LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals April 2018
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FROM THE
EDITOR
Bio-Therapeutic
You and I both know that being an esthetician means
TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED
SKIN CARE
more than just cleansing and caring for our clients’ skin. We are oftentimes their friend, confidant, and shoulder to lean on. As an esthetician, you have the unique ability to peek into your clients’ lives through their skin; you can see stress, fatigue, and the imprint of expressions of joy, sadness and excitement. Reading your client’s skin is an important part of your comprehensive consultation. This month, brush up on your ability to read your client’s skin through the lens of their gut and nutritional health. Studies have proven time and time again that what we consume does in fact have an effect on the condition of our skin. This month’s special guide: Gut & Skin explores the connection between your client’s digestive health and their tendency to experience acne, rosacea, inflammation and an array of skin conditions. We’ve gathered experts from the nutritional esthetics community to share their insight on how to see your client’s skin with an inner beauty perspective. Continuing your growth as both a fruitful busi-
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ness and a service provider is our mission here at LNE.
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I hope you find this guide interesting and insightful and that you garner a new outlook on your methods of skin analysis. For more Gut & Skin education, as well as advanced Wellness and Inner Beauty topics, join me this month at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia, April 22-23! I can’t wait to meet all of you! All the best,
bio-therapeutic.com
Cristina Beecham Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com April2018
LNEonline.com
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April volume 33 number 4
contents 54
The Gut & Skin Connection
18 Probiotic Skin Care
58
How’s Your Digestion?
62
Beauty Drinks
66
Nutrition In The Treatment Room
70
Inner Beauty Photo Shoot
24 Skin News
spa
12 Microneedling
guide
12 Microneedling
Rescue Spa, Philadelphia, PA
74
Is It Really Organic?
30
The Power Lunch
84
Daily Rituals For The Inspired
36
Spa News
Behind The Spa Door with Catherine Sinclair
42
Adding Nutrition To Your Spa Menu
48
Revamp Your Retail Strategy
52
Tradeshow Talk
42 Adding Nutrition To Your Spa Menu
88
image
40
Esthetician 87
Organic & Wellness News
74 Is It Really Organic?
30 The Power Lunch
business
53 Gut & Skin Guide
26
o&w
skin
6 From the Editor 98 Advertiser Index
Master the Art of Makeup with Beke Beau
90
Five Ways To Apply Blush
96
Image News
90 Five Ways To Apply Blush
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Brian Goodwin Cristina Beecham Carrie Borzillo Dr. Trevor Cates Cassandra Lanning Elyse Blakey Cathlene Bates Halley Hargonich
V I S I T
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Maxine Drake Rachael Pontillo Rose Marie Beauchemin
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Microneedling Why this beauty breakthrough treatment is here to stay by Rose Marie Beauchemin
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In the last few decades, there has been an explosion in the skin care industry introducing an array of new equipment, treatments, and products. These “breakthroughs” advertise dramatic and sometimes even life-changing results. Promises such as these sound exciting, but at the same time confusing to clients. How do they choose? Novel terms such as Copper Peptides, Stem Cell Therapy, Nanoparticles, Retinols, Salicylic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Radio Frequency, and Fraxel and Thermage are heavily advertised. Add to this, IPL’s (Intense Pulse Lights) which have become
almost as commonplace as a basic facial. Now, your clients ask, “Which treatment is best?” Where will they see the biggest difference in the shortest time? The latest skin treatment rapidly gaining momentum is Microneedling, also referred to as Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) and Percutaneous Collagen Induction (PCI). Microneedling is both uncomplicated and affordable. More importantly, microneedling provides the fastest and most significant changes in the skin with little to no recovery time.
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skin Microneedling a slight sunburn. A hyaluronic mask can be applied for 30 minutes to significantly calm the redness of your client’s skin. It only takes a few days for the skin to appear completely normal.
POST PROCEDURE
WHAT DOES IT DO? Microneedling dramatically improves the skin’s overall texture, plumps the skin, reduces pore size, minimizes pitted scars, smoothes fine and deep wrinkles, lightens and often eliminates dark spots and improves the accelerating performance of your skin care products. Although multiple sessions are packaged by most spas, visible changes and tightening are often noticeable following the very first treatment. Microneedling is perfect for women who want results without interrupting their busy lives. The magic begins right away, at the base of the epidermis. This slight injury (as it is interpreted by the skin) creates the immediate production of collagen and elastin which begins to plump the skin from beneath. The top layer of the epidermis generally flakes off within a couple of days, exposing a smoother, more plumped texture on the skin’s surface. The process is simple and one can expect minimal discomfort both during and post procedure. 14
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HOW TO PERFORM First, the skin is cleansed thoroughly, followed by the application of a topical anesthetic. Remove the topical anesthetic, and then apply a hyaluronic acid and a stem cell product. Before beginning, the skin must be stretched tightly in each area you are working to assure an even needle penetration. The tight stretching also makes a significant difference in your client’s comfort level. Patting or lightly stamping the reciprocating multi-needle device in the specific pattern recommended by the manufacturer (patted as opposed to dragging) across the face creates micro-channels that allow your preferred products to enter. Combining electronic microneedling and human growth factors from concentrated human stem cells seems to provide favorable results. This stamping motion continues zone by zone. A procedure on just the face alone typically takes less than 30 minutes. Post-procedure, your client’s skin may appear pinkish or red, similar to
A stem-cell serum may be applied along with a hyaluronic acid twice daily or per your product instructions for the first 30 days following the procedure. An SPF 50+ is highly recommended. Written and verbal instructions should be given to all clients post-procedure. The natural healing process between treatments takes approximately four to five weeks and results will continue to be apparent over this time. It is not recommended to treat sooner, since the skin is not sufficiently healed. Treatments are often packaged in a series of four to six. After each series, the client’s skin must be reevaluated. More sessions may be needed for more severe sun damage or pitted scarring. If the client is happy with the results after the first series, maintenance sessions can be recommended at three or six month intervals.
MICRO INJURIES When microneedling was initially introduced, the belief was that microchannels had to be created at the depth of the epidermal and dermal juncture. This produced a pin-point bleeding that was thought necessary to make this treatment effective. Further studies have proven that this is not the case. The juncture depth is not necessary to see dramatic results. The depth or injury in the base of the epidermis has proven to be just as effective in producing collagen and decreasing irritation and overall down-time.
MICRONEEDLING DEVICES Let’s start with the quality of the electronic microneedling device. The machine can make an enormous difference in the way the skin is penetrated as well as the number of penetrations it can generate. Needle heads vary from 15 to 20. Various needle lengths are avail-
LIQUID LASH LOVE This oil-free, no-rinse, 3-in-one cleanser gently and effectively removes makeup while conditioning and hydrating, leaving a fresh, clean feel that’s free of residue. Ophthalmologist Reviewed / Dermatologist Reviewed / Hypoallergenic Non-irritating / Oil-free / Safe for use with Lash Extensions ETERNALLY PINK RevitaLash® Cosmetics honors the courage and strength of our Co-Founder, Gayle Brinkenhoff, and that of women everywhere by supporting breast cancer awareness, research and education initiatives year-round, not just in October. This is our Eternally Pink Pledge. LNEonline.com April2018 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #346 on reader service card
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skin Microneedling
able from 1.5 mm to 3 mm. Selection will depend on the area of the face or body you are treating and the thinness or thickness of the skin. Thinner skin requires a shorter needle length and thicker skin can withstand a slightly longer needle. The 3 mm is generally used for deeply pitted acne scars. The needles in a reciprocating device are far less traumatizing to the skin than the microneedling roller. The roller creates larger holes and enters and exits the skin at an angle, causing tearing of the skin and more irritation.
WHO IS IT FOR? Microneedling can be used on many areas of the body. In addition to the face, you can customize a microneedling procedure to include arms, hands, neck, legs, back, buttocks, stomach, thighs, and the abdomen. Clients who are looking to improve the overall texture of their skin as well as the fine lines, wrinkles, scars from acne, injury, surgical procedures, stretch marks, or those looking to reverse sun damage and skin discoloration are all great candidates for microneedling.
CONTRAINDICATIONS Clients that have a history of skin cancer, have been treated with chemotherapy or radiation, are pregnant or nursing, or have any other serious health issues are not good candidates for microneedling. Active acne and herpes simplex are also off-limits, since these can result in spreading and cause further outbreaks. Active rosacea combined with microneedling can create an extensive flare-up. Those who are Fitzpatrick IV, V, and VI are not good candidates due to the risk of hyperpigmentation.
CONSULTATION The client consultation is an important aspect of the microneedling process. Reviewing your client's medical history and analyzing their skin to avoid any possible contraindications prior to booking an appointment is a must. An anti-viral drug may be necessary to 16
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prophylactically treat someone prone to herpes simplex to prevent a possible outbreak.
PRICING Depending on the size of the area to be treated, each treatment can range from $200 to $700, with buttocks, thighs, and stomach costing the most.
AT HOME MICRONEEDLING NO-NO’S Selling or encouraging the use of a home microneedling device to your clients creates a high risk of infection and over-scarring. This is a dangerous practice. Allergic reactions can occur without the proper serum, since microchannels have been created.
REGULATIONS Since each state varies in regulation of microneedling, estheticians need to contact their state’s Board of Health
Department as well as their State Board of Cosmetology and inquire whether they are permitted to perform this service within the state’s guidelines or if any additional licensing is required. If working within a medical practice, generally state guidelines do not apply. All responsibility is deferred to the medical practice.
Rose Marie Beauchemin is the owner and director of education for the Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics. She brings her 25 years of experience and knowledge of makeup artistry and color theory into each training program offered at Beau. For more information, visit beauinstitute.com or call 888.763.2328. Contact Beauchemin at rosemarie@beauinstitute.com.
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There’s an age old saying that tells you to “trust your gut,” and just like a lot of old sayings, there’s a conventional wisdom applicable to many modern topics, including skin care. Little did our ancestors know that trusting and taking care of our gut’s health plays a pivotal role, not only in our overall health, but also in our skin’s health. The body contains about 10 times more bacteria (both good and bad) than the number of our own cells; and to put into perspective just how incredible that is, there are a total of approximately 37.2 trillion cells in the average human body! The term "pro-biotic" was first used in 1965, by scientists Lilly and Stillwell, to describe substances secreted by one organism which stimulate the growth of another (1). In other words, probiotics are a beneficial type of bacteria that promote each other’s growth. For centuries, humans have been consuming probiotics without even realizing it, and this is because throughout history, humans have been dirty. To elaborate on this, humans didn’t believe in bathing frequently and were outdoors quite often, exposed to a much more diverse bacterial culture which exists in nature. These bacteria teach our immune system everything, making it stronger and smarter in protecting us. In addition, there was more dirt on the foods people consumed, and they used to clean everything less frequently.
PROBIOTIC SKIN CARE
Treat your clients with topical probiotics for a one-two punch! by Brian Goodwin
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skin Probiotic Skin Care
Amongst other things, what we call “dirt” contains a plethora of various types of probiotics. Humans now shower daily, which makes us smell and feel great; but also exposes us to potentially harmful chemicals in shampoos, conditioners, body washes and facial cleansers. These chemicals may potentially disrupt the delicate bacteria balance of the skin, leading to possible skin disorders. Our culture now teaches us to over sanitize everything, with potentially harmful chemicals, destroying both the bad and good bacteria in the process. With these chemicals negatively impacting the beneficial bacteria all around us, the case for increasing probiotic consumption for our health, both internally and topically, is becoming undeniable.
The Role of Probiotics and Prebiotics in the Gut New species of bacteria living within and outside of the body are being discovered every day. With humans naturally carrying this much bacteria, it begs the question, what exactly does the good bacteria do? The answer is, a whole lot! Our bodies have a team of beneficial bacteria set up within the digestive tract that is built to protect us and regulate bodily functions. This probiotic team was created from the time we were in the mother’s womb and continues to change and grow from birth to adulthood, based on our encounters with pathogens and our lifestyle habits. As we progress through life, our bacteria communicate with our cells and continue to learn, alerting the immune system when there is a foreign pathogen or infection. These beneficial bacteria also play a role in controlling many of the body’s daily tasks. Research has shown that probiotics help to regulate the immune system, assist in controlling our inflammatory response, affect nutrient absorption, play a role in our ability to have energy
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within our cells and help to maintain the barrier function of the digestive system (2)(3). This barrier allows us to absorb the nutrients from foods and also prevents harmful bacteria, inflammatory cells and food from leaking into the bloodstream. All of this means that good bacteria give us a healthy immune system so that we don’t get sick, keep inflammation down to prevent disease and make sure that we absorb the vitamins, nutrients and minerals from our diet. Probiotics also make sure that the bad bacteria are kept in check, inhibiting potential infection within the gut (4). An additional topic that is overlooked in the realm of probiotics is prebiotics. To put it simply, prebiotics are nutrients (or food) for probiotics that allow them to reproduce, grow and re-
populate. Unfortunately, the Western diet doesn’t lend itself to supporting beneficial bacteria growth because it is typically lacking in fiber, a major prebiotic. Without fiber, the beneficial bacteria can’t thrive and grow and are unable to continue to do all of the important functions mentioned previously. Prebiotics are arguably even more important in keeping the bacterial balance of the body. It’s actually quite simple to incorporate healthy fibers into the diet to feed our beneficial bacteria. Foods such as seaweed (5), Jerusalem artichokes (6), chicory root (7) and flaxseeds (8) all have studies showing that their prebiotic fiber content can help to repopulate the gut with healthy bacteria. In other words, follow another old saying and “eat your greens!”
