

• Plant DNA Skin Defense Gel/Cream biojouvance.com

Page 68 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

+ EXFOLIATING... BRIGHTENING

MORE...

19.

17.

15.

AND

22.

12. 13. 23.

11.

14.

11. LIRA CLINICAL • Mystiq iLuminating Oil liraclinical.com

12. LE MIEUX • Rx Complex Serum lemieuxcosmetics.com

13.RHONDA ALLISON

• AGE Less Anti-Glycation Serum Enhanced rhondaallison.com

14. HALE COSMECEUTICALS • Royal Silhouette Total Serum halecosmeceuticals.com

15. INNARAH

• Line Smoothing Treatment Sérum innarah.com

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

16.

18.

20.

21.

16. FARMHOUSE FRESH

20. DERMAWARE

17.SESHA SKIN THERAPY

21. ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE

• Spotted Leaving Spot and Pigment Lightening Serum farmhousefreshgoods.com

• Cell-White Lightening Emulsion seshaskin.com

18. DERMAQUEST • Retinol Brightening Serum dermaquestinc.com

19. GLYMED PLUS

• Amino Acid Treatment Serum with PC-10 glymedplus.com

• Go Spot Go Gel dermaware.com

• Bright Skin Licorice Root Booster Serum us.eminenceorganics.com

22. CONTROL CORRECTIVE • Crystal C Serum controlcorrective.com

23. ACADÉMIE SCIENTIFIQUE DE BEAUTÉ • Brightening Esssence myrdm.com

LNEONLINE.com • Page 69

by Amanda Clinton Winter

photos: Shutterstock.com

spa

all that jazz: music inspired treatments

From the moment man was able to develop some dexterity, he dedicated time to create tools from which melodious sounds would emanate: flutes, percussions and stringed apparatus.

Music is inherent to humans, it speaks to our very souls. All sorts of feelings arise and are pacified with the simple tune of a song. Ancient civilizations from around the world understood the very power of sound, and incorporated chants and various instruments into their spiritual ceremonies and celebrations, while medicine men prescribed music to their ailing patients. Music has always been the norm at spas and salons,

where seemingly otherworldly sounds relax clients as they surrender their bodies and minds to your services. If playing lovely tunes for the clients’ contentment is the top option at most locales, others are following a somewhat different and innovative route by integrating sounds with treatments. F ro m r h y t h m i c m a s s a g e s t o the beat of a tune, massage tables with built-in speakers that will have your client “vibrate” to the music, to complete silence in soundproof rooms (lack of noise, after all, could be “music to one’s ears”), mixing sound with treatments is a fun way to spruce up your menu and arouse your guests’ curiosity—just let the music take you!

RHYTHMIC MASSAGES If some clients like it hard (think strokes), some also like it loud and… spicy! The Ritz-Carlton South Beach in Miami Beach, FL, offers the Rhythm Massage, which combines the distinct flavor and culture of Miami by using Latin inspired music with the flow of the massage. The energizing massage incorporates cross friction and percussion movements in sync with the upbeat music. It is performed using effleurage and long strokes following smooth and sensuous beats (50 min, $155). Not a fan of Latin music? Take your pick! Rock ‘n roll, country, reggae and even rap—any type of music will do. Have fun discussing the options with your staff, come up with your signature music-inspired treatment

Page 70 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #201 on reader service card

spa | all that jazz and pick an original name. Or go one step further and follow the rhythm of the song with your sticks as you melt your client’s knots away. Leaf it Up Lifestyle MedSpa in Hollywood, FL, offers the Bamboo Breeze Massage. This sleek and exotic massage incorporates a rhythmic motion with bamboo stalks of varying lengths and diameters to provide deep tissue work (60 min, $160).

LET IT SEEP IN Investing in a massage table with built-in speakers is an option if you want to offer treatments that will pulsate through your client. At the MotorCity Casino Hotel in Detroit, MI, the MotorCity Music Massage features high-tech and touch therapy. Sound speakers are embedded into the massage table to allow the client to hear and feel the music (50 min, $110).

ONE OF A KIND If the combination of massage and music go hand in hand, experimenting with water can be a fun way to go too. Music can also be incorporated into water treatments, such as bath or pool experiences. Miraval Resort in Tucson, AZ, offers the Himalayan Sound Bath, a treatment which combines water submersion and the soothing, vibrating sound of Tibetan singing bowls for a healing and relaxing experience (60 min, $95). There are also some gadgets out there that allow you to create your own music as you massage your client. MUUSA from Italy is one such tool. The very discreet apparatus straps onto the massage therapist’s arms and translates their movements into sound. Because no two sessions are ever the same, the music created is unique, customized specifically for your client.

HUSH... Then there are those moments in life when complete silence can be heavenly. Create a soundproof room to allow your guests to surrender themselves to their thoughts. At the Mavida Wellnesshotel & Sport in Zell am See, Austria, the soundproof Floatarium allows clients to experience the feeling of weightlessness and deep relaxation to improve concentration and creativity (30 min, $40). n

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September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Spa Say&you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #316 on reader service card

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SUN WORSHIPPERS’

LIFELINE Reversing skin damage with intense pulsed light

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Kristin Groop

Page 74 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

As autumn approaches, many of us can look at our skin and see the evidence of backyard barbecues and basking poolside with a good book. Our tans begin to fade and we notice the damage to our skin, wondering with remorse if it was such a good idea to fall asleep at the beach.

The sad reality is that enjoying time in the sun leads to visible sun damage. This damage often appears in the form of freckles, age spots, liver spots and sunspots. However, these brown spots are not the only reminder of sunny days outside. Over time, sun damage can also present as redness, broken capillaries or a persistent “sunburned” look to the skin. Fortunately, there are ways to reduce the appearance of sun damage and rejuvenate the skin. One of the more advanced treatments is intense pulsed light (IPL). IPL has come to the forefront of technologies available to treat different forms of sun damage. What is IPL, and how does it work? IPL photofacials or photorejuvenation treatments are non-ablative treatments requiring minimum downtime. These treatments are capable of altering the targeted skin component while leaving the surrounding tissue healthy and intact. Because of the gentle nature of these therapies, complete removal of pigmented spots typically requires several sessions. IPL technology has been around since the mid 90s. The treatment itself works much like a laser, but instead of having just one wavelength of light, the machine produces a spectrum of light

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

made up of a range of wavelengths. By selecting an appropriate filter, the trained skin care professional selects the wavelength range to target the damaged area caused by skin aging and sun exposure. The light is applied to an area and is absorbed into the selected target chromophore of the freckle, age spot, capillary, etc. A chromophore is made up of the pigmented molecules responsible for the color of the spot. The absorption of light creates heat, which causes damage to the chromophore of the targeted area (melanin for spots, hemoglobin for capillaries and water for stimulating collagen production for skin rejuvenation). As the light emitted from the IPL is absorbed into the selected target, the “magic” of selective photothermolysis begins. Breaking apart the words “selective” and “photothermolysis” makes it easier to understand what is happening in the skin. Photothermolysis breaks down as photo=light, thermo=heat and lysis=damage. The “selective” part of IPL refers to the tissue surrounding the targeted structures that are spared from any thermal injury. The IPL targeted tissue is broken down by heat, and releases the now damaged chromophores. The body either reabsorbs the chromophore (in the case of hemoglobin) or sheds the cell containing the chromophore (melanin being shed as skin cells are exfoliated). When skin rejuvenation is the goal, the water in the dermis is heated up, helping to start the wound cascade that produces and remodels collagen. The following are some of the conditions and objectives that may be addressed with IPL, and the mechanisms of action for each.

