LNE & Spa - July 2016

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals July 2016

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from the

editor

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It’s the middle of the summer, a special time to luxuriate in the long, sunny days, enjoy the outdoors and hope that the only rain that falls involves men — in the spa! Our IT’S RAINING MEN guide is your tool to capture the booming male market with your services. Discover who your male clients are, learn how to court them and avoid blunders in the treatment room. Find out how to design makeup services, both permanent and temporary, just for him!

Explore global recontouring facials for non-invasive face lift techniques and the effects of inflammation on skin.

As the summer heat rises and you greet your clients with a glass of iced tea to quench their thirst, consider adding Japanese green tea treatments to your menu to redefine the meaning of skin refreshment.

Help your clients chill out while raising their vibrations with gemstone treatments such as those found in Charleston’s Amethyst Spa. Get the inside scoop on healing with color therapy and the properties of carotenoids.

Learn the ins and outs of building your brand with blogging.

Also this month, learn what it takes for a spa to be considered the best of the best. Our annual LNE & SPA Award recognizes some of the best spas in the United States and beyond for their innovation and excellence.

Get the scoop on the 2016 winners in the categories of best day spa, wellness spa, medical spa, luxury spa and international spa, highlighting their most unique features and amazing treatments.

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As you continue to enjoy the warm temps and relaxed pace of life this summer, stay inspired and on the cuttingedge of the industry with the July edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa!

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com

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J U LY 20 16

V o lu m e 3 1

Number 7

CONTENTS SKIN

Effects of Inflammation on Skin 12 Knifeless Face Lift 20 Tea in Skin Care 28 Skin News 35 page 20

SPA

38 46

BUSINESS

Behind the Spa Door with Frank Garcia Connecting with Clients Passion Sparks Achievement Business News

IT'S RAINING MEN GUIDE

Man Made page 118

52 56

IMAGE

Business Advice for Beauty Experts with Fernanda Lacerda Man Made The Clean Zone Image News

58 60 66 70

Men in Spas 72 Men's Services 80 Designing a Male Spa Menu 88 Makeup Services for Him 91 Permanent Makeup for Men 92 Male Spa Blunders 94 Male Product Photo Feature 98

It's Raining Men Guide page 71

Skin Care Properties of Carotenoids 104 Healing with Color Therapy 108 Organic & Wellness News 114

Healing with Color Therapy page 108

Knifeless Face Lift

Spa of the Month Our Industry's Finest The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas Recap Spa News

ORGANIC & WELLNESS

EXTRAS From the Editor Advertiser Index

116 118 124 129

6 130

Cover Photography by Franck Provost

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229.

Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664.

LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial Associate Maureen Castellon maureen@LNEonline.com

NEW! AGE REVERSE FACIAL Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

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Formulated with revolutionary anti-aging ingredients, the Age Reverse Lifting Facial is the ultimate corrective treatment. A potent 8 Peptide complex, encapsulated Retinol, Super C, Berry & Citric acids, Collagen, and Brighteners work to radically decrease signs of age.

AVAILABLE AT THE INTRODUCTORY PRICE $110.00 Offer valid through July 31, 2016 BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com JUly 2016

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Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Alan Araya alan@LNEonline.com Design Advisor Charlie Jackman Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato Rhonda Allison Rose Marie Beauchemin Diane Buccola Carrie Ann Buckingham Caroline Canetti

C ontributors Maureen Castellon Szilvia Hickman Janel Luu Lydia Sarfati David Suzuki

Pamela Taylor Daren Thomas Donna Tokugawa Shawn Towne Mary Van Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

A true botanical powerhouse in your hands As the pioneers of aromatherapy, DECLÉOR harnesses the natural power of essential oils & scientific expertise to deliver powerful skincare. DECLÉOR brings results to skin at spa and at home.

Discover more about our business support and in-depth education designed to help your spa succeed. www.decleorusa.com • 888.852.2829

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effects of

INFLAMMATION on skin

The causes and treatments of chronic and temporary skin swelling

by Rhonda Allison

W H AT I S I N F L A M M AT I O N ?

Is it something to be concerned about or is it simply part of the body’s natural response? In short, it’s a bit of both.

Often, inflammation is perceived to be a concern because it’s commonly associated with infections, wounds and increased susceptibility to other diseases. While this is certainly a valid association, it’s important to remember that inflammation is the response caused by infection or a wound. In other words, it’s the body’s response to trauma, and it’s a very complex biological process.

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EFFECTS OF INFLAMMATION ON SKIN

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nflammation signals to the body to begin the healing process. Without inflammation receptors, wounds and infections would not heal. Thus, it is an important and necessary part of skin rejuvenation. We reach the danger zone of inflammation when it becomes chronic, and the susceptibility to other diseases increases. It is essential to understand the difference between acute and chronic inflammation, how it impacts skin, and how to prevent and treat it.

ACUTE VS. CHRONIC INFLAMMATION In many regards, inflammation is a form of protection. It is the body’s way of responding to trauma and harmful stimuli such as pathogens and other irritants, and in healthy conditions, it supports the body in removing the injury or irritant and beginning the healing process.