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skin Probiotic Skin Care
Connecting the Skin to Your Gut Besides consuming probiotics internally, why would you want to use them on the skin topically? The answer is that topically, probiotics have shown a multitude of benefits for all skin conditions. From increasing barrier function of the skin for sensitive and dry skin types (9), to helping inhibit harmful bacteria that can lead to breakouts (10), the need for these alternative treatments is clear, especially in the case of acne, where antibiotics and harmful chemicals are currently the gold standard. Both harmful chemicals and antibiotics can disrupt the delicate balance of the microbiome of the skin, potentially worsening conditions or causing new problems altogether. As our understanding of bacterial balance and its role in the health of the gut has evolved, so has our understanding of the microbiome of the skin. It was discovered that there are different types of bacteria growing all over the skin – your skin is a bacterial rainforest! Interestingly, there are unique types of bacteria that only grow behind the ears, differing bacteria that populate in dry areas of the skin and specific types of bacteria that grow near the sebaceous glands or more oily areas of the skin. This discovery peaked the curiosity to gain a better understanding of what role these different types of bacteria play in our skin’s overall health as well as a need to explore if there is a difference in the bacterial balance of healthy versus “unhealthy” skin. Probiotics in skin care are most commonly found in any products that can have a cream or yogurt base, such as a moisturizer, mask or cleanser. For example, in high quality probiotic cleansers, the synergistic, antibacterial benefits of tea tree and willow bark are combined with a yogurt-based culture of probiotics. This combination provides a potent treatment that can inhibit harmful bacteria (11), which is one of the proven causes for breakouts 22
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in the skin. This is all done in a base that doesn’t over dry the skin, but instead hydrates, heals and cools the skin with cucumber and sweet almond milk. As stated previously, probiotics could have benefits for every other skin condition, so incorporating them into your treatments for sensitive/rosacea-prone skin, dry, aging skin or acne-prone skin types could provide numerous benefits. With probiotics helping to control our skin’s inflammatory response, there is also research on the horizon pointing to probiotics having benefits for hyperpigmentation due to the fact that inflammation is one of the leading triggers for pigment reaction and proliferation.
Probiotic Facial Protocol For all skin types, especially oily & acne-prone Allow 60-75 minutes 1) Cleanse with Probiotic Cleanser 2) Tone 3) Steam, Exfoliate 4) Perform extractions as needed 5) Apply Probiotic Mask 6) Perform face/neck/shoulder/back/ hand/arm massage 7) Remove Mask 8) Apply toning serum 9) Apply Probiotic Moisturizer 10) Apply Eye Cream & Lip Balm
References: (1) Probiotics. Gupta V1, Garg R. Indian J Med Microbiol. 2009 Jul-Sep;27(3):202-9. doi: 10.4103/0255-0857.53201. (2) Immune modulation property of Lactobacillus paracasei NCC2461 (ST11) strain and impact on skin defenses. Benyacoub J., Bosco N., Blanchard C., Demont A., Phillippe D., Castiel-Higounenc I. Benef Microbes. 2014;5:129–136. (3) Oral probiotic control skin inflammation by acting on both effector and regulatory T cells. Hacini-Rachinel F1, Gheit H, Le Luduec JB, Dif F, Nancey S, Kaiserlian D. PLoS One. 2009;4(3):e4903. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0004903. Epub 2009 Mar 20. (4) Understanding the mechanisms by which probiotics inhibit gastrointestinal pathogens. Corr SC1, Hill C, Gahan CG. Adv Food Nutr Res. 2009;56:1-15. doi: 10.1016/S1043-4526(08)00601-3 (5) Prebiotics from marine macroalgae for human and animal health applications. O'Sullivan L1, Murphy B,
skin Probiotic Skin Care McLoughlin P, Duggan P, Lawlor
Jan 20;5(3):161-7. doi: 10.1016/j.
Staphylococcus aureus, Staph. epider-
PG, Hughes H, Gardiner GE.
jtcme.2014.11.016. eCollection 2015 Jul.
midis and Propionibacterium acnes. Raman A1, Weir U, Bloomfield SF.
Mar Drugs. 2010 Jul 1;8(7):2038(8) Flaxseed-a potential func-
Lett Appl Microbiol. 1995
tional food source.
Oct;21(4):242-5.
(6) Prebiotic potential of Jerusalem
Kajla P1, Sharma A1, Sood DR1.
artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus L.) in
J Food Sci Technol. 2015 Apr;52(4):1857-
Wistar rats: effects of levels of supple-
71. doi: 10.1007/s13197-014-
mentation on hindgut fermentation,
1293-y. Epub 2014 Feb 28.
intestinal morphology, blood metabolites and immune response.
(9) Increase of skin-ceramide levels in
Samal L1, Chaturvedi VB, Saikumar G,
aged subjects following a short-term topi-
Somvanshi R, Pattanaik AK.J Sci Food
cal application of bacterial sphingomy-
Agric. 2015 Jun;95(8):1689-96. doi:
elinase from Streptococcus thermophilus.
10.1002/jsfa.6873. Epub 2014 Sep 25.
Di Marzio L, Ciinque B, Cupelli F. et al .. Int J Immunopathol
(7) Effects of the extract from
Pharmacol 2008;21(1):137-143.
roasted chicory (Cichorium intybus L.) root containing inulin-type fruc-
(10) Prebiotic cosmetics: an alterna-
tans on blood glucose, lipid me-
tive to antibacterial products
tabolism, and fecal properties.
Bockmuhl D, Jasoy C, Nielveler S,
Nishimura M1, Ohkawara T2, Kanayama
et al.. IFSSC Mag 20006;9:1-5.
T1, Kitagawa K3, Nishimura H4, Nishihira J1.J Tradit Complement Med. 2015
(11) Antimicrobial effects of tea-tree oil and its major components on
HC
Brian Goodwin is an International Educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a Master Medical Esthetician, Master Herbalist and Consultant with over 10 years of experience in the spa industry, Brian brings his love and enthusiasm for skin care to the masses with his passionate, fun and educational trainings. Brian has had the honor of educating and consulting over 2,000 distinguished spas and has also been a keynote speaker, most notably in New York City, Washington DC, Los Angeles and Vancouver, guiding spas towards finding success in both educational and business growth.
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64. doi: 10.3390/md8072038.
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EXPRESS EXFOLIATION
RapidRenew™Skin Perfecting Polish by Rapidlash is formulated with Hexatein 5 Complex. These unique combinations of highly beneficial ingredients are specifically blended to chemically and mechanically exfoliate skin. RapidRenew ™ boosts cell turnover with gentle yet effective exfoliating elements creating a bright, radiant, polished complexion.
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OVERNIGHT SENSATION
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
SkinNews
VITAL C Hydrating Overnight Masque from Image Skincare is an overnight treatment ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and/or irritated skin - a beauty sleep aide in a bedside jar! The luxurious crème 9600formula delivers water to the skin and locks in vital nutrients throughout the night. Blue-Green Algae Extract, a natural retinoid alternative, helps smooth skin and diminish wrinkles while Hematite and Malakite go to work to restore skin tone while smoothing and energizing skin.
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FRUITFUL ENDEAVORS
Eminence Organics’ Mangosteen Pro Peels 10% Daily Resurfacing Cleanser and Concentrate are formulated to address the root causes of dullness and tired, uneven-looking skin. The products in this collection combine a proprietary Lactic Acid Complex with antioxidant-rich Mangosteen to unveil a fresh, luminous complexion.
888.747.6342 eminenceorganics.com
DNA HERO
DNA R&R (Repair and Restore) Serum from Sesha Skin Therapy combats environmental damage with a winning combination of DNA repair ingredients. A developed compound called acetyl hexapeptide-51 has been shown to mimic the actions associated with FOXO3a activity—helping to protect the skin from the consequences of DNA damage. Ingredients also include LIPOCHROMAN™ which protects cells from damage.
1.888.977.3742 seshaskin.com
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Industry Talk
ATTILA KORONCZAY, GENERAL MANAGER, EMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE
Q: Why do you think being an Earth-conscious spa business is important? We believe there’s a responsibility that every business has to protect and heal the Earth. After all, we want future generations to enjoy our planet just as much as their ancestors did. Q: How does Eminence “go green”? Eminence has dozens of green initiatives. For us, being ‘green’ has been a natural (pun intended) part of our company since inception. All of our packing chips are biodegradable – try it! Drop a few packing peanuts into a glass of water and stir! We also provide reusable bags to tradeshow attendees, spa partners and our employees. These iconic tote bags are made of jute – one of nature’s most sustainable fibers. We’re also a Certified B Corporation™. B Corp™ certification is to a business what LEED certifica-
tion is for a building. Evaluated by the nonprofit, B-Lab, we’re held to meet the highest standards of environmental performance, transparency and accountability. Lastly, our most popular green initiative is called Forests for the Future, which is our commitment to plant a tree for every retail product sold. We are so proud to announce that, this April, we became the first skin care company in the world to plant 10,000,000 trees! Q: What are some ways spas can be environmentally friendly? For many years, Eminence has offered our own “Green Spa” program. By following a series of simple, easy to incorporate ‘green practices,’ spas can achieve this special designation from Eminence. These are small ways that can add up quickly into making a real difference. We’re proud to say that hundreds of Eminence Partner Spas have attained this important distinction.
Here are some tips to be environmentally friendly: • Use power strips in treatment rooms and office areas • Use reusable or biodegradable options instead of single-use paper or plastic cups, plates and flatware • Establish an in-spa recycling program • Use natural, non-toxic, biodegradable cleaning supplies • Limit the amount of linen products available to guests • Offer organic, fair-trade coffee and/ or tea • Use halogen, LED, CLF or low-voltage lighting • Use filtered water taps • Print materials on FSC-paper with vegetable inks • Designate time at staff meetings to discuss new and existing environmental efforts Q: Does becoming a green spa impact revenue? Becoming a green spa can increase revenue if spa guests are made aware of this unique distinction. If your spa becomes an Eminence Green Spa, be sure to include this Green Spa certification/commitment in all social media channels, website, spa menu, receipts and email signatures. Consider sending out a local press release to shout the good news from the rooftops to your nearby market. Savvy customers would likely choose an eco-friendly spa if given the option! Spas may also notice a decrease in utility bills by opting for energy-efficient appliances, LED lights.
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eminenceorganics.com 888.747.6342 info@eminenceorganics.com LNEonline.com
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RESCUE SPA
PHILADELPHIA, PA
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A modern luxury for skin care aficionados
SPA OF THE MONTH
PHOTOGRAPHY BY: Rescue Spa, NYC
BY CRISTINA BEECHAM If you’re looking for the intersection of luxury spa and results-oriented skin care, search no further than Rescue Spa in Philadelphia, PA. With locations in New York and Philadelphia, this full service luxury day spa is the culmination of founder Danuta Mieloch’s passion for advanced skin care and experience in the luxury spa market. Rescue spa is described as offering “a highly personalized, integrative and comprehensive approach to skin care and beauty, providing people with indulgent experiences.” Be inspired by this five-star establishment that brings bliss to its clients from head-to-toe.
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SIGNATURE TREATMENT Spa owner Danuta Mieloch has over 30 years of experience in the skin care industry. Her standard for results-oriented techniques is unparalleled, making Rescue Day Spa the place to go for serious skin concerns. At Rescue Spa, rigorously trained estheticians take a full spectrum approach in combining the latest in cosmeceuticals and technology like LED, with naturally derived ingredients that clients can feel proud of. Built on creating the most desirable facial in the game, Rescue Spa is known for its Signature Classic Facial (60 minutes, $110). This “transformative treatment works cumulatively over time to provide lasting and time-reversing results through deep-cleansing, exfoliation, Rescue’s renowned sculpting and lifting facial massage, treatment masks, and more.” Clients have expressed such gratitude for the changes Danuta’s services inspires in their skin. Danuta is quoted saying: “What motivates and drives me is seeing the serious changes we can help people achieve. People have told us that their major skin improvements have bettered their lives – I never forget hearing that.”
soothing tea in the relaxing lounge, you may just want to move in, or at least book treatments as regularly as your schedule allows.” Rescue Spa, NYC pictured above
MARKETING
The spa’s claim to fame is its ability to produce real change in its clients’ skin. This is achieved with an array of antiaging, firming, lifting and energizing facials. From High Frequency Zit Zap add-ons (15 minutes, $25) to 60 minute LED Facials (60 minutes, $150) and 90 minute Oxylight Facials (90 minutes, $350), the spa has a range of active ingredients and technologically advanced protocols for a range of skin conditions and budget allowances. Danuta understands that feeling beautiful is an inside-out experience, so feel-good Scalp Massage + Hair Mask (15 minutes, $30) and Super Natural Massages (60 minutes, $120) “enhance relaxation and restore balance of the mind, body, and soul. After a sip of
Rescue Spa is active on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Twitter to stay connected with their clients and expose their luxurious havens in Philadelphia and New York to potential guests all over the world. With a cumulative social media following of almost 20,000, their artful Instagram posts and instructional YouTube videos reach a wide range of viewers. The spa makes particular use of their YouTube channel, with almost 1,000 followers and some videos receiving over 70,000 views. With videos like “How To: Complete Skincare Regimen” and “Memorial Day Weekend Skincare Prep,” the spa’s popular channel is a go-to place for skin care advice that leads clients straight to their online
OFFERINGS Rescue Spa’s full-service menu touts something for every client. From seriously potent facials to surprisingly slimming body treatments, Danuta’s expertly curated menu helps clients brighten their skin, reduce cellulite, refresh their hairstyle, and even cultivate a sense of over-all wellbeing. Danuta states: “As humans we communicate through our skin. Touching and feeling is a remarkable gift, and that’s where Rescue methods can help balance and provide essential care.” Rescue Spa’s range of massage therapy services spans from Classic Swedish, Deep Tissue and Super Natural to Hot Stone and Prenatal, each available for 60 or 90 minutes starting at $110. 28
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Retail Lines: Biologique Recherche, Valmont, Vitner’s Daughter, MBR, 3Lab, Oribe, Christophe Robin and more.