LNEONLINE.com • Page 75

spa | sun worshippers’ lifeline

SUN DAMAGE Sun damage can produce dark spots, also known as age spots or liver spots, which are harmless, large, flat, gray, brown, freckle-like circular spots that vary in size. Unlike freckles, these spots tend to persist, and do not fade or darken with the seasons. While “liver spots” are often seen on the skin of older adults, they have little to do with the liver or the aging process. These spots develop over time, as exposure to sunlight causes our skin to produce excess melanin. Freckles are similar to sunspots, but can change in prominence from season to season. Fair-skinned people, especially those with red hair, have a natural predisposition to them. The prominence of freckles is related to sun exposure, as sunburn makes them appear darker and larger. While harmless, many people seek treatment to reduce the appearance of sunspots and freckles.

BROKEN CAPILLARIES These are the little red vessels visible on the cheeks, sides of the nose and sometimes the chest and neck. They too are a result of overexposure to the sun on a long-term basis. While not effective on deeper vessels and veins, IPL treatments can help reduce superficial capillaries by their

absorption of light into the hemoglobin, with the resulting heat coagulating the vessels. The clinical endpoint is usually blanching of the vessel, or a darkening of it and mild swelling. Depending on the vessels being treated, the usual time between treatments is 3 to 8 weeks, and it may take three or more treatments for clearing of the broken capillaries.

SKIN REJUVENATION Some fine lines, superficial wrinkles and texture of the skin may be addressed by using IPL. This is most evident in areas of the face where the skin is thinner, such as around the eyes, mouth or forehead. In “photo rejuvenation,” longer wavelengths in the 1,200 nm (nanometer) range are used, as this range has an absorption in water that creates heat to cause an injury in the dermis. This injury stimulates the dermal fibroblasts to produce collagen and hyaluronic acid to help replace lost dermal volume. Usually, five treatments are required to see a softening in fine lines and skin texture. The treatments are performed a month apart, and follow up treatments

photos: Shutterstock.com

Neither sunspots nor freckles can change into cancerous growths. However, some skin cancers may resemble these spots. If you are uncertain about a pigmented spot, recommend that your client have it evaluated by a dermatologist.

When performing an IPL treatment for sunspots and freckles, the clinical endpoint the clinician is looking for is a darkening of the treated brown spots, sometimes with a red halo surrounding them. There may be a slight redness to the treated area, and it may feel like a sunburn. The brown spots will become a coffee ground appearance within 24 to 48 hr, and the spots will exfoliate naturally in 7 to 21 days, depending on the treatment and the client. The client will usually need three to five treatments spaced a month apart to visibly reduce the appearance of sunspots and freckles. It is important to remind the client that going back into the sun will cause more damage and reduce the success of the IPL treatment. Yearly follow-up IPL treatments help keep the skin looking clear.

Page 76 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

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spa | sun worshippers’ lifeline are needed to maintain results. IPL is not particularly effective in deep furrows on the face such as the nasal labial folds, which are often called smile lines or laugh lines. There are other treatments, such as fillers, for these issues. While there are many skin issues that can be treated with IPL, it is important to know the contraindications or who should not be treated. Because IPL is attracted to pigment, caution should be used in treating darker skin types. While Fitzpatrick skin types 1, 2 and 3 have little risk, caution should be used with skin type 4. Those with skin types 5 and 6 are not good candidates for

IPL treatments—the risk of burns increases as the darker pigmented skin becomes the target, rather than just the pigmented lesions. Other contraindications are epilepsy, use of photo sensitizing medications and some autoimmune disorders. As IPL treatments may also trigger the herpes virus in clients prone to cold sores, they will usually have their health care professional prescribe them an anti-viral prophylactic, such as valacyclovir, prior to treatment. Sun damage can be reversed with the proper tools and training. Clients love IPL treatments, as they

help to blend the complexion into one smooth, even canvas. Fall is the perfect time to offer this service and get your clients’ skin ready for a great holiday season! n

IPL TREATMENTS Hollywood Dermatology & Cosmetic Specialists in Hollywood, FL charges $300 for one IPL session (15 to 30 min) for the face, $810 for a package of three and $1,440 for a package of six. The practice specializes in cosmetic dermatology and sun damage.

Michelle J. Place, M.D., F.A.C.S. Plastic Surgery Center in San Ramon, CA offers IPL treatments for both pigmentation and vascular issues. The price of their three treatment (60 min each) IPL package for the face is $995. *Note that the price and time of each session can vary greatly depending on the severity of the damage being treated.

Kristin Groop, The Laser Chick®, is the CEO of Esthetic Advisor Laser Academy® (EALA). Groop is a licensed esthetician, esthetic instructor, certified laser technician and instructor. Her EstheCeuticals® line of skin care products was created specifically for microneedling and laser treatments. EALA offers advanced laser and microneedling trainings both live and online. Contact Groop at 480.656.4481 or estheticadvisor@gmail.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #271 on reader service card

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Home Health™ introduced everclen® for sensitive skin, a complete line of face, hand and body care created specifically for the unique needs of sensitive skin, says the company. The family of six products—cleanser, toner, face cream, eye cream, body lotion and hand cream—offers all the goodness of high-performing “clean” ingredients. Every formula contains plant-based nutrients and cleansers, calming botanicals, conditioning oils and skin-loving vitamins. everclen.com 888.645.2246

PURPLE POWER BioMat Spa Therapy’s Amethyst BioMat is a therapeutic healing technology that combines the power of infrared rays and negative ions conducted through amethyst crystals to deliver targeted pain relief, accelerate cellular renewal, and eliminate toxins, fatigue and stress, says the company. Offer a treatment to your clients that is not only rejuvenating and relaxing, but also has the capacity of sustained healing. biomatspatherapy.com 831.345.2430

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TIP OF THE

ICEBERG A quick Q&A on gratuity at spas

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Dori Soukup

Page 84 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

Tipping in the United States started just after the American Civil War. In the late 1800s, wealthy Americans traveling abroad to Europe witnessed tipping and brought the aristocratic custom back with them to show off their higher status, education and class.

Tipping originated in the United Kingdom, where customers would slip money to the waiter “to insure promptitude” (tip). Today people are expected to tip almost any time a service is rendered, no matter what is provided. The tip amount may vary from $2 for a doorman at a hotel, and up to 20% and more for waiters and spa practitioners. The tip amount spa and salon guests give may vary based on the quality of the service and the type of treatment they received—at least that is how it should be. However resort spas often make their own rules when it comes to tipping. Many resorts charge for services and tips upfront before guests even receive their treatments. By choosing to charge ahead of the service, these spas may potentially close the sales tickets and kill the upgrade and retail opportunity. Be aware also that in many states, mandatory service charges are not considered tips—which means that business employers are not required by law to share that extra money with their team.

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 85

business | tip of the iceberg Thus the seemingly basic rules of tips— among these that they are meant for the team and not the owner—are not quite that simple after all. Whether you are an employer or an employee, make it your obligation to know the rules of tipping before your start your business or take on a new job. Here is a simple Q&A to shed light on some common tipping concerns:

For Ronco, the concept of passing on the cost of credit card processing to the team not only defeats the purpose of tipping, it can create unnecessary complications in the payroll process. As such, YeloSpa assumes all the processing fees.

IS THE TIP CONSIDERED PART OF THE COMPENSATION MIX?

The best way to ensure that tips are managed properly is by charging them on the credit cards. With cash tips, it is wise to use small tip envelopes that can be sealed and returned to the receptionist. This is just what Kerschbaumer practices at her spa. “[Clients] can either give [the tip envelop] to the therapist or they can leave it with the receptionist who will then place the envelope in that therapist’s personal tip drawer,” she says. Cameras are also a must in the lobby and reception area to monitor retail, tips and overall behavior.

