LNE & Spa - July 2015

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals July 2015

$7.50

A Award-winning ward-winning organic skin care

with results.

Hormonal Acne?

Clear & Hormonally Balanced Skin.

Model’s skin treated using the Eight Greens Collection and a selection of Éminence Organic Skin Care products.

Eight Greens Collection EIGHT GREENS PHYTO MASQUE EIGHT GREENS YOUTH SERUM

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EIGHT GREENS PHYTO MASQUE – HOT

EIGHT GREENS WHIP MOISTURIZER

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EIGHT GREENS STARTER SET

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic ® skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.

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JULY 2015

V o lume 30

Numb e r 7

CONTENTS SKIN

ORGANIC & WELLNESS 10 16 22 30

Simplified Skin Care Busting Cosmetic Myths Choosing a Back Bar Line Skin News

Power Fungus 106 Allergy Relief 110 Organic & Wellness News 116

Allergy Relief

Choosing a Back Bar Line

page 110

page 22

SUNLESS TANNING GUIDE Here Comes the Sun! 32 Sunless Tanning Techniques 36 Bikini Beauties 42 Pre/Post Care Instructions 47 SUNLESS Shine the Light on Sunless Tanning 51 TANNING G U I D E Beach Ready! Photo Feature 56

Show Stopping Smackers! page 120

IMAGE Let’s Talk Makeup with Samantha Brooks Show Stopping Smackers!

Image News

The Caramel Glow Without the Harmful Effects of the Sun

118 120 128

Enhance Beach Bodies | Marketing Ideas | Retail | Upsell & More

Sunless Tanning Guide page 31

SPA

EXTRAS From the Editor 6 LNE & Spa Awards 62 Advertiser Index 130

70 76 84

Spa of the Month Cherub Keepers Spa News

BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Grant Bruce Analyze This!

Spa Business 101 Business News

88 90 96 104

Cover Courtesy of J. F. Verganti for Sothys

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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from the

editor

July is here, which means we are in the thick of sun kissed looks! We have compiled a complete guide to offer your clients that beautiful caramel glow without the harmful effects of the sun in our Sunless Tanning Guide, starting on page 31.

Learn how to bolster your safe, sunless tanning services to help your clients achieve that beautiful bronzed look without the danger and aging effects of the actual sun. This all-encompassing guide covers how to educate your clients on the risks and downsides of sun exposure, the different types of tanning services you can offer your clients, a tanning protocol to contour your clients’ physiques, pre/post care treatment instructions and promotional strategies to bring your tanning services into the limelight.

Get inspired this month by the annual Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Awards! Five spas that represent the best the industry has to offer in terms of quality, innovation and customer ser-

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vice are featured, starting on page 62.

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As always, you can stay ahead of the curve with inspiration from cutting-edge concepts highlighted throughout our latest edition. Dive into exciting features on children’s treatments, a massage protocol for allergy and sinus relief, the PRB principle in skin care and so much more in the July issue of Les

LED

Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa!

friendly products

JULY 2015

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com REV051515

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Confident Education • Equipment • Products BT will be with you every step of the way.

Join Us At the Face&Body San Jose Booth 518 to find out how...

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REV051215

bio-therapeutic.com LNEonline.com | | 800.971.6259 JULY 2015 | 7

3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, Florida 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com email: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@lneonline.com Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@lneonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@lneonline.com

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Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@lneonline.com

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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

AGE-FIGHTING

EYE ZONE TREATMENT! This next generation treatment targets eye fatigue, aging and puffiness. Dramatically reduces the look of fine lines, dryness, wrinkles, crow’s feet & puffiness.

Combines lymphatic drainage acupressure style cooling massage globes with cutting-edge ingredients for deep and thorough product penetration.

Universal add-on to any facial for instant results.

ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontr ibutors Samantha Brooks

Celeste Hilling

Louis Silberman

Diane Buccola

Vincent Kolb

David Suzuki

Rebecca Gadberry

Kelly Lott

Lindsay Turmelle

Nathalie Gouillou

Veronique Munro

Christiane Waldron

Hannah Hatcher

Kelly Richardson

Anna G. Wilhem

CALL BEFORE JUNE 30 AND RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY RETAIL

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

SET WITH YOUR PURCHASE OF PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT KIT.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977

JULY 2015

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www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com

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Restore Youth and Volume Consistently our best seller, Power Serum is a powerpacked combination of 8 volumizing and plumping peptides that offer results from the 1st application.

Power Serum also contains the 3 most advanced muscle relaxation peptides available. Limiting these contractions allow for greater repair and restoration.

A Healthy Preservative System 2 Probiotic peptides affect the health and appearance of the skin by improving skin clarity, combating dryness, and enhancing anti-aging all while preserving product effectiveness. .

Enhance Your Protocols Easily incorporate Power Serum into your current machine offerings to amplify results. Call now to receive protocols for microdermabrasion, waterdermabrasion, LED, laser, micro-needling, ultrasound, and microcurrent.

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Speak with a representative at 1.800.932.9873 to receive samples and our new white paper on Power Serum. HydroPeptide offers your clients the star treatment with immediate post-facial results and home care regimens that are as effective as they are luxurious.

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Christiane Waldron by

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SIMPLIFIED

SKIN

CARE The

PRB

skin care p r i nci p le A

s I get ready to leave my house every morning, I ask my 12-year-old twin daughters the same question: Did you put your sunscreen on today? Unfortunately, I get the same response from them every day: an annoyed look with a dramatic eye roll and a sigh.

Their arsenal consists of a moisturizer and a tinted cream with SPF 40. It takes about one minute to apply both. Despite how fast and easy it is, I go through the same exercise every day, which ends with me begging them to wear sunscreen, and reminding them that they will really thank me when they are in their 40s. Their answer is always the same: 40 is a long time from now!

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skin | simplified skin care This common feeling of invincibility lasts well beyond childhood and into one’s 20s and 30s, with devastating consequences to the skin and beauty. Estheticians often have the difficult task of educating their clients and offering skin care advice that’s customized to meet each individual’s needs.

The

At the same time, this advice needs to be somewhat easy to use and remember, so that the client can follow it day in and day out. Now more than ever, advice from an esthetician is needed to get the correct information amongst a sea of misinformation.

PRB Skin Care Principle

My philosophy on skin care is rather simple. I look at skin like I look at health. Staying active and eating healthy foods is the key to a healthy, long life. The same principle applies to the skin. The PRB skin care principle gives estheticians an easy tool to help clients understand the protocol needed to keep their skin healthy, because time during treatment is limited. The PRB principle simplifies skin care and caters to women of all ages and all skin needs.

What does

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PRB stand for?

PREVENT

REPLENISH

BLOCK

WATER LOSS

LOST NUTRIENTS

THE SUN

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skin | simplified skin care

Preventing

water loss Keeping the skin well moisturized is critical in preventing Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Water often travels from the epidermis into the outside layer of the skin and gets lost to the atmosphere. Water can be lost through excessive heat, cold or dry weather. Keeping the skin hydrated and protected from TEWL is critical in maintaining youth. This is especially important for mature women who are naturally dry due to diminished oil production from the sebaceous glands.

As an esthetician, it’s important to remind your client to prevent moisture loss and to recommend a good moisturizer. I’m a great believer in layering multiple products on the skin that contain various emollients and humectants that will keep the skin hydrated and well nourished. Carrying a good variety of moisturizers that cater to all skin types and recommending the right type of products that will hydrate without clogging pores and promoting breakouts is key to keeping the client’s skin well hydrated.

Replenishing

lost nutrients Using creams with a high concentration of nutrients is crucial to healthy skin.

Antioxidants are the ingredients the skin needs for nourishment. Sometimes I get asked what antioxidants are, and my best answer is “food for your skin.” Whether it’s vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid, green tea, ubiquinol or any other antioxidant out there, the skin needs its daily dose of these vitamins and supplements. Why? Because skin gets millions of attacks from free radicals every day, and antioxidants help protect the skin by fending off these unstable molecules.

Using creams that contain a high concentration of antioxidants will also replenish all nutrient losses that occur with aging. Antioxidants can play very specific roles in skin health, and it’s important to understand how they interface with the skin. Many companies load their products with powerful antioxidants and vitamins that protect the skin, so make sure you’re carrying high value products that promote skin health.

Also make sure the products you carry are well protected in airless bottles or dark tinted packaging. Selling a cream that will turn brown after being opened will not go over well with clients.

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skin | simplified skin care

Blocking or filtering the

sun

SAME PRINCIPLE, DIFFERENT MECHANISM OF ACTION

Sun protection is the same principle but a different mechanism of action as the previous concept. Preventing the sun from damaging the skin will prevent photoaging. Photoaging is, in my opinion, the number one cause of aging. Photoaging is responsible for a lot of skin issues that women are unhappy with, and sun filtering is the only solution to reduce the damage caused by UVA and UVB rays.

Sun filtering is an absolute must, and needs to start at an early age. Sun damage can lead to brown spots, sag-

This advice needs to be somewhat easy to use and remember, so that the client can follow it day in and day out.

Enter the

Step-by-Step Drawing!

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ging, fine lines, wrinkles and premature aging—years after the initial exposure.

There are two methods to reduce damage caused by the sun:

Sunblocks (often called mineral sunscreens). The most effective ones include a blend of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Sunscreens, made from various synthetic ingredients that act as filters, such as avobenzone and oxibenzone.

Both types of sun filtering options provide sun protection.

Most doctors recommend an SPF of 30 for the most effective sun protection. There are pros and cons to both types of products; it really depends on the need of each client and their skin type. I personally like to layer my moisturizer and anti-aging creams before applying a sun filter. As an esthetician, it’s important to learn the differences between these two approaches and cater to each client’s needs.

This month:

BODY CONTOURING Enter to win the $350 Giveaway and a $200 Infinity Sun dollars that can be applied to any Infinity Sun spray tanning system.

Carrying a variety of products in your spa that cater to the PRB skin care principle, will help strengthen your retail business. No single product can meet every skin need and suit all skin types, but providing a simple and easy to use skin care principle will make your clients eternally grateful, and keep them coming back for more advice and retail. n

Christiane Waldron is the founder and CEO of Jenetiqa, a professional luxury skin care company. Waldron formulates products that address all signs of age, and believes that early prevention and an excellent daily routine are the secrets to beautiful, healthy skin. For more information, visit jenetiqa.com or contact her at christiane.waldron@ jenetiqa.com.

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BUSTING COSMETIC MYTHS THE TRUTH BEHIND

W I D E S P R E A D

MISCONCEPTIONS

BY REBECCA GADBERRY

M

yths are rife in the world of cosmetics. This article aims to explain the truth behind some of the most common myths that have run rampant in our industry for generations of professionals and consumers alike. From chemical-free to filler ingredients, you’ll find explanations here for your clients’ most persistent sources of confusion (and your own) when it comes to understanding the content of skin care products.

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skin | cosmetic myths

MYTH 1 Chemical-free products are safer than those with chemicals.

The beauty industry’s term for cosmetic chemical is “ingredient.” Whether an ingredient name is long or short, it’s always a chemical. Maybe that’s why there are so many myths about the chemicals used in cosmetics: by using a different term to describe them, even those of us in the cosmetics industry don’t acknowledge that we use chemicals. Just as you have no choice breathing in and exhaling chemicals, there’s no choice between making a product with chemicals or making one that’s chemical-free. Chemicals are always used.

What is a chemical? Two or more atoms joined together.

That’s it. All substances are made of chemicals. Just being a chemical doesn’t make a substance good or bad, safe or unsafe, cancerous or toxic. Everything except light and electricity and the void in a vacuum is made of chemicals. Our world and everything in it, including the air we breathe, is made of chemicals. Wave your hand through the air. That

very slight resistance you feel is caused when your hand runs into chemicals known as oxygen, nitrogen, water vapor, argon and carbon dioxide.

The person who formulates the cosmetic is called a “cosmetic chemist” because they must know the structure, properties and reactions of the chemicals used to formulate cosmetics.

MYTH 2 If I can’t pronounce it, it must be dangerous.

Just because an ingredient has a long, unrecognizable or difficult to pronounce name doesn’t mean it’s dangerous. Glycyrrhetinic acid refers to a soothing phytochemical in licorice, and pseudopterosin is the key soothing compound in sea whip extract.

These words trip up even the most practiced tongue, but they’re definitely desirable for sensitive, inflamed, acneic skin or clients experiencing a flash of rosacea.

On the other hand, lead and arsenic are verboten in higher than parts-per-million (ppm) quantities in cosmetics. Even such well-known ingredients as glycolic and lactic acid can prove dangerous if used at too high a percentage or too low a pH. Part of the problem here is that some ingredients are listed on the package by their common names while ingredients that don’t have common names are listed by the systematic chemical name (SCN), used by chemists to identify the ingredient’s chemical structure. Since very few ingredients have common names, most of the names we see in a product’s ingredient list are SCNs; friendly to the chemists who formulate the product, not so friendly to those who aren’t keyed into the lingo.

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When one reads long, complicated names like aminoguanidine HCL (a strong anti-glycator), isohexadecane (skin softener) or dimethyl polysiloxane (skin softener and foam dampener), they think the cosmetic company is committing them to a slow death by anti-aging moisturizer. Here’s the takeaway: Don’t rely on the length of an ingredient’s name, familiarity or ease with which it slips from your tongue as the key tip-offs that an ingredient is safe or not. If you’re concerned about safety, ask the brand for their safety study reports for the ingredient of concern and for the entire product.

The Food and Drug Administration requires that cosmetics must be proven safe prior to being put on the market, so the brand should have them.

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skin | cosmetic myths

MYTH 3 Cosmetic companies dilute their products with water to make more money.

Have you ever made oatmeal with too little water, applied 100 percent glycolic acid to a client’s skin or tried to smear a Gummy Bear across your face? All three are examples of what happens when your product doesn’t have enough water in it for the task at hand. Creams, lotions, cleansers, body washes, mists and other non-solid cosmetics need water—if they have a water portion to their formula—to make them fluid enough to apply to the skin.

In addition, most cosmetic ingredients are delivered to the manufacturer in a concentrated form that must be diluted to be usable in the product and safe for the skin.