Spa Menu Composition: 40
percent facials; 20 percent massage; 10 percent body & waxing; 30 percent hair, nails & makeup.
Spa Director Spotlight:
Rescue Spa, NYC pictured above
shop and spa. Being an esthetician also means being an educator, and Rescue Spa takes full advantage of this with their innovative and instructional videos. In keeping with the trend, Rescue Spa also makes bold use of Facebook Live. Their “Rescue Spa DIY Facial” video has now garnered over 1,000 views. Live streaming gives an intimate peek into the world of luxury skin care treatments and entices viewers to book their appointment at Danuta’s skin care wonderland.
RETAIL Retail is an important sales driver for any spa. Rescue Spa makes shopping for results-oriented skin care easy for their clients, especially those who can’t make it into their bespoke skin care boutique. Rescue Spa’s online skin care shop is personally curated by Rescue Spa founder Danuta Mieloch, who makes sure to supply a selection of products based on efficacy and performance, rather than brand affiliation. “Danuta is constantly striving to offer simply the best of the best. Even better, Skin Care Experts are fully at your disposal for highly personalized virtual
consultations on everything from developing the proper skin care regimen to their recommended treatments via online chat, email, or phone.” Rescue Spa values a seamless shopping experience. For this reason, clients often feel that shopping on the spa’s website is no different than perusing the shelves of its gilded boutique. In the brick and mortar, qualified sales personnel “strive to spread the good word about products rather than simply close a sale. No matter where you are located, Rescue is driven to help customers get life-changing results.”
Danuta Mieloch is a nationally celebrated and respected esthetician, as well as the owner of the award-winning Rescue Spa located in both New York and Philadelphia. Danuta’s ethos is that “beautiful skin is a matter of choice, not chance,” and is her trademark as well as an accolade of her devoted clientele. With her extensive training, passion, and true care paired with her skill in discovering breakthrough, non-invasive treatments, Danuta has earned her position as a top facialist. Danuta’s ultimate goal is to encourage women to take care of their skin for their overall health.
Rundown Rescue Spa
1601 Walnut Street, 3rd Floor Philadelphia, PA 19102 rescuespa.net
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques &
1-866-772-2766
Launch: Philadelphia 2004, New York 2017
Spa Owner: Danuta Mieloch
Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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The
Power Lunch Serve the busy professional with these lunchtime spa menus by Carrie Borzillo Let's do lunch! Spas are catering to busy professionals and working moms by coming up with lunchtime, express treatments to serve their skin care needs in 30 minutes or less. Shorter treatments squeezed in between meetings or after dropping the kids off for activities have become so popular that many spas have created full lunchtime menus to serve the needs of this special client. Here are five great lunchtime menus...
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spa The Power Lunch
LUNCH TIME FACIALS MENU Avora Skin Spa British Columbia, Canada Avora Skin Spa has gone with a yummy food theme for their Lunch Time Facials menu, which features four 30-minute facials for $70 each, including Strawberry Smoossy Facial, Chocolate Bliss Facial, Avocado Whipped Cream Facial, and Skin Performance "Crash" Kur. "This menu is inspired by 'delicious' active ingredients to meet demands of different skin types and to show that skin also needs 'lunch.' The Avocado Whipped Cream Facial is best for sensitive, dry skin to nourish and protect it. Chocolate Bliss Facial vitalizes and stimulates dull, tired skin and Strawberry Smoossy Facial refreshes and gives a glow, which is also great for combination skin," says spa director Olga Goroupitch. The most popular Lunch Time Facial is Skin Performance 'Crash' Kur with three different ampoules introduced
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to skin. "It delivers the best results for a 30-minute treatment. Three powerful concentrated ampoules (selected according to the client's skin needs) are applied with the special massage technique. We call it 'Ampoule Attack.' It's a very powerful skin boost and great before a big event or meeting, as it instantly transforms the skin, giving it a moisture plumpness, freshness and long lasting healthy glow," she adds. The Lunch Time Facials treatments are available all day on Mondays and Tuesdays, but only from 11 a.m. until 1 p.m. Wednesday through Friday. "We see more young women, students, moms, and working women from nearby offices taking advantage of the offer. But, it's also a good introduction to our facial menu for first-time clients," she adds.
FIT FACE LIFT & EXPRESS CLEANSE FACIAL Elixir Mind Body Massage Denver, Colorado After seeing the popularity of chair massages (15-30 minutes, $20-$45) with their busy massage clients, Elixir Mind Body Massage decided to offer something similar to their skin care clients with a few express facial options, including Express Cleanse Facial and Fit Face Lift (both are 30-minutes, $55). "A great deal of our guests are business people who come to see us when they can create time in their day, travelers looking to squeeze in an effective service before a flight, or people who can't always get away from their family for a full spa day, but still want to take great care of their skin," says founder Sandy Stroehmann.
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spa The Power Lunch The Express Cleanse Facial features nearly all the components of a classic European facial. "It's organic, mostly vegan and customized to the needs of the guest's skin. The line is packed with fruit enzymes and designed to accelerate cell turn over, so even a quick service will yield powerful results," says Stroehmann. The Fit Face features micro-current technology to give the facial muscles an instant and noticeable lift. "It's much like a workout for your face, she continues. "This service gives a tightened look, but also increases facial circulation and brightens the skin. This is a perfect quick service to get before any event where you want to look your best." One key ingredient for lunchtime facials: make sure there is no downtime. Clients may need to be able to get to their next meeting right away. "They leave with their skin looking beautiful and fresh — no recovery time required," she adds.
EXPRESS THERAPY MENU The Spa at Fashion Island Hotel Newport Beach, California The Spa at Fashion Island Hotel caters to the client on-the-go with the Express Therapy Menu featuring four quick fixes for everyday stresses: Jet Lag Quick Fix, Power Stretch, Island Express Facial, and Healing Head, Neck & Shoulder Massage, each 30-minutes for $90. "We created our Express Therapy menu to give our first-time guests, as well as repeat guests, the opportunity to try something different – it's more of a 'taste test' of our standard spa menu offerings. This menu is ideal for the busy working woman, or man, who is always on the go but wants a quick fix at the spa," says spa manager Melissa Bassett. The most popular of the four is the Jet Lag Quick Fix, which is a rejuvenating and energizing massage to assist travelers in adjusting to a new time zone and work out any post-flight kinks. The Power Stretch helps clients
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reduce stress by stretching the body to relieve underlying tension and aid in a restful night sleep. Island Express Facial offers a classic cleansing, exfoliating, and moisturizing service to the skin, while the Healing Head, Neck and Shoulder helps to reduce strain, pain, and fatigue in an all-in-one massage designed to loosen tight muscles and instantly ease tension. "We launched the Express Therapy menu last spring, and it's been very successful," adds Bassett. "It's important to offer a variety of offerings. Some people really aren't able to undergo a 90-minute treatment, as they either don’t have the time, the money, or the patience. So this option allows for flexibility as it only requires a minimum of 30 minutes, but still produces incredible results."
DIGITAL DETOX MENU The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Washington, D.C. With Washington, D.C. being a hectic city full of power players in politics, business, and technology, The Spa at Four Seasons Washington, D.C., add-
ed the Digital Detox menu featuring mini-treatments for the time-pressed individual. The menu includes three massages: Tech Neck (a targeted massage for the neck and shoulders to relieve muscle tension from using electronic devices all day long), Re-Set Button (a revitalizing massage to give clients' hands and arms a break from the computer), and Put Your Feet Up (a re-energizing foot massage with peppermint infused lotion using reflexology techniques). It also features one facial — the Rejuvenating Mini Facial aimed to recharge the skin with infusion of botanical vitamins, minerals, omegas, and antioxidants to naturally provide environmental protection and nutrition for healthy glowing skin. Each treatment is 20-minutes long and priced at $100 (Monday-Thursday), $110 (FridaySunday), or $135 (Holidays). "The 20 minute executive treatments, ideal for the lunch hour, were created for those always on the go that need a break from the hustle and bustle and a few minutes to recharge and clear their minds. These treatments specifically target the neck and shoulders,
spa The Power Lunch hands and arms or feet allowing the therapist to focus on a targeted area that needs the most attention," says assistant spa director Bethany Lehr. The menu was created based mostly on client feedback to the therapist during regular massages. "We discovered that the three areas that guests ask our therapists to spend a bit more time on are the neck and shoulders, hands and arms or feet. We started as a trial and realized that guests were booking these 20-minute treatments encouraging us to add them to our menu," she adds.
THE POWER LUNCH The Ritz-Carlton Spa - Los Angeles The Ritz-Carlton Spa aims to get their Power Lunch clients in and out of the spa in under an hour with their choice of one of three 25-minute services to choose from and a healthy bento box
lunch by the WP24 by Wolfgang Puck restaurant, which they can either leisurely eat at the spa or even take to go. The $150 package (including complimentary valet parking) offers up three express treatments: The most popular is the Rush Hour Massage, a targeted massage that eases tension, reduces stress, and addresses specific areas of concern. The Skin Quench Facial is a refreshing facial treatment designed to quickly and effectively address dehydrated and fatigued skin. Or, clients can choose the ancient Chinese technique of Reflexology, which uses pressure point massage on the feet. "The purpose of the package is to provide guests with a window of time that they can dedicate to themselves, during work or between mom duties. We keep it simple, seamless, and quick so that women can be in and out the door without missing a beat," says spa director Tamara Ische.
The new menu also serves another purpose. "The spa supports finding new and practical ways to integrate mindfulness in all aspects of life, whether that's a business meeting or a healthy shake-up in the day. Express treatments allow guests to prioritize their wellbeing without having to wait till the weekend to relieve stress," adds Ische.
Carrie Borzillo is an award-winning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@gmail.com.
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SWISS FORMULATIONS LNEonline.com
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PINEAPPLE POWERED
Exfoliate, smooth and even out body skin with our Exfoliating & Hydrating Body Lotion from Bella Schneider Beauty that also diminishes hyperpigmentation and signs of age with glycolic acid, pineapple and aloe. Remove dead skin cells to reveal a more youthful look while deeply hydrating the skin with sweet almond, avocado, and squalane oils. Your client’s skin will feel totally soothed and refreshed by replenishing aloe, cucumber, chamomile, and calendula.
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A BENEFICIAL BLEND
This month, Fake Bake will launch their Flawless Coconut Tanning Serum for Face and Body. This beauty and bronzing hybrid, which is part of the Fake Bake ‘Flawless’ family, works to deliver a luxurious golden tan, while keeping the skin hydrated. Packed with carefully selected ingredients, this fast drying, refreshing and moisturizing serum will change the way you tan forever.
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ONE OF A KIND
The first of its kind, the Pedispa Square by Gharieni is a multi-functional powered bed that is truly unique and innovative in its design. Five distinct actuators allow multi use functions in the spa environment including, pedicures, manicures, hair services, facials and makeup application. Fully adjustable components include the seat, backrest incline, leg rest height and length with easily programmable memory positions.
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MASTERY OF THE MULTI-FUNCTIONAL
Solaris Laboratories’ Cupping Therapy Set is a safe, non-invasive, painless technique that has been used as holistic traditional medicine across civilizations from Asia to Egypt for thousands of years. During the massage technique, a simple application of vigorous, quick, rhythmical strokes stimulate the muscles while moving stagnant lymph and blood. Practical applications include anti-aging, enhanced cosmetic product potency, facial drainage of sinuses for allergies, cellulite reduction, treatment of muscular/joint pain, stretch mark reduction, and relaxation.
