LNE & Spa - May 2015

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals May 2015

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In vivo results after 28 day clinical study

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MAY 2015

V o lume 30

Numb e r 5

CONTENTS SKIN

ORGANIC & WELLNESS

Ice+Fire Banish Bridezilla Blues

10 14 His and Her Aging Concerns 22 Skin News 32

Cha-Cha-Chia!

98 Hashing it Out 102 Organic & Wellness News 110

Hashing it Out

Ice+Fire

page 102

page 10

MAKEUP GUIDE

Change

Makeup: A New Revenue Stream 34 Choosing the Best Makeup Line for Your Spa 36 Makeup Retail Design 38 The Making of a Makeup Menu 40 How to Train Your Staff to Sell Makeup 42 Marketing Techniques that Sell Makeup 44 Makeup Photo Feature 46

page 114

Adding makeup is an easy way to increase your revenue!

IMAGE

We cover everything you need to build a successful and profitable makeup business from the ground up.

Makeup Guide page 33

MAKEUP GUIDE

EXTRAS

SPA Spa of the Month It’s Raining Men Spa News

Image News

Let’s Talk Makeup with Amanda Lemmage 112 Change 114 Modern Man 118 128

54 60 74

From the Editor 6 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Miami Beach 2015 Recap 50 Advertiser Index 130

BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Jennifer Lynn Organic Entrepreneurship Facts and Figures Business News

78 80 86 94

Cover Courtesy of Jean Louis David 2015

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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“What I love about the HydraFacial MD® are the results. It supports and complements the other services that we offer!”

Holleigh Alexander-Ramsey Director of Spa Spa by JW at JW Marriott Houston Downtown

A HydraFacial MD® treatment is performed approximately every 56 seconds Now is your chance to own a HydraFacial MD®. Call now for a special offer! www.hydrafacial.com/mysuccess 800-603-4996 Use promo code: LN05P for more information.

Made in the USA

HydraFacial and HydraFacial MD are registered trademarks of Edge Systems LLC. Edge For Life and My Life. My Time. My Skin. are trademarks of Edge Systems LLC. This product and its use are covered by one or more U.S. and International patents.

Patent info: www.edgeforlife.com/patents. Other U.S. and foreign patents pending. Copyright© 2015 Edge Systems LLC. All rights reserved.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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from the

editor your business, your way...

NO minimum buy in.

A Forward Thinking Skin Care line easily tailored to fit your vision, budget, backbar, and retail.

As we close in on the summer months, two big opportunities for the spa industry immediately come to mind: Father’s Day and wedding season. The approach of these occasions means an immediate surge in extra business and a chance to grow your client base. The May issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa is packed with insightful articles on these and many other topics to help you boost your bottom line!

Learn how “man”-opause and menopause affect the skin in “His and Her Aging Concerns” on page 22. Also, don’t miss the latest updates on all the hottest male spa trends with the help of “It’s Raining Men” on page 60. In addition, get some in-depth insight on the increasingly bold facial hair styles men are sporting now, and how to help them enhance their abundant new facial fuzz with “Modern Man: The Rise of the Lumbersexual” on page 118.

This wedding season, get ready to “Banish Bridezilla Blues” with targeted treatments to relax frazzled brides in the months, weeks and days leading up to the big event. Get

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ideas to provide them with inner calm and clearer complexions, starting on page 14.

Our special guide this month covers everything you need to know about implementing a new makeup business into your spa, from choosing a line to training your staff to sell makeup. Don’t miss out on this key insight in our Makeup Guide, starting on page 33.

Wishing you great health and joy in these final days of spring! n

REV080414

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com

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Bio-Therapeutic works in your business.

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Coral Gables, Florida 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com email: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Associate Editor Nathalie Gouillou nathalie@lneonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@lneonline.com Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@lneonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@lneonline.com

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Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@lneonline.com

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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontr ibutors Michael Bruggeman Diane Buccola Caroline Canetti Gia DeRose Elina Fedotova Nathalie Gouillou

Laetitia Longuefosse

David Suzuki

Sam Margulies

Pamela Taylor

Alex Koo Murray

Mary Turner

Trena Ross

Amanda Clinton Winter

Dori Soukup

Tina Zillmann

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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May 2015 March 2015 • Les • Les Nouvelles Nouvelles Esthétiques Esthétiques && Spa Spa

Visit our website: www.ladyburd.com

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ICE+FIRE Cold and Hot Enhancements to Your Facial Services by

Caroline Canetti

H

ot and warm facial treatments now have new competition with their polar opposite: cold therapies. While the warming benefits of hot stones have been used for ages to help stimulate the blood vessels and relax the face and mind; the chillier options—long overlooked but rising in popularity—primarily serve to calm the skin and reduce inflammation. Offering both can really help your spa stand out from the pack and provide a refreshing alternative for your clients in the summer months ahead.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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skin | ice+fire

ICE

Cold Stone, Shell and Oxygen Facials

“Cold stones are great for calming the skin after a chemical peel or microdermabrasion, or someone who has sensitive skin. It assists with reducing inflammation and slowing blood flow, so it can be a great treatment for someone with acne. This can also be helpful when doing extractions or waxing, to reduce bleeding. It feels great, especially in people with conditions such as high blood pressure or hormone imbalance,” says Wendy Solomon, owner of Flawless Day Spa in Chapel Hill, N.C. Blue Healing Spa in Huntsville, Ala., offers a Cold Stone Facial (30 minutes, $35) that incorporates facial massage, a detox mask, hot steam towels, and chilled basalt stones. The massage helps with circulation and relaxation; the detox mask eliminates toxins from the pores, the hot steam towel opens the pores to release the toxins, and the final step uses the chilled basalt stones to reduce swelling, tighten pores, and provide a smoother appearance.

The soothing cold therapy provides immediate comfort and relief from overexposure to the sun or wind.

Cold therapies for the face have moved beyond just stones, and include cold oxygen and chilled seashells as well.

Skin Apeel Day Spa in Boca Raton, Fla., uses pneumatic oxygen as an add-on to facials to help tone, calm, and seal target actives,” says owner Kim Knapp. “We finish 50 percent of our skin treatments in this fashion as pure oxygen infused with heavy water. It works wonders on all skin types. It’s gaining popularity with clients after laser, chemical peels, and cosmetic surgery to expedite fast and infection free recovery, and is also used to help treat burns and heat-related injuries,” she says.

Beach Ready Spa in Seaside, Fla., offers a Cooling Shell Facial (50 minutes, $115), which

soothes and relieves over-exposed skin with their signature tiger clamshells. “It’s especially beneficial to rosacea and sensitive skin. The soothing cold therapy provides immediate comfort and relief from overexposure to the sun or wind.

It helps to reduce swelling, redness, and irritation due to allergy or sinus issues. It also helps to relieve puffiness around the eyes, discomfort from headaches and is a relaxing, therapeutic facial service,” says manager Lindsay Eberhart.

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skin | ice+fire

FIRE Hot Stone Facials

Solomon says their Hot Stone Facial (60 minutes, $95) is especially popular with their male clients.

“They love this facial. Products have a tougher time penetrating the skin in the beard area, even if clean-shaven. The hot stones provide a great sensation, as well as allowing the products to disperse evenly and reach a deeper layer of skin. It also assists those men who suffer from folliculitis barbae (razor bumps). While it doesn’t prevent them, it can greatly help in opening the follicles for easier removal during the facial.

And of course, it is very relaxing,” says Solomon.

“In contrast to the cold stone therapies, which help to calm the skin and reduce inflammation, hot stone facials are stimulating to blood vessels. They can be great for people with sluggish skin—which can be caused by things like aging, stress, lack of sleep. The hot stones help eliminate toxins and brighten skin,” says Solomon.

During this facial, warm oiled stones are used to massage the skin. The warmth of the stones helps to ease muscle stiffness and sinus pressure. It also increases blood circulation and metabolism, which assists in the detox process to reduce puffiness and redness. The stones help to open the pores, which allow for greater product penetration and therefore greater results.

COMBINED Hand & Stone Massage and Facial Spa, which has various locations around the country, has seen an increase in the demand for their version of combined “fire and ice” combo with their Cold Stone Facial Massage, which uses a hot towel as the fire and chilled stones for the cold. “The popularity for using stones, hot or cold, in treatments is on the rise and this is a key reason why we have centered our model around this,” says Doug Elman, Director of Massage Therapist Training for Hand & Stone Massage and Facial Spa. The Cold Stone Face Massage is 25 minutes and $39.95 for guests and $29.95 for members. The mini cold stone face massage add-on is $15. The prices can vary by location.

“Hot Towel/Cold Stone Face Massage helps stimulate circulation and reduce inflammation.

This is achieved by first applying a hot towel infused with pure essential lavender oil to the face, then performing a series of specific

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

massage techniques to the face. Specially designed and shaped cold marble stones are then used on the face to produce a very invigorating, yet soothing feeling. These white marble stones have been cut and polished to various shapes and sizes designed to work specific areas,” says Elman.

Cathy Hill, owner of Vitalia MedSpa in Falls Church, Va., says the key to their Fire & Ice Facial (60 minutes, $150) is a two-part masque treatment. “The heat of the facial is generated by causing a light peel action of the first masque application. This is an exfoliation process, which will allow the skin to gain smoothness and even texture. The icy part is the second masque and has a cooling minty freshness to it, which hydrates the skin deeply and soothes nourishment back into the skin. Allowing the skin to have the best of both exfoliation and hydration the results are effective for noticeably tighter and more radiant skin,” she says. n

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BANISH BRIDEZILLA BLUES Behold the bridal service buffet!

by Diane Buccola

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P

lanning a wedding can be the most enjoyable experience in a woman’s life, but it can also be quite stressful. Although she may have planned for a pre-wedding facial, a bride-to-be may not realize that a stress-free mind radiates beauty from the inside out, and is essential to a happy and healthy wedding day. What could be a better place to recharge the bride’s batteries than the spa?

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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skin | banish bridezilla blues Offer brides a free 30-minute (or less) bridal consultation, wherein information can be collected on her current skin care goals, followed by an explanation of the spa’s bridal menu options, along with a plan for home care products and protocols. Having a plan in place is an immediate stressreducer for the bride.

Scheduling the package to begin three to four months pre-wedding is ideal for best results, but even 30 days is adequate to assess how the bride’s skin will respond to a facial. And always follow up with a gentle refresher facial one week prior to the big day to ensure a flawless canvas for her wedding day makeup.

THE BRIDAL GLOW

THE BRIDAL STRESS BUSTERS

Estheticians have many tools, products and treatments to lead clients to eventoned, unblemished and glowing skin.

However, when a bride-to-be schedules her pre-wedding facial too close to the date of her wedding, estheticians are limited to only the most superficial treatments so as not to create redness or irritation. For this reason, it is wise to begin promoting your bridal packages well before wedding season.

Spas can add the following stress-reducing services to their menu to help relax and refresh the bride so she is better able to enjoy the beautiful day that she has worked so hard to create.

A spa’s ability to offer these services is contingent on proper training of their staff.

AROMATHERAPY Essential oils have been used for thousands of years because of their natural healing powers and soothing scents. Rich in botanical activity and antioxidants, plant oils encourage radiant, healthy skin by working at a cellular level to keep the complexion looking smooth and youthful. And because our sense of smell is linked directly to the areas of the brain that drive emotions, memory and instinct, aromatherapy also works to improve one’s physical, mental and emotional well-being.

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skin | banish bridezilla blues

Acupressure Acupressure is an ancient healing art which uses the fingers to gradually press key healing points, thereby stimulating the body’s natural self-curative abilities. Using the power and sensitivity of the hand, acupressure is highly effective for the relief of stress-related symptoms and can help release tension, improve metabolism and stimulate blood circulation in the skin, all of which will result in a healthy bridal glow.

Gua Sha Gua Sha is a Chinese medical therapy that employs a tool consisting of two flat jade stones that are used simultaneously by the practitioner. The Gua Sha technique begins with the application of product appropriate for the client’s skin; then with gentle but firm pressure, the stones are pulled in an upward stroking motion from chin to forehead and onto the scalp.

Esthetician Trecy Marr of Trinity Esthetics-Skin Care Boutique in Portola Calif., suggests using the jade stones in place of hands during the massage portion of a facial. “The jade stones have a calming and soothing effect and will bring about a higher level of relaxation, while increasing healthy blood flow to the skin,” says Marr. The Gua Sha technique may also be incorporated into a full body service.

Using the power and sensitivity of the hand, acupressure is highly effective for the relief of stress-related symptoms and can help release tension

Reiki REI = Higher power KI = Life force energy Reiki is a very safe, gentle, and nonintrusive hands-on healing modality, and one of the few healing arts that works to balance the entire person on a physical, mental, emotional and spiritual level. The Reiki practitioner places his or her hands above the client’s major Chakra centers, beginning at the head and working down to the feet of the client.

Esthetician and Reiki Master teacher Linda Bertaut of Concord, Calif., suggests adding 20 to 30 minutes of Reiki to a facial to quiet the mind and calm the emotions to bring about a sense of peace and balance. “Reiki

helps to calm stress and anxiety and clears the path for the bride to enjoy the wedding experience with a clearer mind and groundedness,” says Bertaut.

Ayurveda AYUR = life VEDA = science or knowledge This therapy is one of the world’s oldest holistic healing systems and can be a very effective method to help reduce the over-burdened bride’s fatigue, as well as to dispel stress, relieve tension and increase vitality and clarity of thought.

Ayurveda head massage is a deeply relaxing and healing form of massage. Oil is slowly massaged into the

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skin | banish bridezilla blues

Science + Vision

The Power Nap

head, starting from the sides of the head and up to the scalp. The practitioner uses his or her thumbs and fingers to skillfully manipulate the pressure points on the head, face, neck and shoulders.

This technique is received in a seated position and can be performed over the clothes using no product, if preferred. Every Ayurvedic massage is unique based upon the combination of oils and massage techniques chosen to best suit the client.

Reflexology In simple terms, foot reflexology is based upon the principle that the foot is like a chart of the body divided into specific reflex zones, with different parts of the foot corresponding to various May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Another new concept on the spa wellness scene is sleep! Relaxation is not automatically programmed into Western culture as it is in some other parts of the world, so more and more people are seeking a safe haven to catch some shut-eye.

Incorporating sleep wellness into your spa menu can be as simple as providing a comfortable sleep atmosphere during the masque portion of a facial, or offering an individual session with a leather recliner, sleep-inducing music, a cashmere blanket and dimmed lighting.

“More clients are talking about it and more spas are offering treatments,” says Susie Ellis, president of Spafinder Wellness 365. “We are starting to see some spas doing sleep medicine or sleep education programs, while others are creating sleep environments with enhanced bedding and wakeup systems that don’t involve loud alarm clocks.”

1969, James E. Fulton, M.D., Ph.D., the brilliant researcher, cosmetic surgeon and dermatologist, co-developed Vitamin A acid later known as Retin A®, forever changing skin care. His formulations for Vivant deliver healthier, more radiant skin.

Two Revolutionary Ingredients Vivant’s internationally recognized and patented Vitamin A Skin Conditioners are delivered deep into the skin’s surface to help stimulate new collagen production.

Vivant’s renowned formulation of Mandelic Acid 3-in-1 Serums treat problem skin without the irritation and post-hyperpigmentation of glycolics and benzoyl peroxides.

www.VivantSkinCare.com 1-800-9-VIVANT Acne • Anti-aging Hyperpigmentation Intimate Bleaching

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organs in the body. Specific pressure points are massaged to encourage a balancing response and to promote an overall feeling of wellness. It works both on a physical and emotional level, because if the body is relaxed, the mind will follow.

From pre-wedding jitters to tired post-wedding tootsies, foot reflexology can be deeply relaxing and refreshing for overworked brides. Giving these extremities some love will pay off in blissful relief and help lift the bride’s spirits.

Scientifically advanced treatments for skin of all hues

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skin | banish bridezilla blues

De-stressing Eye Treatment Exhausted brides may rely on sugar and caffeine as an energy boost, which can lead to disrupted sleeping patterns. This condition often shows itself in the eyes by way of puffiness and dark circles. There are many remedies that can easily be integrated into a facial such as lymphatic drainage massage, which helps disperse fluid that has accumulated in the skin around the eyes.

Or it can be something as simple as placing tea bags over the eyes, which

have been dipped in water, squeezed gently to prevent dripping, and then chilled. The chill will reduce inflammation, resulting in fresher looking, rested eyes.

Music and Meditation Because in-ear headphones (also known as “earbuds”) are small enough so as not to interfere with the facial process, they can be offered during the masque portion so that the weary bride can completely relax to soothing music or meditations.

During a power nap, noise-cancelling headphones can be beneficial, as it will hasten the bride’s descent into sleep mode. Using a bit of electronic wizardry, the headphones capture the sounds in the vicinity and create inverse sound waves that cancel out any unwanted noise.