This not only adds to the product’s spreadable nature, it removes the possibility of irritation, as with 100 percent glycolic acid, a full strength cleansing agent or an emulsifier that’s so strong it can dissolve the lipids between barrier cells if used at too high of a percentage. Even performance ingredients like antioxidants, peptides, liposomes and plant

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extracts need to be diluted with water. When used at concentrations that are too high, these ingredients can have a reverse effect, advancing aging via inflammation, creating rather than quenching free radicals or drying skin out when a strong humectant can’t find enough water in the atmosphere to satisfy its appetite. Too much of certain ingredients, especially those described as “natural,” can also make a product look “yucky” (as in thick, lumpy, brown, yellow or orange substances of unknown origin).

skin | cosmetic myths

MYTH 4 Cheaper products use a lot of fillers This myth is supported by journalists and cosmetic “experts” to attack products they either don’t approve of or are selling against. The phrase “filler ingredient” seems to imply that a cosmetic company puts ingredients in a product that don’t perform a task. Every ingredient must pull its own weight or it’s out, simply because of cost. Even water costs something. So why would a cosmetic company include an ingredient that would lower its profits if the ingredients weren’t deemed necessary in some way? I’ve heard of a variety of ingredients labeled as “fillers,” from preservatives to emulsifiers to colorants and fragrance. But all of these ingredients are used to produce a safe, stable and aesthetically pleasing product. n

Rebecca Gadberry is the Senior Instructor and Program Director for UCLA Extension’s Cosmetic Sciences program. She is considered a distinguished authority in the U.S. skin care industry. Join Gadberry online at skincareingredientexperts.com and check out her Facebook community, Skin Care Ingredient Experts, an open platform where industry professionals can interact and share.

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Sold Exclusively Through Skincare Professionals

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C HO O SI NG A

BACK BAR LI NE

BY

DIANE BUCCOLA

T

he treatment room has always been where the magic happens, and Back Bar products are an integral part of that magic. The Back Bar is an element of skin care that’s exclusive to estheticians and is a valuable tool that is not available to competitors — department store clerks, multilevel-marketing salespeople, or the Internet.

When assessing professional skin care lines, keep in mind the important connection between Back Bar and retail products. The main objective of home care products is to extend the benefits of the facial. So when creating your Back Bar lineup, consider your retail options as well.

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skin | choosing a back bar line

TOP QUALIFIERS BACK BAR PRODUCTS As skin care professionals, we know that skin care is not “one-size-fits-all.”

A product line must be selected according to an esthetician’s experience and specialty, or a spa’s client base and service menu. Consider the following when evaluating a product line:

BUDGET. Back Bar products can be expensive, so you must decide carefully. Of course, we want high-quality ingredients for our clients, but that doesn’t mean they must be the most expensive.

So be prudent when assessing your Back Bar needs, and spend your money on products that’ll benefit your client the most.

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For example, cleansers are on the skin only briefly, so they don’t have a huge impact on the skin. Therefore, you can get by with one “milky” and one “soapy” cleanser for most facials. This leaves you with extra money to invest in serums and other products with active ingredients.

SPECIALTY PRODUCTS. There are many state-of-the-art delivery systems that estheticians can use to enhance the penetration of products.

Therefore, products that are customizable and cutting-edge help support the esthetician’s effort to keep his or her facial menu fresh and effective.

INGREDIENTS. To competently

PACKAGING. Back Bar products

evaluate a product, first review the ingredient deck, because even something as simple as vitamin C has more than one derivative.

To delve further into ingredients and best use of products, look for product knowledge training the manufacturer offers.

don’t have to be pretty, but they must be labeled well. Ideally, Back Bar products should also allow for easy dispensing during a facial. And for those who offer specialty treatments such as peels, it may be helpful to choose a line that includes travel size retail products that can be used as pre- and post-peel kits.

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skin | choosing a back bar line

EXPIRATION DATES. Although the FDA does not currently require expiration dates on cosmetics and skin care products, it’s helpful information to have. Long-term efficacy of skin care products depends on the stability and shelf life of ingredients. For Back Bar products, the expiration date may be shortened even further.

BACK BAR PRODUCTS DON’T HAVE TO BE PRETTY, BUT THEY MUST BE LABELED WELL. IDEALLY, BACK BAR PRODUCTS SHOULD ALSO ALLOW FOR EASY DISPENSING DURING A FACIAL. 26

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RETAIL PODUCTS Most professional skin care manufacturers offer a line of retail products to complement their Back Bar line. In some cases, the retail products are identical to the Back Bar products, with the exception of sizing and packaging. A skin care professional’s retail sales can be highly profitable, so it’s a good idea to take steps to protect that source of income.

While it’s a good idea to use a few Back Bar products in your facials that clients can purchase in retail size for home use, don’t overdo it. If all of your Back Bar products are available for use at home, it can somewhat neutralize the client’s perspective of your facial treatments as being a professionalonly specialty.

CUSTOMER SERVICE & SUPPORT While some brands end their support once their products hit our shelves, it’s preferable to partner with a company that continues to support us throughout our relationship with them, because it can have a positive influence on our revenue and ultimate success. Here are some valuable elements to look for, when researching a professional skin care line:

skin | choosing a back bar line

Science + Vision WEBSITE. It’s essential that the company has an easy-to-navigate website with a professional-only area that offers: Ability to place wholesale orders online Training videos and printable information Ingredient deck and instructions for use of each product Available opening order, re-order and shipping information

Scientifically advanced treatments for skin of all hues 1969, James E. Fulton, M.D., Ph.D., the brilliant researcher, cosmetic surgeon and dermatologist, co-developed Vitamin A acid later known as Retin A®, forever changing skin care. His formulations for Vivant deliver healthier, more radiant skin.

LOW-TO-NO MINIMUM ORDER REQUIREMENT.

SHIPPING. Shipping time can reIF ALL OF YOUR BACK BAR PRODUCTS ARE AVAILABLE FOR USE AT HOME, IT CAN SOMEWHAT NEUTRALIZE THE CLIENT’S PERSPECTIVE OF YOUR FACIAL TREATMENTS AS BEING A PROFESSIONALONLY SPECIALTY.

quire careful consideration: If there is no distributor in your area and the products will be shipped from out-of-state, delays and higher shipping fees could happen. Another possible impediment might be shipping restrictions imposed by the company. For example, solo estheticians that don’t have a receptionist available often prefer to have their products shipped to their home address for convenience and safety; but not all companies will oblige, and those who do may charge an additional fee.

Two Revolutionary Ingredients Vivant’s internationally recognized and patented Vitamin A Skin Conditioners are delivered deep into the skin’s surface to help stimulate new collagen production.

Vivant’s renowned formulation of Mandelic Acid 3-in-1 Serums treat problem skin without the irritation and post-hyperpigmentation of glycolics and benzoyl peroxides.

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Because Back Bar products typically come in larger volume, it could easily happen that one item runs out before we are ready (or can afford) to place another order. With the exception of a one-time opening order requirement, a high minimum re-order requirement forces us to order more products than we need or will use. This can be detrimental to smaller spas and solo estheticians that don’t maintain a large inventory.

www.VivantSkinCare.com 1-800-9-VIVANT Acne • Anti-aging Hyperpigmentation Intimate Bleaching

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skin | choosing a back bar line

ACCESSIBILITY. Purchasing products sight-unseen can be risky. For that reason, I prefer companies that exhibit at professional esthetics and spa trade shows so that I can interact with the products, meet the company representatives and get my questions answered on the spot. Ideally, your entire team should test the products to find out how they react to different skin types, conditions, etc. For that reason it is also a good idea to only consider companies that offer your spa samples to test before adopting the line.

COMPANY REPRESENTATIVE. If having a local rep is important to you, then it’s a good idea to determine in advance whether or not someone is regularly available in your area. Or, confirm that you’ll be able to easily reach a live person.

MARKETING. Brand awareness campaigns that target consumers help educate them about the retail line, and can be extremely beneficial to the spas that use and sell the products. Social media in particular is highly relevant in today’s age of marketing. Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, Yelp, Pinterest, etc. have created a new and exciting form of communication between consumers, licensed professionals and manufacturers.

As you browse through the comments on these companies’ social media sites, be aware not only of the comments and feedback but also the demographics of the clientele.

Also keep in mind that while it is important to review comments and feedback from consumers, be discriminating when you consider the sources of information offered.

Consumers and unlicensed professionals may offer feedback that is uninformed or irrelevant to your purposes. For example, a consumer complaint about breaking out in a rash does not serve as a valid reflection of the product, as they may have an allergy to an ingredient in the product or are taking a medicine that contraindicates with it. This consumer, of course, may not know any better.

REFERRAL.

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Consumers who are interested in facial services or a product line should be able to easily find a licensed skin care professional in their area. It’s helpful if the manufacturer’s website offers a list of licensed estheticians and spas that carry the product line, or at the very least, an invitation to contact the company for a referral. n

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Diane Buccola has been a licensed esthetician in California since 1998, and is the owner of SpaBizBoard.com, a popular message board and learning tool for the spa business. Buccola serves on the Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa Advisory Board and has authored two books: “Estheticians Are a Girl’s Best Friend” and “The Heart of Esthetics: Creating Loyal Clients and Achieving Financial Success.”

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REPLENISHES MINERALS Kerstin Florian introduces its Rehydrating Remineralizing Face Creme. The high content of mineral elements from thermal waters act as a mineral supplement with organic coconut oil for moisture, says the company. Key minerals and trace elements included in the creme, part of the Mineral Collection, include magnesium, potassium, sodium, and bromide.

888.537.7846 kerstinflorianusa.com

SLEEPING TIGHT Avery Graham introduces Trifecta, a nightly resurfacing serum that re-textures and revitalizes skin with retinol, glycolic and lactic acid, says the company. Trifecta releases microencapsulated retinol to gradually penetrate throughout the night and ensure continual cell rejuvenation.

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SkinNews

888.570.6777 averygraham.com

REDUCES SKIN LAXITY Somme Institute presents Skin Reset, a solution, the company says, most effective to counteract facial aging. Skin Reset tightens, smoothes, firms and thickens skin. Its core active ingredient is MDT5 (Molecular Dispersion Technology) a matrix of potent, stable and re-engineered vitamins encapsulated with peptides.

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AveForme Laboratories’ latest Stratum C is a calming toner that was developed for sensitive menopausal skin, says the company. The toner features aloe vera, papaya, cucumber, sage and orange flower. It also contains hyaluron to restore moisture and hydrate skin.

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SKIN SOFT

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SUNLESS TANNING G U I D E

The Caramel Glow Without the Harmful Effects of the Sun Enhance Beach Bodies | Marketing Ideas | Retail | Upsell & More

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here

comes the

SUN!

By Celeste Hilling

We are in the middle of summer, which is a prime time to talk with your clients about approaching tanning in a healthy way. We all know the obvious reasons to avoid the sun year round, however many people want to look like they’ve been at the beach, even if they’ve been stuck in the office.

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N

ew research from IBISWorld shows that the sunless tanning industry is on track to grow significantly over the next five years. Reasons cited for growth include improvements in the quality of products, more widespread awareness of the negative health impacts of UV light and stricter regulations on tanning salons.

The skin care and spa industry are positioned to be game-changers in the health of guests. We can embrace this role by providing life-saving education.

Here are a few points you can convey to your guests to help drive home the safe-tanning message:

- Skin cancer affects more people than breast, lung, prostate, and colon cancer combined each year. (www.skincancer.org) - About 3.5 million cases of basal and squamous cell skin cancer are diagnosed in the U.S. each year. Melanoma will account for more than 73,000 cases of skin cancer in 2015. (www.cancer.org) - The Food and Drug Administration invoked its most serious risk warning on tanning beds, lifting them from a category that included Band-Aids to that of potentially harmful medical devices.

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BIG PROFIT MARGINS In addition to the increasingly wellknown dangers of unprotected sun exposure and the already expanding growth in this market, impressive profit margins are another great reason you don’t want to miss out on the profitable market of sunless tanning.

Weez Hyman, owner of Desert Zen Day Spa in Bermuda Dunes, Calif., reports that she saw a 25 percent increase in revenue shortly after adding their tanning services, which includes custom airbrush spray tans. She charges $49 for a full body tan (or three sessions for $130), and $25 for legs only (or three sessions for $65).

The Day Spa Edina in Edina, Minn., offers two types of sunless tanning— airbrush spray tanning and hand-applied tanning, and finds that the profit margins are very good for both. “It all depends on how you pay your technicians. We pay them a combination of an hourly wage plus service commission. In breaking down these costs and subtracting out the cost of the products used in service and the time, our spa is able to keep approximately 60 percent of the revenue from each service.

The other 40 percent goes to product cost and technician wages. The spray tan is about 62 percent spa revenue, while the hands on application is about 59 percent,” says manager Denise Obermeyer.

Lindsay Chisholm, co-owner of Mirror Mirror in Burlington, Vt., also says that tanning is a “very profitable” service for her spa. “We charge $45 and it takes 15-20 minutes, versus a brow shaping that costs $22 and takes the same time. It does draw clients in for

special occasions such as weddings and proms, and we are slammed with spray tans in February and April when schools have break and everyone is going on vacation. Because we’re open seven days a week and have multiple people trained on performing the service, we can always accommodate people last minute.”

Glo Sun Spa is a Houston, Texas, chain that carries several brands of sunless tanning cabins that start at $20,000.

CEO Todd Earnhard explains that paying off the investment of a booth takes as little as a few months, a year at most.

He says that the booths are a popular tanning option among his clients.

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In addition to selling the tanning product in a lotion and mousse form, The Day Spa in Edina also sells applicator mitts to apply the lotion and the buffing mitts to perfect the look. “We give 10 percent off on the product if they buy it right after their service. It’s a big seller for us,” says Obermeyer.

So follow the sun, and boost your business while keeping your clients sun safe with sunless tanning services! n

BEYOND THE TREATMENT:

REWARDING RETAIL Most spray tan companies also sell athome versions of their products that can really boost your retail sales. While the tanning lotion itself is the best selling product for this client, moisturizers that help with after-care are also a hot ticket.

“On average, 75 percent of my retail sales come from tanning related products, lotions, moisturizers,

self tanners, and after care products,” says Hyman. “Clients want their tan to last as long as possible, so with the retail version of the bronzer, they can just keep re-applying on their own,” says Jamie Pettiette-Rhone, owner of Jamie’s Therapeutic Touch Day Spa in Palestine, Texas.

Celeste Hilling is the founder, CEO and product formulator for Skin Authority. She has two decades in the beauty and skin care industries. Hilling is a respected speaker and media resource on skin care, healthy lifestyles, self-esteem and business. For more information, visit skinauthority.com, Facebook at Skin Authority and Twitter @SkinAuthority and @MissSkin.

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SUNLESS

TANNING

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SUNKISSED GUIDE

TECHNIQUES

By Anna G. Wilhem

Your health conscious clients (and those fervently seeking to stop the aging clock) have come to understand the negative impact of sun exposure and how UV radiation damages skin cells — yet that yearning for a natural sun kissed glow is hard to get over.

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S

unless tanning services are the quick fix your clients (and countless other potential customers) are looking for to give them that beach look and caramel skin that is now associated with youth and health.