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PHILADELPHIA, PA April 22 & 23, 2018 Pennsylvania Convention Center The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Retail Conference • Business Conference • Wellness Conference Mindfulness Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
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BEHIND THE SPA DOOR with Catherine Sinclair, Mirbeau Inn & Spa
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INSPIRATION How did you get involved in the spa industry? My family opened Mirbeau Inn & Spa 18 years ago, when I was just a college student. I always enjoyed learning how the spa operated and what little things we could do as employees to make a difference in our guest’s stay. I always loved seeing our guests leave feeling transformed after a treatment.
How did you develop the concept of your spa? The concept behind Mirbeau was developed by the owner’s desire to create a boutique resort complex that would combine the warmth and intimacy of a French country estate with state of the
art facilities. The name Mirbeau means “Reflected Beauty” which is inspired, in part, by the soft light and warm colors of Claude Monet’s paintings.
LEADERSHIP ROLE What daily challenges do you encounter as a spa owner/ manager? The daily life of a Spa Director is never boring. When you are working hard to keep all of your employees and guests happy it can be physically and emotionally draining.
How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? I have found that the best way my body responds to stress is a good workout routine, even if that means waking up at 5:30 AM before the kids wake up to fit it in. It allows me a chance to clear my mind and gives me that extra boost I need to get me through the workday.
TEAM BUILDING How do you select the employees that are going to be working with you? We always are looking for friendly and enthusiastic team players that have a positive and caring attitude. Mirbeau candidates should have an outgoing personality and a willingness to learn. For therapists, we require at least twoyears experience providing services.
What techniques/tactics do you use to keep your employees happy/ incentivized? I believe that we succeed together as a team, so providing a team atmosphere is very important to me. We consistently run monthly retail incentive challenges for both our spa desk and spa therapist teams with prizes cash, treatments
or retail products. We also have an employee recognition program that allows employees and managers to recognize their peers for providing caring service and anticipating guest needs. These individual recognitions get added up in a point system and employees can then redeem them for spa treatments or even overnight stays.
RETAIL What incentives do you offer your staff to reach retail goals? We reward our therapists with commissions on retail they sell to guests by recommending products during their services. We also set a percentage goal of their service costs that they have to hit in order to qualify for a spa treatment. We partner with our vendors that offer product prizes or gift cards for high sales. Since the Spa desk is responsible for closing the retail sale at check out, they are incentivized as a team to make a monthly budget in order to win a spa treatment.
mosphere. We are constantly running social media advertisements for promotions and events and send out monthly emails.
EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE How do you keep clients loyal and consistent? We keep clients coming back with our friendly service, quality treatments, and beautiful atmosphere. Our guests enjoy the sense of happiness that comes from simple classic experiences that are delivered with caring service, and that is what we deliver.
What incentives do you offer to your clients to be sure they come back again? We offer a membership program that provides discounts for spa services and retail purchases.
Where do you feel is the most efficient location for a retail section in a spa? The most efficient location for a retail section in the spa is in the spa lobby where guests are checking in and checking out. Our boutique is set up right outside the locker rooms and is staffed by the same employees that are checking guests in and out.
MARKETING & PUBLICITY What have you found is most effective when it comes to marketing techniques and strategy? Imagery is huge for social media. We try to portray the spa experience through photography that captures the emotion of relaxation and a stress free at-
Catherine Sinclair
TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS Organizational structure and consistent communication are key. I have learned that to be a successful leader you need to create a culture that encourages employees to be creative, focused and committed. This is accomplished through consistent communication, coaching, and compromises.
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ADDING NUTRITION
TO YOUR SPA MENU
Encourage your spa guests to live a healthy lifestyle with these Spa Director tips
by Halley Hargonich
Keeping a positive environment at the work place is just the beginning of encouraging a healthier lifestyle to guests passing through. As a skin care professional and Spa Director, make it part of your routine daily to relate this information to your team and especially to your customers. When creating a defined experience for your guests and guiding them on a holistic journey, steer them in the direction of understanding the ‘why’ of the importance of having a true skin care and body care regimen that runs more than skin deep. The digestive system is essential to the way the whole body works. It is what allows vitamins and intake of food to go through a process of absorption that can give the body energy and provide lustrous support to its largest organ- the skin. Vitamins, anti-oxidants and minerals are inherent lenders that are proactively maintaining the natural chemicals found in body tissue; such as collagen synthesis, elasticity, hormones, and delivering oxygen to the blood vessels for a clear complexion. LNEonline.com
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business Adding Nutrition To Your Spa Menu
EVERY SERVICE PLAYS A ROLE At my spa, we discuss the organs and their functions when providing services. From facials, to massages and even nail care services, we can truly show a disease of our inner body that can be un-known to the naked eye. We discuss nutrition based upon our Dosha’s, which is an Ayurvedic balance between the elements of nature and the body. When providing a sense of well being through spa treatments and teaching clients how to balance their circadian rhythm, we are developing a deeper knowledge of health and caring for clients. When beginning a treatment, educate your client on the major organs involved for clear, radiant skin from the inside out. The stomach, pancreas and liver (which is the second largest organ) are just part of the vital organs aiding in digestion and balancing sugar, proteins and fats. Discuss with your clients how the ingredients they feed their body should be designed of a rich recipe optimally enhancing the growth of skins cells, fighting free radicals and wrinkles. Vitamins help to work overtime in delivering extra consumption of what is needed for a healthy diet and an improved complexion. By connecting each treatment to a different nutritional or inner beauty benefit, you create a more holistic experience for the client that addresses their concerns inside and out. The client’s feeling of being well cared for by your staff and your services is the key to increasing client retention when adding nutrition and inner beauty related service to your menu.
IT STARTS WITH THE CONSULTATION Use your consultation as an opportunity to acknowledge these factors when consulting your guests prior to their services. On our consultation forms, we have our guests circle how they 44
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perceive stress, where their ailments in the body exist and find what allergens create inflammation in the gut. This topic is important information for delivering the proper techniques to your guests, having an ultimate experience from the outside, in. You can suggest to the guest to have an abdomen massage if they are suffering from bowel discomfort. Have a candid talk with them, especially your regular costumers, to give comfort in creating a healthy living. I suggest that in all spas, day or resort, a written and verbal consultation form should be created and not just made to be generic. It should really include questions that can raise an eyebrow to what is going on internally. Generally, guests may find this to be inconveniencing because the last thing they want to feel is like they are being tested or just given more paperwork to fill out. If that is the case, keep the consultation form short but in the room, take the time to speak to them and find
out the true reasons they are there for a facial or massage (yes, its possible they are there for just relaxation and upkeep). Your guests may feel more secure and less exposed in speaking in private and then you can truly help them to identify “what’s going on.”
TAKING CARE OF YOUR CLIENT’S HEALTH IS GOOD BUSINESS Taking care of your client’s health is more than a good business strategy. Healthy clients feel empowered to come back and connect with your staff and services. One of the simplest ways to encourage happy, healthy and loyal clients is to express to your guests and staff the importance of the proper intake of vitamins. They help maintain our flora, stabilize our mood and help with elimination of toxins. There are two different ways vitamins dissolve through the body: water soluble and fat soluble: water-soluble
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business Adding Nutrition To Your Spa Menu
Encourage your clients to consume water to stay extra hydrated! EDUCATE YOUR CLIENTS
(vitamin C and all B vitamins) are easily absorbed, stored and removed through the kidneys, and fat-soluble (vitamins A, D, E and K) are absorbed through the lymph, transported through the blood and can be stored in the liver and fatty tissues as needed. A few of those vitamins that can help remove toxins and utilize the body’s energy while being easy on our digestive system are: biotin, which is a coenzyme that acts for cellular growth can be taken daily to strengthen hair, nails and skin. Biotin is a water-soluble vitamin that is important for energy metabolism. Vitamin C is a powerful anti-oxidant that protects and repairs the immune system. Vitamin C is absorbed through the intestines. It is sourced from many different fruits and vegetables, but one of the best ways to get it is from orange citrus. Fat- soluble vitamins, like beta-carotene (vitamin A) ensure bright, vibrant and soft skin. 46
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MINERAL MUST HAVES As for minerals, they are dense and full of components for teeth, blood, and control hormones. The five major minerals are calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium and magnesium. Remember to inform your guests about the right way of taking vitamins properly. That is with a light meal and plenty of water. In my spa, we like to encourage our guests with healthy options of water intake by infusing it with different fruits like; cucumber, melons and a citrus with mint. Sometimes we like to place healing crystals inside the water to promote an overall sense of wellbeing. We also have a specialty tea that is decaffeinated and allows for easy ingestion. It has warm hints of peppermint, licorice root and sweet fennel. Each one herb alone can help to calm and aid in a nervous stomach.
Do your research on vitamin supplementation. There are so many innovative brands making effective and beneficial beauty supplements that are a great addition to any retail area or spa menu offering. Remember that as spa professionals, we are not physicians; but we do take an ethical side to healing, especially since this is our main purpose of working in a spa. Massages and facials are a prime way to see what is going on inside of us. We can encourage our clients to combine vitamins and minerals, aiming to create anti-inflammatory compounds that carry oxygen to blood vessels, killing bacteria and viruses, and keeping the rhythm steady for naturally glowing skin. And most importantly, encourage your clients to consume water to stay extra hydrated for supple skin!
Halley Hargonich is the Spa Director for the Palms Hotel and Spa in Miami Beach, an Aveda Spa. Halley leads her spa team through daily operations, building revenue, and improving effectiveness using the Aveda concept on Ayurvedic and Wellness initiatives. Halley also provides as a consultant to build client relations between the hotel guests and hotel employees along with social networking through the Chamber of Commerce.
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REVAMP YOUR RETAIL
STRATEGY 48
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Tips and tricks for a seamless selling experience by Aurora Solis
Retail is a word that is always on the mind of spa owners, estheticians and skin care brands. Bringing in revenue for retail sales supports your ability to treat your clients, as well as your ability to bring home a paycheck. Retail is a crucial component to any business’ success. However, many spas and service providers who focus on their treatments as the main money driver fail to give retail an adequate shot at driving additional revenue. Let’s explore ways to approach retail with a serious attitude for real business success:
and 10 percent from retail. Look at your business from the perspective of revenue ratios, rather than dollar amounts. Every business brings in different average revenue, and everyone charges differently for their services. A standard revenue ratio goal is the best place to start when getting serious about your revenue endeavors.
Believe in What You Are Selling The most important factor in your ability to sell, sell, sell is your belief in what you are selling. If you are really behind the ingredients, philosophy and effectiveness of your retail products, your clients will feel that they deserve a place on their bathroom shelves, as well. Every item on your retail shelf should be connected to a protocol on your menu, in one way or another. This connection helps to strengthen your recommendation and increases the client exposure to the brand or product you are trying to sell. Clients are most likely to purchase something they experienced in the treatment room, so every product should be available to them.
Retail Revenue Breakdown
Education is The Best Sales Strategy
The majority of your income reliably comes from services. Whether you’re an acne curing guru or the best massage therapist in town, your bread and butter will always bring in the bucks with reliable and satisfied clients. Understanding an appropriate breakdown of where your revenue should be coming from is necessary for reliable expectations and knowing where to put your efforts. Generally speaking, the average skin care business should bring in 90 percent of their revenue from services,
When approaching how to sell retail product, treat it as an opportunity to educate your client on the importance of their home care routines. Go over the active ingredients in the product, and make sure they understand how and why the product fits into their routine. Ask what your client is using now, and if they are seeing desirable results. Asking the right questions will help guide you towards making the best product recommendation. Here are some guided retail questions to ask clients when trying to make a sale:
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business Revamp Your Retail Strategy
-Are you seeing results from your current routine? -What is your biggest skin concern? -Do you have a preference for texture or fragrance? -How long do you see yourself spending on your skin care every day? -Are you able to stick to a routine? Find out as much as you can about your client's at-home preferences. Sometimes clients are very adventurous in the treatment room, but prefer something simple and hassle free at home. Other times, clients are hesitant to try strong professional treatments, but are more open to the consistent use of active ingredients at home. Get on your client’s level and find their true retail motive.
Managing Expectations The quickest way to lose a retail client is to promise her the moon and stars when selling at-home skin care. Remember that your professional treatments should be the main source of change in your client’s skin. Home care products are merely a support system for your customized treatment plan for that particular client. However, just because at-home skin care plays a supporting role doesn’t mean it isn’t necessary to see results. Make sure your client understands that if they don’t use it, it won’t work. Proper use and realistic expectations of what their results will be over time helps encourage a trusting client relationship. You also don’t want to oversell your client. If she has only been using a cleanser and a moisturizer her entire life, she probably isn’t ready to add on an exfoliant, serum, eye cream and mask all of a sudden. Overselling product makes clients feel pushed and overwhelmed. Start adding products to your client's routines slowly for the best long terms sales success.
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Shoppers are savvy to estheticians that are trying to sell for the sake of selling. Be open and honest with your client about her skin for the most effective, genuine selling experience.
Accent Product Action A retail shelf full of your favorite skin care line is the first and most necessary step to stocking your retail area. However, just as you are more than an esthetician to your clients, your retail offering should be more than just skin care products. The items you carefully select to retail should be a representation of your brand overall. Do you cater to busy moms? Throw in some lifestyle products like trendy water bottles and travel size products. Are your clients more holistic in nature? Curate three or four of your favorite meditation or natural living books for their reading pleasure.
