LNE & Spa - August 2016 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals August 2016

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from the

editor

The last stretch of summer is a time to celebrate. As one season winds down, another — autumn — brings the promise of new knowledge and innovation. As you cast off your beach hat for those final beach trips, the August issue of Les Esthétiques & Spa highlights “scalp as the new skin” with spa treatments to cleanse, exfoliate and detoxify the crown. Explore high-tech scalp treatments, learn about four key types of scalp massage and embrace permanent makeup for scalps. Discover why essential fatty acids nourish skin from the inside out, and how to create long-term acne solutions for young adults. Before September, set goals to get ahead and learn which spa treatments can relieve your clients’ PMS symptoms. Gain essential knowledge to boost your skin care business with an inside scoop on creating captivating content for your own YouTube Channel. Think beyond your spa’s four walls with wilderness treatments and consider how to market your spa seasonally. Blend makeup with skin care via the cleanest ingredients. Get in the know about strobing, the highlight trick that is taking the makeup industry by storm.

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Savor the last days of summer, but get ready to devour our new insights and tips to make fall your best season yet!

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com

AUGUST 2016

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AU G U S T 20 16

V o lume 3 1

N umbe r 8

CONTENTS SKIN

Skin Craves Essential Fatty Acids Teen Skin Care Zone Skin News

12 18 25

ORGANIC & WELLNESS

Soy in Skin Care 100 Wild Spa Treatments 104 Organic & Wellness News 112

Wild Spa Treatments page 104

Teen Skin Care Zone page 18

SPA

Spa of the Month PMS? Spas Can do the Trick Spa News

26 32 40

Strobing?! page 124

IMAGE

BUSINESS

Behind the Spa Door with William Wesley Myers The Path to Success Innovate with a YouTube Channel The Power of Hashtags Business News

SCALP GUIDE

Thinking of Adding Makeup to Your Spa? Blending Makeup and Skin Care Strobing?! Image News

50 52 56 62 68

Our Scalp: The Hidden Frontier 70 Scalp Skin Care 72 4 Key Types of Scalp Massage 76 High-Tech Head Treatments 82 Permanent Makeup for Scalps 88 Scalp Product Photo Feature 96

EXTRAS From the Editor Advertiser Index

116 118 124 128

6 130

Cover Scalp Guide page 69

Photography: Helena Palazzi Model: Clair Westenberg IMG Models Styling: James Aguiar Hair and Makeup: Yesenia Vargas

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com

GLOW FACIAL

Editorial Associate Maureen Castellon maureen@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Alan Araya alan@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@LNEonline.com

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Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com

Through August 31, 2016, receive the LNE & SPA Best Winner! Pot of Gold Scrub FREE with GLOW Kit purchase (Retail value $55.00)

Light exfoliation is followed by caviar ampules, gold elixir and an application of gold leaves, leaving skin brilliantly illuminated. Ideal for parties, weddings, and other high-profile events.

VISIT US IN LONG BEACH

BOOTH 419-421 BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com AUGUST 2016

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Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

Rose Marie Beauchemin Carrie Ann Buckingham Caroline Canetti Maureen Castellon Janine Ellenberger, M.D. Andres Gonzalez

C ontributors Trish Green Hannah Hatcher Ami Mallon Kristina Mazzenga

Bella Schneider Louis Silberman Lynda Solien-Wolfe David Suzuki Victoria Tabak Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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skin CRAVES essential fatty acids n o u r i s h s k i n w i t h h e a l t h y fat s by Bella Schneider

Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) or fatty acids are known in scientific parlance as long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids. The well-known benefits of these healthy fats are good for both the body and the skin, leading to a healthier, more glowing and youthful complexion. Since skin cannot produce most essential fatty acids on its own, acids need to be consumed or topically applied to achieve the beauty benefits.

This explains their increasing appearance in the skin care industry.

HOW EFAS

BENEFIT SKIN Omega-3, omega-6 and omega 9 all play a critical role in normal skin functioning and appearance. Retaining high levels of omegas-3, 6 and 9 as one ages improves cellular structure and

function, reinforces lipid content and repairs the skin barrier function. All skin types benefit from this efficient cellular activity and the protection and additional hydration within the lipid barrier. EFAs protect delicate and irritated skin by helping it retain its own moisture levels, reducing skin sensitivity and inflammation. They also protect skin from harmful oxidants and ensure the proper passage of nutrients and waste

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SKIN

SKIN CRAVES ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS

TOPICAL SOLUTIONS All skin types and conditions can benefit in unique ways from topical application of EFAs. The following conditions respond best to specific types of omega sources to address their symptoms.

Very dry skin

Oleic acid replenishes the oil skin loses as one ages, and helps the skin produce sebum, its own natural oil. It makes oils richer and heavier, so they are extra-occlusive. Some oils that fall into this higholeic oil category include olive oil, safflower oil, almond oil and avocado oil.

Aging skin

products in and out of the cells, and maintain the health of cell membranes. These benefits enable proper skin hydration, suppleness and softness, helping skin feel less sensitive. EFAs act like a seal that keep moisture in and irritants out. Both topical application and oral supplementation are an effective means of delivering EFAs and their plethora of benefits to the skin.

TOPICAL BENEFITS Topical application of EFAs benefit many skin conditions (see sidebar ) and provide protection from both pollution and extreme weather conditions such as cold and wind, which can strip away at the skin's lipid barrier. EFAs assist in the preservation of the fluid lipid film coating the skin's surface. This film holds hydration, softness and elasticity in the skin and creates protection from disease-causing organisms and harmful bacteria. This is crucial as the body's ability to produce its own lipid barrier decreases with age, depleting skin of hydration, emollience and youthfulness.

NUTRITIONAL BENEFITS A deficiency of EFAs in the diet is associated with various forms of dermatitis, skin conditions and even mild deficiencies in the skin's ability to heal and renew itself. Adequate consumption of fatty acids, on the other hand, can reduce inflammation associated with rosacea, eczema and psoriasis. Increasing dietary intake of omega-3 fats is an important step toward healing the skin. High levels of these fatty acids have been shown to decrease inflammation. From a nutritional standpoint, taking small amounts of omega-3s, approximately 400 mg a day, or eating oil-rich fish such as mackerel, salmon and herring, replenishes and reduces the skin inflammation causing these conditions. Consuming healthy fats including unsaturated fats, fish oils and nuts improves the overall quality, tone, health and appearance of oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin. Additionally, eating saturated fats and omega-6s, prominent in linoleic acids, keep skin looking its youngest. Small amounts of high quality linoleic fats from whole nuts and seeds such as sunflower seeds, pine nuts, pecans and Brazil nuts or cheese, are all recommended sources of EFAs for preserving skin's youthfulness. 14

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Aging skin responds especially well to higholeic oils that are rich in antioxidants. Good sources include rosehip, argan and camellia oils.

Wrinkles

Rich fatty acids are excellent for fighting wrinkles and skin exposed to aging factors. Good sources include avocado oil, rich in antioxidants and lecithin, which helps the skin generate collagen and combat signs of age, and extra virgin olive oil, a moisturizer rich in fatty acids and vitamin E.

Healing and regeneration

EFAs are helpful in mitigating sun and free radical induced damage. Coconut, almond and olive oils all provide healing and regeneration, and even sunscreen protection ranging from SPF 6 to 8.

Scarring

Coconut, almond and olive oils help treat scarring by improving elasticity and tone. Rosehip seed oil increases skin turnover and reduces scars, discoloration and fine lines.

Acneic skin

Oil dissolves oil. EFAs replace oils that have been sitting on the skin surface and developed bacteria with clean and nutritional oil that replenishes and protects the skin. A blend of castor and olive oils can pull impurities from the skin, making it ideal for oily or combination skin.

Sensitive and eczema skin

Coconut oil gently protects sensitive skin and eczema prone skins. It alleviates sensitivity and protects skin from harmful bacteria.

Dermatitis and irritated skin

EFAs soothe dry and itchy skin. Flaxseed oil has tremendous anti-inflammatory properties to address these issues. Safflower oil is mild and rich in linoleic acid, which also relieves dryness and itching.

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SKIN

SKIN CRAVES ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS

Essential Fatty Acids in Home Care Stock your retail shelves with the following products to provide your clients with the outstanding benefits of EFAs for their home care routines. • Cleansing oils that contain a mixture of botanical oils such as olive, sunflower, sesame, safflower, almond or grape seed. • Moisturizers for normal skin that include jojoba, olive or coconut oils for their mild nature, beneficial components and ease of absorption. For aging skins, argan and rosehip oil provide additional hydration; primrose oil is especially useful in reducing the symptoms of menopausal skin. Sensitive skins benefit from the repairing properties of flaxseed oil. Dry, chapped skin respond well to shea and cocoa butters. • Body lotions containing olive and coconut oils are wonderful for normal skin types. Avocado oil, sesame oil, shea and cocoa butters provide great relief for dry skin and markings.

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• Lip balms with sweet almond, coconut and pomegranate oils are as tasty as they are healing.

INCORPORATE EFAS INTO SPA TREATMENTS Facial treatments: Start the service with an oil cleanser that removes all traces of makeup and completely rinses off the skin. EFAs are wonderful carrier oils that enhance the absorption of other bio-actives. Good sources include sea buckthorn, jojoba, olive, coconut, flaxseed and avocado oils. Combine EFA based oils with a serum application or the massage stage of the facial treatment to create extra hydration, skin suppleness and a luxuriating feeling. Body treatments: Create a treatment to improve skin elasticity, fight bumps and eradicate dryness, incorporating coconut and olive oils or shea butter cream. 

Bella Schneider is the founder and CEO of LaBelle Day Spas & Salons and an international product formulator and distributor through Bella Schneider Beauty (BSB). In her 40 years of experience in skin care science, Schneider has been an innovator in ethnic skin care, peels and peer education.

Challenge the Status Quo of Professional Skincare & Dramatically Increase your Retail & Home Care Sales.

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teen skin care zone

Creating Long-Term Acne Solutions and Healthy Skin Habits by Janine Ellenberger M.D.

Acne is a social barrier. This is especially true because its onset typically coincides with puberty and those already challenging teenage years. I have witnessed the social anxiety that acne causes firsthand when my son and his friends grew their hair out specifically to hide their forehead breakouts. One confided to me that his facial acne had become so dry from an aggressive prescription skin medication that the lesions began to bleed. This kind of approach â&#x20AC;&#x201D; acute, aggressive treatment once acne has already taken hold â&#x20AC;&#x201D; is clearly not effective.

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SKIN

TEEN SKIN CARE ZONE

he typical route to teen acne treatment starts at the drugstore, usually with over-the-counter products that dry out the breakouts. Teens adhere to these regimens temporarily, but then they get busy with life and stop using the products, eventually relapsing into more breakouts. Many of these OTC options contain benzoyl peroxide, which can be irritating and excessively drying. Treatment then escalates, progressing to the dermatologist. The doctor may prescribe strong antibiotics or harsh topical treatments, which often aggravate the condition further. What is lacking in both of these modalities — OTC and prescriptive — is the supportive, long-term skin care that acneic skin so desperately needs. Enter the need for teen-specific services by skilled estheticians. Timing of treatment is crucial, as acne usually begins during puberty

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for both males and females. However, there is a clear gender-connection: boys experience their worst breakouts between ages 16 and 19, while the peak age for girls is slightly earlier at 1417 years. Overall, approximately 85 percent of people between the ages of 12 and 24 experience at least minor acne. For others, the skin problem is more serious. Unfortunately for women, acne often resurfaces later in life, long after the trials of puberty have ended. It is not uncommon for women aged 20 into their 40s to suffer a resurgence of blackheads, whiteheads and painful cysts. Because acne is a long-ter m

problem, it requires a long-term solution — not a quick fix. It requires one-on-one relationships with skilled providers that the acne-sufferer can trust, who guides them through the maze of skin care options available and provides regular advice and services to keep their skin healthy and strong. Estheticians are the perfect candidates to fill this role by identifying the underlying cause of their acne, make lifestyle recommendations based on those causes and propose effective treatments. The following are some of the most common acne causes people encounter, and how to counsel the client in each case.

Because acne is a long-term problem, it requires a long-term solution — not a quick fix.

SKIN

TEEN SKIN CARE ZONE

HORMONES Hormones are, by far, the most frequent cause of severe acne. There is a reason you may have never seen a 5-year old or an 85-year old with acne; the disease begins and ends with hormonal changes in the body. There is a genetic component to it, under which some people have an increased sensitivity to the androgen hormones, but there are steps that can be taken to mitigate symptoms. Recommend the following to your clients: 1. Avoid foods that contain added hormones, and seek out organic options. 2. Use topical products that decrease the sensitivity of the sebaceous gland to the conversion of testosterone to DHT — namely zinc, azelaic acid and vitamin B6.

HYPERKERATINIZATION Hyperkeratinization, another dominant cause of acne, occurs when the outer-most layer of the epidermis thickens, because skin cells do not “slough off” regularly. There is a genetic component to this, but it is aggravated by a lack of essential fatty acids and free water in the diet. The epidermis needs water to facilitate the breaking of desmosomes, which hold the surface corneocytes together. Without sufficient water to disengage the desmosomes, the corneocytes build up and clog pores. Recommend that your clients manage hyperkeratinization through their diet and home care by staying well hydrated, increasing intake of omega-3 fatty acids and using topical forms of vitamin A to stimulate cellular turnover. There are several spa-related procedures that can help alleviate hyperkeratinzation: 1. Chemical exfoliations with fruit acids. 2. Mechanical exfoliation, using clay-based products, works well in lifting stubborn sebum, oils and clogged debris from the skin, while still administering micro-nutrients and water. (Harsh, bead-containing scrubs should be avoided, as they tend to irritate more than ameliorate.) 3. Weekly superficial epidermal peels that use hydrating acids like lactic acid work well in conjunction with the above methods.

BAD BACTERIA Acne can also be exacerbated by overgrowth of P. acnes bacteria. P. acnes is a bacterium that naturally lives on the skin's surface and around the pilosebaceous unit. Here, it feeds on oils and produces propionic acid, which helps maintain the skin's pH—usually between 4.5 and 5.5. Unfortunately, harsh facial cleansers and treatments destroy the bacteria’s food sources, forcing them deeper into the pilosebaceous gland. When free fatty acids (FFAs) are produced here, they are treated as foreign bodies. In response, the consistency of sebum thickens and clogs the follicle, leading to the inflammation characteristic of acne. For bacterial-related acne, there are multiple products that have antibacterial effects. The goal is not to kill all the bacteria, but to manage the commensal flora on the surface of the skin.

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SKIN

TEEN SKIN CARE ZONE

Consider the following home care and in-spa treatment recommendations for clients with acne related to bad bacteria: 1. Perform gentle cleaning, while avoiding harsh, sulfate-filled cleansers. Use hempseed oil, argan oil or chrome abyssinia oil as a pre-cleanser; these oils remove stubborn sebum clogging the pores. Unlike harsher alternatives, these cleansers leave enough substrate for the bacteria to feed on, ensuring that the P. acnes do not need to “dive down” deeper into the pilosebaceous gland. 2. Use products with tea tree oil, mandelic acid, azelaic acid and willow bark, which all can help control the bacterial growth. 3. Use probiotics on the surface of the skin to manage the balance of bacteria there.

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BAD HABITS Acne can also be triggered — or worsened — by poor skin care habits. Good topicals are only one part of a holistic skin care solution. When it comes to skin health, teens (and sometimes adults) are often their own worst enemies. Some of these bad habits are subconscious, like touching the face with grimy fingers or sharing facial towels. Others result from neglect — not cleansing the face in the evening, after exercising or when wearing makeup. Young adults also inadvertently cause more damage in an effort to help their skin. For example, many use damaging harsh scrubs and brushes in an effort to expedite exfoliation. Picking at lesions is another tempting habit, but only leads to scarring. Not using sunscreen is the worst habit, as this leaves the skin susceptible to postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and increased risk of skin cancer.

Estheticians can utilize their expertise to help clients solidify good habits and break bad ones through their home care recommendations and treatments. Additionally, they can arrange for regular facials and mini-peels, both of which leave the skin feeling and looking better overall.

