Lead Graphic Designer Stephanie Stockler stephanie@lneonline.com
FROM THE EDITOR
Dear Readers,
February is the month of love, and what better way to celebrate than by showering our skin with the affection it deserves? In this issue, we’re turning our spotlight to one of the most vital yet often overlooked aspects of skincare: the moisture barrier. Think of it as your skin’s personal bodyguard—shielding, nourishing, and keeping everything in balance.
As estheticians and spa professionals, we know how crucial it is to educate clients about the importance of a healthy moisture barrier. From battling harsh winter winds to recovering from over-exfoliation, this layer is our first line of defense and the key to that coveted glow. Inside, you’ll find expert advice on repairing and maintaining the barrier, along with innovative treatments and products to share with your clients.
We’re also thrilled to announce this year’s LNE & Spa Best Awards winners! These honorees represent the best in the industry, from groundbreaking products to outstanding tools and treatments. Be sure to explore our comprehensive feature to discover what’s setting the standard in skincare and wellness this year.
Finally, as we move through the season, let’s not forget to care for ourselves, too. Whether it’s indulging in a hydrating facial or simply enjoying a moment of stillness, let February remind us to nurture not just our skin but our overall well-being.
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Celebrating a Year of Luxurious Wellness
by Samantha Garcia
Mila Moursi Spa at The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe ZEN ZONE
Marking its one-year anniversary, the Mila Moursi Spa at The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe has flourished as a sanctuary of rejuvenation and luxury. Known for blending European skincare expertise with the serene charm of its idyllic location, the spa now introduces enhanced wellness experiences and upgraded amenities. This milestone, celebrated in sync with the resort’s launch of the Residences & Villas Collection, takes the spa’s offerings to new heights, creating a truly transformative escape.
Photography provided by @theinnatrsf
Exclusive Experiences: Starlight Soirée
For those seeking a truly special and intimate experience, the spa offers the Starlight Soirée, an exclusive nighttime retreat perfect for couples. This luxurious two-and-a-half-hour experience begins with a gourmet dinner, followed by a 90-minute couples massage designed to relax and connect. Guests also receive special keepsakes like Baobab Collection candles and Mila Moursi signature robes, which allow the relaxation to continue long after leaving the spa. This experience is available on select evenings, from Sunday through Thursday and Friday through Saturday, providing a perfect opportunity to disconnect and indulge in the ultimate romantic escape.
Enhanced Amenities for Total Relaxation
The spa courtyard has recently undergone an exciting transformation, featuring a cold plunge therapy, a soothing dry sauna, and four private cabanas nestled among lush greenery. These additions provide guests with more opportunities to unwind and rejuvenate in nature’s embrace. Whether enjoying a treatment or simply relaxing, the serene atmosphere is enhanced by bistro-style seating for guests to enjoy healthy, vibrant meals curated by Lilian’s, the Inn’s signature restaurant. Every moment at the spa is designed to nurture both the body and the mind.
Photography by Ken Hayden Photography
Day Passes for Unmatched Access
For those who want to indulge in a full day of relaxation, Mila Moursi Spa now offers a convenient day pass experience. Available Monday through Thursday, this pass grants full access to the spa’s luxurious amenities, including the resort pool, and includes complimentary parking. Additionally, guests can enjoy a 10% discount on sameday retail purchases, making it easy to take home the high-quality products that enhance their skincare routine. Whether visiting from near or far, the day pass is an ideal way to experience the spa’s offerings without the need for an overnight stay.
Photography provided by @theinnatrsf
Signature Treatments with Proven Results
The spa continues to delight guests with its carefully crafted signature treatments, each designed to rejuvenate and enhance overall well-being.
The Intensive Rejuvenation Facial: This facial features Mila Moursi’s signature dry sculpting and contouring technique, which lifts, tones, and refines the facial features, leaving guests with a glowing and youthful appearance.
The Body Detox and Wellness: A detoxifying treatment that supports the body’s natural ability to eliminate impurities, this service promotes overall wellness by cleansing and revitalizing the body. Both of these treatments are designed with personalized care, ensuring each guest experiences the rejuvenation and results they desire.
Holistic Wellness Activities
The spa’s holistic wellness offerings go beyond traditional treatments to provide guests with an integrated approach to health. Sound baths, strength & stretching classes, and other guided wellness activities are held regularly, helping guests tap into a deeper sense of relaxation and vitality. These activities take place amidst the expansive grounds of the resort, where the tranquil atmosphere further enhances the benefits. Resort guests enjoy these classes at no additional charge, while locals and day spa guests can join for a small fee.