Don’t be afraid to branch out from just skin care or makeup. If lavish, luxurious treatments are most popular with your clients, stock up on pampering bubble baths and shower accessories. Get a feel for your business’ personality and add some accent retail products that highlight those unique aspects of your brand. Don’t be afraid to branch out from just skin care or makeup. Clients come to you to look and feel better in every aspect of their life. Your retail selection should support that!
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TRADESHOW TALK GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR TRADESHOW EXPERIENCE WITH THESE INSIDER TIPS!
FROM
ATTENDEES
It is important to be able to connect with my suppliers each year face to face to maintain the relationship and keep the lines of communication open. When I call them throughout the year, I know that I am not just a voice over the phone, but rather someone they know and are eager to assist with my requests!
As a spa manager/owner, it is important for me to hire people excited by our industry and interested in learning about new techniques, ingredients and products. When I am interviewing a potential employee, the first thing I ask is if they have been to any spa industry tradeshows and what they learned there.
The spirit of a trade show is in full force when you see and hear our industry pioneers giving valuable information in their demos, workshops and conferences on how to improve my services or myself each year to grow my business!
Trade shows are the main way I make the connections with the spas/estheticians that use our line. It is important for them to know that I am in their corner to help them be as successful as they can be, which in turn makes my business stronger.
We love coming to tradeshows and feeling the energy on the exhibitor floor! Clients are excited to learn our new protocols and crowd around our facial demos for a closer look!
As an educator, I love connecting with estheticians in the small classroom settings. I am able to help each attendee with their specific business strategy and unique brand personality. Keeping in touch after the show allows me to build my consulting business and make a difference in our community!
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FROM
EXHIBITORS
GUT
&GUIDE SKIN Treat your client's skin from the inside out with expert inner beauty knowledge! LNEonline.com
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THE GUT & SKIN
Connection Why skin health starts with internal health and wellness by Dr. Trevor Cates The gut has been getting a lot of attention lately; and more research is emerging about the gut-skin connection. There is a definite link between helping clients with their digestive health and how it impacts their skin. That’s one of the reasons I call skin our “magic mirror.” Skin is the largest organ of the body and because it’s right on the surface, it gives outer information about what’s happening inside
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Gut & Skin Guide
A HEALTHY GUT The human digestive tract contains a delicate balance of microorganisms known as the gut microbiome. Healthy bacteria (such as lactobacillus and bifidobacteria) help keep harmful bacteria in check as well as help protect against parasites or the development of an over growth of candida. It all starts at birth when exposure to our mother’s flora during birth sets the stage for a healthy gut microbiome. But over time, exposure to poor dietary habits, toxins, stress, infections, and certain medications negatively impact the gut microbiome. Even if your clients don’t have digestive symptoms, there’s still a possibility they may have gut issues. If they have chronic skin problems, such as acne or eczema, those conditions can signal a skin microbiome imbalance. Sometimes it’s the first sign the body shows of a gut microbiome imbalance. A healthy gut microbiome protects the gut lining, increases the body’s ability to absorb nutrients, and protects against harmful microorganisms – all of this affects healthy skin. Balancing the gut microbiome can help transform your clients’ skin from the inside out. Of course, what they put on their skin can also improve the quality of the skin on the outside.
HEALTHY SKIN In addition to the gut microbiome, the human body also has a skin microbiome that contains different yet equally important microorganisms living on it, 56
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and protecting it. A healthy skin microbiome protects skin from harmful pathogens and promotes the natural lipid barrier and skin’s immune system. All of this helps prevent acne, eczema, and other skin eruptions, as well as premature aging. For example, protective bacteria residing on human skin prevent harmful bacteria overgrowth, such as Propionibacterium acnes, which is believed to be a major trigger for acne. With acne, the skin microbiome becomes disrupted. Because of this, individuals with acne will get the best results with clearing up their skin they take both an internal and external approach to addressing the disturbance. Other signs the skin microbiome is compromised include dry skin, itching, or any chronic skin problems.
so it creates an inflammatory response in the body. When it comes to skin, this can take the form of eczema, acne, or a number of other skin ailments. To address inflammatory skin issues, it’s important to heal leaky gut. Avoiding food allergens and intolerances will help prevent further damage to the gut lining. In addition, healing the damaged lining with nutrients such as L-Glutamine can help eliminate the hyper-permeability and reduce inflammation. And, to address inflammation, it helps to include anti-inflammatory foods in the diet such as wild-caught salmon, colorful fruits and vegetables, olives, and walnuts. Some of my favorite anti-inflammatory herbs and spices include turmeric, ginger, and rosemary.
DEALING WITH IMBALANCE
PROBIOTICS AND THE SKIN
Related to the delicate balance of our gut microflora is what is known as “leaky gut,” which occurs when the digestive tract becomes more permeable than it should be. This allows for food particles to slip through. When this happens, our immune system sees those particles as foreign substances,
Helping restore a healthy gut microbiome means adding probiotics, or beneficial bacteria, that can be found in certain foods and can promote overall health, including your clients’ skin quality. You can find these probiotics in fermented foods, such as kimchi, sauerkraut, pickled produce, yogurt,
Gut & Skin Guide
and kefir. Prebiotic foods—those that promote the growth of good bacteria in your gut—include dandelion greens, garlic, onions, leeks, and chicory. For some people, eating probiotic and prebiotic-rich foods is not enough and they need additional support. If your clients have digestive symptoms (nausea, bloating, gassiness, heartburn, constipation, diarrhea), have chronic skin issues such as acne and eczema, or have recently taken a course, or multiple courses, of antibiotics, it is likely they will need additional support. In these cases, taking a high-quality probiotic supplement may help your clients get back on track. Consuming probiotics has been shown to reverse skin issues by restoring balance in the gut. This truth spans decades: A report by R. H. Siver published in 1961 indicated that among 300 acne patients given a probiotic, 80 percent saw their acne improve. Similarly, a study by Kim et al. published in 2010 in the journal Nutrition revealed that fifty-six people suffering from acne who consumed a lactobacillus-fermented drink for twelve weeks had less oily secretions and fewer acne lesions. Adding probiotics to the diet has also been shown to help alleviate rosacea. Science shows they may reduce symptoms such as redness, pimples, and dryness that result from the condition. Probiotics have also been used to address psoriasis, and consuming them has been linked to reducing the risk of developing eczema in studies of children whose families had a history of the disease. Probiotics may also help boost collagen production in skin, so it may be beneficial anti-aging.
If your client has parasites or an overgrowth of candida or bacteria, their practitioner can give specific herbal or nutritional supplements, maybe even prescription medications, to address these. Until that’s done, restoring balance to the gut microbiome can be challenging. For most people, eating probioticand prebiotic-rich foods and cutting excess carbohydrates and sugars from the diet is sufficient to restore microbiome balance and restore healthy skin from the inside out. But some individuals will have to work a bit harder to restore the gut microbiome and address leaky gut. In my experience, the majority of my patients with skin issues need assistance with their gut health. And once this is addressed, plus adding in topical support, their skin clears. It can take weeks or months to see a change, but it is possible to see a change as early as two weeks. Most of that is addressing gut microbiome and leaky gut issues. Once that is addressed, it’s important to address other root causes that are often related such as nutritional deficiencies that develop as a result of poor digestion and assimilation of nutrients in their food. And, inflammation is another big
root cause that starts with healing the gut issues, but many patients need additional anti-inflammatory support and sometimes immune support. If your clients have struggled with skin issues for years, especially if they’ve taken or used topical or oral antibiotics and steroids, it’s likely time to address gut issues. They’ll also want to look at things like the impact of stress and an unhealthy diet. These can affect the gut and increase the chance of inflammation, leading to a myriad of skin problems. The good news is there are answers and starting with healthy lifestyle choices is an excellent place to restore glowing skin from the inside-out.
Dr. Trevor Cates is author of the bestselling book Clean Skin From Within. She became known, as “The Spa Dr.” after working in worldrenown spas and was the first woman licensed as a naturopathic doctor in the state of California. Dr. Cates lives in Park City, Utah where she helps patients from around the world achieve graceful aging and glowing skin.
ADDRESSING YOUR CLIENT If your client’s skin and gut issues continue despite a healthy diet and taking high quality probiotics, I highly recommend they see a licensed naturopathic physician or functional medicine doctor who can do specialized testing. This information can help tailor treatment. LNEonline.com
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HOW’S
Your Digestion? Asking your clients about their digestive health is the first step towards glowing skin from the inside out by Cassandra Lanning, LME, NTP
Your clients might think their digestion is fine, but it’s not. You can see it in their face, and in their skin. About 98 percent of the time when I ask clients how their digestion is, they say, “It’s fine.” One percent of the time when I ask clients how their digestion is, they look at me like I’m from Mars. And the last one percent actually knows what I’m talking about when I ask them about their digestion. Digestion is important! Most of the skin conditions you see in the treatment room begin with poor digestion that was ignored, often for many years. When I ask about digestion, after telling me they are “fine,” clients tell me about the probiotics they are taking. Well, that’s great, but probiotics are for your colon. They don’t address the actual breakdown and absorption of nutrients; they are for the “elimination phase,” the recycling station before expulsion from the body.
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Gut & Skin Guide
WHERE IT ALL STARTS Food breakdown and nutrient absorption take place in the stomach and small intestine, and this is where we need to focus our attention. Digestion takes place in your brain, mouth, stomach, and small intestine! Brain - parasympathetic state, which allows the digestion process to “switch on” Mouth - chewing and carbohydrate breakdown Stomach - mixing waves/peristaltic action and protein breakdown Small intestine - trigger location for bile release and fat breakdown/ emulsification Small intestine - majority of nutrient absorption As estheticians, we cannot diagnose internal conditions, nor write dietary meal plans for our clients, but we can recognize what we see on the surface of their skin, and understand how poor digestion is causing that problem. Our job is to read the surface of their skin, and if we can interpret what it’s saying, we will have a window into what is happening on the inside of their body. In order to truly address skin conditions like rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, pigmentation, acne, and even melasma, we have to go back to the beginning of the digestive process; to the state of mind when consuming food.
DIGESTION BEGINS IN THE BRAIN The first thing to understand about digestion is that it begins in the brain with our autonomic nervous system and the particular “state of being” we are in. We have two states of being: sympathetic and parasympathetic.
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Sympathetic is our “fight or flight” state of being. This is when we are under stress and the only body functions that are important for the body to keep operational are the functions that pertain directly to staying alive: breathing, muscle energy, brain function. Digestion is not important in this state. Our other state of being, parasympathetic, is the “rest and digest” state of being. In this state, we are relaxed, our digestion can turn on and start breaking down and utilizing the foods we eat, our brains can relax, our breathing slows, and we can sleep. We must be in the parasympathetic state in order to even begin the digestion process. We have to switch from a sympathetic state to a parasympathetic state. Luckily for us, this is a simple fix. Most of our clients are in a chronic sympathetic state on a daily basis. Jobs, kids, relationships, society, all cause stress. The worse their digestion and absorption are, the worse their chronic
sympathetic state is, and the worse they respond to stress, keeping them locked in an endless cycle.
THE RIGHT STATE OF MIND To get into a parasympathetic state to begin digestion, and specifically to begin stomach acid production (which is a key player in rosacea), one simply needs to sit down and breathe. Deep diaphragmatic breathing will instantly put your client into a parasympathetic state. There are several easy breathing techniques that you can teach your client and implement in the treatment room. Aromatherapy is another helpful tool to get your client into a parasympathetic state of being. Any essential oil that is calming and relaxing will help turn on their digestive system. Some brands of essential oils even have specific parasympathetic or digestive blends ready-made.
Gut & Skin Guide
the duodenum, which is the fat emulsifying trigger. This trigger MUST be tripped in order for bile and pancreatic enzymes to be released to emulsify the fat so it can be absorbed. No trigger, no emulsification, no fat absorption, equals no fat going to the cells to create healthy keratinocytes, which become corneocytes and make up the lipid bi-layer. Hello TEWL and EFAD!
WHAT DO YOU SEE?
Use an essential oil diffuser in all areas of your treatment space, and encourage your client to purchase one for retail that they can use in their own homes.
ACTIVE DIGESTION – WHERE SKIN CONDITIONS BEGIN Once the body is in a parasympathetic state, the next step happens in the mouth with the mechanical breakdown of food by chewing, and the enzymatic breakdown of carbohydrates by saliva. Carbohydrates are sugars, and if these sugars are not broken down into small enough particles to be absorbed in the jejunum, they will pass farther into the small intestine and colon and meet up with, and feed, your candida. Candida eats sugar and excretes an estrogen-like byproduct, and we all know that estrogen drives melasma, that hard to treat pigmentation that shows up on our clients’ skin.
