LNE & Spa - February 2017

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals February 2017

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EXPLORE THE AGE CORRECTIVE COLLECTION AGE CORRECTIVE • AGE CORRECTIVE ULTRA • AGE CORRECTIVE NIGHT 2

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from the

editor Each of us uses our own qualifying factors to decide when something is the best of its kind. When it comes to beauty and wellness innovations, our own personal preferences are determined by how well something works for us or makes us feel. Because we are all so unique, this can vary dramatically from one person to the next.

With so many outstanding products and equipment in the spa and skin care industry, each and every one of them is bound to be the favorite for some. However, there are always a select few that manage to stand out and win the ultimate popularity contest!

The February edition is our annual BEST issue, where we recognize the year’s most illustrious innovations in each category according to YOU, our readers, who cast thousands of votes this past November. From the classic staples like serums and sun care to the newest industry categories like anti-pollution and inner beauty, we highlight all of the winners that you selected for a record 47 CATEGORIES in our 2017 LNE & Spa BEST Awards, starting on page 36.

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Additionally, this month’s guide on The Future of Skin Care features in-depth insight on the key top-notch ingredients now taking center stage in the latest skin care formulas, starting on page 71.

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From menopausal skin treatments and microblading to creating the illusion of freckles, find the most cutting-edge information on trending services, techniques and ideas right here inside the February 2017 issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa!

— Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com

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Skin Care for life inside and out®

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PROFESSIONAL MICROSONIC CLEANSING BRUSH

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february volume 32 number 2

cover

Dessange Paris

The secret of change is to focus all of your energy, not on fighting the old, but on building the new.

- Socrates

contents The "Point" of Acupuncture

71 The Future of Skin Care Guide

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Menopausal Skin

72 Power Ingredients in the Spotlight

32

Skin News

guide

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76 Anti-Aging All Stars 80 Top Notch Ingredients to the Rescue 85 Cholesterol?!

71 The Future of Skin Care Guide

36

LNE & Spa BEST Winners

88

Silk Extract

48

Spa of the Month

92

Kao-No-Rimpa

52

Pop Up Spas

98

Organic and Wellness News

56

Spa News

o&w

14 The "Point" of Acupuncture

52 Pop Up Spas

88 Silk Extract

60

100 Business Advice for Beauty

Behind the Spa Door with Tiffany Lewis

62

A Thriving Business

68

Business News

62 A Thriving Business

image

business

spa

skin

6 From the Editor 114 Advertiser Index

Professionals with Keri Martino-Pickett and Kim Aiello 102 That Freckle Faced Girl 106 Microblading 110 Image News

106 Microblading

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229.

Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664.

LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial Assistant & Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Alan Araya alan@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer webdeveloper@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

ST L E B EA D

C ontributors Rhonda Allison Carrie Borzillo Debra M. Delaney Craig Kraffert, M.D.

Janel Luu Kristina Mazzenga R. Scott Peterson, Ph.D. Bella Schneider Louis Silberman

Aurora Solis Shawn Towne Anabel de la Vega Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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ANTI-AGING MAGIC POTION

THE SECRET BEHIND RETI AGE

The vitamin A bomb that repairs without irritation

R

etinol, also known as vitamin A, has numerous benefits for the skin and is known as one of the oldest and most effective active molecules to treat the aging process. As effective as pure retinol is at fighting the signs of aging, it is not a consistently stable molecule. Retinol breaks down in the presence of oxygen and light and can cause skin irritation.

Dr. Gabriel Serrano Sanmiguel, founder of Sesderma

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Dr. Gabriel Serrano Sanmiguel, founder of Sesderma has worked thoroughly to overcome this instability and skin’s low tolerance through innovative formulas and packaging. As a result of their latest developments in nanotechnology, Sesderma introduces RETI AGE, the only skin care line with a 3-Retinol System for daily use.

PROMOTION

WHY IS RETI AGE SO UNIQUE? 3-Retinol System encapsulated in lipid bubbles The unique combination of 3 types of retinoids (retinal, retinyl and retinol) is encapsulated into lipid bubbles to facilitate the delivery of the molecules and enhance penetration. Until penetration, this system also protects the retinol from oxidation or spoilage and extends the shelf life of the product.

The microcapsules penetrate skin when they are applied, providing the most active effects upon delivery. The irritation caused by traditional retinol treatments is avoided while delivering action to the deepest layers of the dermis.

A SYNERGY OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS Improves performance due to a combination of active ingredients This powerful anti-aging action is combined with active ingredients, which act synergistically for maximum results: Hydration, Regeneration, Antioxidant and Calming.

HYDRATION with Hyaluronic Acid Liposomes Hyaluronic acid is a molecule with a great capacity for water retention.

Retinoids and hyaluronic acid combined promote the formation of new hyaluronic acid. A thin film is formed on the skin that prevents dehydration and immediately improves the skin’s appearance.

REGENERATION with Growth Factors Growth factors are proteins that intervene in the control of growth and cellular differentiation. Those that incorporate Reti Age are derived from a plant (Nicotiana bethamiana) and are beneficial in addressing both photoaging and chrono-aging. Fibroblast stimulation increases collagen production levels, consequently producing firmness and elasticity in the skin.

ANTIOXIDANT Complex Antioxidants neutralize free radicals to prevent photo-aging without causing damage to the cells. Instead of a single antioxidant, Reti Age incorporates five antioxidants for a much stronger solution.

This antioxidant complex consists of vitamins C and E, Pterostilben (polyphenol derived from resveratrol), Ergothioneine (a plant-derived amino acid that behaves like a vitamin with a high antioxidant and antiradical value) and coenzyme Q10.

CALMING with Zinc Zinc ensures the gradual conversion of retinoic acid. The oxidative conversion of retinol into retinal is mediated by a zinc-dependent enzyme, which results in improved performance of the active ingredients.

A UNIQUE HIGH POWER FORMULATION Delivers powerful anti-aging benefits Reti Age reduces the appearance of wrinkles, increasing skin’s firmness and hydration while redefining the contours of the face. Reti Age is also recommended in combination with treatments meant for acne, rosacea, solar keratoses and melasma.

A revolution: The only skin care line with a 3-Retinol System for daily use.

WINNERS OF KEY INDUSTRY AWARDS Highly coveted worldwide technology Reti Age has received numerous acknowledgments for their exceptionally unique technology. Reti Age has been awarded the 'Best Face Treatment' at the AR Magazine awards 2016 in Spain, received the Prix d’Excellence de la Beauté Marie Claire in France, as well as the 'Most innovative Anti-aging Product' prize at the 2015 Cosmetic and Beauty Awards, organized by Spanish pharmacy.

Additionally, Reti Age has been chosen as the most 'Highly Commended Product' in the category of Best Home Use Product or Device at the My Face My Body Awards in the UK.

WHO IS BEHIND? Sesderma in a nutshell…

A skin care brand that works by the principle of “listening to your skin.”

The Sesderma team has spent more than 25 years promoting holistic dermatology committed to the complete well-being of the skin.

Sesderma is a pioneer in applying nanotechnology to the manufacturing of skin care products, encapsulating and transporting active ingredients in the fastest, most selective way possible to reach the deepest layers of the skin.

SESDERMA Miami, Florida 800-796-0996 www.sesdermausa.com www.medidermausa.com For professionals only.

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by Aurora Solis It is widely known that increased blood circulation helps the body to look and feel better; hence the saying that true beauty comes from within. Treating the underlying cause of aging is a preferred alternative to addressing the external symptoms, which allows imperfections to continue from within the body. As early as the Song Dynasty (960 A.D. to 1279 A.D.), the Chinese discovered and utilized ways to increase the energy flow within the body to initiate the rejuvenating healing process. Acupuncture rejuvenation practices were used for the Empress and the Emperor’s concubines and were based off of the famous Chinese axiom,

“Where Qi goes, blood flows.”

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skin the "point" of acupuncture

O

f course, there are numerous interventions offered for aging skin, including treatments for facial wrinkles, facial muscle tone and elasticity. Cosmetic acupuncture has entered the scene in recent years as a way to boost skin rejuvenation. Facial cosmetic acupuncture is a non-surgical method of reducing the signs of the aging process. While it is often referred to as a “nonsurgical facelift,” it is actually a rejuvenation and revitalization method designed to help the entire body look and feel younger.

How it Works Cosmetic acupuncture is more than skin deep; it is a commitment to one's lifestyle and health. The effectiveness of cosmetic acupuncture is due to its direct manipulation of the body's energy system, removing blockages or adding energy when necessary. The process involves the insertion of hair-

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thin needles into specific areas of the face, ears, neck, hands and legs along channels of energy called Qi. The Chinese discovered that many meridians either begin or end on the face, while some have internal branches that go to the face. Specific points are chosen to manipulate the movement of the energy in the body, based on the individual’s needs.

For example, treatment of the wrinkled areas around the eyes essentially treats the liver system, which controls all muscle contractions (the spleen system in Chinese medicine is related to muscle development and tone). Digestive problems, on the other hand, show up on the skin as acne, redness or irritation, and these symptoms often show up on the chin and cheeks, the major areas related to digestion.

Anti-aging is promoted via the rebuilding of collagen, one of the major proteins and building blocks of skin tissue, which breaks down over time.

When an acupuncture needle is insert-

ed into the surface of the skin at the area of collagen loss, it creates a mild trauma in the skin. The skin then sends in collagen-building cells to repair the trauma. The strategic placement of the needles into different areas of collagen loss creates a wound in the skin, and the body produces collagen in order to heal the wound. This effect is similar to the one that occurs when the skin is scraped: the body’s natural ability to heal kicks in.

Treatment in Practice A facial acupuncture course of treatment consists of approximately 12 individual sessions, with effects becoming noticeable around halfway through this process. Maintenance sessions every six months thereafter are advisable to prolong the results, as it is essential to implement a follow-up program. In the case of facial acupuncture, this involves educating clients on the benefits of facial massage and facial exercise

Let your clients love their lashes, brows, hair and skin this Valentine’s Day!

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skin the "point" of acupuncture

BEAUTY BENEFITS OF COSMETIC ACUPUNCTURE • Improves overall rejuvenation of skin tone • Increases circulation in the skin by bringing collagen and elastin into the face and neck • De-puffs face • Reduces fine lines • Minimizes sagging/bags around the eyes • Increases release of endorphins to leave clients feeling mellow, rested and less stressed, which is reflected from the inside out • No side effects, scarring or downtime • Internal rebalancing effect calms breakouts from acne and rosacea

techniques, aromatherapy blends, supportive herbs for the skin and healthy diet habits to address the internal issues reflected on the face.

Inner Health, Outer Beauty Results of cosmetic acupuncture become evident after just a few treatments, with common effects including elimination of fine lines, diminished wrinkles and reduced puffiness and bags under the eyes, ultimately erasing between five and 15 years off the face.

Other results of cosmetic acupuncture include hydration of the skin due to increased circulation of blood and lymph to the face; increased collagen production, muscle tone and dermal contraction; tightening of the pores; brightening of the eyes; improved hormonal

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balance to help acne and reduction of visible stress in the face. Depending on how an individual is aging, different methods of cosmetic acupuncture are emphasized and specific points are stimulated during the treatment.

Cosmetic Acupuncture vs. Surgical Face-lift While not a replacement for surgery, cosmetic acupuncture is an excellent alternative. It is far less costly than cosmetic surgery and is completely safe, virtually painless, and has no side effects or risk of disfigurement. Surgery may result in an extended recovery period with swelling and discoloration, but there is no such trauma related to cosmetic acupuncture. Although cosmetic acupuncture does not have the ability

to reshape a client’s nose or chin, it is a more delicate rejuvenation experience that naturally improves overall health.

CONTRAINDICATIONS Clients with any of the following conditions should consult their doctor before receiving acupuncture:

• • • • • • • • • •

Pituitary disorders Heart disorders Diabetes High blood pressure Pacemakers Individuals who experience easy bleeding or bruising Migraine headaches Pregnancy Cold or flu Acute herpes outbreak

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skin the "point" of acupuncture

Session Specifics The initial cosmetic acupuncture treatment is normally 90 minutes, in addition to time for a thorough consultation. The session ranges anywhere from $75-$140, and the consultation may be approximately 30 minutes for an additional $50.

Sessions following the first treatment are typically 60 minutes and priced between $70 and $100. For a series of the recommended total of 12 treatments, packages typically range between $900 and $1,000.

Hiring a Specialist

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Facial rejuvenation acupuncture must be performed by an acupuncture practitioner who is licensed (in their state of practice) and trained in the specialty of cosmetic acupuncture.

To offer this specialized treatment

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in your spa, you must hire or partner with a certified acupuncture practitioner with expertise in this modality.

For details on each state’s certification requirements and levels of mastery, refer to the National Certification Commission on Acupuncture and Oriental Medicine (nccaom.org), which is also one resource for finding a practitioner. However always check directly with your state to ensure the certification information is up to date. You can also seek out acupuncture practitioners by posting on local job boards for the industry.

Make sure every candidate you consider is malpractice insured, and check with your own provider to determine what your policy covers for this service.

During the interview process, seek out candidates who are willing to help promote their acupuncture services at your spa through their own network.

Also, keep in mind that acupuncture practitioners will be communicating a great deal with their clients through their consultations, oftentimes about sensitive issues relating to clients’ emotional and physical health, so it is important that they have strong interpersonal skills and exhibit an attitude of patience and caring.

Set Up Expectations Once you select a new employee or partner to perform acupuncture in your spa, you must set up a working situation that is profitable for both parties, bringing additional revenue through new clientele and services booked.

First determine whether they will come on as a full time team member with a set salary, or have part time schedule with set hours of availability. If it is the latter, you must decide whether you will pay them a set

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REGENERATES: stimulates natural skin renewal.

