LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals February 2016
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from the
EDITOR LOVE IS IN THE AIR THIS MONTH FOR VALENTINE’S DAY, AND SO IS THE BUZZ ON OUR LONG ANTICIPATED FEBRUARY ISSUE.
Improved Formula New Look
This month’s edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa reveals the news everyone’s been waiting for: 2016’s LNE & Spa BEST winners! A special photo feature starting on page 36 highlights the phenomenal winners and runnersup in a record 42 categories. Hats off to our winners and nominees, and many thanks to all our readers for letting your voice be heard through your votes!
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To complement the best and newest innovations, this month’s Future of Equipment Guide is all about keeping your treatments up to date with the latest technology. From achieving a flawless face with microcurrent and lifting sagging skin to choosing the best equipment for your spa business, this guide has everything you need to succeed in a new generation of beauty remedies.
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Available Now
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Also featured are the best therapies for technologyrelated aches and pains, how to ground your clients by implementing life coaching in your spa and all the benefits of organic spirulina. As always, it’s a pleasure to bring you the best this dynamic industry has to offer.
—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com REV111115
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A Big Collaboration
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Bio-Therapeutic is an official supplier of Advanced Skin Care Technology for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica.
REV111015
LNEONLINE.com bio-therapeutic.com | 800.971.6259
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FEBRUARY 2016
V O LUME 31
NUMB E R 2
CONTENTS ORGANIC & WELLNESS
SKIN 12 24 34
Delicate Dealings Shhh... Your True Age is Showing Skin News
Spirulina in the Spa 106 Happier Clients Today 112 Organic & Wellness News 118
Spirulina in the Spa page 106
Shhh...Your True Age is Showing page 24
SPA
Inspired Glamour
44 52 60
Spa of the Month Taking Care of Technophiles Spa News
page 122
IMAGE Let’s Talk Makeup with Kerry and Amy Hovland Inspired Glamour Image News
BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Kristy Murrow Steps to Success The Keys to Retail Success Business News
64 68 76 84
120 122 128
EXTRAS From the Editor 6 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia, PA 22 LNE & Spa’s BEST Product 2016 36 Advertiser Index 130
FUTURE OF EQUIPMENT GUIDE On the Cutting Edge 86 Give Your Clients a Lift 88 Flawless Face 94 Beauty Arsenal 98 Science Behind Beauty 100
Cover
Future of Equipment Guide
Doc. Schwarzkopf
page 85
GUIDE
Thinking forward to a new era of beauty tech care
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) Worldwide: 305.443.2322 Fax: 305.443.1664 LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com
LUMIPELÉ
Editorial Associate Raquel Levy raquel@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@LNEonline.com
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LUMIPELÉ BRIGHTENING FACIAL
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OUR MOST POPULAR & EFFECTIVE WINTER FACIAL WITH A COMPLETE HOME RETAIL PROGRAM!
International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
This ultimate brightening, firming & anti-aging treatment improves the appearance of skin color, evenness and texture within one treatment. Combine with our new Retinol and Moisture Lift SPF 30 for maximum results.
ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato
Through February 28, 2016, receive the LNE & SPA Best Winner! Pot of Gold Scrub FREE with Lumipele Kit Purchase (Retail value $55.00).
C ontr ibutors Tina Abnoosi
Rachel Davita Harris
German Segura
Rose Marie Beauchemin
Chris Jackson
Louis Silberman
Kris Campbell
Chris Kolodziejski
Dori Soukup
Caroline Canetti
Raquel Levy
Jennifer Thompson
Elina Fedotova
Dasha Saian
Amanda Clinton Winter
Printed with 100% soy-based ink.
BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com FEBRUARY 2016
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Delicate DE ALING S U N D E R S TA N D I N G
SENSITIVE SKIN BY KRIS CAMPBELL
S
ensitive skin is a condition the skin care professional sees every day in the treatment room. In a study published in the International Journal of Dermatology, 44.6 percent of individuals polled stated they had sensitive skin.1 As sensitivity levels rise due to various factors, it’s important to determine exactly where your client’s sensitivity comes from before deciding on a specific course of treatment.
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DELICATE DEALINGS
S
kin sensitivity always comes with inflammation, whether visible or not. Environmental factors, reactions to cosmetics or fragrances, aging, medications and health challenges can all contribute to sensitive and ultra-sensitive skin. These factors can lead to symptoms such as stinging, itching, burning and/or visible skin changes like redness, dryness, scaling, peeling, bumps, acneic breakouts, hives or hyperpigmentation. 2 Most people with sensitive skin don’t seek help from a professional until the discomfort becomes unbearable, so it’s essential for professionals to understand how to address it once a client comes to see you about it. (See sample client questionnaire on page 19 as an example of how to determine the cause behind a client’s sensitive skin.)
FACTORS BEHIND SENSITIVE SKIN -
ENVIRONMENTAL
Exposure to extreme cold, heat or chemicals can cause skin sensitivity, as living in harsh climates or weather that swings from one extreme to another can result in inflammation and dehydration. This is why knowing where a client works or spends their time can help you identify their source of sensitivity. For example, a client who works in a factory where they are exposed to irritating chemicals may not benefit from aggressive treatments such as peels or lasers. Their environment is a contraindication, and their skin would have difficulty healing from these procedures.
FRAGRANCE Most people don’t suspect that fragrance could be behind their skin irritation because these ingredients don’t cause skin to become inflamed. However, the skin below the surface could be suffering from collagen breakdown resulting from a reaction to the fragrance. When collagen is compromised, the skin has a reduced ability to fight environmental damage or heal properly.3
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The Makers of
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When booking appointments, clients should be asked if they have any sensitivity to fragrances so you can be prepared with the right products and atmosphere in the treatment room. If possible, schedule these clients at the beginning of the day before an aroma builds up from other services. Consider carrying an alternative line of skin care that has little or no natural fragrance to accommodate fragrance sensitive clients. Note that clients who are pregnant or undergoing cancer treatments may have a temporary sensitivity to fragrance.
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS New skin care ingredients enter the market daily, as manufacturers use more natural ingredients for color and preservatives while promising to fulfill consumers’ ultimate skin care goals. Many food ingredients are now used for antiaging, calming and even to provide natural color. These exciting developments in skin care formulations make it all the more important to ask clients about known allergies, including food. Cosmetic Intolerance Syndrome (CIS) is another issue to consider with sensitive clients. CIS is a skin condition that can result from a combination of factors. The overuse of topicals on a daily basis, along with regular use of acids or physical exfoliation can compromise the skin barrier. Active ingredients penetrate deeper and thus can cause rashes and inflammation. For clients with CIS, stay away from all acids and exfoliation. The goal with these clients must be to calm, hydrate and repair the barrier.
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HEALTH-CHALLENGED SKIN An individual’s skin is considered healthchallenged when it experiences reactive skin conditions resulting from internal diseased states and/or medications to treat these diseases. This factor cannot be overlooked, as close to 70 percent of all Americans take some sort of medication daily.4 Ask the right health and medication related questions on your client intake form in order to “do no harm.” For example, a client may not think it’s important to tell you they take antidepressants, however many such drugs can cause skin rashes and sensitivity.
AGING Baby boomers make up almost 15 percent of our population, a percentage expected to increase in years to come. While this group seeks out the latest anti-aging discoveries, their skin physi-
ology has changed with age, causing them to be more sensitive to certain treatments and products. The epidermis of aging skin has a slower cell turnover and a reduced production of lipids, which causes more dryness, while the dermis experiences a reduction in collagen. A professional can still work on wrinkles and spots for the aging client by using less aggressive ingredients like retinaldehyde or types of vitamin C specifically developed for sensitive skin.
Ask the right health and medication related questions on your intake form in order to “do no harm.”
Pour exactly the amount you’ll need into an empty metal can. The Pebble Wax will quickly melt into a rich, creamy formula for all-over body and facial hair removal. Hard wax, no-strip formulas of Calendula Gold®, Wild Cherry, Titanium Blue and Citrus Mojito maximize removal while minimizing discomfort. Dermatologist Tested. Easy to Use. No Waste. Convenient. ©2015 Professional Products Division. 15LI019045
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CUSTOMIZE YOUR SERVICE WITH YOUR FAVORITE WAX IN A POURABLE PEBBLE WAX FORM.
SKIN
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DELICATE DEALINGS
TREATMENT AND HOME CARE Keeping the skin’s barrier in proper working order is key for clients with sensitive skin. Whether compromised due to health challenges or the use of aggressive products or treatments, the skin’s barrier needs to undergo a repair process. The proper steps must also be taken to protect it against future damage. Ingredients such as ceramides (1,3,6-11), natural waxes (candelilla and carnuba), oils with high fatty linoleic and alpha–linoleic acid content and probiotics can all be beneficial to helping restore barrier function.5 Also encourage sensitive clients to apply sun
protection, as the sun’s rays can cause skin damage and impairment to the immune system. Avoid products that are too active or aggressive in treatments and home care recommendations. Hydration is also key to treating sensitive skin, starting with proper water intake. Topically, use and recommend ingredients that help maintain the skin’s moisture levels, such as hyaluronic acid and products that can provide a shield to keep the levels of moisture protected. Advise the sensitive client to use microfiber towels on their skin and linens with a high thread count. They
should also refrain from taking excessively hot or cold showers, in order to avoid inflammation. Kris Campbell is founder and managing director of Hale & Hush, a skin care line dedicated to sensitive and health-challenged skin. She trains, writes for trade publications and speaks at trade events on a variety of subjects including ingredients and health challenges. Campbell has worked for an FDA cosmeceutical lab and helped clients in creating their brands. She currently formulates for Hale & Hush.
References 1. Misery, L., Sibaud, V., Merial-Kieny, C., & Taieb, C. (2011). Sensitive Skin in the American Population: Prevalence, Clinical Data, and Role of the Dermatologist. International Journal of Dermatology, 961-967. Retrieved from ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21781068. 2. dermnetnz.org/reactions/sensitive-skin.html. 3. Bakkali, F., Averbeck, S., Averbeck, D., & Idaomar, M. (n.d.). Biological Effects of Essential Oils – A Review. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 446-475. Retrieved from ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17996351. 4. Zhong, W., Maradit-Kremers, H., Sauver, J., Yawn, B., Ebbert, J., Roger, V., . . . Rocca, W. (n.d.). Age and Sex Patterns of Drug Prescribing in a Defined American Population. Mayo Clinic Proceedings. Retrieved from mayoclinicproceedings.org/article/ S0025-6196%2813%2900357-1/abstract. 5. Walker, L. The Skin Care Ingredient Handbook (Revised & Expanded Edition) (p. 65). Allured Books 2014.
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SAMPLE CLIENT INTAKE FORM MEDICAL HISTORY ______________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________ By adding a couple additional questions to the standard Intake Form, the skin care professional will have information regarding where a client’s skin conditions come from. This can more effectively help you determine the best treatment plan to achieve their desired skin care results. You must be aware if your client has any of the conditions listed below, as they all have possible connections to various skin problems. Contraindications to these medical issues and medications may arise from treatments or products.
Are you currently under the care of a physician? YES NO If yes, for what? ______________________________________________________________________________________________ Are you currently under the care of a dermatologist? YES NO If yes, for what? ______________________________________________________________________________________________
Do you have any of the following medical conditions? Please check all that apply. Do you have any other health problems or medical conditions? Please list. Cancer Herpes HIV/AIDS Seizure Disorder Thyroid Imbalance Rosacea Diabetes Arthritis Keloid Scarring Hepatitis Blood Clotting Abnormalities Skin Cancer High Blood Pressure Frequent Cold Sores Skin Disease / Skin Lesions Hormone Imbalance Any active infection Please list:
____________________________________________ ____________________________________________ ____________________________________________ ____________________________________________
Have you ever had an allergic reaction to any of the following? Check all that apply and describe the reaction you experienced. Food is an important factor, as many natural and organic items are now put into skin care products along with clean colors and fragrance. Food (if so, what type)?
___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ Latex Aspirin Lidocaine Hydrocortisone Hydroquinone or skin bleaching agents Have you ever had a skin reaction to a fragrance, mental reaction or dislike for a fragrance? If so, which fragrance?
___________________________________________ Many people are allergic to fragrance or offended by specific types. This is important to know so you can use a fragrance free product or schedule them at the start of the day before using fragrances that may linger in the treatment space.
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DELICATE DEALINGS
MEDICATIONS
Do you form thick raised scars from cuts or burns? YES ❏ NO
Are you taking any oral medications? YES NO If yes, please list: __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ It’s important to know about clients’ contraindications for products or services. For example, if they are on a medication that causes photosensitivity, avoid aggressive treatments like microdermabrasion or chemical peels. Have you ever used Accutane? YES NO If yes, when did you last use it? __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________
Are you taking any topical medications? YES NO If yes, please list. __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ Note any medications that contraindicate with products and therapies.
These factors can be contraindicated with hair removal for some treatments and/or products.
What, if any, herbal supplements do you use regularly?
LIFESTYLE FACTORS
Herbal supplements can also cause skin conditions such as rashes and inflammation.
Where do you live? __________________________________________________
MORE HISTORY
List any hobbies __________________________________________________
Have you used any of the following for hair removal in the last six weeks? Shaving Waxing Electrolysis Plucking/Tweezing Stringing Depilatories Have you had any recent tanning or sun exposure that changed the color of your skin? YES NO Have you recently used any self-tanning lotions or similar treatments? YES NO Contraindications with certain treatments and products are associated with hair removal.
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Have you ever had hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin), hypopigmentation (lightening of the skin) or marks after physical trauma? YES NO If yes, please describe: __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ Knowing where, when and how pigmentation occurred will help determine how aggressively you can treat skin and if you can use certain types of products, as you could do more harm in some cases. Are you pregnant or trying to become pregnant? YES NO Are you breastfeeding? YES NO Are you using oral contraception? YES NO
Accutane is contraindicated with many treatments and products.
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This may lead to contraindications with more aggressive peeling and extractions as well.
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What is your profession? __________________________________________________ A client’s skin may be affected by their surroundings. Knowing their occupation, climate exposure or regular hobbies will help you soothe their skin as well as protect it, as they are going to continually expose the skin to those conditions. For example, if a client lives in extreme cold, skis frequently or is regularly exposed to harsh weather and sun, you should pick products and treatments that hydrate or provide sun and barrier protection. An individual who works in a kitchen over a hot stove may have inflamed skin, so you would avoid products that contraindicate with this condition.
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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA
Philadelphia, PA APRIL 10 & 11, 2016 Pennsylvania Convention Center
The Must-Attend Skin Care and Spa Professional Conference
Main Stage Lectures & Demos Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Medspa Conference Wellness Conference
Image Conference Spa Decor Conference AIA Conference Product Focused Training Demo Stages Hundreds of Exhibitors
P R ES E N T E D BY :
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S H H H . . . YO U R
True
Age
IS SHOWING
T R E AT M E N T S F O R T H E NECK AND CHEST
BY
DASHA SAIAN
T
hough the neck and dĂŠcolletĂŠ are
with incorporating a proper skin care regi-
exposed to the sun, wind and cold
men, it is important to learn to firm and tone
weather just like the face, these delicate
the muscles to hold the skin tightly. As we
areas are often ignored in professional treat-
age, the neck and jowls may start to show
ments and home care rituals. The reality is
horizontal wrinkles and folds, beginning to
they are easily susceptible to dehydration
droop due to daily gravitational pull and
and sun damage and must be protected
the slowing down of collagen production.
with moisturizers and sunscreen.
While many women take very good care of
Signs of aging in the neck area are a result of muscles losing elasticity. Along
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the skin on their face, the neck and chest often reveal their true age.
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SKIN
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SHH... YOUR TRUE AGE IS SHOWING
Along with incorporating a proper skin care regimen, it is important to learn to firm and tone the muscles to hold the skin tightly.