LIFESTYLE The final cause of acne is lifestyle choices, which includes dietary, exercise and hygiene routines. Much research has correlated the consumption of sugar with exacerbated acne flare-ups. In addition to stress, sugar has been known to raise cortisol levels, which results in cellular inflammation, worsening acne. Sweat from exercise, if not removed in a timely manner, can clog pores with epidermal debris, also exacerbating breakouts. An esthetician can utilize their valuable insight to advise clients to follow

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HydraSonic® CLEANS 14X better than manual cleansing. IMPROVES topical product absorption 93%. GENTLE enough to use 2x a day.

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SKIN

TEEN SKIN CARE ZONE

a diet low in processed sugar and high in water and antioxidants. They can recommend young adults keep sporting equipment — like chin straps and helmets — clean, and remind swimmers to hydrate their skin to resist the effects of chlorinated water.

HOME CARE

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An important component of your client guidance is to outline an ideal skin

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care regimen, such as the following: 1. In the morning, cleanse the face with a sulfate-free cleanser and apply sunscreen. 2. After sports practice or other exercise, cleanse the face again with a gentle cleanser, followed by a fruit acidcontaining toner and reapplication of sunscreen. 3. Before bed, apply a pre-cleansing oil prior to a final cleansing, toning with fruit acids and application of a highdose vitamin A serum. 4. Use products whose active ingredients are suspended in a natural base, without harmful preservatives.

function of the epidermis, as this is the body’s first line of defense. While overthe-counter medications, combined with visits to the dermatologist, can certainly help manage acne flare-ups, an ongoing relationship with a reputable esthetician ensures that skin care is a long-term commitment, not an acute solution that ultimately does more harm than good. 

Janine Ellenberger, M.D., has more than 20 years of experience in the esthetic and anti-aging industries. She is the founder of Teenceuticals LLC, a skin care

By investigating the causes of acne, it is easier for an esthetician to address the symptoms, whether they are mild (such as a few blackheads on the chin) or severe (cystic acne and pervasive whiteheads). The focus must be on the maintenance of the integrity of the skin — specifically, the health of the barrier

company dedicated to the research and production of products that cater to the unique needs of teenage skin. Dr. Ellenberger previously served as Medical Director for Dermaconcepts for 10 years. She is an accomplished international speaker with longterm engagements with Canyon Ranch, and maintains an anti-aging practice in the UK.

CLEVER CLEANSER

The Weightless Oil Free Cleanser from RejuvaSea washes away dirt, makeup and impurities to reveal truly clean, soft, refreshed skin. Infused with our proprietary blend of marine-based ingredients, this light, silky gel detoxifies and balances skin without stripping away natural moisture. Powerful RĂŠjuvaPlanktonÂŽ promotes cell turnover and provides advanced antioxidant protection.

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Drought-Proof skin

The Hyaluronic Shea Mask from Le Mieux is a deep conditioning, creamy mask that binds moisture to prevent water loss, dryness and roughness while improving elasticity. The nourishing formula features shea butter and rice extract, plus macadamia nut, borage seed and rosewood oils to provide intensive, long-lasting hydration.

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The unique antioxidant combination of stable vitamin C and beta carotene protects skin and helps minimize environmental damage.

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a genuine jewel

The Diamond Serum from G.M. Collin is a luxurious anti-aging serum that visibly reduces the signs of aging, revitalizes skin and protects it from environmental stressors while enhancing its radiance. Sublimely velvety, this exquisite serum envelops skin, leaving it divinely smooth, soft and radiant while providing your clients with a delightful sensory experience.

800.341.1531 gmcollin.com

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

The Microderma Crystal C System from Agera Labs reveals beautiful, healthy, glowing skin! This unique two-step process is a powerful combination of vitamin C crystals (sodium bicarbonate) and an activating gel (lactic acid), providing both a mechanical and chemical exfoliation. The vitamin C crystals gently buff away dead skin cells, leaving skin smoother and more radiant. The activator provides further exfoliation and stimulates cell renewal.

Not just for the face, this mask is an ideal product to combat the summer effects of dry, summerstressed skin on hands and feet as well.

SkinNews

paired perfection

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nature s pa:

BEYOND the FACIAL ROOM

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Spa of the Month SPA TOWN at

The Resort at Paws Up Greenough, Mont. by Amanda Clinton Winter

he Resort at Paws Up in Greenough, Mont., sets a new standard for "glamping" (glamorous camping) and wilderness treatments. America’s new form of experiential travel combines the great outdoors with luxury and Montana’s premier ranch is fully dedicated to the ultimate guest experience. Spa Town® at Paws Up is a colony of 10 tents, six of which are dedicated to services. With a summer and Christmas season, Paws Up meets the challenges of offering an innovative menu and showing each guest they are valued.

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SPA

SPA OF THE MONTH

TEAM BUILDING Spa Town’s intimate team is comprised of 10 members. They are called to attendance several weeks before the start of the season to be trained by different beauty companies, refresh their knowledge and add techniques to their repertoire. Spa and wellness manager Laura Russell takes continuing education classes during seasonal breaks and encourages her staff to do the same. She maintains an open door policy and kicks off each day with a staff meeting to discuss the latest events or brainstorm solutions to issues. Spa Town management believes that the opportunity for a family sensibility is possible with a culled team. All forms of discussion and brainstorming are encouraged, and each voice is acknowledged and nurtured. The well-being of staff members ranks equally with guests’ well-being at

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Paws Up. Performance reviews are conducted every 90 days, coinciding with the changing seasons. During evaluations, Russell personalizes goals for revenue, continuing education and health. “We stress mental and health goals to complement the spa. After all, the team represents the spa and we curate a culture of well-being,” she explains.

SEASONAL OFFERINGS Seasonal businesses offer unique challenges that require preparation and strategy. Ninety-five percent of spa guests are tourists, and one must rise to the occasion to be remembered and booked in the following seasons. The start of each season becomes an event with fresh offerings on the menu. By reviewing the past season for strengths and challenges, goals can be set and best practices can be shared. The popularity of treatments is gauged to build

the next season’s menu, and to decide what to switch out for new options. Following a recent team meeting with the spa owners, a gold caviar mask is now set to be a new highlight for the opening of Spa Town’s next season. Russell constantly reads magazines, blogs and newsletters to research the latest ingredients and modalities to stay on top of trends that may pique guests’ interests. Spa Town specializes in local and organic ingredients. Product lines that adhere to the philosophy of clean beauty, free of parabens, receive special consideration.

MARKETING Marketing for a seasonal business can be simple if one thinks in longterm goals with immediate steps. Seasonality can be an opportunity to build a relationship with locals to develop branding in the off-season. Word of mouth and referrals have

SPA

proven to be particularly effective, and are the go-to marketing strategy of Spa Town. If a guest makes three referrals that book a service during their stay, the guest receives a discount on their own treatments. The peak season of summer offers an opportunity to not only share great photos on social media, particularly Facebook, but to also send blasts to guests on the Paws Up app encouraging them to book treatments that embody the wilderness angle. In the winter, a reduction in prices complements the Christmas and New Year’s Eve menus, with a marketing focus on season-specific items, such as a crushed candy cane sugar scrub sure to enhance any winter getaway. Starting in 2017, Spa Town will be open for 365 days rather than having only two seasons, which has been the model to date. With this new timeframe, a new effort will be made to attract locals who perceive the spa as

part of the community that welcomes them all year round.

SIGNATURE TREATMENTS Inspired by the fresh air and lush greenery, Spa Town makes a conscious effort to go green with products such as locally sourced Hutterite honey alongside massage stones harvested from the Black River on the property. Halotherapy is a significant trend in the spa industry and Spa Town does not disappoint with the popular Himalayan Salt Stone Massage. Heated three-inch rounded blocks of Himalayan salt are used to relax the body in much the same way that a hot stone massage does, with the added benefit of detoxification (60-minute treatment, $200; 90 minute treatment, $300; 120-minute treatment, $400). Another popular treatment is the Star Light, Star Bright Twilight Massage. Guests book this

SPA OF THE MONTH

relaxing treat before going to sleep to enter a deeper state of unconsciousness. Couples can have the massage in tandem with deep tissue and hot or cold stone add-ons.

LOCAL FLAVOR The menu at Spa Town features indigenous products to the Missoula area. The spa’s green philosophy flows through the menu via organic ingredients that support local businesses. Spa Town partners with local vendors such as Hindu Hillbilly, an apiary and provider of the resort’s essential oils. For items on the children’s menu, a first in the state of Montana, Russell worked with Skinny Dip Candles to formulate candles for use in massages. Owners Nadine, Dave and Larry Lipson sit down with Russell each season to brainstorm new treatments based on locally-sourced and organic

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SPA

SPA OF THE MONTH

RUNDOWN specifications. The key to working with local ingredients is making sure they are responsibly sourced and work well with a range of skin types, while addressing specific needs such as age management and sensitive skin. Using indigenous ingredients also helps the spa reach locals, as vendors have built in audiences who will be attracted to treatments that offer their favorites in innovative ways.

GUEST SERVICES The spa offers guests the unique option of downloading the Paws Up app. Larry Lipson came up with the idea three years ago when considering how to open a direct line of communication between guests and staff. After a meeting of the minds with engineer Natalie Linn, a text

messaging software was designed to cut out the middleman. Guests can send direct queries to a designated staffer for an automatic response. Additional benefits include itineraries, and spa appointment reminders reduce delays and cancellations. Communication is a top priority that Russell is able to nurture on multiple levels — she is the spa director, yoga instructor, licensed massage therapist and crafter of all the organic scrubs made on the property. She is the face of the spa and interacts with every single guest. “We welcome each guest and individualize their experiences to make sure they enjoy every moment of their visit,” she says. By fulfilling key roles at the resort, Russell has multiple interactions with guests so they are comfortable when she promotes spa menu options, and she is open to suggestions for their specific pain points. 

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, MA and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

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40060 Paws Up Road Greenough, Mont. 59823 866.915.5122 Launched: January 2015 Owners: Nadine, Dave and Larry Lipson Spa and Wellness Manager: Laura Russell Staff/guest ratio: 1:23 Client ratio: 60% female, 40% male 95% resort guests Revenue breakdown: 75% massage 10-15% face treatments 5% kids treatments 8-10% retail Retail brands: Hindu Hillbilly Skinny Dip Candles

“Inspired by Nature... realized by Science.”

LU C R ÈCE PH YSICIA N S’ A ESTH ETIC RESEARCH | 800.626.7546 • www.lucrece.com

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PMS ? spas

can do the

trick

Treatments to Relieve Symptoms of Premenstrual Syndrome by Trish Green

ver the past several decades, few medical conditions have received as much attention and stirred up as much controversy as PMS, the common term associated with premenstrual syndrome. A few people might say that there is no such thing as premenstrual syndrome, but try telling that to scores of women who experience some kind of symptoms every month. Some estimate that PMS affects between 20 and 40 percent of menstruating women, with peak incidences occurring in their 30s and 40s. Many women experience mild symptoms, and at least one symptom with some regularity.

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AUGUST 2016

SPA

PMS? SPAS CAN DO THE TRICK

PREMENSTRUAL DYSPHORIC DISORDER (PMDD) VS. PREMENSTRUAL SYNDROME (PMS) There are an estimated 5-10 percent of women who suffer with very severe symptoms. For these women, symptoms meet the criteria for premenstrual dysphoric disorder, or PMDD. PMDD is a sometimes disabling extension of premenstrual syndrome. Underlying depression and anxiety are common in both PMS and PMDD, so it's possible that the hormonal changes that trigger a menstrual period worsen the symptoms of existing mood disorders. Many women with PMDD meet criteria for major depressive disorders or seasonal affective disorder, and some have panic attacks or other symptoms of anxiety. The condition has a physiological basis, even though it may include psychiatric symptoms or coexist with other psychiatric disorders. In PMDD, at least one of these emotional and behavioral symptoms stands out: • Extreme sadness or hopelessness • Extreme anxiety, tension or panic attacks • Extreme moodiness • Marked irritability or anger, possibly leading to violent outbursts

AETIOLOGY The pathogenesis of PMS is still uncertain. Suggestions include disruptions in hormones like progesterone and neurotransmitters such as serotonin, gamma aminobutaric acid, and of course the stress hormone cortisol. Other proposed causes are pyridoxine deficiency, excess prostaglandins production and increased Aldosterone production in the luteal phase. In terms of lifestyle, being sedentary, consuming large amounts of caffeine, sugar and

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alcohol, and poor stress management are some of the suggested contributing factors of PMS. Although PMS is now recognized as a legitimate, cyclical set of physical, psychological and behavioral symptoms that begin two to 14 days before menstruation and end when the menstrual flow begins, part of the confusion surrounding it is due to the vast number of symptoms reported. In an attempt to bring some order to the clinically and metabolically confusing picture of PMS, Guy Abraham, M.D., has divided PMS into four distinct subgroups according to specific symptoms and hormonal patterns. The following can help determine which group your client falls into, and hence what sort of treatment can be offered to her in the spa.

PMS

type - A

Causes: low progesterone levels

anxiety

Symptoms of nervous tension, anxiety, mood swings and irritability are characteristic of this group. Biochemically, this group shows a high estrogen to progesterone ratio in the luteal phase.

type - C

cravings

Causes: low blood sugar and low prostaglandins This group shows increased appetite, sweet cravings, headaches, fatigue, fainting and heart pounding.

SPA

PMS? SPAS CAN DO THE TRICK

AROMATHERAPY/ ESSENTIAL OILS FOR PMS TREATMENT STRATEGY In using essential oils for treatment, remember that all essential oils are not created equal. Ensure that you use the highest quality oils in order to achieve the desired results. Make sure your client understands that these essential oils should not be ingested under any circumstances. Addressing Physical Symptoms There are many effective ways to use essential oils for premenstrual syndrome, including both general and targeted solutions. Consider these two uses for general symptoms of PMS:

1 PMS

type -D

depression

Causes: low estrogen levels Depression, crying, forgetfulness, confusion and insomnia characterize this group.

type -H

hyperhydration

Causes: excess sodium

Fluid retention, weight gain, swelling of extremities, breast tenderness and abdominal bloating characterize this group.

Prepare a hot aromatherapy bath using five to seven drops of essential oil. Place the oils in either a cup of full- fat milk or mix them with Epsom salts before adding them to the water to ensure they are not floating on top. Using this method, women can benefit from the inhalation of the oils to help with some of the emotional symptoms in addition to the physical ones. The heat of the bath can soothe the cramping, as well as joint and muscle pain associated with PMS. The preferred and most effective option is to mix 20-25 drops of essential oil into 4 ounces of a base or carrier oil, such as a cold-pressed vegetable oil made from seeds, nuts or kernels of a plant (i.e. jojoba, sweet almond or apricot kernel oil). This can be applied to the body as needed throughout the day. Alternatively, the oils can be stirred into an unscented lotion and applied as a daily moisturizer. A compress can easily be used for the abdomen, lower back, or other areas of cramping by soaking a warm cloth in the essential oil mixture and applying it to the affected area.

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SPA

PMS? SPAS CAN DO THE TRICK

For targeted solutions to specific symptoms, consider the following remedies. These blends and applications can be implemented into spa treatments or recommended to clients for home care between sessions. • Headaches: The classic blend for headaches and migraines is a mix of lavender (antispasmodic), peppermint (analgesic and anaesthetic) and eucalyptus (antispasmodic and anti-neuralgic). Apply 2 drops of the essential oil blend in the form of a massage oil to the temples and back of the neck. For migraines, apply 6 drops over the liver area. Alternatively, make a warm or cold compress by soaking a warm cloth and adding 2 drops of the essential oil mixture and applying it to the affected area. • Balancing hormones: The hormonal imbalances that accompany premen-

strual syndrome can be addressed with a number of essential oils. Clary sage, sweet fennel, geranium and rose all influence the production of hormones. Add evening primrose oil to the massage blend and apply 6-8 drops to the torso at least three times daily. • Menstrual cramps: Oils that are antispasmodic, emmenagogues and analgesics are necessary to address cramping. Cypress, clary sage, Roman chamomile lavender and peppermint in a massage blend work well. Apply 6 drops to the lower abdominal area and also the lower back if necessary.

• Insomnia: Lavender, Roman chamomile, sweet orange, mandarin, petitgrain, bergamot and valerian root are good options. These oils can be diffused, added to a bath or applied in an oil or cream to the body. To use in a bath, place 8 drops total of the combined essential oils, mix them into Epsom salts and then add to the bath. A relaxing massage is a definite treatment must for this symptom.

