LNE & SPA April 2021 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals April 2021

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FROM THE

EDITOR

Happy Spring! With the season in full swing, many clients will be looking to rejuvenate their skin. Our Guide on Exfoliation goes a step further to teach you how to properly exfoliate sensitive and acne-prone skin types so that all of your clients can achieve that healthy glow.

Let’s face it - client’s love seasonal skin care as much as we do. Which is why we have an article on glowing skin treatments to freshen up your menu this Spring!

If you've been in the industry for a while, then you'll know that attracting the right clients is important. You want to devote your time and energy to a client who shows up reguarly, on time, and is commited to home care. Quality vs. Quantity will show you just how to target them!

Go beyond the skin with a lesson on Intuitive Beauty! Teach your clients how to listen to their intuition when it comes to creating beauty goals and intentions to achieve true fulfillment. Plus, learn how to set realistic lash expectations for your clients.

There is so much to uncover this month, and a lot of new insights to explore for your business. We also have some other very exciting news! Pregistration for ICES Dallas 2021 happening on June 6 & 7 at its NEW LOCATION, the Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center Dallas, is now open. There will be premier exhibitor shopping, workshops, conferences, and more! I'd love to see you all there!

Managing Editor

samantha@LNEonline.com 4

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April volume 36 number 4

contents From the Editor

Editor’s Pick

10 Feel the Glow

Shedding Light on Sensitive Skin Exfoliation

12 Microdermabrasion vs.

Exfoliation and Acne

Aging Well Photo Feature

skin

Hydradermabrasion

guide

10 Feel the Glow

36 Exfoliation Skin Guide

Changing the Way We Talk About Aging

Intuitive Beauty

18 Spa Of The Month

48 Changing the Way We Talk About Aging

Quality vs. Quantity

In the Treatment Room

Beauty Bulletin

#esty2esty

Esthetician Spotlight

24 Quality vs. Quantity

Lash Expectations

image

business

spa

o&w

Spa of the Month

52 Lash Expectations

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com

Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Sabine Kadyss sabine@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Samantha Garcia samantha@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Director of Conferences & Events Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com

PLAN AHEAD AND SCHEDULE YOUR SHOW EXPERIENCE TODAY! OUR ICES APP FEATURES INCLUDE... • Live Push Notifications • Connect with Main Stage Speakers • Exhibitor Profiles • Show and Exhibitor interactive maps

For real-time updates and show announcements, press allow for push notifications straight to your device.

Download the free app in the APP store ( Android and IOS compatible)

Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com

International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Marconi Rodas Kara McLucas Mark Samantha Garcia Arlene White

Brian Goodwin Alex Hernandez Grace Schindler Erin Soletski

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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skin Feel the Glow

Feel the Glow Five treatments to freshen up your menu this Spring season by Marconi Rodas

The Springtime welcomes and signals the perfect opportunity to breathe a little freshness into the skin and your facial treatments for the ultimate glow. While winter leaves the skin feeling a bit dull and a little parched, the new spring cycle can revive the complexion. You can achieve glowing skin for your clients by properly prepping the skin for the season change. There are so many ways to help your clients create radiance to face the days ahead confidently.

LED Light Therapy With LED, you can treat client’s concerns and correct their complexion. LED therapy is a non-invasive way to boost skin health naturally, combat acne, calm redness, and boost collagen production, among other benefits. It is safe

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skin Feel the Glow

and painless, making it ideal for all skin conditions, and can even be used on chemotherapy patients. Red light can be used for soothing, calming down inflammation, or assisting collagen synthesis. Blue Light can be used to help target the sebaceous glands for breakout control. For best results, always offer your clients a series of treatments.

Sonophoresis & Iontophoresis These technologies enhance the absorption of the appropriate serums and treatments. The sound waves flow through the skin during the treatment to create space between the skin cells to penetrate more of the product. Then the iontophoresis charges the product with energy where it can be absorbed by the cell itself. These product delivery tools are great alone, but this combined therapy quickly treats the skin with the vitamins and antioxidants necessary for healthy, glowing skin. Hydration, fine lines, redness, and pigmentation are all improved.

stimulate ATP, collagen, elastin in the skin and the underlying muscles. This treatment targets the facial muscles, immediately giving the face and neck a more toned and tightened appearance. It is important to note that microcurrent is so much more than just a facial workout. This is an excellent treatment for glowing into the Spring and Summertime for two other significant reasons: Increased circulation and detoxification. We can achieve increased blood flow with microcurrent, feeding the cells and tissue with oxygen and nourishment. On the back end of that,

Chemical Peel

microcurrent and the muscles are milking lymphatic fluid to rid the cells of debris and toxins – creating an optimal cell matrix for proper and thriving cell functioning. Combining all these benefits from a microcurrent treatment will depuff, lift, sculpt and create a more radiant complexion. Like most facial services, the immediate results are fantastic. Still, the microcurrent treatment works best as a series of several treatments are done close together because each treatment builds on the treatment before. After a series of services, dramatic improvements in the firmness of the face and neck are achieved.

the ultimate glow for all your clients. Don’t be afraid to try combinations of these modalities for undeniable and addictive results.

A chemical peel is a terrific technique to help your clients reset and freshen up for Spring. Typically used to improve skin appearance on the face, neck, or even the hands, a light peel can help rid your clients of excess cuticle build-up on the skin. A great option is a gentle lactic acid solution. The new, regenerated skin will be smoother and brighter. This is the season to help your clients discover the radiance they may have lost during the chapped months of cold weather. With these tools in your arsenal, you will be able to deliver

Antioxidants An excellent pairing for creating the perfect glow and protective defense is incorporating antioxidants in the treatment with sonophoresis or iontophoresis for a supercharged delivery of ingredients. While antioxidants are helpful year-round, they are essential during the spring and summer, when stronger UV rays can damage unprotected skin. Not only can too much sun lead to direct DNA damage, but it can also break down collagen and elastin due to UV-induced free radicals. Free radicals, highly destructive molecules in the environment, can also wreak havoc on the skin. Apply an antioxidant serum, such as vitamin C, in the treatment to help strengthen the skin barrier to make it less susceptible to these environmental factors.

Microcurrent Microcurrent therapy typically uses a revolving, low-level electrical current to

Licensed Esthetician and owner of Marconi Castle Skincare, Marconi Rodas has become one of Boston’s most sought after facialists. Since his arrival in the industry, his reputation as a skincare expert has exploded - landing his hands on Hollywood’s top actresses. With training in countries like France and Australia, Marconi has designed his treatments to stand out in a world of enhancements and quick fixes, inspired by his own skin struggles.

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April2021

skin Microdermabrasion vs. Hydradermabrasion

MICRODERMABRASION VS HYDRADERMABRASION What’s the difference? by Kara McLucas Mark

Microdermabrasion has been around as an effective facial treatment for a myriad of skin conditions; it helps with cell turn over, circulation, and facial imperfections. However, there is a new epidermal shedding treatment on the market that sounds similar, but it is “infused” with some surprising differences. Let us discuss the benefits and differences between microdermabrasion and the newer hydradermabrasion.