SIGNS OF AGING Because the skin on the neck and décolleté is thinner and less elastic than skin in other areas, it’s more susceptible to environmental damage, which is compounded by the fact that this area is much more likely to be neglected and unprotected. The most common types of skin problems that are seen on the neck and chest are: Hyperpigmentation (brown spots) Wrinkles and crinkliness Horizontal “necklace lines” Redness and blotchiness Elastosis
SPECIALIZED SPA TREATMENTS
Skin tags More complicated issues such as cutis rhomboidalis nuchae (leathery deep wrinkling
There are a variety of anti-aging neck and
Fruit enzymes, such as bromelain (from
on the back of the neck) and poikiloderma
décolleté treatments that can be done in
pineapple) and papain (from papaya) eat
of Civatte (usually affecting the front and
the spa to address these issues. Most cli-
away at the oils and dry skin to expose a
sides of the neck in fair-skinned clients) are
ents require a series of treatments to see
refreshed, clear complexion.
benign, resulting from long-term sun dam-
results, so it is advised to suggest a pack-
Enzyme masks are generally gentler
age and require gentle care.
age deal of three to six treatments. These
and safer than acids and don’t thin the
treatments range from the most basic en-
skin like Retin-A. A good natural enzyme
zyme exfoliation to laser rejuvenation, and
mask brightens the skin, activates cellular
prices can be set according to your area.
function, increases circulation, fades dis-
Learn about the latest equipment to rejuvenate sagging skin in the neck and chest areas in “Give Your Clients a Lift” on page 88. 26
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coloration and leaves the skin feeling and
EXFOLIATION
looking fresh, smooth and healthy. Dry enzyme masks activated moments before
To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians
application, usually based on marine clay,
should start the cleansing and exfoliation
bentonite or oats, are a great option.
routine upwards from the décolleté and
Just like a chemical peel, administer an
continue to the face. Enzymes are a won-
enzyme peel with caution, making sure the
derful natural way to safely exfoliate the
client is a good candidate for the product.
skin, clear pores, get rid of excess oils and
Some menopausal clients may experience
slough off dry and dead skin for a healthy
redness and sensitivity on the décolleté, so
cell turnover.
it’s better to hold off on deep exfoliation.
SKIN
|
SHH... YOUR TRUE AGE IS SHOWING
At home, clients should cleanse the area daily and exfoliate with an enzyme mask once every three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from bust to face. Moisturizer and sunscreen should always be applied to prevent sun damage and wrinkles.
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SHH... YOUR TRUE AGE IS SHOWING
The average time needed for enzymes to
PHOTOREJUVENATION
do their job is seven to 10 minutes. This treatment can be repeated once every
An intense pulsed light laser (IPL) can di-
three weeks, and can be added to any
minish redness, hyperpigmentation and
basic facial for as little as $20.
stimulate mild collagen growth. A series of six treatments is recommended and
MASKS
the cost is usually around $500 per treatment. Like all laser treatments, it’s best to
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Décolleté products shouldn’t be too harsh,
do this in the winter. The client will need
since the skin on that area is thin. It’s prefer-
maintenance treatments when brown spots
able to have fragrance-free, hypoallergenic
reappear, usually once or twice a year.
Ablative fractional lasers have a four to eight day downtime period and give better results for the crinkly areas on the neck.
products to avoid negative reactions. Pure
Fractional lasers also treat wrinkles
collagen masks are perfect hydrating anti-
and post-acne scars. Non-ablative frac-
aging treatments for the neck and chest. A
tional lasers may cost as much as $5,000
The cost of this procedure is usually
facial treatment using a specialized mask
for six treatments and have a two day
$1,000-$2,000 per treatment, and a series
tightens skin, moisturizes, plumps and
downtime. This laser will take two to
of four is recommended over a six-month
reduces wrinkles for up to three weeks.
six months to achieve the best results.
time span. Stay safe and do not work over
Ideally, clients should return for a facial
Ablative fractional lasers have a four to
the thyroid or the breasts with mechani-
every three to four weeks, and the average
eight day downtime period and give better
cal equipment to avoid stimulation of the
cost is $150-$180 for a 60-90 minute facial.
results for the crinkly areas on the neck.
lymphatic system.
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you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #178 on reader service card Say
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SKIN
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SHH... YOUR TRUE AGE IS SHOWING
The key to anti-aging neck and décolleté treatments is finding a balance, as varying methods will work differently for each individual.
compression garment for the face can help
20 reps each day for a toned neck.
reverse this pull. This mechanical mode of
The key to anti-aging neck and décolleté
lifting the neck works well when the client
treatments is finding a balance, as vary-
is doing housework or sleeping.
ing methods work differently for each
The best way to prevent sagging and
individual. Try some of these treatments,
reduce preexisting damage is to do simple
products, machines and exercises to re-
exercises that tone the muscles. Clients typi-
verse the signs of your clients’ age!
cally see results within the first month of consistent exercises. To target the “turkey neck,” focus the exercises on the platysma. This muscle extends
GRAVITY-DEFYING EXERCISES
from the pectoral and deltoid muscles and
Dasha Saian is the co-founder
rises over the clavicle, proceeding upward
and CEO of SAIAN®, and has
in a slanting manner along the sides of the
more than 17 years of experi-
neck. This group of muscles holds the neck
ence in the spa industry. She
and jawline upward in youth but may separate
is a licensed esthetician, certified nutrition
during the normal aging process, leading to
and wellness consultant and family herbalist.
The gravitational pull responsible for wrin-
a drooping chin, sagging jawline and loose
Saian gives lectures and classes internation-
kles on the neck and bust is exacerbated by
skin under the chin. The easiest exercise to
ally and contributes to global trade publi-
sleeping on the side or on high pillows, also
tone this muscle is “kissing the ceiling”: Tilt
cations. She is an expert adviser on natural
causing wrinkles between the breasts and
the head up and extend the lips, as if kissing
living, the alkaline diet, alternative oncology
on the neck. Wearing a neck bandage or
the ceiling. It’s advised to do three rounds of
protocols and positive body image.
A COMPLETE
SKINCARE SOLUTION
Featuring advanced skincare devices with a full line of innovative, naturally -derived skincare products to solve every skin problem imaginable!
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TARGETED AND EFFECTIVE
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Eye Rejuvenator
Microdermabrasion
METHODE BRIGITTE KETTNER offers a full range of targeted and effective skincare products and supporting devices—facial cleansing brushes, eye contouring device, and a hand-held microdermabrasion unit. Driven by her passion for a homeopathic approach to skincare, Ms. Brigitte Kettner, a well-known German biologist and skincare specialist, developed Methode Brigitte Kettner. MBK skincare has been successfully sold throughout Europe for over three decades and continues to gain worldwide international success with sales and training throughout Europe, Asia, and Australia. Methode Brigitte Kettner offers a wide-range of products in five different lines to meet all of your skincare needs and state-of-the-art facial devices to enhance your services!
web: www.mbk-cosmetics.com
Clarifying Brush
MBK truly is your one-stop shop for skincare!
facebook: Methode Brigitte Kettner North America | email: laura.porter@telefieldna.com | phone: 503.646.6345 x125
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Bold. Beautiful. Award-Winning.
Hi-Def Tinted Brow Gel Same award-winning formula with a NEW LOOK! Features strengthening peptides, soft-flex polymers and natural-looking mineral tint to create the perfect brow. 877.909.5274 | revitalash.com Available in 2 shades: Soft Brown and Dark Brown.
©2016 Athena Cosmetics, Inc.
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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA
Dallas, TX MAY 15 & 16, 2016 Arlington Convention Center
The Must-Attend Skin Care and Spa Professional Conference
Main Stage Lectures & Demos Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Medspa Conference Wellness Conference
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USA: 305.443.2322
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MIGHTY MICELLAR The BeautyPrep™ Face Cleanser, a no-rinse cleansing water from jane iredale, provides a deep pore cleanse with nourishing oat amino acids. Ideal for removing makeup and cleansing skin prior to toning and moisturizing, it contains a proprietary micellar water with dual cucumber extracts that gently hydrate, smooth and protect the skin. Awarded an Ecocert natural cosmetics certification, this antioxidant cleanser removes environmental pollutants and helps reduce free radical damage.
844.350.1610 janeiredale.com
WRINKLE SLAYER The Nelly De Vuyst® Lifting Complex Cream is an exclusive synergistic concentrate of multi-peptides designed to boost the production of new collagen and eradicate damages caused by glycation. This advanced youth-enhancing formula intensively restructures aging skin by diminishing deep wrinkles, offering a topical “wrinkle filler” effect from the inside out.
800.263.8888 derme.ca
SkinNews
8 HOURS OF SLEEP IN A BOTTLE
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
Combining peptides and botanical extracts in a convenient airless pump, Sonäge’s R&R PeptidePacked Eye Serum gives clients that “8 hours of sleep” look. Cucumber, algae and amla extracts reduce fine lines, wrinkles and puffiness, increasing elasticity in the skin, strengthening capillaries, fading dark circles and recharging tired eyes. This ultra-rich intensive eye treatment refines and revives for bright, dynamic, flawless eyes.
800.883.5341 sonage.com
CORRECT AND DEFEND AGAINST AGE SPOTS Developed specifically to decrease unwanted pigmentation marks, the innovative Dark Spot Perfector from Janssen Cosmetics contains an active-substance complex made from garden cress and soya. Proven to reduce the development of melanin and lipofuscin, it brightens pigmentation marks without brightening the normal skin around them. With regular use, this intense moisturizing serum gently brightens unsightly age spots and prevents new ones from forming.
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800.728.1257 janssen-cosmetics.com
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Congratulations to the WINNERS of the Much Sought-After Title of
LNE & SPA’S BEST!
Janssen Cosmetics
Lira Clinical MYSTIQ ILUMINATING BEAUTY OIL
HYALURON FLUID
Beauty Oil
Ampoules
RUNNERS-UP:
RUNNERS-UP:
Darphin Caudalie Nelly De Vuyst
mesoestetic USA Babor DR. GRANDEL
Bioslimming
Pure Fiji
SMOOTHING SERUM
Anti-Cellulite
SAIAN
RUNNERS-UP:
Danné Montague-King Eve Taylor Phytoceane
ACNE SPOT TREATMENT
Acne RUNNERS-UP:
Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Control Corrective Shankara 36
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HYDRATING BODY LOTION
Body Lotion RUNNERS-UP: Biotone Jindilli HydroPeptide
Nominated by our Educational Committee and decided by you, our amazing readers, hundreds of products went head to head in a record 42 categories.
You let your voice be heard and now we proudly present the winners.
Bella Schneider Beauty Image Skincare
ILUMA INTENSE BRIGHTENING CRÈME
Brightening
POT OF GOLD SCRUB
Caviar of Switzerland INTENSIVE EYE CREAM
Body Exfoliant
Eye Cream
RUNNERS-UP:
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emerginC GlyMed Plus DermaQuest
RUNNERS-UP:
Shira Esthetics Bio Jouvance Paris DermaConcepts
RevítaLash HI-DEF TINTED BROW GEL
Brow RUNNERS-UP: Cailyn Kryolan Blinc
Vital Assist Skin Care
M.A.D Skincare
DAILY PROBIOTIC CLEANSER
Cleanser RUNNERS-UP:
Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Skin Authority Bio France Lab
ENVIRONMENTAL DETOX MASK
Detox RUNNERS-UP: Diamond Way Ayurveda Voya EcoGenics
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LNE & Spa’s Best Product 2016 WINNERS
Repêchage ALGO MIST HYDRATING SEAWEED FACIAL SPRAY
HydraFacial HYDRAFACIAL MD®
Face Mist
Equipment for the Face
RUNNERS-UP:
RUNNERS-UP:
iS Clinical Juice Beauty Agera Labs
Bio-Therapeutic TAMA Research Altair Instruments
ORLY BB CRÈME
FarmHouse Fresh
Nail Polish Trends RUNNERS-UP:
STRAWBERRY LAVENDER FACIAL BUFFING BISCUITS
Deborah Lippmann Inglot Dr.’s REMEDY
Face Exfoliant RUNNERS-UP: PFB Vanish FOREO Skin Script RX
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Grande Naturals GRANDEHAIR
Hair Spa RUNNERS-UP:
Balanced Guru ReGenesis by RevítaLash Blue Beautifly
Satin Smooth PEBBLE WAX
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Candy Coat Beauty Depilève Nufree finipil
Endo-Systems LPG INTEGRAL CELLU M6
Equipment for the Body RUNNERS-UP:
Éminence Organic Skin Care
Silhouet-Tone Viora Infra-Slim
BALANCING MASQUE DUO
Innovative RUNNERS-UP: Thalgo Maxcara Dr. Jeff
m’lis
DAILY ESSENTIALS PACKETS
Inner Beauty RUNNERS-UP:
Recellergy Pure Inventions GOLD COLLAGEN
Grande Naturals
GRANDELASH-MD
Lash Conditioner Line RUNNERS-UP: RevítaLash RapidLash JB Lashes
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LNE & Spa’s Best Product 2016 WINNERS
Bella Lash
Nouveau Contour
INTELLISEAL
Lash Extensions Care RUNNERS-UP: Misencil CilsFrance NovaLash
ilike organic skin care
HYALURONIC TIME ERASE COMPLEX GEL MASK
Mask
INTELLIGENT
Permanent Makeup RUNNERS-UP:
Bellaire Industry SofTap Permanent Cosmetics Purebeau USA
RUNNERS-UP:
Sothys .. Osmosis Pur Medical Skincare Rejuvi Lab
Matis Men
ENERGIZING SHOWER GEL 2 IN 1
Men’s RUNNERS-UP:
Organic Male OM4 RA for Men .. Menaji
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BioPhotas CELLUMA RX
Light Therapy RUNNERS-UP: Theralight LightStim Pulsaderm
Viktoria DéAnn
PEPTI-CORRECT HP
Peptides
Silhouet-Tone NEWSTREAM SERENITY
TiZO
FACIAL MINERAL SUNSCREEN
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HydroPeptide Hale Cosmeceuticals Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research
Sun Care
RUNNERS-UP: Gharieni EquiPro Oakworks
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COOLA MDSolarSciences Carefree Naturals
France Laure
Sesha Skin Therapy
Lip Treatment
Moisturizer
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IMAGINE EYE & LIP PERFECT SERUM
Grande Naturals June Jacobs Spa Collection Martinni Beauty
Spa Table
CLINICAL ADVANCED ANTIOXIDANT CREAM
DermAware Nature Pure Labs Christina USA
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LNE & Spa’s Best Product 2016 WINNERS
South Seas
Bon Vital’
PREMIER SILENT SPRAY TAN SYSTEM
COCONUT MASSAGE OIL
Massage
Contours Rx
RUNNERS-UP:
MEDICAL GRADE INSTANT EYELID CORRECTING STRIP
Biotone Sranrom Sombra
Eye Patch
Spray Tanning RUNNERS-UP: Infinity Sun Norvell Tan In The Raw
RUNNERS-UP: Repêchage Chella SilcSkin
MEG 21
TOP OF HAND TREATMENT
TRIFECTA
Hand
Serum
RUNNERS-UP:
jane iredale alessandro International Spa Revolutions
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RUNNERS-UP:
Rejuvi Lab Skin Fitness Therapy Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts
(h2t)
NATURAL PUMPKIN AND 30% MULTI FRUIT COMPLEX PEEL
Peel RUNNERS-UP:
PCA Skin Le Mieux Bella Schneider Beauty
Kerstin Florian
Booker Software
REJUVENATING SPIRULINA MASQUE
PICTURE PERFECT ANTI-AGING THERMAL SPRINGS MUD MASK
Wellness
Mud
Spa Software
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Elina Organics 21 drops Mio Skincare
BOOKER PLATFORM
Clayspray Éminence Organic Skin Care Naturopathica
Milano Software Spaware Salonware Software MINDBODY Online
Rhonda Allison
Biodroga
Makeup
Sunless Glow
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ILLUMA COLOUR
Synergie Minerals Alex Cosmetic Lady Burd
Jenetiqa Luxury Skin Care
SPA DELUXE
Kate Somerville Gleam by Melanie Mills Karora Cosmetics
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SPA of the MONTH HEALING WATERS, COLUMBIA, S.C.
W
hile working as a trauma nurse, Amanda
Independently owned by Palmetto Health Baptist
Gorecki, MSN, ARNP saw many patients
Parkridge, and located on its campus, Healing Waters
suffering due to poor lifestyle choices.
Columbia offers patients and spa guests alike top-notch
Inspired by a passion to help others implement healthy
day spa and esthetic services along with plastic surgery.
changes and live their best life, Gorecki and her hus-
This, says president and founder Amanda Gorecki, is all
band John Gorecki, M.D., created Healing Waters.
with the mission to “inspire transformational change and
A luxurious spa offering medical procedures and es-
build lasting relationships with our guests and patients.�
thetic treatments with a focus on well-being, Healing Waters has locations in Wichita, Kan., Durham, N.C.,
by Raquel Levy
and most recently in Columbia, S.C.
