LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals January 2019
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FROM THE
EDITOR
Bio-Therapeutic
TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED
SKIN CARE
The New Year is finally here. Are you ready? It seems like the months fly by faster and faster every year – even more reason to hit the ground running this January! Have you taken the time to sit down and commit to new habits, resolutions and goals for 2019? Writing down your New Years resolutions is the best way to start taking action towards making 2019 your most successful year yet! Whether you want to gain a new certification, increase revenue, or enhance your work life balance, take a few moments to list your goals and define a few micro-goals to help you stay on track throughout the year! This January, we are kicking things off with a complete Guide to Skin Fitness. Industry experts discuss all things lifting and toning, from microcurrent, to facial massage, facial muscles and boot camp facials to get your clients’ skin in shape for the New Year. As gym memberships spike this January and clients kick things into gear, encourage them to show the same commitment to their facial muscles and set skin goals for this year! I hope each and every one of you found time to relax and enjoy the company of friends and family over the Holidays. Now, let’s get down to business and make 2019 the year of the powerhouse esthetician!
Happy New Year,
bio-therapeutic.com
Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com 4
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January volume 34 number 1
contents 4 From the Editor 82 Advertiser Index
40
Muscle Map
16 pH, Please!
46
Microcurrent Facial Workout
52
Boot Camp Facial
56
Facial Exercises for Lifted Skin
60
Tighten and Tone Photo Feature
skin
20 Skin News
guide
10 Adaptogens
Spa of the Month
66
The Basics of Energy Work
28
Anti-Aging Below the Neck
70
Bukuchiol
32
Spa News
74
Organic & Wellness News
o&w
24
28 Anti-Aging Below the Neck
66 The Basics of Energy Work
33
#esty2esty
76
Beauty Biz Boost
34
New Year’s Resolutions
80
Image News
for Spa Managers 38
Business News
34 New Year’s Resolutions for Spa Managers
image
business
spa
10 Adaptogens
39 Skin Fitness Guide
76 Beauty Biz Boost
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Digital Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com
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Director of Marketing Stephanie Batier Rives De Lavays Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Anabel de la Vega Andrea Gregaydis Cristina Beecham
Cyndi Clarke Dr. Ben Johnson Dr. Craig Kraffert
Elizabeth Canler Laura Martinez Tony Picano
V I S I T
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Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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Adaptogens in Skin Care
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Increase the skin’s ability to adapt and flourish by Dr. Craig Kraffert
The term anti-aging is dead. Adaptogen is poised to become the drop-in replacement for ‘anti-aging’ in skin care nomenclature. After all, what was anti-aging about, anyway? The concept suggests a battle with time that is not win-able. Everyone ages - every single day - by definition. It’s inevitable. The key for us mortals is to adapt our body (and our skin in particular) to optimally cope with the multitude of environmental stressors and normal physiologic processes that damage health and beauty with time. With the death of anti-aging, a void was created in the modern skin care lexicon for a common descriptor to categorize the multitude of substances that help preserve and enhance skin health and beauty. Enter the adaptogen. Adaptogens are substances that help protect and improve skin health and beauty by allowing skin to better adapt to the potentially deleterious effects of environmental stressors/toxins and natural physiologic processes.
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skin Adaptogens in Skin Care
To maintain optimal beauty and health, what matters is how we manage the multitude of forces that influence damage – from the cellular to whole body level – from the standpoints of both health and beauty. Factors that influence cumulative cellular damage and subsequent physical decline are numerous. For the skin, they include ultraviolet, infrared and visible light, topical irritants and allergens, and a diverse array of cytotoxic compounds such as heavy metals, formaldehyde, and volatile hydrocarbons. Other detrimental skin forces include oxidative and inflammatory stressors and any substance that contributes to cellular cytoplasmic or DNA damage and/ or prevents DNA repair as well as any substance that shrinks the DNA caps called telomeres that tend to shrink with time in correlation with cellular decline. The term adaptogen can be applied to identified active extracts and elements that provide protection from these processes.
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What are adaptogens? Derived from the Russian word adaptatsiya and first observed in published works in 1969, the term adaptogen, per Merriam Webster Dictionary, denotes a nontoxic substance and especially a plant extract that is held to increase the body's ability to resist the damaging effects of stress and promote or restore normal physiological functioning. The concept of adaptogenic stabilization and optimization of body function is as old as humankind. Only the broad and common use of the term adaptogen in skin care is new. This newly popularized descriptor helps intellectually encapsulate the concept of beneficial naturopathic and herbal remedies with a succinct one-word descriptor. Instead of broadly considering an ingredient ‘anti-aging,’ classifying an ingredient as an adaptogen suggests that that it helps the body adapt to a specific problem by a certain mechanism. When an author claims adaptogenic properties for an ingredient they understand that their readers will infer that more infor-
mation as to the specific pathway of the benefit(s) is known/available. The definition of the term adaptogen allows for very broad inclusive latitude of substances. While current widely cited references have short lists of known adaptogens, the actual number of ingredients that qualify as adaptogens per the broad formal definition is hundreds to thousands. The term applies accurately to a wide array of topically applied active extracts and active molecular elements.
Benefits Adaptogens help maintain and/or optimize skin’s physiologic function while providing a shield from stressors, thus enhancing skin’s aesthetic, health, and longevity over time. Adaptogens, when considered for topical application, do not directly decrease emotional stress. A person with calm and stable physiology, however, may have more physiologic capacity to handle emotional stressors. In this
skin Adaptogens in Skin Care
way, adaptogens may help minimize negative physiologic impacts of certain emotional experiences. Immune function is greatly influenced by physiologic homeostasis. By stabilizing physiologic processes, adaptogens may have general nonspecific beneficial effects on immune function. Additionally, certain adaptogens have scientific data suggesting specific immune functional enhancement
Choosing Adaptogens Picking the best adaptogens can be interesting. There is no authoritative research or text on the best selections for each specific personal situation. Fortunately, adaptogens, by their very definition, are non-toxic at therapeutic levels so trial-and-error is a reasonable approach to finding the best adaptogenic regimen. These natural substances do take time to provide benefits, so give each adaptogen time before considering a change. Health food stores (for oral adaptogens) and online resources may offer the best guidance now. There likely will soon be an explosion in products defining themselves as adaptogens. In fact, a small skin care company trademarked the term ‘adaptogen,’ but this trademark will likely be invalidated given the term’s history and wide common usage. Much like the terms ‘natural,’ ‘organic,’ and ‘cosmeceutical,’ ‘adaptogen’ is ‘a shining city on a hill’ – all good with no detractors…and extremely difficult to fully vet in terms of ensuring that any product or formulation truly meets the formal definition of the term. As adaptogen becomes a more trending buzzword, expect many products to proclaim adaptogenic properties – some accurately and others less rigorously. Most adaptogens active within skin are topically applied. Increasingly, however, skin-focused adaptogens are taken orally. Heliocare is a perfect example of an increasingly popu-
lar oral adaptogen. The fern extract within Heliocare is anti-inflammatory and defends against sunburn and ultraviolet induced skin damage in a very noticeable way.
Adaptogen Skin Care Adaptogens provide protection from skin stressors. These include inflammatory, circulatory, oxidant, and ultraviolet aggressors. Topical applications of natural extracts with anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, brightening, ultravioletprotective, and vaso-stabilizing properties (among many others) benefit skin by promoting a calm and normalized appearance and delaying the cumulative changes that occur in skin appearance and function with time. Many protective, brightening, and rejuvenative aspects of skin care are the result of adaptogens. A few com-
panies have so many adaptogens in their product line that they are subcategorized into, for example, ‘active extracts’ and ‘active elements.’ Most adaptogens are botanical extracts or molecules derived from botanical extracts. Others, such as purified elemental sulfur, are non-plant derived but fully adaptogenic. As an example of where this trend is going, a recent high-end facial sunscreen was developed that includes, among several others, four adaptogens with published scientific data suggesting anti-cancer benefits. A potentially anti-cancer adaptogen-rich sunscreen is an amazing concept. What follows is a list of these four unique adaptogens to help provide a sense of what adaptogens are all about and where this trend is going in the professional skin care arena:
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skin Adaptogens in Skin Care
• Phellinus linteus extract is derived from a medicinal mushroom used in Korea for centuries to treat various ailments. Harvard University and other researchers have recently reported it to be a promising anti-cancer agent. It possesses antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties and has been recently shown to provide benefit for those with eczema.
• Thymus serpyllum extract – wild thyme – is a potent antioxidant preparation with anticancer properties.
• Opuntia ficus-indica extract is derived from prickly pear cactus. Rich in antioxidant flavonoids, it has been scientifically demonstrated to have anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties.
• Aspalathus linearis extract is derived from antioxidant and phenolic compound rich leaves of Rooibos, a broom-like red bush from South Africa. Contains quercetin and luteolin which are reported to have anti-cancer properties. To summarize, the term ‘adaptogen’ is poised to become the dropin replacement word for ‘anti-aging’ in skin care nomenclature. Adaptogens have been part of human life from the very beginning but the term adaptogen is a newer vocabulary word. Until recently, we thought about these substances in a broader context and used different words to describe them. Adaptogens are harmonious with the concepts of naturopathic therapy and Eastern medicine. Utilization of the term adaptogen enables better reflect upon the human instinct to develop safe natural substances that promote health, wellbeing, longevity, and beauty - through protection of the body from environmental and physiologic stressors and optimization of beneficial natural physiologic processes.
