LNE & Spa - July 2017

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals July 2017

$7.50

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from the

editor For many of us, the word “vitamin” brings to mind childhood memories of Mom serving Flintstone-shaped c h ew a b l e s u p p l e m e n t s alongside our corn flakes every morning. Many of us still take supplements of some form as adults, as it is nearly impossible to consume all the vitamins our bodies need on a daily basis (even if you’re a health fanatic like me and pack your diet with produce!).

While most people know that vitamin-rich foods and ingestible supplements benefit our health on the INSIDE, those of us in the skin care industry know how important these antioxidant-packed elements are to skin health and beauty on the OUTSIDE, both from the inside out through our diets and via topical application.

Our special Vitamins Guide this month highlights this component of the industry. Learn about the scientific properties of vitamins that make them a nutritional and beauty powerhouse. Get the inside scoop on the latest topical treatments featuring key superfoods! Be inspired to create a delicious new component to your treatments with vitamin-packed juice recipes to serve your clients.

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Finally, find out how some facilities are serving up

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vitamins to their clients using intravenous therapy!

Also this month, learn about the latest new product trend, stone therapies, how to create a wellness program, customizing makeup applications according to clients’ unique face shapes and more. It’s all here in the July edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa!

— Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com july2017

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July volume 32 number 7

cover

Dance with the waves, move with the sea.

Let the rhythm of the water set your soul free.

©Doc. Masters Colors 2017

- Christy

contents

Ann Martine

Balms

45

Vitamins Guide

18

But First, Exfoliate!

46

Powerful Vitamins

25

Skin News

52

Superfood Spa Treatments

56

Juice My Spa!

62

Intravenous Therapy

66

Vitamin Product Photo Shoot

18 But First, Exfoliate!

45 Vitamins Guide

28

Spa of the Month

70

The Wellness Movement!

32

The International Congress of

78

Stones in the Spa

84

Organic & Wellness News

Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia

spa

guide

12

Recap 36

Spa News

o&w

skin

6 From the Editor 98 Advertiser Index

78 Stones in the Spa

28 Spa of the Month

86

Behind the Spa Door with Ginny Tousignant

40

Resume Red Flags

44

Business News

40 Resume Red Flags

image

business

38

Making a Luscious Lash and Brow Statement

88

Face Shape 101

96

Image News

88 Face Shape 101

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229.

Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664.

LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial Assistant & Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Luis Bolaños luis@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com

SEAOLOGY Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

COLLAGEN BUILDING FACIAL

10

This incomparable youth restoring facial leverages the power of marine harvested collagen, active natural exfoliants, and concentrated restoring ingredients for a power-packed anti-aging sea based facial.

Purchase a professional facial and receive our Line Diminishing Advanced Clinical Serum (value $75) as a Gift! It is fantastic to use with Microneedling & Dermaplaning facials!

Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer webdeveloper@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Karen Asquith Carrie Borzillo Erik Lieux Janel Luu

Kristina Mazzenga Jaclyn Peresetsky Jay A. Shorr

Mara Shorr Dori Soukup Amanda Clinton Winter Gül C. Zone

Offer valid through July 31, 2017 BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com july2017

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Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

C-VIT

ILLUMINATE YOUR SKIN

1ST PLACE IN THE VITAMIN C SERUM

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EVENS OUT SKIN TONE Restores vitality and natural glow to the skin.

To carry the complete Sesderma line and for info about workshops and educational trainings contact our customer service line 1 800 796 0996 Miami FL, USA. 67 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables FL, 33134 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #319 on reader service card

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BALMS THE LATEST GROWING

SKIN CARE TREND by

Janel Luu

B

alms are back! Move over, serums and masks — a new generation of balms is entering treatment rooms for a share of the spotlight.

Across cultures and throughout centuries, the humble balm has been trusted as a go-to solution for healing wounds. Ancient balms were concocted using gummy resin and oils from branches, leaves and buds of balsam trees native to the arid regions of North Africa. Balms attained their healing status because these potent resins and oils contain bisabolol, phenolic acids, salicin and other compounds with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties, which modern studies have validated for treating wounds topically.

Not restricted to wound care, balms are a natural treatment for clients suffering from very dry, itchy, irritated and sensitive skin. The condition is aggravated by harsh weather or other skin stressors, and even when clients use makeup in an attempt to camouflage dry, flaky skin around the chin, cheeks and T-zone.

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skin balms

Balms consist of butters, oils and waxes.

PROBLEM: A client's skin needs more intense moisturizing than most creams provide.

SOLUTION: Balms are a simple secret to comforting skin irritation, providing deep moisturization and repairing skin's protective barrier — in the treatment room and for home care.

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Unique Benefits of Balms Balms have a low-profile identity, but they have a plethora of benefits that are causing them to skyrocket in popularity.  WATERLESS FORMULA. Balms consist of butters, oils and waxes, whereas creams and lotions contain fats and water. Balms don't require preservatives to keep them fresh, an issue that waterbased products must address.  INGREDIENT ABUNDANCE. Ingredients in balms are oil soluble, which means that many different oils and butters can be included in a single formula.  PROTECTIVE PROPERTIES. Due to their occlusive properties, balms sit on skin, strengthening the natural hydrolipid barrier that locks in moisture and protects against environmental stressors.

 DRYNESS DETERRENT. Essential fatty acids in balms deeply moisturize while preventing water loss from the epidermis. These lipids provide a protective barrier against dehydration.  AROMATHERAPY. Fragrant butters and oils not only benefit skin tone and suppleness, but also affect mood.

For example, balms containing rosewood, sandalwood or neroli oils have soothing, stabilizing aromas. Balms with frankincense or geranium oils are known for enhancing focus and improving energy levels.  ANTIBACTERIAL AND ANTIINFLAMMATORY PROPERTIES. Resins and oils such as myrrh, kukui and evening primrose help clear up skin irritation, including eczema and psoriasis. Helichrysum, frankincense and rosehip oils are known for minimizing the look of scars and other skin imperfections.

skin balms

 EASY, NO-FUSS APPLICATION. Moringa, sacha inchi and baobab oils have high levels of oleic acids, which sink into skin without leaving a greasy residue.  ANTI-AGING BENEFITS. Balms contain natural botanical oils and butters teeming with omega fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins, all essential in keeping skin moisturized, maintaining the natural moisture factor, reinforcing the natural lipid barrier, neutralizing skin-damaging free radicals and promoting collagen and elastin.

Balms With No Boundaries Like a superhero, balms have finally cast off their humble identity. Often overlooked in the treatment room, balms have evolved into an entire range of skin care.  CLEANSING BALMS. Not for oily or acne-prone skin, cleansing balms are great for very dry, irritated or sensitive skin and provide an easy, comforting start to an anti-aging facial. Simply apply to skin and wipe off with a damp cloth. Some cleansing balms are applied as a solid and then melt into oil.

Others are mixed with water to create a milky emulsion that is rinsed or wiped off.  EXFOLIATING BALMS. Best for dry, normal, combination or sensitive skin, exfoliating balms buff away dead skin while protecting the lipid barrier.

After skin is resurfaced, butters in balms leave skin smooth and moisturized due to essential fatty acids that promote suppleness and elasticity, while oils help maintain skin's natural moisture factor.  MOISTURIZING BALMS. Best for extremely dry, irritated skin. Clients needing an extra boost of moisture can apply before bedtime and leave on overnight.

 BRIGHTENING BALMS. Check ingredient lists for brightening extracts that include mulberry, bearberry, licorice root, kojic acid or lemon oil. Other balms impart a healthy-looking glow due to light reflectors such as mica, silica, mineral powders and colored pigments.  BALM MASKS. Best for hydrating and calming extremely dry, irritated skin after resurfacing treatments or postprocedure. Massage balm mask onto skin, place warm, damp cloth over face, leave on for a few minutes, wipe off excess oil and pat dry.

their lips by using natural lip balms with an SPF of at least 15 in order to repair and maintain the lipid barrier and prevent transepidermal water loss.  SPRAY BALMS. Some balms are formulated into lightweight sprays that quickly create a protective film to repair damage, rehydrate and restore skin's natural lipid balance. AROMATHERAPY BALMS. Fragrant essential oils are formulated into balms that are perfect in the treatment room for creating a relaxing, energizing or nostalgic atmosphere for clients.

 SPF FACE BALMS. Clients with very dry skin who live in dry climates or are often outdoors should use balms with an SPF of at least 15 to protect against free radical damage from environmental exposure.  SPF LIP BALMS. Unlike skin on the rest of the face, the lips have no sebaceous glands or stratum corneum. Lacking a hydrolipid barrier, they quickly become dehydrated, sore and chapped. Encourage clients to care for

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skin balms

Best Balm Ingredient Trends Common balm ingredients include shea, avocado and almond butters, which contain fatty acids similar to skin's lipids as well as phytosterols that restore moisture, elasticity and firmness. But why stop there? Check ingredient lists for exotic and unusual (or unpronounceable) oils and butters. Here are a few: ABYSSINIAN SEED OIL. Made famous by the Queen of Sheba for beautifying skin, this oil has an omega-9 fatty acid content of up to 65 percent. Vitamins A, B, D and E promote cell rejuvenation, while oleic acid soothes inflammation of blemish-prone skin and helps balance sebum production.

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 BAOBAB BUTTER. Known as “The Tree of Life” in African legend, baobab symbolizes health in a harsh, dry landscape. Baobab butter's superior levels

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of omega fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins relieve skin irritation and combat environmental damage. Excellent for mature skin, it absorbs quickly without clogging pores.  MORINGA SEED OIL. Ancient Egyptians used moringa oil for its cleansing properties and protection against harsh desert conditions. Praised for improving the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots, this oil contains up to 72 percent omega-9 fatty acid content to balance skin and seal in moisture while vitamins A, C and E protect against environmental damage.

From Basic Balm to Superhero Status With multiple benefits, uses and ingredients, balms have achieved a superhero status. When treating clients with extremely dry, stressed skin, introduce them to the benefits of balms, helping them manage and even prevent the condition in between visits. That way, you can be your client's superhero too!  Janel Luu has more than 30 years of experience as an international educator, skin care researcher and developer, international beauty columnist and influential consulting developer

 SACHA INCHI SEED OIL & BUTTER. Incan women used this oil for beauty treatments. An award-winning ingredient with up to 85 percent omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, this oil has antiinflammatory properties that relieve redness, blemish-prone skin, eczema and psoriasis.

for major cosmetic companies. In 1999, she founded Bielle Cosmetics, a research and development company, and in 2004 she launched Le Mieux Cosmetics, an anti-aging professional skin care brand. Luu's innate love of formulating and expertise in anti-aging cellular technology has inspired her to teach more than 20,000 professionals and physicians in the skin care industry.

Excessive inflammation, dehydration, visible capillaries, increased sensitivity, erythema, or dullness with the skin. These are just a few signs of a Compromised Barrier in need of repair.

Rhonda Allison’s 2017 CBR Facial & Peel Restores the Epidermal Barrier/Infuses Skin with Nutrients, Moisture-Binding & Building Ingredients/Soothes, Nourishes & Reduces Redness/Hydrates, Protects & Revitalizes

With three-times the power of regular Vitamin C to protect, firm & brighten.

Visit us at rhondaallison.com | 866-313-SKIN (7546) Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #190 on reader service card

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BUT

FIRST,

EXFOLIATE! Manual and mechanical methods for scraping it off in the spa

by Karen Asquith

Regular exfoliation is imperative to maintain healthy, glowing skin.

By removing the keratinized cells, product penetration is increased, the skin’s natural cell turnover is stimulated, skin respiration and texture is improved, and it feels soft and silky. A variety of exfoliation techniques exist, however they are not all suitable for every skin type and condition. Chemical exfoliators — and some mechanical ones — can be too stimulating for sensitized skin, whereas enzymatic exfoliants may not be sufficient for skin with a large buildup of keratinized cells. Estheticians must analyze their clients' skin to determine which type of exfoliant is best suited for each individual’s clinical treatment and home care.

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skin but first, exfoliate!

MANUAL EXFOLIATION Requires a physical action on the skin utilizing a brush, implement or product with a specific particle that must be massaged onto the skin.

Face scrubs contain a particle that is massaged onto the skin to eliminate the keratinized cells. This is performed after cleansing. Common exfoliating particles in face scrubs include rice and nut granules, however it is imperative that the edges are smooth, not jagged. Polyethylene micro-spheres were popular for many years, as they were spherical and efficiently exfoliated the skin without causing micro-lacerations.

However these are no longer utilized, as they have been found to harm marine life.

These types of “scrubs� can be safely used on all skin types, however they should be avoided on certain skin conditions, including any form of sensitivity, pustules, eczema, psoriasis or sunburn. This type of exfoliation is normally included in a facial treatment, and factored into the price of the service.

Body scrubs essentially use the same particles as face scrubs and are 20

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used in the same fashion, most often in the shower as part of a home care regimen. When used in a professional body treatment, the esthetician applies the scrub and massages it lightly onto the skin. The client then showers to remove the particles from the skin.

Any areas of abraded skin, cuts or sunburn should be avoided with scrubs, as they can be painful and further aggravate the wound. Full body exfoliation in the spa normally ranges from $90 to $125 as a standalone treatment.

A massage is often included with the treatment at an additional cost.

Face brushing is a manual technique utilizing a facial brush, constructed of synthetic bristles and used in combination with a secondary cleanser. Synthetic bristles are easy to sterilize and dry quite quickly. The brush is moved over the face in circular movements to remove dead skin cells (note that this is not suitable for sensitized skin or skin with pustules). This step is incorporated into the facial after cleansing and factored into the treatment price. The manual brushing also stimulates blood circulation in the skin, making it an excellent choice for asphyxiated skin.