HOW Microdermabrasion has two modes of exfoliation. First is the use of a diamond tip extraction device that exfoliates 12

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by a “sanding” like mechanism with a diamond tip that is gently moved across the skin. As the diamond tip hand piece is brought over the skin suction removes the dead skin and debris. The second uses fine, sand like particles to exfoliate. Typically, the particles are made of aluminum oxides or sodium bicarbonate, with the possibility of additional beneficial additives such as tea tree granules for an antibacterial effect. Hydradermabrasion uses similar technology in utilizing a handpiece that also has vacuum capability and the ability to exfoliate, yet the name gives us a clue to the main difference – “HYDRA”.

Hydradermabrasion uses a vortex like water technology to gently use water to “pressure wash” the dirt and debri from the epidermis while also infusing the skin with beneficial skin serums. The water is pushed against the skin like a tiny tornado to cause the hardened keratinocytes to loosen while pushing antioxidants and other goodness into the skin.

WHO Microdermabrasion and hydradermabrasion are used in treating a variety of different ailments of the skin. Microdermabrasion was cleared by

skin Microdermabrasion vs. Hydradermabrasion the FDA in 1996 to treat fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, enlarged and congested pores, acne scarring, stretch marks, uneven skin tone and texture, melasma, and sun damage. It can be used on all skin types, but it is suggested to avoid using it on heavily wrinkled skin, skin types V-VII, and sensitive skin. Since microdermabrasion relies on an abrasive material it can aggravate and cause damaging inflammation on these skin types. In contrast, hydradermabrasion is safe for ALL skin types and conditions. It is much gentler on the skin on account of it using vortex technology

that simultaneously pulls as well as deposits into the skin, because of this it is also more moisturizing. Within a hydradermabrasion facial there are typically three things happening with just one machine: Cleansing, exfoliation, and infusion. It is a full regimen in one machine, whereas microdermabrasion is just a singular step.

WHY As skin care specialists, we have heard the terrifying statistics of what happens to the skin as we age. After the age of 20, our skin starts producing 1% less collagen a year. Exposure to harmful

UV rays causes 80% of our skin’s sun damage. Aging is something that we can only slow through prevention and proper treatment. The same can be said of many other skin conditions such as acne, dullness, and uneven skin tone and texture. While genetics are a defining factor in many things, getting regular facials such as micro or hydradermabrasion can be very advantageous. Either of these two facials encourage cell turnover by removing follicle clogging sebum, dirt, and corneocytes. By removing this film it exposes fresh and bright skin, leading to better texture and tone. With acne it removes the bacteria and stimulates the lymphatic system to drain all the toxins. By increasing circulation within the skill it gives a plump and rosy appearance as well as bringing vital nutrients back into the skin. Studies have shown that hydradermabrasion is more effective in increasing skin thickness as well as fibroblast activity to encourage collagen production. Hydradermabrasion facials are more effective in this due to its ability to infuse antioxidant-based serums deeper into the skin. Choosing which modality is the best for your practice can come down to seemingly small differences in machines and protocols. Microdermabrasion has the upper hand in adaptability and that is the original procedure. It works on most skin types while being an easy add on to any facial procedure. Hydradermabrasion on the other hand is more advanced and has the scientific data to back up claims of generating collagen and elastin production. Either are a great addition not only to your practice but to one's facial regimen.

Kara McLucas-Mark is a licensed esthetician with a medical focus. She has worked with multiple modalities including non-ablative lasers, microcurrent, ultrasound skin tightening, and radiofrequency machines. She lives with her husband and two dogs outside of Annapolis, MD. She loves learning about new skin developments, her LED light, and jade roller!

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April2021

EDITOR’S PICK OF THE MONTH

Elina Organic’s Skin Recovery Protective Healing Cream

The Cleopatra Fractional Bio Infusion System

Formulated with extracts of Arnica and Spongilla, this cream is for those with irritated, inflamed, stressed, and acneprone dry complexion. It contains antiseptic properties to rebuild collagen and elastin while speeding up the skin healing process. elinaorganics.com

Introducing the latest development in combination therapy. Incorporating the dermal infusion technology to microchanneling, coupled with LED light therapy, microcurrent treatment and cupping for lymphatic drainage and massage, a full treatment with Cleopatra is transformational. cleopatraskinhealth.com

Eight Greens Phyto Masque Green Polyphenol Peel from DermAware This deep resurfacing peel is created with organic polyphenols, cranberry, raspberry, blueberry, and boosted with Dermaware’s powerful vitamin complex to promote rejuvenation. It is powerful for tackling acne, fine lines, and wrinkles. dermaware.com

Vitamin C Reversal Serum This powerful age defying serum boosts firmness and neutralizes free radicals. It contains hyaluronic acid and Vitamin B5 to hydrate and soothe. This lightweight serum is perfect for all skin types. circadia.com 14

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The Eight Greens Phyto Masque is naturally high in phytoestrogens and antioxidants to help you return the skin to its youthful-looking glow. This unique, plant-powered mask will help improve hydration, the look of elasticity, fine lines and wrinkles, and the normalization of oily skin and breakouts. eminenceorganics.com

NEW HYDRATING ENZYME MASK

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Results by Acne Expert of the Year 2020, Zaida Gordon, of Skintegrity Integrative Skincare, Pasadena, CA. @skintegrityla LNEonline.com April2021

CLARITY # Dallascongress21

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DALLAS, TX June 6 & 7, 2021

Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center

The only all-inclusive educational experience for skin care and spa professionals. Business Conference • Makeup Conference • Lash Conference Workshops • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities

SPONSORED BY

Call 1.800.471.0229 to request your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com • USA: +1 305.443.2322

At the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, the health and safety of our exhibitors, attendees, and staff are paramount. Face masks are required for entry into the event. We are implementing additional measures to exceed any safety standards and guidelines as identified by the CDC. LNEonline.com

April2021

spa Spa Of The Month

The Trellis Spa at the Houstonian

The largest spa retreat in Texas by Samantha Garcia

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spa Spa Of The Month

SIGNATURE TREATMENT Rediscover the famed Trellis Spa at the Houstonian as it reopens as the largest spa retreat in Texas. You can relax for a few hours or an entire day, experiencing all that it has to offer, from the Soaking Pools & Gardens to the deeply relaxing head-to-toe spa treatments. The Trellis Spa is an oasis like no other, offering a wide array of services for you to indulge in, including custom services for men, mothers-to-be, and teens. You can start your day with breakfast in the new treetop dining room while overlooking the majestic oaks and end it with a fine wine and dining experience on the dining terrace and first-level patio. General Manager Renae Cassam is sharing all that makes the Trellis Spa a four-star awarded spa by Forbes Travel Guide, including the spa's signature treatment and state-of-the-art amenities.

SPA OF THE MONTH

A LOOK INSIDE The Trellis Spa offers an expansive 21 treatment rooms, four manicure stations, six pedicure chairs, two styling stations, and two makeup stations. Not to mention, an incredible water circuit experience in the outdoor Soaking Pools & Garden. After a shower in the locker rooms, guests are encouraged to begin their soaking experience in the hot outdoor Vitality Pool followed by the warm Ambient Pool and a cold shower in the outdoor water circuit area. "We encourage guests to rest in the Soaking Pools & Garden area after their cold shower on a lounge chair, by one of the fire pits or in a private open-air cabana (available for rent), and walk around for a few minutes to complete the circuit," says Cassam. The Trellis Spa also has a steam room, jetted tub, co-ed Reflection Pool inside, a quiet Tranquility Room, Relaxation Area, and dining at its newly expanded dining terrace where breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily.