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SPA OF THE MONTH
“To reduce stress, Palmetto Health patients enjoy a complimentary 15-minute massage by Healing Waters therapists or a complimentary signature lotion if a therapist was unavailable during their stay.”
PILLARS OF HEALTH To achieve this transformational change, Healing Waters is led by four guiding principles: Calm, Balance, Correct and Restore. Guests are encouraged to calm an anxious mind, balance their daily lives, correct bad habits and restore healthy living. These are reflected in every part of the spa experience and woven into each esthetic service or plastic surgery procedure. The signature Body Rituals (90 minutes), one for each principle, incorporate the spa’s own body line along with meditation, steam therapy and full body masks. With signature Calm, Balance, Correct and Restore body scrubs and lotions used in each respective treatment, guests are treated to the ritual that best suits their needs. The Calm Warm Stone ritual relaxes the body with hot stone and Swedish massage methods while the
Also based on the four guiding principles,
RevitalEyez Eye Treatment, microdermabra-
Balance Hot Poultice ritual is a soothing
the line is branched in four categories: cor-
sion and an extended neck, shoulder and
Thai herbal treatment and massage to re-
rect for excess sebum or acne, calm for sen-
foot massage.
lease lifeless energy. Guests are treated to
sitive skin, balance for combination skin and
an invigorating pressure point massage with
restore for anti-aging. Tailored to clients’ skin concerns and
Body Ritual and hydrating paraffin packs
schedules, the Petite (30 minutes) Luxe (60
Joined by the same mission of transforma-
melt away stress with a gentle massage
minutes) and Power (90 minutes) facials in-
tional healing and beauty inside and out, the
in the Restore Warm Paraffin Body Ritual.
corporate the line. Including cleanser, toner,
spa is composed of an esthetics side and a
scrub, mask, eye gel and moisturizer, the
medical one. Massages, yoga, facials and nail
Petite Facial is perfect for clients on the go
services mingle with Botox, fillers and laser
or a great first time facial. The Luxe Facial
treatments including peeling and hair removal.
MADE-TO-CURE
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TREATING FORWARD
warm bamboo sticks in the Warm Bamboo
Along with their signature body line, Healing
includes this along with exfoliation, serum,
Skilled nurses and doctors perform
Waters developed their own skin care line
extractions to alleviate clogged pores and
plastic surgery procedures like breast aug-
to treat aging, acne, rosacea and more.
a neck and shoulder massage for ultimate
mentation, lift or reduction, male breast
Gorecki says the line was formulated to
relaxation. The most complete and custom-
reduction, liposuction, cellulite reduction,
offer the best skin care solutions available.
ized facial offering, the Power Facial also
mole removal and skin grafting, a variety of
“It was developed based on the needs we
includes three serums, two masks, unlimited
facial procedures such as nose and eyelid
encountered regularly in our guests.”
extractions, a Hydrating Lip Treatment and
surgery, brow lifts, fat grafting and many
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SPA OF THE MONTH
more. “Our medical aesthetics is strong largely because of our nurses that are truly gifted with injectable such as Botox and dermal fillers,” shares Gorecki. “We have many long-standing patients that wouldn’t consider going anywhere else.”
ents of children in the pediatric unit each
“Joined by the same mission of transformational healing and beauty inside and out, the spa is composed of an esthetics side and a medical one.”
In an ever changing, technologically ad-
mitted to helping women of all walks of life achieve wellness and empowerment. Active gram provides a network of resources for all
changes frequently. “Our medical side regu-
To reduce stress, Palmetto Health patients
women, including complimentary and discreet
larly introduces new treatments as technol-
enjoy a complimentary 15-minute massage
spa services for victims of domestic violence.
ogy advances,” she says. “We want to offer
by Healing Waters therapists or a compli-
The program gives back time, energy and chari-
our guests and patients the best experience
mentary signature lotion if a therapist was
table contributions, as well as encouraging oth-
possible. As newer, better products and
unavailable during their stay. For new moms,
ers to make a difference in any way possible.
technology become available we introduce
a complimentary in-room facial and 30-min-
them into our menu.”
ute massage, or massage voucher valid for
A THRIVING PARTNERSHIP Located within Palmetto Health Baptist
three months following delivery, is provided
GUIDING TOWARD SUCCESS
by Healing Waters.
COMMUNITY CONNECTION
Parkridge, part of the most comprehen-
|
The Pure Living Program, the philanthropic outreach of its skin care line, is com-
across all locations of Healing Waters, this pro-
vanced industry, the medical service menu
48
December,” adds Gorecki.
Enjoying a staff to guest ratio of 1/1 at any given time, Healing Waters staff are trained to offer exceptional customer service. Beginning with a 90-day training, team
sive health care system in the South Carolina
Healing Waters also carries a passion for
members also receive quarterly evaluations
Midland region, Healing Waters contributes
giving back to the local community. They
to set sales and retention goals. “We have
to the hospital’s renowned patient satisfac-
regularly partner with local charities for do-
a morning huddle daily to discuss the cur-
tion. “Our growth model is based on licens-
nation drives such as homeless shelters, the
rent events,” Gorecki adds. “Then all team
ing partnerships with healthcare systems
local women’s shelter and Dress for Success.
members participate in a bi-annual, day-long
and hospitals like our recent venture with
“We also partner with the local hospitals to
Brand Promise training where we revisit the
Palmetto Health,” Gorecki says.
provide complimentary services to the par-
meaning, purpose and goals of our brand.”
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SPA OF THE MONTH
MARKETING WELL-BEING In addition to social media, web, TV, print and tourism advertising, Healing Waters’ marketing efforts are complemented with
RUNDOWN
special event sales. To attract new clients and encourage loyal customers to try new
HEALING WATERS
Staff: More than 20 team members,
things, Healing Waters holds an annual Ritual
300 Palmetto Health Pkwy.
estheticians, body therapists, nurses,
Sale every summer and special promotions
Columbia, SC 29212
plastic surgeons, medical esthetic
for “spa holidays” like Christmas, Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day.
physicians. 803.907.7100 healingwaterslife.com
Staff to Guest Ratio: 1/1.
few years ago we did a “get into your skinny
Launch: January 2015
Product Lines: Pure MD Skin Science,
jeans” campaign. We partnered with a lo-
Spa Director: Cory King
Healing Waters Body Line.
cal clothing store and offered a discount on
Size: 7,000 sq. feet.
They partner with other retailers as well for cross promotions, explains Gorecki. “A
Signature Treatments: Pure MD Luxe
jeans to anyone that received [liposuction].” Several membership program options
Facility: 14 treatment rooms: 9 spa, 4
for massages, facials and nail services keep
medical and 1 consulting, luxury lock-
their guests coming back. “The incentive
er room, steam room and living room.
Facial & Healing Waters Body Rituals.
was to keep our guests on a regular regimen, which is mutually beneficial for them and us,” explains Gorecki. “The memberships help build lasting relationships, which is part of our mission, by ensuring that the guest returns to us for service.” 50
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Raquel Levy is the editorial associate at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communications with an emphasis in writing and editing. Levy has been a lifestyle and feature writer for more than five years. Contact her at raquel@lneonline.com.
MICRODERMABRASION THE NEXT GENERATION
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TRUSTED FOR INNOVATION, QUALITY AND DESIGN THE NEW
DELIVERS.
Improve the texture and appearance of your skin with our Vitamin C serum
altairinstruments.com
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Taking Care of
Technophiles Address the Aches and Pains of High-Tech Living by Amanda Clinton Winter
T
echnology is an ever-present force in modern life. If we aren’t sitting for long hours in front of a computer, we’re engaging with our smartphones, reading on our tablets, listening to music on our iPods… While this constant connection to technology provides entertainment and convenience, it comes at a price to our physical well-being, creating aches, pains and musculoskeletal issues from head to toe. While all spas offer massage modalities, some savvy establishments are now highlighting services to specifically address tech-related maladies.
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TAKING CARE OF TECHNOPHILES
TREATMENTS Upper Body Aches, Strains and Pains Pain and stiffness reaching from the neck down to the lower back and everything in between (also known as “tech neck”) is a common side effect of sitting in front of a computer for hours on end, texting and other device use. CG Funk, vice president of product development for national chain Massage Envy, explains that “the posture of hunching and extending the neck out and dropping down puts pressure on the front of the body and stress on the back because it is trying to hold it in place.” Paule Attar Salon & Spa in Bellevue, Wash., offers a special High-Tech Massage menu dedicated exclusively to targeting issues related to technology use. The Luxury High-Tech Massage (60/90 minutes, $75/ $110) focuses on relaxing the neck and
ety and fatigue, all of which can be brought
body. So it can work directly on the muscle
shoulders. For the High-Tech Services Stone
on by sitting still in front of a computer for
causing tension headaches. It also works to
Press (60/90 minutes, $99/$140), basalt river
long hours.
realign the structures of the body if the ten-
rock stones are skillfully used with massage
Cranial sacral therapy (CST) is a modal-
sion has a specific source such as shoulders
strokes to melt tension, relax tense muscles
ity offered at many spas that helps “relieve
or lower back.” The Club Hotel & Spa offers
and tired joints. The technology related
muscle and joint tension in the neck, head
a 60-minute cranial sacral session for $106.
treatments at Paule Attar are tailored to each
and lower back,” according to Funk. This
individual’s needs. “We provide high-tech
modality “uses gentle touch to manipulate
massages specific to the ailments, which
the bones of the skull and the lower spine
we determine at the time we consult with
and pelvis. The goal is to release compres-
the client,” says CEO and Vice President
sion in those areas, which alleviates stress
The repetitive motion of texting and exten-
Heinz Mikulka.
and pain.” Cranial sacral therapy can be
sive hours spent at a computer each day
incorporated into any type of massage ses-
puts strain and pressure on the muscles in
sion at Massage Envy (50 minutes, $69 for
the wrists, fingers, hands, arm and shoul-
members).
ders. This leads to what is termed “tech
Head and Lower Back
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Tech Arm
Tension headaches are essentially stress
“CST is very effective at targeting ten-
arm,” a phenomenon that includes repeti-
headaches caused by tightened muscles in
sion headaches, neck/back pains,” says
tive strain injuries from the fingers up to
the back of the neck and scalp. This muscle
Dawn Carus, manager of The Club Hotel
the shoulders. Other terms used for this
tension originates from numerous sources,
& Spa in Jersey, Great Britain. “CST works
issue include Blackberry thumb and iPad
including poor posture, mental stress, anxi-
to balance and relax all the muscles of the
hand. Funk explains that in order to address
FEBRUARY 2016
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SPA
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TAKING CARE OF TECHNOPHILES
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SPA
the smaller ligaments and joints such as
introduced our Gadget Relief Massage (20
the overworked fingers and wrists, work-
minutes, $33) as an answer to a growing
ing on the larger muscles attached to that
trend of clients complaining of joint pain and
group is an important part of addressing
stiffness in the hands, particularly thumbs
the problem. “Relieving larger areas of
due to overuse of gadgets,” says Carus.
the body like the whole arm alleviates the
“Index fingers are also casualties with re-
pressure on wrist pain,” explains Funk.
petitive mouse clicking, causing strain pain.”
“The therapist works the wrist and thumb, smaller ligaments and joints, trigger point and stripping up past the elbow and even
All Over
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TAKING CARE OF TECHNOPHILES
“CST works to balance and relax all the muscles of the body. So it can work directly on the muscle causing tension headaches.”
into the shoulder.” “Most of our (tech service) clients experi-
In 2012, California based spa chain Burke
ence problems with their hands, fingers and
Williams incorporated an enhancement spe-
neck pains,” says Mikulka. One option on
cially designed to melt away technology-
muscles have an opportunity to relax and
the High-Tech Massage menu at Paule Attar
based muscle tension in ALL affected areas
accept deeper work.” Described on their
is the Deluxe Mouse-Tired Hand Treatment
called the Dot.com Enhancement ($20).
menu as “the ultimate solution to living
($40), a mini-treatment focusing specifically
“Dot.com includes a bolstering system that
with technology,” the Dot.com massage en-
on the hand.
allows for the chest/pectoral muscles to ex-
hancement incorporates specially designed
This hand massage and manicure is in-
pand while the arm, wrist and neck muscles
stretches and massage tools to relieve the
tended to revitalize hands and fingers after
are worked on,” says Jeri Sydnor, regional
stress and muscle tension developed from
extensive typing and mouse clicking. “We
massage director. “In doing this, the back
working at a computer.
WHEN EAST MEETS WEST
PLEASE VISIT US AT FACE & BODY SPA CONFERENCE CHICAGO, MARCH 12-14 BOOTH #6500
IECS N.Y NEW YORK, MARCH 6-8 BOOTH #200
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Collaboration Of Both Cultures To Better Your Skin Condition
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TAKING CARE OF TECHNOPHILES
Who are
THE CLIENTS? While it seems the clients who can benefit from tech-relief services span the generations, the current target market for such services varies. “We have people from all generations and walks of life enjoying these services,” says Sydnor. However others point out a specific age group. “A majority of our [tech] massage clients are in the 30-50 age bracket and are employed in an office environment,” says Mikulka. Carus concurs, describing the clientele seeking this type of treatment at The Club Hotel & Spa as “most definitely office workers from the 35 to 55 age group
take home tips
specifically.”
Client Feedback
more of this in the coming years.” Share the following tips with your clients to help manage their tech-
Client feedback supports the value of provid-
related symptoms between sessions.
ing tech relief services to clients. According to Mikulka, clients share that “definitely im-
Take a break from the smartphone.
provements in the pain level are achieved and subsequently productivity is improved.”
Stretch individual joints.
Carus points out, “We have had outstanding results and feedback particularly
If you feel pain in the thumb or
from clients after having regular treatments
wrist, ice it to decrease inflammation.
for a few weeks. They maintain positive results with a once-a-week maintenance destress Gadget Relief Massage. Most of our
If you work at a desk job, get up and move every hour.
clients find the biggest improvement is in alleviating the stiffness in the fingers and knuckles and reducing tight muscles.” With the rapid pace of technology’s evolution, the explosion of tech-related
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menu a boost with modalities that cater to today’s technophiles!
Practice proper posture, even if only for a few minutes a day, by sitting up straight instead of hunching over.
Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She
maladies in our society is only going to grow.
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Take a cue from technology and give your
“We’re probably going to see more issues
Read text across from face, rather
has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature
created in the physical body with the use of
than looking down, to avoid putting
and Psychology from Wheaton College in
technology,” says Funk. “People use their
strain on the back and spine.
Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public
phones so much more than even a couple
relations from the University of Miami. Contact
years ago… we’re probably going to see
her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.
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UNCOMPLICATED CLARITY The handheld Microdermabrasion Unit from Methode Brigitte Kettner is gentle and effective at removing dead skin and impurities while helping to even out skin tone and texture. The vacuum lift system increases blood flow, brings oxygen to the surface and stimulates natural collagen production, resulting in a more radiant and youthful complexion. This portable exfoliating device is easy to clean with interchangeable diamond tips for both the face and body.
503.646.6345 x125 mbkskincare.com
BUNDLED UP IN BAMBOO Made with busy professionals in mind, Bath Sheets from The Comphy Co are absorbent, easy to clean and can be bleached. Wrap your clients in comfort after their services with these luxuriously plush bamboo towels.
323.225.8234 comphy.com
EFFORTLESS SKIN ENVY
EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS
SPANews
A new advanced technology permitting nonsurgical, non-invasive and painless skin procedures has arrived in the states. Based on an intra-dermal delivery system of liquid solutions containing active ingredients, the technology behind Derme’s Affinity™ Infusion System reinvents the delivery of esthetic and medical grade chemical peels. Best of all, there is no downtime once the procedure is completed. This system provides an unmatched opportunity to treat the face, neck, cleavage and all other follicle-bearing areas. Clients see visible results after just one procedure.
800.263.8888 derme.ca
SERENELY SMOOTH Derma Swiss’ Relaxing Massage Cream leaves your clients’ skin soft, hydrated and deeply moisturized thanks to shea butter, green tea, sweet almond and safflower seed oil. It provides the perfect texture to facilitate massage movements over the neck, chest, hands and arms. This rich cream can be combined with essential oils for a more aromatic experience.