Incorporating sleep wellness into your spa menu can be as simple as providing a comfortable sleep atmosphere

Any of the above-mentioned modalities can be included in your spa menu as an à la carte service, or offered as an addon or upgrade. Here is an example of how you can integrate stress-reducing elements into a facial, step by step:

1: Incorporate into cleanse: • Acupressure

2: After exfoliation, provide the bride with small

ear buds so she can listen to: • Soothing music

• Calming meditations

At the end of the facial, prepare a written home care protocol for her, along with a customized, beautifully packaged sample kit. It’s also a nice touch to include a small chocolate heart, along with your business card or a hand-written note expressing your best wishes for her wedding. She’ll never forget you, and she will tell all her friends about her experience! n

3: Incorporate into eye treatment: • Lymphatic drainage massage

• Application of chilled tea bags

4: Incorporate into massage: • Essential oils/aromatherapy • Ayurvedic head massage

• Gua Sha • Shoulder massage

5: Incorporate during mask: • Power nap • Reflexology

• Relaxing scalp massage • Reiki

Diane Buccola has been a licensed esthetician in California since 1998, and is the owner of SpaBizBoard.com, a popular message board and learning tool for the spa industry. Buccola serves on the Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa advisory board, and has authored two books, including Estheticians Are a Girl’s Best Friend and The Heart of Esthetics: Creating Loyal Clients and Achieving Financial Success.

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May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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HIS HER AGING

AND

CONCERNS

THE TRUTH BEHIND MANOPAUSE AND MENOPAUSE by

Tina Zillmann

F

or both men and women, aging is inevitable. Both genders suffer from hormonal changes that affect their mind, body and skin as they age. So how can skin care providers educate their clients about normal changes in the body and help slow the course of aging?

THE AGING PROCESS Aging is a progressive process that doesn’t happen overnight. Changes in estrogen and androgens play an integral role in skin aging, and also contribute to structural changes of muscle fibers and bone density over time. Men and women both experience hyperpigmentation, laxity, lines, and wrinkles that may be improved with a combination of noninvasive or minimally invasive esthetic procedures. For skin care professionals, optimal client care is achieved with a balance of both medical and esthetic intervention.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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skin | his and her aging concerns

HIS AGING CONCERNS When it comes to aging and weight gain, many women grumble that men have it easy.

However men are indeed affected—it simply takes longer for them to experience the changes. A man’s transition time from virility into andropause (also known as “manopause”) can start as early as his 40s, and he may experience significant changes over a period as long as 30 years! During the gradual decline in male hormones, the onset of andropause is characterized by mood changes, erectile dysfunction, reduction of muscle mass and increase of visceral fat, decrease in bone density, and less body hair.

A man’s transition time from virility into andropause can start as early as his 40s.

Not all men may experience the same combination of symptoms. As he begins undergoing mental, emotional, and physical changes, the look of his skin changes. Androgens affect the sebaceous glands, hair growth, wound healing, and overall epidermal barrier health and function.

SUN DAMAGE Chronic sun exposure is a leading cause of age spots and mottled skin tone, and men are two times more likely than women to develop certain types of skin cancer1. Whether or not the increased skin cancer formation is a result of a lifetime of inadequate sun exposure or a gender trait has yet to be determined.

However, men and women both experience a 10 to 20 percent reduction of melanocytes per decade as they mature2, resulting in mottled/splotchy tanning and a combination of hyper and hypopigmentation. IPL photofacials improve skin tone and reduce the red and brown pigmentation associated with sun damage. Routine peeling services and/or microdermabrasion facial treatments help maintain

the results achieved from IPL and prevent further damage when followed by a protective skin care regimen at home.

LINES AND WRINKLES Changes in sebum production, decreased collagen density, and photodamage can all correspond to lines and wrinkles.

Emphasis needs to be placed on preventing further photodamage, and rebuilding the collagen and elastin network to help reduce the appearance of lines, wrinkles and folds. This is achieved with a beneficial combination of cosmeceutical skin care (including ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol, and amino peptides), annual laser resurfacing and routine esthetic treatments.

DRYNESS OR FLAKES Dry and flaking skin may not necessarily be the same concern.

A professional skin analysis can help pinpoint and resolve the problem. As one ages, sebum production decreases, resulting in dry skin and poor desquamation. A regimen that balances moisture, hydration and exfoliation may help

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skin | his and her aging concerns improve dry skin and barrier function. This is especially important for men who shave regularly, as any skin damage from shaving takes longer to repair. Use a healing moisturizer with hemp, green tea, vitamin C or retinyl palmitate in your treatments and recommended home care regimen for clients with dry skin.

Inversely, men with oily skin may also experience dry, flaky skin on the face. This is most likely seborrheic dermatitis, or “facial dandruff,” and not simply dry skin. It normally appears along creases of the face and/or facial hair regions.

Managing the oil production with a salicylic acid based regimen may help with very mild symptoms. Topical corticosteroids, tar, or zinc can also be beneficial for moderate cases. Severe cases should be referred to a dermatologist for medical intervention. In some instances, IPL photofacials are beneficial for this condition.

Although women are more likely than men to develop rosacea, the side effects are usually more severe when the condition occurs in men.

SENSITIVITY OR ROSACEA Skin sensitivities can develop at any age and may not be related to hormonal changes. Adhering to a simplistic regimen and avoiding any known triggers of sensitivity is important in maintaining healthy skin. Sensitivity paired with redness, acne, and/or thickening skin may be indicators of rosacea. Although women are more likely than men to develop rosacea, the side effects are usually more severe when the condition occurs in men. Management with prescription care and a beneficial skin care regimen can help keep the condition calm.

ACNE Men may suffer from an occasional breakout, but do not generally experience hormonal acne skin concerns like teens and women. However, certain prescriptions for mental health, tuberculosis, immunosuppressant drugs, and steroids have been known to cause acne in both men and women. In some cases, a full acne management system is necessary.

Inversely, some may only need spot treatment. For acne, it is essential to perform a thorough skin analysis and consultation to help determine the best home regimen and treatment plan for each client.

HER AGING CONCERNS A woman typically experiences menopause symptoms in her 40s or 50s, and she most likely endures mental, emotional, and physical symptoms simultaneously. Estrogen and progesterone are the primary hormones that affect a woman before, during, and after menopause. As her body changes, so does her skin. It begins to lose its radiance and shows signs of aging. Collagen and elastin synthesis slows, sebum changes result in dry skin and acne, and extrinsic causes of aging become more prevalent. Both esthetic and medical intervention may be necessary to help manage her symptoms.

DRY, AGING SKIN After menopause, women experience a dramatic reduction of collagen and elastin synthesis and epidermal thickness.

This contributes to dry skin, laxity, lines, wrinkles and folds.

As her body changes, so does her skin. It begins to lose its radiance and shows signs of aging.

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smooths tightens firms SmoothSculpt ® is an advanced aesthetic technology with a non-invasive approach to skin revitalization. Using pressure pulsing air and suction movements through a cupping wand, similar to ancient Chinese Chi Cupping, SmoothSculpt® reveals smoother, softer, tighter looking skin – noticeable results after only the first treatment.

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May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #304 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 27

skin | his and her aging concerns Hormone replacement therapy for menopausal symptoms is available, but does not guarantee an improvement in the skin. Skin care professionals can create a treatment plan and home regimen to help facilitate collagen synthesis, promote an even tone, hydrate, and smooth skin texture. Lasers and IPL technology improve skin tone, texture, and encourage collagen and elastin synthesis to help restore thickness to the dermal matrix, improve laxity, and reduce wrinkles.

Menopausal women have the opportunity to take years off the look of their face with these combined tools. However, it’s important to remember that an aging face is also determined by bone and muscle integrity. Medical esthetic injections help replenish lost volume and smooth muscles, or reduce the severity of expression lines.

ACNE You probably have a few aging female clients who take care of their skin and abide by a sound regimen, yet they suddenly develop acne.

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There is an increasing prevalence of this condition in women more than 40 years old, and it can be a challenge to treat.

Acne is an internal condition, primarily influenced by androgens, excess oil, and infection. Treating a menopausal woman with dry skin and acne with an acne regimen is a mistake. She does not have oily skin. Maintain a balancing regimen to help keep her skin hydrated and protected, and add an acne spot treatment. Using products formulated for acne can increase sensitivity, and overuse may sensitize her normal to dry skin.

ROSACEA A woman is more likely to develop rosacea and may suffer from redness, inflammation, and broken capillaries (telangiectasia) for the rest of her life.

Page 28 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

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May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #346 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 29

skin | his and her aging concerns Maintaining a gentle skin care regimen, avoiding inflammatory triggers, and prescription care are the best means to managing rosacea. Routine light peeling and/or ultrasonic facials promote healthy skin functions while IPL treatments, performed every three months, can provide beneficial results for rosacea sufferers. IPL phototherapy is also beneficial for reducing brown and red pigmented lesions.

Men and women have very similar concerns with their aging skin. Although a man’s skin is thicker, oilier, and may seem more resilient, he is not immune to hormonal aging concerns—it just takes longer. After menopause, on the other hand, a woman may feel as though she’s aged overnight. Hormonal changes and the aging process may not currently be stopped or reverted to their youthful vigor, but, as skin care professionals, we can help every man and woman achieve their best look and improve the health of their skin. n

1. Cancer Treatment Centers of America, “Skin Cancer Risk Factors.” http://www.cancercenter.com/skin-cancer/risk-factors/ 2. R.A. Norman, E.M. Young, Jr (2014). “Atlas of Geriatric Dermatology,” Springer-Verlag, London: 3. DOI 10.1007/978-1-4579-0_1

Tina Zillmann is a practicing esthetician and licensed hair removal professional with expertise on innovative esthetic treatments and post-surgical care. She is vice president and director of Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc. and Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Zillman was a recipient of the Female Entrepreneur of the Year award through the National Association of Women Business Owners. She served as the president of the Aesthetic International Association from 2009-2010, and was an advisory board member for the American Electrology Association.

COMING NEXT MONTH IN LNE & SPA

Discover the science behind body wraps, the best and latest ingredients to use, and everything you need to apply and master the different techniques—all broken down in a clear to follow guide that’ll keep you “wrapped up” with clients.

Page 30 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #286 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 31

hydrates and lifts Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare presents HydraLift Firming Gel Mask, an at home treatment that firms and hydrates to reveal a youthful glow, says the company.

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potent blend DermaTRUTH’s Antioxidant Peptide Serum is a potent blend of 18 peptides and antioxidants that protect against oxidative and glycation damage, says the company. The serum features two forms of vitamin C, ergothioneine, glutathione, peptides, fruit extracts and marine based ingredients.

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LightStim introduces its “perfect pairing” for their LightStim device, the LightStim PhotoMasque, says the company. The PhotoMasque is designed to enhance the efficacy of the LightStim LED devices and is packed with photosomes (plankton extract), hyaluronic acid, and pentavitin. The product promotes skin’s ability to repair DNA damage, hydrates and fights free radicals damage.

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YOUNGER looking Revision Skincare introduces its latest D.E.J face cream. Formulated with high quality extracts, peptides and antioxidants, the face cream (which targets the Dermal Epidermal Junction) addresses the signs of aging by helping to firm, brighten and smooth skin.

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Page 32 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

Adding makeup is an easy way to increase your revenue!

Photo by Jean Louis David

We cover everything you need to build a successful and profitable makeup business from the ground up.

MAKEUP GUIDE

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 33

MAKEUP guide

MAKEUP A NEW REVENUE STREAM

by Dori Soukup

An 11-Step Successful Plan for your Makeup Business.

Do you have a spa, a medi spa, or spa salon and are debating whether to introduce makeup into your business?

Makeup can be a very profitable revenue stream when it’s positioned and marketed properly.

Ensure your success by implementing the following 11-step Makeup Plan.

1

Choose a Visible Location Within Your Spa For Your Makeup

First, you need to determine if you have an ideal location within your business to offer makeup. You will need to feature your makeup in an accessible and

well-lit area with a proper display, a makeup mirror, and a makeup chair. It should be clean, attractive, organized, and inviting for your clients to experience, enticing them to try the makeup and buy it.

2

Choosing your Makeup Brand

With many brands to choose from, there are several key factors you need to take into consideration when selecting your makeup line. While quality is the number one factor, price point, training from the vendor, availability within your area, ordering criteria, shipping, return guidelines, reordering minimums, promotions, samples, event participation, event contribu-

tions and more must also be assessed when choosing your brand. You want to select a partner who will support you and help you.

3

Selecting Your Makeup Artist

Another key planning step is selecting the right person to perform applications and sell your makeup. Who will that be? Is it someone you currently have on your team or do you have to recruit and hire the person? This person must be able to perform all types of makeup treatments to generate a sizable amount of revenue. Your makeup menu must include: Teen Lessons, Weddings, Seasonal Update, Makeover, Special Occasion, and Express Touch-Up.

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4

Launching your Makeup

5

Selling Strategies

To be successful with your makeup business, you need a selling strategy. One of the easiest ways to sell your makeup is to offer a complimentary mini makeup application after each facial and/or massage. This practice will put your guests in the makeup chair. Once they are there you can promote your makeup menu and products, leading to mega sales.

6

Potential Revenue

The question I am often asked is how much revenue can be generated from a makeup business.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

7

Sampling the Makeup

Create a “Discovery Makeup Station” so your clients can sample it. Department stores sell billions of dollars annually because they allow women to test products. You must do the same. Get the rest of the team to cross-market to help build your makeup clientele.

8

Team Makeup Training

Training the team is essential to your success. There are several schools that can help train your team to improve their makeup skills and learn about the latest colors and trends. It’s worth the investment if you are serious about your makeup business.

9

Business Tools to Sell Products

Use a “Guest Discovery Form” to learn about the client’s needs. It helps achieve the results your clients are looking for. It should be used by makeup artists to discuss your client’s needs and serve as a communication tool leading to recommendations.

The other essential tool is a “Face Chart” to be used as a closing tool.

You can show the client all the colors and products you just used on them, or the colors you are recommending.

It helps close the sale by having them see all the products and the price total so they commit to the new look.

10

Compensating the Makeup Artist and Team

It’s always wise to set up a performance-based compensation model.

Set performance targets you’d like to reach and base a compensation plan on the level of the target they reach.

The more revenue they generate, the more income they can earn. The less they generate, the less you will pay them.

11

Measuring Results

Always measure performance. Keep coaching the team until they reach the level of performance you are striving for!

Makeup can truly be a great revenue source for your business, but you need to give it the attention it deserves.

I encourage you to implement this plan to ensure your success. n

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, a u t h o r, p r o f e s sional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits.

She can be reached at: info@insparationmanagement.com.

lneonline.com • Page 35

MAKEUP guide

To properly launch your makeup, you will need to create effective marketing materials. Your marketing plan should include a menu, postcards, posters, email announcements, events, buttons for the team to wear, website updates, press releases, social media, and more.

By properly launching your makeup business, you will show your clients that you are serious about providing them with great products and experiences to help them look more beautiful.

The answer depends on how much traffic is going through your spa, medi spa or salon. The best way to measure success is by coming up with an average volume per guest that you wish to reach. Take the number of guests that visit your spa and assume that even if each person buys only one item, a lipstick, a concealer, or an eyeliner… how much revenue that’ll mean to your retail operation. Then, calculate how many makeup treatment applications you’ll be able to sell from the makeup menu.

Don’t forget about all the tools your clients will also need: brushes, sponges, cleansers, eye makeup remover, and so on… Sales can be exponential when targets are established and the person who is in charge of this department is not afraid of recommending and selling.

Choosing

the Best Makeup Line

for Your Spa

By Mary Turner When it comes to choosing a makeup line for your spa, the mere variety available can create a challenge. There are so many brands, formulas and features to choose from that it can be overwhelming to decide on just one or a few makeup lines when you implement a makeup business in your facility.

However, addressing the following questions can greatly simplify your decision as you choose the perfect makeup line for your spa:

1. Is a brand’s image and concept consistent with the “personality” of your establishment and your clientele demographics?

To answer this question, you must look at numerous factors:

A) Packaging If your spa caters to a youthful clientele, you may want to choose a line

with packaging that is colorful and funky. If your spa is upscale and chic, it may make sense to select a more conservative option, with sleek, elegant packaging.

b) Ingredients If your spa is known for being ecofriendly and all natural, adopt a brand that has a botanically based formula and is free of any controversial ingredients. If you have a large number of

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realistic price range for your client base so you can offer makeup services that are profitable for you and affordable for them at the same time. If your spa is a high-end establishment, your clients will expect (and be able to afford) the higher cost for treatments and retail that come with a more expensive line.

After considering all of the factors above, make sure you offer enough versatility in your selection to meet the needs of all of your clientele, which may require multiple makeup lines.