From the owner’s point of view, the tip could subsidize some of the compensation the owner pays. Some owners believe that it should be part of the compensation model. They argue that it is part of the income potential just like any other hospitality positions, from waiters to concierges and so on. Although this would not be appropriate for the spa industry, when it comes to tipping, many states allow for the practice of “tip credit,” which means that employers can pay their team less than minimum wage if the tips employees receive make up for the difference.

SHOULD ONLY CASH TIPS BE ACCEPTED AND/OR CAN THE TEAM BE CHARGED THE CREDIT CARD PROCESSING FEE? Tipping is a cost to an owner when the tip is left on the credit card. The owner has to pay processing fees and manage the accounting of the tip. This could add up to a big expense, which is why some owners now accept cash-only tips. Eva Kerschbaumer, owner of ESSpa in Pittsburgh, PA, only accepts tips in the form of cash or checks. She says that it allows the therapists to get their tips right away. This rule, however, puts clients who do not carry cash in an awkward position, and cheats the team of the additional income. Perhaps a preferred method can be to pass on the cost of credit card processing to the team and not tarnish the guest experience. Some states such as California, however, contend that the owner must pass on the totality of the tips to the team and pay the fee. Spa owners should take into account the cost of processing fees incurred by credit card tips when they create their compensation model. Nicolas Ronco, owner of YeloSpa in New York, NY, accepts tips in cash and credit card at the client’s discretion. It is, Ronco says, a client’s very last gesture before leaving the spa and shows appreciation for the services rendered.

HOW TO ENSURE THAT THE TIPS ARE NOT BEING STOLEN?

SHOULD TIPS BE CASHED OUT AT THE END OF THE DAY? If the tip was given in cash, then it should be cashed out daily to the team. If it was done by credit card, then it should not. This practice is a burden to the business, and cuts into the owner’s cash flow management. If a tip is given on a credit card, then the business owner should give it out with the paychecks. Ronco hands out credit card tips with paychecks every other week. This practice turns out to be best for both the business and practitioners—a good point of sale system (POS) software will allow owners and employees to keep track of tips. When therapists receive cash, they spend it a lot faster than when it comes in a paycheck. Thus, the team should be taught that tips are part of their income and not just icing on the cake. By having it as part of the check, it gives them the opportunity to better manage their finances.

SHOULD THERAPISTS SHARE THE TIPS WITH THE SUPPORT TEAM? Tip pooling, where tips are shared among employees, can be a rule within a business in some states if the owner chooses. Sharing a percentage of the tips with the support team can be great practice, as it can keep the team united and working together to help each other.

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business | tip of the iceberg This is a practice that Spa Marbella at the Mission Inn Resort in Orlando, FL, applies and it works really well! However, be aware that in some states, employees who receive tips cannot be required to share them with those who customarily do not—in addition, employers, and in some instances, managers and supervisors, cannot be made part of the pool.

SHOULD MEDI SPAS ACCEPT TIPS? Medi spas do not normally accept gratuities, yet some do. Club West Med Spa in Midlothian, VA, accepts tips on spa treatments but not on medical treatments. Nurses, physician assistants and doctors should not accept tips.

HOW TO HANDLE GUESTS WHO DO NOT LEAVE A TIP? If the guest does not leave a tip, it usually means they were not satisfied with the service, or it may be that they are not aware that it is customary. To help the team receive tips, the receptionist can say the following: “Your total for today is $150. This does not include gratuity, would you prefer to leave it on a credit card or cash?” This will give the guest options to choose from.

SHOULD THERE BE A SIGN SHOWING THE RECOMMENDED TIP AMOUNT? Forget the sign and focus instead on delivering a “wow” guest experience—the tip will follow. The most important thing to remember when it comes to tips is to take care of your clients and not worry about it. One of my favorite statements is, “When you give people what they want, you will automatically get what you want!” Practice this and your therapists will get their fair share of tips and more. n

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.

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LNEONLINE.com • Page 89

photos: Shutterstock.com

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COMMISSIONS,

GROUPON MEDICINE

and the corporate practice of

The three evils of the med spa industry by Alex R. Thiersch, J.D.

I became a self-proclaimed “med spa lawyer” more than 5 years ago. I say “self-proclaimed” because when I first started representing med spas and esthetic practitioners, there literally were no other lawyers in my state that practiced med spa law. The lawyers that represented med spas were corporate lawyers or health care lawyers, but none of them seemed to understand the nuanced issues that med spas faced on a daily basis. What I soon realized was that the practitioners themselves—plastic surgeons, med spa owners, nurses and estheticians—knew even less about the

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

rules and regulations than I had ever imagined. If the lawyers representing the clients do not know the law, how the heck could we expect the clients themselves to know it? Unfortunately, state regulators have never been impressed with the “I did not know” argument. Ignorance of the law, as they say, is not an excuse. And even though the state regulators themselves readily admitted that finding answers to basic med spa-related questions was difficult, if not impossible, that fact never stopped the state from slapping down hefty fines or suspensions for those who broke the law, even unwittingly.

LNEONLINE.com • Page 91

business | commissions, groupon and the corporate practice of medicine There are three main categories of violations that seem to generate the most trouble for medical spas: 1. Paying commissions to nurses, laser technicians, or other medical professionals for performing medical treatment. 2. Using “Groupon” or other revenue-sharing services to generate business. 3. Improperly structuring the ownership of the medical spa. Even a rudimentary understanding of these three issues will keep most medical spas out of trouble. At the very least, knowing these basic concepts will arm professionals with the right questions to ask when opening a new venture.

COMMISSIONS

are shocked when I reveal this fact to them. Paying commissions has become so prevalent that most professionals in medical spas not only think it is legal, they actually expect to be paid that way. But while every state is different, and while a few do not strictly prohibit fee-splitting, the majority of states have strict prohibitions on paying commissions for any type of medical treatment. This means that if you are paying commissions, your license is at risk.

GROUPON If you are a med spa owner, you are well aware of Groupon, the daily deals website that a year ago was deemed the “fastest growing company in web history,” according to Forbes Magazine. According to a Groupon sales rep, medical spas and salons are the leading target for Groupon, mainly because hair removal has become the best-selling service Groupon offers. Other Groupon offers for med spa treatments include chemical peels, skin tightening, body contouring and even Botox!

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When I speak at conferences and trade shows, I often ask the audience to close their eyes and raise their hands if they have ever paid, or received, a commission for injecting Botox. If they are honest, a full 80% of the audience responds that they have. But did you

know that receiving a commission for performing Botox or laser treatment is illegal in almost every state? The term “fee-splitting” refers to dividing or sharing fees from medical services between a physician and a non-physician. In most states, all fees generated for medical treatments must be paid directly to a physician or physicianowned corporation. No one other than the physician—including nurses, physician assistants, or any non-physician medical practitioners—may receive any share of a medical fee. Practically speaking, this means that if a patient comes into a medical spa for Botox or laser hair removal, the physician may not share a portion of the paid fee to any non-physician employee in the form of a commission or bonus. This means that commissions for Botox, laser treatments or injectables— or bonuses linked directly to any medical revenue—are strictly illegal. What is surprising is that this law has been on the books in most states for years, and yet most practitioners

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business

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LNEONLINE.com • Page 93

business | commissions, groupon and the corporate practice of medicine While many in the industry question the ethics behind discounting medical treatments on Groupon or similar sites at bulk rates, the more important issue is that offering Groupon-like deals may constitute illegal fee-splitting. While this is surprising to many, Groupon’s model is based upon the concept that a medical company (the medical spa) and a non-medical entity (Groupon) split revenues resulting from the coupon run by Groupon. That is the definition of fee-splitting in many states. While most states have yet to address the legal implications of Groupon, many states will start focusing on these practices as the industry grows. One thing is certain: Groupon is not backing away from the esthetic industry. Laser hair removal and Botox remain two of the largest grossing coupons for Groupon, and many argue that business provided by medical spas, salons and day spas is the only reason Groupon is still around. Before running a Groupon,

I always counsel my clients to consider two things: First, is the potential revenue generated from the Groupon worth losing your license over? And second, even if you do not lose your license (most states are not vigilant in prosecuting Groupon users), will Groupon attract the type of clients you need to build your business? Both questions should be carefully considered before proceeding with a Groupon.

