LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals December 2014
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december 2014
V olume 29
Numb e r 12
CONTENTS ORGANIC & WELLNESS
SKIN Peptides for Every Decade Incorporating an A+ Vitamin and Its Derivatives Skin pH Skin News
10 18 28 32
Eastern Beauty: The Elusive Maral Root Exposed 94 Oh Honey! 96 Organic & Wellness News 101
Oh Honey! page 96
Great Steam Rising page 42
SPA Spa News
Spa of the Month: SenSpa 36 Great Steam Rising 42 Don’t Get Burned! 50 58
Looking Sharp: page 104
IMAGE DETOX GUIDE Detox 101 Cleanse and Restore with Detox Body Wraps 61 About Face Detox Facials 62 Detox Waterworks 64 Detoxing the Russian Way 66 Ayurvedic Detox 67 Spa Rehab 68 Detox Quickly 70 Flush That Tox! Photo Feature 72
60
DETOX GUIDE As we enter the holiday season when overindulgence is the norm, prepping for detox is a MUST! Want to ADD DETOX to your menu or REVAMP EXISTING OFFERINGS, LNE & Spa Detox Guide is your go to resource...
Detox Guide page 59
Let’s Talk Makeup 102 Looking Sharp 104 Tools of the Trade 112 Natural Looking Permanent Makeup 120 Image News 127
EXTRAS From the Editor Recap: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia Calendar of Events 128 Advertiser Index 130
6 24
BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Jeannine Bourque 78 Marketing Your Spa Through Giving 80 21 Days to Habit Building 86 Business News 92
Cover Courtesy of GUERLAIN
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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2014 has been an amazing year!
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa has undergone a major renovation in the last 12 months, bringing you an eye-catching new layout, captivating content and an abundance of fresh features! In an effort to be your most valuable industry partner, we have added the new Let’s Talk Makeup feature, a Q & A with a spa leader on how they have implemented their makeup services— from promotional strategies, staff training, selecting a product line and so much more! For the first installment of this exciting new monthly feature, we interview Kory Keith, spa director of the Ritz-Carlton in Los Angeles, Calif., on page 102. In the spirit of the New Year and the popular seasonal emphasis on cleansing and starting fresh, our special guide this month tackles the topic of detoxification, starting on page 59. This trending subject is so broad in scale that the all-encompassing guide features EIGHT articles on unique concepts such as spa hangover cures, Pancha Karma and platza treatments, to name just a few. If you want to offer detox services that truly make your spa stand out this New Year’s season, our Detox Guide is your go-to source! And make sure your shelves are stocked and ready to meet the demands of your detox-seeking clients with the help of our special photo feature, Flush That Tox! on page 72, showcasing a plethora of items to help your clients cleanse inside and out. Check out these features and many other compelling articles in this final issue of 2014, and stay tuned for another year of innovative, career boosting insight on the pages of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa in 2015! On behalf of all of us here at LNE & Spa, I wish you a beautiful holiday season and an incredible New Year! n
—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com REV080414
Page 6 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato
C ontr ibutors Rhonda Allison
Ben Johnson, M.D.
Shawn Towne
Marie Beauchemin
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Anna G. Wilhem
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Page 8 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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PEPTIDES FOR EVERY DECADE ADDRESSING UNIQUE AGE CONCERNS BY APRIL ZANGL
for their clients. They know that understanding their clients’ specific skin care concerns will help them to form-fit a treatment and home care regimen that delivers the desired end result. This solution-based approach provides the best customer service while building better client loyalty and referrals. Peptides are multifunctional, results-driven ingredients that address a vast array of concerns. These amino acid sequences control and direct all aspects of cellular function and facilitate intercellular communication. Within skin care, peptides have been shown to treat multiple concerns—from aging to acne to rosacea—and there is a growing interest in peptides in therapeutics.
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THE BEST ESTHETICIANS are focused on achieving the best results
skin | peptides for every decade
Back in the 1970s, the average frequency of peptides entering clinical trials was just over one per year. Ten and 20 years later, the number grew to five to 10 per year respectively, and now it’s estimated that 500 to 600 peptides are in pre-clinical development for therapeutics. Peptide therapeutics are maturing and demonstrating potential for addressing a growing range of medical challenges, and there’s no better ingredient for estheticians in treating their clients’ skin care concerns. It’s not unrealistic to suggest an anti-aging regimen to a customer very early on. People are constantly exposed to different aggressors and free radicals that damage their skin, but the skin of a 30-year-old will have a different anti-aging focus than the skin of a 50-year-old. Here’s a review of those concerns and a few of the most targeted peptides available to meet their needs.
CONCERNS OF THE 20s PREVENTION/DELAY OF ACNE & AGING During our 20s, skin is plump and youthful; however, it’s during this time that free radicals begin doing damage underneath the surface. With constant sun exposure and lifestyles that may not be focused on wellness, the premature aging process begins. Also, acne may still linger from teenage years, arise periodically with the menstrual cycle or simply be present in adulthood for no obvious reason.
CONCERNS OF THE 30s UNEVEN TONE & CROW’S FEET Once we enter our 30s, environmental and free radical damage starts to appear in the form of dull, lackluster, lifeless skin. Skin regeneration and cell turnover begins to decline, leading to a dull complexion and uneven skin tone. The use of harsh ingredients starts to take its toll on skin.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 30s: • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), Acetyl Hexapeptide-30 (Inyline), Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP 8), Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate (Syn-Ake), Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract (Myoxinol) and Pentapeptide-18 (Leuphasyl): A variety of relaxing peptides that work within the neuromuscular junction to relax repetitive muscle contractions in a variety of ways either pre or post-synapse. •
Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate (Perfection Peptide P3): An exfoliating peptide shown to gently increase skin cell turnover.
•
Pearl Peptide (Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein) and Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment (Kombucha): Radiance enhancing peptides that improve skin tone and clarity.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 20s: •
Azeloyl Bis-Peptide-10 (formerly Tetrapeptide-23) (ATP 23): An anti-glycation peptide shown to protect skin against reactive scavengers and increase antioxidant activity.
•
Glutathione: An antioxidant peptide shown to guard against free radicals and contribute to brighter skin.
•
•
Pentapeptide-28 (Chondricare IS): An energizing peptide shown to stimulate cell metabolism and shield mitochondria from DNA damage.
•
Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate (Peptide Q10): A CoQ10 activating peptide that enhances Coenzyme Q10, the skin cell’s energy generation that increases antioxidant protection.
Page 12 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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Oligopeptide-10 (Granactive Acne): A clearing peptide shown to cause a lethal imbalance within acne bacteria while neutralizing inflammation.
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skin | peptides for every decade
skin | peptides for every decade
CONCERNS OF THE 40s FINE LINES & HYPERPIGMENTATION Significant dullness, aging and dark spots become more apparent in our 40s. Photo-aging and dark spots are more prominent while elastin begins to decline, leading to the appearance of fine lines.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 40S: •
CONCERNS OF THE 50s DEEPER WRINKLES,DEHYDRATION & SAGGING In our 50s, the decrease of collagen and elastin impairs the structure and firmness of the skin. Other supportive protein structures within the skin such as laminin begin to decline, causing more pronounced sagging skin. The skin’s barrier is compromised, and this impacts moisture retention. The skin becomes dehydrated and wrinkles appear more pronounced.
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide (Peptiskin): A triple action peptide that works to boost multiple types of collagen, reduce collagen breakdown and inhibit collagen cross-linking.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 50S:
•
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 (Thymulen 4): A defensive peptide shown to fight deficiencies in the skin’s immune system, which reinforces the skin’s barrier and prevents water loss.
Myristoyl Tripeptide-31 (Dermapep A350): A retinoic-like peptide that works to reduce the appearance of fine lines while enhancing luminosity.
•
•
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-37 (Diffuporine): A hydration peptide that improves water transportation within the skin and restores barrier function.
• Tripeptide-1 and Tripeptide-10 Citrulline (Trylagen): Peptides that work in multiple ways to not only boost collagen, reduce collagen degradation and also control collagen fibril dimension and organization.
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-38 (Adifyline): A volumizing peptide that restores fatty tissue volume in specific areas of the facial contour for more facial fullness.
Oligopeptide-68 (B-White): A brightening peptide that regulates the actions that cause pigment.
•
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Syn-Coll): A volumizing peptide that works to activate natural growth factors to boost collagen and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
•
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine and Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate (SynTacks): A dual peptide that supports the Dermal Epidermal Junction and enhances multiple structural proteins that improve the skin’s integrity, communication and nourishment.
•
WITHIN SKIN CARE, PEPTIDES HAVE BEEN SHOWN TO TREAT MULTIPLE CONCERNS—FROM AGING TO ACNE TO ROSACEA—AND THERE IS A GROWING INTEREST IN PEPTIDES IN THERAPEUTICS.
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Whey Protein Lactus Proteinum (MPC Complex): A plumping peptide that nourishes and regenerates mature skin while stimulating wound healing.
•
Hexapeptide-10 (Serilesine): An anti-gravity peptide with a dual action of activating the fibroblasts and keratinocytes for increased strength within the Dermal Epidermal Junction.
•
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester (Idealift): A lifting peptide that has a triple action effect on stimulating elastin through enhanced cohesion, firmness and density.
lneonline.com • Page 15
skin | peptides for every decade
CONCERNS OF THE 60s REDNESS & SENSITIVITY Along with all the concerns of our 50s, in our 60s, thinning skin caused by a loss of various supportive proteins, reduced skin cell turnover, and a compromised barrier, can cause sensitivity and redness. It also causes dry skin to become even more visible.
PEPTIDE PRESCRIPTION FOR THE 60S: • Acetyl Tetrapeptide-33 (Telangyn): An anti-redness peptide shown to reduce facial redness and the inflammation within the skin. • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 (Neutrazen): A neutralizing peptide shown to prevent and reverse neurogenic inflammation, and calm the feelings associated with sensitivity.
April Zangl has been HydroPeptide’s CEO and co-formulator since 2004, and she works closely with HydroPeptide’s scientific advisory board to research new peptides and their benefits. Zangl is passionate about HydroPeptide’s mission to provide multifunctional products that deliver results without damaging the skin while creating a luxurious, upscale experience. April holds a bachelor of science degree in Health and Wellness Promotion from Brigham Young University.
Page 16 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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Peptides in skin care have evolved into solution-based ingredients that address concerns unique to each decade. With more than 60 different peptides demonstrating age-reversing effects, estheticians and other skin care professionals now have the ingredient knowledge to deliver customized solutions to different age groups, and with more precision than ever before. The evolution of peptides is paving the way for future advancements in topical anti-aging solutions. Science is just beginning to realize the full potential of peptides, and creating a new standard for results that can be achieved from the use of topically applied products.
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VITAMIN A IS FOUND IN TWO PRIMARY FORMS IN FOOD: RETINOL, THE FORM ABSORBED WHEN EATING ANIMAL FOOD SOURCES, AND CAROTENES, NAMELY BETA-CAROTENE.
INCORPORATING AN A+ VITAMIN AND ITS DERIVATIVES REJUVENATE YOUR CLIENTS’ SKIN PROGRAM BY RHONDA ALLISON
IN THE WORLD OF ESTHETICS, vitamin A is most often associated with retinol, yet this essential vitamin has several derivatives that play a significant role in not only skin health, but several functions of the body. From cellular regeneration to gene transcription, immune function, bone growth and antioxidant activity, vitamin A and its derivatives support healthy skin and our overall well-being. To fully unlock its potential and enhance the results of treatments and prescribed home-care regimens, skin care professionals will benefit from a deeper understanding of its origins, the types of derivatives available, and their uses.
lneonline.com • Page 19
skin | incorporating an a+ vitamin and its derivatives THE ORIGINS OF VITAMIN A Some reports link the discovery of vitamin A to research conducted in 1906 that found that compounds other than carbohydrates, proteins and fats were necessary to keep cattle healthy. They were able to isolate vitamin A from milk fat and deduce that it was essential to the cattle’s health. By 1919 researchers discovered a relationship between beta-carotene and vitamin A. Beta carotene is a precursor of vitamin A.
chemists. Then, based on the work of two researchers, Albert Kligman and Dr. James Fulton, the use of retinoic acid, a metabolite of vitamin A, started being used in skin care in the 1970s. Though the two researchers originally developed it for the treatment of acne, they realized how beneficial it was in reversing the signs of aging. It was Fulton, a valued mentor, who introduced me to my first retinol compound for skin rejuvenation in the mid-1980s.
stance. Encapsulation is used with retinol and retinaldehyde in cosmeceutical formulations to enhance delivery, stability and efficacy.
RETINOIDS Retinoids in general are vitamin A derivatives, which the skin converts to retinoic acid where it then becomes active. This encompasses several chemical compounds including retinol (alcohol form), retinal (aldehyde form), retinoic acid (acid form) and retinyl ester (ester form), which are collectively referred to as retinoids. Topical retinoids are beneficial in treating acne and aging skin. In skin rejuvenation, retinoids are used as reyouthing chemicals, where vitamin A is absorbed through the skin, increasing the rate of cell turnover and collagen production, creating a more youthful appearance.
RETINYL PALMITATE
SOURCES OF VITAMIN A
Retinyl palmitate is a combination of retinol and palmitic acid. More than 80 percent of the vitamin A typically found in skin is stored as retinyl palmitate. It’s a DNA regulator that provides gradual non-irritating skin resurfacing, reduces wrinkles and smoothes skin texture, improving the signs of aging. It also promotes collagen synthesis and pigment control.
It is plant derived, and the body converts this to retinol, an essential nutrient for health. Nearly 10 years later, clinical manifestations of vitamin A deficiencies were discovered and linked to certain skin diseases, which initiated the use of the vitamin to treat the skin issues. It wasn’t until 1947 that the first vitamin A was synthesized by two Dutch
VITAMIN A AND ITS DERIVATIVES In esthetics, there are several primary derivatives of vitamin A used, including retinol, retinyl palmitate or vitamin A palmitate and retinaldehyde. A process referred to as encapusulation has been used most successfully by inventors and researchers as a way to provide even more value to the sub-
Retinol has been used for decades in over-the-counter preparations and is widely used by estheticians, reaping profound benefits for most skin types. It’s one of the animal forms of vitamin A. It’s a diterpenoid and an alcohol that is converted to other forms of vitamin A, and not to be confused with retinal. It has a two-step conversion to retinoic acid when applied to the skin. Encapsulation is a proficient way to deliver retinol to the skin, and research has shown the elevated benefits of using this method for skin rejuvenation. Retinol stimulates the growth of new blood vessels, which improves circulation, increasing the oxygen supply
Page 20 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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RETINOL
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skin | incorporating an a+ vitamin and its derivatives to the skin and giving it a healthy glow. These properties make it an effective re-youth ingredient—targeting lines, wrinkles and pigmentation caused by UV damage and aging, as well as normalizing keratinization and increasing enzyme activity. Retinol also produces excellent results for rosacea and sensitive skin types.
RETINALDEHYDE
INCORPORATING VITAMIN A DERIVATIVES Vitamin A is found in two primary forms in food: retinol, the form absorbed when eating animal food sources, and
VITAMIN A OIL CAPSULES
SOME REPORTS LINK THE DISCOVERY OF VITAMIN A TO RESEARCH CONDUCTED IN 1906 THAT FOUND THAT COMPOUNDS OTHER THAN CARBOHYDRATES, PROTEINS AND FATS WERE NECESSARY TO KEEP CATTLE HEALTHY.
carotenes, namely beta-carotene. The latter requires an enzyme in the body to convert the compound to retinal. The vitamin can be found in many foods including meat sources, dandelion greens, carrots, broccoli, sweet potatoes, kale, spinach and pumpkin, to name a few. In cosmeceuticals, vitamin A can be found in a variety of strengths in creams, serums, acids and enzymes. When blended with other ingredients
such as skin-building organic stem cells, peptides or micro algae, vitamin A derivatives will produce a more gentle approach to the regenerating benefits while providing hydration and skin strengthening. Similarly, the exfoliation and regenerating properties of vitamin A derivatives are enhanced when combined with ingredients like salicylic acid, flower acids and lactic acid (L).
Page 22 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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Retinaldehyde is the newest and one of the most dynamic vitamin A derivatives to the industry. It’s similar to retinol in the sense that it’s a pro-drug that converts to retinoic acid. Where it differs, however, is that it’s less irritating to the skin and has one less step involved in the conversion to retinoic acid. The challenge with retinaldehyde has been stability, but through evolutionary encapsulation processes, this is a stable precursor to retinoic acid, and its pro-youth and clear skin benefits are boosted. It also produces the least amount of skin irritation of all vitamin A derivatives, making it a choice for all skin types. This characteristic often makes it easier to combine with other acne treatments such as AHAs, BHAs and benzoyl peroxides. Encapsulated retinaldehyde performs closest to retinoic acid in topical formulations where it provides powerful wrinkle reduction and prevention. It also has been shown to bring UVA damaged skin back to health, which has major implications on skin repair and re-youth programs. Plus it works to stimulate cellular cohesion and eliminate bacteria. Since encapsulated retinaldehyde is less irritating to the skin, it proves superior in treating acne. Some research has also shown that this ingredient contains antimicrobial characteristics, which enables it to provide support against P. acnes.
skin | incorporating an a+ vitamin and its derivatives
INTRODUCING RETINOIDS TO CLIENTS VITAMIN A
derivatives are unquestionably effective in reducing the signs of aging caused by sun damage. The rapid cell turnover, increase in oxygen supply and improved circulation that occurs with vitamin A derivatives results in smoother, stronger and glowing skin.
VITAMIN A IN ITS VARIOUS FORMS ALSO DOES THE FOLLOWING: STIMULATES THE GROWTH OF NEW TINY BLOOD VESSELS INHIBITS MELANOSOMES WITH MELANOCYTES DECREASES INFLAMMATION DIMINISHES MALIGNANT CELL GROWTH ENHANCES THE IMMUNE SYSTEM SPEEDS THE PRODUCTION OF COLLAGEN PROMOTES DRAINAGE OF EXISTING COMEDONES AND PREVENTS THE DEVELOPMENT OF MICROCOMEDONES
Clients are generally receptive to the idea of incorporating vitamin A derivatives into their skin rejuvenation program. In the past, the only trepidation was for those who have sensitive skins, but that has changed with the introduction of less irritating varieties like encapsulated retinaldehyde. These are also beneficial for those who may not be able to tolerate other acids and enzymes, but want the exfoliation and regenerating benefits of a corrective re-youth program. For those who are on a more intense anti-aging program, vitamin A works well to support the skin between peels and other corrective treatments.
