LNE & Spa - October 2015

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals October 2015

$7.50

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

ASK THE EXPERT:

Experience the New VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels by Éminence Q&A

Lisa Wensley LICENSED ESTHETICIAN

How does this product enhance the results from using the existing VitaSkin™ products?

What sets the VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels apart from other peels in the industry?

Using the Éminence VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels will

Éminence took the simplicity of an already existing,

accelerate the results you have achieved with the Firm,

custom designed VitaSkin™ solution and made it easy

Bright, Calm, and Clear VitaSkin™ solutions. Your

for the esthetician and consumer to categorize based

skin may have plateaued and need a bit more from the

on skin type. These Firm, Bright, Calm, and Clear

existing ingredients that have been clinically proven to

VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels were formulated on the

work. Using this product is an effective way to exfoliate

success of the results-oriented ingredients that our

the skin through a consistent routine at home and

body recognizes and is able to utilize without going

when combined with professional treatments, you’ll

in and altering cellular function.

see better results than ever before.

What are the benefits of peeling “the natural way” with all-natural ingredients?

This doesn’t actually “peel” my skin – how do I know it’s working?

You don’t need to see the peeling or exfoliation to know the ingredients are working. Every skin type has

Using natural ingredients to topically treat the skin

a varying degree of thickness, causing every person

has already been clinically proven within the Éminence

to react differently to skin care ingredients. One

VitaSkin™ solutions. The VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels

may feel the peel more during certain seasons of the

contain naturally occurring acids that offer superior

year, or experience the sensation differently based

re-texturizing, resurfacing, brightening, calming and

on medications, hormones, treatments and/or other

antibacterial results. They offer a gentle, effective

products they’ve used previously. Peels will typically

way to lightly exfoliate the skin on a consistent basis

have a tightening effect over the course of a few days,

without causing any downtime. Nature and science

and may also show signs of redness and flaking during

come together to create beautifying results!

this time, which is normal as the cells rapidly turn over. Keeping your skin cool and giving it time to adjust will give you the best desired results.

Introducing Results-Oriented Exfoliating Peels for Every Skin Type

F I R M SKI N AC AI EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Aging Skin

B R IGHT SKI N LICOR ICE ROOT EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Hyperpigmented Skin

C ALM SKI N CHAMOM I LE EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Sensitive Skin

CLEAR SKI N WI LLOW BAR K EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Acne Prone Skin

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic® skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.

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V o lume 30

Numb e r 10

CONTENTS ORGANIC & WELLNESS

SKIN Sleep Tight, Rise and Shine!

Berry the Wrinkles!

Double Up Skin News

10 16 22 28

The Business of Salt 94 Into the Woods 104 Organic & Wellness News 114

Into the Woods page 104

Sleep Tight, Rise and Shine! page 10

SPA

Brow-High Beauty

30 42 54

Spa of the Month Tibetan Therapy Spa News

page 120

IMAGE Let’s Talk Makeup with Laura Anne Pelliccio Brow-High Beauty Image News

BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Dawn Tardif Partnering Prescription Business News

58 60 68

118 120 128

EXTRAS VINOTHERAPY GUIDE Vinotherapy: The Rundown 70 The Power of Polyphenols 73 Red Wine Revelation 77 It’s Wine O’Clock!

83 Vinotherapy Photo Feature 90

From the Editor The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia Preview Advertiser Index

6 35 130

Vinotherapy Guide page 69

Cover Jean Louis David, 2015

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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from the

editor

October is here, and it’s time for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa’s last trade show of 2015!

Following the enthusiastic turnout and fantastic energy in Long Beach last month, we are looking forward to meeting our East Coast friends on October 25 and 26 at the Pennsylvania Convention Center for our final conference of 2015!

Don’t miss your last chance of the year to come together with your peers and learn about the latest trends in our industry, with all new Main Stage presentations, conferences, demonstration stages, product-focused training and an exhibitor floor filled with the latest products!

With this month’s guide, learn how the delights of wine can be incorporated into your skin care treatments. Everything you need to know about the topical properties and benefits of vinotherapy and its by-products is right here, with great ideas on how to utilize this intoxicating ingredient in your treatment room!

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Also this month, learn about the benefits of double masking, KuNye massage, salt therapy, forest bathing and other avant-garde spa trends in the latest issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa.

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wet/dry

microdermabrasion

On a final note, I want to recognize Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and commend the generous support so many of you provide to this worthy cause.

Enjoy the beautiful last days of fall and I look forward to seeing you in Philadelphia!

with 4 manually applied solutions

october 2015

REV080515

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—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com

Success Education • Equipment • Products BT will be with you every step of the way.

REV080515

bio-therapeutic.com | october 800.971.6259 LNEonline.com | 2015 | 7 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, Florida 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com email: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@lneonline.com Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@lneonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@lneonline.com

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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

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ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontr ibutors Caroline Canetti

Christina Milton

Christiane Waldron

Trina DuBois

César Tejedor

Margot White

Rachel Davita Harris

Alex R. Thiersch

Amanda Clinton Winter

Boldijarre Koronczay

Shawn Towne

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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Visit our website: www.ladyburd.com LNEonline.com

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Sleep Tight, Rise AND

Shine!

Day and Nighttime Skin Care:

What’s the Difference?

by Christiane Waldron

W

hat’s the difference between a day cream and a night cream? Why do we need to use specific products overnight and others during the day? Many of our clients are confused about what should be part of their skin care regime for each part of the day, or if they should use separate products for day and night at all.

Some may say it’s all the same, arguing that skin is skin. However there are real differences in the ways our bodies and organs behave during the day versus the night.

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SKIN

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SLEEP TIGHT, RISE AND SHINE!

Daytime Skin and Body Functions The daytime hours are when most of us are awake and active. At this time, skin is exposed to numerous enviornmental and internal stressors, including the following:

- UVA and UVB rays that accelerate aging

- Hot or cold weather, which leads to water loss

- Air conditioning in the sum-

mer or indoor heating during the winter, which accelerates trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)

- Environmental pollution and free radical attacks

- Increased levels of the stress

hormone cortisol, which is responsible for inflammation and can cause the breakdown of collagen and hyaluronic acid

“It’s understandable that many clients are skeptical of skin’s different needs during day and night, and may believe the philosophy is merely a marketing strategy.”

Nighttime Skin and Body Functions Sleep and circadian rhythm have been studied intensely. The term “beauty sleep” exists for good reason. After a solid night’s sleep, skin looks more luminous and plump. It’s important to understand that the skin’s rhythm is associated with the sleep rhythm.

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Here are a few ways that sleep benefits skin:

- Cortisol levels drop at night,

which in turn reduces inflammation and allows for improved collagen production.

-

Blood flow increases and is better distributed throughout the body, which in turn oxygenates cells for repair.

- Growth hormones increase

during sleep, which allows the body to repair damaged cells at the DNA level.

-

Epidermal cell division is highest at night.

-

Skin is less exposed to changes in temperature and intense UV rays, so it’s not in a defensive mode, and is technically better able to absorb nutrients for increased repair efficiency.

On the downside of skin functions at night, research has shown that transepidermal water loss is significantly increased during the night, drying the skin. This also is the reason that some people experience itching at night.

Striking a Balance Despite the differences in day and nighttime skin and treatments, there are many universal skin care properties that are beneficial and safe for the skin at any time of day.

For example, skin can always benefit from a high concentration of antioxidants to slow aging, day or night, because antioxidants defend against free radical attacks, which come from oxygenation and peroxidation, and externally from environmental pollution.

SKIN

So it’s understandable that many clients are skeptical of skin’s different needs during day and night, and may believe the philosophy is merely a marketing strategy.

However while many ingredients do actually benefit skin either day or night, there are some differences in the best times for using certain ingredients

and product types. As an esthetician, you have the power of influence on your side.

Clients expect you to explain why they must use two or three separate products and what those products are — and you must have an answer ready for them. Here’s a breakdown of the basic day and nighttime dos and don’ts.

DAYTIME Dos

DAYTIME Don’ts

Essential Day Care Products:

- Harsh acids such as those below can

Serum (as a base), light day cream, sunblock, eye cream with SPF, makeup

Daytime product ingredient recommendations:

- Antioxidant power: Vitamin C, ferulic acid, ubiquinol and vitamin E

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SLEEP TIGHT, RISE AND SHINE!

make skin more sensitive to sun exposure (particularly sensitive skin).

- Retinol - Glycolic acid - Azelaic acid

- Skin brightener: Arbutin The day cream should be light and provide just the right amount of moisture without a heavy feel. Layering lighter formulas is advisable, as many people don’t want to wear heavier products that may feel greasy during the day.

The ideal consistency of the day cream depends on the skin type. For oily skin, lighter is better. For dry skin, a more emollient and humectant cream may be best.

In lieu of a sunblock, using a foundation with SPF protection can provide sun protection.

“Clients expect you to explain why they must use two or three separate products and what those products are — and you must have an answer ready for them.”

NIGHTTIME Dos Essential night care products:

- Serum, moisturizer, eye cream The lineup of products recommended for nighttime skin care are very similar to the daytime routine, the only difference being a lack of SPF protection and definitely no makeup.

Due to the increase in TEWL, night creams contain a higher moisture content. That’s because products with a richer, much heavier consistency stay in place longer, provide long lasting hydration, and prevent TEWL from taking a toll on the skin. The following ingredients are well suited to skin’s nighttime needs:

“The ideal consistency of the day cream depends on the skin type. For oily skin, lighter is better. For dry skin, a more emollient and humectant cream may be best.”

- Creams that contain high concentra-

tions of hyaluronic acid keep moisture locked in.

-

Dry oils containing jojoba, avocado, argan and olive can maintain high levels of hydration and increase plumping effect at night.

- Retinol, glycolic and azelaic acid of

varying concentrations can be used for exfoliation and higher cellular turnover.

The ideal concentration of the products selected vary based on skin type and condition.

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SKIN

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SLEEP TIGHT, RISE AND SHINE!

NIGHTTIME Don’t Makeup should never be worn to bed, as free radicals from the environment in the form of pollution remain in the makeup and on the skin when it’s not removed at night.

This may cause collagen breakdown over time, resulting in the development of fine lines and prematurely aged skin.

Also, wearing makeup to bed can prevent the skin from renewing itself naturally at night, causing blackheads, acne and dullness.

Tip for clients!

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A scrub, mask or enzyme peel applied prior to nighttime formulas allows for better penetration of the ingredients’ properties.

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Retail and Home care So should you carry day and night creams in your line of retail products? Yes! You may also carry multiple lines to cater to a diverse clientele with different skin needs.

Talk to your skin care providers about the distinctions in their formulas. Make sure you are providing your skin care clients with the best ingredients to help beautify their complexions during every hour of the day! n

Christiane

Waldron

is

the founder and CEO of Jenetiqa. Waldron formulates products that address all signs of age, and believes that early prevention and an excellent daily routine are the secrets to beautiful, healthy skin. For more information, visit jenetiqa. com or contact her at Christiane.waldron@jenetiqa.com.

Please visit us at ICES Philadelphia Show at Booths # 422 & 424

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Berry the

Wrinkles!

Nurture the Skin with Ellagic Acid

by Margot White

E

llagic acid is a naturally occurring polyphenol compound produced by plants from the hydrolysis of tannins. It boasts an unusually high antioxidant activity even at low concentrations, allowing it to effectively reduce the production of free radicals. Its antioxidant properties also enable it to protect the skin against oxidative stress and sun damage.

Research indicates that this potent antioxidant has benefits that go way beyond skin deep, possibly even containing anti-cancer properties. For the purposes of the spa and skin care industry, this article focuses specifically on the advantages for the skin. Let’s look at some of the latest exciting research on both human skin and mice that supports an abundance of benefits to skin, including skin brightening, collagen protection, sun protection and anti-inflammatory effects.

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SKIN

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BERRY THE WRINKLES

Brightening Effect Ellagic acid can have a lightening effect on skin, as it inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin. Results of recent studies examining topical products with ellagic acid support its skin brightening capacity.

In one such study, the results of two products were compared. One product contained 0.5% ellagic acid + 0.1% salicylic acid, and its efficacy was compared with that of a generic product containing 4% hydroquinone, an ingredient known for its skin lightening powers.

Fifty-four subjects used one of these formulations twice daily for 12 weeks, and the product with ellagic acid provided a skin depigmentation benefit comparable to 4% hydroquinone.

Anti-Aging Impact Ellagic acid is also a great wrinkle barrier, as research supports its key antiaging properties.

Research findings by researchers in the laboratories of Dr. Young-Hee Kang at Hallym University in the Republic of Korea revealed that topical applica-

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tion of ellagic acid prevents two major causes of wrinkles and aged-looking skin: the destruction of collagen and inflammation. The studies were conducted on both human skin cells and mice.

The study on human skin revealed that ellagic acid works to protect against UV damage by blocking production of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), enzymes that break down collagen. It also reduced the expression of a molecule known as ICAM, which is involved in inflammatory reactions.

The researchers utilized 12 hairless mice (genetically bred for dermatology studies because of mice and human skin’s physiological similarities) for the animal study.

“There is evidence to

B E ST

Ellagic Acid Sources • Wild strawberries • Blackberries • Raspberries • Cranberries • Cloudberries (wild orange berries that grow in Scandanavia, Canada and Alaska) • Pomegranate • Myrtaceae fruits (this family of fruits includes exotic selections such as

support the theory

jabuticaba, cambuci, Surinam

that inflammatory skin

cherries, guava, camu camu)

disorders may benefit from the topical application of ellagic acid.”

• Walnuts • Pecans • Beefsteak fungus

Beauty Science =

great skin

Axp33™ is a third-generation hexapeptide that

utilizes advanced peptide technology to help fight the effects of aging skin. Our groundbreaking formula combines with vitamin C to deliver the perfect balance of skin-enriching benefits that reduce the visible appearance of wrinkles, helps lighten the skin for a brighter complexion, and improves hydration for visibly smoother and firmer skin.

©2015 Professional Products Division. For more information on Satin Smooth products, visit our website: www.satinsmooth.com • 15LI015970

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SKIN

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BERRY THE WRINKLES

For about two months, the rodents were exposed to increasing levels of ultraviolet radiation. Half the mice were given topical applications of ellagic acid, and half were not.

The mice exposed to UV radiation without the ellagic treatment developed wrinkles and thickening of the skin, and the group that received a

topical dose of ellagic acid showed reduced wrinkle formation. Ultimately, the ellagic acid tamed the inflammation response, prevented collagen from degrading and skin from thickening.

These results indicate that ellagic acid works to prevent wrinkle formation and photo-aging caused by UV destruction of collagen and inflammation.

There is evidence to support the theory that inflammatory skin disorders may benefit from the topical application of ellagic acid.

One study with mice examined the topical application of a standardized pomegranate rind extract and ellagic acid, which resulted in a reduction of ear edema.

This promising research demonstrates that ellagic acid clearly has valuable skin care properties.

Consider incorporating ellagic acid based products into your treatments, and encourage your clients to round out their diets with delicious superfoods containing this powerful element! Check out our sidebar on the previous page for top sources of this skin care wonder. n

SOURCES: Antioxidant in Berries Stops Wrinkles. Natural News. (2009) Retrieved from http://www.naturalnews.com/026124_skin_berries_antioxidant.html#ixzz3jONX2OzZ Ellagic Acid: Effects + Scientific Research. Wisderm. (2014). Retrieved from http://wisderm.com/ingredients/Ellagic+Acid

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NEVER LET ANYTHING DULL YOUR

EYES...BROWS...LIPS No ONE KNOWS GLAMOUR LIKE GRANDE KNOWS GLAMOUR

w w w. g r a n d e l a s h m d . c o m | Ava i l a b l e at S a l o n s a n d S pa s 1 . 8 7 7 . 8 3 5 . 3 0 1 0 Visit Us At ICES Philadelphia, PA Booth #519 & ISPA Las Vegas, NV Booth #319 LNEonline.com

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DOUBLE UP Target or layer masks for the best skin treatment possible

by Boldijarre Koronczay

T

he concept of “double masking� has become a trending topic in skin care. Double masking is a new term for a long-standing secret method used by estheticians, coined to define two different techniques that maximize the benefits of masking treatments.