The next stop is the stomach. This is where protein breakdown happens. Adequate stomach acid is required to not only break down the protein, but also to kill any germs that come in on the foods you eat. Adequate stomach acid ensures that you don’t get sick and that these germs don’t pass further into your digestive system where they can pass into your bloodstream and cause inflammation, which is a driver of pigmentation, rosacea, acne, and a host of other conditions, both skin related and non-skin related. Finally we come to fat breakdown, which is imperative if we want to combat Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency (EFAD) that we see in clients with chronic TEWL (trans epidermal water loss). The pH of the stomach has to be low enough so that the pyloric sphincter opens and lets the broken down food come out into the small intestine. Once the food comes out of the stomach, there is an immediate trigger point in
If you see a client with rosacea, it is likely that they are stressed and don’t have enough stomach acid. Clients with pigmentation should be encouraged to reduce their internal inflammation, along with use of requisite sun protection. Those with melisma, specifically, need to concentrate on reducing refined and starchy carbohydrates and chew their food until it is liquid in their mouth! Acne clients also need to be aware of the causes of internal inflammation (stress, low stomach acid, EFAD, etc) in addition to the known acne trigger foods. Those with eczema, psoriasis, and xerotic skin should speak to their physician about supplementing omega 3’s to repair the barrier from the inside, by creating healthy cells with strong cell membranes. Remember, your clients face will tell you everything you need to know about what is going on inside of them. Learn to read the skin, and you will be able to help your clients exponentially!
Cassandra Lanning is an accomplished Master-Aesthetician, Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, Electrologist, and Educator. Cassandra takes a unique, wholistic approach to clinical skin care. She strongly believes in maintaining healthy skin through nutrient rich clinical treatments, simple but effective home care, and a healthy lifestyle. LNEonline.com
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Quench your client’s thirst with skin loving ingredients by Elyse Blakey The secret to glowing, youthful skin may only be a sip away, thanks to a new trend in the beauty industry. Beauty drinks have become an increasingly popular addition to skin care regimens as we see beauty gurus supplementing (or even skipping) the topical ointments to achieve youthful and healthy skin starting from the inside. This comes as no surprise, as these drinks contain functional beauty benefits in the convenience of a daily ingestible liquid. Even more astounding, the results require no injections, fillers or needles, which is a major draw for the liquid.
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Gut & Skin Guide
Drink Your Way to Radiant Skin Many beauty drinks contain collagen to increase elasticity and strengthen skin regeneration. Collagen is interrupted as a part of the natural aging process. This structural protein is vital to maintain youthful skin as it helps to promote a smooth, plump complexion while also providing strength to bones and muscles. Environmental stressors such as sun and pollutant exposure and poor nutrition all contribute to the loss of natural collagen. Beauty drinks are most effective when taken daily. A great way for estheticians to introduce their clients who are unfamiliar with these products is to offer samples after a professional treatment and explain how treatments and homecare will provide the best targeted results.
What is collagen? Collagen is a functional ingredient for all women, as it’s important to keep levels high to protect against fine lines and wrinkles that can be caused by loss of skin elasticity over time. To help combat signs of aging, estheticians are increasingly recommending to start taking col64
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lagen supplements as early as in your mid-20’s. Collagen begins depleting in the earliest stages of aging and it’s often suggested to get a head start in combatting collagen loss for healthier, more beautiful skin. Women produce less collagen than men do, and this collagen is actually lost at a rate of about one percent per year. This means that women can lose almost half of the collagen from their skin before they turn 50 years old. Although this is a natural process, the effects are visible – from excessive dryness to dull, sagging skin. Beauty drinks are now becoming a more practical way for women to replenish their collagen levels and gain an overall healthier look.
Are beauty drinks effective? Liquid formulas are a 360 degree approach to promoting a youthful and supple appearance. Think of these drinks as food for your skin. When ingested, the key ingredients are absorbed quicker and reach the bloodstream faster to supply essential nutrients to the skin and produce lasting benefits for its overall appearance.
Fast absorption is key in this process, as it supports the skin’s natural ability to synthesize collagen, fight free radical damage, and become more hydrated and supple. Women are recommended to speak with their physician to receive more information about beauty drinks and should also check with their physician if they have health concerns, or if they are under 18 or pregnant.
Are all beauty drinks the same? Although these liquid supplements contain concentrated amounts of collagen, the efficacy of these products may also be determined by the potency of the ingredients. Some drinks include special hydrolyzed collagen, among other vital ingredients including antioxidants and vitamins, to support overall health of the skin and its mechanisms. Their formulations provide a unique blend of nutrients based on biological science and technology. Bioactive peptides help to stimulate natural collagen production to maintain adequate collagen levels in the skin. These hydrolyzed collagen nutrients are easily absorbed into the body for faster
Gut & Skin Guide
results. Clinical studies have shown that hydrolyzed collagen can significantly increase density of the skin. Ceramides are also a major component of the skin, as they support skin’s cellular matrix. They help to protect against moisture loss and increase skin’s firmness by replenishing skin’s natural moisture barrier. A potent plant-based extract derived from wheat seed is a natural gluten free ceramide. These ceramides have been shown to enhance skin hydration. Antioxidants and vitamins protect against free radical damage, which not only causes premature aging but it is also a main contributor to inflammation of the skin. Beauty drinks with blends of hyaluronic acid, green tea leaf extract, organic acai juice and pomegranate extract yield a high Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) value which represents their ability to provide skin with key antioxidants to fight free radical damage. These dietary antioxidants significantly decrease the adverse effects of aging. Biotin, often referred to as the beauty vitamin, protects skin again environmental elements while preventing water loss from harmful rays of the sun. This ingredient also contributes to strengthening hair, skin and nails for a healthy appearance. Many professional beauty drinks on the market have been clinically tested with proven results. Results include a significant increase in skin elasticity and skin moisture in just a few weeks.
ception. The secret to youthful skin is increasing skin’s firmness, reducing wrinkle depth, and restoring hydration. Beauty drinks offer these benefits while heading straight to the source for long lasting anti-aging effects. Getting your clients their daily dose of youth has never been easier!
Get Skinspired
Encourage your clients to get creative and add their beauty supplements to pancake mix, mix into their gelatin or pudding, or even include in their baking mixtures. However they take their beauty drink, they will still be receiving the nutrients and benefits needed to feed their skin from the inside out and complement your professional treatments.
Beauty drinks are perfect additions to a breakfast smoothie, stirred into a hot cereal or coffee drink. The drinks can fit easily into any lifestyle or daily routine as there is no application to the skin necessary. Clients can toss a flavored collagen shot right into their purse or gym bag for an on-the-go skin pick-me-up.
Elyse Blakey is a licensed esthetician who travels all over the world to train estheticians on the newest formulas and ingredients from Image Skincare. She is dedicated to help the world Age Later.
The Beauty Drink Phenomenon Applying collagen to specific areas of the skin will only affect those areas and can’t offer long-term advantages. Whether it’s stirred into your morning coffee or taken straight, the entire body reaps the beneficial nutrients and proteins to repair and support tissues over time. We’ve all heard the saying, “You are what you eat,” and in this case, what your clients are drinking is no exLNEonline.com
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NUTRITION IN THE
Treatment Room 66
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How to address your client’s nutrition while respecting the scope of your practice by Rachael Pontillo, M.Msc, CIHC, LE As effective as topical professional esthetic products and treatments can be, if the cause of a client’s skin care issue is internal, the problem will persist until that cause has been addressed. Whether your client has acne, rosacea, melasma, eczema, psoriasis— or simply wants to maintain a healthy glow as she ages—the best results come from a truly integrative, inside out and outside in approach. Many estheticians are knowledgeable about certain foods, dietary supplements, or lifestyle changes that are known to help improve the overall appearance of the skin, as well as specific skin conditions. Estheticians now frequently choose to pursue continuing education in the areas of holistic health coaching, functional nutrition, or modalities such as Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine, which utilize certain foods and nutritional supplements as a means to restore internal balance for optimal topical results. However, unless that esthetician is also a state licensed nutrition or medical professional, their scope of practice is just as limited as that of a regular esthetician. Just as there is constant flux in the world of esthetics regulation and licensure, the same is true in the world of nutrition. Not every state licenses nutritionists, and in those states, the only people who can legally “practice nutrition” are Registered Dietitians and licensed medical professionals. In those states, health coaches, functional diagnostic nutrition practitioners, nutrition therapy practitioners, functional medicine coaches or practitioners, and any other “practitioners” who have undergone continuing education and earned certification—are limited in how they can legally practice.
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Nutrition Certifications The knowledge gained in accredited training programs will enrich an esthetician’s overall knowledge of important functions, such as digestion and detoxification, which are key to healthy skin. However, as it is with certain esthetic continuing education programs and certifications such as holistic aesthetics, medical aesthetics, and oncology aesthetics, gaining nutrition education and earning a credential does not give any scope of practice beyond what local and state laws decree. Having a nutrition education, though, will expand how you approach working with clients, what kind of information you gather during a consultation, and will also give you additional tools to offer them to help them achieve faster, and more sustainable results.
Within Your Scope An esthetician’s scope of practice, in most cases, though it may vary depending on location, is to cleanse the skin and improve its appearance with the application of topical products, color cosmetics, and hair removal. Esthetic treatments and modalities may be utilized for the same purposes, as long as they only affect the epidermis, and are only performed on the head, neck, shoulders, and décolleté. An esthetician may never diagnose or treat any skin condition or disease, and may not claim that any of their treatments or recommendations prevent or treat any skin disease. An unlicensed nutritionist (most are), and health coaches have similar limitations. They can make general nutrition and lifestyle recommendations to improve overall health and wellbeing, but they may never claim to diagnose health conditions, or that their recommendations can prevent or treat any illness or disease. According to the Institute for Integrative Nutrition, “A health coach is a supportive mentor and wellness authority helping clients feel their best
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through food and lifestyle changes by tailoring individualized wellness programs to meet their clients' needs.”1 Currently, there are no laws that prohibit a certified health coach’s right to practice, as long as they remain within their scope.2
these practitioners must be extremely careful that they are not presenting the information or their recommendations in a way that implies that they are preventing, diagnosing, or treating a disease or disorder.
General Recommendations Functional Nutrition Multiple other certifications exist that utilize the terms “functional nutrition” or “nutrition therapy” or “functional medicine.” These programs teach the utilization of functional lab tests to help identify food sensitivities, imbalances in the gut micro biome, hormone imbalances, and multiple other potential causes of skin issues. However, these practitioners must work under the direction of a licensed physician or medical director; and not all states permit these tests to be ordered, even by a physician. While the results of these tests can provide excellent information to help guide recommendations,
It is not illegal to offer general food and lifestyle recommendations with the intention of improving one’s overall health, appearance, and wellbeing without a certification or license. Some general recommendations that are safe to make are: • Increase water intake. Most people are chronically dehydrated, and though drinking enough water is not a substitute for hydrating the skin topically, every cell in the body requires hydration to function optimally. When the skin is dehydrated—even in its deepest levels—its ability to perform its sensory and protective functions decreases.
Gut & Skin Guide
• Add more fresh fruits and vegetables to the diet. Fresh fruits and vegetables bring bioavailable vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids into the body in a way that no supplement can. While certain supplements may help some people, they are not a substitute for a healthy, balanced diet that’s rich in fresh fruits and veggies. Most people benefit from eating three to four servings each of fresh fruits and veggies.3 • Add healthy fats to the diet. “Consuming enough healthy fats from whole food sources is good for the skin, because fat is an important part of the skin. The skin is comprised of many different types of cells and structures which are partly held together and protected by a layer of lipids (fats).”4 Internally, essential fatty acids help maintain cellular integrity, and keep cells themselves hydrated by sealing in moisture. Fresh leafy green vegetables, nuts and seeds, pasture-raised animal foods like grass-fed beef and pastured eggs, and small fatty fish are all excellent whole food sources of essential fatty acids. • Reduce or eliminate refined sugars. Sugar is considered by many to be the number one enemy of overall health and healthy skin. It creates an inflammatory environment within the body, which compromises the body’s immune system and wound healing functions, promotes overgrowth of Candida Albicans and other pathogenic microbes, and throws the body’s ability to regulate blood sugar off balance. • Reduce or eliminate processed, packaged, junk, and fast foods. Food-like substances that come in boxes or cans, or that are obtained from vending machines fast or food restaurants are high in refined sugar, sodium, and unhealthy fats. Fresh, whole foods are the best source of nutrients that benefit the skin and overall health.
It is important to follow local and state laws for where these conversations need to happen. Some states require that consultations happen outside of the treatment room completely. It’s also important to check with your insurance company. There are liability insurance plans available for certified health coaches and nutrition professionals, but you must check with your current policy to see what their rules about nature of consultations are. Finally, your client should sign a consent form and/or waiver, acknowledging that the information you are providing is general and educational in nature, and is not intended to diagnose, prevent, or treat any disease; and is not a substitute for advice or service from a licensed nutrition or medical professional. References: 1. “Health Coaching.” Institute for Integrative Nutrition, Institute for Integrative Nutrition, www.integrativenutrition.com/health-coaching. 2. “Advocacy.” IAHC, International Association for Health Coaches, iahcnow.org/ advocacy/. 3. Petre, Alina. “How Many Servings of Vegetables Should You Eat per Day?” Healthline, Healthline Media, 26 Nov. 2017, www.healthline.com/nutrition/ servings-of-vegetables-per-day#section7. 4. “Healthy Fats Are Necessary for Healthy, Glowing Skin.” Nutritional Aesthetics® Alliance, Nutritional Aesthetics® Alliance, LLC, 20 Jan. 2018, www.nutritionalaesthetics. com/healthy-fats-for-healthy-skin/.