2. What are people saying about the line?

clients with a specific concern, such as anti-aging or acne, ensure that the line you adopt features ingredients that are compatible with that issue.

c) Style If your spa caters to a trend-setting, youthful client base, a makeup line with plenty of bold colors for daring looks may be a good fit. If you have a more mature client base, a makeup line centered on traditional, subdued colors may be more appropriate.

d) Pricing Is the line affordable for your business and your clientele? If your spa caters to younger clients or is set up as an affordable alternative to costlier high-end spas, it’s crucial to adopt a line with a

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Also check the consumer testimonials on the brand’s website. While they may tend to showcase only the positive reviews, that can still provide you with valuable insight.

3. Does the company market itself effectively?

It’s ideal to adopt a brand with a strong reputation. First, check out the press room page of their website, which immediately shows you how much the line is mentioned and in which media outlets.

Equally relevant is the social media presence. What platforms is the company active on, and who engages with them on these sites? You can help determine if a line is right for you based on the types of interactions you see on their social media. Ideally, both professionals and clients should be participating.

The quality and convenience of education is important to the ease and success of introducing makeup into your spa offerings. It’s crucial that any new line you adopt offers comprehensive, efficient training for you and your staff.

When you purchase the line, does the company send a trainer to your location for your convenience? Or do they provide digital education that can be accessed at any time? If a company only offers training at their own facility that requires you and your staff to take the time and effort to travel to their location, you may want to reconsider whether it’s worth the hassle.

5. What are the logistics?

The final step in narrowing down your makeup line selection is analyzing the finer points. For instance, is there a rewards program? Does the company allow you to sample the line for yourself before buying? Do they provide customer samples for your clients, and if so at what cost? What are the minimum order and reorder amounts?

Once you’ve gathered the answers to all of these key questions, you should have a solid idea of which makeup lines are the best fit for your spa. Do your research, ask questions and be prepared to profit! n Mary Turner is a day spa and salon owner, author, educator and owner of Mary Turner Beauty Group. For more information visit maryturnerbeauty.com or contact Turner at: maryturnersales@gmail.com.

lneonline.com • Page 37

MAKEUP guide

After identifying makeup lines that are consistent with your business’ needs, the next step is verifying their reputation. The best place to get this information is through their existing partners.

Reach out to spas that carry the line and ask them to share the pros and cons.

4. Is adequate education and training provided?

MAKEUP guide

MAKEUP

Retail Design

by Sam Margulies

Retail is an important part of spa business, and one of its components (and an important one) is makeup sales.

When you design a retail space, you have to keep in mind that there are different types of retail products, and each category must be located, placed and presented to support and stimulate sales.

Destination buy Some retail products are more of a “destination buy,” meaning clients come to your spa because they want to buy the product.

Circumstance buy

Makeup station

Some other retail products are more of a “circumstance buy,” that is the client chooses to make the buy because they are on site.

The most successful design for makeup in spa boutiques is to create a makeup station-like showcase, where clients can try the products as if they were at home but with better conditions.

Impulse buy And then, there is the “impulse buy;” the client doesn’t really need it, didn’t think of it, but sees it and wants it now.

The very interesting thing about makeup is that it is a retail type of product that’s destination, circumstance and impulse based buy.

Dedicate a space in your boutique where clients can sit (better than home!) in front of a very well lit mirror. This might be the only place in your entire spa where you will use a silver lined mirror, as you want the client to be able to see every imperfection of their skin being well covered with the makeup products you sell.

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divide your makeup products into two categories:

Silver versus gold

Balance Now don’t forget that the ultimate goal isn’t to provide the best makeup station, but to sell products. So you want to balance the focus between the set up of the makeup station itself, and the product display surrounding the station.

Design If you design the station countertop at table height, the client has to sit down, an active body movement that implies “having time” and committing to buy at a too early stage in the process.

If the countertop is at bar level, the client will more easily look at their image in the mirror and grab a tester to try, and get themselves involved in the buying process. Also, when the

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

countertop of the makeup station is at bar level, you can have a high stool or chair where the client can sit and have a professional makeup artist demonstrating to stimulate the buying process.

Location Another important aspect is to locate the makeup station close to the reception/check-out desk. As many items in a makeup products line are small, it’s important that the receptionist can keep a close eye on products to avoid their “disappearance.”

The best way to place the retail makeup products will be on both sides of the makeup station. Because products placed below the level of the station countertop won’t be acknowledged by buyers, you want to place all makeup products from the height of the countertop up to just above eye level.

Perceived value What matters the most in the buying process is the “perceived value” of the product. When you see products packed on a shelf (as if the entire inventory were there) the perceived value is low. If there are just a few units of each product and some space between products, the perceived value rises significantly.

2 Destination and circumstance buy products (all other products with higher value) Where to place them: On the shelves on the sides of the station.

Because the prices of these products are higher, you showcase their value by leaving some space between each product and limiting it to a few units. By increasing the perceived value of these products, you also increase the acceptable price tag in the client’s mind.

Retail sales are the bread and butter of the spa. By using the right design techniques, stop the “cover-up” of the spa revenues, “make up” the bottom line! n

Sam Margulies is a French designer based in Canada with more than 15 years of involvement in the conception and design of hundreds of spas around the world. A frequent speaker at trade shows and publish author, Margulies develops training seminars for spas and skin care product companies focusing on increasing retail sales. Visit atmospherespadesign.com.

lneonline.com • Page 39

MAKEUP guide

There are two kinds of mirrors: the silver and the gold lined ones. The gold lined mirror gives a glow to the face and doesn’t reflect bluntly all the imperfections of skin. You always want clients to see themselves as gorgeous when looking in a mirror. However, when it comes to the makeup station, to increase the products sales, it’s the only place in the spa where you want a silver lined mirror for a reality check!

1 Impulse buy products (lipsticks, eyeliners, nail polishes—small size products with lower price tags) Where to place them: You want to make the perceived value low enough so that the client’s impression is that the “feel good” effect of acquiring the product is much higher than its cost.

The best location for these products is beside or on the countertop of the makeup station, as well as beside or on the check-out desk where clients open their wallet and pull out their money or credit card.

MAKEUP guide

THE MAKING OF A MAKEUP MENU

By Amanda Clinton Winter

After making the decision to offer makeup services at your spa, adopting a line and clearing the space for a makeup business, your next step is creating a makeup menu that sells your new services! The following tips can help you simplify and break down the process to creating a successful makeup menu.

Page 40 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

1. Make it noticeable In order to sell your makeup services, your clients must be aware they exist.

It’s essential that every client who visits your website or reviews your print or in-store menu sees your makeup services as easily as they do your other spa offerings. “On our website, makeup is listed as part of our services listed, next to massage, facials, waxing, etc. with a link for additional details,” says Christie Lavigne, director of skincare at Oasis Day Spas in Westchester and New York City, N.Y.

2. Create clear titles and descriptions

3. Distinguish bridal services A woman’s wedding day is easily one of the biggest events of her life, captured by photographs that last a lifetime. Many women seek out makeup services specifically designed for wedding prep when they are looking for a spa or makeup artist for this occasion.

Thus, it is crucial to dedicate a section of your makeup menu services to brides and their wedding parties. Here, make sure to include popular wedding day upgrade options such as airbrush makeup, “on location” service at the big event and wedding party packages for the entourage.

4. Lose track of time While service duration is commonly included in treatment descriptions on spa menus, it’s best to eliminate this component for your makeup service listings if possible. A makeup application is an artistic process, and achiev-

ing the desired look takes a different amount of time for each session and client. As Lavigne explains about the makeup services at Oasis, “Finding perfection takes time, so we do not lock into time frames.”

5. Include value options for first-timers Just as with any service, offering introductory specials on your menu can be a great marketing tool to get clients hooked. If your clients are somewhat interested in the makeup services at the spa but don’t quite see them as a necessity, they’ll probably be much more likely to give them a try if they can do so at a bargain the first time.

“We have run specials at the spa as add-ons for a discount and this seems to work well,” Lavigne shares. n

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

Out the Door Glam ($75): A quick and efficient sprucing up of the face after spa treatments. Includes light concealing as well as basic feature enhancing.

Clean Beauty ($175): Makeup done to brighten up the face.

The application perfects and enhances natural features while remaining clean and simple.

Daytime Glam ($200): An application best for daytime events due to the lighter eye makeup, with opportunity for a brighter lip.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 41

MAKEUP guide

The titles and descriptions for your makeup services should be brief and straightforward. When a client reads it, they should be able to quickly determine exactly what each service entails and whether it meets their objective and budget. “A menu can quickly get bogged down if you have too many details in it; it’s better to keep it simple and clean and go for an overall feeling rather than too many specifics,” says Lavigne. Consider the following clear, concise titles and descriptions on the makeup menu from Oasis Day Spa as an example:

Evening Glam ($225): Evening attire application done to enhance features in low lighting. Extensive detail on the eyes for a more sultry appearance.

MAKEUP guide

How to Train Your Staff to Sell Makeup

The majority of your female guests come into the treatment room wearing makeup. Logically, it’s fair to conclude that they also purchase makeup, right? So why shouldn’t they be buying their makeup from you?

Selling makeup, like any other retail, involves an investment in training.

If you decide to offer it at your spa, it’s important to ensure that your team embraces the concept and understands how to promote it to guests. If your team doesn’t understand how to apply or sell it, you can be sitting on excess inventory instead of dollars.

By Trena Ross

1. Get education from the makeup line The first step starts with the brand.

Your chosen makeup brand partner(s) should conduct the training on the makeup line you carry. They can provide the best representation of the line, along with quick tips and tricks that would be useful for your team.

The partner training should cover the following aspects: a. How to incorporate selling makeup into one’s specific role (esthetician, massage therapist, nail technician, etc.).

The educator must recognize different skill sets among team members and provide a customized training so that all team members feel confident about application and sales strategy.

b. Theory and practice of color matching. Each staff member should be competent at selecting the appropriate colors and correct foundation for each guest. c. Correct use of application tools.

2. Establish a makeup sales protocol for your staff Whether your staff offers makeup in the treatment room immediately following each service or escorts clients to a separate makeup bar post treatment, make it clear to your team that they each are responsible for encouraging their guests to try the makeup.

Staff tactics will vary depending on the type of service they are providing.

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commission on all retail sales. Spas can also work with their makeup brand to run contests for the team, where the winner who sells the most is rewarded with free makeup.

4. Ongoing training Like any other skill, there should be periodic follow-up trainings for your staff on how to sell makeup. It’s important to refresh your staff on your spa’s makeup sale practices and expectations and educate your team about any new products or concepts in the makeup line. Training on both the brand and your own spa’s makeup sales protocol should be held at least twice a year.

When a new staff member is hired, arrange for them to take a training session with your makeup brand. If the company cannot come onsite to train your staff right away, there may be an offsite training session the employee can attend. If not, find out if your brand offers webinars or has video tutorials that can be used as an alternative.

Within your spa, identify a member of your team who has been successful in selling the makeup, and put them in charge of mentoring new employees.

boards for the line. It can also prompt fun communication with the guest. Of course, in order for this to work favorably, the makeup must truly flatter each staff member.

With the right training, your team should be able to pick the most appropriate makeup for themselves that is both beautifying and professional.

During the initial training session, have the educator use your staff as models, and offer color choices from the line that they feel most suits each of them.

When you first adopt a new line, allow for plenty of experimentation with your staff, and make alternative suggestions when you feel that a particular look is not suitable for them.

The bottom line is this: If your team is well educated and excited about the makeup, it becomes contagious within the spa environment and guests naturally get interested. This in turn translates into increased sales and a thriving makeup business! n

Trena Ross is the spa director for L’Institut Sothys New York. For more information visit sothyspa.com

5. Wear the makeup Wearing the makeup your spa is selling helps the team become familiar and comfortable with the makeup line itself, and turns your staff into walking bill-

3. Incentivize your staff Once you have a selling strategy in place, it’s crucial to incentivize your staff to push makeup sales in order to keep them motivated. If they are expected to sell makeup just as they are any other type of retail, they must also be rewarded in the same way as they are for any other category of retail. A simple way to do this is through a set

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 43

MAKEUP guide

The following examples are easy ways to introduce makeup to guests without being pushy or overbearing.

Facials: Makeup should be presented as a natural extension of the facial treatment. Estheticians are removing some type of makeup in the cleansing process, providing the perfect opportunity to acknowledge the makeup line carried at the spa.

Explain how it enhances the results of the facial and offers additional protection from external aggressions.

Offer to apply makeup post-facial so the client doesn’t have to leave the spa barefaced. Clients with blemished skin in particular are sure to welcome an application of treatment concealer.

Eyebrow shaping: The application of the eyebrow pencil can be included in an eyebrow shaping service, and the technician can teach the guest how to apply and fill in their brows at home.

Massage: After a client has had their face pressed into a headrest during a massage, they are in dire need of a makeup redo. This is a great opening for the massage therapist to remove the guest’s now messed up makeup and introduce them to the spa’s makeup line with a quick application that offers a refreshing new look. To encourage them to sample a new color from your lineup, say something like, “We have a great new lipstick and it comes in the perfect shade for you. I would love to apply it for you.”

MAKEUP guide

MARKETING TECHNIQUES THAT SELL MAKEUP

by Alex Koo Murray

Page 44 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

the treatment your client just received.

As the makeup artist reveals to the client her “better” self, she succinctly explains her choice of products and shades, introduces her to makeup services on the menu—and how these could benefit her—then pulls the items just used from the retail area… and voilà! It’s a sale.

Offering quick enhancements to entice your clients to a full on makeup service (or an add-on, why not?) doesn’t have to stop with facials. Rather than letting your post facial wax client leave with reddish spots on her face, give her a complimentary spruce up as well.

Location… location

It’s about getting your clients to realize that a quality and effective skin care routine, to which you are central, must also include the right makeup and application. And for those clients who are not tempted by your makeup services on the menu, that means giving them a glimpse of the wonders that can be done right after their treatment, in just minutes and as a courtesy.

Courtesy treat Picture this: Your client’s facial just ended. Rather than letting her brave the “real world” without makeup (which she most likely will apply in her car before she leaves), get the makeup artist to step in. She’ll offer a quick makeup application, perhaps some foundation, mascara and lipstick that will enhance

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

All for one Train your whole staff to sell makeup.

Equip all estheticians with basic makeup and neutral colors that will fit most, so they can offer those complimentary touch ups. Get employees familiar with the products so they can talk about them with confidence—perhaps have them wear fun buttons promoting makeup to intrigue clients.

Exploit all tools You will need to rely on an array of techniques to get your marketing services just where you want them to be. If the usual marketing tools are a must—that is promoting your makeup services on your website, social media, via emails and through in-spa signage—a combination of other techniques will truly get your services the attention they deserve.

Marketing makeup should be fun and allow you to be quite creative. For instance, as you promote your services online through the website, social media, and even via blogs, you can entice your clients to pay you a visit by following trends through the seasons, offering trendy makeovers during fashion week, glamour looks during the holidays, and romantic styles during the wedding season. Keep your clients on edge through social media by posting the new looks your makeup artist creates and the latest products you have available at the spa.

In-house events Make it a party! Invite current and prospective clients for some pampering and treats at your spa. Many locales offer free events, where clients are treated to food, drinks, and complimentary makeup services. Treat your clients to makeovers, highlight your latest products and offer discounts on services (say if these are booked during the events) and slash off your prices on retail as well. Schedule these mini parties at a convenient time that will allow your guests to spread the word about their new look around town.

Donations It can never be said enough, giving away to charity can bring much in return to you and your business. Offer some makeover gift certificates, and watch as new clients walk through the door.

Getting just the right makeup applied just the right way can make all the difference. Get your female clientele hooked on your services and makeup lines and add to the benefits of the skin care treatments you are already providing. It’s a win-win. n

lneonline.com • Page 45

MAKEUP guide

Getting your makeup services—and ultimately your retail products—to sell might start with giving touch ups… for free!

Where your makeup station is matters.

Depending on the type of services you wish to promote, your makeup station might be better off in an area all your exiting clients will pass by, or in a secluded space for more privacy (see article on page 38).

Make it fun

ARTISTS’ ESSENTIALS 15.

10.

4.

7.

13.

8.

2.

14.

1.

11.

3.

5.

6.

16.

9.

12.