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800.741.7732 dermaswiss.com
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Skin knows. From the purest ingredients, to our innovative formulations, quality is something the skin can feel. Clients indulge in it. Therapists prefer it.
Call for free samples • 800.253.6466 • www.bonvital.com
®
Performance Health®, Bon Vital’®, Biofreeze®, TheraBand®, the Color Pyramid Design™ and Associated Colors™, TheraPearl®, Pedigenix®, Prossage® and Cramer® Trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its subsidiaries and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2016—Performance Health and Wellness| Holdings. All rights reserved.2016 LNEONLINE.com FEBRUARY
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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #265 on reader service card
• Paraben Free • Dye Free • Unscented • Natural
99%
saw visible difference in their skin after one Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Facial with Micro Silver (patent pending)
92%
saw less irritation after using the Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Calming Cleanser (patent pending)
89%
saw smoother skin after using the Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Serum (patent pending)
DOCTOR TESTED.* CLEAR RESULTS.** *Tests conducted by licensed esthetician under doctor supervision
**Client evaluation and reaction after 28 days of at-home usage *DERMATOLOGIST TESTED
Ag+ Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #196 on reader service card
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www.repechage.com
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ISO
9001 CERTIFIED COMPANY
You
N ! W E
HYDRA 4
速
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FACIAL & AT-HOME PRODUCTS With Micro Silver For Hypersensitive Skin
Our Exclusive Formula Combines Seaweed with Micro Silver to Calm and Soothe Symptoms of Rosacea and Hypersensitive Skin
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LNE & SPA CHAT With Kristy Murrow, PA-C Managing Partner for Mariposa MedSpa in Oklahoma City, Okla., and Edmond, Okla.
HOW CAN YOU DEFINE THE CONCEPT OF YOUR SPA? Mariposa MedSpa is an esthetic medical practice specializing in non-surgical cosmetic services.
HOW MANY TREATMENT ROOMS AND OTHER AMENITIES ARE THERE? We currently have two facilities with a total of 10 treatment rooms and a consultation room at each location.
HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DO YOU HAVE AND WHAT ARE THEIR SPECIALTIES? We have 12 employees, including myself. We also have a physician serving as our medical director. Of the 12, we have two physicians’ assistants, one full-time RN, one part-time RN, two medical assistants, two estheticians, three front office patient coordinators, and one practice administrator.
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WHAT DAILY CHALLENGES DO YOU ENCOUNTER IN YOUR POSITION? Scheduling. Patients may arrive early for their appointment, which can throw off the schedule, or they may be 15 minutes late or more.
HOW DO YOU MANAGE STRESS THAT WORK BRINGS INTO YOUR LIFE? Stress? What stress? Just kidding! I wish I could say this was my strong suit, but unfortunately it’s not. I do try to take good care of myself, eat right, take an occasional ‘mental health’ day (stay-cation), and also a fair amount of massages seem to do the trick.
WHAT TAKES MOST OF YOUR TIME EVERY DAY? I spend the majority of my day and week on patient care. I block two afternoons per week to focus on the administrative tasks, meetings, planning and strategizing for the future.
WHAT IS YOUR HIRING PROCESS? I believe in hiring slow and letting go fast. We often interview someone 2-3 times before making a decision. Occasionally we ask them to come observe the office for a few hours to see what we do and determine if it’s a good fit for them. This also gives us a chance to observe them with our other staff.
HOW DO YOU SELECT THE PEOPLE THAT WORK WITH YOU? We look for people that are smart, dependable and have a strong work ethic. I also look for good communicators who truly love people and want to serve them. I’d rather train someone to do things my way than hire someone with a lot of bad habits I’ll have to break.
HOW DO YOU EVALUATE EMPLOYEES? We evaluate all employees after 90 days and then annually after that. We use a self-evaluation form that lets the staff member rate themselves on the same criteria that I use to evaluate them. It’s interesting to see how the employee views their work compared to how I see their work. It is also a good tool for open conversation between employees and myself. They also have a sheet to complete with questions relating to their work goals, training they’d like to receive, additional services they’d like to provide, what they like best and least about their job and any other comments they’d like to make.
HOW DO YOU TRAIN THE STAFF? We have our staff complete didactic trainings via webinars, online training modules and attendance
at local/regional/national training conferences. We also block one half day each month for our staff meeting and training.
WHAT ARE YOUR RETAIL GOALS? I always strive for our retail to be 20 percent of our overall revenue.
WHAT INCENTIVES DO YOU HAVE FOR YOUR STAFF TO REACH THESE GOALS? We pay commission for products and services that are upsold to patients. In addition, we have a bonus structure that they can earn monthly and quarterly by hitting their sales goals. We also do staff contests and award cash prizes, gift cards and free products or services.
WHERE IS THE RETAIL AREA LOCATED? Near the front check-in area. We also have a tester bar where patients can sample products and staff can individualize their skin care regimen.
WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR MARKETING TECHNIQUES? We use a fairly diversified marketing strategy. We market externally via TV commercials and have a good Internet presence. We also have expanded our social media and digital marketing focus this
past year with great results. For internal marketing, we send monthly newsletters, birthday cards and have client events three or four times per year.
HOW DO YOU KEEP PATIENTS LOYAL? I think first and foremost, our level of customer service and treatment results are responsible for patient loyalty. Patients should LOVE how they feel when they’ve spent time with you and that’s the kind of experience we always strive to give. We also offer periodic specials to help our patients afford services they may have been waiting to do.
WHAT ADVICE COULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WHO WOULD LIKE TO MANAGE A SPA? • Be in it for the right reasons. You need to want to make a difference in the lives of your clients. • Hire only the BEST people and invest in them with training and professional growth opportunities. • Always watch your “numbers”— revenue, stats, cash flow, expenses… numbers don’t lie and you’ll be able to make better business decisions. • Remember GRATITUDE. Everything that happens is for a reason. Learn from the challenges and celebrate the successes!
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PROMOTION
LNE&SPA PROFILES
Vision + Action Customizable, Accessible, Easy to Use: How Lisa VanBockern created
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Created by an esthetician, to fulfill estheticians’ needs. As an esthetician or spa owner, do you dream of an effective, results-driven skin care line that allows you to choose the products you truly want, with no minimum orders and
the clinical skin care line
convenient shipping costs?
estheticians were longing for.
This was Lisa VanBockern’s dream as well. A dream she
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made a reality.
PROMOTION
Lisa began her career as an esthetician with a passion for helping others, seeking to make a difference and educate clients on the root causes of their skin concerns. While working at a med spa, Lisa grew frustrated with limited options from the spa’s skin care line. “I wasn’t crazy about the line I was using, and the minimum opening orders that most skin care companies required made it difficult to switch lines,” she says. “I knew a very good chemist, so I asked him what it took to make skin care and he told me, ‘Just write your wish list!’” After years of planning and formulating, Skin Script Skin Care was born and designed to treat anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, sun damage, teen and adult acne and rosacea.
Customizable: A Unique Concept Easy to Use: Intuitive Education
Skin Script is an easy to use professional clini-
understands the independent esthetician. They
cal skin care line utilizing retinols, glycolics,
allow estheticians to pick and choose their
lactics, salicylics and natural lighteners and
favorite products without commitment to a
brighteners, with a twist. Skin care profes-
full line, keeping cash flow where it belongs:
Lisa believes in the value of education and
sionals can entirely customize a treatment
in their business.
partners with professionals, working hand
regimen for their client’s skin conditions. They are best known for their fruit puree enzymes, ranging in a variety of strengths from mild to aggressive. Lisa’s philosophy combines enzymes, acids and mechanical exfoliation, in gentler forms, to treat a variety of skin conditions without traumatizing the skin.
Accessible: A Mindful Approach With no minimum orders, a flat $5 shipping charge and friendly sales representatives only a telephone call away, Skin Script values and
in hand to provide all the education needed
“It’s not so much about the dollar for me, how much I can sell, it’s how much I can change skin and help estheticians.”
to excel. Becoming a critical thinker is key to evaluating each client and creating a personalized protocol using the product. Skin Script offers training via an interactive software system known as Skin Script 101. Once registered, estheticians have 30 days to complete a four hour interactive training at their own pace. “We created this program so our clients could receive training anywhere, while on the road, in the middle of the night, or on their mobile devices.” For Lisa, the soul of Skin Script is about making a true difference. “I care about people’s skin and changing it for the better,” she shares. “It’s not so much about the dollar for me, how much I can sell, it’s how much I can change skin and help estheticians.”
SKIN SCRIPT RX TEMPE, AZ
480-543-1121 skinscriptrx.com For professionals only.
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STEPS TO
Success ACTION PLAN FOR
NEW SPA MANAGERS BY DORI SOUKUP
H
undreds of thousands of people
skills, they continue their education so they
choose a career path in the spa
can be noticed and advance their career.
industry, with new positions being
Most professionals get promoted be-
filled every day. Among these tal-
cause they are good at what they do, not
ented individuals, some aspire to climb the
because they are good managers. As a
leadership ladder to become managers,
matter of fact, when a spa professional
directors, and maybe even own their own
gets promoted he or she is rarely trained to
spa. These professionals are committed,
become a successful manager. This poses
focused, driven and passionate people.
a challenge for all new managers. They
They have a purpose and take the appropri-
work hard to gain the promotion and then
ate steps to make it a reality. Willing to go
they have to figure out how to become a
the extra mile, work hard and sharpen their
great manager.
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STEPS TO SUCCESS
What does it take to become a successful manager? Here are the essentials every new or existing manager needs to take to ensure their success.
1. DEFINING YOUR MANAGEMENT ROLE This is a great start. When you define your management role, you have clarity on what is expected of you and what exactly you need to be doing. This can easily be done by creating a position description. The position description should contain: An overview of the position
2. EXPECTATIONS AND PERFORMANCE MEASURES
goal for each individual, the target becomes
As a manager, there are key performance
tice this, you will be viewed as a manager
indicators you need to constantly review
who cares about the success of the busi-
and measure. They are:
ness and the team.
more manageable and achievable. It’s the duty of a manager to monitor performance by conducting evaluation meetings with the team. When you prac-
Skills required Education and qualifications
Revenue targets for treatments
Responsibilities: financial, operational,
Retail volume
team training, marketing, guest experience,
Volume per guest average
team building, revenue generation, etc.
Retention rate
Must-have characteristics
Referral rates
Once you step into a management role,
Targets and performance measures
Guest satisfaction
you need to continually sharpen your skills.
Employee retention
Education is a key ingredient to success,
It’s wise to have detailed descriptions for
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3. CONTINUING EDUCATION
not only technical education but business
each position within the spa structure.
Monitoring your department and spa num-
as well. Don’t wait for the spa owner to
These should be prepared by the spa own-
bers daily is essential to making sure you
tell you to learn new skills, take the initia-
er, CEO, spa director or consulting firm.
are on target. To be a great manager, you
tive to learn more. Read books, listen to
Someone should take the time to outline
must know your monthly targets and break
CDs, attend seminars and trade shows to
all responsibilities the new manager and
down the goal to the total number of team
continually learn new things. Focusing on
the entire team will take on. Not having
members, so everyone on the team has a
education puts your career on steroids and
them can be a big mistake.
target to reach. When you break down the
enables you to climb the success ladder!
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“Inspired by Nature... realized by Science.”
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card
LUC R ÈCE PHYSICIANS’ AESTHET IC RESEA RCH | 800.626.7546 • www.lucrece.com
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STEPS TO SUCCESS
Success is a choice. You can be a mover and a shaker, or you can just show up, do your job and leave. If you want to be the
4. BECOMING A GREAT COACH
best, you have to do the uncomfortable and go beyond what is expected.
Learning to become a great coach is a must
education, don’t ask, “Am I going to get
if you want a career in management and
my hourly rate if I attend this training?” This
leadership. Developing and building a
is a big mistake and sends the wrong mes-
strong team requires continual coaching.
sage to upper management. I often receive
Knowing when to coach and how to coach
phone calls from disappointed spa owners
your team will keep them sharp and focused
that are going out of their way to educate
on the goals. I highly recommend con-
their team and all they hear is, “Am I going
necting with a great firm that specializes
to get paid?” If someone offered to pay
in spa management training to develop
for me to go to a seminar, I’d be saying,
your coaching skills.
“Great! Thank you! When and where?”
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Don’t shy away from correcting bad
If someone thinks highly enough of
behavior, addressing poor performance
you to invest in your education, don’t blow
or conflicts. If you know how to coach, ad-
it by missing the big picture. Always be
dressing these situations and correcting
open, anticipate needs and don’t wait to
these mistakes can develop a strong team.
be asked or told to do something. Just do
The key is to correct these conflicts in a
it! This practice will take you far and way
motivational and professional manner and
up the leadership ladder.
not a way that is confrontational.
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Just like in sports, every team needs a coach.
If someone is willing to pay for your
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STEPS TO SUCCESS
If someone thinks highly enough of you to invest in your education, don’t blow it by missing the big picture.
5. KNOWING YOUR FINANCIALS
You should look at your department’s Profit
you learn from them and do not repeat
and Loss Statement and make sure it’s fi-
them. You should remember that you are
nancially healthy, meaning profitable!
now on a learning journey to professional growth. Keep an open mind to learning
6. OVERCOMING CHALLENGES
new strategies, being flexible and being
As a new manager, you will no doubt come
tive at all times. If you are serious about
across challenges. But the manner in which you
your management and leadership career,
handle these challenges will build your repu-
the best advice I can give you is to find a
tation and determine how you will be viewed
great mentor to guide you on your path. Be
by your teammates and leaders. Some of the
a great student, and never stop learning!
part of the solution. Set short-term and long-term goals for your career, staying focused and posi-
most common challenges include: Dori Soukup is an executive
Numbers are not everyone’s favorite topic, yet they should be. A great manager is one who pays attention to financial ratios. You
Going from teammate to manager, gaining respect from your team. Learning new responsibilities.
need to monitor: Department profit and expenses
InSPAration Management. She
Feeling overwhelmed.
speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands
Team compensation rate
An important thing to keep in mind is to
of spa professionals experience exponential
Space capacity
not take things too personally. Realize
growth and profits. She can be reached at
Team utilization and capacity
that making mistakes is okay as long as
info@insparationmanagement.com.
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speaker and the founder of
Handling conflict, guest relation issues.
Product cost
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coach, author, professional
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The KEYS
to Retail
SUCCESS
Secrets Revealed by Chris Kolodziejski
When I first started working in the business of cosmetics years ago, I had no idea what moved the needle of success in this arena, and felt like I was running blind. While my business managed to grow revenues by 100 percent a year for the first four years, I really didn’t know what specifically was working and what wasn’t.
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| KEYS TO RETAIL SUCCESS
It was my mentor John Lesniak, who was the vice president of field operations for Lancome, who taught me about the vital factors of success called “keys,” and how these keys can make all the difference between success and failure. By following the principles of these keys, my business continued to grow revenues by 100 percent a year.
How do these “keys” relate to you and your business? Historically, both salons and spas have operated at an 11 percent retail to service ratio. This low ratio translates into lost opportunities for businesses and their clients. The most efficient and cost-effective way to make your business grow is to do more business with existing customers. The following keys can help you determine which of your business’ main drivers are delivering results. Use these keys and watch your business’ growth multiply.
THE “BEAUTY ELEPHANT” 2. Location, Location, Location There are four main legs that make up the Beauty Elephant. If any are missing, your efforts will all come crashing down, like a three-legged elephant. 1. The Beauty Consultant This is the leg where 90 percent of salons and spas fail. If you don’t have someone assigned to retail sales, you aren’t in the retail business. Even if you do everything else perfectly, you will sell merely $1,000 a month in retail if you have the wrong person in this position. With the right person, you can sell $30,000 a month! Why is your beauty consultant so important? Hold a box of your favorite product up to your ear. What do you hear? Nothing. The box never talks. A great beauty consultant brings the product to life, demonstrates it, answers questions and overcomes objections. If you don’t have a beauty consultant, find one now! This person is a vital factor of your business. 78
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Where is your business located? Where is your retail merchandise located? Your business must be in a great location and your retail should be upfront where everyone can see it, sample it and ask questions. Think of theme parks — it’s no coincidence that nearly every ride exits through a gift shop. These parks are clearly telling you that you have to buy their merchandise NOW! 3. Merchandising and Display How does your store look? How are your brands displayed? Merchandize and display like a millionaire if you want to become one. Study the esthetics of any major prestigious department store’s product displays for inspiration. 4. Inventory This is the easiest of the four legs to manage, yet it’s the one that’s most often mismanaged. Being out of stock can
affect total revenue by 20 percent or more each year. If you’re out of your client’s favorite product and they need to have it, they won’t wait for you. They’ll find it somewhere else, and that sale (and possibly any repeat business) is lost forever.