Body brushing differs from facial brushing in that it can be done with a dry, coarse, natural hairbrush. Dry brushing removes the dead cells but also stimulates circulation, making it beneficial for circulatory concerns.

Clients with thin or irritated skin may find this method uncomfortable. For those clients, opt for a brush with synthetic bristles and a foaming cleanser.

These brushes are similar to those used for facials, made in larger versions for the body. The cost of a complete body brushing treatment in the spa is approximately $90 to $125. A massage can be added (at an additional cost) if desired.

Dermaplaning uses a 10-gauge scalpel to remove the top layer of keratinized skin cells and also the fine hairs from the face. It is great for all skin types, however it is not suitable for certain skin conditions such as acne, rosacea and psoriasis. Estheticians require training to correctly perform this technique, which can be done as a standalone treatment lasting approximately 30 minutes, or combined in a facial with an enzyme peel. Dermaplaning can be performed to prepare the skin for laser and IPL treatments, with prices ranging from $75 to $200 per treatment.

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skin but first, exfoliate!

Dermafiling is performed utilizing an abrasive file. The most popular type uses crushed diamonds to micro-polish the skin with varying levels of grit. The file is passed over the skin to gently remove the dead cells, however areas with hyperpigmentation, lines, wrinkles and scarring can be treated by providing more attention to these specific concerns with the file. Dermafiling is not suitable for any acneic or sensitized skin conditions. This treatment takes approximately 30 to 45 minutes, and can be performed either as a standalone treatment or combined with a facial and enzyme peel. Prices range from $75 to $200.

MECHANICAL EXFOLIATION Utilizes various modalities to eliminate the keratinized cells from the skin.

Microdermabrasion is a technique that sprays tiny crystals onto the skin at a high intensity to remove the dead cells. The types of crystals, the amount of pressure used to express the crystals onto the skin and the amount

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of suction used to remove them are all adjusted to suit the skin type and condition being treated. It softens wrinkles, improves age spots and brightens the skin. Microdermabrasion is suited for all skin types, but should be avoided on acneic and sensitive skin. It can be incorporated into a full facial or performed as an individual treatment.

Prices range from $100 to $150 per treatment.

Electric brushes work in the same fashion as manual brushes, however they have a controlled and constant rpm. They are suited for all skin types, but should not be used on extremely sensitive skin and pustular acne. Electric brushes are most often used in full facial treatments, and the price is factored into the service.

Ultrasonic facials utilize a blade with high speed oscillations that are powered by ultrasound waves to remove dead skin cells. This modality also stimulates blood flow, making it beneficial for aging skin. This treatment benefits all skin types, and is priced at approximately $150 to $200.

Galvanic iontophoresis consists of two electrodes — an active one that is used on the face and a passive one that is either a pad placed under the shoulder or a bar that the client holds to complete the circuit. The direct (galvanic) current forces the water-based products deeper into the skin. For exfoliation, any water based AHA can be used. This is normally part of a complete facial treatment and can be used on all skin types compatible with AHAs. Indirect high frequency is used to increase product penetration and circulation. The client holds the electrode, and the esthetician touches the client’s skin to complete the circuit.

Products are applied to the skin and the esthetician massages or taps the skin to provide a relaxing treatment with the benefits of increased product penetration. This modality is factored into a complete facial treatment.

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skin but first, exfoliate!

CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION Utilizes substances that break down the protein bonds to promote exfoliation.

Chemical peels utilize AHAs and BHAs to remove the top layer of cells on the skin to reveal the newer, younger cells below. AHAs are water soluble and BHAs are oil soluble, therefore they are often used in combination for oily/acneic skins. An esthetician can use a maximum AHA concentration of 30%, and the lowest pH is 3. The lower the pH, the more exfoliating the peel.

Therefore, pH is just as important as the concentration of acids. Glycolic is the smallest acid molecule, therefore it penetrates quickly into the skin, and requires neutralization to stop the exfoliating action.

There are numerous AHAs available, such as lactic, malic, tartaric and mandelic — which are often combined

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HC

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in a peel formulation. Lactic is a gentle acid due to its larger molecular size, making it the best choice for mildly sensitive skin. The BHA salicylic acid is often combined at a 2% level in peels for acneic skin.

Peels can be utilized as standalone treatments or combined with a full facial, however most often they are prescribed in a series of one per week for four to six weeks, depending on the skin type and condition. Peels are used not only to exfoliate but also to minimize lines, wrinkles, scarring, acne and age spots. Prices range from $45 to $200 per treatment.

Enzyme peels are well tolerated by all skin types and conditions, and many can be used on sensitive skin depending on the concentration and type of enzymes. The enzymes gently break down any protein bonds that are holding the skin cells at the surface to release them. Enzyme peels are the most

versatile peels, as they can be utilized on most individuals and are often used prior to microdermabrasion treatments.

Many enzyme-based exfoliants need to be kept moist to ensure the action of the enzymes. They are generally combined with a complete facial treatment.

Karen Asquith is an honored member of the Stanford International “Who’s Who” of business executive professionals. Currently she is the national director of education for G.M. Collin Skin Care, where she provides skin care training programs and guidance for an international staff. Asquith is a frequent guest lecturer at skin care industry forums throughout North America. Previously, she was the director of education for a prestigious skin care academy in Canada, and now holds a position on the advisory board of Niagara College.

She contributes to professional skin care publications and consumer magazines and makes guest appearances on Web M.D. and the Life and Leisure Network.

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Revitalizing Heaven Like nutrition for glowing, beautiful skin, this luxurious, fast-absorbing Facial Oil by Alighten Natural Skin Care is moisturizing without feeling heavy. Formulated with a unique, antioxidant-rich complex of watermelon, pumpkin, spinach, blueberry and rosehip seed oils to help gently clarify and revitalize skin's appearance and infuse it with vitamins, flavonoids and essential fatty acids. Leaves skin feeling healthy, plumped and hydrated!

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Pinch of Pineapple Providing a gentle and moisturizing exfoliation, this new and improved Pineapple Facial Scrub from Lucrèce is infused with numerous botanicals such as aloe, chamomile, rosemary, algae, and pineapple fruit extract, blended together with an abundant concentration of natural jojoba beads and seaweed extract to effectively remove dead skin cells and prepare the skin for professional treatments. Pineapple me, please!

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SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

This clear, lightweight Cleaning Complex from iS Clinical is powerful, yet gentle enough for hypersensitive skin. This product incorporates a balance of bio-nutrients, antioxidants and mild resurfacing ingredients that thoroughly cleanse the surface and pores of the skin without stripping away essential natural oils, leaving skin soft and smooth. Excellent as a treatment step in professional facials, it is very effective at removing makeup! Great for all skin types and ages, this product even helps with blemish-prone skin.

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spa of the month

Body Soul at Langham Place, New York, NY A balance of the mind, body and soul based on Traditional Chinese Medicine

By Amanda Clinton Winter Catering to the city that never sleeps, Chuan Body + Soul at Langham Place Hotel is a luxurious haven away from the tension of the bustling city of New York. The word “Chuan” means “flowing water,” which is an enticing feature of the spa’s luxurious atmosphere. Based on harmony of the mind, body and soul, Chuan Body + Soul opened its doors for the first time in April of 2017, embracing a feng shui design to help guests recharge and relax their body and mind. “We are the only international spa based on the principles of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM),” says Nicole Yih, spa manager at Chuan Body + Soul. “We aim to re-energize the entire body by applying century-old TCM principles to modern spa techniques.” A perfect blend of luxury, comfort and style, this urban oasis incorporates saunas, showers and an extensive menu of exceptional services, giving the spa a unique ambiance for clients to rediscover the source of their energy and well-being.

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spa spa of the month

goals, client retention, product information and treatment etiquette. All Chuan staff members are subject to a staff performance review after their first 90 days with the spa, and then afterward on an annual basis. All staff members are also required to set individual retail goals on a monthly basis.

To incentivize employees to reach their individual goals as well as the overall goals of Chuan staff, Yih works with her vendors to keep their programs and products innovative, fun and exciting. She mentions, “I think the promise of being able to work with innovative and inventive new product lines and services is incentivizing for any spa professional.”

Marketing

Signature Treatment The foundation of each Chuan Body + Soul treatment is based on TCM and the five elemental forces: Wood (liver), fire (heart), earth (stomach), metal (lungs) and water (kidneys). Clients complete a five-element questionnaire at the beginning of each treatment to ensure that their therapy directly addresses what best suits their current body chemistry. This allows the therapist to guide the treatment to focus on the element that the client best responds to. Chuan’s five-element essential oils, massage oils and teas have been created exclusively and in consultation with professionals in Chinese medicine and naturopathy.

The spa’s most popular treatment is their Chuan Harmony Massage. This unique mind, body and soul experience combines therapeutic elements of acupressure with various relaxation massage techniques to induce a deep sense of calming in each client. A signature blend of essential oils, representative of the element based on their prior questionnaire and consultation, are then incorporated into this massage 30

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to assist the therapist in achieving the balance that specific client needs. This therapeutic massage treatment incorporates a guided meditation breathing ritual and acupressure points to help create vitality and clarity within the client’s mind, body and soul.

Training The Chuan team is fully devoted to an all-inclusive approach to wellness. Yih mentions, “Our staff is what truly defines the Chuan Spa experience. We have a great team dedicated to solely five-star luxury service.” Yih holds daily meetings with her team to discuss dayto-day operations and to brainstorm new philosophies on how to “WOW” their guests. “We are always looking for new and innovative ways to get to know our guests, which is why we are dedicated to making our team meetings a consistent part of our daily routine.”

The training period for Chuan’s current spa staff took place 30 days prior to opening and educated employees on the goals of the new spa, as well as the expectations of the staff. This included information regarding retail

The team at Chuan Body + Soul is currently working on several ways to embrace the new opening of the spa via social media. The spa intends to incorporate a marketing strategy that includes Facebook and Instagram content as well as a membership program, which they plan to communicate through email and via the hotel’s website.

Special Events and Promotions Chuan Body + Soul and Langham Place Hotel currently occupy 27 floors of a 60-floor apartment building. The spa recently held a special preview event during their soft opening specifically for the residents of the building, allowing the residents to visit the spa and sample treatments. The spa plans to work alongside the Langham Place Hotel team to create special events and promotions for travel buyers, planners and agents during holidays and special occasions. Chuan also plans to design tailored offerings for private events, bridal parties and get-togethers for spa guests, residents of the building and out-of-towners.

spa spa of the month

Retail Chuan is an international spa brand.

In addition to their own line of Chuan products, the corporation has a list of vendors to choose from that have been selected by the corporate office because of their success at their other locations around the world. Each spa director is empowered to choose one or two product lines outside of that list that is of specific interest to their individual location. If those products prove to be successful at that location, they are added to the list and made available for other Chuan spas around the world.

To incentivize clients to purchase these retail products, the team members of Chuan Body + Soul are trained to not only understand the benefits and ingredients of each of the products, but also to promote the products to clients during and after each treatment. The staff offers product recommendations solely based on each guest’s specific needs.

Spa Director Spotlight

N

icole Yih started her career 18 years ago at the renowned Breaker's Spa in Palm Beach, Fla. A native New Yorker, Yih comes to Langham Place with prior experience at some of New York City’s most celebrated hotel spas, including Madison Belvedere Spa & Club, the New York Palace and Mandarin Oriental New York, for which she was on the spa’s opening team. Her most recent position was as Director of Operations for The Setai Spa and Club Wall Street. “I am so excited to introduce Chuan Body + Soul, New York,” says Yih. “I am confident that our fo-

cus on innovative treatments based on Traditional Chinese Medicine is going to be well-received by the savvy New York spa-goer, and a welcome addition to the offerings at Langham Place for travelers visiting the city.”

Amanda Clinton Winter is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

Rundown Chuan Body + Soul at Langham Place 400 Fifth Avenue New York, N.Y. 10018 langhamhotels.com 212.613.8720 Launch: April 2017 Square Feet: 4,000 Spa Owner: Langham Hospitality Group Spa Director: Nicole Yih Staff to guest ratio: 3:1 Spa Revenue Composition: 80 percent massage, 20 percent facial

Amenities: Three treatment rooms (two single, one for couples), retail area, Finnish sauna equipped with a Himalayan salt wall in both the men’s and women’s locker rooms, individual aromatherapy steam showers in both lockers rooms, 24-hour fitness center

furnished with equipment and fitness on demand.

Retail Lines: Kerstin Florian, HydraFacial

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Thriving Inspiration at the 2017 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA!

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hank you to EVERYONE who joined us on May 21st and 22nd! Thousands of diverse spa and esthetic professionals gathered inside the Pennsylvania Convention Center for an inspirational two days of spa industry LOVE! Solo estheticians, skin care professionals, spa owners and MORE met and mingled to REFRESH their mindsets by balancing TOP technologies with motivational and inspiring ideas. A wider perspective of the industry allowed attendees to flourish with NEW eyes and OPEN minds as they rekindled energy for both their professional AND personal success! The premise of this year’s Philadelphia Congress, “CONNECT,” echoed throughout enticing Main Stage presentations, stimulating conferences, an exquisite Exhibitor Floor and our EXCLUSIVE Spa + Wellness A Truly Inspirational Lineup!

Summit! The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is dedicated to The congress began each morning with providing skin care and spa profesan enticing opening ceremony that sionals with the potential to replenemphasized BALANCING the minds ish their SPARK for the skin care, of attendees and re-energizing their esthetics and wellness industry… passions to kick-start NEW success! and that is exactly what we did!