• Fatigue: A combination of citrus oils such lemon, orange or grapefruit with essential oils of rosemary, geranium and basil can energize and rejuvenate feelings of fatigue. When diffusing the blend, no carrier oils are required. Put 4 drops of essential oil directly into

• Fluid retention, breast tenderness, bloating: Rosemary, lavender, sage, black pepper, juniper and marjoram create a powerful combination of oils to treat PMS-H. Following the massage oil guidelines above, make the blend and apply 6-8 drops frequently to

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SPA

PMS? SPAS CAN DO THE TRICK

REFERENCES the affected areas after showering or bathing. For breast tenderness, apply the oil on the side of the breast and work toward the armpit. In the spa, a lymphatic drainage treatment of the whole body is recommended, followed by regular home use of the recommended blend. â&#x20AC;˘ Forgetfulness and confusion: A blend of basil, lime, peppermint and rosemary diffused into a room is an excellent way to sharpen focus and memory, a great idea for the spa therapist in the treatment room. Simply place 4 drops in your diffusing unit and enjoy. When caught short, simply place the drops on a tissue and inhale as frequently as needed. For further trainings in aromatherapy contact your National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy. They offer certified and approved training at various levels. ď&#x201A;Ą

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Pearlstein, T., & Steiner, M. (2008). Premenstrual dysphoric disorder: Burden of illness and treatment update. Foc Focus, 10(1), 90-101. doi:10.1176/appi. focus.10.1.90 Whelan, A. M., Jurgens, T. M., & Naylor, H. (2009). Herbs, vitamins, and minerals in the treatment of premenstrual syndrome: A systematic review. Canadian Journal of Clinical Pharmacology, 16(3), 430-431. Thielen, J. M. (2009). The active female: Health issues throughout the lifespan. Mayo Clinic Proceedings, 84(5), 484. doi:10.4065/84.5.484-c Battaglia, S. (1974). The complete guide to aromatherapy. Napoli. Trish Green, a CIDESCO Diplomat, has been a teacher for 30 years. She is a doctor of homeopathy, an instructor of aromatherapy and a registered Bach flower practitioner. Green is owner of the Balnea Institute in Ontario, an educational facility dedicated to holistic esthetics and complementary therapies.

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soothing solution

The Post Waxing Lotion from BiON Research prevents the development of inflammation and ingrown hairs by weakening hair follicles and exfoliating the skin. It can be used after waxing, and also treats and prevents razor bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae) that develop after shaving.

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SUMMER SHAPE UP!

The AROMA Svelt from Decléor USA is a twostep slimming and firming body shaping program that refines, drains toxins and tones skin for an overall smoother appearance and more sculpted silhouette. The enveloping textures promote a “spa-athome” treatment for instant and lasting results.

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

SPANews

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The Daily Therapy Scrub from Dahliana is a gentle, organic and creamy scrub with all natural beads, the perfect hydrating exfoliant for everyday use. Organic coconut oil leaves the skin soft and glowing after a single use. It works well for every skin type including the most sensitive. With luscious hints of dreamsicle, vanilla and coconut, the scrub is a highly addictive and deeply nourishing way to deliver a flawless complexion daily.

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essentially economical

Film Wax from Brazilian Blue stays pliable without getting brittle even on the edges. It applies thin, dries fast and still creates a strong but flexible layer in which the hairs are fixed. For this reason the treatment is more efficient with less product, making it very economical. The wax does not get stringy or break during application, stays flexible throughout the treatment, and is suitable for all sensitive areas such as bikini, underarm, and face.

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

STER BY I G

T 19 S U AUG E

A N D S AV

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70 45 $

2 DAY ADMISSION

1 DAY ADMISSION

SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER BY AUGUST 19 2 Day admission is $90 after August 19 1 Day admission is $55 after August 19

WAYS TO REGISTER:

PHONE:

1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322

ONLINE:

LNEONLINE.com

EMAIL:

Registration@LNEONLINE.com

FAX:

1.305.443.1664

MAIL:

Aesthetic Congress Communications 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd Coral Gables, FL 33134

SHOW HOURS:

Long Beach, CA September 11 & 12 â&#x20AC;¢ 2016 Long Beach Convention Center 300 E Ocean Blvd. Long Beach, CA 90802

30 Years of Skin Care & Spa Expertise Your Source to Breathe New Life Into Your Business MAIN STAGE LECTURES & DEMOS MINDFUL BIZ CONFERENCE SOCIAL MEDIA CONFERENCE REVENUE GROWTH CONFERENCE WELLNESS CONFERENCE

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 11: 9:30 AM to 6:00 PM MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 12: 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM

MAKE YOUR HOTEL RESERVATION Discounted congress hotel rates sell out quickly! Limited discounted space available. Visit LNEONLINE.com Sponsored by

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This year’s conference word is REFRESH! All year long, we have been working to customize a program that is dedicated to helping you refresh your mind, body, thoughts, habits and perspective – so that you can breathe new life into your business. Let’s work smarter…not harder!

STAY Current. BE Inspired. JOIN me in beautiful Long Beach!

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- CONGRESS HOST

MAIN STAGE LECTURES & DEMOS Located in the exhibit hall

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INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

CONFERENCES

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INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

PRODUCT FOCUSED TRAINING

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EXHIBITOR LIST 7E Myolift ABI Skin Care Advanced Mineral Makeup Agera Laboratories, Inc. AIA - Aesthetics International Association Alera Skincare Alex Cosmetic Alexander’s Aesthetics, Inc. Allegra M. France Altair Instruments AMA - Meditime Amarte Skin Care Anesi Anti Age Technologies, LLC Appearus Products Corp. Arbor Natural Products, Inc. Azten distributed by California Skin Care Supply B&B - Belleza and Beauty Banzai Living Beauty Beaming White Teeth Whitening Beaute Tsuru Beauties City Supplies, Inc. Beauty Attica, Inc. Beauty Image Beauty4pros Bella Schneider Beauty Bellaire Bio France Lab Bio Jouvance Paris, Inc. Biodroga distributed by Euro Pacific, Inc. BiON Research Skin Care Products Bionyx Skincare Biopelle, Inc. Biotone Professional Massage and Spa Products blinc, Inc. Bonblissity Brazilian Blue Cailyn Cosmetics California Skincare Supply Carefree Natural Casmara at Valeria Spa Celluma Chella Brow Bar Cherry Blooms distributed by Aesthetic Ambassadors Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Cirepil Wax distributed by Alexander’s Aesthetics, Inc. Classic Spa Collection ClearFx Skin Clinical Resolution Lab, Inc. Cliona Eternal Beauty Light Therapy CMS of Holland Collagen MD distributed by California Skin Care Control Corrective Skincare Coquette Chronicles Crown Brush Company Depilève DermaKinetics Facial Fusion Therapy Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills, Inc. Dermascope Magazine DermaSpa Distributors Dermatude Derme & Co Diamond Way Ayurveda DNA Corporation DPC International, Inc. Dr. Grandel distributed by Euro Pacific, Inc. Dr. Schrammek distributed by Euro Pacific, Inc. Dr. Jeff Skin Care eglobal Beauté, Inc. Elixheal Italia Elixheal Skincare EMI Cosmetics Éminence Organic Skin Care 46

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INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION AS OF JULY 2016

Envy Medical Epillyss Wax distributed by California Skin Care Supply EquiPro USA, Inc. Essenavita Esthemax, LLC être belle Euro Pacific, Inc. Euro Spa Aromatics Evalash Beauty Eve Taylor North America Falcon International Group, Inc. Faniblu finipil® Fountain of Youth Organic and Vegan Skincare G.M. Collin Skin Care, Inc. Gold Cosmetics and Skin Care Grande Lash - MD Grande Naturals Grounded Beauty Hairaway Hale Cosmeceuticals Hansderma, Inc. Health and Beauty Connection herbs2peel HighChi Energy Jewelry Hollywood Face Towels,Wraps, and Beyond Holocuren Miracle Products Hotshotz Huini USA Beauty, LLC HydraFacial MD® - Edge Systems HydroPeptide iLash Max ilike Organic Skincare from Szep Elet Image Derm, Inc. Image Skincare Infinity Sun Infra-Slim Body Contouring InSPAration Management Instantly Ageless Janssen Cosmetics JMT Group Kera Cell Kosmet, Inc. KP Beauty Products K.T.B Professional Makeup Kriphora, Inc. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics Lashbomb LAshX by Makeup Mandy Le Mieux Cosmetics Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine Life Care LightStim® Lightwave LED Lipo Light North America Lôngmi Lashes by Daniel Lucrece Physicians’ Aesthetic Supply Lycon Wax distributed by Alexander’s Aesthetics, Inc. M’Lis Company M.A.D Skincare distributed by California Skin Care Supply Mancine Cosmetics - Summer Tan Manufacturing Beauty® Magazine Service Outlet Martinni® Beauty, Inc. Melanie Mills Hollywood Mena Cosmetics Mesopen Methode Brigitte Kettner Methode Physiodermie Mineral Air Airbrush by Ya-Man

Minkys - Extend your Lashes Modern Basic Distributors Morphe Brushes Natural Selection Bath and Body Nature Pure Labs Nelly De Vuyst Niko Cosmetics Nouveau Contour USA NuAge Beauty Nufree® Organiko Labs Organic Permanent Makeup Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare Otto Trading, Inc. Patchology PCA Skincare PFB Vanish, Inc. PhotoMedex Phyris distributed by Euro Pacific, Inc. Pinnacle Cosmetics Platinum Equipment Poise Makeup Professional Post Quam PurErb™Skin Care Pure Minerals QL Beauty, Inc. RapidLash® ReFa USA Rejuvasea Skincare Relax and Wax Rena Levi Skin Care Rêpechage RevítaLash Rose Micro Solutions Ruby Studios Saian Natural Clinical Skincare Sakura Silk, Inc. Salonwear Satin Smooth Shira SilcSkin Skin Accents, Inc. Skin Act Skin Elegance International Skin for Life Skin Script Skin Care Skin-Apeel Co. Slim Spa the Body Specialists Smooth Skin Supply, LLC SofTap, Inc. Spa and Aesthetics MD Spa Equipment Direct Spa Manufacturer Direct Spa Source Pro Spaware Software SPF Addict TAMA Research Corporation Terpening Insurance Agency Thalac Cosmetics The BFF Miracle Body Buffer The Med-Stone The Unique Edge ThermoClear Tizo® by Fallene ToGoSpa Top Spa Equipment Vita Juwel® USA Vital Assist Skincare Vitamix Viviscal Professional Volcanic Origins/Aromatherapy VP Beauty Trading, LLC Xtetic ZAQ Zocular

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BEHIND THE SPA DOOR William Wesley Myers Director of Spa at Chuan Spa Chicago

What is the concept of Chuan Spa? Chuan Spa balances an eye on the future of the luxury hotel market with the traditions of Chinese medicine. The luxury spa market is highly competitive; huge differentiators alongside goals and intents have evolved within the last two years. The industry has become more experiential â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the focus is now on pampering and becoming a genuine brand.

How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there? Chuan Spa consists of six treatment rooms (three couples, three single) with additional singular amenities including an inner spa lounge, oriental steam room, Himalayan salt stone sauna, heated relaxation recliners and aromatherapy showers. The dream room is a standout with pods that provide light as well as music; a starry night sky completes the curated ambiance of tranquility.

How many employees do you have and what are their specialties? We have 40 employees. Team members include a concierge team that oversees experiences. We have a fleet of health and spa attendants alongside six estheticians, 15 massage therapists, personal trainers and nutritionists. Our leadership team is dual or triple licensed. We have a full-time, in-house Master of Acupuncture who trains and educates the other team members.

What are your biggest challenges as a spa visionary who must balance the daily activities of the spa with the creativity of future projects? The biggest challenge is patience to accept that things might take longer, as the team must understand the vision as well as the nuances. One way to accomplish this is through trust and empowering others, and understanding that the professional and personal might blur. There is a time delay with implementation, so accept that things might take longer.

What is your biggest reward? Connecting from the heart with employees and guests. Seeing a positive impact as a spa and brand is also rewarding.

How do you manage the stress that work brings into your life? I love being in nature with gardening. Cooking is also relaxing. Both of these activities require creativity and focus. I also do an electronic disconnect. If I am super stressed, I take a walk by the Chicago River. 50

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Incentives & goals for your staff? The most important step is to identify a need and then generate a clear description. Next is to attract qualified candidates by involving human resources. The final step is an interview with the Assistant Director or Master of Acupuncture to discuss whether the candidate’s personal vision syncs up and resonates with Chuan’s.

How do you evaluate employees, and what makes an employee stand out as a star? All our employees are stars. They are open to the praise and feedback guests provide. To evaluate, we have a probation period and an annual review on their performance. We are involved in their overall experience. We check in with their commitment and what they bring to the brand.

to maintain a 15 percent retail to service ratio in addition to shopping sales not directly related to a service.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals? Chuan Spa values teamwork, which reflects the Eastern philosophy that the whole strengthens the individual. Staff works toward these goals as a team. We give daily updates on goals. The idea is for teams to share strengths.

Where is the retail area and what is its surface area compared to the rest of the spa?

personalized. We get to know them this way and build great memories for them.

Retail is by the waiting area in reception where guests fill out a questionnaire to customize their treatments. Our retail area is 850 square feet out of 22,000 total.

What are the most important lessons you have learned that you can share with others on your career path?

How do you train the staff?

What can you tell us about your marketing We have an opening team. techniques? Staff is trained for six weeks in signature modalities and brand philosophies. They are also trained in services by categories, then they experience them. We implement brand standards and training protocols. New staff is given mock trial dates to ensure they are ready for service. We emphasize the value of connecting with guests while promoting our philosophies.

What are your retail goals?

We focus on broad e-commerce and various media channels. We work closely with the press to give them exactly what they need. We also work with social influencers such as bloggers with solid reputations, and we thoroughly vet based on factors such as audience reach and their measurable social influence. It is also crucial that the outlet or blog resonates in a similar tone and values as our brand.

How do you keep A hotel setting is not as de- clients loyal?

Have honesty and integrity in all that you do both personally and professionally. Consistently hold yourself to the highest standards, and lead by example. Be genuine to who you are and allow that to flow through the way you conduct business internally and externally. Don’t allow yourself to get lost or overwhelmed. Seek to find personal balance to genuinely live the vision and values of our great industry; through renewing oneself, inspiration is found to forge ahead professionally.

What is the most popular treatment?

Chuan Harmony Massage pendent on retail sales as a We have them fill out a de- comprises 70 percent of our stand-alone spa. We are more tailed questionnaire when visits. It incorporates tradifocused on an amazing expe- they first come in and there- tional Chinese medicine’s serience. One goal, however, is fore their treatments are truly quence that combines flow

ing relaxation movements and therapeutic acupressure techniques.

What piece of wisdom would you like to impart to fellow spa experts? Pay it forward. Inspire and motivate, personally and professionally, internally and externally. Revenue is generated and grown through inspiration. This passion applies to everyone across the board, from management to employees to your clients. When your business operates in a team-driven environment, its members are motivated and empowered to excel, and something magical happens. As everyone bands together and begins to thrive, a domino effect is created where the best possible results are achieved for your business. This excitement and sense of connection then spreads to your clients, making your products and services irresistible. You will feel personally fulfilled in making an impact on our spa industry and building a better world every day. 

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AUGUST 2016

The

Path to Setting Your Goals and Getting Ahead by David Suzuki

HOW DO YOU DEFINE SUCCESS? The word success, or to be successful,

is a very broad term with an infinite number of different definitions. The simplest way to begin to define your unique business definition of success is to write down as many attributes as you can think of that represent success to you and your team. For example:

• A THRIVING CLIENTELE • FINANCIAL GROWTH • FORWARD THINKING

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ASSOCIATED MEASURABILITY After defining success, you must associate measurability factors to each attribute. It might look something like this:

A THRIVING CLIENTELE - You currently have 250 clients in your database. - Of the 250, 30 are “loyalists,” defined as those who spend $2,500 or more with you per year. - Your goal this year is to increase your database by 100 clients to a total of 350, and increase your loyalists to 40.

FINANCIAL GROWTH - Last year your gross sales were $500,000. - This year you would like to increase your gross sales by 15 percent ($575,000). - By achieving your goal of adding 10 loyalists, you can estimate an additional $25,000 in revenue. -Last year your service to retail ratio was 90:10, which means that for every $1,000 of gross sales, $900 was service and $100 was retail. Retail represented $50,000 of your total sales last year. This year you believe you can increase your ratios to 80/20 while continuing to increase your total service dollars. This would at minimum double your retail sales, giving you an additional $50,000 in revenue.