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skin the "point" of acupuncture

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amount for each day that they are on site or charge them a commission on each service they provide.

Finally, set up a plan for effective cross promotion of the acupuncture services with your spa’s other treatments and retail. They will be responsible for explaining to clients how facial acupuncture effects can be enhanced and completed by incorporating additional products, supplements and treatments into their overall regimen toward inner health and outer beauty. ď Ž

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menopausal skin In Spa Skin Care Interventions

by Bella Schneider

t

he effect of menopause on skin varies with individual responses to internal hormonal changes and aging. Signs can begin to appear in one's early 40s, but more often occur in their late 40s and 50s. The transitional period can last years and cause significant changes for women, both physically and emotionally.

Some of the physical symptoms that affect a woman's esthetic sense during menopause include sweating, dryness, accelerated skin aging and sensitivity. The reduced estrogen production in a woman's body can increase the presence of testosterone response and lead to unsightly effects like skin oiliness, sagging skin and even unwanted body hair growth.

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skin menopausal skin

THE 20 ESSENTIAL AMINO ACIDS INCLUDE: alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalaine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Women also feel more sensitive during this period of their lives, as evidenced by the many satires, blogs and forums shedding light on its debilitating effects.

Their skin thins and becomes more sensitive to the sun and the environment.

It is more reactive and has long-lasting damage such as age spots and increased fragility. Hormone replacement therapies can cause new forms of skin acne such as tiny bumps or deep pustules. Increased sweating compounds these symptoms.

The skin changes that can occur at this time of life are so significant that menopausal women often say that they just "don't recognize their skin anymore."

in spa interventions The wide variety of skin issues menopausal women face range from dryness, itchiness, oiliness and beyond; estheticians must be versed in various skin types to help these clients look younger. The main goals for this client demographic should be to stimulate collagen and elastin production, protect, seal and strengthen skin as well as reduce visual body hair growth.

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 Hydrate The key to preventing skin degradation in menopausal women is to preserve weaning moisture and suppleness. Use nourishing moisturizers, serums and facial masks to insulate facial skin, and incorporate quality anti-aging ingredients such as paraffin, fruit oil masks, caviar serum, rosehip, olive, jojoba and coconut oils into facial protocols.  Essential aminos Amino acids are the skin's building blocks; they protect against skin damage, repair and heal, prevent cell breakdown and moisturize. Collagen itself is comprised of amino acids.

Create an amino acid centric facial to rebuild crucial skin proteins and strength. Select products that incorporate key essential amino acids, particularly those that sit on the skin for prolonged periods of time such as serums, moisturizers and masks.  Protect Strengthen and protect skin with an anti-oxidizing facial. Antioxidants combat harsh external elements and protect

delicate skin. They calm and revitalize skin texture. Vitamins A, C and E, green tea, algae and resveratrol are highly effective skin rejuvenators and perfectors. Antioxidants perform best when combined together, so offer a facial that combines several antioxidants, from cleansing to the final mask, for maximum results.  Collagen boosting Copper peptide treatments are an excellent way to stimulate collagen production. Copper is the key mineral in lysyl oxidase, an enzyme that weaves together collagen and elastin, so it also fights skin damage. Skin benefits from copper-based treatments include an immediately improved texture and a gorgeous glow.  Renewal Alpha-hydroxy acids, plant or milk-derived, dissolve dead skin and allow new skin cells to form in their place. AHA face washes or direct application allow for increased penetration of products applied thereafter to skin. Similarly, fruit enzymes break down the keratin protein

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BORAGE KUKUI

MARULA PRIMROSE

skin menopausal skin in dead skin cells. These enzymes provide powerful antioxidants as they exfoliate, helping to protect the skin from further damage. Periodic enzyme peels provide significant results with little skin wounding and natural ingredients.

pressure along lymph nodes and gently stretch facial muscles to encourage circulation. Counteract the buildup of skin lines by massaging in the opposite direction of line formation to tighten skin and relax frown lines.

 EnLIGHTening Care Incorporate LED light into your anti-menopause facials. There are four different LED lights, all of different wavelengths and functions helpful to menopausal clients: amber builds new collagen and elastin; red reduces inflammation and promotes circulation; blue destroys acne-causing bacteria; and infrared accelerates skin recovery.

 Hairy situation Unwanted facial and body hair is another symptom of menopause. Hairs can be coarse or fine, moderate or abundant.

This increase in unwanted facial hair may be accompanied by another unappealing hair related symptom — thinning scalp hair. Reduce unsightly new hair growths with in-spa hair removal treatment. Focus on gentle laser, electrolysis, threading, wax, plucking or IPL hair removal therapies. Address thinning hair via scalp treatments with intense massage and hair growth boosting keratin, amino acids and coconut oil to counteract hair loss.

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 Massage magic Lymphatic massage promotes antiaging benefits by encouraging cellular waste disposal, increasing blood flow, promoting hormonal balance and reducing skin stress. Contour skin and counteract skin sagging by massaging it in an upward motion. Apply gentle

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 Medical esthetics During menopause, the skin's natural hyaluronic stores diminish, causing skin

to thin, sink and lose connective tissue volume. There are a number of medical esthetic treatments that can address these effects.

Skin fillers can increase skin fullness and soften wrinkles by lessening skin folds and replenishing connective tissues. They fill deep lines and inhibit muscle movement, preventing the formation of new lines. Injectables can plump and smooth skin for periods of three to nine months at a time, depending on the method used.

Various forms of radiofrequency technology also provide advanced benefits, such as tightening and toning loose skin, promoting collagen production and reducing jaw line visibility.

home care regimen In order to preserve the effects of these targeted spa treatments, it is essential for clients to be on a preventative and restorative home care regimen.

To start, a hydrating cleansing regi-

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skin menopausal skin

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men helps counteract menopause dryness and sensitivity. An oil-based or gentle cleansing mousse cleansing that incorporates nourishing oils and avoids heavy fragrances is ideal, as are soothing skin ingredients like aloe vera and calendula. Acne-prone skins can benefit from a salicylic-based cleanser to gently reduce oiliness.

Focus on antioxidizing and protecting skin to prevent further degeneration and encourage cell renewal.

Recommend serums with vitamins A, C, green tea or resveratrol. Highly effective anti-aging ingredients include AHAs, retinols, peptides and hyaluronic acids, due to their ability to help regenerate skin's turnover process.

After regenerating skin, clients should hydrate to maintain skin plumpness, thickness and resiliency.

Moisturizers and serums with hyaluronic acid and glycerin help soothe skin dryness. Advise clients to apply these topical products by massaging

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upward to build collagen and stimulate blood flow.

Sun exposure must be avoided!

Because skin is thinner and more sensitive, sun exposure can wreak havoc on this more vulnerable skin.

Heightened age sensitivities call for the use of broad spectrum SPF 30 with titanium dioxide and zinc to protect skin from both UVA and UVB rays.

Menopausal skin is increasingly prone to deep brown spots, so protection is especially crucial, particularly if clients are using acids, peels or retinolbased products.

the lifestyle factor To counteract menopausal skin issues, women must fight back with both internal and external change.

Make sure you explain to your clients that a well-balanced anti-aging skin care regimen includes healthy and balanced lifestyle choices. They can

achieve this with an antioxidantrich diet high in anti-inflammatory ingredients, getting proper sleep, exercise and managing stress.

A combination of tailored spa treatments, home care regimens and a healthy lifestyle can all come together to make your clients look and feel more youthful, slow down their aging process and maintain their amazing glow! ď Ž

Bella Schneider is the founder and CEO of LaBelle Day Spas & Salons and an international product formulator and distributor through Bella Schneider Beauty (BSB).

In her 40 years of experience in skin care science, Schneider has been an innovator in ethnic skin care, peels and peer education.

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THE ULTIMATE REJUVENATION

The antioxidant-rich Stem Cell Face and Eye Complex products by Nature Pure Labs are moisturizing facial treatments for ULTIMATE skin rejuvenation. They stimulate epidermal skin cell regeneration with Swedish green apple derived stem cells, a patented blend of soy isoflavones, acai berry and resveratrol. This duo effectively works to dissolve signs of aging to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

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SKIN ENERGIZER The perfect delivery for the most pesky skin conditions! Vita C Peptide Serum + LLS Delivery by Skin For Life is excellent for aging, dark spots, discoloration, uneven complexions, and daily redness. This product energizes all skin types with firming properties. Excellent for various pigment, oily, sun damaged, mature and sensitive skin conditions!

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the anti-aging answer Deep, rich hydration on the double by Control Corrective! The result of exciting new breakthroughs in bio-technology, liposomeencapsulated fruit stem cells combine with lactic acid and natural moisturizing agents to help slow down the rapid aging of skin cells. This Stem Cell Firming Moisturizer is perfect for all skin types showing early signs of aging.

866.290.4290 controlcorrective.com

a natural skincare revolution

The Kombucha Cleanser from emerginC is designed to treat a variety of skin care concerns such as acne and dull and sensitive skin. Made with kombucha, grape stem cells, algae, tea and maritime pine bark extract, this formula is ideal for naturally fighting free radical damage. This cleanser is made with 70 percent organic ingredients and emerginC’s signature blend of C vitamins.

800.257.9597 emerginc.com

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paired perfection

A peptide boost in full blast! Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare’s Refresh Eye Serum Collection features TWO moisture serums for COMPLETE eye care. Refresh and Refresh PM contain actives that increase collagen and elastin while reducing puffiness and dark circles. These products assure an awakened and fresh appearance. Utilize these richly hydrating, peptide-boosting and anti-aging products to restore a healthy barrier around the eyes!

877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com

a radiant glow

Peptide perfection from Circadia! A unique combination of exotic berries from Australia partnered with the exfoliating properties of lactic and mandelic acids, designed to nourish, moisturize and brighten skin for a healthy and radiant appearance. Be the first to experience this Australian Super-Berry Antioxidant Mask, Snow Algae & Spirulina Cooling Mask and Firming Peptide Mask!

954.525.9665 thalgousa.com

THE PERFECT MATCH

The new Rhonda Allison Pro-Youth Accelerated Duo captures the power of vitamins A and C for 24-hour collagen support. The duo brings together the skin-strengthening C-Stem cells with rejuvenating SynErgy A to support and rebuild the skin.

866.313.7546 rhondaallison.com

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

Harnessing the unique power of regenerative marine intelligence, Prodige des Océans Essence by Thalgo combines the best of the five oceans to infuse the skin with 61 marine biomimetic nutrients essential to the skin. The product leaves a clear, refined complexion, perfectly even skin tone, younger-looking skin and exceptional radiance.

SkinNews

regenerating essence

800.630.4710 circadia.com

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LNE & Spa Best

Winners

Anti-Pollution

Anti-Cellulite

CelleClé

M’lis

Omega-Zyme C The perfect combination of papaya, pineapple and cranberry to clarify the skin and gently lift polluted cells for a luminous complexion!

cellecleskincare.com

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Contour Body Wrap Cream

Ampoules Sesderma

Acglicolic Classic Forte Ampoules Ignite life back into the skin with an ampoule designed to protect, hydrate and repair aged skin through the stimulation of collagen.

sesdermausa.com

Acne GR8/SKN

RESET Rebooting Night Treatment

A natural, invigorating cream designed to help shed those last stubborn inches and rid the body of beauty-robbing toxins.

Improving the complexion without irritation – yes, please!

A gentle dose of vitamin A to normalize the skin and stop excess oil production.

mlis.com

gr8skn.com

LNE & Spa Best

Aromatherapy Eve Taylor

Hug in a Bottle Diffuser Blend Pure indulgence for the perfect pamper! This product gently soothes the senses and allows the burdens of emotional frustration to ebb away.

eve-taylor.com

Beauty Oil Vital Assist

EsterPlex Beauty Oil

Body Lotion

A beyond basic beauty oil perfect for a nourishing moisture boost!

Ideal for use on the face, neck, hands, hair and cuticles.

Skin B-juvenate

vitalassist.com

Synergie

A daily lightweight cosmeceutical body lotion designed to naturally improve the appearance and luminosity of uneven skin tone on the body.

synergieskin.com

Yay YOU!

Bath Soak Farmhouse Fresh

Rosemary-Mint Tea Mineral Bath Soak

Body Exfoliant Bon Vital'

Lavender & Rosemary Salt Glow

Sore muscles are in for a splendid surprise! These mineral-rich salts are designed to ease muscle tension while bringing a weightless feel to the bath water.

Refresh, revive and reveal a healthy glow! Flaky, dry or dull skin is never an issue with this stimulating body exfoliant formula.

farmhousefreshgoods.com

bonvital.com

Congratulations!

YOU are the 2017 title- holders of LNE & Spa BEST.

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Brightening Le Mieux

Equipment for the Face

A skin-perfecting system to clear congested pores, improve uneven skin tone, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and blemishes!

Edge Systems

Perfect Renewal System

lemieuxcosmetics.com

Hydrafacial MD

Evenly exfoliate, extract and remove impurities and dead skin cells while replenishing vital nutrients with this multi-step treatment delivery system.

hydrafacial.com

Brow

Cleanser

Revitalash

Lipo Light Pro

PurErb

Vitality Deep Cleansing Oil

Non-invasive Body Contouring

A remarkable cosmetic innovation!

Dramatically enhance the beauty of natural eyebrows with this exclusive brow-enhancing serum!

Prevent dehydration and wash away skin impurities with this luxurious rinse-off oil cleanser.

Perfect for leaving skin refreshed, smooth and radiant!

Naturally slim, shape and tone the body with this advanced slimming and toning program‌ The latest treatment for non-invasive body contouring!

revitalash.com

purerbskincare.com

lipolightpro.com

RevitaBrow Premium Brow-enhancing Conditioner

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Equipment for the Body

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LNE & Spa Best

Hair Removal Nufree Nudesse

Non-wax Hair Remover Kiss unwanted hair goodbye! This botanical method of liquid hair removal is natural, self-preserving, antibacterial and perfect for eliminating undesirable hair.