A Message from Mila Moursi
Mila Moursi herself expresses her excitement for the spa’s continued success: "Our first year at The Inn has been incredible. We’re thrilled to continue offering innovative wellness experiences that blend state-of-the-art treatments with the tranquil beauty of Rancho Santa Fe."
Plan Your Escape
Whether you’re planning a romantic evening, a rejuvenating girls’ day, or a personal retreat, the Mila Moursi Spa at The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe offers the ideal setting for relaxation and indulgence. The luxury of the spa, combined with its personalized experiences, creates unforgettable moments of self-care and connection.
The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe 5951 Linea Del Cielo Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067 (858) 756-1123 innatranchosf.com
Photography provided by @theinnatrsf
Mila Moursi Spa & Skincare
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Nano Infusion with Topical Fillers by Skin Fitness
Experience the transformative power of Skin Fitness at ICES Philly and Dallas with our revolutionary nano-infusion treatment, designed to rejuvenate and enhance your skin without downtime or invasive measures. Using advanced technology and ultrafine needles, this treatment stimulates collagen and elastin production, addressing pigmentation, scarring, fine lines, and wrinkles while delivering a topical filler effect for a plump, radiant complexion. Join us to explore how our expertly crafted nanoinfusion ampoules can elevate your practice and help clients achieve flawless, youthful skin!
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Discover FACTORFIVE's Renew Dermal Solution, a revolutionary two-step, no-peel peel that accelerates skin healing and targets common concerns with human stem cell growth factors. Attend the class at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Dallas, Long Beach, and Ft.Lauderdale to explore this cuttingedge treatment, designed for skincare professionals seeking innovative, results-driven solutions.
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Discover Science & Nature in Perfect Rhythm
Our award-winning formulation is perfect for all skin types and features natural micro-beads of beeswax to gently cleanse, exfoliate, and absorb excess oil, leaving the skin feeling fresh, balanced, and beautifully renewed
A new episode will be released every Thursday.
See what’s new with Esthetician Edit!
Don't forget to subscribe to our podcast on Spotify, Apple, and YouTube. New episodes drop every Thursday!
Here is what’s on the podcast lineup for the month of Febuary!
ESTYS FEAUTURED THIS MONTH:
Gabriel Lousada · Jerri Hirst · Sash Moreaux · Daily Habits Academy
Intuition as a Business Strategy with Genesis Quinones
Genesis shares how trusting her gut and following her instinct built a successful beauty brand
Recession-Proof Beauty: Why the Esthetics Industry Thrives in Tough Economic Times with Sash Moreaux
Learn how to position your services as essentials, adapt to shifting consumer behaviors, and thrive even in tough times.
Blueprint to Success: Building a Thriving Med Spa Business from the Ground Up with Jerri Hirst
Perfect for estheticians dreaming of breaking into the medical spa space, this episode dives into becoming an RN and the opportunities that come with it.
Good Habits Face Sculpting Method with Daily Habits Academy
Learn practical face-sculpting techniques and daily rituals to integrate into your practice or recommend to your clients.
FASTING SKIN
BY SAMANTHA GARCIA
HOW HITTING PAUSE ON SKINCARE CAN DO WONDERS FOR THE SKIN
In the world of skincare, we often hear about the latest trends, innovative ingredients, and complex routines. However, there’s a growing movement advocating for simplicity: skin fasting. This approach involves temporarily pausing the use of all or most skincare products to allow the skin to reset and heal itself. While it might seem counterintuitive to forgo your beloved creams and serums, the benefits of skin fasting can be profound.
WHAT IS SKIN FASTING?
Skin fasting is a practice that encourages individuals to take a break from their daily skincare routines. This can mean eliminating all products or just specific ones, depending on individual needs and preferences. The goal is to give the skin a chance to breathe, balance, and regenerate without the interference of external products.
BENEFITS OF SKIN FASTING
1. Restores Natural Balance
Our skin has a natural barrier known as the acid mantle, which helps retain moisture and protect against harmful bacteria. Overuse of products, especially those containing harsh ingredients, can disrupt this balance. Skin fasting allows the skin to recalibrate its natural moisture levels and oil production, leading to a healthier complexion.
2. Reduces Sensitivity
Many people experience skin sensitivity due to over-exfoliation, harsh ingredients, or simply the accumulation of too many products. By taking a break from active ingredients and potential irritants, skin fasting can help reduce inflammation and redness, making the skin less reactive.
3. Enhances Product Effectiveness
When we constantly layer products, our skin can become accustomed to them, leading to diminished results. Skin fasting can help reset this cycle, allowing products to be more effective once reintroduced. This can be particularly beneficial for those who use potent active ingredients like retinoids or acids.