Ready to jump into the world of sunless tanning? We’re breaking down the three techniques — spray tanning, hand application and cabin — with the help of experts in the sunless tanning world, so all you have to do is pick one (or two or three) and run with it!

SPRAY TANNING There are two systems that fall within that category: the traditional airbrush and the turbine powered system known as High Volume, Low Pressure (HVLP).

“Not many people use airbrush systems anymore because there is more overspray and it takes longer,” says Julie Nostrand, co-owner of South Seas Skin Care. “An airbrush tanning system delivers a small amount of product and usually takes 15-20 minutes for a full body application, whereas a hand held spray tan system (HVLP) delivers more product and takes 4-5 minutes to complete. Even though people call it airbrush tanning, the proper term is spray tanning.”

With the reduced application time, the HVLP system allows for more clients to be sprayed, decreases technician fatigue, which can translate to increased profit. However those knowledgeable of the traditional airbrush system and those looking into strictly contouring may favor this technique to the HVLP..

Setting up Set up varies depending on the manufacturer but the following can be used as a guideline.

Airbrush • Attach the air hose to the compressor and the other end to the airbrush.

• Turn compressor on and make sure there’s no air leaking.

• Hold the airbrush as you would a pencil.

HVLP • Attach the cup to the gun, making sure there’s no leak.

• Connect the turbine host to the front of the turbine exhaust port.

• Attach the gun to the hose.

Equipment must be disassembled for proper cleaning and to prevent clogging. Our experts agree that running warm water through the system is all it takes to keep it clean.

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Application Our experts recommend starting off with the chest area, or the back. “To avoid overspray and cloudiness in the spray room, you should always make downward strokes,” says Kelly Richardson, owner and CEO of B. Bronze Sunless. “A light coat should be applied that is almost dry to the touch.”

Common mistakes Proper education and training, as well as practice, are key to delivering that flawless sun kissed look people crave. Properly guiding clients to the pre- and postcare is crucial too. Then there are those errors that one can avoid by following these simple tips.

“It is important to calibrate your gun properly, as well as spray in the opposite direction of the fan,” says Richardson. “Keep the tanning room cool. Do not blow dry the client or give them a blow dryer.”

Founder and CEO of Infinity Sun, Veronique Munro, insists on the common issue of over spraying hands and feet. “The hands and feet are more porous than other areas of the body so it takes less solution to achieve the same results.

Always lightly dust the tops of hands and feet,” she says. To which Nostrand adds, “common mistake is the tech sprays too far away, which will waste product and not be as accurate and create overspray. The closer you spray, the more accurate you will be.”

HAND APPLICATION Perhaps hand applied sunless tanning falls within a more “complete” spa service.

The session can last from 30 to 80 minutes and includes a full body exfoliation followed by massage like strokes to apply the tanning product, which many come to describe as a relaxing body treatment.

Application “In the event that your treatment includes exfoliation, have your client lay on their back and start with applying the exfoliant to the décolleté and then arms, stomach and legs, then have client lay on their stomach and apply the product to the tops of their shoulders and back, then legs,” says LaDonna Sheridan, di-

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rector of sales and marketing at Fake Bake. “Now it’s time to apply the self tanner. With the same techniques, apply a nickel to quarter size of product and start at the décolleté.”

Sheridan adds the following tip: apply face tanner to hands and feet. “It’s a more mellow dose and therefore more easily absorbed in dry areas,” she says.

Equipment In order to offer that service, all a provider needs is the tanning product, a treatment sponge to evenly apply the solution and an exfoliating scrub if included in the service.

Common mistakes Applying too much product, agree Sheridan and Richardson. “Less is more,” says Richardson, “you can always add more product to get a deeper glow, but once it is on, you cannot take it off.”

CABIN For those who’d rather place their trust into machines, there’s the option of investing in sunless tanning cabins.

Going for cabins was a no brainer for Todd Earnhart, CEO of Glo Sun Spa — which carries several brands of sunless tanning cabins — with various locations in Houston, Texas. “The size of the cosmetics industry is a multi-billion dollars industry, so sunless tanning was an easy choice once the technology presented itself,” Earnhart says, adding that he picked his cabins based on “performance, reliability and ease of use.”

The expense was worthwhile for Earnhart — each cabin can cost from $20,000 and up — who says that it

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took him only a few months for his investment to be repaid. “Usually just a few months for us, but we promote heavily,” he says. “The longest it has ever taken me to pay off a booth is maybe a year.”

While there is the occasional hiccup, “of course, it is a machine and on occasion they need repairs and maintenance, says Earnhart, he argues that the pros outweigh the cons: once you’ve invested in the cabin you do not need to pay a technician to apply the tanning; cabins offer more privacy to clients, and in his experience, a larger percentage of people use them. Although he says he sees no

real cons, he does mention that some cabin brands will only allow you to use their own solution — something that can be remedied with a bit of research.

TANNING ETIQUETTE The idea of disrobing for a sunless tanning session can be daunting; offer your clients to keep their undergarments on, and give them proper guidance at the time they schedule their first appointment.

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“As most people tan for an upcoming event or vacation, I always ask them to consider their tan lines, when choosing what to be spray tanned in,” says Richardson. “Most disposable underwear is made for waxing and does not give appropriate tan lines, should your client be getting ready for bikini weather. Many clients will have a specific pair of underwear that they tan in. Clients can wear a swimsuit, bra and underwear, or go naked.”

Richardson offers this additional tip: place a FAQ link on your website and direct first time tanning clients there.

LOCATION Keep in mind that spray tanning can be noisy! “The machine is very loud, so we have it farther away from our other treatment rooms,” says Lindsay Chisholm, co-owner of Mirror Mirror in Burlington, Vt. Solutions that contain instant color will also stain anything they touch — that includes floors, walls, etc. …

“Ensure that everything can be wiped down easily. Floors should be concrete,

SPRAY

Now you have it, the essentials to sunless tanning techniques. It’s time to glow! n

HAND APPLIED

Airbrush/HVLP

CABIN

Service av. time

20/5 mins

30-80 mins

5 mins

Service av. price

$35/$35

$80

$30

Equipment needed

airbrush or HVLP systems

sponge/mitt

cabin

Application

Start off with the chest or back. Make downward strokes.

Start with the décolleté, arms, stomach, legs. Have client flip over, then shoulders, back, legs.

cabin voice instruction

Common mistakes

Improper gun calibration, hot tanning room, blow-drying client, over-spraying extremities, spraying too far.

Applying too much, blow-drying client

n/a

(from technician)

tile or wood,” says Richardson. “Some salons have backdrops, some spray against the wall (this can be done with a clear solution), others use a tanning cabana (pop up tent).”

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Bikini

beauties THE ART OF BODY CONTOURING

By Kelly Richardson

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Pssst …

Want to know

a secret trick that only the best

master

spray

tanning

technicians possess? A technique regularly used on professional

dancers,

perform-

ers, and models that can also help YOUR clients look amazing when they hit the beach this summer? Here’s all the information you need to know about body contouring, the artistic touch technicians can use to enhance cleavage, abdominals, and leg muscles—it can even be done to give your clients’ derrières a slight lift!

Although not as technical as a regular spray or hand-applied tanning process, using an airbrush for body contouring is an art. Hence, it may take some practice and study before jumping in. A contouring session entails taking a few extra minutes after a full body spray tan is applied to enhance your client’s muscles with an airbrush system.

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PRICING

TECHNIQUE

This easy upgrade to a contouring service lasts approximately 15 minutes, with a cost ranging from $75-$150, depending on body parts worked on.

In addition to beach body services and entertainment professionals, this upgraded treatment can be marketed to clients seeking bronzing treatments in preparation for weddings, class reunions, and special dates.

Make light, tight, circular passes with regular tanning solution or bronzer, layering in the cut of the muscle. Start on the inside of the muscle, feathering the solution outward. The key is to darken and shade in these areas, layering on product to create semi-permanent shading. Each body part has a specific contouring technique:

TRAINING Another advantage to contouring is that training is fast, and can be accomplished with a onetime session lasting from two to four hours, priced at $200-$300. One should be certified in the basics of sunless tanning before obtaining certification in contouring, as it’s an advanced airbrush technique.

PRACTICE AND RESEARCH It’s important to take the time to build basic airbrushing skills before attempting contouring. Practice by drawing small circles and boxes on a piece of paper and shading them in using small, tight circular patterns.

Attempt to keep the color within the lines. Play with the pressure on the compressor and note how that changes your gun speed.

To prepare for a contouring session, study the muscles of the body; look at pictures to analyze major muscle systems and learn where the muscles start and end. If possible, practice your first sessions on an individual with plenty of visible muscles, such as a body builder or fitness competitor.

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CLEAVAGE: 1. Have your client wear a swimsuit top or bra that places their breasts in the desired lifted position.

2. Start by spraying in between the breasts with your airbrush and follow an outward curving pattern, slightly toward the top of the breast.

3. Follow a line that would be the desired lift, but ensure that it looks appropriate.

4. Heavier strokes will create a darker shadow in between the breasts, and a lighter shadow as they curve toward the top.

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ARM MUSCLES: 1. Have your client flex their biceps by raising their arms overhead and pulling their arms down into a flexed position.

2. Start your airbrush at the point closest to the armpit where the muscle begins, and continue to spray along the cut of the muscle toward the elbow.

3. Work on the shoulder muscles and collar area while the client is in this position.

4. Have the client turn around in the same flexed position, then contour along the shoulders and back.

LEG MUSCLES: 1. With the client facing forward, have them bend into a squat until their thigh muscles (quadriceps) show.

2. Contour the lines that run along the inner and outer thighs with your airbrush.

3. Have the client turn to the side and get into the same position, which allows you to contour the sides of the thigh muscles.

4. For the calf muscles, have client stand on their toes. Slightly airbrush the calf muscle lines. It’s best to have them stand on one foot at a time or hold onto something so they maintain their balance.

Photo by: Warriors.com

DERRIERE: 1. Have the client bend completely over at the waist, and contour in the lines underneath the fleshy part of their backside.

2. Create a shadow starting at the inner part and working the product out toward the hip.

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JAWLINE: 1. Have the client tilt their head back.

Start at the back of the jaw (toward the ear) and spray slightly underneath, tapering off as you come toward the front of the face.

ABDOMINALS:

In contouring, it’s important to remember that less is more. You can always add more product to create depth, but you cannot take it off. Also keep in mind that you can only work with what the client has. Results will depend on your client’s body type, so it’s important to talk to your client before the treatment to ensure they have realistic expectations.

Tell the client to let the tan develop just as they normally would. When they rinse off, those areas you worked on for contouring will be darker than the rest of their tan. If they need an immediate contoured look, add bronzing drops or color additive to your solution. n

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Kelly Richardson is the president of B.Bronz Sunless, which offers spray tanning and contouring classes throughout the world. B.Bronz Sunless is an official sponsor for the Miss America Organization and the Golden State Warriors Dance Team.

Photo by: Warriors.com

1. Have the client contract their abdominals and/or breathe in to expose the muscles.

2. Start with the center line that cuts through the belly button, keeping your spray heavier at the top and tapering off as you bring it down.

3. Layer product underneath each individual abdominal muscle. Layer the upper muscles heavier than the lower muscles.

4. In this position you can also shade along the sides of the abdominals to create more cuts and give the appearance of a slender torso. The sides are especially important if the client does not have significant abdominal muscles.

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Pre/Post Care Instructions for Sunless Tanning

By Lindsay Turmelle

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T

here is a saying in the sunless/airbrush tanning industry: “Your spray tan is only as good as your technician and the equipment they use to apply it.” This theory can be applied to the before and after care your clients practice as well! Many of us have learned which rules we can and can’t defy when it comes to sunless tanning. If you offer sunless tanning treatments on your service menu, it’s essential to provide your clients with proper instructions on pre and post-care to help them avoid making preventable mistakes that compromise their results.

In addition to posting these before and after care instructions on your website, verbal instructions should be given at the time the appointment is made, and post-care instructions should be explained upon check out. Also hand a printed copy of these guidelines to your tanning clients as they leave their session, to refer to for post-care and properly prepare for their next appointment.

PRESESSION Client Consultation: In addition to providing client care instructions described below, conduct a client consultation prior to the session, just as you would for any other treatment. The consultation for tanning entails asking the client how dark they want to go. If your client is new to tanning, go for a more natural option versus the darker tan. Jamie Pettiette-Rhone, owner of Jamie’s Therapeutic Touch Day Spa in Palestine, Texas, explains her consultation process for tanning sessions. “We have them fill out a spray tan consultation first and then see how dark they want to go,” she says. “We’ll do a test on their hand or face as well. For brides

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or anyone coming in for a big event, we suggest a trial run a week before and the actual application the day before, instead of the day of, the big event.”

DOs: • Shower using a mild soap with minimal fragrance and essential oils.

• Exfoliate with an abrasive hand mitt or loofah, using mild soap mentioned above (see rule number 1 under DON’Ts).

• Use exfoliants specifically designed for sunless tanning. Exfoliation preps the skin to its freshest layer, which prolongs the tan.

• Shaving the day of the tanning is ok, but waxing should be done 72 hours before, due to skin irritation.

• Scrub all rough parts of skin on the body for extra exfoliation (elbows, knees, ankles, wrists, and feet); this helps the tan develop evenly.

• Recommended but not mandatory: Remove face makeup thoroughly if applying sunless tanner to the face (sunless tanner will develop through face makeup).

• Dress with loose, dark clothing and footwear to sunless tanning appointment. If client does not want to tan in the nude, advise them to wear dark colored underwear. You may also provide disposable underwear for your clients.

DON’Ts: • Avoid using exfoliants containing oils, perfumes, granulated particles, or any extra additives that can cause a breakdown of the DHA in your sunless tanner.

• Don’t use shower gels containing heavy fragrance or essential oils.

• Consider warning your clients about sunless tanning during their menstrual cycle, as it can affect the pH of

the skin, which in turn, can cause skin to guard against any sunless tanning treatment applied.

• Use caution before and after your sunless tanning appointment when using specialized pigmentation cream on the face. These creams may contain bleach and cause a spotty after effect.

• Avoid applying lotion prior to sunless tanning application to ensure that sunless tanning products fully absorb into the skin’s surface.

SUNKISSED GUIDE

POST-CARE DOs DOs: • Avoid perspiration, and forego a bra if possible. Sweat makes sunless tanner under-develop in areas of the skin that are perspiring.

• Immediately wash the palms of hands, and avoid splashing any water on forearms. This could cause an uneven tone or streaky look on arms from the drops of water.

• Wipe the bottoms of feet with a damp cloth or baby wipe to eliminate any sunless tanner developing on the

bottom of the feet (overspray from electric spray booths or custom airbrush sessions settle on the ground, which is eventually stepped on by the client while their body is being maneuvered for even tanning patterns).