WHEN CHOOSING A VITAMIN A LINE TO OFFER IN YOUR SPA, MAKE SURE THAT VITAMIN A IS NOT TOO FAR DOWN ON THE INGREDIENT LIST. AVOID FORMULAS WITH ADDED FRAGRANCE, DYES AND INFERIOR PRESERVATIVES. December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
While vitamin A proves essential in skin rejuvenation and correcting acne, it is necessary to adhere to certain precautions. For example, don’t use it when skin is exposed to the sun. In the treatment room, be sure to finish with a good mineral-based SPF and educate clients on the importance of staying out of the sun following treatment. For home care, retinoid formulas are best used at night, when degradation by light is minimal, and always protect the skin with SPF. Be sure to educate clients on best practices when using any retinoid formulation. When used properly, these time-tested vitamin A ingredients will prove a necessary component in your skin care toolbox. Not only are they effective in treating acne, they also enhance the re-youth process when rejuvenation is the goal. n
Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of esthetic experience. For more information, visit RhondaAllison.com and RAmethod.com. lneonline.com • Page 23
[S]PAssion!
In The City of Brotherly Love
PHIL ADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA | 2014 by Nathalie Gouillou
EuGene Gant, general session
She walked up stage with confidence. And while she proudly embraced her French training, Melissa Black is truly a Brazilian queen—in the world of waxing that is. “It’s become my passion to make my clients feel comfortable naked,” said Black, owner of Bombshell Salons & Candy Coat Beauty in Richmond, Va., as she finished a demonstration that included waxing etiquette for pregnant women, seniors, men, cross-genders and more… Just moments earlier, the crowd discovered the rejuvenating effects of marble stones, learned to conquer online skin care sales competition, and shook arms and hands in the air for health and mental clarity—only at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Philadelphia on Oct. 19 and 20, hosted by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines.
Will Strunk, congress host
Page 24 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
A GREAT SHOW
DRAWS A LOT OF NEW POTENTIAL CLIENTS
PCA Skin’s team
Circadia by Dr. Pugliese booth
Christina USA booth
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
INCREDIBLE RESULTS
“Once again we had a great show in Philadelphia,” said Dr. Ben Johnson, CEO and founder of Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare. “This show, more than most, draws a lot of new potential clients from a wide range of states that we would otherwise not be able to reach.” Jodi Moroh, Northeast region account executive for HydroPeptide concurred. “The beneficial partnerships that have come out of attending [The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa] year after year have been invaluable,” she said. “And I am confident that we will see the same incredible results after this year’s show, too!” With an attendance that blasted previous years, hundreds of exhibitor booths representing the biggest skin care companies, spa products and equipment as well as the latest technologies available, The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Philadelphia was the place to be on the East Coast. Attendees not only indulged in the variety of brands, services and the very best equipment, but benefitted from an array of lectures, seminars and workshops covering all areas of interest and presented by the top in the field of skin care and spa. “The Philadelphia show attendees were very excited to explore new techniques and the Le Mieux Meridian Gua Sha treatment had an amazing reception from estheticians,” said Janel Luu, founder of Le Mieux, about her demonstration at the General Session.“It was very informative,” said Linda Sugar Meadows, an esthetician from John Creek, Ga., who attended the session and quite a few of the workshops and seminars. Len Seward, owner of ibeautiful Health Clinic, a med spa in Hinsdale, Ill., agreed. “I have discovered a lot of what we need here at the show,” he said. “From beds to pharma-cosmetics to machines […] and other procedures we will be performing as well as some lines. It was well worth the trip.” Then there was Nuno Luis, owner of the very new Vero Skin Care Spa in Yonkers, N.Y., who walked the exhibitor floor with his wife, stopping at each booth, looking for the latest trends and treatments in the skin care and spa industry, with enthusiastic smiles. Attendees were greeted at the General Session with gifts from sponsors PCA SKIN and Circadia.
lneonline.com • Page 25
THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA | PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA 2014 | RECAP
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The event kicked off with welcoming words from Will Strunk, Dermascope’s publisher, who readied guests for a series of power demonstrations and lectures. Yogi EuGene Gant energized the crowd on both days with his unique presentation of Shakti Naam Yoga and breathing exercises before leaving the floor to Le Mieux’s founder Janel Luu, who brought ancient eastern wisdom and techniques for facial rejuvenation with Gua Sha. Dori Soukup of InSPAration Management enlightened spa professionals on compensation models, while Cecily Braden, founder of Beauty Secrets Global Spa Imports, brought people back to Asia with her stimulating talk and demonstration of Thai herbal poultice massage, before makeup artist veteran Sheila McKenna showed a flawless technique to cover tattoos and discussed color theory. CEO of Skin, Mind, Body Essentials Lake Louise brought the art of showerless body wraps, while Bonnie Canavino, president of Red Cherry Group, shared tips on conquering online skin care sales. Pat Mayrhofer, president of Nature’s Stones Inc., continued with her “cool” demonstration of cold marble stones face rejuvenation. Finally Black, of Bombshell Salons & Candy Coat Beauty, briefed attendees on the secrets and etiquette of body waxing. “We always find the [International Congress of Esthetics and Spa] show valuable and definitely worthwhile, as it keeps us connected to our clients and allows us to discover new partners,” said Rhonda Allison, founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises. “And we love the city with so much history and charm!” Do not miss this unique opportunity to learn, share and get your hands on the very best this industry has to offer in the City of Brotherly Love and join us next time at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia on Oct. 25 and 26, 2015! n
Attendees entering exhibit hall
Éminence Organic Skin Care booth
Revitalash booth
M’lis booth
HydroPeptide booth
Silhouet-Tone booth
Ecogenics Booth
Bella Schneider Beauty booth
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines cosponsor four International Congress of Esthetics and Spa educational conferences/trade shows annually.
THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA | PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA 2014 | RECAP
CryoClear booth
Bio Jouvance booth
Osmosis P端r Medical Skin Care booth
HydraFacial booth
Saian booth
Germaine de Capuccini booth
Candy Coat Beauty booth
Image Skincare booth
The Pugliese Family
Eve Taylor booth
Klapp Cosmetic booth
Lash Bomb booth
Minkys booth
FOLLOW THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA ON
Dates for 2015 Conferences: Miami Beach, Fla., March 1-2 Arlington, Texas, April 26-27 | Long Beach, Calif., September 20-21 | Philadelphia, Pa., October 25-26
skin
pH
Just how important is it? By Ben Johnson, M.D.
Esthetic schools around the country instill the basics on epidermal anatomy and physiology, and the lesson always includes a discussion of the importance of skin pH. For decades we have actually attempted to “balance” the pH of the skin with toners and the like. Do we really have an impact on the skin when we apply acidic or basic topicals? The answers may surprise you.
pH And Skin Care Low pH acids are often used in daily skin care regimens that carry pHs in the 2 to 4 range. What effect does this daily application have on the pH of the skin and how long does it last? Since we know that our bacteria are an actual part of the epidermis, we need to question why we want to harm them.
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photos: Shutterstock.com
Understanding pH The skin’s pH varies from more basic to more acidic as we move from the hypodermis to the stratum corneum. As is typical of this remarkable organ, the inherent design is brilliant and highly protective. First, let’s establish that the pH within the dermis is about 7 and declines to as low as 4.5 near the stratum corneum. With each layer of the epidermis, the skin’s processes adjust to the environment. Keratinocyte formation prefers a pH of around 6, whereas enzymes in the middle of the epidermis that create our lipid barrier function best at a pH of 5. The common bacteria found on the surface (P. Acnes and S. Epidermidis) of the skin participate in the production of our protective barrier by creating acidic proteins that maintain the pH at the surface around 4.5. While they have no problem surviving if not thriving in those conditions, their actions prevent opportunistic infections from occurring in most cases.
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
lneonline.com • Page 29
spa | skin pH There is increasing evidence that acne is not a bacterial problem and bacteria live happily and protect us from birth until the day we die. Applying high dose, low pH acids to the skin will harm the “good bacteria,” along with removing lipids and coenocyte layers. Instantly, the skin will drop its outer pH by a modest amount as the blend of the existing pH and the acidic product may temporarily drop the stratum corneum pH to 3.5. This triggers the lower layers (stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum) to increase their lipid production and barrier replacement components. However, by damaging or removing the most acidic portion of the skin, there will be a natural tendency for the skin’s pH to assume the pH of the layers deeper in the epidermis, since the components making up the acidic surface environment have been damaged. The acids will often be neutralized within minutes and the repair of the stratum corneum becomes the skin’s next priority.
Soap Can Be Too Alkaline According to research, soaps often have a negative impact by temporarily increasing the pH from 4.5 to 6.6. These changes tell an interesting story. Alkaline soaps (pH 9.5) had an alkalinizing effect on the skin as we might imagine, but the neutral soaps (pH 5.5) also had significant alkalinization. There is an immediate effect from the pH of the solution being put on the skin, but the lasting effect on pH appears to be coming from the disruption of the surface bacteria and lipids.
You would think that the two soaps would be significantly dissimilar because of the pH differences, but instead it was their effect on the epidermis that made the most lasting changes.
Alkaline Effect On Skin pH Alkaline water (pH of 8 or higher) has also been shown to change the pH from 4.5 to 6. This reflects the saturation of water into the top layers. If this is not accompanied by scrubbing or a prolonged soak, then the effects may not be that significant. This water absorbs or evaporates fairly quickly, which means the pH likely lasts anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours. Most shower water has a pH of around 7, which is a little better, but it’s easy to see why our skin is dry all the time between water jets and strong soaps. Typically it takes the skin one to three days to repair lost lipids and bacteria. Alkaline solutions will temporarily saturate the skin, and this effect lasts a few hours. That is only assuming that we are not stripping the barrier twice daily during recovery. The most important changes that occur, the lasting ones, happen when we overly acidify or alkalinize, resulting in structural changes. It’s clear that most of the products we put on the face should be as close to a pH of 5 as possible to reduce the amount of barrier disruption, improve hydration and skin sensitivity. Cleansers should also be in that pH range. But more importantly, if they are exfoliating in any way, it worsens the pH disruption. Any scrub used on the skin will raise the skin’s pH. Toners, while in many cases alkaline, would only serve to worsen the structural damage (if they are alcohol based) and overly alkalinize the skin.
Ben Johnson, M.D., is a physician, internationally renowned educator, entrepreneur, inventor and outside-the-box thinker who has spent most of his career in esthetics. He is the founder and formulator of two innovative and successful skin care lines, most recently Osmosis Skincare. Dr. Johnson is the creator of groundbreaking supplements that have significantly improved the health and appearance of many individuals around the world. Page 30 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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The Optimum pH The takeaway from this conversation is that the skin has many balances and counterbalances to create its complex environment. Making alterations to one aspect of the skin often has ramifications somewhere else. However, it’s clear that using products closer to a pH of 5 is the most ideal way to maintain good barrier health. Remember that a strong barrier means less inflammation from the sun and environmental pollutants, more hydration, less sensitivity and improved appearance. As we acknowledge that bacteria in the gut is very important to digestive health, we too must recognize that bacteria is good for skin health. n
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radiant look Darphin’s Ideal Resource Anti-Dark Circle Eye Illuminator restores vitality to fragile eyes, while soothing and preserving youthful appearance, says the company. The combination of sigesbeckia extract and oligopeptides help support natural collagen, while the green tea extract helps soothe and protect eye contour.
866.880.4559 darphin.com
POWER DETOX Circadia’s Glyco Guard helps protect the skin against environmental assault that can lead to skin ravaging glycation, says the company. This cream contains extract of sweet osmanthus (fragrant olive), which has a very strong antioxidant potency. It detoxifies skin from dangerous oxidants and glycating agents while yielding a variety of skin protecting and anti-aging benefits.
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
SkinNews
800.630.4710 circadia.com
Visit LNEonline.com for more news
turn back time Guinot’s Anti-Wrinkle Rich Cream has a rich texture that smoothes and hydrates skin, says the company. The formula is specifically for dry and undernourished skin. The cream features hyaluronic acid, shea butter and biopeptides EL and CL that help stimulate collagen and elastin.
212.532.1030 guinotusa.com
gold REJUVENATion Bio France Lab’s Elite 24kt Pure Gold French Facial Treatment Kit includes the perfect protocol OF 6 STEPS combining certified 24kt gold, caviar, pearl and champagne. The anti-aging, cell-repairing, rejuvenating protocol nourishes skin, resulting in a radiant youthful glow, says the company. Gold improves skin elasticity, accelerates cell renewal and reverses oxidative damage.
323.846.5933 biofrancelab.com
Page 32 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
bright from the sea Matis Paris’ Black Caviar Eye Gel features caviar extract, marine collagen and firmactiv complex. The eye contour is regenerated, fresher and smoother, says the company. Skin is moisturized, toned and firmed as the gel enhances the skin’s flexibility and firmness.
972.771.0300 myrdm.com
Marine vitality Thalgo presents Prodigé des Océans, a new regenerating serum containing 61 marine nutrients to stimulate exceptional tissue regeneration, says the company. The essence acts on all layers of the skin to deeply invigorate and revitalize cellular metabolism. The skin, brightened from within, regains its original vitality and radiance.
844.235.8842 lovelyskin.com
POWER DUO Odacité’s Ultimate Hydration is a facial serum treatment that combines two serums concentrated with Marula, Neroli and Moringa Petigrain. Marula restores the protective layer on skin’s surface, while Moringa Petigrain’s essential fatty acids and antioxidants intensely nourish skin and provide hydration, says the company.
800.809.8714 odacite.com
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
CeLuvia announces the launch of its advanced skin care collection with three products: Essential Renewal Day Therapy, Intensive Brightening Complex and Advanced Restorative Night Complex. CeLuvia’s formulas incorporate naturally occurring growth factors and other molecules that are plentiful in young skin but diminish over time. Each product includes Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptors (PPAR), growth factors and antioxidants.
SkinNews
NEW COLLECTION
954.525.9665 thalgousa.com
Visit LNEonline.com for more news lneonline.com • Page 33
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Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 • LNEONLINE.COM 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 • USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664
SPA
of the
MONTH The Beauty of War
SenSpa
San Francisco, Calif.
by Laetitia Longuefosse
There are places you can visit and places that visit you. SenSpa definitely belongs to the latter. One’s first impression upon entering the spa cannot be erased; the long history and heritage of the place are almost tangible. Launched in April 2006, SenSpa is a renovated 13,000 square foot World War I army barrack located in the lush Presidio of San Francisco, Calif. The spa is divided into four areas: a reception area and retail boutique, a waiting area where healthy snacks and tea are offered, and a sequence of interconnected lounges, each of which functions as a comfortable, communal gathering space. Fourteen treatment rooms, including two VIP couples’ rooms with jet tubs, surround these lounging spaces. SenSpa was created with a sharp vision: the spa experience is approached from a holistic perspective that cares for the “outer” issues by helping guests first address inner core health conditions. Services encompass a totally integrated approach to well-being.
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December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
lneonline.com • Page 37
spa | spa of the month SenSpa roots its services in a crosscultural blend of healing traditions and wellness-oriented therapies that promote optimum health. SenSpa’s ethos and guiding passion are to educate and expose its guests to alternative choices that lead to a healthier lifestyle.
STANDOUT TREATMENT EXPERIENCES The top two goals of most guests are relaxation and well-being. SenSpa delivers authentic, results-oriented treatments and products to detoxify, release and nourish the mind, body and spirit. The most popular treatments are detoxoriented, and length can be adapted.
The following is a sample of some of SenSpa’s offerings: The Intuitive Journey Massage (50 or 90 minutes, $115 or $195) is a sensory journey to help balance physical, emotional, mental and subtle bodies. This transforming experience may include energy balancing, guided meditation or visualization, vibrational healing therapies and various light massage modalities. The Buddha Belly Pregnancy Massage (50 or 90 minutes, $115 or $195) is a soothing massage for mother and baby that relieves the common aches and pains that accompany growth, weight gain and other bodily changes. The Craniosacral Therapy (50 minutes, $115) helps release restrictions in the cranial sacral system of the body. The therapist palpates and monitors the rhythm of the cerebrospinal fluid that surrounds the brain and spinal cord to detect restriction and imbalance in the body. The SenZen Body Ritual (60 minutes, $140) begins with a moment of therapeutic meditation guided by the smell of essential oil. “It’s important to take a minute and pause our business schedules to appreciate Page 38 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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spa
and condition our body to receive a treatment,” says Terri Eaton, outreach manager and certified massage therapist. Once the body and mind are fully open, the ritual opens with a custom aromatic scrub of bamboo and Thai citrus, followed by the application of organic and essential oils, before the guest is treated to a deluxe scalp treatment and body treatment moisturizer. The Freestyle Deluxe Facial (80 minutes, $225) is a customized, “anything goes” treatment that may include any of the latest technologies in skin care, including microdermabrasion and LED light therapy. No two Freestyle Deluxe Facials are the same. The Lymphatic Detox Facial (60 minutes, $150) utilizes two forms of lymphatic drainage, manual and electronic, to cleanse the skin beyond the surface by removing inflammatory products, toxins and cellular
debris. The result is more efficient transportation of nutrients and oxygen to skin cells and improved healing.
STAFF TRAINING AND INCENTIVES The outstanding staff is a key factor of SenSpa’s success. SenSpa has more than 50 employees (including 36 massage therapists, six estheticians, a naturopathic doctor and an acupuncturist) offering massage, skin care, esthetics, naturopathic medicine, acupuncture and holistic healing. To maintain this level of service, staff training is key. “We hold an ‘all-hands’ meeting every other month for three hours. This meeting includes updates, goals, ‘Elevate Awards,’ shared skills lessons and communication classes,” explains Eaton. SenSpa also holds trainings seasonally when new services are developed and implemented. SenSpa reviews staff twice a year and sets sales, service and personal productivity goals.
SenSpa also utilizes survey responses from clients, sent out after every service, to encourage the staff and offer feedback for growth.