CORPORATE PRACTICE OF MEDICINE The “corporate practice of medicine” is a sticky concept, but one that has significant implications throughout the industry. In essence, this doctrine states that only physicians may practice medicine. First of all, non-physicians may not practice medicine. Second, they may not own a business or corporation that practices medicine. In other words, the practice of medicine is the sole domain

of physicians and physician-owned corporations. The policy behind this rule is that physicians, not corporate profit, should be the driving influence behind medical care. This becomes problematic when physicians and non-physicians wish to partner in a med spa, which is becoming increasingly common as the industry has grown. Non-physicians, seeing the potential for large returns, have begun opening laser centers and med spas. While this is allowed in some jurisdictions, in most states this is a huge no-no. In Illinois where I practice, for instance, the state boards have prosecuted many med spas because the ownership structure is improper. In order to run a medical facility in Illinois, the business must be owned solely by physicians. California has a different set of guidelines—there, only licensed health care professionals (including non-physicians) can own any part of a medical spa. Although there is a general prohibition

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business | commissions, groupon and the corporate practice of medicine Alex R. Thiersch will be presenting the topic, “The Three Evils of the Spa Industry: Commission, Groupon and the Corporate Practice of Medicine” at the Medical Esthetics in Your Spa Seminar at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, CA on September 8. Visit LNEonline.com information.

for

on the practice of medicine by corporations, the California “Moscone-Knox Act” establishes the right of physicians to incorporate and operate professional medical corporations. If the med spa is organized as a professional corporation, 51% of the corporation must be owned by licensed physicians, but the other 49% may be owned by non-physicians, such as registered nurses and physician assistants.

The bottom line is that the rules vary widely from state to state, and it is imperative that any med spa owner consults with an attorney before ownership structure is finalized. It is always cheaper to structure ownership correctly at the beginning than to re-structure a company after learning that it is set up illegally.

IN CONCLUSION Medical spas and laser centers are becoming bigger and bigger targets of law enforcement. Lawsuits and prosecutions are on the rise. As the industry grows, scrutiny and oversight will grow with it. I have only scratched the surface of the many rules and regulations that apply to medical esthetic practices, and it is crucial that practitioners get the guidance they need from a qualified health care attorney. And I would be remiss if I did not refer back to the

super-important caveat that different jurisdictions have different laws, and some jurisdictions are stricter than others. It is imperative to check with your local attorney and proceed with care. n

Alex R. Thiersch, J.D. is a partner at Thiersch & Associates, a Chicago based law firm, and founder of the American Med Spa Association (AmSpa), an association dedicated to educating the medical spa industry on the rules and regulations that affect it. He can be reached at alex@americanmedspa.org.

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PATHWAY

RETAIL SUCCESS Business model and philosophy by David Suzuki

Retail, retail, retail. We are all familiar with the concept, and have a general understanding that this is a crucial component to the success of any business. Yet many are uncertain as to how this might look for their business as a skin therapist. To begin with, let’s bring the retail model in perspective with numbers and percentages that will create a ratio for you to work with that can be used as a barometer for your business. The ultimate business model in the world of skin care suggests that your retail sales will make up between 40% and 50% of your total sales. This means that for every $1,000 of revenue that you generate, $500 will be via services and $500 will be via retail sales. Another way to look at it is that every client who comes in for a service should be taking home a retail product purchase that is equivalent to their service cost. Sounds easy enough on paper, right?

YOUR BAROMETER The first step in succeeding with your retail business is to understand the ultimate model, and then realize where you are in relationship to this model. Industry experts suggest that the average skin care business idles in the range of a 10% retail, 90% service ratio. A model with these ratios defines a business that is completely dependent on service dollars. Since there is no flexibility in the number of hours in a day, you can quickly calculate how limited this business model really is.

MODEL SHIFTS There is no one miracle change that can be implemented that will transform your business, but rather a complete model shift that must take place with your business philosophy and your

perception of what retail represents. Many skin therapists do not like the idea of retail because they are uncomfortable with the idea of selling. Let’s break it down like this. We as skin therapists also live and function in the same world as the rest of the population. Each day we make decisions on what to buy, what we believe is a good value, and what fits our lifestyle. Not everything works out perfectly, yet we generally feel good about our purchases and investments because we believe in them. Skin care is no different; as skin therapists, we must fully believe in what is on our retail shelves. If we can achieve this very simple objective, we are no longer selling. We are now simply and sincerely sharing information and advising our clients to use what we believe is the best product(s) available.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

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business | pathway to retail success

A quick way to discern what you and your team believe in is to run a quick retail sales report for the last 6 months. You will find that 80% of the purchases consist of 20% of the SKUs that you currently stock. With every product line, there are arguably parts and pieces of it that speak to you and your business. If there are 100 SKUs in the line, and only 20 of them are selling, how much sense does it make to continue to stock the remaining 80?

ACTIVE PARTICIPATION IN DECISION MAKING How many times have you made a purchase that seemed like a great idea at the time, only to find out later that it was not? Performing good and thorough due diligence when considering an investment is crucial. Remember that the smaller the commitment (4-6 SKUs as opposed to 25-40 SKUs), makes the process much faster as it is easier to test, educate and implement the new products in your professional services and retail shelves.

When you consider the overwhelming idea of making a brand change, there is no better way to perform good due diligence than to take a small group of another line that you are considering and see how it performs. If it meets your team’s objectives, you can make a firmer commitment to inventory, consider other SKUs in the line that could also be interesting, and begin the migration of your old brand off the shelves and out of the treatment room at an expedient yet comfortable pace. Thorough testing of new products is crucial before considering taking on a new brand for your business. Your testing should include your team, family, friends and of course best top tier clients. Create a multiple choice questionnaire for them to fill out as they use and learn about the product(s). Do you like the product for your skin? Do you like the texture and natural fragrance? Do you like the packaging? How much would you pay for this product? Did you find that the brochure adequately explained the product? Would you buy this product again?

Take the time to talk with each person involved in the testing group so that they can elaborate on their answers.

BASE LINE AND ACCENT PRODUCTS Have you ever been to a restaurant with a menu that seems to go on forever? Retail experts agree that choice and selection are key, and a very significant part of today’s culture. Yet too much selection can be overwhelming. A solid retail model suggests that you may have up to two “base lines” and then an array of “accent” products from other lines to spice up your retail offerings. Regardless of how many SKUs a manufacturer may have, it is pertinent for you to select what you

believe is applicable to your business. After all, you know your business better than any manufacturer or sales consultant. Yes, they may have 50-90 SKUs in the line and would like you to take them all, but it is up to you to stand strong and focus in on 15 to 20 that speak to you. If you choose to go with a second base line, make sure that it has a sharp enough contrast from your first baseline to make sense.

