LNE & Spa - December 2016 by LNE Magazine | Esthetician Edit Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals December 2016

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from the

editor Technology is today’s vehicle of convenience, something we all crave in our modern, time-pressed lives. This extends into the arenas of beauty and well-being, the cornerstones of the spa industry, which has expanded to encompass medical spas. These hybrids of medical clinics and day spas give clients the opportunity to have all their beauty needs met in one place. This month, discover how to bring med spa treatments into your own spa with our special Medical Spa Guide! This guide explores how spas can partner with a doctor, the legalities of fee splitting, the dos and don’ts of advertising a med spa business and the most daring and innovative treatments being offered in medical spas today. Technology has also made an impact in the industry with the revolutionary yet controversial concept of microneedling. Three industry luminaries share their exclusive insights on the benefits, rules, legalities and purchasing considerations to take into account with this cutting-edge technology in “Microneedling Update”. On the flip side of convenience, too much technological stimulation can often lead to a problem addressed in this issue: sleep deprivation. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention report that one in three adults do not get enough sleep. Wake your clients up to the hazards that this lack of shut-eye inflicts on their complexion — negating the effects of your treatments — with insight from “The 8 Hour Beauty Secret”. Educate your clients on how to utilize this information for an inexhaustible glow. Also in this issue, we address how to tailor services to meet the unique needs of a key component of your clientele: menopausal women. Women from all walks of life experience the big “change” at a certain age. Learn how you can make your spa into a sanctuary for middle aged women with customized care in “Spas and Menopause”.

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Next, is it time to revamp your business? First, reimagine the spa experience from your clients’ point of view to boost revenue with “What is Your Clients’ Perspective?” Also, learn how to assess the health of your spa business and address challenges with expert advice in “Is Your Spa Healthy?”

On the topic of beauty, help your clients avoid common blunders in their makeup routines in “7 Deadly Makeup Sins and How to Avoid Them in Your Spa”. Additionally, find out how to create the perfect canvas for any makeup application with “Skin Optimization”.

Give yourself the gift of inspiration with our December issue.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com

DECEMBER 2016

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REV101116

decembe r 20 1 6

V olume 31

N umbe r 1 2

CONTENTS SKIN

Microneedling Update The 8 Hour Beauty Secret Beyond Paraben-Free Skin News

12 20 24 30

ORGANIC & WELLNESS

Hot & Spicy Skin Care 96 Perform an Aura Cleansing 100 Delighting in Herbs 106 Organic & Wellness News 114

Microneedling Update page 12

Perform an Aura Cleansing page 100

SPA

Spa of the Month Miami Recap Spas and Menopause Spa News

32 38 44 51

7 Deadly Makeup Sins page 118

IMAGE

BUSINESS

Behind the Spa Door with David Neddam Lights, Camera, Action! Is Your Spa Healthy? What is Your Clients' Perspective? Business News

MEDICAL SPA GUIDE

52 54 60 66 70

Partnering With a Physician 72 Fee Splitting 101 76 Advertising Your Medical Spa 78 Taking Beauty to the Extreme 82 Medical Spa Product Photo Feature 90

Medical Spa Guide page 71

Business Advice for Beauty Professionals with Pattie Kobe 116 7 Deadly Makeup Sins and How to Avoid Them in Your Spa 118 Skin Optimization 124 Image News 129

EXTRAS From the Editor Advertiser Index

6 130

Cover

DESSANGE PARIS

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial Assistant & Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Alan Araya alan@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com

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Web Developer webdeveloper@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontributors Tina Abnoosi Carrie Borzillo Maureen Castellon Marizza Contreras Donna Dodier AC Dotterweich

Justin Dotterweich Jacqueline Kleis Ami Mallon Kristina Mazzenga Rachael Pontillo

Louis Silberman Victoria Tabak Alex R. Thiersch, J.D. Terri Vinson, M.D. Susanne S. Warfield Amanda Clinton Winter

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Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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shedding light on the technology LOUIS SILBERMAN and ALEX THIERSCH weigh in on the latest developments and legalities of this cutting-edge treatment, and SUSANNE WARFIELD explains the key purchasing factors to consider for microneedling technologyâ&#x20AC;¦

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SKIN

MICRONEEDLING UPDATE

by Louis Silberman

Like so many other things technologyrelated, microneedling has come a long way since its inception. While some say forms of individual microneedling were first used centuries ago by Chinese acupuncturists, later versions included a manual, rotating “wheel” with many needles that was rolled over the skin. Today’s devices are often automated and may be combined with other modalities such as radio frequency. The concept behind microneedling, however, remains the same. By puncturing the skin, intentionally causing superficial damage with tiny, sterilized needles, it is prompted into healing mode and in the process, tone and texture are improved. Before or after a procedure, collagenstimulating products such as purified growth factor serums or platelet rich plasma (PRP) can also be applied to the skin to enhance results. Afterward, hydrating and healing products can assist the skin’s recovery. There have been several significant advances in microneedling over the

DECEMBER 2016

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years: The size/type of the needle, the speed/efficiency of the delivery device and how deeply the needles can go. Over time, needles — either solid or hollow, insulated or uninsulated, some are even gold covered — have gotten very, very small so that a greater surface area can be penetrated at once, providing a more comfortable treatment. The delivery devices have gotten faster so that instead of a “stamping” motion, needles can be quickly glided across the skin. And needles can now be adjusted to go deeper, depending on the skin and condition being treated. All skin types can be treated with microneedling and it’s typically used for rejuvenation purpose, including rebuilding collagen, tightening, improving fine lines, reducing enlarged pores and diminishing acne scars. Historically, microneedling devices were considered a Class 1 device because needles either didn’t exceed a specified length or clinical endpoint (i.e., pinpoint bleeding), as determined

by individual state cosmetology boards. However, now that needles have the capacity to go deeper, that’s quickly changing. While deeper penetration may generate better results, especially for concerns like acne scars, it’s considered a medical rather than esthetic procedure, making it a Class 2 device — whether manual or motorized. Medical procedures are regulated by medical boards and can be performed only under a medical director’s supervision (here again, each state is a little different regarding its requirements). Broadly speaking, estheticians are prohibited from performing any type of medical procedure and in this case, that would include anything that breaks the outer layer of skin. It gets a little tricky, though, because the needles are so small — and unless the result is obvious blood formation, the skin may not appear broken. These new classifications are a hot topic, especially as many laser companies consider adding

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SKIN

MICRONEEDLING UPDATE

microneedling to their product lines to meet consumer demand. And just what’s driving this increased demand? Well, for one thing, celebrities on social media. Just Google “vampire facial” and you’ll see a video of Kim Kardashian getting a microneedling facial along

with PRP, using her own blood that is topically applied to her skin. As microneedling with PRP also increases in popularity, it’s important to note that the person drawing the client’s blood and putting it on the client’s face must also be a licensed medical professional.

This is certainly an exciting time in the medical esthetics industry, as we attempt to keep regulations current with ever-changing technology. But the good news for the client is, as technology such as microneedling keeps getting better and better, so do results.

by Alex R. Thiersch, J.D.

MICRONEEDLING — also known as collagen induction therapy — is a skin treatment in which tiny needles penetrate the skin in order to create superficial wounds that stimulate the production of collagen and other growth factors. It produces visible results with little chance of complications, and it is popular with both patients and medical esthetics professionals because it is easy and fast. However, while these procedures are simple, the legal issues surround-

DECEMBER 2016

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ing them are not. Is microneedling medical in nature? Who can perform it? It’s imperative that you understand the debate surrounding this matter if your medical spa offers microneedling services.

Generally speaking, any treatment that breaks the outer layer of the patient’s skin is considered a medical treatment. It might seem logical that any proce-

dure involving a needle also involves breaking the skin, but judging whether or not the skin is being broken is very difficult when you are dealing with tiny needles that can be mere fractions of a millimeter long. At what depth is the skin broken? There is no agreed-upon legal standard. It can vary from patient to patient depending on the part of the body being treated and the amount of pressure applied. If a microneedling procedure is

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SKIN

MICRONEEDLING UPDATE

not medical in nature, an esthetician can perform it without an exam. However, if it is medical in nature, a patient history must be taken, a medical professional must examine the patient prior to any treatment, and proper supervision and/or delegation procedures must be observed while the procedure is taking place. This makes microneedling far less profitable for the medical spa and much less convenient for the patient.

Historically, the legalities of microneedling have not been explicitly addressed by state authorities, so medical esthetic practices and medical spas have often

treated it as a non-medical procedure. However, in recent months, both the Illinois Department of Financial and Professional Regulation and the California Department of Consumer Affairs Board of Barbering and Cosmetology have issued statements declaring microneedling to be an invasive procedure, and thus medical in nature. “This isn’t new — estheticians cannot penetrate the skin,” said Kristy Underwood, executive director of the California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology, at the AmSpa Medical Spa Boot Camp in San Jose, Calif., in September 2016. “They also can’t use any metal needles, period … [California] estheticians are prohibited from using metal needles, as well as anything that might be used in a

manner that is disapproved by the FDA.” Underwood also discussed the issue of needle depth. “[California] doesn’t define the depth,” she said. “We do say that [estheticians] can’t go below the epidermis.” As California and Illinois go, so too goes much of the industry. Because of this, it is best for those who own and operate medical esthetic practices and medical spas to come to terms with this reality as soon as possible in order to limit the exposure of their facilities and employees. It may adversely affect your practice’s bottom line at first, but you will likely find that conforming to this standard now will improve your services as well as prevent legal issues in the future.

by Susanne S. Warfield

Skin care technology has evolved and expanded throughout the decades. It started with microdermabrasion back in the 1990s, followed by Intense Pulsed Light for hair removal, then lasers for photorejuvenation. Today, microneedling is the latest technology sweeping through our industry.

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As estheticians, we need to avoid putting ourselves into jeopardy when it comes to purchasing and using equipment, including microneedling devices. Let’s start by asking better questions, beginning with Equipment Identification and information on the Manufacturer’s “Intended Use

Statement” and “Indications for Use.” Is the manufacturer registered, what certifications do they have, and do they carry liability insurance? What about warranties and service policies and training and education?

SKIN

KEY PURCHASING QUESTIONS WHO IS SELLING/ BUYING THESE DEVICES? WHAT RESEARCH IS BEING DONE BY MANUFACTURERS/ ESTHETICIANS? WHERE IS THE DEVICE COMING FROM?

Alex R. Thiersch, J.D., is a Chicago health care attorney who represents medical spas, plastic surgeons, and esthetic medical professionals. He is the founder and director of the American Med Spa Association (AmSpa), which was created for the express purpose of providing comprehensive, relevant and timely legal and business resources for medical spas and medical esthetic physicians throughout the United States. For more information about becoming a member or to learn about AmSpa’s upcoming events, visit americanmedspa.org. Thiersch can be contacted at alex@americanmedspa.org.

MICRONEEDLING UPDATE

Louis “The Laser Guy” Silber man is CEO of the National Laser Institute, a national cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training, and owns medical spas in Scottsdale and Dallas. He is a motivational marketing speaker and the author of “Make It Happen Online”. Silberman created the sixth most visited health/beauty website and was a semifinalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014. Contact him at louis@nationallaserinstitute.com. S u sa n n e S . Wa rf i e ld , is President/CEO of Paramedical Consultants, Inc., a consulting, publishing and association management firm. She is a New York state licensed esthetician, is NCEA Certified, holds CIDESCO and ITEC diplomas, and has worked for more than 13 years in a dermatology practice. She has authored more than 450 articles and 15 books for the consumer, medical and skin care sectors. Warfield serves as executive director of the National Coalition of Estheticians, Manufacturers/Distributors & Associations (NCEA) and the Society of Dermatology SkinCare Specialists.

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HOW IS THE DEVICE REGISTERED/ APPROVED?

The bottom line is that there is always going to be the next latest and greatest treatment or procedure. Learning the technology, legally protecting yourself and asking the right questions before you buy will safeguard your long and successful esthetic career. 

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DECEMBER 2016

8 beauty

the hour

secret

WHY SKIN NEEDS SLEEP

DECEMBER 2016

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by Marizza Contreras

he treatment cabin is the ultimate confessional. Sins such as smoking and not drinking enough water are visible on the skin, but no client wants to admit the deadly skin sin of not getting enough sleep. Clients might be tempted to skimp on sleep to prolong waking hours for work, family or socializing. Their skin wears the telltale signs of tiredness in the form of wrinkles, worsening skin conditions and under-utilized products. Nighttime gives skin uninterrupted hours of repair and recovery time â&#x20AC;&#x201D; more so than during the day. Special care should be given to the nighttime regimen to maximize skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural healing time.

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SKIN

THE 8 HOUR BEAUTY SECRET

Regeneration The body works hard to regenerate its largest and most protective organ at night. During the 40 winks, bodies rejuvenate, detoxify and create protective reserves to process what has happened during the day. Tissue renews at a faster rate as the brain releases hormones for restoration and growth. During sleep, the body’s hydration levels rebalance and recover moisture, with excess water being processed for removal. Without enough sleep, mini breakdowns that occur during the day stay on the skin.

Hormones Skin spends the day fighting off UV radiation and free radicals present in toxic environmental elements in addition to its prime focus of stimulating adrenaline and corticosteroids, key hormones for survival. During sleep, skin goes into conservation mode because the adrenaline and corticosteroid levels drop and the body produces human growth hormone (HGH) when not disturbed. Microcirculation, or small blood vessel circulation, gets a boost during sleep. Any deprivation leads to a dry and lifeless complexion. When sleep is interrupted or insufficient, stress hormones increase, raising the chances of inflammation from lowered immunity in the form of acne, psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis including skin sensitivity.

Collagen Spending seven to eight hours in bed is not enough; the sleep must be uninterrupted to eliminate toxins. Part of the skin’s natural repair process is the manufacturing of collagen to combat the development of fine lines. Skin perkiness is directly related to the amount of this youthful protein found in our connective tissues, which is increasingly limited as we age. Skimping on even two hours of sleep negatively impacts collagen production, as the deficit creates rising levels of immune hormones whose first priority is not beauty, but survival. Ideally, cortisol and insulin, which aid

DECEMBER 2016

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Health in the production of collagen, hit peak rates during adequate sleep.

Moisture Skin uses moisture when we sleep. During sleep cycles the body flushes out toxins via sweat. While the perspiration is not enough to wake up drenched, the dehydration is considerable enough that skin needs a richer cream at night to make up for this water loss. If sleep is interrupted, skin appears drier with fine lines being more prominent. Additionally, skin recovers moisture during sleep and processes excess water for removal. If not given enough hours of sleep, skin demonstrates poor water balance with under eye circles and bags alongside dryness that highlights visible wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are skin care ingredients that draw water to the skin.

Lack of adequate sleep increases stress hormones that cause acne, psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis flare-ups in addition to skin sensitivity. The body’s largest protective organ regenerates soft tissues during sleep with help from a human growth hormone (HGH). Known as somatropin, the hormone is at its highest levels during sleep. Inflammatory cells increase when sleep is interrupted, resulting in a collagen and hyaluronic acid breakdown. With the five sleep stages, each lasting 90 minutes, skin initiates cell repair. Minor damage can be reversed overnight during the deeper phases of sleep.

Night Shift Considerations Skin’s permeability barrier is lowered during restful sleep. Active ingredients in skin care have a greater chance of penetrating the dermis at night. Hydration boosting ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate), sodium PCA, tehalose, Collaxyl™,

SKIN

Selling to Clients

ceramides, Lipegenine™ and seabuckthorn 2 aid in skin restoration. Anti-inflammatories and antioxidants, including resveratrol, astaxanthin, niacinamide, Pycnogenol, St. John’s Wort, Quintescine™, arnica, centella asiatica, calendula and chamomile function as skin healing agents and immunity boosters.

THE 8 HOUR BEAUTY SECRET

In order to keep clients consistent, create a routine that is simple and can be done in less than three minutes to avoid a daunting task before sleep. Proven multitaskers such as retinols can cut nocturnal skin care application time in half. Products can be SPF-free but should take hydration into consideration. Beauty sleep may not turn back the clock, but when partnered with the right products, it can be skin transforming. 