Craig A. Kraffert, MD is a broadly educated (Revelle College at UCSD) and well-trained biochemist (with past employment at Scripps Institute), physician and surgeon (UCLA) and dermatologist (top rated Univ. of Miami) with a very large multi-location practice. Married to a lovely Korean woman for 20+ years, Dr. Kraffert is the founder and developer of Dermstore. com – one of the biggest/best skin care eCommerce sites and the biggest dermatologist founded site. Dr. Kraffert has been working collaboratively with Korean skin care product formulators/inventors for over thirteen years. 14
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pH Please! How Acidity and Alkalinity Affect the Skin by Dr. Ben Johnson
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Esthetic schools around the country instill the basics on epidermal anatomy and physiology, and the lesson always includes a discussion of the importance of skin pH. For decades we have actually attempted to “balance� the pH of the skin with toners and the like. Do we really have an impact on the skin when we apply acidic or basic topicals? The answers may surprise you.
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skin pH, Please!
Understanding pH The skin’s pH varies from more basic to more acidic as we move from the hypodermis to the stratum corneum. As is typical of this remarkable organ, the inherent design is brilliant and highly protective. First, let’s establish that the pH within the dermis is about 7 and declines to as low as 4.5 near the stratum corneum. With each layer of the epidermis, the skin’s processes adjust to the environment. Keratinocyte formation prefers a pH of around 6, whereas enzymes in the middle of the epidermis that create our lipid barrier function best at a pH of 5. The common bacteria found on the surface (P. Acnes and S. Epidermidis) of the skin participate in the production of our protective barrier by creating acidic proteins that maintain the pH at the surface around 4.5. While they have no problem surviving if not thriving in those conditions, their actions prevent opportunistic infections from occurring in most cases.
pH And Skin Care Low pH acids are often used in daily skin care regimens that carry pHs in the 2 to 4 range. What effect does this daily application have on the pH of the skin and how long does it last? Since we know that our bacteria are an actual part of the epidermis, we need to question why we want to harm them. There is increasing evidence that acne is not a bacterial problem and bacteria live happily and protect us from birth until the day we die. Applying high dose, low pH acids to the skin will harm the “good bacteria,” along with removing lipids and coenocyte layers. Instantly, the skin will drop its outer pH by a modest amount as the blend of the existing pH and the acidic product may temporarily drop the stratum 18
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corneum pH to 3.5. This triggers the lower layers (stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum) to increase their lipid production and barrier replacement components. However, by damaging or removing the most acidic portion of the skin, there will be a natural tendency for the skin’s pH to assume the pH of the layers deeper in the epidermis, since the components making up the acidic surface environment have been damaged. The acids will often be neutralized within minutes and the repair of the stratum corneum becomes the skin’s next priority.
The Problem With Soap According to research, soaps often have a negative impact by temporarily increasing the pH from 4.5 to 6.6. These changes tell an interesting story.
Alkaline soaps (pH 9.5) had an alkalinizing effect on the skin as we might imagine, but the neutral soaps (pH 5.5) also had significant alkalinization. There is an immediate effect from the pH of the solution being put on the skin, but the lasting effect on pH appears to be coming from the disruption of the surface bacteria and lipids. You would think that the two soaps would be significantly dissimilar because of the pH differences, but instead it was their effect on the epidermis that made the most lasting changes.
Alkaline Effect On Skin pH Alkaline water (pH of 8 or higher) has also been shown to change the pH from 4.5 to 6. This reflects the saturation of water into the top layers. If this is not accompanied by scrubbing or a prolonged soak, then the effects may
skin pH, Please!
The Optimum pH
Using products closer to a pH of 5 is the most ideal way to maintain good barrier health.
The takeaway from this conversation is that the skin has many balances and counterbalances to create its complex environment. Making alterations to one aspect of the skin often has ramifications somewhere else. However, it’s clear that using products closer to a pH of 5 is the most ideal way to maintain good barrier health. Remember that a strong barrier means less inflammation from the sun and environmental pollutants, more hydration, less sensitivity and improved appearance. As we acknowledge that bacteria in the gut is very important to digestive health, we too must recognize that bacteria is good for skin health. Ben Johnson, M.D., is a physician, internationally renowned educator, entrepreneur, inventor and outside-the-box thinker who has spent most of his career in esthetics. He is the founder and formulator of two innovative and successful skin care lines, most recently Osmosis Skincare. Dr. Johnson is the creator of groundbreaking supplements that have significantly improved the health and appearance of many individuals around the world.
not be that significant. This water absorbs or evaporates fairly quickly, which means the pH likely lasts anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours. Most shower water has a pH of around 7, which is a little better, but it’s easy to see why our skin is dry all the time between water jets and strong soaps. Typically, it takes the skin one to three days to repair lost lipids and bacteria. Alkaline solutions will temporarily saturate the skin, and this effect lasts a few hours. That is only assuming that we are not stripping the barrier twice daily during recovery. The most important changes that occur, the lasting ones, happen when we overly acidify or alkalinize, resulting in structural changes. It’s clear that most of the products we put on the face should be as close to a pH of 5 as possible to reduce the amount of barrier disruption, improve hydration and skin sensitivity. Cleansers should also be in that pH range. But more importantly, if they are exfoliating in any way, it worsens the pH disruption. Any scrub used on the skin will raise the skin’s pH. Toners, while in many cases alkaline, would only serve to worsen the structural damage (if they are alcohol based) and overly alkalinize the skin. LNEonline.com
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PHILADELPHIA, PA April 7 & 8, 2019
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The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Business Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
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THE SPA AT
THE FOUR SEASONS Surfside, Miami, FL
A modern luxury on Miami Beach
SPA OF THE MONTH
by Cristina Beecham
The recently erected residences at The Four Seasons Surfside on Miami Beach’s iconic Collins Ave are bringing a new era of glamour to the hotel’s long-standing history. Guests and residents benefit from the property’s very own world-class spa. With a clean, modern esthetic and expertly curated niche skin care brands, the exquisite spa at The Four Seasons Surfside offers exclusive treatments you can’t find anywhere else. We had the pleasure of visiting Spa Director Laura Martinez as she settles into her new home at The Four Season Surfside.
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spa Spa Of The Month
AESTHETIC Before arriving at the spa, guests are delighted by the elegant architecture of the hotel entrance. As they make their way through the lobby and entrance halls, a sudden shift in architecture invites them to the newly constructed residences, which house the spa. The crisp white floors and walls offer a refreshing atmosphere, leaving guests ready and excited for their spa treatments. Down the hall and up several white marble steps is the spa front desk and reception area. Guests are greeting by friendly, youthful staff and are immediately attracted to a modern seating area with a modern Italian vibe. The 26
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spa’s retail area sits in the entranceway, composed of white shelving displayed with uniquely curated skin care and body care lines. After checking in, guests are invited to the equally gorgeous locker rooms, featuring several vanities, lockers and Instagram worthy sitting areas. Once changed into their crisp white robes, guests are invited to lounge with an ocean view in beautiful natural lighting on the spa’s lounge chairs. Here, the spa’s therapist seek their guests and invite them to the treatment rooms.
SIGNATURE TREATMENT During our time at the spa, we received one of the spa’s most popular facials using Biologique Recherche (6o min-
utes, $285). To begin, our esthetician, Reina, invites us with the welcoming ritual, featuring a healing blend of essential oils. After a few deep breaths and gentle careses, we are eased into a state of relaxation and ready to begin the facial. Reina uses a milky cleanser to perform a double cleanse, removing makeup and skin debris. No steam is used in this facial. After thoroughly removing the cleanser with cotton 4x4s, Reina applies a clay based exfoliating mask, the star of the facial. The mask invokes a light to medium tingle, which Reina expertly prepares us for. While the mask works it’s magic, Reina massages the arms and hands. The mask is removed with tepid water, and we are ready to begin the calming and infusion portion of the treatment. Next, our esthetician applies a soothing cream mask topped with gauge, and soothes the skin using cooling globes. The icy touch helps ease any redness post-peel, and helps to tighten pores. After the skin is calmed, our esthetician selects a customized serum cocktail that sits chilling in ice during the treatment. Cold is a strong element in the spa’s most popular facial, which perfectly balance the warm ocean view from the treatment room. After hydrating the skin with serums, Reina uses an oxygenating face cream to finish the treatment. The skin is left perfectly even, resurfaced, and glowing.
SERVICE MENU The spa offers several results-oriented facial treatments, body treatments, massages, gentlemen’s services and globally inspired treatments. One such notable treatment is the Traditional Hammam Experience (90 minutes, $413). Described as a “Time-honored ritual of exfoliation and cleansing,” the service incorporates traditional Black Soap and Keesa, along with a purifying clay body mask and body butter. The spa also offers Shirodhara treatments (60 minutes, $275), a traditional Ayurvedic scalp treatment that opens
spa Spa Of The Month
the third eye chakra to “quiet the mind and promote peace within.” Male spa guests can enjoy a specially crafted Muscle Melt Hot Stone Massage (60-120 minutes, $170-$405). This massage soothes over-stressed muscles and improves energy flow and circulation with aromatherapy oils and heated stones.