Rachael Pontillo is the bestselling author of the book “Love Your Skin, Love Yourself”. She is an international health coach, licensed esthetician and natural skin care formulator and educator. Pontillo is the president and co-founder of the Nutritional Aesthetics™ Alliance, creator of the healthy lifestyle blog, Holistically Haute™ and the online course, Create Your Skincare. She is currently pursuing her Ph.D. in Holistic Life Counseling, and holds certifications in metaphysical science, detoxification, acupressure, Reiki, Chinese facial diagnosis and Ayurveda.
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IS IT REALLY ORGANIC? Understand the complex
regulations that give organic skin care products their label by Cathi Bates With the ever-growing desire for greener and healthier products, the word organic is being used and often deliberately misused by companies to present an environmentally responsible public image to imply that their product is a healthier, safer choice. This is greenwashing. It is the number one cause for the word “organic� losing its credibility and leading to clients thinking organic is hype and not worth the money. You can use this to your advantage. Let your clients know about greenwashing and that your spa has taken steps to make sure that the products your spa uses and sells are truly organic. It establishes your products as superior and that your spa is ahead of the curve.
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organic & wellness Is It Really Organic?
YOUR SPA CAN STAND OUT There are strict regulations for being an organic product and even for using the word “organic” in a product’s name, label or description. The widespread misuse of the word organic makes it very difficult to enforce these regulations. Little is being done to educate consumers on how to interpret the misinformation and aggressive greenwashing campaigns. This makes it easy for companies to take advantage of the public’s desire for more natural and healthy products and perpetuates the spreading of misleading and incorrect information. Have your spa known for honest, organic products. Your spa has higher standards.
THE CERTIFIED DIFFERENCE Claiming a product is organic because it contains organic ingredients is like claiming to be an airline pilot because you have flown in a plane. In order to create a certified organic product, strict guidelines from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Certified Organic National Organic Program (NOP) must be met, adhered to and monitored. All ingredients used in production must be compliant with the NOP, certified organic with organic documentation or be from a short list of approved non agricultural ingredients. The same regulations apply to the food, health and beauty industries. By having to comply with food regulations, certified organic skin care products are safe enough to eat.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON THE LABEL Look for the USDA seal. Only certified organic products can display the seal. Look for the Accrediting Agency. Organic product labels must display the USDA NOP accredited certifying agency. Technically, the USDA does not certify anything. The certification 76
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process is done by an independent USDA accredited agency. The agency conducts the certifying process in compliance with USDA regulations and they are the only certifying agencies in the U.S.
All Organic Ingredients Must Have an Asterisk An Asterisk denotes that the ingredient is certified organic. Ingredients without asterisks indicate they are on the short list of USDA approved ingredients that cannot be certified because they are not grown agriculturally (salt, for example).
Ingredient Panel Both the common and the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients name (INCI) scientific/Latin name must be written on the ingredient panel.
You are permitted to choose which name you want to come first, common or INCI.
THE NOP HAS FOUR CATEGORIES OF ORGANIC COMPLIANCE Certified Organic 100% All ingredients must have a certification of 100 percent organic content. The USDA Seal is allowed on the packaging and the identity of the certifying agency must be displayed verifying that the product meets USDA category standards.
Certified Organic 95-99% The combined ingredients must have an average certification of 95-99 percent organic content. This allows up to 5 percent of the total ingredients to be
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organic & wellness Is It Really Organic?
Seal, represent the finished product as organic, or use the phrase “made with organic ingredients.”
non-certified organic agricultural products that are not commercially available as certified organic or are on a short list of nonagricultural approved ingredients. All ingredients must comply with the USDA NOP. The USDA Seal is allowed on the packaging and the identity of the certifying agency must be displayed verifying that the product meets USDA category standards.
Specific Ingredient Listings Less Than 70 Percent Remaining ingredients do not need to comply with USDA organic regulations. The certified organic ingredient can only be identified as organic with an asterisk on the ingredient panel of the label. This product cannot display the USDA Seal or claim it is organic.
Made with Organic 70-94% The combined ingredients must have an average certification of 70-94% organic content. All ingredients must comply with the USDA NOP. This product may display the words “made with organic (insert specific ingredient here).” The product must display the certifying agency on the package to verify that the product meets USDA category standards. It cannot display the USDA
What It Takes: The Certification Process • The product’s formula must contain only allowed ingredients. • Manufacturers of organic products must be certified and undergo inspections to meet all NOP manufacturing
requirements and agree to periodical inspections. They must keep an active logbook of all ingredients and production runs. • All layout and labeling information must be completed and submitted ensuring both the label and product comply with NOP regulations. • All formulas must be mathematically calculated and documented proving the organic percentage is in accordance with the NOP category the product is in. • All NOP documents must be submitted for each/all ingredients from every supplier you use or ever want to use stating how the product was produced and what organic content the ingredient holds. •All information on documents, labels, NOP’s, and mathematical calculations must match exactly. All ingredients names must be spelled correctly and
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organic & wellness Is It Really Organic?
match on every document. If they do not, if there is one typo, it will be rejected and must be corrected before re-submitting. • All of the above must be completed and submitted at the same time. This process must be repeated for each and every product with a different label even if the product comes in two sizes, each one requires its own label and submission. Once certified, you may not make any changes. The certification process demands an extreme amount of dedication and commitment just to have a single product certified, let alone an entire line of certified organic skin & body care products. Due to the challenges of meeting these requirements, there are only a handful of U.S. companies offering an entire line of certified organic skin care products.
The certification process demands an extreme amount of dedication and commitment. It may surprise you to learn that it is the label that actually carries the certification, not the company. This allows companies to have both non-organic products as well as certified organic products. It also allows companies to have their products certified when they are not the manufacturer. The product is submitted for certification under the manufacturer's accreditation, but the company owns the label and its certification.
Why The Seal Matters
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Although many of the products being sold as “organic” are great and are a healthier choice, it is false advertising if they are not really organic. They may contain unwanted ingredients and clients end up purchasing products that are not what they think they are. The USDA NOP strict regulations regarding ingredients, production and labeling requirements ensure a product's authenticity and safety. It is the only United States governing body that certifies and prohibits the use of harmful toxic ingredients such as aluminum, EDTA, GMOs, nanoparticles, petrochemicals, synthetic colors or fragrances, propylene glycol or Triclosan. The USDA Organic Seal ensures the product’s authenticity. Using and offering certified organic products is also the best way to make sure all the ingredients in a product are safe and that your clients get what they think they are buying. Even if you don’t believe organic is the way to go, I think we can all agree that a product should be what it says it is and clients should get what they pay for.
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Cathlene Bates is the Founder and CEO of Conscious Choice, a luxury brand of certified organic, cruelty-free skin and body care products packaged completely in non plastic. Her innovatively packaged retail product line along with accompanying backbar products with eco-friendly protocols are redefining being green.
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Probiotic Cooling Mask A pre and pro-biotic blend that helps strengthen the skin’s natural defenses and promotes radiance. Containing Polymnia Sonchifolia (Root) Juice, Turmeric Extract, and Lime Extract • Turmeric Root Extract - Soothes Stressed Skin • Lime Extract - Brightening and Skin Renewal • Polymnia Sonchifolia (Root) Juice, Lactobacillus Strengthens Skin’s Defenses
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DAILY RITUALS FOR THE INSPIRED ESTHETICIAN
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POSITIVE DAILY HABITS TO BREED SUCCESS IN YOUR SPA BUSINESS by Maxine Drake
In order to stay inspired, we must do things that inspire us. It is important to make time to do activities and practices that motivate and get us excited about getting out of bed in the morning. When we feel inspired, we have a greater chance of inspiring others. We also become more passionate, and experience more joy in our work and in our life. Productivity levels will also increase.
OUR SUCCESS ISN’T DEFINED BY WHAT WE DO, BUT RATHER BY WHO WE ARE AS A PERSON. Your positive daily habits should be ritualized. Quiet time and journaling offer moments to reflect deeply. Exercise and learning keep us motivated and excited. Practicing these daily rituals is a fantastic way to stay centered, balanced, and energized so that we can be our best serving others.
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organic & wellness Daily Rituals For The Inspired Esthetician
GET INSPIRED FIRST THING IN THE MORNING I recommend getting into a morning routine with your new found rituals before your day gets away from you. I encourage my coaching clients to embrace morning rituals to help them grow internally, improve relationships with clients, and live a more fulfilled life. Get up early and do things that nurture yourself both physically and emotionally before you take care of anyone else. Caring for yourself first is not a selfish act. Fill your own well first, so that you have plenty of energy and love to share with others throughout your day. Many times, we have good intentions of making time for ourselves, but then the day gets rolling and we never get around to it. Or we just can’t seem to find the time because we are so busy. Then, another day goes by where we have neglected ourselves once again. When we neglect ourselves, our reservoir becomes dry. We may even feel depleted. If you ritualize the habit of getting up early and practice self nurturing daily, it won’t be long until you slip into a routine. Become an early riser. Get up early so that you have the time for your rituals. They always say, “We make time for the things that are important to us.” These rituals are vital to your personal growth and professional development as a spa industry professional. I practiced these rituals as a spa owner, and continue to do so as a spa business coach today. Embrace these four daily rituals to help keep you motivated to have a more positive influence in the world around you and increase productivity:
QUIET TIME Now that you’re getting up early, don’t reach for your phone first thing in the morning to check your schedule or get lost in social media, as tempting as
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that may be. Instead, start your day with quiet time. Quiet time could also be a meditation or a prayer session. This inner silence allows for creativity to flow. It’s difficult to come up with good ideas for your business in the midst of noise or stressful situations. Creativity needs space, so making time to sit in solitude opens up the channels which allow your imagination to explore new possibilities. New possibilities can lead to new ideas which fuel your passion. Passion gives you the inspiration, strength, and determination to put your new ideas into action. We live in such a noisy world in this digital age and it’s becoming more important than ever to make time for solitude. We are becoming less and less
present. Having alone time offers moments for deep reflection or contemplation. This allows us to get to know ourselves on a deeper level. There is no right or wrong way to sit in silence or meditate. Fifteen minutes in the morning could be all you need to make a difference in your day.
JOURNAL Keep a positive mindset by recording the things that matter most in a daily journal. Your life matters. Write anything from daily progress to your most cherished dreams and visions. Daily journaling can be one of the most powerful habits you incorporate into your morning rituals. Writing down your thoughts can give great clarity, inspiration, and increase self-awareness.
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organic & wellness Daily Rituals For The Inspired Esthetician
EXERCISE Let’s face it; most of us could be better in this department. You might be asking, “Well, what does exercise have to do with inspiration?” The answer is: everything. Exercise can improve problem solving and creative thought. It also improves sleep quality, reduces stress, and increases your energy levels during the day. Dopamine is dumped in your body when you exercise, which is pretty much like taking a “happy pill.” Feeling happy and full of energy gives us fuel to stay motivated throughout the day. While it isn’t my intention to lay out an entire fitness plan, moving your body on a daily basis can have a positive influence on your well being and enhance your mood. I recommend doing something that you enjoy so that you have a better chance of sticking with it. This could be anything from yoga in your living room to frequenting a local gym. It could be a bike ride in your neighborhood or playing tennis with friends.
What we do on a daily basis defines who we are. self-assured! What we do on a daily basis defines who we are. Allow daily rituals to become part of your day to open up more happiness, joy, and productivity into your life. Maxine Drake’s mission is to elevate the esthetics industry through leadership and business and marketing education. She believes this training must come first to have a profitable practice, and created The Esthetician Business Academy. Today, Maxine helps beauty professionals improve their business and personal growth. The Esthetician Business Academy helps skin care leaders achieve optimum business growth with smart, effective marketing training that serves their higher purpose.
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LEARNING If you want to feel more confident and revived, make it a point to learn new things. Let your mornings be the time to learn about a new technique, skin physiology, or product ingredients. What if you read an article per day from one of our trade publications? Do you think you’d feel more confident and positive? Absolutely. If you’re a busy person, try listening to a podcast or an audiobook by someone who inspires you. This is a fantastic way to set your day in motion. When we set aside learning time, we feel empowered and
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I am often asked, “How do I journal? What do I write about?” These are great questions. I always answer the same: There is really no right or wrong way to journal. We are all unique. If you are feeling stuck and not sure where to begin - start with gratitude. A grateful heart always puts things into perspective. When we write down what we’re thankful for, we tend to forget about the little stuff. Another thing I recommend is to write down the five things that need to happen today to make your day spectacular. What five things need to happen today that will bring you closer to your goals? When we list these items, we have a greater chance of bringing them to fruition. In a sense, we hold ourselves accountable by writing down five goals. If you are feeling stressed, write down your worries. Sometimes getting things off your chest and on to paper brings great relief so that you can accomplish things that matter most. Fear, doubt, or frustration can hold us back without even knowing it. After you’ve written down what’s bothering you, I invite you to tear out the page in your journal and shred it into tiny pieces. Doing so helps you let go of those thoughts that weighed you down.