• If possible, sleep in the tan to allow it to fully develop. Always wait six to eight hours before showering after sunless tanning application.

• Moisturize skin one or two times daily with mild lotion free of alcohol and heavy fragrance. Moisturized skin pro-

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longs the tan and keeps it streak free.

Use a soft powder puff in the shower and avoid vigorous scrubbing, which could scrub away a fresh tan.

• A mild, fragrance free lotion can be applied evenly three to four hours after sunless application. Hands should be washed immediately afterward.

DON’Ts: • Avoid prolonged hot showers, baths, hot tubs and swimming pools.

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Chlorine can rapidly decrease the life of a sunless tanner while drying out the skin.

• Avoid a pedicure or manicure immediately after a sunless tanning application (remember: no water).

• Avoid getting hair done immediately after sunless application, as water splashed on the face or the nape of the neck can cause uneven results in noticeable places.

• Don’t be concerned if armpit area has a tint of green where deodorant is

placed; this is an oxidized area from the deodorant and will wash off after a shower.

• Don’t be alarmed by the color that is washing off during the first shower following treatment; this is normal, and is just the cosmetic bronzer in the solution. n Lindsay Turmelle is the owner and president of Tan in the Raw, a leading tanning product and accessories company.

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SHINE THE LIGHT ON

SUNLESS TANNING

By Veronique Munro

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A

s with any new product or service you bring into your business, the way you implement it determines whether or not it becomes a success.

Tanning services are no exception.

Sunless tanning is a multi-million dollar industry for good reason: people are concerned about the aging effects of the sun and risks of skin cancer, yet still prefer to have a healthy and radiant glow. Who doesn’t want to look as healthy, toned and attractive as possible? Tanned skin delivers on these things. For that reason, people are not only receptive to but actually seeking out safer, age-defying alternatives to the sun.

With advancements in technologies and high quality solutions, results are more natural, longer lasting and fade more evenly than before. Undesirable experiences of “yesterspray” are now replaced with quick-drying, odorless skin products enriched with nourishing ingredients. The only thing that stands between you and a happily tanned client is your staff’s ability to communicate these advances. Therefore, the education of your staff and the public must be tackled internally and externally.

INTERNALLY (IN THE SPA) Spread employee enthusiasm When you purchase your spray tanning system, the most important thing you can do is communicate your excitement to your employees! It’s essential to inform and educate all staff—from

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the receptionist to the esthetician—so that they may pass the knowledge on to those who will be experiencing the service. Encourage your employees to wear the tan. It will prompt your clients to ask about it.

says Lindsay Chisholm, Co-owner of Mirror Mirror in Burlington, Vermont.

“That way if someone has an upcoming event or wedding, they always keep the punch card in mind and it eases the cost and builds customer loyalty.”

Selling to clients in-house

Rack cards

Try sampling: Offering clients a complimentary face spray so they can see how the color looks on them is always a hit. When the clients see how natural and dewy the skin looks after a “radiant spritz,” they will most likely be in a hurry to get the rest of the body done on the spot! It’s an almost surefire way to book an appointment.

The menu Keep a menu of services at the reception desk. Create package deals, including all the different options such as anti-aging and body shimmering treatments that show cost savings and value added results. Tanning clients typically expect to pay for sessions in packages of three to 10, or even in the form of a monthly fee. For instance, The Day Spa Edina in Edina, Minn., offers a deal where clients can buy five sessions and get one free, with $10 off for first time tanners, and 20 percent off promotions in spring. The buy five, get one free offer is working for Jamie’s Therapeutic Touch Day Spa in Palestine, Texas, as well.

A smart way to keep track of packages is through a punch card. “We offer punch cards that offer deals to buy five spray tans and get one free,”

It is a good idea to keep rack cards on hand and distribute to your clients.

They are informative and help educate clients on what to expect before, during and after their treatment.

Floor space Keep posters visible on the wall in the reception area as well as in the spray tanning room. These can be “before and after” posters or beautifully branded posters by your sunless company.

Hang a flat screen TV in the waiting area, showing a sizzle reel demonstrating the service, which always has beautiful, desire-creating content. This will prompt your clients to ask about the service.

Cleanliness, safety and optimal setup Mist removal is critical, so invest in a backdrop with extraction fans. This will reduce the amount of overspray being inhaled by your technician and customers, as well as residue on the walls and floors. Always keep the spray tanning room clean and display products on shelves or a table for clients to touch and feel. Studies show that this increases the likelihood that they will buy.

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EXTERNALLY (TO THE PUBLIC) Identify a purpose and create a promo There are a number of events, seasons and reasons why people tan, and they don’t have to be anywhere near Hollywood to do it! All over the world, there are weddings, beauty pageants, body builder competitions, proms, Christmas parties and Halloween (for many in the industry, Halloween is actually the busiest tanning day of the year).

Special occasion When it comes to weddings, nobody wants pale-skinned photos! Offer a bridal package for the bride-to-be and her bridesmaids. Natural, even and consistent color in a wedding photo is the hallmark of any wedding planner’s ability to coordinate a successful day.

So contact your local wedding planners and bridal shops for great business building partnerships to support your bridal promotions.

Social media Most spray tanning companies offer images that can be used on your website, social media and email blasts to promote their brand. By using fresh content from your sunless company and daily updates on their Facebook, Twitter and Instagram accounts, you can attract new business with very little cost and effort just by sharing their messages.

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Jamie’s Therapeutic Touch Day Spa has successfully generated awareness for their promotions through Facebook.

“We have 7,000 Facebook followers so we use that a lot,” says owner PettietteRhone. “We’ll also do a ‘like us’ for a special discount around prom and bridal season. Or, check into Facebook for free gifts or bring a friend and mention Facebook when booking to get a free upgrade like salt scrub.”

Public interaction Additionally, you can create your own content to share and get the message out! Go to a local gym and offer to spray tan in front of people for free on a Saturday. Take lots of pictures and videos showing before and after results, and ask onlookers to tweet/Instagram/ Facebook it!

Spray tanning is a very lucrative business. When done correctly, it can generate over $100,000 in additional revenue per year in a room as small as 4’ x 5’ x 8’! By getting your employees to buy in, letting people know you offer the service and ensuring they have a great experience, you will not only create a loyal customer base, you will grow your entire business! n

Veronique Munro is the founder and CEO of Infinity Sun. Known for being a “Celebrity Spray Tanner” for many of Hollywood’s stars, she actively consults on sunless tanning for numerous magazines and television shows.

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COOLA SUNCARE

MATIS-PARIS

Mineral Sunscreen coolasuncare.com

Réponse Soleil Self-Tanning Spray myrdm.com

Shields and nourishes skin, leaving it with a light unscented tint

A fresh, non-greasy spray that absorbs quickly and provides instant color

KERSTIN FLORIAN Sunless Tan kerstinflorian.com

A moisturizing formula enriched with sweet almond oil and shea butter

Softens and protects skin with an antioxidant-rich non-clogging moisturizer

ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Cocoa Latte Tinted Moisturizer eminenceorganics.com

Gradually adds an even summer glow with a soft and light formula

GUINOT Crème Hydra Bronze guinotusa.com 56

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Top of the line products and tools to help your clients in their quest for the perfect silhouette in between treatments.

SOTHYS Self Tanning Gel Face and Body sothys-usa.com

An iridescent gel, slightly tinted to faciliate application and even spreading

A hydrating cream packed with aloe vera that delivers a radiant glow

Combines exfoliating and tanning agents for rapid absorption without streaking

THALGO Self Tanning Cream thalgousa.com

SKIN AUTHORITY Sunless Tanner skinauthority.com

A brush with quick drying technology bristles to apply for all kinds of products

SPRAY DI SOLÉ Instant glow gratification that develops into a honey dipped tan

Kabuki Body Beauty Brush spraydisole.com

KARORA COSMETICS Tinted Self Tan Mist karoracosmetics.com

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DEVITA Absolutely Bronzed devita.net Gives a soft sun-kissed look while infusing skin with aloe vera and hyaluronic acid

NORVELL PROFESSIONAL Venetian Sunless Mousse norwellsunless.com A combination of violet and brown tone bronzer to mimic sun-kissed tones

SOUTH SEAS SKIN CARE Island Glow Body Bronzer southseasskincare.com Provides an instant exotic, shimmery glow that dries immediately

Gentle melting, tanning and rapidly absorbed fluid

BIODROGA Spa Deluxe Body Tinting Fluid biokosmetikoftexas.com All in one makeup, moisturizer and glow!

GLEAM BY MELANIE MILLS Body Radiance gleambymelaniemills.com

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TAN TOWEL Self-Tan Towelette abeautylink.com

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Exfoliates, tans and moisturizes all in one!

Skin Perfection Bronzing Powder lcnprofessional.com

A lightly shimmering powder that can be used as a bronzer, face powder and eye shadow

A rich crème that creates a natural, sunless tan with a golden shimmer

IMAGE SKINCARE Body Spa Face and Body Bronzer imageskincare.com

Lightweight formula that smoothes, protects and firms while leaving skin glowing

KATE SOMERVILLE Body Glow Sunscreen katesomerville.com Promotes a golden glow and hydrates parched skin Tinted anti-aging mineral broad spectrum sun protection

NATURE PURE LABS

ELEMENTAL HERBOLOGY Sun Kiss Self-Tanning Body Moisturizer elementalherbology.com

Skin Glow Mineral Moisturescreen SPF 50 naturepure.com

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LNEONLINE.COM Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 60

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OUR INDUSTRY’S FINEST THE ANNUAL LNE & SPA AWARD HONORS THE BEST SPAS IN OUR INDUSTRY FOR THE FIFTH YEAR IN A ROW! THIS DISTINCTION WAS CREATED TO RECOGNIZE SPAS THAT EXEMPLIFY TRUE EXCELLENCE.

By Amanda Clinton Winter

T

he LNE & Spa AWARD is going on its fifth year! Launched in 2011, the LNE & Spa AWARD recognizes the commitment, hard work and accomplishments of spas in the United States and commends one international spa. Each year, spas get nominated in five categories: Luxury Spa, Day Spa, Wellness Spa, Medical Spa and International Spa. Selected for their superior care, exemplary services and impeccable standards, these spas em-

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body our industry’s ingenuity, dedication and love.

As part of the comprehensive judging process, mystery clients visited all shortlisted locations (save the international nominees), and provided extensive reports to the LNE & Spa Committee.

Our most sincere congratulations to the winners of the 2015 Awards!

Opened: 2010 Size: 25,000 Square feet Facilities: 21 treatment rooms, including four exterior cabanas, six terraces, five decks, four cold showers, two cold baths, two Finnish saunas, two whirlpool baths, one steam room, one garden.

Spa Director/Owner: Genevieve Emond Staff: 52 Products used/retailed: Babor and Éminence Organic Skin Care

Noteworthy treatment:

INTERNATIONAL SPA WINNER BOTA BOTA, MONTREAL, CANADA Anchored in the old port of Montreal, Bota Bota, spa-sur-l’eau (spa on the water) offers its “passengers” the healing benefits of a spa, as the natural movements of the St. Lawrence River lull them. With its enchanting ambiance and old Montreal as a backdrop, this innovative floating spa brings those that come aboard the privileged access to the river with the relaxing and energizing properties of the water circuit and treatments.

Nordics Baths, the Water Circuit.

“Passengers” enjoy the full benefits of thermal therapy, starting on the Promenade Deck or the Sunshine Deck for a 15-minute session in the dry sauna. Next step: A courageous dip in one of the cold baths or under the cold shower to get their heart pumping and close their pores. Finally let them stretch out in one of the many relaxation areas, enjoy the views from one of the whirlpools, or curl up in a chair on the Middle Deck while their heart rate returns to normal.

botabota.ca

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LUXURY SPA WINNER

LIFE IN BALANCE SPA, MIRAVAL RESORT IN TUCSON, ARIZ. Inspired by the natural splendor of the Sonoran desert, the Life in Balance Spa focuses on sustainability and embraces the mantra, “life enhancing minimalism.”

With its connection to the earth, and its seamless blend of indoor and outdoor relaxation spaces, this unique spa retreat presents a luxurious experience where guests can find innovative and life-enhancing treatments.

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Opened: 2012 Size: 16,000 square feet Facilities: 31 treatment rooms, 13 massage service rooms, one Thai massage room, five facial rooms, four wet rooms, one VIP suite, one Naga Thai studio, one aqua Zen pool, one full salon, three pedicure stations, two manicure stations.

Spa Director: Grant Bruce Staff: 100+ Products used/retailed: Clarins, Red Flower, Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, Deborah Lippmann, EmerginC, La Bella Donna, Clarisonic, Moroccan Oil Noteworthy treatment: Samadi Healing Ceremony, a Miraval exclusive. A blend of relaxation-inducing methods designed by Dr. Tim Frank — a licensed naturopathic physician — that brings deep peace to the body and state of mind. Frank combines Native American Shamanic drumming with acupuncture, Reiki and reflexology in this transformational healing ceremony.

The element of sound, including melodic chants, further calms the body and allows for reflection. miravalresorts.com

DAY SPA WINNER

SPASOCIAL, ROUND ROCK, TEXAS Born from the creative mind of entrepreneur Amanda Lyles, this down to earth, no-nonsense spa was conceived with the idea of “social spa-ing,” a spot that brings the motto, “spa with friends,” where guests can receive an array of spa treatments in a happy social environment.

Opened: 2013 Size: 12,000 square feet Facilities: 10 private suites, one hydro room, one indoor pool, Jacuzzi, steam room and sauna Spa Director: Amanda Lyles Staff: 18

Products used and retailed: Veritas Skin Care, Hard Night Good Morning Natural Skin Care, Salve, SpaSocial’s own signature lines, SpaSocial Makeup and SpaSocial Bath Salt

Noteworthy treatment: Wine O’Clock. Perfect for ladies’ night out, corporate groups, team building events, bridal parties, wedding day services … this treatment is meant to be shared in a group to socialize with some nonalcoholic beverages. Guests get to enjoy a chair facial, mani and pedi.

thespasocial.com

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WELLNESS SPA WINNER

SPA TOWN, THE RESORT AT PAWS UP, GREENOUGH, MT. Discreetly nestled on the edge of a meadow, in the waving shade of soaring pines, sits Spa Town — a colony of pristine white tents stitched together by a wooden boardwalk, just past an authentic babbling brook and towering pines.

Featuring full baths and showers, or a lovely sink and heated massage table, the tents offer a mesmerizing view that allows for complete relaxation as the sound of nature, the chirping of birds, and the rustle of the wind, lull guests.