Nighttime cell communication is key and is aided by retinol and its derivatives such as melatonin, pentapeptides, adenosine, glycoproteins, minerals (magnesium, selenium, zinc) and carnosine. Venuceane™, lactobacillus ferment and yeast extract are probiotics that maintain the right flora levels. Essential fatty acids, GLA, various peptides, soy/silk/wheat proteins and amino acids are proteins that nourish the skin.

Minor damage can be reversed overnight during the deeper phases of sleep.

Marizza Contreras is the founder and owner of K’Alma by Miami City Massage, the first mobile spa in Miami, Fla. K’Alma by Miami City Massage was inspired by her experience and passion for hospitality. Contreras is a spa consultant and entrepreneur who specializes in branding and operational management of onsite spas for upscale hotel properties and outdoor spas in particular. She has become an industry leader and the authority in Miami for creating profitable hotel spas. Contact Marizza@miamicitymassage.net for more information.

Encourage clients to maximize the nocturnal physiological shifts for a hydrated, youthful glow they can wake up to each morning. The primary concern with suggesting a nighttime skin care routine is to stress makeup removal. A double cleanse may be suggested to first rid skin of sunscreen and makeup with a cleaner, while the second cleansing can utilize devices such as deep cleaning brushes to create a blank canvas for nighttime beauty.

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SKIN

BEYOND PARABEN FREE

photo by August_0802/Shutterstock.com

Understanding Preservatives While preservatives have advanced with modern science, the concept and usage of preservatives has existed for thousands of years. Humans have been preserving food to keep it fresh for taste, but more importantly out of necessity — they needed to preserve food to survive. A preservative can be a natural or synthetic ingredient. The word “preserve” means to maintain something in its original or existing state and that is essentially the goal of any preservative. The basic idea behind all forms of preservation is either to slow down the activity of disease-causing bacteria or to kill the bacteria altogether. Preservatives are added to products to prevent spoilage. This generally occurs as a result of microbial growth or other undesirable chemical changes in a formula, such as oxidation. The use of preservatives is essential in most

DECEMBER 2016

personal care products to prevent damage caused by these potential microorganisms and also to protect the product from inadvertent contamination by consumers.

Common Preservatives Parabens are among the most widely used preservatives in cosmetic formulations. According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), “the most common parabens used in cosmetic products are methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.” Phenoxyethanol is another popular preservative. It is a solvent in which parabens are added to create a broad spectrum preservative system. In fact, combining preservatives is a clever way that cosmetic chemists strike a balance between effectiveness and the ever-present threat of skin sensitization. Other frequently used preservatives found in shampoos

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and other rinse off cosmetics includes isothiazolinones, methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone. Food grade preservatives are sometimes used in personal care products and these include sorbic acid, benzoic acid and dehydroacetic acid.

History of Skin Care Preservatives So how did preservatives become an integral part of our everyday beauty regimen? It all started with having a beauty regimen in the first place. The first skin care products didn’t require preservatives due to their simple, oil based (often one ingredient) formulation. Not only did the Egyptians build the pyramids, they understood the need to protect skin before having any science-based understanding of the damage caused from UVA and UVB radiation. Their original sunscreen consisted of castor oil and rice bran. They combined these ingredients to

SKIN

create a protective balm and physical blocker against the sun. The Romans also cared about their appearance, and disliked wrinkles, freckles, sunspots and blemishes. They made skin creams out of beeswax, olive oil and rosewater. In addition to skin care concerns, the Romans used perfumes and makeup to smell and look their best. These are all products that now contain preservatives.

Rise to Power Since being first introduced in 1923, parabens became the goto preservative system for cosmetic chemists because they are odorless, colorless, tasteless and effective against a broad spectrum of contaminants, including yeasts, molds and bacteria. Parabens are also inexpensive and require low concentrations in formulas, resulting in fewer instances of irritation or significant skin reactions.

BEYOND PARABEN FREE

Negative Press and the European Union Ban The shift in thinking toward parabens began in 2004 when a now infamous study was published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology describing paraben-like substances found in breast cancer tissue. This started a chain of events and controversy that led the European Union to ban parabens in 2012 over fears they could increase the likelihood of breast cancer. Often overlooked, that same study demonstrated no scientifically valid link between parabens and breast cancer, nor did the study directly show parabens to be harmful in any other way.

The Reversal Parabens are not now entirely banned in the European Union as many still believe. In 2014, the European Commission announced a reversal that allows the use of

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DECEMBER 2016

SKIN

BEYOND PARABEN FREE

parabens in cosmetics while still restricting high percentage concentrations in leave-on products. The FDA also reaffirms the safety of parabens, clearly stating that “parabens have not been shown to be harmful as used in cosmetics, where they are present only in very small amounts.” Presently, parabens remain officially approved for use in cosmetics by many other regulatory bodies worldwide.

Consumer Research Many factors influence a consumer's decision whether to use products with parabens or those with alternative preservatives. The latest trend reports confirm consumers are shopping for products containing quality, safe ingredients — spa professionals continue to have an impact on this. Recent consumer data illustrates a continued shift toward natural, gluten-free and organic as well as an increasing trend toward anti-aging and overall wellness focused products. Along with avoiding parabens, consumers are also looking for products with no sulfates and no uric acids. Other trends to be aware of include: • • • • • • •

Alcohol Free Artificial Fragrances Free Formaldehyde Free Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Free Phenoxyethanol Free Petrochemicals Free Phthalate Free

Millennials and the Internet generation understand that what we consume and apply on our bodies impacts a lot more than just our skin. The trend toward the pure lifestyle is growing and the organic personal care industry is projected to exceed $16 billion by 2020.

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SKIN

BEYOND PARABEN FREE

The Truth The war against parabens is a classic case of real science getting lost and some fiction taking its place. Parabens have gained a negative reputation, but they are not toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic or sensitizing to human beings. Parabens have been used by chemists for almost 100 years and there have been more than 65 studies done by independent scientists showing no adverse effects from exposure to parabens. These studies are rigorous, and are conducted using much higher concentrations of parabens than those found in consumers’ purchase of personal care products.

Modern Alternatives While research and studies can be debated, consumer demand is forcing manufacturers to select alternative preservative systems to avoid any potential anti-paraben backlash. A more natural broad spectrum preservative that is gaining traction is fermented radish root. Whereas, phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative commonly used in place of parabens. The advantages of phenoxyethanol include its low cost,

but like parabens, phenoxyethanol is not without its own controversy.

How to Talk About Preservatives Be prepared to have a more in-depth discussion about parabens and preservatives with your clients; this can be a great way to share your knowledge and answer any questions. Keep in mind the need to have fruitful conversations in the interest of everyone involved. After all, retail sales should make up a significant portion of a spa’s gross revenue. Don’t scare your clients out of a potential purchase because of your personal bias.

A Winning Strategy – Catering to the Customer Your customers ultimately are happy if you offer products they want to buy. Examining the science of preservation with every client isn't always necessary. However, the next time someone asks if a product is paraben-free, use that opportunity to not only sell them the best products for their skin, but also to educate them about preservatives so they can go beyond paraben-free. 

AC and Justin D o t t e r w e i c h are t h e founders of ExPürtise®, and have previously held many consultative roles in the spa and wellness industry. They’re passionate about educating and empowering consumers to make smarter, healthier choices. For more information, visit expurtise.com, email info@expurtise.com or call 800.294.1154.

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DECEMBER 2016

BOOST LUMINOSITY

Sesderma’s new C-VIT formula is proof that even amazing skin care can be further perfected. Skin’s luminosity gets a boost with a moisturizing complex featuring ethyl ascorbic acid, ginkgo biloba extract, quercetin and pterostilbene. The new formulation provides advanced environmental protection for an unmistakable glow clients love. A natural and softer skin tone is the end result via the neutralization of free radicals. Nanotechnology enhances the process by protecting active ingredients from oxidation for a deeper penetration.

800.796.0996 sesdermausa.com

a new player in beauty The décolleté area has traditionally been perceived as a challenging area to treat. Not anymore. SiO launches the FIRST 24-hour system specifically developed to treat visible signs of aging that affect the neckline area with the patent-pending SiO SkinPad, Overnight Décolleté Wrinkle Smoother. Working through the night, this reparative solution is custom-designed with medical-grade silicone to hydrate, plump and rejuvenate skin in just eight hours.

flawless from every angle

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SkinNews

ExPürtise’s Effective Anti-Aging Self Mask makes skin flawless from every angle. White kaolin clay softens skin while licorice and bearberry leaf extracts naturally brighten. Hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, cucumber extract, green algae and red seaweed extract combine to create the end result of hydrating exfoliation that is perfectly pH balanced for all skin types.

800.294.1154 expurtise.com

behind the veil

Imagine a product that both male and female clients will love. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Inc.’s Vitamin Veil Cleanser bridges both genders with an amazing skin care product that continuously nourishes the skin while also being tough enough to remove stubborn eye makeup or provide an alternative to shaving cream for a hydrating shave. The unique soybean oil-based, non-foaming cleanser removes makeup and impurities, but that is not all. A “veil” of antioxidants remains to consistently nourish the skin. Ideal for dry, mature, sensitive, rosacea prone and post-procedure skin.

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Services

NAUTILUS SPA

MIAMI BEACH, FLA. by Amanda Clinton Winter he spa industry is constantly evolving and business models are changing with the past being harvested for workable strategies. Vintage meets the future at the Nautilus Hotel, located on the world famous Collins Avenue in the heart of the Art Deco hotel district of Miami Beach. The design pays homage to famed architect Morris Lapidusâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; mid-century design with its singular beach house luxury, but a quiet revolution is happening within the unstructured walls.

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SPA OF THE MONTH

pa services are contracted out to an exclusive mobile spa with an excellent reputation. Each property has its own soul and rather than a standard space with set treatment cabins, the spa at Nautilus is comprised of one couples’ treatment room and three spa cabanas to harness the delight of the salt water pool with oceanfront views and breezes.

CONNECTION Guests are greeted in spectacular fashion with a welcome ritual infused with flowers. They are encouraged to choose from a selection of organic teas made with nature’s visual gifts. In keeping with the organic theme and celebrating the abundance of nature from the first moment guests enter the spa, all treatments feature organic ingredients from the Caribbean. Guests are sent digital questionnaires beforehand via email to assess their treatment goals and gain insight into their lifestyles so the spa can meet their needs. The spiritual element is as gentle as the ocean waves. Guests are asked not to bring their devices into the treatment areas as part of a soothing and re-centering digital detox. The intention to inspire wellness is demonstrated when therapists put their hands on the heart of their client as well as their own while saying a prayer for connection.

TRAINING Spa Director Marizza Contreras is adamant that, “if you are not constantly training, then you are not moving forward at all.” This sentiment is echoed by staff members. Recent additions to the team are trained by seasoned pros in the protocols and the art of ingredients. One applicable adjective for

DECEMBER 2016

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SPA

training is dedication. The staff sets their intentions every day to inspire both guests and each other. Contreras describes inspiration as a reflection of performance. Nautilus trains their team to adopt the philosophy that a good massage can change a guest’s week.

SIGNATURE TREATMENT Guests come to the Nautilus for spa treatments to indulge in a type of healing that can only be provided by a tropical paradise. The Nautilus Massage is not only the most popular treatment but also the signature treatment at the Nautilus. One key component is the jojoba oil that has been meticulously sourced from the Caribbean, which quickly absorbs into the skin without clogging pores. Sea algae nourishes the skin and brings a touch of the ocean to the treatment, which can be used in deep tissue,

SPA OF THE MONTH

HOTEL SPA TAKEAWAY TIP! Place a spa menu in guest welcome packets, and ensure the spa has prominent positioning on the property’s website. Consider giving complimentary treatments to all hotel staff members so they are knowledgeable about the offerings and can rave to guests about the amazing treatment they experienced. This type of exposure creates conversation and is an excellent combination of word-of-mouth and grass roots marketing for enhancing revenue generation opportunities.

TEAM The Nautilus Spa team is unified, an attribute of highly successful teams that deliver results. The spa’s vision is shared with every team member, each one recognized for their unique strengths. The majority of Contreras’ team has been with her for more than a decade, a testament to her leadership style of always nurturing and celebrating her employees. “We have quarterly celebrations for employees who have won retail contests or have received stellar reviews,” says Contreras. “We are a team and need to nourish one another.” The staff congregates every week for a meeting to review hotel guest statistics, such as the number of check ins or upcoming conferences to ensure all needs are met. Listening to feedback from both clients and staff is also key to retention. It is important to allow employees to feel valued as key players in building up the spa.

REVOLUTION in PRACTICE Swedish, aromatherapy or sports movement techniques. Green tea rounds out the trio of specialized ingredients to bring wellness via its antioxidant benefits. The singular feature of this treatment is that all three soothing and nourishing ingredients are delivered to the skin via naturally heated lava shells for a touch of tropical decadence.

MARKETING Nautilus is not open to the public except during Miami Spa Month in the summer. All marketing is done through the hotel website and their social media channels. The spa coordinator mingles with hotel guests and promotes the spa menu on a grass roots level. Exposure throughout the hotel is key.

Nautilus contracts their spa services to a consulting group that has their own staff. They are a trendsetter in the changing market, as mobile spas are becoming hot commodities in the spa industry. Rather than a traditional spa, businesses can outsource their spa services to contractors who then work within a set space. This innovation has become more popular in recent years as brick and mortars are less expected and more limited by either space or monetary resources. Businesses can increase their revenue stream and generate incredible ROI from this concept. Hotels are ideal as they have a steady stream of warm leads. Also, guests want to explore new concepts and welcome the opportunity to be adventurous.

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SPA OF THE MONTH

STARTING POINTS In order to successfully contract out spa services, mobile spas must be well– managed. Ask for referrals and read online reviews to create a list of possible candidates for outsourcing. Hotels that do not have a spa would be an ideal starting point for mobile spas seeking clients. When exploring options, consider the high service standards hotel guests expect, and tailor offerings to target markets. Tropical locales can offer sun care options, for example, while ski resorts can offer post-sport therapies for sore muscles. 

Amanda Clinton Winter is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

SPA DIRECTOR SPOTLIGHT Marizza Contreras founded Miami City Massage in 2004. This represented the first mobile spa in Miami, securing her status as a pioneer in the now increasingly popular concept. Contreras was inspired by her experience and passion for hospitality to create this business. A spa consultant and entrepreneur, she specializes in branding and operational management of onsite spas for upscale hotel properties, with a particular emphasis on outdoor spas. Contreras has become an industry leader and highly respected authority in Miami for creating profitable hotel spas.

RUNDOWN 1825 COLLINS AVE MIAMI BEACH, FLA. 33139 LAUNCH DATE: December 2015 SPA AND WELLNESS DIRECTOR: Marizza Contreras STAFF TO GUEST RATIO: 1:1 AMENITIES: 1 indoor couples room 3 spa cabanas in the pool area 1 pool CLIENT COMPOSITION: 50 percent male, 50 percent female SIGNATURE TREATMENT: Nautilus Massage RETAIL LINES: Bungalow 33 and Carmel Cosmetics

DECEMBER 2016

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Miami Recap 2016

to the Hyatt Regency Hotel! The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa MIAMI, 2016 38

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The Hyatt Regency Hotel in Downtown Miami was home to thousands of spa industry professionals on November 6th and 7th. Spa directors, spa owners, estheticians, dermatologists and medical spa professionals gathered alongside the Miami River to showcase new products, combine new techniques and discuss the latest innovations. The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is an INSPIRING two days of bringing together like-minded professionals in a friendly, intimate atmosphere. Attendees, exhibitors and speakers linked together to discuss the art of REINVENTION, taking their years of experience and igniting a NEW spark of enthusiasm to drive GROWTH and SUCCESS.

The 2016 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, MIAMI began with Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner, licensed esthetician/cosmetologist, lighting up the Main Stage both Sunday and Monday morning with a quick, uplifting Opening Ceremony centered on REINVENTING yourself and your business. Spreading encouragement with every word, D’Allaird-Brenner gave each attendee the SPARK to inspire a new chapter in their career. On Sunday, Main Stage presentations consisted of a vitality-boosting breathing exercise led by EuGene Gant, an informational lecture on treating hyperpigmentation with Dr. Purvisha Patel, a designer fa-

cial demonstration by Bella Schneider, an intriguing lecture led by Manon Pilon regarding the latest medical spa technologies and an exciting facial demonstration of the new generation of peels by Sonia Boghosian. Monday’s Main Stage presentations revealed the truth behind peptides, growth factors and stem cells in a lecture by Dr. Marc A. Ronert, a face demonstration explaining the universal anti-aging secret with Janel Luu, the mindset of love regarding the new way to do business with Bryan Reeves and the unveiling of the secret to Kao No Rinpa Japanese lymphatic body treatments by Anabel De La Vega.