Jaclyn Peresetsky, master esthetician, Attendees RAVED about the extrue believer of happiness and owner clusivity of the congress as they of four spas in the United States, eleccommented on their experiences trified attendees’ minds as she invitat this year’s event… ed them to participate in motivational yoga movements, healing vibrational therapies, exclusive breathing techniques, happiness and gratitude lectures and MORE! An alluring energy flowed through the aisles of our Main Stage on both Sunday and Monday as skin care and spa professionals came TOGETHER to not only soak up new

Incredible opportunity!

Top notch congress!

What a change…

A great inspiration!

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spa thriving inspiration: philly 2017 recap knowledge and perspectives, but also to BALANCE and OPEN their minds to the increasingly popular trends of this cultivating industry. Jaclyn’s opening ceremonies set an encouraging tone at the beginning of each day and gave each attendee a breath of fresh air to take with them on their journey throughout The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa!

A Series of Well-Rounded Tools…

Attendees had the opportunity to learn from the BEST about how to bring joy into the lives of their clients through topics that THRIVED on rejuvenating the energy of a business! Experts provided a well-rounded plethora of tools, tips and tricks in a variety of conferences including Marketing, Business, Retail, Happiness, Mindfulness, Makeup and Social Media, where they released the latest trends and styles customized for different clientele! Attendees took advantage of each expert’s willingness to provide nothing but the BEST information to further the growth of their own success.

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A UNIQUE Opportunity to Discover, Perfect and Enhance Industry Skills!

wellness! A sense of community quickly formed as clients and business members exuded POSITIVITY through each

Product Focused Training classes in-

other as they moved from one exhibitor

spired attendees and empowered them

booth to the next! Innovative products,

to refresh their businesses with keys,

fresh techniques and bustling trends

tools and exclusive information during more than 50 intimate sessions. Experts revealed their insights on chemical peels, micro-channeling, cosmetic lasers, anti-pollution skin care and MORE, while attendees had the opportunity to work hands-on with the most groundbreaking waxing strategies, micro-needling techniques, quick-fix peels and LED technology. Attendees were also enlightened on the importance of client consultation, recovery tactics and etiquettes!

PACKED with Innovative Products, Techniques, Trends…

A welcoming and happy energy filled the convention center as speakers and exhibitors came together with attendees on the Exhibitor Floor to share their love for all things skin care, spa and

added an extra dose of inspiration to this year’s Exhibitor Floor as attendees had the opportunity to network one-onone with exhibitors while the ECSTATIC energy on the floor reminded attendees why they chose to work in such a beautiful industry.

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia offered an exclusive two-day opportunity for attendees to refresh their minds within a supportive and like-minded community. Exhibitors, speakers and attendees came together in harmony as they SHARED their passions for all things skin care, spa and wellness!

spa thriving inspiration: philly 2017 recap

Co-hosted by The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, a NEW way of WELLNESS debuted in Philadelphia on May 20-22 as the ULTIMATE conference for combining holistic healing with traditional spa services! Esthetic and spa professionals from EIGHT different states gathered with some of the industry’s LEADING educators and holistic healers for a weekend journey filled with inspirational workshops and conferences specifically designed to help professionals in the industry to take their spa services ONE STEP FURTHER! The Spa + Wellness Summit inspired attendees to CONNECT with each other while being given the opportunity to access some of the most cutting-edge transformational resources in this industry. Holistic professionals guided each and every attendee to open their minds to absorb NEW skills and reinvent their practices in a unique and POWERFUL way.

A warm energy created by incense, candles and a mandala of roses filled the room as attendees of the Spa + Wellness Summit joined together to experience the WELLNESS shift. Vice President of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Christèle de La Haye, began the Summit Saturday, May 20th with a beautiful opening ceremony that divinely set the scene for the Summit weekend. Throughout the weekend, attendees indulged in peaceful meditations, techniques for shifting negative energy and alluring sound healing therapy practices. Experts leading the Summit enlightened attendees with their expertise pertaining to wellness programs in the spa, superfoods and super herbs and EXHILARATING Happiness and Mindfulness conferences that beautifully opened the eyes of attendees. Not only did attendees of the Spa + Wellness Summit discover their TRUE light of freedom, they were also guided into an innovative new world of WELLNESS!

We look forward to seeing you in Philadelphia next year on April 22nd and 23rd, 2018!!!

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Energetic Infusion

The rich, invigorating Black Currant Anti-Aging Body Wash from Nature Pure Labs moisturizes and cleanses the body while regenerating every inch of skin. Infuse skin with the energizing organic blend of black currant, chamomile, aloe, shitake mushroom, yarrow, elderflower and acai berry extracts and a multi-vitamin cocktail of vitamins A, E and B5, leaving skin healthy and radiant!

866.640.SKIN (7546) naturepure.com

Burst of Brightness

The powerful Brightening Serum from Le Mieux Cosmetics contains eight advanced brightening agents and four potent peptides. It helps minimize the appearance of dark spots, uneven skin tone and dull, lackluster skin. It is best for dry, mature, normal, combination, oily and sensitive skin.

888.327.8188 lemieuxcosmetics.com

The fast absorbing Professional Firming and Shaping Gel by Circadia noticeably smoothes and tightens targeted areas, improving the appearance of skin texture and cellulite. Apply twice a day and notice smoother and firmer skin and improved overall skin tone and texture. An excellent companion product for in-clinic treatments with body wraps!

800.630.4710 circadia.com

SPA

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

Firm & Shape

Healthy Glow

LightStim BodySerum helps to fight free radicals and is specifically formulated to use with LightStim's LED Bed. Lightly activated skin care with photosomes, this serum helps to repair sun damage, improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, provide hydration to the skin and reduce redness and inflammation. Restore suppleness and rejuvenate the skin for a healthy glow!

949.502.4088 lightstim.com

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Discover the Benefits of Coconut Oil 100% Pure Fractionated Coconut Oil found in the Bon Vital’® Coconut line of creme, lotion, gel, and oil provides intense hydration and therapeutic benefits. The unscented formula is ideal for blending with Bon Vital’ Essential Oils to create a customized aromatherapy massage experience.

Discover how the benefits of Coconut Oil create the ultimate massage experience with the award-winning Bon Vital’ Coconut line.

bonvital.com Bon Vital’® trademark is property of Performance Health and/or its subsidiaries and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2017 — Performance Health. All rights reserved. P09105

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• FACILITY How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there?

We are located in an adorable turn-ofthe-century, foursquare home that has been turned into a spa. The first level is home to our pedicure and manicure stations, brow bar, front desk and retail boutique. The second level is home to our three treatment rooms and a steam shower for massage, facials, waxing and body treatments.

• LEADERSHIP ROLE

Behind

TheSpaDoor with Ginny Tousignant, owner of Blooming Moon Wellness Spa in Portland, Oregon

Creating a “home” for your clients • CONCEPT How would you define the concept of your spa?

I started Blooming Moon Wellness Spa with the intention of bringing all “green,” all-natural treatments to our spa guests for a full body wellness experience. I have a whole body approach to skin care, which began with my studying and practicing of holistic, Ayurvedic esthetics. We were recently 38

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nominated as Portland, Oregon’s favorite “green” business.

What are your most popular treatments?

We offer a wide variety of treatments including massage, facial, waxing, body treatments, hand and foot treatments and makeup, but our most popular treatments are our massages and facials.

What daily challenges do you encounter in your position?

It is a daily challenge to manage my staff! It is no secret that maintaining control and making sure everything runs smoothly on a daily basis is the hardest part of owning a business.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life?

I take care of myself by giving myself time to do things that I love such as hiking, reading, spa days for myself, yoga, cooking, painting and spending time with my family and friends.

What takes most of your time every day?

Staff communication. It is so important to me that I have strong communication with my team. My management team and I are in constant communication and we are always giving each other updates on the staff and daily hiccups to make sure the spa runs smoothly.

• TEAM BUILDING How many employees do you have and what are their specialties?

I have 17 employees: Four estheticians who specialize in Brazilian, brow waxing, facials, microcurrent, micro-

We are a small enough business to do check-ins whenever we see fit to help employees attain their goals. dermabrasion, ultrasound and chemical peels; three nail technicians who specialize in gel manicures and nail art; six massage therapists and four front desk and administrative staff members.

What is your hiring process?

I have a three-part hiring process. I begin with a phone interview and then follow up with a face-to-face interview, which may include two interviewers, and end the process with a practical, which is the potential employee’s opportunity to showcase their specialties to myself and to another expert in the field of my choice.

How do you select the people that work with you?

There are a few stipulations on which we hire. They have to be confident as well as a friendly, open “people-person.” A candidate with a strong customer service and day spa background is always preferred as well.

How do you evaluate employees?

I do a 90-day check-in after a new employee is hired. Check-ins consist of a short meeting where we determine the specific employee’s short and long term goals, go over sales numbers and discuss any ideas they may have. After the initial check-in, employees are subject to one yearly evaluation. However, we are a small enough business to do check-ins whenever we see fit to help employees attain their goals.

How do you train your staff?

anticipating our guests’ needs as if we have a guest in our “home.”

We have a new hire process that takes approximately two months. We train employees to assure they are providing our guests with excellent customer service and also familiarize them with all of our services and product lines.

What incentives do you offer to your clients to be sure they come back again?

How do you keep your employees happy and incentivized?

I offer my employees health care coverage and monthly bonuses if their personal sales goals have been met.

I also have an employee of the month program that is based off of customer retention, customer service and retail sales. We also host work family dinners and other parties to celebrate every employee’s birthday!

• RETAIL What are your retail goals?

30 percent service to sales ratio.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals?

My staff receives commission on all their sales. However, if they sell more than 30 percent, they get bumped up to a higher tier of commission! I also offer small prizes as incentives such as free services and products.

Where is your retail area located?

On the first floor of the spa, and it is about one third of the entire spa.

• EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE How do you keep clients loyal and consistent?

Our customer service is impeccable for every client each time they visit. I tell all of my employees, “You are not just in the beauty industry, you are in the customer service industry.” I remind them all the time that our job is about

Our membership program gives our regular monthly clients a HUGE discount on each of their monthly services.

Plus, they receive discounts on additional services as well as our products.

It is a small price to pay to ensure that our books are always full!

MY TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS

What are the most important lessons you have learned from failures or challenges?

I’ve learned to always stay positive in the face of discouraging moments. Although it’s not always easy to remember, everything always works out in the end! Also, if there is a specific job or task you don’t like to do, I suggest paying someone to do it. The less stress, the better!

For example, I hire someone to do my bookkeeping as well as someone to deep clean the spa weekly. Keep your focus on the things you love.

What advice would you give someone who would like to manage a spa?

Never assume your employees or clients know something.

Keep a clear line of communication with your employees and thoroughly focus on giving each of your guests the best possible experience every time they visit.

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Resume D E R Flags What Sounds The Alarm On The Wrong Potential Hire?

by Mara Shorr and Jay A. Shorr

As any seasoned business owner will tell you, when you start off with the wrong candidates, you end up with a bad employee. In order to jump start your human resource journey on the best possible footing, beware of the following top resume red flags during your search. “Just say no� to candidates with the following red flags on their resume:

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business resume red flags No previous industry experience.

If they haven’t worked in your particular space before, that’s not necessarily a reason to disqualify them. However industry experience is a plus, and as consultants we encourage our clients to seek out receptionists who have worked in hospitality, or medical assistants who have worked in other medical specialties. You don’t want your spa to be the first place they ever answer the phone professionally or the first time they even set foot in a spa. However, if they’ve answered phones at an upscale hotel and had personal experience with facials or injectables, that may still be a combination that works for your business.

Job hopping history. Look at the length of time the candidate has spent at each previous position on his or her resume. If the candidate has spent less than a year with each individual employer, know that you will, indeed, be next on that list. If you’re looking to keep an

employee for more than a year, this is NOT the person for you.

Spelling errors or typos. This indicates a lack of attention to detail. Think about how this could affect patient or client communication or charting. If your marketers and patient coordinators possess this trait, your spa will look sloppy in written communication and social media account postings as well.

Reference check issues. Does the candidate only list friends as references? When asking the candidate to list references, be sure to stipulate that you’re looking for professional references, people that s/he has worked with in the past. You’re not interested in former classmates, book club members, childhood friends or happy hour buddies; they can’t provide valid workplace experience or feedback on professionalism, sales skills, etc. Another warning sign: the candidate doesn’t

have any references at all. Chances are, unless someone is applying for a job right out of (or during) high school or trade school, they should have at least a few strong professional references under their belt. If no one has positive things to say, that’s a warning sign they may have a reputation for mistreating their patients, leaving before appointments, missing time with clients or a poor bedside manner. Finally, ask references about the potential employee’s title, pay scale and timeline of employment to confirm that this information matches what’s on the resume.

Did someone say they planned events and did all of the marketing at their previous spa, but they really worked two days a week as a receptionist? (Yes, this does happen.)

An off-putting social media account. Is there blatant underage drinking in the posted photos or videos?

Are there sexually explicit photos that make you uncomfortable? Do a quick check before calling the candidate for an interview to see how s/he represents themself to the public. Ask yourself if this is how you’d want a member of your team representing you and your business. If not, keep moving.

Resists a background check. This is a sign they’re hiding something. Your entire team has the ability to come into contact with retail and back-bar products, money and undressed patients (and their purses!). In the case of a medical practice or surgical facility, your employees may even come into contact with scheduled narcotic drugs.

Honesty and a clean record are key for the spa and its staff members to avoid fraud, theft and lawsuits.