Technique 1: Targeted Area Treatment The first double masking technique utilizes two different masks on separate areas of the face simultaneously to address opposing skin concerns, as the face can be made up of different skin care types and conditions. For example, your client may have an oily T-zone, while the rest of their face is dry and prone to dehydration. A hydrating mask could be too rich for the T-Zone, while a clarifying mask could be too drying for the cheeks. In such cases, it makes perfect sense to use targeted products to address the contrasting conditions with different masks for better results.

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SKIN

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DOUBLE UP

Targeted Area Treatment Examples

Layering Dos:

Hormonal acne: Treat the acneic areas with hormone balancing ingredients, and apply a hydrating mask on remaining areas.

Layering any type of mask over an exfoliant or skin stimulant (like a glycolic, lactic, or enzyme-based exfoliant) amplifies the benefits and produces amazing results. The following combinations create positive, effective results:

Combination (i.e. oily T-zone, dry, dehydration prone skin on the rest of the face): Apply a pore refining mask on the T-zone area only, and a moisturizing mask on the cheek area.

Aging skin: Apply wrinkle depth ingredient-based masks on target areas such as the forehead, eye area and folds, and preventative ingredients on other areas.

-

Enzyme exfoliant topped with a hydration mask

- Glycolic exfoliant topped with an anti-aging mask

Technique 2: Layering The second double masking technique is mask layering, in which one mask is layered directly over another.

This technique effectively enhances the benefits of each individual mask, due to the greater variety of nutrition.

Before mask layering, make sure you fully understand each mask’s qualities, and have experience using the mask on different skin types. It’s important to note that certain ingredients are especially beneficial to combine when using the layering technique, and some are ineffective.

Important Tip! For mask layering, start with a light mask and top it off with a richer mask.

This ensures fast absorption and may also help draw the benefits of the second mask deeper into the skin. For example, apply gel-based masks first and then layer with a cream mask. A high anti-inflammatory and antioxidantbased mask should be applied before layering a corrective mask on top.

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- Mandelic exfoliant topped with a pigment inhibitor mask

BIKINI The Safer Choice

In Professional Hair Removal

Nufree® is a non-wax hair removal process that will remove hair from almost any part of the body—virtually pain-free.

Because Nufree® isn’t a wax, clients won’t experience the pain, redness, or swelling that often happens with wax-based products. Scientifically tested, Nufree® is antibacterial and antimicrobial, ensuring that it’s both safe and effective.

Nufree® is so gentle that clients can apply makeup, swim, and tan once finipil® has been applied after their treatment. finipil® our patented* antiseptic lotion cools, soothes, moisturizes and protects the skin while killing germs.

nufree-professionals.com Made in the USA by Equibal Labs ©2015 Equibal Inc. All rights reserved. *US Patent Nos. 8,603,550; 8,951,582 and 8,951,583.

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SKIN

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DOUBLE UP

Maximize Skin Care And Business Benefits

Layering Don’ts: While mask layering amplifies the results when using complementary masks, layering masks with opposing purposes cancels the benefits. This tends to happen when there is uncertainty about the client’s skin type and condition. Make sure you always conduct a proper skin analysis so you can effectively balance the skin type and correct the condition.

The practice of double masking enables you to offer a virtually limitless number of treatments to treat each of your clients, as effective skin care is not “one size fits all.”

Double masking in the treatment room strengthens the customization value of each spa treatment you perform and each home care routine you recommend. It’s also an opportunity to better address your clients’ skin care concerns and educate them on the benefits of the skin care you are using in your treatments, which can help boost your retail business. Incorporate double masking into your treatments today to boost your clients’ results — and your bottom line! n

Avoid the following layering mistakes on two common skin types: Boldijarre Koronczay, President

-

Dry skin with acne. Avoid layering clarifying masks such as oil reducing and bacteria fighting. This combination dries the skin further and increases sensitivity, making it difficult for the skin to receive the bacteria-fighting ingredients.

and Founder of Éminence Organic Skin Care, is an icon of the spa industry, having personally trained more than 250,000 estheticians and spa professionals

-

Oily skin with wrinkles. Avoid using two cream masks here, as this could overwhelm the skin with oils, causing the skin to congest and triggering additional issues.

in the past two decades. As an innovator of the organic movement, Boldijarre was honored with the International Spa Association’s Visionary Award for his lifelong dedication to education and organic wellness.

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A D VA

NC ED

RE

VE

J

U

NA

TIN

G CO m NCEPTSt

adVanced rejuVenating concePts simPLy reVeaLing...

Brighter, radiant, eVen toned skin

with advanced rejuvenating concepts layered peel protocol and Lighten product range.

Tina Zillmann, LE, CLHRP founder of arc skin care

Lighten Product range • • • •

reduce the look of discolorations and dark spots improve skin clarity and radiance enhance resistance against future discolorations Versatile formulations for the face and body

Learn more at ARCSkinCare.com Call toll free 800 689-0499 time-tested Benefits: Before and after patients noted improvements in skin tone and texture, and reduced breakouts, within a 4 week period using Lighten products along with aesthetic peel treatments.

Learn more about our treatment plans and products at arcskincare.com.

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Environmental Warrior The Cell Renew EnviroExpose Repair and Restore Crème from Stemology is an all-natural lotion designed to ready and restore skin pre and/or post-environmental exposure. This product features a unique blend of cell nutrients, antioxidants and antiinflammatory agents to moisturize and protect skin against free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors.

EnviroExpose contains ingredients clinically proven to reduce skin inflammation by 31 percent while simultaneously preventing skin aging and improving skin sensitivity.

866.958.9995 stemologyskincare.com

Quality Ingredients with Quick Results The SparkLING Makeover Mask from LING Skincare is a mask that truly provides a SPARK for tired, lifeless, aged skin. This revolutionary mask provides a cloud of instant oxygen to renew even the most tired complexion. The one mask that does so much in such a short amount of time makes the face feel more contoured and firm. Your client’s complexion will be brighter and appear younger immediately with just one application.

Perfect Blend of Extracts and Oils

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SkinNews

The Organic Regenerating Oil Serum from Blue Beautifly is a powerful age fighter that accelerates the skin’s natural renewal process, resulting in a younger looking complexion.

Delicate extracts of immortelle, calendula, chamomile, and lavender flowers offer antiinflammatory properties while its exquisite oils of sea buckthorn berry, pomegranate, tamanu, black seed, argan, jojoba, camellia seed, coconut, and olive restore the skin’s youthful glow.

510-900-3877 bluebeautifly.com

Go Pure The Effective Anti-Aging Eye Serum from ExPürtise is a new anti-aging skin care line that utilizes innovative skin care technologies while focusing on purity at every step of the formulation process. ExPürtise combines the most advanced, wrinkle-reducing active ingredient technologies with ecocertified organic hydrators, enzymes, botanical extracts and antioxidants to dramatically improve skin in the healthiest, purest way possible.

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888.815.LING(5464) lingskincare.com

800.294.1154 expurtise.com

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Seventh Heaven Infuse 7 from Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals works to strengthen capillaries, repair free radical damage, reduce inflammation, and hydrate skin tissues by infusing the skin with a blend of seven nutrient-rich ingredients. The formula consists of an essential fatty acid complex of linoleic and oleic acids, tocopherols (D-alpha), organic avocado oil, organic macadamia oil, vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil, lavender oil and essential oil complex of bergamont, ylang ylang, sweet orange, and lemon peel. This powerful cocktail of skin enhancing ingredients even has an alluring aroma!

866.313.SKIN (7546) rhondaallison.com

One for All and All in One

203.372.6972 Ecogenics.com

844.4OK.SKIN (844.465.7546) mederusa.com

Home Helper The new Celluma LITE from BioPhotas is designed for clients to use at home between visits. It can be placed over the face to treat skin conditions, and as an added benefit it can conform to the body to ease painful muscle and joint issues. While smaller in size, the Celluma LITE offers the same powerful results as the original Celluma PRO.

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

The Masque EU – SEB from Meder USA is an easy to use, light concentrate developed specifically for skin prone to inflammation and breakouts. Regular use creates conditions for developing healthy skin flora, as when used in conjunction with the hydro gel mask reduces the activity of pathogen microbes and restores “ecoflora” for healthy skin.

Together these products calm the skin, decrease inflammation, regulate sebum, even out complexion and brighten the skin.

SkinNews

Powerful Duo

The Ecogenics Moisturizer is a lightweight velvety cream that combines natural moisturizers such as avocado oil, shea butter and meadowsweet, evening primrose and sweet violet with peptides and ceramides. This multi-functional formula can be used day and night on the face, neck and hands. It is both anti-wrinkle and anti-aging, and softens the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Visit LNEonline.com for more news

714.838.1956 BioPhotas.com

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satiate

senses the

spa de la mer

baccarat hotel & residences new york city, ny

Legacy, elegance and a little bit of magic ‌ the brand new Spa de la Mer at the Baccarat Hotel & Residences in New York City offers memorably indulgent and refined treatments that raise the standards of luxury. Guests will experience only the finest from the French crystal brand Baccarat and the ultimate skin care destination.

by amanda clinton winter

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SPA OF THE MONTH

touchstone of elegance A perfect crystal balances the light and shadows while adding to the textures of a space. In homage to their crystal making tradition, Baccarat Hotel & Residences New York offers French luxury in the heart of Manhattan with a property that offers a modern Manhattan take on the traditional, elegant Parisian establishment. The 250-year-old French crystal maker expanded its opulent legacy into the New York hotel and resort business earlier this year.

décor with elegance and warmth Spacious, yet inviting, the hotel infuses soaring salon-style public spaces with an elegant warmth that complement its 114 rooms and suites. This welcoming introduction instills a calm anticipation of the lavish spa treatments offered at Spa de la Mer. A sparkling mica-covered vaulted ceiling, silver-leafed wood paneling and pleated-silk walls make up the tastefully decorated interior; artisanal Baccarat crystal elements are present throughout the property. Every inch of the Baccarat pleases the eye and arouses a sense of wonder.

urban brilliance The hotel’s 50 elegant stories are a playground for the radiance of Baccarat crystal.

Light reflects and refracts throughout the height of the corridor, balancing the light and offering a luminosity to the eye. Visual enchantment and sophisticated details come together to present a spectacular, yet tastefully decorated interior.

“Manhattan bustles with beauty and luxury, and we are thrilled that now Spa de la Mer is one of the must-visit locales for exceptional beauty treatments and unique, ultra luxurious services,” says Joanne Hsieh, General Manager, International & Spas, La Mer.

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SPA OF THE MONTH

destination: beauty European seaside retreats served as inspira-

champagne and bronze tones, inspired by

White and Jeff Wood. A gift from the sea

tion for Spa de la Mer designed by the Paris-

the signature formula used in the spa’s prod-

known as the sailor’s cure, kelp detoxi-

based Gilles & Boissier. Vaulted tent-like

ucts and rituals.

fies the skin while simultaneously infusing hydration. In addition to energizing treat-

ceilings evoke the essence of sea holidays and the tranquility ever-present beneath the ocean waves. Summoning the serenity

maximized serenity

ments, custom Baccarat crystal sconces line the space, creating an inviting glow to match guests’ new inner and outer glow

of the ocean, this regal metropolitan hide-

inspired by the sea.

away is located two floors below ground,

With only four treatment rooms, Spa de la

allowing for quiet amidst the bustle of the

Mer epitomizes exclusivity. This allows for

city. Directly outside the entrance is a mag-

maximized serenity and a deeper commun-

nificent, 50-foot, black and white marble

ing with the sea’s essence. The treatment

tiled pool a proxy ocean for those longing

area is described as a “gemstone inside

for the water. Along the length of the pool

a vault,” and the gem-themed décor and

Soothing waves of sound and the vibrational

is the cabana area, where inviting beds are

treatments emphasize the luxury of the spa.

energy of tuning forks harmonize mind,

set up below a canopy encouraging guests

Guests will experience a oneness with luxury

body, and skin, completing the scene in

to enjoy an urban haven.

instilled through the tranquility of marine-

each treatment room. The calming energy

inspired décor and treatments.

of the sea is evoked to make each guest’s

evoke the waves

experience magical.

enjoy the pull of the ocean

detoxifying hydration

Upon entering the spa’s reception area,

Furthering the oceanic theme, the walls of

guests are immediately lulled into a peaceful

each treatment room are decorated with a

state of mind by the calming golden ocean

hand-painted abstract mural of sea kelp,

The treatment menu has been crafted with

visual. The design features decadent tex-

the key ingredient in La Mer’s signature

the unique spa menu that harnesses the

tures and a soothing color palette of warm

formula by the New York artists Lynda

healing energies of the sea.

answering the call of the body

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SPA

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SPA OF THE MONTH

transformative facials The spa’s signature treatment is the La Mer Baccarat Facial. One of many transformative facials offered at La Mer, it is a multi-sensorial treatment designed to be ultra-hydrating, while simultaneously soothing and uplifting.

It starts with a cleansing diamond powder exfoliation followed by a facial massage using Baccarat crystals (one red, representing Baccarat—warming and stimulating, and one blue, representing La Mer—calming and soothing). This is topped off with the application of a kelp-based mask. During this enchanting face treatment, the therapist delights the hands and feet with warm towels, followed by a hydrating massage.

(90 minutes, $350)

neptune’s treasure For guests seeking an all-over therapeutic treatment, the La Mer Body Treatment answers that call. Skin is polished and refined with pure diamond powder, leaving it soft, smooth, and supple. A signature blend of stretching, shiatsu, acupressure, and Swedish massage help enhance circulation, balance energies, and encourage an overall sense of well-being. (60 minutes, $200; 90 minutes, $300)

nature’s renewal Massages, body scrubs, wraps and other facials round out the menu of restorative

the rundown

Spa de la Mer at Baccarat Hotel & Resorts 28 West 53rd Street, New York, NY, 10019 +1 202 790 8910 | baccarathotels.com

services offered at La Mer ensuring that every client’s needs are met at this luxuri- Opened in July 2015

- 50-foot swimming pool

- Spa Director: Aylin Baturay

- Elite fitness training facility

- 4 estheticians, 8 massage therapists

- Separate gender locker rooms

Baccarat Hotel and Residences New York will

- 1,669 square feet facility

mark a new era of ultimate luxury, comfort

- 4 treatment rooms

- Client composition is an equal balance between hotel guests, locals, and new clients.

ous underground oasis.

Scott Rohm, President of SH Group, parent company of Baccarat Hotels & Resorts says, “We are confident Spa de la Mer at

and personalized indulgence.” n

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami.

Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

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FEATURING:

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NCEA Certified Prep Class ROOM 306 National Esthetic Teacher Training ROOM 305

MONDAY, OCTOBER 26

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25

MAIN STAGE LECTURES & DEMOS 10:00 AM

OPENING CEREMONY by Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner

10:10 AM

BREATHE BEAUTIFUL (MOTIVATIONAL) by EuGene Gant

STRENGTHENING SPA TREATMENT CUSTOMIZATION WITH DOUBLE MASKING (FACE DEMO) by Boldijarre Koronczay 10:40 AM

11:20 AM

REVOLUTIONIZING SKIN PEELING (LECTURE) by Christine Heathman

11:50 AM

WELCOMED FRICTION: DRY BRUSHING AT THE SPA (BODY DEMO) by Mary Turner

12:30 PM

OUR PERSONAL ECOSYSTEMS: SKIN’S MICROBIOME (LECTURE) by Rebecca Gadberry

10:00 AM

WELCOME CEREMONY by Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner

STRETCH YOURSELF, STRETCH YOUR SALES: YOGIC STRETCHING FOR MAGNETISM (MOTIVATIONAL) by EuGene Gant 10:10 AM

DESIGNER FACIALS FOR YOUR INDIVIDUAL CLIENT’S NEEDS (FACE DEMO) by Bella Schneider 10:40 AM

11:20 AM

SKIN AND AGING: WHAT DO WE REALLY KNOW? (LECTURE) by Michael Pugliese

RESTORING THE FLOW OF ENERGY: “THE KANSA” FACE LIFT (FACE DEMO) by Melanie Sachs 11:50 AM

12:30 PM

CREATE THE ULTIMATE EYELASHES (DEMO) by Ingrid Gagné

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25

CONFERENCES BUSINESS ROOM 108 A 2:00 PM 3:30 PM

RETAIL 2:00 PM 3:30 PM

generate referrals like nobody’s business by Louis Silberman CREATING MEMBERSHIP TO ATTRACT LOCAL CUSTOMERS by Louis Silberman ROOM 108 B

THE CONSULTATION: GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY TO INCREASE SALES & PROFITS by Diane Buccola

BACK BAR: THE SECRET WEAPON FOR RETAIL PROFITABILITY by Diane Buccola

WELLNESS ROOM 107 B 2:00 PM 3:30 PM

CRACKING THE ‘GREEN’ CODE by Mark Wuttke WELLNESS DISSECTED by Mark Wuttke

INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

MONDAY, OCTOBER 26

MARKETING ROOM 108 A 2:00 PM 3:00 PM

TURNING REBATE SHOPPERS INTO LOYAL FULL PRICE CLIENTS by Louis Silberman BANKING ON SOCIAL MEDIA TO OUTDO THE COMPETITION by Louis Silberman

MEDICAL SPA BUSINESS ROOM 108 B 2:00 PM 3:30 PM

EXPANDING YOUR SALON/SPA INTO A MEDICAL SETTING by Alex R. Thiersch HOW TO PARTNER WITH A MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL by Alex R. Thiersch

IMAGE

ROOM 104 B

2:00 PM 3:30 PM

INVESTING IN ILLUSION: 3D BROW-WOW! by Rose Marie Beauchemin BROW EXTENSIONS … AND BEYOND by Meri Mireles

SPA DÉCOR ROOM 107 B 2:00 PM 3:30 PM

TURN YOUR TREATMENT ROOM INTO A HEALING SPACE by Linda Bertaut ENERGY CLEARING TECHNIQUES TO PROTECT YOUR SACRED SPACE by Linda Bertaut

DEMONSTRATION STAGES

MONDAY, OCTOBER 26

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25

STAGE A 2:00 PM 3:30 PM

SPONSORED BY SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY PRESENTED BY STEPHANIE LAYNES

EYEBROW WAXING WITH SE-BRAZIL LATTE WAX & BROW TINT TECHNIQUES

BUILD YOUR SKIN CARE BRAND & PRIVATE LABEL W/ STEPHANIE LAYNES COLLECTION

STAGE B

SPONSORED BY CIRCADIA PRESENTED BY BARBARA WILMOT

STAGE C

SPONSORED BY CANDY COAT BEAUTY PRESENTED BY MELISSA BLACK

STAGE D

SPONSORED BY RHONDA ALLISON PRESENTED BY SHANNON ESAU

STAGE A

SPONSORED BY SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY PRESENTED BY STEPHANIE LAYNES

2:00 PM 3:30 PM 2:00 PM 3:30 PM 2:00 PM 3:30 PM

2:00 PM 3:30 PM

USING ENZYMES & OXYGEN TO TREAT ACNE & ROSACEA THE SCIENCE OF SWICH THE SWEET LIFE: SUGARING MADE EASY THE SWEET LIFE: SUGARING MADE EASY (ENCORE)

MINUS 10 – THE NAME SAYS IT ALL! HOW TO DIFFERENTIATE ROSACEA FROM SENSITIVE SKIN

EYEBROW WAXING WITH SE-BRAZIL LATTE WAX & BROW TINT TECHNIQUES

BUILD YOUR SKIN CARE BRAND & PRIVATE LABEL W/ STEPHANIE LAYNES COLLECTION

STAGE B

SPONSORED BY CIRCADIA PRESENTED BY BARBARA WILMOT

STAGE C

SPONSORED BY CANDY COAT BEAUTY PRESENTED BY MELISSA BLACK

STAGE D

SPONSORED BY RHONDA ALLISON PRESENTED BY SHANNON ESAU

2:00 PM 3:30 PM 2:00 PM 3:30 PM 2:00 PM 3:30 PM

UNDERSTANDING AND APPLYING CIRCADIA’S CHEMICAL PEELS CAUSE AND EFFECTS OF CELLULITE THE SWEET LIFE: SUGARING MADE EASY THE SWEET LIFE: SUGARING MADE EASY (ENCORE) MINUS 10 – THE NAME SAYS IT ALL! UNDERSTANDING VITAMIN A

INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

PRODUCT FOCUSED TRAINING SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25

2:00 - 3:00 PM

Relax AND Wax • Room 102 A

RELAX… LET’S WAX! by Deborah Merhar

Satin Smooth • Room 102 B

INCREASE YOUR BOTTOM LINE – PERFECT YOUR BRAZILIAN WAXING TECHNIQUE by Lonia Campagna

Éminence Organic Skin care • Room 103 A

DISCOVER IMMEDIATE ANTI-AGING RESULTS WITH ORGANIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS by Boldijarre Koronczay

Circadia by Dr. Pugliese • Room 103 B

NEXT GENERATION OF PEPTIDE TECHNOLOGY by Michael Q. Pugliese

Saian Natural Clinical Skin care • ROOM 103 C

NON-SURGICAL FACE LIFT, NECK LIFT, AND COLLAGEN INFUSION THERAPY ACHIEVED THROUGH GALVANIC AND MICROCURRENT TECHNOLOGY AND NATURAL CLINICAL PEPTIDE PRODUCTS by Dasha Saian

Image Skin care • ROOM 104 A

IS YOUR SKIN ON A DIET? by Kimberly Saltrese

DEpilÈve • ROOM 104 B

BROWS TO BRAZILIAN WITH THE LATEST WAXING TECHNIQUES by Deanna Henderson

Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. • ROOM 105 A

REVERSE EFFECT OF MENOPAUSE ON THE SKIN 100% NATURALLY WITH PLANT DERIVED PHYTO-HORMONES by Victoria Tabak

Viktoria DéAnn Peptide Cosmeceuticals • ROOM 105 B

BIOLOGICALLY ACTIVE PEPTIDES AND INSTANT RESULTS FROM A 30-MINUTE EXPRESS FACIAL by Mark Viktora and Darcy Debernarde

HydraFacial MD® – Edge Systems, LLC

• ROOM 106 A HYDRAFACIAL MD HANDS-ON BASIC CERTIFICATION by Salena Deihl

GlyMed Plus • ROOM 106 B

OXYGEN PEELING FOR RESULTS by Sara Lewis

Bio Jouvance Paris, Inc. • ROOM 107 A

MICRONEEDLE FACIAL THERAPY: HOW IT WORKS AND BENEFITS YOUR BUSINESS by Sonia Boghosian

LightStim® • ROOM 109 A

LED LIGHT THERAPY – RESULTS AND REWARDS by Amy Gardner

Repêchage • ROOM 109 B

INTRODUCING REAL PROFESSIONAL SOLUTIONS FOR ROSACEA AND SENSITIVE SKIN by Natalie Otto

DermAware® Bio-Targeted Skin Care • ROOM 110 A

MODERN EXFOLIATION: HANDS ON PEEL PRACTICE CLASS!!! by Gül Ç. Zone

Martinni Beauty, Inc. • ROOM 110 B

FAST $$$ COMES FROM FIXING ALL SKIN IMPERFECTIONS PERMANENTLY IN AESTHETIC by Lana Yu

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25

3:30 - 4:30 PM

Celluma • ROOM 102 A

CELLUMA: MYTHS AND TRUTHS ABOUT LED THERAPY by Brenda B Smith

Satin Smooth • ROOM 102 B

INCREASE YOUR BOTTOM LINE – PERFECT YOUR BRAZILIAN WAXING TECHNIQUE by Lonia Campagna

Éminence Organic Skin Care • ROOM 103 A

EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF HUNGARIAN MASSAGE AND STIMULATING ACTIVES by Boldijarre Koronczay

Starkey Medical Esthetics and dermatology • Room 103 B UNDERSTANDING AND TREATING INFLAMED SKIN by Michele Meinhart, RN, FNP-C

Spaware Software • ROOM 103 C

AUTOMATED MARKETING/FACEBOOK/TWITTER/MEMBERSHIPS… FAST, EASY AND EFFECTIVE by Dori Soukup

Image Skin care • ROOM 104 A

CLINICAL COUTURE DESIGNER PEELS by Kimberly Saltrese

Maxcara • ROOM 104 B

MAXCARA SEMI-PERMANENT LASH TREATMENT by Deanna Henderson

INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. • ROOM 105 A TRUE BREAKTHROUGH IN CELLULITE TREATMENT – NO EQUIPMENT OR SHOWER NEEDED by Victoria Tabak HydraFacial MD® – Edge Systems, LLC • ROOM 106 A HYDRAFACIAL MD HANDS-ON BASIC CERTIFICATION by Salena Deihl

GlyMed Plus • ROOM 106 B

UNDERSTANDING THE SCIENCE OF PEPTIDES by Jessica Cummings

Bio Jouvance Paris, Inc. • ROOM 107 A

THE NATURAL SKIN LIGHTENING TREATMENT WITH GUARANTEED RESULTS by Sonia Boghosian

Sesha Skin Therapy • ROOM 109 A

FEED YOUR SKIN EFFECTIVELY: THE IMPORTANCE OF PROPER ABSORPTION by Phyllis Hsieh

MEG 21 With Supplamine • Room 109 B

MEG 21 WITH SUPPLAMINE TWO PART SPECIAL EDUCATION WORKSHOP FOR FULL SERVICE SKIN AGING AND BUSINESS BUILDING INSIGHTS by Dr. Annette Tobia Ph.D, J.D.

Skin For Life • ROOM 110 B

NEW ADVANCED RETINOLS FROM SKIN FOR LIFE PURE SCIENCE – “DERMESSENTIALS” by Freda Mills

AIA – Dermascope • ROOM 105 B

ONCOLOGY MEDICAL MAKEUP AND AESTHETICS (DEMO) by Carolyn Diamond

MONDAY, OCTOBER 26

2:00 - 3:00 PM

Relax and Wax • ROOM 102 A RELAX… LET’S WAX! by Deborah Merhar

Viktoria DéAnn Peptide Cosmeceuticals •ROOM 102 B

BIOLOGICALLY ACTIVE PEPTIDES AND INSTANT RESULTS FROM A 30-MINUTE EXPRESS FACIAL by Mark Viktora and Darcy Debernarde

Éminence Organic Skin care • Room 103 A

FIGHT ACNE AND ROSACEA ORGANICALLY AND SAY NO TO CHEMICALS by Boldijarre Koronczay

Circadia by Dr. Pugliese • Room 103 B

ESSENTIAL KNOWLEDGE OF VITAMIN PERFORMANCE IN SKIN CARE by Michael Q. Pugliese

Saian Natural Clinical Skin care • ROOM 103 C

NON-SURGICAL FACE LIFT, NECK LIFT, AND COLLAGEN INFUSION THERAPY ACHIEVED THROUGH GALVANIC AND MICROCURRENT TECHNOLOGY AND NATURAL CLINICAL PEPTIDE PRODUCTS by Dasha Saian

Image Skin care • ROOM 104 A

CLINICAL COUTURE DESIGNER PEELS by Kimberly Saltrese

Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. • ROOM 105 A

INSTANT NON-SURGICAL FACE AND NECK LIFT W/ AGE REVERSING ORGANIC BIO-ACTIVES AND MICRONEEDLING by Victoria Tabak

Square • Room 106 A

PAYMENT TRENDS: CHIP CARDS TO APPLE PAY by Ashley Merolla

Martinni Beauty, Inc. • ROOM 106 B

“MICRODERMABRASION: PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE” by Lana Yu

Bio Jouvance Paris, Inc. • ROOM 107 A

MICRONEEDLING WITH BIO MATRIX, ALTERNATIVE TO RESTYLANE™: HYALURONIC ACID BASED WRINKLE FILLER by Sonia Boghosian

AIA – Dermascope • ROOM 105 B

NATURAL SOLUTIONS FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION AND AGING COMPLEXIONS (DEMO) by Elina Fedatova

MONDAY, OCTOBER 26

3:30 - 4:30 PM

Éminence Organic Skin care • Room 103 A

ERASE HYPERPIGMENTATION WITH NATURAL HYDROQUINONE ALTERNATIVE by Boldijarre Koronczay

Beaming White - Teeth Whitening

• Room 103 C TEETH WHITENING: LEARN HOW EASY AND PROFITABLE IT IS TO OFFER THE SERVICE by Luis Lajous

Image Skin care • ROOM 104 A

TURN YOUR CONSULTATIONS INTO CA$H! by Kimberly Saltrese

Bio Jouvance Paris, Inc. • ROOM 107 A

THE LATEST EUROPEAN MESOTHERAPY TECHNIQUE TO TREAT ACNE/ACNE SCARS by Sonia Boghosian

AIA – Dermascope • ROOM 105 B MAKEUP MISHAPS (DEMO) by Lora Condon

EXHIBITOR LIST

AS OF SEPTEMBER 2015

abi skin care

EcoGenics Active Botanical Skin Care

Misencil

Act 5 Cosmetics

Edge Systems, LLC

Modern Basic

Agera Laboratories, Inc.

Éminence Organic Skin Care

National Laser Institute

AIA-Aesthetics International Association

Endless Beauty Bands

Allegra M. France

EPILFREE Permanent Hair Reduction

Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc.

Arya Essentials

Equibal Labs

AQ Skin Solutions

EquiPro USA, Inc.

Audrey Morris Cosmetics and Skin Care

Esthemax New York

B & S Beauty Supply

être belle

Beaming White Teeth Whitening

Eye Kandy Cosmetics

Beau Institute of Permanent

Fallene Ltd.

and Corrective Makeup

finipil®

Beaute Tsuru

Formulary For Physicians, Inc.

Beauties City Supplies, Inc.

Genesis Biosystems, Inc.

Beauty Attica, Inc.

GlyMed Plus

Beauty Image

Gold Cosmetics and Skin Care

Bella Schneider Beauty

Grande Lash – MD

BellêCote, Paris

Grande Naturals

BG Beauté, Inc.

h2tSpa & Aesthetics

Bio France Lab

Hale Cosmeceuticals

Bio Jouvance Paris, Inc.

Hawaiian Moon

BioFreeze

Healing Zone Aesthetics

Biophotas

Health and Beauty Connection

BioRegenerative Sciences Products

Health Mate Sauna by PLH Products, Inc.

Rose Micro Solutions

Blinc, Inc.

House of Spa Brands, LLC

Saian Natural Clinical Skin Care

Blue Beautifly

HydraFacial MD®

Salonwear

Bon Vital

iBrows For You

Satin Smooth

Bronze Biologic

Image Derm, Inc.

Select Marketing and Distribution, Inc.

Cailyn Cosmetics

Infra Slim Body Contouring System

Sesha Skin Therapy

Candy Coat Beauty

Image Skin Care

Shira

Cass Luxury Shapewear

JMT Group

Caregen Co., Ltd.

Silhouet-Tone

Klapp Cosmetics

Cass Luxury Shapewear

Kev. C Skin Care Professional

Skin for Life

Caviar of Switzerland

Knight’s Beauty Supply

Celluma Circadia by Dr. Pugliese ClearFx Skin

New Age Skin Care, LLC New Face USA No Scream Cream Nufree® Otto Trading, Inc. Perfect Choice Trading PhotoMedex Pinnacle Cosmetics Primocyn Eau Divine ProCell Therapies PurErb™ Skin Care RapidLash® Relax & Wax Rena Levi Skin Care Repêchage® RevítaLash Rhonda Allison® Rhonda Allison’s RA for Men

Skin Script Skin Care

Smooth Skin Supply, LLC Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics, Inc. Spa Equipment Direct Lash Bomb Spa Manufacturer Direct Le Mieux Cosmetics

Sparenity

Clinical Resolution Lab, Inc.

LightStim®

Cliona Eternal Beauty

Lightwave LED

cliXit

Lôngmi Lashes by Daniel

CMS of Holland

M.A. Dermaceuticals

Contours Rx, LLC

M.A.D Skin Care

Crown Brush

M’Lis Company

Crystal Peel

Magazine Service Outlet

Depilève

Manufacturing Beauty®

DermaMed Solutions, Inc.

Martinni Beauty, Inc.

DermaplanePro, Inc.