ATTRACTING AND RETAINING CLIENTS SenSpa utilizes a wide array of marketing techniques, from social network platforms such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, LinkedIn and Pinterest to in-house wellness workshops, as well as on and off site corporate wellness, lectures, engaging in community and sporting activities and philanthropic outreach. SenSpa attracts new clients through its Spread Wellness Referral Program, which offers incentives to new and existing clients, rewarding them for their loyalty. Customer retention is achieved in two ways, through their spa membership program and a dynamic spa menu that changes with the seasons.
Page 40 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
spa | spa of the month
SenSpa 1161 Gorgas Ave San Francisco, Calif. 415.441.1777
senspa.com
• 14 treatment rooms, including two couples’ VIP rooms with jet tubs • 36 massage therapists, six estheticians, a naturopathic doctor and an acupuncturist PRODUCT LINE USED AND RETAILED: Skinceuticals, Cosmedix, 302, Nuface, Kneipp, La Bella Donna Mineral Makeup, Tara Aromatherapy, Clarisonic, Supersmile, Yoga Balm REVENUE COMPOSITION: • • • •
Facials: 15% Massage and bodycare: 50% Retail: 14% Gift cards, series and memberships: 21%
SENSPA’S AWARDS: SenSpa has an inclusive membership program for $115 that includes a 50-minute massage, facial or acupuncture treatment as well as a 10 percent discount on all additional services and retail products purchased in the SenBoutique. “SenSpa is also distinctive because it’s one of the first membership-based models in the spa industry. We believe that membership, rather than single sessions, enables our members to cultivate their practice and make a commitment to not only themselves but also the well-being community,” says Eaton. “SenSpa also has a series program that incentivizes client purchases in bulk number of massages, facials, acupunctures or naturopathic treatments at a discounted cost. This is one of our most popular forms of membership.” The SenSpa menu changes seasonally. SenSpa has a treatment development team that focuses on the changes in nature, the needs of the body as well as innovative techniques
that are entering into the holistic and beauty industry.
SPECIAL EVENTS SenSpa holds special events throughout the year, including an annual shopping holiday event during the first weekend in December to showcase in-house retail products and bring in local vendors for the weekend. SenSpa also holds a quarterly Wednesday Wellness series spearheaded by its naturopathic doctor and holistic health team. New events are constantly being developed to engage its clientele, such as the Fall Anti-Aging Peel Event, October Breast Cancer Awareness Workshop, SenSpa’s Summer Wellness in the Presidio Health Fair and a Wedding and Beauty Blogger Event Mixer. SenSpa also uses cross marketing through a partnership with the San Francisco Runner’s Club, by offering a quarterly light brunch with a sports oriented health talk series, as well as offering a runner’s club member benefit for services. n
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
• 2012 spAWARDS: Top 100 Spas in America • 2012 Best of the Bay Day Spa nominee • 2011 CitySearch Best Massage • 2011 Truth in Aging: Best in Beauty • 2009 7x7 Magazine: Best Spa/Wellness Center • 2006 7x7 Magazine: Best Royal Treatment
Laetitia Longuefosse has lived in New York City since 1999. She was appointed Foreign Trade Advisor for France for her expertise in cosmetics. Longuefosse specializes in analyzing the differences and similarities between beauty perceptions in the United States versus Europe. She holds a degree from Institut de Sciences Politiques, where she graduated with honors, as well as a master’s degree in marketing and communication from Ecole Supérieure de Commerce Toulouse in France. lneonline.com • Page 41
Page 42 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2014
GREAT STEAM RISING Hammam Inspired Treatments In The Spa by Amanda Clinton Winter
The hammam has long been the traditional site of physi-
cal and spiritual purification in the Middle East, serving as a communal sanctuary where people have gathered to be renewed. A hammam is best described as a variation of a steam bath—a wet cousin of the sauna. Don Genders, managing director of Design for Leisure, an architecture firm that specializes in hammams, explains that historic hammams were “bathing rooms… a place to get cleansed.” The hot air bathing ritual is most often associated with Turkey and Morocco, where the hammam remains an important part of culture and life. The abundant benefits of the hammam experience and treatments— including detoxification, drained sinuses, improved blood circulation, strengthened immune system, muscle relaxation and rejuvenated skin— are receiving recognition throughout the spa and wellness industry of the Western world.
lneonline.com • Page 43
spa | great steam rising The steamy heat (approximately 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 100 percent humidity) is a highly detoxifying treatment as it opens the pores of the skin, facilitating the expulsion of toxins and paving the way for facial and body purification.
Traditional Hammam Setup The authentic Turkish hammam typically consists of three main areas: a grand, hot steam room with a large marble stone at the center, where bathers lay as attendants scrub them and administer massages; a warm room for bathing; and a cool room for resting, where guests may enjoy a refreshing drink and continue to socialize. A domed roof holds in the condensation of steam. Areas are typically genderseparated and nudity is optional.
Genders acknowledges that today’s hammams are designed with privacy in mind to meet all guests’ expectations. He explains that a typical hammam setup entails adjacent treatment rooms as well as a conventional steam room off of the main hammam. Genders describes the treatment rooms as “mini replicas” of the larger hammam, with a hot table, hot floors and a hot and cold basin for rinsing. Upon arrival, visitors are given a pestemal (a woven cloth traditionally used to cover the body in the hammam) and sandals (floors are often heated between 100 and 103 degrees) before moving into the first steam room. Genders points out that in some modern hammams, the marble structure at the center of the main steam room is “just an architectural feature,” although visitors can lie on it to intensify the detoxifying sweating process. After the guest is warmed up, they enter the warm room, equipped with hot and cold water basins for bathing. Here, they lie down on a smaller marble slab for their treatment.
Page 44 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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A Modern Hammam Experience
“Inspired by nature... Realized by science.” Plant & Fruit Stem Cells
Apple
Edelweiss
Strengthens and protects skin cells
A potent anti-wrinkle treatment
Grape
Protects from UV rays and environment stress
Orange
Minimizes fine lines/wrinkles, cellular regenerator
+ Peptides Argireline® – Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Matrixyl® – Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Syn®-Coll – Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Regu®-age – Soy Peptides, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract Eyeliss™ – Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Rigin™ – Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Aldenine® - Tripeptide-1 Snap-8™ – Acetyl Octapeptide-3 Syn-Ake® – Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate Nutripeptides® – Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Matrixyl® synthe’6™ - Palmitoyl Cyclodextrin-38 Eyeseryl® – Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Stem Cells & Peptides Skin Care Technology Here to Stay Plant & Fruit stem cells have represented a major breakthrough in skin care, launching the beginning of a new system of treating the skin. With their ability to strengthen, protect, and replenish human skin cells, skin care has never had more potential to improve skin health and the appearance of aging skin. As Stem Cell Technology has gained popularity, Peptides have quietly remained a fixture in age-corrective skin care products. Their ability to stimulate different functions in the skin such as stimulating Collagen production, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, muscle cell contraction, and developing the dermal layer of the skin is unmatched. With both technologies working synergistically, we’ve been committed to using a wide range and high concentrations of both to formulate some of the finest, result-driven skin care available.
LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce .co m Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card
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spa | great steam rising
Page 46 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
spa | great steam rising
The modern hammam treatment ritual involves the same steps as a traditional hammam treatment: exfoliation, massage and soap scrub. First, an attendant soaks the body with warm water and a sudsy lather made in a pillowcase from a block of soap. The body is massaged while it is still slippery and wet. Using a coarse goat hair mitten, the attendant scrubs (or rather “sandpapers”) the body, removing several dead layers of skin. Another soapy drenching is followed by a cold water rinse. Nadine Shelf, spa director at The Spa at Trump SoHo in New York City, N.Y., explains that their hammam treatments take place in a private room. Unlike the traditional hammam that Genders describes, the floor of the hammam at Trump SoHo is heated to a comfort level that allows guests to walk barefoot.
Moroccan And Turkish Differentiation The key differentiating factor between a Moroccan and a Turkish hammam experience is that a mud-based concoction is utilized in the Moroccan treatment, often in the form of clay or volcanic ash. The Spa at Trump SoHo is inspired by Ivanka Trump’s travels to Turkey and Morocco. Treatment options allow guests to experience both cultural rituals and discover the differences for themselves. For the Turkish Hammam Treatment ($175 weekdays/$190 weekends, 45 minutes), guests warm themselves up on the marble belly stone of the private domed heated room, while an attendant uses an oil based castile soap and a traditional mitt (a kessa) to exfoliate the body, leaving skin feeling like silk. The Moroccan Hammam Treatment ( $215 weekdays /$230 weekends, 60 minutes) takes place in the same heated space. The skin is cleansed with authentic Moroccan black soap made from olive oil and crushed olives, and an intense full body exfoliation is performed to soften and nourish the skin. A full body application of warm Ghassoul clay is then applied to aid in detoxification. The service is finished with a full body rinse and scalp massage.
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
lneonline.com • Page 47
spa | great steam rising
At the Hammam Spa in Toronto, Canada, the Turkish Bath Treatment ( $125, 60 minutes ) begins in the Hammam Steam Room, and is followed by the authentic bath in one of their Turkish Suites, lying on a white marble table heated to 108 degrees in a candlelit environment. Its purpose is to cleanse, relax and purify the body and skin using hot and cool water techniques. The Hammam Rhassoul Clay Wrap ($130, 60 minutes) is the Moroccan variation of the hammam treatment.
Complements Other Services Hammams can add an extra element of relaxation and boost benefits to many spa experiences. It’s a central part of a spa visit at the full service Hammam Spa. “We find that any client who isn’t just popping in for a nail or waxing service typically always uses the steam,
at least for a couple of minutes,” says Hammam Spa Director of Marketing and Operations Paula Aveling. “Preservice steaming allows the body and muscles to relax and warm up to allow for the most effective treatment. Postservice steaming allows toxins which are brought to the skin’s surface through massage to be released through the sweat glands.” Guests at Hammam Spa have complimentary access to the hammam with any services valued at $100. Shelf says that Trump SoHo guests who book the hammam treatment usually book a massage to follow, and that it can be combined with any other spa treatment except waxing.
Return on Investment Installing a hammam is a big budget undertaking. Design for Leisure’s Genders explains that an “entry level” hammam costs approximately $80,000.
With modern features such as private treatment rooms, the cost can reach up to $250,000, he says, and another $50,000 may be necessary for any final additions and incidental expenses. A spacious setting is required for a hammam. Genders says that a traditional hammam with a treatment surface in the center and seats around the perimeter requires a minimum space of 20 x 15 feet; this adheres to ADA compliance standards as well. A space of six by five feet for a mechanical closet would also be necessary, he adds. He points out that since the hammam is prefabricated offsite, spa operations are not disrupted during construction. The hammam can be a good source of new revenue, and may be offered in many contexts to accommodate different price points. Genders explains that his clients create hammam services for individuals, couples’ experiences, group packages, Do it Yourself packages, etc. For larger spas that want to offer an all-encompassing experience that caters to guests seeking detoxification, exfoliation and enhanced skin and body treatments, consider the advantages of a hammam. n
CONTRAINDICATIONS • Respiratory disease • Heart palpitations • High or low blood pressure • Pregnancy *Waxing services should not be done on the same day as a
Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com. Page 48 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
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hammam service.
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AT ASSOCIATED BODYWORK & MASSAGE PROFESSIONALS (ABMP), MORE THAN 83 PERCENT OF THE 81,000 MASSAGE AND BODYWORK MEMBERS LIST HOT STONE MASSAGE AS AN IMPORTANT PART OF THEIR PROFESSIONAL PRACTICES.
DON’T GET BURNED! Guidelines For Hot Stone Session Safety BY ANNE WILLIAMS
HOT STONE MASSAGE is a popular menu item at spas and massage clinics across the country—and for good reason. The warmth of heated stones relaxes tension patterns, eases pain, facilitates profound relaxation and allows for deep, focused work on target muscles. Basalt stones, the type most often used in stone massage, have a smooth, pleasing texture that glides easily over the skin and imparts a luxurious sensation like nothing else. Websites, menus and other promotional art often show pictures of these elegant black rocks, placed in sophisticated patterns on flawless skin. As a result, people view stone massage as something unique and adventurous. It’s chic and trendy, and works so well that clients leave feeling satisfied, their money well spent.
spa | don’t get burned
At Associated Bodywork & Massage Professionals (ABMP), more than 83 percent of the 81,000 massage and bodywork members list hot stone massage as an important part of their professional practices. Their sister organization, Associated Skin Care Professionals, notes that many estheticians use stone massage on the hands, feet or face to enhance their skin care treatments. Stone massage is just as popular with therapists as it is with clients. Unfortunately, it’s not just popular— it’s dangerous when not done properly. In 2010, hot stone massage was the highest liability claim area for ABMP. Injured clients reported and received significant financial payouts for thirddegree burns. Many of them needed skin grafting procedures to address scarring and skin discoloration. After an assessment of the claim data, ABMP identified conditions that contraindicate stone massage, special client populations who should probably not receive stone massage, and created basic guidelines for the safe application of stone massage for all clients.
Massage and skin care therapists know that a contraindication is any condition that makes the application of massage or a specific technique inadvisable or potentially dangerous to the client. Examples of contraindications for any type of massage include a significant fever (100 degrees or higher), vomiting, a cold (unless symptoms have been present for five days or longer), an acute systemic condition (when the condition affects the entire body and not just one local region), an injury that requires medical attention, or symptoms that are intense and unexplained, such as a sharp, sudden headache. If the client has any condition that is contraindicated for regular massage, he or she is also contraindicated for stone massage.
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CONTRAINDICATIONS
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spa | don’t get burned from the stones may exacerbate undetected inflammation and make the condition worse.
RHEUMATOID ARTHRITIS (RA) RA can flare up and be exacerbated if the body is over-heated, as might occur with stone massage. Hot treatments are best avoided, even if the client is in remission and not currently experiencing symptoms.
Injured clients reported and received significant financial payouts for third-degree burns, the need for skin grafting procedures, or permanent scarring and skin discoloration.
VOLATILE CONDITIONS Conditions that are volatile, where clients experience good or bad days, such as fibromyalgia, are contraindicated for stone massage. Ask relevant questions during the client health intake to determine if clients have conditions that are prone to flare up, and direct them to less stimulating options if you find a flare-up is possible.
DIABETES Poorly managed or advanced diabetes can lead to ulcers, neuropathy, edema, gangrene and amputations because of compromised circulation. A client who has well-managed diabetes may be able to receive stone massage, provided his or her extremities are in good condition. In this case, a physician’s release is required first. Other conditions that impair circulation are also contraindicated.
LOCAL CONTRAINDICATIONS A local contraindication may be present, and can allow a client to receive stone
massage everywhere except the affected area. These include a localized skin condition, sunburn, an area of broken skin, or localized swelling from a soft-tissue injury. You can massage away from the injury site but not close to the site.
NEUROPATHY Neuropathy is contraindicated for stone massage because it causes numbness, which impairs a client’s ability to give feedback on the temperature or depth of the treatment.
RECENT CAR ACCIDENT Clients often walk away from car accidents believing they are fine, and don’t realize they have sustained whiplash or other acceleration-deceleration injuries until days later. If the client has been in a recent car accident, the heat
SPECIAL CLIENT POPULATIONS In some cases, the client is not contraindicated for massage but the massage must be adapted to fit the client’s overall vitality, physical status and stamina. For example, a normally energetic client who is undergoing cancer treatment may be in a weakened condition and won’t benefit from stone massage. A Swedish massage would be a better option. Similarly, a client in the early stages of HIV/AIDS is not contraindicated, but should the condition advance and their condition become unstable, this client is likely better served by a less stimulating session. A young adult in good physical condition can receive a more vigorous massage than an older client who is thin and frail.
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CONDITIONS THAT ARE SPECIFICALLY CONTRAINDICATED FOR STONE MASSAGE INCLUDE:
spa | don’t get burned Older adults possess less adipose tissue and have thinner skin than younger adults. This makes them more prone to burns. While clients with healthy, normally progressing pregnancies are not contraindicated for stone massage, you won’t want to use this technique if there is any risk. Stone massage is often too warm for pregnant women. Err on the side of caution and obtain a physician’s release before providing stone massage to a pregnant client. Stone massage tends to be too stimulating for children, who also have less adipose tissue and so are more
prone to burns. In one situation, a minor failed to voice her concerns that she was uncomfortable because she did not know what to expect from stone massage. She had to receive medical treatment for her burns.
SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR ALL CLIENTS Let’s look at some important safety guidelines that can protect all of your clients from harm. Previously, we discussed the fact that promotional materials often depict hot stones placed directly onto bare skin. This is the num-
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
ber one reason people get burned. Never, ever, place heated stones directly onto bare skin and leave them there. Instead, use two insulating layers before you place stones on clients. You want to use a sheet next to the client and place a thick bath towel over the top of the sheet, onto which you will place heated stones. Never place stones underneath a client, even if you place a towel over the stones to protect the client’s skin. The weight of the client on top of the stones increases the heat transfer to the client’s skin and is likely to cause burning.
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spa | don’t get burned
applying stone massage. If you need an insulating layer to hold the stones, they are too hot to use on a client. There have been situations where the therapist adapted to the heat of the stones and ended up burning themselves and also the client during a session. Again, regularly check the thermometer. If we all work together to direct clients with contraindicated conditions to other types of massage, to avoid the use of stone massage for certain client populations, and to follow strict safety guidelines, stone massage can support your thriving massage and skin care practice by appealing to a wide variety of clients. Let’s ensure this exceptional therapy remains in our scope of practice and benefits clients. *Therapists should check with their insurance provider to ensure that any methods, techniques or modalities they practice are specifically covered by their policy. Therapists working for spas or clinics may only be covered
by the businesses’ insurance policy if they are NOT named specifically in a liability claim. Most business policies will not cover a therapist who is named individually in the claim. For this reason, it’s always best to carry your own insurance policy. n
Anne Williams is the director of education for the Associated Bodywork & Massage Professionals (ABMP). She is also a licensed massage therapist, esthetician, certified reflexologist, clinical hypnotherapist, registered counselor, aromatherapist, author and educator. Williams is in charge of developing the program for ABMP’s School Issues Forum each year and for the presentation of ABMP’s Instructor 101 Webinar Series. She published Spa Bodywork: A Guide for Massage Therapists with Lippincott Williams & Wilkins in 2006 and Massage Mastery: From Student to Professional in 2012.