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Miami Recap 2016

A w h i r l i n g b a l l o f E N E R G Y, STRENGTH and WISDOM fueled the Exhibitor Floor as speakers, exhibitors and attendees came together to share their knowledge on all things skin care, spa and wellness. Intimate and interactive demonstrations, conferences and product training classes focused on every aspect of the industry. Skin care therapists, massage therapists, estheticians, dermatologists and medical spa specialists fused ideas and concepts to create a community of like-minded professionals who were able to ignite positivity within each other. Eileen Ramon, owner of Magic City Spa in Homestead, Fla., said, “The spa industry is so exciting and diverse that coming to the Congress just reinforces how building a professional network and being open to learn can make success possible… and fun!” Janice Winston, head esthetician at Tranquility Spa in Tampa, Fla., stated, “It was truly inspiring to see so many professionals in the industry taking the time to build a future for their careers!” Director of Grand Bliss Spa in Navarre, Fla., Linda Green, spoke about her experience at the show, “I have been a part of this show for several years. Each year is more exciting than the last. I always look forward to the Congress because of the opportunity to branch out of my comfort zone and learn new techniques!” Emily Matheson, owner of Getaway Spa in Savannah, Ga., stated, “The Miami Congress was a HUGE success! Two incredibly inspiring days!” An AMAZING lineup of the industry’s TOP leaders and experts led lectures, demonstrations and conferences discussing topics such as Revenue Growth, Customer Care, Hyperpigmentation, Marketing, Social Media, Mindful Biz, Wellness, Makeup and Love. The most EXCITING and INNOVATIVE treatments and techniques were revealed through intimate, personal, one-one-one experi-

DECEMBER 2016

ences customized for each aspect of the skin care, spa and wellness industry. Attendees received nothing but the BEST from professionals who offered their insights. Director of Key Spa in Islamorada, Fla., Celeste Cohnners, spoke about her experience at the show, “I love being here! I feel that every session and demonstration with experts brings me closer to building my network and making my business thrive.” Stacie Noman, head esthetician at Genesis Spa in Birmingham, Ala., said, “Extremely informative! I learned so much in such a short weekend. The classes were educational and enlightening!” Michelle Stewart, Director of Spa at Nobu Eden Roc located in Miami Beach, expressed her excitement, “What an incredible experience! The atmosphere was beautiful, inviting

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and educational. An overall amazing experience!” Product Focused Training sessions concentrated on meshing technology with beauty and wellness. Spa industry experts ignited a SPARK within attendees, motivating them to REINVENT their businesses with innovative technologies and exclusive information that they received in these intimate training sessions. Kayla Millers, medical spa professional at Touch MedSpa located in Lexington, S.C., mentioned, “I have been so hesitant to implement new technology into my practice, but the training classes made everything so simple. I no longer have to rely on just the basics.” Owner of Lee Lou Spa in downtown Miami, Betsy Jullienne, stated, “The industry’s latest products,

Miami Recap 2016

techniques and education… everything was at my fingertips!” Dermatologist at the Dermatology Center in Jacksonville, Fla., Amy Ruiz, spoke about her experience, saying, “These classes were incredible. I cannot wait to take what I learned and apply it to how I help my clients every single day. This show was the perfect place for new business ideas and techniques!”

Exhibitors covered the floor with their latest and HOTTEST products, engaging with attendees and guiding them on their own paths to success.

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa presented an exclusive two-day opportunity for attendees to REINVENT the services they provide for their clients while NETWORKING with experts in the industry. Exhibitors, speakers and attendees came TOGETHER to share their passions for the skin care, spa and wellness industry and inspired GREATNESS in each other as well as within themselves.

SEE YOU NEXT YEAR AT THE HYATT REGENCY HOTEL

OCT • 22 & 23 2017

Gina Preziosa, Vice President of Shankara located in Uvalde, Texas, expressed her thoughts on the Congress: “Amazing energy at this show! Tons of interest in the industry and truly a great experience!” Fred Fouassier, CEO and co-founder of Rejuvasea of Spain, stated, “Great experience and a great opportunity to network and connect with professionals in the industry.” Donna Davidson, executive of Derme & Co. based in Saint-Laurent, Quebec, said, “Very intimate atmosphere. The Exhibitor Floor was beautiful, and was very shopping-oriented for industry professionals.” Manager of Skinade based in Chantilly, Va., Emma Clothier, said, “The perfect place for business owners in the industry. A great opportunity to network with international attendees and an overall great atmosphere.” Bella Schneider, owner of Bella Schneider Beauty LLC based in Palo Alto, Calif., said, “Always a pleasure to attend this show. We love the opportunity to touch base with existing clients as well as connect with new ones.”

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spas

MENOPAUSE HOW TO CREATE A MIDLIFE SANCTUARY FOR YOUR MENOPAUSAL CLIENTS by Jacqueline Kleis

enopause is a well-known biological change that typically occurs in women between the ages of 45 and 55. During this time, the reproductive system starts cutting back on egg production in a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ovaries and menstruation starts to falter until it eventually disappears. After 12 months of this absence, a woman is considered to enter menopause. During this time, fluctuations in the levels of estrogen and progesterone cause many physical and psychological changes. Hot flashes, dry skin, sleep disturbances, hair thinning, fluid retention and heart palpitations are some of the undesirable physical issues women face during this time. The most common emotional and cognitive changes are anxiety, depression, mood swings, forgetfulness and a feeling of losing control. For many women, menopause is a crucial time to attend to their emotional health. Others are focused on diminishing the physical symptoms that come with it. Yet some need to tend to both the emotional and physical symptoms of this inevitable passage.

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SPAS & MENOPAUSE

his multi-stage rite of passage is a lengthy and irritable transitional journey that lasts for many years of a woman’s life, and has an impact on those around her as well. Hence, it is essential for the spa and wellness industry to offer remedies for menopausal women that ease the discomforts of this condition that affect their physical and psychological well-being.

THE POWER

OF TOUCH According to the North American Menopause Society, many women going through this midlife condition find relief for their symptoms using alternative methods, including massage therapy. Although women are sensitive to touch during menopause, massage can be a satisfying way to calm their nerves and provide therapeutic benefits for their physical and emotional symptoms. Some massage therapists now customize treatment recommendations specifically for menopausal women, targeting their therapy to meet the client’s unique needs during this uncomfortable time. The Touch Research Institute at the University of Miami, Miller School of Medicine is devoted to the study of touch therapy and its numerous effects on health and well-being. Studies published by the Institute demonstrate that touch decreases stress hormones, anxiety and depression, and leads to an overall improvement in mood. Touch also communicates a sense of caring, a powerful emotional tool that buffers the anxiety characteristic of menopause. Thus, the nurturing touch of massage therapy offers important physical and psychological tools for menopausal women. A massage treatment can also provide a reflective time for women to evaluate their lives and the importance of their emotional health. Two traditional yet highly effective methods of massage that work well for meno-

DECEMBER 2016

pausal women are Swedish massage and reflexology. -SWEDISH MASSAGE Swedish massage is the recommended massage treatment for menopausal women at Unique U Salon & Day Spa in Lorton, Va., and for good reason. The long, soft strokes of Swedish massage enhance relaxation and reduce muscle tension. These two effects reduce cortisol, a stress hormone that is

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highly activated during midlife. Another advantage to Swedish massage is its ability to improve sleep, thus combatting the common irritating menopausal symptom of insomnia. Lack of sleep can magnify menopausal symptoms, as it causes fatigue and increases levels of anxiety. Getting adequate sleep, on the other hand, regenerates cells and repairs the mind. “Menopause is all about emotions and many customers do not know why

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they feel anxious,” says Jane Wong, massage therapist at Unique U. “We concentrate on face-down massage with an emphasis on the spine, the center of the nervous system. You must speak very softly and help them relax during a massage and make them feel very comfortable. It is all about touch.” -REFLEXOLOGY Experts also point to reflexology as a type of massage therapy that addresses the hormonal imbalances experienced by a menopausal woman, returning equilibrium to the body by targeting pressure points. Working the points of the pituitary, thyroid and reproductive system allows levels of anxiety, depression, insomnia, night sweats and hot flashes to diminish. Since the effects are cumulative in reflexology treatment, continuity is important for at least two to three months for noticeable results.

sage can be a good way to reinforce a relationship and to enjoy time together with a partner. It’s not uncommon for women in menopause to experience sexual changes during menopause, and she may enjoy the shared relaxation of a couple’s massage.”

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-COUPLES THERAPY Athena Salon, Spa & Wellness in Windsor, Colo., suggests recommending couples’ massages for menopausal clients as well. “Scheduling massages is a good way to manage some of the symptoms of menopause,” says a representative of the spa. “A couple’s mas-

AROMATHERAPY

AND TOPICALS Therapists can also incorporate aromatherapy treatments with oils tailored to their clients’ specific needs. Wong explains how Unique U caters to meno-

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DIAMONDTOME THE NEXT GENERATION

CONTINUING THE EVOLUTION OF SKIN RESURFACING, ALTAIR INSTRUMENTS IS PROUD TO INTRODUCE THE NEXT GENERATION IN CRYSTAL FREE MICRODERMABRASION. USING THE HYDROPLUS TECHNIQUE COMBINES DRY EXFOLIATION FOLLOWED BY SERUM INFUSION TO CREATE THE MOST EFFECTIVE SKIN REJUVENATION TREATMENT.

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pausal clients with oils: “Essential oils are sometimes used, such as peppermint and rosemary for those clients needing an exciting boost, whereas lavender for the ones needing comfort,” she says. Indeed, lavender, geranium or clary sage mixed with a natural oil carrier such as coconut is perfect for clients who want to ease stress. Peppermint and rosemary, on the other hand, are great choices to help clients feel invigorated and refreshed. For body treatments such as wraps and scrubs, menopausal clients will benefit most from moisturizing topicals. Organic ingredients such as volcanic clay, ancient grains, seaweed and grated coconut are all great choices to restore moisture to a menopausal woman’s dry skin.

AYURVEDA Customization is vital in the ancient holistic healing system of Ayurveda that seeks to achieve health and well-

ness through the perfect balance of the mind, body and spirit. A variety of menopausal symptoms can be attributed to a lack of balance, making an Ayurvedic approach a smart way to address these issues. The Raj in Fairfield, Iowa, is a spa dedicated to the practice of Ayurveda. Here, each individual’s health is assessed as part of the customization process. The consultation begins with a questionnaire and is followed by a session with the Ayurveda Health Consultant. An assessment is completed and an appropriate program is designed for the client. A sample program includes massage with herbal oils tailored to the individual and their specific imbalances. Through the motion of massage, enhancement of circulation begins the cleansing of impurities that contribute to the irritable symptoms of menopause. Tailored therapeutic treatments in the spa can be a great remedy for menopausal women facing bothersome symptoms. Incorporating na-

ture’s bounty in the form of aromas and essential oils with the caring nature of the massage therapist’s magical hands not only provides relief but also leaves her with positive encouragement to handle her symptoms. She can come out feeling relaxed and reassured, knowing she is taking control of her well-being. Customized massage allows a woman to appreciate her beauty, health, wellness and power during this mid-life journey. 

Jacqueline Kleis is a creative freelance writer with experience in the health, beauty and culinary fields. She is an entrepreneur with extensive experience in the hospitality industry and a strong advocate of health and wellness. Kleis has a B.A. from Brown University where she concentrated in French language, civilization and culture. Born and raised in Puerto Rico, she has lived and traveled in Europe, the Caribbean and the United States. Kleis currently resides in Miami, Fla.

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Where nature meets science

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Svelta’s Prickly Pear & Squalane Antioxidant Body Serum is a combination of prickly pear, squalane oil, watermelon seed oil and argan oil. The ancient, holistic wisdom of this handcrafted recipe has been passed down using only the most luxurious and purest ingredients to ensure supple skin. Prickly pear is harvested from cacti that flourish in extreme temperatures. Squalane is derived from nourishing olives while watermelon seed oil fights free radicals as well as environmental oxidizing agents. Skin gets a boost of natural hydration with argan oil’s high vitamin E content and essential fatty acids.

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Wow the skin on the body with Trilipiderm® Ultra-Hydrating All-Body Oil. Supple skin gives clients a youthful appearance with a proprietary Medasynnian™ Lipid Complex (meadowfoam and abyssinian oils) and a potent combination of antioxidant-rich vitamins A, C and E, alongside a nourishing blend of olive-derived squalane. After careful years of research and development, Trilipiderm presents just the product to end dry skin for good with 100 percent natural plant derivatives in a light, non-greasy formula.

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Sight, smell and touch... these are just some of the senses that Kerstin Florian’s Mineral Wellness Soak with Eucalyptus in Collectible Glass delights. Winter is quickly approaching and the need for an aromatic treatment to soothe sore muscles while softening skin is a must. Delighting with a natural eucalyptus essence, clients will love the look of the elegant Mason jar as their winter skin magically disappears with each stroke.

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Good enough to eat! Farmhouse Fresh’s Shea Butter Collection has two amazing additions with the Coconut Cream, coconut paired with tonka bean, and Citrine Beach, a blend of lime with coconut and rum. The classic Front Porch Punch, with its popular sangria-like fragrance, is repackaged in vintage paper and tied with hemp string for a look that evokes long summer day refreshment. Clients will enjoy the 97 percent natural soaps that offer hydration and nourishment with mouth watering flavors to improve skin’s elasticity. Amazing times three!

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BEHIND THE SPA DOOR David Neddam

with Spa Director of Heed Spa, Miami Beach, Fla.

A New Name in Green Philosophy

Concept How do you define the concept of your spa? We are an urban sanctuary offering organic therapeutic spa treatments to restore and detoxify the body.

Facility How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there? We have four treatment rooms, a jet soak bath and a Vichy shower.

Leadership Role What would you say are your biggest challenges? A big challenge is staying consistent with the lifestyle. We are here to heal bodies as well as love them. We are promoting a green, organic lifestyle and our mission is to change mindsets.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? Conversation is a great stress reliever. We end each day with a conversation with the owner to release all aspects of the day. Talks are great opportunities to center oneself.

What takes most of your time every day? Every day is different. We were just in the midst of changing our name and doing a relaunch/grand opening. We have been busy getting the word out on this change.

Team Building How many employees do you have and what are their specialties? We have five employees. Three are massage therapists, one is a cosmetologist and one is a full-time specialist who does facials, nails and waxing. I

DECEMBER 2016

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am an Osteopath in France as well as the spa director here.

How do you select the people who work with you? During the interview we inquire how much of their lifestyle they are willing to change. A green, organic lifestyle is not an employment requirement. However, we prefer that our staff partake in the culture we are promoting with wellness and pure products. As long as candidates are open to change, we are willing to take them aboard in addition to having great references and experience. passionate about our products and the lifestyle as we are.

How do you evaluate employees? What makes an employee stand out as a star?

Where is the retail area located and what is its surface area compared Heed Spa is huge on train- to the rest of the spa? ing and education. A star em- Heed Spa is 1,800 square feet, ployee seeks knowledge and and 150 square feet of that guidance by asking questions. space is dedicated to retail. The space is located next to the register. We offer a selection of 150 products to heal the body and promote wellness. What are your

Retail

retail goals? We sell via education. We have discussions with clients about which products heal. Our goal is to increase by 20 percent next year and to sell at least $20,000 worth of products.

Marketing and Publicity What can you tell us about your marketing techniques?

Our spa is extremely niche as a sanctuary of urban wellness. Those who are part of the orWhat incentives do ganic lifestyle seek us so we you have for your staff focus on giving our guests to reach these goals? Staff earns 10 percent of what a memorable experience to they sell on commission. Our generate excellent word-ofmission is to educate first and mouth. We focus on Yelp, then products sell themselves. Google and Trip Advisor. We Our style is not corporate, as are located on Miami Beach so we want our clients to be as we have locals and also tour-

ists who want to visit a boutique organic spa.