4. Promotes Skin Regeneration
The skin is a remarkable organ with a natural ability to heal and regenerate. By minimizing external interference through skin fasting, you may support the skin’s natural repair processes, leading to a more vibrant and rejuvenated appearance.
5. Improves Clarity and Texture
Many individuals find that after a period of skin fasting, their skin appears clearer and smoother. By allowing the skin to detoxify and breathe, you may experience a reduction in breakouts and an overall improvement in texture.
6. Encourages Mindfulness
Skin fasting can also serve as a form of self-care, encouraging individuals to become more mindful of their skincare choices. This break can help you assess what products your skin truly needs and which ones may be superfluous or irritating.
7. Supports Holistic Skin Health
The philosophy behind skin fasting aligns with the broader trend of holistic health, emphasizing the connection between internal well-being and external appearance. By allowing your skin to rest, you may foster a deeper connection to your body and its needs.
HOW TO PRACTICE SKIN FASTING
1. Choose a Timeframe
Decide how long you want to fast—this could be a few days, a week, or longer. Listen to your skin and adjust the timeframe as needed.
2. Start Gradually
If you’re used to a complex routine, consider gradually reducing products rather than stopping everything at once. This can help your skin transition more smoothly.
3. Stay Hydrated
During your skin fasting period, ensure you’re drinking plenty of water. Hydration plays a crucial role in skin health and can enhance the benefits of fasting.
4. Monitor Your Skin
Pay close attention to how your skin responds. Note any changes in texture, clarity, or sensitivity, and adjust your routine accordingly.
5. Reintroduce Products Thoughtfully
After your fasting period, gradually rein-
troduce products one at a time to identify what your skin truly needs.
Skin fasting offers a refreshing perspective in the skincare world, emphasizing simplicity and the skin's natural capabilities. By allowing your skin to take a break, you may uncover new levels of clarity, balance, and radiance. Whether you’re looking to reset your skin’s health or simply explore a new approach to your skincare routine, skin fasting could be the key to unlocking your best complexion yet.
Skin fasting offers a refreshing perspective in the skincare world, emphasizing simplicity and the skin's natural capabilities. By allowing your skin to take a break, you may uncover new levels of clarity, balance, and radiance. Whether you’re looking to reset your skin’s health or simply explore a new approach to your skincare routine, skin fasting could be the key to unlocking your best complexion yet.
HOW HIT -
TING
PAUSE
ON SKINCARE CAN DO WONDERS FOR THE SKIN
Discover the products you have ranked the Best of the Best!
The competition was fierce with so many amazing entries, but your votes have been counted, and your voices have been heard. Now, it’s time to announce the most popular products. Thank you all for your incredible submissions, and congratulations to our winners!
Eyelash Enhancing Serum
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Berry Boost Mask is packed with nutrients and antioxidants that fortify and replenish the skin. This nutrient-rich formula combats signs of aging, dryness, and dehydration while supporting collagen and elastin growth. It strengthens the skin barrier and enhances resiliency, improving clarity, texture, and brightness. Berry Boost features a natural fragrance of elderberry and violet, adding a delightful sensory experience to its rejuvenating benefits.
PROCELL THERAPIES
7th Generation MD Microchanneling Device
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Copper Peptide (GHK-CU) Serum
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Fine lines & wrinkles
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Topical Fillers w/Nano Infusion
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STEP 1: Glam your lashes up during the new year with RapidGlam ® , a creamy, fiber-infused primer, mascara and lash enhancing serum.
STEP 2: Fortify and nourish your lashes at bedtime with the original RapidLash ® Eyelash Enhancing Serum.
Beauty Bulletin Board
Successful Aesthetician Academy
by Nevette Ramos
Ready to take your esthetics career to the next level? Successful Aesthetician Academy is the only implementation program of its kind, designed to help you deliver professional-level results, market your services effectively, and build a loyal client base. Whether you're a skincare enthusiast, a corporate esthetician dreaming of independence, or an existing provider ready to expand your impact, this program gives you the tools, support, and strategies to scale your business, earn more, and take control of your time.
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Stress and Skin for Holistic Estheticians
by Jessica Goniea
Dive into the science of skin health and stress management with this self-paced online course by Jessica Goniea of Jessica’s Apothecary & Spa. Designed for holistic estheticians, this course integrates the power of herbalism, aromatherapy, and facial massage to support the skin barrier and overall well-being. With over 20 years of experience, Jessica shares her trusted techniques and recipes, empowering estheticians to transform their practices using natural skincare methods.