Face Mist Lady Burd

Perfect Finish Purifying Spray A soothing face tonic blended with botanicals to calm and refresh skin while detoxifying, hydrating, clarifying and refining pores.

ladyburd.com

Eye Treatment Éminence Organic Skin care

nufree-professionals.com

Hibiscus Ultra Lift Eye Cream

Tighten skin instantly while rapidly de-puffing tired eyes and smoothing wrinkles with this cooling, stainless steel roller ball massager!

eminenceorganics.com

Beautiful skin begins with exceptional skin care.

Face Handheld

Detox

Methode Brigitte kettner

M.A.D. Skin Care

Hand-held Microdermabrasion Device

The skin’s perfect shield against environmental aggressors! Protect and nourish skin with this rich botanical mask for a long-lasting healthy look!

A vacuum lift system designed to increase blood flow and bring oxygen to the surface while stimulating natural collagen production, creating a youthful complexion!

mad-skincare.com

mbkskincare.com

Environmental Detox Mask

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LNE & Spa Best

Inner Beauty Skinade

Lash Conditioner

Collagen Drink Drink up! This product restores skin's youthful appearance, improves tone, texture and hydration while smoothing lines and improving skin suppleness.

us.skinade.com

Grande Naturals

GrandeLash

The perfect eyelash conditioner to give lashes a fuller and thicker look!

Created with an exclusive blend of vitamins, peptides and amino acids.

Pamper those sore muscles!

These Ayurvedic herbal and base oils help soothe and calm inflamed joints and muscles for the perfect relief!

Innovative

Lips

Bella Schneider Beauty

Éminence Organic Skin care

Bella Issimo Roller

Lip Comfort Plumping Mask

This facial massage roller gently stimulates skin's blood flow, allowing oxygen to the surface while revitalizing sagging facial muscles.

These fruit enzymes refine the lip area while a delicious minty non-petroleum balm stimulates lip-plumping collagen.

bellaschneiderbeauty.com

eminenceorganics.com

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Shankara

Muscle Release Oil

grandelashmd.com

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Massage

shankara.com

Aging is a fact.

Looking your age is not.

LNE & Spa Best

Hand & Foot

Mask Sesha Skin Therapy

Cell – White Brightening Mask

Combining the most advanced peptides and antioxidants, this mask beautifully brightens skin color while cucumber extracts soothe, hydrate and tone the skin.

seshaskin.com

Patchology

Poshpeel

Men’s Line Ra for Men

Complex VI Hydrating Serum Every man's skin can enjoy the raw infusion of wines, sea-water and plant derived nutrients from this ideal dose of hydration!

Incredibly effective, extremely luxurious! PoshPeel puts powerful acids to work as they dissolve dead skin, leaving clients relaxed and pampered!

patchology.com

ramethod.com

Light Therapy Biophotas

Celluma LITE

A treat for the entire body! This compact device can be used anywhere on the body, including over the face to treat uncomfortable skin conditions, acne and pain.

biophotas.com

Face Exfoliant Lira Clinical

MYSTIQ iLuminating Polisher Purify skin with this luxury skin brightening cream cleanser that is both hydrating and soothing. The perfect glow!

liraclinical.com

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LNE & Spa Best

MOISTURIZER CAVIAR OF SWITZERLAND

24h Regenerating Cream

MICROCURRENT BIO-THERAPEUTIC

This concentrated lightweight silky cream effectively regenerates and moisturizes skin while improving elasticity and maintaining healthy skin conditions.

caviarofswitzerland.us

MAKEUP KRYOLAN

Pure Pigments Extremely intense color! With this amazing product, eye shadow color effects can easily be amplified with more than 30 different colors to choose from.

us.kryolan.com

bt-micro

This ultrasonic device works by creating high-speed oscillations that leave skin smooth, fresh and perfectly prepared for product application.

bio-therapeutic.com

Be�the�change� you�wish�to� see�in�the� world.

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NECK & DÉCOLLETÉ PCA

PRE & POST WAX RELAX AND WAX

Perfecting Neck and Décolleté

No Scream Cream

Designed specifically to target loose skin on the neck and chest, this corrective cream quickly and dramatically hydrates and reduces discolorations of the skin.

The perfect pain-free waxing solution! Use this exceptional cream on all areas of the body including bikini area, lip, eyebrows, underarms and legs!

pcaskin.com

relaxnwax.com

LNE & Spa Best

Peels DermAware

Go Spot Go Peel Providing holistic elements, this advanced pigment control peel was designed to treat environmental pigmentation, sunspots, acne breakouts and rosacea.

dermaware.com

Scalp Environ Skin Care

Hair and Scalp Tonic

This non-greasy, non-irritating, easy-to-use hair tonic is formulated to help enhance the appearance of healthy hair and assist in moisturizing the scalp.

environskincare.com

Peptides Skin for Life

Vita C Peptide Serum An elegant serum with built in brighteners for uneven complexions. Let the skin indulge itself as it feels energized and freshly firmed!

skinforlife.com

Mud Skin Blends

Mineral Clay Mask This unique mask exfoliates and hydrates skin with pelan silt — a mineral-rich, chlorophyll-colored organic silt found in river beds.

skinblends.com

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LNE & Spa Best

Sun Care Line Verdure

Matte Moisturizing Mineral Sunscreen Moisturizing with vegetable-derived ceramides, this mineral sunscreen is paraben, fragrance and oil-free with the highest rating water resistance of 80 minutes.

verdureskin.com

Spray Tanning

Spa Software

Fake Bake

Self-tanning Airbrush Spray

Spa Booker

An instantly bronzed look from head to toe! This quick-drying formula combines natural actives with two potent tanning ingredients for beautiful, rich skin tones.

Spa Management Software

us.fakebake.com

spa-booker.com

Everything has beauty‌ Just give it a little hand!

Complete customer profiles at your fingertips! This software aligns your client’s staff and service preference, membership level and more, all from one device.

Spa Table Equipro Premium Spa Equipment For facials, therapeutic massages, electrolysis, depilation and more, these esthetic and spa tables ensure your clients receive the utmost in luxury and relaxation!

equipro-bty.com

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LNE & Spa Best

Permanent Makeup Nouveau Contour

Stem Cell Lucrèce

Vitamin C Cream with Stem Cells A powerful treatment cream to firm the skin, lift loose skin, and smooth away fine lines and wrinkles for a youthful, radiant appearance.

Intelligent Device

A computerized pigmentation device used for both cosmetic and medical micropigmentation procedures. Available for eyebrows, eyes, lips and medical micropigmentation!

nouveaucontourusa.com

lucrece.com

Sunless Glow

Serum

Melanie Mills Hollywood

Vital C

Gleam Body Radiance A revolutionary makeup, moisturizer and glow all in one! This product was designed to fill wrinkles and tighten skin, leaving nothing on the skin but velvet perfection.

melaniemillshollywood.com

Wellness

Image Skincare

Balanced Guru

This high potency Vitamin C hydrating facial cleanser gently removes makeup and impurities while essential antioxidants and vitamins soothe dry, dehydrated skin.

imageskincare.com

Hug Me Organic Body Butter

This rich and creamy body butter is complete for moisturizing skin and stimulating the body and mind, smoothing not only rough skin, but rough edges of the day too!

balancedguru.com

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For Voting GrandeLASH-MD Favorite Lash Conditioner For 4 Consecutive Years!

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LNEonline.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #286 on reader service card

Be Bold. Be Beautiful . Be Grande. www.grandelashmd.com | www.grandewholesale.com | 1.877.835.3010 YOUR LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR

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ALTAIRE MEDICAL SPA FARGO, NORTH DAKOTA Delivering the highest level of training, knowledge and products, Altaire Medical Spa, located in Fargo, N.D., has become the top medical spa in the state because of its state-of-the-art technology and exceptional staff dedication. Since opening their doors in August of 2016, the spa has discovered how to balance the art of science alongside cosmetic dermatology to enhance a natural, unique appearance in each of their clients.

Each team member at Altaire Medical Spa strives to receive the latest knowledge on the most innovative technology in the industry while dealing with the daily internal endeavors of a newly opened spa. by

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Amanda Clinton Winter

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spa spa of the month

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spa spa of the month Amanda Clinton Winter is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

RUNDOWN ALTAIRE MEDICAL SPA 5257 27th Street South Suite 201 Fargo, N.D. 58104 LAUNCH: August 2016 SPA OWNERS: Rick Schue and

Tamra Schue-Garberg BUSINESS MANAGER: Amanda Skudlarek TOTAL STAFF MEMBERS (4): 1 ANCC board-certified practitioner, 1 ANCC board-certified doctor, 1 licensed esthetician/cosmetologist/ certified salon professional, 1 business administrator CLIENT COMPOSITION: 80 percent female, 20 percent male SQUARE FEET: 3,500 sq. ft.

STAFF TO GUEST RATIO: 2:1 AMENITIES: Seven treatment rooms, one onsite lab, yoga and spin room and juice bar.

TREATMENT BREAKDOWN: 97 percent medical spa treatments RETAIL LINES: iS Clinical and Epionce

SPA OWNER SPOTLIGHT Tamra Schue-Garberg is an ANCC (American Nurses Credentialing Center USA) board-certified doctor of nursing and family nurse practitioner specializing in cosmetic dermatology. Bringing together the art and science of cosmetic dermatology, Tamra uses FDA-approved products and clinically studied noninvasive procedures to rejuvenate skin and address a variety of skin conditions.

Also an ANCC board-certified practitioner, Rick Schue uses advanced cosmetic dermatology procedures and lasers to restore aging and damaged skin. He has more than 16 years of proficient practice using advanced cosmetic dermatology procedures and lasers. Rick is one of North Dakota’s most experienced practitioners of skin regeneration procedures, lasers and tattoo removal procedures. In conjunction with his regular practice, Rick is a preceptor for North Dakota State University’s nursing program and a published author in his field.

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pop up

SPAS THE RISE OF A NEW TREND

S

etting up shop at an event is nothing new for the spa industry. But many spas are taking the pop-up spa to new levels by bringing their treatments everywhere from hospitals to yachts to beach cabanas to law offices as a way to grow their clientele, create buzz for their business and add a new revenue stream.

"A pop-up spa is not guaranteed to generate a profit, but it can. It's a fun opportunity to get our spa in front of potential new clients who may just need a few minutes of pampering and it's a

great way for our staff to bond outside of the spa," says Tiffany Amorosino, CEO and co-founder of Bella SantĂŠ Spa, which has three locations in Massachusetts.

That said, the pop-up might also surprise you and generate revenue, especially if you sell small gift-like products and/or gift cards.

"It can be great supplemental income if you do it right," says Bruce Schoenberg, owner of Oasis Day Spas in New York, which also serves as a pop-up spa provider in nine major metropolitan areas in the U.S.

by Carrie Borzillo

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spa pop up spas

HERE'S HOW TO DO IT...

•• CHOOSE THE VENUE WISELY An ideal site is somewhere with heavy foot traffic of people who enjoy beauty and wellness products and practices.

"Luxury hotels that don't offer spa services or retail stores in our market are great places," says Amorosino. Nancy Reagan, CEO and creator of Bella Reina Spa in Delray Beach, Fla., says,"Anywhere that has a room or a connection of rooms can become a pop-up spa. You can even do a pop-up spa with tents. We've done them at parties and events, in clients' houses, out by pool cabanas on the ocean, and also on yachts."

However, a business with a built-in clientele of large staff teams in need of some pampering is an equally lucrative option.

"We target events and venues where we know our target audience will be, and we also do about 100 staff appreciation days a year, working with hospitals, hotels and local businesses," says Schoenberg.

•• SET THE MOOD Draw up a floor plan of what you want your pop-up to look like and make a list of furniture or decorations you may have to rent. "Try to bring as much from the spa as possible – especially POS products that people may want to purchase," says Amorosino.

The key to a great pop-up, says Reagan, is creating the mood. "We try to use dividers (even material) between the clients 54

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to separate the services. The challenge is taking your setting and converting it into a blissful, peaceful place. For example, it's awesome to have the ocean backdrop, but you cannot have lawn mowers or tree trimmers around that day," she explains.

Don't forget the details. "Create a spa atmosphere. We like to serve tea, water, and snacks, plus have music, aromatherapy and hot towels," adds Reagan.

Stay on point visually. If your spa colors are pink and black, your pop-up spa should be pink and black too. "Think of your spa and what your brand means to customers. You try to recreate that in the pop-up," says Reagan. And of course, make sure your spa signage and logo are visible.

•• PLAN THE TREATMENTS Ask what the client wants first and then plan accordingly. Most pop-ups are a minimum of three hours with a sampling of mini-services, such as chair or table massage, hand and/or foot massage, reflexology, mini-manicure, eyebrow shaping and sometimes mini-facials.

"Interview the client thoroughly to see why they're doing it, what they want, and how many employees they plan to treat,” says Schoenberg. “If they have 50 employees, we guestimate that about 80 percent might participate if it's an open-minded type of company (60 percent if it's a law firm) and calculate

that we'll need three therapists for the three hours at $95 per therapist plus 20 percent gratuity." If the pop-up is less than three hours, Oasis charges more — $115 per therapist plus applicable service tax and 20 percent gratuity.

If you're having a pop-up at an evening party or event, guests are likely done up with their makeup on. "So, you probably want to stay away from any sort of facial treatments or waxing and focus on something else like nails or massage," says Amorosino.

•• SELL AND RETAIN Pick a few key small retail items and gift cards to sell at the pop-up. "The retail is very limited for the pop-up spa. We always connect at least one product to one service, such as hand cream for the hand/arm massage," says Reagan.