DEFINING ACCENTS Accent products are just that, products that can accent a retail environment, create excitement, interest and intrigue. They should be stand alone unique products, have adequate marketing, show efficacy studies proving the science, used in professional services, be available for retail, and be able to be used along with your base lines. Stand alone accent products: Products that are complete by themselves. They can be used with other base lines and easily added into other product regimens. Adequate marketing: Individualized brochures that market and focus only on these products. Point of purchase box and shelf talkers, window banners, and display marketing stands and tables. Unique: The products must have a unique story. The ingredients, the science, their objectives, the packaging, the colors. They must have ‘pop’! Science: The products must have sound clinical efficacy studies that prove the science and mechanism of action of how they achieve results. Cross-over product: The products must be used in professional services as well as be available on retail shelves. The professional service is where we have our opportunity to educate each client on the benefits and use of the product and why it should be used at home, and in what manner.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

WHAT IS HOT AND WHAT IS NOT

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1 8/4/14 business | pathwaySILCSKIN_AD_V.pdf to retail success

1:41 PM

There is no one miracle change that can be implemented that will transform your business, but rather a complete model shift that must take place with your business philosophy and your perception of what retail represents.

As skin therapists, we want more than anything to help others feel good, beautiful and confident about themselves. The average client sees her skin therapist once every 6-8 weeks, which means that for every one service, they may be treating their skin 90 to 180 times themselves at home. How can we truly help our clients if we do not educate them on how to take care of their skin at home with what we believe are the best products available? In our business and in our lives, we must believe in what we do, our tools, our products, our team and our partners. Remember that you are unique and one of a kind, and that you know your business and your clients better than anyone. Regardless of whether you want to take one product from a brand, or the entire line, you deserve excellence—do not let anyone tell you different! n

CMY

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #185 on reader service card

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LATEST ADDITION

BIZNEWS

FRESH OFFICEHOLDER

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

HydroPeptide announced the appointment of Neal Kitchen, Ph.D. as executive vice president of strategy and development. Dr. Kitchen has more than a decade of protein biology research and experience with product development, marketing, and sales. He has an extensive research background in epigenetic regulation and cellular signaling responses. hydropeptide.com 800.932.9873

Tecniche welcomed Beata Goodman to its team as their Chicago Brand Advocate. Goodman has been a licensed esthetician for 18 years and a licensed massage therapist for 15 years. Her career focus is providing on-site education to spas and medspas in Illinois, Indiana and Wisconsin, while also acting as a Continuing Education Sponsor for license renewal for estheticians and other personal care industries in Illinois. tecniche.com 480.404.7409

ART OF TANNING NEW DEGREES CIDESCO announced the launch of three new Diplomas, which will appeal to a growing number of students keen to enter or develop progress into this dynamic and expanding industry, says the company. The three new qualifications include: The Spa Therapy Diploma, Beauty & Spa Management Diploma and Media Make-up Diploma. “The introduction of our new diplomas will open up careers in the beauty and spa industry to a great many more people whilst still maintaining standards,” said CIDESCO President Anna-Cari Gund. cidesco.com 480.281.0424

South Seas® Skin Care announced the opening of a training center in Newport Beach, CA, where courses will focus on private, individualized attention with three classes to choose from, says the company. The Newport Beach location is conveniently located across the street from the John Wayne/ Orange County/Santa Ana airport with easy access to hotels, restaurants, shopping, and of course the beach! southseasskincare.com 970.461.9200

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organic & wellness

the beauty of breath by EuGene Gant

EDITORS’ NOTE While Robert Sachs’ article in our July issue, “The Wind of Life,” touched on breathing exercises as a way to rid your clients of negativity and bring their focus back to the present and their upcoming treatment, yogi EuGene Gant reveals how two simple breathing techniques can bring power enhancements to your facials… for proper breath means glowing skin.

YOGIC BREATH (2 MIN) This is, to me, the way we should all be breathing. Have your client sit in a chair and get them to breathe in slowly through their nose as the stomach expands out like a balloon. Have them exhale, allowing the navel to fall back toward the spine. To make it easier, have them place their hands over the navel and instruct them to let their belly move the hands as they inhale and exhale.

photos: Shutterstock.com

INHALE DEEP AND SLOW, hold the breath, exhale slowly and relax… You have just extended your life span, opened up and massaged vital organs, as well as improved the quality of your skin, hair and nails—all this with one complete breath. With a simple task that brings such benefits, one question comes to mind: Why is it that so many people are aging faster and are afflicted with health issues earlier in their lives? Breathing is a natural act that too often comes to be “involuntary;” few of us think about inhaling and exhaling as we go about our busy days, yet proper breathing is key to glowing, healthy, beautiful skin. Enhance your clients’ facials by starting off their experience with these two simple breathing techniques that will have oxygen revitalize their cells, relax and detox muscles, all while promoting

healthy, vibrant skin, eyes and hair. Adding 4 min of conscious breathing as a preliminary exercise to any facial is sure to boost the immediate results of the treatment and keep your clients coming back for more. When your clients are worried, depressed, stressed or angry, their bodies release adrenaline (the hormone epinephrine) in the blood, increasing the level of oxidation within cells and organs—getting the heart to pump faster—which promotes the aging process. Add to that harmful chemicals in household products, pollution, toxic hormones and pesticides in foods, and you get premature aging and dull looking skin. Guide your clients into proper breathing as a foundation to your facials to improve the outcome and bring forth more beautiful skin with these two basic breaths:

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organic & wellness | the beauty of breath This will feel strange as most of us have become accustomed to only breathing into our chests—which can lead to stress, anxiety and insomnia. Yet this simple breath can regulate digestion, give the organs a vital massage for detoxification and revitalize skin. I begin all of my yoga and meditation classes with this breath because of its power to center the mind and still the body.

SQUARE BREATH (2 MIN) This breath is done by inhaling, holding, exhaling and holding out the breath for equal amounts of time. The inhaling can be done either through the nose or mouth, but inhaling through the nose regulates the body temperature and controls the speed of breath. With your client sitting in a chair, have them slowly inhale while you count to five. Have them hold their breath while you count to five again, exhale all the air out, also with a count to five, then keep the air out, counting one, two, three, four, five… What you are having them do is slow down their breath cycle per minute, thus slowing down the aging process, lowering blood pressure and centering the mind.

Combine these breathing techniques with your facials and watch as your clients’ skin gets shinier, their eyes sparkle as they come out of your treatment feeling revitalized and peaceful all because you have just gotten them to breathe deeper… Kinda cool no? n

Join yogi EuGene Gant for an empowering demonstration of Shakti Naam Yoga at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, CA on September 7 and 8. Visit LNEonline.com for more information. EuGene Gant has been a student of divine spiritual wisdom for more than 15 years. As a certified meditation teacher, Naam Yoga therapist, and Harmonyum Healing practitioner, Gant seamlessly combines the stillness of the mind, advanced breath techniques, movement, and plenty of laughs for the spirit and heart. Page 108 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

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Few of us think about inhaling and exhaling as we go about our busy days, yet proper breathing is key to glowing, healthy, beautiful skin.

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SUPER

SPICE

Turmeric—the skin saving sensation! Turmeric continues to grow in popularity all over the world for its plethora of outstanding skin care benefits. Many research studies have shown that turmeric contains an abundance of anti-aging, antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and astringent properties.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

by Aasha Chang

Turmeric is derived from the roots of the plant curcuma longa, which is related to the ginger family. It is native to India and Indonesia, where it continues to be harvested. Curcumin is the main component of turmeric, which contains the powerful antiinflammatory and antioxidant properties turmeric is known for. It fights at the molecular level. It is an inhibitor that reacts with an enzyme associated with inflammation. Whether applied to the skin topically or blended into a daily smoothie, this super spice is the natural secret to healthy, beautiful and radiant looking skin.