Maxcara

Dermascope Magazine

Med Aesthetic Rep, LLC

Dermatude META Therapy

Meg 21 with Supplamine

DermAware® Bio-Targeted Skin Care

Mena Cosmetics

Diamond Way Ayurveda

MerryLaz Aesthetics USA

Vita Juwel® USA

DPC International, Inc.

Migi Cosmetics

Vitality FX Detoxification Station

Dr.Jeff Skin Care

Minkys Eyelash Extensions

Yodle

Spaware Software Square Sranrom Sun Laboratories Starkey Medical Esthetics and Dermatology STN - Beauty, Inc. TAMA Research Corporation TEI Spa® Essentials The Healing Touch ThermoClear TiZo® By fallene Viktoria Dé Ann Peptide Cosmeceuticals

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41

TIBETAN therapy

Create all-encompassing well-being with the

KuNye massage

by César Tejedor

I

t’s no secret that holistic concepts have come center stage in the spa industry, with the rapid development of new treatments that address health and well-being. The Tibetan KuNye massage caters to all aspects of these concepts by balancing the body and mind, easing pain, relaxing tensions and revitalizing one’s energy. This article provides an introduction of the concepts of the complex practice of Tibetan KuNye Massage.

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TIBETAN THERAPY

TIBETAN MEDICINE KuNye massage therapy is derived from traditional Tibetan medicine. This ancient medicinal system has a holistic perception of human health and takes diet, lifestyle, mental and physical condition, the environment and astrological signs into consideration. Tibetans believe that when physical and mental energy are in harmony, one is healthy on all levels.

Tibetan medicine emphasizes promoting health through preventative measures rather than curing illness. A Tibetan doctor (not a therapist) makes an exhaustive diagnosis to identify the root cause of a symptom. Once this root cause has been eliminated, the symptom will not return.

Therefore, a diagnosis must be carried out to identify the constitution of each client and the existence of possible disorders prior to all treatments, including the KuNye massage.

Questions for client: In order to determine the dominant constitution, the client is asked about their health condition, diet, lifestyle, habits and tastes.

Observation: Note the color of the skin, body movement, hair color and texture. This information enables us to identify the client´s constitution, which can be rLung, mKhris-pa, Bad-Kan, or a mix of all three (known in Ayurveda as Vata, Pitta and Kapha).

The indications and contraindications of the KuNye massage are the same as in any other oil massage when it is applied with preventive, relaxing or esthetic purposes. When massage is used in curative treatments, the indications vary according to the client´s constitution and imbalance, and are applied in relation with rLung imbalances.

In any case, it’s important to apply the massage and the oils in a manner that best adapts to the client. Refer to the following table to customize the massage for each client.

ALLENCOMPASSING

rLung

From a Tibetan health perspective, KuNye massage is conducted for two main purposes:

Bad-kan

Sesame, coconut, peppermint,

1. Prevent imbalances and disorders.

This is achieved by soothing tensions, relaxing and bringing balance to the body, mind and energy to relieve stress.

mKhris-pa

Carrier Oil

soya, nutmeg, turmeric, mustard, linseed, nigellasativa

Coconut, saf-

Thyme,

flower, fresh

ginger, basil,

butter, jasmine,

cinnamon and

chamomile

rosemary

and sunflower

2. Relieve a disorder or disease. When applied for this purpose, it should be performed under the guidance of a Tibetan doctor.

The KuNye massage utilizes specific massage strokes designed for increasing energy flow and opening the energy channels. The body´s energy points are stimulated through acupressure and the use of Zathi-Dukpas in order to promote well-being and maintain or restore health.

INDIVIDUAL ASSESSMENT

Medium-but

Pressure

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Soft Medium

rLung points

Reps

7

5

3

Oil

Hot

Neutral

Warm

Temperature

According to Tibetan medicine, each person has a specific bodily constitution.

high on the

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SPA

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TIBETAN THERAPY

The Energy Being An important aspect of the KuNye massage is the stimulation of the energy points (Zub-Tsog) of the body, which allow us to work on the energy on several levels.

According to Tibetan Medicine, the energy points are located along the 72.000 energy channels (Tsa) that distribute energy to the entire organism.

Tibetan medicine emphasizes promoting health through preventative measures rather than curing illness.

During the KuNye massage, the energy points are stimulated using both finger pressure and hot pressure using tiny herbal bags called Zathi-Dukpa.

The thumb-sized Zathi-Dukpas are made of a mixture of nutmeg, caraway, and coriander, and different essential oils linked to traditional Tibetan Medicine. This fusion of products is mixed and placed in a cotton cloth, making a bag that is closed by a cord to shape and seal it. *See video demonstration at LNEONLINE.com.

sample protocol The full KuNye massage consists of eight steps, each of them broken down into several sequences according to the points/ areas that are being stimulated. The protocol below is a comprehensive demonstration of the KuNye massage applied on the back, which represents the seventh step in the full KuNye massage, including all the sequences of that step.

Position of the receiver: Lying in prone position (facing down), with legs and arms relaxed and aligned with the trunk.

Position of the therapist: Standing or walk-standing at either the head or one side of the massage table.

1

1. Zathi Dukpa on the head, back and upper limbs points.

Massage stroke: Apply Zathi-Dukpas using circular friction.

Therapist position: Standing at the side of the massage table.

Application: Apply medium to strong pressure (taking into account the individual’s characteristics) to stimulate the following points: • The base of the skull, two finger widths distance from each side of the vertebral column.

• Second row on the skull, two finger widths distance above the first point.

• Crown Chakra, Bregma and tragus.

• All points of the spine.

• Infraspinatus fossa point.

• Angular point of the shoulder blade.

• Review the points of the upper limb.

Benefits: Stimulates the energy points and improves energy flow throughout the body. Each energy point produces different benefits.

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TIBETAN THERAPY

2

2. Palm gliding on the back.

Massage stroke: Palm gliding.

Therapist position: Walk-standing at the side of the massage table.

Application: Using both palms simultaneously, perform palm gliding.

Beginning from the lower back, move up the paravertebral muscles to the cervical spine and down the outer side of the trunk to the starting point.

Benefits: Stimulates the energy flow to the back and neck. Relaxes the paravertebral muscles.

3. Thumb gliding on the paravertebrals.

Massage stroke: Circular thumb gliding.

Therapist position: Walk-standing at the side of the massage table.

Application: Perform a circular gliding stroke using both thumbs on each side of the spine starting at the lower back, ascending through the paravertebral muscles to the cervical spine and returning with an effleurage stroke.

Benefits: Stimulates the energy flow to the back and neck. Relaxes the paravertebral muscles.

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TIBETAN THERAPY

4

4. Palm kneading on the scapula.

Massage stroke: Palm kneading Therapist position: Stand at the side of the massage table.

Application: With both palms simultaneously but in opposing directions, apply palm kneading around the inner side of the scapula.

5

Benefits: Relaxes the muscles and improves the mobility of the shoulder and neck.

5. Thumb press on the trapezium points.

Massage stroke: Thumb press.

Therapist position: Stand at the head of the massage table.

Application: Use both thumbs simultaneously to apply pressure on the three points of the trapezium muscle bilaterally.

Benefits: Relaxes the muscles and improves mobility of the shoulder and neck.

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TIBETAN THERAPY

6

7

6. Thumb press on the Crown and Bregma points.

Massage stroke: Thumb press.

Therapist position: Stand at the head of the massage table.

Application: With the thumbs superimposed or with just one thumb (depending on the pressure you want to exercise), apply pressure on the Crown Chakra point and the Bregma point.

Benefits: Boosts concentration, develops intellectual capacity, improves food absorption and respiration. Reduces speech problems and anxiety.

7. Effleurage on the paravertebrals.

Massage stroke: Effleurage.

Therapist position: Stand at the head of the massage table.

At the end of this sequence, cover the back and upper limbs.

Promoting Lifelong Wellness The KuNye massage is not a treatment that’s briefly enjoyed one time and quickly forgotten. This genuinely holistic experience generates a lasting state of well-being, revitalizing the body and mind and preventing disorders. In addition to the massage itself, the therapist provides the client with recommendations concerning diet, climate, lifestyle, mind and body self-care. Hence, this treatment offering can be advertised as a truly holistic and personalized experience that takes health promotion to a whole new level in the spa. n

CĂŠsar Tejedor is the founder and CEO of Massage Around the World, a company that provides high quality massage courses for therapists, as well as training and

Application: Apply effleurage on the paravertebral muscles, from the cervical to the lumbar region.

consultancy for spas. He is also the author of 19 spa training books and the creator of CE online courses on Tibetan KuNye Massage as well as Tibetan Singing Bowl Massage. Tejedor also offers his expertise as a visiting practitioner, spa trainer and speaker at international conferences. For more information, visit massagearoundtheworld.

Benefits: Relaxes the body.

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com or contact him at info@massagearoundtheworld.com.

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Client Comfort The newly developed FacePillow™ and Strata FacePillow™ from Living Earth Crafts are both focused entirely on the customer’s comfort satisfaction. Product designers fused the finest comfort materials available to create Cloudfill™, a proprietary blend of polygel fibers that provides a downy soft, yet supportive cushion.

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Offering 100% whole plant organic from start to finish, the luxurious body oil from Laurel Whole Plant Organics boasts many anti-aging, restorative and healing ingredients such as rosehip seed oil, rose essential oil and avocado oil. This unrefined and completely pure oil is meant to replace lotion. It is loaded with antioxidants to keep skin soft and hydrated. It captures the essence of California in a bottle with rose garden and redwood forest notes.

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Unveil Softness Formulated with alpha hydroxy acids and natural active ingredients, the Firm Skin Exfoliating Peels from Éminence Organic Skin Care are results-oriented, delivering visible results without the need for downtime. Each of the nonirritating peels comes in a unique airless pump jar along with 35 dual textured cotton rounds to help users gently remove dead skin cells and uncover a softer and revitalized complexion, effectively primed for the next step in the VitaSkin™ routine.

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Body Oil with Benefits

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Supersized Supplamine The Meg 21 with Supplamine back bar line provides new professional size products that facilitate and pre- and post-treatment of patients, providing powerful antioxidants to minimize photosensitivity, maximize comfort and prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Products are formulated to enhance tolerability for newly treated sensitive skin.

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MOISTURE THERAPY The Le Mieux Moisture Infusion Mask hydrates sensitive, stressed skin, brightens dull complexions, and provides immediate relief during and after peel procedures such as Le Mieux M15 (15%) Mandelic + Arbutin Peel. The serum-infused mask features three anti-aging peptides, a stable form of vitamin C, seven antioxidant-rich botanical extracts, and skin-smoothing marine collagen to replenish and maintain skin moisture.

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ThermoClear offers the latest in technology, utilizing both high and low radio frequency.

It can treat ALL skin types for epidermal skin imperfections, such as small spider capillaries, cherry angiomas, milia, skin tags, sebaceous hyperplasia, fibromas, cholesterol deposits, sun spots and age spots. Thermoclear is manufactured in the United States and comes with a lifetime warranty.

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LNE & SPA

CHAT with Dawn Tardif

founder and owner of BodiScience Wellness Center & Spa

by Amanda Clinton Winter

How can you define the concept of your spa?

We are focused on the entire person, not just the skin; our belief being that beauty is ‘health made visible.’ All of our treatments are based on the ancient philosophies of Traditional Chinese Medicine and Ayurveda, as my education has been rooted in Ayurvedic Medicine.

How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there?

We have five treatment rooms with a yoga/meditation room.

How many employees do you have and what are their specialties?

We do not require therapists to have a specialty. Our treatments, philosophies and modalities are unique to us and we ask that therapists have an open mind, willingness to learn, pas58

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sion to deliver five-diamond service, a curiosity about Ayurveda and TCM and an innate ability to touch a client with intention.

What would you say are your biggest challenges?

Staffing is the number one challenge in our industry today. Many new estheticians do not seek out continuing education and they lean solely on their ‘basic education’ from esthetic school. We seek well-rounded individuals who have knowledge of other industries and the level of professionalism that is demonstrated in the business world.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life?

Every morning I work out for an hour and then follow that with mediation or yoga or both. How you begin the

day sets the intention for the remainder of the day and the first thing you must do is practice gratitude.

What takes most of your time every day?

Overall business operations… policies and procedures that are governed by laws changing, HR issues, 401K practices, credit card company compliance, insurance changes and marketing direction.

What is your hiring process?

We have a standardized questionnaire for potential applicants to fill out… this is a great screening tool and a peek into who they are. We also have them complete an assessment test to give us an idea of what creates stress for them, how we may manage them more effectively by understanding their dispositions and priorities.

wellness relationship with our clientele is the star. This means that they engage the client in our concept, create the client to be loyal with strong retention visits, keeps his/her relationship based on professionalism, focuses on strong retail figures, works well with the team supporting them with experience in all areas that help to keep our team strong, consistency in their performance and production and demonstrates a wellness way of living in their own lives.

How do you select the people that are going to be working with you?

We look for the following traits: team player, strong ethics, passionate about wellness, humility, authentic in who they are, honesty, strong foundation in skin care education, demonstrated superior skill set with client interaction and treatments, willingness to do what it takes to deliver exceptional service and a quest for continuing education.

How do you evaluate employees?

What makes an employee stand out as a star?

We have an in-depth evaluation that took me many years of being a supervisor in another industry to construct.

We sit with employees to review their progress and their goals.

An employee that stays on point with developing a strong professional

How do you train the staff?

We meet for an hour weekly for meetings. We have many facets built into our meetings. We focus on character development for inspiration, customer service training, product training, treatment protocols, client comments‌ What are your retail goals?

I engage my team to retail 35 to 40 percent of their service dollars. I teach my team that retailing is part of their job and it actually secures their position. It creates a stronger relationship for us and the client and they see results, which keeps them returning.

Where is the retail area located and why? What’s the surface area compared to the rest of the spa?

Our retail area is positioned in the entrance of our center. We find it to be a draw for people walking by, which then may be an enticement for them to not only make a purchase, but for making a reservation to experience a service with us. Our retail space is about one third of our space.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals?

We pay commission for their retail sales and on occasion we run contests.

What can you tell us about your marketing techniques?

For the past 10 years (out of 25) we have found that one of our local high end magazine publications has a large readership that is comprised of our clientele. This has allowed for us to have an educational vehicle for us to brand our company.

How do you keep customers loyal?

Exceed clients’ expectations and care about what their needs are.

What are the most important lessons you have learned from failures or challenges that you can share with others in your career path?

Resiliency is the most important quality to have as a business owner. You need to be proactive, flexible, adaptable to the changes in the market and never hesitate to make changes in your company to meet the demand of the consumer, while being authentic to your brand.

What are the most popular treatments?

Our Above & Beyond Facial ($187, 90-105 minutes) and our Body Contouring Kur Essential ($180, 90150 minutes) are among our most popular. n

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See Alex R. Thiersch speak live this month at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2015!

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PARTNERING

PRESCRIPTION

The Ins and Outs of Partnering with a Medical Professional by

Alex R. Thiersch

T

he medical aesthetics industry has become incredibly lucrative in recent years. According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS), in 2014 alone Americans spent $4.9 billion on nonsurgical cosmetic procedures and, with medical spas becoming ubiquitous in retail centers and clients beginning treatments at progressively younger ages, it is quite tempting to believe that medical esthetics money is simply there for the taking.

However, establishing a medical esthetics practice is much more complicated than starting up a traditional spa or salon, largely because of the “medical� side of the equation. Before a medical spa can even open its doors, it must partner with a medical professional, and there are a number of issues that a prospective practice must address while doing this.

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OWNERSHIP The term “partnership” is commonly used in this situation, but it may not be used in the traditional sense. In most states, laws based on a doctrine known as the “corporate practice of medicine” dictate that medical facilities must be owned by physicians or physicianowned corporations.

Medical spas are in fact medical facilities, so in states that observe the corporate practice of medicine, they must be owned by physicians or physician-owned corporations. Check with your local health care attorney to see if your state observes the corporate practice of medicine.

FEE-SPLITTING An offshoot of the ownership issue is the issue of commission. In many instances, a physician who owns a medical spa may not be conducting most of the treatments, and may wish to reward the people who are actually dealing with the patients — the facility’s regis62

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tered nurses and laser technicians, for example — by giving them percentages of the costs of the treatments they perform. Although this is not terribly uncommon in medical spas, it is illegal in most situations.