For retention, Schoenberg sends out his most personable therapists who know how to market. "They hand them a brochure, a voucher to encourage them to come back, and we get their email address on site. We're really getting paid to market to their employees!" he says.  Carrie Borzillo is an award-winning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships.

Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@gmail.com.

“Inspired by Nature... realized by Science.”

LUCRÈC E PH YS I C I A N S ’ A E S TH E T IC RESEARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lucrece.com LNEonline.com february2017 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

55

all-in-one solution

Collagen gloves to meet every need! The single pair of non-drip, double layer gloves with pre-cut fingers from Voesh take care of your hands as you work. Infused with collagen and shea butter for the ultimate hand treatment, they provide intense hydration that helps fill in the lines and wrinkles that form with age. They restore ultimate moisture for smoother and more youthful looking hands!

516.935.2888 voesh.com

waxing guru

GiGi® introduces an innovation in waxing; Flex Wax™ — one part soft wax, one part hard wax and 100 percent ah-mazing! Its unique formula is enhanced with nutrient-rich coconut oil to keep wax soft and workable. This product is excellent for use on large areas of the body and convenient for waxing more than one area of the body in one service.

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

SPANews

kiss cellulite goodbye

This wireless hand piece is used with Saian BioContour Cellulite Gel. The Mini Cavi-Pro transmits ultrasonic waves, which consist of compression/ expansion impulses that travel in high-speed cycles. Ultrasound frequencies cause thousands of microscopic air bubbles to surround the fat cell membranes to create pressure and cause the cells to break up instantly. Fatty acids are released into the bloodstream, preventing them from clumping together and forming bumpy cellulite.

800.291.1130 saian.net

anti-aging innovation

More than just natural! KEYS Reflex Pro-Biome Anti-Aging Serum brings whole plant botanicals to skin care. “Clean” gets new meaning with 100 percent ingredient disclosure and zero man-made chemicals.

Everyday-safe for women and men. Vegan, never tested on animals and gluten-free.

859.912.1488 keys-soap.com

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323.728.2999 gigispa.com

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long-term hydration solution

Featuring smart new hydration technology! This ultra-light, age-defying Hydration Serum from Revision has updated its formula to contain two types of hyaluronic acid and fruit extracts to keep skin uniformly hydrated for the short and long-term. The Hydrating Serum can be used alone or layered with other products for a boosting effect. The oil-free, water-smooth texture leaves skin feeling soft and balanced.

800.385.6652 revisionskincare.com

absolute applicator

The Hansderma SkinSoft Silicone Facial Applicator and Hairless Silicone Brush can be used to apply creams, facial masks, mud masks and more. This very soft, convenient and easy to use brush is also perfect for removing product from skin. Avoid losing brush hairs and wasting products in the brush; this applicator is heavyduty and easy to wash!

323.728.2999 ext. 280 cleanandeasyspa.com

skin quencher Made with pure and natural ingredients, the smoothness and silkiness of Whipped Hand & Body Butter by Sans Skincare is unlike anything else, with moisturizing effects that last all day! Acquire the pure concentrated plant oils and butters without any synthetic or harmful chemicals. Perfect for retail and easy to use and maintain for years in your practice.

301.801.4201 sansskincare.com

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

Clean+Easy’s Zinc Oxide Ultra Sensitive Wax is perfect for gentle, effective hair removal on sensitive skin. The zinc oxide shields skin from irritation and reduces pain, inflammation and redness. The creamy consistency effortlessly smooths over skin and whisks away fine to medium hair, making it the perfect wax solution for every sensitive area.

SPANews

soothE and remove

562.927.8025 hansderma.net

Visit LNEonline.com for more news LNEonline.com

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NEW EVENT

It’s Time for a Wellness Shift in Your Spa. Has wellness ever been more relevant than in 2016?

Now 2017 dawns! Stand out and start offering unique wellness programs that encompass the BODY, MIND

AND

SPIRIT.

This is your conference!

APRIL 1 - 3, 2017 • DALLAS, TX S H E R AT O N A R L I N G T O N H O T E L Co-hosted By The International Congress Of Esthetics And Spa

FO R REG I ST RAT I O N D ETAILS VISIT

LN EO N LIN E .C O M LNEonline.com

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BEHIND THE SPA DOOR Tiffany Lewis

with of Tiffany Lewis Skincare Spa in Saint Charles, Ill.

“I wear many hats. I am the owner, manager, esthetician, bookkeeper, marketing and social media director and even the cleaning lady…”

Concept How would you define your spa?

Tiffany Lewis Skincare Spa is a small, two-person operation specializing in skin care, eyebrow design and custom facials that incorporate the latest esthetic technologies, plant-based treatments and relaxation techniques.

What are your most popular treatments?

Our Eyebrow Design services, custom Preservation Facial and our Refine + Brighten Ultrasonic Therapy Facial.

Facility How many treatment rooms do you have?

We have only one treatment room; we are a very small and intimate boutique spa. Our treatment room is set up so that it functions very well for all of our services. It is a private room with a padded, heated and very comfortable spa bed.

Leadership Role What daily challenges do you encounter?

I wear many hats. I am the owner, manager, esthetician, bookkeeper, marketing and social media director and even the cleaning lady, which means being organized is vital. My biggest challenge is scheduling.

Finding the perfect balance between my schedule and my employee’s, and keeping our cancellations at a minimum.

How do you manage stress from work?

I’ve practiced yoga for 17 years and it is the best way to relax. I also love to garden; it is my personal therapy.

What takes most of your time every day?

I am a spa owner, but I am an esthetician first. The majority of my day is spent happily “on the floor,” in service with my clients. I work an average of 35 hours a week in the treatment room, plus roughly five additional hours of administrative work.

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Team building

Retail And Revenue

What is your hiring process?

What are your retail goals?

I have only one employee, but bringing her into my business was the biggest step I made since first opening my doors. Finding a staff member who truly feels they belong in your spa, is passionate about their work, contributes in a positive way to your overall business and makes your life easier involves more than one interview. After thoroughly reading an applicant’s resume and contacting their references, I recommend having him or her come into your spa for a few days to shadow your staff. Interview them again for feedback on their experience. This gives you the chance to see if the applicant’s personality and education is a good fit.

Fifteen percent of total sales. We have exceeded that for the past three years running, so I am increasing that goal to 17 for 2017.

How do you train your employee?

We incentivize our clients to purchase skin care retail primarily through education of our products and their ingredients. We keep our products reasonably priced and twice per year we design a special sale. I prefer not to offer too frequent sales or discount too deeply, because that undercuts your profits as a business owner.

I recommend at least three weeks of shadowing current estheticians before any new employee is put out on the floor.

Have your new hire give services to staff and current clients under your lead esthetician’s supervision before sending her out on her own. Check in frequently with them throughout their first three months.

Make sure all of their questions and concerns are being addressed and that they are finding their rhythm and confidence.

What incentives do you have to keep your employee motivated?

I recently increased the percentage that my employee receives for retail from 10 to 20 percent. Another key is recognition. My employee has a signature facial on our menu that is her own. Allowing your employees to have the responsibility of their own specialty services is a fantastic way to show them you trust them.

How do you incentivize clients to purchase your retail products?

Marketing Describe your marketing techniques.

How do you keep your employee happy?

It’s important to express your appreciation and confidence in your employees on a regular basis. If a staff member has a particularly awesome day, show them appreciation with words of affirmation.

Free products and a cash bonus never hurt either!

We focus on sending emails to our clients letting them know about new services and promotions. We also have promotional signs and posters around our spa advertising different services throughout the year.

Exceptional Client Care

Also keep your spa and treatment room immaculate.

Also, because we only have one treatment room, it is imperative to get clients in the habit of pre-booking their appointments before they leave. We are usually booked up to a month in advance. Online booking is convenient, but clients can forget or start growing accustomed to booking or canceling at the last minute. Lastly, keep the focus on them and their needs.

What incentives do you offer to make sure your clients come back again?

We incorporate the trifecta of the best skin care services available today: Utilizing quality plant-based products and treatments, providing as much massage and relaxation techniques as possible in the time allotted and incorporating the latest esthetics technology and equipment. We provide the best value and experience.

Tips For Spa Leaders What are the most important lessons you have learned from failures or challenges that you can share with others in your career path?

The Great Recession of 2009 was the most challenging time for my business.

My sales dropped 13 percent that year, but I survived and went on to thrive in the years following because I was always mindful of my budget. The greatest lesson I learned was one of the most important for any business owner: Don’t overspend.

How do you evaluate your employee?

How do you keep clients loyal?

What advice could you give someone who would like to manage a spa?

We arrange quarterly one-on-one meetings to evaluate performance, which I believe is crucial to every successful business. During these meetings, it’s important to ask your employees for their feedback as well as give them any constructive criticism in regards to particular services or customer care.

Provide a caliber of services that far surpasses their expectations (and your competition). When you consistently provide an amazing experience, your clients won’t want to go anywhere else. Stay passionate, continue your education, enrich your treatments and provide exceptional customer service.

Figure out what will make you happiest in your career path and your life as a whole. There is no right or wrong, there is only what it means to you, and you are entitled to follow that individual path.

Be excited and passionate about your career, but keep two feet planted firmly on the ground.  LNEonline.com

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THRIVING BUSINESS Thinking Outside the Box to Build Your Brand

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lbert Einstein is often accredited for defining insanity as, “Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result.” So, let me ask you: When was the last time you took a really good look at your business? Is it status quo? Same old thing, each and every day? If so, now’s the time to shake things up!

It sounds odd, but businesses are a lot like relationships — without hard work, they’re equally prone to complacency. Even if you have a great product and offer excellent customer service, the key to thriving rather than simply surviving is to constantly keep it fresh. Building your brand (as opposed to “just selling”) requires both an open mind and a willingness to think outside the box.

Reinventing Your Business 101 Let’s start by taking a look at the services you offered over the past 12 months, and how much income they generated. Ask yourself: “Do I want to duplicate the exact same results next year?” Well, you will — unless you do something different.

I’m not referring to a significant departure from your current business model, but rather kicking things up a notch.

For example, last year every facial was a facial. A really good facial, but nothing more. Next year, every facial will be a facial plus a hot towel wrap and stone massage so that you develop a reputation as the facialist who always provides extra pampering at no additional charge (even though you may choose to slightly increase your prices — you still offer the extra as a built-in cost).

by Louis Silberman

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business a thriving business

Changing It Up If you started your business more than a few years ago, you already know how much has changed in terms of media and consumer shopping habits. Today, nearly everything is available electronically — paper’s out, technology is in.

Consumers are making more purchases online and communicating by social media. In keeping with these significant trends, you, too, should shift your marketing approach toward social media, email, apps, Google and online marketing. If technology makes you sweat, hire a high school or college student to help you — but don’t be afraid to learn something new.

Tracking Results As any scientist or good business person knows, you can’t change what you don’t know. So, if you haven’t been tracking either your efforts or results, and instead going by a gut feeling of “more” or “fewer” clients — you have some work to do. Tracking results doesn’t have to involve complicated

spreadsheets (although, if they help you and you enjoy them — go for it!); it could be something as simple as ensuring that anyone who answers your phone asks new customers how they found you, and recording that information. Also, perform a monthly review of recorded sales, purchases and expenses. When you’re easily able to pull up this type of data, you’ll instantly know whether to continue your efforts or change them without worrying about unpleasant and often costly surprises months down the road.

What’s Your WOW factor?

Businesses need to stand apart from the competition in order to excel, and one of the ways to do that is with a point of difference — your WOW factor. However, business owners sometimes mistakenly convince themselves that a WOW factor isn’t in their budget, because they associate it with expensive fixtures in the reception area, giant bouquets of fresh flowers delivered weekly and champagne-on-tap for customers. But WOW-ing clients is

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HYALURONIC BASED WRINKLE FILLERS THE ULTIMATE ANTI AGING TREATMENT

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www.biojouvance.com

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800.272.1716

Sculpt

TM

The intelligent, non-surgical alternative to liposuction SculptLightTM: latest in the line of body sculpting technology by My Wellness – with improved performance, enhanced flexible pads and touch screen technology for more intuitive operation and control.

SculptLightTM is a safe and painless LED system that can be used on all skin types and most body areas. There is no downtime and following sessions you can return to normal activity.

Results can be seen immediately. Individuals have lost anywhere from two inches to six inches* in abdomen circumference over a course of eight sessions.

Advantages of SculptLightTM technology Results can be seen after a 20 minute treatment Results improve after every treatment No pain, no needles, no downtime!

SculptLightTM helps slim specific problem areas in conjunction with diet and exercise, such as the abdomen, chin, upper arms, thighs and buttocks.

This is a big advantage over diet and exercise alone which can reduce overall body fat but not help shape individual areas. Results are long lasting with a balanced lifestyle.

The SculptLightTM photo-chemically releases fat from the Cells to achieve inch loss, however the process is dependent on the body metabolizing the released fat in order for the inch loss to occur.

Technical options The SculptLightTM systems have been designed to use up to 6 large flexible treatment pads, each with 128 LEDs to maximize the areas you can treat.

See the results for yourself

Revenue Projections The average client will undergo an 8 treatment 30 day program The National Average for a Package is $799 or $100 per session Return on investment in as little as 18 clients 8 Session Package Packages Sold Per Month 3 Packages 6 Packages 12 Packages 24 Packages

Monthly Revenue $1,797 $3,594 $7,188 $14,376

$599 Yearly Revenue $21,564 $43,128 $86,256 $172,512

100 clients per year can generate over

Average Session Charge Sessions Per Day Daily Revenue 2 Sessions $150 5 Sessions $375 10 Sessions $750 15 Sessions $1,125 *Based on being open 6 days a week

*Individual results vary and are not guaranteed.