MINIMIZES INFLAMMATION Inflammation is a sign that the body is attempting to protect us from a virus or infection of foreign bacteria. Often the site of inflammation appears red and swollen, and it may also feel warm and painful. Preventing inflammation is one of the most important steps to maintaining healthy skin.

ELIMINATES BACTERIA Turmeric is an effective anti-bacterial agent; it helps heal and rid the skin of bacteria for a clearer, healthier complexion. Turmeric is traditionally applied to cuts, wounds and burns to speed up the healing process.

CONTROLS ACNE This powerful spice can serve as a replacement for harsh chemicals to get rid of stubborn acne. The antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties of turmeric are superb for treating acne. It is the natural approach to cleanse the skin from any bacteria that may build up and reduce inflammation. Clean skin leads to clear skin.

RICH IN ANTIOXIDANTS Turmeric is known for its outstanding age-fighting antioxidant properties. Curcuminoids are powerful antioxidants derived from turmeric. Antioxidants prevent our cells from being destroyed.

FIGHTS OFF FREE RADICALS Antioxidants fight off free radicals by inhibiting cell oxidation. Curcuminoids neutralize and prevent the development of free radicals.

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skin | turmeric treatments at spas

PROMOTES ELASTICITY Turmeric is purported to increase the elasticity and thickness of skin, which prevents over-stretching of the skin. Many pregnant women in India apply a turmeric paste daily to avoid stretch marks from forming. Increasing the skin’s thickness also provides extra protection to prevent UV rays from penetrating the skin easily. Turmeric is also great for wrinkles as it thickens and firms the skin, which prevents sagging.

EVENS SKIN TONE Turmeric is also used for hyperpigmentation, eliminating toxic wastes and decongesting the body, regulating the production of sebum to prevent oily skin, clearing up blemishes, evening out skin tone and adding radiance for a natural, healthy glow.

A BRIDE’S BEST FRIEND Turmeric is customarily used in the beauty regimen of many Indian brides, a ceremony they often refer to as “haldi,” which takes place several days before their wedding. Haldi is the day when close relatives gather around and take turns applying a turmeric paste to the bride’s face and body. This provides glowing, flawless and healthy looking skin for their special day. n

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TURMERIC TREATMENTS AT SPAS Kabuki Springs & Spa, San Francisco, CA ● Javanese Lulur: This traditional Indonesian ritual begins with a massage using jasmine frangipani scented oil and continues with Lulur powder, a turmeric and rice skin scrub applied lightly to exfoliate and sweeten the skin. After the skin is cleansed, the body is pampered with a traditional yogurt application and an exotic flower bath. (80 min, $155 Mon-Fri; $170.50 Sat -Sun)

Silk & Stone, Portland, OR ● Traditional Eastern Botanical Facial: This signature facial recipe is based on ancient Indian and Pakistani traditions. Natural and organic formulas are used in this deep cleansing facial, which include skin purifying and healing ingredients like turmeric and ashwaghanda* to relax, purify and rejuvenate skin. The treatment draws out impurities, improves tone, softens skin and brings out a natural, healthy glow for all skin types. (60/90 min, $95/$140) *Ashwaghanda is a shrub with antibacterial and antioxidant properties that is used as a traditional Ayurvedic healing herb.

Aasha Chang has a bachelor’s of science degree in Biology. She is the founder and CEO of Super Skin Glow, LLC, which offers an exclusive line of Tumerica® products. To learn more, visit Tumerica.net. Feel free to contact her at SuperSkinGlow@gmail.com.

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ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS

UPDATED SEA GOODNESS

ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES

NATURAL BEAUTY Charme d’Orient’s White Mask celebrates the benefits of honey and royal jelly for an illuminated complexion, says the company. The mask is the result of an ancestral preparation that combines the virtues of minerals with the nourishing and restorative properties of honey and royal jelly. With its 100% natural composition, the mask suits all skin types. Applied once a week, it nourishes and repairs the skin. charmedorientusa.com 415.275.4579

Repêchage® has a new and improved Opti-Firm® Lift Cream! The skin firming daytime protection cream just got even better, says the company. Now infused with EcoCert Seaweed, organic aloe vera and propanediol, the cream helps achieve a dramatic reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and prevents the signs of aging. repechage.com 800.248.SKIN

SUSTAINABLE CARE

EARTHY GOODNESS The Rose Quartz Red Clay Cleanser & Mask (with mixing bowl and spoon included) from Crystalight Organics is exceptionally effective for deep cleansing, absorbing impurities and enriching the skin with minerals, says the company. A natural blend of exquisite mineralrich Rhassoul clay and organic herbs of rose, oatstraw, and green tea detoxifies and improves skin’s appearance and texture. crystalightorganics.com 203.340.0099

Caru Skincare Co, the all natural and handmade skin care company, just launched three new facial serums, formulated to absorb easily while effectively delivering results, says the company. The serums include: Rose Facial Serum with real organic rose essential oil, which helps dry skin; Frankincense Facial Serum, which balances and rejuvenates skin; and Immortelle Facial Serum, which helps control blemish prone skin. caruskincareco.com 347.669.2549

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image

fall nail trends by Deborah Lippmann

For every fashion week I attend, I leave inspired with new ideas, and feel challenged and motivated to create my own unique and modern looks. This past season, there were so many fun nail trends that came to life—it is priceless to be part of the creative process and see everything come together before it hits the runway. Here are some of my top looks of the season that are sure to wow your guests and keep them stylish as autumn approaches.

THE TWO-TONED NAIL I loved the elegant oval shapes and simplistic nail art that was created throughout Fashion Week. Two-toned nails are a great way to accent one’s wardrobe with bright pops of color. Although two-toned nail colors are not a novelty in the world of nail fashion, they allow for unending creativity and fun. Mix up your client’s manicure for twice the impact! For the Honor Fashion Show I created a “Peek-A-Boo” twotoned nail using a chic, vivacious red. It was applied over the entire nail and offset with a bubble gum electric pink.

TO CREATE THE LOOK: 1. Shape the nails into a short, medium length oval. 2. Prep with cuticle remover. 3. Nourish with cuticle oil and cleanse with nail primer. 4. Apply a layer of base coat before the nail lacquer. 5. Apply two coats of vivacious red.

6. Apply a bubble gum electric pink on top, not quite at the base of the cu ticle (allowing for the red to show), so that a sliver of the right side of the nails reveals the red lacquer. 7. Apply a top coat to seal the nail polish, prevent any chipping and add high shine. 8. Massage cuticles and hands and hydrate with hand cream.

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image | fall nail trends

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THE METALLIC NAIL At the Badgley Mischka Show, I created cuticle crescents using a metallic shade for fall, and accentuated the luxurious chrome color with a half moon of dazzling yellow glitter. This was one of my very favorite looks—I love a mix of glitter and glam, and your clients will too. It has just the right amount of sparkles to brighten up the cold and dull days ahead, and it reminds us of the bright sunny days with a color that also symbolizes luxury. This is a look that will wow on special occasions, but it is also a chic and cool everyday wear.

7. Create a half moon at the cuticle

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Experiment on your clients with two of my favorite nail trends for the fall. Your clients are sure to stand out with these designs and come back to you for more!

TO CREATE THE LOOK: 1. Shape nails into a long almond tip. 2. Prep with cuticle remover. 3. Hydrate with cuticle oil. 4. Cleanse with nail primer. 5. Apply one coat of base coat

prior to nail lacquer.