1.MATIS-PARIS

5.ROZGÉ

9. DEVINE

13. GUINOT

2. MISENCIL

6. MINERALOGIE

10. OSMOSIS COLOUR

14. VITAL ASSIST SKINCARE

• Réponse Teint myrdm.com

• Mascara Retro misencil.com

3.ACURE

• Lip Lush acureorganics.com

4. GLEAM

• Body Radiance • Radiant Dust gleambymelaniemills.com

• Lip Gloss rozge.com

• Concealer • Brow Powder mineralogie.com

7. FACES BEAUTIFUL • Brush-on Liquid Mineral Makeup Radiant Beige facesbeautiful.com

8. LIRA CLINICAL • BB Tint 30 liraclinical.com

• Lip Shimmers lookdevine.com

• CC Cream osmosisskincare.com

11. INSTITUT' DERMED • Mineral Makeup Setting Mist idermed.com

12. MISENCIL • Mascara Lux misencil.com

• Eye Make-up Remover guinotusa.com

• Tint Smart SPF 35 vitalassist.com

15. JANSSEN COSMETICS • Long Lasting Make Up janssen-cosmetics.com

16. ULTRA-PURE MINERAL COSMETICS • Flawless Finish Foundation ultrapurecosmetics.com

Page 46 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

The latest colors, trends, tools…

18.

20.

21.

23.

28.

26.

17.

19.

17. THE BRUSH GUARD • Cleaning Kit thebrushguard.com

18. MISENCIL • Duo Eyeliner misencil.com

19. MUNDIAL IMPALA • Mini Pinza mundialimpala.com

20. BLINC

• Black Lash Primer blincinc.com

22.

24.

21.LADY BURD • LL Cream - Ember ladyburd.com

22. NOVALASH • Candied Lashes novalash.com

23. HONEYBEE GARDENS • Truly Natural Lipstick • Pressed Mineral Eye Shadow honeybeegardens.com

25.

29.

27.

25. EVE PEARL

28. REPÊCHAGE

26. LADY BURD

29. CIRCADIA

• Invisible Finish Powderless Powder evepearl.com

• Blush Perfect Super Fuchsia ladyburd.com

• Natural Finish Pressed Powder • Conditioning Lip Gloss repechage.com

• Vitamin Veil Cleanser myrdm.com

27. JANE IREDALE • Getaway Eye Shadow Kit janeiredale.com

24. PREVISE SKINCARE • Nutrify Liposomal Tonic 1- 6 previsecare.com

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 47

… foundations, eye shadows, lipsticks and more…

16.

2.

6.

7.

9.

10.

11.

13.

3.

1.

5.

4.

12.

8.

14.

15.

1. SOTHYS • Rouge Doux • Bronzing Powder sothys-usa.com

2. COOLA

• Makeup Setting Spray coolasuncare.com

3. SKINN

• Flushed Shade & Blush Collection skinn.com

4. HYDROPEPTIDE • Perfecting Gloss hydropeptide.com

5. KATHERINE COSMETICS

• K-Sport "Wow" Stick SPF 20 katherinecosmetics.com

6. ILIKE

• Herbal Clay Spot Treatment szepelet.com

7. CILSFRANCE

• Colored Rainbow Eyelash Extensions cilsfrance.net

8. MIRABELLA • Lash Luxe • Rose Blush mirabellabeauty.com

9. LA BELLA DONNA • Minerals "on-the-go" labelladonna.com

10. ACADÉMIE SCIENTIFIQUE DE BEAUTÉ • Regenerating Treatment Foundation Cinnamon myrdm.com

11. VITELLE LABORATORIES

• Eco-Pro Collection Hydrasheer Liquid vitellelab.com/ecopro/

12. SOUTH SEAS • Matte Bronzer Island Tan southseasskincare.com

13. KTO KELLY TEEGARDEN ORGANICS • Lipgloss Sophia kellyteegardenorganics.com

14. ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE

• Organic Kiss Lip Gloss Spice Kiss • Caramel Latte Tinted Moisturizer SPF 25 • SPF 30 Organic Sun Defense eminenceorganics.com

15. SYNERGIE MINERALS • Magnifeye Eyeliners skinelegance.com

16. TWEEZERMAN • Brush Collection tweezerman.com

Page 48 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

… to add to your makeup station!

18.

29.

22.

27. 28.

24.

31.

26.

19.

21.

25.

32.

23.

17.

20.

30.

17. LADY BURD

21. 100% PURE

18. SOBE TATTS

22. PHYTOMER

• Dual Makeup Remover ladyburd.com

• Southwest Ruby sobetatts.com

19. SYNERGIE MINERALS • • BB-Flawless skinelegance.com

20. MENAJI SKINCARE

• Fruit Pigmented Blush 100percentpure.com

• CC Crème lespausa.com

23. GRANDELIPS • Collagen Boosting Plumper grandelashmd.com

24. BELLA LASH • Mink Lashes bellalashextentions.com

• Camo • Anti-Shine Powder menaji.com

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

25. SKINN

29. 100% PURE

26. LADY BURD

30. BLINC

27. REVITALASH

31. QOSMEDIX

• Plasma Fusion Nourishing Treatment Corrector skinn.com

• Lipstick - Burnt Amber ladyburd.com

• Hi-Def Tinted Brow Gel revitalash.com

28. GRANDEHEAT • Heated Eyelash Curler grandelashmd.com

• 100% Pure Fruit Pigmented Ultra Lengthening Black Tea Mascara 100percentpure.com

• Shadow Fusion blincinc.com

• 8 Piece eQo-Friendly Brush Set with Roll & Tie Pouch qosmedix.com

32. GRANDEBLING • Eyelash Curler grandelashmd.com

lneonline.com • Page 49

“The congress was once again filled with attendees eager to learn and buy.

Can’t wait to come again next year.”

-Michael Q. Pugliese, CEO of Circadia

Spunky

South Beach!

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Miami, Fla. 2015

by Nathalie Gouillou

C

olorful confetti and serpentines fell off the ceiling as the Black Eyed Peas’ “Tonight is Going to Be a Good Night” played loudly. Hands

raised in the air and waved frantically to the pulsating tune of the song, the crowd cheering with enthusiasm as the exhilaration of the packed room spread to all around.

Page 50 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

1

2

3

4

5

6

“Who wants a shoulder massage?”

Shouted Boldijarre Koronczay before walking off the Main Stage Conference to mingle with attendees.

Exciting, energetic and powerful—that’s how The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa kicked off its very first show of the season (and set up the tone for the rest of the year) in Miami Beach, Fla., on March 1 and 2.

“It was great to be back in fabulous South Beach!” said Michael Q. Pugliese, CEO of Circadia. “The congress was once again filled with attendees eager to learn and buy. Can’t wait to come again next year.”

Miami Beach lived up to its vibrant reputation and the congress—brought together

by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines—delivered an intense, dynamic and unique show, just like its host city. With thousands of attendees, and more than 300 exhibitors from the most cutting-edge technologies, laboratories, equipment and treatments, to the best in skin care, esthetics and cosmetology, every area of the spa world—including wellness, beauty and health—were covered. “[The Inter national Congress of Esthetics and Spa] has provided our largest sales amount yet and for an introduction to the Central and South American markets,” said Jindilli’s owner Morgan Roy. “[It] is well worth it.”

Aside from a floor packed with exhibitors, spirited demonstrations and lectures— and more than 50 product focused classes offered by exhibiting companies—the event featured six conferences, many of which were new, where leaders of the spa industry shared their expertise in business, marketing, retail, as well as the latest trends in wellness, medical spa, and image.

“I came here to see the eyebrow extension [Image Conference], I have never heard of that. I come here every year to extend my knowledge,” said Myriam Belmas, a solo licensed esthetician from Miami. Karina Chernyshoff,

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 51

7

a registered nurse and medical esthetician originally from New York, said she came to look at new products and learn from the medical spa conference.

The Spa Director Symposium—a private by invitation only lounge where heads of salons and spas get to be pampered as they network and share— also made a great comeback with a new twist.

“Thank you for a great event!” said Charlotte Prescott, spa director of the Biltmore Spa & Fitness at the Biltmore in Coral Gables, Fla. Regional Director of Spa Operations at Ocean Properties Maureen Vipperman, concurred. “Thank you for a wonderful experience,” she said, “I really

8

enjoyed [...] being a part of your event.”

This year, leaders got to enjoy by appointment only services courtesy of HydroPeptide, Balanced Guru, and Endo-Systems, and got to mingle while getting to try on additional

9

10

11

of Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare enlightened people with his lecture on winning the aging battle, while Tiffany McLauchlin, director of education for Lira Clinical, discussed and demonstrated the benefits of making exfoliation a full body experience.

GlyMed Plus Professional owner Christine Heathman divulged the secrets to successful retail, while Ingride Gagné, co-founder of Misencil, shared the techniques to creating the ultimate eyelashes. Éminence’s Koronczay entertained the crowd with his massage demonstration to get rid of fine lines on the forehead. Jenetiqa’s Christiane Waldron discussed ways to entice clients to try new treatments, while Melissa Black of Bombshell Salons & Candy Coat Beauty guided attendees through the full manscaping process.

Finally, Fabienne Lindholm, executive director of education for Babor North America, explained the concept

“[The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa] has provided our largest sales amount yet and for an introduction to the Central and South American markets,” -Jindilli’s owner Morgan Roy treatments and products by Bamboo Fusion, Jindilli, Osmosis Colour, 21 Drops (which also delighted spa directors with yoga sessions), and Nilaï Paris. Spa owners/directors were also treated to a special bucolic picnic at the nearby Botanical Garden.

The show brought together many notable names in the industry for lectures, demonstrations and much more. Aesthetic Science Institute owner Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner opened the main stage conference—sponsored by TiZO—on both days with inspirational lectures that left attendees in tears.

Kelly Lott, a nationwide certified massage instructor followed with a demonstration to help relieve clients of debilitating allergies. Dr. Ben Johnson

of creating a brand, branding oneself and one’s business.

The many conferences and product focused trainings allowed for participants to focus on their area of interest and learn from the very best in their fields.

“It’s great, I love it here. You can network and exchange ideas, find out about new products,” said Verena Souto, an esthetician and owner of Spa Jaó in Brazil. “I came to listen

to the conferences, I graduated in 2007 so it’s almost been 10 years that I come every year. I always find something.”

There’s no way around it, kicking off the season with the Miami show was the way to go, and its high power

Page 52 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

“It’s great, I love it here. You can network and exchange ideas, find out about new products,”

energy is set to follow on the upcoming shows of The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa!

-Verena Souto, an esthetician and owner of Spa Jaó in Brazil.

“It was so exciting to meet our current accounts in person and to introduce Image Skincare to an entirely new group of skin care professionals!” said Marissa Nolan, director of

12

marketing and communications for Image Skincare. Bella Schneider of Bella Schneider Beauty, who recently made a comeback in Miami, concurred.

“It was great to be in this congress, a pleasure to see old friends and clients. It was a successful show; the type of clients we acquired in Miami are unique, easy to deal with, and extremely enthusiastic! We plan to return next year!” Schneider said.

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Don’t miss a chance to mingle with the giants of this industry in a unique setting—come see for yourself what the congress is all about! Join us next year for The

International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Miami on November 6 and 7, 2016 at our new location, the Hyatt Regency Miami James L. Knight Center! n

15

1. Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner, congress host 2. Crowded floor 3. Misencil / BG Beauté 4. Bustling floor 5. DermaSwiss Booth 6. Spa Director Symposium 7. 21 Drops Yoga Workshop at Spa Director Symposium 8. Spa Director Symposium’s bucolic picnic 9. Attendees at the congress’ red carpet 10. Bella Schneider Beauty booth 11. Endo-Systems booth 12. Crowded Exhibit Hall 13. Ashiatsu Barefoot Massage by Bon Vital’ 14. HydraFacial M.D. booth 15. South Seas booth 16. Silhouet-Tone booth 17. Christina USA booth

16

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FOLLOW THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA ON Dates for 2015 Conferences : Long Beach, Calif., September 20-21 | Philadelphia, Penn., October 25-26 May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 53

spa | spa of the month

SPA

OF THE

MONTH

YUAN SPA, WHEN EAST ME E T S WEST by

Laetitia Longuefosse

SEATTLE, WASH.

“Health and wellness are reflections of our commitment to creating a balance between expending and restoring our human energy,” says Zee Zhang, owner of Yuan Spa in Seattle, Wash. With this idea in mind, Zhang created an oasis, combining traditional and authentic Asian healing therapies with a Western approach to health and well-being.

Located in downtown Bellevue, the hub of a number of high tech companies, Yuan Spa is a retreat that guests can escape to, where they can let go of daily stress and unplug from computers and other media that have taken over everyday life. At Yuan Spa, guests can relax, unwind and reset their minds, increase their productivity and inspiration.

Page 54 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

spa | spa of the month

STAFF

TRAINING

Yuan Spa’s highly qualified therapists create a warm and welcoming environment with the intention of connection with guests on a deeper level. Employees have created a sense of ‘ownership’ of the spa by participating in everything from service development to choosing product lines, being a part of the commission structure development, selecting Continuing Education Units (CEUs) to creating fun group outings and personal growth classes.

Yuan Spa is unique in that it emphasizes (and recognizes) the importance of staff’s involvement for the overall success of the spa. Aside from typical participation to trainings, protocol development, and offering suggestions to improve existing systems, employees also come up with their commission structure and make decisions when it comes to new product lines. They’ve initiated and run “Fun Club,” a club that organizes quarterly staff parties, events and outings, trades with other spa properties, and offers ongoing rewards to encourage teamwork.

For the initial customer service training, Yuan Spa uses a detailed training manual. The department lead and new hires spend about three hours reading through the manual together. Yuan Spa management then follows up with video training modules and an online test for the new hires to complete at home. For example, Module 1 consists of: Dress Code, Room Ambiance and Presentation, and Cleanliness and Sanitation. Finally, a hands-on test is performed.

The management at Yuan Spa finds that this three way learning allows for the information to be retained by all learning types and abilities.

Throughout the year, the spa manager or fellow therapists perform ongoing training. Staff is highly encouraged to participate in leading trainings. These courses have a wide range of interest and have consisted of Lomi Lomi, Table Thai, Cupping, Gua Sha, Body Mechanics… the list goes on. CEUs hosted by the spa have included maternity massage, hydrotherapy, ethics, first aid and CPR. Yuan Spa also has online training videos for staff to watch for its Signature Facial, HydraFacials, Signature Massage, Lomi Lomi, Thai Massage, Body Scrubs and Wraps.

Then, at least every other month, a brand rep comes in to train staff on product knowledge and advanced techniques.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 55

spa | spa of the month

MARKETING EVENTS Referral is what works best, according to Yuan Spa’s manager, who offers guests a $15 referral credit. However, this is not the only technique used by Yuan Spa: Monthly newsletters to keep current guests in the know are also popular, as are social media (Facebook mainly, with 850 likes and 280 followers on twitter). Front desk staff is in charge of creating social media content and scheduling Facebook posts.

MEMBERSHIP Locals are enticed with memberships that allow them to select from three easy plans: Midweek for $99 (from Monday to Thursday), Individual for $119 (any day), and Family for $139—all prices are per month.

The plans include a 60-minute massage, facial or body treatment (the Radiant Foot Treatment or Chinese Body Scrub), two Hydrotherapy passes, 20 percent off additional services and 10 percent off retail. Memberships are for a minimum of six months.

Members can also increase their monthly 60-minute service to 90 minutes for $40. The spa counts 600 members so far.

Yuan Spa offers events—typically facial events—at least quarterly. Its HydraFacial event tends to be the most popular: The spa offers express (30 minutes) HydraFacials with three machines running.

Another popular event involves taking a picture, either with the guest’s phone or the spa’s camera, have the guest undergo a treatment or a series of treatments and walk away with a home regimen. The guest then comes back three months after for an updated photo to see the changes in their skin with the new line they are using.

CLIENTELE Typical clientele includes both male and female business professionals (30 to 55 years old) with an income of $100,000 and more. Yuan Spa partners with neighboring business hotels to boost midweek volume and reward their concierge for referrals. Being amidst several major corporate companies such as Microsoft, Amazon, Google, Expedia and T-Mobile, Yuan Spa offers a welcomed respite from high stress workdays, strict deadlines and overscheduled calendars.

Page 56 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

CHOOSE YOUR STYLE

• CHOOSE YOUR COLOR

CHOOSE NEWAPEEL

From the makers of the Diamondtome crystal free microdermabrasion comes 3 new fantastic colors. You can choose: Majestic Bamboo, Nautical Blue, Zen Stone and of course our Classic. Pick the color that best fits your style.

AESTHETIC EXFOLIATION WAS NEVER SO COLORFUL.

altairinstruments.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243 on reader service card

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 57

spa | spa of the month

FACTS

yuanspa.com

TREATMENTS The HydraFacial (90 minutes, $255) is one of the most popular facials. Guests looking to address concerns such as fine lines and wrinkles, acne, or hyperpigmentation love this facial due to the immediate results.

Chinese Body Scrub (50 minutes, $195). This 50 minute Chinese Body Scrub pulls from the traditional heritage and communal bathing rituals seen across Asia. It’s a very liberal (minimal draping) scrub and highly exfoliating. The very nurturing service including two passes over every inch of the body finishes with the therapist brushing and washing the guest’s hair.