Sculpt Light A Division of My Wellness, 65 Sea Cliff Avenue, Glen Cove, New York

Find out more call...

888-278-2982 toll free or email...

$75 Yearly Revenue* $46,800 $117,000 $234,000 $351,000

info@sculptlightUSA.com

SculptlightUSA.com

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business a thriving business really all about the memory you leave with them. That little bit of extra time or care that you share so that they race off to praise you on Facebook, telling 150 of their friends about you — that’s a WOW factor. It doesn’t really matter what the gesture is, as long as it’s worthy of a mention on Facebook or other social media.

Leveraging Online Reviews

photo credit: GongTo / Shutterstock.com

Millions of today’s consumers depend on Yelp, Google+, Facebook, or other social media sites to assist with their buying decisions — which means they’re looking at your online reviews, too. How are your reviews? How many do you have? You need more than one or two! If a client showers you with compliments in person, ask them to post about you on social media. Most people are happy to do so, especially when they’ve had an outstanding experience. However, if they seem reluctant, offer a small incentive like a discount on a future service.

Inevitably, there will be some negative posts, too. Some people complain no matter what. Don’t let it get you down — but deal with it ASAP. Respond swiftly and professionally so that the public sees that you care. A failure to respond to negative reviews can be far more damaging than the negative reviews. Reach out personally to the grumbler, and do what you can do to make it right (within reason). Once they’re happy, ask them to kindly update their review, and then thank them online.

Be a PR Star You don’t have to hire a public relations agency at $150-$200 an hour to get the word out about your business. Find someone just out of college who can send story ideas to local media outlets. You can do it yourself too, but you have to have an angle. For example, you could pitch a story about couples getting Botox together for Valentine’s Day, or one about acne treatments for teenagers — just in time for prom season. Timing is important, but just one or two bites can lead to hundreds of pitches that may be picked up and distributed on a much grander scale.

Always Thinking

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When I think of a hugely successful company, few would argue that Coca-Cola has done well. But even a company as profitable as Coke has reinvented itself — many times — over its lifetime.

Remember I talked about the WOW factor? Coke pulls it off by regularly introducing new products that meet consumer demand — vanilla Coke, lime Coke, zero calorie Coke, zero carb Coke — these are just a few examples of how the company is always trying to WOW customers with a new and exciting twist. Clearly, Coke is obsessed with not always doing the same thing.

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You can easily do this, too. With a little thinking outside the box and a good, hard look at your business each and every year, you’ll build a brand that will leave your clients saying, WOW. 

Louis “The Laser Guy” Silberman is CEO of National Laser Institute, a national cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center founded a decade ago, and owns medical spas in Scottsdale, Ariz., and Dallas, Texas. He’s the author of Make It Happen Online and a motivational marketing speaker.

Silberman created the sixth most visited health/beauty website and was a semi-finalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014. Contact him at louis@nationallaserinstitute.com.

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UP YOUR SKIN GAME with

Changing the Face of Skin Beautiful skin doesn't stop at the neck and neither should your services.

DiamondTome body wands is an universal solution to treat an array of neglected areas including backs, buttocks, thighs, knees, heels, elbows, feet and under arms. #upyourskingame with DiamondTome. | www.altairinstruments.com LNEonline.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243 on reader service card

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meet kryolan in new york

After much anticipation, Kryolan Professional Make-Up has opened its first NYC store in the heart of the West Village at 277 Bleecker Street. The 1,100 square foot space carries all of Kryolan’s best-selling products which include Dermacolor, Aquacolor and more. In addition, the store offers classes and seminars in a downstairs classroom beneath the retail space.

800.579.6526 us.kryolan.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

and the winner is...

successful hands

Biofreeze®, Massage Envy® and Bon Vital’® announce the winners of their third annual collaborative Successful Hands Grant Program.

This year’s program supported the professional massage therapy student in their educational pursuits. Students applied for one of eight $1,000 grants. In addition, each winner’s school receives a $1,000 grant package. All applicants were asked to complete a 200 word essay on “What being a successful massage therapist means to me.”

february2017

855.378.4772 gharieni.com

800.321.2135 ext. 281 performancehealth.com

power lunch

International skin care company and manufacturer Repêchage hosted their annual networking Champagne Power Lunch at the Repêchage Headquarters in Secaucus, N.J., to provide inspiration and insights for better business in 2017, and to launch the new Repêchage FUSION™ Face Mask Collection.

800.248.7546 repechage.com

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Gharieni´s spa table MLX won the Spa & Wellness Mexico Product Award for Best Spa Furniture in 2016. Sammy Gharieni received the 2016 ESPA Innovation Award of the European Spa Association in the category “Innovative Spa-Concept." In the category “Beauty & Body Care Treatments” the WellMassage4D won the WELLNESS & SPA INNOVATION AWARD 2016 of the Deutscher Wellness Verband/Deutsche Wellness GmbH (German Wellness Association/German Wellness GmbH) at the leading international trade fair Beauty in Düsseldorf.

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a respected designation

Éminence Organic Skin Care is proud to announce that it is the first professional skin care company in the world to become a Certified B Corporation®, a respected designation awarded to companies meeting rigorous standards of social and environmental performance, accountability and transparency. Certified B Corps improve the quality of life in communities, address environmental problems and inspire others.

Sesderma recently held a symposium at the Holy Cross HealthPlex in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., addressed to dermatologists and esthetic professionals. Live demonstrations consisted of the past, present and future of microneedling, the micro-puncture system Nanopore Stylus 1, and the Meso Cit range, epidermal growth factors to stimulate collagen synthesis and elastin. The use of retinol in esthetic procedures like microneedling was also highlighted.

a mission beyond sales In an effort to bring healing to society, 100 percent of Shankara’s net profits fund global non-profit humanitarian projects, implemented by the International Association for Human Values (IAHV). The IAHV offers programs globally to reduce stress and develop leaders. The IAHV programs have brought peace to some of the world’s most troubled populations through the introduction of simple, natural stress-relief techniques.

800.796.0996 sesdermausa.com

888.626.4363 shankara.com

camera ready

Makeup artist Vanessa Scali used Le Mieux Cosmetics to create Anna Kendrick’s glowing look for the June 29th Los Angeles Premiere of "Mike and Dave Need Wedding Dates." Scali stated, “First, I prepped her skin with TGF-β Booster Serum. This penetrating serum really wakes up the skin and is fantastic on sensitive skin.” Scali continued, “I followed with the Bio Cell Rejuvenating Cream and Eye Wrinkle Corrector. This combination leaves the skin looking juicy and fresh, creating a perfect canvas for foundation.” photo credit: gettyimages.com

888.327.8188 lemieuxcosmetics.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

microneedling symposium

BusinessNews

888.747.6342 eminenceorganics.com/us

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Do you want to earn 4x more revenue?

Nouveau Contour micropigmentation makes it happen!

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The Nouveau Contour Master Academy program is the only one of its kind in the world of permanent make-up. Professionals choose Nouveau Contour.

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Success is in your hands!

Request no-obligation information by calling 877-628-7201 or have a look at www.nouveaucontourusa.com 70

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Peptides, Growth Factors and Stem Cells...

Which products should you use on clients and why?

And what is the latest “miracle” ingredient to reverse the signs of aging? It's time to find out!

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THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide

The pros of peptides, stem cells and growth factors

by Janel Luu

More and more skin care companies are spotlighting peptides, growth factors and stem cells as the rising stars in anti-aging products. These active ingredients are the latest technological advances in skin care, effectively protecting skin from damage, dramatically slowing signs of aging and accelerating the regeneration of skin cells for more youthful-looking skin.

However, skin care professionals should look beyond the marketing message and understand how these ingredients may or may not impact skin regeneration.

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THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide

Do peptides, growth factors and stem cells make for truly effective skin care?

Let's put each in the skin care spotlight!

The Power of Peptides Peptides are mini-proteins, consisting of chains of two or more amino acids arranged like pearls on a necklace.

Peptides formed in a certain pattern make specific proteins that function as messengers, allowing the epidermis and dermis to communicate efficiently to promote collagen synthesis.

However, as skin ages, communication diminishes, resulting in wrinkles, loss of firmness and changes in texture.

Peptides are like anti-aging keys that unlock skin cell surface receptors to open the doors of cellular communication and help skin repair itself.

Peptides: Pros • Less irritation. Peptides are not as irritating as some other anti-aging ingredients.

• Anti-aging results. With appropriate delivery systems, peptides signal skin to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid, which decline with age.

• Variety. The appropriate peptide must be selected for specific results, such as promoting collagen synthesis, targeting environmental damage or diminishing wrinkles. In fact, the synthetic version of the peptide found in snake venom (Syn-ake) works similarly to Botox, temporarily impacting facial muscle contractions to prevent the formation of expression lines and wrinkles.

Peptides are continually being synthesized in labs, so there is no single "best" anti-aging peptide. The most effective way to benefit from peptides is to ensure that they are combined with other anti-aging ingredients, such as ceramides, antioxidants, stem cells and growth factors.

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Groundbreaking Growth Factors Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins that stimulate cellular renewal.

When there is damage, cells produce growth factors that communicate to surrounding cells that repair is needed. In fact, growth factors were first used to treat patients in burn centers.

Cells naturally secrete growth factors as signaling molecules that keep cells healthy and stimulate them to divide. However, the aging process leads to a decrease in growth factors. When growth factors are applied topically, the stratum corneum stimulates a repair message that goes into the dermis via a signaling cascade, stimulating fibroblasts to produce collagen and revitalize damaged or aging skin.

Growth Factors: Pros • Post-Care. Growth factors accelerate skin renewal during and after esthetic procedures that create stress to skin such as micro-needling, dermaplaning, laser, IPL and peels.

• Availability. Growth factors are a "must" for people over 30, who are already experiencing skin aging and environmental damage.

• Source. Growth factors are most bio-active when derived from human sources (adipose tissue, amniotic membrane, baby foreskin) since they work with growth factors normally present in the skin.

Some growth factors used in skin care include Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) to accelerate healing, Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF) to stimulate fibroblast production, Insulin-like Growth Factor (IGF) to promote cell growth, Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF) to stimulate epithelial cell growth, PlateletDerived Growth Factor (PDGF) to regulate cell growth and Transforming Growth Factor-Beta (TGF-β) to stimulate collagen secretion. Growth factors are often cocktailed with peptides, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants and growth factor precursors — stem cells.

THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide

Stem Cell Repair Stem cells function as a type of internal repair system. They work best with growth factors, which signal the stem cells to go to the targeted location and renew collagen, elastin and epithelial cells.

Stem cells can be derived from humans, animals or plants. Human stem cells functioning with growth factors in skin care formulations stimulate epidermal stem cells to help repair wrinkles, improve elasticity and protect skin from environmental exposure.

Stem Cells: Pros

Stem cells not only repair, but also protect existing cells from damage.

• Repair. Stem cells stimulate cellular growth and division, leading to collagen and elastin synthesis, filling out wrinkles and slowing the development of new wrinkles.

• Prevention. Stem cells not only repair, but also protect existing cells from damage.

• Source. Human stem cells may be more effective in activating wound healing and stimulating collagen synthesis, but plant stem cells (apple, grape, edelweiss, Alpine rose) may promote improvement due to antioxidant benefits.

Keeping Up with Skin Care Breakthroughs Growth factors are an absolute "must" for clients over 30, and especially for clients over 40 whose aging skin is vulnerable after treatments such as micro-needling, dermaplaning and peels.

Professional protocols creating stress to the skin should include growth factors, stem cells and peptides to supplement skin's natural repair system. These ingredients should be applied during and after procedures to help prevent hyperpigmentation that can result from skin that heals too slowly.

Over the past few years, the cosmeceutical world has opened up an array of clinical products, and professional estheticians can now greatly increase skin performance. The takeaway?

Constantly keep yourself informed, so you can maximize your success. 

Janel Luu has more than 30 years of experience as an international educator, skin care researcher and developer, international beauty columnist and influential consulting developer for major cosmetic companies. In 1999, she founded Bielle Cosmetics, a research and development company, and in 2004 she launched Le Mieux Cosmetics, an antiaging professional skin care brand. Luu's innate love of formulating and expertise in anti-aging cellular technology has inspired her to teach more than 20,000 professionals and physicians in the skin care industry.

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A powerful punch of stem cells, growth factors and peptides

by Carrie Borzillo

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THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide

Spas have a lot to thank science for these days. As more studies come out that show the benefits of stem cells, growth factors and peptides for skin care, spas are incorporating these topical treasures into treatments that clients are plopping down a pretty penny for.

They might seem like the latest buzzwords, but studies show that these superstar ingredients truly can change the skin at the cellular level.

Stem Cells The DNA CryoStem Skin Therapy (75 minutes, $250) at Heather Nicole Advanced Skin Care in Beverly Hills, Calif., features frozen bovine stem cells to help with lines and wrinkles, acne, scaring, skin laxity, hyper- and hypopigmentation and more. “It’s the ultimate in anti-aging treatments," says owner Heather Nicole Funk.

"Stem cells are the most powerful agent to heal damaged tissue and create new cells for skin regeneration,” says Funk. “This treatment stimulates growth of dermal fibroblasts, which forms new skin cells. The more fibroblasts that are available, the stronger and younger the skin looks and feels.

Scientific tests have shown as much as 71 percent new skin cell growth within 144 hours of treatment."

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THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide Careful application of the cryogenically frozen serum penetrates the skin, promoting the cell growth while stimulating the production of collagen and elastin.

The treatment includes an exfoliating peel, microdermabrasion, extractions, facial massage and mask, and finishes with the cryo-stem serum. It's also an add-on to microcurrent, microchanneling and LED treatments.