6. Apply two coats of a luxurious

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Deborah Lippmann is a fashion and celebrity manicurist, and founder of the Deborah Lippmann brand. Lippmann has collaborated with A-list celebrities in the fashion and entertainment world to create signature nail shades.

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Get the treatment journey right so your clients always come back At DermaQuest, we create success. We have devised a custom regimen that blends powerful professional and home care results with consultation and sales techniques. By establishing successful treatment journey, you’ll enjoy a level of customer loyalty that sees your clients returning time and again. If you’re ambitious and want to become a professional partner, our expertise will get you there. Call 800.213.3100 to start your journey now.

info@dermaquestinc.com | www.dermaquestinc.com September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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PICTURE

PERFECT The word alone brings images of flawless models to mind. Its name glides on the tongue and seemingly floats weightlessly, just like the light makeup falls on the skin—airbrush. More and more people seek airbrush makeup applications, which continue to gain popularity among celebrities, brides, and salon and spa clients. With all the hype about airbrushing—perhaps the most sanitary of all makeup applications since it is misted onto the skin directly—it is well worth adding to your tools of the trade, as it can increase revenues and vamp up your menu. Airbrush makeup applications are a bit pricier than “regular” makeup, and artists charge an average of 25% more—many salons and spas schedule an average of 1 hr for the application. Clients should be advised to schedule an airbrush makeup test to see its look and wear on their skin before doing it for an important event (pique the interest of your clients with some before and after shots, and by letting them

know of all you can achieve with the wonder mist: blush, eye-shadow, contouring and highlights, and even flawless Halloween makeup). A 2 day workshop or an average of 14 to 20 hr will teach you how to use the airbrush, apply the makeup, cover up imperfections, tattoos and more (most classes will cover basic applications, equipment knowledge, color matching, and client etiquette). Then you just have to practice, practice, practice! Not only can you add airbrush makeup to the list, but airbrush tanning and airbrush oxygen facials as well, once you have the proper equipment and skills. While all our clients dream of having that glamorous, immaculate and picture perfect look that airbrush makeup has come to be associated with, airbrushing works best with good skin, as it is a very thin product that cannot be applied heavily (it does not necessarily look great on overly textured skin, such as skin with blemishes or wrinkles), yet it is that very light application that gives it a natural, glowy finish.

Page 120 • LNEONLINE.com LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Pamela Hackeman

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LNEONLINE.com • Page 121

image | picture perfect

HERE IS A RUNDOWN OF WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT AIRBRUSH MAKEUP: Equipment you will need ● Airbrush ● Compressor ● Hose with connector ● Airbrush cleaning station ● Airbrush cleaning brushes ● Water and/or alcohol, 244 fluid (for silicon makeup)

● Product to be airbrushed

Types of airbrushes Single action for larger “canvases” (tanning)— when lever/trigger is depressed, both air and “paint” come out simultaneously. Dual action for smaller “canvases” and detail work (makeup/oxygen—depress lever down for air, and pull back to mix “paint” with air).

PAINTING THE CANVAS You will need to put concealer on first, especially under the eyes, since spraying in this area will not work well. Once you have the color and consistency that you want, you should test it on your hand first. I usually hold my other hand over the model’s ear and pull back on the trigger away from their face and keep it moving across the cheek and jaw line. I use overlapping circles so as not to leave streaks. The PSI on the compressor should be between 8 and 10 on the face and 4 to 6 around the eyes. I prefer a dual action airbrush because it is more versatile, and you have more control over the flow of product coming out, thus a more precise application. The tendency is to make too many passes or be too aggressive with the amount of flow. Less is more could not be truer in this case.

Types of compressors Cosmetic (available at cosmetic stores or online). Industrial (available at large hardware stores). A good rule of thumb when it comes to pounds per square inch (PSI, which measures pressure) with airbrush makeup is that the larger the canvas, the higher the PSI.

AIRBRUSH MAKEUP Here are some steps to help you: ● Connect hose to airbrush. ● Connect hose to compressor. ● Adjust PSI to 8-10 for the face; 4-6 for the eyes; 8-15 for the body.

● Fill color/fluid cup halfway with liquid. ● Make sure the consistency is no thicker than milk. ● Put cap on so it does not spill. ● Press trigger down for air (in dual action) and for both air and liquid (for single action). ● Always start your aim away from face or body, then move onto face and body keeping trigger pressed down. ● Pull back trigger (on dual action) to release fluid to mix with air. ● Always ease on and ease off when pulling back triggers to avoid splatters. ● Use overlapping circles as you apply product, keeping the airbrush moving to avoid wet spots that may drip. ● Allow time for layers to dry.

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photos: Shutterstock.com

For airbrush makeup, you can use any liquid foundation that is diluted until it has the consistency of milk. Airbrush makeup is packaged for convenience and may need to be diluted as well. For water-based makeup, add water to dilute. For silicone-based makeup (longer wearing) and oil-based makeup, add 244 fluid (a silicone fluid) or plain alcohol. Water-based makeup tends to become darker or orange when it dries and leaves more of a matte finish. Silicone-based makeup may wear longer, but it will tend to be shiny looking unless you add alcohol to dilute it. You may dilute in a separate cup or in the fluid cup of the airbrush. You can mix it in the airbrush by filling the cup only halfway, and add a few drops of diluting fluid as needed. By pulling back on the lever/trigger gently with one hand and holding the tip closed with the other, you mix colors and diluting agents effectively, which is called “back bubbling.”

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Say & Spa you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #123 on reader service card

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POST PAINTING The hardest part of using an airbrush is cleaning it effectively so it does not clog (which can make the makeup splatter uncontrollably or not come out at all).

Flush airbrush immediately after use with appropriate diluting fluid to avoid clogs inside any part of the airbrush.

Test airbrush by spraying plain water or alcohol to see if it is clean.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

● Never blow air pressure directly into eyes, nose, ears or mouth.

● Make sure you ask your client to hold their breath and keep their mouth closed when working near their nose. ● If you are using an air supply with a canister tank, make sure to empty the compressor of excess air since the contents are under pressure and could cause an explosion if dropped. ● Make sure you use good ventilation and are cautious about breathing in fumes since a fine vapor is created. n

Take airbrush apart and clean each part, especially the nozzle, with small brushes. If necessary soak them in water or alcohol first.

Reassemble airbrush and retest with water or alcohol to see if it is clean and operating correctly.

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS Clean—the nozzle of an airbrush is extremely tiny and clogs very easily. It is a good idea to take apart and clean regularly with brushes and reassemble. Airtight—if there is any problem with it not working, usually there is a part that needs the slightest tightening. Take it apart and tighten each part again. Delicate use—when taking the nozzle off (if it is a screw type mount), make sure to twist counterclockwise so as not to break it off inside the chamber.

Pamela Hackeman shares how to “Add New Services and Income to Your Menu with Basic Airbrushing” at the Image Seminar at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, CA on September 8. Visit LNEonline.com for more information.

Pamela Hackeman is the creator and president of Behind The Seen Organic Face & Body Care, a product line for organic skin care and makeup. She has more than 13 years of experience teaching makeup at Make Up Designory in Burbank, CA. She has also conducted seminars in skin care and makeup, both in the United States and abroad.

