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WINTER SKIN CARE For Every Skin Type and Condition By Michelle Goldsmith Changing weather calls for a shift to different ingredients and treatments in order to help our clients maintain their healthy skin and continue to reach their skin care goals. Regardless of the weather, the delicate balance of the skin must stay intact. Understanding how typical winter weather affects the skin helps clinicians educate clients on how to keep their skin healthy and beautiful throughout the year.
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skin | winter skin care
The Physiology The epidermis and dermis are dependent on one another to sustain overall healthy skin function. Among other components, the epidermis is composed of about 50 percent ceramides, 25 percent cholesterol and 10 percent free fatty acids. Should this balance be disturbed, the epidermis becoming dry or dehydrated, an abnormal increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) can result. This disruption can lead to a cascade of events that could increase inflammation. If the epidermis is overexposed to UV rays, an increase in the production of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes could arise. That could lead to a breakdown of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis, creating wrinkling, laxity and increased signs of visible aging of the epidermis. Even though the temperatures are cooler and there isn’t as much sunshine in the winter, daily use of a broad spectrum sun protection product is necessary as many UV rays remain constant throughout the year, and the reflection off of the snow and through clouds poses a threat to skin.
Winter Sun Protection A common misconception is that more protection from UV exposure is needed in the summer than in the winter. Although the strength of UVB rays is slightly less in the winter months, UVA rays stay constant throughout the year. Professionals should be proficient in explaining the importance of daily use of a broad spectrum sunscreen product to clients, as well as the key features to look for in protective products. A common misconception is in regard to a product’s SPF value. It’s important that clients understand that no sunscreen technology can provide 100 percent protection. Higher SPF typically only provides an incrementally higher percentage of protection. In fact, an SPF of 15 provides about 93 percent protection while an SPF of 30 provides 97 percent protection. Additional protection can be provided by sunscreen formulations that contain antioxidants or with the use of an antioxidant product prior to sunscreen application. Antioxidants that are exceptional at quenching UV-induced free radicals include L-ascorbic acid, tocopherol, caffeine and milk thistle-derived silybin. Advise your clients to look for sunscreens with the Skin Cancer Foundation seal of recommendation.
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Humectants Humectants are hydrophilic, meaning they attract moisture, and are used topically to draw water from either the dermis to the epidermis, or in some humid climates, from the atmosphere to the epidermis. Regardless, they play an important role in epidermal moisture retention. We can think of humectants as magnets that are attracting or pulling water toward the epidermis from the dermal layers. This is important, as very little water is able to pass through the surface of the epidermis from the outside. Some of the more commonly used humectant ingredients also offer other benefits in addition to their humectant qualities: • Hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate, the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, can hold 1,000 times its weight in water, in addition to retaining water in the skin and providing exceptional lubricating qualities. • Sodium PCA is present in human skin, and can attract and hold 250 times its weight in water, making it an important ingredient for healthy skin function.
• Urea and glycerin are not only humectants, but they also provide hydration to both the surface of the skin and directly to the skin cells. Both of these ingredients are able to pass through the aquaporins (water channels) within the skin cells. • Lactic acid is a multi-functional ingredient that possesses many benefits for all skin types and is present in a variety of product formulations, such as hydrators, cleansers and even chemical peels. In addition to being an alpha hydroxy acid and a hydrophilic ingredient that breaks down the desmosomes to allow for easier exfoliation, it is also a humectant. Lactic acid is anti-bacterial, inhibits tyrosinase (an enzyme that is triggered during the melanogenesis process and is responsible for producing pigment), and is biocompatible with the skin and the body.
Occlusives Occlusive ingredients can be a little trickier, as some are less expensive and used in a lot of products, such as petrolatum, mineral oil and lanolin. While these are indeed occlusive, they don’t do much for the skin other than sit on the surface. In addition, they are not cosmetically elegant, and many are known sensitizing ingredients. Oftentimes, people think that occlusives will make their skin break out, especially oily and acneic clients. Again, it’s up to the skin care professional to discuss the best types of occlusive ingredients for each client to use, based on their skin type or condition.