Exceptional Client Care How do you keep clients loyal? Clients are loyal when they are provided with the best services and treatments. We build brand loyalty with each appointment and treatment. Everything, from who we hire to the products used to the carrying out of our wellness philosophy, is to create a spa experience unlike any other.

to how this applies to them. Maybe they can only make a few changes, but we always offer support to do more. The best advice is to create a twoway conversation.

What advice could you give someone who would like to manage a spa? Education is key to running a successful spa. Stay on top of what is going on in the industry as well as trends. Always be ready to skillfully answer questions from clients and position yourself as an expert.

Insiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Scoop What are the most important lessons you have learned from failures or challenges that you can share with others in your career path? Part of brand loyalty is creating a conversation with clients. We educate them on the organic lifestyle and we listen

We want to he ar from YOU!

Share your insider tips on runn ing a succes sful practice with us , and you may be featured in an upcoming editio n of Les Nouvell es EsthĂŠtiques & Spa. Simply se nd an email to amanda@LNE online.com (50 to 100 words). To gether, let's bu ild a community on e word at a tim e!

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DECEMBER 2016

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LIGHTS, CAMERA, VIDEO CONTENT TO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS THE POWER OF VIDEO The excitingly active and fascinated mind of this generation is inevitably attracted to the constantly updated world of social media. Social media has not only profoundly changed the way people communicate with family and friends, but also the way businesses interact with consumers and potential clients. More specifically, the increasing popularity of online video content has revamped business’ marketing strategies, boosted consumer engagement and created a pathway for businesses to connect with their audiences on a professional level through moving pictures. Video content can transform your social media into a dynamic, interactive source of information and entertainment. The reason behind this is simple — people respond better to a story told through video than any other type of online content. Let’s take a closer look at how to create a video and use it to its full potential on your social media accounts.

by Kristina Mazzenga

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DECEMBER 2016

BUSINESS

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!

Quick Tips For A Successful Video • Keep your video under five minutes. This ensures that it is straight to the point and easy to watch quickly. • Choose ONE objective for your video. Whether it is to interview a client or demonstrate a product, having one specific goal will ensure that viewers are not confused or overwhelmed. • Be ACTIVE! Your entire video should be engaging and exciting to watch. Make sure you are constantly speaking or demonstrating to keep your viewers entertained!

CREATING THE VIDEO Online video can bring your social media to life, and does not need to be a daunting task requiring a professional crew and big investment. Professionals can produce sophisticated, polished videos at little to no cost. This may be a worthwhile investment for high profile projects, but with a little time and effort you can get great results by doing it from your smart phone as well. Viddy is a free, downloadable smart phone app that allows you to add filters and soundtracks to your already recorded video. This app enables you to "beautify" your video in just a few clicks and easily share your completed project through Facebook, Twitter and other social media accounts. The biggest time investment when using video content for social media is the editing afterward. There are many services that make it easy to create, edit and share video content. For instance, if

DECEMBER 2016

you are a Microsoft user, Windows Movie Maker is a great program that allows you to cut, reorder and add effects to your videos. It is included with various versions of Windows computers or can be downloaded for free. If you have a Mac, iMovie, a free downloadable program, allows you to combine unlimited recorded clips and edit them together to create videos that can easily be shared via social media. EXTRA TIPS FOR RECORDING VIDEO • Film as much as you can exactly the way you want it to avoid spending hours on postproduction work. • Record your video in one clip and be sure to only capture what you intend to capture. (Editing video is extremely important to ensure that your viewers are enticed and educated while watching your video.)

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BUSINESS

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!

• Remain close enough to your subject for good quality sound, and be sure the setting of your video is well lit and appealing to whoever your audience may be.

ANSWERING THE QUESTION The difficult part of filming video content is answering the question: What should my video be about? The content you feature in your video depends on your specific business as well as the services or products you offer. Here are some quick ideas on what YOU can feature in your video content. • Answer questions. In any business, you are likely to get asked the same questions by different customers. If your business has a product or service to sell, using video to effectively answer those most common questions can not only promote your business, but also answer those questions in a more engaging and shareable way. • Create an “unboxing” situation. Unboxing is a popular way to experience a product without buying it. In an unboxing video, someone simply films himself or herself unpacking a product so you can see the packaging, what comes in the box and virtually watch the experience you might have if you did purchase the product. Although it is better suited to tangible products instead of services, the concept could be extended to services as well. • Do an office tour. While it may seem irrelevant, simply allowing potential customers to have a virtual look around your office can encourage them to see you as a real business with real people instead of a yellow page ad or a static website. • Interview your best customer. Not all consumers may be willing to talk on camera, but if you have a particularly good relationship with a certain customer, ask them if they would be willing to talk with you in a short video to share what they like about your business and why they might recommend you. • Demonstrate your product or service. Show how your product works or demonstrate the thinking behind your services in action. Ideally, capture something that you already do every day… just on video!

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS? Now you may be thinking… "Wow, Facebook LIVE and Periscope require much less time and commitment!" Yes, these services are simple and efficient and do not require editing or postproduction, but taking the time to design, create and edit a video is just as imperative to acquiring engagement on your social media channels.

DECEMBER 2016

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Video editing allows you to add a personal touch to your online video content. While broadcasting LIVE gives you the freedom to interact with followers in real time, editing prerecorded videos gives you the opportunity to add a spark to your content to attract viewers through edits such as transitions, sound effects, logos and colors. Editing your videos prior to posting them to social media also ensures that you are posting good quality content. With Facebook LIVE and Periscope, an Internet connection is required, which may result in viewers missing out on important information because of a poor connection. Taking the time to record and edit your own video guarantees excellent video quality and easily gives viewers something to refer back to when shared on your social media accounts. Creating and stylizing your own video for social media is KEY to attracting consumers and sharing a piece of what your business has to offer with them. Recording and editing video gives you the opportunity to entice the alwaysracing minds of this generation while showcasing your professional products and services through images and moving pictures. 

Kristina Mazzenga received her bachelor's degree in Social Media Marketing and Broadcasting from Saint Vincent College in Latrobe, Penn. Her computer and cell phone are attached to her hip as she is obsessed with spreading the word! Her passion became her profession. She is now the Editorial Assistant & Social Media Partner for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine.

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Correcting and preventing challenges in the spa by Tina Abnoosi There is a saying in business that people donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t buy vitamins, they buy sedatives. The painful truth is that many are more interested in high stakes solutions than taking preventative steps. When your business is showing signs of frailty, it is important to take immediate action to redirect and avoid the risk of failure.

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DECEMBER 2016

BUSINESS

IS YOUR SPA HEALTHY?

The signs of distress typically show up 12 months prior to shut down. One of the early stage difficulties is demonstrated in a lack of re-booking. Other subsequent signs are lack of inventory, past due bills and payroll. If preventative actions are taken immediately, most spas can recover. Time will be of the essence in solving the issues and removing the obstacles and properly recouping the investment. In pursuit of finding the proper solution and implementing businesssaving strategies one must research all the crucial pieces of their business. Understand the true state of their position and identify the root of the problem. Be prepared to face the findings and repair the weaknesses, revisit poor decisions, discard bad habits and correct extrinsic factors.

DECEMBER 2016

One quick fix that many have employed is offering deep discounts of the services they offer. This may help in the short term but in the long term the issues are still unresolved and standing.

Unique Selling Proposition Every successful business serves a niche in their area. It is best to scope out spas within a 10-mile radius and familiarize yourself with treatments, products and purported results. The beauty industry is highly competitive, and to stand out and be successful you must elevate your services from the rest.

SWOT When preparing your business plan, care must be taken to assess your strengths, weaknesses, opportunities

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Repair the weaknesses, revisit poor decisions, discard bad habits and correct extrinsic factors.

BUSINESS

and threats (SWOT). Strengths outline what you feel most comfortable with, such as customer service or a special treatment technique. High employee turnover or a poor location can be viewed as weaknesses. Opportunities can include local demographics, affordable rates or offering a highly soughtafter ingredient. Threats could be a strong competitor or insufficiently trained or disrespectful employees.

Inside Job Competition is the spice of business and will keep you truthful to yourself and your client. Be realistic about who your rivals are and do your research. Get to know their operations and their menu. How does your spa compare in terms of service, skills, location, marketing, price, loyalty and staying ahead of trends? You may want to network with local estheticians and find ways to help each other grow by building a referral program for your clients to receive the best treatment to meet their needs. This will help you change the culture of predatory pricing. Take the good, the bad and the ugly without too much emotion and seek ways to improve.

Segmentation To reach your target audience, you must first know who they are and what they like via a process called segmentation. Segmentation is a marketing strategy that divides a broad market into subsets of people with shared needs and interests. The objective is to design a marketing mix that precisely matches the expectations of customers in the targeted segment. Be fully aware of how to segment your target audience. Be realistic and don’t assume that all people from all walks of life will purchase your product or service simply because it is being offered. Pricing, customer care, segmentation and inventory management collectively aid in the return of your investment. For optimal marketing, target and segment your viewers and don’t try to appeal to everyone, as you may be

IS YOUR SPA HEALTHY?

disappointed to find out that nobody is satisfied. Reviews and geographic locations add authority to your advertising and further segment traffic.

Retail Retail is the lifeblood of spas. Rather than relying solely on income from treatments, spas can generate 60 to 80 percent revenue by offering the right products. The question is whether your business is maximizing its selling power. Procedures should be solidified to ensure ease of purchasing. Concentrate on your client’s first impression as it should be welcoming, and the consultation process must be thorough and positive. Product recommendations should be well within the client’s budget. It is beneficial to finalize sales in a timely manner and follow through with a post-sale call or email.

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DECEMBER 2016

BUSINESS

IS YOUR SPA HEALTHY?

Customer Service

performance indicators (KPIs) should be measurable and consistent.

Spas are wellness sanctuaries for many clients. Therapists are healers and their approach with their client shapes the entire reputation of a business. Training the staff to value the client with respect and carry your vision through daily chores sets the right tone for your business.

Quality Control Quality control is essential to any successful business, as it can be used as a communication tool by administration and employees to maintain high standards. Every business, despite the size of its operation, should have a set of policies, procedures and a systems manual. Policies should be reasonable and enforceable. For example, if staff is required to wear a uniform, a detailed expectation for a cohesive esthetic as well as consequences for noncompliance must be prepared and distributed. Keep in mind that key

DECEMBER 2016

Support Support your staff by offering ongoing training, as profit building is a continuous process and must be taken seriously. Teams should be supported via rewards and given all the necessary tools to be successful. Some companies hold training retreats, while others have guest speakers come in to boost morale. Provide your staff an outlet (marketing falls under this category) to showcase their education advancements and skills. This shows your appreciation of their growth and accomplishments.

Plan Before your spa took shape, a business plan was used as a blueprint that attracted your investors and set guidelines. A common mistake is that most owners and investors do not return to the document after the initial phase is completed. Your

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business plan should be a living document; and it should be modified as you grow. It is relevant at all stages of the entrepreneurial endeavor, particularly with financials. It can maintain and guide you through new directions, technologies, products, an avenue for business growth, methods, procedures for operation and management infrastructure. Set your goals, assert your inner peace and implement preventative measures to reduce conflict and maintain a healthy environment for your business to grow. ď Ž

Tina Abnoosi is the passionate and vibrant president of TAMA Research Corporation. She is an electrical engineer with more than 30 years of experience in the design and manufacturing of electrical and electronic components. A recently licensed esthetician, she has more than 10 years of experience with microcurrent equipment, treatments, and techniques. She continuously develops new procedures to provide alternative methods for staying youthful.

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DECEMBER 2016

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What is

your Clients' The Key to BoostING Revenue by Donna Dodier

he spa is a multi-sensory haven for beauty, relaxation and stress relief. It offers the promise of disconnection from the outer world of chaos, anxiety and overload. We build a business to welcome those who trust us to deliver the services and treatments with the utmost professionalism. There can be issues your guests may experience that never come to your attention simply because most managers and owners are working “on” the business and not “in” the business. Although there are many factors that impact the success or decline of your business, the most important may be the client's perspective.

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DECEMBER 2016

BUSINESS

WHAT IS YOUR CLIENTS' PERSPECTIVE?

guest’s perspective of their spa experience is ultimately the deciding factor in whether they become a regular client or a onetime visitor who shares the details of their less than stellar experience in a negative online review as well as their inner circle. The truth is, you never know who is on your treatment table and how influential their view could be in your community. In my 17 years as an esthetician, educator, trainer and representative for various companies in the industry, I have visited many spas and received many treatments to sharpen my own skills. This is important because the client perspective and technician perspective encompass two separate worlds and viewpoints. As a client, my sense for detail is much more sensitive. From the moment I make contact with the spa to the time I check out and everything in between, it all comes together to determine my perspective. We know that when we build it, they come… but what factors determine whether or not they return?

Sanitation and Cleanliness If your spa is less than immaculate, you will lose clients. Wax drippings, dirty surfaces, window and mirror smudges, dusty retail shelves, cloudy facial steamers, stained towels, musty towel cabinets, worn sheets and linens, dirty bathrooms and floors all leave an unsavory impression with your guests.

Personal Hygiene Bad hygiene in any form makes clients feel uncomfortable and gets in the way of an enjoyable experience. It is important for technicians to have good oral hygiene, wash hands frequently and keep hair, skin and nails well groomed. Staff should refrain from wearing strong perfume, smoking, or eating odorous foods before working with a client. Any staff member who violates these rules of hygiene should be spoken with privately.

DECEMBER 2016

Spa Ambiance The décor, aromas, sounds, staff manners, and the feel of it all come together to produce the “ahhh” factor for guests. Choose your scents wisely, adjust the carefully selected music to a background listening level, and always keep the rooms uncluttered, neat and inviting.

Front Desk The front desk is the brain of the business. It is the first and last point of contact in a client’s spa experience. The way in which your front desk interacts with clients, maintains schedules, han-

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dles conflicts, answers questions and manages the staff is crucial. You have one chance to make a first impression. A lack of professionalism at the front desk sets a negative tone before the client even experiences their treatment. Make sure your front desk staff can serve as a solid source of information by experiencing the signature treatments firsthand, which ultimately allows your reception to market efficiently. They should also receive facial and other esthetic services to maintain their appearance as a reflection of the treatments.

BUSINESS

WHAT IS YOUR CLIENTS' PERSPECTIVE?

takes away from a client’s relaxing experience. There is an art to marketing and selling, and it is important to know a client's boundaries and limitations. Invest in education for your staff on how to successfully retail without overselling.

Your Wow Factor Every spa should have a few unique wow factors, updated on a quarterly basis. For example, you could offer a complimentary retail product of the month with a signature treatment. Give them a choice and change selections every month. Or you could offer a surprise add on or raffle at check–in. Whatever you choose for your wow factor, always stay ahead of your clients’ expectations. sweeping problems under the rug only weakens your business. It is imperative that the survey is anonymous so the client can be honest. Questions should be asked about the spa, the staff, the ambiance, selection of treatments, cleanliness and front desk professionalism. You can even offer clients a complimentary discount on their next service for filling out the survey, explaining that client satisfaction is the ultimate goal of your business.

Manners and Professionalism

Survey Forms Anonymous surveys are the best way to get a client's honest perspective. Many business owners don’t take client surveys because they want to protect their pride. While no business owner likes to hear negative comments or that they are possibly doing something wrong, this feedback is the most effective way to become aware of issues that must be addressed. You must take constructive criticism seriously to improve your spa and the quality of your staff functioning. Lack of awareness and

All staff members represent the spa and its management. Do not tolerate bad language or behavior, poor attitudes, jealousy, greed or nonteam players. These issues can spread like wildfire if not caught quickly and addressed immediately.

Sales Savvy Many spas require technicians to maintain monthly retail quotas. However this pressure to fulfill the quota may create uncomfortable interactions. If clients are bombarded with product sales, it can feel invasive and be a big turnoff. There are times when clients simply do not want to purchase anything, and that must be accepted. An intense retail pitch only

When managing client perspectives, the real question is: How many clients are you losing because of that lack of detail and individualized attention? Clients must feel unique, and not like just another number in a factory “in and out” spa that merely pushes quantity. A perfectly run spa can efficiently book appointments, make a profit, keep technicians happy and create a prosperous business. Never underestimate the importance of your clients’ perspectives, and always stay ahead of their expectations. Build it WELL and they will come — again and again. 