MARKETING Like most resort spas attached to a chain hotel, the spa shares its social media presence with the hotel. With a following of over 23 thousand on Instagram, The Spa at the Four Seasons Surfside benefits from the hotels following. With beautiful professionally done photographs, call-to-action posts invite followers to book spa appointments and indulge in that month’s special offerings. The marketing team makes use of special hashtags, such as #FSSpa and takes part in trendier tags, such as #WellnessWednesday to further gain followers. The Four Seasons Surfside also participates in the current number one trending marketing strategy: influencer marketing. The Spa invites local influencers to indulge and photograph
the spa, benefiting from boosted social media followers and engagement! Influencer marketing is great for spas of any size, as there are hundreds of small, local influencers that would love to promote your service on their social media.
Rundown The Spa at The Four Seasons Surfside 9101 Collins Avenue Surfside, Florida 33154 fourseasons.com/surfside 305.381.3333 Launch: 2017
Services: facials; massage; men’s services; body treatments; wellness services; yoga
Spa Director Spotlight Laura Martinez is the Spa Director at The Spa at The Four Seasons Surfside. With an impressive resume of experience in the spa industry, Laura brings her industry knowledge to the recently opened spa. Upon first visiting the spa, Laura remembers “walking into this beautiful environment and thinking, what is the story here? I think it’s a cultural one, and for guests, it’s a journey.”
Spa Director: Laura Martinez Amenities: gender specific locker rooms; steam; sauna; relaxation area; tea room; six treatment rooms; traditional hammam; two spa cabanas
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion
R e t a i l : B i o l o g i q u e R e c h e rc h e ; Elemental Herbology; Miriam Quevedo; Susanne Kaufman; Royal Fern Skin Care; Soleil Toujours
for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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Today, making an effort to take care of our bodies has become a growing concern. Clients often spends thousands of dollars in their lifetime to ensure their facial skin looks as young as possible well into their 50s and 60s. However, clients often neglect the remaining skin below the face, including the dÊcolletÊ, hands, legs and feet. These areas typically show the first signs of aging, such as sagging skin, dehydration, and sun spots. Make sure the face matches the decollete! Encourage your clients to book maintenance treatments for the rest of their body, not just their face! Clients may look 25 years old from the neck up, but if their bodies are sun damaged and rapidly losing their once spotless look, they won’t be fooling anyone.
Anti Aging
eck N
BELOW THE
Treatments for ageless skin all over by Aurora Solis
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spa Anti Aging Below The Neck
Spot treatments are a great way to provide clients with services for the body because different areas have different concerns. So let’s look at those parts of the body that might betray our clients’ true “maturity,” and explain how to get them on the path to agelessness.
DECOLLETE The décolleté can be one of the sexiest parts of the body, but it’s often left exposed to the sun and the elements causing dehydration, hyperpigmentation and premature aging. Prevention is so important when it comes to sun damage, so make sure your clients are using sun protection. Rejuvenate your clients in the spa from the neck down with the following treatments:
Physical Exfoliation A scrub or a facial for the décolleté could be excellent add-ons for your client to extend any treatment they are having done on their faces. A good exfoliation followed by a moisturizer (perhaps a first in that area for your client) is a great way to prep the décolleté for future anti-aging treatments.
Peel Use a light chemical peel (alpha hydroxy acids) to help rid the skin of dull, dead skin cells. For best results, peels can be done once a month; patients with extremely damaged skin may benefit from more frequent intervals (perhaps once a week for one month) to get desired results quicker. At home, have them continue the renewal with a rich, nourishing body cream with glycolic acid and natural oils such as coconut or mafura to brighten the skin and help bring back its youthful appearance.
Laser A series of five treatments (spaced by three to four weeks) such as Fractionated laser, Fraxel, or Intense
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HANDS Pulse Light, can reduce sun damage, redness, and stimulate collagen growth. Maintenance will be needed when brown spots reappear about twice a year.
Microdermabrasion Another good option for mild to moderate brown spots and sun damage. A series of three to six treatments (with three to four weeks in between) will rejuvenate skin.
Microneedling The device stimulates the healing cascade to produce healthier looking skin. A series of four to six treatments with a one to two month interval will improve skin texture and reduce wrinkles (micro-needling is an anti-aging treatment that will work well in other areas of the body).
Hands can be a telltale sign of aging. They naturally have thinner skin and less fat than your face and neck. Plus, constant exposure to the sun and elements make them drier, hyperpigmented and older-looking faster. At your manicure stations or as an upgrade to a facial treatment, offer to care for your clients’ hands and bring back their glow.
Scrub Start off your hand treatment with a relaxing soak followed by an invigorating scrub, paying extra attention to the nails and nail beds.
Mask A shea butter based mask—extracted from the nuts of the karite tree—nourishes, protects and rejuvenates skin. Two other popular ingredients during the dry, winter months are paraffin (the
spa Anti Aging Below The Neck
LEGS
same can apply for foot care), which rejuvenates, hydrates, relieves joint stiffness and increases range of motion, and seaweed, full of active trace minerals, which improves skin suppleness and elasticity, as well as detoxifies, tones and cleanses. Send clients home with an antioxidant rich hand cream to help defend against the elements and premature aging
IPL IPL A series of three to four treatments, spaced three to four weeks apart, will help dark spots fade away.
Microdermabrasion This is yet another option to remove age spots and give your clients fresher looking hands. Depending on the severity of the spots, a series of four to eight treatments might be necessary (spaced two to four weeks apart), with maintenance treatment up to six times a year.
Although dehydration due to depilation, varicose veins, spider veins, cellulite and stretch marks can happen almost anywhere on the body, they are often found on the legs. Varicose veins are swollen, twisted and sometimes painful veins that have filled with an abnormal collection of blood. Spider veins, telangiectasia, are small, widened blood vessels on the skin. As estheticians, we can help prevent unsightly veins by encouraging stimulation in areas prone to them. Providing a detoxifying leg treatment such as with a seaweed mask coupled with a massage is one way to get your clients’ legs to look and feel amazing.
FEET The skin on the soles of the feet is much thicker than on the rest of the body— up to 1.4 mm! This area actually has an extra layer of skin to help endure the daily wear and tear of walking around in stilettos, going for jogs or simply standing. This barrier is important to keep intact as dry, cracked feet can be a war zone of bacteria if not properly
cared for. Steer clear of foot razors, which can lead to permanent damage, up the risk of infection with cuts and the possible transference of blood between clients. A much gentler option is to soften feet with a pumice stone, foot file or exfoliating scrub.
Soak Relax tired feet with a soothing soak, then exfoliate them with a natural sea salt scrub, a sugar scrub or even a walnut shell scrub to soften them at your pedicure bowl.
Mask Continue your feet rejuvenation treatment with a mask, followed by a massage and a thick moisturizer. For athome maintenance between pedicures, recommend that your clients use a foot cream with tea tree, lemon, rosemary and mint oils. Such ingredients provide antiseptic and anti-microbial properties to help keep feet clear of troublecausing bacteria. It’s important that we understand how to care for the skin on all the different parts of the body to achieve a beautiful complexion for our clients from head to toe.
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Spa
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Ginkgo Booster Amarte's new muscle relaxing toner promotes blood circulation.
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esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! he Esthetician Edit duo is kicking off the New Year with some powerhouse features on the blog! Check out this month’s #esty2esty sit down with celebrity esthetician Nerida Joy on our YouTube channel, as well as an Insta-worthy tour of this month’s Spa of the Month, The Spa at The Four Seasons • Inside this month’s Spa of the Month
• Receiving The Four Seasons Surfside’s Signature Facial!
Surfside! Make sure to follow @estheticianedit on Instagram to see what we’re up to!
Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!
• Our #estyeditor got a first look at Hydrafacial’s latest formulations!
• Behind the scenes with Nerida Joy!