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Another important point is that you should always use a digital, probetype thermometer in your heating unit. Don’t use a medical thermometer, latte or meat thermometer, or the glass type used in candy-making. Check the thermometer regularly; the temperature in your heating unit will constantly fluctuate as you place cooled stones back into the unit to reheat and remove hot stones for the next body area. Your hands will adjust to the heat, so you can’t depend on how the stones feel. Always use a thermometer. You want to work between 130 and 140 degrees when applying stones to fleshy areas. If you are working on the face or other delicate tissue, the stone temperature should not exceed 120 degrees. Never use stones that are heated above 140 degrees, as they can burn the client, even when they are in constant movement over the skin. Some therapists have gotten into trouble by wearing dish gloves while
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DETOX GUIDE As we enter the holiday season when overindulgence is the norm, prepping for detox is a MUST! Want to ADD DETOX to your menu or REVAMP EXISTING OFFERINGS? LNE & Spa Detox Guide is your go to resource...
IT’S A WORD that people throw around on many occasions, after copious holiday meals, one too many drinks during a fun night in town, or simply when they feel sluggish and need to get their body and mind back in sync—detox. In the spa world, detox encompasses many services to help the body get rid of toxins and improve one’s well-being through a combination of treatments, diet and exercises. Long before people entrusted their health to the hands of spa practitioners, detoxing belonged to the realm of physicians, who since ancient times have put forth the importance of purifying the body. We owe the concept of detoxing to ancient Egypt and their notion of autointoxication, the belief that toxins were absorbed through the intestine as feces putrefied. Ancient Greeks developed the idea under their humoral theory, which claimed that bile, phlegm and blood—the four humors (bile being divided into yellow and black)—would not only bring diseases to the body, but affect one’s mood and personality when out of balance. Western and Middle Eastern physicians adopted the concept for many centuries. Ayurveda, the system of Hindu traditional medicine followed along the same vein, with beliefs centered around three doshas—three humors— that need balance for health and wellbeing. The solution: purification of the body, a.k.a. detox. In ancient times, physicians had recourse to a variety of treatments in order to detox the body, many of which have long lost their appeal. Bloodletting, which was done either
by Anna G. Wilhem
by cutting a vein or with the use of freshwater leeches, was meant to rid the body of “bad blood” and cure several conditions such as fever, headaches and other illnesses. Cupping was a variant of bloodletting, where a cup would be placed on opened skin to suction the “bad blood.” That very same technique applied on intact skin, which when removed leaves circular red marks, is what is now understood with the term cupping.
Closest to bloodletting, counterirritation was a technique that involved creating a blister on skin (with the help of a tepid hot agent). Enemas, cathartics (to facilitate bowel movements), and emetics (to bring about vomiting) are all evacuant that in some parts continue to be essential to detoxification. Perhaps the most extreme form of purification—although the practice has mainly been attached to providing relief from brain compression—was trephination (the perforation of the
skull with a surgical instrument). Finally, baths and massages of all types, as well as acupuncture, fasting and herbal supplements, are means that remain prominent in today’s detox programs at spas. While getting a rundown on the different detox treatments and their benefits is a must, it’s essential for your clients to grasp how the body naturally purifies itself. The liver, kidneys, intestines, lungs, skin and lymphatic system are all involved in cleansing the body of toxins. A healthy liver will transform toxins into a water-soluble form to be expelled through urine or as bile through the colon. An overloaded liver will allow for toxins to get back into the bloodstream and settle into fatty tissues. Kidneys filter more than 100 quarts of blood each day and remove waste and extra fluid to be eliminated through the bladder. The intestines not only allow the body to absorb nutrients, balance good and bad bacteria, but also act as filters to excrete toxins. The lungs mainly expel carbon dioxide but may also secrete phlegm—microbes and toxins that were not properly eliminated through the kidneys, liver and intestinal tract. Skin helps secrete toxins via the sweat glands, while the lymphatic system picks up toxins from the body’s cells and sends them to the lymph nodes to be eliminated. If specialty detox spas can offer an array of detox programs that will include all body organs involved in purification—including specialized diets and workouts—high end spas, day spas or salons also have a myriad of detox treatments to choose from to add to their menu for their health and wellness conscious clients. n
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DETOX 101
Cleanse and Restore with
Detox Body Wraps
TOXINS find their way into our systems every day, through everything from the air we breathe to the food we eat. In modern society, we are hyperaware of the toxins all around us, and there is a lot of buzz around the word “detox.” So it’s no wonder that detoxifying treatments have a solid presence and a strong client following in the spa industry. Body wrap treatments are among the most common spa services for detoxification, a category that also includes massage, hydrotherapy and Pancha Karma (see page 71), as well as cleansing programs that incorporate dietary overhauls and juice fasting. Detoxifying body wraps work from the inside out, not only pulling harmful toxins from the body, but also delivering essential vitamins and minerals to the skin, the body’s largest organ. The base for detoxifying wrap treatments is generally made up of some type of mud. The high mineral content of mud provides a healing and detoxifying effect. Clay is a form of mud that serves as a great base for detoxifying treatments because it absorbs and draws toxins out from the skin. Bentonite, green, red and Dead Sea clay are all
used in detoxifying body wraps. The most common ingredients added to this base include sea salts, seaweed, aloe vera and various botanical oils and detoxifying herbs. In a wet room, detoxifying wraps start with an exfoliating protocol, often beginning with a dry brushing and followed with a sea salt scrub (pumice, sugar or Epsom salts may also be used). This allows for the skin to more fully absorb the beneficial nutrients of the mud or clay body wrap that is applied next. The body is then wrapped with bandages or plastic for approximately 20 to 40 minutes before being rinsed off. At the end of the treatment, a moisturizing lotion with botanical ingredients is applied. However, a wet room is not essential to offering a detoxifying body wrap. This treatment can easily be offered in a showerless facility as well (see “Get Results Without the Mess” in our November edition). In a showerless version of a detoxifying wrap, the protocol differs in that there is no shower or rinsing off following the application of the wrap solution; instead, the client is instructed not to shower
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
for 12 hours after the wrap solution is applied so as to allow for the skin to absorb the beneficial properties of the solution. Rather than mud or clay, a gel solution formulated from seaweed or algae is used. Given the popularity of cleansing and detoxification protocols today, there is clearly a huge market out there for detoxifying body wraps in your spa! n
DETOXIFYING SPA BODY WRAPS WHITINSVILLE WELLNESS CENTER & DAY SPA Whitinsville, Mass. Detoxifying Mud Wrap (60 minutes, $75) DTOX DAY SPA Los Angeles, Calif. Dtox Body Wrap (50 minutes, $100) GT MASSAGE & SKIN CARE Wheaton, Ill. Slimming Body Wrap (60 minutes, $95) lneonline.com • Page 61
DETOX GUIDE
by Amanda Clinton Winter
DETOX GUIDE
FACE DETOX FACIALS by Caroline Canetti
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ABOUT
Whether it’s indulging
Every bad thing we do shows up on our faces. This is why, especially as we enter the holiday season when overindulgences are the norm, spas are offering up rehab for the face with a variety of detox facials. Spa owner Alice Koskas. “One of our main focus areas are the ones that are primarily on the forehead, the main region that represents your digestions and elimination, this is where most clients tend to break out during the holidays.”
The Morning After Eye Treatment add-on contains caffeine, which topically helps stimulate the blood flow and circulation to soften, de-puff the eye area and reduce the appearance of dark circles. “We do a pressure point massage in the eye treatment with a pure essential oil that is calming and relaxing and helps drain the nasal area, but also helps with the swelling and puffiness. It’s a very popular add-on for our facial for those late night parties,” she says. As its name suggests, Nitespa in Mar Vista, Calif., also runs with a late-night theme for their treatments, which includes their popular AfterParty Signature Detox Facial (60 minutes, $109), explained on their menu with this clever description: “Jet lag? Stayed up past your bedtime? Your new favorite happy hour will replenish your skin, release toxins and soothe your aching head with dreamy steam, lavish hot towels, ritual scalp massage and all
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
the facial rejuvenation you require.” “As a way to promote these services, we do try to come up with fun and clever ways to talk about them to make them a little different and interesting to get people’s attention,” says Nitespa owner Julia Lolita Martin. At Dawn Day Spa in Dana Point, Calif., they take a “hair of the dog” attitude with their Apple Wine Detox Treatment (60 minutes, $197 or a series of six for $695). “Yes, we actually use wine in this treatment,” says owner Dawn Collis. “It’s very firming and toning, and has antioxidants that slow down the aging process and brightens the skin. It’s very popular year round, but we do a $69 special with an oxygen treatment around the holidays when people need to detox more. After a night of partying, you get dehydrated and the oxygen rehydrates the skin with collagen and hyaluronic acid. It puts moisture back in the cells,” she says. n
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DETOX GUIDE
in too much alcohol, eating an excessive amount of salty foods, staying up way past our beauty sleep bedtimes or having a crying fit over a breakup, every bad thing we do shows up on our faces. This is why, especially as we enter the holiday season when overindulgences are the norm, spas are offering up rehab for the face with a variety of detox facials. The Lounge Spa in Culver City, Calif., has a cocktail lounge-inspired theme with an assortment of facials, wraps and massages focusing on “the morning after,” including The Recovery facial (50 minutes, $95) and the add-on, The Morning After Eye Treatment ($20). “The Recovery facial is geared toward clients who are suffering acne or minor breakouts, and as we all know, around the holidays we tend to break out more due to all of the festive foods, cheeses, chocolate and alcohol we take in. Our papaya and pineapple enzyme helps to dissolve the dead skin surrounding the pores, so we can achieve thorough extractions, says The Lounge
by Carrie Ann Buckingham
There’s nothing more relaxing than a nice, long soak in a hot tub, and when you add the benefits of detoxing the body to it, it’s pure aquatic heaven for spa lovers.
Hydrotherapy—and even just the simple age-old act of taking a hot bath when one’s not feeling well—has been around for ages, but today some spas are finding a variety of unique ways to use the healing power of water to detoxify and cleanse their clients. Love Thyself Day Spa in Richardson, Texas, offers a wide assortment of therapeutic baths (30 minutes, $65), including their popular detox clay bath. “This clay is highly absorptive and adsorptive against all sorts of pathogens. It increases blood and lymphatic flow, which allows for better circulation and removal of waste,” says owner Lisa Weeks.
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DETOX GUIDE
DETOX WATERWORKS
Hydrotherapy has been around for ages, but today some spas are finding a variety of unique ways to use the healing power of water to detoxify and cleanse their clients. Detox footbaths have grown in popularity as well, with more foot spas popping up all over the country and day spas adding the simple and easy treatment to their menus in growing numbers. At Revitalize Day Spa & Wellness Center in La Grange, Texas, their Aqua Foot Detox Foot Bath (30 minutes, $55) helps detoxify, stimulate and balance the body’s energy meridians and ATP (adenosine triphosphate) production. “We also include a nice hot towel and therapeutic foot massage after removing the feet from the bath. It’s also a great add-on for our detoxing/ contouring body wraps, massages and reflexology treatments,” says owner Amy Newton.
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Newton says the footbaths have been a huge success because they deliver instant results, which inspires repeat clients. “To receive the maximum benefit of our foot bath treatments, an initial six treatments are recommended during a four to six week period with a monthly maintenance treatment,” she explains. However, depending on the client’s needs, such as eliminating metal toxicity, more frequent treatments are needed for extended periods of time. “The body will continue to release toxins up to 48 hours after the initial treatment so clients will need to wait the full 48 hours before having the next treatment,” says Newton, who includes a monthly maintenance footbath in their Be Well membership program. Another unique aquatic experience comes from licensed massage therapist Tomi Murphey, who offers water cupping sessions at Santa Rita Springs and serves as the medical office manager/wellness coordinator for Tula Wellness in Tucson, Ariz. “This bodywork is performed in a heated pool (96-98 degrees) and is based in Chinese medicine principles. Movement Cupping, also described as decompression massage, can go four inches into the body and the effects are deeper than deep tissue massage, which is why one must have thorough training in these methods and often is performed by acupuncturists,” says Murphey, who charges $75 for a 60-minute cupping service in water. Cupping activates the lymph system, increases local circulation by stimulating blood flow and decompression of local tissues, and promotes local oxygenation allowing the body’s juices (fluids) to be drawn upward, where the toxins can be expelled through the skin via sweat and lymph. It stimulates chemical and cellular repair, thus assisting repair by immune system. “The physical action of ‘sucking’ the tissues upwards into the cup breaks up adhesions and obstructions in the muscle tissue, and also frees up energy blockages (the Chinese would say ‘moves stagnate Chi’) so the energy can flow through and toxins can be drawn out of the body,” adds Murphey. n
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DETOX GUIDE
Weeks uses a one-of-a-kind world-class safe and sanitary pipe-less spa bath for these treatments. “This means there are no pipes containing residual water with the growth of bacteria and fungi. The water itself is also purified, and you may select the Jacuzzi spa bath enhancement of your choice—detoxifying, relaxing, energizing, cellulite or muscle ache relief,” she explains. To make the treatment extra special, a personal spa bath attendant helps clients customize their bath by choosing from a variety of healing herbs, essential oils, mineral salts, clays, muds, seaweeds, or vegan milks (coconut, soy, rice, almond) and flowers. And, depending upon the wishes of the client, the bath attendant may massage the scalp, neck and/or shoulders during the bath as one of his or her duties. “At the end, if the bath is the last or only service being received, we finish off by hydrating the skin with one of our all natural and organic body creams to protect,” Weeks adds.
THE RUSSIAN WAY BEATING THE TOXINS OUT! by Carrie Ann Buckingham
Russians certainly have a funny way of detoxing. They soak oak, eucalyptus or birch branches in hot water, put you in a sauna heated to 190220 degrees, and beat you (okay, it’s more of a light rhythmic tapping than a beating) up and down your body until you say, “uncle.” Then they have you plunge yourself into a cold plunge pool of 35-37 degrees for up to a minute, and voilà, 10 minutes later, toxins are flushed out and circulation is improved. Sounds like torture? It’s actually exhilarating and refreshing. “It’s a more unique experience and from talking to thousands of people who have done it, it’s the most effective and fastest. The
concept of sweating out the toxins is the same, but with platzas you get to a higher temperature faster and detox from the core out, not just on the surface of the skin. There is other detox wrap, massage, or treatment that can do that. And because you feel the benefits immediately and sleep very well that night, people come back for more,” explains Ukraine-born Leon Shparaga, owner of the Russian day spa Voda Spa in West Hollywood, Calif., who has been doing platzas for 20 years. An added bonus is that clients don’t have to lay wrapped up for 30-60 minutes. With a platza, depending on how long they can handle the heat, the treatment lasts only up
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DETOXING
to a maximum of 10 minutes. Here’s how Voda’s platza goes: The client is asked to sit in the hot sauna (banya) for two to four minutes to warm up and then rinse off under the cold shower to cool down. This should be repeated a few times for the body to be ready for the platza. While in the hot sauna, the client lays face-down as the platza technician first waves the oak branches soaked in hot water—which is called venik—over the body to create a warm wind before tapping the body from head to toe with the branches for several passes. The heat of the sauna and rhythm of the tree branches are what release the natural oils into the pores, and the extreme hot/cold temperatures get your blood flowing at a faster rate. Voda offers its platza treatment at a cost of $25 after a $50 admission fee for the use of their facilities, with the occasional super-deals such as platzas for $7 to celebrate the spa’s seven-year anniversary this September. “Approximately 40 percent of people who get a platza end up coming in weekly for them. We have several clients who come in a few times a week. It’s our fastest growing treatment since we opened and our No. 1 treatment. It’s very addictive because you feel great instantly,” says Shparaga. Not many spas offer this treatment, as it requires a sauna hotter than the typical day spa sauna with a heat of at least 200 degrees, ideally 225-250 degrees. Russian Turkish Baths in New York City, N.Y., is one spa that has it. Their Platza Oak Leaf for $40 also uses oak leaves (oak is softer than the other options, eucalyptus or birch). “Some described the platza as ‘Jewish acupuncture,’” says Russian & Turkish Baths general manager Dmitry Shapiro. “It is by far our most popular treatment. Since the treatment is performed in the sauna, customers can’t come just for a platza. They have to pay for admission as well. We don’t require appointments for the platza, so it is usually an impulse buy. And yes, it’s profitable.” n
AYURVEDIC DETOX
by Robert Sachs
In holistic health terms,
AYURVEDIC DETOX TREATMENTS THE RAJ AYURVEDA HEALTH SPA FAIRFIELD, IOWA • Deluxe package (Abhyanga and Shirodhara): Combines the rejuvenating, two therapist oil massage (Abhyanga) with the deep relaxation of Shirodhara to create an hour and a half of pure luxury (90 minutes, $295). AYURVEDA INTEGRATIVE WELLNESS INSTITUTE ROBINSON TOWNSHIP, PA. • Nasya Therapy: A sinus therapy with herbal oil (30 minutes, $65).
While many spas dub the Ayurvedic massages, herbal baths or steams they offer as Pancha Karma, these massage and hydrotherapies create what in Ayurveda is known as Purva (or preparatory) Karma—that is, what comes prior to the five therapies. Indeed these do have detoxifying benefits as they drive toxins into the alimentary canal where they can be eliminated with the above “karmas,” thus deepening the result. In addition, other Ayurvedic treatments such as shirodhara (the pouring of a fine stream of oil onto the middle of the forehead) and netra basti (bathing the eyes in clarified butter) are offered to deepen the detoxification. As holism grows within spas, having Pancha Karma, or adaptations of it, available as a detox option may be yet another way for Ayurveda to bring wisdom and possibilities to the spa and beauty industry. n
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
SPA ON THE BOULEVARD ABINGDON, MD. • Ayurvedic Rejuvenating Face Massage: A combination of face, neck, scalp and ear massage focusing on marma points (45 minutes, $75). STOWEFLAKE MOUNTAIN RESORT & SPA STOWE, VT. • Netra Vasti: Warm ghee bathes and soothes as reservoirs are placed around the eyes (50 minutes/80 minutes, $145/$195).
Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed massage therapist and educator. He is the author of Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World and coauthor with Melanie Sachs of Ayurvedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at DiamondWayAyurveda.com, email him
at ayurveda8@earthlink.net, call him at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291.