Radiant Foot Treatment (60 minutes, $115). This relaxing treatment incorporates reflexology points on the feet to address specific concerns for the guest such as digestion issues, insomnia or stress. The foot massage also includes a neck and shoulder massage, as well as a paraffin treatment to enhance the relaxation.

Yuan Spa Signature Massage (60 minutes, $115) is Yuan Spa’s core service, developed by the owner. It combines acupressure points, Tui Na and Lomi Lomi to create a unique experience outside of the typical deep tissue or Swedish massage.

Acupressure is used following the meridian lines to release muscle tension and balances one’s vital life force energy or chi. Tui Na is done at a faster tempo and with a bit of friction to increase the blood flow, stretch the muscles and release the fascia. Lomi Lomi aids relaxation and provides a sense of full body connectivity. n

1032 106th Ave. Suite 125, Bellevue, Wash. 98004 Owned by Zee Zhang FACILITY: • 8,000 square feet • 13 treatment rooms • One boutique salon • Hydrotherapy, including hot pool, cool sea salt pool, eucalyptus steam room, cedar sauna, salt bar, relaxation room STAFF: • 25 massage therapists • Six nail specialists • Six front desk employees SIGNATURE TREATMENTS • Yuan Spa Signature Massage • Chinese Body Scrub

• 11 estheticians • Two hair specialists • Two managers

• HydraFacial

PRODUCT LINES USED AND RETAILED: Yuan Spa’s private line, SkinCeuticals, Epicuren, Éminence Organic Skin Care, Naturopathica, Clarisonic, Supracor, Voluspa REVENUE COMPOSITION: • 59% massage • 17% facials • 4% hair • 6.5% body

• 2.5% hydrotherapy • 2% waxing

Laetitia Longuefosse was appointed Foreign Trade Advisor for France for her expertise in cosmetics. Longuefosse specializes in analyzing the differences and similarities between beauty perceptions in the U.S. versus Europe. She holds a degree from Institut de Sciences Politiques, and a master’s degree in marketing and communication.

Page 58 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #306 on reader service card

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 59

IT’S RAINING

MEN

HALLELUJAH!

by

Caroline Canetti

I

t’s raining men and spas are saying, “Hallelujah!” The latest statistics show that male clientele is growing in leaps and bounds around the country. “Historically, males made up 30 percent of the spa-goer population, but in recent years this number has grown to 47 percent,” says Lynne McNees, President of the International SPA Association.

Now that there is a nearly 50/50 split of male and female clientele, spas are finding creative new ways to expand their treatment menus to keep the gentlemen happy and coming back for more. “It is all about the customization of the treatment menu and providing options that appeal to both groups.

The number one reason men and women worldwide visit a spa is to learn how to manage their stress. Stress doesn’t differentiate between genders,” adds McNees.

Here’s a look at some of the latest trends in male spa offerings, including erectile dysfunction bodywork, booze-infused massages, beer baths, and even drum circles for men to tap into their primal side.

Page 60 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

THE LATEST TRENDS

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 61

spa | it’s raining men

1 BOOZE Many spas are now catering to men by offering booze and beer in body and facial treatments.

The Four Seasons Resor t and Residences in Vail, Colo., has a separate Brew and Renew Treatments menu through a par tnership with the local Crazy Mountain Brewing Company. The menu includes the Amber Ale Foot Soak (25 minutes, $75), which is filled with fresh beer and features crushed barley and malt food scrub, and includes a light foot rub using hop oil.

THE GUEST IS SERVED A COLD BEER ALONG WITH THESE TREATMENTS

Additionally, ESSpa Kozmetika Organic Skincare in Pittsburg, Penn., transformed their popular Brows and Bubbly eyebrow party for women into Brows, Bubbly & Bourbon to include the men. “We got a bunch of guys to come down to help control their Brezhnev-esque brows. Our Brows, Bubbly & Bourbon event allows guys to come to the spa in a group without

The yeast from the beer of fers a purifying and cleansing effect, which is helpful for mild fungal issues. Also on the menu is the Brew and Renew Massage (50 minutes, $165/85 minutes, $235). This massage features a hot stone session using warmed up cans of Crazy Mountain Brew. Clients can also enjoy the Beer Brew Bath (30 minutes, $55). The guest is served a cold beer along with these treatments.

The Four Seasons Hotel in Chicago, Ill., caters to the whisky loving man with their Men’s Bourbon Manicure or Pedicure (25 minutes, $35/40 minutes, $65 for a weekday manicure or $45 and $75 for a weekend manicure). His hands or feet are soaked in molten bourbon and then scrubbed with the “bourbon bubbler,” featuring a mix of brown sugar and whisky.

feeling awkward or out of place. For the guys, we offered eyebrow waxing and shaping, eyebrow tinting, eyelash tinting, waxing and ear waxing. We always have small batch bourbons on hand as well as several different beers,” say Scott Kerschbaumer, coowner of ESSpa Kozmetika Organic Skincare, with multiple locations in Pennsylvania.

Page 62 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

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May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #278 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 63

spa | it’s raining men

GOT A MAN PROBLEM? ETIQUETTE WITH MALE CLIENTS Sometimes with male clients, things “pop up”—and a therapist needs to be quick on their feet to react appropriately. This is why having proper protocols already in place with your employee handbook can be beneficial. Our experts share how they handle the sometimes embarrassing or uncomfortable situations that happen while treating the gentlemen who come into your spa.

1

A male client gets an erection during a massage.

“It’s a good idea to not bring it to his attention so that you don’t embarrass him. If he says something, though, assure him it’s natural and happens to a lot of men. The MTs may also give the man a little time to adjust,” says Tina Figueroa, owner of Le Petit Retreat Day Spa in Los Angeles, Calif.

2

A male client asks for sexual services.

“If it is an overt request for sexual services, remind the client that you provide therapeutic non-sexual services and ask if they are willing to continue the appointment with that understanding. If the requests continue or are threatening your safety or well being, terminate the session and tell the manager or owner. If you work alone, call a male friend, your spouse or the police to come to the premises,” says Felicia Brown, owner of the spa marketing company Spalutions!, and owner of A to Zen Massage in Greensboro, N.C. 3 A man comes in for a back wax, and you notice he has unsightly hair protruding out of his ears or nose.

“I would suggest once you are done waxing the back, you can gently ask, ‘Is there anything else I can take care of for you?’ You can say, for instance, we also have these services. If you feel comfortable, you can even say, ‘some men get their ear and nose hair waxed as well,” says Fenya Abramien, clinical esthetician at Skin Deep Med Spa in Pasadena, Calif.

4 A man drops his towel and accidentally exposes himself.

“The bigger deal you make out of something like this, the worse it is. Stay calm, hand them the towel or apologize briefly if you are the one who slipped up. Profuse apologies, stammering, etc., just draws more attention to the issue. Make it a non-event and it will pass much more easily,” says Brown.

Page 64 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

spa | it’s raining men

2

ERECTILE DYSFUNCTION BODYWORK

Studies report that 30 million men in America suffer from erectile dysfunction, and while there are medications to treat this, there is also a holistic approach that Resplendent Day Spa in Long Beach, Calif., is offering.

The spa’s Arvigo Techniques of Maya Abdominal Therapy I (ATMAT), practiced and taught by Rosita Arvigno, D.N., is based on Mayan medicine.

“It includes non-invasive techniques of manually manipulating the abdominal and pelvic structures to realign the reproductive organs, thereby improving blood flow to the reproductive and digestive organs.

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ATMAT works to restore the body to its natural balance by correcting the malposition of organs that have shifted and restricting the flow of blood, lymph, nerve and chi energy,” says Resplendent Day Spa owner Yvonne Tuchscher, who charges $175 for the first session and $135 for followup visits.

The way ATMAT can help with erectile dysfunction is this: “When toxins are removed from the pelvis, blood flow improves, which enhances normal sexual function and improves sperm production. Because innervation for the prostate and external genitalia comes from the splanchnic nerves of the sacral plexus, between L5-S5, any injury to the sacrum can cause problems like impotence, constipation, backache, or painful urination to name a few,” she says.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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spa | it’s raining men

3

MANLY MASSAGES

The most popular massages for men have long been—and still are— sports massage and deep tissue massage. But spas are coming up with more ways to please the fans of bodywork, with options including four-handed massages, golf ball massage, and more.

As for the more common sports and deep tissue massages, Felicia Brown, owner of the spa marketing company Spalutions! and owner of A to Zen Massage in Greensboro, N.C., points out that therapists need to be careful to ask the right questions when a man books either massage because they are quite different modalities.

THE MOST POPULAR MASSAGES FOR MEN HAVE LONG BEEN SPORTS MASSAGE AND DEEP TISSUE MASSAGE.

Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa in San Diego, Calif., offers a QuiroGolf Massage (60 minutes, $175; 90 minutes, $250), performed with actual golf balls to treat individual sections of the body and improve flexibility.

Page 66 • lneonline.com

The spa also has a Sports Massage (60 minutes, $175; 90 minutes, $250) with stretching, joint compression and brisk massage techniques to help alleviate the aches and pain of overworked muscles while improving performance.

At Skin Apeel Day Spa in Boca Raton, Fla., the Who’s Your Daddy? massage (60 minutes, $129), which includes an aromatherapy massage with a sinus treatment, is quite popular.

Spa owner Kim Knapp says that their Traditional Thai massage (90 minutes, $170; 120 minutes, $209), Stress Relief Acupuncture (75 minutes, $90, 120 minutes, $145, and Bamboo

Fusion massage (90 minutes, $165) in which the bamboo energy tools facilitate deep action are also growing in popularity with their male clientele.

The four-handed massage is also a great option for men because they typically have more body muscle that is harder for some therapists to work out on their own—and it provides an ultra-relaxing experience. Voda Spa in West Hollywood, Calif., offers their Voda Signature Four Hand Massage (50 minutes, $250, 80 minutes, $325), where two therapists work in unison.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #101 on reader service card

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spa | it’s raining men

4

REAL MEN GET FACIALS

“ G e n t l e m e n ’s F a c i a l s ” a n d “Executive Facials” are mainstays, but some spas are getting even more creative in catering facials to the male client and finding new ways to get them through the door.

Armed with the fact that many men have their first spa experience at the hands of their wife or girlfriend, Le Petit Retreat in Los Angeles, Calif., has marketed their spa as a “relationship spa.”

Le Petit’s offerings that are especially attractive to men are the Couples Champagne Facial (60 minutes, $280),

where the couples often hold hands during their treatment, as well as their Scalp Massage (15 minutes, $35, 30 minutes, $70) to help melt away the tension of a guy’s busy workday.

“Men tend to choose the Scalp Massage for a few reasons: to encourage hair growth and to de-stress, since they live in their heads most of the day and the scalp does get a bit neglected,”says Le Petit Retreat owner Tina Figueroa. “The aromatherapy products we use contain rosemary, olive oil, and lemon, so it’s very refreshing

MANY MEN HAVE THEIR FIRST SPA EXPERIENCE AT THE HANDS OF THEIR WIFE OR GIRLFRIEND.

and stimulating while being soothing.

The benefits are clear: increasing circulation, stimulating hair growth, and healthy hair and de-stressing.”

To reassure men that spas are not just for the ladies anymore, The Spa at Norwich Inn in Norwich, Conn., offers a package titled Real Men Do Spa ($219), which includes a 50-minute Men’s Energizing Facial or Swedish Massage, haircut and style, lunch, full use of the facilities, plus a morning meditation.

Hot stone and cold stone facials are also attracting Y chromosome clients.

SEE OUR FEATURE ON PAGE 10!

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spa | it’s raining men

5

MEDITATIVE AND PRIMAL PRACTICES

While nearly every spa treatment provides stress relief, A to Zen Massage is taking that mission to new heights by offering various meditative offerings at their spa. “A lot of our therapists do guided meditation or visualization individually with their clients on the table.

For male clients, we’re not going to talk as much about feelings as we

6

would with a female client. Instead, we’d say something like, ‘I want you to imagine the muscles in your neck… letting go like snow melting in the sun,’” says owner Felicia Brown.

A to Zen Massage also offers a drum circle as a way to fully utilize their yoga room. “The drum circle is very meditative as well. Drumming is very masculine and primal and

musical—guys can feel like a rock star in a way. We’re also offering Tai Chi, which men gravitate towards, and is another way to make money in our yoga room,” she says.

The spa recently offered their first drum circle for a suggested donation of $10 and plans to include a two-hour intro to drumming class for $20.

GROWTH OF THE GROOMING MARKET

As old-fashioned barbershops are growing in popularity by offering classic, straight razor shaves and shaveand-a-haircut deals, day spa owners might want to start looking into adding some of those services to their hair salon menus. (See “Modern Man,” page 118).

Well Groomed Gentleman in Coral Gables, Fla., does the opposite—they are primarily a barbershop but with added spa services. The staples of

their menu include the Well Groomed Gentleman Haircut ($35), Gentleman Shave ($35), Shoe Shine ($7), Hand Grooming ($15), and Foot Grooming ($30), along with the more spa-like services of a 60-minute massage ($85) and a 60-minute facial ($85).

Of course, manscaping is also on the agenda for the well-groomed man.

Enrique Ramirez, owner of face to face nyc, New York, N.Y., says their waxing business for men continues to rise.

The spa has 27 waxing and sugaring options for the guys alone, starting with eyebrow ($35), nose ($25), and ear ($25) waxing all the way up to the 2.5-hour entire body wax called the Smooth Operator for $300.

“Many men are shy and still in the spa closet and won’t allow themselves to book a straight under-the-belt waxing,” says Ramirez. “However, in a very discreet grooming fashion, they book a Back Wax ($60), and once in the treatment room, slowly start to ask, ‘So... how much does it hurt to get my balls waxed?’ That’s pretty much our cue to inform them and educate them of our close-to-pain-free wax and boom!”

Face to Face’s under the belt waxing options include “Marble Sac with Shaft” (removing hair from the sex organ, in-

MANY MEN ARE SHY AND STILL IN THE SPA CLOSET.

Page 70 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

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spa | it’s raining men

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LASH ENHANCEMENT

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cluding testicles, $55) and “South of the Border” (removing all frontal pubic hair, including testicles, $75).

As we reported in our July 2014 Lash Guide, men are starting to come to the spa for lash treatments as well.

“I had a man come in with dark hair

and dark eyes, but his lashes were starting to gray, before any other hair on his body. It was the craziest thing. So we started doing lash services for men,” says Shannon Sturdivant, owner of Lashes by Shannon in Dallas, Texas.

Along with a waxing menu for men, LashSpot Spa in Costa Mesa, Calif., also has a separate men’s menu for lashes. Services include LashTint ($35 regular price/$25 member price); Lift, a.k.a. semi-curl, ($55 regular/$35 member); Extensions ($70 regular/$45 member) and Extension Touch-ups ($45 regular/$35 member). n

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unique microderm Kelley West Microderm360 is the creation of licensed medical esthetician Kelley West. The Microderm360 is equipped with a new patent pending 180 degree swivel neck that allows the Diamond Tip to access hard to reach parts of the body at a precise angle, says the company.

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KNOTS away Bon Vital’ introduces its Massage Gels: Muscle Therapy, Organica, and Therapeutic Touch. Enriched with eucalyptus oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, olive oil and squalene among other ingredients, the oils leave no greasy feel, contain no nut oils and are paraben free, says the company.

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lneonline.com • Page 77

LNE & SPA

CHAT with Jennifer Lynn

Spa Director at the Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas

by Laetitia Longuefosse

A self-proclaimed desert flower, Jennifer Lynn is right at home in the glittering backdrop of her native Las Vegas, Nev. A spa industry professional with 18 years of experience in spa design, operations and brand development, Lynn has held the director of spa and salon positions at Caesars Palace, Bacara Resort & Spa, Bellagio Resort and Treasure Island Resort. Lynn has been involved in the projects and openings of nine spas and salons.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life?

I am an avid yogi. Yoga is the perfect way to find my center. I find yoga can help me to relieve physical tension but also release emotional stress.

What do you like most about your job?

Being in a spa environment allows me to live and breathe the things in my life I am most passionate about: healthy living, eating well, exercise and taking care of my skin, body and personal health. I love that the spa industry attracts so many like-minded individuals.

How can you define the concept of your spa?

The spas at Mandarin Oriental are born out of a sincere understanding and passion for wellness, which we

define as a way of life that focuses on physical, emotional and mental wellbeing. The spas at Mandarin Oriental are havens for contemplation and discovery. In Las Vegas, our spa reflects the exotic décor and ambience of an urban spa in the Orient.

Can you give us a breakdown of your spa’s revenue composition?

Massage accounts for 55 percent of our revenue, skin care approximately 22 percent, body treatments five percent, retail 10 percent, and miscellaneous services such as hair, waxing and nail care services eight percent.