THE SEVEN CARDINAL RULES OF SELLING Now that you understand why the Beauty Consultant is crucial, ensure they adhere to the following rules below, which provide the foundation and training to become a true retail professional. 1. Approach them helpfully. Remember your body language first, because the way you stand and move reinforces the message your client receives even before you speak. Take stock of your appearance and posture, and start by offering helpful information.
Mineral Protection
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BUSINESS
| KEYS TO RETAIL SUCCESS
For a “just-looking” customer, “May I help you?” is a dead end question. Their obvious response is, “No, thank you.” Instead, your opening remark should pave the way for selling. Try something like this: “You have an opportunity to lengthen your lashes in just three weeks. Let me show you.” 2. Look at them and listen in a friendly, gracious manner.
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Nothing cools down a prospective customer faster than a detached, disinterested salesperson. Focus your full attention on your client, and show a friendly interest in her comments and reactions. Pay close attention to what she says, as even the most offhand comment can clue you into a sale. If she says, “My foundation always gets runny and melts when I go out in the sun,” direct her to a foundation that stays in place for many hours and is designed to be climate resistant.
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3. Explain each product slowly and clearly. Tell your client everything they need to know about the product — what it is, what it does, how to apply it, when and how often to use it. Stress the tangible benefits that come from regular use. Don’t try to win her over with extravagant claims. The satisfied client who is truly sold will come back again for further advice from you! 4. Demonstrate the products. The texture, feel and fragrance of a product say more about it than any words. Your testers can do half your selling for you — let them! Claims of a product being “refreshing” or “invigorating” are much more believable to the client when a cooling, replenishing toner penetrates her skin. Some women may seem uncomfortable at first with having a lotion or cream spread on the
––
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back of their hand, so it’s essential for you to act as though you have been doing this your whole life and relax. If you are relaxed, your client will relax too. 5. Build sales by upselling related products. When you have just sold your client a mascara, it’s the perfect time to ask her if she knows what a heated lash curler is. If the answer is no, demonstrate how to use one and you just may add to the sale. Keep asking questions and solving problems, always keeping in mind that you are the beauty expert and she is looking for your expert advice. 6. Keep on selling until the moment they say “Stop.” The moment they let you know they are done, don’t push for the extra sale. They’ll be back again for your excellent knowledge and customer service.
速
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| KEYS TO RETAIL SUCCESS
7. Entice them back. This step is extremely important. There are many ways you can encourage clients to return, by inviting them to special events, selling them exclusive products and teaching them to look their very best. If you follow all seven steps, you are sure to reap the rewards of rapidly increasing income. Keep up the good work by reviewing these seven rules, taking advantage of all the training opportunities available and keeping abreast of current industry advertising and new product developments.
MO NTH LY EVENTS AND DAILY DEMONSTRATIONS
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Why do events always work? Because they create excitement, theater and drama (the good kind). They make it possible for those watching to stand in line to be next. Most importantly, they make your clients more beautiful.
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Consider this: If a woman walks up to a cosmetic counter and is standing, she will spend an average of $35. If you get her to sit in your chair for a quick makeover and teach her how to do it herself, that same woman will spend $135.
“Key” Takeaway Points to Remember Remember, the most important leg of the “Beauty Elephant” is the Beauty Consultant. Having the right people in this position and educating them on the seven cardinal rules of selling will empower your team to achieve new levels of success. When properly combined with demonstrations and other events, these concepts can produce retail to service ratios anywhere from 50 to 100 percent. Happy selling!
Chris Kolodziejski founded Chella in 2003, which has evolved from a sophisticated line of anti-aging skin care to include Chella Brow Bars and the allencompassing 40-product Chella Brow & Eye Collection.
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CHAMPAGNE POWER LUNCH Leading international skin care company and manufacturer Repêchage hosted their annual Champagne Power Lunch at Repêchage Headquarters in Secaucus, N.J. to provide inspiration and insights into upcoming trends for 2016. This year’s speakers included Deborah Carver, CEO and Founder of Creative Age Publications and Dori Soukup, President and CEO of InSPAration Management. Beauty professionals from Poland, Trinidad and Tobago, Romania, India and around the United States joined Lydia Sarfati and the Repêchage team for a day of exciting presentations from industry experts.
800.248.SKIN (7546) repechage.com
BusinessNews
PROFITABLE INDUSTRY EDUCATION
EXPANDING INTO THE FUTURE
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE
Soothe’s Massage-On-Demand service connects clients to over 2,000 licensed and insured massage therapists who come to the their location and deliver 5-star services. Appointments are offered between 8 a.m. until midnight every day of the week, with fixed prices of $99 (60 minutes), $139 (90 minutes), and $169 (120 minutes) per person, regardless of the type of massage selected.
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Graduates of the program learn to think strategically in developing a business model and marketing plan along with an integrated service culture that inspires loyalty in customers and employees.
949.824.5414 info.unx.uci.edu/AMSPACONN.html
“It’s an affordable luxury everyone deserves to have,” says Merlin Kauffman, founder and tech entrepreneur. “Our clients love the high-quality service and easy booking.”
800.960.7668 soothe.com
CLASSIC APPROACH, INNOVATIVE EDUCATION Offering high-level education, the Derma Swiss Institute combines the latest in breakthrough technology and innovation with their wellknown values and European tradition. Providing a long-forgotten classic approach to facial specialist studies, the institute is dedicated to preparing students with an intensive and challenging education. With expert instructors and small classroom settings, the Derma Swiss Institute aims to empower a new breed of estheticians driven by a passion for skin care and perfection.
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Continuing education is invaluable in this rapidly changing industry, especially in the field of spa management. The new University of California Irvine Extension program provides spa owners, directors and practitioners the skills needed to excel in the industry with the Spa & Hospitality Management Certificate Program. Developed and taught by experts, the online program covers all aspects of spa operations, including business planning, marketing, retailing, human resources, finance and customer relations.
800.741.7732 dermaswiss.com |
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GUIDE
Thinking forward to a new era of beauty tech care
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ON THE
CUTTING EDGE Keeping your spa up to date
Welcome to the 21st century by German Segura
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T
oday, technology plays a pivotal role in our daily lives, whether we’re teleconferencing into a meeting or playing a PlayStation 4 game with our kids. From the car we drive to the watch we wear, consumers have learned to adapt to an ever-changing technological environment. What’s more, they now line up for the newest iteration. In the world of beauty, wellness and spa management, the same evolutionary process applies. Embracing the industry’s new technologies is easier than you may think. As a medical spa owner, every day I see the positive impact tech-based protocols have on my bottom line. Since its inception nine years ago, my business has grown by bringing clients leadingedge products and services, recognizing that the internet, social media, and
a 24/7 news cycle have created savvy consumers who research the latest esthetic treatments and ask for them when they walk through our door.
The secret to growing your business Technology-based treatments are currently the fastest-growing segment of the industry. That’s why salons, spas, gyms and health clubs are adding these procedures to their roster of services. It’s clear that investing in new, nonsurgical therapies and technologies is the best way to retain and expand your customer base. With 12,000 Gen Xers turning 50 every day according to the International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine, and the U.S. Census Bureau
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projecting that the Gen X population (ages 34–54) will peak at 65.8 million in 2018, the writing is on the wall. Capitalizing on the latest technologies for anti-aging, facial rejuvenation, fat and cellulite removal, skin resurfacing and body sculpting will put significant dollars in your register.
Investing in the future The future of connecting with postboomer generations lies in technology. Of course, constantly introducing new products and selecting what to purchase or lease will take research, planning and due diligence. Before committing to any manufacturer or product, you need to align your needs with client demand. Review your patient profiles, treatment histories
and local trade-area demographics to pinpoint areas of opportunity. This will help you quantify current and future demand for tech-based approaches to permanent hair removal, skin resurfacing, anti-aging and facial rejuvenation, fat and cellulite reduction, vein and mole removal and even permanent makeup. Among other things to consider, keep in mind the client satisfaction rate, costs of replaceable parts, service contracts, fine prints and if the equipment can be easily upgraded when the newest model is introduced. This way, you eliminate extra costs to your business while providing clients with the most advanced and effective procedures for achieving optimal results. For more on choosing a manufacturer, see “Beauty Arsenal” on page 98.
Since equipment services require a larger investment, create a spreadsheet from which to ascertain financial viability. Compare your costs against projected revenue growth from protocols that usually require multiple treatments as well as regular maintenance visits, and you’ll see just how much you’ll bolster your bottom line by embracing today’s newest esthetic technologies. German Segura is the owner of Danik MedSpa & Cosmetic Surgery in Pembroke Pines, Fla. He is a prominent figure in South Florida’s beauty industry and a frequent lecturer/contributing writer on issues ranging from marketing and entrepreneurship to best practices and leading-edge treatments. For more information visit danikmedspa.com or call 954.432.4343. LNEONLINE.com
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GIVE
YOUR
CLIENTS A LIFT By Caroline Canetti
One of the top concerns for spa clients “of a certain age� is how to combat sagging skin without going under the knife. Before plastic surgery and advancements in skin care, Old Hollywood actresses would use tape on their hairline to lift their brows higher or hairpins to tightly pull back their hair, which would tighten their face as well. Today, women are taking drastic measures and heading to plastic surgeons in record numbers to stay youthful.
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As skin care technology advances, spas are offering women a wide variety of options to lift and tighten their skin without going to extremes. Among the most popular treatments are microcurrent, radiofrequency, lasers and ultrasound therapies. “With the growing field of antiaging and technology creating less expensive, less invasive treatments — many of which have little to no downtime — women especially are asking for these procedures by name,” says skin care educator and esthetician Tomi Murphy. “There seems to be a growing awareness and media coverage of these types of treatments.”
MICROCURRENT FOR THE FACE For clients who want an instant pickme-up, Angela Cortright, principal of Spa Gregorie’s Day Spas & Salons in Newport Beach and Rancho Santa Margarita, Calif., goes straight for her favorite microcurrent machine. “You really see an immediate lift in your face, so it’s great to promote for weddings, special events, date nights and class reunions,” she says. The device stimulates the muscles to contract as if you’re exercising your face. “It’s like a workout for your face, which means you can’t just do it once and you’re done. It’s best to do it regularly. Typically, after one to two treatments in the spa, the client usually ends
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up buying the at-home device so they can use it regularly,” she says. The service is offered as an addon to any facial for $30 (she combines it with a firming peptide serum) or a stand-alone treatment for $50. “It’s very convincing when we do a demo of the product and we just do one side of the face first and then hand them a mirror so they can compare the two sides. It’s truly remarkable,” she adds. “It’s great for preventative as well. There are so many empty promises out there, but this is a product that actually works.” To read more on special microcurrent techniques for the face, see “Flawless Face” on page 94.
Women especially are asking for these procedures by name. There seems to be a growing awareness and media coverage of these types of treatments.
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MICROCURRENT FOR THE BODY Treating sagging skin on the body is a little more difficult than skin on the face, but Katie Rush, lead esthetician at Skin Body Lounge in Studio City, Calif., has seen great results with microcurrent. “Knees tend to show better results with the microcurrent because if you’re standing up straight and you have that saggy knee, the microcurrent lifts the skin up a little bit,” she says. Microcurrent is also a great tool to use when clients are in the middle of a weight loss plan. “We like to work with them while they are dieting and working out to lose the weight to help keep the skin tight as they are working out. So we have them come see us every 5-10 pounds that they lose. Otherwise, you get people coming in after they’ve lost a lot of weight and they have all of this sagging skin, which at this point, can only be treated via surgery.” Skin Body Lounge’s first microcurrent session is $150 and maintenance sessions are $95.
Radiofrequency and microcurrent are quite similar, so recommending one to your clients over the other can be tricky.
RADIOFREQUENCY Radiofrequency and microcurrent are quite similar, so recommending one to your clients over the other can be tricky. “Both treatments improve your own collagen production and skin elasticity, bring more circulation to the treated area and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which in turn gives the client a full and firm appearance,” says Rush. Rush says she often tries one out first to see how the client’s skin responds. “Typically microcurrent lifts the muscles more, and radiofrequency tightens the fine lines more. You don’t know which is best for the individual until you try it. We also love combining the two,” she says. One RF Facial
session is about 15 minutes for $165 or $123.75 for members. A series of six is recommended, and the spa gives a 10 percent discount when a client buys four or more. It also works on the hands and knees, but Rush admits that the difference is only slight. “If a client’s concern with their hands is two-fold — sagging skin and brown spots, then we go with our IPL Photo Rejuvenation (Hands, $150) and see much better results,” she adds. Microcurrent and radiofrequency are not recommended for clients who are pregnant, undergoing chemotherapy or have a pacemaker or metal implants near the area treated.
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ULTRASOUND: BOOT CAMP FOR THE FACE The most popular and effective service at med-spas for lifting and tightening the face, neck, jowls and décolleté is ultrasound therapy. It’s been referred to as the best non-surgical facelift or a “boot camp for the face.” See our complete article on neck and décolleté treatments, “Shhh…Your True Age is Showing,” starting on page 24. “Out of laser, microcurrent and ultrasound, ultrasound is the most effective because it penetrates the deepest all the way down to the muscle,”says Annie Fallon, manager of Blue Med Spa in Sherman Oaks, Calif. “It helps tighten the muscle and build new collagen, and unlike some treatments, this one can go over areas with hair, like the eyebrows to give a nice lift, and it can go closer to the eyes.” But, it comes at a high price. At Blue Med Spa, one full-face treatment is 2.5 hours, costs $3,250 and typically requires the client to take a muscle relaxer and pain medicine during the procedure. “It is not cheapest or the most comfortable, but the results can last three to five years and most clients only need one treatment,” she adds. Fallon’s clients range from as young as age 22, who use this as a preventative measure, up to 72 years old. She says the only skin issue it won’t work as well on is extreme laxity.
[Ultrasound] has been referred to as the best nonsurgical facelift for the face.
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LASERS: A LUNCHTIME LIFT Tamara Spa + Wellness in Farmington Hills, Mich. offers an alternative to ultrasound therapy with a laser treatment using a 11,064 nanometer laser (30 minutes, $250 per treatment, or a series of six for $1,200). “This treatment tightens the skin by heating the underlying layers in the skin and forming new collagen, resulting in smoother, younger looking skin,” says owner Tamara Friedman. “The dynamic cooling device also applies to this laser application, where it allows quick results and client’s comfort, the laser light energy during this process is absorbed by water. The heated water in the vital portion of the skin serves to contract collagen and by thermal injury, lay down new collagen. This process results in tightening the area treated.”
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This method is a great option for clients who want results and comfort at a reasonable cost. “It’s called a lunchtime procedure because it can be performed in under 30 minutes, allowing clients to return to work after the procedure,” she adds. “Short of doing a facelift or a more aggressive/invasive approach, the facial skin tightening offers excellent results without downtime.” No pain meds are necessary — the client only needs to intermittently apply ice packs during the procedure. Anesthetic cream is also available to apply before the procedure if desired. The laser also works well on other parts of the body, such as hands and knees. “It just needs to be put on a different setting, with the temperature of the application not to exceed 42 degrees Celsius. It’s being done with painting technique,” she says. The laser can be combined with almost any anti-aging facial, but it’s not recommended to have on the same day as a microdermabrasion treatment. It’s also not recommended for pregnant or breast-feeding women or anyone exposed to the sun within two weeks. A skin sensitivity test is required for those on sensitizing medications.
The most popular and effective service at med-spas for lifting and tightening the face, neck, jowls and décolleté is ultrasound therapy.
NON-SURGICAL BRAZILIAN BUTT LIFT With bodacious celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Nicki Minaj bringing big booties back, surgical butt lifts are on the rise. But before your client goes under the knife, you can offer her a non-surgical option instead. The Cellulite Clinic in Studio City, Calif. offers the Brazilian Butt Lift using a combination of laser liposuction, radiofrequency and a muscle stimulation machine. The 75-minute treatment is recommended in a series of nine to 12 treatments for $2,500-$3,500, although many clients see results after six treatments.