Education listed doesn’t match up with their actual degrees or certifications. This sounds incredibly obvious, but there are cases in which a business faced repercussions after not checking these items ahead of an offer letter, and it wasn’t until the start date that the practice realized the employee

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business resume red flags

Doesn’t pass a trial run. Have the candidate perform the service you’re hiring them for BEFORE you actually make the hire. For example, do a series of phone call test runs for a receptionist candidate, and assess how they answer the phone, if they can follow a script, answer the phone with a smile, and more. If you’re hiring a provider, have them perform a treatment on one or two staff members to get honest feedback. How is their bedside manner and their touch? Do they forget to

adjust the temperature in the treatment room? How are their sales skills? Cut them some slack, of course, since they don’t know your particular policies, but know that a good candidate will know their basics enough to wow you.

how clothes should fit, whether tattoos can be visible or covered, if hair should be pulled back when treating patients, and so on. 

Mara Shorr, B.S., CAC II-

Finally, don’t judge a book by its cover! Just because an applicant is incredibly attractive doesn’t mean they’re the perfect hire for you. Pretty on the inside could be ugly — or empty — on the inside. In addition, just because someone doesn’t match the esthetics of the rest of your staff doesn’t mean they aren’t right for you, either. Having someone with a different appearance than the rest of your team could be just what your business needs to shape up and grow, and even bring in a new clientele.

However, given our industry, be sure to explain to the candidate the dress code or appearance policies you currently have in place. This may include

X, serves as the vice president of marketing and business development for The Best Medical Business Solutions. She is a level II-X certified esthetic consultant, utilizing her knowledge and experience to help clients achieve their potential. Shorr is also a national speaker and writer.

Jay A. Shorr, B.A., MBM-C, CAC I-X, is the founder and managing partner of The Best Medical Business Solutions, assisting medical practices with the operational, financial, and administrative health of their business. He is also a professional motivational speaker, an advisor to the Certified Aesthetic Consultant Program, and a certified medical business manager from Florida Atlantic University.

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didn’t have the hospital privileges they claimed they did. Look into additional information as well: Did they let their electrology license expire? Were they 10 credits shy of graduating from their undergraduate degree in business and don’t have the degree they claim to have? Did they fail to achieve everything needed to become an esthetician? Make sure you know exactly who you’re hiring.

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Hello, Russia!

Repêchage® Professional Skin Care will now be available to salons and spas in Russia. With this launch, the seaweed-based skin care company’s products and treatments will now be available in 45 countries worldwide. To inaugurate this new venture, Sarfati visited Moscow and St. Petersburg to attend two Repêchage launch parties in the major Russian cities, meet with the press, and host a private training for beauty professionals.

800.248.SKIN (7546) repechage.com

Project Welcome Home

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

Business

Students of the Year

Bioelements is thrilled to announce the spring 2017 Students of the Year from esthetics schools across the United States: Bailey Miranda, Cari DeFlorio, Jenny Sanchez, and Patricia Harsell. Bioelements Student of the Year program recognizes students who show tremendous promise in the field of esthetics, and rewards them with the products that will set their careers up for future success. Each student is presented with a Student of the Year Certificate and Bioelements Professional Esthetics Discovery Set to support their promising careers in esthetics.

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888.626.4363 shankara.com

800.433.6650 bioelements.com

Fashion For A Cause

Caviar of Switzerland and BelleCôte Paris recently participated in a fashion-filled event in Skokie, Ill., the 2017 Fashion For A Cause for the Juvenile Protective Association at Bloomingdale’s Old Orchard on March 16, 2017. The team learned about this spring’s HOTTEST denim trends and were able to shop guilt-free, as Bloomingdale’s Old Orchard donated 10 percent of all sales to JPA!

855.587.8781 caviarofswitzerland.us

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Shankara recently donated net profits to Project Welcome Home. This powerful program transforms lives, restores wellbeing, and focuses on a renewed sense of connection and purpose. It addresses the root of the extreme stress of military life including: multiple deployments, traumatic loss and reintegration with family and community. The program proudly serves military installations, veterans affairs hospitals, vet centers and communities around the United States.

855.587.8781 bellecoteparis.com LNEonline.com

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Uncovering the essentials for healthy skin

by Gül Ç. Zone

In 1911 Casimir Funk, a Polish biochemist, coined the word “vitamin” while doing research on preventing nerve inflammation at the Lister Institute in London. He identified a member of the amine chemical family as being capable of reducing neuritis in patients. He termed the compound a “vitamine,” given its vital role in life. The “e” was later dropped as it was recognized that not all vitamins are amines. Today’s definition of vitamins can be summarized as organic compounds that are essential to humans and some plants for normal growth and nutrition.

POWERFUL

VITAMINS LNEonline.com

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Vitamins are vital for the well-being of the eyes, heart, nervous system and connective tissue, which includes the skin.

With the exception of vitamin K, each new vitamin was assigned a letter in alphabetical order of its discovery. Most of these vitamins were discovered in the study of diseases, where the absence of specific chemicals was found to be the culprit. Some vitamins can be synthesized in small quantities by the body, but most must be derived from the diet.

Vitamins typically function as co-enzymes in biochemical processes, in addition to acting as signaling molecules, powerful antioxidants and hormones.

Furthermore, they can serve as carriers for electron transport and carbon dioxide transfer, which controls cellular energy and metabolism. Vitamins are vital for the well-being of the eyes, heart, nervous system and connective tissue, which includes the skin.

CHEMISTRY Vitamins can be classified by their solubility with water (hydrophilic – water loving) or oil (lipophilic – oil or fat lov48

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ing). Lipophilic or fat-soluble vitamins include vitamins A, D, E and K. Their chemical structure is substantially built on carbon and hydrogen chemistry typical of fat compounds. Ingested lipophilic vitamins have an affinity for fatty tissue. Adipose (fat) tissue is the second largest storage site for vitamin A after the liver. As a result, over-consumption of fat-soluble vitamins can cause toxicity, as they are stored in the fat and take longer to clear the body. Watersoluble vitamins must be delivered to the body every day in small, controlled doses, as excess amounts are excreted.

Water soluble vitamins differ from the fat-soluble molecules by having polar functional groups including nitrogen and oxygen, which typically have a high affinity and impart solubility in water.

In terms of skin care formulations, the water versus fat-solubility of a vitamin determines their rate of permeability within skin and the delivery method (e.g., microgel or lotions).

Vitamins A, B, C, D, E, K and P are all essential to healthy skin, either via

nutritional intake or topical application.

Let’s examine each vitamin, its chemical structure, delivery system and specific skin benefits.

A

VITAMIN A The great normalizer, vitamin A is essential for all skin types and many skin conditions. The common form of vitamin A in the body is retinol (vitamin A1), which is derived from vitamin precursors such as carotenoids (e.g., Carotene) and retinyl esters (e.g., retinyl palmitate), which must be derived from the diet. Once formed, retinol is converted to retinoic acid, which when taken up by an epidermal basal cell stimulates its replication and differentiation. An absence of vitamin A in the diet has a deleterious effect on skin health, vision and other physiological functions.

At normal levels, vitamin A stimulates epidermal turnover and exfoliation, which leaves the skin smooth and reduces wrinkles, pigmentation, psoriasis, eczema and dehydration, while

VITAMINS GUIDE

optimizing protection of the skin given its antioxidant properties. By stimulating exfoliation, it helps lift and remove pigmented melanin granules to reduce brown spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation. It has been shown to decrease sebum production in the treatment of acne, and to boost blood flow to improve redness and rosacea.

This multi-purpose vitamin plays a key role in cellular turnover, differentiation and growth regulation.

B

VITAMIN B The B-complex vitamins make up a group of eight vitamins: thiamine (B1), riboflavin (B2), niacin (B3), pantothenic acid (B5), pyridoxine (B6), cyanocobalamin (B12), folic acid and biotin. B3 and B5 are the most critical for the skin via topical delivery. A deficiency in any one of these vitamins can manifest itself in dry skin, mouth and lips, chapped skin and sometimes sores. Since vitamin B is hydrophilic and is not stored in the body, it must be replenished via dietary intake.

Vitamin B3, niacin or nicotinic acid, can also exist as an amide known as nicotinamide. Both forms are hydrolyzed by the body. Niacin is used to make hormones and stimulate cellular metabolism. It has been shown to improve circulation and suppress inflammation in the skin, and is helpful for acne, rosacea and aging.

Vitamin B5, pantothenic acid, is needed by the body to produce Coenzyme A (CoA), which is required by at least 70 enzymes to function properly. In the skin, pantothenic acid is derived from panthenol through an enzymatic process and utilizes it as needed.

A great hydrator, vitamin B5 is highly effective for moisturizing and wound healing. It is recommended for all skin types including dry and sensitive, rosacea and skin prone to breakouts or hyperpigmentation due to inflammatory processes.

C

VITAMIN C Vitamin C, also known by its chemical name “ascorbic acid,” is a catalyst for many biochemical reactions in the body. It is vital to the production of collagen found in the bones, fibrous and connective tissue, capillaries and the skin. Nutritional deficiency of vitamin C can lead to scurvy, which can disrupt wound healing and cause joint pain and muscle loss.

In the skin, collagen is manufactured in the dermis by the fibroblast cell. Vitamin C is a co-factor in the final biosynthesis of collagen fibers in the dermis, and also helps stimulate the synthesis of the enzymes needed to produce new collagen. Just as importantly, vitamin C has been shown to inhibit the enzymes responsible for breaking down collagen. As skin ages, the production of new collagen slows, becomes more disorganized and is susceptible to degradation by collagenase enzymes that are responsible for breaking down collagen. Exposure to UV radiation further accentuates these intrinsic aging processes. With the reduction in new collagen and collagen organization, skin loses a key component of its scaffolding and bulk.

Vitamin C or its analogs (ascorbyl palmitate and acetate) are vital in a daily skin care regimen to control all signs of aging including wrinkles, lost elasticity, hydration, firmness and hyperpigmentation and to provide photo protection.

In addition to its role in collagen biosynthesis, vitamin C reduces skin pigment irregularities by inhibiting the function of the key enzyme tyrosinase involved in the synthesis of the pigment melanin in the epidermis. This key vitamin provides beneficial effects to the skin via both the stability and permeability of the molecule.

D

VITAMIN D Known as the “sunshine” vitamin, vitamin D is produced by the absorption of sunlight (specifically UVB) through the skin, converting a form of cholesterol to vitamin D in the epidermis. It is subsequently converted to 1, 25-dihydroxyvitamin D3, the more potent form of the vitamin. Inside the epidermis the 1, 25 vitamin D3 associates with epidermal receptor sites similar to those used by vitamin A, allowing it to regulate the production and proliferation of new epidermal cells. Its ability to inhibit the

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proliferation of skin cells may play a role in preventing the proliferation of cancerous skin cells.

Vitamin D has numerous other functions in the body, including regulating the absorption of calcium and phosphorus, making it critical to bone, muscle, thyroid and skin health. There are vitamin D receptors in skin as well as on cells in the immune systems. When vitamin D binds to the skin receptors, it increases the amount of good microbes, which help fight off the bad microbes — thereby providing antibacterial protection to the skin.

When vitamin D binds to the receptors of the immune system, it reduces the levels of cytokines, proteins that typically become elevated during an inflammation process. Studies have found that vitamin D reduces the inflammation and irritation associated with psoriasis, and that low levels of vitamin D are associated with eczema.

Aging decreases the skin’s ability to produce vitamin D, so it is imperative to supplement vitamin D intake.

E

VITAMIN E Vitamin E is a powerful lipophilic antioxidant, which prevents oxidative damage to cellular membranes and other cellular bodies. Vitamin E is an excellent topical protectant against photo damage as it can absorb ultraviolet (UV) light. This makes it a powerful vitamin to fight skin aging and hyperpigmentation. As an antioxidant vitamin E neutralizes reactive oxygen species or “free radicals” by donating its own electron to stabilize and “neutralize” free radical species. In turn, it has the capacity to replenish its donated electron from other vitamins. It has a unique synergy with other antioxidants, such as the ascorbates (vitamin C), retinols (vitamin A) and coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinol).

All skin types can benefit from a combination of vitamin C and E topicals.

These should be in high concentrations of bio-available forms for maximum effectiveness.

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Vitamin E has been shown to mitigate inflammation by decreasing prostaglandin synthesis, interleukin production and induction of cyclooxygenase-2 oxidase. It has also been shown to reduce skin swelling, erythema and edema caused by UV induced inflammation.

K

VITAMIN K Vitamin K is the only vitamin that was named after its function — “Koagulation” — the German word for “coagulation,” rather than the alphabetical order in which it was discovered. Essential to the formation of blood clotting factors, vitamin K is also involved in bone, vessel and cellular health. Unlike other fat soluble vitamins, vitamin K is stored in the body

in very small quantities and must be supplemented nutritionally.

Vitamin K’s contribution to skin care is a reduction of spider veins, enlarged capillaries just below the surface of the skin, and discoloration under the eyes.

Spider veins are believed to be the result of the micro-vessels under the skin weakening, whereas discoloration is thought to result in micro-seepage of blood from surface capillaries. Vitamin K is believed to strengthen the vessels, preventing both spider veins and reducing the vessel permeability and leakage.