Follow
@estheticianedit
Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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New Year’s
Resolutions for Spa Managers How to set up for success in your spa by Laura Martinez
2019, Welcome to another year of unlimited relaxation, aromatherapy, perfect skin & hair, spa treatments, luxury, and all smiles! Isn't this what everyone think our job is? The Spa Director role brings a unique dynamic that I'm positive no other leadership role presents. We need to do it and know it all: Employee Relations, Finance, Sales, Retail, Merchandising, Educators, Role Models, Marketing, Guest Relations, and more. Also, I came across an article once, and I quote: "A Spa Director is a host, cop, mom, confidante, punching bag, referee and superstar of the spa. The spa director is also subject to the praise, indifference, or the wrath of everyone they supervise or to whom they answer, (and to those whom may we serve) The prestige and satisfaction available in this career is earned through the exposure to conditions and situations that contain a potential to negate many of the perceived benefit"
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business New Year’s Resolutions for Spa Managers
And after this scary description about the Spa Director role, I said: "and I LOVE IT" The opportunity for growth in all areas: personal, spiritually, mentally and professionally is endless. At this time of the year, we've made plans, created strategies and action plans for everyone else but us. Let's pause, reflect and have fun with a few 2019 Resolutions that will lift our spirits, and by inertia, everyone else's we lead, support and engage with: Mingling both personal and leadership resolutions are a perfect match for Spa Leader. Here are a few I found to be of great use for us in the Spa Industry: IMPROVE COMMUNICATION: I find Spa teams to be one of the hardest to ensure consistent and structured communication. Spa teams have a unique scheduling flow compared to other departments. Everyone arrives 36
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to work at different times and days. We also deal with full time, part time and on-call status employees, affecting the interest level and engagement. Besides the traditional technology tools and monthly departmental meetings, using an active Communication Board helps to centralize all type of news, highlights, and information. Most importantly, ensuring that reading this board is part of everyone's work arrival procedures will keep everyone engaged and well-aware. Our goal as leaders is to keep this board active. Here is where the challenge is presented. Block time daily (preferably first thing in morning) to update this board, as well as to observe and hold your team accountable to stop by and read it before anything else. IMPROVE INBOX MANAGEMENT: I'm sure that Time Management is a top subject every year. Who doesn't want to have more time to do other things? Creating good habits to "man-
age" time is an essential part of being more effective in our role. In my case, I'm consistently challenged by the excessive amount of emails nowadays. Find and allocate specific times of the day in where you will dedicate it to read AND answer email. Set a reminder meeting notification, and treated as an actual meeting reminder. Allocate 1 hour of your time each time, and stick to it. While working on other projects, do not sidetrack, close your inbox if you need to. Remember: part of this resolution is to create good habits. If you open an email, you have to resolve it and answer it right there and then. If you do not have time for it, do not open it. WORK DETOX: A day of total physical and mental disconnection from work. I struggled with this for many years throughout my career. I've observed this to be a natural tendency among many Spa Directors. The passion can be muddled with our daily lives, and we must be able to recognize it. Work continues in your mind way after hours of operations, as well as in your days off. Find fun things to do around town during your days off. Use your social media event calendar or just Google "thing to do around town today"
business New Year’s Resolutions for Spa Managers
You'll be surprised how many places you haven't visited in your city just yet. Local museums can offer an excellent source of distraction and knowledge. Local markets, street fests, botanical gardens, classes or lectures, etc. Get off your couch, leave the cleaning for another day, and expose yourself and family to new things! FIND YOUR GENUINE SELF: A human quality I've always embraced and appreciate with people is Genuineness. In our Spa world is still not an easy task, but if we start with us, the reciprocated effects may take place. By taking time to learn and find your authentic self, you will be able to display your values with confidence. You will no longer seek for other's approval, or to have the sense of comparing yourself among others. The perception and feeling of a more Genuine you will allow you to build better relationships
HC
with your co-workers and team members while improving trust in your work environment. GET TO KNOW YOUR TEAM: "Your team is the most valuable asset." Cliché and repeatedly said, but very accurate. As Spa Directors we work with such profound group of people. They usually are more sensitive. Yet, we tend to leave this part for the end as a result of being too involved with the daily operational challenges. Learning not only about their interests or birthdays, but to know their preferred activities can provide you with excellent insights about the individual strengths or weaknesses. As a result, you‘ll be able to create better strategies to motivate and engage them and to increase their performance and productivity. A win-win for all, especially for guest’s satisfaction results.
There is never a dull moment at the spa, and because of it, we have plenty of subjects to create an infinite list of New Year Resolutions. As Spa Directors we are exposed to a fantastic group of talented people and seeking growth in both: career and personal areas, will benefit us, our company and our team to reach success. But remember, to take care of others, you must first take care of yourself. Cheers to your New Year resolution list. What Would You Do for 2019?
Laura Martinez: is the Spa Director at The Spa at The Four Seasons Surfside. With an impressive resume of experience in the spa industry, Laura brings her industry knowledge to the recently opened spa.
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Business
NEWS The Latest from Altair Instruments The NewApeelÂŽ System creates customizable treatmetns with diamond microdermabrasion.
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Bio-Therapeutic’s New Team Member!
Presidnet David Suzuki welcomes the new Account Manager for Ireland, Annie Browne.
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A New Director at the Willow Stream Spa
The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn welcomes Jane Turner, with over 30 years of experience around the globe.
Fairmont.com/Sonoma
Beau Institute Announce Their 2019 Training Schedule
The newly improved primary training class will include five days in the classroom, a one-day webinar, working on live models, and exclusive training materials.
Fitness Skin Guide
How to Strengthen Facial Muscles and Lift Aging Skin
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Muscle Map A guide to facial muscles and how they change over time by Andrea Gregaydis
Understanding how to prevent muscle deterioration begins with an essential key: having an understanding of the muscles! We all know that we have roughly 650 muscles in throughout the human body, but did you know that 43 are in the face alone, and 36 of those are used for facial expressions! Laugh lines, crow’s feet and forehead wrinkles; every one of our “expression lines" come from using our facial muscles. Muscles contract which causes the skin on top of them to wrinkle.
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Muscle Movement
The Map of the Muscles
Muscles move through contraction; tightening and extension or relaxing. During contraction, the point of insertion moves while the point of origin stays fixed. As we age, muscles gradually lose tone. In fact, muscle function begins to deteriorate as early as our 30s. It is said anywhere from three to five percent of muscle is lost every decade after the age of 30. Muscle movement also takes longer to respond to our brain signals as we age. This contributes to age related muscle loss called sarcopenia or “vanishing flesh.” Our facial muscles are what we call skeletal muscles, which are lean muscles that attach to bones and are under voluntary control. The amount of muscle tissue and size of these muscle fibers gradually decrease over time. With age, the number of muscle fibers that contract faster decrease much more and much quicker than the number of muscle fibers that contract slower.
The following muscles are the muscles that we as estheticians will have the most experience with, and influence on. Let’s begin from the top and move down to help locate them easier. Our Frontalis is the muscle that extends from the forehead to the top of the skull. This muscle is responsible for raising our eyebrows and drawing the scalp forward. Procerus is located between the eyebrows. This muscle covers the bridge of the nose and lowers the eyebrows. Next up is the Corrugator muscle. This is located right about the brow bone area. It is responsible for drawing your eyebrows down. The above muscles play a big role in the formation of forehead wrinkles and those pesky eleven lines between the brows! Moving further down the face, just below the eye, starting at the cheekbone we have:
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Zygomaticus, which actually consists of two parts on each side of the face Zygomaticus Major and Minor. These muscles are located outside the combers of the mouth. They draw the mouth up and back and are responsible for laughing and smiling. The Quadratus Labii muscles are a group of several muscles that are all located around the mouth. For instance the Quadratus Labii Superioris consists of three muscles that are located above the upper lip and raise the upper lip and nostrils. These muscles help us show distaste. The next set of three muscles are the Quadratus Labii Inferioris, which are literally the opposite, they are located below the upper lip. These muscles pull the lower lip down or to the side and helps to express sarcasm. The Risorius is located at the corner of the mouth, it draws the mouth up and out as in grinning. Our Caninus muscles are located above the corners
Skin Fitness Guide
of the mouth, which raise the angle of the mouth. Think of snarling, like a canine would do! Moving just below the corner of the mouth is the Triangularis which draws the corners of the mouth downward to express sadness or frowning. The Orbicularis Oris circles around the entire mouth and plays a role in both puckering and wrinkling the lips. Just think of kissing or whistling, or even drinking through a straw. This muscle contributes to the first signs of aging in individuals that smoke. The repetitive motion of puckering over time will show as fine lines and wrinkles along the lip line. We complete our muscle map with the Buccinator and Mentalis. The Buccinator muscle is located between the jaws and cheek, this compresses cheek to release air, as in blowing. Finally our Mentalis, which is located
at the tip of the chin, pulls lower lip up wrinkling the chin. This is responsible for expressing doubt.
Muscles Over Time If you are anything like me, I am sure you made all of the facial expressions as you read about them just now. The fact is, every facial movement or expression we make, especially repetitively will contribute to wrinkles, fine lines and muscles deterioration over time. Some of our expressions happen naturally like laughing or smiling. While other muscles movements we do may be from bad behaviors, such as smoking or not wearing glasses and squinting! The natural aging process is the biggest factor when it comes to fine lines and wrinkles, that is a “no brainer.” As we age, the facial muscles begin to shrink. This shrinking is what is called “atrophy.” When atrophy starts to oc-
cur, our skin simultaneously begins to lose its collagen and elastin, our support system for the skins cushioning and flexibility. In addition, simple gravity over time pulls down on both the skin and the underlying fat, and in turn creates a sagging appearance and loss of firmness. An enormous factor in premature facial wrinkling is smoking. It has been shown that smoking can contribute to the breakdown of muscle mass. It dramatically decreases blood flow and oxygen to the muscles. It rapidly speeds up the normal aging process. Although one may not notice immediate effects and long term effects may take up to 10 years to start to notice. Smokers will develop fines lines around the mouth and deeper forehead wrinkles at an accelerated rate over non smokers. Aside from the natural aging process, smoking is next in line for facial wrinkling.