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DETOX GUIDE
detoxification can be at every level of our being; cleansing the body of poor diet and lifestyle choices, cleansing the mind of toxic emotions, and cleansing the spirit of what leads to low self esteem and diminished appreciation for life. While a spa setting is considered a place where the focus is on cleansing the body, in the East, mind always precedes body. Thus, when you cleanse the body, there will be a shift in emotions and an opportunity to have the space to assess deeper yearnings. This is why even the simplest detoxification can have a very powerful effect.In Ayurveda, there are cleansing practices that people are encouraged to try for a greater sense of wellness such as nasal cleansing with a neti pot, or cleansing the oral cavity by oil pulling (Sanskrit: gandusha), which consists of swishing pure oil in the mouth. Many oral and sinus problems can be eliminated with these two cleansing procedures. And then there’s the deeper cleansing therapy known as Pancha Karma (in Sanskrit) and Len Nga Therapy (in Tibetan). “Pancha” (or Len) means five. “Karma” (Nga) means action. So there are five cleansing procedures: enemas (to cleanse the large intestine, the “seat” of Vata dosha), purgatives (to cleanse the small intestine, the “seat” of Pitta dosha), emetics (or therapeutic vomiting, to cleanse the stomach, the “seat” of Kapha dosha), nasal treatments (known as nasya, to clear the sinuses and move excess winds of Vata from the head region), and blood cleansing (done by blood letting, but also through the use of herbal formulas to cleanse the blood).
How Spas Are Curing Hangovers by Caroline Canetti
We all know that the spa is the place to relax, be pampered, get glowing skin and ease tired muscles. But going to a spa to cure a hangover? You bet! Rehab hangover treatments for the body, face, and even the heart and soul are perfect additions to your menu as you head into this holiday season. Nitespa in Mar Vista, Calif., is one such spa which has come up with bevy of beauty cures for hangovers, jet lag, holiday indulgences and even emotional drama. “I’ve always been a party girl at heart, and I’ve had my share of hangovers. The first time someone took me to a spa after a night of drinking, I hit the steam room and had a great massage and I thought, ‘Wow. This changed my life and I can go on with my day now.’ So, when I started Nitepsa
I wanted to create treatments that I would like and I wanted to come up with some fun ways to package various detox treatments that cater to the effects of hangovers, but also jetlag, which is similar to a hangover,” says Nitespa owner Julia Lolita Martin. Nitespa’s Hangover Cures menu includes the Hangover Helper (45 minutes, $75) featuring pressure point detox for the feet and scalp, a neck and shoulder rub, and a detoxifying elixir. “The scalp massage is the No. 1 hangover treatment. In just 20 minutes, you feel so much better,” she says. The Hangover Makeover (45 minutes, $85) takes it one step further by including a makeup application after a facial designed to target the morning-after problem areas of baggy eyes, dark circles, red patches,
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photos: Shutterstock.com
DETOX GUIDE
SPA REHAB
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
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DETOX GUIDE
Koskas says The Rehab Wrap is one of the and/or dry skin. “The Hangover Makeover is our spa’s most popular treatments, especially as climost popular one. We see clients come in for ents think of New Year’s resolutions. “It’s great it when they have back-to-back parties around to do after any holiday weekend where food the holidays,” she says. and alcohol is involved, where you overindulged One of Nitespa’s most unique offerings on and really need to detox your system. While it’s their Hangover Menu is the one for an emotional not a weight loss treatment, it is a great way to hangover—the Tea and Sympathy treatment (60 prep your body for that New Year’s resolution minutes, $125). It features a cooling mask for the diet,” she says. puffy eyes, a mini-facial, a basic manicure and a In New York, face to face nyc’s most poprelaxing foot soak and foot massage accompaular service is its Betty Ford nied by a cup of calming tea, Treatment (135 minutes, and as they cutely describe $300), described as: “One on their website, “an undertoo many cocktails? Bloated? standing attendant to listen It’s great to do after any holiPooped out at parties? This to your sob story.” “This is great for someone who just day weekend where food and 12-step program is designed to energize and detoxify your went through a breakup or is alcohol is involved, where body. Treatment begins with a going through a rough time. you overindulged and really 45-minute lymphatic drainage We had one client who came need to detox your system. to recharge the immune sysin after a breakup and bonded tem. Your enjoyment continues with the therapist here that While it’s not a weight loss with a 15-minute scalp and hair seven years later they are still treatment, it is a great way treatment. While you’re defriends,” says Martin. to prep your body for that toxifying under the wraps, our Since these treatments Freshman Facial is applied.” are such a staple of the spa, New Year’s resolution diet, “The Betty Ford Treatment Martin has a separate drop is the most sought out after a down tab for Hangover Cures, big celebration including wedwhich bodes well for coming dings or big birthday marks which is when folks up high in Google searches. “I think having [the tent to overdo it with alcohol beyond tasting. It’s tab on the website] does help [with SEO]. We very common in June during wedding season, were recently in a Japanese magazine about Valentine’s Day, and for sure, December. I start hangover cures and they found us through the promoting it as early as mid-November as that tab,” she notes. is when people start to get excited about the The Lounge Spa in Culver City, Calif., also upcoming holiday season and once the season caters to their clients in need of some rescue starts, I promote it at its strongest on social media, detox with their Rehab Wrap (50 minutes, $70). in-house posters, and to our newsletter subscribThe treatment starts with a stimulating full body ers—no sugar or red wine is left behind,” says dry brush exfoliation followed by a heated full face to face owner Enrique Ramirez. body seaweed wrap application with green tea, It’s easy for spas to take their existing detox iodine, horsetail and marine extracts to stimutreatments and turn them into “hangover” treatlate circulation and eliminate toxins. A pepperments to package up nicely for the holiday seamint scalp massage and a cup of detox tea are son. “A clever title and description that focuses included, and clients get to take home the dry on the effects of hangovers or jet lag (especially body brush used on them. “We actually have since everyone travels around the holidays) is a them leave the spa with the seaweed gel product fun way to promote these types of treatments,” still on their skin because the longer you leave it adds Martin. n on, the better it works to detox the body,” says The Lounge Spa owner Alice Koskas.
by Alex Koo Murray
Some people might approach detox with a bit of apprehension; not knowing how to go about it and where to do it can even put a halt to this common New Year resolution. Yet the idea of ridding their body of toxins at a spa makes it that much more reassuring to those who associate the location with some well deserved pampering. While a single detox treat is always an option, adding some detox packages can turn your business into the go-to place for wellness, indulgence and purification. Find out why detox is a spa must today, what are the essential elements of a detox program and get some tips to get your own packages ready to go.
“People want to look and feel better but they don’t really know where to search, so their first line of defense is to go to a spa,” says Lisa Jendza, owner of The New You Body Wraps & Wellness Spa, Utica, Mich. “It’s the responsibility of the spa owner to become very educated at what is happening with what the thousands of registered chemicals [in the United States] are doing to our body.” Melissa Stone Santangelo, owner of Balance Studio Spa, Felton, Calif., concurs. “A spa can be a place to go get pampered but can also be a healing place,” she says. “When you cater to both, you’re going to have a bigger clientele that you can serve better.”
Caring For Clients’ Health
Detox Essentials
If spa and salon practitioners are caretakers at heart, the incorporation and creation of treatments and packages that cater to their clients’ health then becomes a natural segue. At a time when pollution and diseases that are associated with toxins are a big concern, purifying the body and eliminating “poisonous” substances becomes a sensible and urgent matter for which spas and salons can provide assistance.
Nutrition, detox experts agree, is an essential component of detox, as 70 percent of the body’s immune system is located in the gut. As such, intestinal health is imperative on the road to “recovery,” or rather removing toxins from the body. The majority of spas that are dedicated to detox or are renowned for their solid detox programs and packages devote a great portion of their services to dieting, juice fasting and healthy cooking.
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photos: Shutterstock.com
DETOX GUIDE
DETOX QUICKLY Create a Speedy Detox Package
The Body in Balance Retreat—a seven-day detox package—at the Red Mountain Resort in Ivins, Utah, includes three daily anti-inflammatory meals, detoxifying smoothies and cooking presentations. During the Three Month Maintenance Program at The New You Body Wraps & Wellness Spa, customers go through a 10-day raw juice fast, receive cooking classes and recipes. Balance Studio Spa’s detox programs put customers on a seven-day juice cleanse and solid raw fruits and vegetables. As far as treatments, detox favorites include lymphatic drainage per Myrna Beardshear, spa director at the Red Mountain Resort, as well as wraps, saunas and massages, according to Jendza and Santangelo. Their reasoning: these treatments remove waste products from the body and sweat toxins out.
Detox packaging
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
While detox packages that span a few days may allow for more thorough cleansing, a half day program might be just what clients new to the idea of detox, or those looking for a quick fix might be looking for. “For those new to the process, a half-day or full day at the spa may be a good warm up to a more thorough detoxification,” says Beardshear. “Two of the recommended services would be: lymphatic drainage, boosts immunity and helps move cellular debris and waste products toward elimination; and warm marine mud or seaweed wrap, the natural nutrients in both seaweed and mineral-rich clays stimulate circulation and help draw out cellular impurities, replacing them with important vitamins and minerals such as potassium and iodine.” Santangelo advises day spas to combine a facial, body treatment and infrared sauna. “The sweating and body treatments combined make a great high end package,” she says. She recommends going for a body wrap, adding, “it feels more like a spa treatment, people think of detox as harsh, but body wraps are gentle, you feel pampered.” Jendza suggests enrolling the help of a health coach who would guide clients in ridding their kitchens of “bad” foods before preparing a healthy lunch with them. Add to that a wrap that would include a facial and you have a good few hours booked. Detox juices à la carte can also be added as healthy refreshments in between treatments. Jendza, Santangelo and Beardshear note that detox packages can double as weight loss packages, which are sure to spike the interest of more people.
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DETOX GUIDE
In order to create her packages, Jendza chose to focus on heat wraps with lymphatic drainage, mineral body wraps and sauna visits, treatments she says she chose after doing extensive readings on detox. Her 10 Day Detox, which also includes support, recipes and the use of fitness equipment, runs $495, a price she says she came to by calculating the cost for treatments and adding about $100-$150. Santangelo created her six week Balance Basic Program—which includes weekly hypnotherapy, an aloe body wrap and motivational calls, twice weekly infrared sauna visits, a seven day juicing plan and recipes—after working as a massage therapist and yoga instructor at a drug rehabilitation facility where she came to embrace the notion of mind and body detox. It was, she says, after reading an article on Edgar Cayce (an American mysticist who has been dubbed by some the father of holistic medicine) that Santangelo was sold on wrap treatments. “I also thought I should add sweating and my search for infrared sauna began,” she says, adding, “my yoga classes consisted of a guided meditation and this is where the hypnotherapy came into play. I actually use it for my own sugar cravings.” For her six week package priced at $1,300, Santangelo says she added total treatment costs and divided it by two. The detox program at the Red Mountain Resort is an all-inclusive package where food, fitness, treatments and other activities are scheduled for guests throughout their stay. Treatments include one lymphatic drainage, one acupuncture session, yoga and water workshops (package starts at $290 per person, per night).
Tips
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• Activated Charcoal Dead Sea Salt caruskincareco.com
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Home-care detox products... 12.
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• Advanced Detoxification Formula glisodinskin.com
10. CBI LABORATORIES • Shio Doro Detoxifying Treatment cbiskincare.com
11. ILIKE
Nettle & Algae Treatment szepelet.com
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13. REGENESIS BY REVITALASH • Detox Hair & Scalp Masque revitalash.com
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9. OM AROMA & CO • detox MANUKA HONEY MASK omaroma.com
10. MIO
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11. OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKINCARE • Harmonized H2O osmosisskincare.com
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LNE & SPA
CHAT
With Jeannine Bourque Spa Supervisor of Ciel Spa at SLS Hotel Beverly Hills by Laetitia Longuefosse
Jeannine Bourque grew up on the beautiful coast of Monterey Bay, Calif., and began her spa career at The Hyatt Regency Monterey Hotel & Spa as a spa concierge, and grew within three years to spa supervisor and assistant spa manager. She was then recruited to the SLS Hotel Beverly Hills by one of her previous spa directors and now loves the challenge of building the Ciel Spa brand!
How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? Stress creeps up on me, so daily mindful practice helps keep it at bay!
What takes most of your time every day? Connecting with my team and our guests as I learned early in my career that the employees are the biggest asset to your business, and happy employees create happy guests!
What would you say are your biggest challenges? The biggest challenge for me is when we are short staffed, and I will have to juggle covering the front desk with the rest of my management responsibilities.
How can you define the concept of your spa? Ciel Spa is like waking up after the best dream… a place of escape where the inner spirit and physical well-being are recharged and enhanced.
Can you give us a breakdown of your spa’s revenue composition? Being an urban hotel spa, the most popular treatments are massage at 50 percent of our spa business. We partner with the Robert Vetica Salon that captures 20 percent, Skin care 16 percent, body treatments at 4 percent and retail at 10 percent.
What are the favorite treatments? Our top five treatments at Ciel Spa Beverly Hills: 1. Ciel Massage, our de-stressing Swedish massage. 2. De-Stress or Detox Bath Ritual followed by a Couples Massage for a highly romantic experience in our famed couple’s suite. 3. Sweet Loving Souls couple’s experience. 4. Ciel Muscle Refresher, our energy boosting deep tissue and sports massage. 5. Ultimate Cleanse Facial to restore, brighten and maintain skin health.
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Demographics, local or travelers? Our spa clientele consist of 60 percent hotel guests and 40 percent local guests. We have many international guests, but also the occasional Angeleno on a staycation! We have a surprisingly large following of male clientele of 40 percent for a spa and 60 percent female clientele.
How do you keep local customers loyal?
Ciel Spa at SLS Hotel Beverly Hills
MARKETING TECHNIQUES
What can you tell us about your marketing techniques? Our spa focuses on in house promotions to bring more awareness to our guests during their stay. We also create attractive packages like our Escape Package that includes one night accommodations, welcome cocktails, two Ciel Massages and dinner for two for $599!
Do you hold special events, promotions based on certain times of the year, and how far in advance do you prepare for these? We partner a year in advance with a well-known brand in beauty to create our Annual Oscar Beauty Lounge to help our guests and celebrities prepare for awards night. Our spa is also well sought out for private events, where we can close the entire spa and salon for a few hours to an entire day.
We personalize our local customers experience. If Ms. K loves our chocolates from the patisserie we’ll have an extra piece waiting for her in her locker. We take note of all of our guest’s preferences, and ensure that they are comfortable and completely satisfied before they leave. Plus a little incentive of 15 percent off 60 or 90 minute services Monday to Thursday and complimentary valet.
HUMAN RESOURCES
How many employees do you have and what are their specialties? At Ciel Spa Beverly Hills we have 15 massage therapists, five estheticians, three nail technicians and five stylists. Our technicians are very intuitive and sincerely take care of our guests. You can tell they are very passionate and skilled about what they do.
How do you train the staff? We are consistently doing quality checks with other department managers visiting the spa, secret shoppers and daily coaching with our team. Monthly we have a department meeting and focus on spa business so the team knows where we are financially and are invested in our goals and team building. Department meetings rotate to different days of the week so
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
all get a chance to attend, and are in the afternoon for 90 minutes.
RETAIL
Where is the retail area located and what is its surface area compared to the rest of the spa? Our retail area is located at our front desk space so our spa concierge can assist with any retail questions or walk-in purchases. It is a fairly small retail space with three large shelving units and one jewelry case.
What are your retail goals? We have a minimum retail goal of 10 percent of service sales for the month.
What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals? I have created a monthly retail challenge for the spa concierge team. They have to sell a minimum of $500 to qualify for the challenge and I award the top three performers with points towards spa services. Technicians receive quarterly reviews, where we will set personal goals around their request rate and retail penetration rate. n
Ciel Spa at SLS Hotel Beverly Hills: • 5,000 square feet. • Six treatment rooms, including one esthetics room, one wet room and one couple’s suite. • One co-ed relaxation lounge. • Men and women’s areas each feature a steam room, shower and personal ized lockers.
lneonline.com • Page 79
MARKETING YOUR SPA T H R O U G H
GIVING
IS CHARITY THE NEW BL ACK? BY KIM MARSHALL
RAISE YOUR HAND
if your spa or product company has ever received a donation request letter. Now keep it up if you feel certain that you’ve understood the real value of donating to charities, and if any donation your spa has made has truly impacted its bottom line. ‘Tis the season of giving! If you’re going to do it any time of the year, this is it. But how can you really know if donating a percentage of your profits is smart business? According to the 2013 Cone Communications Social Impact Study, 91 percent of global consumers are likely to switch to a brand associated with a good cause, given comparable price and quality.
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business | marketing your spa through giving
The Nielsen 2013 Consumers Who Care Study reported that 50 percent of global consumers said they would be willing to reward companies that give back to society by paying more for their goods and services. Research shows that giving back is one of the most important things to millennials, who, at about 78 million strong, are currently the largest generation in the U.S. Ranging in age between 18 and 36, they may be part of your spa’s present target demographic. They certainly will make up your spa’s future demographic and its current employee pool. Surveys continue to show that the social media happy millennials—who have been taught to recycle and use the Internet since kindergarten—prefer to actively engage in a cause campaign by encouraging others to support it, and by participating in fundraising events.
PRICEPOINT TO PRICEPOINT/ BRAND TO BRAND Most treatments at day spas and resorts are priced to appeal to a wealthier demographic. So one key way to get and keep the attention of your ideal target audience is to take part in high-profile charity events. These opportunities have a broad range, from donating spa packages to local private school fundraisers to being part of a star-studded charity gala. Just make sure your brands are compatible. “I wouldn’t donate a stay at the St. Regis Bora Bora and a treatment at its gorgeous CLARINS Spa to a fundraiser for our local dog park,” explains a Los Angeles, Calif., based director of luxury sales for Starwood Hotels, who donates trips worth more than $1.5 million annually. “But I would for the annual fundraiser at the Geffen Theater near UCLA, since the audience of 250 is always power packed with A-list celebs and entertainment execs. Those are the same folks who would vacation at our resorts.”