VITAMIN P Vitamin P is a bioflavonoid, originally discovered during the first isolation of vitamin C. Given the letter “P” due to

VITAMINS GUIDE their ability to reduce capillary permeability by strengthening them, vitamin P is a large family of polyphenolic plant compounds. Flavonoids are subdivided into flavones, flavonols, isoflavones and flavones, each with a slightly different chemical structure. The major subclasses of flavonoids include anthocyanidins, flavan-3-ols, flavanols, flavannes and isoflavones. These are derived from plant sources like fruits and vegetables. Due to their activity on capillaries, they have proven effective at reducing spider veins, which are due in part to the degradation of these micro-vessels.

Solubility

Vitamin A

Fat, Oil

Age Acne Pigment Rosacea Psoriasis Eczema

Vitamin B3 (Niacin)

Water

Inflammation Hydration

Vitamin B5 (Panthothenic Acid)

Water

Inflammation Hydration

Vitamin C

Water

Collagen Skin Lightening Antioxidant

Vitamin D

Oil

Acne Psoriasis Eczema Sensitive Healing Anti-Inflammatory Soothing

Vitamin E

Oil

Age Hyper-pigmentation Acne Rosacea Sensitive Powerful Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory

Vitamin K

Oil

Spider Veins Undereye Dark Circles

Vitamin P

Mostly Water

SUMMARY Good health requires a diet and topical routine rich in vitamins.

Vitamins have powerful effects on a wide range of tissues, including skin and other connective tissues core to the nervous, vascular and skeletal systems.

Maintaining a base level of vitamins prevents diseases, and also slows natural or intrinsic aging processes, particularly given their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Vitamins are critical in repairing the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging on skin. Due to their chemical structure and permeability, continuous delivery is important to maintain UV and free radical protection.

The preventive and corrective value of vitamins makes them essential to a complete topical skin care regimen for all ages and skin types. The key to these beneficial results requires daily use at the correct dose in a stable delivery system that can incrementally be increased with age. So encourage your clients to eat for health and never neglect their daily topical vitamins!

Bio-Target

Antioxidant Anti-Inflammatory

Works Cited

Ruta Ganceviciene, Aikaterini I. Liakou, Athanasios Theodoridis, Evgenia Makrantonaki and Christos C. Zouboulis. “Skin Anti-Aging Strategies.” Dermato-Endocrinology. 2012 Jul 1; 4(3): 308–319.

Victoria J. Drake, Ph.D., “Vitamin D and Skin Health.” Oregon State University Linus Pauling Institute Micronutrient Center. November 2011.

Gül C. Zone is the CEO and founder of Ecozone, Inc. and Dermaware®. She is a biochemist who has contributed to the development of several international skin care lines. Zone leads educational seminars that focus on the importance of honesty and scientific facts to empower the esthetic community while raising the bar of knowledge in our industry to a higher level.

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SUPERFOOD

SPA

treatments Vitamin-rich ingredients to nourish your clients’ skin

by Carrie Borzillo Nourishing the body with superfoods isn't enough to get that healthy glow. These days, spas are adding more treatments featuring various superfoods at the star ingredient to help their clients get the most healthy, glowing, radiant skin and hair they can.

"Companies and clients are gravitating more toward nourishing the skin with superfoods,” says Elizabeth Adam, Doctor of Naprapathy and owner of Elizabeth Adam Salon and Day Spa in Chicago, Ill. “Loading one's skin up with vitamins, amino acids or peptides, the building blocks of proteins, minerals and antioxidants, is an important part of skin care and superfoods are a great way to apply nourishment to the skin."

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VITAMINS GUIDE

Taylor Fields, director of spa operations at the Renaissance Ross Bridge Golf Resort & Spa in Birmingham, Ala., adds, "When applied topically, superfoods take a completely different approach and produce different results than simply ingesting the superfoods."

Seaberry Superfruit

Vitamin C is a key component to helping the skin boost collagen production .

The seaberry — a small, but powerful superfruit found in Russia and parts of Asia — might not be a household name yet in the world of superfoods, but it actually contains five times more vitamin C than an orange, three times more vitamin A than carrots, and nearly as much vitamin E as wheat germ.

In fact, it features more than 190 bioactive compounds, including the essential fatty acids omegas 3, 6, 7, and 9; 14 essential vitamins (including vitamins A, C, E, B1, B2, D, K and P), the antioxidant superoxide dismutase, which is an important enzyme for helping prevent free radical damage, as well as lysine and serine, which help strengthen the hair, and phytosterols, which moisturize the scalp and soften the hair to reduce static and banish flyaways.

"These potent anti-agers naturally protect, nourish, heal and hydrate the scalp at the cellular level to build stronger, healthier, shinier hair starting with the very first use. They leave the hair manageable, soft, shiny and luxuriously beautiful," says Adam, who offers the Seaberry Superfruit Scalp and Hair Treatment (30 minutes, $75) at Elizabeth Adam Salon and Day Spa.

Guava Guava, a tropical fruit grown mainly in Mexico, Central America and South America, is chock full of essential vitamins (A, B, C and K) and the antioxidant lycopene. Similar to the seaberry, guava's vitamin C content is four times more than that of oranges. Vitamin C is a key component to helping the skin boost collagen production.

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The Anti-Aging Guava Manicure/ Pedicure (50 minutes, $60) at The Spa at Ponte Vedra Inn & Club in Ponte Vedra Beach, Fla., begins with soaking the hands and/or feet in a milk bath full of pure coconut milk and exotic oils to soften and hydrate the skin. The skin is then exfoliated with a natural raw cane sugar rub, followed by a vitamin C-rich guava body butter masque to nourish.

Of course, the treatment is finished with a fresh coat of polish.

"When you think of anti-aging you think of face, but your hands are the true teller of the signs of aging,” says spa director Melissa Deese. “Most people are worried about getting sun damage or wrinkles on their face, but they forget their hands can also get sun damage and wrinkles. The vitamin C-rich guava in this treatment helps generate collagen, while the vitamin K improves the skin tone, and the lycopene content helps with anti-aging by reducing wrinkles and smoothing the skin."

Blueberry & Turmeric Blueberries and turmeric make a powerful pairing for skin brightening that helps clients with brown spots, sunspots, discoloration and even excessive freckles, and is one of the more popular offerings on The Beauty Infusion Facial menu at the Renaissance Ross Bridge Golf Resort & Spa in Birmingham, Ala. "Turmeric is an antioxidant, an antiinflammatory and antiseptic. The brightening effect is caused by curcumin, which is the primary pharmacological

agent in turmeric. Curcumin works to block the activation of proteins that increase melanin," says Fields.

Like turmeric, when used topically, blueberries fade spots and discoloration on the body, counteract the appearance of aging, and help reduce breakouts and acne.

Quinoa & Avocado Another superfood Beauty Infusion that the Renaissance Ross Bridge Golf Resort & Spa offers is Quinoa & Avocado for Hydration. It helps to smooth fine lines as well.

"Avocados are high in mono-unsaturated fats, dietary fiber, vitamins and minerals, and benefit the skin by enhancing collagen generation, hydration, and treating eczema and psoriasis," says Fields.

As for quinoa, topical application can help skin by providing elasticity, softness and resiliency. "Packed with protein, vitamin A, calcium and essential amino acids, quinoa also provides collagen to reduce wrinkles and keep skin soft, smooth and supple," adds Fields.

Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@gmail.com.

A

Healthy Skin

A, B, C’s

B

C

AGE

BEAUTY

COLLAGEN & COLOR

Stimulate new epidermal cells, provide anti-oxidant protection,

Deep hydration to plump skin, ffill lines, reduce

Activate collagen to firm & lift skin, prevent sun damage,

improve skin color & control sebum, breakouts.

inflammation to control sensitivity.

reduce hyperpigmentation and improve skin color.

E

D

K

P

HEAL

PROTECT

REDNESS

POLYPHENOLS

Anti-inflammatory to reduce irritation, improve skin recovery and cellular proliferation of new cells.

Potent anti-oxidant prevents UV cell damage while reducing inflammation and redness.

Strengthens blood

Powerful plant anti-oxidants that have the unique ability to both correct & prevent skin damage and aging.

vessels, reducing broken capillaries, improved dark circles and redness.

Dermaware® Founder &Brighten Biochemist Gül Zone Illuminating & Lighten Boost Circulation Protect & Improve See my Article July 2017 Issue Les Nouvelles Pigment ControlMagazine Primer Internal Glow Skin Color External Glow

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JUICE MY SPA! Vitamin-based recipes for a nutritional beauty boost

by Erik Lieux These are exciting times for the skin care industry, as so many revolutionary tools and advanced procedures that greatly enhance skin health are coming onto the scene. While the majority of these treatments are effective topical modalities, holistic skin care professionals are increasingly interested in offering clients options that provide radiance from the inside out. This is an essential component to a complete skin care regimen, as one’s cells need to be well nourished in order to regain and maintain their optimum function for sustained radiance. This primarily happens with the consumption of foods rich in nutrients, phytonutrients, amino acids, minerals and vitamins.

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VITAMINS GUIDE

Vitamins are organic compounds that are needed in small quantities to keep cells healthy. Each vitamin has a distinct impact on skin health. The recipes shared in this article represent each key vitamin necessary for healthy skin. Serving these delicious delights to your clients is a great way to enhance their overall treatment experience at your spa, and a memorable way to educate your clients on how nutrition supports the goals of their treatments.

These simple recipes can be made right in the spa and served as a complimentary component of topical treatments featuring the same vitamin, or offered as an optional add-on for a suggested price of $10. Another option is to partner with a local smoothie/juice bar that has similar formulas, or arrange for them to make these specific blends exclusively for your clients.

Vitamin A

Vitamin B

Vitamin B2

• Chemical name: Retinol and four carotenoids (including beta carotene).

• Fat soluble.

• Skin benefit: Encourages healthy skin cell production. Vitamin A also stimulates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for developing tissue that keeps skin firm and healthy in the deep layers of skin.

• Good sources include carrots, broccoli, liver, cod liver oil, sweet potato, butter, kale, spinach, pumpkin, collard greens, some cheeses, eggs, apricot, cantaloupe and organic dairy.

• Chemical name: Thiamine.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Supports healthy skin, hair and nail growth.

• Good sources include yeast, cereal grains, sunflower seeds, brown rice, whole grain rye, asparagus, cooked kale, cauliflower, potatoes, oranges, liver and eggs.

• Chemical name: Riboflavin.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Involved in secretion of mucus that keeps the skin moistened, helpful for preventing conditions like eczema and dermatitis.

• Good sources include asparagus, bananas, persimmons, okra, chard, cottage cheese, organic milk, yogurt, meat, eggs, fish and green beans.

Juice Recipe: 1 red bell pepper, seeded and rinsed 4 - 6 carrots, peeled and rinsed 2 cups spinach, rinsed 1 tomato, rinsed 1 piece ginger Blend in a juicer and serve chilled.

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Smoothie Recipe: 4 - 6 oz. spring water 4 - 8 oz. orange juice 1 - 2 cups kale, rinsed 1 Tbsp nutritional yeast ½ cup ice cubes Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste Blend and serve chilled, with a side snack of sunflower seeds.

Smoothie Recipe: 8 oz. spring water 4 - 8 oz. plain yogurt 1 banana 1 persimmon ½ cup ice cubes 1 - 2 leaves of chard, rinsed Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste Blend and serve chilled.

VITAMINS GUIDE

Vitamin B3

Vitamin B6

Vitamin B9

• Chemical names: Niacin, niacinamide.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Can improve skin’s elasticity, enhance its barrier function, help erase discolorations and revive skin’s healthy tone and texture.

• Good sources include liver, heart, kidney, chicken, beef, tuna, salmon, milk, eggs, avocados, dates, tomatoes, leafy vegetables, broccoli, carrots, sweet potatoes, asparagus, nuts, whole grains, legumes, mushrooms and nutritional yeast.

• Chemical name: Pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Prevents production of excess sebum and skin clearing properties.

• Good sources include meats, bananas, whole grains, vegetables and nuts.

• Chemical names: Folic acid, folinic acid.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Increases red blood cell production and has skin firming properties.

• Good sources include leafy vegetables, legumes, liver, baker's yeast, some fortified grain products, sunflower seeds and citrus fruits.

Smoothie Recipe: 8 -12 oz. spring water 4 - 6 dates (pitted) ½ avocado 1 Tbsp. nutritional yeast ½-1 tsp. powdered reishi mushroom ½ cup ice cubes Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste Blend and serve chilled.

Vitamin B5 • Chemical name: Pantothenic acid.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Has natural broad abilities to moisturize, soothe, heal and regenerate the skin.

• Good sources include meats, unmilled whole grains, broccoli, spinach, avocados and royal jelly.

Smoothie Recipe: 8 -12 oz. spring water ½ avocado ½ cup blueberries, rinsed ¼-½ tsp. royal jelly ½ cup ice cubes Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste

Smoothie Recipe: 8 oz. spring water 1 ripe mango, peeled and pitted 1 large ripe banana, peeled 1 cup kale, rinsed 1 cup fresh, Italian parsley (or curly parsley) ¼ - ½ cup dandelion greens ½ cup ice cubes Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste

Smoothie Recipe: 8 -12 oz. spring water 2 - 4 oz. orange juice 1 - 2 cups spinach, rinsed ¼ - ½ cup blackberries, rinsed ½ cup guava ½ cup ice cubes Blend ingredients and serve chilled.

Blend and serve chilled.

Always ask your clients about specific food allergies and intolerances before serving any of these recipes.

Use organic ingredients whenever possible.

Vitamin B7 • Chemical name: Biotin.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Keeps skin and nails looking healthy, and even restores hair loss.

• Good sources include egg yolk, grapefruit, sesame seeds, liver and some vegetables.

Juice Recipe: 1- 2 whole grapefruits, peeled 2 - 4 romaine lettuce leaves, rinsed 1- 1½ cup cherries, pitted and rinsed Juice ingredients and serve chilled.