FORWARD THINKING - This year you will bring two new skin care technologies into your practice to offer your clientele. You will work with suppliers that offer

top-notch education to ensure your knowledge is pristine and your results are efficacious. You will include certificates that can be proudly displayed. - This year you will bring between four and six new “splash” products into your retail lineup. The products must be scientifically sound, capable of being marketed as stand-alone items (without the need to carry an entire line), and unique both in concept and packaging.

BRIDG ES Now that you have set benchmarks of measurability, you need to establish the bridge to lead you from where you are now to your final objectives. These serve as your action items:

A THRIVING CLIENTELE - Recognize and champion your loyalists. They are your best form of advertisement. Give them the extra service and attention that ensures the most amazing results possible. Make their skin a daily conversation piece that equates to word of mouth. - Create incentives for your loyalists to connect you with new like kind clients. Generally, loyalists do not like formal complex systems. As you only have 30 of them, you should be able to offer them a free service or product here and there as a token of your appreciation for referring a new client. This $100 investment may turn into a $2,500 loyalist annually. Well worth the value! - Personally survey (interview style) each one of your loyalists to see what it is about you and your business that they appreciate most. Send them home with a free product for their time and as a token of appreciation. Analyze and discuss the findings with your team, and do more of whatever has attracted your loyalists.

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BUSINESS

THE PATH TO SUCCESS

FINANCIAL GROWTH

FORWARD THINKING

- From your loyalist statistics, identify other groups who may share the same values. These groups can be a like kind clientele from another local business who may be interested in collaborating on a joint advertisement or email blast campaign, mothers of the local little league that your son plays in, members of the same gym or yoga studio, etc.

- Identify technology partners who share in your core values of well - researched and designed products and technology that is scientifically proven and produces extraordinary results. These partners should believe in perpetual ongoing education to ensure mastery of the technology and science supporting the technology.

- Offer monthly specials focused on your new technology and products that are advertised in the waiting area, by email blast, social media and on your website. - Identify up and coming loyalists (those who did not quite make the cut, but show promise with their regularity). Pay special attention to this group, as your 10 new loyalists may already be existing clients!

Enter the

- Bring this leadership and new science to your clients by offering the services and products, educational videos and brochures in the waiting area, through your newsletters, email blasts and social media. - Let your clients know about the classes you have attended and plan to attend, how excited you are about the evolution of your business, and that you think it is amazing to be able to offer this new service/product to them. Your passion and excitement will be contagious!

PERPETUAL SURVEILLANCE A good friend once told me that being successful is not about being amazing, it is about being consistent. Ambitious, well-organized businesses should have no problem defining their attributes of success, identifying measurability, and creating bridges that allow them to reach their objectives — at least in theory. Possibly the most challenging part of growing a business and meeting new objectives is consistency, follow through and surveillance of the plan. You must ensure that what is written is being realized if you truly intend to succeed in your objectives.

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The measurability that was established can be amortized by quarter, month, week and day in most cases. Creating specific reports and processes that measure the information that’s relative to your objectives is your surveillance to ensure that you stay on course. This information should be shared and discussed with your team, posted in areas that you frequent, etc., making sure that every moment of every day you and your team are cognizant of your definition of success, its attributes, the measurements, and exactly what you need to do to realize success. This kind of perpetual information allows you to make necessary model shifts in real time that continue to improve your efforts and expedite your success. Most importantly, remember that the plan should be kept simple to ensure that it is manageable. It’s easy to be overly ambitious on paper, yet incredibly challenging to carry out even the simplest plan with 100 percent consistency. Never forget that only YOU can define your own success.  David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com.

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56 | AUGUST 2016 | LNeonline.com photo credit: Alexey Boldin/Shutterstock.com

Innovate a with YouTube

Channel

Easy Steps to Boost Your Skin Care Practice with Engagement and High Quality Video Content

by Louis Silberman

hink YouTube is just a fad? You know, like Psy’s Gangnam Style? Think again! YouTube’s global video-sharing website provides instant access to information and entertainment in a way that other media channels simply can’t. Whether we love it because we’re so visually driven, or just because we’re wired to respond to the human voice, we simply can’t get enough of these visually engaging videos.

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AUGUST 2016

BUSINESS

INNOVATE WITH A YOUTUBE CHANNEL

YouTube and Search Engine Optimization (SEO)

fact, you may not realize just how much you’re missing out on by not using a YouTube channel to market your business. Consider these staggering statistics: • There are roughly 4 billion YouTube video views per day. • Approximately 500 hours of video are uploaded to YouTube every minute. • Daily YouTube viewers have increased by 40 percent just since March 2014. • YouTube overall (including through mobile devices) reaches more 18-34 and 18-49 year-olds than any U.S. cable network. • In 2016, mobile views of online video will reach an estimated 50.2 versus 49.8 percent on desktops.

YouTube is a free platform that allows you to easily create/upload your own videos to a personal channel that showcases only YOU. Think of it like your own cable TV channel! A YouTube channel leads to a more successful SEO in several different ways. First, you can provide a link to your channel on your website. This boosts the odds of visitors staying on your website longer, which can help your site rank higher than your competition. Second, a channel helps viewers find your videos via Google search (Google owns YouTube), making it even easier for them to find your business. Finally, because every uploaded video can be easily tagged and categorized, your name is more likely to appear when keywords relating to your business are searched organically.

INNOVATIVE SKINCARE DEVICES Methode

Brigitte

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state-of-the-art

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DEVICES!

Clarifying Brush - This brush has a rotating motion that helps reduce pore size by up to 75%. Along with a battery that can last up to 100 cycles, its perfect for professional or personal use. Eye Rejuvenator - Awaken tired eyes, reduce puffiness, and eliminate dark under-eye circles with safe, relaxing, quick & easy micro-current treatments. Microdermabrasion - A gentle, yet effective, hand-held, portable exfoliating device that removes dead skin cells and

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impurities,

www.mbkskincare.com laura.porter@telefieldna.com

BUSINESS

INNOVATE WITH A YOUTUBE CHANNEL

Next, determine your target audience. Do you intend to reach out to spa devotees seeking the cutting-edge technology that you offer? Or are you hoping to win over a younger crowd that is more likely to engage with your content? Think about what makes your business unique, and incorporate that into your viewer demographic.

It’s All About Engagement

Building a YouTube Channel Recording and uploading a YouTube video is just as easy as generating the YouTube channel itself. Google Support (support.google.com) offers a free step-by-step guide to creating and managing your videos. The guide covers everything from uploading and editing your content to analyzing and optimizing your channel. Follow these steps to create a YouTube channel for your business: 1. On a computer or in a mobile browser, sign into YouTube. 2. Go to All my channels. 3. If you want to make a YouTube channel for a Google+ page that you manage, choose this link. Otherwise, choose create a new channel to set up a channel with a name different from your Google account name. 4. Fill out the details to create your new channel. The first thing to consider is the overall goal of your channel. If you are creating your channel for marketing purposes, how will your videos help you accomplish that? Will they educate your viewers about your industry? Will they focus on certain procedures and feature before and after photos? Or maybe you want to offer an exciting new outlook on how your business can motivate buyers, without relying on hard sales tactics.

There’s no denying that people subscribing to your channel is a good sign, but in terms of overall success and exposure, your audience needs to also engage with your videos. You must produce content that makes viewers not only “like” and comment on it, but watch it for as long as possible. YouTube Analytics is another free service that can help you figure out where your videos are most successful, and where they may be sinking. For example, if people stick with your video for the first 15 seconds, then click away, they may miss your main message and contact information. There are plenty of services that can help you track your YouTube channel results for a fee, but you can also start with free services and see how you can grow from there.

Tips for Successful Content Once you have figured out the main goal and audience for your channel, get down to business with your smart device. If your budget allows, you may hire a professional to do the filming for you, but simply pulling out your smart phone and being your own director may take you further than you think. There are several free video-editing apps that can be downloaded directly to your smartphone to ensure you are creating and posting the best content to represent your business.

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AUGUST 2016

BUSINESS

INNOVATE WITH A YOUTUBE CHANNEL

videos, always prominently display your logo, website and contact information. Include a sentence such as, “Check out our website and be sure to subscribe to our channel!” Viewers must always know how, when and where they can find you.

Some Final Thoughts…

IT’S ALL ABOUT CONTENT. The more attractive and intriguing your message is, the better chance you have of achieving maximum engagement. A YouTube channel is about building intrigue, like chapters in a book — one leading to the next, keeping the reader hooked by ending with a sneak peak at what’s going to happen next. For example, you can end an episode with a teaser like, “Thanks for watching this video on the secret to taking 10 years off your face — next week, I’ll show you how to set a fuller-looking lip!” Release new content regularly with new topics as promised. SEO experts suggest releasing one video a week, on the same day each week. Consistent new content improves SEO algorithms, which lead to better search rankings. Keep your audience coming back for more, with the confidence that there will always be new content for them to view. Mix up content by occasionally creating videos from a different

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perspective. One video could explain the creative process behind what you normally produce, or something humorous, with a title such as “Why Skin Care is Better than a Boyfriend”. Also consider reacting to trending topics that can relate to your audience. Even if your content is highly technical, avoid videos that look like PowerPoint presentations. Instead, combine a talking head with slides and illustrations to help keep your audience engaged. Viewers tend to gravitate toward videos with people (or kittens), movement and sound, because they are much more intriguing. Finally, be sure to integrate your YouTube channel into the rest of your marketing platforms and cross reference/promote content across the board. Create a separate page on your website for your YouTube channel. It may have a title such as, “Be sure to check out our YouTube channel for tons of great skin care tips!” In your YouTube

Building a successful YouTube channel takes time, so be patient. It’s better to build a loyal audience than to chase page views or produce content with the sole intention of going viral. It’s great to go viral, but you don’t want to do it at the expense of your viewers. Track your results at least monthly. If you’re losing viewers or getting negative comments (or no comments), take a careful look at your content and resolve to make changes to better entice your audience. Posting videos on your YouTube channel is just the beginning — don’t simply post them and forget about them. Check back regularly on the views and comments your videos are receiving and respond to them in a positive, professional way. Don’t take it personally if someone responds negatively. Instead, see such comments as an opportunity to improve your business (and content) by really listening to them. Good luck — and have fun along the way!  Louis Silberman is president and founder of National Laser Institute, the largest cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center in North America. He is an expert in medical esthetics, medical spa owner, nationally recognized author, marketing speaker and business consultant. Silberman created the sixth most visited pharmacy website with 500,000 visitors per month, and was a semifinalist for the Ernst and Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014. He can be contacted at 800.982.6817 or louis@nlionline.com.

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The

Power Of by Kristina Mazzenga If you are a social media newbie, hashtags — those short phrases guided by the pound sign (#) – may seem confusing and unnecessary. You may not know, however, that they are absolutely essential to the way we are communicating on social media, and it is important to know how to use them.

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Photography by Denys Prykhodov

The Dos and Don’ts of Using #Hashtags on Instagram

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AUGUST 2016

BUSINESS

THE POWER OF #HASHTAGS

ashtags are used to accompany images shared on Instagram to put them into a specific category of interest. They are a vital key to help you discover new accounts for your business as well as to help others find you. Hashtags help organize and categorize images and video content, which aids the process of content discovery and optimization. Identifying popular hashtags in your industry (and using them correctly) is undoubtedly beneficial to gaining visibility among your target audience. Understanding the right way to use hashtags can take some time and research, but utilizing the most relevant and widely used tags will acquire the best results for your business or brand. Check out the following dos and don’ts of hashtags and stay tuned as I keep you updated on the most groundbreaking tips for Instagram. Email questions to kristina@LNEonline.com. I will be answering them LIVE bi-weekly on Periscope! (@LNEonline)

Hashtag Dos

1. Research and pay attention to the way hashtags are used on popular Instagram profiles in your industry. You may even discover a few popular tags you hadn’t thought of on your own!

2. Participate in the use of hashtags specifically to spread your message to a broader audience. Be sure to use them sparingly on your photos — nobody wants to see a caption packed with too many hashtags! Prioritizing the order of the hashtags you post is also important for keeping your viewers interested — more relevant and creative tags should follow the caption immediately.

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5. Create hashtags that are brief, catchy and easily understood. For example, #MaleSpaBlunders #SkinCareZone and #FannyFacial are all tags that are short, memorable and appropriate.

3. Engage via hashtags. Visit profiles of others who are using the same hashtags, and "like" or comment on their posts. Search for others in your industry who are using the same tags and follow them. Engaging with other users' profiles shows that your account is approachable, which will entice them to follow you back.

Be cautious when creating new hashtags for your business or brand. Start by monitoring how others may already be using the tags and ensure that individuals or competitors are not using them inappropriately. New hashtags can be creative and fun, but remember to be clever without using tags that are too long or unrelated.

6. Check out websites that track which hashtags are currently trending. Post Planner, ShortStack and Twelve Skip are all examples of such online tools. Use these resources to see which hashtags would work better for your specific industry and brand focus.

7. Share the love. The best way to tap into the already booming Instagram community is by interacting with your target audience through @mentions in a friendly and authentic way.

8. Be specific. Choosing precise tags will help you connect with other likeminded users on Instagram. Relevant tags help you appeal to new followers with a genuine interest in your photos

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BUSINESS

THE POWER OF #HASHTAGS

and your profile. This will inevitably lead to those users continuing to "like" and comment on your photos over time. For example, #GettingCheeky was a tag used to promote the 2016 LNE & Spa summer guide for getting bikini ready!

some of the top trending hashtags on Instagram, several users are posting content to those tags by the minute, which could cause your post get buried in the mix and have a shorter life span.

6. Do not use spaces! Hashtags group Hashtag Don’ts

1. Avoid using hashtags that are trending for the wrong reason. Exploiting negative tags on your business’ page will not do your brand any good.

7. Avoid using abbreviations or acro-

Do not use hashtags that are not useful for your marketing purposes. Define your objectives for your business or brand and stick to them. (For more info on how to define your Instagram marketing objectives, peep my online article "Innovate With Instagram" @ LNEonline.com).

3. Do not create hashtags that could have any possibility of negative interpretation. Clicking on a certain hashtag will bring you to a category of every photo used with that same tag. You do not want your brand in a grouping associated with an unrelated tag.

4. Do not use hashtags with brand names or slogans that do not belong to you with a goal of forwarding their traffic to your profile. This comes across as unprofessional and may place your brand in a bad light.

5. Do not overdo it. Instagram allows up to 30 tags to be associated with every photo posted, but don't take advantage of that. Posting too many hashtags with a photo comes across as cluttered and could leave the impression that you're desperate. Although #love, #beautiful and #style may be

AUGUST 2016

words and phrases in categories as one expression. If a space is added between words, Instagram only categorizes the photo based off the words before the space. For example, #BeautyIndustry is appropriate as opposed to #Beauty Industry.

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nyms that people outside your business may not be familiar with. For example, #LesNouvellesEsthetics is straightforward and easy to recognize, whereas #LNE is an abbreviation that may not be understood by everyone.

Adding hashtags to your photos is an interactive way to find new followers and share your photos with a broader audience. Keep in mind that the right use of hashtags can completely transform your business. To get the most out of them, follow these tips and tricks to maximize your profile’s exposure. ¡

Questions? Send me an email and I will answer you LIVE on Periscope! Kristina Mazzenga Social Media Partner Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa Magazine

kristina@lneonline.com

Kristina Mazzenga received her

bachelor’s

degree

Social Media Marketing and Broadcasting

from

Saint

Vincent College in Latrobe, Penn. Her

8. Don’t forget to respond to likes and comments of those who have used your hashtags. Instagram is all about engagement. Visit the profiles of those who have interacted on your profile and be sure to mention their usernames in your responses to them.

computer and cell phone are attached to her hip as she is obsessed with spreading the word! Mazzenga's passion became her profession. She is now the social media partner for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine.

