Blast that Fuzz! - LNE & Spa October 2014

blast that

FUZZ! Spa Treatments For Vellus Hair Removal

by Alice Soares

Page 120 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2014

photos: Shutterstock.com

Downy, peach fuzz, duvet

… these terms are often used to refer to the tiny hairs growing on undesirable areas of a woman’s face, including the cheeks, chin and around the lips. Why aren’t we hearing these terms every day in the spa industry? It could very well be that women are so embarrassed by this hair that very few of them are actually seeking our help!

The short, fine hair that develops on most of the body beginning in childhood is called vellus hair. While it grows from a shallow depth, facial vellus hair can be very long and thick, while at the same time light in color. In addition to being unattractive on its own, vellus hair also absorbs dirt, oil, environmental toxins and excess product, making its removal even more worthwhile for the sake of a clean, glowing complexion.

Offering a solution to this fuzzy problem can make your spa a go-to haven for the many women among your clientele who are hesitant to seek help. Spas and medical spas can offer the following services to eliminate vellus hair.

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• WAXING One of the oldest and most effective hair removal procedures, waxing pulls hair out at the root. This weakens the hair so it grows back finer, lighter and less bushy.

Apply hard, hot wax for this hypersensitive area. Look for wax that envelops the hair and doesn’t stick to the skin, as it is unpleasant for clients if you have to pick at the skin. A wax with vasodilating properties can deliver pain free sessions. Apply a non-oily post-depilatory product to the waxed area immediately after to relieve the irritation.

Contraindications: • Thin, fragile skin • Steroid medication

• Product allergies

Average Pricing: • Chin or lip wax: $10-$12 • Cheek: $12-$15

• SUGARING Sugaring is practiced in much the same way as traditional waxing for removing unwanted hair; however the natural makeup of sugaring paste (sugar, lemon juice, water and salt) provides a lower likelihood of allergic reactions or sensitivities.

Sugaring can remove hair as short as an eighth of an inch. The hair is removed in the direction of growth in sugaring, eliminating breakage and ingrown hairs. Over time, regularly sugared areas experience a significant reduction in the amount of hair growth. Since sugaring paste doesn’t contain any irritation causing chemical preservatives, it’s a good option for clients with skin sensitivities.

Contraindications: • Cold sores • Herpes • Moles • Topical retinol products • Sunburns • Recent facial peels or microdermabrasion treatments

Average pricing: • Skin above upper lip: $10-$25 • Sides of face (sideburns): $10-$18 • Chin: $10-$25

• INTENSE PULSED LIGHT

(IPL) THERAPY

The newest generation of Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) systems produce a precise beam of light energy, which transmits through the skin to selectively target pigment in the hair follicles. When this light is absorbed by the pigment in the follicle, it coverts to heat, which in turn causes thermal damage to the follicle and permanently destroys the hair.

The heat also disables the cells responsible for new hair growth. Treatment of a small area may only last a few minutes. Typically, a 20 percent reduction will be noticed in the initial treatment, and a reduction as high as 95 percent can occur after four to six treatments. The reduction following the treatment series is permanent.

Contraindications: • Pregnancy • Hormone Replacement Therapy • Chemotherapy • Photo-sensitive drugs • Suntanned skin

Typical pricing per single treatment (six are recommended): • Full face: $100-$150 • Sides of face: $50-$60 • Chin: $40-$60 • Upper lip: $30-$50

Page 122 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2014

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• LASER THERAPY

Standard Pricing:

Like IPL treatments, the end result of laser hair removal is permanent hair growth reduction. It involves beaming highly concentrated light into hair follicles, targeting the hair’s roots. The pigment in the follicles absorbs the light, which destroys the hair.

Each pulse of the laser takes a fraction of a second and can treat many hairs at the same time. Small areas such as the upper lip can be treated in less than a minute. Ninety percent of patients have permanent hair loss after an average of three to five laser sessions. Single treatments are not likely to be effective; a series of approximately five treatments are generally necessary.

$75-$150

Contraindications: • Recent waxing or electrolysis treatment • Naturally darker complexions (Fiztpatrick scale 4, 5 or 6, must be assessed on a case by case basis)

Typical pricing per single session (about five sessions are recommended): • Lip and chin area, single treatment: $200-$400 • Lip and chin, series of five treatments: $1,000-$2,000 (depending on the amount of hair)

• THREADING Threading hair is an ancient method commonly practiced in Eastern countries, like Egypt and India, but is becoming very popular here in the West. It can be a good option for those who are taking medications that contraindicate waxing or sugaring. Threading removes the entire hair follicle.

A cotton thread is pulled along unwanted hair in a twisting motion to trap hair and lift it right out of the follicle. Only one sixteenth of an inch of hair is necessary to perform threading. It only takes several minutes, and the results last up to six weeks. Over time, frequent threading can cause the hair follicle to become damaged, which stops hair growth.

Contraindications: • None

Average Pricing: • Upper or lower lip, $6-$20 • Chin, $6-$15 • Sideburns, $10-$30 • Full face, $35-$60

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Dermaplaning is a simple procedure for removing vellus hair as well as providing a deep exfoliation for skin, brightening and smoothing the complexion. The provider uses a scalpel and a delicate touch to simply abrade the skin’s surface using light, feathering strokes. This procedure takes about 30 minutes.

There is no downtime for the client, and it can be done as often as every two weeks. Since dermaplaning doesn’t remove hair by the root, it may reappear as early as three days after treatment.

The vellus hair grows back at the same rate and texture as it did before the dermaplaning treatment. This treatment is a good option for individuals who are pregnant or nursing and are not allowed to use peeling agents on their skin.

Many non-medical spas don’t offer dermaplaning, as it is beyond the scope of estheticians’ practice in many states. It is more often provided in medical spas and doctors’ offices.

image | blast that fuzz!

• ELECTROLYSIS The FDA and American Medical Association recognize electrolysis as a permanent method of hair removal. It is performed by technicians with Certified Professional Electrologist (CPE) credentials.

In an electrolysis treatment, the electrologist inserts a small needle into the hair follicle, allowing a shot of electricity to reach the root of the hair, preventing the follicle from any more hair growth. Each hair must be targeted individually in an electrolysis treatment. One treatment lasts between 15 minutes and one hour, and the process can take anywhere from 15 to 30 sessions to complete. The total time before permanent hair removal is achieved depends on the hair thickness.

Contraindications: • Pacemakers • Herpes

• Bacterial skin infections

Standard Pricing: • Between $35 and $52 for a half-hour treatment

By offering vellus hair removal services, you can establish mutually beneficial relationships with many new clients—as well as current ones who may have been too embarrassed to request services for their facial fuzz up until now.

No matter what type of services you offer to take care of this self-esteem busting condition, do your clients a favor by creating approachable, subtle names that they won’t feel ashamed to ask for. Be THE spa your clients can count on to experience the difference of sensational, smooth, fuzz free skin that glows! n

Alice Soares, a licensed esthetician since 1980, has more than 25 years of experience in cosmetics and retail. She has extensive expertise in esthetic training, and is now a trainer in advanced depilatory solutions at Épillyss.

You may contact her at 800.363.1929 or via email at alice.soares@esfspa.com.

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Page 124 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2014