The spa's signature treatment is the Diamond White Facial, a revolutionary treatment that provides glowing results for hyperpigmented skin. "It is formulated with high concentrations of effective whitening and lightening active ingredients that achieve astonishing results after the first session," says Cassam. The treatment evens out skin tone and minimizes pores to reveal an utterly even complexion. The treatment is suitable for all skin types and is offered for 50 minutes, $230, and 80 minutes, $310.

MARKETING "The largest percentage of Trellis guests are locals who love the oasis we offer in the heart of the bustling Galleria area of Houston. We pride ourselves in making every guest feel welcome, and our dedicated spa concierge assists in facilitating memorable spa experiences," says Cassam. Many Houstonians' private fitness club members visit the spa for spa or salon services and invite their friends. The spa keeps its marketing efforts minimal and instead focuses on offering the best treatments and guest experiences. "Through our dedicated staff who have focused on servicing our guests, we've been able to create demand for the unique experience offered at Trellis," Cassam explains.

TRAINING All staff are trained upon being hired, but the spa also has training and refresher training throughout the year to keep service standards exceptional. The spa hosts quarterly departmental staff meetings and two pre-shift meetings every day, one for service providers and the other for guest service staff. "During pre-shift, we review the number of services and lunches scheduled, groups in house, a guest service focus of the day, and opportunities of avail

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April2021

spa Spa Of The Month

able appointments for team members to cross-promote one another," explains Cassam. Staff performance is reviewed throughout the year, and department goals are shared consistently. Employees are also offered gratis retail and prizes to meet retail sales goals and increase bookings during incentive periods, such as when a new service is launched or when the spa is highlighting a specific treatment.

SPECIAL EVENTS AND PROMOTION The Trellis Spa loves to create its own events and participate in events with local vendors to highlight the products it offers in its treatments. Marketing efforts are prepared a few months in advance for promotions, and the spa will typically send emails or post on its website to promote. "We've participated in Beauty Lover's Day by Natura Bissé for several years. Beauty Lover's Day celebrates St. Jordi, Catalonia's (a city in Spain) version of Valentine's Day. St. Jordi's Day is a one-day festival of romance, roses, and books inspired by the legend of St. George. The legend is that Saint George slew a dragon to save a princess and then plucked a red rose 20

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for the princess from a rose bush, which sprouted on the exact spot where the dragon's blood had spilled. So - the men, the knights - in Barcelona and Catalonia give their sweetheart - the princess - a red rose, and in recent years a new St. Jordi tradition is that ladies give men a book," says Cassam. Natura Bissé offers a retail product gift with purchase and value-size product for this special holiday in the Spring. On St. Jordi's Day, the spa team wears red accents, hands out roses to guests, and puts Ricardo Fisa's, the founder of Natura Bissé, book on display.

In addition to the skincare lines mentioned, the Trellis Spa also offers ORVEDA, Kérastase, Phytomer, LONDONTOWN, NuFace, and Déesse. The spa’s revenue composition is 35% massage/body treatments, 22% facials/ waxing, 13% hair, 10% nails, 2% makeup, and 18% retail.

REVENUE AND RETAIL

houstonian.com 713.685.6790

When it comes to choosing retail products, the spa keeps all of the staff and guests involved, having conversations with the estheticians, massage therapists, and other service providers on what they believe will work well and translate into a home care solution. "One of our massage therapists met one of the co-founders of Lacuna Botanicals, the line we use in our CBD massage at a conference in Colorado. We had been searching for a high efficacy CBD for some time, which offered luxury retail packaging and scent, and knew Lacuna would be the perfect fit for Trellis," explains Cassam.

Rundown The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa 111 N Post Oak Ln Houston, TX 77024

Opened: May 2001 General Manager Spotlight: Renae Cassam is the General Manager of Trellis Spa by The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa, where she utilizes her vast experience in health and wellness and leverages her propensity for transitioning spas toward successful financial operations. As Spa General Manager at Trellis, she is responsible for operating the largest spa retreat in the state of Texas at 26,500 square-feet of newly renovated space.

business Quality vs. Quantity

QUALITY VS. QUANTITY The importance of quality clients and ways to target them

by Arlene White

I remember the day my spa doors opened. The excitement and pride as I looked around my space, designed to my exact specification. Top of the line equipment, cabby bottle labels all facing forward, glistening floors void of wax splatter. Fast forward to years of wax dripping scars on the floors, bottle labels non-existent and my space now in need of an upgrade. When my doors opened, I had no clientele, so I focused on getting people in the door quickly. I allocated most of my advertising budget on discount coupons and spent my days off taking every available class to increase my menu. I wanted to ensure that no matter what the requested service, I could say yes. My first goal was

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business Quality vs. Quantity finally reached; I was booked out 90 full days! Why didn’t I feel like celebrating? My calendar reflected a successful practice, but my bank account told a completely different story.

HONING IN It’s emotionally taxing to look at your business with clarity. There are many successful TV programs to prove this. What would Tabitha do? I began by digging into my client retention. What percentage of my filled calendar were quality, loyal regulars? When I subtracted the advertising fees from the discounted rate I actually received for my service, it barely covered my product cost, much less my time. Most of these discount shoppers were one-time “visitors”. My service to retail sales ratio was at only 7%. These clients were not only receiving a discount but not purchasing retail! At last check, the industry standard was only 10 – 15%, meaning for every $100 in service sales, the average esthetician sells $10 - $15. My goal became 30% or $30 per every $100 service. Ultimately, I blew it out of the park with a 52% monthly average.

STICKING TO YOUR NICHE My ever-expanding menu was overwhelming. I knew a little bit about everything but was an expert at nothing. I had to figure out what I really loved doing and become an expert. You don’t want to go to a General Practitioner for brain surgery, right? Why was I making myself a general practitioner? I became an expert in what I loved, more results-oriented, aggressive treatments. I contacted a fellow esthetician that loves performing more spa, relaxing facials and began sending my “fluffy” facials her way. Guess what? She began referring all her clinical facials my way. No business loss there!

TARGETING QUALITY CLIENTS Now I needed to articulate what the perfect client is to me. I needed a clientele who not only showed up but showed up regularly, on time, sent me referrals, and was committed to home care. The biggest game-changer to my business came when I changed my intake questions during my consultation. If I was going to be 100% committed to my clients, I wanted the same. To make this happen, I completely remodeled my first appointment with every single client. I began by scheduling more time with my first-time appointments. Time is money but these extra few minutes redefined my practice. Along with the standard intake questions, I added very poignant questions.