Think of occlusives as locks, whose job it is to prevent the moisture attracted to the skin by the humectants from evaporating away. In other words, they “lock” in that attained moisture and keep it in the skin. There are great occlusive ingredients that offer other ancillary benefits in addition to their occlusive properties, just like humectants: • Niacinamide is a particularly versatile occlusive, especially for the breakout-prone patient. When this ingredient is applied topically, it has been shown to reduce both acne breakouts as well as rosacea-like symptoms. It also increases the crucial fatty acid and ceramide levels within the skin to help maintain hydration and reduce TEWL. Additional studies have shown that niacinamide also maintains even better hydration levels than the commonly used petrolatum. • Shea butter helps keep the skin soft and maintain moisture without a greasy feeling. In addition, it is high in triglycerides, vitamins E and A, as well as the omega-6 essential fatty acid (EFA) gamma linolenic acid (GLA). • Zinc oxide is a perfect type of occlusive, commonly used in sunscreen products. By using this ingredient you are not only providing the skin with occlusive benefits, you are also providing broad spectrum UV protection, and inflammation and melanogenesis inhibition. Look for serums that are formulated with both humectant and occlusive ingredients. These are great additions to any skin care reg-
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skin | winter skin care
skin | winter skin care imen for any skin type, because you can recommend using them in conjunction with a client’s current nighttime hydrator or daytime SPF product to increase hydration during drier months. For the acne patient, these types of serums are ideal, as clients are more likely to apply a hydrating serum to their skin rather than a cream-based product.
Chemical peel blends that include exfoliating and hydrating ingredients, such as lactic acid, are ideal when an increase in hydration is necessary. Professional Treatment Options Most people don’t put the words “chemical peel” and “hydration” in the same sentence, but with the advancement of chemical peel formulations over the last several decades, these treatments can add an increased level of hydration to the skin. Peels are also important as they remove the impacted stratum corneum that can inhibit the penetration of topically applied hydrating ingredients. Chemical peel blends that include exfoliating and hydrating ingredients, such as lactic acid, are ideal when an increase in hydration is necessary. Also, many peels include other hydrating components in their blended formulations. Chasteberry extract, a phytohormone, is a plant extract that has characteristics that imitate the hormone progesterone. When topically applied, this ingredient provides much needed hydration and helps plump the skin. Soy isoflavones are phytohormones that make a great source of the antioxidant genistein, which helps to boost collagen and improve the appearance and con-
dition of aging skin. Some manufacturers provide professional treatments that combine soy isoflavones, chasteberry extract and retinol in one formulation to increase moisture content in the dry or mature patient, while also providing a unique combination of collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, MMP properties, which are especially necessary in the winter. Masks are also an excellent way to provide much needed moisture to the skin. They are also quite versatile, as they can be applied before most chemical peel treatments (be sure to check with the manufacturer of your specific professional treatment line for recommended protocols) or they may be used alone. Masks formulated with oat milk, for example, are a great option, as it’s not only humectant, but also provides antioxidant protection and is high in EFAs. Some oat milk masks are formulated with additional hydrating ingredients such as panthenol, glycerin and sodium hyaluronate. These masks are excellent for all skin conditions, including dry or dehydrated acne, rosacea and aging skin.
Maintaining Balance Maintaining healthy skin year-round will always require updating and customizing both daily care and professional treatments for all of our clients, regardless of skin type, condition or Fitzpatrick. We must also learn which ingredients and products should be added or removed depending on the season. Once we understand the mechanism of action of ingredients best suited to maintain a perfect balance within the skin, as well as the additional benefits many of them offer, we will be able to help our clients maintain healthy, hydrated and glowing skin— even when the seasons change. n
Michelle
Goldsmith, a licensed esthetician, joined PCA SKIN® in 2003. She has excelled as a physician’s consultant, editorial liaison and educator, conducting chemical peel trainings for students and licensed professionals. Goldsmith speaks at medical and esthetic meetings throughout the country. She mentors and trains physicians, skin care clinicians and students around the world.
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