Opened: 2006 Size: 4,000 square feet Facilities: Six treatment tents, outdoor waterfall showers, men and women’s locker areas in tents, one fitness center, and an Outdoor Agility course (the Grizzly Man Trail) Spa Director: Laura Russell-Nygard Staff: 10

Products used and retailed: Osmia Organics, Plantogen, Erbaviva, Organic Bath Co., Biotone, Skinny Dip candles, LUSH, Fake Bake, Bubalina, Dreamtime, Episcencial, Balanced Guru

Noteworthy treatment: Montana Gold Rush, Gold Flake Oil Massage. This massage uses 24-karat gold flakes blended with organic oil to enhance skin elasticity and indulge guests in luxury. The gold and oil combined help rejuvenate and revitalize skin, making it firmer, more resilient and youthful. This massage leaves skin glowing. A scalp treatment is included.

pawsup.com

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Opened: 2012 Size: 3,200 square feet Facilities: Seven treatment rooms and one education room Spa Director: Dr. Arleen Lamba Staff: 10 Products used/retailed: Blush’s own signature line, Blush Blends

Noteworthy treatment:

MEDICAL SPA WINNER

BLUSH MED SKINCARE, BETHESDA, MD. The brainchild of Dr. Arleen Lamba, Blush Med Skincare is a concept that was created around a very simple idea: a health club for client’s skin for a reasonable monthly fee. With her “Triple A” mission — accessible, approachable and affordable skin healthcare — Lamba provides economical, professional medical skin care, and various membership options based on clients’ areas of concern.

At Blush, the belief is that just like good nutrition for the body, beautiful skin requires routine procedures and maintenance.

Micro-Peel. This is Blush Med’s “it” treatment. The two-part skin resurfacing treatment leaves skin smooth, bright, and glowing. It starts with a microdermabrasion to polish and exfoliate the outer layer, which eliminates dead cells and stimulates circulation on skin’s surface. A peel is then applied, and the treatment is completed with a collagen infused and brightening face mask.

blushmed.com

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TROPICAL BREEZE

SPA OF THE

MONTH WILLOW STREAM SPA MAUI AT THE FAIRMONT KEA LANI, MAUI, HAWAII

BY

NATHALIE GOUILLOU

I

magine the deep sound of a conch shell reverberating, as the ocean waves gently come crashing on the sand. The waters are crystal clear, revealing myriads of tiny fish seemingly following a well-choreographed dance by the shore. The sun is scorching hot, yet a fresh breeze traveling from the lush forests and mountains comes whisking by, bringing along the jasmine, citrus and fruity scents of the colorful native blossoms.

It’s a tropical paradise, which scenery and name alone instill relaxation—Hawaii.

“Whether a visitor or kama’aina [resident], the beauty of the Hawaiian islands inspires the heart and mind,” says a Hawaiian adage.

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spa | spa of the month

EXCLUSIVE SCENE And it’s banking on its privileged location and the booming demand for wellness destination that The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui, Hawaii, made the plunge, revamped its spa — an $8 million renovation — and debuted Willow Stream Spa Maui in early 2014. The upgrade earned the spa the coveted Hawaii’s Top Spa by Travel + Leisure Magazine.

“Willow Stream Spa Maui guides guests on an energy journey, either to recover from the stress of the day, or to foster a healthy lifestyle forever,” says Livia Reddington, spa director at Willow Stream Spa Maui.

Willow Stream Spa Maui places great emphasis to encourage guests to revisit.

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Nestled in the lush green flora at the edge of the seashore, facing the vast ocean yet with a unique view to the steep mountains, this destination resort features luxe suites and villas, the award winning Ko restaurant, dreamy gardens and terraces, as well as the 9,000 square foot spa.

“When nature joins forces with human touch in a luxurious and lighthearted atmosphere, energy expands,” says Reddington. “The connection to nature reminds us to maintain personal harmony, an internal balance of mind and body.”

LUXE OFFERS Willow Stream Spa Maui offers classic and Hawaiian inspired treatments that draw from ancient beliefs and traditions, and relies on the use of lo-

cal herbs and plants. Its four signature treatment rooms feature a private foyer, state of the art wave table, Vichy shower, and couples suite.

Locker rooms and lounges are equipped with rain showers and steam rooms. If the wahine’s (women) locker room includes a mud bar and heated stone mud bench and foot bed; the kane (men) can relax with a flat screen TV and heated lounge chairs.

MARKETING While the majority of spa guests (90 percent) are also patrons of the Fairmont resort, Willow Stream Spa Maui — which clientele is 60 percent female and 40 percent male — also attracts locals who come in for a luxurious day at the spa and indulge in the Hawaiian signature treatments.

spa | spa of the month

Willow Stream Spa Maui places great emphasis on encouraging guests to revisit. “Spa marketing is present throughout the hotel — collateral in the guest room, promotional feature space on the activity newsletters, digital elevator images, retail display cases in high traffic areas throughout the resort are dedicated to spa products,” Reddington says.

On social media, guests are encouraged to share their stories; Fairmont even created a site, Everyone’s an Original, just for that purpose.

EVENTS Special events held seasonally that include product demonstration and consultation focused on skin health with vendors, are yet other means to attract

clients and treat them. “For the upcoming holiday season we are partnering with one of our apparel companies to offer our guests an exclusive shopping experience,” says Reddington. “Event planning typically starts 4-6 months in advance to secure the dates for the vendor representative, event space and the design, printing of marketing collateral and PR promotion.”

LOCAL FOCUS Partnering with local vendors also plays an important part for Willow Stream Spa Maui in order to offer true authentic Hawaiian experiences to their guests. “We partner with local vendors at every opportunity that aligns with our business model,” says Reddington.

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Not only was a local family-owned company consulted along with the resort’s cultural coach to select just the right local and organic ingredients, but the spa boutique also offers guests a selection of bath, beauty, perfume and jewelry from local vendors.

TRAINING With a strong emphasis on creating memorable experiences, Willow Stream Spa Maui places great importance on training for its 47 employees. Training is conducted with product vendors twice a year, where service providers learn about new treatments and techniques.

Product knowledge training take place each month via conference calls, webinars and meetings as well.

“We also have a team of certified trainers for all positions within the Willow Stream Spa, who facilitate training year round for new colleagues, on-going treatment training and focus on the execution of standards,” Reddington says.

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Although the bulk of the spa’s revenue rests with massages (75 percent of its total composition), retail, which accounts for 13 percent, is still an important feature of the spa, and employees are motivated to sell through monthly sales incentives and goals that they set for themselves during their annual review.

SERVICES With 13 indoor treatment rooms, three outdoor spa cabanas, and a nail salon, guests can indulge in an array of services, including the spa’s signature treatment — Huaka’i kupono Hawai’i (Natural Hawaiian Journey).

“To stay healthy, native Hawaiians used an abundance of rich flora, fruits, earth deposits and waters,” says Reddington, “all of which are still used in their pure form today to maintain health and balance.”

During the signature Natural Hawaiian Journey, skin is cleansed with an invigorating ‘alaea Hawaiian salt

scrub. A clay body mask, containing an assortment of local herbs and pure essential oils of bergamot, lemongrass and vanilla, is applied, setting the tone for relaxation. After wrapping the guest with ti leaves (grown at the resort), the therapist drizzles pure ginger on their scalp. A face massage with pure kukui nut oil is next, followed by a warm rain shower. Finally, a rich infusion of Maui vanilla bean and coconut body butter is applied, leaving the guest glowing and renewed (120 minutes, $395).

The Lomilomi massage is a Hawaiian healing tradition that symbolizes transformation by helping to let go of old patterns. Through long rhythmic strokes, this massage disperses muscle tension and enhances circulation, all while releasing blockages (60/90 minutes, $175/$255).

The Custom Cleanse facial is tailored to the needs of the guest, offering a deep cleansing that transforms skin, firms, hydrates, refines and tones.

It features skin-renewing antioxidant formulas, marine proteins, a contouring and lifting massage technique, a

hydrating mask, and concludes with a personalized home care consultation (60 minutes, $165).

Men get to choose from several services just for them, among others the Gentlemen’s Facial, a deep cleansing and revitalizing facial designed specifically for men’s skin special needs, including exfoliation and razor burn relief. To complete the traditional bar-

ber experience, a face, neck and shoulder massage is performed, without the shave (60 minutes, $165).

And within the salon’s services, one can indulge in the Willow Stream Reviving Manicure, which include a hand soak, a myyrh oil nail application, hand exfoliation, and a hand and arm massage with body butter (45 minutes, $65). It’s the true island experience

that puts the aaaaah in spa. Willow Stream Spa Maui invites guests to slow down and get reinvigorated with the nature that surrounds them. “It is the natural energy of Willow Stream Maui,” says Reddington, “that is infused into each experience.” n

WILLOW STREAM SPA MAUI A T T H E FAIRMONT KEA LANI 4100 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, Maui, Hawaii, 96753

LAUNCHED: January 2014 OWNER: Fairmont Hotels & Resorts WEBSITE: fairmont.com/kea-lani-maui

FACILITY - 13 indoor treatment rooms - Four treatment rooms, Hui Suites (four treatment rooms with private foyer), Nalu Suite (with wave table), Wailele Suite (with Vichy shower), Aloha Couples Suite - Three outdoor cabanas: oceanside, garden, poolside - Nail salon: four mani/pedi stations, one makeup station - Wahine (women) locker room: steam room, rain showers, mud bar and heated stone mud bench and foot bed - Kane (men) locker room: steam room, rain showers, sauna, heated lounge chairs, flat screen TV

SIGNATURE TREATMENT Huaka’i kupono Hawai’i (Natural Hawaiian Journey)

PRODUCT LINES USED AND RETAILED Kerstin Florian, NuFace, Clarisonic, Ala Lani, Jane Iredale, OPI, SuperGoop!, Oils of Aloha, Maui Vera, Supracor, loungewear from Crane and Lion, and Back Label, handcrafted jewelry by Pashey Bella and Adelina a Mare, Oneself Hawaiian Flower Lei, Paddywax Candles

REVENUE COMPOSITION - 75 percent massage - 12 percent skin care - 5 percent body care

- 13 percent retail - 8 percent nails

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Cherub KEEPERS Clientele of Tomorrow: Spa Treatments for Children

by Nathalie Gouillou

S

he must have been barely 50 inches tall, and chances were, she’d still cuddle with her teddy bear at night to fall asleep.

There’s no saying what the little girl would become when she grows up, yet one can say with confidence that she’d be a spa aficionado, the type of regular client you’d want to have come to you.

That’s the story that transpires from Maggy Dunphy’s experience — Dunphy is the spa director at Stowe Mountain Lodge, Stowe, Vt., and the mastermind behind their KidSpa services. “[The] little girl that was alone with me in a Chillax Session [a customized relaxing session] …” says Dunphy. “Halfway through she said that she wishes she could feel the way she felt that very moment — everyday.”

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New trend If going to the spa was once a treat for mom to get away from home and the children, today parents everywhere understand the stress that daily life inflicts on their little ones, and spas have come to realize and embrace their role as caretakers of the leaders of tomorrow.

“My 14-year-old niece came to live with me and I watched her little self trying to deal with the stress of school, athletics, homework, life,” says Dunphy on the inspiration behind KidSpa at Stowe Mountain Lodge. “I began researching stress and kids. We are also a family friendly hotel and I saw the need to offer services for our little people. The research that I did made it a no brainer.”

Early start For some it’s a mission taken to heart to forge children’s minds and instill good habits. “The keiki [children] are our future,” says Sharon Ogawa, spa director of Spa Grande at Grand Wailea, Wailea, Hawaii. “It is important to teach them at a young age the habits to care for themselves, so they develop a philosophy of self care that will create a greater quality of life for them later in their journey.”

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For others, it’s about the connection it creates within their family. “It is a fun way for parents to spend time with their children,” says Vivian Henein, spa director at the Beverly Wilshire, Beverly Hills, Calif. Vanessa Infante, spa director at One&Only Pamilla, Los Cabos, Mexico, agrees. “A spa experience is great when they live it together with their parents,” says Infante. “It creates a bond between parent and child.”

If caring for children’s well-being and contributing to positive relationships among families are worthy causes, the early start that these little clients get will turn them into reliable, knowledgeable, and lasting clientele.

Baby steps To have some reservations about welcoming little ones at your spa is a natural reaction, yet experienced spa directors have relied on a variety of “tricks” to make sure that the peace, quiet and relaxation associated with spa go unperturbed.

For some it’s a matter of trust, trust in the adult who accompanies the child, and making some spaces “kid free.” At Stowe Mountain Lodge, children are not allowed in locker rooms and wet areas, Dunphy says, adding, “when the children are in the main areas of the spa, they must be accompanied by an adult.”

Limiting children to a specific area or to room service only is yet another way to go. “Kids’ spa services are performed either in the beauty salon or in the privacy of your own suite,” says Infante.

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Tic toc When it comes to kid-friendly services, time is of the essence.

It’s about accommodating to little clients’ fidgeting by reducing treatment times without cutting the pampering short.

At the Stowe Mountain Lodge kids’ services are offered in increments of 25 minutes. “This allows for enough time for the child to relax and de-stress and for the provider to perform a great service,” says Dunphy.

Infante agrees, yet at One&Only Palmilla, services run 5 to 10 minutes longer than at the Stowe Mountain. “In the case of the mani, pedi and facial services, we try to offer short treatments because we understand that oftentimes, it is difficult for kids to sit still and relax extended periods of time,” Infante says.

And at the Beverly Wilshire, kids’ treatments are between 20 to 30 minutes only, says Henein.

Get the staff on board Whether you want your whole staff to treat children or only some of your providers, there’s no question that strict rules and protocols must be created and followed.

“We do age specific training with our staff, and we constantly communicate any relevant issues or special needs between staff members,” says Joanna Honaker, assistant director of Spa at The Greenbrier Resort and Spa, White Sulphur Springs, W. Va.

The early start that these little clients get will turn them into reliable, knowledgeable, and lasting clientele.

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M

spa | cherub keepers Y

CM

MY

CY CMY

K

Skin has many faces® Competent in skin care and problem solving “For the keiki [children] we educate [staff] about the nervous systems and attention span of the younger guests, so they are prepared to maximize the experience for the keiki, and ensure they do not get bored or over-stimulated,” says Ogawa.

Strict gender rules are also common in some spas, where in some cases only female providers, or same genders are allowed to work with children.

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This dermatologically conceptualised skincare series makes it possible to offer special treatment concepts for every skin type in the salon booth, alongside effective skincare products for use at home.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #166 on reader service card

Once you’re set with the kid services you wish to offer, have come up with fun and creative names, picked just the right products — fruity and sweet scents, organics, allergen free — and treats to satisfy their voracious appetites (many spas offer healthy snacks such as fruits, water and even tisanes), it’s time to get the word out.