"Clients love it because it instantly tightens your skin, firms your face, and gives you a hydrated dewy complexion. It's the perfect treatment before a special event too," Funk says.

Growth Factors The Regenerate Facial Infusion Collagen-Boosting Treatment (75 minutes, $350) at Heather Nicole Advanced Skin Care uses more than 150 different skin growth factors derived from adult stem cells to improve all aspects of skin aging and skin damage, including acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation.

"It uses advanced technology that utilizes exosomes that encapsulate the growth factors and proteins to increase penetration and stability and activate more receptors to enhance results,” says Funk. “It gently restores the repair process and stimulates new cells to build collagen and enhances results for acne and rosacea and increases elastin, heals hyperpigmentation and reverses aging."

The treatment starts with a cleanse, facial massage, soothing gel mask and customized mask based on skin type, and application of active powder blends before the growth factors are layered on.

Among the key growth factors are HGF (hepatocyte growth factor), which enhances wound repair and increases the number of macrophages for scar tissue removal. TGF-B (transforming growth factor beta) increases new blood vessel formation and collagen production. FGF (fibroblast growth factor) increases the number of collagen manufacturing cells along with increasing

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Platelet-derived growth factor creates new fibrolasts, increases the number of macrophages and increases angiogenesis and new cell development. their production levels. PDGF (platelet derived growth factor) creates new fibroblasts, increases the number of macrophages and increases angiogenesis and new cell development.

"No single growth factor is solely determinant in the outcome of skin rejuvenation,” Funk adds. “Growth factors applied to the skin surface penetrate the epidermis and in theory should 'fertilize' your skin."

Peptides Pacific Waters Spa within the Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort & Spa in Huntington Beach, Calif., brings a modern twist to the traditional hot and cold facial by adding unique peptides to their Fire & Ice Facial (50 minutes, $185). The treatment is designed to eliminate photo damage, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and fine lines, and is most popular with women seeking to turn back the clock.

"The active peptides include Oligopeptide-10, which works by killing the bacteria that can contribute to acne breakouts,” says spa director David Cost. “Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 helps to reduce inflammation in order to neutralize the feelings of sensitivity including burning and stinging. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-33 inhibits the factors that contribute to exaggerated inflammatory response in order to reduce the appearance of visible redness. Acetyl Hexapaptide-27 works by regulating hydration in the skin to combat trans-

epidermal water loss that can occur in sensitive and redness-prone skin.

And, acetyl hexapeptide-8 relaxes the muscle contractions that cause fine lines and wrinkles."

The treatment starts with a thorough double cleanse with a lactic acid infused gel cleanser and an eco-friendly exfoliating cleanser, a brightening toner is applied to skin to prepare it for exfoliation. Next comes an AHA-rich pumpkin peel, followed by optional extractions. Cold glass facial globes are massaged into the skin, cooling it down and imparting a refreshing complement to the warmth of the peel. The treatment is finished with a soothing serum and eye cream. Clients shouldn't expose themselves to sun or any kind of heat for two to three hours after the treatment.

"After just one treatment, pores are visibly reduced, skin is instantly firmer, smoother, brighter and youthful,” says Cost. “Skin looks refreshed, even-toned and more alive." 

Carrie Borzillo is an award-winning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@gmail.com.

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THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide

Activating Change in the Skin

by Rhonda Allison Skin is a complicated system. As the body’s largest organ, it has many essential tasks. It is designed to regulate the body’s temperature, maintain hydration, and most importantly protect against toxins, bacteria and infection, and other DNA-damaging elements from entering. Since the skin barrier has such a protective nature, how do we ensure that the rejuvenating, nourishing ingredients we use are actually impacting the skin and not just residing on the surface?

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Deriving the most value and efficacy from ingredients has been a long-time quest in the world of esthetics. Science has discovered innovative technologies to achieve this and now through the use of smart ingredients such as peptides, stem cells and growth factors, we can signal activity in the skin via energy pathways.

With that in mind, how do you get the most out of topicals and make sure they actually produce the desired results? Much is dependent upon skin preparation, the quality of ingredients used, the science behind those ingredients and how they synergize with their partner ingredients so that all perform as designed.

Understanding the barrier First, let’s look at the layers of skin.

Skin comprises three primary regions: the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. Within the epidermis, there are multiple strata (or layers) with the

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stratum corneum serving as the outermost layer. It comprises lipids and corneocytes that form a protective barrier to guard the underlying tissue.

While it serves the important function of inhibiting foreign materials from entering, this also means that rejuvenating ingredients, particularly those with a higher molecular weight, will not be let through either. The challenge is that in order to effectively impact the skin, we must be able to affect and stimulate the deeper layers of the epidermis as well as the dermal layer.

These tissues comprise important structural cells like fibroblasts, along with keratinocytes, melanocytes and inflammatory cells. This is where much of the skin’s activity occurs.

For example, the basal layer of the epidermis is responsible for cellular renewal and healthy regulation of melanocytes, and the dermis regulates collagen and elastin. Thus, reaching these layers is key.

Breaking past the barrier Attention to the stratum corneum (surface skin level) is where it all begins to accomplish change and allow elegant formulations to begin to perform at their optimum level.

Enzymes, low-strength acids (like salicylic and L-lactic acids) and physical exfoliating agents support the stratum corneum in removing superficial dead cells, allowing for new keratinocytes to percolate up.

Preparing the skin with a good subsurface cleanse and exfoliation also paves the way for other ingredients and treatments to follow.

When the goal is correction and overall rejuvenation, the target is to affect the inner layers of the epidermis and dermis. One important method to achieve this is through stimulation at the superficial level. Thus, ingredients must be delivered in controlled strengths and blended appropriately to break down the upper barrier. Using

THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide science, we now have methods to aid in the absorption and penetration of beneficial substances, as well as enhance the performance of natural ingredients through “delivery systems.”

For instance, through the science of chirality, isomers within an ingredient may be identified and separated so that only the isomer that produces results is used. It’s also worth noting that the skin is chiral, and therefore it responds best to chirally correct ingredients and formulation.

While caution must always be taken when blending ingredients, there are several pro-youth ingredients like stem cells, peptides, and epidermal growth factors that may be boosted by coupling them with other active ingredients.

Stem cells Organic stem cells are powerful in skin rejuvenation and health. These plant cell cultures, which are extracted from the plant’s meristematic (stem) cells, are essential to plant growth and the rebuilding of damaged tissues.

In contrast to human stem cells, plant stems cells are totipotent, which means every cell has the ability to regenerate, whether it’s a leaf, flower, stem or the entire plant. When a plant suffers a wound, the surrounding cells revert to stem cells to form callus cells.

Following the healing phase, cells return to their original state and begin building new tissue.

Through science, we’ve discovered that the protective and healing ability of stem cells from apples and Buddleja Davidii can be replicated in human cells.

This process is particularly beneficial to the skin as cells age and cellular proliferation slows.

On their own, organic stem cells, which are chiral, support the rebuilding of damaged tissues, preserve lipids, increase antioxidant activity and inhibit the production of collagenases, the enzymes responsible for breaking down peptide bonds in

collagen. When combined with retinal, however, the duo works in tandem to first break the skin down (penetrating the barrier), then rebuild it to a more youthful state. Similarly, with L-lactic acid it creates a powerful skin rejuvenation formula that increases desquamation and hydration, and refines fine lines. In these scenarios, the retinal and L-lactic acid work in tandem with the stem cells to affect the greatest benefit.

Peptides Peptides are chains of amino acids, which are chiral as they are available with (D) and (L) forms. Active in very small doses, peptides perform by stimulating fibroblasts, the building blocks of collagen, and signal the skin to produce more protein. Through this process they firm, tone and diminish fine lines overall, promoting healthier, more youthful skin.

They have the same chemical structure as proteins, but are shorter in length. Peptides come in various sizes, including: ogliopeptides (2-10 amino acids) and polypeptides (10-100

amino acids). The amino acid sequence and the tridimensional arrangement of the chain determine the function of each peptide.

There are many strands of peptides, each classified by the number of amino acids within its sequence, and each of which performs a different function within different layers. A few notable peptides include: • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 – a small peptide that mimics the human body’s ability to produce collagen via growth factor tissue. It also stimulates collagen synthesis, actively removes wrinkles, and has skin-firming and moisturizing properties.

• Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 – a mega anti-wrinkle active that works through various pathways to reverse and prevent the signs of aging. Rebuilds extra-cellular matrix by improving collagen biosynthesis by inhibiting destructive matrix metalloproteinases (MMP).

• Palmitoyl Oligopeptide – a tripeptide that enhances the production of natural skin molecules like collagen and glycosaminoglycans, thickens and restores flexibility to extra-dermal matrix.

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THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide

• Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 – a nextgeneration peptide that stimulates six constituents of the skin to smooth wrinkles from the inside and rebuild the skin.

To target the deeper layers of the epidermis and dermis for specific outcomes, create multi-forces with combined ingredients such as peptides, retinol, L-ascorbic acid and stem cells.

This combination will aid in absorption as well as give reprieve from free-radical damage, while boosting collagen production, strengthening skin and supporting the skin’s immune system.

Growth Factors Epidermal growth factor (EGF), an oligopeptide and vital protein found in the fibroblast cells of the dermal layer, stimulates collagen production, cell renewal, circulation and new blood vessel formation.

A powerful cell regenerator, it works to stimulate collagen-producing cells, accelerate the growth of epidermal cells, assist in wound healing and reduce wrinkles. It supports cell renewal

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by assisting in the synthesis of proteins and increasing mitosis and the number of fibroblasts. As EGF is applied to the skin, tissue regeneration begins, but it must reach beyond the barrier in order to realize its true potential.

EGF is also an amino acid, and thus chiral, and when used with retinal, the combination speeds the healing of skin and delivers a potent dose of antioxidants. EGF is one ingredient that may be used with numerous other pro-youth ingredients like enzymes and acids to penetrate the barrier and continue the regeneration process, while also supporting healing and rebuilding.

With the right combination of quality, science-backed ingredients and proper preparation, ingredients are able to reach the layers necessary to rebuild healthy, vibrant skin. Activating these ingredients in the skin is only one piece of the puzzle though. Clients also must make sure they are making healthy choices such as getting adequate amounts of sleep and water, taking measures to reduce or manage stress, limiting sun exposure and wearing an SPF daily, exercising and eating a healthy, antioxidant-rich diet. 

Create multi-forces with combined ingredients such as peptides, retinol, L-ascorbic acid and stem cells.

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of esthetic experience. Visit RhondaAllison.com and RAmethod.com for more information.

THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE Guide

The surprising effects of lipids in skin care

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hen you think of cholesterol, skin care and anything beauty related are likely the furthest images from your mind. Instead, you probably envision a plate of bacon, fries and other greasy foods associated with clogged arteries. However studies are now uncovering the valuable topical properties of cholesterol, making it one of the latest discoveries in skin care!

What are lipids?

A healthy, normally functioning skin barrier is dependent upon the ratio of physiological lipids, which are intercellular natural compounds produced in the epidermis. While there are many types of lipids in skin, ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are the dominant forms. These lipid components have been found in numerous scientific studies to play a crucial role in skin health.

Lipids are organized into lamellar layers consisting of the following components: ceramides (50 percent), cholesterol (30 percent) and long chain fatty acids (20 percent). While ceramides are the most predominant, all components are critical for maintaining a healthy skin barrier and preventing trans-epidermal water loss.

Skin aging is characterized by a decline in lipid production (especially cholesterol) and profound functional changes including age-related deterioration of the skin barrier, resulting in skin dehydration and reduced capacities for

protection and repair against atmospheric insults (i.e. – UVA, particulate matter, carbon monoxide). The clinical implications of this lipid depletion include uneven texture, uncomfortable tightness, dullness and loss of facial fullness.

Importance of cholesterol Cholesterol is found in all cells of the body and is essential to produce cell membranes, hormones and vitamin D. The cholesterol found in skin is distinct from the cholesterol found in blood. It stabilizes the structure of the stratum corneum, providing skin with its supple characteristics, structural integrity and skin elasticity.

Lipidomics is an emerging field of science that studies lipids and their role in skin health, including atopic and agerelated skin concerns. Lipidomic studies have suggested that a cholesteroldominant lipid treatment containing a 1:2:1 ratio, composed of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, is optimal in treating the lipid depletion specifically in aging skin. ď Ž

Keep an eye on the evolving role of cholesterol in beautiful skin, as this lipid may be one of the next big topical trends!

R. Scott Peterson, Ph.D., serves as Head of Medical Affairs at SkinCeuticals, supporting the development of regional scientific services and growth of physician partnerships. Dr. Peterson has been the recipient of academic research awards from the NIH and the National Multiple Sclerosis Society. He has authored peer-reviewed publications and been an invited speaker at numerous national and international scientific congresses. Dr. Peterson brings more than 20 years of diverse research experience, ranging from preclinical early compound discovery to post-marketing clinical study design and execution.

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The Benefits and Proteins for Healthy Skin by craig kraffert, m.d.

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ilk has historically been synonymous with luxury and beauty. The exquisite fabric, renowned for its sensual feel, has enrobed queens such as Cleopatra and Himiko of third century Japan.

Silk trading along the Silk Route has helped bring world cultures together for thousands of years. Even today, natural silk remains the undisputed “queen of textiles." While silk remains a treasured textile in clothing and beyond, new attention is being focused on the utility of silk extracts in skin care product formulation. Silk

extracts in skin care are now linked to better skin esthetics and health.

Silk extract, prepared from the cocoon of the silk caterpillar (Bombyx mori), consists primarily of two proteins, fibroin and sericin.

In textiles, fibroin is spun into silk thread and sericin is discarded. In skin care, both silk proteins provide benefits, and sericin is currently the most widely utilized. Silk extraction and preparation techniques are paramount in determining net benefits to the skin care consumer from silk proteins.