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Beauty Bulletin Board
Aya’s Touch Online Courses
by Aya
Elevate your treatments with Aya’s Touch Courses and master specialized massage techniques that leave a lasting impression on your clients and their skin. Cultivate a loyal client base that values the exceptional quality and personalized touch of your services. By refining your skills, you’ll command higher prices that reflect the superior experience, expertise, and luxury of your treatments. Position yourself as a leader in the industry and transform your practice into a trusted destination for highend skincare!
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The Gold Mentorship Program by Skin
by Shara
Ready to transform your esthetics business? The Gold Mentorship Program is a four-week, hands-on program designed for estheticians eager to master advanced techniques and implement proven systems to scale their success. Whether you’re preparing to go solo with medical delegation or build a full team, this mentorship offers tailored support through intensive one-on-one sessions, practical workshops, and real-time problem-solving. With only five participants per cohort, you’ll receive personalized, in-depth guidance to ensure every element of your growth—both in advanced aesthetics and business strategy—is addressed.
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Esthetician Spotlight
With
Elizabeth Carter advanced Esthetician, Holistic Skincare Expert, and the Creatrix of Honest Rituals Spa in Topanga, CA and Kauai, HI
Esthetician Spotlight
With Elizabeth Carter advanced Esthetician, Holistic Skincare Expert, and the Creatrix of Honest Rituals Spa in Topanga, CA and Kauai, HI
How did you get started in esthetics?
Can you share with us a little bit about your story?
It was an absolute fascination with the skin. I wanted to learn what truly created healthy glowing skin. What really piqued my interest was learning and diving into skincare ingredients and how the quality of the ingredients makes all the difference.
What inspired you to create Honest Rituals, and how does it reflect your per-
sonal philosophy on holistic beauty?
I created Honest Rituals with the desire and intention to be a sanctuary, where one can come relax and unwind. A healing space for one to reconnect back to their body and experience deep relaxation and rejuvenation through different facial treatments and body work. My intention is that one leaves feeling more connected to themselves and more relaxed than when they came in. Your approach to skincare is all about creating rituals rather than just routines. Can you share the importance of turning a beauty regime into a mindful ritual?
When you turn your beauty regime
into a ritual you simply put intention behind it. It gives you the space to slow down and become present and reconnect to your body. When we turn our beauty regime into a beauty ritual, you become mindful and intentional with every serum and product you layer on the skin. During my beauty rituals, I like to give myself loving affirmations. A Ritual can be as simple as cleansing the skin with luxurious oil, sipping tea, or laying under the Full Moon as long as it's done with intention.
The Sculptural Facial + Buccal Massage is a standout treatment at your studio. Can you explain how this technique works and what makes it so unique
in rejuvenating the skin and energy?
A deeply transformative experience, our Sculptural Facial + Buccal Massage is our highly coveted and signature treatment. We integrate technical and intuitive massage movements to improve tissue circulation, move facial lymph fluid, and contour the face. The techniques we practice lift, tone, and strengthen facial muscles; realigning overall facial posture. One technique being Buccal Massage, which focuses on contouring the cheeks and jowls from the inside of the mouth. This treatment stimulates the muscles, ligaments, and lymph nodes in the buccal fat pad to decongest and destress. To effectively relieve stored emotional muscle tension, this massage extends to the neck, shoulders, and clavicle area. You emphasize using plants, oils, and facial massage for healing the skin. What are some of your favorite ingredients, and how do they contribute to skin health?
cal damage that shows up on the skin. I love to use these oils to cleanse my skin.
How does your studio blend the principles of nature and beauty, and how do you incorporate the elements into your treatments?
natural Clay — the skincare products on the shelves are all natural and filled with amazing ingredients. Everything in each space is a reflection of nature. The treatments we offer in the spa interweave healing touch through facial massage combined with ancient beauty rituals like Gua Sha, Facial Cupping, Herbal Compresses and reflexology.
Your studio emphasizes the importance of simplifying skincare products. What advice would you give estheticians who are looking to guide their clients toward a minimalistic yet effective skincare routine?
Once I studied ingredients and how they impact the health of skin and the facial microbiome, I turned to nature. Some of my favorite ingredients are manuka honey — it’s antimicrobial which is amazing for treating acne, dermatitis, and eczema. I love pomegranate and carrot seed oil. These oils are packed full of rich antioxidants that heal free radi-
I love this question. Well to start, both studios are tucked away in Nature. Our Topanga Canyon studio is nestled around oak trees and wild wisteria grows up the balcony. Our Kauai studio is tucked away on an exotic lush green island. So both spas are already beaming with the energy of nature. I designed the spaces with my partner with the intention of bringing the outside inside. Weaving in elements of wood, stone, and clay. The walls are painted with a
Remind your client that the skin is simple. It’s a direct reflection of our internal health. Remind your client to Nourish the mind, body and skin with healing foods, meditation and natural skincare. When it comes to simplifying the skin routine, introduce your client to oil cleansing. It’s an amazing way to reset and balance the skin’s micro biome. I love to layer with a hydrosol and then mix that hydrosol with a beautiful rich oil. Oil and water blend together and make an amazing combination to hydrate the skin.