Many states that observe the corporate practice of medicine also have laws that prohibit what is known as “feesplitting.” According to these laws, all payments for medical treatments must be made in full to a physician or physician-owned corporation. If a percentage of that payment is directed instead to an employee, that transaction constitutes fee-splitting. If a medical spa is found to have engaged in fee-splitting, the physician faces suspension or revocation of his or her license, as well as a significant fine or fines. In addition, the employee also faces a fine or fines, so it’s in everyone’s best interest to make sure that this is avoided.

All this is not to say that a physician cannot reward his or her employees for their hard work, however — offering a structured bonus instead of commission is perfectly legal.

“Medical spas are in fact medical facilities, so in states that observe the corporate practice of medicine, they must be owned by physicians or physicianowned corporations.”

D E L E GAT I O N A N D SUPERVISION It is common — and perfectly legal — for physicians to delegate their day-today medical responsibilities at a medical spa to mid-level practitioners, such as nurse practitioners and physician assistants. Those practitioners can, in turn, delegate these tasks to nonmedical staffers, such as registered nurses and laser technicians, provided they are properly supervised and the tasks to which they are assigned fall within the scope of their license and training.

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Non-solicitation agreements are far more likely to be enforced than non-competition agreements, because courts are typically more than willing to punish the misappropriation of a company’s assets.

regards to the use of social media. This may require a fundamental change in the way that a facility operates, so it’s important to understand the whys and what-fors regarding this topic.

The Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act (HIPAA) and state laws that govern patient privacy dictate that the personal health information (PHI) of all medical patients—essentially, anything that can possibly be used to identify patients—is absolutely sacrosanct and must be kept private.

Because medical spas are medical facilities, they are subject to HIPAA and

means that there’s nothing a medical spa or its employees can do to defend the business’ reputation on that forum. However, as difficult as it might be to ignore situations such as those, they absolutely must be ignored. The punishments for violations of patient privacy laws are staggering—potentially hundreds of thousands of dollars per offense.

Medical spa owners and operators owe it to themselves to learn everything they can about how patient privacy laws apply to them and to proceed with the utmost caution.

Furthermore, the presence of a physician at the medical spa is often not required as long as a mid-level practitioner is present while treatments are being administered and the physician is reachable in case of an emergency.

However, physicians remain accountable for everything that occurs under their watch, so it’s important for them to make sure the medical spa staff is properly trained and capable of performing the procedures they are asked to perform.

related state laws, so they must not do anything to that could reveal the identities of their patients.

This directly applies to the ways that medical spas market themselves on social media. Whereas a traditional spa or salon would think nothing of thanking a client on Facebook or responding to a customer’s comment on Twitter, a medical spa cannot engage with patients in this way—publicly acknowledging in any way that someone is a patient is a violation of his or her HIPAA rights. Even posting a picture taken in a medical spa with a patient in the background can represent a patient privacy violation.

This can be especially difficult when someone leaves a negative review on a review site, such as Yelp, because this

P R OT E C T IN G YOU R CLIENT BASE

H I PA A A N D SOCIAL MEDIA Another potential problem that medical professionals bring with them is the issue of patient privacy, particularly with 64

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A medical spa’s clients are its most valuable assets. Therefore, a medical spa must make sure that its employees and associates—medical professionals included—cannot undermine its business by taking its patients away. This can be accomplished with contractual clauses known as restrictive covenants, such as non-competition agreements and non-solicitation agreements.

A non-competition agreement restricts the employee from seeking similar work within a certain geographic area for a specified period of time.

Generally speaking, non-competition agreements are difficult to enforce, because American courts tend to be reluc-

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tant to restrict peoples’ ability to work where they want. However, a properly worded, reasonable non-competition agreement might still be worth pursuing—consult with your local health care attorney to find out if you live in a state in which non-competition agreements are viable.

A non-solicitation agreement helps prevent former employees from taking clients and/or employees from your medical spa for a specified period of time. Non-solicitation agreements are far more likely to be enforced than non-competition agreements, because

courts are typically more than willing to punish the misappropriation of a company’s assets. However, a medical spa must still be careful when crafting these clauses, because they must still be reasonable and protect only the facility’s legitimate business interests.

A L U C R AT I V E S T E P Forging an alliance with a medical professional can be a lucrative step for a prospective medical spa; however, this arrangement carries with it no small amount of risk. This article

merely scratches the surface of these issues. For a more thorough accounting, consult with a local health care attorney. n

Alex R. Thiersch is a partner at Thiersch & Associates, a Chicago based law firm, and founder of the American Med Spa Association (AmSpa), an association dedicated to educating the medical spa industry on the rules and regulations that affect it. He can be reached at alex@americanmedspa.org.

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Grand Gesture Grande Naturals LLC fights ovarian cancer by raising money to find an accurate screening test. The mission is to raise $50,000 by September 30, the end of Ovarian Cancer month, by donating 50 percent of sales from the Grande T.E.A.L. Kit (which includes one GrandeLASH-MD, one GrandeLIPS, and one GrandeMASCARA) to T.E.A.L. Organization (Tell Every Amazing Lady About Ovarian Cancer Louisa M. McGregor Ovarian Cancer Foundation).

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In a strategic move, Infinity Sun has relocated it’s manufacturing headquarters to Los Angeles to best serve customer needs by conducting operations more efficiently from one single location. “The move brings operations closer to our West Hollywood headquarters and training center, giving us greater control over our supply chain, better enabling us to deliver the highest level of quality and service to our customer,” explains Veronique Munro, Infinity Sun’s founder and CEO.

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VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

Vinotherapy: The Rundown

Wine therapy is typically what women do over a bottle of Cabernet when they need to vent about their day with girlfriends. But, smart spas are giving the phrase new meaning by tapping into the

vinotherapy trend by filling their treatment menus up with services made from the

anti-aging properties found in grapes and grapevines.

By Caroline Canetti

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VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

The History of Vinotherapy Vinotherapy, which dates back to France in 1970, maximizes all the properties of grapevines, incorporating active ingredients found in vines and grapes (including the skin, seeds, oil, pulp, grapevine stalks, and juice) into cutting-edge skin care products and spa services that rejuvenate and energize the skin.

“People have been using grapevines for esthetic purposes for years,” explains Dawn Watts, president of Christina USA. “Young girls used to apply the sap from vine stalks to their faces and hands to clarify their complexion and reduce dark spots. Cellar masters had extremely soft hands because they dipped them into the wine yeast during vinification.”

Today, the trend is on the rise, especially as women are looking for more natural anti-aging treatments. “People are more aware of chemical ingredients and want to stay away from them, they are aiming more for natural lines but they also want their products to be effective, and if glamorous, even better,” says Christina Seely, spa manager of Kenwood Inn and Spa in Kenwood, California, which offers approximately 12 vinotherapy treatments on their spa menu, including vinotherapy baths. (See related article: It’s Wine O’Clock!, page 83.)

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VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

Wine’s Wealth of By-products Wine by-products pack one of the most potent antioxidant punches a treatment can get, making it the ultimate in noninvasive anti-aging services. “It’s 20 times more efficient than vitamin C and five times more efficient than vitamin E. Grapes contain more than 1,600 antioxidant compounds and other ingredients that affect the SIRT gene involved in the process of aging,” explains Watts.

The “whys” of wine It’s all about the resveratrol, a substance that the vine produces, and the polyphenols, the most powerful antioxidant in the plant world. (For more on resveratrol and polyphenols, see related article, page 73.) In brief, Watts explains that resveratrol protects and intensifies the firmness and youthfulness of the skin, and reduces existing dark spots and prevents the appearance of new spots. Polyphenols, along with tannins, are amazing skin youth protectors. “Ten-thousand times more active than vitamin E,” notes Watts.

Other elements of wine include anthocyanin, which preserve and strengthen collagen, and grape seed oil, which contains a high concentration of vitamin E that serves to nourish, hydrate, and regenerate skin.

Tartaric acid, malic acid, butyric acid, and acetic acid also contribute to skin rejuvenation and a youthful appearance. “Acids present in grapes and their derivatives are suitable for all skin types, of all ages,” says Watts.

“In addition to slowing down the aging process, they eliminate excess sebum; therefore they are found in higher concentrations in products designed for oily skin, as opposed to products aimed at thin and older skin.”

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Red or White?

Does it matter if the grape is a Chardonnay or Cabernet? For marketing purposes, it’s a good idea to have both on your menu because some spa-goers might choose their treatment based on their favorite type of wine to drink. But, there actually is a difference between the grapes. “Red wine will help stimulate arterial circulation and white wine will help improve the skin’s texture and tone,” says Christina Milton, Director of Global Sales, Education and Development at d’vine Skin Care.

Furthermore, Watts says, “Red grapes have better protective qualities and are highly suitable for antiaging treatments. Red wine contains more resveratrol that fights free radicals and treats hyperpigmentation quickly and effectively. Grapes that are not yet

ripe and wine vinegar are rich in alpha acids that help remove dead cells and improve cell oxygenation and circulation. The same alpha acids boost skin metabolism and render the skin radiant and fresh-looking.”

Let’s face it, aside from the proven anti-aging properties of wine treatments, it’s a great marketing hook and a huge demographic to tap into as well. “There are so many wine lovers around the world who can benefit externally from the wine,” says Milton.

“Vinotherapy is not just another fad or trend, it really works,” adds Alice Koskas, owner of The Lounge Spa in Culver City, Calif., which has the Wine Me Down Facial. (See related article, It’s Wine O’Clock!, Page 83.) n

VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

The Power of

Polyphenols

By Heather Fowler

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glass of wine is a delightful indulgence that allows us to slow down at the end of a long day, to savor and enjoy the moment. It can be shared among friends at celebrations big or small, or perhaps enjoyed over a romantic dinner. Some doctors even recommend one or two glasses of red wine a day for heart health and the powerful antioxidants that help prevent oxidative stress on the body. In fact, antioxidants found in red wine called polyphenols offer excellent nutritional and, when applied topically, other beneficial properties. This article addresses the benefits of polyphenols, and how spa professionals can use and recommend them to help their clients achieve optimum skin health.

WHAT ARE POLYPHENOLS? Polyphenols are a group of antioxidants found in many types of plants, tea, coffee, dark chocolate, wine, nuts, legumes and fruits (see sidebar on page 75 for examples of top sources). According to the American Society of Clinical Nutrition, polyphenols are abundant micronutrients in our diet, and evidence for their increasing role in the prevention of degenerative diseases such as cancer and cardiovascular disease is emerging (1). Polyphenols are what give fruits and vegetables their vibrant color and provide a protective outer barrier. The antioxidant power of polyphenols protects plants from UV radiation and harmful pathogens.

This is a compelling reason to not peel the skin off of fruit — most of the antioxidants are found in the outer layer!

POLYPHENOLS IN GRAPES Polyphenols are the most important phytochemicals found in grapes.

Resveratrol, found in red wine grapes, is one of the most studied polyphenols 74

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because of its abundant, antioxidant health benefits (see complete article about resveratrol on page 77). Found primarily in the fruit’s skin, stems, and seeds, polyphenols are well known for their antioxidant, cardiovascular, anticancer, and anti-inflammatory benefits.

Research shows that red wine is high in OPCs (Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins), is 20 times more powerful than vitamin E, and 50 times greater than vitamin C. This makes vinotherapy an excellent addition to spas’ anti-aging service menus.

NUTRITIONAL BENEFITS Polyphenols are shown to protect the body from premature aging by strengthening the body’s immune response: they fight viruses, carcinogens, and inflammation. These potent antioxidants fight free radical damage in our bodies, thereby helping prevent degenerative diseases and ag-

ing. While the benefit is not from red wine specifically, we can assume that the intake of red wine antioxidants improves cardiovascular health. In fact, scientific studies not only point toward red wine benefiting heart health, but it also helps inhibit the development of certain cancer tumors.

If indulging in red wine for an antioxidant fix, one to two four ounce glasses is enough to obtain a moderate antioxidant punch. The wines that are shown to contain the highest levels of polyphenols range by region and varietal. Research has shown that, generally, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Syrah, and Pinot Noir contain the highest concentration of flavonoids. When you enjoy a glass of red wine, the phrase, “a toast to your health,” is spot on!

TOPICAL BENEFITS In 1936, a French professor named Jacques Masquelier identified a phe-

VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

Cloves Mexican oregano Peppermint Blackberries Raspberries Strawberries Cocoa powder Dark chocolate Coffee Almond Whole grain flours Black grapes Red wine Blueberries Pomegranate Cranberries

Procyanidins help to boost the skin’s elasticity by preventing the breakdown of collagen promoting the skin’s health and youthful appearance.

nol compound called procyanidins that is found in grape seeds. Procyanidins help to boost the skin’s elasticity by preventing the breakdown of collagen promoting the skin’s health and youthful appearance. A study published in 2009 by the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry found that when polyphenols were applied topically, skin-protective benefits were seen.

Specifically, polyphenols were found to protect skin against UV rays, enhance proliferation of fibroblast cells, and have good tyrosinase inhibitory effects. (2) Polyphenols have been shown to be effective in treating the following skin conditions.

Acne Resveratrol, the main polyphenol in red wine, has excellent antimicrobial properties. Studies show that topical application of resveratrol helps to inhibit acne-causing bacteria, fight inflammation, and accelerate wound healing. A

2011 study in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology found that when a resveratrol gel was applied to the right side of patients’ faces, there was more than a 50 percent reduction in the average area of microcomedones compared to the control area (the left side of the face where the hydrogel without resveratrol was applied). (3) A separate study by UCLA researchers showed that “Resveratrol demonstrated sustained antibacterial activity against P. acnes, whereas benzoyl peroxide, a commonly used antibacterial treatment for acne, demonstrated a short-term bactericidal response.” (4) Though consuming a glass of red wine won’t yield these same results, research on using red wine antioxidants in the topical treatment of acne is promising.

Fine Lines and Wrinkles The main culprit for aging is free radical damage, which breaks down collagen fibers. Red wine antioxidants work to LNEonline.com

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bind to collagen fibers and strengthen the skin matrix. When the skin has available sources of antioxidants, it can ward off skin-damaging free radicals, preventing aging and collagen damage.

Products containing ingredients such as red wine antioxidants, green tea, and resveratrol — all excellent sources of polyphenols — are all great for wrinkleresistant skin.

Pigmentation Studies show that polyphenols have tyrosinase inhibitory effects, treating and preventing skin pigmentation.

Tyrosinase is the enzyme responsible for creating melanin in our skin.

Consider addressing skin pigmentation from different angles. Skin lightening and brightening ingredients like vitamin C, kojic acid, licorice root, gaba, L-arbutin and natural acids, combined with polyphenol-rich topicals, work well synergistically.

UV-induced Damage Studies show that polyphenols act as natural sunscreens, reducing UVinduced inflammation, oxidative stress, and the DNA damaging effects of the sun. (5) Recommend that your clients pair together a polyphenol-rich topical serum with a topical vitamin C serum daily, as antioxidants work best when paired up together. In the morning, applying antioxidants under SPF provides optimum defense against photo damage. If any UV rays make it past your sunblock, you have antioxidant support to help protect your skin cells from damage.

When applying polyphenols onto the skin, the effects will be dependent on product penetration, which, in turn, is greatly influenced by product formulation and delivery of the polyphenols.

Best results are achieved with the combination of a healthy diet, supplements, and topically applied polyphenols. n 76

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References 1. Manach, C, Scalbert, A. Morand, C. Rémésy, C. & Jiménez, L. (2004).

Polyphenols: Food sources and bioavailability. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 79, 727-747.

2. Wei, X., Liu, Y, Xiao, J, & Wang, Y. (2009). Protective effects of tea polysaccharides and polyphenols on skin. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 17, 7757-7762.

3. Fabbrocini G, Staibano S, De Rosa G, Battimiello V, Fardella N, Ilardi G, La Rotonda MI, Longobardi A, Mazzella M, Siano M, Pastore F, De Vita V, Vecchione ML, & Ayala F. (2011). Resveratrolcontaining gel for the treatment of acne vulgaris: A single-blind, vehicle-controlled, pilot study. American Journal Clinical Dermatology, 12(2), 133-141.