What can you tell us about your marketing techniques?

Our primary focus is to attract new guests to the hotel while also creating programs and promotions to en-

Page 78 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

Who are your clients?

Seventy eight percent of our spa goers are Mandarin Oriental hotel guests travelling from various locations around the United States, with a small percentage of international spa goers. The other 22 percent of our demographic are guests staying at other hotels and locals.

How do you select the people that are going to be working with you?

The selection process for Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group is quite extensive. I truly value a good referral, from past or current colleagues. Each candidate will need to pass a series of interviews including our human resources screening, department interview, department audition, spa director interview and then a final interview with the general manager for the property.

courage repeat guests. This is accomplished by direct sales efforts, online marketing, focused public relations initiatives and events. On the secondary market, we focus on local advertising for cultivating a local clientele, which also consists of Las Vegas visitors staying at other hotels.

How many employees do you have?

At Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas we have 59 colleagues, which include spa concierge, male and female spa hosts, fitness instructors and treatment providers. Our treatment providers are largely represented by colleagues that possess multiple licenses in esthetics, massage, nail technician, hair stylists and makeup artists.

Do you hold special events, promotions?

Events are a great way to boost your retail sales. We are in a unique environment where we have residents who live in our building. We offer events about once a quarter. I have found that too many events dilutes the excitement. It is important to create an event worthy of promoting: such as the launch of new product, or seasonal merchandise.

How do you train staff?

The onboarding for new colleagues depending on position can be as little as two weeks and as long as one month. All colleagues attend a twoday immersion course on the hotel, Mandarin Oriental company and culture. Then the colleagues go to their department for on the job training, specialized workshops, online learning and product knowledge trainings.

For treatment providers, they are also

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

provided hands-on training and must be passed by our spa trainers before performing treatments on a guest.

Where is the retail area located?

Our retail area is located at the conclusion of the guest journey. It is strategically placed so all guests concluding their spa journey enter the retail area, have a chance to review the recommended products suggested by their treatment provider. We also set up a satellite retail area during the peak pool season, which helps to promote the seasonal goods.

What is your retail goal?

Our retail goal is to achieve 12 percent of retail sales to treatment revenue.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals?

We have created several different incentives. All colleagues are given a monthly goal, if they reach their goal, the commission goes up on a sliding scale based on overall sales. We also create special incentive contests such as product or treatment bingo. Once the colleague gets a bingo or blackout, they win prizes such as treatments, products and gift cards. n

Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas Spa: • 27,000 square feet

Retail area: • 800 square feet • 16 treatment rooms • Steam rooms • Locker facilities • Rhassoul and Turkish hammam

Favorite treatment: A combination of the hammam and an 80-minute massage.

lneonline.com • Page 79

Organic Entrepreneurship Business Lessons from the Youth

by David Suzuki When I was a kid, it was normal to have one nice pair of sneakers to wear on special occasions, and a second pair that we kicked around in daily. Today, industry experts say, the average American youth owns more than 10 pairs of sneakers—“sneakerheads” may own more than 20. If this new trend in our culture has exploded the sneaker industry into a $75 billion dollar global market (with no sign of slowing in sight), what comes next is a testament of the fearlessness of youth that the adult world of business has much to learn from.

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business | organic entrepreneurship

Buy—Sell—Trade Our 13-year-old son, a sneaker enthusiast and entrepreneur who buys, sells or trades more than two or three pairs of shoes per week, told us about an event that he and his friend wanted to attend called SoleFam. When we arrived at the exhibition hall we found ourselves in a room full of teenage sneakerheads busily selling, trading, and buying shoes. There were shoes as low as $50, a specialty edition pair of Nike Air Yeezys that were selling for $4,000 and everything you could imagine in between. Our son walked into SoleFam with three pairs of used shoes, walked out with two new pairs, and $85 cash. The organizer and founder of SoleFam is none other than a 14-year-old boy.

Cannots In the adult world of business there seems to be a neverending stream of complaints and excuses about why “something” can’t be done, why the sale can’t be made, why the appointment books can’t be filled, and why targets can’t be achieved. When I hear this, all I can think of is SoleFam. If a group of kids can make this happen as a hobby, shouldn’t we, as adults, be able to make a business successful?

One of the most amazing things about kids is that they haven’t accepted the concept or meaning of can’t.

While some may interpret this as defiance, I see it as en-

trepreneurial and as an optimistic spirit that we need more of in this world. Kids persist, adjust, reconfigure, and try again, and again, and again. Although it’s human nature to be competitive, the sneakerheads do what they do because they’re passionate about it, and because it’s fun—two vital components missing from the cannots. Be passionate about what you do, and you will find a way to make it successful.

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Fear of Failure Kids also haven’t learned to fear failure. While most adults are usually very concerned about everything and everybody, kids simply do not care. Have you ever watched an adult attempt to learn to ski while toddlers go whizzing by them as if they’ve been doing it for decades? While the toddler can’t wait to go back, 83 percent of adults statistically will not return to the mountain. Yes, part of it is ego and part of it is athleticism, yet experts argue that adults fear the idea of failure so adamantly that they rarely expose themselves to anything new. And when they do venture out, their persistence and tenacity is weak compared to that of a child.

Be passionate about what you do, and you will find a way to make it successful.

In the adult business world we spend far too much time and resources analyzing and processing data to determine whether or not something is a good idea, will present well, reflect well, or be appropriate, all for fear of failure. Don’t get me wrong, having thorough information is certainly a necessary attribute to smart decision making. But don’t get so caught up in the process that you miss your objective altogether, and don’t create a process to simply avoid making

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May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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business | organic entrepreneurship

a decision. Try different things, experiment, duplicate what works, and eliminate what doesn’t.

Activity = Productivity

David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com.

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An amazing attribute of today’s teenagers is their seemingly effortless ability to communicate and create a stir! Walk into any teenager’s room and you will find them Snapchatting, Xboxing, texting and Instagramming simultaneously. It’s insane, but it works.

We should take lessons from their skill in this arena.

Activity equals productivity. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, blogs, Snapchat, Vine, it’s all there at our fingertips if we dare to learn about it, and dare to risk looking silly. The flip side of silly is success. Maybe our version of SoleFam is age management events or even teen skin events, where our suppliers offer goodie bags and your team can create fun, forward thinking educational pieces, mini professional services, demonstrations using products, and even a hands on portion where the client learns how to use the products themselves.

Maybe your website also incorporates a blog where you are not only marketing your product and service offerings,

but bringing small bits of updated information that’s also being promoted and shared via your social media channels.

Maybe your retail area and clinic becomes the site of small events that you believe in, support, and are passionate about.

This will help you meet and identify with like minds that will ultimately become your clients and strongest advocates.

Or maybe we should sit around idly in the comfort of our predictable environment and continue to compile the growing list of why we cannot . . . n

Page 84 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

SEE YOU AT ICES PHILADELPHIA, OCTOBER 25 & 26

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lneonline.com • Page 85

FACTS AND FIGURES How to Understand the Numbers Driving Your Spa

By Gia DeRose

Page 86 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

G

ut instincts are helpful when managing personal relationships, but highly unreliable when trying to manage your business. To run your spa, you need to know the details. This includes the quantity of massages booked, total products sold, effectiveness of discounts offered, etc.

That’s the kind of information that helps you set goals and make decisions about the future of your business. The numbers that help you measure your success—what many call key performance indicators or KPIs—help you understand any sales fluctuations, explain seasonal trends and answer a myriad of other questions, so you’re better equipped to make important changes like adding a new service or location.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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business | facts and figures

BELOW ARE THE TOP THREE KPIS YOU’LL WANT TO PAY ATTENTION TO: REVENUE GROWTH, ATTENDANCE AND RETENTION.

REVENUE GROWTH Most people know revenue growth is important, but it doesn’t tell the whole story. It’s necessary to dig deeper to discover where that growth is coming from, because an overall increase in revenue doesn’t necessarily mean positive growth.

First, get your total revenue for the year and write down the difference between last year’s revenue and this year’s total. Next, separate each source of revenue by service type (e.g., massage, facials, waxing, etc.). Write down the totals for each, and again compare to last year’s information. Which services are increasing and which are decreasing? Are there any surprises? If so, do a little more digging to find out why.

Then, calculate each service’s monthly revenue and compare to last year’s information.

DO YOU SEE ANY TRENDS? ARE THERE CERTAIN TIMES OF YEAR THAT YOUR SALES FOR SPECIFIC SERVICES INCREASE OR DECREASE? IF YES, WHY?

Perhaps business soars during the holidays and summer months, but once all the kids go back to school and adults go back to work, there’s a slump. Or maybe you offered a discount and had an influx of people.

Once you’ve determined your poorer performing months and identified the reason, you can then do something about it. Offering discounts and promotions and bundling services are effective ways to draw in the crowds and help offset low performing months.

ATTENDANCE Identifying the people who come into your spa, where they came from and what brought them through your doors will help you better market your services. It will also help you in determining the success of any current promotions you’re offering.

Start by noting your total number of clients for the year and those who have made at least two appointments. Keep in mind that the more specific you get, the better you’ll understand how people are finding your business. For example, you could separate your clients into the following groups: regular customers (at least one visit a month), frequent customers (every other month), quarterly customers (at least four times a year) and those who have come in only once.

The next step is identifying the number of people booking appointments for each service (e.g., massage, facial, wax, etc.) and what brought them to your spa. Did they take advantage of a promotional offer, or did they walk in off the street? Did someone refer them, or did they find you online?

Knowing how people are hearing about you will help you decide where and how to advertise.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

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business | facts and figures

RETENTION

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Your retention rate is one of the most important numbers you’ll want to track. Why? Because it will help you identify when people leave you and why. Take the information you gathered from measuring your attendance (e.g., regular clients, frequent customers, etc.), and identify any monthly patterns. Again, this can be due to seasonal trends, promotions or something else. If you haven’t already, separate your clients into groups (e.g., those who came in from introductory offers, a bundled promotion, a deal of the day, etc.).

This will help you determine how successful each promotion or discount is.

If you notice that one of your promotions isn’t doing well, consider changing it. Perhaps it isn’t long enough, it costs too much or clients simply don’t know about it. The deeper your understanding of who’s coming in, what services they’re scheduling and what offers they’re taking advantage of, the better equipped you’ll be when making key decisions for your spa.

On a side note, you always want the number of new customers coming in from introductory offers to make up the majority of your new visitors, because initial offers inherently have a longer time commitment.

For example, if you offer new clients 10 facial waxes for $60, you now have 10 days to entice them to come back, compared to one day if they were to walk in off the street and purchase one brow wax.

By offering packaged deals that require multiple visits, you increase the likelihood that people will make return visits and eventually become loyal clients. Keep in mind that it can take a couple of months to see the results of changes made to introductory deals or promotions offered.

Now that you know who’s coming into your spa, what they’re spending their money on and why, you’re ready to start setting some goals. While goal setting isn’t rocket science, it does require time and attention.

IF YOU NOTICE THAT ONE OF YOUR PROMOTIONS ISN’T DOING WELL, CONSIDER CHANGING IT

Page 90 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

business | facts and figures

HERE ARE SEVEN STEPS TO HELP YOU CREATE SPECIFIC GOALS AND GET POWERFUL RESULTS.

Step

1

SET SPECIFIC, MEASURABLE AND ATTAINABLE GOALS. Make your goals as specific as possible and only include actionable items that you can realistically achieve. Here is an example:

GENERAL GOAL: Book more massages.

SPECIFIC GOAL: Increase massage revenue 30 percent by the end of next quarter.

- Include what you want to accomplish (an increase in massage revenue by 30 percent) - Establish a timeframe (by the end of next quarter) - Measure your success (percentage of massage revenue increased over given period of time)

Step

ARRANGE EACH GOAL BY PRIORITY AND ACHIEVABILITY.

Step

SET A REALISTIC COMPLETION DATE.

Step

IDENTIFY HURDLES AND BUDGETARY REQUIREMENTS.

Step

SET CHECKPOINTS AND ADJUST GOALS IF NEEDED.

2

3

4

5

Be mindful of your wants versus your business needs. For example, you may want to offer the latest in spa equipment, but do you really need to? Adding another service or staff member might seem helpful, but at what cost?

Your success in executing your plan and achieving each of your goals weighs heavily on how honest you are with yourself about what you are truly capable of completing in a given time period.

Take your prioritized list and identify any hurdles and budgetary requirements each goal would have.

For example, to increase massage revenue by 30 percent, you might choose to promote your massage services on the front page of your website, via social media or in a deal-of-the-day service. These are all affordable options that require little time to execute.

You might also choose to upsell other services by coupling them (e.g., facial, manicure, pedicure) with a massage, or include signage in your spa to promote a discount or bundled special.

Set checkpoints to track your progress. If after two weeks you realize that you’re only 10 percent of the way to your goal, you may want to change your approach (e.g., offer more aggressive discounts, attend local mixers, sponsor a local event, etc.), adjust your timeline, or both.

Make sure not to get caught up in the details. If a particular goal is taking more time than originally projected, take a moment to consider why. Does increasing your massage revenue by 30 percent really require you to purchase new tables, add a new product line and hire new staff, or are you being overly critical?

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 91

business | facts and figures

Step

BE FLEXIBLE.

Step

MEASURE YOUR PROGRESS.

6 7

As you begin to execute your plan and strive toward achieving your goals, be open to amending them. Variables often change and things come up. Whether the delivery of your order was delayed due to bad weather, a family emergency pulled you away or a staff member was injured, it’s important to stay flexible.

Once you’ve reached the conclusion of your projected timeframe, calculate your results. Were you able to meet or even surpass your goal? Why or why not? This process will help you make better goals in the future and give you a better idea of what’s realistic for you in your business.

Gia DeRose is a Regional Sales Manager at MINDBODY, a tech company that provides business management software to health, wellness and beauty businesses worldwide. Gia enjoys helping businesses realize their goals and is a strong promoter of utilizing cutting-edge technology to facilitate the growth and efficiency of businesses worldwide.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #140 on reader service card

Understanding the numbers that drive your spa empowers you as a business owner to set realistic expectations and achievable goals, resulting in the success you work so hard to achieve.

The more specific you are when making your goals, the more likely you are to achieve them. n

Page 92 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #339 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 93

NEW TITLE Spafinder Wellness, Inc., names Kristin Valentine as vice president of digital sales and advertising. “We are very pleased to tap Kristin Valentine to lead digital sales and advertising, working with our vast network of spa and wellness partners,” said Pete Ellis, chairman and CEO of Spafinder Wellness, Inc.

spafinder.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

EASY BOOKING

Visit LNEonline.com for more news

Square has added Square Appointments to its complete register service, says the company.

Square Appointments is a business solution that makes online scheduling simple and quick for sellers and customers. Users can easily manage appointments, ensure they don’t miss a sale, and offer customers a seamless booking experience.

squareup.com

ONLINE EDUCATION Rhonda Allison introduces a new 90 Days Live Education Series. The live, online series focuses on specific skin challenges such as acne, rosacea, aging and hyperpigmentation. Enabling interactive learning, the series also allows 24 hour access to archives training courses.

866.313.7546 rhondaallison.com/pro/90_day.html

GREAT HONOR NovaLash named 10 of the country’s most elite lash artists as the first NovaLash Brand Ambassadors.

The squad of lashers is uniquely positioned to represent the brand at VIP events and shows and mentor students, says the company. “We are so proud of this talented group of certified professionals,” said NovaLash CEO Sophy Merszei.

866.430.1261 novalash.com

Page 94 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

expert addition Repêchage announced that its board of director will add Charles Yarish, PhD., of the Department of Ecology & Evolutionary Biology at the University of Connecticut, as a consultant for the year 2015.

Yarish will help in the evaluation and sourcing of sustainable wild harvested seaweeds for cosmetic and agricultural uses.

800.248.7546 repechage.com

PASSING OF A VETERAN

800.347.7456 spilo.com

Bioelements announced the passing of Pat Rambo-Rucka, their national sales manager and long time skin care industry veteran. Rambo-Rucka was a pivotal part of the Bioelements sales team for 20 years.

Her love for esthetics began in her years as a salon owner in Illinois. She joined the Bioelements team in 1998.

800.433.6650 bioelements.com/pro

legal resources The Allied Professionals Association (APA) has introduced a new program for members: quality, free legal resources. APA’s online member benefits now include an option to submit legal questions to real lawyers that practice in your state and access a database of existing legal advice at no cost to members, says the company.

800.444.7546 alliedprofessionals.net

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

Spilo Worldwide Headquarters has relocated to a new state-of-the-art facility in Vernon, Calif. The offices, warehouse, and every last nail file and bobby pin, says the company, have a place within this new 50,000 square foot home featuring a 200 foot assembly line.

The company also welcomed Misty Becker as director of worldwide sales. Becker has 15 years of experience in sales leadership, and will focus on cultivating customer relationships and support overall company growth.