Donna Dodier is an account executive for Baby Foot Peel. She has also been a licensed esthetician for 16 years, as well as a writer, educator, lecturer and consultant on the subjects of LED Photo Rejuvenation, infrared body treatments, spa retail management and wellness. Dodier's passion for animal and human longevity continually inspires her research to promote and provide education on nutraceuticals and holistic alternatives. Contact her at 561.886.8427 or babyfootpeel@gmail.com.

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DECEMBER 2016

a greener future Businesses that pursue progress toward a sustainable future invest in the future. The Green Spa Network believes in promoting well-being throughout the spa and local communities via a shared and committed green philosophy. The winners of the network’s 5th Annual Sustainability Awards at the 2016 Green Spa Network Congress Gala Banquet on September 26th in Tabernash, Colo., honored accomplishments in the fields of leadership, innovation and dedication. Additionally, the Tara Grodjesk Dedicated Contributor Award recognized volunteers who actively contributed to the growth and success of Green Spa Network.

800.275.3045 greenspanetwork.org

BusinessNews

therapist education

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DECEMBER 2016

206.938.5800 bio-therapeutic.com

866.958.9995 stemologyskincare.com 844.799.2384 medresultsnetwork.com

new name, classic offerings A great name in the beauty industry just got greater. Grande Naturals has changed their name to Grande Cosmetics. The evolution reflects their product line expansion. A new logo also debuts which pays homage to their past with an infusion of future anticipation. Grande Cosmetics is widely recognized for their awarding winning functional offerings in the areas of brow, lip and hair care. The brand’s continued mission is to help women enhance their natural beauty with double duty cosmetics that slow down the aging process via clinically proven ingredients.

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Educating clients on the best for their skin is a commitment every spa industry member makes. BioTherapeutic is committed to every skin therapist’s success via education, advance education or a simple refresher. The Bliss Skin Care team dispatches for thorough introduction and a strong overview on implementing their devices such as the BioUltimate Platinum, bt-accent AIR, and bt-accent LED. Bio-Therapeutic educates with a firm belief in promoting the advancement of technology. Their innovative non-invasive equipment defies age and has received industry recognition.

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Medical Spa

Guide

Thinking of expanding your practice? We have what YOU need to be IN THE KNOW!!! The truth about partnering with a physician, fee splitting, regulations and the latest treatments...

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DECEMBER 2016

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Top Considerations for Your Med Spa by Carrie Borzillo

As television commercials flood the airwaves with promises of a more youthful look through plastic surgery, injectables and miracle treatments, more day spa owners are deciding to delve into the world of medical esthetics. More and more spa owners are partnering with doctors to add medical spa services to their treatment menus. Here's how to do it...

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DECEMBER 2016

Medical Spa Guide

Do Your Research

Look Beyond the Resume

Set Clear Expectations

Whether you're just partnering with a doctor for a monthly event or looking to incorporate the doctor's services on a regular basis, vet the candidate in the same way you would vet a potential new staff member. "Call the references,” advises Nancy Reagan, CEO/creator of Bella Reina Spa in Delray Beach, Fla., who has teamed with a medical doctor in internal medicine to provide her clients with such medical spa services as the Plasma Facial, injectables and microneedling. “Check his credentials and education — you don't want some weekend warrior accreditation. Check his Yelp reviews. Check the Better Business Bureau for any lawsuits." Naturally, the doctor should also be licensed and insured and have the proper consent forms for clients to sign prior to treatment. "The liability should be under their insurance so you can't get sued if something goes wrong, but I also put them under my umbrella insurance as well," says Tamara Friedman, owner of Tamara Spa + Wellness in Farmington Hills, Mich., who teamed with a plastic surgeon to provide injectables, cellulite treatments and medical grade peels to her clients. Any medical doctor that has training and experience in the treatments they provide qualifies. Reagan suggests not teaming with a dermatologist or a medical spa that offers similar treatments to your spa. "It's best to team with any other type of doctor that doesn't overlap with what you do so that you don't lose clients," she says.

A doctor can look great on paper, but it's almost more important that he vibes with your spa culture. "Spas are very guest-centric. We go out of our way to make the guest experience relaxing and to cater to their needs and schedules. But, doctors don't always run on tight schedules and often there is a very clinical vibe to their services," says Sandy Stroehmann, owner of Elixir Mind Body Massage in Denver, Colo., which has rented a room to a local medical spa to offer to her clients such treatments as injectables, medical facials and microcurrent brow lifts. Weez Hyman, owner of Desert Zen Day Spa in Bermuda Dunes, Calif., adds that a good bedside manner is also important. "If he's not meshing with your staff or clients, that's a big red flag," she says. One way to help the doctor mesh with the clients better is to cross train. "If they're not willing to cross train on how to talk about each other's services and how to make proper recommendations or if the doctor's management style and business model are not in sync with yours, find another doctor," says Stroehmann. You also want to make sure they share your marketing values. When you research the doctor, go through their social media and website and do a Google search on how they promote and market their own practice and events. "You want a doctor who is willing to promote and market as heavily as you do and willing to split the costs. Otherwise, you find that you are doing all of the work," says Friedman.

The written agreement between your spa and the doctor should include how revenue is split, who books appointments, how marketing, promotion and advertising is split, and who is liable in the event of a lawsuit. Here's how Bella Reina Spa does it: "I promote the services on our website, social media, email, and have a rack card on the desk explaining the services,” says Reagan. “I book the clients and let the doctor know what appointments he has that week. I try to book them at times when the spa is not as busy, such as on Sundays. It's absolutely worth it because it's revenue I wouldn't have had and it fills time slots that are empty anyway." While booking has been easy for Reagan, Friedman has faced some issues. "It's not an easy situation," admits Friedman. "Doctors want you to book a full day, but sometimes there are only two to three appointments, and some doctors don't want to come

DECEMBER 2016

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You want a doctor who is willing to promote and market as heavily as you do.

Medical Spa Guide

in for a few. And I found myself doing most of the work — booking, following up, promoting. You need to set realistic expectations with the doctor in advance in terms of when you expect him to come, how you split advertising costs, who does the booking work, etc."

Throw a Spa Party Throwing an in-spa party is a great way to introduce the new medical treatments and the doctor to your clients. Spa parties featuring medical treatments are also a great alternative to having a doctor rent a room if your business is in a state that prohibits that practice. "It's important to have a clear understanding and contract with the doctor on what is your responsibilities and what he is responsible for the event,” says Friedman. “Create a plan on how

to proceed after party to keep clients coming back. If you don't have the doctor's commitment in active participation and he counts on you to do all the work it will not work.” Desert Sun Spa hosts an event once a month where they invite their clients through social media, email, in-spa signage and flyers handed out at events. At one of their "Botox Parties," they offered Botox, fillers and skin tag removal at discounted rates, and treated guests to champagne, snacks and complimentary chair massages. The doctor provided the product and the nurse." "Customers were asking for the service and I thought it would be a good way to get new clients into the spa and it has," says Hyman. "It brings in new clients as well as forgotten clients. By offering the chair massage, they get introduced to some of our therapists too. The doctor makes money. I

make money and I get new and repeat customers." Bella Reina Spa also has success with their "Bubbles & Botox" party featuring Botox treatments, skin care demos, makeup tips, 3D eyebrow embroidery before/after demonstration, and of course champagne and canapés. Likewise for the spa's "GLAM Glow Spa Party," which promoted microneedling, dermaplaning, 3D Eyebrow Embroidery, microlifting and various fillers, and introduced the doctor to their clients. "We get a lot of bookings from these parties and definitely see an uptick in revenue. It hasn't brought it many new clients, but it's super-serving our existing client base, who have been asking about these treatments or are already doing them elsewhere," says Reagan.

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DECEMBER 2016

Medical Spa Guide

Understanding the Legal Impact by Alex R. Thiersch, J.D.

In retail, salespeople are often incentivized with commission — they receive a percentage of the sales they make that meet certain conditions set by their employers. Despite their superficial resemblance to retail outlets such as salons and traditional spas, medical spas have to play by a different set of rules because their employees administer medical treatments. And in most states, if a medical spa owner is paying employees commission, they are engaging in an illegal practice known as fee-splitting.

The issue In most states, a patient who receives a medical treatment is required to provide payment to a physician or a physician-owned corporation. This doctrine is known as the “corporate practice of medicine.” If these physicians or corporations give a percentage of that payment to a non-physician — in the form of a commission, for example — they have engaged in fee-splitting. Many

DECEMBER 2016

states have laws that explicitly prohibit physicians from splitting medical revenue with non-physicians. This practice is somewhat common at medical spas, because the physicians who operate these establishments, in general, simply wish to reward the people who bring business to the practice. However, the fact remains that, in many states, it is illegal to engage in this practice and doing so places both parties to the transaction at risk.

The ramifications If physicians are found to be engaging in fee-splitting in a state in which it is illegal, they could face the suspension or revocation of their license, as well as a significant fine. What’s more, the person who receives the commission payment is also subject to a fine. This does not mean that medical spa staff members cannot be awarded extra compensation, however; physicians can establish bonus plans, even profit-sharing programs, which are per-

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fectly legal in the eyes of authorities. These types of programs can be very lucrative for employees, and they will prevent all involved from incurring crippling penalties that can damage lives and end careers. The key question to ask, however, is whether the bonus is directly tied to a percentage of medical revenue. If it is, fee-splitting laws may be implicated.

Alex R. Thiersch, J.D., is a Chicago health care attorney who represents medical spas, plastic surgeons, and aesthetic medical professionals. He is the founder and director of the American Med Spa Association (AmSpa), which was created for the express purpose of providing comprehensive, relevant and timely legal and business resources for medical spas and medical aesthetic physicians throughout the United States. For more information about becoming a member or to learn about AmSpa’s upcoming events, visit americanmedspa.org. Thiersch can be contacted at alex@americanmedspa.org.

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The Dos and Don’ts by Alex R. Thiersch, J.D.

Advertising is critical for medical spas. Businesses cannot simply rely on word of mouth or good Yelp reviews bring in clients—they must create effective promotional campaigns to attract new customers. However, this may attract a kind of attention that medical aesthetic professionals definitely don’t want. Here are some good and bad practices for advertising a medical spa.

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DECEMBER 2016

Medical Spa Guide

Good practices 1. Recognize that medical spas are subject to rules that govern medical facilities. Medical spas and traditional spas that offer medical treatments tend to utilize marketing techniques such as websites, social media and advertising. However, it is important for the owners and operators of medical spas to keep in mind that these practices are, above all, medical practices. Because of this, they are subject to the same rules and regulations that govern more traditional medical institutions. 2. Be honest. The ways in which a medical practice can advertise are more restrictive than you might imagine. Health care is something that people need rather

DECEMBER 2016

than want, so advertising for health care facilities must be entirely factual. For more traditional medical outlets, making money typically doesn’t drive business — they are primarily concerned with providing treatments that are in the patients’ best interest. Medical aesthetic facilities and medical spas, however, deal in elective procedures and, because they are in a competitive business space, they may be inclined to make aggressive claims in order to convince people to choose them rather than their competitors. However, these practices must be totally honest when marketing themselves: • They must specify who is performing treatments and what their qualifications are. • They must present their pricing in a simple manner. • They must not attempt to make comparisons to competitors.

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Medical spas must make it clear in their advertising that it is a physician advertising for medical services. For example, if the owner of a day spa brings in a physician to offer Botox injections at his or her facility, the spa cannot advertise that it is offering these treatments — it must specify that the physician is the one who is offering that service. The requirements for medical advertising vary from state to state, so be sure to consult with a local health care attorney to learn what is and isn’t legal in the state where the practice is located before launching an advertising campaign. 3. Keep tabs on your business partners. If a medical spa is using deal programs—such as Groupon and

Medical Spa Guide LivingSocial (which are of questionable legality for medical practices in the first place) — to market its services, it needs to make sure everything sent out by these outlets meets the previously discussed standards of health care advertising. If they contain hyperbole or fail to point out that the physician is offering the services, for example, the practice could face sanctions. Some states have enacted specific requirements for these programs, so be sure to check local law before engaging in one of these campaigns.

Bad practices 1. Not being mindful of your website. Some medical spas publicize medical treatments online using terms such as “medical director” and “medical esthetician”— an improper term to begin with, as estheticians cannot legally practice medicine — instead of mentioning their physicians' qualifications and roles. This can suggest to authorities that the practice is not properly structured. Officers of state regulatory agencies — which are almost always short of funding and staff — will often spend much of their time looking at websites of medical esthetic facilities and medical spas to figure out which ones should be investigated further. If a practice is advertising online in an improper manner, it is much more likely to find itself the subject of a state investigation than if it respects advertising guidelines.

anti-kickback statutes. State medical boards take anti-kickback violations very seriously, so practitioners should be very careful when instituting referral programs. 3. Using hyperbolic testimonials. If patients are extremely happy with their experience at a medical spa, the practice may be inclined to ask them to provide a testimonial that can be used in its advertising. However, such testimonials can only be used in a very limited fashion in advertising for medical outlets. As previously mentioned, advertising for medical institutions needs to be based on facts and documented experience, so the owners and operators of these businesses must make sure that the testimonials they use are factually accurate and include only the clients’ experience with the services they are endorsing. If a patient is effusive in his or her praise, make sure that they make that testimonial visible on a review website such as Yelp or

Realself, which is perfectly legal as it is the patient, not the practice, publishing the review. If an ad campaign is properly executed, it can be very effective; however, medical spas must be very careful about what their advertising says — otherwise, they stand a very good chance of running afoul of the strict laws that govern medical advertising. 

2. Offering rewards for referrals. You may see a medical spa use an advertisement that says something to the effect of, “Get 50% off a microdermabrasion treatment when you refer a friend!” This might be a perfectly innocuous offer for a retail outlet to make, but a medical practice doing this tells everyone who will listen that it is offering monetary value for referrals, which may well be a violation of state

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5 Cutting-Edge Med Spa Treatments

for Adventurous Spa-Goers by Carrie Borzillo

These days, it seems there is nothing spa-goers won't do to turn back the hands of time or feel good. From mainlining beauty into their veins with IV drips full of anti-aging vitamins to injecting their own plasma into their cheeks as a natural filler to letting leeches literally suck their toxic blood out of their body, wellness adventure-seekers are laying down good money for treatments that would make most people squirm. Here are five of the most popular extreme medical spa treatments available today...

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DECEMBER 2016

Medical Spa Guide

IV Drips & Shots Most people dread getting pricked by a needle at the doctor's office. But the times they are a-changing as IV Therapy — a.k.a., intravenous therapy, infusion therapy, and/or IM — intramuscular therapy — at medical spas and specialty IV spas are on the rise. "IV therapies are growing in popularity because spa clients are savvy and understand the role that health and wellness, which includes taking vitamins, plays on the skin,” says Shawna Grant, director of operations at Skin Deep Laser Med Spa and Skin Deep Body in Pasadena, Calif. “They're looking for an overall comprehensive approach to anti-aging, and IV therapies are the most beneficial enhancement to a spa-goer’s regimen." Skin Deep Body's IV menu includes several drips and shots, including B-12 Shot ($25), Vitamin D Shot ($35), Myers' Cocktail ($150), Jet Setter Myers ($200), IM Skinny Shot ($35), IV Hydration Boost ($75), and their most popular, the Glutathione Push ($35). The Myers Cocktail, named after the late Dr. John Myers of Baltimore, Md., who invented it, is a popular blend, or cocktail, that includes magnesium, calcium, B vitamins (including B-12), and vitamin C given via a slow IV push, also known as a slow infusion. It's designed to achieve concentrations of nutrients that are not obtainable with oral administration. It helps with energy, hangovers, migraines, muscle spasms and more. The Skinny Shot is another vitamin injection, which includes lipotropic amino acids that help to speed up metabolism, which in turn helps the body rid itself of fat more effectively. Taken once a week and combined with proper diet

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and exercise, it's shown to be most effective on clients who want to lose 30 to 50 pounds. But Grant says their most popular shot is actually the Glutathione Push. "Glutathione is a powerful, diseasefighting antioxidant — also known as the 'master antioxidant.' It is recommended for detoxification, immunity, and liver and muscle repair; and even has been shown to lighten the skin and aid with hyperpigmentation and melasma," she says. Shots just take a few minutes, while IV drips can take between 45 and 90 minutes, depending on a patient's veins, overall health and level of hydration. Of course, who is allowed to ad-

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Intravenous therapy, infusion therapy, and/ or intramuscular therapy at medical spas and specialty IV spas are on the rise.