Everyone loves the lure of celebrity exposure, but if you want to keep it soulful, be clear about what you’re supporting. The Race to Erase MS gala in Los Angeles, Calif.—with headlining performers ranging from the Eagles to Elton John and a silent auction—has funded research to help develop nine different drugs to treat multiple sclerosis. Be ready to really give—a pedicure package typically won’t make the cut. In the past, The Marshall Plan has had clients donate to poker fundraisers for the Clinton Foundation, Ben Affleck’s Eastern Congo Initiative, Matt Damon’s water. org and Hank Azaria’s Determined to Succeed for underprivileged students. Since players have to ante up $10,000 toward the charity to be part of the game, the resort and spa packages they might win have to be over-the-top with a “money can’t buy” kind of experience, with values of at least $10,000 each.
CHOOSING A SIGNATURE CAUSE Peggy Wynne Borgman, owner of Preston Wynne, a luxury spa in Saratoga, Calif., says, “We’ve aligned ourselves with one signature cause, since we feel we can be more impactful if we do.” Borgman served for 10 years on the Board of NEXT DOOR, the local domestic violence agency, a Santa Clara non-profit that provides critical assistance and shelter for victims, and the spa has helped organize fundraisers called “Healing Touch.” With a rallying cry of “hands are for helping, not hurting,” the spa once helped transform a luxury hotel ballroom into a fabulous one-night-only spa featuring the Bay Area’s top massage therapists, estheticians and makeup artists. This “feel good as you do good” Girl’s Night Out featured spa treatments, music, refreshments, chocolate, celebrity-style goodie bags and a grand prize drawing for a private spa party for 12 at Preston Wynne Spa. Guests also had an interactive way to learn more about the charity’s programs
Page 82 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #101 on reader service card
business | marketing your spa through giving
through a “treasure hunt” that qualified them to win great spa prizes. They were also able to shop for products and gift certificates to top spas in the region, with a portion of all proceeds going to the agency. Borgman’s spa strategically makes in kind donations to local causes and premier events that will showcase the spa. By and large, they address the issue with their own Community Investment Program, which helps channel donation requests into activities that mutually benefit the organization and the spa.
HOSTING AN EVENT
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #105 on reader service card
Just five hours across the Pacific, Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort on Maui, Hawaii, shared a similar idea about giving. Sharon Ogawa, who heads up the resort’s award-winning, oceanfront Spa Grande, explains: “Each year, Spa Grande provides
support to two main charities—domestic violence and breast cancer—with a goal of sharing the message of beauty, empowerment and wellness with others. We support the local chapter of Women Helping Women—a charity that provides emergency shelter and programs for victims of domestic violence—through sponsorship of their annual gala night and our popular Diva’s Night Out events, where we invite the ladies of the chapter to come in and have a spa pampering on us.” The spa’s Diva’s Night Out is held for the local market and happens the last Friday of each month, where local ladies get spoiled with chocolate mini treatments, indulge in chocolate desserts and de-stress with a two-hour soak on the hydrotherapy circuit. Ogawa says they also do holiday makeup at their salon for women in the program. Spa Grande also supports the National Breast Cancer Association through their Diva’s events. Each September, they host the “kickoff to Breast Cancer Awareness Month” with a pink-themed fashion show, donations and silent auction benefitting the National Breast Cancer Society, and recognition of survivors, all during the monthly Diva event. “It is a powerful, bonding event about beauty and life,” Ogawa says.
DONATE YOUR SKILLS You can also donate to a cause where you can utilize your skills. Board Certified plastic Surgeon Gary Motykie—who was featured on E TV’s “Dr. 90210”—recently opened Motykie Med Spa. During his two years on the show, Motykie received letters asking if he might donate breast reconstruction to cancer survivors whose insurance did not cover breast reconstructive surgery.
Page 84 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
business | marketing your spa through giving
It moved him to start a charity called The Healing Curve, where he donates reconstructive surgery for breast cancer survivors and victims of trauma, serious illness, previous botched surgery and birth defects.
SERVE THOSE IN NEED Be smart, strategic and soulful here. Some ideas include:
OFFERING PRE-PROM MAKEOVER SERVICES TO LOW INCOME SCHOOLS: Chelsea Clinton reported for NBC about how local businesses donated money to make a prom possible for students whose high school was destroyed in the tornado that hit Joplin, Texas, last year.
CARE FOR THE CAREGIVERS: Once a month, have a special “Give To Those Who Give Day” with special treatment rates for nurses, teachers, firefighters, vets and policemen. Make sure to pitch local television stations to cover the “before and after” shots, especially if the community has just gone through a major event.
REWARD PARTICIPANTS: Are your employees or high profile clients playing in a charity golf tournament or tennis tournament that’s especially meaningful to your community? Donate sports massages!
SUPPORT A MARATHON FOR A 5K RACE BREAST CANCER RESEARCH, AND TAKE THIS INTO CONSIDERATION:
•
Find out how your massage therapists or reflexologists can get involved in pre and post event treatment stations.
•
Find out how many of your clients will be participating. Think about what spa service would help them—do they have knee issues or low back or feet specific problems? Consider rewarding them for participating in the event by offering them a special rate on treatments after the marathon.
REMEMBER THESE CRUCIAL POINTS:
•
Find out exactly how your donation will be showcased. If it’s an elite event that prefers to be subtle with its prize promotions, ask if you can have a tasteful iPad display of your spa and donation. If it’s a live auction item, write—or at least approve—the copy, and make sure their AV system works and will display your images while the auctioneer is reading your prize description.
• Know your market and what matters to them! • Find out what causes your staff care about. Make sure
they’re involved in your charitable giving, and your whole spa will be infused with holiday cheer all year round! n
Kim Marshall is the owner of The Marshall Plan, a communications company with a client roster that has included resorts, spas, destinations, travel and real estate companies, websites, physicians and authors, as well as catalog, product and beauty companies. With a specialty in creating dynamic strategic plans for brands from Bora Bora to the Bellagio, Marshall currently serves on the board of the Green Spa Network. She is a frequent speaker and moderator at spa industry events. For more information, visit themarshallplan.com.
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• Many businesses have groups participating in events like these. A treatment at your spa could be the company’s reward to those who participate as an incentive. This is great publicity for your spa.
All of these actions can help you become your community’s favorite spa, a business that people will want to support with gift certificate purchases and visits when anniversaries or holidays come around.
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
lneonline.com • Page 85
photos: Shutterstock.com
THE 21-DAY RULE CAN BE USED TO DEVELOP POSITIVE HABITS, AS WELL AS BREAK UNFAVORABLE HABITS. USING THE 21-DAY RULE TO BOOST BUSINESS IS ANOTHER WAY TO IMPLEMENT THIS PRACTICE. Page 86 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
21
DAYS
BOOSTING YOUR
BOTTOM LINE
TO HABIT BUILDING BY D A N A E M A R K L A N D
CHANGING A HABIT or creating a new one is more of a science than many might think. American surgeon Dr. Maxwell Maltz coined a system of ideas in the 1960s that he claimed would change one’s self-perception. If this pattern of thinking was practiced consistently over a 21-day period, the ideas would become a routine. In business, our patients have certain expectations of us when they come to our practice, due to the patterns we create for them, starting with the first consultation. Setting goals for our patients is a quintessential aspect of boosting the bottom line, and applying the 21-day habit formation ideology to daily care and professional treatment regimens take that number even higher.
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
lneonline.com • Page 87
business | 21 days to habit forming
THE 21-DAY HABIT FORMING THEORY
We want to develop a partnership with our patients, much like a fitness trainer would with their clientele. than just a monthly visit to see you, their esthetician. Real life scenarios and analogies work well during the first consultation because they compare common practices with something that may not be a part of a daily routine, such as a skin care regimen. A real life scenario to consider using during the consultation is the 60:1 ratio; explain
photos: Shutterstock.com
In 1960, Maltz published the influential book “Psycho-Cybernetics,” in which he professed that a person’s ways of thinking and their beliefs could be radically changed in just 21 days. This manuscript has been used time and time again in a wide variety of fields because of its applicability to self-image and individual success. The 21-day rule can be used to develop positive habits, as well as break unfavorable habits. Using the 21-day rule to boost business is another way to implement this practice. In the skin care industry, introducing patients to daily care products and professional treatments using this approach can help to instill deep-seated habits for healthy skin, while building a
successful partnership for the future at the same time. Daily care products and professional treatments are vital to the ultimate health of your patients’ skin. Getting the products needed to address their individual skin types and condition into their hands is the easy part. The most important, more difficult part is making sure those patients use the daily care products you recommend twice a day. Educating patients during the consultation initiates the discussion around their personal contribution to their own skin health. Ultimately, we want to develop a partnership with our patients, much like a fitness trainer would with their clientele. When it is fully disclosed that they have a responsibility to uphold, the health of their skin becomes more
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business | 21 days to habit forming
to your patient that in a given month of 30 days, they have the opportunity to treat their skin two times per day, which equates to 60 opportunities to improve their skin condition. As the esthetician, you have only one opportunity per month to provide a gentle but powerful professional treatment to help boost their outcomes exponentially. Another analogy to consider is starting a fitness routine. In order to see results from a workout, a healthy diet must be implemented simultaneously and the same applies to skin care. In order to see results from monthly professional treatments, a comprehensive skin care routine must be used twice daily. When you are able to show the level of improvement by incorporating daily care products with a professional treatment, patients are more likely to share the responsibility of improving their skin health with you.
BRINGING THE 21-DAY HABIT FORMING THEORY INTO YOUR CONSULTATION During the consultation, you will determine the patient’s individual needs and concerns, and from there you can develop a trial regimen. Ideally, the amount of product during this trial would last the patient 21 days. This not only helps establish the habit of twice daily use, but also prepares and balances the skin for the patient’s first professional treatment. On the day of the first professional treatment, be sure to discuss the use of the products you recommended for the past 21 days. Find out what the patient liked about the regimen, ask if they noticed improvements in their skin, and determine which of the trial products they would like to purchase in a full size. Without even knowing it, your patient will have completed the 21 days and
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
formed a healthy habit, and you will have established a long-term patient relationship by providing daily care products they’ve become comfortable using. Allowing patients to take a trial run with your daily care products can also minimize the chances of returns and adverse reactions.
In order to see results from monthly professional treatments, a comprehensive skin care routine must be used twice daily.
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business | 21 days to habit forming
Be sure to provide an easy, step-bystep protocol for both the morning and evening regimens. This will aid in ease of use and ultimately show the patient how daily care products can enhance their progress when used twice a day. Finally, take a moment to make notes in the patient’s chart, recording the products purchased and the date when the purchase was made. On average, products will last 6090 days, and if you have already made note of the date of purchase in the patient’s chart, you will have an idea of when they might be running low. Adding this level of service not only helps your bottom line, but keeps the 21-day habit forming theory active in the patient’s skin care regimen. Consistency is key, and the more consistent you can keep your patients’ skin care product usage, the better your outcomes will be.
Take a moment to make notes in the patient’s chart, recording the products purchased and the date when the purchase was made.
Once you have established a relationship with your patient and you have explained the importance of daily care products to support the outcome of a professional treatment, you will begin to see your bottom line grow.
BUILDING HABITS TO BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE Now that you have your patients following the 21-day habit forming theory, it’s time to start applying this same set of ideas to the way you conduct business. If you have yet to create online platforms to advertise your business and engage with current and potential new customers, choose one new source to set up for the next three weeks. Facebook is a great place to start. Every day for the next 21 days, commit to posting something about your business on your new page. Ask your followers a question about skin care, or promote new products and services you’re offering. By the end of that time period, you’ll have a new pattern in place and will no longer need a reminder to update your Facebook page status during the week. Pinpoint a handful of tasks around the office that have fallen by the wayside over previous months. Each day for 21 days, choose one of those tasks to chip away at for half an hour at the end of the business day—it could be
updating your service menus, planning the next open house or updating your website with new photos of your patients and their Before and After photographs. You’ll slowly get into the habit of making small changes on a daily basis, which will add up to significant changes down the road. While no theory is foolproof, try out one new idea or practice for 21 days and encourage your patients to do the same; you’ll know by the end of that three-week period whether it’s a habit you want to continue. And when it comes to skin care, healthy habits are a must. n
Danae Markland is a licensed esthetician and certified medical laser specialist. She has specialized in many aspects of the skin care industry, including corrective esthetics, laser treatment and other therapeutic devices. Currently, in her role as senior director of inside sales and customer support for PCA SKIN®, Markland and her team help medical and esthetic practices grow their businesses with superior products and education. Also an advanced educator, Markland shares her passion for skin health with fellow estheticians and medical professionals at presentations all over the world.
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December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
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noteworthy promotion PCA SKIN® is proud to announce Lauren McDaniel as director of professional marketing. McDaniel started with PCA SKIN in 2010 as product portfolio manager, a role in which she managed product launches and reformulations while maintaining the PCA brand.
877.PCA.SKIN pcaskin.com
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE
BusinessNews
The passing of an entrepreneur
Visit LNEonline.com for more news
Dean Rhoades, 64, founder of the Dean Rhodes Salon in Beverly Hills, Calif., and co-founder of DermaNew Skincare, passed away in his Beverly Hills home. Rhoades was an inventor and innovator, who followed his dream to London at age 20, where he studied at Vidal Sassoon, and was on his way to becoming a world-class hair stylist.
GREEN honor Universal Companies founder Marti Morenings was among the top winners at the recent Green Carpet Spa Sustainability Awards in Santa Fe, N.M. “I am greatly honored to be selected as the recipient of the Visionary Leadership Award for Sustainability [...] I feel it is appropriate that I proudly share it with our dedicated team at Universal Companies.”
800.558.5571 universalcompanies.com
phone boost SpaBooker released a completely upgraded mobile app that makes it easy for spas to manage their business anytime, anywhere. This new app gives merchants 24/7 access to key daily functions, such as calendar management, payment capabilities and customer profiles.
866.966.9798 spa-booker.com
Page 92 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
MOVING UP Bioelements Professional Skin Care announces the promotion of Stephanie Sims to sales and marketing support manager. In her three years at Bioelements, Sims has worked as a liaison between sales and marketing, performing a variety of projects to support the company’s overall initiatives. “I’m looking forward to partnering more with our distributors and helping grow both within the U.S. and internationally,” said Sims.
800.433.6650 bioelements.com/pro
888.962.6264 mioskincare.com
iconic entrepreneur James Yutaka Suzuki, founder of BioTherapeutic, a research and development company that specializes in designing and manufacturing technology for wellness and preventative aging, died at 78. He was an athlete from a young age, who during his service in the US Air Force spearheaded the development of the Cruise Missile. He was an avid automobile enthusiast, and the true definition of an entrepreneur.
LEARNING CENTER Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals opened a new Education and Training Center in Golden, Colo., on September 18. The new 4,500 square foot education center offers courses available on site and live streamed. “Continued education has been at the center of the Rhonda Allison vision and mission from the beginning,” said Shannon Esau, director of sales and education for Rhonda Allison, “and this new center will allow us to expand upon that.”
866.313.7546 rhondaallison.com
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE
Mio Skincare announced that Kym Dianovich has joined the company as corporate account executive. “We are so fortunate to have Kym join our team,” says Jill Dunk, co-founder of Mio Skincare and Mama Mio. “Her experience as an account manager with high profile skin care lines is a huge asset.”
BusinessNews
new additioN
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organic & wellness
Eastern Beauty: The Elusive Maral Root Exposed
THIS POWER PLANT might yet have to gain in
consumption. It is said that during WWII, Russian soldiers would ingest the root for added strength. The root is also said to be among Chinese Olympic athletes’ best kept secrets. If the plant is without a doubt a power adaptogen—a substance that enhances the body’s ability to sustain stressors—its myriad of other benefits makes it a must know in the world of skin care. Used as a topical ingredient or offered as an add-on power juice or smoothie, Maral root might be just that special something you and your clients have been looking for.
High in Vitamin C The wonder vitamin protects skin from UV damage and improves hyperpigmentation—thus brightening, lightening
photos: Shutterstock.com
popularity on this side of the world, but its plethora of skin care benefits are worth keeping an eye on. The Maral root (Rhaponticum carthamoides), also known as Russian leuzea, got its name from Caspian male deers, which, eager to benefit from the stamina it provides them for fighting during mating season, dig them out to feed on them. The tall herbal perennial plant in the Asteracea family (also known as the daisy or sunflower family)—which can reach up to 4 feet tall—grows wild in the mountainous regions of Southern Siberia. Long ago, healers began using the plant and its roots as a medicinal herb while observing the behavior of deers and noticing the increased energy men would have after
by Nathalie Gouillou
Page 94 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
organic & wellness | easter beauty
and boosting the appearance of sun-damaged skin—and strengthens skin’s barrier response. Vitamin C also reduces inflammation and promotes collagen production.
Rich in Antioxidants The Maral root has been shown to contain outstanding free radical fighting flavonoids—once referred to as vitamin P— and natural sterols. Flavonoids act as antioxidants, which rejuvenate and tone skin. Flavonoids are also the antioxidants of choice to support a strong heart, a relevant point if juicing with Maral is an option.
Anti-inflammatory and Anti-microbial Studies have also demonstrated flavonoids’ anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, which can soothe a number of skin conditions. Fighting off inflammations is among the very important steps in skin care; and as Maral root eliminates bacteria, it shows to be a potent ally against acne the
natural way, helping to restore skin’s appearance and potentially avoiding the use of harsh chemicals.
Improves Collagen Production Clinical trials have established that extracts of Maral root increase ATP (adenosine triphosphate) function, which is not only crucial in the production of collagen, but is also considered the energy currency for metabolism. Keep an eye out for the elusive Maral root in skin care treatments, get your own concoctions brewing and power up your clients inside and out with this superfood. n
Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com.
COMING NEXT MONTH LNE & SPA
GUIDE FROM HEAD TO TOE, COCOA! Nothing like this decadent treat to spice up your spa menu right in time for Valentine's Day, and get your clients to indulge in sweets, guilt-free, all year long...
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
lneonline.com • Page 95
photos: Shutterstock.com
IN MODERN SCIENCE, WE HAVE MANAGED TO FIND USEFUL APPLICATIONS OF HONEY IN CHRONIC WOUND MANAGEMENT. HONEY SOOTHES INFLAMED SKIN, WOUNDS AND BURNS, AND EVEN PROVIDES RELIEF TO SKIN FOLLOWING EXTRACTIONS.