Blend and serve chilled.

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VITAMINS GUIDE

Vitamin B12

Vitamin D

Vitamin K

• Chemical names: Cyanocobalamin, hydroxocobalamin, methylcobalamin.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Plays a major part in cell reproduction, and reduces redness, dryness, inflammation and blemishes.

• Good sources include sea vegetables, spirulina, fish, shellfish, meat, poultry, eggs, milk and dairy products, as well as some fortified cereals, soy products and nutritional yeast. *Vegans are advised to take B12 supplements.

• Chemical names: Ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol.

• Fat soluble.

• Skin benefits: Helps minimize acne, boost elasticity, stimulate collagen production, enhance radiance, lessen lines and the appearance of dark spots.

• Good sources include fatty fish, eggs, beef liver and mushrooms. Vitamin D is also produced in the skin after exposure to UVB light from the sun or artificial sources.

• Chemical names: Phylloquinone, menaquinones.

• Fat soluble.

• Skin benefit: Helps the body heal wounds, bruises and areas affected by surgery.

• Good sources include leafy green vegetables, avocado, kiwi fruit and parsley.

Smoothie Recipe: Smoothie Recipe: 8 -12 oz. spring water or almond milk (skip milk if client has nut allergy) 2 cups spinach, rinsed ½ tsp. spirulina 2 cups ice cubes Add monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste.

Blend and serve chilled.

Vitamin C: • Chemical names: Ascorbic acid.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Promotes collagen synthesis, lessens lines, helps prevent and treat ultraviolet (UV) induced skin damage, acts as a powerhouse antioxidant.

• Good sources include many fruits and vegetables.

Juice Recipe: 4 - 6 oz. spring water or almond milk (omit milk if client has nut allergy) 4 - 6 oz. fresh orange juice (not from concentrate) 3 carrots, peeled and rinsed ¼ lemon, peeled 1 tsp. camu camu powder ½-1 tsp. schizandra berry Blend water, orange juice, carrots and lemon. Stir in camu camu powder and schizandra berry. Serve chilled.

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4 oz. low fat plain yogurt (can be omitted for dairy free clients) 2 cups pineapple, peeled and cubed 1 stalk celery, rinsed 2 cups spinach, rinsed 2 cups ice cubes Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste Wash ingredients, blend and serve chilled.

Smoothie Recipe: 6 oz. spring water 2 kiwis, chopped ½ avocado ½ cup parsley, chopped 2 cups spinach, rinsed 1 cup dandelion greens 1 cup ice cubes Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste Blend and serve chilled.

VITAMINS GUIDE

Vitamin E • Chemical names: Tocopherols, tocotrienols.

• Fat soluble.

• Skin benefit: Fights free radicals, reduces wrinkles, lessens discoloration and delivers antioxidant power to keep skin youthful and vibrant.

• Good sources include kiwi fruit, almonds, avocado, eggs, milk, nuts, leafy green vegetables, unheated vegetable oils, wheat germ and whole grains.

Vitamin P

Smoothie Recipe:

Smoothie Recipe:

6 oz. spring water or almond milk (skip milk if client has nut allergy) 2 kiwis, peeled and chopped ½ avocado 2 cups spinach, rinsed 1 Tbsp. medium-chain triglyceride oil 2 cups ice cubes Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste

1 cup strawberries ½ cup blackberries 1 cup red cherries, pitted 2 - 3 Tbsp. cacao powder ¼ tsp. oregano 1 cup ice cubes Monk fruit or other low glycemic sweetener to taste

Blend and serve chilled.

• Chemical names: Flavonoids, bioflavonoids.

• Water soluble.

• Skin benefit: Reduces oxidative stress and free radical damage.

• Good sources include blackberries, blueberries, gooseberries, black currants, oranges, strawberries, chocolate, capsicum, green and black tea.

Erik Lieux has a Masters Degree in Mental Health Counseling and an intense passion for health and wellness that allows him to continue to expand the vision of a new paradigm in healthy living. This is most acutely reflected in his beverage line, Shamanic Tonic, which infuses many of the superfoods and super herbs he is so passionate about.

To learn more or to keep in touch, visit shamanictonic.com.

Rinse berries and cherries, blend all ingredients and serve chilled.

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INTRAVENOUS

therapy

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Why IV therapy in the spa is the next beauty frontier

by Kristina Mazzenga

W

hat used to be a service performed solely in hospitals is now part of a beauty phenomenon! Intravenous (IV) therapy has been popping up in spas all over the country as a technique to help clients with jet lag, vitamin deficiencies, anti-aging and overall health and wellness. Inspiration struck Jonathon Myers, M.D., Baltimore internist and physician, when he decided to mix key vitamins and minerals into a “cocktail” of sorts, founding the pioneer of IV therapy, the “Myers Cocktail.” Since this innovation, the advancements of IV therapy have not only become available to the general public at various spas offering “cocktails,” “juices,” and “blends” of vitamins and minerals, but has also generated a beauty “boom” in the lifestyles of many celebrities such as Madonna, Cindy Crawford and Rihanna! In an age where basic relaxation is a luxury, IV infusions have become the next hottest craze in the wellness industry as an easy quick fix for overworked, overtired and over partied lives.

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VITAMINS GUIDE

How does IV therapy work?

The process of IV therapy involves delivering vitamins, minerals and other vital nutrients to the body directly into the cells. Always begin with a consultation, including a discussion of the client’s medical history. A medical intake form should be completed that addresses the client’s future health goals as well as any current medications, allergies or complications they may be experiencing.

Advise your clients to drink PLENTY of water the day before and the day of their treatment! Clients should also maintain their regular diet prior to and following IV therapy.

To begin the treatment, a small catheter is temporarily placed into a vein, which allows the nutrients to then be dripped slowly into the bloodstream over a period of approximately 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the nutrients. This approach makes it possible to safely deliver large doses of nutrients carefully into a vein that would otherwise not be tolerated if taken orally. Vitamins, minerals, amino acids and certain other nutrients have an incredibly potent drug-like effect when received directly into a vein, but without the side effects of many prescription medications.

Why “IV?” Different combinations of vitamin and mineral drips work together to help to both enhance health and aid recovery with several unique benefits. Amongst a wide variety of clientele, here are some of the most common benefits that clients can experience during “the drip.”

• Increased energy • Increased hydration • Overall sense of well-being • Improved athletic performance • Improved healing and recovery from sports “wear and tear” and surgical procedures • Enhanced immune system support 64

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• Hangover recovery • Stress relief • Weight loss and increased metabolism • Improved appearance of hair, skin and nails IV therapy results last approximately one week and the number of treatments required varies depending on the client’s body as well as the intention for the infusion. For example, a client suffering from jetlag, illness or sports injury may come in as needed for an immune system boost, while those with the intention of lightening their skin or those seeking anti-aging results may require IV therapy twice a week for approximately 12 weeks in order to maintain benefits. Depending on the particular treatment as well as the volume of ingredients included, prices

for IV therapy can range anywhere from $95 to $260 per treatment.

IMPORTANT! Only a certified IV therapist or qualified nurse practitioner can administer IV therapy! Training and certification to become an IV therapist varies by location, although basic IV therapist certification requires the successful completion of an extensive IV training course and national licensing exam.

Why “IV” in Your Spa? IV therapy’s alignment with the mission of a spa is due to their harmonized attention on improving the overall health and well-being of each individual client.

Sabrina Hedin, IV infusion specialist at the Wycoff Wellness Center in Lansing,

VITAMINS GUIDE Mich., reports only positive feedback in regard to IV therapy sessions in her facility. “IV therapy is a mainstay for many of our clients who are seeking alternative ways to improve health and obtain wellness,” she explains. “With this therapy, we are able to better serve our clients’ needs in a healthy, safe and effective way!” Brian Sidella, president of Forever Young MedSpa in Cooper City, Fla., also mentions the incorporation of IV therapy in his spa, “We are evolving into not just an esthetics and skin care business, but into a community that offers incredible overall health and wellness services,” he says. “IV therapy is the most cutting-edge first step to take.”

Taking the initiative of adding IV therapy into your spa does more than set you apart from the competition; it allows you to offer your clients an opportunity to strengthen and recover their bodies in an unparalleled and groundbreaking way. Consider implementing the following into your spa to get started: • A comfortable space available for the infusions (large enough to accommodate a comfortable recliner) • A fume hood in a separate room for compounding IV cocktails • Full emergency kit including AED, an oxygen tank and emergency medications • IV bags • Storage areas for biomedical waste and IV equipment • Television • Soft music • Complimentary snacks and beverages Hilary Chambers, licensed and registered naturopathic doctor and IV practitioner at Darou Wellness in Toronto, Canada, mentions the benefits her clients have reported, “My clients often report a huge boost in energy! They have come to me saying they are better able to handle their stress and their overall mood has improved.” Similarly, Marni Blickman, VitaSquad enthusiast in Miami Beach, Fla., states, “My clients

Adding IV therapy into your spa allows you to offer your clients an opportunity to strengthen and recover their bodies in an unparalleled and groundbreaking way. not only feel healthier and more energized post-treatment, but they have reported improvement of the appearance of their skin tone, hair and nails!”

IMPORTANT! Offering a medical procedure such as IV therapy in your spa requires a medical doctor license and certification.

Partnering with an IV therapist Finding the right IV therapist to administer infusions in your facility is the next step! Not only does an IV therapist need to have the technical skills to perform procedures safely, but they must also have strong interpersonal skills to help minimize the client’s anxieties and concerns relating to this therapy.

Finding an IV therapist to work in your spa is as simple as searching a credible job search website. Have your potential IV therapist or nurse practitioner institute the procedure on you first to ensure that client comfort and a safe procedure is executed.

Depending on how you plan to administer IV therapy in your spa, whether you include massage recliners, patient beds, specific ingredients, entertainment, etc., the cost can range from several thousand to more than $10,000, with profits attained after approximately six months. An IV therapist or nurse practitioner, in this case, is salary based.

Tips should not be accepted for this

particular treatment, as it is a medical procedure.

Contraindications There are very few contraindications to IV therapy. As long as a client discloses their health history, current medications and an appropriate lab testing and physical exam are done, IV therapy is safe. Clients with kidney conditions, any serious disorders or those undergoing any type of chemotherapy are not at risk with IV therapy. However the therapy is targeted toward clients who are well overall, and simply in need of a boost due to muscle fatigue, cold and flu symptoms or hangovers. Do not administer IV therapy if there is any inflammation or infection at the insertion location or if the client may have allergies to any of the nutrients being infused. IV therapy is safe during both pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Potential side effects include discomfort at the site of insertion, inflammation of the vein, flushing, nausea, joint pain or headaches.

Kristina Mazzenga received her bachelor's degree in Social Media Marketing and Broadcasting from Saint Vincent College in Latrobe, Penn. Her computer and cell phone are attached to her hip as she is obsessed with spreading the word! Her passion became her profession. She is now the Editorial Assistant and Social Media Partner for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine.

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ULTIMATE

THE

vitamin products...

4

2

3

5

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7 1. CARA Cosmetics, Magi-C Serum

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2. Dr. Jeff, ACE Plus Serum

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7. Sanitas Skincare, Vita

3. Skinade, Liquid Skin Care Supplement 4. Sonage, High Impact Vitamin C Serum

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Sun Damage Repair Cream bionresearch.com

C Illuminating Serum sanitas-skincare.com

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8. Skin Script, Vitamin C/Green Tea Serum 9. Nature Pure Labs, Herbal C Nourisher naturepure.com

to make your clients' skin glow!

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10. RepĂŞchage, C-Serum Seaweed Filtrate

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11. Hale Cosmeceuticals, Enhance A.C.E. Treatment

16. Environ, Vita-Peptide C-Quence Serum

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18. G.M. Collin, Vital C 10% + Peptides Serum gmcollin.com LNEonline.com

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All the

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1

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8 5. Healing Zone Aesthetics,

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7. ilike Organic Skin Care, Age

3. Osmosis Skincare, Catalyst AC-11 DNA Repair Serum osmosisskincare.com

4. Rhonda Allison, SynErgy A Reconstructing Retinal Complex rhondaallison.com

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Younger Me Total Body Health AntiInflammatory Immune Support healingzone.net

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to win over youth 12

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11

13

17 14 15

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14. Advanced Nutrition Programme, 10. Orgaid, Organic Sheet Mask,

Skin Accumax Vitamins and Nutrients Supplement advancednutritionprogramme.com

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C SĂŠrum and Activating Crystals malibuc.com

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Extreme Lifting Complex Facial Cream dermatude.com

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THE

MOVEMENT ARE YOU PART OF IT?

by

Dori Soukup

T

HE WELLNESS MOVEMENT IS ON! More than $3.72 trillion was generated in wellness globally in 2015. The Global Wellness Report indicated this amount was spent on: beauty and anti-aging, complementary and alternative medicine, preventative personalized medicine, fitness, healthy eating, weight loss and wellness lifestyles.

More and more entrepreneurs are seeking to enter the wellness market, and physicians are leading the way in opening wellness centers and medi spas. The reason behind the wellness movement is that consumers are demanding preventative care.

They no longer want to wait until they are already sick to take action — they want to address potential illnesses and common ailments before they occur. People are seeking healthier lifestyles, healthy aging solutions and holistic approaches to being well. The spa industry helps fulfill this demand by discovering how to introduce wellness programs into spas and medi spas. This is an opportunity to both help members of your community and to generate new revenue streams for your business.