Page 124 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

Coming out this month is Cryolan’s new HD Cream Liner, a color intense eye liner for flawless eye lining, says the company and official sponsor of Face Off. Easy to apply and long lasting, Cream Liner does not drip and is water resistent. Available in 15 new shades. us.kryolan.com 800.579.6526

SAFE AND CONVENIENT Gerda Spillmann introduces its new Bio-Blends Palettes, customizable and a practical approach for makeup artists who use Bio-Fond Foundation in their kits, says the company. The Bio-Blends Palettes are sleek and compact, and each palette fits six colors. gsskincare.com 800.282.3223

LONG LASTING COLORS

AUTUMN POUTS OFRA Cosmetics introduces Lipstick Royal Orchid (pictured) and Lipstick Sunset Shimmer. Enriched with antioxidants, vitamin E and natural sunscreen filters, the lipsticks provide unmatched moisture to prevent chapped lips and keep the color from bleeding, says the company. Get your clients’ pouts ready for fall! ofracosmetics.com 877.652.9888 September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

NovaLash’s latest 24 Hour Cream Shadows are semi-permanent, cream based extended wear eye shadow formulas that will not crease or smudge for more than 24 hr, says the company. The semi-permanent shadows are a luxurious complement to NovaLash’s eyelash extension line. The eye shadows come in coordinating sets of three shadows that come with a semipermanent eyeliner pencil. novalash.com 886.430.1261

IMAGENEWS

VIBRANT HUES

NAILS, MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS

LNEONLINE.com • Page 125

WEST | CENTRAL | EAST REGIONAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES

CALENDAR OF EVENTS LEARN ON LOCATION

West

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 14 SEPTEMBER 7 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. 480.543.1121 PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Cerritos, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 8 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Cerritos, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Walnut Creet, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Treating Rosacea with Stimulate Lymph Flow Technique, Hands-on Enzyme by Rhonda Allison. Santa Ana, CA. 866.313.7546.

SEPTEMBER 22 SEPTEMBER 15 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. SEPTEMBER 21 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Walnut Creek, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Product Knowledge by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.

Page 126 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

West Central East International

SEPTEMBER 28 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Santa Monica, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 29 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Santa Monica, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Central SEPTEMBER 8 PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. (True University) 877.PCA.SKIN. SEPTEMBER 9 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. (True University) 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 14 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 21 PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

EPTEMBER 7SEPTEMBER 22 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 28 PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Denver, CO. 877.PCA.SKIN. SEPTEMBER 29 cbi Seminar by cbi Laboratories. Fort Worth, TX. 800.822.7546. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Denver, CO. 877.PCA.SKIN.

LNEONLINE.com • Page 127

calendar|central|east|online

CALENDAR OF EVENTS East SEPTEMBER 7 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Ann Arbor, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 14 PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN. SEPTEMBER 15 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 21 PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

SEPTEMBER 22 to 27 Permanent Makeup 6 Day Training Course by Beau Institute. Mount Laurel, NJ. 856.727.1411.

An In-Depth Look at Melasma by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

SEPTEMBER 28 PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Parsippany, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN. SEPTEMBER 29 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Parsippany, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

ONLINE EDUCATION

Customizing Daily Care Regimens by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Diminishing Deep Wrinkling by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Evening PostInflammatory Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. hydropeptide.com/webinars

Addressing Adolescent Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

ONGOING

Page 128 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • September 2014

calendar|online

Investigating Impaired Barrier Function by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Shedding Light on UV-induced Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Simple Steps to a Booming Business by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Targeting Adult Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

The Daily Care Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

NaturaLash Level 1 Online Certification Class by NaturaLash. Online Course. 800.644.1297. naturalash.com/240.html

The Professional Product Overview by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Product Formulations as a Whole by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Treating Acne in Skin of Color by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities Scleroderma by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014 September 7-8 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014 October 19-20 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2015 March 1-2 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2015 April 26-27 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015 September 20-21 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2015 October 25-26 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

LNEONLINE.com • Page 129

advertisers’ index

Page Number

Reader Service No.

113............. Aesthetic Ambassadors........................................... aestheticamb.com........................................................... 345 97............... Athena.................................................................... athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 112............. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 105............. Beauty Beauty International.................................... beautybeautygroup.com................................................. 273 117............. Bella Lash................................................................ bellalash.com.................................................................. 328 115............. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 94............... Bellaire Industry LLC............................................... bellaireindustry.com......................................................... 189 38............... Bio France Lab........................................................ biofrancelab.com........................................................... 331 47............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................ 140 92............... Biomani................................................................... biomaniskincare.com..................................................... 276 103............. Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................ 335 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 109............. Christina.................................................................. christina-usa.com........................................................... 107 33............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... circadia.com................................................................... 101 132............. Dermapen............................................................... dermapenworld.com...................................................... 136 15............... DermAware............................................................. dermaware.com............................................................. 256 119............. DermaQuest........................................................... dermaquestinc.com....................................................... 261 101............. Dr. Grandel.............................................................. grandel.com................................................................... 109 49............... Dr. Jeff..................................................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... .248 95............... Dr. Schrammek........................................................ drschrammek.us............................................................. 166 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 72................Enspri...................................................................... enspriskincare.com.......................................................... 318 131............. Equipro................................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 81............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 11............... GrandeLASH-MD.................................................... grandewholesale.com...................................................... 286 24............... Hale Cosmeceuticals......................................................halecosmeceuticals.com................................................ 133 93............... Harmonial.......................................................................harmonial.net................................................................. 281 71............... HydraFacial............................................................. hydrafacial.com............................................................... 201 9................. HydroPeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 21............... ilike.......................................................................... szepelet.com................................................................... 274 82-83......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa.......... philadelphia.skincareshows.com...................................... ..... 88............... Jenetiqa.................................................................. jenetiqa.com................................................................... 270 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................ladyburd.com................................................................. 119 123............. Le Mieux.......................................................................lemieuxcosmetics.com................................................... 294 77............... Lira.................................................................................liraclinical.com................................................................ .203 41............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................lucrece.com.................................................................... .263 46............... M.A.D Skincare.............................................................mad-skincare.com.......................................................... .297 73............... Nature Pure..................................................................naturepure.com.............................................................. .316 87............... Neurotris.......................................................................neurotris.com................................................................. .122 79............... Osmosis........................................................................osmosisskincare.com...................................................... .111 23............... PCA Skin.......................................................................pcaskin.com................................................................... 110 89............... PFB Vanish.....................................................................PFBVanish.com............................................................... 229 30............... postQuam......................................................................postquam.com............................................................... 177 118............. Professional Program Insurance Brokers........................madispa-ins.com............................................................ 208 107............. Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 108............. Rena Levi........................................................................renaleviskincare.com...................................................... 105 29............... Revitalash......................................................................revitalash.com................................................................ 346 19............... Rhonda Allison.......................................................... rhondaallison.com.......................................................... 190 8................. Rubber Ducky Sunscreen...............................................rubberduckysunscreen.com............................................ 317 96............... Saian........................................................................ saian.net......................................................................... 165 39............... Satin Smooth............................................................ satinsmooth.com............................................................ 304 28............... Select Spa Source..................................................... selectspa.com................................................................ 253 78............... Sesha Skin Therapy................................................... seshaskin.com................................................................ 271 17............... Shira Esthetics......................................................... shiraesthetics.com.......................................................... 249 102............. Silc Skin................................................................... silcskin.com.................................................................... 185 25............... Silhouet-Tone.......................................................... silhouettone.us............................................................... 192 45............... Skin Care Consultants............................................. lamskin.com................................................................... 230 37............... TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................ 305 5................. UltraLuxe................................................................. ultraluxeskincare.com..................................................... 116 31............... Vital Assist Skin Care............................................... vitalassist.com................................................................ 237

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242

Fractional Rejuvenation for a Fraction of the Cost without the pain, heat, cost and downtime of fractional lasers.

Your clients and potential customers are asking for Dermapen Treatments more than all other brands put together... make sure you have what they want. Toll free: (844)4-Dermapen I (844)433 7627 info@dermapenworld.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #136 on reader service card