4. Taylor, E.J.M., Yu, Y. Champer, J. & Kim, J. (2014). Resveratrol demonstrates antimicrobial effects against propioni-

bacterium acnes in vitro. Dermatology and Therapy, 4(2), 249-257.

5. Nichols, J. A., & Katiyar, S. K. (2009).

Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms. Archives of Dermatological Research, 302(2), 71-83.

Heather Fowler became a licensed esthetician in 2011. She joined the industry after struggling with skin issues herself. As Business Development Manager for Skin Fitness Therapy, she serves as a national educator and brand manager, specializing in advanced, corrective skin care. Her expertise in marketing, merchandising, menu and treatment development has led to successful partnerships and relationships with many licensed estheticians, spas and medical facilities.

VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

Red Wine Revelation The anti-aging powers of resveratrol

By Christina Milton

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esveratrol, a powerful type of antioxidant called phytoalexin that is prominent in grapes, has become the subject of many studies in recent years due to its impressive benefits in anti-aging and skin care. Resveratrol is a property that’s excreted from grape skins when the fruit experiences high levels of UV radiation, is in danger of an infection, or is subjected to other environmental stressors.

Resveratrol can be found in several nuts and fruits, and it’s prominent in grape skins. Even better, it’s a key component of everyone’s favorite “fruit” — red wine! A glass of red wine a day can help you increase your levels of resveratrol — and the darker the better. High concentrations of it can even be found in non-alcoholic red wine.

Resveratrol in the body Like other antioxidants, resveratrol helps in cell production and protection against the naturally occurring oxidization of cells. Studies have found that diets containing high amounts of resveratrol can help lead to longer and healthier lives. Dr. Whitaker, founder and director of the Whitaker Wellness Institute, points out that “more than 3,400 peer-reviewed journal articles have been published in this compound.” These studies surged after a Harvard study in the 1980s showed the benefits that resveratrol had on the lifespan of mice when compared to a control group of the critters that was not given resveratrol.

Beyond the effects on the body, resveratrol has been the focus of recent studies into its effects on the skin.

Because of its natural job to protect grapes from environmental stresses, it has been tested to see if this effect is also present when used on humans.

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Beyond the effects on the body, resveratrol has been the focus of recent studies into its effects on the skin.

VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

Impact on Health If one wants to see the benefits of resveratrol on a large population, we need only look at the diets of people in the Mediterranean and in France. These populations have long had red wine in their diets, and because of this they enjoy a relatively healthy life with far fewer health related problems than populations who do not indulge as much in red wine.

On the most basic level, resveratrol acts like a highly potent antioxidant.

When compared to other powerful antioxidants, resveratrol was shown to be much more powerful and efficient in smaller doses. When compared to idebenone — another powerful pharmaceutical antioxidant with benefits including shielding the skin from environmental damage, and improving the quality of skin – resveratrol was found to be 17 times more powerful.

Ingestible application Taken orally, such as through wine and supplements over a long-term period, resveratrol has shown to have positive effects on the overall health of the body.

It reduces the chances of having cardiovascular disease, and may even help promote a healthy weight throughout one’s lifetime. It has also been shown to have exciting effects on the skin.

In an interview between CBSnews. com and Heather Hausenblas, an associate professor at the college of Health and Human performances at the University of Florida, Hausenblas said “That another recent study published in the Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology in Oct. 2012 showed that people who took

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resveratrol orally for more than 60 days saw improvements in their skin. Their skin was more moist, less rough, had better elasticity, and participants’ age spots had decreased.”

Hence, it’s clear to see that resveratrol does have an effect on overall health — including the skin.

Topical Benefits Most people won’t need much armtwisting to drink a glass of wine a day for their health, but a recommendation to take a bath in red wine may raise their eyebrows. Beyond the usual way of getting resveratrol into the body, researchers are exploring how it can be used topically in order to reverse the effects of aging.

Though the list of studies for the topical applications of resveratrol is far shorter than that of orally administered doses, the benefits are still clear.

Because resveratrol protects grapes from being damaged by the environment, scientists reason that if applied on human skin, it would act in a similar fashion to how it acts on grape skin. A skin care ritual that involves dunking one’s entire body in red wine is not very feasible, though scientists have studied how to apply resveratrol through topical ointments and creams.

Topical Research According to a report on lifeextension. com by Robert Goldfaden and Gary Goldfaden, M.D., “Topical application of resveratrol to protect against UVBmediated skin damage as well as inhibit UVB-induced oxidative stress has been observed in a number of additional studies. It has also been shown to prevent UVA damage and abnormal cellular proliferation.”

Other studies have shown resveratrol’s ability to improve collagen synthesis in the skin. If applied to the skin, resveratrol would maintain healthy levels of collagen, helping the skin maintain 82

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its firm and toned appearance while also giving it the naturally beautiful glow that collagen is known to produce.

Future in Skin Care As research shifts into high gear trying to find more solid proof of resveratrol as an anti-aging property that can and should be applied topically to see the benefits, beauty and cosmetic companies are now bringing this powerful antioxidant to consumers.

According to CBS.com, Hausenblas, a professor at the University of Florida, “would be open to buying skin cream with the compound even if science hasn’t proven the topical application benefits just yet.”

So, when you kick back with some red wine, indulge in a little inspiration

as you consider the benefits that this great ingredient could provide your clients’ skin. This potion of youth can be the latest weapon in your anti-aging arsenal for the skin! n

Christina Milton is a paramedical esthetician and the International Director of Education for d’vine® Skin Care. She has been in the skin care industry for more than 15 years, and has participated in and spoken at numerous esthetic conferences.

Milton has traveled extensively all over North America, the Caribbean and Europe consulting, instructing and gaining knowledge of the esthetic, medical spa, and resort industries.

VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

It’s Wine O’Clock!

Intoxicating Vinotherapy Treatments

By Caroline Canetti

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Wine Me Down Facial 50 minutes, $110 The Lounge Spa Culver City, Calif.

Description: The Wine Me Down facial features a serum containing resveratrol, as well as watermelon, apples, aloe, chamomile, and other antioxidants. It helps to diminish wrinkles, decrease pore size, and seal in moisture.

How It Works: The star ingredient

A

glass of wine and a bubble bath have long been a woman’s goto way to wind down — or shall we say, “wine down” after a long day. This is why spa owners have been wise enough to offer up a glass of vino or a flute of champagne to their clients before or after services to provide the ultimate relaxation experience. There is a lot of income to be generated if you take your clients’ love for wine one step further by creating a vinotherapy menu rich with the anti-aging and healing properties provided by wine by-products, such as grape seeds, pulp, skins, and stems.

Here are six intoxicating wine treatments to consider...

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here is resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant that has an incredible protective benefit for the skin. “When applied topically, resveratrol improves collagen synthesis and reduces cell damage, which helps decrease fine lines and wrinkles. Resveratrol is a polyphenols antioxidant and one of 600 antimicrobial compounds known as a phytoalexin, which is produced by plants to protect them from excessive UV light, infections, and climactic changes,” says owner Alice Koskas.

The

Grapevine: The Lounge

Spa offers this treatment year round, but promotes it at a special rate during some holidays. “It’s really up to the esthetician in the treatment room to offer this facial. But we also provide literature in the locker rooms promoting the service and the key benefits of what it will do for their skin.

We create a display with a description with images of grapes, wine, and wine glasses to entice the client and use fun language like, ‘Drink in the serious skin care benefits of the Wine Down serum,’” she says.

VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

Grape Wine Peel 45 minutes, $85-$95 Ummelina International Day Spa Seattle, Wash.

How It Works: The peel gently exfoliates the top layer of dermal cells while wine polyphenols condition the skin. “This natural exfoliator and skin rejuvenator is a divine treatment for all skin types, especially sensitive and rosacea-prone skin. The vitis vinifera (grape) fruit extract is a nutrient-rich emollient and antioxidant that is rich in phenols, which protects against

damaging free radicals. It features Matrixyl™, the amino peptide that moisturizes and conditions in a novel skin-friendly manner,” says Ummelina’s chief visionary officer Nina Ummel.

FACE

Description: The Grape Wine Peel is packed with a natural multi-fruited acid complex derived from white grape and wine extracts, including the pulp, that contains a high percentage of standardized polyphenols and is a powerful antioxidant. It features a blend of mulberry, saxifrage, grape seed extract, and vitamin C.

The Grapevine: Ummelina invites their clients for, as they say, “a great sip of wine for your skin,” through regular wine tasting gatherings with local wine shops. “A winery, and usually the wine maker, come to pour and educate while guests tour the spa. We have specials for the evening, including hand washing rituals, chair massage, and gift card specials. We also do a drawing so clients can win the service,” she says.

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Vinotherapy Baths 25 minutes, $65 Kenwood Inn and Spa Kenwood, Calif.

BODY

Description: Kenwood’s Vinotherapy Bath menu, “Wines by the Bath,” includes three choices: Pinot Noir Bath, Chardonnay Bath, and Sparkling Bath. The add-on only service comes with a glass of wine and a gift bag with a vino bath bomb that the client can use at home.

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How It Works: Guests might choose their bath based on their favorite type of wine to drink, but the different grapes actually serve different purposes for the skin. “The Pinot Noir Bath is enriched in stimulating and exfoliating red vine extract for our most concentrated antioxidant soak. The red vine extracts help to strengthen the capillaries to improve the blood circulation, and the skin is more radiant. It’s a deeply therapeutic soak that’s both detoxifying and rejuvenating. The Chardonnay Bath is better suited to soften skin and to relax muscles, and the Sparkling Bath is ideal for people with sensitive skin,” says spa manager Christina Seely.

The Grapevine: Along with high visibility on the spa’s website and the concierge’s recommendations (especially to those looking for natural treatments), the spa also invites local Bay Area residents to try the treatments for 20 percent off Sunday through Thursday.

VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

Wine Body Wrap with Red Wine Resveratrol Facial 75 minutes, $150 Spa Xanadu Arcadia, Calif.

Description: The treatment starts with a champagne and rose oil body exfoliation followed by the vino body wine wrap that’s prepared with freshly ground red grapes combined with oak, white clay and dried grape skin. The treatment also includes a facial mask with red wine extract and grape skin, a scalp massage, and finishes off with an organic Cabernet grape body cream and a glass of fresh grape juice for the client to enjoy.

How It Works: The wrap is a great treatment for dry and damaged skin and is especially popular after winter. “The vinotherapy found in red wine are flavonoids, polyphenols, and specifically resveratrol, which acts as anti-inflammatory and has antioxidants to prevent harmful cellular damage. This body and face treatment works perfectly for those whose have dry, aging, rough, sun-damaged, and dehydrated skin. Utilizing the powerful anti-oxidant and exfoliating properties of the grape, the wine wrap dissolves dead skin cells, deeply hydrates, and fades age spots due to over exposure of the sun,” says owner Donna Kan. The Grapevine: The spa markets this treatment around wedding season (spring and summer) as a pre-wedding body treatment for brides and their bridal parties to have radiant, smooth, and glowing skin on that special day. “We’ve also begun to market this wrap as a Valentine’s Day special because we serve champagne to our guests every year during Valentine’s Day anyway and it paired very well with the wine wrap,” adds Kan.

What they say… from Heather Fowler Spa directors and owners dish on how vinotherapy adds some magic into their spas, courtesy of Heather Fowler, Business Development Manager of Skin Fitness Therapy.

Brenda Lancaster, owner of RA Organic Spa in Burbank, Calif., says, “Partnering our spa services with our family-owned restaurant allows us to offer our guests a complete vinotherapy experience that includes chocolate and wine with their spa service. This makes holidays like Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day festive and fun for our guests.”

Ava Hennessey, Spa Director at Agua Spa at the Delano Hotel in Miami Beach, loves to offer vinotherapy treatments and products “because they are full of skin-loving antioxidants and are super hydrating for dry and sun parched skin. They also are a playful choice on the menu for people looking to try something a little different.”

Jilian Rodriguez, Spa Director at the Hilton Spa Palm Springs, says “the addition of vinotherapy to our spa menu has been integral in staying with spa trends…

Clients are loving a new, fun way to enjoy wine and reaping the benefits.”

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Vineyard Body Bliss

Description: This renewing body treatment, featuring grape seed extracts, begins with an antioxidant-rich chardonnay body buff to exfoliate all dull and dry skin before getting wrapped in a nourishing cocoon of chardonnay shea butter.

The grape seed extract is derived from ground up seeds of chardonnay grapes.

How It Works: “The treatment starts out with a body scrub using grape seed extract, followed by a light body massage using the Chardonnay Shea butter – also with grape seed extract – followed by a wrap. The Shea butter really replenishes the body with nutrients and antioxidants for a lasting hydration. The treatment helps to increase circulation, reduce swelling, relieve water retention and is ultra-hydrating,” says spa director Leah Strohecker.

The Grapevine: The spa has thrown events where they had wine pairings with this treatment.

“It has been a great way to introduce the benefits of vinotherapy, as well as help our guests unwind and relax while contributing to their wellbeing,” says Strohecker.

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HANDS & FEET

50 minutes, $145 / 80 minutes, $195 Spa at L’Auberge Del Mar Del Mar, Calif.

VINOTHERAPY GUIDE

Vineyard Hands & Feet 120 minutes, $140 (Monday-Thursday)/ $150 (Friday-Sunday) The Spa at the Hotel Hershey Hershey, Penn.

Description: This luxurious nail service starts with a red wine soak for the client’s fingers and toes, followed by a gentle exfoliating red wine scrub on the arms, hands, lower legs, and feet, and finishes off with red wine lotion. It’s topped off with polish for their fingers and toes and a glass of red or white wine.

How It Works: The grapes and their by-products provide an excellent source of vitamins E and C, and antioxidants. “Our intoxicatingly scented soak product combines mineral-rich Israeli Dead Sea salt and moisturizing grape seed oil to feed and nourish the skin. Grape seed oil also helps to tighten the skin and even skin tone. The scrub uses honey crystals and poppy seed to exfoliate and soften the skin.

Grape seed, avocado, and safflower seed oils moisturize and smooth the skin. Combining the moisturizing benefits of grape seed oil and shea butter, this decadent lotion also includes the antioxidant-rich properties of cocoa seed butter and grape seed extract to protect and repair the skin,” says spa director Shian R. Wing.

The Grapevine: One way the spa promotes their wine treatments, which are available in September and October and also include the Red, Red Wine Package (featuring a soaking tub, body scrub, manicure/pedicure, and lunch), is by tying it into their annual Wine & Food Festival at The Hotel Hershey. “The spa will have a table set up with complimentary sunscreen for guests, as well as information about our treatments,” Wing adds. n

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h t u o y f o in a t n u fo e h T

‌ e in w in d n u fo e b y ll may actua 5

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1. Devine Chianti Body Nourishing Body Lotion devineshimmers.com 2. Prosana Skin & Body Wine Extract Crystal Eye Mask universalcompanies.com 3. Skin Fitness Red Wine Therapy Kit skinfitnesstherapy.com 90

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4. Rhonda Allison Blushed Wine Gel rhondaallison.com

7. Innarah Wine Skin Peel innarah.com

5. Eminence Organic Skin Care Mimosa Champagne Massage Oil eminenceorganics.com

8. LCN Red Wine Leaf Foot Peeling lcnprofessional.com

6. Rhonda Allison Apple Wine Peel rhondaallison.com

9. Napa Organics Grapeseed & Clay Mask Treatment napaorganics.com

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Vinotherapy must-haves for ultimate radiance!