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o&w silk extract

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o&w silk extract

Dr. Craig Kraffert, board certified dermatologist and president of Amarte Skin Care, is trained as a biochemist and cell biologist.

Dr. Kraffert is also the founder of DermStore. com and ReddingDerm, a five-clinic dermatology practice in Northern California and Oregon that specializes in both esthetic and clinical dermatology. Today, DermStore is owned by the iconic American company, Target Co., ensuring a lasting legacy for Dr. Kraffert's skin care passion and entrepreneurial acumen.

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Where nature meets science

Your All in One Solution for Professional Equipment and Skin Care www.skinforlife.com 866-312-7546

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kao -norimpa

A BODY ENERGY BOOST FROM A BALANCED

YIN AND YANG

Are you looking for a unique new treatment to offer your clients a fresh new force of energy? Consider a technique you probably have not heard of until now: KAO NO RIMPA. The Japanese lymphatic drainage technique is based on the philosophy that in order to live a long, healthy and happy life, the Yin and Yang must be balanced; this balance is deemed essential in order for the body to work correctly. This Japanese form of lymphatic drainage differs from a typical lymphatic drainage massage technique because energy and organs are balanced at the same time.

YIN energy is the origin of life, and makes the growth of Yang possible.

When Yin energy is weak or suddenly increases, the result is manifested in the YANG (physical) body. If the imbalance persists, physical damage or even failure to function occurs in the body. Kao No Rimpa lymphatic drainage helps to increase the Qi (the circulating life force whose existence and properties are the basis of much Chinese philosophy and medicine) and blood circulation through different manipulations, each of which triggers internal organs and drains any illnesses affecting that particular organ.

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o&w kao no rimpa

Kao no Rimpa begins with a relaxation technique that involves the manipulation of acupressure digital lymphatic points. It releases any stress related blockages and helps sustain the production of blood cells, connecting organs together to prepare them for Kao No Rimpa lymphatic drainage.

stage 1: tiantu.

This cavity is located at the base of the throat, at the junction of the neck and chest. The function of this cavity is to facilitate and regulate the movement of lung Qi in order to cool the throat and clear the voice. Start from the side and follow the throat, using the fingers of both hands. Use a slow, circular motion on the neck, followed by the chest.

stage 2: shufu is located above the nipples. It belongs to the kidney, which has a primary role in water metabolism and controlling the body’s liquids. When the Shufu cavity is agitated,

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the water in the body can lead upward to the lungs. This cavity is related to problems such as bronchitis, asthma, chest pain, vomiting and abdominal distention. Using the middle finger, rub from the chest and out to the arms in a circular motion.

stage 3: zhongfu is located in the upper chest near the shoulder joint. This cavity is connected to the throat area, lungs and stomach. It is the junction between the throat and upper chest with the arms. Zhongfu is connected by the lymph nodes located between the underarm and shoulder.

It is related to coughing and wheezing, expelling blood and pus, throat blockages, nasal congestion, excessive sweating, tumors and nodular growths on the neck. Pump the lymph five times, then press down slightly and release.

stage 4: shanzhong is located between the nipples. The Qi that has

accumulated in the center of the chest can be spread outward. This can significantly regulate the fire Qi, which has accumulated in the solar plexus (the cavity located in the junction between the lungs and the stomach, beneath the diaphragm). This releases pressure and tension in the front of the body. Treat this symptom and help regulate it by gently pressing and rubbing the cavity in a circle several times. Move Qi to the sides and away from the solar plexus.

Push downward to the abdominal area with your palms.

stage 5: jiuwei

is called the “solar plexus”, as described above. An excessive accumulation of Qi in this area leads to feelings of discomfort, along with tension or heartburn in the chest. Also, an excess of Yang leads to a tired feeling. This cavity is related to illnesses such as angina pectoris, seizures, hiccups, mental illness and asthma. Gently rub the cavity in a clock-

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o&w kao no rimpa wise circular motion with the base of the right thumb, then perform the same movements with the left hand.

stage 6: yingchuang

is located under the nipples, close to the chest. This cavity is related to issues such as bronchitis, mastitis, neuralgia, intestinal noises and diarrhea. Move the index, middle and ring fingers in circles, pushing and pressing down toward the solar plexus.

stage 7: riyue is located below the ribs in front of the liver and spleen.

When there is an abnormal Qi condition in these organs, these two cavities may be tense, which in turn causes tension in the stomach and abdomen. Gently press the cavities in a circular motion, then move the motion to the center and downward.

stage 8: shuxi is located in the crease between the thigh and abdomen. These two cavities are the junction

of the Qi circulation from the body to the front of the legs. Shuxi is related to tuberculosis of the inguinal lymph glands, and weakness of leg adductors. Gently press the edge of thumbs on this area in a circular motion while raising the thigh to relax it.

stage 9: jimai runs from the big toe up through the inside of the thighs to the liver. This area is related to leg pain, problematic symptoms of the genitals, prolapsed uterus and hernia pain. First, place your hands on the area and slowly brush down from the thigh in a circular motion, pressing and then releasing.

stage 10: Move in a circular movement down to the thigh, releasing toxins that have accumulated in the lymphatic system related to the sciatic nerve.

stage 11:

Continue moving down behind the knee, an area related to vari-

cose veins and the circulatory system.

stage 12:

At the ankle, make a tapping movement; this helps stimulate internal organs such as ovaries, pelvic area, sigmoid colon and testes.

stage 13:

Continue this movement for the top of the toes, which helps stimulate the small intestines, bladder and kidneys.

Finish the experience with a relaxing massage technique, and send your clients off from this memorable session with an extraordinary new Qi energy in their system.  Anabel de la Vega is a certified, licensed specialist in massage therapy, reflexology, herbology and crystal healing with more than 18 years of experience in the beauty industry. She conducts educational seminars in Florida, Venezuela and Colombia and is highly respected in her field.

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professionals register now www.dermaware.com/ professional

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ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

re-maca-ble

Arbor Certified Organic Skincare's Maca Cream Cleanser delivers the remarkable benefits of the Peruvian Maca root, rich in antioxidants and valued for its ability to balance the skin. This USDA certified organic cleanser gently binds with impurities and makeup residue, leaving the skin looking brighter and more radiant with every use. Suitable for all skin types, ideal for sensitive and acne prone skin.

800.676.1424 lamarbor.com

the ultimate energizer

The LightStim LED Bed is composed of 18,240 LEDs designed to rejuvenate, repair and energize every cell in the body, in a spacious, state-of-the-art structure. As the first and only LED bed to gain over-the-counter FDA clearance, it promotes an impressive list of clinically proven benefits, and is designed and manufactured in the USA. Users include doctors, physical therapists, elite athletes and professional spas.

SALT FOR THE SKIN Salt extracted in the Bochnia and Wieliczka Salt Mines in Poland saturated with 35 minerals including bromine and iodine, is the pillar of Puresol’s product line, which includes Midnight Honey Shower Gel, Olive Bliss and Midnight Honey Body Wash and Olive Bliss Hand Lotion. Unique fragrances and carefully refined product consistency harmonize the aesthetics of this line.

830.537.5010 puresolspa.com

the finest fresh breath

Cruelty-free and vegan, Moondani Naturals Breath Mist is made with natural breath fresheners — no additives, preservatives, alcohol or sweeteners included. Weighing 5 ml, it is specially formulated with a blend of healthy, natural breath fresheners like cardamom, fennel and ginger that cure bad breath, not mask it.

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888.290.6238 szepelet.com

An Esthetician’s magical wand

Diamond Way Ayurveda has introduced Kansa Wands to the spa and beauty industry. Witness an amazing glow and countenance of beauty and peace arise on your client’s face and body.

Estheticians and massage professionals see dramatic results. Perfect for retail and easy to use and maintain for years in your practice.

on-the-go minis

FarmHouse Fresh® launches three travelfriendly sets featuring minis of its bestselling creams, body scrubs, facial masks and body oils for busy women on the go. The three sets include Sweeping Softness, Skin Saviors and Quick Recovery. A great introduction to FarmHouse Fresh products without having to purchase full sizes, and also great gifts for family, friends and colleagues!

805.904.6408 diamondwayayurveda.com kansawands.com

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radiant protection

Carefree Natural Chemical Free 100% Natural Sunscreen offers both SPF 50 tinted and SPF 30 untinted products. Especially beneficial in dry climates, winter and when highly exposed to the sun, these all-natural 100 percent chemical free sunscreens are made with multiple essential oils to brighten and moisturize skin.

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ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Ilike Organic Skin Care’s refreshing mint exfoliating wash is a gentle exfoliating cleanser made with Hungarian grown ingredients that gently cleanse the skin while removing dirt, surface oil and makeup. Filled to the brim with certified organic botanicals, this twice a day facial wash soothes and exfoliates skin for a healthy, fresh glow.

Organic & Wellness News

minty exfoliation

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Business Advice for Beauty Professionals Reveal And Enhance Natural Beauty With Keri Martino-Pickett, salon + spa manager and

Kim Aiello, lead esthetician of Makeover Salon + Spa in South Easton, Mass.

SERVICE & RETAIL What is the best part about working in the esthetics industry?

Kim Aiello, lead esthetician of Makeover Salon + Spa

Esthetics is all about skin. We believe makeup is the perfect complement to that. Every day we are learning more about how to bring the natural beauty out in each of our clients. We have wonderful and exciting jobs that give us new opportunities to make our clients feel beautiful every single day.

When did you decide to implement makeup services into your spa menu?

We have offered makeup services for

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25 years and we keep them strictly as part of our esthetics department. We generated a great team of makeup professionals throughout the years, which has allowed us to easily provide the service.

Which of your makeup services is the most requested?

It really depends on the time of year.

If there is a holiday party or wedding, we can do anywhere between eight and 12 makeup applications per day.

People come in and ask us how to use makeup quite often and we offer air-

brush makeup services that are very popular as well. People don’t necessarily know what they want from their makeup service until they come in. They leave it up to us to make them look their absolute best and each client requires a different one of our services.

What kind of makeup treatments do you offer?

We offer a number of makeup services including traditional makeup application, airbrush makeup application and eyelash application.

MAKEUP AREA Please describe your makeup area compared to the rest of your spa.

We have five treatment rooms. One is for massage and spray tan and the others are for our esthetics treatments.

We have a tranquility lounge that is located near the front of the facility and is used as a private waiting room for clients waiting for our makeup and spa treatments. Our two makeup stations are located in our cutting room at the entrance of the spa.

What prompted you to choose the design of your makeup area?

We want to be able to draw attention to the fact that we do both makeup and esthetics here, which is why we highlight our makeup area near the front of our facility. The cutting room, where are two makeup stations are located, is the first room you come into when you walk in. We have 23 cutting stations on our service floor, but we also have a small nail salon and massage area located in our facility. For those clients who may be shy about being seen without makeup, we have the tranquility room where they can wait.

TEAM MEMBERS How do you select your employees and makeup artists?

We have a total of 63 employees. This includes our hourly staff, management, customer service and business sup-

port. About 50-52 of those employees are service providing in our spa. Our esthetics department consists of four specialists. All four of our estheticians are also very well celebrated and recognized makeup artists in our area.

What specific qualities do you look for in your makeup artists?

We look for employees who can offer us more than just makeup artistry. We expect our makeup artists to be experienced in esthetics as well so they very much understand the needs of the skin.

We 100 percent encourage our staff to continue their education, whether in the makeup industry or learning a new type of facial. We keep our employees updated on any classes that may be available to assure they are up to date with the latest technologies and trends. This promises us, as well as our clients, that the employees here understand exactly what they are selling and performing.

MARKETING How do you promote your makeup services?

Having our makeup services located at the entrance of the spa gives our clients coming in for other treatments the opportunity to see the makeup services we provide right when they walk in. Also, a lot of the time our makeup clients will go to an event and look completely stunning and get asked where they got their makeup done, which is a great way for us to acquire new clients on a normal basis.

Are your estheticians trained to promote different services after each treatment?

Our front desk staff is trained to always ask clients if they would like to add makeup services to their next appointment for a special event.

How do you use social media and email platforms for promotion?

We post daily on Facebook and twice a day on Instagram. If I see someone

leaving looking fabulous I am sure to always ask their permission to be on our social media channels. We also do before and after photos, but we believe "after" photos themselves make a great impact and are a great way to promote our work on social media.

INSIDER TIPS How do you perform consultations?

We do complimentary consultations for 15 minutes. We always recommend, especially if it’s a first-timer in our salon, that they make a trial appointment before their special event. This allows the client to see exactly what they will be getting done and to make any changes.

The trial service takes just as long as the regular makeup service and just as much product is being used. That being said, we charge $60 per makeup session regardless of whether it’s a trial or the day of. If the client chooses to have lashes applied it is an additional $15.

What makes your business UNIQUE? Our energy in this location is fantastic.

We bring the city into the suburbs. We have all the technical know-how, the experience and the knowledge. We are continuously educating our staff and we are always on trend with new advances in the industry. Between our technical background and how we promote our company through social media and through our website, we believe we have the qualities that really help us stand out.

What advice would you pass along to other spa owners or those just starting to offer these specific services in their spa?

Don’t fear the unknown. Figure out how to not only learn new things, but also embrace them. This industry offers room for constant growth and change and if you stick with only one technique and one niche, you will lose out on so many opportunities.

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that freckle faced girl FLAUNTING THE NEWEST BEAUTY CRAZE by shawn towne

E

arlier this year, I was working on the Island of Crete with women who had golden, Mediterranean skin. A customer sat in my chair and I was immediately drawn to the perfectly placed freckles on her cheeks and nose. I complimented her and immediately reached for my most sheer coverage foundation. Before I could apply, she shocked me by requesting I cover her freckles, even going so far as to refer to them as

“ugly”! The feature I recognized as lovely was a flaw in her eyes.

