PICTURE
PERFECT The word alone brings images of flawless models to mind. Its name glides on the tongue and seemingly floats weightlessly, just like the light makeup falls on the skin—airbrush. More and more people seek airbrush makeup applications, which continue to gain popularity among celebrities, brides, and salon and spa clients. With all the hype about airbrushing—perhaps the most sanitary of all makeup applications since it is misted onto the skin directly—it is well worth adding to your tools of the trade, as it can increase revenues and vamp up your menu. Airbrush makeup applications are a bit pricier than “regular” makeup, and artists charge an average of 25% more—many salons and spas schedule an average of 1 hr for the application. Clients should be advised to schedule an airbrush makeup test to see its look and wear on their skin before doing it for an important event (pique the interest of your clients with some before and after shots, and by letting them
know of all you can achieve with the wonder mist: blush, eye-shadow, contouring and highlights, and even flawless Halloween makeup). A 2 day workshop or an average of 14 to 20 hr will teach you how to use the airbrush, apply the makeup, cover up imperfections, tattoos and more (most classes will cover basic applications, equipment knowledge, color matching, and client etiquette). Then you just have to practice, practice, practice! Not only can you add airbrush makeup to the list, but airbrush tanning and airbrush oxygen facials as well, once you have the proper equipment and skills. While all our clients dream of having that glamorous, immaculate and picture perfect look that airbrush makeup has come to be associated with, airbrushing works best with good skin, as it is a very thin product that cannot be applied heavily (it does not necessarily look great on overly textured skin, such as skin with blemishes or wrinkles), yet it is that very light application that gives it a natural, glowy finish.
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by Pamela Hackeman
September 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
LNEONLINE.com • Page 121
image | picture perfect
HERE IS A RUNDOWN OF WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT AIRBRUSH MAKEUP: Equipment you will need ● Airbrush ● Compressor ● Hose with connector ● Airbrush cleaning station ● Airbrush cleaning brushes ● Water and/or alcohol, 244 fluid (for silicon makeup)
● Product to be airbrushed
Types of airbrushes Single action for larger “canvases” (tanning)— when lever/trigger is depressed, both air and “paint” come out simultaneously. Dual action for smaller “canvases” and detail work (makeup/oxygen—depress lever down for air, and pull back to mix “paint” with air).
PAINTING THE CANVAS You will need to put concealer on first, especially under the eyes, since spraying in this area will not work well. Once you have the color and consistency that you want, you should test it on your hand first. I usually hold my other hand over the model’s ear and pull back on the trigger away from their face and keep it moving across the cheek and jaw line. I use overlapping circles so as not to leave streaks. The PSI on the compressor should be between 8 and 10 on the face and 4 to 6 around the eyes. I prefer a dual action airbrush because it is more versatile, and you have more control over the flow of product coming out, thus a more precise application. The tendency is to make too many passes or be too aggressive with the amount of flow. Less is more could not be truer in this case.
Types of compressors Cosmetic (available at cosmetic stores or online). Industrial (available at large hardware stores). A good rule of thumb when it comes to pounds per square inch (PSI, which measures pressure) with airbrush makeup is that the larger the canvas, the higher the PSI.
AIRBRUSH MAKEUP Here are some steps to help you: ● Connect hose to airbrush. ● Connect hose to compressor. ● Adjust PSI to 8-10 for the face; 4-6 for the eyes; 8-15 for the body.
● Fill color/fluid cup halfway with liquid. ● Make sure the consistency is no thicker than milk. ● Put cap on so it does not spill. ● Press trigger down for air (in dual action) and for both air and liquid (for single action). ● Always start your aim away from face or body, then move onto face and body keeping trigger pressed down. ● Pull back trigger (on dual action) to release fluid to mix with air. ● Always ease on and ease off when pulling back triggers to avoid splatters. ● Use overlapping circles as you apply product, keeping the airbrush moving to avoid wet spots that may drip. ● Allow time for layers to dry.
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For airbrush makeup, you can use any liquid foundation that is diluted until it has the consistency of milk. Airbrush makeup is packaged for convenience and may need to be diluted as well. For water-based makeup, add water to dilute. For silicone-based makeup (longer wearing) and oil-based makeup, add 244 fluid (a silicone fluid) or plain alcohol. Water-based makeup tends to become darker or orange when it dries and leaves more of a matte finish. Silicone-based makeup may wear longer, but it will tend to be shiny looking unless you add alcohol to dilute it. You may dilute in a separate cup or in the fluid cup of the airbrush. You can mix it in the airbrush by filling the cup only halfway, and add a few drops of diluting fluid as needed. By pulling back on the lever/trigger gently with one hand and holding the tip closed with the other, you mix colors and diluting agents effectively, which is called “back bubbling.”
image | picture perfect
POST PAINTING The hardest part of using an airbrush is cleaning it effectively so it does not clog (which can make the makeup splatter uncontrollably or not come out at all).
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Flush airbrush immediately after use with appropriate diluting fluid to avoid clogs inside any part of the airbrush.
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Test airbrush by spraying plain water or alcohol to see if it is clean.
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SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
● Never blow air pressure directly into eyes, nose, ears or mouth.
● Make sure you ask your client to hold their breath and keep their mouth closed when working near their nose. ● If you are using an air supply with a canister tank, make sure to empty the compressor of excess air since the contents are under pressure and could cause an explosion if dropped. ● Make sure you use good ventilation and are cautious about breathing in fumes since a fine vapor is created. n
Take airbrush apart and clean each part, especially the nozzle, with small brushes. If necessary soak them in water or alcohol first.
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Reassemble airbrush and retest with water or alcohol to see if it is clean and operating correctly.
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS Clean—the nozzle of an airbrush is extremely tiny and clogs very easily. It is a good idea to take apart and clean regularly with brushes and reassemble. Airtight—if there is any problem with it not working, usually there is a part that needs the slightest tightening. Take it apart and tighten each part again. Delicate use—when taking the nozzle off (if it is a screw type mount), make sure to twist counterclockwise so as not to break it off inside the chamber.
Pamela Hackeman shares how to “Add New Services and Income to Your Menu with Basic Airbrushing” at the Image Seminar at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, CA on September 8. Visit LNEonline.com for more information.
Pamela Hackeman is the creator and president of Behind The Seen Organic Face & Body Care, a product line for organic skin care and makeup. She has more than 13 years of experience teaching makeup at Make Up Designory in Burbank, CA. She has also conducted seminars in skin care and makeup, both in the United States and abroad.
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