BusinessNews

NEW locale & HIRE

Visit LNEonline.com for more news lneonline.com • Page 95

LNEONLINE.COM Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

Page 96 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

THE TRENDSETTER OF WELLNESS & SPA

LONG BEACH, CA SEPT 20 & 21, 2015 AT THE LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

INNOVATE. Main Stage Lectures and Demos Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Med Spa Business Conference Wellness Conference

PRESENTED BY

ENDORSED BY

Image Conference Massage Conference Spa DĂŠcor Conference AIA Conference Product Focused Training Hundreds of Exhibitors

Page 98 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

In addition to the oil pressed from the seeds, chia seeds also produce a gelatinous substance that can be used in skin treatments.

Cha-Cha-

Chia!

Unlock the treasures of these tiny seeds

by Elina Fedotova

The word “chia” comes from the Mayan word for “strength.”

The scientific name for the chia plant is Salvia hispanica L. It belongs to the mint family and is native to southern Mexico and northern Guatemala. Chia seeds were historically used as food by the Aztecs and Mayans, and were revered by native Indians for providing long lasting energy to warriors and runners. The chia seed has recently been lauded with “superfood” status in the Western world for its impressive abundance of nutritional properties (See page 100). This super reputation has now started to spread beyond its use as an edible supplement to the beauty and skin care industry, as chia seed oil is becoming famous for its many beauty benefits.

lneonline.com • Page 99

organic & wellness | cha-cha-chia!

Skin Care Properties

Due to the undeniable topical benefits of these tiny nutritional powerhouses, the skin care industry is starting to incorporate chia seeds into products and treatments, and for good reason! They contain an unrivaled amount of beneficial properties.

Though very small, chia seeds have very high oil content—up to 39 percent, according to the International Journal of Food Science, and are one of the leading sources of omega-3s. Along with these essential fatty acids, vitamins and nutrients contained in the chia seed help to nourish and calm the skin.

With a higher antioxidant count than blueberries, they also have outstanding anti-inflammatory and skin rejuvenating properties. Chia seed oil can either be applied directly on the face and body to help restore dry patches, or on top of a moisturizer to seal it in. In addition to the oil pressed from the seeds, chia seeds also produce a gelatinous substance that can be used as skin treatments. This is formed when the chia seeds are placed in water, and a mucilaginous gel appears around each seed. This substance helps to hydrate the skin, and provides calming and rejuvenating properties that can diminish the appearance of wrinkles.

nutritional powerhouses As you incorporate the exciting power of chia seeds into your skin care services, don’t neglect to share the outstanding benefits/nutritional background of this ingredient as a dietary dynamo with your clients. Their gentle, nearly tasteless flavor makes them easy to blend into other foods for a major nutritional boost. If you have a juice bar at your spa, add these miniscule gems into your latest smoothie recipe!

High in omega-3 fatty acids High soluble fiber content Rich in antioxidants High in phosphorous Good source of calcium Rich in iron and manganese May improve energy levels Gluten free

Page 100 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

organic & wellness | cha-cha-chia!

Chia Seed

SKIN RECIPES

Refreshing

Body Scrub

This can be a treat for your clients during any foot or body service to exfoliate and nourish the skin.

2 tablespoons slightly ground chia seeds 1 tablespoon each coconut oil and honey 1 tablespoon baking soda, which helps to detoxify and smooth the epidermis.

3 drops ginger (for a warming effect) or peppermint essential oil (for a cooling effect) 5 drops tea tree oil for healing and antiseptic effects

Deep Moisturizing Replenish your client’s skin .

Masque

Finely grind 1 tablespoon chia seeds in a small grinder.

Soak the ground chia seeds in coconut or filtered water until they swell.

Add 1 teaspoon chia seed oil.

After mixing the ingredients together, apply to the skin and let sit for five to 10 minutes. *Enhance this mask by adding one or two drops organic essential oil (for oily complexions, try juniper berry oil; for dry complexions, try rose or chamomile essential oils).

Mix ingredients together and gently massage this scrub into your client’s feet, hands, or entire body. Wipe or rinse off. Alternatively, you can leave it on for five to 10 minutes and cover your client’s hands and feet with plastic warming mittens and booties.

Rejuvenating

AROMATIC OIL

Treat your clients to this delicately sensual aromatherapy experience.

1 ounce chia seed oil 5 drops ylang-ylang essential oil

Gentle

Exfoliator

For dry and aged complexions .

Grind 2 teaspoons chia seeds in a small grinder until fine.

Mix with 1 teaspoon coconut oil (To avoid a coconut scent, use organic deodorized coconut oil).

Add 1/2 teaspoon organic raw honey for additional detoxifying and hydrating effects.

Add 1 or 2 drops essential oil that suits your client’s complexion.

Massage this nourishing scrub gently over your client’s face, neck and décolleté for three to five minutes. Remove with warm compresses.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

3 drops sandalwood essential oil 2 drops jasmine essential oil Mix ingredients together and massage over the face or body.

Elina Fedotova is an award winning esthetician, cosmetic chemist and the CEO of Elina Organics. She uses the intelligence of nature to heal and beautify the skin. Her edible products and skin care expertise have been featured on GMA Live! and other television shows. For more information visit elinaorganics.com or call 877.384.8300.

lneonline.com • Page 101

I NGRED I ENTS TO WATCH

HASHING IT OUT Page 102 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

CANNABIS

THE EMERGENCE OF IN THE WELLNESS INDUSTRY

BY NATHALIE

GOUILLOU

I

ts leaf is an international, cross-generational and cultural symbol that for many embodies the hippie movement ideals of love and peace. Yet for governmental agencies around the world, it counts among the most nefarious plants out there. Whatever it may be, cannabis (Cannabis sativa) has been making headlines and taking the spotlight for its plethora of medicinal properties that many vouch for, rather than its infamous highs.

If the plant is gaining terrain for its medical uses, many also see it as an all around wellness ally that can bring goodness to many more than those afflicted with serious illnesses and conditions.

WEALTH OF BENEFITS

Cannabis has long been hailed as a holistic and sacred herb and the history of its use and consumption dates back millennia. More than 4,000 years ago, cannabis was said to be used as medicine by a Chinese emperor and was described as “sacred grass” in Hindu holy texts.

Hundreds of years later Zoroastrians—practitioners of an ancient Persian religion—referred to it as a “good narcotic,” while many civilizations cultivated the plant for textiles and its seeds for oil and food (some may then refer to the plant as hemp rather than cannabis).

Packed with proteins, vitamin E, omega-3 and gamma linolenic acid (GLA), as well as iron and magnesium, the plant’s seeds and their oil are a great source of antioxidants, essential fatty acids and other minerals that are crucial for the function of cells, act as anti-inflammatory, and make the plant and its derivatives highly effective for skin care and beauty.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 103

organic & wellness | hashing it out

FROM PROHIBITION AND BREAKING OUT It’s only in early modern times that the plant’s highly revered status took a plunge around the world, its production and use soon to be made a crime.

Yet with the recent legalization of cannabis as a medicinal and recreational drug in some states, and the support it continues to gain from lawmakers around the country, the use of cannabis in the spa environment is a trend that slowly seems to emerge— where recreational cannabis has been legalized that is (to date: Colorado, Washington, and Alaska. Oregon— starting July 1).

Legalized Recreational Cannabis

JUMPING ON THE BANDWAGON Some spa owners and practitioners in those newly legalized states have jumped on the opportunity to offer an ingredient—still forbidden in most places—and its myriad of benefits to their guests. Perhaps they also saw in it a way to entice and assuage a curious and eager new clientele.

According to a recent SpaFinder 2015 Trends Report, LoDo Massage & Private Yoga Studio, Denver, Colo., has seen its business triple since it launched its “Mile High Massage,” partnering with a brand that offers cannabis infused products.

Others opted for a more timid approach and chose to not offer the plant at their spas but rather invite their clients to bring their own oils or lotions, if they wish for them to be used during their treatments.

Take Danielli Martelli, owner of Primal Wellness Day Spa & Studio in Englewood, Colo., who opened her spa on Oct. 1, 2014. Martelli offers her clients 21 and older a complimentary cannabis infusion with their massages or facials. The cannabis infusion—which is complimentary because only dispensaries can legally sell cannabis and its derivatives—is Martelli’s own creation, a blend of hemp oil purchased through spa wholesales, to which is added some drops of whole plant cannabis extract she purchases at a cannabis dispensary. “Basically, we’re just supercharging the oil,” says Martelli of the infusion, adding that her clientele has been mostly tourists coming from all over the world. “People love it,” she says. Martelli keeps on site only the legal amount of cannabis and makes her way to the dispensary as needed.

DOCTORS’ ORDERS Some medspas such as MD Medical Spa & Wellness Center in Cape Cod, Mass., are having their doctors prescribe medical cannabis after proper medical evaluation—a trend that’s sure to gain terrain.

Page 104 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

HEMP AND CANNABIS On the surface, hemp—from which the skin care ingredient hemp oil is extracted—and cannabis are the same plant, Cannabis sativa that is. Yet hemp refers to the industrial use of cannabis stalks and seeds for textile, papers, construction, food, and body care products, all of which are legal.

Hemp skin care products are packed with proteins, vitamin E and essential fatty acids. And unlike cannabis, which is grown for its potent resinous glands that contain high amounts of THC, hemp only has trace amounts (below 0.3 percent THC).

THC VS CBD The confusion grows deeper when one starts to weigh in on the benefits of THC in the wellness area against those of a lesser-known chemical compound of cannabis, Cannabidiol (CBD). A key ingredient in cannabis, CBD, is non-psychoactive, and studies have found it to have a wide range of medical benefits—its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties being those that apply best to the spa industry.

The role of THC is seemingly more prominent to the medical world and perhaps of little value to the spa industry—yet more studies would have to be done.

While some skin care companies have begun to market products with CBD with the conviction that the ingredient is legal in all 50 states, the matter is a bit blurry. According to the Hemp Industries Association, CBD is still considered a Schedule I drug because the federal bill known as Charlotte’s Web Medical Hemp Act of 2014 seeks to exclude CBD from what is legally defined as cannabis—as long as cannabis is illegal under federal laws, so is CBD.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 105

organic & wellness | hashing it out

GOOD FOR SKIN The active ingredients in cannabis are cannabinoids—the better known being tetrahydrocannabinol or THC, which is responsible for the highs that one gets when ingesting or smoking the plant. Used for centuries as natural medicine for various ailments, cannabinoids and their effects on skin were little understood.

Yet scientists have found that our own body creates chemical agents that are not only similar to those of cannabis but play a crucial role in keeping skin healthy. Known as endocannabinoids—because they are synthesized by “animals” as opposed to produced by plants like the cannabis (phytocannabinoids) —these active compounds have been shown to have many effects on skin. Scientists observed that endocannabinoids are involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes (the cells of the epidermis), which job is to produce compounds critical to the outermost layer of skin. Studies suggest the importance of endocannabinoids in cell growth and wound healing, demonstrating their anti-inflammatory properties. Advanced impairment of the cannabinoid system may have a role in the development of autoimmune diseases.

In other words, cannabinoids matter greatly, and as our body responds to the cannabinoids it creates or is introduced to, the role and importance of cannabis in wellness and skin care, many say, seemingly wins legitimacy.

CELL GROWTH Page 106 • lneonline.com

WOUND HEALING

AUTOIMMUNE SYSTEM Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

“Inspired by nature... Realized by science.”

Vitamin C + Plant & Fruit Stem Cells + Peptides + Botanicals & Essential Oils

(Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate)

Always in High Concentrations.

Experience Age Defying Results.

LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce .co m May 2015 April 2015 •• Les Les Nouvelles Nouvelles Esthétiques Esthétiques & & Spa Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #107 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 107

organic & wellness | hashing it out

DID YOU KNOW?

ABOUT THE HIGH Hemp and CBD oils only contain traces of THC. In addition, in order for that psychoactive effect to take place the plant must be ingested or smoked—therefore their use as topical ingredients will not produce a high.

WHAT’S IN A NAME? Pot, weed, reefer, hashish, dope, bud, grass, ganja… and marijuana? Perhaps the term marijuana originated from the names Maria and Juana, or it became “Spanishized” from the Chinese word for the plant, “ma ren hua.” Ganja is simply the Sanskrit name for the plant.

Hashish comes from the Arab word for grass… and the rest, let’s just say that they are a testament of this multifaceted plant.

THE UNITED (CONFUSED) STATES OF CANNABIS? Cannabis is illegal under the federal Controlled Substances Act. The Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) classifies cannabis as a Schedule I Drug.

However, in 2013 the Justice Department said it would not challenge state laws that legalize cannabis, focusing instead on serious trafficking cases and other priorities.

GREY AREAS Despite the newly legalized status of the plant in some states, there are no state government agencies that regulate the use of cannabis in a spa or salon setting. According to Colorado State Laws, adults 21 and older may possess one ounce of cannabis for personal use and may transfer it to (or share) another adult without compensation.

In the context of Martelli’s spa and her use of cannabis, the lines become blurry, yet seemingly remain within the

TAKEAWAY As pro-cannabis partisans continue to push for the legalization of the plant, and as more states reform their cannabis laws, the plant’s budding popularity in the wellness industry can only

grow. Keep an eye on this ingredient many vouch for, as its use within the spa (and regulations that come with it) are bound to be better defined in the near future. n

law. “We know we’re operating in a grey area, we know we’re taking a risk,” Martelli says.

For Martelli, a Florida entrepreneur and self-declared cannabis user who saw an opportunity for a niche market and made the move to invest in a spa (with a twist), the chance was well worth it. “What we’re trying to do is help people,” Martelli says, “I believe in it and I want to educate people on what cannabis can do.”

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com.

Page 108 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

THE LOOK OF

AGELESS BEAUTY Nothing says youthful beauty like dramatic lashes and bold brows.

Get the look at revitalash.com 877.909.5274

RevitaLash Advanced not available in California. ©2014 Athena Cosmetics, Inc. ®

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #346 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 109

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

cooling cucumber

Visit LNEonline.com for more news

Clairvoyant Beauty’s Cooling Cucumber Mask is a nourishing rescue mask that features natural ingredients, soothes skin and reduces puffiness, says the company. A rich dose of aloe vera helps deliver oxygen to the surface and provides an instant cooling sensation when applied.

888.758.1270 clairvoyantbeauty.com

POWER TRIO Éminence Organic Skin Care introduced its collection for Combination Skin that includes its Balancing Masque Duo, Balancing Moisturizer Duo, and Rice Milk 3 in 1 Cleansing Water. Ingredients like buchu leaf extract, charcoal and willow bark deep clean and refine pores in the T-Zone area, while rice milk and shea butter moisturize.

C

M

888.747.6342 eminenceorganics.com

Y

CM

MY

CY

botanical goodness Goldfaden MD presents Fleuressence Native Botanical Cell Oil, an elixir treatment formula that targets dry, aging skin, says the company. Combining a blend of pure active botanicals, fruit extracts and natural oils, the elixir penetrates skin, boosts moisture levels and improves skin cell revitalization.

954.963.5090 goldfadenmd.com

energy water Vita Juwel’s Grand Fontana unique gemwater fountain holds a full gallon of water and is a delight to spa guests, says the company. The key feature is a unique, handcrafted vial, filled with real, precious gems. A functional stand is included. It’s simply jewelry for your water with the power of gems.

925.291.7490 vitajuwel.com

Page 110 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

CMY

K

you• saw in LNE & Spa and circle&#305 MaySay 2015 Les itNouvelles Esthétiques Spa on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 111

Let’s Talk

MAKEUP With Amanda Lemmage Owner of Skingevity Spa, Long Lake, Minn.

Amanda Lemmage has more than 17 years of experience in the spa and salon industry. With a background in interior design, Lemmage went on to train at the Aveda Institute in Minneapolis. She is now the owner of Skingevity Spa. “As a spa director, I feel it is crucial to have an advanced makeup line in the spa. It gives clients the finishing touch after their service, instead of walking out of the spa embarrassed to go out in public.”

IMPLEMENTING MAKEUP INTO A SPA When did you decide to implement makeup into your spa?

Once we had our grand opening and realized we needed to implement makeup [into the spa].

How did you do it?

Our [vendor] rep […] initially brought us a makeup touch up compact display. The response from clients was fantastic.

Where is your makeup area located in the spa?

Our new […] makeup display is located in our front lobby in our retail area close to our waiting area. It is advantageous because there is a lot of traffic coming in to our lobby. The track lighting really sets off the makeup display, as well as brings attention to it.

THE LINE How did you select your makeup lines?

We were looking for an anti-aging unique and advanced makeup line.

Page 112 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

received services. I feel it is due to the feel of getting that bombshell look after a relaxing service.

ciate. It creates interest to the [vendor’s] product line.

REVENUE COMPOSITION

PROMOTION

What are the most popular retail items?