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o&w the wellness movement

HOW WELLNESS EVOLVED The concept of “wellness” dates back to the 1950s, when physician Halbert L. Dunn, M.D., introduced it in a series of lectures. The lectures provided the basis for his book, “High Level Wellness,” published in 1961. In the 1970s, Dr. John W. Travis, Don Ardell and Dr. Bill Hettler, known as the “fathers of the wellness movement,” created their own comprehensive definitions and models of wellness, developed new wellness assessment tools, wrote about and spoke actively on the concept of wellness. They were responsible for creating the world’s first wellness center, developing the first university campus wellness center and establishing the National Wellness Institute and National Wellness Conference in the United States. Since these origins, the wellness industry has evolved, changed and grown exponentially, as consumers and companies demand effective wellness programs.

The following concepts include some of the most popular wellness programs offered today in wellness centers, medi spas, day spas and physicians’ offices.

1

Alternative Medicine Approximately 25 percent of all prescriptions written in the United States every year are for stress controlling drugs such as tranquillizers, anti-depres-

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sants and anti-anxiety medications. Six leading causes of death — cancer, heart disease, lung ailments, suicide, accidents and liver disease — have been linked to stress. Stress costs American industry more than $300 billion annually, and one recent study determined that stress costs companies $7,500 per employee per year.

Stress may be addressed with alternative medicine, which is any form of practice outside the realm of conventional modern medicine. It covers a broad range of healing philosophies, approaches and therapies such as:  Chiropractic medicine  Massage  Herbalism  Traditional Chinese Medicine  Ayurveda  Meditation  Yoga  Hypnosis  Homeopathy  Acupuncture  Nutrition-based therapies

2

Anti-aging Wellness A large portion of the modern population is made up of baby boomers that refuse to age. They want to look and feel great forever. Many medi-spas are offering a wide range of programs to help these individuals maintain a healthier lifestyle and age well. Now people even have the new option to live in well-

ness communities. One such example is Serenbe, a community outside Atlanta, Ga., which has been designed from the ground up, with well-being driving every decision — creating a new kind of community with sustainability, green building, organic farming, culture, arts and fitness at its core.

Delos Living is another such organization, leading with its WELL Building Standard, a building standard that focuses on seven “wellness” aspects (air, water, nourishment, light, fitness, comfort and mind) and is being embraced by the mainstream medical community. Delos has teamed with the Mayo Clinic on a WELL Living Lab, whose research focuses on the interaction between health, wellness and the building environment.

3

Workplace Wellness Many corporations are now offering employee wellness programs, and the number is growing all the time. According to Dr. Christopher Breuleux, CEO of the Medical Wellness Association, these programs focus on addressing six areas of wellness: physical, mental, spiritual, emotional, social and environmental.

Key components of a good corporate wellness program includes a health assessment, an exercise facility, wellness amenities such as saunas, steam rooms and halo therapy, as well as complimentary services such as cryotherapy,

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o&w the wellness movement massage, energy healing and yoga.

Other aspects that should be included in an ideal corporate program include nutritional education, stress management and mental wellness.

4

Wellness Lifestyle Products Consumers are also buying more wellness products for themselves. So it is essential that spas, wellness centers and medi-spas not only offer these products but also educate consumers on how to use them in order to maximize their treatment effects and maintain results between spa sessions. Home care products such as the following are key to a complete treatment regimen.  Supplements  Essential Oils  Massage tools  Neck wraps, heating packs  Skin care products  Bath and shower products

WHY OFFER WELLNESS PROGRAMS?

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Eighty-one percent of consumers are “extremely” or “very interested” in improving their personal wellness. There is a need for it, and our industry has an obligation to create programs to help members of our communities. Offering wellness differentiates you from the less progressive competition, allows you to tap into new revenue streams and contributes to the wellness of society!

Ensure success by offering resultsdriven programs, publishing case studies and success stories about your clients, before and after pictures, etc.

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Seventy-one percent of consumers are more likely to visit a spa if studies indicate that their treatments deliver measurable health benefits. Social proof elevates success.

HOW TO GET STARTED 1 Survey your database to discover the type of programs consumers are interested in and the price point they are willing to pay for it. If you don’t have a database, get a focus group together for market research. Find out what is currently offered in your community and discover a void you can fulfill.

2 Develop your program and recruit a team that is certified to deliver your wellness programs.

3 Do online research of successful spas with wellness programs and get inspired by ideas from them.

Also, visit the Medical Wellness Association site for more information on Medical Wellness Education and certification programs.

FINAL THOUGHTS Do your homework before developing a great plan and executing it. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel.

There are many wellness models that have been proven effective. Reach out to the experts in this area for key insight on how to launch properly.

Don’t delay — get motivated and start your own wellness program today!

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.

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Stones IN THE SPA

by Carrie

Borzillo

A

s a way to connect clients to the Earth, spas are coming up with some inventive natural elements to integrate into their services. While the smooth, oval basalt stone is still most commonly used in hot stone massages, many spas are casting those stones aside in lieu of crystals, gem stones, jewels and more obscure rocks and stones. These are being used not only in massage services, but facial treatments as well.

Some say that the increased interest in crystals, in particular, could be tied to today's high-tech lifestyle. "While we are enjoying the benefits of technological advancements, there may be a part of us that craves a connection with natural elements. It could be the grounding properties and natural balance to counter where the technology may be pulling us," explains Maritsa Victorian, spa director at the Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley in East Palo Alto, Calif., which has had success with their Quartz Crystal Body Ritual (60 minutes, $190).

Here are five treatments using various stones that go far beyond the typical hot stone massage...

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o&w stones in the spa

Quartz Crystal Quartz crystal is a natural conduit that has the ability to transport energy and amplify healing, which is why it's being more widely used in body treatments and energy work at spas around the world today.

"While experts believe that there is more to be discovered to better connect all the dots between quartz crystals and healing, it is becoming widely accepted that vibrational energy can impact your physical body as well as your mental and spiritual health," says Victorian.

Victorian points to the wise words of Albert Einstein for further explanation: "Everything is energy and that's all there is to it. Match the frequency of the reality you want and you cannot help but get that reality. It can be no

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other way. This is not philosophy. This is physics."

The Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley's Quartz Crystal Body Ritual, which uses both clear quartz crystal and rainbow floret crystal, uses the electromagnetic energy of plant, flower and herb essences from the client's recommended energy bouquet, which is created with the therapist to help the client with various energy needs, such as adventure, balance, confidence, focus, grounding or imagination.

The treatment features an all-natural exfoliating body scrub with organic chia seed, jojoba and brown sugar that is infused with rainbow fluorite crystals for an added healing experience.

"A quantum body oil infused with quartz crystal is then massaged into the client's focus areas to enhance, cleanse, and balance the energy body, helping to illuminate your inner light. The service concludes with an organic wellness tea containing gem and flower elixirs, in your recommended energy bouquet to further extend the energy balancing experience," explains Victorian.

Rose Quartz Rose quartz (a pinkish stone) is known as the stone of love, peace and harmony, and is one of the most popular crystals used in spa treatments today.

The Rose Quartz Facial (45 minutes, $155) at Allegria Spa at Park Hyatt Beaver Creek in Avon, Colo., helps to restore the skin, stimulate circulation and promote cell renewal. The rose moisture formulas are crafted with rose extracts and rosehip oil, providing balance and hydration to the skin while calming the senses.

"Rose quartz is said to purify and open the heart at all levels to promote love, self-love, friendship, deep inner healing and feelings of peace. It is said to act as a strong magnifier of the heart. Crystal healing is a pseudo-

o&w stones in the spa scientific alternative medicine technique; however, it's believed that rose quartz can strengthen a weak heart and is said to help to improve circulation.

Emotionally, quartz stones are said to transform heavy, sorrowful energies into lighter energy," says spa director Gaye Steinke.

The Rose Quartz Facial begins by warming the rose quartz stones. The client takes a few deep breaths of rose essential oil, which is followed by a rose balancing mist. The face, neck and décolleté are cleaned with a rose cleanser. After the application of a rose cream mask and skin balancing oil mix is applied to the skin, the esthetician performs a facial massage using the warmed rose quartz stones.

"The stones we use to massage are smooth, oval shaped. The energy in the stone not only benefits the guest receiving the treatment, but also the esthetician receives the energy from the gemstone while in contact with it.

A moisture replenishing mask is then applied to the skin and a smooth heartshaped rose quartz stone is placed directly over the heart chakra for the duration of the facial," says Steinke.

finds around the resort. The sage repels bad energy and the sweet grass retains good energy," explains spa director Simon Marxer.

Black Obsidian Black obsidian stone is known for its ability to eliminate negativity, boost self control and confidence, help to eliminate selfish thoughts and intentions and have a grounding effect on one's body and spirit.

"This stone awakens the inner courage that is buried deep inside us and helps us to enter our subconscious mind and rediscover our hidden abilities. The energy of the black obsidian stone draws in negative energy thus protects the client and shields against negativity," explains Elizabeth Adam, a Doctor of Naprapathy and owner of Elizabeth Adam Salon and Day Spa in Chicago, Ill., which offers the Obsidian Stone Massage (90 minutes, $175).

The treatment begins with a foot soak in a rose petal footbath with natural minerals, including magnesium sul-

fate, to relax tired muscles. The massage therapist, who is trained by a Reiki master, places the obsidian stone on the naval area in order to help ground the spiritual energies within the body while the client lays in a supine position on a heated massage table receiving a relaxing scalp massage.

A massage of the face, neck, décolleté, back and shoulders follows, using both hot and chilled obsidian stones, as well as an application of obsidian stone on the third eye "that helps break through mental barriers, helps focus the emotionally scattered energies and bring emotional release," says Adam.

The treatment concludes with a foot massage with foot reflexology to reflex points that correspond to related parts of the body.

Chumpi Chumpi stones are white volcanic stones that have been carved by shamans in the Andes Mountains in South America. They're used in spa treatments to balance energy and enhance physical vitality and mental clarity.

Miraval Resort & Spa in Tucson, Ariz., uses these stones in their Pachamama Medicine treatment (80 minutes, $280; 100 minutes, $320), which is performed by a shaman and inspired by Incan shamanic traditions.

The word "pachamama" comes from the Quechua language and means "Mother Earth."

"The shaman harnesses Pachamama's bountiful energy through the chumpi stones to strengthen the mind-heart-body connection. During the treatment, the shaman burns bunches of sage and sweet grass, which she LNEonline.com

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o&w stones in the spa

Amethyst, Sapphire, & Aquamarine The Amethyst Spa at the Restoration Hotel in Charleston, S.C., uses a combination of amethyst, sapphire and aquamarine stones in their Signature Meridian Massage (50 minutes, $155/80 minutes, $205).

"This massage takes a Eastern balancing approach to massage using the amethyst stones applied to meridian points throughout the body for energy flow, clearing, balance and deep relaxation. It also uses the amethyst wands to perform reflexology on the hands and feet, hitting on different chakra points finished with a facial massage focusing on lymphs, and third and mental health line," says spa director Denialle LePiors.

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The massage also uses warm amethyst crystals with an anti-aging concentrate that is charged with sapphires and aquamarines, combined with a programmed amethyst elixir. "The guest experiences the physical matter of the stone combining the frequency or energy of the amethyst through the elixir for healing and balancing," adds LePiors.

Sabai MG's Grand Day Spa in Greer, S.C., uses the sabai stone in their MG's Sabai Stone Massage (60 minutes, $130/90 minutes, $190) for its shape, versatility and meaning (Sabai in Thai means longevity and well-being).

"This is more than just a stone massage. It's an advanced tri-phrase stone therapy that uses a synchronized therapeutic treatment with micronized minerals, malachite and zincite. It de-stresses your entire being — mind, body and spirit, explains co-owner Manisay Gabbard.."

The workmanship of these stones is unique in that they are designed to fit comfortably in the palm of the hand, which minimizes fatigue for our therapists. "And, because they are carved from black granite, they are very hard and therefore can be easily disinfected between uses to prevent any buildup of germs or bacteria," says Gabbard.

Another interesting property is granite's thermal properties. "They can be heated (or cooled) faster and they retain their temperature for longer periods of time. Long enough to last throughout a 90-minute treatment," she adds. ď Ž Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.

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Ultimate Detox

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Infuse hands and body with rich moisture and powerful anti-aging properties with this Culminé® Body Essence of Rose Silky Hand & Body Cream from Bella Schneider Beauty! Shea butter and olive oil soothe and quench thirsty skin; collagen, wheat protein and vitamins A and E soften, firm and protect against the elements. Skin is refreshed and delicately scented with the essence of roses!

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Hydration Boost

Clinically proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, ilike Organic Skin Care’s Hyaluronic Elixir is a deeply penetrating, oil free serum powered by sodium hyaluronate and a blend of anti-aging, plant based ingredients for radiantly hydrated skin. Skin tightening horsetail paired with moisturizing marshmallow visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Collagen boosting, antioxidant yucca flower rejuvenates skin while gingko soaks in easily to quench skin’s thirst.

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A Touch of Rose

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Making a luscious lash and brow statement with Cassidy Irby, Spa Manager of Drench Day Spa in Ridgeland, Miss.

SERVICE & RETAIL • What is the best part about working with lash and brow services in the spa industry?

I find my job to be extremely rewarding because I have the opportunity to empower women every day! It is a great feeling to have a client leave Drench knowing she made the right decision by coming to us. From cancer survivors to pageant queens and brides, helping our clients achieve a look they love makes every day a success!

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• When did you decide to implement lash and brow services into your menu?

Lashes and brows are something we have always done. They are the heart of our business!

• Which of your services is the most requested?