With the growing popularity of noninvasive treatments, how does the Sculpting Facial Massage and other manual techniques offer an alternative to more traditional approaches like injectables or lasers? This treatment stimulates the muscles
through specific massage techniques. Facial Massage tones and plumps the muscles and oxygenates the skin from within. This increases the production of collagen and elastin in the skin. Think of it as a work out for the facial muscles. Stimulating them through specific massage techniques keeps the skin plump and can produce similar results to facial fillers.
As a professional who specializes in healing skin from the inside out, how do you approach educating clients about the connection between lifestyle, stress, and skin health?
I remind my clients that the skin is a direct reflection of their internal and mental health. When we are stressed, our body produces more cortisol. This can cause a disruption in the body and
often shows up as breakouts on the skin. I believe the body is the most intelligent system we know, and when skin conditions show up on the face, it’s your body’s way to visually communicate to you that something is out of balance. This is why I love the Sculptural Facial + Buccal Massage, because it begins to make that connection for clients drawing their awareness to the connection between mind and body. When clients receive the sculptural and buccal massage, they experience deep relaxation. This relaxation is both mental and physical. Not only are we releasing tension of the physical body, but we are releasing emotional tension that has been stored in the facial muscles —specifically the jaw. When clients are open and ready to release the emotional tension, that is when clients experience the most transformative breakthroughs. What I love so much about this treatment is that it brings awareness to the client, and through that awareness they are then able to release and integrate. What tips would you offer to fellow estheticians looking to differentiate their services in a competitive market, especially those interested in offering holistic or organic treatments?
I think it’s important and what I’ve found helpful for myself is to hone in on a treatment and become really well versed in it. Find your niche. This could be something you may already be naturally drawn to and you may already be naturally good at. By honing in on a niche it will help you stand out in this industry and clients will specifically choose to go to you for that particular treatment. You also have to truly love and believe in what you do and enjoy it in order for you to sustain inspiration and joy.
Skin Microbiome Decoded
The Key to Resilient Skin
By Isabel Vitale
Every skincare professional worth their salt understands the value of building and maintaining the strength and integrity of the skin barrier. I once heard an esthetician friend of mine put it like this: Isabel, behind every skin condition and concern is a compromised skin barrier. I think most professionals would agree with that. But among all this talk of how to improve the skin barrier, one very important piece is missing from the conversation: the skin microbiome. That’s right, the collection of tiny living organisms mixing and mingling in all the various ecosystems covering every square inch of our skin. Among these little living beings are bacteria, fungi, and viruses that not only have the ability to influence our skin’s health but can directly impact every single aspect of our skin and how it functions.
Skin Structure
Skin Microbiome Decoded
The skin barrier is often compared to a brick-and-mortar structure where the bricks are the skin cells made up of amino acids and other proteins, and the mortar is a lipid matrix made of 50% ceramides, 20% cholesterol, and 10–15% fatty acids. This barrier effectively keeps pathogens, foreign bodies, and external stimuli out of our body and ensures internal homeostasis throughout our body.
Woven into and sitting on top of this barrier are the collection of bacteria, fungi, and viruses mentioned earlier— the skin microbiome. There are approximately 1.5 trillion resident bacteria on the skin at any given time, and roughly 1,000 different species. The most common species found on the skin are Propionibacterium, Corynebacteria, and Staphylococci. The ecology across the skin at different body sites varies depending on the site. The three most notable microenvironments include dry, oily, and moist areas. Each of these microenvironments breeds different microbes. The skin microbiome is primarily made up of resident microbes. These microbes are more permanent in the skin and play a significant role in the overall health of an individual’s skin starting at birth. The resident microbes begin to colonize the skin immediately, even starting to form in the birth canal in the case of vaginal births. There is another group of notable microbes as well that colonize the skin for a few hours to a few days. These microbes are picked up from the environment, the people we come in contact with, and other surroundings. These microbes are called transient microbes. Although transient microbes are not on the skin for long periods of time, they are able to trigger a shift in the balance of resident microbes. This is part of the reason why our skin can react to changes in weather or climate. The skin microbiome has a direct impact on the skin barrier, as these two
are intimately connected. If the skin microbiome is in homeostasis, the skin barrier is strong. If the skin microbiome is dysbiotic, the skin barrier begins to weaken, erode, and degrade, leading to reactive, sensitized, and inflamed skin.