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Opening new doors in africa

In collaboration with Allure Spa in the City, Repêchage CEO and founder Lydia Sarfati joined Dzigbordi K. Dosoo, CEO and founder of Allure Africa, for the launch of the Repêchage Fusion Express Bar and Spa Masks with Nutriceutical Organic Actives as well as a five-day hands-on workshop at the American Skin and Body Care Academy. “My passion to help other industry professionals inspires me to continue traveling around the world and take part firsthand in our educational programs,” says Sarfati. “In our field, hands-on training and continuous education is paramount to our success, and I want to help provide professionals with the tools to be successful.”

800.248.SKIN (7546) repechage.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

Live stream education!

educators of the year award

Performance Health is pleased to announce the winners of the 2016 AFMTE, Biofreeze and Bon Vital’ Educators of the Year Award. Licensed massage therapist Julie Goodwin B.A., is the recipient in the teacher category and Dale Alexander, Ph.D., M.A., BSEd., is the recipient in the continuing education category. Performance Health partners annually with the Alliance for Massage Therapy Education (AFMTE) to recognize excellence in massage and bodywork education.

AUGUST 2016

800.321.2135 performancehealth.com

excellence honored

The BBB Winner of Distinction prize in the Personal Services and Products category goes to NovaLash! BBB Awards for Excellence continues to recognize businesses and non-profits in the Greater Houston area for their achievements and commitment to overall excellence and quality in the workplace. Sophy Merszei, CEO of NovaLash commented: “We are thrilled to win this prestigious award for the second year in a row. Quality does not just happen. It is the result of thoughtful ongoing concern, sincere effort and skillful execution of a talented team. I am very proud of my team at NovaLash.”

866.430.1261 novalash.com |

800.971.6438 bio-therapeutic.com

The award serves to foster a culture that supports raising the standards of excellence in massage and bodywork education. The recipients are chosen based on their experience, teacher training and how well they meet AFMTE Core Competency Standards.

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Bio-Therapeutic is working with new, forward thinking education software to offer live education online, as well as prerecorded classes. The flexibility allows busy professionals to continue ongoing education as it works for their schedule. This is one of many ways that the company is working hard to bring skin therapists into a level of mastery with their skin care technology!

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AUGUST 2016

Our Scalp: TheHidden Frontier by Andres

AUGUST 2016

Gonzalez

LNeonline.com

SCALP GUIDE

he skin on the scalp is essentially the same skin that covers the rest of the body. However caring for the scalp requires considering a uniquely different set of characteristics. According to recent scientific studies, having a healthy scalp is fundamentally important because the overall health and beauty of the hair depends on it. “Hair is a natural expression of our individual personality. It’s also a symbol of health and sexual vitality,” explains board-certified hair restoration surgeon Alan J. Bauman, M.D., of Boca Raton, Fla. “A proper hairline is important because it frames the face, giving men and women a more youthful and aesthetically pleasing appearance.”

Hair Beauty Starts From Within The key to achieving optimum longterm hair health, growth and beauty is a healthy scalp. Having a healthy scalp requires each and every part of the highly complex system that lives within to be in balance. Consider the fact that the scalp is comprised of hormones, natural protection barriers and various glands throughout, conducting nourishing circulation and toxin elimination. This system is both complicated and delicate. Each of the 150,000 or so hair follicles on the scalp living within this complex system are made up of separate individual glands, hormone receptors, tiny blood vessels, nerves and muscles. The scalp contains more sebaceous glands and sweat glands than other part of the body, whose function is to fight fungus formation and regulate body temperature. Each hair follicle has its own sebaceous gland. Sweat

and sebum or oil combine to create a special film on the scalp that protects it from bacteria, ultraviolet rays and extreme temperatures. Beneath this layer and just a few millimeters under the scalp skin, all the hair follicles continually communicate with each other through a sophisticated hormone system that connects to the brain and different glands in other parts of the body. With this proper understanding of the unique attributes of scalp skin, you can balance and treat your clients’ scalps and optimize the beauty of their hair by using in-spa treatments and providing them with at-home care that has recently become available. “Think about it, we cleanse our face and brush our teeth; why don’t we give the same attention to our scalp?” asks Dr. Cristiano Renna, Ph.D., Head of Trichology at Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories in Bologna, Italy. Thanks to the steadily growing recognition of the scalp’s importance to overall skin and hair health, the spa industry has taken notice and is increasingly addressing the need for scalp care. Read on to discover how new scalp therapies and esthetic services have come to the forefront in complete client skin care and wellness with our Scalp Guide. 

Andres Gonzalez, M.B.A., is the vice president of business development for the Bauman Medical Group in Boca Raton, Fla. He manages Dr. Bauman's Certified HairCoach™ program as well as salonB™—home of the original Scientific Scalp Makeover™ and the CRLab CNC Hair Replacement System. He’s an active participant at international medical conferences and organizations. Gonzalez also leads and manages relationships with key strategic hair industry alliances.

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AUGUST 2016

PRE-SCALP TREATMENT TIP Prior to any scalp treatment, brush your clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair simultaneously with two boar bristle brushes from the back of the neck to the front, then from the sides toward the top of the head. Finish by brushing from the forehead to the nape. This technique relaxes your client and revives the microcirculation of their hair follicles.

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Scalp Skin Care Spa treatments to Cleanse, Exfoliate and Detoxify the Crown by Caroline

Canetti

Everyone knows they're supposed to cleanse, exfoliate, nourish and detoxify their face and body, but the scalp is an area that is often overlooked, even though it is a vital part of the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest organ â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the skin. "We put so many things in our hair like silicon, chemicals in hair dye, keratin and hair spray that clog up the hair follicles. It's important to educate your clients on the importance on cleansing, exfoliating and nourishing their scalp," says Jeannel Astarita, founder and owner of Just Ageless and medical esthetician at Eva Scrivo Salons, both in New York City.

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AUGUST 2016

SCALP GUIDE and rebalance the natural oil production. This is then gently washed by a propolis-based shampoo, an effective natural remedy for scalp conditions derived from the bark of the propolis tree, combined with a floral hair mask to add moisture to the ends of the hair. "We do a lot for our hair and faces, but the scalp really needs a deep cleansing, exfoliating and detoxing as well because those hair follicles can get clogged and when they are clogged they are less productive,” says Astarita. “We need to really clean the follicles to flush out of those chemicals from our products and give those follicles oxygen for a healthier cell turnover."

Stimulating & Purifying

Here's a look at three scalp treatments that cleanse, exfoliate, detoxify, nourish, stimulate and purify the scalp to promote hair growth, and help with conditions like dandruff and itchy scalps.

Cleansing & Nourishing "Who doesn't love a scalp massage?" asks Zach Thomas, spa director at the Island Spa Catalina on Catalina Island off the coast of Southern California. His question, of course, is rhetorical. Thomas says the universal appeal of the spa's Ocean Wave Conditioning Hair & Scalp Treatment (80 minutes, $105) can be chalked up to one thing: pure relaxation. The treatment begins with an uplifting scalp massage with pure essence of laurel leaf, eucalyptus oil and clove bud to deeply condition and restore the scalp and hair. Next comes a cleanser that helps retain moisture and soften the hair. The treatment is finished with a blow dry and style and can also be paired with the Ocean Wave Foot & Leg Rejuvenation (35 minutes, $90) treatment for a complete head-to-toe experience. The treatment is capped 74

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with a salon blowout. Another reason the treatment is so popular? "We use eucalyptus and laurel leaf oil in our products," says Thomas. "And the serum combines a blend of five arctic berry oils that are rich in nutrients for both the hair and scalp. Our cleansing hair wash and softening conditioner are used after the scalp treatment is performed. The combination of coconut oil and vitamin B5 leaves the hair moisturized with a beautiful shine. The scent of eucalyptus and clove allows for a relaxing but also awakening aromatic salon experience."

Detoxifying & Exfoliating Eva Scrivo Salons’ two New York City locations offer hair salon and spa services, including the Botanical Scalp Treatment (20 minutes, $75), which cleanses, detoxifies, exfoliates and conditions using a unique combination of chili, lemon peel, lavender and ylang ylang essential oils. The treatment starts with a thorough brushing of the hair and scalp to loosen dead skin cells, while the oils serve to break down impurities

The Sonoran Scalp and Massage Treatment (20 minutes, $45) at The Spa at Camelback Inn at JW Marriot Camelback Inn Hotel & Spa in Scottsdale, Ariz., combines a deep conditioner with various essential oils to stimulate the scalp and nourish the hair. The hair treatment is then followed by a deeply relaxing shoulder and neck massage. "The essential oils balance the scalp and deter dandruff,” says spa supervisor Christy Waldron. “It harnesses the natural powers of rosemary, sage, cypress, eucalyptus and lemon to instantly purify the scalp and support natural microcirculation, making it both energizing and fortifying." The treatment is recommended for those suffering from an unbalanced scalp whether it is dry, oily, itchy or irritated. "Of course, it can also be enjoyed by those wishing to enjoy a relaxing aroma-therapeutic treatment as well," Waldron adds. Guests are welcome to book a shampoo and style to follow the treatment, but for the most part guests are encouraged to leave the treatment on their hair and scalp as long as they can. "We recommend relaxing in the steam room following the treatment after which the guest can shower," says Waldron. 

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SCALP GUIDE

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AUGUST 2016

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KEY

TYPES OF

Massage SCALP

The roots of health, wellness and beauty by Lynda

Solien-Wolfe

Whether in the shampoo bowl at the salon, on the massage therapy table, or even in the privacy of your own shower, chances are youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve experienced the soothing bliss of a scalp massage. Personally, almost every massage I receive includes work on my face and scalp, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s five or 10 minutes of a full-body session or a separate 60-minute treatment. This attention to my scalp, face and neck eases the strain and headaches I develop thanks to time spent on the phone and computer.

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AUGUST 2016

SCALP GUIDE

calp massage — especially treatments using hot oil — calm the mind, boost blood flow, improve sleep, relieve headaches and serve as a powerful antidote to the stress and anxiety inherent in our modern lives. Including some rituals in the treatment can also rebalance energy and fight inflammation. In addition, there are the effects on appearance. Hair may grow faster, thicker and stronger thanks to hydrated shafts and stimulated hair follicles. Meanwhile, skin looks more supple and smooth. As clients increasingly recognize the benefits of scalp massage for beauty and wellness, they’ve come to expect traditional massages to extend above the neckline — and for therapists to have professional knowledge of the cranial and facial areas. The bottom line is you can’t afford NOT to have scalp massages on your treatment menu. Here’s what you need to consider when getting them there:

Plan Before Getting in Over Your Head Full-body or chair massages can include time spent on the scalp with no additional designation or fee — the client and therapist can simply discuss including the face, scalp or both at the beginning of the session. Scalp massages also serve as a popular add-on to other treatments, including wraps and scrubs. In these cases, you might charge an additional $20 or $25 (possibly more if the treatment includes hot oil). Standalone head treatments, such as Shirodara or Champissage, typically last between 30 and 90 minutes. Most facilities price them according to standard rates for services, with adjustments based on such factors as practitioner training and experience level and the

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amount of oil used. Typically, they run anywhere from $60 to hundreds of dollars per hour. Once you begin offering scalp massages, the question arises — do you need a shower facility? If you use oils in the hair, clients might appreciate a shower or at least a shampoo bowl to rinse off before heading out. But it isn’t absolutely necessary, and you might encourage them to schedule their treatments so they don’t have to rush to clean up. You can even recommend they bring a hat or scarf to cover their head if they’re self-conscious. The longer the oils soak into the hair and skin, the more the beauty and stressrelief benefits add up — especially if you use high-quality oils and match their benefits to the client’s personality and needs.

Professional massage and spa products, and oils that are particularly beneficial for scalp massages include: Coconut oil, which lubricates the hair shaft to preserve proteins otherwise lost to the ravages of heat and styling products. By trapping moisture in the shaft, coconut oil leaves hair softer, silkier and stronger. Grapeseed oil also penetrates and preserves the hair shaft, and its lighter weight won’t drag hair down. The polyphenols it contains act as powerful antioxidants to fight cell damage.

SCALP GUIDE

Jojoba oil contains compounds that resemble the chemical makeup of human sebum — the oils that naturally hydrate skin and hair. The highly efficient, non-greasy film it forms locks in moisture without clogging pores. Sesame oil is rich in protein, vitamins like E and B complex, and such minerals as magnesium, calcium and phosphorus. This powerful combination strengthens hair from the root. Sunflower oil offers heaping doses of linoleic acid, which locks moisture in to promote skin barrier health. The best oil for each treatment requires consideration of the goals of the treatment and also of the client’s individual complaints and preferences. Of course, allergies or sensitivities to oils — especially when heated — can serve as a contraindication to techniques that use them. Clients with bruises or open wounds on the scalp or face or other medical conditions should also be treated with caution.

Effleurage. Many head massages begin with these long strokes and feathering, which deliver a relaxing, tension-reducing treatment. If you’re planning to incorporate hot oil into the treatment, effleurage is an ideal way to apply it. Petrissage. Kneading, raking or lifting motions of the face and scalp free adhesions improve the flow of lymph and provide a stimulating experience that increases concentration and alertness. This technique can also include some gentle hair pulling. Vibration. Another technique that relieves tension through stimulating nerves and muscles, vibration can be done by hand with light strokes that start at the scalp. You can also use either a manual (such as a copper wire head massager or handheld roller) or electronic device to apply gentle vibration. Just make sure externally powered vibrators are set to a very low speed, as the skull has relatively little padding underneath the scalp.

Tapotement. Often incorporated during chair massages, these percussive, tapping or raindrop-like movements can be done with the fingertips or the side of the hand. Like vibration or petrissage, these treatments are more energizing than calming, and can help strengthen sagging skin or muscles under the scalp. Hot oil scalp massages are among the most popular head treatments in spas today. These can incorporate any combination of the strokes described above, using oils chosen for their specific benefits. For an even deeper experience, they may also incorporate additional therapeutic ceremonies and customs.

Bringing Bodywork to the Head When clients ask for attention to the scalp, head and face during a full body or chair massage, therapists typically use professional discretion to determine the best strokes and techniques. Swedish massage techniques that can be tailored for the ultimate head massage include: Friction. Usually the first and most popular strokes involve friction, moving the tissue of the scalp in circular or back-and-forth, cross-fiber directions. These are the same motions used when shampooing the hair.

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SCALP GUIDE

Age- old practices, modern experiences Nearly every culture and tradition offers a healing ritual focused on the head. Increasingly, these therapies have crossed oceans and centuries to appear as stand-alone or add-on treatments at modern Western spas and salons. The most popular are:

Champissage

(Indian Head Massage) This treatment, originally from India (the name means “head massage” in Hindi), modernizes an ancient tradition of family grooming. Relatively vigorous strokes increase circulation to the shoulders, neck, upper back and arms. Meanwhile, the fingertips are used to perform intimate facial massage, ruffling the hair, patting the eyelids or even scratching behind the ears. Champissage can be done with or without oil and frequently incorporates energy work on the upper three chakras, restoring balance, relieving pain and tension, and promoting feelings of peace.

Balinese Scalp Massage A technique that’s increasing in popularity, Balinese scalp massage incorporates elements of Shiatsu and acupressure to soothe the muscles of the shoulders, head and neck — and by extension, the rest of the body. The experience both relaxes and uplifts, promoting balance and harmony.

Tibetan Scalp Massage Performed with the recipient fully clothed in a reclined or seated position, Tibetan scalp massage stimulates acupressure points with detailed, gentle movements. Lengthwise strokes, circular motions and kneading may also be used to release tension and increase healing energy. The slow pace makes this a particularly meditative treatment with benefits that include

better sleep, improved natural healing and a sense of calm.

Shirodhara This Ayurvedic therapy rejuvenates the face and melts worry lines, treats anxiety, depression, migraines and insomnia; and improves focus and concentration. Shiro means “head” and dhara means “flow”, and the treatment stimulates the third eye and crown chakras to awaken your intuition and inner wisdom. It begins lying down with the head tipped back just off the table. Warm oil streams out of a specialized copper vessel over the third eye, directly in the center of the forehead. In Western spas, the experience continues with a hot oil scalp massage. Note: If you’re offering this therapy, stock up with plenty of oil, a copper vessel, a catch to collect the oil afterward and lots of towels. (See our article “Deeper Healing: Shirodhara for Therapeutic Rejuvenation” in the June 2016 edition.) You or your staff may have learned the basics of head massage in your training. These days, formal continuing education courses offer in-depth instruction on specialty treatments like Shirodhara, and e-learning modules help experienced therapists apply the techniques they use on the rest of the body to the head. Adding head and scalp treatments is a smart business move, as they provide the stress relief, balancing and healing your clients crave. 