4 How many days from today do you want to reach those results? 5 I am going to spend a few minutes after your treatment to educate you on home care products. Are there any types of products you wish me to focus on now? I.e., eye treatments, neck, etc. 6 Are you committed to investing in skincare that will catapult you towards these results? These questions created transparency for us both. They understood my practice and I understood their commitment. Yes, this was intimidating for some, but a huge relief for the type of client I was looking for. I asked new clients to join my social media page during their first appointment consultation. This guaranteed frequent communication and gave me the visibility to ask their friends to also “like” my spa page. My page went from 330 likes to over 2,000 in only 45 days. For those clients not on social media, I sent e-blasts or texts at the first of each month, celebrating success and detailing events. Lastly, I held quarterly VIP nights, inviting my loyal customers to bring their friends and family in for mini treatments, wine nights, and FREE service drawings. Love what you do. Celebrate your successes and do not be afraid to make the necessary changes to get you there!

1 When you and I work together, we will begin seeing results. If you could choose one result for your skin, what would it be?

Arlene White has worked as a practicing esthetician, spa consultant and business coach for over 30 years. She recently launched a

2 What are your expectations from today’s appointment?

skincare education website: https://proskincaretraining.com because she believes that everyone should have access to affordable

3 What results are you commit-

education. 24/7 educational videos for $24 per

ted to working toward by your next appointment?

month. Student discounts are also available. Arlene@proskincaretraining.com

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business In the Treatment Room

In the Treatment Room with Angela Caglia CELEBRITY FACIALIST AND TRUSTED SKINCARE EXPERT 24

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business In the Treatment Room

When did your love for the skin begin? How did you know you wanted to become an esthetician?

My love of skincare began as a young girl growing up on my grandfather “Pops” large farm in Central California. He farmed apricots, grapes, plums, nectarines and shipped them globally. While my siblings loved eating fruit straight from the tree, I relished in creating the freshest face masks and scrubs with it. I became obsessed with concocting the best textures and aromas and immediately applying my homemade masks directly onto my skin. Pops instilled in me a respect for the land, and always took great pride in the quality of what he produced. While farming is in my soul, exploring the world is in my blood. My first trip off the farm, while still in college, was to Paris to attend the Sorbonne. It was there where I discovered the art of the facial and was mesmerized by the skincare rituals of the French woman. I knew when I returned to the US that I wanted to get my esthetics license along with finishing my business degree. As fate would have it, I moved to Carmel, California after college where I soon discovered the recently opened and only training institute in the US for the venerable French botanical skincare brand, Yonka Paris. I asked to work their front desk (and I’m proud to say I was their first hire) while simultaneously pursuing my esthetician license. Once accredited, I gave facials 8 hours a day and fell in love with the business of making women feel and look more beautiful.

What is your skincare philosophy?

My skincare philosophy is based on nourishing your lipid barrier, less is more when it comes to products, and only use the world’s best ingredients when formulating. My ethos is represented in each product in my assortment. I also bring my 26 years’ experience working directly on skin, that’s

over 20,000 faces, so I have an acute understanding of what works. Plus, when you consider my clients are some of the most discerning and recognizable faces in the world, there is no margin for error. That said, I’m also constantly learning and experimenting with newness, whether it’s a new technique, machine, or ingredient.

What makes the techniques you use unique? Can you share one of your best tricks in the treatment room?

Some of my best discoveries have happened while multitasking. Things I experimented with early in my career I now see as common practice in many

spas. Whether that’s using the latest New World technological breakthrough combined with an Old World stone tool massage, I always strive to offer my clients the best of what’s available to elevate their facial experience. I love to learn, so I’m always on the lookout to try new things. One of my best tricks in the treatment room is feeling the energy of my client. If you are in tune (I like to shut my eyes while I massage them), then it

can sometimes be almost metaphysical. The concept of energy transference is real in the treatment room.

What do you believe is the secret to your success?

In terms of the secret to my success, I would say it’s not being afraid to experiment in the facial room and believing in myself. For example, when I worked at other spas earlier in my career and they would have an expensive facial on the menu that I thought had a redundant protocol, I would ask management if I could replace it with something I thought would work better. My clients always loved the results, and, in turn, management did as well.

My bespoke treatments became so popular that eventually management added them to their own menus. Eventually, I gained the confidence to open my own spa, always guided by my passion to create the ultimate client experience.

What do you believe is key to building and maintaining client relationships? The key to building and maintaining

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business In the Treatment Room

What advice can you give to aspiring estheticians?

My advice to aspiring estheticians is to love what you do. It’s a service business and we have to give our best every time. Also, be a good listener and feel the cues of your clients. They may not want to hear about your life. The hour is all about them, not you, unless, of course, they ask you.

What is your favorite skincare ingredient and why?

My favorite skincare ingredient is meadowfoam seed oil. It’s derived from the Limnanthes Alba flower and grows indigenously in the Pacific Northwest. It’s also the hero ingredient in every one of my products, included among a proprietary complex of other antioxidants. It’s similar in molecular structure to our own sebum so it’s able to penetrate deeply into the skin, delivering the essential fatty acids and antioxidants that we need for a plumper more youthful appearance. It also calms inflammation and is good for acne prone skin. Lastly, it’s one of the most stable oils in the world so it keeps my plant-based skincare stable longer.

client relationships is a commitment to your craft and a keen awareness of sensing energies, a skill I honed while working on celebrities. I learned early on to never ask my clients about their work, unless they volunteered. I create a cocoon, almost womb-like spa experience for both maximum relaxation and visible results. I try to empower them to feel beautiful, recognizing it’s a vulnerable thing when someone is staring at your face, makeup free, under a magnifying lamp. It’s my goal to make my clients look, and, more importantly, feel confident, reminding myself and them, that we ALL have insecurities, even my supermodel clients. When I bring the mag lamp over their face, I’ll mention something positive about their skin, prior to discussing what we need to improve upon during their session, and then 26

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subsequently what they can do with home care.

When did you know you wanted to start your own skincare line?

I knew I wanted to start my own skincare line the very moment I was giving Barbra Streisand a facial and she looked up at me with her signature doe eyes and asked me what my dream in life was, to which I immediately reacted without thinking or forethought, “I want to start my own skincare line.” That was 9 years ago, and I remember leaving her house feeling so empowered by her words of encouragement that the next day, I immediately started looking for a natural, organic-based skincare lab and have never looked back. Within a year, I had also left my job working at another spa and opened my own.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE SECRETS TO BEAUTIFUL SKIN? My top three secrets for beautiful skin. 1. Less is more. Don’t use more than 5 skincare products during your routine. 2. Get plenty of sleep (8 hours) and drink at least 64 ounces of water a day to have a more beautiful glow. 3. Always remove your makeup every night. Never go to bed without a good cleanse. Do it before you get too sleepy if you have to.