At the same time, I have had other clients cite their freckles as a favorite feature, one that adds individuality to their look. Others ask that the illusion of freckles be amplified in makeup application, and so I never know what to expect. My default question with freckled clients should be, “Do you want to cover your freckles or let them show?”

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image that freckle faced girl Historically, women have had a love hate relationship with freck-

can be created using any soft brown eye pencil or nude toned lip

les. In the early 1900s, an impossibly flawless complexion was

pencil. These are the tools most commonly used today, as they

en vogue, with porcelain skin and perfectly placed red blush

are available in varied shades and are likely already living in your

dominating red carpets and society events. In the 1950s and

kit or on your spa shelf. If you’re planning on adding freckles to

60s, a free spirited, fresh sun-kissed complexion reigned, and

a client, there should be some method to your madness. Here

freckles shined through. By the 1970s and 80s, freckles went back

are a few tips to adding freckles to your clients’ looks, while

into hiding as high coverage foundation became stylish again.

keeping it convincingly au naturale.

More recently, the revival of sheer, luminous foundations and “no makeup” looks have indirectly made visible freckles

Product: Because freckles most naturally appear around the

popular again. While the look varies, the consistent truth is that

nose and the apples of the cheeks (where the sun hits skin most

freckles, as subtle of a feature as they may be, have a surpris-

frequently), you will likely be creating your look on this sensi-

ingly powerful ability to influence the mood of a look (often

tive, front and center area of the face. It is important to use a

seen today as more playful, natural, youthful and interesting).

product that is non-comedogenic to help prevent irritation and

In the diverse beauty landscape, there is room for the full spectrum of skin, from blank canvas to fully freckled. Some cosmetics companies have experimented with specific products to mimic the appearance of freckles. However the same effect

slippage. Petroleum based products can clog pores and turn faux freckles into real pimples.

Placement and size: Freckles are not symmetrical or evenly spaced out on the face. Vary the size to make some large and some small. Be careful not to place them too perfectly, or they will be an obvious addition.

Color: Choose a color that is not too much darker than the skin and vary the depth or intensity of the individual spots. Warm tones that are slightly darker versions of the original skin tone work well.

Combine: You’ll notice that freckles naturally occur in the cheeks and nose where the sun hits the face. The color of the skin is often deeper or warmer in these areas. So use bronzer and/or blush in

New Product

combination with freckles to achieve a more authentic appearance.

Order: Freckles are a finishing touch. When applying freckles, remember that they come after foundation, bronzer and blush. If

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Royal Silhouette Eye Therapy Serum

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you apply a shimmer or glow product on top for luminosity, do so with a very light hand, and avoid directly swiping on the freckles.

Avant garde technique: The addition of freckles is a niche technique in itself. Looking even further ahead, it’s possible we’ll see an uptick in the popularity of rainbow freckles as a fun technique for a party or occasional event. Mermaid hair and unconventional lip color have quickly gone mainstream amongst today’s millennial generation. Rainbow freckles (using varied colored pencils instead of natural tones) are a way to play with color and whimsy, with much less of a commitment. Keep this option in mind as a creative option for colorful clients …

Who knows, you may create the next Instagram sensation!  Shawn Towne is a Global Educator for jane iredale with more than 28 years of makeup artistry experience. He works to educate and inspire professionals across the globe while collaborating on product launches and creative projects for the brand. Towne’s portfolio includes editorial work in fashion and beauty publications around the world and runway artistry for New York Fashion Week shows by Badgley Mischka, Tracy Reese and Oscar De La Renta. His commentary has been featured in Allure, Marie Claire and many spa and makeup trade magazines.

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Microblading REGULATIONS, LAWS AND PROTOCOLS

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by Debra M. Delaney

W

ith all of the social media attention through Facebook and Instagram in particular, microbladed brows are today’s “must have” cosmetic enhancement. Tattooed eyebrows have been around for years, but they’ve never looked so natural until now, right? Not really. Skilled permanent makeup/micropigmentation practitioners have been producing beautiful, natural looking brows for years. Using a feathering or hair stroke technique with a digital pen or a manual hand tool is very similar to the microblading tools marketed today.

The point of difference that sets microblading apart is the technique, in which the hand tool is used to implant the pigment. Instead of softly tapping pigment into the skin, it is used like a blade, and scratches the surface several times, creating a shallow thin line of pigment to simulate a fine brow hair.

The key to a successful application is knowing that “sweet spot” at the upper dermis where the pigment must be placed for color retention.

No matter what you have heard or read on social media, microblading

is tattooing, an advanced technique of implanting pigment into the skin.

Anything that is considered advanced takes practice and time to perfect.

Knowledge is power when making decisions that affect your future! Do your due diligence as a professional and learn the facts.

TRAINING PROGRAMS A basic or primary training program for micropigmentation or permanent makeup should be at least 100 hours for curriculum and application (procedures). The curriculum should cover the following topics: sanitation and disinfection, anatomy, color theory, pigments, psychological considerations of the client, facial morphology, brow shaping and design, equipment, machines and hand tools, needle selection and anesthetics. It should also include practice work and an opportunity to observe procedures before performing them under the instructor’s supervision. Even if microblading is the only permanent tattooing procedure you plan to practice, this information and training is extremely important.

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image microblading

QUALIFYING INSTRUCTORS

BECOME A

PERMANENT MAKEUP

PROFESSIONAL Join the countless successful Beau graduates in an exciting, rewarding, lucrative career!

TRAIN at our WORLD RENOWNED PERMANENT MAKEUP INSTITUTE SPCP & AAM Approved

LEARN • 3-D

Brows • Eyeliner/ Lash Enhancement • Gloss & Go Lips

ADVANCED CLASSES

Areola & Scar Camouflage • Microblading • Customized Classes Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #167 on reader service card

• 3-D

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Beau is also home of

Face Inks Pigments Fastest growing pigment line in the U.S.

A good instructor will require you to have your state approved Bloodborne Pathogen (BBP) certificate before you take the class. Look for instructors who are certified by either the American Academy of Micropigmentation (AAM) or the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP). These professionals are required to have years of experience and pass a board or industry approved exam to obtain their instructor certification.

Always ask if you (the student) will be covered under the instructor’s liability coverage during the training. If something should happen to a model during training, YOU could be held liable and sued for damages. It’s a red flag if a trainer does not allow you to practice your application on a live model while they’re overseeing your abilities as a student. The best way to learn the correct technique is with the guidance of an instructor, who has the experience.

STATE REGULATIONS Every state has its own regulations, laws and guidelines to practice tattooing or permanent makeup. Education and training requirements vary, from the number of clocked hours for each topic to the specific topics that must be included in the curriculum. In addition, some states require a certain number of pigment applications or procedures before obtaining licensure or permits to practice. Do NOT rely on an out of state instructor for information on your own state’s requirements.

GET INSURED Professional insurance companies consider microblading to be tattooing. You must present a Certificate of Completion or Accomplishment for the training to apply for coverage. A Certificate of Attendance is not the same and is not accepted. With all this attention, the insurance agencies

are now more closely monitoring who the certifying instructors are and making sure they are credible. Contact different agencies to find out what they require to provide you coverage for this service.

SCHEDULING SERVICES Once trained, a new practitioner can expect to spend between two and three hours microblading brows on a client.

The more procedures you do, the more proficient you become and the less time is needed to complete the application.

Depending on the individual client’s needs, an experienced practitioner schedules between one and two hours for a set of microbladed brows. The client needs to come back for a touch-up four to eight weeks after this initial application. There is less time needed on the second visit because it entails simply implanting more color into the previously applied hair strokes.

If the pigment is implanted into the upper level of the dermis, it should last about 12 to 18 months with a color boost needed around the 12-month mark. Factors such as the client’s skin type, medications, sun exposure and skin care products influence the color retention. If, however, the pigment is only “scratched” in the surface of the skin (as many have been taught to do), it will pretty much disappear during the healing phase of the skin during normal regeneration of cells at the epidermal level.

SET THE RIGHT PRICE The price you can set depends on your skill level. If your application is worthy of an experienced practitioner, a fair rate can be anywhere from $400 to $1,300, depending on your geographic area. This price includes both visits.

However if you’re still practicing on models, charge a base rate of $150 to $200 for both visits. 

Debra M. Delaney is a Fellow of the American Academy of Micropigmentation, certified micropigmentation instructor, licensed medical laser technician and dually licensed esthetician

856-727-1411

beauinstitute.com Located in Mount Laurel, New Jersey

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in Florida and North Carolina. She graduated Magna Cum Laude from the Alpha Institute in Port St. Lucie, Fla., where she mastered studies in Advanced Aesthetics and Anti-Aging. As a former Chief Operating Officer of Nouveau Contour USA, Delaney worked with the Florida Board of Education to establish a curriculum for the Permanent Cosmetics Academy in Orlando, Fla.

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effortless perfection

Sunset Skin Foundation from Veil Cosmetics is an airy, whipped foundation that reveals flawless skin! Specially engineered to give an effortless blend and soft focus finish to help skin appear smoother and reduce the appearance of pores and fine lines, this hydrated product benefits from water lily and cinnamon bark, giving skin a natural looking glow!

veilcosmetics.com

"look at me" lips More than just a lip service! This deep conditioning Lip Salvation with aloe and citrus from Bella Schneider Beauty is the most amazing way to treat lips to the perfect pigmentation!

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

650.321.3915 bellaschneiderbeauty.com

sprayed perfection Introducing a new collection of 250 ml black and white PET lotion and spray bottles by Qosmedix!

The Ergonomic Trigger Spray Bottles are perfect for dispensing a controlled amount of liquid while the Bottles with Lotion Pump are perfect for dispensing lotions, creams or liquid formulations.

All four bottles have a unique locking mechanism to help keep products from spilling during travel.

631.242.3270 qosmedix.com

bat THOSE lashes!

NovaLashÂŽ, the luxurious lash leader, introduces Lash+Doctor, a revolutionary treatment that fortifies lashes and brows to appear longer and more luscious! Lash+Doctor strengthens with a powerful revitalizing complex to become resistant to loss and breakage. The pH balanced formula is ophthalmologist tested and safe for contact wearers.

866.430.1261 novalash.com

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prime perfection

Prime skin for perfection with this I PRIME Flawless Blur Gel by Image Skincare.

Reduce the appearance of deep wrinkles and lines and leave skin flawless for application of makeup or daily moisturizer. A powerful blend of potent antioxidants, plant-derived stem cell extracts and botanicals fight free radical damage that causes skin aging, while marine filling spheres immediately plump and smooth the skin’s surface.

800.796.7546 imageskincare.com

WIPE AWAY WINTER

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

Winter weather creates cracked, rough and dry lips. Nurse Jamie’s NuLipsRX kit guarantees soft and plump lips for the most kissable results, wiping away the driest, coldest days of winter.

This system softens lips for the perfect antimicrobial, anti-bacterial pout. As dead skin cells are removed, a new luscious lip layer is revealed!

endless eye creations

Jane Iredale’s Mystikol Makeup is here! The staying power of a liquid liner with the ease and versatility of a powder. This cream eyeliner comes packed with a built-in brush in four superpigmented, on-trend shades for endless eye creations. Smudge and swipe to your heart’s desire for a customized look!

800.817.5665 janeiredale.com

kissable valentine’s day lips

Ecco Bella’s FlowerColor Good For You Gloss is a naturally-preserved and dye-free lip gloss. The unique applicator tube features a built-in mirror so you can always give your clients a fabulous lip with a pure, shiny rich texture that’s never greasy or heavy.

877.696.2220 eccobella.com

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310.587.3502 nursejamie.com

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Reader Service No.

Page Number

67............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com...................................................... 243 109............. Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 108............. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 64............... Bio Jouvance.......................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 11............... Celluma................................................................... biophotas.com................................................................ 295 97............... Dermaware.............................................................. dermaware.com.............................................................. 256 66............... Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 19............... Environ.................................................................... environskincare.com........................................................ 116 115............. Equipro USA........................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 96............... Eve Taylor................................................................ evetaylornorthamerica.com............................................. 228 22............... Fake Bake............................................................... fakebake.com................................................................. 210 116............. Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 46,47.......... Grandelash MD....................................................... grandelashmd.com........................................................ 286 28............... Gr8/Skn................................................................... gr8skn.com.................................................................... 144 104............. Hale Cosmeceuticals.............................................. halecosmeceuticals.com................................................. 133 4,5.............. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgeforlife.com............................................................... 201 31............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 34,35.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas.................. dallas.skincareshows.com 86,87.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia.......... philadelphia.skincareshows.com 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics........... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 95............... Le Mieux.................................................................. lemieuxcosmetics.com.................................................... 294 65............... Lipo-Light................................................................ sculptlightusa.com.......................................................... 293 55............... Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com.................................................................... 263 30............... M'lis......................................................................... mlis.com......................................................................... 217 70............... Nouveau Contour.................................................... nouveaucontourusa.com............................................... 186 23............... Nufree finipil............................................................ nufree.com...................................................................... 348 17............... Rapidlash................................................................ rapidlash.com................................................................. 224 113............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 105............. Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 79............... Rhonda Allison........................................................ rhondaallison.com........................................................... 190 21............... Sesderma................................................................ sesdermausa.com........................................................... 319 29............... Skinade................................................................... skinade.com.................................................................... 325 111............. Skin Blends............................................................. skinblends.com............................................................... 283 20............... Synergie by Skin Elegance International................. skinelegance.com........................................................... 100 91............... Skin for Life............................................................. skinforlife.com................................................................. 156 58,59.......... Spa + Wellness Summit.......................................... lneonline.com 27............... Vital Assist............................................................... vitalassist.com............................................................... 237 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. 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