“We start by using a laser lipo machine to the fatty areas on the legs, saddlebags, and/or love handles,” explains owner Dae Flesher. “We then use an intense deep suction with a radiofrequency device to manipulate the fat and drain towards the buttocks. This is the most uncomfortable part of the treatment. Lastly, we use a machine with two large suction cups that go on each buttock to keep everything in place. While this machine pulsates suction on the buttocks, we use a muscle stimulation machine to tighten and tone the surrounding muscles.” The result is a derrière that is lifted, tighter and toned.
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FLAWLESS
FACE
Boost your Makeover Results with Microcurrent by Tina Abnoosi
F
lawless skin is everyone’s dream, and in its pursuit we are willing to engage in extensive measures such as taking harmful medication, seeking invasive facial treatments and undergoing cosmetic surgeries. We also use makeup to hide imperfections, contour our facial features and lift our moods. With new advancements in microcurrent technology, many estheticians and cosmetologists are rediscovering the non-invasive healing properties of this modality and its numerous benefits. Microcurrent is a form of electrical massage that stimulates the skin and muscles of the face without pain or adverse side effects. Using this technique leads to a reduction of fine lines and deep wrinkles, removes inflammation and rejuvenates the skin without resorting to invasive measures. Microcurrent helps purify cells from toxins, increase blood flow and reach homeostasis, resulting in a fresh, youthful appearance.
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THE FUTURE OF EQUIPMENT GUIDE Here are a few noticeable outcomes of microcurrent: Reduces the appearance of dark circles, blueness and other skin discoloration Reduces puffiness and bags under the eyes Improves the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin Helps skin appear firmer, lifted and toned Brightens the skin Prolonged use reduces deep lines by increasing elastin and collagen production. This widely used modality can be implemented before a makeover to enhance the facial features by lifting, defining and contouring. Consequently, it creates more impressive results without taking more time and helps reduce the amount of product used per application.
Lift the Eyelid:
Care must be taken in choosing a device. Look
Sandwich the eyebrow in
for a device that generates
between the two conduc-
biphasic current in about
tors. Hold for five seconds, move over and repeat until the entire length of the eye-
500 micro-amp levels
brow is treated.
with output frequencies that help relieve inflam-
microcurrent treatment can contour the nose
mation, not cause it.
capabilities of microcurrent, the possibili-
and define the jawline. With the powerful ties are endless! Care must be taken in choosing a device. Look for a device that generates bipha-
Reduce Puffiness and Improve Dark Circles:
As eyes are said to reflect how a person
sic current in about 500 micro-amp levels
feels internally, makeup artists focus their
with output frequencies that help relieve
Hold the conductors on each corner under
attention on this area. Although makeup
inflammation, not cause it. Having adjust-
the eye for 45 seconds. You may bring the
can hide some of the imperfections, adding
able conductor applicators makes it easier
conductors close together or apart from
a quick five-minute microcurrent treatment
to apply and produce a uniform result.
one another to help remove blockage and
can actually help eliminate the underlying is-
These simple steps may be followed to
sues that cause tired, red, puffy or hollowed
introduce this modality into your regimen.
clear up fluid buildup.
eyes. This creates an even skin tone and a well-rested appearance. The result is long lasting, as it transforms and amplifies the natural beauty within, and following it with makeup can add a dramatic effect. You may consider using microcurrent to treat and rebuild the lip muscle. A threeminute treatment can reduce fine lines, augment and define the lip lines. A two-minute 96
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Apply mineral water to moisten the area to be treated. This helps conduct the desired energy.
Augment the Lips: Move the conductors around the lips in a heartshaped pattern.
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Marketing Microcurrent Microcurrent accentuates the facial features, and adding a makeup application will significantly improve your client’s look with
loyal clients. It is essential that you set your intention on building a better community by educating your clients. Talk to them about the benefits of microcurrent and how they can look fantastic while feeling great.
Contraindications
quantifiable results. This combination can easily be added to your existing menu as
X Clients who are pregnant
an enhancer. In order to properly price this
X Clients with medical electrical implants
add-on, the demographic must be consid-
X Clients with seizure disorders
ered in setting the menu. An increase as low
X Clients with present skin cancer
as $10 and as high as $125 to your existing makeover cost is easily attainable. For
Microcurrent has become the most sought-
example, if you are currently charging $60
after treatment by practitioners and clients.
for a makeover you may want to add $10
The more natural, healthier remedies you of-
for your microcurrent treatment. A positive
fer, the happier your clients will be, ensuring
effect is that less product is needed, as less
their return and subsequent referrals. They
correction is required, lowering the risk of
will remember not only how beautiful they
a chalky or cakey look.
looked, but how great you made them feel.
Marketing your services should always be done in a tasteful manner. An intriguing name like “The Quicker Facial Picker
Contour the Nose:
Upper,” “5 Minute Eye Lift,” “Hangover
Tina Abnoosi is president of
Be Gone,” “Lip Augmentation in 3” and
TAMA Research Corporation.
“Kissable Lips” raises interest among your
She is an electrical engineer with
clients. An open house can also help pro-
more than 30 years of experience
mote your new add-on. It is advised to per-
in the design and manufacturing of electri-
form the treatment on one side of the face to
cal and electronic components. A licensed
demonstrate the difference of your process.
esthetician, Abnoosi has more than 10 years
The key to launching a successful opera-
of experience with microcurrent equipment,
tion is to believe in the services you offer.
treatments and techniques. She continuously
Take some time to evaluate the effects of
develops new procedures to provide alterna-
microcurrent on yourself and a few of your
tive methods for staying youthful.
Place one conductor by the corner of the nose and move it toward the other conductor, rested on the procerus.
Define the Jawline:
Place one conductor below and the other above the jawline. Hold for five seconds, move over and repeat until the entire length of the jawline is treated.
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BEAUTY
ARSENAL
Choosing the right equipment for your spa by Chris Jackson
W
hen you make the decision to purchase treatment equipment for your spa business, there are key decisions to be made regarding what, when and how to add that piece of equipment. This information is based on equipment costs, safety regulations and the needs of your clientele. Let’s review the key factors you should consider to determine whether a piece of equipment is a good investment for your spa.
Initial Cost The cost of the initial investment is a known entity. The price is X — simple! Unlike the incoming revenue from the purchase, you know immediately what you need to pay for the equipment and whether or not it falls within your price
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range. If a new piece of equipment can be profitable for your spa in the long run, it is worthwhile to consider loan and lease options even if you cannot afford to pay the full cost upfront.
Ongoing Costs The ongoing costs of treatment equipment can be bundled in many ways — disposable costs per treatment, service contracts and training are a few ongoing costs to consider. Make sure you are fully aware of all ongoing costs associated with your equipment purchase so you can actually calculate the correct cost per treatment. Keep in mind that if the cost per treatment is too high for your clients, it’s not a sound investment, which brings us to the next key factor…
Demographics What is the demographic of your current client base, and what demographic are you trying to capture in your business? This is very important to understand. If your cost per treatment for a new service is $50 but your demographic will only spend $75, it’s not a good investment. Is your current and potential clientele able and willing to pay for the new treatment if you set the price at a realistic rate that is profitable for you?
Return on Investment Every new purchase has a period of non-profitability. The expense of the purchase, costs per treatment, demographics and retail cost per treat-
Service and training are very important to consider when selecting your equipment.
FDA Registration
ment all must be taken into account in order to assess when a new piece of equipment starts becoming profitable. Couple that with the question of whether you believe the new treatment will bring in new clients and expand your regular clientele.
Space Requirements Do you have enough space for the new equipment? There’s no point in ordering a beautiful machine that stands five feet wide and tall, looks amazing but cannot squeeze into your treatment room. Even if it can barely fit but is very tight, it may not be a good idea for your business. The room you work in must be comfortable for you and inviting for your clients.
Sometimes a conflict can be resolved to accommodate the new equipment. Can you rearrange the room? Can you get rid of another piece of equipment in order to bring in something new, or store something currently in the room somewhere else?
Service and Training Service and training are very important to consider when selecting your equipment. Determine if the service and training meets your business needs. Is the distributor able to service the device? If so, is there an additional charge for the service? Does the sale include training? If so, is that training done in person or online? Does training come with certification? Is there a cost for future ongoing training?
Every device that’s sold in the U.S. and does something to the body must be registered or run through the correct regulatory process. Hence, it’s important to know whether a distributor is reputable and registered with the FDA. Ask the potential manufacturer or distributor for their FDA registration. If it’s a high Class device, request the 510K documentation. Even Class I 510K exempt devices have to be registered with the FDA. It’s essential to ask for the registration number of any device you’re interested in to ensure that the company is in fact registered and reputable. For Class II and III devices, always request the 510K documentation.
Chris Jackson has been involved in the medical industry since 1977 and has extensive knowledge that combines product development with real clinical differences. He has been entrenched in the industry as part of a manufacturing and product development team for the last 10 years.
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SCIENCE
Behind Beauty Innovative Spa Technology by Louis Silberman
S
ince the FDA approved the first cosmetic lasers for permanent hair reduction in the mid-1990s, the esthetic cosmetic technology market has grown exponentially to include anti-aging treatments, skin rejuvenation, scar reduction, acne treatments, cellulite reduction, body contouring and tattoo removal. The spa market today is technologically driven and highly competitive. As a spa or med spa owner/employee, staying on the cutting-edge of technology is crucial to your bottom line. Let’s take a look at how you can boost your spa’s revenues with the latest equipment and devices.
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SCIENCE IN THE SPA Nanotechnology is a buzzword across multiple scientific fields that basically means REALLY SMALL STUFF. There are 25,400,000 nanometers in just one inch! How does this relate to spa technology? Nanotechnology is applied to short pulse lasers by pinpointing an age spot with extreme precision, meaning the area can be treated with a stronger laser and less damage to surrounding tissue. Scientists are also working with nanotechnology in hair loss treatments, in which lasers deliver hair growth ingredients to individual follicles.
FREEZING TECHNOLOGY Freezing treatments address age spots, sun spots and skin tags. Estheticians and cosmetic laser technicians can now administer treatments (with a 95 percent efficacy rate) at -79° C, getting the same results as dermatologists with less damage to healthy tissue. Carbon dioxide is delivered via painless, 5-10 second sprays to pinpoint treatment areas and can be used as a stand-alone service or with microdermabrasion and chemical peels for more stubborn treatment areas on hands, face and neck. Treatments start at about $80.
NEWEST GENERATIONS OF LASERS While nanosecond lasers such as the Q-switched YAG (FDA Class IV) are already in use, for example, to shatter tattoo pigment into small fragments (approximately $100 t$300 per treatment), the newer picosecond lasers (FDA Class IV) practically pulverize it. Picosecond proponents say treatments
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are faster and more efficient at tattoo removal and a variety of skin rejuvenation techniques. Picosecond side effects are generally mild and similar to nanosecond devices (swelling, pain, blistering), and treatments run about $250 to $500 per session.
IPL ADVANCES While there haven’t been any recent, drastic changes in IPL technology, IPL devices continue to evolve in safety and efficacy. A new version of IPL uses a broad range of wavelengths to target numerous skin conditions without the need for additional handpieces. IPL devices are FDA Class II. Treatment prices start at around $100 for a small treatment area and go up to $500 for facial IPL.
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HYBRID ABLATIVE AND NON-ABLATIVE FRACTIONAL LASERS Ablative fractional lasers offer impressive results but are associated with significant downtime. Newer hybrid devices send wavelengths to both top and bottom skin layers for optimal results. Downtime with hybrid fractional lasers is four to seven days, depending on the aggressiveness of treatment. For significant skin rejuvenation, a deeper treatment is given. Alternatively, several lighter treatments can be given over time. Treatments can dramatically reduce sun damage, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, enlarged pores, fine lines and scars. Fractional lasers are FDA Class IV. Typical treatment costs range from $500 to $1,500.
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FEMALE REJUVENATION Female rejuvenation addresses a wide range of problems for women, including incontinence, dry intercourse, diminished pleasure and loss of confidence as a result of vaginal childbirth, menopausal or perimenopausal symptoms and/or the aging process. Internally, a radiofrequency handpiece may be used deeper inside feminine areas to revive atrophic tissue and other structures. Externally, it’s used to tone and tighten tissues. After one to three treatments, spaced one month apart and requiring no anesthesia, results are noticeable and long-lasting and sexual activity may be resumed in zero to three days. When nonsurgical female rejuvenation was introduced using a CO2 laser, only OB/GYNs offered the procedure. But with the addition of RF in devices, I believe the treatment will soon be performed in many states by estheticians and cosmetic laser technicians Radiofrequency devices are generally FDA Class II. Treatments cost about $1,000 to $1,300, and three treatments are typically recommended.
RADIOFREQUENCY TECHNOLOGY
RF technology has been around for many years but scientists have only recently discovered its role as an anti-aging and body toning superstar.
Radiofrequency (RF) technology has been around for many years but scientists have only recently discovered its role as an anti-aging and body contouring superstar. At lower to mid-range levels, RF increases collagen production and tightens skin. At higher levels, it decreases fat cells in body contouring treatments (see section on Body Shaping on page 104). Side effects and downtime are typically minimal. RF devices are generally FDA Class II but may vary depending on the nature of delivery and intensity. Treatments typically run $200 to $300 for lower to mid-range levels, and up to $500 for higher levels.
ULTRASOUND Ultrasound bypasses the skin’s surface, going deeper than most traditional laser treatments. It uses the body’s own regenerative response to gently, gradually firm and lift lax skin on the eyebrow, under the chin and on the neck, as well as smooth out lines and wrinkles on the décolletage. Many clients report a noticeable improvement after three months. There’s no downtime and side effects are typically minimal. Ultrasound devices are FDA Class II-III. Treatments average about $3,000, and many clients need only one treatment.
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BODY SHAPING Thanks to recent advances in technology, nonsurgical fat reduction is now in high demand. Nonsurgical body shaping treatments can be used on most people with no downtime, eliminating stubborn fat that resists efforts through diet and exercise. Treatments start at $300-$1,000, and the number of treatments required to achieve and maintain results depends on the client and areas treated. Body shaping devices include: Lasers (FDA Class IV laser and Class II medical device, diode laser, 1060 nm/heated tissues) to treat flank and abdominal fat. Treatments cost approximately $1,500.
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Freezing, in which a device places unwanted fatty areas between two cooling plates, causes fat to die and be absorbed by the body. Many clients report improvement as quickly as three weeks after treatment, with the most dramatic results after two months. Freezing incorporates both RF and magnetic pulses, stimulating new collagen and elastin fiber generation over a period of time. Treatments range from about $700 for smaller areas to $1,500 or more for larger areas. Radiofrequency (RF) causes deep heating of the connective tissue including the fibrous septae, thereby increasing collagen production, decreasing fat cells and firming skin. It can also be used with vacuum suction, mechanical rollers and infrared light. Treatments cost up to $500, depending on the
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treatment area. Radiofrequency devices are generally FDA Class II. Ultrasound-assisted technology, which tightens skin by heating adipose cells, can be used alone or with therapeutic massage to reduce the appearance of fat and cellulite. Prices start at $800 to $1,200 per treatment and devices are generally FDA Class II-III.
MICRONEEDLING Numerous studies have shown that one of the best ways to improve skin’s tone and texture is by stimulating the body’s own healing process. Microneedling delivers tiny needle pricks to the skin’s dermis, causing minor damage. Overall results are both impressive and longlasting. Whether a client wants to decrease the appearance of wrinkles, lift
THE FUTURE OF EQUIPMENT GUIDE
sagging skin or diminish acne scars, microneedling is gentler than many other forms of skin resurfacing, encouraging collagen production while reducing hyperpigmentation and other signs of aging. Considered a non-ablative treatment, microneedling treats deeper levels of skin without removing the top layer. Side effects typically subside in 24-48 hours and include swelling, stinging, itching and tightness of the skin. Treatments cost between $200 to $400. Additionally, many med spas are now offering microneedling alongside Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy, in which a small amount of the client’s blood is drawn and placed in a sterile tube, spun in a centrifuge to separate red and white cells from platelets and plasma (clear fluid), then injected back into the skin to grow new collagen, soften sun damage and smooth and
tighten skin. Also known as the “vampire facial,” it’s an effective treatment for correcting common age-related skin concerns such as dark circles under the eyes, fine lines, sagging, decreased firmness and uneven tone. The price for microneedling plus PRP is an additional $200 to $350. A more aggressive version of microneedling introduced in 2015 (and used in medical offices) delivers radiofrequency energy through needles to internally boost collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. It can lift sagging jowls, define the jawline, tighten loose skin and temporarily eradicate marionette lines. Part microneedling/part RF, early results are impressive and client satisfaction is high. Prices range from about $3,500 per treatment, though one treatment may be all that’s needed. Clients generally experience swelling and can resume normal activities after 24 hours. FDA Class II or III is typically used, depending on energies used.