BEAUTY BULLETIN BOARD SEASONAL SKIN SUCCESS CLASS The Skin Script Learning Center is a free and easily accessible online curriculum. Explore different courses including Skin Script 101, covering ingredient knowledge and vocabulary, complete with tips and tricks on product use. Other courses include the Seasonal Skin Success Class so that you can create seasonal services that your clients rave about, and learn proper application techniques of custom-masking for skin conditions! education.skinscriptrx.com

FACIAL GUA SHA TRAINING FOR PROFESSIONALS AT STUDIO BRITTA Are you an esthetician looking to enhance your facial treatments? Or a massage therapist or acupuncturist wanting to bring more attention to the face and beauty? Gua Sha is more than just a trend, this ancient Chinese healing technique does wonders for the skin and facial muscles. This course includes five modules detailing the studio’s signature gua sha sequences, monthly lice Q & A calls, two business bonuses for marketing services on social media and how to price them, plus so much more. studiobritta.com 28

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GET LIVE EDUCATION THROUGH THE ICES DIGITAL DESTINATION APP Every two weeks, the ICES Digital Destination App brings industry experts and leaders to its virtual main stage to teach you about new skincare trends and help you elevate your spa business. Download the app for real-time notifications about our next event. See who’s sponsoring and get access to amazing SHOW SPECIALS from your favorite skincare companies. We’re talking brands like Eminence, Circadia, and Hempfield Botanicals. lneonline.com

FACIAL REJUVENATION & AURICULAR ACUPRESSURE EAR SEED TREATMENTS Learn all about facial rejuvenation, including natural skin care, stone tools, dermarollers, supplements, and food! Discover auricular protocols for wrinkles, age spots, bags, puffiness, and overall complexion. Plus, learn how to combine facial rejuvenation with ear seeds! Ear seeds have an array of benefits and can help heal your clients from a variety of health issues like depression, anxiety, and migraines. The EarSeed Academy is the perfect place to delve into this new scope of healing! earseedsacademy.com

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April2021

esty2esty

ON INSTAGRAM

See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! The news is out, estys! Preregistration just went live April 1 for ICES Dallas 2021, happening June 6 & 7 at its NEW LOCATION, the Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center Dallas. Are you ready for premier exhibitor shopping, workshops, conferences, and more!? Get your esty besties • Mika and I visited The DashBar this month to experience the collective services for ourselves! Check out our experience on our blog.

• ICES Digital Destination is still premiering new education and lectures twice a month! Check out our next event on Acne Imposters, happening Monday, April 5, with Face Reality!

together and get your tickets today! Make sure you follow us on IG for event updates and throwbacks to past ICES events to get you pumped for this year! Plus, check out the ICES Digital Destination App for educational events you don’t want to miss! We’re learning so much about Dermaplaning, Brow Lamination, CBD, and more. STAY TUNED for what’s next in skincare and beauty!

• Read all about creating your own Instagram REEL on our blog!

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• Check out our blog post of 2021 Skincare & Spa trends to stay updated with the latest.

@estheticianedit

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April2021

Esthetician Spotlight

old. I used every medical topical, antibiotic ,and over the counter products throughout my childhood and adult years. Experimenting is just who you are when you are someone who has suffered with acne. However, I firmly believe that in order to have maximum results we need both a medical and natural approach. It wasn’t until THE ADARA SPA was 3 years old and our first newborn baby was 1 month old, did we decide to start the process of finding a chemist who would help us create the perfect product that was safe for all skin types and post treatment. It took us almost 2 years to formulate these products, we did not compromise, rush or duplicate our ingredient deck. I have worked with hundreds of skin care lines and I love my competitors, who inspire me on a daily basis. However, I wanted to create something clean, effective and that estheticians approve of. We are the first skin care company to have an esthetician approved seal and our muse is every hard working Esthetician.

Julie Grosso, Owner and Esthetician at THE ADARA SPA in Arlington, VA, starts her very own skincare line What is your background as an esthetician? I started selling professional skin care when I was 19 years old. I worked in retail for many years, selling Dr. Perricone, SkinCeuticals, Dermalogica, Yonka, Murad and many more. I soon became a number in sales at every company I worked for and realized my passion for ingredients and skincare regimens was something I should take very seri-

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ously. I quit my journalism major and went to Bellus Academy in San Diego when I was 22 years old. I have worked in retail, medspa’s, waxing centers and now own THE ADARA SPA outside of Washington D.C. and we just launched our skin care line, X FORMULATIONS.

What made you want to start your own skincare line? I had acne from the time I was 10 years

How do you plan to help other estheticians who were negatively impacted by the pandemic? The pandemic was extremely hard on our industry, arguably the most impacted in some states. I was so inspired seeing so many of my fellow estys doing whatever it takes, going outside their comfort zone and hustling just to keep their business and our industry alive. X FORMULATIONS promotes Estheticians all over the world on our social platforms, website and to our clients. We give FREE products to estheticians to try and a set of products for their clients to sell. Cash Flow is a major issue for estheticians right now and building clientele. XF is here to help estys with both and has been helping estheticians get new clients and make more money since the reopening.

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Exfoliation Skin Guide

Sheddin on Sensit Exfoli tion designed for sensitive skin can also help address these issues, including the treatment of hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, and breakouts.

Proper Chemical Exfoliants

How to properly exfoliate and care for sensitive skin types by Brian Goodwin

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In the minds of clients who suffer from sensitive skin, exfoliation is probably at the bottom of their priority list in their skincare routines. After all, when most people think of exfoliation, they envision rough particles, harshly buffing the skin to remove dead skin cells – the last thing someone with sensitive skin would want. However, there are indeed forms of exfoliation designed for sensitive skin, and when done right, exfoliation is a critical step to include in their regimens. Proper exfoliation of sensitive skin helps increase penetration of soothing ingredients and removes irritating debris trapped on the skin's surface. It is an essential first step to treat additional skin issues often experienced by those with sensitive skin. Additionally, exfolia-

Rather than using physical exfoliation to remove the dead skin cells and debris, the solution lies in using proper chemical exfoliants to encourage skin cell turnover gently. However, not all chemical exfoliants are created equal; acids vary in particle size and natural pH, affecting how rapidly they penetrate the skin and the irritation they may cause. Newer, novel acids are on the rise to exfoliate sensitive skin due to their ability to exfoliate and lower inflammation all at once effectively. These acids include: • Mandelic Acid – Though Mandelic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) like Glycolic Acid, they differ immensely in the potential level of irritation they create. Mandelic Acid has a larger molecule size than Glycolic and penetrates the skin more slowly, avoiding the associated irritation caused by Glycolic Acid. Mandelic Acid is sourced from bitter almonds and provides anti-inflammatory, pigment brightening, hydrating, and anti-bacterial benefits,

Exfoliation Skin Guide

ng Light tive Skin iation making it an excellent choice for all skin conditions1. • Azelaic Acid – Azelaic Acid is a Dicarboxylic Acid and is typically derived from vegetable oils or grains. It imparts anti-microbial, antioxidant, and most importantly, anti-inflammatory benefits that soothe sensitive skin while it exfoliates. Azelaic Acid is also well known for its ability to reduce redness in the skin and effectively tackle hyperpigmentation. • Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acids – Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acids are some of the newest types of acids to come to the market and are considered Polyhydroxy Acids. Like AHAs, they increase hydration while exfoliating but differ by having even larger molecule sizes than all AHAs, resulting in being gentler to the skin. They also have antioxidant properties that protect the skin from free radical damage and photo-aging.