Our top sellers are [lip plumpers] and [dark circle erasers] and of course [red lipstick].

THE SERVICES What kind of makeup services do you offer on the menu?

We offer a personal makeup consultation, a full makeover, and the option of a makeup application with purchase of retail product.

Which service is the most popular?

Our most popular service is the makeup touch up after clients have

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

How do you promote your makeup services?

We love to have seasonal launch parties at our spa to introduce the new trends for the upcoming season. Our clients feel pampered and enjoy becoming familiar with the makeup and skin care products we offer. We also love to share new products on our Facebook page and on Instagram.

Clients get excited when they see the benefits of the best selling products.

How profitable are makeup services?

Surprisingly our makeup sales are continually increasing. The line sells itself as [it] has catered to specific needs of aging skin!

Where does makeup rank in your spa revenue composition?

Makeup ranks third in line with our revenue composition holding strong with the hopes of increasing with new product launches. n

Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment?

Yes, estheticians as well as hair artists are trained to do a complimentary makeup touch up after every service.

It is the final touch that clients appre-

lneonline.com • Page 113

MAKEUP: PAMELA TAYLOR HAIR: ERNESTO AQUINO FOR TRES JOLIE FASHION STYLIST: STEVEN GATEZ

CHANGE IN TODAY’S EVERCHANGING WORLD OF FASHION, CHANGE IS ABOUT THE VISION TO RECREATE - PAMELA TAYLOR

PHOTOGRAPHED BY

MUHAMMAD SAMI

SUNSET

On the eyes: Pure primary yellow shadow is applied to the inner third of the eye, then used as a contour when blended with a taupe shading powder for the nose. A soft shade of smoky gray shadow is applied to the outer crease and then blended toward the outer lid. Lips are enlarged using a neutral lip pencil, then painted with a caramel glaze gloss.

MASCARA: THEY’RE REAL! B Y BENEFIT

LIPS: JUICY TUBES SMOOTHIE B Y LANCÔME (IN SUN BRONZE)

SLEEK

Clean and understated. Following an application of powder foundation, cheeks are highlighted in a pearl crème powder. Brows are gently enhanced using a warm taupe brow powder. A cluster of artificial lashes is applied toward the outer third of the lash line. A soft sweep of liner is applied against the upper lash line, and swept outward toward the outer part of the lid. A bisque-pink lip color is blended to match the skirt.

FOUNDATION: PROBASE B Y MAKEUP, INC

EYE LINER: LA LIGNE D E CHANEL (NOIR-LAME)

Pamela Taylor is an internationally recognized authority on print and fashion makeup. For information, visit PAMELATAYLOR.COM

BY

Michael Bruggeman

M

LEARN ABOUT

persona grooming attire lifestyle

arket intelligence across industries and global boundaries intersect to say: men represent a significant growth opportunity in every retail and service sector, especially spa! So why have so few spas been successful in growing their men’s business?

According to Euromonitor International, the men’s grooming category in the United States was valued at 6.1 billion in 2013, despite the fact that the shaving subcategory fell by one percent for the first time in history.

More significant was the news that toiletries (non shaving grooming products including skin care) surpassed the shaving subcategory for two years straight, now holding 53 percent of the market. The shaving and skin care statistics make perfect sense given that we are seeing a lot more hair in the spa. We’re seeing so much in fact, that the metrosexual seems to be morphing into an axe wielding Paul Bunyan, giving rise to a brand new portmanteau, the lumbersexual.

Page 118 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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DID HE EMERGE BECAUSE WORK LIFE HAS EVOLVED TO THE POINT WHERE MEN HAVE FEW OPPORTUNITIES TO DEMONSTRATE VIRILITY, A BACKLASH AGAINST THE BLURRING OF GENDER ROLES?

Page 120 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

image | modern man

context

WHO IS THE

LUMBERSEXUAL?

The lumbersexual has been a long time in the making. His predecessor, the retrosexual, was also the antithesis of the pristinely appointed metrosexual. Retrosexuals by definition are fascinated by all things traditional and timeless, including the classic barber experience, the wet shave. Think of Humphrey Bogart, a tailored, well-groomed man who spends time on looking good. The retro-on-steroids lumbersexual term first appeared in 2008 in an entry in Urban Dictionary.

LUMBER Casual, yet sophisticated; uninterested in glitz and glam, yet can be seen sporting the latest technology; appears unkempt, yet takes time to achieve the look.

RETRO Idolizes the classic and refined. Loves nostalgia, and respects and emulates role models of the past.

GROOMING From scruff to full beard.

Ranges from neatly trimmed to au naturel.

GROOMING Neatly groomed. Facial hair, if any, is calculated.

GROOMING Equates labels and appearance with status. Is secure in his masculinity and undaunted by being mistaken as gay. In fact, he may take it as a compliment.

Little facial hair, clean, professional, wellgroomed appearance.

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Yet it was not until October of 2014, that the esthetic coalesced in an article titled, “The Rise of the Lumbersexual,” in lifestyle blog GearJunkie. The article published photos of celebrities and models sporting the new outdoor look—attractive, rugged men with beards, denim, flannel and leather boots, carrying their favorite Apple device. The term began to spread like wildfire in an attempt to understand this new iteration of man.

AT T I R E Wardrobe stereotypically includes flannel. Prefers quality over label. Is able to sport a casual, yet put together outdoors look.

AT T I R E Form fit and/or vintage fashion. Classic labels. A look that has evolved into the hipster style of today.

AT T I R E The hottest new trends and/or designer labels.

Ultimate coordination of color and texture.

Individualized and precision-honed ensembles.

LIFEST YLE Professional who appreciates quality, simplicity and the story, the meaning behind the brand— craft beers, mom and pop American made, organic and cottage-farmed food.

LIFEST YLE Young urban professional, well-appointed but definitively NOT metrosexual.

Distinct appreciation for nostalgia and the past.

LIFEST YLE Is often out and about, enjoys being seen.

Successful, hard working and hard playing.

Calculated aficionado of the finer things in life with the intent to boost status and/or professional image. lneonline.com • Page 121

image | modern man Indeed, the lumbersexual defies one-size-fits-all definitions. Did he emerge because work life has evolved to the point where men have few opportunities to demonstrate virility, a backlash against the blurring of gender roles? Is his look an expression of environmentalism and desire to

SPA IMPLICATIONS AND

preserve what is important in the world around him? Is he a reflection of a desire to live a more casual, thoughtful and less capitalistic lifestyle? Regardless of his motivations, from a global perspective both he and the trend have distinct implications for spa.

STRATEGIES

THE BEARD Few estheticians and ser vice providers feel comfor table working with a man’s facial hair, and are unsure of what to do with the skin below.

Conduct the facial treatment and apply product as you would with any gentleman having no facial hair, including cleansers, exfoliants, masks, serums and moisturizers.

Avoid clay-based products and physical exfoliants. They are difficult to remove. Chemical exfoliants are extremely beneficial for the skin under the beard, as are all products.

When cleansing, make note of the direction of the beard growth. Always massage in the direction of growth to avoid irritation. This will sometimes be counterintuitive, as certain beard areas grow downward.

Two thumbs up for including barber services in accessible urban spas. Two thumbs down for resort spas where men want to relax. In resort settings, barber services may work episodically with groom’s packages, or there may be a substantial residence population or member base interested in the service.

O U R

tips NATURAL / ORGANIC PRODUCTS Lumbers are interested in the outdoors, health, fitness and clean food sources in and on their bodies.

Get into juicing, especially greens and roots.

Choose natural products. Green chemistry is here to stay, and cheaper synthetic alternatives will soon be a thing of the past.

Emphasize the story behind farm-to-table food items.

Market “green chemistry” and results in your menu’s treatment descriptions.

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image | modern man

THE LOOK Despite first impressions, lumbersexuals spend a good deal of time curating the perfect lumberjack look.

Consider beard maintenance and shaving products.

Trimmers and male grooming appliances are on the rise.

Provide a selection of male-centric products in masculine packaging, not just 5-7 SKUs from a women’s line. Make it worth his while to shop.

Man up your manis and pedis, services which provide a spa orientation and access point to other departments.

O U R

tips PRODUCTS AND SERVICES Lumbers demand meaning and substance in the products and services they choose. Intention behind the design of the physical spa, spa management, treatment design and product selection is crucial.

Treatment and menu descriptions must be substantive.

Hype and rituals for the sake of rituals will turn him off.

Call out socially responsible and ethically sourced products. Tell the story.

Emphasize made in America, mom and pop brands with meaning.

Page 124 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

with spa business forum

May 30 May 31 June 1 2015

Esthetics

Anti-Aging

Wellness

Education Days

May 30 & 31, June 1 Medesthetics

Exhibit Floor

Open May 31 & June 1 Massage Therapy

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Connect with us

the beauty industry’s most important show delivering the education you need to succeed For more information and to register, visit www.premieredayspa.biz or call 800.335.7469 May 2015 April 2015 •• Les Les Nouvelles Nouvelles Esthétiques Esthétiques & & Spa Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #194 on reader service card

TM

Beauty Industry Professionals and Students Only lneonline.com • Page 125

image | modern man

RETAIL The men’s movement has arrived—man’s search for meaning. Blurred gender roles, stay at home dads and shattered glass ceilings have called into question the very definition of what it means to be a man. Retail has segmented marketing and sales to men for years. Spas are decades behind.

Segment, segment, segment!

Curate a retail section that draws him in. He now stands outside the door, afraid to cross the threshold. Consider imagery choices on web sites, social media and point of sale. Where’s the man?

The spa is historically feminine and firmly rooted in a female image. Capturing the attention of men requires a rethinking of the paradigm. It’s time to create a new male inclusive spa culture and experience.

Develop a print and digital men’s menu using male language. Get rid of the word “facial.”

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #131 on reader service card

Train staff to sell men’s esthetics services. Emphasize the massage elements of the treatment. The conversation with men versus women is as different as night and day.

In the spa, we are great at the quick fix—superficial, non-committal change. If revenue growth is an objective, it makes sense to get serious about men.

Capturing the attention of men requires a complete paradigm shift—a total operational rethinking of how we market and deliver spa products and services to men, whether lumber, retro, metro or other. That means total team transformation—from locker room attendant to reception to treatment professional, spa management and ultimately spa ownership.

This sale is tough when men represent only eight percent of the global cosmetics industry, and on average 30 percent of spa business.

Would you rather spend your time and energy continuing to compete for the attention of the 92 percent of the global cosmetics industry who already know spa, or go after the market that all data confirms has the greatest potential for spa revenue growth in history? I know where I’m placing my bet! n

Michael Bruggeman is the COO of NaturalBeautyGroup.com, and has 22 years of experience in strategic planning, marketing, operations and human resources functions. For the past 11 years, he has owned and operated a destination inn and spa in La Conner, Wash. In 2008, Bruggeman founded Organic Male OM4. He is delighted to join his fellow spas and resource partners on the journey to sustainability as a GSN board member.

Page 126 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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NAILED IT SpaRitual announces the release of Step Up the nail lacquer in honor of its partnership with Step Up, the nonprofit organization dedicated to empowering under-privileged girls. The bold eccentric redorange combination matches the brand’s colors, says the company.

818.988.2228 sparitual.com

NUTRI BALM Lip Renewal by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts is a signature anti-aging lip moisturizer. It’s formulated with a progressive blend of age defying peptides, shea butter, cocoa butter and green tea extract to help soften and smooth the texture of the lips by boosting collagen synthesis, says the company.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

800.689.0499 arcskincare.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news

ACCENTUATE OFRA Cosmetics launched its Professional Contouring and Highlighting Cream Foundation Palette. A perfect addition to any makeup artist’s kit, says the company, it comes with six pigmented colors suitable for all skin tones.

877.652.9888 ofracosmetics.com

RADIANCE AND GLOW Matis Paris’ Réponse Teint Quicklift Foundation is a true anti-aging beauty serum with a smoothing and plumping effect, says the company. The 2 in 1 makeup and beauty care features hyaluronic acid filling spheres, Quick’lastine, and light reflecting mother of pearl.

972.771.0300 myrdm.com

Page 128 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2015

latest launch Pevonia introduces its YouthRenew Tinted Cream SPF 30, a 5 in 1 daily defense cream, says the company. Its potent ingredients such as marine collagen, sea whip extract, vitamin C, green olive extracts, and shea butter hydrate, conceal and protect against the sun, all while repairing lines and wrinkles.

pevoniapro.com

makeup station Veeco Salon Furniture and Design’s Redman Stainless Steel Makeup Station features tool holders, tissue dispenser slots and glass jars on each side. Each station also features two Hollywood style makeup light bars.

Cuccio Colour introduces three new shades: Making Waves, a deep ocean blue; Hearts of Fire, a bright iridescent red; and Love and Purple, a sweet mauve.

800.762.6245 cuccio.com

soft cleanser Guinot launches its new Eye Makeup Remover, a combination of two different liquids that remove waterproof makeup and then oil, leaving the eyes grease-free, says the company. Featuring allantoin and cornflower extract, the remover reduces eye puffiness and firms skin.

212.532.1030 guinotusa.com

May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

novel shades

Image News

312.666.0900 veecosalonfurniture.com

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ADVERTISER INDEX Page Number

Reader Service No.

57............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 85............... Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 28............... Beau Institute Of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 8................. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 71............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................. 335 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 92............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 84............... Carefree Naturals / Rubber Ducky.......................... rubberduckysunscreen.com............................................. 317 126............. Cils France.............................................................. cilsfrance.net................................................................... 131 67............... Circadia................................................................... circadia.com.................................................................... 101 132............. Dermapenworld...................................................... dermapenworld.com....................................................... 136 75............... DIVI International Company.................................... diviusa.com..................................................................... 241 90............... Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro Usa............................................................ equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 21............... Farmhouse Fresh..................................................... farmhousefreshgoods.com.............................................. 181 73............... France Laure........................................................... francelaure.com............................................................... 199 69............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 31............... Grandelash - Md..................................................... grandelash-md.com........................................................ 286 5................. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 63............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 83............... Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 96,97.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach........... longbeach.skincareshows.com 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 123............. Lira Clinical.............................................................. liraclinical.com................................................................. 203 107............. Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 89............... PFB Vanish.............................................................. pfbvanish.com................................................................. 229 82............... Postquam................................................................ postquamusa.com........................................................... 177 124............. Premiere DaySpa Show........................................... premieredayspa.biz......................................................... 194 29............... Regenesis................................................................ revitalash.com/regenesis-hair........................................... 346 127............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 76,77.......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 109............. Revitalash................................................................ revitalash......................................................................... 346 25,27.......... Satin Smooth........................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................. 304 17............... Shira Esthetics......................................................... shiraesthetics.com........................................................... 249 72............... Skin Elegance.......................................................... skinelegance.com............................................................ 100 59............... Sothys..................................................................... sothys-usa.com.com........................................................ 306 111............. TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 19............... Vivant...................................................................... vivantskincare.com.......................................................... 282 93............... Weight Loss For Spas.............................................. weightlossforspas.com..................................................... 339

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims.

Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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May 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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Re-write history with Dermapen 3™ creates millions of fractional micro-channels in the skin. The body's natural response is to renew and repair the damage.

With no injections, heat or downtime, Dermapen 3™ is safe on all skin colours to treat an array of skin conditions.

Dermapen 3™’s Advanced Oscillating Vertical Needling (AOVN™) technology allows the pen to harmoniously glide over the skin with precise automation. Discomfort is significantly reduced, whilst the absorption of active treatment products is maximised.

Unlike ablative or thermolytic technologies that destroy the epidermis, Dermapen 3™’s fractional rejuvenation leaves the epidermis intact, reducing negative side effects and downtime.

Unlike laser, IPL or aggressive chemical peels there is no scabbing, grazing, bruising or crusting of the skin.

Procedures may be performed in as little as 30 minutes with the skin’s repair cascade continuing for up to two years – even after just one treatment.

Many doctors, including Dr. Hasan Fakahany of Egypt, say Dermapen™ has helped them treat the signs of: • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Ageing Fine lines & wrinkles Sun damage Hyperpigmentation Age spots Acral vitiligo Rosacea Dilated capillaries Breakouts Acne Enlarged pores Milia Scars Stretch marks

Visit for more information.

Call: (954) 900-5901 | Email: info@dermapenworld.com.

Or Call Us Toll Free: 1 (844) 4-DERMAPEN Dermapen™, DPDermaceuticals™ Range, AOVN™ and DermapenWorld.com™ are trademarks of Equipmed Australia.

283 Mona Vale Road, Terrey Hills, NSW, 2084, Australia. EQUDPE2011a. 01/15.

Trauma scar Result after 3 sessions Courtesy of Dr. Hasan Fakahany

Acne scarring Result after 1 treatment Courtesy of Dr. Abbas Al-Taiff

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