OTHER EXCITING TREATMENTS AND ESTHETIC ADVANCEMENTS There’s promising news for those suffering from superficial birthmarks and even more deeply pigmented lesions such as port-wine stains. Lasers can now be used to lighten and remove birthmarks. In children, however, it’s important to treat them as early as possible and generally a topical anesthetic is required. Birthmark lasers are FDA Class IV and treatments start around $300 to $700. Another treatment in med spas that’s gaining attention is one that addresses the double chin. Until recently,
Nonsurgical body shaping treatments can be used on most people with no downtime.
getting rid of this problem area meant liposuction and, if necessary, surgical skin tightening. In 2015, the FDA approved a non-surgical injectable for reducing moderate to severe fat on the upper neck. Injections contain a naturally occurring molecule, which eats away at fat cells and leaves skin substantially tighter and the jaw more defined and contoured. Almost 70 percent of research participants noted both physical and emotional improvement after treatment. Several cosmetic laser companies will soon roll out new devices to treat submental chin fat as well. In fact, a chin piece was recently introduced. Injections cost about $1,200, with three treatments typically needed.
Louis Silberman is CEO of National Laser Institute, and owns medical spas in Scottsdale and Dallas. He’s a motivational speaker and the author of “Make It Happen Online.” Silberman was a semi-finalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014. Contact him at louis@nationallaserinstitute.com.
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Spirulina in the Spa by Elina Fedotova
S
pirulina is a blue-green algae with detoxifying, calming and nourishing properties that
are very beneficial for any skin type. It possesses a powerful cocktail of essential amino acids, proteins, vitamins, minerals, carotenoids, natural pigments, gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) and chlorophyll, which make it a highly versatile skin care ingredient, packed with nutritional and topical properties. Spirulina grows in warm, alkaline fresh water and is available to skin care professionals in organic form. This microalgae flourishes in very warm water — around 86 degrees Fahrenheit — with a pH of approximately 8.5 and higher. It’s essential to find pure, organic sources of spirulina, as it it can absorb toxins and heavy metals from contaminated waters.
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Did you know?
The name spirulina comes from the Latin word for “helix” or “spiral” because it is composed of many swirling, microscopic strands.
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SPIRULINA IN THE SPA
“ Spirulina works extremely
well as an ingredient in herbal body wraps. This freshwater algae helps draw toxins out of the body.
”
Nutritional Benefits Spirulina is a whole food source that contains a synergetic blend of nutrients beneficial to the entire body. It’s actually considered a valuable food source in several countries. According to Joseph Mercola, D.O., spirulina is primarily known as a nutritional supplement. This fresh water algae has so many nutrients that NASA and The European Space Agency researched it in the late 1980s and early 1990s as a main source of food for astronauts that could be grown during long space flights. Spirulina is a wonderful provision of amino acids, beta-carotene and antioxidants, which makes it a valuable supplement for skin health. Beta Carotene is a form of vitamin A
in spirulina is very easy for the body to di-
cess of simple sugar conversion into energy
that is abundant in spirulina. Vitamin A is
gest. Amino acids found in spirulina that are
and assists in the elimination of toxins from
among the most famous vitamins for beauty,
particularly beneficial to the skin include:
the liver. It’s used in a wide variety of skin
and has the ability to restore the skin on the
care formulations.
cellular level. It also acts as an antioxidant
LYSINE: This key essential amino acid helps
to help protect cells from the damaging ef-
stimulate the immune system and the heal-
METHIONINE: This essential amino acid
fects of harmful free radicals.
ing processes of the skin and entire body. It
is required for the production of glutathi-
Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) is a pow-
can be taken orally and is used in topical skin
one, one of the body’s most important
erful antioxidant that helps to oxygenate
care preparations to accelerate the healing
antioxidants.
and detoxify the tissue and protect the skin.
of cold sores (herpes outbreaks) and other
Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) is a highly
inflammatory conditions.
polyunsaturated fatty acid that contributes
GLYCINE AND PROLINE: These non-es-
to the elasticity of the skin.
sential amino acids comprise two out of
Amino Acids
four major structural components of collagen. Glycine also helps energize and
Spirulina is known for its rich protein con-
oxygenate skin cells.
tent. This microalgae contains all of the es-
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sential amino acids — the building blocks
ALANINE: This non-essential ami-
of protein — and 10 of the 12 non-essential
no acid helps improve the body’s
amino acids. Studies show that the protein
microcirculation, boosts the pro-
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Spirulina in the Spa With all of the beneficial properties and benefits of spirulina, it has many applications in the spa: — It can be used in many formulations for cleansing, healing and skin nourishing effects, and can enhance almost any skin care product, including makeup! — Spirulina can even be used as a bright green pigment in place of synthetic dyes. — Alkalizing and oxygenating properties make it an ideal ingredient for post-acid peel treatments. — Due to its high concentration of chlorophyll and antioxidants like phycocyanin and N-acetylcysteine, spirulina works extremely well as an ingredient in herbal body wraps. This freshwater algae helps draw toxins out of the body. Spirulina is a highly beneficial ingredient that works well when combined with other formula-
Topical Benefits
5. Anti-aging: Spirulina helps fight three
tions or used alone with other active ingredi-
major causes of aging skin — inflammation,
ents. This blue-green algae makes a complete
oxidative stress and glycation.
balanced meal for the skin all by itself!
1. Oily/acne-prone skin: Spirulina helps to alkalize and detoxify congested complex-
The high content of chlorophyll and other
ions, making it very beneficial for treating
healing nutrients contained in this algae
oily and acne prone skin.
help calm inflamed skin.
2. Anti-inflammatory: It also has wonder-
The high antioxidant content helps re-
ful cooling, calming and healing effects on
duce oxidative stress and protect skin
inflammatory conditions like rosacea.
cells from free radical damage.
3. Cleanse and strengthen: The chlorophyll
When ingested, it helps control the
contained in this algae helps cleanse, oxy-
body’s glucose level, which assists in re-
genate and strengthen skin. It’s great for
ducing glycation, a molecular mechanism
sensitive complexions because it produces
in the body that can lead to premature
a gentle anti-histamine effect while deeply
aging.
Contraindications Like all protein-rich foods, spirulina contains the essential amino acid phenylalanine. Therefore, avoid use of spirulina-based products in services for clients who have phenylketonuria — a rare genetic disorder that prevents the body from metabolizing phenylalanine properly. Also, avoid use on pregnant clients due to its ability to absorb heavy metals from contaminated water.
nourishing the skin with a powerful complex of phytonutrients.
4. Dry/aging skin: Spirulina’s syn-
6. Calming: A natural spirulina-based mask
Elina Fedotova is an award
applied following microdermabrasion or
winning esthetician, cosmetic
other exfoliating treatments is soothing.
chemist and the CEO of Elina Organics. Her edible products
ergetic blend of proteins, anti-
oxidants and vitamins, combined
7. Treatment booster: Applying a spirulina-
and skin care expertise have been featured
with gentle moisturizing proper-
based mask to your client’s face before using
on “GMA Live!” as well as numerous local
ties, helps to restore dry and
galvanic or ultrasonic equipment allows for
Chicago stations. For more information visit
wrinkled areas of the skin.
deeper penetration into the skin.
elinaorganics.com or call 877.384.8300. LNEONLINE.com
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Spirulina product selection
SPIRULINA IN THE SPA
Be on the cutting edge and pamper your clients’ skin with spirulina products! Kerstin Florian Rejuvenating Spirulina Masque kerstinflorian.com
RepĂŞchage Hydra Medic Natural Organic Spirulina Nutritional Supplement repechage.com
emerginC Spirulina Toner emerginc.com
White & Elm Spirulina Green Superfood Nourishing Mask whiteandelm.com
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Grande COLLECTION The Grande Collection enhances your natural LASHES & BROWS and has been recognized 7x for best eyelash conditioner.
ASK US ABOUT OUR DISPLAYS | 1.877.835.3010 | WWW.GRANDELASHMD.COM | WWW.GRANDEWHOLESALE.COM Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #286 on reader service card
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HAPPIER CLIENTS
Today OFFERING LIFE COACHING AT YOUR SPA BY RACHEL DAVITA HARRIS
F
or thousands of years, cultures all over the world have suspected that health is not just related to the physical body. As early as 3,000 B.C., Hindu culture was developing Ayurveda, a holistic system aiming to create harmony between the body, mind and spirit. In the West, it wasn’t until recently that the concept of “wellness” began to spread. Coined as a term in the 1950s, today wellness has come to mean an overall feeling of well being achieved through balancing physical, spiritual and mental health. As the thinking goes, health in any one of these areas helps an individual achieve it in the others.
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HAPPIER CLIENTS TODAY
As this understanding of health has expanded in the West, spas have grown their services beyond beautifying and relaxing treatments.
IN-BETWEEN SESSIONS
Today, whether clients are looking to strengthen their body, maintain
Each coach gives their client some sort of follow-up homework
inner peace or achieve their goals, a spa just might be the place to
based on the unique challenge they are facing. At Spa 122 & Salon
go. In fact, through partnering with a life coach, more and more spas
in New Market, Va., life coach Barbara LaFever shares, “If a client is
today have a single individual onhand who can help clients move
anxious, then I may offer to teach them a simple meditation. If they
toward greater health in the physical, emotional or mental realms.
are shy, I may give some simple suggestions to get them into more
WHAT IS LIFE COACHING?
social situations.” Other types of homework may include journaling, taking an active step to complete a project, watching a video or reading an article.
Life coaches help their clients get from where they are to where they want to be.
FOLLOW-UP SESSIONS
As Brad Young, resident life coach at A Signature Day Spa in Rutland Town, Vt. explains, “Traditional life coaching helps a per-
After the initial session, follow up sessions diverge greatly as coaches
son to recognize who they are and to bring their life into alignment
tailor sessions to meet an individual client’s needs. While most ses-
with their own truth. It encourages people to take positive steps
sions include a follow up from the previous week and leave the client
to reach their goals.”
with new action steps, what happens in the remainder of the session
Whether these goals are related to career success, weight loss,
can take any form. Young, for example, holds a Masters in Counseling
general wellness or any area where a client feels dissatisfied with
Psychology and is trained in Eye Movement Desensitization and
their current situation, a life coach can provide support.
Reprocessing (EMDR), hypnosis and energy psychology, all tools he
Each coach gives their client some sort of followup homework based on the unique challenge they are facing.
THE FIRST SESSION
can bring into a session if a client agrees it could be beneficial. Clients may also reveal new goals in follow up sessions. “As rapport
As there is no governing body that defines the scope of life coach-
builds, clients start adding things to the list that they want to work
ing, life coaches vary widely in their approach for helping their cli-
on,” Hickey explains.
ents move forward. Still, in the first session some sort of discovery process takes place. At A Signature Day Spa, Young relies largely
WRAPPING UP
on his intuition to guide this initial conversation and help him unearth the roots of a client’s challenges and make recommendations
All coaches agree that their job is to give the client the tools and en-
on how to proceed.
couragement they need to face their challenges on their own, not to
Deitra Hickey, Ph.D., owner and one of multiple life coaches
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stay on as crutches for the client.
at Serenity Health and Wellness in Maumee, Ohio, follows a more
“About half of the time I’m the one to tell clients that they don’t
codified process. “We talk about why a client is there, what they
need to come back,” shares Hickey. “If I think that they need to just be
want to accomplish, what they’ve already accomplished and how
on their own, I’ll let them know that they are doing well and if something
we can build on their strengths. We’ll then set a realistic timeline
comes up they can always call me. We’ll finish when we have a mutual
for accomplishing their goals,” she explains.
agreement that they’re feeling good that their plan is going well.”
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HAPPIER CLIENTS TODAY
After the initial session, follow up sessions diverge greatly as coaches tailor sessions to meet an individual client’s needs.
PROFITABILITY
Teresa Hull, Spa Director of Spa 122, has worked out an agreement
While life coaching is generally not as popular as other spa services,
Hickey’s and McGinness’s. “We’ve settled on Spa 122 taking 20
each individual session can bring profit to the spa. “Life coaching is
percent, after an initial growth period,” she explains.
with Life Coach Barbara LeFever that lies somewhere in between
absolutely profitable. Unlike other spa services there’s no overhead. Once your facility is there, you do your marketing. You don’t need products like lotions or oils,” explains Hickey.
MARKETING
The main costs, other than maintaining a room for the coach, are
Each spa markets life coaching through their traditional channels:
related to sales, marketing and administration. “I provide the room,
social media, email blasts, brochures and spa signage. Yet due to
the front desk staff, all of the appointment making, the cashing out,
a frequent lack of understanding of what life coaching is, educat-
the accounting, the credit card fees and the reminder calls so that
ing the community is an important part of marketing the service.
the coach can just show up and do their job,” Hickey continues. In
To this end, all three spas try to create a more public face for their
exchange for this administration and marketing, Hickey’s coaches
coaches. Tactics include holding information sessions on life coach-
keep 60 percent of their session fee and the other 40 percent goes
ing at the spas, and having coaches attend events, conferences,
to the spa.
charity events and other community events. At Spa 122, Hull has
Deanna McGinness, owner and founder of A Signature Day Spa,
found it effective to have LaFever offer workshops on specific top-
on the other hand, sees Brad Young’s coaching as a value added to
ics such as career change or navigating midlife, thereby attracting
the spa, and Young keeps 100 percent of his fee. She explains how
a particular audience.
Young uses space in the spa that would otherwise go unoccupied,
Finally, much of the selling happens face to face. Young, for
so other than minimal marketing costs, he incurs no cost to the spa.
example, chooses to be present in the spa so that he can strike up
“Having Brad in our spa is a benefit,” she elaborates. “Our salon
conversations with guests and let them know about his services.
mission statement is to make a difference in the lives we touch. Brad
Massage therapists and estheticians also know to suggest life coach-
has helped [so many clients] get better.”
ing to guests if they mention a personal challenge.
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HAPPIER CLIENTS TODAY
More and more spas today have a single individual onhand who can help clients move toward greater health in the physical, emotional or mental realms.
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HAPPIER CLIENTS TODAY
LaFever has even traded services with each therapist at Spa 122
Once a spa director is considering a coach, they might ask the
so they are truly able to speak with clients about what she has to
coach to give them a session to see if he or she is able to help
offer. This selling goes both ways. “A lot of people come to coach-
them improve some area of their life. The director should also
ing because they are stressed,” shares Hickey. “Life coaches sug-
consider whether the coach’s style, approach and focus areas fit
gest spa services that help clients reach their goals of becoming
with the overall philosophy and mission of the spa, as coaches
healthier and more relaxed.”
vary greatly in their approach and technique.
OVERALL BENEFIT TO THE SPA
Life Coaching in the Spa
While life coaching is profitable to the spa no matter what type of split they implement, for each spa the value is more about fulfilling the spa’s mission to facilitate their guest’s well-being than financial gain.
SPA 122 & SALON
/ NEW MARKET, VIRGINIA
“Life coaching adds value to clients,” Hickey concludes. It’s not as busy as the other services but it really can change someone’s life.
• Holistic Life Coaching & Integrative Energetic Healing
You can have one or two clients that makes it all worth it.”
• $60 for one 50-minute session
HOW DOES ONE GET CERTIFIED?
• Clients are recommended four to six sessions
A SIGNATURE DAY SPA
/ RUTLAND TOWN, VERMONT
Many training programs, most offered virtually, provide life coaching certification. Programs vary in length from hours to months. The
• Life Coaching, EMDR, Hypnosis & Energy Psychology
International Coach Federation (ICF) reviews and accredits certifica-
• $95 for one 90-minute session
tion programs according to a set of internal standards.
• On average, clients return for three to six sessions
WHERE WOULD A SPA FIND A LIFE COACH TO PARTNER WITH?