Lynda Solien-Wolfe, BCTMB, is a licensed massage therapist and esthetician with more than 20 years of experience in the spa industry. She is vice president of massage and spa for Performance Health, manufacturer of Biofreeze®, Bon Vital'®, TheraPearl® and TheraBand®. Solien-Wolfe has owned a day spa since 1994, and is passionate about experiencing spa treatments from all over the world.

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High-Tech

Head Treatments Be at the head of LED light therapy, microcurrents and high frequencies by Carrie

Ann Buckingham

While the idea of scalp treatments dates back 5,000 years to the Ayurvedic Indian head massages, savvy spa owners are now embracing modern technology in their quest to offer clients a complete menu of services for the scalp. Technology such as LED light therapy, micro-current, and high frequency is not just useful in facials, as spas have found that when used on the scalp, it can stimulate hair growth, relieve itchy, dry, flaking skin and help with cellular turnover.

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SCALP GUIDE

LED Light Therapy Kim Laudati, owner of Kim Laudati Skin Care in New York City, has been using LED Light Therapy (20 minutes, $129) for hair growth stimulation since 2008. And it might come as a surprise to many that it's not aging, balding men coming in for treatments, but rather women — from 20-somethings to middle-aged moms — who want fuller, lusher, more youthful hair. "I was surprised to see so many women," says Laudati. "It might be partially because we use so many products on our hair, and so much processing on a daily basis, causes our hair to thin. We all know that heat processing, such as irons and hot rollers takes their toll, but so many women blow out their hair by pointing the dryer directly at their scalp, which is a huge daily no-no!" Low level laser therapy (LLLT) and LED light therapy stimulate the fibroblast cells into creating new collagen and elastin. The treatment introduces energy to the scalp, hair follicles and cells in the form of non-thermal photons of light. Light is transmitted through the skin's layers (from epidermis to dermis to the subcutaneous fatty layer), which the cells then convert into chemical energy to promote healthy rejuvenation of hair. "Many studies have shown that LLLT and LED therapy cause the stimulation of epidermal stem cells in the hair follicle bulge and shift the follicles into the anagen growth phase,” explains Laudati. “It's popular because it's noninvasive, painless, with no downtime, and no pre-treatment prep, medication or serious follow-up regiment required." While highly effective, LED light therapy treatment does require a commitment. For the best results, Laudati

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suggests 24 treatments (at $50 each), two to three times per week (not on consecutive days). At minimum, she recommends a package with 12 treatments (at $75 per treatment), also two to three times per week. "I have had clients see growth after one or two months when they can only come once per week, so don't be discouraged into not agreeing to try this. Just always be clear with your client about what is best and what you can agree to try." Laudati points out that it’s imperative to understand which clients are good candidates for treatment and which ones aren’t. For instance, clients who have been diagnosed with very

serious alopecia or pattern-baldness should not get this treatment. If your potential client hasn't been tested to determine the cause of their hair loss, encourage them to do so prior to starting a series. "This is a lucrative and very satisfying therapy when you and your client are educated on the cause and effect, and the need for a steady, committed treatment plan," she concludes.

SCALP GUIDE

Circulation is increased with the use of a scalp tonic with ginseng.

High-Frequency Skin care educator Tomi Murphey offers a high frequency scalp treatment with serum that is excellent for those with thinning hair, itchy scalp and dandruff. Her Signature Scalp Treatment (25 minutes, $30) includes a fashionable bandana with her logo for clients to wear over their oily hair to keep the treatment lasting beyond the spa. "This treatment combines the benefits of a high frequency comb and an organic fruit acid scalp tonic to promote circulation and stimulate hair growth and cellular renewal,â&#x20AC;? she explains. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It makes for a very healthy scalp and the scalp has to be healthy for healthy hair growth. It helps keep hair growth constant, but the treatments are best done in a series of four to 10, depending on the extent of hair loss and goals of the client." High-frequency treatment works by using low-current high-frequency alternating currents, delivered via a glass electrode. Because the high frequency current converts some of the oxygen in the air into ozone, the treatment has a germicidal action. The creation of O3 (ozone) by the electrode comb kills off bacteria and opens up the follicle so that dead skin cells, hardened sebum and bacteria can be released, providing the benefits of increased lymphatic and blood flow. Consequently, the treatment is used to aid healing, and also to help desquamation (the skin's natural exfoliation), and simulate sweat and sebaceous glands. The violet ray/highfrequency rake used in the treatment combined with the scalp treatment tonic can also slow down the graying process. Additionally, circulation is increased with the use of a scalp tonic with ginseng.

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There is no pain or discomfort from this treatment. In fact, Murphey says that clients report a light tingling sensation when the electrode touches the scalp, creating a very comfortable and soothing vibration. In addition to being relaxing, that tingling and vibration improve the blood circulation and help revitalize the dormant hair follicles. "This, of course, also leads to better hair growth, controls hair loss and helps with dandruff issues as well," Murphey adds.

Micro-needling Eva Scrivo Salons, which has two locations in New York City, has found that the most effective treatment to stimulate hair growth is a combination of Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) used with a micro-needling pen. In the Plasma Hair Rejuvenation treatment (60 minutes, $1,200 with a microneedling pen or $750 without it), PRP blood is drawn and spun out in a centrifuge to separate the plasma, which contains all of the growth factors, proteins and anti-inflammatory and repair properties that exist in the client’s own blood. This is used to stimulate the growth and repair process naturally. Treatments can alternate with or without the pen once every six weeks, and six treatments are recommended for optimal results. "Women are coming in for this not because they are suffering from serious hair loss — they'd go to a hair restoration center for that — but because they see these celebrities with full, long, lush hair but don't want to get hair extensions to achieve that look,” says Jeannel Astarita, founder of New York's Just Ageless and a medical esthetician at Eva Scrivo Salons. “I get brides coming in six months before their wedding so they can look great on their big day." The treatment works best when there is already an existing working hair follicle,

because it strengthens that hair follicle, allows it to produce more hairs and keeps it in the anagen phase, or growth phase, longer. "Our hair naturally thins as we get older, so this is a great age-defying treatment to offer your clients because fuller hair makes you look younger," says Astarita.

Oxygen Therapy While the rejuvenating effects of oxygen therapy on facial skin are well-known, oxygen treatment can also provide unique benefits for skin on the scalp, helping it to breathe by opening the pores down through the different layers, ultimately improving the health of the hair. A key benefit to oxygen therapy on the scalp is the promotion of natural hair growth, which is especially valuable for clients who are just starting to lose their hair. It also prevents hair loss caused by extensions, perms, chemical treatments and bleaching. Additionally, oxygen therapy on the scalp helps relieve dandruff while strengthening and restoring damaged hair, leaving it healthier, thicker and softer. The Anniston Dermatology/Haynes Medi-Spa, with three offices in Alabama, offers an Oxygen Scalp Therapy to help clients regrow their hair via infusions of oxygen. This treatment helps increase the scalp’s moisture levels and targets dry, dehydrated hair follicles, increasing supply and blood flow for increased nourishment. First, the scalp is cleaned with alcohol. Then, a layer of pure oxygen is applied with an airbrush device to open up hair follicles. Next, drops of a stem cell serum are massaged into the area to stimulate hair growth. Patients have been known to see a dramatic difference from this treatment in as little as two weeks. 

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PERMANENT

MAKEUP FOR

Scalps Creating the Ultimate Illusion of Hair with Micropigmentation by Rose Marie Beauchemin Permanent makeup has become an increasingly sought after service for both men and women suffering from hair loss and thinning hair. After all, thicker hair denotes youth while thin, stringy hair gives one an aged look. Although the causes of hair loss may vary, there is a common solution: permanent makeup in the form of scalp micropigmentation. The techniques used depend on the area of the scalp treated and the effect necessary to mimic a hair-like appearance for that area.

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SCALP GUIDE

Hair Thickening Maturity causes hair thinning in women as well as men. While Female Pattern Baldness may not be a widely known term, it is a very real issue related to genetics. Thyroid problems, hormonal imbalances and many other illnesses and medications can contribute to this malady as well. Countless women use powders to color their scalp to make their thinning hair appear thicker, and permanent makeup for the scalp is a great alternative. Applying permanent makeup along the part in a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair can make a significant difference in her appearance. It gives her a more youthful look by eliminating the wide, empty space in her part that makes her hair look so much thinner. This procedure does not color actual hair at the scalp as a touch-up of hair color would, but rather exclusively addresses the scalp. Thinning hair at the top of the head is common for women. Either a shading or hair stubble technique (or both) can be applied in this case.

Temple Hairs Side hairlines can be filled in using sweeping hair strokes. When applied correctly, these effects are quite convincing. Case in point: One of my clients was a dance instructor who was self conscious about her thinning sides. She felt the sides were noticeable when she spun around on the dance floor with her long hair. She longed to be able to pull her hair back into a ponytail, and never could due to this issue. Applying sweeping strokes with permanent makeup along the sides of her hairline opened up a whole new world for her. She now enjoys wearing a ponytail and spins her hair around with confidence.

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Top of Head Another female client started experiencing dramatic thinning of the hair on the top of her head when she reached her 40s. I tattooed the area with microinsertions of color to create a background effect for the hair she still had. This procedure, while tedious, greatly camouflaged her scalp. If her hair continues to thin out, I can simply shade over the micro-insertions to add another dimension and more camouflage.

Stubble Growth It is now a sexy fashion statement for men with shaved heads to sport some stubble growth, and this trend shows no sign of retreating anytime soon. Creating stubble on a shaved head is an easy hair replacement technique that is youthful and easy to maintain. Even recreating a manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s previous hairline on his shaved head with a stubble technique can take years off of his appearance.

Thinning hair at the top of the head is common for women. Either a shading or stubble technique (or both) can be applied in this case.

SCALP GUIDE

For those guys who lost their hair very young and have very little remaining, their entire head can be tattooed with micro-insertions of color that duplicates hair stubbles. While time consuming and expensive for the client, this procedure is a permanent solution. The appearance of hair stubbles is so real that one would have to touch it in order to see that they are not real. These clients will never again have to resort to using a toupĂŠe or weave!

Hair Transplant Scar Camouflage Many men who have aborted hair transplant surgeries now have large smiley face scars across the entire back of their heads, which require scar camouflaging. Many of these transplants have been aborted due to the lack of donor hair. It also may have become too costly to continue or the men simply were not happy with the results. Camouflaging these scars via a permanent makeup procedure is a very popular solution

for these men. The procedure requires mimicking the hair stubble length that the client wishes to wear his hair. Often, a combination of small hairs and stubbles completely fool the eyes and the scars seem to completely disappear into the surrounding stubbles. Micropigmentation can also be used on clients who have completed hair transplants. This occurs because there are cases in completed hair transplants, for both men and women, when the donor sites are scarce. In such cases, permanent makeup or micropigmentation is applied between the transplanted hairs. This technique works in harmony with the transplanted hairs, giving them the appearance of being denser.

Weaves and Dreadlocks These hairstyles pose an issue to those wearing them for extended periods of time due to their weight. The constant pulling can leave bald spots around the hairline or between the weaves. Micropigmentation can solve this problem by adding color that creates a camouflage for these areas.

Pre and Post-Care Instructions It is important for scalp micropigmentation clients to blot the first day after the procedure, since there will be some secretions of both lymph and possibly a small amount of blood. Starting on day 2, apply pure, organic grapeseed oil with a cotton swab twice a day. This oil prevents scabbing and allows the scalp to heal. Clients should avoid washing the head, swimming or using hot tubs for one week.

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SCALP GUIDE

Training Tattooing the scalp is a highly skilled and tedious process, which must be done by someone specially trained in scalp micropigmentation. It is unlike any other type of permanent makeup or tattooing. Pigments can easily migrate and tend to turn bluish very easily if the technician has not received good color training. One must have a trained hand to avoid this unsightly blunder. Engaging in scalp micropigmentation requires advanced training, and primary training is a prerequisite. The classes run for two or three days, and tuitions range between $2,500 and $5,000.

Contraindications Individuals with joint replacements must have medical clearance for scalp micropigmentation. Ask them if they require premedication. Follow this caution for individuals with stents, pacemakers and valve replacements as well.

Cost The cost of scalp micropigmentation procedures varies according to the size of the area receiving micropigmentation. Smaller areas such as head scars can start at $250 per session, and require between one and three sessions. It often works best to build the color rather than to lay it down all at once. Larger areas, such as the top of the head, generally range from $400 to $800 per session and require more than one session. Treatment ranges between one and three sessions to allow texture to build from the use of different needles or colors. Full head treatments for men generally range from $2,500 to $5,000. This usually requires multiple sessions, with the payment made in segments for each session.

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Duration The duration of a scalp procedure can vary greatly, depending on the amount of sun exposure and amount of oil on the scalp, as well as the products and depth of color used for hair simulation. The darker colors tend to last longer than lighter shades. Color that is tattooed into scar tissue may not last as long as color tattooed directly onto the scalp. ď&#x201A;Ą

Rose Marie Beauchemin is the owner and director of education for the Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics. She brings her 25 years of experience and knowledge of makeup artistry and color theory into each training program offered at Beau. For more information, visit beauinstitute.com or call 888.763.2328. Contact Beauchemin at rosemarie@beauinstitute.com.

SCALP GUIDE

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Healthier Scalp = lush hair…

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Spread the word & include these unique

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Nature Pure Rejuvahair Soy Hair Serum with Cognac naturepure.com

Nutrafol Women Advanced Thinning Hair & Hair Loss Supplement nutrafol.com LNEonline.com

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Soy In

Skin by Victoria Tabak

Care

Soybeans are one of natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-kept secrets to maintaining healthy, youthful skin. Many Asian populations live on a soy-based diet, consuming up to 300 milligrams of soy a day. They also have significantly lower incidents of skin conditions, cardiovascular disease, prostate, uterus and breast cancer, osteoporosis and even hot flashes than any other population in the world. In addition, the residents of Asia are known to maintain clearer and younger looking skin than Western and Eastern European countries.

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SOY IN SKIN CARE

n the United States, soy grown in the Midwest is the most pure and non-genetically modified form. It’s now making its way into Western diets for its immeasurable health benefits, as well as the skin care industry as a game-changing natural therapy for the skin. Soy contains some of the richest concentrations of isoflavones, phospholipids, phytosterols, saponins, vitamins, omegas, minerals and protein of any food source. As the holistic lifestyle and healing movement continues to grow, the relevance of soy only becomes stronger.

Nutritional powerhouse Soy is a highly nutritional plant. It is a clean, pure source of protein rich in iron, manganese, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, zinc, potassium, copper, folic acid, vitamins and omegas. Eating soy on a regular basis may boost immunity, strengthen bones, support healthy, younger looking skin, and even potentially lower the risk of many widespread diseases.

Wrinkle repair During the normal maturation process, hormonal imbalances develop, which for women typically involves a decrease in estrogen levels. As a result, skin becomes dehydrated, thinner and less firm due to a decline in collagen and elastin production. There is also a significant drop in hyaluronic acid in the intercellular layers, which is key to keeping skin looking plump. To understand how soy addresses this problem, visualize a lock and key. Picture the locks as receptors, and the keys as hormones. Ideally, there are uninterrupted cycles of keys being accepted by the locks. As skin matures, however, a shortage of keys occurs in the body, leading to an interruption in the process, where there are locks being neglected. An interruption in this flow ultimately causes visible signs of aging. 102

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The remarkable ability of genistein, a phyto-hormone and the heart of soy isoflavones, is to promote an internal balance. Genistein is a plant compound that has a human hormone-like composition, but is not an actual hormone. Because of this, it does not cause any adverse effects. Genistein has remarkable skin benefits. Genistein, together with phosopholipids, critical to the lipid bilayer of every cell membrane, has the unique ability to generate cell membranes. They can rebuild collagen and elastin, increase skin thickness, enhance skin hydration and improve overall wellness while smoothing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. To illustrate how the balancing process works, keep in mind the example of a lock and key. The chemical structure of real estrogen and the chemical structure of genistein are so similar that when genistein makes contact with

the skin, the body accepts it as its own “key”. The skin can actually respond and reactivate the normal flow of receptors being triggered by the genistein, which otherwise are left lingering due to the lack of estrogen. Without ever actually introducing hormones into the body, genistein has the phenomenal properties to initiate internal balance by shifting the equilibrium toward the body’s natural estrogenic side by reactivating stagnant receptors.