Medical Spa Guide

minister this treatment differs by state. In California, for instance, a doctor, registered nurse or physician’s assistant is cleared to perform IV therapies, while medical assistants are allowed to perform IM shots.

Blood Facials If clients aren't flinching at needles, then a little blood certainly won't make them squirm either. This is why the Vampire Facial — a.k.a., Vampire Facelift, Plasma Facial, or PRP (platelet rich plasma) Therapy — is another daring beauty treatment rising in popularity. Bella Reina Spa, a day spa in Delray Beach, Fla., teamed with a local doctor (see related story, page 72) to offer, among other treatments, the Plasma Facial (Approximately 90 to 120 minutes, $799), which includes PRP (platelet rich plasma) injections combined with microneedling. The main benefits are the renewal and rejuvenation of the skin.

"We'd like to be an all-natural and organic spa and not offer injections, but our clients are getting fillers and injections elsewhere, so we found a way to offer them something more natural with this treatment,” says owner Nancy Reagan. “Instead of regular artificial fillers, we push them toward using their own plasma as the filler.” Here's how it works: "The doctor draws the client's blood and they centrifuge it so that it splits the plasma from the blood. They extract the plasma, which is in a jelly consistency. They use that jelly as filler. Our clients love it because it's their own plasma and it's more natural," says Reagan. Other versions of the Vampire Facial include using the blood topically on the face as Kim Kardashian so famously did in 2014, which helped popularize the treatment. Meanwhile, LA Leeches' version of this facial is through the use of leeches, which they put on the client to suck their blood. Once the leech has a belly full of blood, the esthetician extracts the blood from

the leech without killing it and puts the blood back on the client's face. "It's a wonderful nourishing and rejuvenation treatment," says Irina Brodsky, owner and founder of LA Leeches in Pacific Palisades, Calif.

Vaginal Treatments While some spas are dabbling in vaginal rejuvenation services, the aptly titled VSPOT Medi-Spa in New York City has built a spa solely dedicated to all things V. The spa's menu includes treatments designed to tighten, plump, rejuvenate, hydrate and lift, as well as to help heighten orgasms. The O Shot (40 minutes, $2,500) is one of the spa's hottest services. The client's own PRP (platelet rich plasma) is injected into the G-spot and clitoris to increase sensitivity, lubrication and friction, and to enhance orgasms and desire. "By renewing blood vessels and collagen to the vagina, natural lubrication occurs," explains owner Cindy

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Medical Spa Guide

Barshop. "It aids in new collagen formation that increases the elasticity of the vaginal wall increasing friction with intercourse. The PRP also encourages new nerve blood vessels to the area, which causes increased engorgement and sensation." By increasing sensitivity in the erogenous zones, it makes women more interested in sex, thus increasing their overall desire. "And, since the added lubrication makes sex feel better, you want to have sex more so that helps with libido," adds Barshop. Another popular treatment is the V-Swipe (10 minutes, $500), which is a combination of the PRP with the VSPOT Femilift Laser Treatment, a non-surgical laser treatment that uses an FDA approved fractional CO2 laser to help

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with vaginal loosening, dryness and incontinence. "The PRP is swiped inside the vaginal wall after the Femilift Laser treatment has been administered to help speed up tissue regeneration and increased collagen production inside the vagina,” she says. “It's great for women after childbirth or who are aging who have issues with looseness or letting out a tinkle post-sneeze."

Body Sculpting With so many body sculpting/contouring treatments jockeying for position on spa menus, it's hard to sort out the good from the bad. There are treatments that freeze your fat away with cold, melt it away with heat and

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dissolve it via ultrasound, while other technologies promise extreme results without even changing your diet or exercise habits. "Body contouring treatments are extremely popular and are projected to rise in growth in the next three to five years,” says Skin Deep's Grant. “Clients are seeking quick, painless and effective treatments for their entire body with less downtime and there's a lot to choose from." Skin Deep Body's most popular body contouring treatment uses a combination of infrared, bi-polar radiofrequency and vacuum to heat up the tissue. Optical energy targets mainly the dermis, while the radiofrequency energy targets mainly the hypodermis by controlled thermal stress.

Medical Spa Guide

"It's our most popular body sculpting treatment because it's great for slimming, cellulite reduction, and tightening and the technology has improved significantly from the first two machines on the market,â&#x20AC;? adds Grant. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Because there is no downtime, and results can be seen as early as the third treatment." Lauze Volk, M.D., FAAP, FACP at Libelle Aesthetics & Weight Loss Center in Lexington, Ky., says that more research is required in choosing a body contouring/sculpting method than with most other types of spa treatments. "Talk to other spa owners, see the demonstrations, and check the ratings and feedback," advises Dr. Volk. "A lot of them promise things that just don't deliver, have bad side effects, only work on certain parts of the body, or aren't worth the high cost of the equipment." Dr. Volk opted for an ultrasoundbased body contouring service (approximately 40 minutes, $1,500 for four sessions) that uses ultrasound heat in conjunction with lymphatic massage to help fat by-products drain from the body naturally through urine. Due to the warmth and low pain level of this treatment, Volk says it was the most "spa-like" of this category of treatments. "We light candles, dim the lights, and make it very relaxing. I'd say about 90 percent of the treatment is comfortable," she adds.

purification. The application of medicinal leeches stimulates stem cell production and regulates hormones, thus slowing down the aging process. On the skin care side, leeches are used in the aforementioned blood facials, as well as to treat acne, psoriasis, rosacea, and as Brodsky says, "to prolong your beautiful youthful look." Brodsky says that the most common reason people are coming to her for leech therapy lately is to treat varicose veins, thyroid dysfunctions, hemorrhoids, diabetes and any circulatory issues. "It's really a whole body treatment. It helps strengthen the immune system, speed up circulation,

The application of medicinal leeches stimulates stem cell production and regulates hormones, thus slowing down the aging process.

Blood-Sucking Leeches Proving that some will do anything for beauty, leech therapy is making a comeback. This ancient beauty secret actually dates back to 400 B.C. and is used to treat dozens of issues, including vascular disease, headaches, gout, various skin conditions and even sexual dysfunction. Properly called hirudotherapy, some of the main benefits include detoxification, rejuvenation, anti-inflammatory effects, anti-bacterial effects and blood

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Medical Spa Guide

reduce inflammation and congestion and produce collagen,â&#x20AC;? she explains. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Leeches have great medicinal properties in them, bioactive substances and enzymes, so when they latch on, it infuses that 'medicine' through capillaries right into bloodstream." For most procedures, four to five medical leeches from a specialized biofarm are placed on the skin for about 30 to 50 minutes. Leeches are not reused, and this is an FDA-approved, holistic treatment. Clients feel a tiny bug bite when the leech attaches to them, a feeling some compare as similar to a mosquito bite. However, the morphinelike substance in leechesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; saliva helps ease the sting in a few minutes. Brodsky combines many of her treatments with Biomagnetic Pair Therapy, which helps to eliminate some parasites, bacteria, fungus, viruses and other germs, therefore effectively healing many diseases, dysfunctions, ailments and pain. She first identifies pH imbalances in the body by scanning the body with applied kinesiology techniques of muscle testing. The regions of the body that have been affected by pathogenic elements are identified and magnets are then applied to these areas for 20 to 25 minutes. The magnetic energy reestablishes equilibrium (balanced pH) and strengthens and stimulates the immune system, thus helping pathogens leave the body. Leech therapy alone is about $200, or $300 when combined with magnets.

Carrie Borzillo is an award-winning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.

DECEMBER 2016

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DECEMBER 2016

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HOT SPICY skin care The Power of the Cayenne Pepper by Victoria Tabak

CAYENNE PEPPERS are a remarkable fruit with the legendary power to

promote holistic health of the body and skin. Best known as a hot spice containing the stimulant capsaicin, the cayenne pepper is packed with vitamins, minerals and beneficial properties that come together to deliver a plethora of skin beautifying benefits!

ULTRAVIOLET DEFENSE Vitamin E is a significant oil-soluble antioxidant in the body, creating a protective barrier for the skin to lock in moisture and guard it against external environmental assault. Cayenne peppers contain one of the highest, most stable concentrations of vitamin E. When used in conjunction with vitamin C and selenium, it enables a sun-protecting shield for the skin against ultraviolet radiation and inhibits UVBtriggered skin inflammation.

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HOT & SPICY SKIN CARE

ANTI-AGING

ACNE CONTROL

Cayenne peppers help to combat against fines lines and wrinkles in the skin. High concentrations of vitamin A, including beta-carotene, play a significant role in regenerating and maintaining supple skin, and encourage the production of collagen and elastin. The combination of vitamin B, potassium, calcium, iron, manganese and magnesium synergistically work to increase moisture, hydrate, nourish and protect skin against dermatitis, which often affects aging skin, and helps with cellular metabolism and enzymatic function in order for the necessary enzymes to regulate DNA replication and repair. The minerals boost cell growth and renewal, accentuating a vibrant, even textured glow. Properties in cayenne peppers even repair the visible signs of both chronologic and sun-related skin aging.

The impeccable anti-inflammatory properties of cayenne peppers work to remedy inflammation related skin conditions such as acne. Capsaicin, though topically aggressive (and to be used with caution), is a strong constituent of cayenne that works to eliminate inflammation. When applied to the skin it may feel intense and cause temporary surface redness; but once the hot sensation settles, the ingredient has a calming effect. Magnesium, along with vitamins A and B, work together to control acne and reduce breakouts. The peppers create a healing environment for the skin, allowing for the repair of acne breakouts and blemishes.

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DETOXIFICATION Toxins that sit in the body are destructive to the cells. They trigger acne, pim-

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ples and blemishes, and even exacerbate cellulite accumulation. When applied topically, the aggressive stimulant can increase blood circulation throughout the entire body or in localized areas. This boost in circulation improves nutrient and oxygen distribution throughout the body, assisting in better lymphatic drainage and promoting the purge of toxins from the bloodstream.

FIGHTS CELLULITE Cellulite is localized lipodystrophy, a condition in which specific areas of the body have damaged fat tissue. Because cellulite accumulates over time, it is an ongoing battle. The core problem of fat tissue damage is due to poor circulation in the cellulite stricken areas of the body. Cellulite progresses due to lack of circulation, accumulation of toxins and free radicals. The high antioxidant content of cayenne peppers, especially the cell me-

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tabolism boosting vitamin B, along with vitamins A and C, successfully neutralize offensive free radicals that attack the fat tissue. Capsaicin is a phenomenal blood circulation and lymphatic drainage stimulant. It works to repair damaged circulation and facilitates the removal of toxins from the fat tissue, ultimately smoothing the dimply cellulite appearance.

RELIEVES PAIN

Psoriasis is typically categorized as an inflammatory skin disease that appears in patches throughout the body. These patches tend to be red, raised and with a whitish flaky buildup of keratin from the overproduction of skin cells. Capsaicin is remarkable for soothing and reducing discomfort related to dry, itchy skin. The anti-inflammatory traits of the peppers lessen the redness, irritation, scaling and thickness of the patches.

INTERNAL BOOST

HOT & SPICY SKIN CARE

which promotes a glowing complexion. It also heals the body from the inside out, boosting vitality and stamina, improving heart health and enhancing metabolism. Cayenne peppers are an active and potent extract that possess characteristics to bring about wellness, anti-aging and skin beautifying results. Spice up your treatments with the powers of cayenne! 

Victoria Tabak, M.B.A., is a licensed esthetician in two states and president of Nature Pure Labs. She began her involvement in the beauty industry early in life and now has more than 18 years of experience along with a master’s degree in business, minoring in chemistry. For more than a decade, Tabak has taught classes on emerging breakthroughs in the anti-aging skin care industry.

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One way to offer your clients the nutritional benefits of this spice is to offer them a cup of hot water with lemon kicked up with a dash of cayenne pepper to complement their treatments. You can recommend they incorporate this into their daily wellness ritual as well. The infusion increases blood circulation,

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When a person experiences pain, the body sends a chemical messenger called substance P to the brain. Through the action of capsaicin, cayenne pepper has a remarkable ability to lower substance P. By decreasing substance P, there is less of the chemical to travel to the brain, and in turn, less pain. Capsaicin can also serve as a distraction from pain by activating a different kind of intense sensation, taking the brain’s attention away from the original source of distress.

TREATS PSORIASIS

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PERFORM an CLEANSING Clearing client blockages & renewing their layers of light by Maureen Castellon As humans, we are beings of light, but ironically we cannot see our own light. Rather, we can focus on their shadows. If you have ever felt that someone had good energy or bad vibes, you were probably subconsciously picking up on their aura. These layers of light are similar to a glow or radiance of energy. Many believe electromagnetic pulses are coming out of each of us, in a constant flux. Brightness connotes that all is well. When an aura is dull or muted, it often means there is an issue. Thoughts, words and actions leave an imprint that can negatively impact manifestation if traumas have not been released.

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PERFORM AN AURA CLEANSING

hen looking for auras, scan for bright or dull colors. Notice where this happens — the side layers of light glow from the body, such as back, front, top, bottom or right or left side. Auras hold both the light and shadows of a person’s journey. Every layer provides valuable information about the person. Each of us has different vibrations at different regions and organs of our bodies. When an area is not functioning properly it can clog the aura and affect our chakras (energy vortexes that work through the spine on all our vital organs). When we are not in harmony, we become dis-eased. Cleansing an aura is key to well-being and stability. Emotional blocks — when not released or expressed — can form and be captured with Kirlian photography. With these out of the way, life can flow and our personal colors will be brighter. Treatments can impact the aura singularly or as an add-on. Spa therapists can influence these layers of light with a multitude of loving approaches.

THE LAYERS Auras correspond to chakras. In traditional yoga literature, one learns that the layer closest to the surface of the body is associated with the physical body. This mantle is connected to the root and sacral chakras known as the Etheric layer. In a healthy state, it is seen as a blue or white haze extending an inch or so from the surface of the body. By going deeper, we find the Emotional layer, reaching a foot or two from the physical body in a state of health. This layer can have various colors, depending on subconscious responses to circumstances, and is associated with the solar plexus and heart chakras. This layer of light responds primarily to the individual and social aspect of our lives. It is the seat where

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we either feel connected or alienated from ourselves as well as others. Even deeper is the Mental layer that can stretch up to three feet from the physical body. It is directly related to thought processes harnessed by perception and conceptual thinking. This region of our auric field is said to be primarily yellow, but can vary with thoughts and thought patterns. It is connected to the throat and third eye chakras, which have associated with them our ability to concentrate, contemplate, and express discriminating wisdom. Lastly, there is the Spiritual aura. Extending five or more feet from the

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physical body, it is the largest layer. It is violet or white in color and corresponds to the third eye and crown chakras. Associated with the soul, it is also connected to faith and confidence in oneself. This is also the seat of your life’s purpose. It is said that when you are in alignment and moving in accordance with your life’s mission, this level of the aura becomes denser.

MIND - BODY CONNECTION If someone has a kidney infection, it shows up in the aura as dull in the area of the lower back. It affects the Sacral

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PERFORM AN AURA CLEANSING

IF YOU ARE A SPA THERAPIST WHO TEACHES AND MODELS A HEALTHY LIFESTYLE WITH SOUND NUTRITION TO YOUR CLIENTS — YOU ARE POSITIVELY AFFECTING THEIR AURIC FIELD, INCREASING THEIR POWER AND ABILITY TO ACCOMPLISH MORE AND BETTER THINGS IN THEIR LIFE.

chakra. It is usually due to emotions being pent up. It can also be due to lack of water but it affects the aura dulling and slows their vibration. When someone is a worrier or thinking too much, dullness will often be seen in or around the head. Their third eye chakra gets blocked. They may get headaches or have eye problems. The aura shows up dull and sometimes contains even darker spots of stuck energy. Indian and Tibetan for ms of Ayurveda teach that mind always precedes body. In the context of the aura, what this means is that even though some aspects of the aura are more associated with our physical

being and other aspects — our more etheric and spiritual being — all of these dimensions of light have as their foci, specific chakras as explained above. Furthermore, what transforms or “opens” these chakras and lets the true light of our divine presence shine out as our aura is the transformation of negative emotional patterns. This does not mean, however, that if the person we have as a client does their spiritual homework — transforming their jealousy (root and sacral chakras), competitiveness (navel chakra), anger and self-loathing (heart chakra), deception — both to themselves and others — (throat chakra), arrogance and willful disregard or denial of reality (third-eye chakra) — that it isn’t possible to help support them along the way. When we feed the body healthy food that can be absorbed and utilized effectively, the attunement we do to the etheric portion of our aura

associated with the root and sacral chakras creates a greater strength to be more emotionally balanced and do our spiritual work. Thus, if you are a spa therapist who teaches and models a healthy lifestyle with sound nutrition to your clients — you are positively affecting their auric field, increasing their power and ability to accomplish more and better things in their life.