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Skin Fitness Guide
It prevents our skin from holding onto important nutrients such as Vitamin A and C. With over 4000 chemicals in tobacco, the collagen and elastin in our skin barely stands a chance. If you needed more of a reason to quit smoking, just think of the long term damage it will have on your beautiful face! Excessive alcohol intake can leave the skin looking sallow and discolored, due to an increase in dehydration over time. If our body is dehydrated for prolonged periods of time, eventually our tissues, including those that make up our muscles, will suffer. Don’t worry you can still enjoy your favorite cocktail on occasion, but moderation is key!
Genetics and Muscle Tone Genetics plays a very crucial role in just about every aspect of our selves, including aging and muscle deterioration. Take a look at the similarities you may see through generations of family
members. Do you have your grandmothers under eye circles or your moms body type? We can thank genetics for that, some things are simply out of our control! Individual genetics can plays a role in muscle building and muscle loss as well. The speed of muscle growth, the rate as to which we are able to build and maintain lean muscle are all influenced simply by genetic factors.
excess weight can add to poor muscles tone by cover the muscle tissue and hindering the muscles appearance. As estheticians, our job is to use our knowledge and expertise to educate our customers to best care for their skin and it’s health, muscle health contributes to this. Having a clear understanding of the role that muscles play and the opportunities to best care for them, helps our customers stay beautiful and youthful for years to come.
Feed Your Facial Muscles Finally, weight management and nutrition have a role in muscle health. Muscles tissue is made of protein, specifically different types of amino acids. If we are not taking in enough protein our muscles will not work effectively. Being underweight reduces the natural fat in our facial structure, this can add to lower muscle mass due to the bodies inability to hold on, or add to, the protein needed to build and maintain muscles. While on the converse side,
Andrea Gregaydis is a Licensed Esthetician and International CIDESCO Diplomat. She holds additional licenses as a NYS Instructor and Nail Technician. Andrea is the Lead Instructor at the Aesthetic Science Institute and has over ten years of experience as a practitioner, team coordinator and role model for hundreds of future skin care professionals.
As we age, muscles gradually lose tone. In fact, muscle function begins to deteriorate as early as our 30s.
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It’s time to do this!
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How this stimulating modality improves facial contours by Tony Picano & Malinda McHenry
If you have looked in the mirror only to see that Mother Nature has silently sabotaged your face making you look much older than you feel, you are not alone. With each passing decade, the muscles in our face begin to elongate, droop and sag. Mix in some cumulative sun damage, bad lifestyle habits, fine lines with wrinkles and you will find yourself telling the mirror “I need to do something with this face!� Clients are seeking the safest and best investment for their rejuvenation services. They are telling us they want results with little to no down time.
Microcurrent
Facial
Workout LNEonline.com
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Skin Fitness Guide
What is Microcurrent? Microcurrent is scientifically proven to provide the solution for you and your clients. Microcurrent is a low level electrical current that when delivered with the appropriate signal or frequency will tighten skin, increase hydration, tone and lift facial muscles. Done with consistency, the results will be cumulative and long lasting. How does microcurrent work? Well it works very much like exercise works for the body. The very same principles of using exercise to reshape, tone and tighten your body are applied to the skin and facial muscles. A facial workout is just as important as a body workout. In order to understand how Microcurrent works this way we first need to understand the aging process. As we age our metabolism slows down and we begin to lose our ability to maintain water or hydration at the cellular level. It’s kind of like watching a juicy plump grape reduce into a sweet wrinkled raisin. Maintaining proper hydration throughout the day is important. More specifically, it’s about getting the water inside your cells. If we can stay perfectly hydrated in the intracellular environment, our biological aging process will slow down and may even reverse itself. Water is the ultimate mechanism by which toxins and naturally produced oxidants are removed from within our intracellular environment.
ATP and Hydration Good to excellent hydration is also critical for proper ATP production. Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) is a nucleotide used in cells as a co-enzyme. It is often called the "molecular unit of currency": ATP transports chemical energy within the cells for metabolism. In a dehydrated state, toxins accumulate, and ATP production is reduced. The clinical manifestation of aging and inflammation is ultimately a loss of fuel production at the mitochondria level. 48
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The mitochondria are the cells power producer responsible for optimal ATP production. The mitochondria take the sugars and fats convert them into ATP. They do this through a process called cellular respiration. During this process, the mitochondria converts 1 ADP into 1 ATP. That very last step in the process requires four Hydrogen atoms, two Oxygen atoms and 2 electrons. This equates to two water molecules and two electrons. Microcurrent increases the electrical charge within the cells creating an electric potential difference between the intracellular and extracellular environments forcing water inside the cells. Simply put, Microcurrent in proper conditions will increase the skins hydration levels. When our skin is in an
ideal hydrated state, tissue impedance is low and current conducts throughout the cells and tissues without resistance. In a dehydrated state, tissue impedance is high, and current does not conduct very well as the resistance within the cells and tissues reduce the TRUE deliverable current values significantly. Your hydration level can be assessed by measuring your phase angle. Phase angle (PhA) is a direct measure by Bioelectrical Impedance Analysis Technology. Your phase angle score reflects the relationship between the resistance component (R), meaning skin and tissue are in opposition to the passage of electric current, and reactance (Xc). Translation: If the cells are not at an optimal (PhA) state then the benefits
Skin Fitness Guide
from microcurrent is not achieved and in fact the microcurrent will be impeded to penetrate at the cellular level. A person’s phase angle measurement naturally decreases with age. Phase angle values vary from person to person and is directly associated with how biologically healthy and hydrated the skin is. A phase angle score of 12 is ideal health and a phase angle score of 3 indicates impending cell death. T he v er y sam e p r i n c i p l e b y Bioelectric Impedance Analysis is used with Microcurrent to determine the appropriate signal and current levels that are most efficacious within the skin layers you are trying to reach, ie the epidermis, dermis, connective tissue and muscles.
Microcurrent in the Treatment Room So, you may be asking yourself why didn’t they teach me this in school? We have all been educated on the use of direct current devices for beauty like galvanic current for iontophoresis, high frequency for its germicidal properties and even faradic current used in EMS (electrical muscle stimulus). These are all forms of microcurrent. Those science and safety principals which we were taught for electro therapies are fundamentally sound, but without knowing the client’s hydration levels in advance how effective are their results? We know that water is a great conductor for current but without knowing the clients (PhA) or hydration levels, techni-
cians just increased the strength of the Microcurrent on the skin to get some sort of feedback from the client. The results can be; client discomfort, micro burns or the client just feels like they are being shocked. So why the resurgence in Microcurrent treatments? Well, todays advanced technology is why we are seeing an increased demand for these what seemed “old” but is now “new” beauty services. Are you asking yourself if it's time to add Microcurrent to your menu? Let’s look at all the things this wonderful technology can provide for your clients. Microcurrent with (PhA) technology not only will allow us to create facial lifting treatments that work but will increase product penetration, stimulate collaLNEonline.com
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gen and elastin, force blood/lymphatic circulation and finally will tone the independent facial muscles. All together as a prevention service your clients will age slower and for rejuvenation treatments your clients will look and feel younger. Even when combined with other treatments like peels, facials, RF, LED, and in some states micro needling, microcurrent is today’s technology to beat for maintenance. Many microcurrent technologies also offer face and body combined applications. This is seeing a large increase in demand from new moms to baby boomers who loved tanning beds or laying in the sun with their baby oil and iodine mixtures! Loss of body elasticity and tone is another sign of aging and let’s not forget our body is skin too. Most clients will need an initial series of six to ten treatments, one to two times per week. Once satisfactory results are achieved a maintenance treatment is recommended every 6 weeks or whenever your client wants a quick pick me up! Keep in mind that skin types vary greatly from person to person and hydration levels change from day to day within the same client. This can be a result of stress, low mineral levels, hormones, hygiene and other medical factors. Currently most micro toners on the market will boast a 500μA energy levels but those may not be at an optimal level for every client. True performing microcurrent machines are a dynamic Intelligent system that uses complex algorithms to calculate optimal current and signal levels by measuring Bioelectric Impedance Analysis. (PhA). Dynamic intelligent machines work by measuring the client’s skins density to deliver the appropriate power and microcurrent needed for maximum results over the conducted surface area being treated by pads, probes or gloves. Some of your clients may also be on the band wagon of take-home devices. While this new (PhA) feedback technology is not yet available for homecare devices there is an argument for 50
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product penetration and increasing hydration in the skin with FDA approved devices for home use. Most over the counter devices currently sold as micro toners are no harm however, they will not deliver the kind of results that professional devices can. When you are looking to expand your technology offerings in your practice do your homework. Get feedback from colleagues, check out the company’s business ratings, where they manufacture, educational training, warranties and what scientific studies have they done to support their results and look for systems with Dynamic Intelligent applications. If you are thinking of where to invest in 2019 consider everything Microcurrent can offer you and your clients.
To n y P i c c i a n o h o l d s a Masters in Electronic Engineering. With more than 30 years of experience an engineer with a focus on specific frequency electrotherapeutics, he also holds a prehospital medical license as a Paramedic. Tony Picciano is CEO of NeurotriS™.
Malinda McHenry is the owner of The Academy of Advanced Aesthetic Arts. She is a licensed esthetician and master educator with over 20 years of industry experience.