Page 96 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2014
OH
HONEY! GIVE YOUR CLIENTS’ SKIN A BUZZ-WORTHY GLOW by Szilvia Hickman
DIP INTO THE HIVE’S BOUNTY
to give your clients gorgeous looking skin from head to toe! Honey has been used as a skin care ingredient dating back to the ancient civilizations of Egypt and Greece. This sweet ingredient was the “bee’s knees” of skin care prior to the introduction of petroleum in skin care products in the late 1950s. What’s old is new again in skin care, as this luscious sweetener is reclaiming the spotlight for its topical applications. And it’s no wonder, this standout natural healing ingredient works well for every skin type, including sensitive and mature. It addresses a wide range of conditions and problems including acne, enlarged pores, rosacea, eczema and hyperpigmentation. Honey keeps skin nourished, healthy and silky smooth. If you’re not already offering honey-based treatments in your spa, it’s time to jump on this sweet bandwagon!
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organic & wellness | oh honey!
SOOTHES AND MOISTURIZES As any esthetician knows, the skin’s ability to stay hydrated is an important factor in its ability to maintain softness, suppleness and elasticity. Honey is renowned for its moisturizing properties. The natural humectant attracts and locks in moisture from the environment—and the skin’s ability to retain moisture affects its appearance, touch and elasticity. Honey also possesses antiseptic and antibacterial properties. In modern science, we have managed to find useful applications of honey in chronic wound management. Honey soothes inflamed skin, wounds and burns, and even provides relief to skin following extractions. Honey’s unique healing properties make it an amazing natural beauty solution for all skin types and many ailments.
ANTI-AGING Studies indicate that honey contains significant natural antioxidant properties, which play a huge role in the revitalization of damaged skin cells, making it a great component of many anti-aging treatments. Honey also contains gluconic acid, a mild alpha hydroxy acid that brightens the complexion, evens out skin tone, and lightens scars and age spots. When consumed, the antioxidants in honey help eliminate free radicals in the body, in addition to being part of the nutrient supply for growth of new tissue and cell regeneration. These precious properties help provide protection from the sun, keeping skin rejuvenated and youthful looking.
Honey is an antiseptic, which prevents the growth of disease causing organisms, such as the bacteria that builds in pores. Additionally, the high sugar concentration and acidic properties impair this bacteria’s ability to replicate. Applying an antiseptic to a fully developed pimple or a whitehead can stop the infection in the pores from getting worse. Honey is also an antimicrobial agent that inhibits the growth of certain bacteria, fighting against blemishes and breakouts, making it an ideal ingredient for acne and rosacea sufferers. The anti-inflammatory qualities of honey also help prevent the swelling and redness that can develop as a result of acne.
EXFOLIATES AND GENTLY CLEANSES Honey is a perfect gentle cleansing solution for all skin types, even very sensitive skin. It also speeds up the natural exfoliation process, removing dead skin cells to bring out a radiant and glowing complexion. In addition to making the complexion look dull and feel rough, dead cells can even
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REDUCES ACNE AND BLEMISHES
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #346 on reader service card
organic & wellness | oh honey!
RAW VERSUS REFINED In order to fully benefit from honey’s amazing skin healing and soothing properties, it’s important to understand that there’s a big difference between raw, organic honey and refined honey. Raw honey is only slightly filtered, and contains essential phytonutrients such as enzymes, vitamins and minerals from the pollens. Organic raw honey is free of chemical, traces of pesticides, herbicides and other toxins used during farming and processing. Raw honey also tends to have a cloudy consistency. Refined honey, on the other hand, is heated in an excessively filtered technology to remove pollens, the Melittin peptide and royal jelly, along with the anti-viral, antibacterial, antifungal and anti-aging phytonutrients. Hence, raw organic honey has the highest potential for wound healing, skin regeneration and neutralizing free radicals that cause aging. As you can see, honey is an amazing natural ingredient that delivers many benefits to the skin. What better way to thank the industrious little honeybees for all their hard work than to offer clients an innovative spa treatment featuring one of nature’s most versatile wonder ingredients? n
SWEETEN UP YOUR CLIENTS WITH THIS SELECTION OF HONEY PRODUCTS! LABORATOIRES REYNARD: • Vanilla Cream Hard Wax • Raspberry Cream Hard Wax
FARMHOUSE FRESH: • Honey Heel Glaze farmhousefreshgoods.com
labreynard.com
AFRICAN BOTANICS: • Intense Skin Repair Balm
CIRCADIA: • Micro-Exfoliating Honey Cleanser
africanbotanics.com
circadia.com
OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKINCARE: • Soothing Herbal Mask Treatment • Hydrating Herb Herbal Mask Treatment
REPÊCHAGE: • Honey and Almond Scrub
osmosisskincare.com
PURE FIJI: • Coconut Milk & Honey line purefiji.com
BIOELEMENTS: • Acne Toner - Acne Treatment Amino Mask bioelements.com/pros
NATURE PURE LABS: • Herbal C Nourisher naturepure.com
EPICUREN: • Cinnamon Vanilla Brown Sugar Scrub epicuren.com
repechage.com
BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY: • Honey Caviar Golden Massage Cream • Honey Rose Massage Cream bellaschneiderbeauty.com
ILIKE: • All masks and gel masks (except Rich Carrot Mask, Ichthammol & Herbs Mask, Grape Stem Cell Solutions Gel Mask, and Hyaluronic Time Erase Complex Gel Mask)
• Spinach and Horsetail Exfoliator • Sulfuric Exfoliator • Rolling Face & Body Exfoliator • Rosehip Exfoliator • Cucumber & Parsley Oxygen Treatment • Hydrating Pumpkin Body Wrap
RHONDA ALLISON: • Pumpkin Rinse • Honey Paprika Mask • Bio Reform 28
szepelet.com
rhondaallison.com
gloprofessional.com
GLŌ THERAPEUTICS: • Glo Minerals Body Wash
Szilvia Hickman is co-owner and senior vice president of Szép Élet, the exclusive distributor of ilike organic skin care. She is also a member of the Green Spa Network Personal Care Product Committee (greenspanetwork.org). For more information on ilike organic skin care products call 888.290.6238 or visit szepelet.com. Hickman can be reached at shickman@szepelet.com.
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photos: Shutterstock.com
cause blemishes by interfering with the secretion of oil from pores. Regular exfoliation keeps pores clean and improves blood circulation. Exfoliation also helps moisturizers and skin care treatments penetrate the skin better.
888.773.9626 farmhousefreshgoods.com
SEA GOODNESS Repêchage’s Hydra Medic Nutritional Supplements are back, and they are now certified 100 percent vegan, organic, gluten free, non-GMO and kosher, says the company. The natural organic spirulina is a microscopic blue green algae, rich in vitamins, minerals, chlorophyll, antioxidants and enzymes.
800.248.7546 repechage.com
glowing results Svelta Luxe Coffee & Raw Sugar Body Scrub leaves the skin silky, supple and invigorated with 100 percent natural, nourishing botanicals, says the company. The scrub features almond oil to soothe the skin, cardamon seed oil to cleanse skin, coffee, olive oil, and organic raw sugar.
855.455.4556 sveltatan.com
THE POWER OF RED Nature Pure Labs’ Age Antidote Complex is a revitalizing age reversing complex that achieves profound effects, says the company. The cream features tomato lycopene that promotes skin immunity and provides anti-inflammatory benefits with its antioxidant carotenoid properties, and wild yam derived Diosgenin that restores cell proliferation.
866.640.7546 naturepure.com
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS
FarmHouse Fresh’s latest body milk are available as travel friendly lotions. The four travel-size companions nourish dry skin with a blend of light, hydrating oils and natural scents, says the company.
Organic & Wellness News
TSA APPROVED
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Let’s Talk
MAKEUP With Kory Keith
Spa Director of the Spa at the Ritz-Carlton Los Angeles, Calif.
Kory Keith’s first introduction to the world of spa and skin care was working at Molton Brown (a British Bath and beauty care brand and store) as a consultant and makeup artist. “I find that most spas are open and accepting of incorporating a makeup element to their skin care strategy once you can show the return on investment. Particularly with mineral makeup, as these makeup lines have a greater focus on the skin care aspect of their product, in addition to the beauty and finish.”
IMPLEMENTING MAKEUP INTO A SPA WHEN DID YOU DECIDE TO IMPLEMENT MAKEUP INTO YOUR SPA? Having makeup was a natural decision when opening The RitzCarlton Spa Los Angeles, four and a half years ago. When our original spa menu was created, Special Event Makeup was a service we wanted to be sure was included. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO IMPLEMENT MAKEUP INTO THE SPA? Our location at L.A. LIVE lends itself to glamorous nights on the town, so it was important to us that all of our clients have the opportunity to feel like a Hollywood star!
WHERE IS YOUR MAKEUP AREA LOCATED? Our makeup stations are very fluid depending on the demand. For example, during the busy awards season we will create up to eight makeup and hair stations within the spa (even converting my office into a salon!). While there is not one “permanent” location, we tend to do the most consistent set-ups in our boutique area. We also offer in-room makeup services for guests. WHY ARE MOST CONSISTENT SET-UPS IN THE BOUTIQUE AREA? There is abundant natural light in our boutique area, as well as the salon, which is very important in creating a flawless look.
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THE SERVICES WHAT KIND OF MAKEUP SERVICES DO YOU OFFER ON THE MENU? Special Event Makeup, which is the complete look ($110, one hour— consultation, face contour, eyes and lips). We also offer our Makeup Application, which focuses on just the features like eyes and lips and is a shorter, more express service ($75, 30 minutes—consultation, with makeup). WHICH SERVICE IS THE MOST POPULAR? The Special Event Makeup.
THE LINE HOW DID YOU SELECT YOUR MAKEUP LINE? We have selected a mineral makeup line that had everything from foundation and primers to application tools to complement and continue the benefits received from our facials and skin care offerings. A line that had mineral based products with SPF protection and that would retail wonderfully! WHAT ARE THE MOST POPULAR RETAIL ITEMS? The pressed powders are incredibly popular, as are the lip glosses and stains, and hydration sprays.
PROMOTION HOW DO YOU PROMOTE YOUR MAKEUP SERVICES? While we do promote makeup application services year-round, we truly highlight these offerings during the Los Angeles award season by featuring our Red Carpet Ready package across all of our marketing platforms—website, PR, social media and onsite collaterals. Makeup services are always included in our seasonal open house events, and we often partner with our makeup line providers for retail opportunities associated with special occasions and holidays, such as Mother’s Day and Breast Cancer Awareness Month.
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
HOW POPULAR ARE YOUR MAKEUP SERVICES? Depending on the season and the occasion, it can be one of our most requested services. Everyone relishes the chance to feel fabulous, it’s our job to take them to the next level! ARE ESTHETICIANS TRAINED TO PROMOTE MAKEUP SERVICES AFTER EACH TREATMENT? Yes we train each esthetician to promote our makeup services after each treatment.
REVENUE COMPOSITION HOW PROFITABLE ARE MAKEUP SERVICES? WHERE DOES MAKEUP RANK IN YOUR SPA REVENUE COMPOSITION? In a spa, massages will always be the most popular request (55 percent of treatment revenue), however, our hair and makeup services do form a large part of our overall revenue (together 13 percent of treatment revenue). The retail component is also very important in helping us to achieve our goals (8 percent of all retail revenue is makeup).
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photos: Shutterstock.com
A STYLE many believe originated in Ancient Egypt, its eye elongating magic puts sexy power into any woman’s gaze.
LOOKING
SHARP The Transcendent Trend of Arrowed Eyes By Shawn Towne
F
rom Sofia Loren to Audrey Hepburn, Amy Winehouse to Gwen Stefani, the trend of arrowed eyes has practically been around for as long as eyeliner! A style many believe originated in Ancient Egypt, its eye elongating magic puts sexy power into any woman’s gaze. This year, on the runways of New York, Milan and Paris, makeup artists highlighted exquisite examples of arrowed eyes with a vivid assortment of different plays on the trend. Rag & Bone showed a sharp, thin wing levitating above the lash line, Atelier Versace showed an ultra-glam Cleopatra look, and Armani Privé made their points fade away into soft smoke. The dominating trend all around was arrows, wings and points. Let’s explore some of these variations and find one that’s perfect for your clients! An important key to creating the winged or arrowed eye is ensuring you have the right tools. This means a high pigment lining product and a brush that makes that product easy to control. Liquid liners have always been popular for creating defined lines, but keep in mind that the thicker the line, the more likely traditional liquid liners are to crack and flake. A popular product that incorporates new long-wear technology is gel eyeliner. With more hydrated formulas that stay in place longer and allow more flexibility in application, they’ve become the top choice of many artists. A good brush, such as an angled brush or a thin liner brush, will also deliver definition. Find a brush that you can lay at the base of the inner lash line and drag outward. Repeat the process until the desired thickness has been achieved. And never stop researching new products and techniques. Check out Style.com, YouTube and even Google images to see what inspiration you can find!
lneonline.com • Page 105
image | looking sharp
thickGLAM The element that makes this look so fun is that the liner elongates the lash line. Shown here with a subtle nude backdrop, it looks beautiful for any occasion. Often used by artists to create a lifted look, the technique is simple. Create a thick line across the top lid and extend it at the end, lifting it slightly. Use liquid, gel or cream-to-powder. Make sure you have a brush with a sharp enough edge to give you a fine point at the end.
Reminiscent of the 80s, this edgy look uses a hard-edged black line that extends out from the corner of the eye to a fine point. Great for a sexy cocktail dress or leather jacket and jeans. Start from the inner corner of the eye and pull the liner across the lash line, straight out toward the temples. This elongates the outer corners of the eyes. Use a liquid or a gel but make sure to have a good brush with a fine point to apply it. This look requires skill, so take your time.
Page 106 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2014
photos: Shutterstock.com
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Cleopatra This high glamour Egyptian inspired look gives a dramatic appearance, shown here with a vivid purple shimmer. The look can be fun to wear, but using the right products to create it is key. Start with a clean lid and use long wear products to ensure minimal creasing and transfer. Apply a black gel liner with a camouflage brush all over the lid, leaving a sharp unblended line of demarcation at the top. Next, color over the liner with a luminous shadow in a color of your choice. A cream shadow or eye gloss can give even more saturation and longevity. Keep swabs with makeup remover handy to sharpen the edges.
Here’s a nice variation on the cat eye. With a strong line that gives a high tech, modern feeling, the shadow starts dark and then fades away to a subtle point. This look is beautiful with formal and evening wear. It also looks amazing with light white or opalescent shimmer as a backdrop. Start with a dark saturating eye shadow and create a thick line from the lashes to just below the brow bone. Pull it past the eye or wing it out, but blend it down to nothing at the end. Now echo the shadow underneath the outer corner to meet the top.
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photos: Shutterstock.com
fadeAWAY
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #294 on reader service card
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image | looking sharp
doeEYES A throwback to 50s and 60s Hollywood, this technique is still commonly used on red carpets and runways all over the world. Using a liquid or gel liner, line the top and lower lash with a thin defined black line. At the outer corner, thicken the line and bend it away from the lashes to create a lift at the edge of the eye. For more dramatic impact, fill in the corner under the line with white pencil or shadow, and line the inner rim of the eye with white.
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Located in Mount Laurel, New Jersey
T
Shawn Towne, the global educator of jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®, has worked as a makeup artist for more than 20 years. His talent has been featured in fashion magazines, runway shows, television commercials and feature films. Towne has worked with celebrities such as Mariel Hemingway, Eartha Kitt and Luke Wilson. He worked with the jane iredale team on the 2008 Fashion Week runway shows, and most recently taught classes in the Far East.
beauinstitute.com Beau Institute founder Rose Marie Beauchemin
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Discover an
he exciting thing about being a makeup professional is that we get to set the trends. The longer we stay in the business of beauty, the more we notice what people around us are wearing. Most fashion designers get their inspiration from the streets. Makeup trends often start in the same way. Renowned VOGUE editor Diana Vreeland was once quoted saying, “Style—all who have it share one thing: originality.” So if you see an interesting idea that looks too avant-garde to pull off, soften it or create a variation that works better for your clients. Who knows? You might start a trend of your own! n
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NATURAL BRUSHES ARE TYPICALLY MADE OF SABLE, SQUIRREL, GOAT OR A COMBINATION OF ALL. YOU’LL QUICKLY FIND OUT THAT THESE NATURAL BRUSHES COME AT A HIGH COST, AS NATURAL HAIR TENDS TO GET SOFTER WITH USE.
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TOOLS OF THE
TRADE Choosing The Best Makeup Brush For Any Look by Olivia Smalley
With so many different makeup brushes and tools in the marketplace, not to mention an abundance of marketing gimmicks, deciding on the correct tools for various purposes can be very confusing. This is true not only for the consumer but also for makeup artists. The different shapes and hair types for makeup brushes create a wide variety of makeup looks. Let’s take a deeper look into these forms and the techniques that apply best to each texture to eliminate the confusion. An important point to keep in mind is that when it comes to makeup brushes, expense doesn’t always mean quality.
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image | tools of the trade
NATURAL BRUSHES While natural brushes are fantastic, they’re not the only good option. Natural brushes are typically made of sable, squirrel, goat or a combination of all. You’ll quickly find out that these natural brushes come at a high cost, as natural hair tends to get softer with use. It contains mostly virgin hair, which has tapered ends to stay soft on skin. Natural hair is best for applying powder and blush and contouring. Each brush type works best with specific products and targeted areas of the face.
POWDER: LARGE FLUFFY BRUSH Goat brushes are the most commonly used natural brushes, and provide a soft silky texture. The goat hair distributes flawlessly and creates luster on the face.
TIP: Gently use direct circular motion when applying powder to face. Swiping powder onto the face only dusts the product off the face.
BRONZING/CHEEKS: MEDIUM OR LARGE BRUSH
TIP: When applying bronzer to cheeks, load your brush and shake away any excess product before applying to face. A gentle circular motion is advised here as well.
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Pony hair is much like goat hair, but the hair fibers are much more fine, which is great for bronzing and adding color to cheeks. These rounded fibers ensure a streak free finish.
image | tools of the trade
EYES: BLENDING BRUSH Known for lasting a lifetime, sable brushes are the crème de la crème. Originally from Russia, these mink brushes come in Kolinksky, red sable and sable. These brushes are great at picking up heavy pigments and blend effortlessly.