There are two classifications of inflammation: acute and chronic. Acute is the aforementioned initial response by the body to initiate healing. Chronic is prolonged inflammation, which can often lead to a variety of diseases.

Acute inflammation generally lasts for several days or less, and is essential to the healing process. It triggers a signal to send support to the wound site by increasing the flow of plasma and leukocytes to eliminate pathogens.

Swelling indicates the area is full of plasma and leukocytes, and pain draws awareness to the damage, prompting gentle care to be taken. This is normal inflammation and part of the rejuvenation process as well. In fact, acute skin inflammation is common following corrective facial treatments.

It is when inflammation persists or serves no purpose, that it damages the body and thus the skin. Inflammation is chronic when it is a constant part of the physiology, or when the immune system mistakenly attacks normal tis-

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sues. It has been linked as a primary contributor to most of the challenges that plague the skin. In fact, according to an article published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, “chronic inflammation appears strongly linked to many preventable and treatable skin diseases and conditions such as visible skin aging.”

In fact, scientists Albert Kligman, M.D., and Robert Lavker, Ph.D., suggested chronic inflammation was at the root of many cutaneous and systemic diseases several decades ago, and this theory has since been scientifically accepted. Aging, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and eczema, to name a few, can also be traced to chronic skin inflammation. In the body, inflammation has been linked as the root cause of atherosclerosis, rheumatoid arthritis, cancer, heart disease, diabetes, Alzheimer’s and stroke.

HOW TO IDENTIFY SKIN INFLAMMATION There are five principal indicators of inflammation, including pain, heat, redness, swelling and loss of function.

These indicators are also essential to skin regeneration, because during the inflammation stage, platelets release pro-youth growth factors and other pro-inflammatory molecules to heal, rebuild and renew.

There are corrective, exfoliating treatments that can effectively stimulate this acute inflammatory response, such as facial peels. This treatment produces a controlled, short-term inflammatory response, thereby initiating the rejuvenation process. While this supports a youthful, healthy outcome, it is critical to replenish and nourish the skin with skinbuilding antioxidants and growth factors.

SKIN

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NEED TITLE

“Inspired by Nature... realized by Science.”

LUC R È C E PH Y S I C I ANS ’ AE S T H E TI C R E S E A R CH | 8 0 0 . 6 2 6 . 7 5 4 6 • w w w. lu c re ce . co m

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EFFECTS OF INFLAMMATION ON SKIN

TREATING AND PREVENTING SKIN INFLAMMATION Since inflammation is the body’s response to an infection or a wound, effective treatment requires a proper diagnosis of the root cause. What is the source of the skin inflammation? While some cases may require consultation with a physician, most other acute occurrences may be remedied with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant-rich ingredients.

Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients should be included in a healthy diet, taken in by nourishing foods and supplements, and included in a healthy skin regimen.

Topical ingredients that inhibit skin inflammation, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), reactive oxygen species (ROS), and glycation (advanced glycation end products, or AGEs) include:

Inflammation may also reveal itself in the form of a skin disease such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis and some forms of acne.

CAUSES OF SKIN INFLAMMATION There are a number of culprits that stimulate or contribute to skin inflammation.

These include burns, overexposure to UV rays, stress, toxins such as pollution and smoking, trauma, alcohol, immune reactions and infection by pathogens, foreign bodies such as dirt and debris… the list goes on.

emits 4,000 free radicals), smoking reduces circulation by restricting blood vessels and thus the flow of oxygen to the cells, and depletes the skin of important antioxidants.

POLLUTION AND OTHER TOXINS

o Ascorbic acid (L). A potent antioxidant and collagen builder, it protects against photo damage, neutralizes ROS and supports wound healing.

Pollution and toxins cause free-radical damage, which breaks down collagen and elastin fibers, and the skin’s protective barrier.

o Glucosamine HCI (D). Provides anti-inflammatory and anti-glycation support.

ILLNESS AND OTHER DISEASES Illnesses or diseases present in the body can also display themselves as skin diseases. If you suspect a bigger issue, refer the client to their physician.

SUN EXPOSURE This is a top contributor to inflammation and skin aging, but it is one of the most preventable. UVA and UVB rays penetrate the dermis, negatively affecting the skin at the cellular level by depleting it of nutrients and hydration.

SMOKING A major free-radical producer (one puff

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o Arnica Montana. Speeds wound healing and reduces skin inflammation.

Most of the above contributors emit free radicals, which over time degrade cells and inhibit the body’s ability to naturally repair itself. Free radicals, however, are simply unavoidable, as the skin is constantly exposed to them. Hence, it’s important to eliminate as many opportunities for exposure to them as possible. This includes limiting sun exposure, reducing stress, increasing sleep and not smoking.

o Ergothioneine (L). A potent antioxidant and naturally derived amino acid. o Glycine soja. An MMP blocker with amino acids that promote collagen and elastin synthesis. o Epidermal growth factors (EGFs).

Composed of 53 amino acids, it is a protein that heals skin injuries and stimulates cell proliferation. o Omega 6 essential fatty acids (linoleic and oleic acid). Provides antiinflammatory skin-building benefits.