Treatments These acids can be used both in professional treatments and in clients' home care regimens. However, the percentage of acids and pH of home care formulations is much milder than profes-

sional treatments. Regarding home care products, these acids may be incorporated into dedicated exfoliating pads or other skincare steps, such as a cleanser, moisturizer, or serum. An essential factor to consider for sensitive skin is limiting exfoliation to only one step in your routine. Overexfoliation can further sensitize the skin, leading to additional skin challenges. Following directions from the skincare manufacturer and exfoliating the minimum number of recommended times per week is suggested for sensitive skin. In professional treatments, correctly formulated peels with these acids make a fantastic way to address breakouts, hyperpigmentation, and other aging signs without overly increasing the skin's sensitivity. Traditional chemical peels are not typically associated with being suitable for sensitive skin.

free SPF, are both critical steps to apply and reapply daily. The extra hydration and protection from UV-induced free radical stress will set the skin up for success and prevent further sensitization in already-sensitive skin types. Sensitive skin types should also avoid makeup usage after they exfoliate for 24 hours, as many makeup products contain ingredients that can commonly cause adverse reactions. In summary, exfoliation is a step everyone should be performing on their skin, including sensitive skin types. Success lies in using the proper kind of exfoliation for sensitive skin (gentle, acid-based) and applying protective post-care. This protective post-care includes a hyaluronic acid serum free from artificial fragrance and color, and a chemical-free, all-mineral SPF to protect against harmful UV rays.

The Importance of Post-Care After exfoliating sensitive skin in a home care or professional treatment, postcare is paramount, as what is applied on the skin after a facial can provide a barrier against elements that can further sensitize the skin, especially the sun. A hydrating hyaluronic acid serum, free of artificial fragrances and colors that can be sensitizing, as well as chemical-

Brian Goodwin is an award-winning International Educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a Master Medical Esthetician, Master Herbalist and Consultant, Brian leverages over 10 years of spa industry experience to bring fun, engaging education to spa professionals around the world.

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Exfoliation Skin Guide

Exfoliation and Acne

How to properly exfoliate different types of acne by Alex Hernandez

Exfoliation is a key factor in obtaining and maintaining optimal skin health. Acneprone skin, however, relies heavily on exfoliation to keep acne lesions from forming and to facilitate deeper penetration of active, acne-fighting ingredients. To really understand every facet of the relationship between acne and exfoliation, one must begin at the root cause of acne: Retention Hyperkeratosis. Retention Hyperkeratosis is an inherited disorder defined by an abnormal shedding of cells within the follicle, leading to skin cells becoming stuck within the pore. The acne-prone pore sheds skin cells four to five times faster than those that are not acne-prone. This causes the build up of sticky, dead skin cells to the formation of a microcomedone, otherwise known as the beginning of all 38

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Exfoliation Skin Guide Lastly, combination acne is categorized by the presence of both inflamed and noninflamed lesions. When choosing an exfoliation for this acne type, always treat the inflamed acne first.

Exfoliation According to Acne Types

acne. Exfoliation is essential to treating acne; it keeps the follicles clear of debris, soothes inflammation, and fights bacteria.

Types of Acne Three main types of acne are categorized by severity: mild, moderate, and severe. Noninflamed acne is categorized as open and closed comedones—this type of acne is particularly stubborn and can take longer to clear. Noninflamed acne begins with a microcomedone but has a rougher appearance than the next acne type. Inflamed acne is categorized as papules, pustules, cysts, and nodules. Beginning once again as a microcomedone, inflamed acne differs from noninflamed as the inflamed pore becomes engorged from the continuous build up of oil, skin cells, and bacteria. This will eventually put too much pressure on the follicular wall, and it will burst, flooding the surrounding tissue. Like any wound, white blood cells are produced to fix the problem, resulting in redness and inflammation.

The type of acne will determine the best kind of exfoliation to use. Professional exfoliation treatments will aid the clearing process using extremely potent ingredients. Enzyme exfoliation is the best option for dehydrated skin with moderate to severe noninflamed acne. Ingredients like papaya enzyme do an excellent job of digesting dead skin cells and keratin proteins with minimal to no irritation. Papaya enzyme will also help soften lesions for easier extractions, expediting the clearing process. Do make sure to source an enzyme that includes ingredients like squalane, allantoin, and Vitamin C to support dehydrated, nutrient hungry skin. Chemical peels are suitable for all types of acne, but not all skin types. Do make sure to perform a skin sensitivity test before performing a chemical peel. An effective chemical peel will contain ingredients like l-mandelic acid, l-lactic acid, salicylic acid, and azelaic acid. Like an enzyme exfoliant, chemical peels loosen impactions for easier extractions, which results in less trauma to the skin. There are many acneic skin benefits from chemical peels as they help improve the appearance of PIH, texture, and general discoloration caused by acne. While professional exfoliating treatments are important, using chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA), and retinol at home will play a key role in keeping acne under control. L-mandelic acid (AHA) is ideal for practically all skin and acne types because of its multifunctionality as an anti-inflammatory, antifungal, anti-bacterial, and brightening exfoliant. L-mandelic acid also holds a more considerable molecular weight than other acids, which slows down epidermal penetration resulting in a

more even, less-irritating exfoliation. Not all chemical exfoliants are as universal as l-mandelic acid. For instance, salicylic acid (BHA) is the best choice for oily skin with inflamed acne or acne rosacea because it is oil-soluble and penetrates deep within the pore. Stubborn, noninflamed acne and maturation arrest benefit from glycolic acid (AHA) and retinol because they focus on removing layers of dead skin cells. Physical exfoliants like facial scrubs are critical to clearing noninflamed acne because it preps the skin for maximum penetration of topical products. Using a physical exfoliant before applying chemical exfoliants like an AHA or BHA allows those active ingredients to penetrate the skin deeper. Look for a scrub that uses a gentle exfoliant like cellulose beads to avoid any abrasion to an acne-prone individual's already sensitized skin. Beware of incorrect exfoliation! While physical exfoliants are almost always recommended for noninflamed acne, never use a scrub on inflamed acne. Using a physical exfoliant on inflamed acne can cause lesions to tear open, which causes more inflammation, bacterial spread, cellular damage, and PIH. Make sure to monitor the needs of the skin as those can change—stronger is not always better. Opting for a chemical exfoliant that is too strong or incorporating too many different acids can cause an impaired barrier or burn the skin. When the barrier is impaired, it can lead to other skin conditions and increased breakouts.

Alex Hernandez, a licensed esthetician since 2016, serves as the Clinic Manager and Lead Educator at the Face Reality Acne Clinic in San Leandro, CA. Alex has trained alongside Laura Cooksey, owner and co-founder of Face Reality Skincare, a nationally recognized acne expert with 28 years of experience in educating professionals on safe and effective acne treatment. Alex became a Face Reality Certified Acne Expert in 2018 through diligent practical training and Laura’s online course. www.pros.facerealityskincare.com

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The Secret to Glowing Skin Exfoliators for every skin type!