It’s a combination of word of mouth, the trained staff that will inform clients, and the typical tools that come with sound marketing techniques: website promotions, social media, in spa signage, brochures and more.

Then there’s the opportunity to offer special events such as Grand Wailea’s periodic Diva’s Night Out. “An after hours terme (bath) experience where keiki six and up can come and enjoy chocolate baths, truffles, and mini face and body masks to self apply. This brings local keiki in consistently,” says Ogawa.

Unlike teen clients who might do their research and make the request to their parents for some spa time, little guests make their way through your doors by the will of their parents, who are ultimately the ones who must be seduced with the idea of taking the little ones to the spa.

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Caution Before launching in the kid spa business, talk to your insurance provider to find out what your policy does and doesn’t cover. According to Allied Beauty Experts (ABE), invasive procedures such as waxing, chemical peels, laser treatments or microdermabrasion are excluded from any policies for children under 14, “regardless of whether a parent or guardian release is obtained.”

Kid treatments Parent-child packages: Spa Grande at Grand Wailea, Wailea, Hawaii, offers the Malama Ka ‘Ohana for two adults and two children. The family enjoys side by side massages in the same spa suite.

Adults are treated to a Hawaiian lomilomi, while children enjoy chocolate coconut massages (50 minutes, $467.50).

The Spa at The Greenbrier Resort and Spa, White Sulphur Springs, W. Va., features the Junior Royalty Package, a mini manicure and pedicure that allows little ones to start out on the right foot (50 minutes, $110).

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Train to become a

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Child facial: The Spa at One&Only Palmilla, Los Cabos, Mexico, offers the Wish Upon a Star Facial (20 minutes, $40).

The Spa at the Beverly Wilshire, Beverly Hills, Calif., offers the Princess, a facial that includes a cleanse, the application of a glistening powder and lip gloss (15 minutes, $50).

Child massage: The Spa at the Beverly Wilshire features The Superhero, a green-based aromatherapy spray that helps muscles relax for a neck, shoulder and hand massage (15 minutes, $50).

permanent makeup professional at our world renowned permanent makeup training center.

The Spa at the Stowe Mountain Lodge, Stowe, Vt., offers the Mini Me Massage to de-stress a child’s body (25 minutes, $75).

Enhance and restore ones’ natural beauty with permanent makeup and areola tattooing. Our graduates have opportunities to work in medical practices, salons and medi spas or as solo practitioners.

Child manicure and pedicure:

Call today for our Tuition Specials!

888.763.2328

Located in Mount Laurel, New Jersey

beauinstitute.com Beau Institute founder Rose Marie Beauchemin

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The Spa at the Stowe Mountain Lodge offers the Tasty Toes Pedicure that will leave their toes smelling fresh like the bakery (25 minutes, $30). Their Princess Manicure is a quick buff and polish (25 minutes, $20). n

Nathalie Gouillou is the previous associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations.

WE DON’T STOP TIME, JUST ITS EFFECT ON YOUR SKIN

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #303 on reader service card

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SKIN WORKOUT Bioelements’ new Measured Micrograins+ is a multi-action facial scrub and mask meant to address concerns with ingredients to exfoliate, control oil, strengthen and calm the skin, says the company. The scrub features jojoba beads, iris root extract, colloidal oatmeal, plant extracts and essential oils.

877.550.4050 bioelements.com/pro

HD BENEFITS Bio-Therapeutic announces the development of their new HD masques for eyes, neck, and decolleté, says the company. The masques contain hyaluronic acid and sodium PCA for hydration, as well as arbutin and licorice extract for brightening skin.

800.976.2544 bio-therapeutic.com

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

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G.M. Collin introduces its Diamond Radiance Sculpting Cream, an innovative anti-aging luxury cream that blends diamond powder and Swiss snow algae, says the company. The miracle worker is the snow algae, a naturally protective plant that improves the health of skin cells and restores a youthful appearance.

800.341.1531 gmcollin.com

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FRESH FROM THE ALPS

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ENERGIZES SKIN HydroPeptide introduces its Stimulating Relief Balm: Anti-aging Energizing Therapy. This fastacting, deep penetrating and stimulating balm is designed to help comfort and relieve muscular tension, while sealing in vital moisture for strong, supple and more youthful-looking skin, says the company.

800.932.9873 hydropeptide.com

RESTOREs ELASTICITY Bioslimming’s latest Base Régénérante Renewing Oil regenerates, nourishes and remoisturizes dry and damaged skin, says the company. Skin will regain its smooth, satinlike appearance. The oil features shea butter, almond, apricot, frankincense and jojoba oils.

CARITA launches its Preparing Contour Scrub, a luxurious gel that transforms even the roughest skin for a velvety smooth finish, says the company. The texture changes from a gel into a transparent and invigorating oil when massaged into skin.

888.414.4471 caritadirect.com

POWER DUO Kerstin Florian presents its Body Slimming Duo, a two step approach to banish cellulite, stretch marks and improve elasticity, says the company. Step 1 includes a slimming serum with power actives to reduce adipose tissue.

Step 2 is a firming crème with active botanicals.

888.537.7846 kerstinflorian.com

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

SMOOTH and contoured

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323.656.2841 provencecosmetics.com

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LNEONLINE.COM Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

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CHAT with Grant Bruce

Director of Spa at Miraval Resort & Spa, Tucson, Ariz.

Grant Bruce is the spa director at Miraval Resort & Spa, Tucson, Ariz.

With more than a decade in the hospitality industry, Grant was the director of spa and fitness operations for The Spa at Trump in the Trump International Hotel and Tower in Chicago, Ill., and held a variety of hospitality roles for several luxury brands including The Venetian, Sheraton Hotel Chicago Hotel & Tower and W Chicago Lakeshore.

WHAT IS THE BEST ADVICE YOU’VE RECEIVED? Take care of your team as you can only be successful if you have their support!

WHAT ARE YOU READING NOW? “Unbroken and Long Walk to Freedom: The Autobiography of Nelson Mandela.”

HOW DO YOU MANAGE STRESS THAT WORK BRINGS INTO YOUR LIFE? Very easy, I do as our guests do! I take a yoga class, I meditate, and I walk the property, taking in the beautiful surroundings of the Santa Catalina Mountains.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT YOUR JOB? I love being a part of the daily transformations that occur at Miraval. To see our guests change and transform—physically, mentally and emo-

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tionally—before our eyes is such a beautiful and rewarding feeling.

HOW CAN YOU DEFINE THE CONCEPT OF YOUR SPA? Our spa concept is luxury minimalism with a natural design that puts our guests in a place of ultimate relaxation and allows them to achieve a mind-body-spirit connection. We focus our services on achieving real life-changing results from a team of the most talented providers.

CAN YOU GIVE US A BREAKDOWN OF YOUR SPA’S REVENUE COMPOSITION? 72 percent massage and body services, 16 percent skin care, 11 percent for our nail salon.

HOW DO YOU SELECT THE PEOPLE THAT ARE GOING TO BE WORKING WITH YOU? We have a lengthy but very successful hiring process that starts off with a background screen followed by a

We also like to have our vendors spend time in retail when they are on site for training and some of them will even teach a complimentary class or product demos. We try to plan these events a few months in advance to promote it in our weekly schedule and get our guests excited!

series of questions that give us a better understanding of that individual.

Once the applicants have completed those steps we bring them on property for a face-to-face interview with me and my colleagues. If the individual is interviewing for a service provider position, we will ask him/her to complete three practical services on other providers and my management team before we make a final decision.

HOW DO YOU TRAIN STAFF? We hold bi-monthly department meetings that block our 1-2 hours per meeting. We also have vendors training on a monthly/bi-monthly basis where our vendors come on site and do product training and retail training for the entire team.

DO YOU HOLD SPECIAL EVENTS, PROMOTIONS? Our retail team hosts beautiful trunk shows once a month for our guests.

HOW DO YOU KEEP LOCAL CUSTOMERS LOYAL? Our Day Spa guests stay loyal to the Miraval because we treat them as any other guest that stays on property.

We understand not everyone has the time to immerse for 4 or 5 days, so we have to make sure our Day Spa guests have the same transformation and will return for another day or book an overnight stay on their next visit.

WHAT ARE YOUR RETAIL GOALS? Our goal for retail is to provide a continuation of their Miraval experience when our guests return home.

Whether it is a new skin care regiment, a scrub, essential oils to soak in for relaxation or an Ayurveda oil to balance one’s well being, we want our guests to continue on that path until their next visit.

WHAT INCENTIVES DO YOU HAVE FOR YOUR STAFF TO REACH THESE GOALS? At Miraval we have built a couple different incentives for our team, the first of which being a retail commission on every product they sell. Additionally, we have collaborated with our won-

derful vendors who provide a wonderful gratis program based on the number of items that are sold for each line. The team loves receiving their gifts on a quarterly basis.

HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DO YOU HAVE AT EACH LOCATION AND WHAT ARE THEIR SPECIALTIES? 70+ massage therapists, 17 estheticians and eight nail techs/hair stylists, along with 25 support staff in the locker room, front desk, and back of house. n

Life in Balance Spa at Miraval Resorts • 31 treatment rooms • 18 massage/bodywork rooms • Six outdoor treatment rooms • Five esthetic rooms • Three pedicure stations, two manicure stations, 1 hair station • Two Naga Thai rooms • Four pools • 1 aqua Zen pool (Watsu) • Men’s and women’s locker rooms with private Jacuzzi, eucalyptus steam room and dry sauna Favorite treatments: Thai Massage, as it certainly helps with my training for Triathlons and Marathons. I also love Men’s Facial, but it must have extractions, I think I was an esthetician in a previous life!

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ANALYZE THIS! Investing in Forward Thinking Technology

by David Suzuki

H

ow do you best analyze an investment, and for that matter, how do you define an investment?

To invest: 1. To put money to use by purchase or expenditure, in something offering potential profitable returns, as interest, income, or appreciation in value.

2. To give or devote time, talent, etc., for the purpose of achieving something.

Two very different definitions, or are they?

Invest The first definition uses the word money, which lends this definition to the more practical and simple idea behind the word. While at the same time, they’re really one and the same.

We trade time for money and money for practical purchases to sustain our lives. We invest every minute of every day in one way or another. While some may be luckier than others, statistical data suggests that those who succeed and progress are those who invest assertively and pro-actively, as opposed to only investing when it’s absolutely necessary.

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business | analyze this!

- Depreciation: Each time that we invest in a new asset for

A Glass Half Full In the end, investing and how you invest really comes down to perspective. Is the glass half empty, or half full? While some may view investing in a new forward thinking skin care technology as a liability, others view it as an opportunity that can only partially be measured by a simple return on investment (ROI) calculation. This isn’t to say that the basic financial fundamentals shouldn’t be considered, only that a clear long term objective of what the investment represents must be established to truly understand and define whether or not it represents value and growth for your unique business and you.

The Basics of ROI

|

- IRS Rule 179: It gets even better. There is a U.S. IRS tax

rule specifically put in place to incentivize businesses to invest, as well as to keep the economy rolling. IRS Rule 179 allows businesses to accelerate the depreciation of all applicable assets to one year. This means that in one year, the $4,500 investment will have cost nothing.

Income Potential

Consider a system that sells for $4,500. Let’s break it down from a pure financial view.

Let’s assume that the average cost for a 30-minute service is between $120 and $250. Using the lower of the service averages, this is how the income profit potential may look:

- Life Expectancy: A well-built skin care device will have a

1 service per week (52 per year) = $6,240

life expectancy of 4-5 years. This is standard for equipment in that price range that you may purchase for your business.

Hand held technology will have a life expectancy of 1-2 years and be used and abused heavily. If we use the value of $4,500 and a life expectancy of 5 years, this investment cost is $900 per year or $75 per month.

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our business, we’re allowed to depreciate its value for the course of its life expectancy. Using the example of a $4,500 asset with a 5-year life expectancy, you would be able to realize a $900 tax value (deduction) per year. This is interesting as this is the same dollar amount that it costs per year to have the device. At the end of 5 years, this investment will have cost nothing.

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2 services per week (104 per year) = $12,480 5 services per week (260 per year) = $31,200 10 services per week (520 per year) = $62,400

CHOOSE YOUR STYLE

• CHOOSE YOUR COLOR

CHOOSE NEWAPEEL

From the makers of the Diamondtome crystal free microdermabrasion comes 3 new fantastic colors. You can choose: Majestic Bamboo, Nautical Blue, Zen Stone and of course our Classic. Pick the color that best fits your style.

AESTHETIC EXFOLIATION WAS NEVER SO COLORFUL.

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business | analyze this!

Keep in mind that each service is based on 30 minutes. This being said, 10 services per week equates to a five-hour workweek. Not bad for an asset that cost nothing!

Cost Per Application What about the cost to use the device? This is certainly a topic that you will want to keep front and center when considering which manufacturer to partner with as the cost per service can range dramatically. Most forward thinking manufacturers will have a cost per service that ranges from $00.50 to $1.00 per service, while there are still some in the market that will cost the skin therapist as much as $15.00 per service. Which one sounds like the better partner?

Maintenance, safety, and dependability are also key factors that should be considered when choosing a manufacturer to partner with. Two key certificates to ask for when vetting a manufacturer is their ISO 9001 and ISO 13485 certificates. These two certificates prove that they have a quality system in place that’s audited annually that meets the highest worldwide quality and safety standards for medical device manufacturing.

The Big Picture Many who shy away from investing in new tools and technology do so because they feel that they can exploit more business out of their current model without adding anything new.

While every business can certainly function more efficiently, clients don’t care about our bottom line. They care about having the most forward thinking, advanced skin care service available, which includes the use of the latest technology.

Investing in forward thinking skin care technology is about keeping your clients satisfied, which equates to client retention. Experts suggest that it can cost as much as 10 times more to find new customers than to satisfy your existing customers.

The System Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #140 on reader service card

Regardless of which way you slice it, investing in technology is smart business.

What other investment can you make that costs you nothing, increases your service revenue per hour, secures client retention, attracts new clients, and quadruples your retail sales? Forward thinking skin care technology! n

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David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com.

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business

Spa

Business

101

revisiting the basics

by Louis Silberman

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business | spa business 101

When I think of the unprecedented growth of the med spa business in the last decade, it’s almost impossible to believe. It’s also difficult to comprehend how many things in the industry have evolved in a relatively short amount of time. Technological advances have been astounding—from radical improvements in laser and light-based equipment, to better and expanded ways of injecting dermal fillers, and of course, the explosion of social media. It’s certainly a different yet more exciting playing field than it was in the early 2000s.

But in our quest to chase the “new and improved,” we sometimes lose track of the fundamentals required for strong, long-term business performance. It’s important to revisit proven techniques for running a successful spa business. Let’s look at how we can effectively apply these basics in today’s ever-changing business climate.