Our most popular service is definitely our lash extensions; the client retention is so high! Once women see themselves with fabulous lashes, they never want to go without them, which means they are eager to come back once a month to maintain them.

• What kind of lash and brow treatments do you offer?

Microblading, eyelash extensions and lash and brow styling.

MAKEUP AREA • Describe your lash and brow area.

Our lash and brow treatment rooms take up about 70 percent of the spa.

These services are what we are known for, so to accommodate the demand we have increased the overall size of this space over the years.

• How much space is dedicated to each different section of your spa?

We have about 600 sq. feet in retail space where we offer products to go along with each service we offer as well as our own exclusive lounge wear line and gift items. The remaining 2,000 sq. feet is dedicated to our spa services: five esthetics rooms, one massage room and one room designated for airbrush tanning.

• What prompted you to choose the size/design for each specific area?

Service demand. We have altered several spaces in our spa to follow our business trends and to make sure we are doing the most with every square foot.

• Do you tweak the area for specific events or promotions?

We don’t have to. We have a beautiful relaxation room that allows bridal parties, friend groups, etc., to lounge together in between services. This room is also used for employee training and demos. Between that area and the retail space we have, we can do a lot without changing anything major!

TEAM MEMBERS • How do you select your lash and brow artists?

We hold each employee we hire to a high standard to keep our reputation up and clients satisfied. All of our employees go through several trainings before they can take clients. My goal is to staff our business with employees who not only have the willingness to learn, but also strive to succeed beyond our expectations. We have trained estheticians straight out of school and retrained those who have been estheticians for years. Being personable and positive is also a must! My philosophy is, you can be the best lash and brow stylist in town, but you will never make a dime with a bad attitude!

• How do you keep members of your staff incentivized?

The better our staff performs, the higher our client retention is. We truly recognize that and reward our staff with higher commission. We allow each of our employees to be in control of their own personal business, which also encourages them to work harder.

INSIDER TIPS

MARKETING

• What trends are you currently seeing in the industry?

Fuller brows definitely made a comeback recently! With microblading, we are able to completely reshape brows or add brows where there are none and make them symmetrical. With lashes, the most natural looking application seems to be the most popular.

• How do you promote your lash and brow services?

Social media is our go-to for promoting our lash and brow services. We ask each of our employees to keep up their own business page on Facebook and Instagram, in addition to the spa’s page.

This allows clients to see everyone’s work before coming in, so they have an idea of what we offer and what they want out of their appointment. We regularly post before and after photos of clients, product information, specials, and of course a cute meme or two!

• How do you perform consultations?

We only require consultations for our microblading services. We require all potential clients to fill out an online form prior to their appointment to ensure they are healthy candidates for the service. We then set up a consultation to go over the procedure, risks, aftercare, and then prep their brows for microblading. The brow technician also takes “before” pictures and color matches the client’s brows in preparation for their appointment during their consultation.

• Are your estheticians trained to promote different services after each treatment?

Each employee is trained to sell product and add-on services whenever time allows. We don’t ever want to be the pushy sales people that clients dread.

More times than not, clients are inclined to ask for details on services or products when simple recommendations are made to suit their personal needs.

• What does your business do that makes it UNIQUE from the competition?

Competition isn’t really a thing for us. I encourage everyone to focus on being the best they can be and not concern themselves with other estheticians locally. I think customer satisfaction is the most important goal in any successful business and focusing on our business and clients alone is the best thing we can do as service providers.

• Please describe your methods of promotion.

Word of mouth is great for our business!

For this reason, we use social media and email marketing. We use email marketing solely to highlight new trends, services or products. By staying on trend and sharing that with our clients and followers, I believe they trust our services and recommendations. We love to reward our faithful clients with VIP cards for discounted services, giveaways and gifts with purchase.

• What advice would you pass along to other spa owners who are thinking about offering lash and brow services in their spa?

Educate yourself on each service as well as products that go along with them. Your work is only as good as your product. Make sure you know as much about every service you offer as possible, so that you can answer any questions clients ask.

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FACE SHAPE 101 T

he job of a beauty professional is to help clients look their personal best.

Accentuating each individual’s most flattering features by identifying their face shape, providing the best look for that shape and educating them with practical application techniques is the key to unlocking their unique “beauty code.”

It all starts with a face shape analysis.

All makeup artists begin with the same elements — eyes, cheeks and lips, however no two faces are exactly the same. Each face is unique, and a makeup artist’s role is to enhance a client’s natural beauty and individuality by focusing on certain traits, balancing their face shape while highlighting their most beautiful features.

by Jaclyn

Peresetsky

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image face shape 101

IDENTIFYING FACE SHAPE Identifying a client’s face shape is a simple relationship of proportions.

Faces can be oval, round, square, triangle, diamond or heart shaped (or a combination of several). Each shape has its own unique characteristics.

(Christina Ricci, Reese Witherspoon) Broad forehead, strong cheekbones and a small chin.

Oblong/ Rectangular

Diamond

(Scarlett Johansson) Highly angular with wide cheeks, tapering toward both the forehead and chin.

(Sarah Jessica Parker) Resembles a tall rectangle with rounded corners. It has a broad but even forehead, jaw and cheekbones.

Square

Inverted Triangle

Pear

(Jennifer Garner, Rachel McAdams) W ide at all points, with a broad forehead, strong cheekbones and an angular jaw.

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(Eva Longoria, Jessica Alba) Forehead is somewhat broad, with narrower cheekbones and a tapering jawline.

Heart

Round

(Charlize Theron, Kirsten Dunst) Resembles a circle, with wide cheekbones and a tapering jaw and forehead.

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Oval

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(Kerry Washington, Kim Kardashian) Cheekbones are wider than the chin and forehead.

(Kelly Osbourne, Minnie Driver) A broad jawline; the cheeks may be wider than the eye area and taper toward a narrow forehead.

image face shape 101

To identify your client’s face shape, start by taking the following key measurements:

1  Width of forehead 2 Width of cheekbones 3 Width of jawline 4 Length of face You will need the following materials: A large mirror for the client to view themselves. Hair clips or a headband to pull hair from the face. A cape or gown for client to wear to minimize distractions from their face.

Light (either daylight or professional makeup lights). Avoid overhead lights since these create more shadows on the face and make it hard to view its perimeter. A set of makeup brushes, eyeliners and lip liners.

Now follow the simple face mapping steps below:

1 Have your client look straight ahead at a mirror in a well-lit environment.

2 Instruct them not to smile during this analysis, as it can alter their face shape.

3 Using an eyeliner or lip liner, draw

a point at each corner of their forehead and in the center of the forehead (staying on the perimeter of the face).

4 Place a long makeup brush across the upper bridge of the nose and hold level. Then draw the points at the outer cheekbones (staying on the perimeter of the face).

5 Draw a dot at the widest points of the jaw, and at the point of the chin.

6 Connect the dots to verify the measurement that’s the widest or longest and confirm which shape the face most closely matches.

CUSTOMIZED BEAUTY Once you have identified your client’s face shape, you are ready to do a makeup application tailored to their features.

Square To help soften angular features, create a makeup look that’s soft, feminine and ethereal with shimmery textures. Apply blush onto the apples of cheeks, and a sheer gloss to lips to soften an angular jawline. Play up lashes with two coats of mascara for a feminine finish.

NOTE: Avoid strong eyeliners or lip colors for square faces, as they can create harsh lines.

Round Add definition to this face by trying an overall bronzy look accentuated by smoky eyes. Blend a deeper bronzer underneath cheekbones to add cut.

Sweep highlighter on top of cheekbones to add shape. Opt for angular shaped brows to downplay face roundness. Try lightly filling brows to add definition to the arch. Smoky eyes with strong liquid liners add definition to this face shape.

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image face shape 101

Oval To help cut the length of the face, apply a rosy or bronzy blush horizontally across the cheekbones; this further defines the eyes and lips. Next, blend a bronzer in an up-sweep motion under cheekbones from the apples of cheeks toward temples to create width. Line lips, then apply gloss

or lipstick to add definition to your chin. Apply a light, sheer eye shadow, blending to a medium shade at the crease.

Triangle To help balance the upside down triangle shape of the face, minimize width across the forehead and visually add width to the jawline. Apply bronzer to the corners of the widest part of the forehead to soften edges. Apply highlights to the chin, center of forehead, under eyes and bridge of the nose to add visual width. Apply a soft matte blush on apples of the cheeks, followed by a well-defined brow with a slight arch.

Apply a soft smoky eye and a neutral lip for softness.

Heart To draw focus away from a prominent chin and cheekbones, wear soft, feminine, sheer tones and add a pop of color to lips and cheeks. This pop downplays strong cheekbones. Play up the apples of cheeks with a matte blush. Avoid adding highlighting, sheen or glow on cheekbones, as that pronounces the already defined cheeks. Wearing soft feminine tones in a sheer finish on lips and cheeks help soften the heart shaped face.

Oblong To help the face appear slightly shorter and broader, use bronzer along the hairline, blending downward, then to the bottom of the chin and just under cheekbones, blending up toward the hairline. Apply blush to the apples of the cheeks. Play up eyes with cat eye makeup, bold eyeshadow colors and dramatic lashes; extend eyebrows outward toward temples.

Diamond To help soften the angularity of the face, apply bronzer to the outside of the cheekbones, tip of the chin and along the temples, blending toward the jawline. Apply blush to the ap-

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ples of the cheeks sweeping upward.

Define a natural brow line, avoiding a dramatic arch, and apply shimmery shadows with plenty of mascara to enhance eyes. Highlight under the cheeks and along the jawline, and add a natural creamy lip shade.

Pear To help soften the width of the lower half of the face, use a matte bronzer to contour the jawline. Apply blush along the cheekbones toward the temple. Highlight the bridge of the nose, the center of the forehead, under the eyes and over the cheekbones to make the face appear more centered. Accentuate eyes with smoky shadows and downplay lips with a neutral shade.

Bring additional business and traffic into your spa or salon by hosting an educational workshop about makeup application for face shapes. Encourage all your clients to come and bring their friends.

Clients love learning about their own unique attributes and how to best enhance them. Consider creating complimentary partnerships with other beauty experts, or vendors that can offer additional insights and products; this type of workshop is a great place to educate your clients on how to choose eyeglasses, hats and enhance their necklines with jewelry.

Educational workshops can serve as valuable tools to build your client loyalty and position you as an expert in your field.

Connection, analysis and education are vitally important in sustaining long-term relationships with clients and growing your business.

Date Monday, June 12, 2017 • 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Location

Date

Location Seattle, Washington

Miami, Florida

Monday, July 31, 2017 • 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Monday, June 19, 2017 • 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Chicago, Illinois

Monday, August 7, 2017 • 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Hartford, Connecticut

Monday, July 17, 2017 • 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Dallas, Texas

Monday, August 14, 2017 • 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Los Angeles, California

Monday, July 24, 2017 • 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Charlotte, North Carolina

Monday, August 21, 2017 • 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)

Syracuse, New York

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image face shape 101

the goal is to Create balance and enhance the center of the face.

COMBINATION FACE SHAPES Many people can be considered a “combination” face shape.

It is key to balance any face shape by highlighting areas you want to bring forward or appear larger, and contouring areas you want to recede or appear smaller. Apply these key makeup techniques for combination face shapes: Square jawline, with rounder forehead: The goal is to create balance and enhance the center of the face; contouring the square edges of the jaw line with bronzer, slightly bronzing the corners of the forehead to create a more oval shape, and highlighting under the eye, bridge of the nose, center of the forehead and center of the chin. Apply blush toward the nose to bring more focus to the center of the face.

Oval forehead with heart-shaped lower half of face: To balance this shape, broaden the chin by highlighting it to bring attention to the middle of the face. Highlight the center of the face and contour the cheeks and temples to make it appear narrower.

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Square forehead with diamond cheekbones and chin: This face shape has a lot of angles, so the goal is to soften these angles. Broaden chin by highlighting it and round the forehead by darkening the upper corners. Apply a light blush just under the cheekbone to draw attention away from the angularity and widen this part of the face. 

Jaclyn Peresetsky is the owner of Skin Perfect Spas in Ohio and Florida, as well as a noted color expert, makeup artist, master esthetician, author and speaker.

Her multiple books, cosmetic and skin care lines, and training courses allow other beauty pros to learn and add more services combining art and science to become leading beauty experts.

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100............ Altair Instruments................................................altairinstruments.com..................................................243 74.............. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.............beauinstitute.com........................................................167 10.............. Bella Schneider Beauty.......................................bellaschneiderbeauty.com.........................................180 43.............. Biomani Scientific Skincare................................biomaniskincare.com...................................................276 6,7............. Bio-Therapeutic..................................................bio-therapeutic.com....................................................139 16.............. Bio Jouvance......................................................biojouvance.com.........................................................140 37.............. 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Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics.......ladyburd.com..............................................................119 83.............. Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research...............lucrece.com................................................................263 21.............. RapidLash...........................................................rapidlash.com..............................................................224 95.............. Repêchage..........................................................repechage.com..........................................................196 97.............. Rejuvi Laboratory................................................rejuvilab.com...............................................................149 47.............. Rhonda Allison....................................................rhondaallison.com.......................................................190 11.............. Sesderma USA...................................................sesdermausa.com.......................................................319 73.............. Skinade® Bottled Science Inc............................skinade.com...............................................................325 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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“My Skin Feels So Soft and Beautiful, Thank You”

Altair Instruments designed and developed today’s most commonly practiced crystal free exfoliation technique.

We introduced the diamond tipped wand almost two decades ago, we’ve been copied but none can compare to our quality and expertise. #skingoals

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