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The
boot amp
Facial C
Whip Your Clients' Skin into Shape! by Elizabeth Canler
Everyone starts off as youngsters with that skin we all know and love: baby skin. It’s skin that is full of collagen and elasticity that we innocently take for granted well into our 20's. During these years, our skin’s ability to renew itself is immense and the supply of youthful cells is bountiful. The skin has a natural glow, while the cheeks are rosy and full of life. There are no dark circles or tired looking skin, even if you had a wonderful time well into the wee hours of the night. That is, until you start to age. Let's face it, the minute clients hit their upper 20's, they believe it's all downhill from there! They start to lose that "baby skin" and start to chisel out, making their features more pronounced as they start to come into their very own grown up look.
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The fact is, we start producing less collagen and elasticity, as well as less cell turnover, which is the ability for skin to renew itself naturally. Ever notice when a baby gets a scratch, it's practically gone in less than two days? It's like a miracle! Well, once our clients hit their upper 20's and 30’s, that decreases dramatically. Those scratch marks, scars, burns or bug bites tend to linger longer than they’d like and you, the esthetician, find yourself looking for scrubs and creams to speed up the healing process as our client’s body finds itself taking longer than it would to heal when they were younger.
It’s A Good Day To Age! Luckily, we live in an era where technology and ingredients in skin care have really come a long way! I always tell my clients, “It's a good day in age...to age!” Technology is definitely on our side! It was only 20 years ago when, if you had acne scars, fine lines, sun spots or dull skin, your options were quite limited. You pretty much had to resort to the good old faithful few ingredients like retinol or glycolic, salicylic and lactic acids, which are still among the most popular in resurfacing and retexturing skin. However, today we have beautiful combinations of acids like kojic acid and glycolic with mandelic, or even salicylic acid with green tea. These combos really make the acids less irritating and provide added benefits of antioxidant protection.
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Today, we have revolutionized the application of acids by layering several different acids that are pH balanced to create less irritation, yet promote more exfoliation and stimulation of skin cells. This is where the concept of the Boot Camp Facial came into inception for us estheticians that want to deliver a high level of skin fitness by adding layers of acids, fruit enzymes and microdermabrasion, in one single treatment! The Boot Camp Facial The Boot Camp Facial is the perfect way to whip your client’s skin into shape. With a four step exfoliation process, your client’s skin is stimulated on multiple levels to promote cellular turnover over the next few days. Just a a great full-body workout that leaves you feeling it the next few days,
The Boot Camp Facial is the perfect way to whip your client’s skin into shape. this facial does have some downtime. But, the results your clients see over the next three to four days are unbeatable! Give your client’s skin a workout with the perfect combination of topical ingredients and exfoliation! Protocol To perform your own Signature Boot Camp Facial, begin with a gommage exfoliation of choice to help remove the glue that holds skin cells together. By rubbing off the gommage vigorously, you begin the exfoliation process and stimulation of blood circulation and create the environment for the next step, which is to apply a gentle acid peel of choice like the ones mentioned. For example, a two percent salicylic acid peel followed by an eight percent glycolic acid. Through the acids, you
Skin Fitness Guide
are now gently exfoliating on a cellular level. The next step in the Boot Camp Facial is to perform a diamond microdermabrasion treatment for mechanical exfoliation, which is removing layers and layers off the stratum corneum, or top layers of the skin. You can follow with a few extractions if needed to ensure clean pores. The last and fourth level of exfoliation is to nurture the skin with natural ingredients such as crushed grape seeds and fruit enzymes. The client leaves with an overwhelming sense of pure, fresh and revitalized skin! The next day, your client’s skin glows beautifully and feels like you definitely did something to stimulate healthy cells to tighten and brighten every inch of the face and your neck! On days three and four, client will experience some shed-
ding as the skin is reproducing itself and continues the exfoliating process well into these days. Downtime By day five or six, clients wake up in the morning and just can't help but immediately notice how smooth, even toned and vibrant their skin actually looks and feels! Yes, it's an aggressive protocol. But, it is a controlled, light injuring of the skin. The downtime is just a few days with aftercare instructions of hydration and avoidance of sun exposure. Don't worry, your sun worshipping clients (we all have them!) can still enjoy a little vitamin D from the sun in just a few short days, but always with sun protection. If treating hyperpigmentation caused by acne or sun is something
you want to improve on in your practice, this is your new go-to facial! For those clients who feel their pores are expanding or their skin just looks uneven, dry or dull, the key is to give their skin a good workout with the Boot Camp Facial. The average person trying to reduce pore size, fine lines or acne scars will usually require a series of six to twelve sessions, depending on the skin type. They are performed on a weekly to bi weekly basis and sun exposure should always be avoided as much as possible during the treatment sessions. That is why the winter season is the best time to perform this heavy duty facial that really trains the skin to become healthier, tighter and brighter! It's also the best time of year to have your clients use a little retinol every night to maximize the results you are looking for! So go ahead and get your client’s skin in the best shape of their lives by performing this results oriented treatment: The Boot Camp Facial! LNEonline.com
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Facial
Exercises for Lifted Skin Give skin fitness a try in your spa by Cristina Beecham Facial exercise, also known as face or facial yoga, is far from a new fad. We have systems and practices to tone every muscle in our bodies. But still, the facial muscles seem to get left behind. Facial exercises are a great way to encourage our facial muscles to stay lifted and alert. This can prevent sagging and sallow skin in the future. Facial exercise is a fun and unique way to interact with clients and teach them some take home skills!
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Skin Fitness Guide
History of Making Faces Some say that the technique developed in Asia belongs to the 5,000-year-old system of Hindu traditional medicine. Others attribute it to ancient Chinese healing tradition and link it to the story of an empress, whose thirst for youth led to the creation of a rejuvenating program that included toning up facial muscles.
What is facial exercise? • A series of specific facial movements from 10 to 30+ moves • Fingers are placed strategically to help or avoid pulling • Movements must be done once or twice daily • Can be done sitting, standing, or lying down Some facial exercises also include: • Breathing • Facial massage • Acupressure
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If anti-aging treatments and products are among the most coveted (and among the best sellers) in the spa, proponents of facial exercises make the following argument: People go to the gym to keep their body toned and in shape, the same should apply to the muscles of the face. Indeed, just like one lifts weights, squats or stretches to keep their body looking healthy and young, facial exercises consist of movements created for the muscles of the face to keep them toned and release tension. Specific facial movements target the 57 muscles of the face and neck. The benefits include anti-aging, reducing lines and wrinkles, lifting and firming, improving skin tone, reducing headaches and eye strain, relaxing tension, giving an energetic appearance to the face and a healthy glow. By carrying out regular facial exercises, you promote the circulation of blood to the different areas of the face, thus replenishing the oxygen supply in the muscles and the skin. This will result in a bright complexion and beautiful healthy glow.
Although facial exercises are meant to be practiced daily by oneself, incorporating them as stand alone classes in the spa (to introduce your clients to it) or as add-ons after a treatment can be a lucrative inclusion that’ll bring an edge to your locale. Spa’s offer their facial exercises in hour-long classes, either held privately or in small groups—most hour long private classes run around $100, while group classes go for about $70 per person. Books, DVDs and CDs (which you can retail at the spa boutique) often come with the programs to allow people to practice at home. Facial exercise experts say the demand for their moves has been growing.
Facial Massage Workout Facial exercises can even be incorporated into your facial massages. Targeted maneuvers to work specific facial muscles, such as the lines around the mouth, eyes and forehead, can be performed while still remaining relaxing for the client. More stimulating massage can also be done to target the deeper
Skin Fitness Guide
muscles of the face, such as fast pettrisage movements and light slapping of the face. Tapoement and piano fingers are another great way to stimulate facial muscles through relaxing massage. After or during the treatment, explain to your client why you are massaging certain areas in specific directions and show them how they can do the same at home. Here are two examples of exercises that can be performed both in the treatment room and at home:
Facial Exercise for the Eyes To reduce lines and wrinkles around the eyes and to make the eyes more open and energized, place both your middle fingers together between your client’s eyebrows. Apply pressure to the outer corners of the eyes with your index fingers. Invite your client to look up and start to move the lower eyelids upward. Have your clients perform a strong squint, relax and repeat. To finish, have your client squeeze his or her eyes shut for 10 seconds, then relax. To open the client’s eyes, tone the upper and lower lids, reduce puffiness and smooth crowes feet, place your index fingers together between your client’s eyebrows, no space between the fingers. Wrap your thumbs up high at the outer eye corners as if you are placing a pair of sunglasses around your client’s eyes. Pull your index fingers slightly between the brows. Pull your thumbs up slightly toward the client’s ears. Inivte your client to squeeze his or her eyes tightly shut. Count to 40. And have your client relax.
movements to your client at the end of a treatment can be a great way to spark their interest thus market the classes.
Events and Parties Facial exercise parties are a fun way to bring in your favorite clients and their girl friends for an unconventional workout! Use this opportunity to show new clients what you’re about, and show them your knowledge. Host an event and carry the books and the DVDs in your spa. Results come quickly and it’s really fun and non-invasive. Classes can be offered as packages while materials sold can serve for homework assignments.
people who have facial challenges, or who’ve suffered a face trauma or injury, those who are recovering from a surgery and people afflicted with Bells Palsy—a disorder of the nerves that controls movement of the muscles of the face. Facial yoga enthusiasts see few occasions where one should exercise caution and perhaps refrain from the “workout.” It is recommended to wait for Botox injections to settle (about seven days) because mobility is restricted after injections. Always encourage your clients to speak to their physician before trying any new form of exercise.