3 2 1

1. Lactic %5 + collagen • Viktoria DeAnn • viktoriadeann.com 2. Active Exfoliant Powder • G.M. Collin • gmcollin.com 3. Grapefruit Deep Pore Cleanser • Verabella • verabella.com 4. Triple Fusion Pumpkin Mask • Hale Cosmeceuticals • www.halecosmeceuticals.com 5. Summertime Peel • DermAware • dermaware.com 6. pK Peel Neutralizing Spray • Circadia • circadia.com 7. Stone Crop Oxygenating Fizzofoliant • Eminence Organics • eminenceorganics.com 40

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8. Cleansing AHA Facial Exfoliator • Biodraga • biodrogausa.com 9. Mild Scrub • Karin Herzog • us.karinherzog.com 10. Silhouette exfoliant • Sothys USA • sothys-usa.com 11. Retinol %2 Exfoliating Scrub/Mask • Skin Script • skinscriptrx.com 12. Microdermabrasion Holistic Cream • Nature Pure • naturepure.com 13. Lactic Microfoliant • TheraGenesis • theragenesisskincare.com

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1. Natural Jojoba Cleansing Bead Scrub • Dermaesthetics • dermaestheticsusa.com 2. Revitalizing Cream Peel • Control Corrective • controlcorrective.com 3. Miracle Organic Lip Scrub • Holocuren • holocuren.com 4. Buffing Beans Coffee Scrub • callyssee • callyssee.com 5. 8% l-mandelic serum • Face Reality Skincare • pros.facerealityskincare.com 6. RapidRenew Skin Perfecting Polish • RapidLash • rapidlash.com 42

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1. Liquid Exfoliation Peel • wrinkles schminkles • wrinklesschminkles.com 2. organic face scrub • Petals & Grits • shopnorabloom.com 3. Opus Luxe • NION BEAUTY • nionbeauty.com 4. Herbaceous Hemp Body Scrub • Hempfield Botanicals • hempfieldbotanicals.com 5. Microderm Exfoliant • Le Mieux • lemieuxskincare.com 6. Sweet + Single moisturizing candy scrub • bonblissity • bonblissity.com 7. Facial Sponge • SpaCells • supracor.com 44

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organic & wellness Changing the Way We Talk About Aging

Changing the Way We Talk About Aging A brief history of anti-aging and how we can fight ageism in the beauty industry by Grace Schindler

April2021

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organic & wellness Changing the Way We Talk About Aging

The global anti-aging market reached a whopping value of $58.5 Billion (US Dollars) in 2020! As Estheticians and Spa Professionals, this equates to much of our business being the business of anti-aging. Currently, consumers in the age group of 35-55 years lead the global anti-aging market, holding more than a half of the total global market. Based on industry, the skincare industry accounts for the largest share since consumers focus more on the appearance of their skin. Skincare leads the way and is subsequently followed by the hair care and dental industries. To know why people are obsessed with anti-aging, let's look at what aging is. Aging is brought about by a cycle of biochemical processes that cause the body to degenerate over time, impacting the individual's health, fitness, and physical appearance. Anti-aging refers to the process of limiting or slowing these changes through various products and services. The growing consciousness among both the younger and older consumers regarding their physical appearance has fostered anti-aging products and devices. "AntiAging" is the term most widely used in the beauty industry to market preventative and corrective aging skincare treatments and products. The concept behind this isn't new at all. Since the dawn of time, women have tried to stop the clock. Dating as far back as 69 BCE, Cleopatra bathed in donkey's milk daily because of the milk's alpha hydroxy acids that softened and exfoliated her skin. Moving forward to the 16th century, academics attempted to prove that old age was, if not sexy, at least fulfilling. The influential Italian book The Art of Living Long, released in 1550 (and subsequently translated into English, French, Dutch, and German), promoted moderation as a means of achieving a long life and argued old age "is the time to be most coveted." Within the same century, Enlightenment thinkers Benjamin Franklin and Benjamin Rush promoted the notion that old age could

bring new wisdom. But these theories didn't transform Western beauty standards: In the 1600s, Elizabethan women in England placed slices of raw meat on their faces to reduce wrinkles, and, in the 1700s, upper-class French women treated their frown lines with aged wine. Marketing tactics towards anti-aging products for women continued to grow and evolve. "In an era in which people live longer and longer," Susan Sontag wrote in the 1972 essay "The Double Standard of Aging," "what now amounts to the latter two-thirds of everyone's life is shadowed by a poignant

tion that always is, for the beauty that is our soul eternal. Not denying skincare products or preventative aging treatments, but accepting this fact of life rather than running from it, fostering deeper inner beauty as we grow in age. Onward to less obsession around "anti-aging"! "Age well" is a better-appropriated term instead of the anti-aging oxymoron. Let's change the conversation around aging in our treatment rooms, social media platforms, discussions with our clients, friends, co-workers, which can branch out to a larger widespread

How disheartening that society has deemed aging as a tragedy rather than a gift. apprehension of unremitting loss." In this culture, age is to be erased — to be deemed irrelevant, disappear from magazine covers and popular films, get tucked away into facilities, and be managed and cared for. For women, it also means being turned from a coveted object into a disposable one. We spend our lives fighting our disappearance. How disheartening that society has deemed aging as a tragedy rather than a gift. But maybe as skin care professionals, we can become willing to take a different approach to this term. Given that we are in the beauty industry, I think we can help make some significant changes at a personal level that affect society's overall view on aging. It begins with changing the conversation around aging. This is a multi-layered, deeply rooted concept, especially for women. Of course, we all want to look beautiful; we beautify skin! We love beauty! But it's so much deeper than this. It's about accepting and loving yourself, your body, and your skin in every age and time in your life. Accepting the lines and wrinkles, the changes in our bodies and faces, the imperfec-

reach. Aging is a gift- it equals experience, growth, wisdom, beauty, so why not talk about it differently?

My wish for you:

"Know that you are the perfect age. Each year is special and precious, for you shall only live it once. Be comfortable with growing older." ~Louise Hay

Grace is a Licensed Esthetician based in Miami, FL with over 13 years of experience. She is also a Microblading Artist and Advanced Reiki Practitioner. She has worked in luxury spas for her entire career, which inspired her to utilize her skills gained in her experience and in her life to create Radiant Grace. She specializes in treating acne through the use of active ingredients and acne treatments. She blends energy healing, aromatherapy, intuition, experience, modern skincare, and tools to create the ultimate experience for each client.

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April2021

organic & wellness Intuitive Beauty

The best thing clients can do for themselves is to learn to love, appreciate, and take care of their skin from the inside out.

INTUITIVE BEAUTY

Help your clients set healthy intentions for their skin by Samantha Garcia

From beauty products promising us perfect skin to Instagram filters and apps intended to banish our every imperfection, it seems as though beauty standards are becoming increasingly tough to meet. But the truth is, healthy, beautiful skin isn't always perfect, and striving to achieve flawless skin can be exhausting, which can exacerbate skin issues. When we look at ourselves in the mirror, we want to make sure we have a healthy relationship with who we see. Now, this may be difficult when we are constantly comparing ourselves to models online and chasing perfection. Often, we feel like our bodies are against us when we experience issues like acne. When in actuality, they are trying to speak to us. The skin is a powerful organ that

April2021

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@estheticianedit

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organic & wellness Intuitive Beauty gives us a lot of insight into what may be going on inside our bodies, whether it be hormonal imbalances, stress, or an unhealthy gut. The best thing clients can do for themselves is learn to love, appreciate, and take care of their skin from the inside out. That's where intuitive beauty comes in. By encouraging your clients to listen to their bodies and do what feels right to them, you empower them to make the necessary changes to lead healthier lives.