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MASTER THE ART OF MAKEUP WITH BEKE BEAU, PHILADELPHIA, PA
SERVICE & RETAIL What is the best part about working with makeup? I get so much satisfaction from meeting and helping women; whether they’re brides, private clients who want a lesson, or commercial clients. There’s never a dull moment, and I have a great time getting to know each person who sits in my chair. When did you decide to become a makeup artist? I was lucky to have an opportunity to assist and then freelance for makeup mogul Laura Geller in New York City, where I was living at the time. That was over 25 years ago, and I was almost immedi-
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ately working on high-end weddings because of Laura’s devoted clientele. What approaches did you take to implement your services? I used my income from being a makeup artist to support myself as I earned a Bachelor’s then a Master’s Degree. That got me a job at a large non-profit organization, which brought me from NYC to Philadelphia. I returned to makeup after being let go because I wanted to be independent and creative. What is the most difficult part about offering makeup services? The most challenging aspect of my work is in managing client expectations, especially in light of the unrealistic imagery and marketing that’s happening in print and social media. Which of your makeup services has been most profitable? Bridal makeup is the cornerstone of my business, and always has been, thanks to the foundations laid by my experiences with Laura Geller, and then with another successful NY artist, Kimara Ahnert. Second to that would be my make-up lessons. What kind of special makeup treatments/specials do you offer? I’m a licensed esthetician as well as a makeup artist, so I’m able to offer brow shaping and tinting, lash tinting and dermaplaning to my clients who might truly benefit from these services.
MAKEUP AREA Please describe your makeup area. I recently moved to a larger space that will accommodate both a private studio for my personal services as well as
a small classroom where I will provide training to aspiring makeup artists, and targeted workshops for women. What prompted you to choose the size/design for each specific area? I’ve had a plan for some time to provide high-quality, innovative training for people interested in becoming professional make-up artists. Most of my work is done on location, so the space I require for that is smaller.
TEAM MEMBERS How do you select your employees/makeup artists? I look for a spark of talent in make-up application. Most of my artists have been hired after I advertised a position, but more recently I’ve taken on individuals who contacted me directly. What specific qualities do you look for in a member of your staff? My clients are my first priority, so I want to know that my staff feel the same way and are committed to representing my business to the best of their ability. Being a kind, responsible person is key
MARKETING How do you promote your makeup services? I’m fortunate at this point to get a lot of my work through referrals, from planners, photographers and past clients. I get booked far in advance for most weddings, and while I end up turning down a lot of work because I only hire artists who meet my standards, I can feel good in knowing that I’m focusing on quality over quantity.
Please describe your methods of promotion. My online portfolio on my website is the best promotion I have. It speaks to my aesthetic and will appeal to a client who is a good fit for my business. At the same time, I can’t overlook the importance role taken on by Instagram, so I recently established an Instagram business account as another way to deliver examples of my work.
INSIDER TIPS What trends are yo u currently seeing in
the industry? I’m not a fan of the ex treme contouring, highligh ting and styling that’s the main attraction on so cial media right now. I sti ck to using make-up to help women feel beautifu l and like themselves, but in a modern wa y.
What advice would you pass along to other makeup artists just starti ng out? The client is everythin g. Respect not only the ir needs, but their uniqu e beauty. Show them that you care sincerely ab out their needs and goals , and the rest will come .
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FIVE WAYS TO APPLY BLUSH Use a subtle hue to sculpt your client’s face for any occasion by Cristina Beecham
Spring is a time for natural, fresh makeup with a pop of color. While bronzed skin is ideal for a glowing summer look, and matte skin is perfect for sultry winter vibes, a bright and healthy application of blush is the mainstay for springtime beauty. Clients are often heard saying, “Not too much blush!” or, “I don’t want to look like a clown!” But, a subtle rosy hue often makes the skin look more natural, and less washed out. While there are many different options for formula and application tools, the shape of the blush application is often overlooked. Just like anything in makeup, there is no “one size fits all” shape for blusher. Here are five flattering blush application techniques to enhance every skin type and face shape:
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image Five Ways To Apply Blush
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HIGH CHEEKBONE
Just like contouring and highlighting, blush application can be used to trick the eye and create the illusion of a more lifted face. This application technique uses a high blush application on the cheekbone to achieve a sculpted look. How to Apply: Starting under the outer corner of the eye, apply the blush in small circular motions, sweeping towards the top of the ear. The blush should be focused slightly above the client’s natural cheekbone to fake a more lifted one. Be careful not to bring the blush in past the outer corner of the eye, as this will bring the eye down and cause a sagging effect. Who is it for? This type of application is best for more mature clients who are starting to see the effects of aging on their facial structure. Those with loss of volume or sagging skin will benefit from this high cheekbone application. When working with fine lines and wrinkles, it is best to choose a matte blush for a smoothing effect. Avoid shimmery or glittery blushes that will settle into creases and look unnatural.
2
APPLE OF THE CHEEK
Great for a youthful and vibrant look, applying blush right to the apples of the cheeks is great for younger clients. Cream blush is ideal for this application, as the dewiness of the product will compliment the fresh, youthful application. How to Apply: Ask your client to smile ever so slightly. Too much of a smile will raise the cheek bone, causing your blush application to be higher than desired and will fall as soon as the client stops smiling. This will leave a sagging effect. Clients with wrinkles or fine lines should not smile during application, as this will not allow the blush to apply smoothly to the surface of the skin. If using a cream blush, use your fingers to warm the product and apply in a patting motion to the center of the apples and blend outwards in a spiraling pattern. Do not bring the blush inwards past the center of the eye, as this will create an unnatural narrowing effect. If using a powder blush, a smaller brush is ideal for this application so that you can place the product directly on the desired area. Who is it for? This style of application is best for younger to middle aged clients without lines or wrinkles who are looking for a fresh, youthful finish. This application is not recommended for older clients, as it can create an overly “jolly” look that does not suite more mature women. 92
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image Five Ways To Apply Blush
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HORIZONTAL SWEEP
Applying the blush in a horizontal line across the top of the cheekbone in the center of the face is a great way to widen a very narrow face. Using blush to play tricks on the eye while simultaneously adding color and luminosity to the face is a great one-two-punch to keep in your toolkit. How to Apply: Starting under the center of the eye at the top of your client’s cheek, begin to sweep the blush horizontally towards the outside corner of the eyebrow. Although it may feel unnatural, be sure to keep the application in a straight, horizontal line. You can blend the application afterwards with a clean blush for a subtle effect, but a straight application is needed to complete the illusion. A cream or a powder blush can be used for this technique. Avoid shimmery or glittery powders, as this can compete and clash with many eye looks and draw too much attention to the under eyes. Who is it for? Horizontally sweeping blush is great for those with narrow faces. Clients with aging or sagging skin can benefit from this look, as it will counteract the loss of fullness that many mature women experience in the cheek area.
4
SUN KISSED
For that “just been in the sun” flush, application at the top of the cheekbone and on the temples creates a kissed by the sun look and a natural flush of healthy color. Sun-flushed cheeks are is great for spring and summer daytime outings, as well as editorial beauty shoots. This old-school blusher method is making a serious comeback this spring! How to Apply: Similar to the horizontal application technique, start under the center of the eye at the top of the cheek. This time, instead of applying in a straight horizontal line towards the outside of the face, apple in a slight smiley face arch that dips right under the outside corner of the eye. Next, take the blush right to your client’s temple. This style of application is perfectly suited with a more red-toned blush, as it gives the appearance of a slightly sunburned skin and a healthy flush. Finally, use a clean buffing brush to thoroughly blend the product for a naturally lifted look. Who is it for? This sun-kissed look is great for young clients and for casual, daytime occasion makeup. We always encourage our clients to protect their skin from the sun, but it’s always fun to fake a summer vacation with some strategic blush placement!
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image Five Ways To Apply Blush
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DOWNWARD STROKES
For clients with wider or more rounded face shapes, creating the illusion of a slimmer face can be achieved with blush. Applying in a downward motion tricks the eye to focus on the center of the face in a vertical sweep, rather than horizontal one. How to apply: Starting in the middle section of the apple, just under the center of the client’s eye, begin to blend the blush in a downward motion. The use of vertical blending, rather than horizontal, will create the illusion of a more narrow face. Be sure to keep the blush between the center of the eye and the edge of the brow, as to not unintentionally create a wider looking face shape. Who is it for? This method is great for those seeking a face-slimming application. Avoid using this technique on more mature, aging skin, as you want the makeup to add volume, rather than take it away.
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Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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A LITTLE BRONZEY
This Spring, Morphe introduces Brontour, a beauty concept that simply ‘glows’ together. The unique compact contains a matte contour shade and a radiant bronzer pressed together to create a soft and seamless finish. There are six shade duos in total: Glitterati, Frenemy, Celebutante, Vlogger, Fantabulous and Showmance.
877.366.7743 morphe.com
THE ISLAND LIFE FOR EYES
MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS
Image News
Escape to the tropics with Palladio’s Eyeland Vibes Eyeshadow Palettes. These paraben-free and botanical enriched eyeshadow palettes are available in four curated shade assortments: Sandbar (nude), Paradise (brights), Cabana (smokey) and Horizon (rose gold) and each features 10 complementary shades in shimmering to matte finishes that range from seductive nudes to vibrant hues.
palladiobeauty.com
BROWS THAT WOW!
Never have a hair out of place again! Nicck Townsend’s Precision Brow Kit is a simple solution for any and all brow needs. This kit of essentials contains the Precision point tweezers, slant tweezers, and the Precision brow scissors. Due to the Precision Brow Kit’s sleek pouch, you will never have to leave it home. Brows will be flawless 24/7!
443.854.6425 niccktownsend.com
THE POWER OF PURE
The key to healthy, beautiful, radiant skin is an effective skin care line combined with clean cosmetics. Gina Marie Makeup is intended to enhance natural beauty and should not contribute to skin problems such as acne, blemishes, fine lines, premature aging. The entire collection of clean cosmetics can be mixed with water, are light in texture, natural looking, highly pigmented to give you versatility, and cruelty free.
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June 2-4, 2018
Education Days June 2-4 Exhibit Floor Open June 3-4
with spa business forum
The beauty industry’s most important show delivering the education you need to succeed
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Register by April 21 to SAVE $15 Off Day of Show Price Orlando/Orange County Convention Center • Orlando, Florida #PremiereDAYSPA For show passes or information on all Premiere events premiereshows.com • 800-335-7469 Beauty Industry Professionals & Students Only
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100.............Altair Instruments.................................................altairinstruments.com.................................................. 243 78...............Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics...............beauinstitute.com........................................................ 167 6,7..............Bio-Therapeutic....................................................bio-therapeutic.com.................................................... 139 79...............Bon Vital...............................................................bonvital.com................................................................ 265 17...............Celluma................................................................... biophotas.com............................................................... 295 86...............Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc...................................dr-jeff.com................................................................... 248 35...............Dermaswiss..........................................................dermaswiss.com......................................................... 245 45...............Dermaware...........................................................dermaware.com.......................................................... 256 2,3..............Eminence Organic Skin Care................................eminenceorganics.com............................................... 157 99...............Equipro USA.........................................................equipro-bty.com.......................................................... 242 51...............G.M. Collin Skin Care...........................................gmcollin.com............................................................... 115 77...............Grandelash MD.....................................................grandelashmd.com..................................................... 286 23...............Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................halecosmeceuticals.com............................................. 133 4,5..............The HydraFacial Company...................................hydrafacial.com........................................................... 201 85...............Industry Cosmetics...............................................gomyskin.com............................................................. 330 38,39..........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia............philadelphia.skincareshows.com 72,73..........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas............dallas.skincareshows.com 9.................Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics.....ladyburd.com.............................................................. 119 47...............LightStim International.........................................lightstim.com............................................................... 164 11...............Lira Clinical...........................................................liraclinical.com............................................................. 203 81...............Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research..............lucrece.com................................................................. 263 33...............NuFree - Finipil.....................................................nufree-professionals.com............................................ 348 97...............Premiere Shows Inc..............................................premiereshows.com.................................................... 194 95...............Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................rejuvilab.com............................................................... 149 15...............Revitalash.............................................................revitalash.com............................................................. 346 80...............Select Spa Source/Hairaway................................resinebyhairaway.com................................................. 253 21...............Sesha Skin Therapy..............................................seshaskin.com............................................................ 271 37...............Skin Script RX......................................................skinscriptrx.com.......................................................... 289
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Introducing DTX the DiamondTome速 Experience App for iPad速
The DTX - DiamondTome Experience is a fun, new interactive App. Clients can learn what DiamondTome Exfoliation can do for their skin. In just minutes, clients will be able to virtually treat their skin conditions using one of our virtual wands. This is your opportunity to make those results - their reality! #upyourskingame with DiamondTome and download the DTX App on your iPad thru the App Store today. iPad速 and App Store速 are registered trademarks of Apple Inc.
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