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10. CBI Laboratories Grape Wine Peel cbiskincare.com

14. Makes Scents Natural Spa Line Red Red Wine Handmade Body Scrub makesscentsspaline.com

17. D’vine Pinot Blanc Cream dvinellc.com

11. Bella Schneider Beauty Royal Rose Youth Restore Serum bellaschneiderbeauty.com

15. Christina USA Chateau De Beauté Vino Sheen Fusion shop.christina-usa.com

18. Skin Care Fundamentals Grape Seed Collagen Mask scfstore.com

16. ilike Organic Skin Care Grape Stem Cell Solutions Gel Mask szepelet.com

19. Janssen Cosmetics Creamy Body Pack “VINESSE” janssen-cosmetics.com

12. Farmhouse Fresh Wine Down farmhousefreshgoods.com 13. Bella Luccè Bacchus Body Oil bellalucce.com

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Grape Seed Extract nature’s treasure

1. Meg 21 Cell Therapy meg21.com

2 1

2. Osmosis Replenish osmosisskincare.com 3

3. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Aquaporin Hydrating Cream circadia.com

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Grape Seed Oil delights for youth

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Resveratrol

miracle ingredient

2 1. Repêchage Vita Cura Triple Action Body Soufflé repechage.com 2. Doll Face Nourish dollfacebeauty.com

1. Derma MD Vitamin C + Resveratrol Collagen Booster dermamdskincare.com 2. HydroPeptide Even Out hydropeptide.com

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3. Caviar of Switzerland 24h Regenerating Cream caviarofswitzerland.com 4. Nature Pure Labs Black Currant C Serum naturepure.com

Mixed and oily skin / sebaceous cysts

Before treatment

Regeneration of tissue

Impure skin

After the fourth Treatment

Aging & sun damaged skin / skin laxity

Skin with poor circulation / pale skin

Scars

Wrinkle formation

After the third treatment

Produkt ScheduleArt.-Nr. Training 2015 for GREENInhalt PEEL®

Skin discoloration

October 5th

Orangeburg, SC

Esthetic Supply Company Orangeburg, South Carolina 29116 800-826-1193 paquininc@mindspring.com

November 9th

Orangeburg, SC

Southwest

November 16th

Houston, TX

December 7th

Houston, TX

October 19th

Fort Wayne, IN

October 26th

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TRENDING TOPICAL

THE

BUSINESS

OF

THE DELIGHTS OF

S a l t y S p a Tr e a t m e n t s by

H

RACHEL DAVITA HARRIS

as salt therapy crossed your radar?

If it isn’t yet at your spa, it’s at a spa near you or will be within the next few years. While in 2010, there were less than 10 dry salt therapy rooms in the United States, today there are more than 100 — and that number is rapidly growing.

As with many natural therapies, salt therapy first gained hold in Europe before crossing the Atlantic. The therapy’s documented origins are in Poland, where locals noticed that men working in salt mines enjoyed better health and younger looking skin than the normal population.

So in 1839 Dr. Feliks Boczkowski opened the first health resort at the Wielickza Salt Mine. The treatment really began to take off after World War II, when more professionals began to work with and document the healing benefits of salt caves.

In 1985 Soviet researchers developed the first halogenerator, a machine that grinds salt into microscopic particles and disperses them in the air. Russians proceeded to conduct a series of experiments documenting the benefits of dry salt therapy. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, the technology spread across Western Europe.

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THE BUSINESS OF SALT

Healing Benefits Salt therapy’s rapid growth can be attributed to the fact that it’s a natural therapy that works. Salt is naturally antimicrobial, anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory. When inhaled into the lungs it opens airway passages by reducing inflammation, drawing out moisture, and killing off unwanted substances.

People who suffer from allergies, asthma, bronchitis, cystic fibrosis and COPD — among other respiratory illnesses — experience relief through salt therapy. On the skin, salt similarly reduces inflammation, kills off bacteria 96

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and helps with cell regeneration, alleviating suffering for people with conditions like acne, eczema or psoriasis.

Use in Spas While some spas today have opened rooms coated in specialty salts, these rooms provide relaxation and psychological benefits, but don’t achieve the extent of the healing achieved by dry salt therapy, or halotherapy, which requires the use of a halogenerator.

Halotherapy is the main form of salt therapy rapidly gaining popularity in the United States today.

THE THERAPY’S DOCUMENTED ORIGINS ARE IN POLAND, WHERE LOCALS NOTICED THAT MEN WORKING IN SALT MINES ENJOYED BETTER HEALTH AND YOUNGER LOOKING SKIN THAN THE NORMAL POPULATION.

Diana Leone of The Salt Studio in Pasadena, Calif., for example, offers a dry salt room for children and a separate dry salt room for adults, alongside

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her spa’s massage and skin care services. Leone offers 45-minute sessions in each room, which comfortably seat five people.

At Remedi Spa & Wellness in East Lansing, Mich., owner Lisa Marie Semerly opted for single-person dry salt therapy chambers to complement her medical spa services.

Clients may choose either an enclosed bed in a private room or a booth in her tranquility lounge. Semerly charges clients by the minute, suggesting a 20-minute session for alleviating skin conditions and up to 45minutes for respiratory conditions.

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components How do you go about creating a salt room?

“To build a salt room you mainly need a halogenerator and a good system of ventilation,” explains Nicole Brown of Health By Choice in Avenutra, Fla. Brown has a 400-square foot salt room to complement her massage and acupuncture services.

Brown, like Leone, also added Himalayan salt to the room walls for added healing benefits.

So that spa owners don’t have to go the journey alone, most halogenator

providers offer consulting as an added service, providing support throughout the entire building process. “We never regretted paying for the consulting,” shares Leone. “The consultants teach you all about salt therapy so it gives you a strong start to your business.”

Cost While the generators themselves range anywhere from $5,000 to $12,000, with the cost of consulting, ventilation, material, labor, and decoration, Leone says, “a room easily costs at minimum $25,000 to create.” Chambers, which come with halogenerators and a ventilation system, range anywhere from $12,000 to $15,000.

For both the chamber and the room, the cost and effort required for maintenance is low.

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THE BUSINESS OF SALT

Halogenerators take pharmeceutical grade salt, which is affordable and readily available. Otherwise, the main maintenance required is cleaning the halogenerator mill, the room or chamber interior, and salt room vents.

Profitability If you’re dreaming up how much you could make per chair in a salt room, Leone warns that getting started can be challenging. “I think it would be really difficult to make it without the other services supporting the salt room,” she says. Leone didn’t invest in advertising, so the Salt Studio’s growth has taken place at a more organic level. “Two years ago when we opened people were very unfamiliar with salt therapy,” she shares. “Once we hit the two-year mark, we were meeting people who knew about us. Now there are a lot of clients coming in.”

At Remedi Spa, on the other hand, the salt chambers are their most popular service. Semerly, who opened her doors this summer, explains, “During our pre-launch we sold hundreds of dollars of minutes for people to come in and use the salt chamber.”

salt treatment spotlight Health by Choice of Aventura, Aventura, Fla. Eight-chair Dry Salt Therapy Room 45-minute sessions for children or adults in a dry salt room. Room is coated in Himalayan salt.

Marketing Wisdom

Cost: $40 for adults, $27 for children

The main stumbling block for all three spas has been the lack of public knowledge about salt therapy. Thus, the secret to success lies in educating others.

The Salt Studio, Pasadena, Calif.

HALOGENERATORS

Five-Chair Adult Dry Salt Therapy Room, Children’s Dry Salt Therapy Room 45-minute sessions for children or adults in designated room. Adult room has a Himalyan salt floor and Himalayan salt on the walls. Children’s room features a salt cave and loose salt on the floor. Events such as yoga, sound baths and chi gong are also offered in the adult salt room.

TAKE PHARMECEUTICAL GRADE SALT, WHICH IS AFFORDABLE AND READILY AVAILABLE. OTHERWISE, THE MAIN MAINTENANCE REQUIRED IS CLEANING THE HALOGENERATOR MILL, THE ROOM OR CHAMBER INTERIOR, AND SALT ROOM VENTS.

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Cost: $45 for adults, $25 for children, event pricing depends on service Remedi Spa & Wellness, East Lansing, Mich.

Single-Person Dry Salt Therapy Bed, Single-Person Dry Salt Therapy Booth Sessions last for 20 minutes or longer depending on the condition being treated. Dry salt bed contains a layer of Himalayan salt below the supportive platform.

Cost: $1 per minute

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For Leone, the growing popularity of the salt room at the Salt Studio has come from “being out in the community and networking with other alternative health care people.”

“Lots of chiropractors and acupuncturists now refer to us,” she shares.

The Salt Studio has also recently begun offering events such as meditation, yoga nidra and sound healing in the room, which has drawn people in as well. Finally, Leone offers use of the salt room to her spa clients for half price, thereby exposing more people to the room.

Remedi Spa & Wellness’s wild early success with salt therapy can be attributed to Semerly leveraging her relationships with the medical community and the community at large. “We’re out talking to people in the community all day,” she shares. “Almost every body has or can name someone with one of the conditions salt therapy cures. The key is to position salt therapy as both

a clinical and all-natural treatment that can help people reduce their medication intake.” Semerly additionally met with dozens of specialty physicians pre-launch. “My best practice is I have beautiful portfolios with information on salt therapy geared toward the medical community with background information and supporting data,” she explains. “I also include a couple of gift certificates in these portfolios.” She gives these brochures to doctors along with brochures for client waiting rooms.

Semerly additionally recommends doing presentations for local coalitions such as the asthma coalition to easily get in front of many professionals who can refer clients.

Client Responses

to go away within one session,” shares Leone. “We’ve also had so many kids be able to reduce their asthma and allergy medication intake.” Brown shares how salt therapy has lessened jaw and back pain for her clients due to the extreme relaxation they experience.

For all three spas, the most common response is contentment and relaxation after a treatment. “I believed in salt therapy before,” says Leone, “but now that I’ve seen it work, the results are what doing this is all about.” n

Rachel Davita Harris is a writer based in Miami, Fla. She writes about beauty, health, spirituality, local people and places, and produces marketing materials for businesses. Rachel is passionate about

For all spas, client responses range from the extreme to the mundane. “One of the most dramatic things that we’ve seen happen is for a long-term cough

helping women experience their beauty and power, and teaches personal story writing classes for women to help them express what it means to be a woman today.

Biomani Advanced Medical Aesthetics & Laser Certification Institute Fathi G Fam, MD. MS. 855.238.8333

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Medical Aesthetics Certification:

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Our program integrates aesthetics with para-medical knowledge and prepares aestheticians, cosmetologists and nurses to perform advanced and up-to-date skin care techniques. The classes are small and the hands-on is one-on-one on live models. The program is carried out on scientific, no-nonsense advanced and up-to-date aesthetics knowledge and techniques.

As of May,2015 you earn free 4 hrs of CE for renewal of your cosmetology license (TX only) by attending the class.

Laser Certification Program:

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The program teaches Laser science in depth to certify our students to practice laser skin techniques and modalities safely and precisely. Our classes are small to make sure each student is capturing the knowledge he/she needs to perform laser techniques and procedures and allowing them to achieve their goal in their new career. Our program certifies you as LSO which is included in the tuition.

Biomani SkinCare products are the vital difference that brings your skin to life. They provide the latest, most advanced therapeutic ingredients for the protection of skin against the effects of time and environment. Biomani advanced bio-formulation smoothes fine lines, hydrates and rejuvenates with a touch that stays deep in the skin. The results are impressive, younger-looking skin with visible renewed texture and an after glow that lasts. Try Biomani today and you will receive compliments galore. www.biomaniskincare.com

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woods I N T O

T H E

THE HEALING PROPERTIES OF

forest bathing A

rtemis is the goddess of the hunt and the natural environment. She was famous for bathing in the woods at night with her tribe of women. Given that today there is so much technology intended to make our lives easier and continuously entertaining, Artemis may suffer the modern affliction of anxiety. We have left behind the art of appreciating nature and connecting as a universal tribe. Ubiquitous technology is linked to stress, fatigue and depression. Humanity’s massive digital movement is a major factor in the reduction of melatonin levels in the brain, which causes a disruption in our circadian rhythms preventing deep, restorative sleep.

The role of the health facilities in the community has evolved as well. The Spa is no longer defined as a place to go and relax for a few hours, but as an active promoter of overall health. From nutrition to exercise and meditation, spas across the world are finding ways to help their clients lead lives that are more tranquil and fulfilling.

by Trina DuBois

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PERFECT

timing Despite the drop in temperatures, fall is the ideal time to participate in Forest Bathing. It is a season of phenomenal beauty: a time for reflection and introspection.

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INTO THE WOODS

HOT SPA

trend

Ancient remedies for modern problems are now in vogue starting with Shinrin-yoku, also known as forest bathing. Originally a venerable Japanese tradition, it re-emerged as a health trend in the mid-1980s and is currently considered a form of preventative health care, with mental and physical benefits for the people who practice it.

While the term might make you think of groups bathing in forest waters, it is much simpler than that. Forest bathing is simply a nature walk.

The healing environment of the woods is the perfect incubator of mental and spiritual health, and spas are starting to take notice. There is a good reason for this, as forest bathing may reduce stress levels, lower blood pressure, promote better sleep, and improve mood.

Ubiquitous technology is linked to stress, fatigue and depression.

Humanity’s massive digital movement is a major factor in the reduction of melatonin levels in the brain, which causes a disruption in our circadian rhythms preventing deep, restorative sleep.

Stress and Cortisol Parting ways with civilization and technology for a couple of hours just might be one of the healthiest things you could do. According to a study supported by Grants-in-Aid for Scientific Research that encompassed subjects in 106

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Female Client Participating in Shinrin-yoku Excursion.

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INTO THE WOODS

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“Originally a venerable Japanese tradition, it re-emerged as a health trend in the mid-1980s and is currently considered a form of preventative health care.” twenty-four forests in rural Japan, strolling through wooded areas plummet stress levels after a short 15 minutes.

While it may be difficult to find an oasis of quiet, particularly in more urban areas, controlling stress is important.

This modern affliction can become chronic and cause an array of health problems.

The subjects also showed lower levels of cortisol, a hormone, which when uncontrolled is responsible for hypertension, high blood sugar, bone loss, reduced libido and fat deposits on the face.

Immune System Boost One of the greatest benefits of Shinrin-yoku might come from breathing in natural phytoncides, volatile, anti-microbial substances produced by plants and trees to protect themselves against insects. They are widely extracted for use in holistic medicine and aromatherapy. Upon entering our bodies, production of a particular kind of white blood cell (the Natural Killer Cell or NK) is increased, improving our body’s ability to fend off and fight cancer.

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INTO THE WOODS

SHINRIN-YOKU SPOTLIGHT: The Lodge at Woodloch

H AW L E Y, P E N N .

The lodge began offering Shinrin-yoku excursions in 2013. Led by master herbalist Nathaniel Whitmore, they consist of guided walks into the spa’s private, 150-acre forest.

1 1 0 M I N U T E S , C O M P L I M E N TA RY F O R G U E ST S

L’ Auberge de Sedona SEDONA, AZ

Includes Shinrin-yoku as part of their “Connecting with Nature” activity. A certified facilitator guides a group of spa guests through trails in the property. Also available are private packages for a more personalized experience.

6 0 M I N U T E S , C O M P L I M E N TA RY

Big Cedar Lodge RIDGEDALE, MS

With more than 800 acres in the Missouri Ozarks, the lodge offers the perfect location to get immersed and reconnect with nature.

Glowing Rectangles

Better Focus

Reduces Blood Sugar

Per Harvard Health Publications, several studies performed in the United States have concluded that exposure to the outdoors improves concentration and focus. In one study, conducted by child environment and behavior researchers Andrea Faber Taylor and Frances E. Kuo, researchers at the University of Illinois, followed a group of 17 children suffering from ADHD during a 20-minute walk through a park.

The research concluded that the walk was just as, if not more effective, than the drug Ritalin. This could prove to be an inexpensive, drug-free option for individuals suffering from attention disorders. Nature might not be a cure all for everything, but neither is prescription medication of which we do not know the long-term effects.

A separate study published by the International Journal of Biometeorology in 1998 examined 87 patients suffering from diabetes over the course of six years. The pool was split into groups A and B, with group B taking part in nine Shinrin-yoku sessions during that period.

The study concluded that blood glucose levels had significantly decreased in group B, while group A’s levels had remained the same.

Furthermore, the subjects reported an improvement in cognitive functions often affected by sleep deprivation, such as performance, alertness, and memory.

Common Link: Sleep

Experience Nature

A common benefit reported in nearly every study conducted on Shinrin-yoku is improved sleep. Nearly all subjects who participated in some type of outdoor excursions reported longer and more refreshing sleep.