Reduces Acne Acne commonly affects hair follicles, sebaceous glands on the face, chest and sometimes the back. The sebaceous glands secrete sebum, which reaches the skin’s surface coming through the hair follicle. In the case of excess sebum production, blockages in the pores occur, provoking breakouts and acne.

O&W

Androgens, the male hormone, are the only hormones that stimulate the sebaceous glands to enlarge and produce greater amounts of sebum, which becomes a culprit that leads to acne. Real estrogen is known for its ability to block the effects of androgens on the sebaceous glands, but that requires a pharmaceutical route, often accompanied by certain side effects. Soy isoflavones have a remarkable adaptogenic ability, and can sense where the internal equilibrium needs to shift, either toward the estrogenic or androgenic side without ever having to implement real hormones. Therefore the skin is able to benefit from exceptional results without the side effects that may accompany pharmaceutical hormone options.

Lessens Redness and Inflammation Soy is rich in phytosterols, saponins and phytic acid. Phytosterols and saponins enhance skin’s immunity and resistance to environmental effects and inflammation. Saponins even have anti-viral characteristics, further protecting the skin from external harmful factors. The saponins’ molecule can absorb toxic buildup, boosting the energy and rejuvenation level of every cell. Phytic acid is an antioxidant rich herbal skin brightener and soother. Phytic acid, along with nourishing topicals omega-3 (alpha-linolenic acid) and omega-6 (linoleic acid), counters skin sensitivities and redness, making soy a remedy that can improve rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and other dermatitis related skin concerns. The combined action of B-vitamins and vitamin K enhances overall blood cell quality and resiliency.

Decreases Severity of Cellulite Cellulite is a metabolic disorder of the connective adipose (fat) tissue. It is described as being composed of waste

SOY IN SKIN CARE

product such as fatty deposits, toxins and fluid between the layers of the connective tissue. Soy isoflavones are a gentle and non-invasive option to reduce the severity of mild grades of cellulite. Daidzein and genistein inhibit adverse rapid cellular growth and encourage the blocking of estrogen when appropriate, which in turn counters the progression and accumulation of cellulite development.

Use In the Spa Treatments incorporating soy are ideal for clients distressed by imbalances, as soy works to remedy hormone-associated acne and menopause-related skin changes in synergy with the body’s own processes. Products containing pure hydrolyzed soy, the most active and penetrable form, can regenerate cells and boost skin vitality. A soy-rich facial treatment is a great option for a wide spectrum of clients depending on their specific skin concerns. A typical 60-minute session can range from $95 to $195. A soy treatment has the potential for immediate and long-term cumulative results, especially when combined with recommended daily home care. Studies have shown that routine treatment and use of soy-based products can be effective enough to substitute some pharmaceutical-based treatments for problem skin and aging.

Victoria Tabak, M.B.A., is a

licensed

esthetician

two states and president of Nature Pure Labs. She began her involvement in the beauty industry early in life and now has more than 18 years of experience along with a master’s degree in business, minoring in chemistry. For more than a decade, Tabak has taught classes on emerging breakthroughs in the anti-aging skin care industry. LNEonline.com

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Connect your clients with nature through outdoor spa services by Maureen Castellon

Fresh air is one of the most accessible and effective beauty ingredients. Instead of recreating the sounds of nature with technology or attempting to bring the great outdoors in, spas can offer menu items for guests to enjoy the real thing. Nature is therapeutic and restorative on a multitude of levels. Given that the majority of spa clients work in offices or reside in increasingly developed areas, wilderness therapies renew a sense of well-being and reconnect the modern soul with the joys of being nurtured by Mother Nature.

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WILD SPA TREATMENTS

ilderness treatments honor healing on a cellular level, which has been referred to as eco-therapy or green therapy. This has proven so effective, participants in a mental health study found that depression scores were reduced by 45 percent just by being surrounded by nature for less than an hour. Spas with or without spacious grounds can be inspired by some of the top treatments in the country.

Full moon meditations With so many screens and devices demanding attention, clients may find themselves disconnected from the earth and themselves. The night sky and full moon can inspire spas to create new experiences. Full moon meditation is any activity that is intentionally done during the cycle of moon to enhance well-being. EuGene Gant, certified mediation teacher and healing practitioner, explains, â&#x20AC;&#x153;by harmonizing yourself with the natural cycles of Earth, as with the full moon, you have the opportunity to balance and heal the adrenal glands, nervous system, blood chemistry and any deep seated emotional or mental ailments. We reinforce the living support system that helps us through our personal struggles. The magic is in us, and we share it with each other and our environment.â&#x20AC;? Physical activity and the full moon can create a winning combination. Full moon yoga offers the opportunity to ground guests to their bodies via lunar salutations. The Alderbrook Resort and Spa in Washington State offers Moonlit Yoga on the shores of Hood Canal, led by a local yoga expert. In keeping with honoring this cycle of the moon,

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Red Mountain Resort in St. George, Utah, offers a Moon Light Hike that presents a two-hour adventure under a starry night illuminated by a full moon. (Moon Light Hike $60/2 hours) Paradise Canyon in Utah has trails that include streambeds, lava flow fields and Navajo Sandstone rocks. Spas can create a sacred space indoors or on rooftops with carefully placed lights, a few candles and scattered area rugs. For spas that are not in scenic areas, a nearby park can be an option to rent at least one night a month, or a guided adventure may be possible at a nearby national park.

Publicize these natural events to maximize interest.

If doing rooftop or park activities, consider adding a waiver for participants.

Labyrinth/walking meditation Walking is a way to get from point A to B, but with a deeper consciousness, one foot in front of the other can turn into an effective mind, body and spirit treatment in nature. Guests simply follow a set path, walking from

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to return to the entrance. Guests can be encouraged to create a personal maze that expresses their journey through art.

Outdoor day retreats

the entrance to the middle of the framework and back again while remaining in silence. Meditative movement with or without labyrinths allows the human mind to have a set path to focus upon as the body slowly releases stress and anxiety while deepening a sense of self. Spas can offer guided walking meditation via labyrinths to provide clarity and well-being through intentional movement. Tucson’s Miraval Resort Director of Programming Sue Adkins shares, “we believe nature and beauty go hand in hand, bringing out the best of each other. When guests are immersed in nature they

are one of the rawest, most astounding elements of the earth.” Miraval’s Labyrinth Journey offers guests the opportunity to be an essential component in these works of art seen on the floor of numerous Buddhist temples and the Chartres Cathedral. This meditation is an opportunity to be in tune with the healing forces of the wilderness. The Labyrinth Journey is included for guests or day pass holders without a time limit. Spas without spacious grounds can create a labyrinth experience with masking tape, chalk or drop cloth. Paths must include an entrance and decorative center, with enough space

A full day retreat offers the chance to dedicate hours to self-care via a multitude of treatments and activities. Clients can fully enjoy a day scheduled to maximize complete wellbeing. Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary, located in Sonoma County, administers the eponymous Osmosis Ritual, a full-day meditation ritual complete with a cedar enzyme bath, 75-minute massage, catered lunch, a hammock facial in a field featuring sound therapy, a dharma talk and mediation. By combining beauty treatments, such as the Japanese fermented heat cedar bath, and spiritual elements, guests can be fully grounded in nature while raising their vibrations into a state of complete wellness. To create a similar experience, invite a spiritual leader to give a talk on a wellness topic ranging from forgiveness to emotional self-care. Consider incorporating juicing as it provides an excellent opportunity for a retreat to last hours or days. Juicing complements most retreats by being able to incorporate yoga and meditation alongside treatments such as chakra healing. Provide a set schedule with activities that are in harmony with one another, and clients are sure to sign up. A combination of beauty treatments and spiritual journeying can be tied into chosen themes to be incorporated throughout the day for a truly relaxing experience for clients.

Osmosis Ritual prices are available upon request.

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Sound therapies

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The Claremont Club & Spa at the Fairmont Hotel in Berkeley, Calif., offers the Tibetan Sound Massage that has five Tibetan singing bowls crafted from 17th and 18th century bronze of varying sizes placed on key spinal energy centers. The practitioner uses soft mallets to strike the rims to generate binaural beat. These relaxing audio sensations create two slightly varying frequency tones distinctive of alpha and delta states. These sounds harness the power to release emotional patterns, thought forms, muscle memory and scar tissue to bring deep relaxation to the body. Clients experience being completely present in a new level of relaxation. Tibetan Sound Massage 75 minutes/$225 To create a similarly tranquil ambiance by creating a healing area,

simply rearrange the waiting area or create a serenity nook complete with blankets or yoga mats. Instead of hiring in-house, spas always have the option to partner with local practitioners of the curative arts. Crystal bowl healing and gong bath sessions can be contracted out for singular treatments or as add-ons. Research local spiritual leaders to determine which best serve your client base via references and testimonials as well as years of experience. Continuing to be a trendsetter in wilderness therapies, Miraval Resort provides guests with an innovative sound therapy treatment christened the Himalayan Sound Bath. Every treatment includes a strong element of mindfulness. Master Healer Pam Lancaster designed the experience to tune into sonic healing. Guests are immersed in the spa’s therapeutic pool as five ancient healing bowls are

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For centuries, the sounds of nature have been part of integrative medicine for their healing properties. Branches of audio therapy, such as acutonics, have been created to heal the mind, body and soul. Every organ, bone and tissue has its own resonant frequency according to Ellen F. Franklin, co-founder and CEO of the Acutonics Institute of Integrative Medicine. Acutonics uses the audible vibrations of the Universe to heal the human body on a cellular level. “The non-invasive therapy generates a sense of enormous well-being as it improves skin, reduces pain and leaves clients feeling balanced on all levels," she explains. "The process of sound therapy is to apply planetary gongs, hand chimes, tuning forks or Tibetan bowls directly on acupuncture points to feed the body’s core energy grids and meridians.”

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placed on or float around the body. Sounds radiating from the vessels create a healing, womb-like experience. Himalayan Sound Bath 60 minutes/$125 Sonic, non-invasive approaches to health and well-being can be adopted for use in a variety of spa services. Massages, for example, can extend deeper into the muscles with directly applied sounds, and simple, focused treatments can be taught to clients for home use to improve sleep and promote deep relaxation.

Soaking in the sun The sounds of the great outdoors combined with massage can create a treatment that has a wait list! Leaving the four walls of traditional spas, therapists work on guests under coverings. Those that have experienced outdoor massages report a sense of relaxation that remains for days afterward. Wilderness treatments reach a new level of luxury with the Sacred Space Massage offered by The Wilderness Adventure Spa at Spring Creek Ranch in Jackson Hole, Wyo. Guests relax on a massage table in a teepee overlooking the vistas of the nearby Grand Tetons, often still snowcapped in May. The alpine scenery provides the perfect environment for healing as therapists customize massages. Sacred Space Massage 60 minutes/$155 Spas that do not have similar views can use tents, canopies or umbrellas to shield clients as they enjoy wilderness treatments. The key element is to harness the power of natural locations. Clients will enjoy the crisp air of the mountains, the lulling quality of seaside massages or just the gentle breeze. Research the best times of day and the best seasons for treatments.

The C Lazy U Spa in Granby, Colo., explores the great outdoors with relaxation. The Cowboy Soak offers a truly spectacular experience. Senior Operations Manager, Ami M. Specktor, Esq., describes the wilderness treatment as “two massage tents that open to a large meadow that also has a view of the babbling water of Willow Creek below the massage tables via glass floors. The spa’s signature treatment indulges patrons with a combination of comfort and beauty during a moonlit soak in deep copper tubs that overlook the creek.” Guests can look down during their body treatments to enjoy the aquatic wilderness beneath them. During the cold months, a wood-burning stove warms guests, and for holidays the tubs are decorated to match the festivities, such as rose petals for Valentine’s Day. Cowboy Soak 50 minutes/$375 Over the din of technology, the sounds of nature are deeply relaxing to the modern mind. When produced authentically, the mind focuses on amplitude and frequency fluctuations rather than stresses. One way to give guests a wilderness experience indoors is to purchase a soundscape that is a true recording of nature, rather than one done on a loop for white noise purposes. Guests may also appreciate a video of natural settings, and this visual delight can be placed in relaxation or waiting areas.

Garden of beauty Facials experienced in the wilderness can have added dimensions. Clients enjoy face treatments, generally without extractions, in the fresh air to revitalize their skin. Hawaii has one of the best wilderness treatments inspired by local beauty. The Anara Spa at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and

WILD SPA TREATMENTS

Spa offers the Lokahi Facial, which takes place in a garden of the same name. The word lokahi means harmony for the mind, body and spirit. In keeping with the flow of nature, each treatment bungalow opens to a tropical garden with a private rain shower. Nearby waterfalls add to this wilderness treatment by generating negative ions, believed to increase serotonin levels, via motion and sound. The gentle flow of waterfalls, both natural and engineered, creates natural white noise that promotes well-being in clients. Lokahi Facial 50 minutes/$185, 80 minutes/$270 Spas can draw inspiration from Anara by creating a local garden for outdoor treatments to take place. Consider filling a patio or rooftop with sand or add whimsical additions, such as hammocks tied to palm trees, if space permits. By creating an outdoor space inspired by nature, guests reap the benefits of fresh air and experience a mini holiday simultaneously.

Bring clients into the wilderness to add enjoyable dimensions to mind, body and spirit treatments. ¡

Maureen Castellon is the associate editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques and Spa and an adjunct writing professor at Miami Dade College. She graduated with honors from the English department at the University of Alabama and currently blogs at sirenpublications.com. When not writing about beauty, Castellon can be found meditating on the beach with her German Shepherd.

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double dose of goodness

Organic & Wellness News

The Fusion All Natural Face Moisturizer and All Natural Face and Body Wash from Repêchage is a rich soufflé of natural and organic coconut oil, aloe vera, chamomile, vanilla and rooibos tea combined with Laminaria Complex, delivering soft, smooth skin, suitable for all ages. This gently foaming wash delights with the uplifting aroma of açai berry.

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buzzworthy ingredients

The PhytoLiftTM Neck & Décolleté Cream from ilike Organic Skin Care is a deeply hydrating treatment that addresses the thinner, more fragile skin structure on the neck and décolleté. It is formulated with a unique blend of grapeseed oil, calendula, shea butter, flaxseed and lavender oil that renders skin dewy and deeply hydrated.

BOtanically bold

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

The Intensive Eye Balm from Arya Essentials is a night treatment with a restorative formula to reduce and prevent fine lines while brightening and protecting the delicate eye area. Ashwagandha and Manjishta work together to reduce under eye circles and puffiness while Brahmi minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

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This concentrated blend of botanicals increases elasticity, deeply hydrates and revives the delicate tissues around the eye.

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SOPHISTICATED SIMPLICITY

Purity Renewing Facial Oil from PurErb™ bathes skin in a refreshing, woodsy aroma. Nourishing botanical oils restore suppleness, softness and radiance, while the uplifting aroma inspires feelings of confidence. “Purity Renewing Facial Oil’s unisex aroma appeals to both men and women, who can use it after shaving, exfoliating, bathing, and especially when exposed to dry climates that parch skin,” says Janel Luu, CEO of PurErb.

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Hops, red clover and yucca boost collagen production for firmer skin below the jawline.

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

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Thinking of Adding Makeup to Your Spa?

Healthy Makeup Means Healthy Skin

This month: Katia Simonenko owner of Pearl Skin Studio, Las Vegas, Nev.

SERVICE AND RETAIL

How did you choose your makeup lines?

What kind of makeup treatments do you offer on the menu?

We went with tried and true lines that align with our philosophy of healthy makeup. Our goal is to provide the highest quality ingredients for clients. We carry brands of skin care and mineral makeup we are confident offering.

We offer Adult, Bridal, Express and Special Occasion makeup treatments. I am proud to say we offer teen makeup lessons as well. My daughter inspired me to create an option for teens to learn how to put on makeup properly. When parents do not allow their daughters to wear makeup or ban them from wearing it, the result is a heavy hand that does not look appropriate to their coloring. Makeup teaches women of all ages self-care, which is a lifelong lesson. 116

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Why did you decide to implement makeup into your spa? My philosophy is that makeup and skin care must go together; skin care cannot be without makeup. Facial treatments can leave clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin blotchy and there is always the need

to protect skin from the sun. The right makeup can meet these needs with high-quality ingredients and protection. For example, mineral makeup is healthy and great for the skin. I am an advocate of sunscreen as most estheticians are, but I believe it can also be fun with makeup.