TIP: Holding the brush at a slight angle helps with blending, as opposed to directly dabbing the pigment onto the crease. For a smokey eye, going from lighter to gradually darker ensures a perfect blend.
CONTOURING BRUSH: ANGLED BRUSH A firmer texture does well for contouring, like squirrel hair. One swipe of the brush diagonally downward from the cheekbone in one fluid motion achieves a flawless application.
TIP: Use a lighter color bronzer/contour color and apply to hallows of cheeks. Then pinch the brush and add a darker color to create a more dramatic shadow. Two different looks are created with just one brush.
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SYNTHETIC BRUSHES Synthetic brushes are booming in the industry right now, some claiming to be able to create a flawless “airbrushed complexion.” Man-made, synthetic bristles are usually either nylon or polyester filaments. They’re easier to keep clean than natural hairbrushes because the filaments don’t trap or absorb pigments. Most synthetic-fiber brushes are hypo-allergenic, and are great for those with animal allergies. Often, synthetic filaments are dyed and baked to make them softer and more absorbent. They are less prone to damage from makeup and solvents. Synthetic brushes are best to cover up dark circles or imperfections. They are suited well to foundations, concealers, eyeliner and buffing, and can be used either wet or dried.
LIQUID FOUNDATION:
SYNTHETIC FLAT FOUNDATION BRUSH
The bristles are tightly packed with a tapered tip for fluid application. This creates layers in the foundation and ensures full, unblemished coverage. These were designed for multiple uses including blending, buffing and contouring. This staple brush offers dense, flat, synthetic bristles that allow you to easily blend foundation, blush or bronzer to the face and body.
TIP: For a more dewy finish, wet the brush first in warm water and firmly squeeze the excess into a towel or tissue; this helps achieve a more even appearance. This brush may also be used to contour cheekbones as well as buff off excess powder.
FULL COVERAGE LIQUID FOUNDATION: SYNTHETIC FOUNDATION STIPPLING BRUSH The flat surface of the brush is created to stipple the foundation in a dabbing motion all over the face. The flat-topped, duo fiber synthetic bristles create high-definition results with powder or liquid foundation, blush, bronzer and highlighter.
TIP: Be sure to seal the foundation with a large fluffy brush and tap out excess products.
EYEBROWS/NOSE/ DETAILED AREAS: The pointed contour brush is ideal for applying cream or liquid concealer and foundation. The tapered, synthetic bristles are soft, yet firm to easily distribute and blend products into all crevices of the face. The size of the tapered tip is ideal for reaching smaller areas and smudging liquid and cream-based products.
TIP: For a very detailed eyebrow, fill in eyebrows and clean up the area with very minimal concealer and add more if necessary.
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SYNTHETIC POINTED CONTOUR BRUSH
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EYELIDS: SYNTHETIC SHADOW BRUSH A brush with soft, rounded synthetic bristles is the best choice for eyelids. Whether you want to create a wash of sheer color or a color that creates an intense look, this brush can do it all.
TIP: This brush can also be used to apply highlighter to the cheekbones.
LIPS: SYNTHETIC LIP BRUSH A synthetic lip brush ensures even application, and is extremely easy to clean. The brush is made with short, soft fibers for smooth application.
TIP: Pair your lipstick with a lip liner. This warrants any bleeding of color and long lasting payout.
REMOVING FALLOUT EYE SHADOW: SYNTHETIC FAN BRUSH Ideal for removing eye makeup, fallout or excess powder on all areas of the face, the synthetic fan brush can also be used to lightly sweep on setting powder.
TIP: The fan brush can also create a soft focus effect and
Keep the following tips in mind: The longer the bristle, the softer the application and coverage. The wider the brush, the more spread and coverage. For a finer application, use a thinner brush. Pricey makeup brushes are not always the best option, but depending on desired results, some are worth the splurge. The right makeup brush will always refine your client’s look! n
Olivia Smalley is the founder and owner of OMG! Artistry, a freelance hair and makeup company. Smalley’s talents have been featured in the Florida Panthers Ice Dancers Calendar and Fort Lauderdale Fashion Week. She can be reached at info@omgartistry.com.
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diminish the look of fine lines and imperfections. Use this brush to apply a setting powder or mineral veil.
Skin knows. From the purest ingredients, to our innovative formulations, quality is something the skin can feel. Clients indulge in it. Therapists prefer it.
• Paraben Free • No Nut Oils • Unscented • All Natural
Call for free samples • 800.253.6466 • www.bonvital.com
Performance Health®, Bon Vital®, Biofreeze®, Cramer®, TheraBand™, Thera°Pearl® , Pedigenix®, Prossage® and trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its subsidiaries and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2014 Performance Health, LLC. All rights reserved.
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NATURAL LOOKING
PERMANENT
MAKEUP THE NEW PROFIT CENTER by Rose Marie Beauchemin
IF THE WOMAN SEATED BESIDE YOU ON THE AIRPLANE, looking fresh and natural, was wearing permanent makeup, would you be able to tell? Probably not! Permanent makeup can now be done to look so incredibly natural that it’s not detected, even in close proximity. For those who have it, it’s confidence building, liberating and life changing. Permanent makeup has become mainstream, and has the potential to be an enormous profit center for your business.
image | natural looking permanent makeup
THE MOST POPULAR TREATMENTS ARE: PERMANENT EYEBROWS The demand for permanent eyebrows has never been greater, and it’s no surprise. The correct eyebrow design can take years off a woman’s face. As women mature, eyebrows thin out and even disappear. This makes permanent eyebrows a much-needed and profitable service to provide in your business, as full, natural eyebrows are in vogue. Hair simulation and a soft, powdery effect using feathering (a combination of strokes and powder) are the most commonly selected procedures. For permanent makeup, darker colors last longer than lighter colors. So eyebrow colors that are appropriate for lighter skin types would likely need a color refresher each year, while the darkest colors can last up to five years. Lush eyelashes have become a major focus. They create a natural frame around the eye, one that is often not naturally present. To create the appearance of this natural frame, one can elect to have permanent lash enhancement. This procedure places color between the eyelashes, creating a soft and natural frame. It’s great for those who wear little eye makeup but also provides a terrific base to add to eye makeup. Fair blondes benefit profoundly from lash enhancement since their eyelashes are generally light. Also, women who have makeup allergies or wear eyeglasses are good candidates since both a lack of makeup and the presence of glasses fade the color of the eyes. Lighter shades last one to three years, and darker colors last two to five years.
GLOSS AND GO LIPS What woman wouldn’t like a soft, natural lip color to remain when she places her napkin down? Having this hint of color and definition on her lips, where
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EYELASH ENHANCEMENT
TRUSTED FOR INNOVATION, QUALITY AND DESIGN THE NEW
DELIVERS.
CONTINUING THE EVOLUTION OF SKIN RESURFACING, ALTAIR INSTRUMENTS IS PROUD TO INTRODUCE THE NEXT GENERATION IN CRYSTAL FREE MICRODERMABRASION. USING THE HYDROPLUS TECHNIQUE COMBINES DRY EXFOLIATION FOLLOWED BY SERUM INFUSION TO CREATE THE MOST EFFECTIVE SKIN REJUVENATION TREATMENT.
altairinstruments.com
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she only has to add a clear or tinted gloss, is a thrill. Lips denote youth, and it doesn’t take an extreme plumping to make your client look younger. Color is a powerful medium; it’s more than enough to make a difference when combined with re-establishing the perimeters of the vermillion boarder. Lips may require color refreshing in two to four years; the darker the color, the longer it tends to last.
PERMANENT MAKEUP SELECTIONS BY SKIN TYPE/ETHNICITY • Fair complexions (Fitzpatrick 1) don’t have a lot of melanin. This skin tone belongs to natural blondes, sandy blondes or natural redheads. Some visuals include Nicole Kidman, Emma Stone and Cate Blanchette. A light, golden taupe is best suited for this skin type. Gray tones should be avoided. Hair simulation should be done in lighter pigments, and may require annual color refreshing. Medium skin tones (Fitzpatrick 2 and 3) encompass a broad spectrum of nationalities. This may include Italians, Native Americans, Asians, Indians and Latinos. Some celebrity visuals include Cher, Shakira, Jennifer Aniston and Lucy Liu. Medium skin tones require a warming shade to neutralize and prevent those unwanted gray tones, allowing the eyebrows to heal. Hair simulation is quite beautiful in these complexions, and a powdery finish works well when there’s enough hair present. Medium pigment colors may require color refreshing in 18 to 24 months.
•
Asian complexions (Fitzpatrick 2 to 3, and occasionally 4) can be tattooed with a medium taupe via a soft hair simulation. Solid, dark eyebrows should be avoided on these complexions. Although their eyebrow hairs may be dark, the Asian woman’s eyebrows are generally sparse. Solid eyebrows will appear harsh and unnatural.
• Darker complexions (Fitzpatrick 4) are characteristic of individuals with Indian, Hispanic, Polynesian, black or a blend of many ethnicities. Some visual examples include Jessica Alba, Eva Mendes and Halle Berry. With this degree of color in their skin, warming is critical. Since a slightly darker brown is needed for their eyebrows and darker complexion, gray or blue tones can easily become dominant. A dark but warm brown pigment works well.
• Deepest complexions (Fitzpatrick 5 ) require a very dark, warm brown to prevent gray tones in the healed result. Some visuals are: Jennifer
Hudson, Whoopi Goldberg and Oprah. Preventing ashy or blue tones may be challenging in this complexion. If straight black is used, blue eyebrows will be a definite. A dark black/brown with a lot of warmth will prevent a result of bluish eyebrows. Darker shades may require a color refreshing in 18 to 24 months.
• Native American (Fitzpatrick ranges from 2 to 4) clients’ brows can heal in cool or grayish tones. This is true even if their skin tone is on the fair side. To prevent this, a warm shade such as a yellow or orange can be added to the formula.
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•
image | natural looking permanent makeup
POTENTIAL AFTER EFFECTS Eyebrows and eyelashes may show little after effect. Eyebrows rarely produce any bruising. Lips may show slight to moderate swelling, depending on the amount of work performed. Fewer effects are seen for a lip liner than that of a full lip color. If bruising does occur on lips, it’s typically minor and subsides within a few days, during which there is some tenderness. Let your client know that the color may be much darker than they may expect for the first six to 10 days. To stay aware of any unexpected side effects, professional permanent cosmetic technicians should always re-
quire that clients fill out a history profile to assess different factors that may contribute to their experience after the tattooing procedure has been completed.
LONGEVITY OF PERMANENT MAKEUP The degree of “permanency” of permanent makeup varies with each individual. Color can fade due to many factors, including over-exposure to the sun, a person’s own body chemistry, sebaceous activity, cellular turnover, use of sunscreen and other active products, and the degree of care taken to maintain the work. Skin treatments and certain types of medications can also adversely impact color integrity.
SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS Permanent cosmetics should be completely safe when proper sterilization and disinfection guidelines are practiced. Here are some of the guidelines recommended by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA):
• Every needle used should be new and sterile for each client. • Disposable sterilized (one-time use) machine parts should be purchased by the artist, and disposed of in a sharps container immediately after the procedure.
• Personal protection equipment such as disposable one-time use aprons and gloves should be new for each client and changed during the procedure when needed.
• Disposable one-time use chair/bed coverings should be new for each client.
ALLERGY PRECAUTIONS To avoid allergic reactions, use pigments that are formulated from powders taken from the FDA’s Food Drug and Cosmetic (FD&C) listings. The Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP) considers pigments formulated from the FD&C listing the safest origin of pigment powders for permanent cosmetic pigment formulations. SPCP pigment suppliers are required to list the ingredients on their pigment labels.
IS PERMANENT MAKEUP THE RIGHT CAREER FOR YOU? Many skin and nail professionals are choosing to train in permanent cosmetics, and it is easy to understand w h y. T h e re ’s a n a b u n d a n c e o f employment opportunities for professionals in this rapidly growing field. Success in this industry is directly December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
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CHOOSING A PARTNER Those looking to incorporate permanent makeup into their businesses should look for a highly reputable line that includes a minimum of 100 hours of training. The training institute should offer continuing support upon completion of the class. Speak to the institute about their experience, and ask for referrals. The line should have gamma sterile, quality pigments that are easy to use and predictable. Beware of dangerous scams such as supplies with counterfeit needles that are imprinted with EO sterilization letters but have no spore strip.
COST OF SERVICES The average cost per procedure averages $400 to $800, or $150 to $250 an
hour for advanced work. Procedures tend to last from one to two hours. This fee generally includes one touch up visit about four to six weeks after the initial treatment. Future touch ups may range from $150 to full price of the initial treatment, depending on the length of time between visits. n
Rose Marie Beauchemin, owner and director of education for the Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics, has been practicing permanent makeup for 25 years. She brings her experience and knowledge of makeup artistry and color theory into each training program. Her training institute is known globally for its fine training, pigments and supplies, as well as beautiful procedures. Beau’s Face Inks line of pigments is custom formulated to achieve the most natural and lasting effects. To learn more, go to beauinstitute.com, call 888.763.2328 or email rosemarie@beauinstitute.com.
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related to the quality and amount of training you receive. If you are prepared to make the time and financial investment in your future, this can be a great skill to add to your business portfolio.
radiant skin Lady Burd’s Highlighter in peach is a new shade to brighten skin, says the company. This highlighter erases the appearance of darkness and shadows. Application and touch ups are made simple with the soft brush pen applicator.
800.345.3448 ladyburd.com
ALPHABET WONDER
LASH out CilsFrance’s formaldehyde-free Adecil is a complete range of top quality eyelash adhesives, says the company. Prostar and Adecil Pure provide different levels of adhesive for a variety of eyelash application techniques.
310.986.0123 cilsfrance.net
lux extensions NovaLash launches novaMinx mix, its new line of eyelash extensions. These soft, silky lashes resemble real mink fur and boast all the benefits of real minx lashes, says the company.
866.430.1261 novalash.com
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS
877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com
Image News
Osmosis Colour launches CC Cream with light lifting effects and true tone technologies paired with Japanese pepper extract to provide skin tightening correcting and brightening benefits, says the company. Available in four shades (ivory, warm, neutral and mocha), the cream reduces dark spots and minimizes pores while offering anti-wrinkle and elasticity support.
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Calendar of Events WEST • CENTRAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES
WEST
online education
CUSTOMIZING DAILY CARE REGIMENS by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
DECEMBER 14 PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
ongoing
DIMINISHING DEEP WRINKLING by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
CENTRAL
A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
DECEMBER 7 PCA ADVANTAGE by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
ADDRESSING ADOLESCENT ACNE by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
PCA Advantage by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
ALTERNATE THERAPIES by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
DECEMBER 8 PCA ADVANTAGE by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
AN IN-DEPTH LOOK AT MELASMA by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
EVENING POSTINFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses EXPLORING INTRINSIC & EXTRINSIC AGING by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-course HYDROPEPTIDE PRODUCT TRAINING WEBINAR by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. hydropeptide.com/webinars
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IDENTIFYING & TREATING PAPULOPUSTULAR ROSACEA by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses INVESTIGATING IMPAIRED BARRIER FUNCTION by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
LASER AND LIGHT THERAPY by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
MEDICAL ESTHETICS by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
PRODUCT FORMULATIONS AS A WHOLE
THE DAILY CARE PRODUCT OVERVIEW
by PCA Skin. Online Course pcaskin.com/online-courses
by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
ROSACEA: SIGNS, SYMPTOMS AND SUBTYPES by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
SCLERODERMA by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
SHEDDING LIGHT ON UV-INDUCED HYPERPIGMENTATION by PCA Skin. Online Course pcaskin.com/online-courses
SIMPLE STEPS TO A BOOMING BUSINESS
NATURALASH LEVEL 1 ONLINE CERTIFICATION CLASS
by PCA Skin. Online Course pcaskin.com/online-courses
by NaturaLash. Online Course. 800.644.1297. naturalash.com/240.html
TARGETING ADULT ACNE
December 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
THE PROFESSIONAL PRODUCT OVERVIEW by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
TREATING ACNE IN SKIN OF COLOR by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
TRIGGERS AND TREATMENT OF ATOPIC DERMATITIS by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities
by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses
lneonline.com • Page 129
ADVERTISERS’ INDEX Page Number
Reader Service No.
107............. Aesthetic Ambassadors........................................... aestheticamb.com........................................................... 345 123............. Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 110............. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 8................. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 21............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................ 140 57............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................ 335 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 119............. Bon Vital.................................................................. bonvital.com.................................................................. 265 91............... Christina USA.......................................................... christina-usa.com........................................................... 107 126............. Cils France.............................................................. cilsfrance.net.................................................................. 131 83............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... circadia.com................................................................... 101 111............. CosmoBelleza: International Aesthetic Salon......... cosmobelleza.com......................................................... 132............. Dermapen............................................................... dermapenworld.com...................................................... 136 30............... Dr. Jeff..................................................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... .248 2,3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro................................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 39............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 31............... HydraFacial............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 49............... HydroPeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 ................... The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa: 34,35.......... Miami 2015............................................................. miami.skincareshows.com................................................ 76,77.......... Dallas 2015............................................................. dallas.skincareshows.com................................................ 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................ladyburd.com................................................................. 119 109............. Le Mieux.......................................................................lemieuxcosmetics.com................................................... 294 45............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................lucrece.com.................................................................... .263 9................. PCA Skin.......................................................................pcaskin.com................................................................... 110 53............... RapidLash.....................................................................rapidlash.com................................................................. 224 117............. Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 84............... Rena Levi........................................................................renaleviskincare.com...................................................... 105 99............... Revitalash......................................................................revitalash.com................................................................ 346 17............... Shira Esthetics......................................................... shiraesthetics.com.......................................................... 249 5................. UltraLuxe................................................................. ultraluxeskincare.com..................................................... 116 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. 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Fractional Rejuvenation for a Fraction of the Cost without the pain, heat, cost and downtime of fractional lasers.
Your clients and potential customers are asking for Dermapen Treatments more than all other brands put together... make sure you have what they want. Toll Free: (844)4-Dermapen I (844)433 7627 info@dermapenworld.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #136 on reader service card