Good for all
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of
There are no age limits and very few contraindications to facial exercises, in fact proponents of the technique contend that the younger one starts, the better off they’ll be. In addition facial exercises are extremely beneficial to
Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
Facial Add Ons Facial exercises can also easily be implemented as an add-on after a facial, a massage or any other rejuvenating treatment. The client can be taught a few face exercises and self massage for the face at the end of a treatment to do at home between treatments, which not only adds a niche angle to your services but maintains the benefit of the treatment. Offering to teach two LNEonline.com
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THE
BASICS OF ENERGY WORK
Understanding where our energy comes from and the role it plays in the treatment room by Anabel de la Vega In Chinese Medicine, the balance in between Yin and organs is considered an active constant balance of the system. By pressing different pressure points, we can activate different organs and their re-activation in their function. Yin usually represents everything about the world that is dark, passive, hidden, receptive, cool, soft and feminine. Yang represents everything about the world that is illuminated, evident, active, aggressive, controlling, hot, hard, and masculine.
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organic & wellness The Basics of Energy Work
intricate web of interconnecting energy lines. Once a person masters and understanding of this meridian system they will know the secrets of the flow of QI energy in the body.
What is energy?
Our energy itself is composed of matter, which is nothing more than energy condensed to a slow vibration made from carbon, nitrogen, oxygen. We humans can control our own energy through different ways. Energy has no absolute language, only feelings, meaning, our emotion and our responses. Each of our organs is encased within the largest organ, sending messages to our brain. Energy works in different ways that we can see, vibrate, feel, emotional and more. Grounding is one of the most important ways to control energy. Anyone new to energy needs to learn that very basic of grounding. It is important because it helps you to stabilize our energy body, which inevitably stabilizes our emotions and focuses our thoughts. Energy is a measurement of the ability of something to do work. If our energy is disturbed, that is the flow of forces that are called channels in the body, also called meridians. We have six principle meridians:
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1. TAI YANG which is at the temporal
one sided or migraine, headaches, eye issues, pain swelling, redness toothache, facial paralysis. 2. YANG MING associated with high fever, sweeting, extreme thirst, flushed face and chest. 3. SHAO YANG that triggers gall bladder and stomach. 4. TAI YIN abdominal distension, vomiting, anorexia and diarrhea. 5. SHAO YIN aversion to cold, spiritual fatigue, cold limbs, diarrhea, stool containing undigested food, nausea, insomnia, dry mouth and throat yellow and scanty urine. 6. JUE YIN cold limbs, low body temperature and aversion to cold, irritability, feverish sensation, thirst and dark yellow urine. Every organ and major region in the body needs energy in order to function. These meridians act as reservoirs of QI in the blood, connecting, and maintaining good health. The meridian system of the human body is a delicate, yet
Energy is a life of energy that circulates throughout the universe and within each individual organism. Energy manifests itself in different levels of density. These levels are called depths. Breathing is the basic of the life energy. It enables us to unload accumulated stress and stagnant energy via exhalation, which helps us to revived abundance of fresh air and purify energy. When the life of energy moves through us without obstruction, we are in perfect harmony. Obstructions can lead to physical, mental and emotional disharmony, which are created by attitudes. Body functions are attributed mainly to the five that are considered the solid organs: Heart, Lung, Liver, and Kidney. Our understanding of their functions was derived from external observation rather than anatomical study and bears little relaxation to standard Western understanding. Each solid organ has an associated hollow organ or bowel to which meridians are linked.
Yin and Yang The concepts of the Yin and Yang are central to Chinese philosophy. Yin and Yang are the two great powers that alternate the aspects of the creative force of the central energy and all things. Yin is cold, dim heavy with a downward motion, passive and inhibiting. Certain organs are ruled by Yin, which accommodates our body into distress. Yang is warm, bright, light moving upward, active, or exciting. The underlying premise is that the human body is an integrated whole. All its organs and tissues are organically connected and can be divided into two opposite aspects, namely Yin and Yang. The upper part of the body is Yang and the lower part is Yin, exterior
organic & wellness The Basics of Energy Work
Yang and interior Yin. The outside part of the arms and legs is Yang and the inner sides of the arms and legs are Yin. The Heart is predominantly Yin, but it is in the upper half of the body, so it is rather more Yang. Without nutrient substances, there would be no sustenance for functional activity. The production of different nutrients substances that are supposed to be consumed by the energy that we produce, will help restore and protect our organs from invasion of different diseases. Diseases occurs when Yin and Yang becomes excessive or deficient. These two energy forces also adapt and blend to our changing needs in what the Chinese refers to as mutual restraint. As well as the external factors, this force of energy is blame of that if we get ill our energy id is disharmony.
Grounding is one of the most important ways to control energy. stomach is associated with nostalgia, obsession and reflection. Our stomach promotes nutrition to our system, while the spleen is part of our lymphatic system. Human beings are made of living cells, and when we look into each cell we see a membrane which is full of energy running through our vital organs. A healthy state of the body leads to a peaceful mind, since mind and body are an invisible entity in our Chinese Medicine.
What is Qi? Qi is often understood in the West as our inner energy level that actually comes in a wide variety of types. Its main characteristic is motion, which is the activity of life. The more you move your energy, the better it is for the organs to be healthy. All vital activities of the human body are explained by changes and movements of Qi. Qi, is an essence and a mixture of energy derived from the food we eat and the air we breathe. By comparing Qi and blood, Qi tends to be more Yang in nature while blood more Yin. The energy that flows through each of our organs in control by Qi, Yin and Yang which its functions are to maintain the inner control of the central energy so our organs will not suffer. When these energies are distortion, blood will not be able to flow easily and it will cause a deficiency in our system.
Anabel de la Vega is a certified, licensed specialist in massage therapy, reflexology, herbology and crystal healing with more than 18 years of experience in the beauty industry. She conducts educational seminars in Florida, Venezuela and Colombia and is highly respected in her field.
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Energy and Emotions Our body reacts naturally to different stimulus, whether is internal or external. This process of different stimulus has reactions to different organs which help to carry out different patterns of energy flows. Our nervous system is the one that controls flow of emotions that leads to energy. When our emotions are too strong, or negative they can have a damaging effect on our organs. According to Ancient Chinese Medicine, smiling, and joy will help this emotions to evolve and get better each day of our lives. Healthy emotions like smiling, joy, happiness can control our mind and lead us to stimulate the function of certain organs. Lack of concentration, insomnia, nervousness will promote stress and lack of energy. We are energy and we have to control it.
Storing Energy in the Body Our liver is in charge of storing and regulating the circulation of our energy. If we abuse this organ with aggressiveness we are going to be having trouble excreting our toxins and deliberating frustration towards ourselves. Our
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The latest natural alternative to retinol by Aurora Solis
As one of the few “gold standards” in skin care, retinol has been a staple in every esthetician’s arsenal for decades. And, it’s no doubt that it will continue to be a first-rate treatment for decades to come. Whether aiming to treat hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, acne scars, or large pores, retinol is a skin care powerhouse. But, as with most ingredients in today’s age of technology, more naturally derived compounds with similar benefits are taking the stage. The green revolution is finally matching up to the power of synthetic active ingredients. Such is the case with retinol’s new, natural counterpart: Bakuchiol. Making waves in the topical skin care world, find out why bakuchiol is the new natural alternative to retinol.
Bukuchiol LNEonline.com
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organic & wellness Bukuchiol
Retinol Refresh Before we can evaluate the present and future of retinol skin care, let’s take a step back and take a look at how we got here. Retinoic acid, the predecessor of today’s modern retinol, has been isolated and used topically for almost a century. Retinoic acid is the active molecule that interacts with specific receptors in the skin, leading to biologic changes in the skin. Retinoic acid was the original prescription choice of physicians for topical use, but its surface activity has typically caused irritation, redness and discomfort in many who use this topical. Retinol is the precursor, or pro-drug, of retinoic acid. This means that topically applied retinol converts into retinoic acid, usable by the skin. Retinol is less stimulating on the surface of the skin, leading to reduced irritation and therefore a higher likelihood of client compliance and positive skin improvement.Retinol itself was first isolated in the 1930s, but in a very unstable form. The first study using retinoids to treat acne was published in 1943, and tretinoin, the retinoid most commonly used today, was first used topically for skin conditions in 1958. Its use in anti-aging treatments was pioneered in the 1980’s. Today, retinol is available over the counter in a variety of forms. Adapalene, a retinol derivative popular for treating acne is now available over the counter in the United States, previously only available with a doctor’s prescription. Most consumer brands have some form of retinol in their range, though decidedly not a strong as professional strength options found in dermatologist offices and esthetician treatment rooms.