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WHAT’S MOST IMPORTANT IN MARKETING? GENERATION X, Y OR REVENUE? You guessed it—it’s revenue. Because no matter how many times a day you’re Tweeting about your business, posting specials on Facebook or selling Groupons, nothing really matters if clients aren’t walking in your door repeatedly to spend money on your services. Client relationships are crucial. Marketing is essential, and providing in-demand services is key. But all of these things are only relevant if they are in fact generating revenue.

Traditional marketing There are many ways to improve revenue generation, both traditional and what’s called “guerilla.” Standard media channels typically work

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business | spa business 101

but can be prohibitively expensive: television, radio, print and online advertising. The good news is that there are now affordable versions of all of them.

• Television ads, while always expensive, are not limited to just a few large network conglomerates. There are many local startup cable and Internet channels with significantly lower advertising costs.

• Print advertising has also become easier, more affordable and even DIY, thanks to online printing services like Vistaprint, Shutterfly and moo.com. From business cards to letterheads, many web shops will not only help you design a logo (or let you use your own), they will also execute the mailing for a reasonable fee.

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• Digital media is often less expensive than print and worth looking into as part of your total marketing budget.

Guerilla marketing Aside from these traditional types of marketing, there’s also the opportunity for “guerilla marketing” to obtain clients using time and effort rather than dollars.

• Television, radio and print. You can work to establish yourself as an expert in your field to obtain interviews on these media channels.

If you succeed at this, you will receive expensive media coverage and not have to pay for it. A five-minute interview with a local daily talk

business | spa business 101

Bowman also advises using all of the tools in your arsenal to track results, such as a unique phone number assigned to a particular ad, or a unique landing page to track click-throughs.

According to Ian Bowman, Spa Marketing Manager at National Laser Institute, “Most people need to hear something a minimum of three times before taking action.” He says you should be persistent but also realistic. “For example, you can’t launch a radio campaign and give up after a week because you didn’t get 1,000 calls. Depending on the platform used, four weeks is usually the minimum amount of time you want to give a campaign a trial-run.”

Bowman also advises using all of the tools in your arsenal to track results, such as a unique phone number assigned to a particular ad, or a unique landing page to track click-throughs.

And don’t forget about communication, both with your front desk and your clients. Ensuring your staff consistently asks, “How did you hear about us?” will reveal valuable patterns to you about your customer.

Control Your Costs—or They’ll Control You

show host about the services you offer can gain you miles of exposure. Try calling a small radio station and ask them if there’s a spot for you.

You might be surprised by the enthusiastic response you receive!

• Make your business mobile. For example, could you offer microdermabrasion at your local gym or doctor’s office?

• Loyalty programs, industry discounts, networking with colleagues are other forms of guerilla marketing.

The two most important questions to consider when determining the effectiveness of any marketing initiative are: • Do I have the proper tracking in place?, • Have I given this enough time to work?

Keeping control over what you spend goes hand in hand with tracking to ensure you’re spending on the things that provide the biggest return.

It’s easy to engage in frivolous spending when you get busy and consequently fail to check back on performance. Websites such as capterra.com provide all the information you need about small business software and tracking packages, and it has a category just for spas.

Many software companies offer a free demo, and there are plenty of customer reviews to answer all of your questions.

Creating a sterling reputation Establishing a great reputation for your business naturally means delivering both quality and consistency to your customer, but there’s a third element that’s perhaps even more important:

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going above and beyond what’s expected of you. There are so many ways to achieve this, big and small. Most don’t require a big budget and many won’t cost you a dime, just a passion for what you do, an eye for detail and the ability to anticipate your customer’s needs.

Here are some other examples of how businesses can create their own sterling reputations, which you can easily emulate or modify to make them your own: • A valet who already has pulled the car around by the time you hand your ticket to them (the waiter has notified the valet via pager). They call you by name when they wish you a good evening. Can you communicate in a similar way with your front desk about products that the client may be interested in, follow-up treatments, etc. to suggest to them when they check out?

• Including a mini back massage and trimming your client’s eyebrows at no additional charge with a facial.

• Offering a complimentary paraffin treatment with a regular pedicure.

Building a virtual reputation Gone are the days when “customer feedback” boxes were located somewhere near the actual point of sale. Today, we rely on social networking sites like Yelp to find out if customers are happy with our services. When they’re thrilled

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with our services, we’re thrilled with the subsequent good publicity. But that’s not always the case. Sometimes, no matter how hard you try, you encounter a client who isn’t going to be satisfied. It happens. You can’t control what people write online. But if you always give your best (and reach out in a very professional way to an online complaint), you’re going to be fine in the long run.

As you continue to nurture your business and grow alongside it, always remember to ask yourself how you can add value to your client’s experience. How can you be unique, different and memorable? Consider this: If you were coming to your own business as a first-time customer, what would turn you into a customer for life? Revisiting the basics at least once a year will ensure that your business stays on track and continues to thrive. n

Louis Silberman is president and founder of National Laser Institute.

He is an expert in medical esthetics, a medical spa owner and a nationally recognized author, marketing speaker and business consultant. Silberman can be contacted at 800.982.6817 or louis@nlionline.com.

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NEW LINE BelleC么te Paris is an anti-aging skin care technology with potent seaborne ingredients, says the company. BelleC么te combines seabased bioactive ingredients and natural phytoagents with potent amino acids to quickly improve skin tone and firmness, restore radiance and reduce pore size.

855.587. 8781 bellecoteparis.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

charitable affiliation De La Terre Skincare announced its partnership with the Ocular Melanoma Foundation (OMF) to raise money and support the mission of OMF, while bringing awareness to the benefits of De La Terre Skincare products, says the company.

delaterreskincare.com ocularmelanoma.org/de-la-terre.htm

EDUCATIONAL PORTAL Innovative Skincare lauched its iS University, an educational portal, says the company. The online community enables participants to log in on their own schedule and be guided through courses on industry trends, business and the latest technologies.

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TRAINING DAYS Cuccio held the Carnaval en Gel, an educational event in Tegucigalpa, Honduras.

The two-day training included a special appearance by Anthony Cuccio, who spoke to attendees (about 145 nail technicians from around the country) about how to make a profit with add-ons.

800.762.6245 cuccio.com

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Power Fungus KEEPING UP WITH

kombucha

by Vincent Kolb

K

ombucha — a well known ingredient among the modern health foodie — is a type of yeast primarily used in fermented tea form.

While kombucha originated in ancient China more than 2,000 years ago, it’s come into the spotlight in Western society for its plethora of health benefits and celebrity following. This fermented libation — which is often flavored with ginger, elderberry syrup or other citrus fruits and berries — is often called a “health elixir.”

The kombucha culture, which contains multiple species of yeast and bacteria, organic acids, active enzymes, amino acids and polyphenols, is added to sweetened green or black tea before being fermented for seven to 10 days. The nutrient packed concoction also contains varying amounts of acetic acid, B vitamins and vitamin C.

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organic & wellness | power fungus Consider incorporating the powers of kombucha into your spa’s offerings. This beneficial ingredient is appearing in an abundance of skin care products you can use in your treatments. Then offer your clients a complimentary kombucha beverage to enjoy with their treatment. If you have a juice bar, add this miracle tea to your menu!

NUTRITIONAL POWERHOUSE DETOXIFICATION/CLEANSING Kombucha is rich in many of the enzymes and bacterial acids produced by the body to detox the system, thus reducing the pancreatic load and easing the burden on the liver.

IMPROVED DIGESTION As a probiotic supplement, kombucha supports the balance of the gut bacteria, helping to fight off harmful yeast and promote good digestion. Proper digestion is associated with better health and vitality, lower incidence of illness, and ultimately more glowing, youthful skin. The probiotics in kombucha can temper inflammation that causes conditions such as acne and rosacea by stabilizing the lining of the intestinal walls and limiting the growth of inflammatoryinducing microorganisms.

MORE ENERGY Kombucha’s reputation as an energizing element is credited to the formation of iron that’s released from the black tea during the fermentation process. Through a chelation process, the iron released helps boost blood hemoglobin, improving oxygen supply to tissues and stimulating the energy producing process at the cellular level. B vitamins also provide more energy.

IMMUNITY HEALTH Unique elements in kombucha protect against cell damage and inflammatory diseases, and clinical tests have shown it to decrease oxidative stress. The probiotics in kombucha are known to support the immune system.

WEIGHT LOSS Kombucha is believed to improve metabolism and limit fat accumulation. While more studies are needed to confirm this, it is high in acetic acid and polyphenols, known to assist in weight loss.

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organic & wellness | power fungus

TOPICAL TREASURE The outstanding properties of kombucha are now being recognized beyond its nutritional advantages and credited for their topical benefits. The International Dermal Institute website glossary explains Kombucha (under the title Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment) as an ingredient that can boost “skin immune function and assist in restoring volume to deficient zones in the skin.”

Recent studies reported that kombucha extract help maintain moisture and elasticity, thus being beneficial to skin.

Kombucha is credited with delivering a long list of benefits including detoxification, hydration, increased elasticity, improvement in skin tone, texture, clarity, and minimization of the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

Anti-aging Kombucha is a rich source of antioxidants, which help slow the aging process by neutralizing free radicals, lessening wrinkles and promoting skin elasticity. Kombucha has been shown to increase adipocyte (fat cell) population in the skin, restoring plumpness to deficient zones, and thus making it a viable solution for mature skin. Some prominent figures in the skin care industry also argue in favor of kombucha for its effects in fighting glycation.

Balances skin pH Diet and environmental pollution can increase pH in the skin, which can result in breakouts. When skin is at optimal pH, it’s primed to retain moisture and protect against environmental threats. The antiseptic quality and organic acids in kombucha work to cleanse the skin and balance the skin’s pH for a clearer complexion.

Reduces dark spots The citric acid in kombucha helps slow the production of melanocytes, and helps fade existing little dark marks that formed over time. n

Vincent Kolb is the Director of Training and Retail Development for Elemental Herbology.

Anti-inflammatory action

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Studies by The American Academy of Dermatology have shown that topical application of probiotics help decrease skin sensitivity and redness.

Combating inflammation and harmful bacteria improves skin clarity, eliminates dryness and enhances anti-aging effects. The healthy bacteria fight the bad bacteria that rest in the sebaceous oil glands and cause pimples.

THE PROBIOTICS IN KOMBUCHA CAN TEMPER INFLAMMATION THAT CAUSES CONDITIONS SUCH AS ACNE AND ROSACEA BY STABILIZING THE LINING OF THE INTESTINAL WALLS AND LIMITING THE GROWTH OF INFLAMMATORYINDUCING MICROORGANISMS.

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allergy

relief Soothe your Clients’ Symptoms with

Cold Stones + Aromatherapy

By Kelly Lott

D

o you have clients who suffer with allergy sinus pain, pressure and headaches? No doubt you do, as millions of people suffer every year from environmental agitation and food allergies. Allergy and migraine pain can be so debilitating that it impairs normal activity and interferes with daily life.

You can alleviate allergy and migraine pain for your clients through this cutting-edge modality that incorporates pressure point massage, cold stones and aromatherapy. This treatment is very easy on the hands of the practitioner, yet dramati-

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cally effective on the client. After the treatment, your client’s pain or headache will be completely gone — or at least 50 percent better.

The three-part approach lasts approximately 30 minutes and includes specific headache point releases, essential oils (aromatherapy) applied to the face and pulse points, and the use of specially designed and crafted cold marble stones placed in strategic areas to reduce the inflammation. Common spots of pain are sinus areas, forehead, and behind the eyes, as well as facial pressure and swelling.

Watch a demonstration of Kelly Lott performing this treatment at LNEONLINE.com

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organic & wellness | allergy relief The first step in stopping an allergy headache or sinus pain is to calm the client, and the best way to do that quickly is with aromatherapy.

Have the client inhale two separate blends: one that includes essential oils of Roman chamomile, lavandin, peppermint and rosemary, and a second blend that includes essential oils of

Pa r t 1 1: Once your client is lying down, apply the chosen blend across their forehead, sinus (beside the nostrils), carotids, above the lips and inside wrists. Just simply breathing in the aromatherapy will affect the brain within seconds, bringing them calm and comfort.

2: Using your two middle fingers, press underneath the client’s eyebrow bone, pull the bone back toward you, and hold for 20 seconds. This is called the sinus frontalis release point.

3: Using the same middle fingers, press down toward the table at the sinus points (beside both nostrils) for 20 seconds.

4: Do 10 circular massage movements at the same sinus points. This will help break up and loosen mucus. After completing the circles, use your fingers and strip across the cheekbones four times from the nostrils to the ears (the natural drains).

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lemon, peppermint, basil and fennel.

For the treatment, use the blend that the client enjoys the most. Their preference usually depends on what’s irritating them. If they like both blends, use them simultaneously. This may be the case when there is more than one irritant causing their sinus pain or headache.

After the treatment, your client’s pain or headache will be completely gone — or at least 50 percent better.

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Always in High Concentrations.

Experience Age Defying Results.

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organic & wellness | allergy relief

Part 2

Incorporate the following aromatherapy techniques using your same middle fingers:

1:

2:

3:

Forehead thumb strip: Using the flats of your thumbs just above eyebrows, press in deeply, pull up the fascia and then strip across toward the temple. Move up slightly, pull up and strip out. Move up until you are at the hairline. Repeat.

Middle finger pull-up: Using your middle fingertips (one on top of the other) just above the right outer edge of one eyebrow, deeply and slowly strip up toward the hairline. Continue this stripping straight up and across the entire forehead. Repeat.

Forehead criss-cross: Start at center just above the right eyebrow. With your middle fingers, criss-cross the fascia tightly together, moving up to hairline.

Go back to center and criss-cross up, then above the left eyebrow, and crisscross up again.

4: Watch a demonstration of Kelly Lott performing this treatment at LNEONLINE.com

Forehead lift: Place the palms of your hands (one on top of the other) at the bridge of the nose, and lift the entire forehead fascia up toward the hairline, deeply and slowly. Repeat three times.

5: Re-activate the aromatherapy. Massage the temples, sinus points, carotids and wrists gently in circles four times.

Each marble stone used in this modality has a specific shape, job and placement. Follow this sequence:

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1:

3:

6:

Dry each stone with a towel before placing on the face and head.

Place the first oval on the center of forehead just above the eyebrows; the second to the right of the center stone above the right eyebrow, and a third to the left of the center stone above the left eyebrow. If it’s too intense for the client, remove the stone(s) and hold in the palms of your hands for 15 seconds.

Place an oval stone at both sinus points (beside each nostril). Then, lay the last one on the chin horizontally (make sure it’s not touching the lower lip).