SERENITY HEALTH & WELLNESS
/ MAUMEE, OHIO
• Life Coaching To find a coach, spa directors can reach out to life coaches they
• $89 for one 60-minute session
already know, do an online search for local coaches or ask their cur-
• On average, clients return for three sessions
rent clients to recommend a coach.
Enter the
Step-by-Step Drawing!
WHAT ARE THE QUALIFICATIONS OF A LIFE COACH?
Visit LNEONLINE.com for an exclusive look into a step-by-step treatment and a chance to win
No governing body regulates life coaching, so any indi-
This month:
best life coaches naturally have most of the skills they
Technology meets Beauty Enter to win the $550.00 off the purchase of any TAMA device.
vidual can practice as a “life coach.” According to certified life coach and spa owner Deitra Hickey, Ph.D., “The need to practice: their passion, their drive to help people and their natural awareness. Life coaches are basically empowering others to make decisions and being their cheerleader. The certification hones in on the legalities and some of the logistics that go along with coaching.”
Rachel Davita Harris is a writer based in Miami, Fla. She writes about beauty, health, spirituality, local people and places, and produces marketing materials for businesses. Rachel is passionate about helping women experience their beauty and power and teaches personal story writing classes for women to help them express what it means to be a woman today.
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EARTHLY DELIGHT
Organic & Wellness News
The Vitality Deep Cleansing Oil from PurErb™ is a luxurious, aromatic oil cleanser that washes away surface impurities to help prevent dehydration and excess sebum. Sure to leave clients’ skin refreshed, smooth and radiant, its moisturizing formula features 15 botanical ingredients. To nourish, soften and restore radiance, the rinse-off formula includes kukui, sacha inchi, jojoba, argan oils, geranium, mandarin orange, frankincense and spearmint for an energizing mix.
888.327.8188 purerbskincare.com
FRUITY FRESH Treat your clients to a delicious face mask that evens and polishes with FarmHouse Fresh® Pudding Apeel™. Practically a recipe for the perfect dessert, this delectable resurfacing mask gently exfoliates using glycolic acid and alpha hydroxy acids from various fruit extracts while hydrating the skin with moisturizing honey, coconut milk, soothing green tea and honeysuckle extracts. This mask is the ideal daily refresh, helping to control acne, improve the appearance of sun-damaged and aging skin as well as continuously supporting cell turnover to reveal newer, younger-looking skin.
ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS
Ayurvedic herbal infused oils nourish and cool sensitive or warm skin that is characteristic of the Pitta dosha type with Shankara’s De-Stressing Body Oil. The therapeutic essential oils in the formula add to the balancing effect as they provide a soothing, light and uplifting feeling of serenity. This therapeutic, pH-neutral body oil can be used as a skin-nourishing moisturizer or as a relaxing, enriching massage oil.
888.626.4363 shankara.com
DETOX AND DEMOLISH DRY SKIN Infused with medicinal bamboo charcoal, the Purifying Exfoliating Gloves from Earth Therapeutics are textured to gently slough away the outer layers of dead skin to unclog pores. The embedded infusion of medicinal charcoal enhances the cleansing process by drawing out impurities. Specially designed to massage and deep clean the skin, these gloves stimulate circulation and promote soft and healthy skin with regular use, making them excellent treatment tools and retail items.
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888.773.9626 farmhousefreshgoods.com
TENSION TAMER
800.789.3579 earththerapeutics.net |
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LET’S TALK Makeup
With Kerry and Amy Hovland Von Anthony Salon & Spa, Frisco, Texas
Color Communication Interviewed by Jennifer Thompson, Director of Brand Sales for jane iredale
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WHEN DID YOU DECIDE TO IMPLEMENT MAKEUP INTO YOUR SPA? We have offered makeup since the first day we opened in 2009.
HOW DID YOU DO IT? Artists from our brand came in and trained our technicians. They also took a few classes from the brand off site, learning all the different techniques for applying makeup.
WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO IMPLEMENT MAKEUP INTO THE SPA? We wanted to be able to offer full makeover services. Since we’re doing hair it makes sense to offer it as a service. We needed makeup as part of our event services as well.
HOW DID YOU SELECT MAKEUP ARTISTS? All of our makeup artists are hair stylists or part of our esthetics team, so we looked for technicians who were also able to do makeup.
WHAT IS THE SURFACE AREA OF THE MAKEUP AREA COMPARED TO THE REST OF THE SPA? A 100 sq. ft area in a 3400 sq. ft. spa.
WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO CHOOSE THAT SIZE? It is a nice working area and looks great. Because it’s located right in the middle of the flow of the spa, guests can see, touch and feel the makeup.
HOW POPULAR ARE YOUR SERVICES?
MAKEUP
It’s seasonal. Most of our makeup applications act as an add-on to our services. On special occasions like Mother’s Day, holidays, prom or homecoming, we are at capacity.
WHAT MAKEUP SERVICES HAVE THE MOST SUCCESS? Full applications for special occasions and eyes only. Some clients will want just the eyes, especially those who don’t want a whole lot of makeup but want to take advantage of being at a spa.
ARE ESTHETICIANS TRAINED TO PROMOTE MAKEUP SERVICES AFTER EACH TREATMENT? Yes, especially as add-on services. We do a color match as well, to show them what their best look is, and also what is best for their face. It’s a nice tie in for the estheticians to have that kind of knowledge.
HOW DID YOU CHOOSE YOUR MAKEUP LINE?
WHAT KIND OF MAKEUP TREATMENTS DO YOU OFFER ON THE MENU?
The benefit of the brand we chose is it’s so clean and pure it doesn’t affect the face. We wanted something unique and upscale to match our business, not something a client could just pick up anywhere. We liked the retails offerings as well. We’ve had great success with them.
Full makeup applications, eyes only, bridal, touch ups after styling as well as color match and consultations.
DO YOU HAVE SPECIAL PROMOTIONS FOR MAKEUP?
HOW DO YOU PROMOTE YOUR MAKEUP SERVICES? A lot of it is visual, with the makeup area being right in the middle of the flow of the spa. Makeup touch up as part of styling and other services is very popular. Every quarter we do a spa event with huge discounts and promote makeup as an add on.
At the last event, about a third of people added makeup to our featured service. We also rely on social media and word of mouth to promote the makeup.
We offer seasonal and holiday promotions as well as Mother’s Day specials. We have also held special events featuring our brand’s artists where they come in for a day and offer free makeup applications. It’s a great introduction to the products and ideal techniques for achieving their best look.
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INSPIRED GLAMOUR Micropigmentation Creates 21st Century Beauty Marks by Rose Marie Beauchemin
Throughout history, celebrity beauty marks have been the envy of countless women. From Marylyn Monroe and Cindy Crawford to Eva Mendes, women have long admired and tried to emulate this look. When located in the right place, they are said to make a face look alluring and sexy.
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IMAGE
| INSPIRED GLAMOUR
Interestingly, the only difference between a beauty mark and a mole is its location. The fact that one may be raised and another appears flatter makes no difference. It is purely location. If a mole is located above the lip, it is considered a stunning beauty mark. The same applies for the top of the cheekbone and several places on the cheek. However, if one should appear in the middle of the forehead, right under the chin or the tip of the nose, it is generally not considered attractive.
A Mark Throughout History In ancient cultures, however, the melanocytic nevus (beauty mark or mole) carried less attractive interpretations. In ancient China, an easily seen beauty mark served as a warning while a hidden one indicated good luck and great fortune. If you had a beauty mark on your neck in ancient Greece, it was an indication you would eventually be beheaded. Roman women disliked them tremendously and would attempt to scrub them off with ashes made from snails. In Medieval times, a visible beauty mark required an exorcism and, during the Renaissance, corresponding moles were used to discern whether someone would make a good husband. Over time, the glamour and popularity of Hollywood actresses that sported beauty marks (whether real or fake) became a focus of great admiration. These included 1920s actress Clara Bow, who wore a self-imposed heart on her lower right cheek. Eventually came Marilyn Monroe. An iconic sex symbol, her look was much sought after and women everywhere wanted to mimic her beauty mark. Today, we can see the resurgence of her entire look that is back in vogue. Supporting this appeal
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is Cindy Crawford, Natalie Portman and Blake Lively, to name just a few. But what about those not born with this mark of beauty? Can it be achieved and appear convincing? Thanks to micropigmentation, it can! Anyone can achieve the iconic symbol of beauty without worrying if it will smear or wear off.
LNEONLINE.com
Anyone can achieve the iconic symbol of beauty.
IMAGE
Where There is None If your client has no sign of a freckle or beauty mark, one can be totally created with micropigmentation. Just pick a spot. The most natural and convincing way to do this is to keep to the brown shades and avoid black. Black will eventually turn blue, making the mark look unrealistic.
If Client Has a Freckle A freckle can be easily enhanced with micropigmentation. Freckles are flat and generally considered safe to darken, but make sure it has not changed
in color or shape or grown larger before tattooing. You would not want to disguise a possible sign of skin cancer.
If Client Has a Mole that Has Lightened Over Time If the client has a flat mole that has lightened over time, it is very simple to darken it with micropigmentation. A raised mole is a situation best decided by a dermatologist. In the micropigmentation profession, raised moles are not typically darkened unless medical clearance is given. The procedure itself is quite simple and can be performed on Fitzpatrick
| INSPIRED GLAMOUR
If your client has no sign of a freckle or beauty mark, one can be totally created with micropigmentation.
skin types 1-6. First, the beauty mark should be drawn for the client to see and approve an exact placement and size. A small grouping of sterile needles is used, such as a 3-Outline or 3-Liner. This ensures the beauty mark will not be too large. A small dot is placed in the center and then built outward, expanding into a round shape until the desired size is achieved. The actual size will be slightly smaller when healed due to some light swelling. Most permanent makeup practitioners would rather add more on a touch-up visit than be concerned the size is too large.
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Dos: ATTRACTIVE PLACEMENT Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Yet there are certain places on the face where a beauty mark is generally desired. A beauty mark on the top lip is considered very sexy, and one right under the corner of the bottom lip is often requested as well. The apple of the cheekbone is another popular area, or even up a bit further by the corner of the eye. Even the center of the cheek is popular. A small beauty mark on the corner of a beautiful jawline can also be appealing. Just remember, wherever it is placed, attention will be drawn to that area.
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Don’ts: PLACEMENTS TO AVOID The least popular placements are the center of the chin, under the chin, the nose area or center of the forehead. A mark here would not enhance these facial features by highlighting them. Beauty marks should have a subtlety to them, so avoid making it too large or obvious. Having a beauty mark that overtakes the face or is the first thing seen is not the purpose. It will shriek of fake, unnatural and overdone.
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Cost of Procedure
Color Selection
The cost of a tattooed beauty mark ranges from $75 to $150 and may or may not include a 4-6 week touch up visit.
Color selection begins with a brown of the desired depth of color, but warming this color is imperative. Without the addition of a warming shade (yellow, orange or a henna shade), chances are increased for a bluish and unrealistic outcome. Once the formula is mixed, place it on the area and allow it to dry to avoid ash tones in the formulation. If the color dries bluish or ashy, add more warmth. When selecting a darker brown shade for a Fitzpatrick 4-6, be sure to add additional warmth since their degree of melanin is greater and tends to ash easily. Once the desired color is achieved, the beauty mark can be tattooed.
Rose Marie Beauchemin is the owner and director of education for the Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics. She brings her 25 years of experience and knowledge of makeup artistry and color theory into each training program offered at Beau. For more information, visit beauinstitute.com or call 888.763.2328. Contact Beauchemin at rosemarie@beauinstitute.com.
Longevity of Beauty Mark The lasting effects of tattooed beauty marks depend on a few different things, such as time spent outdoors. The sun fades all permanent makeup. The depth of color selected also makes a difference, as darker colors tend to last longer and lighter shades will fade and require a touch up sooner. The average length of time is about one year for light to medium shades and two to three years for darker shades. Active skin care products tend to fade beauty marks and all permanent makeup applications. However, color refreshing a beauty mark is so simple that clients should never avoid their active skin care products.
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856-727-1411 beauinstitute.com Located in Mount Laurel, New Jersey
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REMARKABLE REMEDY Finally a product that doesn’t just claim DNA repair, Catalyst AC11 DNA Repair Serum from Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare proves it in dramatic fashion. Rejuvenating skin cells from the inside out, this serum contains the proprietary ingredient AC-11, a specialized extract of cat’s claw. In a remarkable recently published clinical trial, it was proven to increase DNA repair by up to 40 percent. With continued use, clients see permanently reversed signs of aging. The serum protects from further DNA deterioration, avoiding the lost elasticity that can often only be fixed with surgery.
877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com
SATINY SWEET Soft, beautiful and oh-so-kissable lips are possible with jane iredale’s Sugar & Butter Lip Exfoliator. Organic brown sugar gently removes dull, dry skin in this lip exfoliator/plumper duo. With no chemical preservatives or synthetic dyes to worry about, clients can eat the sugary crystals right off their lips! Then, the tinted lip plumper with shea butter, cool mint, ginger and peptides moistens and plumps. A simple sweep gives lips a natural, glowing pink tint while plumping and diminishing lines to reduce feathering.
DISTINCTIVE DESIGN
Image News
The unique shape of Qosmedix’s latex-free Angled Blending Sponge provides a comfortable grip while applying and blending foundation, concealer or skin care products. The contours of the sponge allow for precise application in hard to reach areas. The angled side can be used to apply the product while the flat side can be used to stipple and blend.
MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS
This innovative angled blending sponge aids in achieving difficult techniques like highlighting, contouring and strobing. It can be used wet for sheer coverage and dry for heavier coverage.
631.242.3270 qosmedix.com
SHEER SHIELD A 3-in-1 beauty treatment, FlowerColor Natural Liquid Foundation SPF 15 from Ecco Bella is a water-based, lightweight sunscreen and foundation. Gluten-free, vegan and paraben-free, these foundations work hard to keep skin healthy with both UVA and UVB sunscreen while organic herbs and antioxidants rejuvenate, protect and soothe. Organic aloe vera quenches thirsty skin while saccharide isomerate, a natural sugar that binds water to skin, acts as a reservoir for continuous moisture.
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877.696.2220 eccobella.com |
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ADVERTISER INDEX Page Number
Reader Service No.
51............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 83............... Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 55............... Avery Graham......................................................... averygraham.com............................................................ 355 127............. Beau Institute.......................................................... beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 10............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 57............... Biojouvance............................................................ biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 35............... BioPhotas................................................................ biophotas.com................................................................ 295 21............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................. 335 61............... Bon Vital’................................................................. bonvital.com................................................................... 265 11............... Booker..................................................................... booker.com/LNEspa........................................................ 154 59............... Dermaswiss............................................................. dermaswiss.com.............................................................. 245 127............. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro USA........................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 80............... Farmhouse Fresh..................................................... farmhousefreshgoods.com.............................................. 181 81............... France Laure........................................................... francelaure.com............................................................... 199 129............. Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 111............. Grandelash-MD....................................................... grandelash-md.com........................................................ 286 4,5.............. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 29............... Image Skin Care...................................................... imageskincare.com.......................................................... 178 22,23.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia........... philadelphia.skincareshows.com 32,33.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas.................... dallas.skincareshows.com 72............... Jenetiqa.................................................................. jenetiqa.com................................................................... 270 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 49............... Le Mieux................................................................. lemieuxcosmetics.com..................................................... 294 71............... Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 30............... Methode Brigitte Kettner........................................ mbk-cosmetics.com......................................................... 329 74............... M.A.D. Skincare...................................................... mad-skincare.com........................................................... 297 132............. Nelly Devuyst / Derme & Co.................................. derme.ca......................................................................... 248 73............... Nouveau Contour................................................... nouveaucontourusa.com.................................................. 186 119............. Pure Fiji................................................................... purefiji.com..................................................................... 338 15............... Rapidlash................................................................ rapidlash.com.................................................................. 224 47............... Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 62, 63......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 31............... Revitalash................................................................ revitalash.com................................................................. 346 17............... Satin Smooth........................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................. 304 75............... Silhouet-Tone.......................................................... silhouettone.com............................................................. 192 82............... Skin for Life............................................................. skinforlife.com................................................................. 156 66,67.......... Skin Script RX.......................................................... skinscriptrx.com............................................................... 289 79............... TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. 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