CREATING A RITUAL There are many different ways to affect their auric field, depending on what created the issue. Every practitioner is different, but the ritual can be customized for your spa. First, perform a tarot reading to assess emotional blocks and past challenges. This can also be done with a pendulum or I-Ching coins. Cleansing aromatics that release negative energy such as sage or palo santo

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PERFORM AN AURA CLEANSING

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should be used to clean a person’s spiritual space and layers. Call in spiritual assistants such as the archangels, and a feather can be used to waft the smoke for a deeper purification. Allow the client at least 20 minutes of silence following the ritual to process the emotional shifts that have just occurred. Clients should be given sacred space to talk about any realizations, as well as how they will implement the necessary changes into their lives. A few sessions may be needed to maintain the cleansing and positive changes.

HEALING IN A HECTIC WORLD We are living in a time of great fear and anxiety. Environmental, geo-political and our personal concerns all intertwine and the big questions loom larger in our lives as a result. In Ayurvedic terms, it is a time of Vata being out of balance for most of us. As we are associated with attachment, we become attracted to what may seem like

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Colors vary depending on where they are and what shade they are. The basics relate to the chakras. Red - Root chakra Orange - Sacral Yellow - Solar Green - Heart Light blue - Throat Dark blue indigo - Third eye Violet, pinks - Crown

quick fixes or spiritual or occult-based therapies. As a result — mesmerized by the mysteries and promises of those who may have good intentions, but still lack the awareness or finesse to truly offer what transforms those physical, emotional and spiritual issues that cause us concern, one may find that some offer treatments that have absolutely no benefit. At the same time, those with confused or mal-intent may inflict one with spiritual sickness — the worst being cynicism and a turning away from all matters spiritual.

PERFORM AN AURA CLEANSING

SPA SPECIFICS Aura cleanses can start at $40 for 30 minutes. Cleansing an aura is not one-sided. The practitioner opens themselves up to receive the client’s energy and therefore takes on their emotions as they provide support during the purification. Depending on the issue, this can be draining. A cleansing is an energy exchange of giving and receiving. Pricing should be customized to take into consideration healers’ time, education and experience. 

You may also see many other colors. One misconception is that black in Maureen Castellon is an adjunct writing professor at Miami Dade College and

does not indicate a bad person or

freelance copywriter. She graduated with honors from the English department

negative energy; it means the per-

at the University of Alabama and now blogs at sirenpublications.com. When

son has been wounded for a very

not writing about beauty, Castellon can be found meditating on the beach with

long time.

her German Shepherd.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #280 on reader service card

an aura connotes evil. The dark hue

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Delighting in Herbs 106

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Traditional Herbal Wisdom in the Modern Spa by Rachael Pontillo

a firm believer in the fact that beauty aids in healing, and “isI’m perhaps one of the greatest healers. It seduces and induces people back to wellness, back to that place of balance and harmony that is the soul of life.

”

hese wise words come to us from Rosemary Gladstar, considered by many to be the "Godmother of North American Herbalism." Estheticians have been tasked with the privilege and challenge of helping clients look and feel beautiful. The use of herbs provides common ground, creating a dialogue among the esthetician, client and plants themselves, which can provide long-lasting results that extend far beneath the surface. Conveniently, one doesn’t need a clinical herbalist’s registration or degree to incorporate herbal preparations into spa treatments or home-care recommendations, nor are special equipment and supplies necessary.

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DELIGHTING IN HERBS

HERE ARE

4 SIMPLE WAYS TO PREPARE

HERBAL TREATMENTS IN YOUR SPA.

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Herbal Infusions. The most straightforward and popular way to use herbs in the spa is to simply make tea. Offer it warm in the winter, chilled in the summer as a beverage in your reception or waiting area, and also as a gentle way to help the client transition from the treatment room back to the real world. While herbal teas provide strong inside-out skin nutrition when enjoyed as a beverage, they are also very effective as topical skin care ingredients and treatments. Steep 2 teaspoons of fresh herbs (1 teaspoon dried herbs) per eight ounces of boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes. Use your infusions as a facial steam, in compresses, to reconstitute dry masks, in place of water for cleansing and toning, and even in some steamers and Lucas sprayers (check with the manufacturer first!).

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Extracts. Herbal extracts (also known as tinctures or glycerites) are the most common herbal preparations in skin care products. The beneficial properties of the herbs are extracted from various parts of the plant (and sometimes the whole plant) using a solvent. Traditional solvents are grain alcohol, raw apple cider vinegar or glycerine (this is the gentlest solvent, which is better for inflamed or sensitive skin). Today, however, certain extracts use chemical solvents such as hexane or glycols that chemical-conscious consumers might not want on their skin, so if you’re purchasing pre-made products or extracts, it’s good practice to verify the extraction method and ingredient source. Extracts can also be added to masks, exfoliation treatments, steams, ampoules and spot treatments. The preferred method to create an extract is to submerge dried herbs or flowers in the solvent of your choice. Use enough solvent to cover the herbs by an inch or two, depending on the size of your jar. Shake daily. After three

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to six weeks, strain out your plant matter and store in a cool, dry place (refrigerate if you used vinegar), in a dark glass bottle, labeled with the type of extract, and the date. These are strong concentrations of the herbs’ chemical constituents, so low concentrations should be used. Extracts typically keep for one year when prepared and stored properly. Macerated or infused oils. Creating an herbal oil can take some time and effort, but it’s always worth it, as herbal oils are pleasing to the senses, and are a great way to deliver the therapeutic benefits of the herbs into the skin in a bioavailable way. The method to create macerated oils is the same as that of creating extracts, simply substituting the solvent for a carrier oil like olive or jojoba. After three to six weeks, the oils will take on the healing properties of the plants, while retaining their own benefits; thus creating a beautiful synergistic blend of skin-healthy nutrients. If you don’t

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DELIGHTING IN HERBS

live in a warm, sunny climate you can use a slow cooker on the lowest setting. Strain out the spent plant matter, and store your oils in dark glass jars, away from heat and light (they may be refrigerated). Jojoba oil is one of the most shelf stable, and absorbs well into the skin without clogging pores, which makes it the ideal carrier for the antioxidants, vitamins and minerals extracted from the plants. These oils make great cleansing

oils, oil serums and oil phase ingredients in skin care products.

As a compress or poultice. A poultice resembles a large tea bag or burrito. It is simply fresh or dried herbs wrapped or folded into cheesecloth, gauze or muslin and dampened with warm water. It is applied directly to the skin for 10 to 15 minutes at a time, depending on the herb. Compresses are made by soak-

ing strips or squares of fabric (can be washcloths or small towels) in a hot tea (infusion) or tincture and applied to the skin for 10 to 20 minutes. These treatments are great for softening the skin, drawing out toxins and impurities and delivering the plantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s healing properties directly into the skin. Depending on the herbs you used, use caution around the eye area and always leave the nostrils and mouth uncovered for easy breathing.

HERBS WITH KNOWN SKIN BENEFITS ROSE Naturally high in vitamin C, rose is excellent for its antioxidant benefits, and strong support of healthy collagen production. It also has great astringent properties for firming and tightening, and is a vasoconstrictor, which may help reduce redness.

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GERANIUM Also an astringent, geranium has excellent firming and tightening properties. It also helps increase blood circulation, reduce inflammation and fortify the skin’s microbiome by nourishing beneficial skin bacteria, and keeping harmful bacteria at bay. It’s great for sensitive, broken or compromised skin.

LAVENDER Lavender is one of the most universally tolerated herbs for skin care. Rich in antioxidants, it benefits all skin types, is anti-inflammatory, and even has analgesic properties, which may help reduce topical discomfort as the skin heals. It’s used to relax the mood, promote beauty sleep and benefit the skin directly.

CHAMOMILE Chamomile is one of the most relaxing herbs to apply topically, and is great for overstimulated skin. The German and Roman varieties are known to have the best skin benefits, with anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and even gentle skin brightening benefits. Chamomile is well tolerated, except for those with an allergy to plants in the Asteracaea family (daisies, chrysanthemum, calendula, etc.).

PLANTAIN This common backyard “weed” is also nature’s most powerful first aid remedy. It has been used to relieve anything from poison ivy, contact dermatitis, insect bites and splinters, and is very effective because of its ability to draw toxins out from the skin. It’s excellent for congested, acne-prone skin, either as an in-spa compress or take-home skin-detox toner.

RED CLOVER Also a common backyard “weed”, red clover is a special herb that not only relieves symptoms related to topical skin discomforts like eczema, psoriasis or acne, but also has the ability to help on an internal level to support hormonal and emotional health — both of which are important for skin health. 112

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DELIGHTING IN HERBS

HOW TO RECOMMEND

HERBAL HOME-CARE Encouraging clients to add herbal remedies to their home-care regimens is easier than it might seem. During your treatments, educate your client about the herbs you used, why you chose them, and how simple it was for you to prepare them, and then teach them to translate this into a daily or weekly ritual they can do at home. The more the client feels like an equal partner in her care, the more she’ll comply and come back to you for more herbal esthetic wisdom. You can also create custom dry herb blends to retail, with instructions on how to prepare them. While you

shouldn’t claim that your herbs heal, treat or prevent a specific condition, you can indicate who might benefit most from them, and how to use them properly.

Rachael Pontillo is the bestselling author of the book “Love Your Skin, Love Yourself”. She is an international health coach, licensed esthetician and natural skin care

Herbs are an excellent addition to any esthetics practice, as well as any at-home skin care regimen. They are simple to prepare, relatively safe when used properly, and offer topical results that are visible and pleasing to the eye, but also unseen results that are pleasing to the mind, body and spirit. Providing that experience for a client is a true privilege and honor. 

formulator and educator. Pontillo is the president and co-founder of the Nutritional Aesthetics™ Alliance, creator of the healthy lifestyle blog, Holistically Haute™ and the online course, Create Your Skincare. She is currently pursuing her Ph.D. in Holistic Life Counseling, and holds certifications in metaphysical science, detoxification, acupressure, Reiki, Chinese facial diagnosis and Ayurveda.

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Organic & Wellness News

A facelift can be pain-free and conveniently packaged in a jar. Introducing the new PhytoLift™ Moisturizer from ilike organic skin care that takes its inspiration from the fields of Hungary. A silky combination of clover, hop, flaxseed and yucca create a nourishing botanical infusion that smoothes wrinkles with a collagen boost. Free radicals are trounced by protective grape seed oil while shea butter and lavender oil hydrate and fill fine lines and wrinkles. Organic is better as the ingredients fuse to balance skin’s natural hormone levels.

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THE GIFT OF BLESSINGS

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Celebrate the delights of beauty. Ila’s Festive Blessing Crackers provide a heavenly combination of heart nourishing products to replenish energy, renew skin and connect with the senses. Instead of the traditional inclusion of a joke, a blessing card gives receivers a lovely keepsake in the spirit of well wishes. Stuff stockings with Radiate Your Love’s four essential skin treats: cleansing milk, a refreshing toner, a radiating day cream and rejuvenating night cream. Love and Be Loved contains luxurious body lotion and body wash as well as centering bath salts and revitalizing body oil. Rejoice in beauty!

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winter retreat for skin

There are five elements in Traditional Chinese Medicine. Elemental Herbology was founded on the Five Element Theory to help skin achieve a state of optimum health and vitality. The Purify & Soothe Facial Cleansing Balm focuses on the winter element just in time for the season. With marshmallow extract and chamomile essential oil, this element focuses on nurturing, supporting and a sense of tranquility during this quieter, more reflective time of year. The time is now for clients to look inward and observe to enrich their well-being.

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Valentina’s Naturals offer pure, authentic and true organic ingredients via new cleansers, toners and moisturizers. The fresh scent of pure nature invigorates skin and refreshes the mind for complete well-being. All product formulations are 100 percent natural, certified organic, Ecocert, GMOFree, vegan, cruelty-free, conflict-free, sustainablyharvested ingredients whenever possible and free of synthetic chemicals such as Phenoxyethanol. Valentina Naturals offers a full disclosure labeling policy, making it easier for clients to make the most informed decisions about their beauty routines. Discover the source of the finest organic plant-derived ingredients.

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Business Advice For Beauty Professionals

Threading Pioneers in Indiana Pattie Kobe

Owner and director of State of Mind Salon and Day Spa Crown Point, Indiana

Service and Retail Why did you decide to implement makeup into your spa? It all started on July 3rd, 1999, with a bridal party. I have a love/hate relationship with makeup. I love creating clear complexions and educating clients on what works best with their skin. The hate part deals with the brevity of the bridal season and the challenge of keeping track of the necessary inventory as it relates to trends. I make sure to stock my 10 favorite pieces and use a private

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label. My rule is to have staples, but play around with shadows and lipsticks.

What kind of makeup treatments do you offer on the menu? Bridal is our most requested. We also offer special occasion and we have a popular brow bar. Brows can be a great starting point; our draws include tweezing or a quick makeup lesson on how to fill in brows. We do one as an example and guests use wax, powder or a felt tip to fill in the other.

How did you choose your makeup line? We use a private label. I recognized that makeup would account for a small percent of business and we needed to be smart about it. With a private label, the spa can switch over seasonally and still be profitable. Private label is a bit more complicated than we realized at first. You have to market it and do the displays yourself whereas with brands they do that all for you. Considerations must also be given to price points and label design. You must be creative on your own with private labels. Our staff members do it because it is a large responsibility for the spa.

How popular are your makeup services? Depends on the season. When getting their makeup done, clients do not want their daily look; they want high-impact looks. Summer is casual. Winter is more structured. We do a ton of galas; the more formal events are big tickets.

Which makeup services have the most success? Bridal is generally the most popular makeup service, but it does depend on the season. Our brow bar is quite popular. We fill in the brows, which shapes the face. We wax eyebrows every day and in a month we do 10 makeup applications, but perfect 1,500 eyebrows. We are big fans of threading, but the trend has not reached Indiana yet. It will and we want to be prepared.

How profitable are makeup services? Our makeup services are more of an investment than a revenue generator. Makeup accounts for 10 percent of our revenue and we must offer it to keep clients.

Makeup Area What is the surface area of the makeup compared to the rest of the spa?

our makeup area spans a 10 x 10 space. We have a bridal suite on the property available for rental.

What prompted you to choose that size? We are flexible in terms of space. Our makeup area used to be center stage, but clients requested more privacy. In this business, there is a learning curve, so we adjusted the space to their liking.

Team Members How did you select makeup artists? Our resident makeup artist specializes in special effects. She primarily does film and is an in-demand freelancer as well. If we have parties or group events, she is on the property. Stylists do touch ups so they can train for retail.

Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment? Other staff members are trained to promote instead of estheticians as they are booked up. We show them visuals that are popular on Pinterest, Instagram and other social media platforms. Consultations are now different, as guests can pull up their looks digitally for reference. Social media has inspired a ton of consumers and now they are very knowledgeable. Spas should research trends because clients want to be fashionable and trust their service providers.

Policies What is your tardy, cancellation and tipping policy and how did you come up with it? Habitually, we have a strong conversation about the importance of being a market leader. If service providers are tardy, we do have time built in. For late guests, we have a strong script. No one wants to be told they are late. We try to use remaining time wisely, but still charge full price for services. It will become a habit. Make a commitment to run on time to set an example.

Rewarding the team Do you have rituals or methods of creating positive energy for your spa? We hired a consulting company to help with business aspects, as we are a performance-based company. Each meeting starts with gratitude notes. Our team members meet every month to celebrate success and retail sales. Raises, balloons and culture trainings are our backbone and heartbeat. We have lots of celebration rituals. Incentives include money, promotions and gift cards â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the simple things.