How did you do the implementation? We considered what was best for our clients. Early on, we decided the best way to introduce clients to healthy makeup was through education. After every treatment, staff would bring them to the skin area. We discussed

so much to do and the Express offers a quick option to look pulled together and at their personal best.

How profitable are makeup services? Where does makeup rank in your spa revenue composition? Between prom season, Christmas, Thanksgiving and the festival season, our makeup services comprise 20 percent of our revenue. We sell makeup but do not have a service charge; that is usually between 20-25 percent.

MAKEUP AREA What is the surface area of the makeup area compared to the rest of the spa?

powdered sunscreen and vitamin-enriched protection. We would sit down and teach clients step-by-step how to go from light to heavy with just a few key strokes. Every client wants to look natural with an even skin tone. This can be accomplished with the skin being able to breathe as well. Some clients were hesitant to try makeup after a facial, but once they knew the benefits, such as not looking cakey, they were more than happy to try a complimentary touch up. Most would come back and purchase it before or at their next appointment. Clients had discovered their best desired look and wanted to maintain it.

Which makeup services have the most success? Our Express option is very popular. Mothers that are treating themselves to our services do not want to pick up their kids without looking their best for the other mothers. In 15 minutes, no one can tell they were enjoying â&#x20AC;&#x153;meâ&#x20AC;? time and can go about their day looking great. Busy women have

I love makeup and wanted my studio to reflect that. Forty-five percent of the retail area is dedicated to makeup.

What prompted you to choose that size? I wanted clients to have a visual representation of my passion for makeup. The retail area is fully stocked so clients have a wide selection in a spectrum of colors. We have a choice of healthy makeup that will not clog pores. It is important to me to have a space that excites clients to be daring or to maintain their best look.

TEAM MEMBERS How did you select makeup artists? We pride ourselves on having team members that love their jobs. We seek staff that has a passion for makeup and are open to new concepts. It is easy to get stuck in a look and repeat it as a signature. We encourage keeping up on trends and doing looks that the client will look best in. I train each team member so when I hire, I want employees that I can invest in.

Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment? Yes, however we implement no-pressure tactics. We are here to educate our clients about makeup and what it can do for skin in addition to improving their overall appearance. Our promotion strategy is to provide relevant content on our website, social media platforms and YouTube channel. Clients feel comfortable with our expertise and seek us out as a result.

MARKETING How do you promote your makeup services? We offer a complimentary Express touch-up after every treatment. In 15 minutes we apply blush, mascara and foundation to get clients ready for the world. During this time we also educate them on the products and upsell. Social media is a great tool for promotion. Our platforms showcase before and after pictures. We also have a YouTube channel of product reviews that address client pain points. We update consistently every Friday and are open to feedback.

Do you have special promotions for makeup? Thanksgiving and springtime are our biggest times to promote. Thanksgiving is right before the holiday season when clients have not begun shopping yet, but want to look their best for upcoming parties. The springtime is when lines put out new products for spring/summer. We use these times to do promotions.

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BLENDING MAKEUPAND

Skin Care The best of both worlds for skin via the cleanest ingredients by Hannah Hatcher

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no secret that many women feel uncomfortable leaving the house without makeup. Makeup remains on the skin for 12 to 14 hours a day, every day, longer than many skin care products. Doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t it make sense then that the makeup people wear daily should improve the health of their skin?

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BLENDING MAKEUP AND SKIN CARE

he accessibility of makeup with skin care benefits has created a new level of ingredient awareness in spa clients. They now understand there are some ingredients to avoid, and it becomes the job of estheticians and makeup artists to educate clients on which ones to seek out. The concept of clean makeup has become mainstream in the past decade, and the world’s largest cosmetic companies now offer mineral or “all natural” collections for conscious consumers. As clients shop for new or replacement makeup products, estheticians have an opportunity to be their source for makeup retail, by offering makeup with multiple benefits and skin-loving ingredients. Taking the time to show clients healthier, safer and more beneficial alternatives to ingredients such as petroleum, FD&C dyes, parabens and fragrance provides an engaging retail conversation point, but also improves their level of at home care, thus improving the results of their treatments and procedures. Share the following recommendations with your clients (and stock your backbar and retail makeup lineup accordingly), and you will become their go to source for their most essential products!

Primer This first step in a client’s makeup routine is closest to her skin, and today’s primers can do more than smooth skin’s texture and allow makeup to adhere. For clients concerned with oiliness and enlarged pores, recommend a primer with hydrated silica. Hydrated silica absorbs excess oils to maintain a smooth, soft finish all day, and it can hold up to seven times its weight in moisture. It can also “fill in” enlarged pores, but is water soluble and can be easily cleansed away. For

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clients struggling with hyperpigmentation, a primer containing antioxidant pryus malus (apple) extract can help fight free radical damage that causes discoloration. Apple is also a known skin conditioner, which is ideal for addressing dehydration and maintaining skin’s elasticity.

Liquid Foundation For clients concerned with dryness, dehydration or mature skin, recommend liquid foundations made with nourishing skin care ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and Coenzyme Q10. Hyaluronic acid is a moisture-binding

ingredient that holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water. This improves hydration levels and can also help alleviate topical fine lines caused by dehydration. Coenzyme Q10 helps prevent premature signs of aging by stimulating the vital energy necessary for skin cells to heal, protect and rejuvenate. It also acts as a powerful antioxidant, and can help reduce the depth of fine lines and wrinkles when used daily.

BB Cream, CC Cream and Powder Foundation All estheticians know that the best antiaging ingredient on the market is SPF!

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Sun protection is now offered in a variety of foundations, making it easier than ever to maintain daily protection. BB and CC creams have led the way in this category, as they provide SPF 15 through 30, but many pressed and loose powder foundations also feature SPF in a wearable way. New technologies allow formulators to coat physical sunscreen particles so they appear translucent on the skin, avoiding a grey or ashy look that was previously associated with mineral sunscreen. Many sunscreens also work as anti-inflammatories, calming and soothing the skin for added benefits.

Concealer Concealers can now treat the issues they cover rather than just hide them. For clients struggling with acne or sporadic hormonal breakouts, recommend concealers that contain healing, calming and bacteria fighting ingredients like tea tree, lavender and green tea extracts. For a stronger treatment, rec-

BLENDING MAKEUP AND SKIN CARE

ommend concealers that contain pure salicylic acid, which helps kill bacteria and gently exfoliates dead skin cells. Some acne-specific concealers even contain Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO), which introduces oxygen into the pore and helps kill P. acnes bacteria. Recommend these concealers with caution, as some clients have found BPO to cause hyperpigmentation and scarring after the breakout has subsided. Concealers with brightening ingredients can also address scars and sun spots, aiding in post-treatment results and helping to prevent more hyperpigmentation. Ingredients such as licorice and arbutin have been shown to be wonderful natural skin brighteners, an alternative to hydroquinone. Concealers with antioxidants like vitamins A, C and E as well as green tea extract are also ideal for these skin conditions. They can help fight free radical damage and repair existing UV damage.

Lip Products In the past, choosing a lip product with beautiful pigment or a pretty, matte finish meant ending the day with chapped, flaky lips. With today’s skin care infused makeup, it’s possible to achieve a longwearing pop of color without moisture loss. Look for lipsticks made with nourishing oils, like moringa oil, which is rich in fatty acids and has a high content of vitamins A and C. For added protection on the thinner skin of the lips, choose formulas with antioxidant rich botanicals, like extracts of blackberry and pomegranate or avocado and sunflower seed oils. It’s also worth noting that the movement toward skin care infused makeup is more advanced than ingredients alone. The cosmetics category has introduced new technology and delivery systems that enhance the efficacy

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BLENDING MAKEUP AND SKIN CARE

Going through a client’s makeup bag can be an eye opening experience.

of these ingredients. Many of today’s formulations do more than add small amounts of extracts or hydrators to their products for curb appeal — the ingredients are now an active part of the formulations. For example, some product lines are developing liquid foundations that use liposomal technology to encapsulate active skin care ingredients within the formula. Liposomes are unique delivery systems typically made up of a skin friendly protein that can house a vast number of potent ingredients and deliver them to the skin directly through the protein bond. Makeup has become so much more than color! Providing a makeup lesson or consultation that involves going through a client’s makeup bag can be an eye opening experience, and allows you to point out healthier and more beneficial alternatives. Rather than wear-

ing makeup to look good for one day, educate your clients to use makeup that improves the health of their skin each time they wear it. Always remind them that the best cosmetic they can wear is healthy skin! ¡

Hannah Hatcher is a makeup artist and global educator for jane iredale. A licensed esthetician, Hatcher taught post-graduate skin care for seven years with the International Dermal Institute and now teaches artists across the world about jane iredale. She thrives on product knowledge and inspiring those she teaches. Hatcher believes that in order to get beautiful results with makeup, skin should be a clear and healthy canvas.

are one of the best magical wands to estheticians!! Learn all the secrets about peels in our coming guide to dazzle your clients with improved skin tone, texture and radiance.

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trobing S THE NEW HIGHLIGHTING TRICK IN MAKEUP by Ami Mallon

new time is upon us. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s color trends, key ingredients, packaging or endorsements, styles and techniques are always changing in the world of makeup, and the language of makeup is no exception. Gone are the days of cold cream and rouge. As a beauty professional, you must be in the know about the latest makeup trends, so you have most likely heard some new words that have come on the scene â&#x20AC;&#x201D; strobing, baking and sandbagging. It is important to know these new terms and techniques to keep up with the beauty needs of your clients.

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STROBING?!

CONTOURING:

A POINT OF REFERENCE The traditional method of contouring is the act of utilizing a dark matte color to enhance and define — or “carve out” — the hollow areas of the face. The technique creates the illusion of more depth in the face, creating the appearance of a more angular and enhanced version of one’s own bone structure. It is achieved with either powder or cream makeup (normally about two shades darker than one’s natural skin tone) under the high points of the face (such as under the cheekbones, jawline, sides of the nose, etc.). These points are blended in order to create symmetry, and to appear as though there has been a shadow cast, as in shading on a painting.

STROBING

Dubbed the “anti-contour”, strobing is a simplified method that focuses on bringing light to the high points of the face. It can be described as highlighting on steroids. The strobing method follows the usual contouring steps, but eliminates the carving out of features and heads straight for the highlighter stick. It’s all about enhancing features using only a highlighter and natural light. Strobing involves layers of skin care and makeup meant to illuminate the skin, applied in the following order:

1 Moisturizer 2 Liquid highlighter 3 Foundation 4 Powder highlighter Strobing differs from highlighting in that instead of utilizing a contour shade, a translucent powder is strategically used to avoid making the face look like a shiny disco ball. Face shape, color and desired effect are all taken into consideration when customizing your strobing method for each client. See the following notes on highlighting for reference on each of these elements.

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HIGHLIGHTING

A good way to explain highlighting is “opposite of contour”. Contouring and highlighting are most often used together. Highlighting has become increasingly more popular and prominent in the world of makeup trends. Highlighting is the act of using light colors to enhance or draw out the best features on the face. It’s a very subtle way to create definition in the face while also providing a youthful glow. This technique is accomplished by placing either a shimmery or matte powder or cream product on the high points of the face, such as the tops of the cheekbones, below the brow, bridge of the nose, top of the Cupid's bow, etc.

• Face Shape

As with contouring, face shape is important when determining highlight placement. However, it is used in the exact opposite way as contouring. Instead of using contouring to assist in downplaying features, highlighting techniques are used to draw out the best ones or create a more subtle structure to the face. For example, in the case of the client with a heart shaped face, contouring would be used to make the forehead appear smaller, while highlighting the jaw area would create a fuller effect, therefore creating more symmetry in the face.

• Color

Determining the proper color for a highlight shade is also very important. Choose a shade that is two shades lighter than the client’s natural skin tone. Those with a more "warm" undertone (yellowish) may require a warmer highlight shade (more golden).

• Effect

Unlike contour shades, highlight colors may either be shimmery or matte. Shimmery highlights create a gorgeous, dewy youthful glow, whereas matte highlights are more subtle and best for giving structure and light to the face. For skin that tends to run normal or oily, a matte highlight may work best.

BAKING/ SANDBAGGING Another hot new trend in makeup brought on by the long line of Kardashian prompted makeup movements is “sandbagging”. Sandbagging involves deliberately packing large amounts of loose powder on top of foundation and concealer, particularly in the under-eye area and around the lips. The secret to this application is to wait several minutes after the loose powder is applied (heavily with a damp sponge) before blending. This allows extra time for the powder to absorb

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STROBING?!

any excess oils, and helps to set and lock makeup into the areas where it is applied. This technique creates a barrier, allowing the face to look smooth throughout the day, and preventing smudging of lipstick and eye makeup. The sandbagging technique works particularly well under the eye area to help set concealer. This is another trend referred to as “baking”. Baking, while very similar to sandbagging, is less focused on smoothing out the skin and is used more frequently for highlighting. As you stock up on your favorite matte bronzers, shimmery illuminators and loose powders this season, keep these new techniques in mind to give your clients’ faces a flattering structure!  Ami Mallon is a licensed esthetician and makeup artist. She has worked closely with top spas, medical spas, dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Mallon previously served as the Director of Education for Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare and as a national makeup artist and skin care educator for gloProfessional. Now a freelance artist, she uses her passion and knowledge of skin and cosmetics to educate her clients,

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creatively and professionally.

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FLAWLESS EYES

The EYE CONTOUR LIFECELL CREAM from Nelly de Vuyst is the ultimate advanced eye treatment for wrinkles, dark circles and eye puffiness with proven results worldwide. Made with salmon DNA, this specialized formulation promotes the production of collagen and elastin to increase firmness in the delicate eye contour area.

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impeccable application

Prime skin to perfection with the I PRIME Flawless Blur Gel from IMAGE Skincare. This powerful blend of potent antioxidants, plant-derived stem cells and botanicals fight free radical damage and skin aging. The ultra-silky blur gel primes skin to perfection and leaves skin flawless and ready for makeup application.

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Image News

HEAVENLY RESTORATION Look-at-me lips require more than just lip service, and the deep conditioning Lip Salvation with aloe and citrus from Bella Schneider Beauty is the best way to get ready for pigment primetime!

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

This salve also entices with its yummy aloe-citrus flavor and perfect pocket size.

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nourishing treatment

The Eye Nutrients Cream from Ecco Bella is an all-natural formula that replenishes and rejuvenates the delicate skin around the eyes, creating a well-rested and fresh looking face. The super silky texture allows for a smooth application and overall perfect finish.

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ADVERTISER INDEX

Reader Service No.

Page Number

61............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 109............. Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 55............... Avery Graham......................................................... averygraham.com............................................................ 355 108............. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 10............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 127............. Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 39............... Bon Vital.................................................................. bonvital.com................................................................... 265 15............... Decleor................................................................... decleorusa.com............................................................... 257 108............. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 129............. Equipro USA........................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 47............... EuroSpa Aromatics.................................................. eurospaaromatics.com..................................................... 150 11............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 48,49.......... Grandelash MD....................................................... grandelashmd.com........................................................ 286 4,5.............. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgeforlife.com............................................................... 201 65,75.......... Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 41-46......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach.... longbeach.skincareshows.com 114,115...... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami............. miami.skincareshows.com 131............. Jojoba Company..................................................... jojobacompany.com........................................................ 108 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 36............... LashBomb............................................................... lashbomb.com................................................................ 280 31............... Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 58............... Methode Brigitte Kettner........................................ mbkskincare.com............................................................. 329 132............. Nelly Devuyst / Derme & Co.................................. derme.ca......................................................................... 124 93...............Nouveau Contour.....................................................nouveaucontourusa.com................................................. 186 17............... PurErb Skin Care..................................................... purerbskincare.com........................................................ 294 16............... RéjuvaSea................................................................ rejuvasea.com................................................................. 246 123............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 98,99.......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 37............... RevitaLash............................................................... revitalash.com................................................................. 346 23............... Satin Smooth........................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................. 304 113............. Skin Blends.............................................................. skinblends.com............................................................... 283 24............... Skin for Life............................................................. skinforlife.com................................................................. 156 67............... TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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AUGUST 2016

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #108 on reader service card

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #124 on reader service card