The Shared Goal of the Skin Barrier and Skin Microbiome
“Skin microbes do not simply reside on the skin but interact with the skin in a variety of ways, significantly affecting the skin barrier function...The skin microbiome and the skin barrier relate symbiotically to affect each other in physical, chemical, and immunological ways.” - PMID 36361857
Despite the different mechanisms of action, the skin barrier and skin mi-
crobiome have one shared goal: immunity. The skin microbiome controls much of our skin’s immune system, similar to how the gut microbiome controls the body’s immune system. When there is a threat detected, the microbiome sends a series of signals to the body to launch an immune response. This response consists of AMPs, cytokines, and other inflammatory markers aimed at protecting the skin and ridding it of pathogens before the pathogens can enter the body. This immune activation presents as inflammation, sensitivity, and other chronic inflammatory conditions like eczema, acne, psoriasis, and rosacea. The skin microbiome is really the first line of defense, even before the bar-
rier, as this collection of living organisms are the arbiters of what our skin barrier reacts to and what it dismisses as passive.
“...the microbiome also stimulates a range of innate immune responses and maintains symbiotic relationships with the skin when the skin barrier is disturbed.” - PMID 36361857
When we have dysbiosis in the skin microbiome, the skin’s immune system becomes overactive, eliciting reactions to external stimuli that should be considered benign. This is when we start to see red, reactive, sensitized, and inflamed skin, and a complete erosion of the skin barrier.
“We recently observed that bacteria residing on the epidermis can be observed within the dermis of healthy normal human skin.” - PMID 23385576
This surprising observation— that bacteria can penetrate the epidermis—illustrates how bacteria position themselves to directly influence immune responses
Leaky Skin
teraction between S. aureus and its effects on ceramide and filaggrin levels. Most of this data has been harvested from patients with atopic dermatitis, an inflammatory skin condition with strong ties to skin microbiome dysbiosis and skin barrier impairment. “Strong associations have been shown
Produce adequate protease enzymes to help turn over the stratum corneum.
Produce adequate lipase enzymes to effectively break down and regenerate the lipid layer.
Produce urease, free fatty acids, regulate sebum production, and manage the pH of the skin. Perform effective quorum sensing and biofilm production. Drive antioxidant function and quenching of free radicals. Ultimately, a balanced skin microbiome will result in a more resilient skin barrier with a high tolerance for negative stimuli. The skin will appear stronger, function better, maintain barrier integrity and functioning, reduce fungal and bacterial overgrowths, and maintain sufficient water levels. A balanced skin microbiome reduces reactivity and sensitivity, along with reducing the appearance of various inflammatory conditions like acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, etc.
You may or may not have heard of a new term to describe this reactive, sensitized, and inflamed skin: leaky skin.
Simply put, leaky skin is the term used to describe a dysfunctional skin barrier triggered by skin microbiome dysbiosis.
Studies show that if our skin microbiome is dysbiotic, it has the ability to physically degrade the skin barrier, eating away at essential lipids in the skin and eliciting inflammation along the way.
“Microbiome dysbiosis can cause damage to the skin barrier, which is associated with inflammatory skin diseases.”
- PMID 36361857
One of the most well-documented examples of this comes from the in-
between dysbiosis and the clinical phenotype of atopic dermatitis (AD).”
- DOI: 10.1016/j.jid.2016.05.12
In various studies, it’s been shown that S. aureus prompts skin to produce cytokines that degrade barrier integrity and enhance barrier degradation. The ability of S. aureus to penetrate the epidermis is also superior to other bacterial species, as shown in various tape-stripping experiments.
The Benefits of Balance
A healthy, balanced skin microbiome benefits the health of the skin in a number of ways. Most notably, a balanced skin microbiome will: Prevent the overgrowth of pathogens, thus reducing toxin production and recruitment of immune cells.
Bottom Line
The conversation around the skin barrier is a very important one to be having, and now we have one more giant piece of the puzzle. I’ve been speaking with a lot of estheticians, and it seems that sensitized skin is on the rise. I believe that this is in part due to the fact that the skin microbiome is changing. The canvas of skin is changing, and that means treatments and techniques need to change with it.