Marketing How do you promote your makeup services? Great makeup is eye-catching. Our girls wear great makeup because clients want to see their service providers looking pulled together. One successful promotion is we show before and afters on social media. We also provide a checklist for bridal makeup. Our biggest promotions tend to be referral-based and we use our own guests to grow.

We want to k how YOU d now id it! Shar

e your in sight on incorporatin g makeup se rv ices into your spa with us, and you may be featured in an upcomin g edition of Les Nouvelle s EsthĂŠtique s & Spa. Simply send an email (5 0 to 100 words) to am anda@LNEo nline.com. Together, le t's build a community one word at a time!

State of Mind is 6,000 square feet and

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MAKEUP & How to Avoid Them in Your Spa by Terri Vinson, M.D.

s a female cosmetic formulator in the beauty industry for more than 20 years, I have seen many weird and wonderful beauty trends come and go. Makeup has undergone its own massive makeover over the course of this time, particularly with the advent of quality mineral makeup. Everyday makeup is designed to enhance, not alter oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance. Here are my top tips and tricks to share with your clients to help them avoid the most common blunders in their daily routines.

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7 DEADLY MAKEUP SINS

(using the wrong color foundation)

Many women in their 40s and 50s still adhere to the same makeup techniques and colors they used in their 20s. Times, trends and techniques have certainly changed, and my top makeup tip for aging women is “Less is best”. The makeup worn by a woman in her 20s is not appropriate in her 40s and 50s. As women age, their skin appears dryer and those dreaded fine lines begin to infiltrate, so subtle enhancement with a dewy complexion is key. Heavily applied foundation, shimmery eyeshadows and bright colors instantly add years to their look! Advise them to opt instead for hydrating bases, soft natural eyeshadows on the lid and crease, and choose subtle brown eyeliner instead of harsh black tones.

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Choosing the correct shade for one’s skin tone creates the basis of their makeup. That’s why it’s called “foundation”! Steer your clients away from the common rut of using one shade of foundation all year round. Skin changes with the seasons, even without lying in the sun, so one’s choice of foundation should adapt as well. Recommend using a foundation in the lightest possible tone for winter and a darker tone for summer. Mix the two between seasons or use a matte bronzer to deepen the winter foundation. It’s fine to go a little darker in the summer as long as it blends with the natural neck and jaw tone, but using a dark foundation won’t enhance your client’s natural skin tone or make their skin look any healthier. Steer your clients away from the age old trick of matching their foundation to the inside of their wrist — it’s simply not the same tone as the face. For a perfect match, they should choose a shade that blends directly into their neck or jawline. Also, advise them to use the correct type of brush: a kabuki brush to blend loose minerals and a foundation brush to blend creams and liquids. My best advice is blend, blend, blend… then check and blend some more.

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Avoid overusing concealers. Foundation should be able to conceal 90 percent of skin imperfections. Concealing is a necessary final step to creating a flawless base, but it should never be obvious... always blend, blend, blend! Offer your clients the following tips for best results: • Color correction should be applied first (before foundation) to even out skin tone. Apply sparingly with a small concealer brush and blend using dabbing movements with the ring finger. • After color correction, apply skin tone concealers (one shade lighter than foundation) over the top of the base color. • Apricot toned concealers are perfect for concealing dark under eye circles. • Green-based concealers are ideal for camouflaging redness. • To cover minor blemishes, use a concealer that is slightly lighter than the foundation. • Apply concealer sparingly to the base of the eyelid to brighten the area, making the eyes seem more awake. •

Don’t use concealers containing

ingredients that may congest the skin, such as comedogenic oils, petroleum based oils and artificial colors. Mineral concealers are ideal.

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4 To create the illusion of fuller lips, applying lip liner and lipstick too far over the lip line is not the way to go. Here are my tips to help your clients enhance their natural shape to create a perfectly defined pout:

7 DEADLY MAKEUP SINS

5 A little goes a long way! Start by very lightly sculpting out the cheekbone with bronzer. Then go in and subtly build up the tone of the blush in light layers on the apples of cheeks and temples. Harsh, unblended streaks are not a good look. Contouring takes practice, and using the correct blending brush is vital. Soft “bunny tail” brushes are excellent for applying blush and contouring requires a slightly denser brush.

• Preparation is key. Apply an overnight lip treatment and gently exfoliate lips with a toothbrush and mild physical exfoliant scrub. • Apply loose minerals or setting powder sparingly to the lips as a primer to create a blank canvas. • Choose a lighter lip color or gloss to give the illusion of larger lips. • Line lips with a liner slightly darker than lipstick using small, feathery strokes. Avoid overdrawing more than 2 mm from the natural lip line and blend inward to avoid a visible line. • Apply a thin layer of lipstick with a brush and blot with a tissue. • Follow with a light dusting of setting

• Apply a dab of highlighter to the Cupid’s

Thin, over-defined brows are out. Today’s brows are natural and fuller. After you determine the brow best suited to your client’s face and create the perfect shape for them, they can follow these steps to further define their now perfect arches on a daily basis:  Apply a matte brow powder to fill in and define.

Bow of the lips and blend.

a. Blondes and light brunettes look best with a taupe tone.

• Clean up the edge of the lip line with

b. Dark hair looks best with a deep, chocolate tone; avoid any browns with a

a light tone of concealer and blend with

powder. • Apply another thin layer of lipstick with a brush and blot again.

reddish tone.

a small cotton tip or ring finger.

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7 DEADLY MAKEUP SINS

 Use a flat slanted brush to define brows.  Apply using light sweeping strokes in the direction of the hair.  Set with a small amount of hairspray on a dry mascara wand.

7 Quality mineral makeup is the makeup of choice today. Many companies have jumped on the mineral bandwagon and created inferior "faux mineral products" products containing cheap cakey fillers, pore clogging additives and artificial colors. Quality mineral foundations should behave like a second skin and produce a dewy glow with natural coverage that can be gradually built up in layers. To truly get the best results, it is best to choose makeup that does more

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than just enhance, but actually benefits the skin. Retail makeup for your clients that includes ingredients like zinc oxide to provide natural UV protection and reduce redness and irritation.

Te r r i V i n s o n , M . D . , i s a cosmetic scientist with more than 20 years of formulating experience. She is the founder, managing director and formulator of leading Australian

The key to creating a radiant glow is using products that enhance and benefit the skin — and then combining this with the correct techniques. Makeup should work in synergy with a woman’s skin and support skin function throughout the day. At the end of the day, makeup is a huge confidence booster that is all about making women feel truly great in their skin! 

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cosmeceutical brands Synergie Skin® and Synergie Minerals® (distributed in the U.S. by Skin Elegance International). S y n e rg i e p ro d u c t s a re s p e c i f i c a l l y designed to protect, change and nurture all skin concerns in a variety of environmental conditions.

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Preparing skin for a flawless makeup application by Ami Mallon

As estheticians and spa professionals we wear many hats. We are our client’s friends, confidants and health advisors, but our most notable role is skin care and beauty expert. There is a lot that goes into this role and many of these facets include thinking outside the box! We’ve discussed at length the retail and income opportunity that introducing makeup in an esthetics practice can bring. It is so important to view makeup application as an extension of your client’s skin care regime. The easiest way to “bridge the gap” between makeup and skin care services is through skin prep!

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SKIN OPTIMIZATION

Enter the

Sadly, I know from personal experience how terrible a makeover can look if the right preparatory steps are not followed. The skin can look dry, dehydrated, oily or puffy. There are so many factors that can affect the outcome of a makeup application. Not only will prepping the skin before application allow for the actual makeup to look better and last longer, but oftentimes it in itself can be an additional treatment or service to offer the client! Here are a few of my favorite skin prep tips and tricks to help enhance the client experience and increase business.

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Every good esthetician knows the importance of cleansing the skin. It’s the first step to any facial treatment and the same goes for makeup! Applying makeup to skin that is dirty will result in… well, dirtier skin and an uneven makeup application. Often times a double cleanse is the perfect way to ensure that any excess debris has been fully removed from the skin’s surface. Make sure to choose a cleanser for your client that is non-drying and pH balancing in order to achieve the best result. Be thorough with each cleanse and don’t forget — a cleanser is essential to a client’s home care regimen as well! Send your client home with the same cleanser she fell in love with in your treatment room to remove makeup later on!

The proper amount of exfoliation can make or break a makeup application session. The addition of a light AHA chemical exfoliant (such as a gentle lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, ma-

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lic acid), gentle scrub or enzyme can leave the skin smoother, brighter, and free of superficial dead skin cells that can leave makeup looking heavy, flaky and patchy (over-exfoliating can leave skin dry, red, irritated and flaky). These types of light exfoliation treatments may also be considered an add–on treatment and can up the price of your facial treatment. Look for a formulation with added vitamins and antioxidants to help brighten a dull complexion to create the perfect makeup palette.

We know that serums are a necessary step in both in-room treatments and home care regimens. Serums can also really make all of the difference when it comes to the texture and tone of the skin for makeup application. They are active concentrates, and high concentrations of ingredients like retinoids, vitamins, antioxidants, growth factors and anti-inflammatories can have both immediate and long-term effects on the

skin. To increase the long–term effects, be sure to recommend the appropriate serums to create significant change to the skin over time. For the immediate, apply serums before makeup to increase cell turnover, enhance and give skin the pick me up it needs for a “glowing from within” look.

As with any professional field, the addition of technological devices has made a splash in the beauty industry. Devices give the skin care professional the ability to “show off” and enhance the services that the spa professional offers, including your makeup applications. Do you have a microcurrent device? Use it to calm down irritation and puffiness, regenerate skin cells and smooth lines. Microdermabrasion can gently remove the outermost layers of the skin. These are a few examples that make great additions to a makeup application. You should always check with your state board to make sure that the de-

SKIN OPTIMIZATION

vices used are approved for an esthetics treatment room.

Much of a makeup application is centered around the eyes, whether we’re talking eyeshadow, liner, mascara or lashes. Many makeup looks are designed to draw attention to the eye area. Because of this the eyes should look their best! Prepping the area around the eyes is key to a successful makeup application. Utilizing an eye roller can help to brighten the eyes by alleviating some of the puffiness and discoloration caused by a buildup of fluid. The under eye area can also be greatly improved with an eye serum or moisturizer. These products often contain ingredients like peptides, brighteners and anti-inflammatories and enhance the effect of an undereye concealer. Send your client home with these products as well to boost their at-home makeup application!

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SKIN OPTIMIZATION

providing these additional skin care processes reinforces two things: Don’t forget the lips! As we enter winter, it’s important to note that the lips tend to suffer as the weather grows colder. The climate at this time of year is dry and harsh and often leaves lips chapped and flaky, which can equal a chapped and flaky lipstick application (particularly with this year’s matte and liquid lipstick trends). Make sure to treat those lips! The first thing I do when beginning a makeup application is create a gentle physical exfoliation on the lip area by using a scrub in a circular motion. Then I hydrate with a serum (eye serums tend to work best as they often have added peptides), followed by a rich balm or oil. I allow this hydrating mixture to sit on the lips as I work on the rest of the face. When lips are the last part of the face I work on, they are fully prepped, hydrated and ready for lipstick or gloss.

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The best tip for makeup that looks incredible and lasts all day is to use your primers! Primers are often overlooked when it comes to makeup application but they serve a purpose. Eye shadow primers help to lock shadow in and enhance color, and lash primers can help protect eyelashes and promote nourishment and growth while making lashes appear longer. BB creams can be used under foundation as a foundation primer and help makeup to last all day while giving an added SPF 15 protection or more! Face primers are key for helping makeup to last. Adding a primer to a makeup regimen can really make all of the difference, particularly if you have added event or bridal makeup to your list of services. No matter what preliminary steps you take to prepare your client’s skin for makeup application, remember that

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1. It strengthens the esthetician’s role as “beauty expert” in the mind of the client. 2. Skin care (or "prep" in makeup terms) plays a huge role in the final result of the makeup! When skin has been properly cleaned, exfoliated and hydrated, the end result of the makeup application is incredible. This leaves the artist free to create gorgeous glowy skin, a fantastic smoky eye and a luscious lipstick application!  Ami Mallon is a licensed esthetician and makeup artist. She has worked closely with top spas, medical spas, dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Mallon previously served as the Director of Education for Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare and as a national makeup artist and skin care educator for gloProfessional. Now a freelance artist, she uses her passion and knowledge of skin and cosmetics to educate her clients, creatively and professionally.

FLAWLESS COVERAGE

Repêchage Perfect Skin Liquid Foundation harvests the age-defying power of the sea. Perfect coverage fights the signs of aging with vitamins A, E and C. The seaweedbased formula hydrates while offering natural protection to nourish skin. Light reflective pigments soften flaws and fine lines for a look that defines the silky smooth finish. Discover the hottest crazes in makeup that are free from oil and fragrance. Don’t conceal complexions; unleash them with sea-inspired beauty!

800.248.SKIN (7546) repechage.com

the orient adventure begins

904.739.2560 noreenyoung.com

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

A perfect pout entails fullness, which can be achieved with collagen peptides and anti-aging ingredients courtesy of Gerard Cosmetics’ Color Your Smile Lighted Lip Gloss. Instead of holiday cakes and pies, treat clients' mouths to something even better — a lip gloss experience! Festive parties and hanging lights may not be the best backdrop for touch-ups. With a mirror on the side of the tube and a light up wand, clients can apply this velvety formula perfectly every time. Discover why the nonsticky formula is a favorite of beauty bloggers and professional makeup artists everywhere.

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create a lip gloss experience

Noreen Young is the makeup artist’s makeup artist. As an international educator, makeup artist and skin therapist, her latest offering, Lucky Cookie Beauty Box, is the first just-for-estheticians treasure box that embodies the beauty secrets of Asia. Discover the classics of Far Eastern beauty with Chinese Powder Papers, Asian Lip Treatment Masks, Tealisicous Green Tea lip conditioner and Korean hand and body lotion. Noreen’s collection of Asian facial recipes are included as a bonus. Explore the beauty secrets of the East with newfound treasures.

800.454.7440 gerardcosmetics.com

eyeing impressiVE numbers While eyes may be the window to the soul, they are also the first place to show a client’s age. DEJ eye cream™ from Revision Skincare has been clinically proven to fight the signs of aging. Ninety-six percent of subjects experienced an improvement in the look of fine lines, firmness and overall photodamage, while 90 percent of subjects experienced an improvement in upper eyelid appearance. The unique blend of extracts, peptides and potent antioxidants hydrates and revitalizes skin around the eye for a smoother texture that will impress.

800.385.6652 revisionskincare.com

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ADVERTISER INDEX

Reader Service No.

Page Number

49............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 99............... Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 10............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 19............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 47............... Celluma................................................................... biophotas.com................................................................ 295 11............... Decleor................................................................... decleorusa.com............................................................... 257 111............. Dermaware.............................................................. dermaware.com............................................................. 256 99............... Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro USA........................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 65............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 59,109........ Grandelash MD....................................................... grandelashmd.com........................................................ 286 104............. Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................... halecosmeceuticals.com................................................ 133 4,5.............. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgeforlife.com............................................................... 201 42,43.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas............. dallas.skincareshows.com 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 105............. LashBomb............................................................... lashbomb.com................................................................ 280 77............... Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 23............... Methode Brigitte Kettner........................................ mbkskincare.com............................................................. 329 132............. Nelly Devuyst / Derme & Co.................................. derme.ca......................................................................... 124 89............... PhotoMedex........................................................... radiancy.com.................................................................. 327 48............... RéjuvaSea................................................................ rejuvasea.com................................................................. 246 57............... Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 94,95.......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 123..............Rhonda Allison..............................................................rhondaallison.com.................................................................190 15............... Satin Smooth........................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................ 304 17............... Shira........................................................................ shiraesthetics.com.......................................................... 249 115............. Skin Blends.............................................................. skinblends.com............................................................... 283 50............... Skin for Life............................................................. skinforlife.com................................................................. 156 37............... Tama Research Corporation.................................... tamaresearch.com.......................................................... 247 31............... Vital Assist............................................................... vitalassist.com................................................................ 237 There were 2 errors printed in the November edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. On page 92, the wrong website was printed for product #33. The correct website for Le Mieux Cosmetics is lemieuxcosmetics.com. On page 118, the wrong name was printed for the product described and pictured. The correct name of the product is Purity Renewing Facial Balm from PurErb Skincare. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #124 on reader service card