What is Bukuchiol? While is seems retinol is now common place in skin care, it’s now getting a run for it’s money from the latest natural retinol alternative: bukuchiol. Bukuchiol
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Comparison is an extract found in the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant and the Otholobium pubescent plant. Native to India, the Psoralea corylifolia plant blooms soft purple flowers. In fact, some topical products using the ingredient even have a purple hue. Recently, the plant-based retinol alternative has exploded in popularity. Bukuchiol is high in antioxidants that are found in the seeds of the psoralen corylifolia plant.The overall benefits of the extract include: • Smoothing Skin Texture • Lightening Hyperpigmentation • Skin Firming • Photo Damage Repair • Diminish Lines and Wrinkles Let’s dive deeper into how this trending ingredient compares to our good friend, retinol.
Retinol works by increasing cell turnover from the inside out. Unlike a peel, that exfoliates from the outer layers of the skin, retinol works by speeding up the production of new skin cells within the skin, encouraging the old cells to rise to the top and slough off. When applied to the skin, retinol interacts with retinoic acid receptors in the skin and triggers a biochemical domino effect that leads to activation of certain genes that control collagen production, and reduction of the release of inflammatory mediators. The process of accelerated skin turnover associated with retinol is often confused for exfoliation. It’s not. Although it can cause shedding of the skin, it is not a traditional exfoliant in the way that acids and scrubs are, working on the top layers of the skin. Bukuchiol doesn’t quite function in the same way. But, like retinol, bukuchiol has shown a promising ability to increase cellular turnover. In
organic & wellness Bukuchiol
fact, a 12-week study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science comparing retinol and bakuchiol showed “significant improvement in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall reduction in photo-damage,” without undesirable retinol side effects such as dryness and irritation when using bakuchiol. 46 percent of participants saw skin brightening; 39 percent saw an improvement in their skin tone; 52 percent saw increased skin radiance; 46 percent saw an improvement in the eye area; 29 percent saw decreased appearance of lines and wrinkles; and 39 percent saw increased skin firmness. Bukuchiol is also anti-inflammatory and gentle for all skin types. And, unlike retinol, bukuchiol is safe to use on clients who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Overall, bukuchiol is a much gentler alternative to retinol. Another benefit of incorporating bukuchiol into your treatment plans is that it does not have the same reutilization period as traditional retinols do. Retinization is the skin’s adjustment period. During the first few weeks of retinol usage, clients may experience increased skin shedding, flaking or surface dryness. It is important to remind your clients that their skin is simply adjusting, and to continue use of the product. Although topical retinoids can bring about profound changes in the skin of both acne and mature skin clients, many clients fall off the “retinol bandwagon” because they cannot tolerate the flaking, dryness and irritation. Bukuchiol does not trigger the same adjustment period and it can be used safely without any risk of flaking, dryness or irritation that comes with retinol usage.
Encourage clients who are new to retinols, or those who have tried retinol in the past but couldn’t bare the side effects to use a bukuchiol serum twice daily. Bukuchiol is suitable for clients with aging skin, hyperpigmentation and even acne. The skin care industry is driving full force towards finding new, more stable and less irritating natural alternatives to some of our favorite active ingredients. With more and more clients requesting more organic and natural skin care treatments and home care, we can be empowered in knowing that today’s modern natural can provide clients with results similar to those that are obtained with conventional active ingredients.
Recommended Usage Bukuchiol extract is most commonly found in serums. Incorporate this retinol alternative into your facial protocols after a thorough topical exfoliation.
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How to market your makeup services with confidence by Cyndi Clarke
The makeup industry continues to grow, reaching over $40 billion this year. When looking at a typical spa’s total revenue, makeup applications and retail sales present a very exciting, positive opportunity for growth. By implementing fresh new ideas and innovative approaches to promote your makeup business in the spa, makeup applications and retail sales can really grow your business. Most women don’t like to leave their homes, much less their spa, completely barefaced after a treatment. If you’re not touching up your clients’ makeup after a treatment, you can be sure she is applying her own in her car before continuing on with her day. This is a big opportunity missed!
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image Beauty Biz Boost
Makeup services provide an opportunity to make sure 100 percent of your clients are walking out the door feeling confident. This begins by making sure that you are marketing your makeup services throughout your location. The first step to marketing makeup applications (and in turn, sell retail) is to include makeup applications on your service menu. The best way to create awareness of your product line is to make it visible throughout your spa. Having a full display available for guests in the waiting area will create curiosity and encourage them to try it on. The following are some great ideas for adding makeup services onto any salon or spa service.
Post Treatment Makeup One of the easiest ways to promote makeup in your location is following a facial service. Seize this opportunity to educate new and returning clients 78
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about the importance of ingredients in their makeup, and earn their trust by recommending a makeup that will promote the continued health of their skin, rather than compromise the results of their facial treatment. Today’s client is very savvy when it comes to product knowledge and interest in ingredients. It’s imperative that clients understand that the ingredients within their skin care and makeup regimens are clean and healthy for their skin, but they should also know which ingredients they should avoid. This is where you and your makeup line come into play, providing an opportunity to create awareness and demand for your offerings. This cross-selling makes it essential that your entire staff is educated on your makeup line. They should also be provided with the products to wear themselves. It’s a known fact that we recommend what we wear, and with so many different makeup lines that
provide much more than just beautiful makeup, the personal testimonies of your staff can differentiate your offerings on a new level. Estheticians should have small makeup displays in every treatment room, with a small offering of products that can be applied on the spot before the client steps out of the room. Offering a complimentary touch up at this stage can often lead to a full service application. Try to avoid verbiage such as “makeover,” as this can make the client perceive that the service will take a long time, or it might make them feel like they are being sold to. The best way to position makeup services is to offer a “touch-up.” After the quick application, hand the client the mirror so she can see the amazing coverage she has. If she enjoys it, bring her to the main display in the waiting area to offer a quick two to five minute touch up. Offering the service as a complimentary add-on does not take long, and it is cost effective. From here, just this simple touch up can lead to her booking a full on makeup lesson or application. Owners need to make sure that these touch-up services are not offered as an option, but rather automatically included as part of the service.
Post Massage When booking other types of treatments such as massage, body treatments and nail services, which are harder to cross-over, it’s more challenging to promote makeup services and retail— but you can still make it happen in a way that feels natural. Clients can be invited to come in 15 minutes early for their appointment, during which time they can sit with the professional makeup artist or esthetician on your team. They should be asked to bring in their daily makeup bag so that while she waits for her massage or nail appointment, she and the
image Beauty Biz Boost
makeup artist or esthetician can go through it together. The artist or esthetician can educate, demonstrate and potentially present new retail makeup options that are a better fit for the clients’ skin. Massage therapists can easily recommend makeup post-massage. When clients lay face down in the cradle, it can smudge mascara and other makeup, creating the perfect opportunity to recommend a quick touch-up before the client leaves the treatment room. Makeup remover swabs, a dual ended cotton swab with a botanical based, hydrating makeup remover built in, are perfect in this situation. You can say goodbye to the raccoon eye in a matter of seconds! The same idea applies to
body treatments. Since using showers to wash off body scrubs or masques is quite common, these treatments present an excellent opportunity to squeeze in a makeup touch-up post shower.
No Artists On Duty? If you have staff members that are not fully trained makeup artists, or they just don’t feel comfortable applying makeup on clients, there are some fun and innovative ways that they can help with retail. Again, make sure that the entire staff wears the makeup so that they can easily talk about it with clients and answer any questions with a personal touch. Another good way to increase sales with people who aren’t
comfortable with makeup applications is a little healthy competition. Creating a fun incentive for whichever staff member sells the most makeup over a predetermined period always shows an increase in retail dollars. If your staff doesn’t retail makeup, they are missing out on substantial profits!
Cyndi Clarke is the Owner of Lily Grace Cosmetics, a boutique luxury spa in downtown Ann Arbor, Michigan. Cyndi is an experienced businesswoman with outstanding sales and marketing experience in the prestige beauty industry..
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NEWS Mirror, Mirror
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January2019
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84.................. Altair Instruments.............................................................................................................altairinstruments.com 15.................. Advanced Medical Aesthetic Solution....................................................................................meditimeusa.com 79.................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.................................................................................beauinstitute.com 4,5................. Bio-Therapeutic..................................................................................................................bio-therapeutic.com 7.................... Celluma....................................................................................................................................... biophotas.com 21.................. Circadia..........................................................................................................................................circadia.com 51.................. Dermaware............................................................................................................................... dermaware.com 69.................. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc................................................................................................................ dr-jeff.com 2,3................. Eminence Organic Skin Care......................................................................................... eminenceorganics.com 83.................. Equipro USA.............................................................................................................................equipro-bty.com 19.................. Gold Cosmetics...................................................................................................................goldcosmetics.com 75.................. Grandelash MD.................................................................................................................... grandelashmd.com 37.................. Hale Cosmeceuticals...................................................................................................halecosmeceuticals.com 22,23............. Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia.......................................... Philadelphia.skincareshows.com 64,65............. Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas.............................................................Dallas.skincareshows.com 14.................. Nourishing Botanical.................................................................................................. nourishingbiological.com 81.................. Rejuvi Laboratory.......................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 45.................. Rapidlash/Rocasuba....................................................................................................................rapidlash.com 9.................... Revitalash.................................................................................................................................... revitalash.com 73.................. Silcskin/Calvet Cosmetics LLC...................................................................................................... silcskin.com
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