Encourage your clients to experience this natural phenomenon through their five senses. The sounds of the forest such as birds or streams in addition to the vibrant colors that seem to captivate the nose as well as the eyes are

A report published by researchers

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at Stanford University suggests that a vast majority of Americans spend 90 percent of their waking hours staring at LED screens, whether that is a phone, computer, tablet or television.

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Farms and ranches: If your spa is located near a rural area, contact ranch and farm owners about the possibility of hosting excursions on their private lands.

Be a Trailblazer some ways to be present in nature.

Other ways to incorporate the five senses include eating some berries or being tactile with tree bark.

Implementation Shinrin-yoku presents various challenges for the spa owner, the most obvious being a lack of space. Here are several location alternatives:

Local parks: Free of charge and easily accessible, they can provide the perfect location for your excursion. TIP: Pay attention to the “quiet” hours, normally the early hours of the morning.

National parks: Mostly fee-based, but worth it for groups. Contact the park’s administration and inquire about rules and regulations for activities, as well as what days are the least transited.

There is no better time to get in on this hot spa trend than right now. As your clients’ expectations of your spa increase, so should your wellness offerings. The health benefits of Shinrin-yoku are clear, so it makes perfect sense to include it as an item on your menu.

Turn into a trailblazer in your industry and become the first spa in your area to offer this incredible experience!

Indulge your inner Artemis by exploring Shinrin-yoku. n

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Agera’s Vitamin C essentials, for smooth, radiant skin!

Microderma Crystal C System and MagC Peptide Serum.

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877.656.5188

Skin knows.

From the purest ingredients, to our innovative formulations, quality is something the skin can feel.

Clients indulge in it.

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The Hyaluronic Time Erase ComplexTM Body Lotion from ilike organic skin care is certified organic and fortified with ingredients that go beyond just hydrating the skin.

Natural beauty lovers will enjoy more youthful, healthier looking skin all over. The organic daily moisturizer turns back the clock by boosting collagen production, filling wrinkles from within, hydrating deep beneath the surface, and revitalizing skin for visibly softer, younger looking skin.

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2 for 1 Goodness The Organic Coconut Pre-cleanse Oil from Om Aroma is a 2-in-1 makeup remover with antiaging benefits and conditioner for long lashes.

It erases even the most stubborn mascara and nourishes for full lashes while reducing fine lines. The subtle scent of fresh coconut with hints of jasmine and lavender is gentle enough for even the most sensitive skin types.

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Daily Dessert for Skin Practically a recipe for the perfect dessert, Pudding Apeel from Farmhouse Fresh is a gentle and delectable resurfacing mask that gently exfoliates using glycolic acid and alpha hydroxy acids provided by various fruit extracts.

It hydrates the skin with moisturizing honey and coconut milk, soothing green tea and honeysuckle extracts. It helps support skin’s cell turnover, revealing newer, youngerlooking skin, helping to control acne and improve the appearance of sun-damaged and aging skin.

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Putting Skin in Check

by Balancing It Balance skin to promote wellness with DermAware’s Ayurvedic Endotherm Peel & Mask Set, as heat is pulled out to leave skin cool, calm and beautiful. Sage and cardamom calm and boost healing while gooseberry cools and delivers high doses of vitamin C needed for collagen synthesis. This refreshing sensory experience makes it a wonderful adjunct to any facial room! It is recommended to calm sensitive skin, reduce redness/rosacea, control acne or post resurfacing inflammation.

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As the leading creator of infrared wellness for more than 35 years, Health Mate continues to provide excellent craftsmanship and innovative technology. The Health Mate sauna is made from 100 percent Western red cedar, and crafted from nature to nurture. With each step along the process adhering to strict certifications, every detail is examined and considered to create a 100 percent green product that delivers wellness to all.

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Natural Cellular Boost

New Innovation, Ancient Remedy Gua Sha is the Chinese medical practice of using a flat surfaced, smooth instrument to improve pranic flow, remove toxins, and soften scar tissue. The Kansa Gua Sha from Diamond Way Ayurveda is a tool that not only works mechanically to achieve these results, but also adds the healing dimension of this ancient bronze, creating deep and rapid results. The tool comes in two sizes — medium and large, and can be used for massage, esthetic, and medical purposes.

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

Eco-savvy Wellness

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october 2015

800.291.1130 saian.net

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Gem-sational!

The brand new VitaJuwel ViA gemwater bottle is your clients’ personal SPA on-the go! It comes with an exchangeable gemstone pod, and is the most beautiful way to inspirit one to drink their water. ViA is already a best-seller in Europe, and a great way for spa customers to start thinking green and stop using plastic bottles. Available in 17 fascinating gemstone blends.

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The Amino-Lift Mask from SAIAN is a leaveon peptide mask comprised of argireline, hyaluronic acid, Matrixyl-3000 and CoQ10. CoQ-10 is a natural substance found in every cell of the human body as well as the tissue of plants. CoQ-10 (also known as “ubiquinone”) is a vitamin-like antioxidant that boosts cellular activity. It helps to fortify the skin’s defenses against UV damage, while reducing the appearance of wrinkles and strengthening cell membranes.

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Let’s Talk

MAKEUP With Laura Anne Pelliccio Spa Manager at Gurneys Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa

Perfecting the bridal look

The Big Day of Beauty at Gurneys Montauk Laura Anne Pelliccio is the Salon and Spa Manager at Gurneys Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa, as well as a licensed esthetician in the state of New York. She is the cofounder of Spa SoirĂŠe, an industry networking mixer. Pelliccio is well-rounded in ground level start-up spa operations, spa management, treatment room services, and profitable development of luxury resorts and spas. As an active member of the Hamptons community, she is involved in fundraising for various causes as well as a seasoned columnist.

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Why did you decide to implement makeup into the spa?

Gurneys Montauk is a 44-treatment room spa, and our salon, the Ocean View Salon and its beautifully renovated bridal suite, caters to the beauty needs of more than 70 destination weddings in roughly eight months.

How did you select makeup artists?

Our estheticians are very seasoned and must go through advanced trainings all year. They worked here for over one, two, and three decades. I prefer to hire from within our team as

opposed to outsourcing. I am willing to provide education to any of my ladies who wish to learn. Makeup is a form of art, they have to want it, and to understand bridal makeup, skin types of all ages and efficiently applying to all skin colors, lash applications, and excellent customer service.

Describe the makeup area of the spa.

We have two naturally well-lit areas dedicated to our makeup artists in the Ocean View Salon as well as in the bridal suite, to provide touch-ups to

their wedding day. We also cover tattoos. Airbrushing is quite expensive but incredibly popular amongst our brides and celebrities. We offer classic makeup applications for bridesmaids too.

How do you promote your makeup services?

We don’t have to work too hard at it.

Our staff always wears the makeup, including the front desk representatives... and me of course!

How popular are your makeup services?

We have bridal pampering going on three days a week, plus, we are in the Hamptons so photo shoots, TV shows and local socialites are always in need of our attention! our bride just before she walks down the aisle. There is a beautiful tester unit available for our salon guests to play with, which is also visible to ongoing traffic passing by.

What kind of makeup treatments do you offer on the menu?

We offer makeup trials for our brides where they can experience both styles of cream makeup and airbrush as well as the optional lash extensions. This allows the brides to develop a relationship with the makeup artist who will be working on them on

What makeup services have the most success?

Makeup trials. This sets the tone for the entire bridal party (for weddings).

Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment?

We don’t push sales in the treatment room. We are renowned for facials and the treatment rooms are located within the same close area as makeup, so the estheticians are able to sell product, but facials are a whole separate entity here.

How did you choose your makeup line?

I needed something of quality, something that is beautifully packaged...

It’s a plus that our brand has a spa and training institute in the city… I was just sold on it due to their professionalism alone.

For what occasions do you hold special promotions for makeup? And how far in advance do you prepare for these?

Anywhere from one to three months depending on the size of the event, and if invitations or newsletters need to be distributed. Our partner has been an amazing sponsor for the industry networking mixers I host. We depend on our reps for support and many times we will host a makeup event or provide complimentary makeup services for our frequent local spa guests and members.

How profitable are makeup services? Where does makeup rank in your spa revenue composition?

Makeup is fourth on the list in profitable treatments but an enormous revenue stream for us. We roughly generate $10,000-$12,000 a month in services alone April through October. n

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Brow-High Beauty

In vogue services for your clients...

B

rows have been an ever-evolving facial feature throughout history, with trends moving from thick to thin, rounded to

arched and back again. Celebrities, models, musicians and other fashion icons have set and reset the tone for every imaginable extreme, while runway artists tend to push the envelope even further using augmentations like feathers, rhinestones and metallic appliquĂŠs. There are no limits to what can be done with the eyebrows today.

by Shawn Towne

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BROW INTERPRETATION The brows can set the tone for one’s entire look, and create an interesting impression of their persona. During old silent films, the darker, thicker, more intense and sharply arched brows were often worn by the sinister or villainous characters while thinner, lighter, more rounded brows were worn by the story’s heroine.

Many women believe that thicker, fuller brows create a more youthful appearance. Isn’t it interesting that every teenage girl who wants to look older intuitively starts by tweezing her brows? And as a beauty professional, you’ve no doubt heard the ironic lament of women who wish they hadn’t tweezed their brows out in their youth.

CLIENT GUIDANCE The problem that clients and professionals alike face right now is making the brows look stylish, attractive and just intense enough without going too far. For professionals, the question is this: With all the options out there, which one is best for my client and how can I translate that into something simple enough for them to understand?

As beauty professionals, we have become the key resource for brow enhancement. Fewer women are going to the drugstore or makeup counter to buy that same old brow pencil. There’s a wide range of brow products to choose from, and clients need professionals to teach them how to use them.

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PRE-SERVICE CONSULTATION An excellent starting point for this guidance is the pre-service consultation. Remember that there are no specific demographics or ethnicities that will determine what kind of brows your client may like, as all women have their own individual style. Therefore asking your client the right questions should always come first, such as the following: • Do you ever enhance your brows?

• What kind of products do you use on them?

• What would you like to change about your brows?

Also consider her hair color, the depth of her skin and the makeup she wears. Dramatic or soft eyes? Dark or light lips? Darker skin requires darker brows — even if the hair is lighter. At the other end of the spectrum, if the skin is very pale, you want to avoid going too dark — even if the hair is very dark.

One of the most commonly overlooked elements to good brows is making sure that the skin around the brows has no redness or shine, but is clean and matte.

BRING BROWS INTO FOCUS Oftentimes, women want to accentuate their brows but they don’t want them to look like they’ve been filled in or drawn on. This is a perfect occasion for tinting the brows with hair color as a starting point. Once the hairs of the brows have been enhanced, you can reevaluate and consider the next steps. If she still wants more intensity, apply a brow gel. Brow gels don’t just add color, they can give the brows direction so they look more refined.

The process is incremental, so starting lighter and going gradually darker is the safest technique.

DEFINING PROTOCOL

1. Start with the skin around the brows. One of the most commonly overlooked elements to good brows is making sure that the skin around the brows has no redness or shine, but is clean and matte. Tweeze any hairs that are outside the shape you want to create. This makes the brows stand out and highlights their shape.

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Illustrations by Shawn Towne

Follow these steps to achieve well-defined, full brows with just the right color for each client:

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2. Direct the brows with a wax or pomade. Wax can come in pots, kits with powders and even in pencil form. Brush them with a spoolie afterward to work the product in and give the brows a consistent direction.

3. Fill in the brows with a powder to give them a more dense appearance. The powder will usually adhere to the wax or pomade used.

4. Frame the brows with a pencil. Keep in mind that going slightly underneath the brow in the front and above the brow from the arch out creates a more lifted appearance. Use your spoolie to blend the color in as you go. *Tip: Use a very sharp pencil and make small strokes that resemble little hairs.

5. For longevity and more refinement, seal the look with a brow gel. Many gels come in colors such as blonde, auburn or brunette.

A service like the one detailed above can run from $40 to $150 depending on your geographic location and time spent. On average, a good brow session takes between 20 and 45 minutes. Don’t include a brow session as part of a typical makeover — schedule it separately from makeup applications. Your talent and time are valuable! n

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Shawn Towne, the global educator of jane iredale— THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®, has worked as a makeup artist for over 20 years. His talent has been featured in fashion magazines, runway shows, television commercials and feature films. Towne has worked with celebrities such as Mariel Hemingway, Eartha Kitt and Luke Wilson. He worked with the jane iredale team on the 2008 Fashion Week runway shows, and most recently taught classes in the Far East.

Illustrations by Shawn Towne

SERVICE STATS

SEE YOU AT ICES PHILADELPHIA, OCTOBER 25 & 26

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Fabulously Flawless RA Illuma Colour Natural Mineral Collection,from Rhonda Allison includes a Natural Mineral Crème and Mineral Powder that uses potent antioxidants, vitamins and minerals to give the skin a natural, luminous glow, and flawless, fresh complexion, while providing sun protection and pro-youth support.

866.313.SKIN (7546) rhondaallison.com

Plumping Peptides

800.932.9873 Hydropeptide.com

Deep Sea Conditioning for Lips The Perfect Skin Conditioning Lip Gloss from Repêchage is a unique formula of ascophyllum nodosum seaweed, shea butter and mafura oil work to hydrate and nourish for full, luscious lips. It’s deep conditioning you can see and feel.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

The Perfecting Gloss: Lip Enhancing Treatment from HydroPeptide restores lip fullness, volume and definition within minutes while delivering long-lasting suppleness and hydration. A triplesized hyaluronic acid complex and warming peptide enhance lip volume immediately by improving elasticity and hydration while helping to smooth the appearance of wrinkles. A plumping peptide supports collagen synthesis for lips that stay supple and look fuller between applications.

800.248.7546 repechage.com

Sumptuous Lip Protection These new PoutPot lip liners from Synergie Skin Australia by Skin Elegance make lips not only look good, but benefit from active ingredients that nourish and protect them too: vitamin E and broad spectrum UV-protecting titanium dioxide. Available in three-all natural colors, Poutpots also double as lip stains, either alone or for use under Synergie’s eight moisturizing Lip Glass lip glosses.

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ADVERTISER INDEX Page Number

Reader Service No.

27............... Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts.......................... arcskincare.com............................................................... 120 112............. Agera Laboratories................................................. ageralabs.com................................................................. 221 53............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 127............. Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 57............... Avery Graham......................................................... averygraham.com............................................................ 355 108............. Beau Institute Of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 51............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 102............. Biomani Scientific Skin Care.................................... biomaniskincare.com....................................................... 276 111............. Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................. 335 132............. Blue Beautifly.......................................................... bluebeautifly.com............................................................ 214 113............. Bon Vital.................................................................. bonvital.com................................................................... 265 93............... Christine Schrammek.............................................. schrammek.com.............................................................. 166 97............... Circadia................................................................... circadia.com.................................................................... 101 47............... Dermaware.............................................................. dermaware.com.............................................................. 256 123............. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro Usa............................................................ equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 49............... France Laure........................................................... francelaure.com............................................................... 199 45............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 21,55.......... Grandelash - Md..................................................... grandelash-md.com........................................................ 286 5................. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 41............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 63............... Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 35-40......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia........... philadelphia.skincareshows.com 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 101,103...... Le Mieux Cosmetics / PurErb................................. lemieuxcosmetics.com / purerbskincare.com.................... 294 65............... Lira Clinical.............................................................. liraclinical.com................................................................. 203 115............. Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 107............. MEG 21................................................................... meg21.com..................................................................... 344 8................. Nature Pure Labs.................................................... naturepure.com............................................................... 316 25............... Nufree Finipil.......................................................... nufree-professionals.com................................................. 348 129............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 80,81.......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 125............. Revitalash................................................................ revitalash.com................................................................. 346 14............... Saian....................................................................... saian.net.......................................................................... 165 19............... Satin Smooth........................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................. 304 66............... Select Spa Source / Hairaway................................. resinebyhairaway.com...................................................... 253 109............. Sesha Skin Therapy................................................. seshaskin.com................................................................. 271 15............... Shira Cosmetics....................................................... shirausa.com................................................................... 249 117............. Silhouet-tone.......................................................... silhouettone.com............................................................. 192 67............... Sothys..................................................................... sothys-usa.com.com........................................................ 306 99............... TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims.

Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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