The skin microbiome is a foundational piece of skin health; its role cannot be overstated. To achieve the best results for clients, the skin microbiome must be addressed so we can continue to maintain and support a healthy, strong, and resilient skin barrier.
calming the complexion
Holistic Approaches to Inflammation & Skin Barrier Repair
by Naima Solano and Dominique Caron
Inflammation and a compromised skin barrier are often the unseen culprits behind many common skin concerns. Conditions like redness, sensitivity, premature aging, and persistent acne frequently originate from these underlying issues. Traditional skincare approaches often focus on addressing symptoms rather than addressing root causes. However, a holistic approach recognizes the interconnectedness of skin health with overall wellness. By addressing both symptoms and root causes, estheticians can guide clients toward healthier, more resilient skin.
The Interconnectedness Between Skin Inflammation and the Skin Barrier
Skin inflammation and the skin barrier are deeply intertwined. Inflammation, whether acute or chronic, can weaken the skin barrier, while a compromised skin barrier increases susceptibility to inflammation. Together, they create a cycle that impacts skin health, accelerating aging, and exacerbating common conditions like acne, rosacea, and dryness.
What is Skin Inflammation and What Causes It?
Skin inflammation is the body’s natural defense mechanism against threats such as injury, allergens, or infections. However, when it becomes chronic, it can significantly impair skin health.
· Environmental Factors: UV radiation, pollution, and harsh weather.
· Allergies and Sensitivities: Reactions to skincare ingredients or external allergens.
· Hormonal Imbalances: Often linkedto stress, lifestyle, or natural hormonal cycles.
· Diet and Gut Health: Poor nutrition or imbalances in the gut microbiome can drive inflammation.
· Skincare Misuse: Overuse of exfoliants, retinoids, or harsh cleansers.
· Dehydration: Insufficient moisturization can weaken the skin barrier and lead to inflammation.
Typical Causes of Skin Inflammation:
How Is the Skin Barrier Connected to Skin Inflammation?
The skin barrier acts as a protective shield from external factors that can lead to inflammation.
Functions of a Healthy Skin Barrier:
· Prevents Water Loss: Keeps skin hydrated and prevents dryness and flaking.
· Shields Against Environmental Stressors: Protects from UV damage, pollutants, and harmful microorganisms.
· Supports Skin Resilience: Maintains
the skin's ability to heal, repair, and defend itself.
· Regulates the Microbiome: Creates a balanced environment for beneficial microbes to thrive.
When the skin barrier is compromised, the skin experiences increased permeability, increased TEWL, imbalance of the skin microbiome, and is not as effective in fighting free radicals. This makes the skin more susceptible to inflammation and overall imbalance.
What Does a Compromised Skin Barrier Look Like?
A compromised skin barrier does not always present obvious signs of inflammation, such as redness or swelling, making it more difficult to identify. While inflammation is a visible reaction, a weakened skin barrier may lead to subtle symptoms like dryness, sensitivity, or impaired hydration, which can still exacerbate skin issues over time.
Visible Signs of a Compromised Skin Barrier:·
Prevents Water Loss: Keeps skin hydrated and prevents dryness and flaking.
·· Dryness & Dehydration: Reduced moisture retention due to transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
· Excessive Oiliness: Sebaceous glands overcompensate for the loss of moisture.
· Increased Sensitivity: Heightened reactivity to products, pollutants, and environmental changes.
· Breakouts: Clogged or inflamed pores due to barrier dysfunction.
· Itching: A common sign of irritation and dehydration.
· Delayed Healing: Prolonged recovery times for blemishes or wounds.
Low-level inflammation can be present even when the skin appears mostly healthy, subtly impacting its overall balance and resilience. Recognizing these early signs is crucial for preventing further damage and restoring optimal skin health.
What Causes a Compromised Skin Barrier?
Several factors can lead to a compromised skin barrier, often overlapping with causes of skin inflammation. In addition to acute triggers, low-level inflammation in normal skin can also compromise the barrier over time.
Damage to the skin barrier can result from a combination of internal and external factors:
Incorrect Skincare Practices:
· Overuse of exfoliants, retinoids, or other actives.
· Harsh cleansers that strip natural lipids.
· Hot water or skipping moisturizers.
· Incompatible or poorly formulated skincare products.
Environmental Factors:
· Dry Weather: Low humidity increases TEWL.
· UV Damage: Prolonged sun exposure breaks down lipids and damages skin cells.
· Pollution: Accelerates oxidative stress and barrier breakdown.
Lifestyle Factors:
· Poor Diet: Lack of essential fatty acids and antioxidants diminishes resilience.
· Stress: Elevated cortisol impairs skin repair and hydration.
· Smoking and Alcohol: Damages skin cells and reduces hydration levels breakdown.
Medical Conditions:
· Conditions like eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea inherently compromise the barrier.