What is intuitive beauty? So what exactly is intuitive beauty? It's much like intuitive eating, an eating style that promotes a healthy attitude towards food by paying attention to hunger signals. You eat when you're hungry, and you stop when you're full. Intuitive beauty is all about developing a healthy relationship with your skin by paying attention to its signals. It's about being mindful of the type of products you put on your skin and other factors that can affect the skin, like diet, exercise, and stress. It's listening to your skin and how it feels, and either cutting back on products that may be harming it or giving it the extra TLC it needs. It's going beyond superficial beauty goals and creating

intentions that unveil and align with your true desires. To feel beautiful on the inside. This reduces pressure and alleviates stress and anxiety, allowing you to achieve more sustainable results. So how can you incorporate intuitive beauty practices into your business? Here are a few tips to take your and your clients' intuition to the next level. Ask questions - Get a comprehensive outlook on your clients' lifestyles by asking all of the right questions. This includes questions on what their diet looks like, their fitness routine, whether they are on birth control, and how much they sleep. This will help you identify areas that may be affecting your clients' skin. Hone in your intuition - Staying present in the treatment room will help you tap into what may be going on with your clients' skin. Work on strengthening your instinct as an esthetician. The key is to be calm and relaxed and see what answers come to you. Help your clients develop a change of mindset - As an esthetician, it is essential to teach your clients that the skin reflects their inner health. The skin is always in evolution, changing as we age and live our lives. While there is no quick fix, learning to love and care

for the skin continually is what the skin needs to reflect what we want back to us. Have your clients set intentions - While goals focus on the future, intentions focus on the present moment and are lived out each day. They are more about the inner relationship with yourself and are really your true desires. While your client's goal might be to get rid of their acne, a more pure intention might be learning to love who they see in the mirror. A good practice is to have your clients close their eyes as they are receiving their treatment. Ask them to imagine what the best version of themselves looks like and how they feel. What does that person have that maybe they don't have now? They will see that beauty on the outside is attainable as light and love are on the inside. They will want to go beyond achieving flawless skin once they realize that beauty starts from within. This may help them heal old wounds or define areas of their lives that need to be addressed like stress or lack of sleep. You can incorporate guided meditations like these in every treatment to help them manifest the best versions of themselves. This will ultimately help strengthen their intuitive relationship with themselves and help them make more empowering choices.

A Deeper Connection

Often, we feel like our bodies are against us when they are trying to speak to us.

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The truth is, dealing with skin conditions like acne, psoriasis, and eczema can be challenging. The pressures of aging well and looking like you just stepped out of an Instagram filter are real. What will set you apart from other estheticians is the ability to connect with your clients and show them that you care not only about their skin but also their emotional well-being. Help your clients set healthy intentions for their skin to build more patience and confidence within themselves. Going beyond the skin will help them reach a state of fulfillment that is much more than they knew they'd get when they first entered your treatment room!

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image Lash Expectations

Lash Expectations

Avoid misunderstandings with your lash clients with these simple tips by Erin Soletski

Managing client expectations can be a tricky aspect of providing amazing services as a lash artist. Whether it’s miscommunication about styling decisions or incorrect assumptions about how long extensions should last, these situations can make it challenging to ensure client satisfaction. Thankfully, thorough pre- and post-appointment conversations give you the perfect opportunity to confirm that you and your client are on the same page. Let’s look at common pitfalls and the steps you can take to avoid them.

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STYLING EXPECTATIONS Lash styling is subjective and sometimes even confusing. While one client considers a hybrid set too dramatic, another most certainly thinks it’s not nearly dramatic enough. Others wonder why their lashes look different from their friend’s lashes, even though they had the same type of set applied. It can be frustrating for both parties when the client opens their eyes to find that what they see in the mirror isn’t what they had expected. To prevent these misunderstandings, conduct a thorough consultation before your full sets. Clients often don’t realize how unique lashes and eyes are or how the health/number of their natural lashes will determine what extensions they can handle (and how those extensions look). Kick things off by being upfront about this – inform them that no two sets of eyes are identical, so no two sets of lashes will look alike, even if the same mapping is used. Teach them how important it is to select extensions that won’t damage natural lashes and how it relates to density and drama. After you’ve educated your client on these factors, eliminate styling subjectivity by jointly looking at photos of your previous work. Have them point out what they like rather than describing it verbally. This will clarify how they define commonly-confused terms like “natural” or “wispy” and will prevent different definitions of what is “dramatic.” Then, before committing to a style, carefully assess their natural lashes and have an honest conversation about what to expect if their lashes won’t be able to support what they’re asking for. Let them know where you need 54

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to adjust length, diameter, or dimension to ensure their lashes stay healthy long-term. Be gentle but firm in your wording and tone to avoid hurting their feelings but ensure they understand you aren’t willing to compromise lash health. Once you’ve landed on a map, repeat it back to them and have them confirm that it is what they want before you get started. Showing confidence in your final recommendation will ultimately lead to higher satisfaction with the end product; they’ll know an expert listened and did what was best for their lashes.

RETENTION + AFTERCARE EXPECTATIONS Misguided expectations about how long extensions last can also lead to frustration, especially when the artist is incorrectly blamed for poor retention. Help your clients take ownership over their retention by ending your full set appointments with a detailed conversation about fill schedules and the importance of consistent aftercare. Start by walking them through the natural lash shed cycle to understand what level of shedding is expected and when they should plan to return for a fill. Answer their questions and debunk myths about going six weeks without a fill. If their lifestyle (think daily workouts, sleeping habits, and product usage)

means they’ll likely shed faster than normal, let them know this is a possibility now - don’t wait until they call you to say they’re losing a lot of lashes. Teach your client about the various factors that impact retention and about their role in maximizing it to help prevent them from assuming it’s only your fault if they have poor retention. With aftercare, in particular, don’t assume they understand what to do – instead, walk them through proper cleaning and care protocols step-by-step. Emphasize the importance of these steps by describing why each is important for maintaining healthy natural lashes and maximizing the time between appointments. Remind them that you can’t guarantee your work if proper aftercare isn’t followed. Much of managing client expectations comes down to being proactive and honest. Take the time to hold these conversations, answer questions, and kindly correct any incorrect understandings. By doing so, not only will you avoid undeserved blame resulting from misunderstandings, but you’ll also boost client satisfaction by setting and meeting (or even exceeding!) appropriate expectations.

Erin Soletski is co-founder of LashBeePro, an eyelash extension training and products company with a focus on natural beauty, quality, and innovation. LashBeePro’s mission is to equip and empower lash artists to bring more beauty into the world. Erin also co-owns LashBee, a multi-award winning lash and brow studio in downtown Philadelphia. Prior to opening LashBee, she received her MBA from the Wharton School of Business after years working in consulting, supply chain, and operations. She comes from a family of entrepreneurs and beauty professionals.

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