Using two temple round stones and your fingertips, gently and slowly touch the temples with the stones resting lightly. If that’s too intense, back away slightly. Hold for 20-30 seconds. Use these same stones to apply deep pressure all around and into the skull.

You can also place the edges of the stones in ears and pull back with traction. This helps alleviate ear pressure caused by mucus.

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5: Place two small half-moon stones on each eyelid or just underneath the eyes (for swollen painful eye area), balancing on the bridge of the nose.

organic & wellness | allergy relief

7: Put round stones back in water and get the two large half-moon stones.

With one stone in your hand, place it to the occipital ridge, starting on the side that the migraine is on. Add the second half moon stone to the other side and hold both to the occiput (back of head or scalp) for up to one minute.

Then traction the occiput and neck by pulling back toward yourself, with the marble stones for another 20 seconds. Bring out the rounds again and repeat at each position. Then, put the half-moon stones and rounds back in the water to refreeze, about 15 seconds.

Repeat process with the half moons at the occiput for up to one minute.

8: Start removing all the facial stones, one at a time, starting at the chin, and place back into the water. Leave the large half-moons at their neck/occiput.

The first center oval stone you applied should be removed last.

9: Place a dark colored washcloth in the bowl of water and then wring it out.

Fold it into thirds and place across the eyes and forehead, pressing gently.

Ask your client to breathe in deeply, and exhale two or three times. Allow client to rest for up to 15 minutes.

10: Remove the washcloth and the large half-moons; place back into water.

Assist your client slowly into a sitting position, completely supporting them at the neck. Make sure they aren’t lightheaded before they get off the table.

The treatment is over, and so is your client’s allergy pain and headache!

For this 30-minute treatment, spas and practitioners commonly charge between $50 and $80. I suggest allowing a 15-minute rest time afterward.

Clients love the immediate, absolute relief cold marble stones bring to swollen sinuses, eyes, temples and head. The stones need to be chilled to 36 degrees to reduce the inflammation to the sinus and head. If you cannot store stones in a refrigerator, you can achieve this temperature by placing them in a metal pan or bowl on top of a washcloth, completely covering the stones in a solution that’s 50 percent ice and 50 percent cold water for 30 minutes prior to treatment.

Kelly ator

Lott, of

cre-

Migraine

Miracle-Cold

Stone

Therapy for Migraine Headaches, is a leading

spokesperson

on natural and holistic treatments for migraines and headaches. Lott was recently voted into the Hall of Fame at the World Massage Festival. A nationwide certified massage instructor, she has 24 years of professional practice experience.

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ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

PEAR-FECT FarmHouse Fresh introduces Brandy Pear Sea Salt Body Polish featuring Bartlett Pear Brandy, and vitamin E-rich rice bran oil. “It takes 1 pound of bartlett pears, crushed and fermented, to distill the brandy in every single jar of our new body polish,” said Shannon McLinden, CEO of FarmHouse Fresh.

888.773.9626 farmhousefreshgoods.com

SWEET MOISTURE Bellaroma’s Cherry Avocado Nourishing Facial Mask is high in vitamins and minerals that will nourish skin and bring a healthy glow, says the company. The mask features organic avocado oil, cherry kernel oil, kaolin clay and bentonite clay.

bellaromaboutique.com

RAINFOREST wonder Teadora’s new Salt DualFunction Scrub Treatment can be used two ways: by rubbing on the body and rinsing or by wrapping in a warm towel and leaving on for 5 to 15 minutes, says the company. The scrub features buriti oil, andiroba oil, maracuja oil and copaiba as well as red clay and organic Brazilian sea salt.

866.839.8927 teadorabeauty.com

COCKTAIL READY Angel Minaro’s Chardonnay Silk Antioxidant Masque is a dry powder clay mask made with skin softening coconut milk, detoxifying clay, and Chardonnay grape seed oil to moisturize the skin, says the company. Suitable for all skin types, it can be used on the face and body.

866.535.3775 angelminaro.com

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Let’s Talk

MAKEUP With Samantha Brooks Owner of Blossom Salon + Spa, Austin, Texas

An Austin, Texas, native, Samantha Brooks is a licensed esthetician, who has worked in the beauty industry for more than 16 years. She has owned Blossom Salon + Spa for six years and just opened her second location in downtown Austin. Her mission is to provide top notch salon and spa services that are not only relaxing, but results oriented as well.

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IMPLEMENTING MAKEUP INTO A SPA When did you decide to implement makeup into your studio?

I wanted to incorporate makeup when I opened my first location, which we did shortly after we opened in 2009.

women and teens who want to learn how to apply it and what they should be wearing based on skin tone, etc.

How did you do it?

I had vendors contacting me, but wanted to find the right fit‌ As with everything I bring on, I always do my research.

Where is your makeup area located?

We chose for the makeup area to be at the front of our space next to the windows in the salon so we can get plenty of natural lighting. We also have vanity lighting as well. Our makeup stations have plenty of storage as well as well as plenty of countertop space and comfortable chairs for our clients to sit in.

What prompted you to want to implement makeup into the spa?

Makeup for us is a great service to offer for weddings and events, and for

How did you select makeup artists?

I did most of the makeup starting out and as we grew we had our estheticians and stylists applying it as well.

THE SERVICES What kind of makeup services do you offer on the menu?

We offer bridal and non bridal makeup services, and makeup applications for women and teens who are wanting to either freshen up their makeup selection, or have a makeup application with lesson to learn more about their skin and which shades best suit their complexion.

All of my makeup artists are licensed professionals who have been working in the industry for many years.

THE LINE

How did you select your makeup line?

After a lot of research I chose a line based in Dallas, Texas. I love to support women owned businesses and the owner […] is truly helpful and knowledgeable as she has worked in the industry as well for quite awhile.

I sample from product lines before I buy anything, it is a must. I keep up to date with the industry and I do a lot of research as well.

How popular are your makeup services?

In Austin, bridal services and special event services are very popular, so we work on a lot of wedding parties. And in the near future we plan to branch out and also provide makeup for local fashion shows etc.

Which service is the most popular?

Bridal.

worth $200. The owner of the makeup line that we carry comes and also provides makeup applications as well.

Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment?

Everyone on our staff is trained to cross promote because it makes the business successful as a whole.

Everyone also gets commission on products sold so that is a good motivator as well.

REVENUE How profitable are makeup services?

They can be very profitable, especially during wedding season here in the spring and in the fall.

Where does makeup rank in your spa revenue composition?

It is a close tie for third with massage. n

PROMOTION How do you promote your makeup services?

We generally have an in-house makeup event about every six months, where we offer complimentary mini makeovers with a $30 deposit, which can be used towards the purchase of makeup that night. At the end of the event we raffle a makeup goodie bag LNEonline.com

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SHOW STOPPING

By Hannah Hatcher

Have you noticed that more of your clients are considering lip injections? This is no surprise, as the look of full, naturally pouty lips is rapidly gaining popularity across the globe.

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image | show stopping smackers!

T

his is certainly influenced in part by what’s trending in Hollywood, as full lips are a classic sign of youth, seen on A-list celebrities such as Angelina Jolie. Makeup that creates full lip looks can be adapted for a variety of contexts, from daytime to special occasion. No needles required!

Now is a great time for makeup artists to get ahead of the curve by mastering this look.

Your clients can now say good-bye to lip plumpers that make their lips feel as if they’re on fire.

The full lip look can be achieved through simple steps, choice colors and artistry techniques that will have the masses guessing: Has she or hasn’t she gotten her lips done?

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step 1 Prime lips for color Once lips are prepped, it’s time to “prime” them. Start by making the entire lip area nude. Apply a concealer along the outline of the lips, and also blend it into the lips. The object here is to blur the client’s true lip line. You can also apply a little bit of powder over the top of the concealer to set it in place for longer wear. This creates a uniform canvas on the lips, which allows you to draw the lip line with as much exaggeration as you wish, and ensure that the lip color you apply on top will stay in place.

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image | show stopping smackers!

step 2 Smooth the canvas If lips are dry, dehydrated and flaky, they will not reflect light and they will appear dull. Exfoliate lips with a gentle exfoliant to remove any flakes. A brown sugar based lip scrub works perfectly, and tastes delicious too! This creates a smooth canvas for you to work on, and also increases the circulation in the lip area, thus creating a little bit of volume and a natural flush of color.

step 3 Time for some color and artistry!

To line the lips, select either a nude, pinky nude or light neutral shade. Wearing a color that’s too dark can create the illusion of smaller or slimmer lips. Think about that favorite little black dress you have. Why do you love it so much? Because it’s slimming! The same idea applies to lip liner choices. Dark hued liners can also make the mouth appear a tad flat, rather than full and voluminous. A dark lip liner also has staying power, lingering long after lipstick or gloss wears off. To make the lips appear larger, line just slightly outside the lip line. Don’t draw them too large, as this will be fake looking. Bordering just up above the lip line is ideal. Fill in the entire lip with the liner as well.

When it comes to color, there are ways to play with several different shades, but the color should always be somewhat light and neutral. For example, you can try an ombré-like trick by applying a darker nude lipstick or gloss to the center of the lips. This, contrasted up against the light liner that was used, will help create depth and definition. It can be tricky to find the correct neutral shade to create this type of illusion, as you don’t want to go too light, or have a frost-like finish. These will have a negative effect that’s unflattering to almost every skin tone. Instead, go with something more sheer than opaque, and choose a product with a gloss-like finish. This makes light bounce off the lips, so they appear hydrated and full.

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image

To make the lips appear larger, line just slightly outside the lip line. Don’t draw them too large, as this will be fake looking.

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step 4 Enhance the plumped pout Some makeup artists use a water resistant light brown eyeliner pencil to create a small shadow underneath the bottom lip line. Be extremely careful doing this — too much pencil results in a beard! Just a light flick of the wrist will create a small 3D-like shadow, thus making the lips look fuller.

If this trick seems a little dicey, there is another illusion you can do instead. Using a white eyeliner pencil or highlighter pencil, apply a small amount just above the cupid’s bow on the top lip, and a small amount on the lower lip just below the lip line. Blend well with your fingertips so there are no obvious lines of demarcation or white around the lips. The light color around the lips creates an illusion of light, making the lips pop.

image | show stopping smackers!

step 5 Home care Lip scrub. While you address dry lips in Step 1, emphasize the importance of keeping lips soft all the time by exfoliating lips regularly with a lip scrub. This also keeps their lips ready for product application as they create their looks on their own.

Pout plumper (instant). For clients looking to immediately plump their pout, recommend products with ingredients that stimulate circulation, such as ginger root extract or spearmint and peppermint oils. The boost in circulation creates a temporary plumping as it sends blood to the site of application. This helps lips look fuller, faster—the effects are apparent almost immediately. n

GREEN PEEL® herbal peeling

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Pout plumper (long term). Make sure your clients use a long-term lip-plumping product both day and night.

Recommend a plumping product that contains peptides, which increase hydration and stimulate collagen synthesis.

Make sure your client understands that peptides take time to work, and show results with regular use and application.

1 product – 3 treatment options. The treatment result is guided by the amount of herbal ingredients. GREEN PEEL® herbal peeling is suitable for almost any type of skin and can solve a vast range of skin problems. Worldwide experience for more than 50 years.

GREEN PEEL® herbal peeling – the Original.

Hannah Hatcher is a global educator for JANE IREDALE—The Skin Care Makeup®.

A makeup artist and licensed esthetician, she previously taught post-graduate skin care for seven years with the International Dermal Institute. Hatcher thrives on product knowledge and inspiring others through her teaching.

The power of natural beauty.

Interested? We will gladly send you further information. international@schrammek.de | www.greenpeel.com

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RADIANCE ENHANCING Thalgo Silicium Anti-Aging Foundation illuminates the skin for a natural looking result in every light, says the company. Offered in three shades, it makes the skin gradually appear firmer, smoother and velvety soft.

954.525.9665 thalgousa.com

PERFECT DUO Qosmedix introduced its Mini Blending Sponge Set, which includes a purple mini oblong blending sponge and a pink mini slanted sponge tip applicator brush.

Both tools flawlessly apply makeup to skin and easily reach facial contours, says the company. Can be used wet or dry.

Image News

631.242.3270 qosmedix.com

CATTY EYES

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Lady Burd’s Indelible Gel Eyeliners are a makeup must have, says the company. The intense color last all day, are easy to apply and water resistant. They work for all skin types.

800.345.3448 ladyburd.com

COSMIC GIRL Inglot launched a collection of five AMC Pure Pigment Eye Shadows inspired by the latest trends in color, says the company. The glittery collection comes in peachy golden, rosy pink, chameleon green, blue and violet.

212.672.7124 inglotusa.com

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ADVERTISER INDEX Page Number

Reader Service No.

93............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 82............... Beau Institute Of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 8................. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 94............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 99............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................. 335 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 105............. Bon Vital.................................................................. bonvital.com................................................................... 265 21............... Carefree Naturals / Rubber Ducky.......................... rubberduckysunscreen.com............................................. 317 81,127........ Christine Schrammek Kosmetik Gmbh.................... schrammek.de................................................................. 166 25............... Circadia................................................................... circadia.com.................................................................... 101 132............. Dermapenworld...................................................... dermapenworld.com....................................................... 136 28............... Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro Usa............................................................ equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 123............. Farmhouse Fresh..................................................... farmhousefreshgoods.com.............................................. 181 29............... France Laure........................................................... francelaure.com............................................................... 199 83............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 79............... Grandelash - Md..................................................... grandelash-md.com........................................................ 286 5................. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 9................. Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 117............. Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 60,61.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach........... longbeach.skincareshows.com 86,87.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa:Philadelphia........... philadelphia.skincareshows.com 13............... Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 113............. Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 95............... PFB Vanish.............................................................. pfbvanish.com................................................................. 229 109............. Postquam................................................................ postquamusa.com........................................................... 177 129............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 68,69.......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 19............... Revitalash................................................................ revitalash......................................................................... 346 103............. Sothys..................................................................... sothys-usa.com.com........................................................ 306 125............. TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 27............... Vivant...................................................................... vivantskincare.com.......................................................... 282

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims.

Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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Re-write history with Dermapen 3™ creates millions of fractional micro-channels in the skin. The body's natural response is to renew and repair the damage.

With no injections, heat or downtime, Dermapen 3™ is safe on all skin colours to treat an array of skin conditions.

Dermapen 3™’s Advanced Oscillating Vertical Needling (AOVN™) technology allows the pen to harmoniously glide over the skin with precise automation. Discomfort is significantly reduced, whilst the absorption of active treatment products is maximised.

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Trauma scar Result after 3 sessions Courtesy of Dr. Hasan Fakahany

Acne scarring Result after 1 treatment Courtesy of Dr. Abbas Al-Taiff