· Hormonal imbalances alter oil production and hydration.
Aging:
Natural decline in ceramides, lipids, and natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) weakens the barrier over time.
These seemingly minor stressors can accumulate, leading to inflammation and a compromised barrier, even in
Calming the Complexion
otherwise healthy skin. Skin inflammation and the skin barrier are inseparably connected. Chronic inflammation weakens the barrier, while a compromised barrier leaves the skin more vulnerable to inflammatory triggers. Addressing one issue often requires supporting the other, as healing the skin involves restoring its natural defenses and reducing inflammatory responses. By prioritizing a balanced skincare routine and protecting the skin from environmental and internal stressors, you can break the cycle and promote long-term skin health.
A Holistic Approach to Calming Inflammation and Strengthening the Skin Barrier
Addressing both skin inflammation and a compromised barrier is essential for achieving long-term, healthy skin. Since these issues are interconnected—each exacerbating the other— a holistic, esthetician-focused approach helps clients achieve better results with professional care and tailored recommendations.
like retinoids or AHAs. Focus on barrierrepair treatments and soothing ingredients to restore the skin’s resilience before gradually reintroducing potent actives. This approach helps minimize irritation and supports long-term skin health.
Incorporate Anti-Inflammatory Ingredients
Skincare products should include in -
Support and Repair the Skin Barrier
Helping clients restore their skin barrier ensures resilience and reduces the likelihood of chronic inflammation.
· Gentle Cleansing: Encourage the use of hydrating pH-balanced, microbiomefriendly cleansers (around pH 5.5) or simple, non-exfoliating oil cleansers to avoid stripping lipids.
· Humectants for Hydration: Recommend formulations with humectants such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin to attract and retain moisture.
· Balance or Pause Potent Actives: Recommend reducing or temporarily stopping the use of strong actives
gredients that actively reduce inflammation while supporting skin health. Look for formulations that contain 3% Niacinamide, which is the ideal percentage to help reduce redness and strengthen the skin barrier. Also look for formulations with anti-inflammatory extracts such as chamomile, aloe, immortelle and green tea.
Limit Potential Irritants and Balance Active Ingredients
Limiting potentially irritating actives is essential for maintaining skin balance and avoiding flare-ups. Recommend discontinuing or significantly reducing
products with AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids during periods of sensitivity. For those who wish to continue using actives, suggest formulas enriched with soothing and regenerative ingredients like niacinamide, ceramides, or aloe vera. Advise avoiding harsh components such as synthetic fragrances, alcohol, and aggressive preservatives, opting instead for microbiome-friendly and gentle alternatives to support the skin’s recovery. Protect Against Environmental Triggers
Environmental factors significantly impact inflammation and barrier health, so protection is essential. Recommend using a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily to prevent UV damage and inflammation, and suggest antioxidant-rich products with ingredients like vitamin C or CoQ10 to fight free radicals. For clients in dry climates, encourage using a humidifier to maintain moisture levels and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Lifestyle and Dietary Tips
While you can’t control your clients’ habits, offering simple lifestyle tips can enhance the benefits of professional treatments. Encourage staying hydrated, incorporating anti-inflammatory foods like omega-3-rich fish and berries, and supporting gut health with probiotics. Share the calming effects of stress reduction practices such as facial massage and acupressure to promote both skin and mental well-being.
By addressing inflammation's root causes and strengthening the skin barrier, estheticians can offer lasting solutions. Gentle care, barrier support, and environmental protection transform inflamed skin into a healthy, radiant complexion while empowering clients to maintain results.
Empowering Clients Through Education
Empower clients by educating them on how to build a barrier-strengthening foundational routine tailored to their unique needs. Start by listening to your client's concerns, which will help guide your product recommendations and approach. During facials, take time to explain
the benefits of each product you're using, highlighting how they contribute to strengthening the skin barrier and addressing underlying issues. Offer simple, manageable changes to their routine to avoid overwhelming them, focusing on essential steps that will deliver results. By clearly explaining your product choices and the reasoning behind them, you build trust and provide clients with the knowledge to make informed decisions about their skincare.
Estheticians who use this approach deliver lasting results that enhance both skin health and appearance. By guiding clients toward balanced routines and tailored solutions, you foster trust, satisfaction, and loyalty, building meaningful, long-term relationships.
Co-written by Naima Solano, Lead Educator & On-Staff Esthetician, and Dominique Caron, Founder, CEO, & Lead Formulator of Apoterra. Since 2012, Apoterra has been handcrafting radically fresh, results-driven skincare, blending traditional herbalist techniques with science and clean, natural ingredients.
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