LONG TERM

INSTANT PLUMP BENEFITS

*Model is wearing Pale Rose shade

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EFFECTS OF INFLAMMATION ON SKIN

Thermus thermophilus ferment (algae) extract. A powerful antioxidant o

and detoxifying enzyme, it strengthens and delivers oxygen to skin tissues. o Tocopherols. A form of vitamin E, they protect against cellular damage and improve respiration. o Zinc. A natural mineral for sun protection. o Resveratrol. Naturally produced by plants when under attack, this anti-inflammatory and MMP blocker prevents infection.

Vitamin A – carrots, kale, spinach, pumpkin, liver and cantaloupe Vitamin C – camu camu, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, guava and citrus Vitamin E – olive oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, oats, tomatoes and carrots Bioflavonoids – citrus, berries, onions, tea, red wine, dark chocolate and sea buckthorn Polyphenols – berries, tea, dark chocolate, walnuts, peanuts and pomegranates

that contains natural sun blockers like zinc.

While not all causes of inflammation can be avoided, sun damage is one stimulus that is absolutely preventable, and SPF protects the skin from irreversible damage and disease.

If you’re ever unsure about what may be causing your client’s skin inflammation, refer them to a medical professional. Proper diagnosis is essential, and if something larger is happening under the surface, it must be addressed immediately. 

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda

A healthy diet consisting of organic, low-inflammatory, antioxidant rich ingredients also support overall skin health. Consider providing clients with an ingredient list or recipe ideas with antioxidants such as:

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These ingredients support the body through the healing process and prevent inflammation. The best defense is avoiding inflammatory offenders.

Educate clients about the need for a product with an SPF of 30 or higher

Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years’ aesthetic experience. Visit RhondaAllison.com and ramethod.com for more information.

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FACE LIFT Global Recontouring Beauty Facials

by Janel Luu

H

ave you ever seen a woman from another country with a stunningly beautiful face and wondered if she knew something you didn't about maintaining a flawless complexion? Every culture has its anti-aging secrets, proving that maintaining an ageless look doesn’t depend on surgeries or costly anti-aging regimens. More than ever before, multi-cultural trends in skin care and wellness are becoming all the rage in the American spa market.

While facial resculpting is a growing trend in particular, different countries have interesting and sometimes unusual methods for developing firmness and tone, promoting blood circulation and decreasing inflammation. A few of the facial resculpting methods currently in the spotlight include Chinese Meridian facial recontouring, Korean surgery-free face-lifting techniques and European facial fitness, and a few others that are more exotic and have a distinctive presence in only the most exclusive spas.

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Chinese Meridian Facial Recontouring – Wisdom Through the Ages Meridian Facial Recontouring is adapted from centuries-old Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) principles used in acupuncture, and is sometimes referred to as "gua sha." TCM meridian theory is integrated into Western esthetic techniques by massaging key meridian facial points in specific directions along energy pathways, using therapeutic jade tools that contain iron, copper, manganese and calcium.

The beneficial minerals and distinctive shapes of jade tools are believed to open up meridian energy channels while providing a non-invasive means of sculpting facial contours.

The result? Meridian facial recontouring treatments have been shown to increase surface blood circulation by 400 percent, decrease inflammation and smooth underlying fascia and facial muscles. For mature skin types, facial resculpting treatments lift sagging skin, recontour the face and minimize fine lines as a face lift does, while at the same time evening skin tone and restoring a healthy-looking radiance.

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Younger, acne-prone skin shows improvement due to the treatment's antiinflammatory properties.

Benefits aren’t just limited to the face. Meridian facial recontouring supports natural detoxification and clears lymphatic pathways throughout the entire body, leading to a reduction in tension and an overall improvement in bodily health. Sixty-minute treatments start at the scalp and tend to cost $80 - $150.

Korean Face-Lifting Techniques – Noninvasive Alternative South Korea has one of the highest per-capita rates of cosmetic surgery procedures in the world, specifically in facial bone recontouring. In fact, one

successful Korean plastic surgeon's office boasted twin glass towers filled to the brim with more than 2,000 pieces of jawbone collected from patients who had undergone facial bone recontouring surgery. Women looking for healthier ways to achieve the ideal “v-shaped” face without resorting to the cost and risk of cosmetic surgery have become avid fans of manual Korean face-lifting techniques.

Like meridian facial recontouring, Korean face-lifting techniques emphasize skin tissue firming and facial resculpting by stimulating the surface of the skin along acupuncture points.

First, moisturizer is warmed in the hands to enhance absorption, then pressed into the skin on the face and neck. The esthetician uses fists and knuckles to firmly massage underneath the cheek-

- SKIN OF -

COLOUR Broaden Your Color Palette

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–––– Treat ALL skin ethnicities with confidence using Rhonda Allison’s 2016 Signature Skin of Color Facial and Peel.

rhondaallison.com | 866-313-SKIN (7546)

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KNIFELESS FACE LIFT

bones, up toward the temples, down the outer contours of the face, along the bridge of the nose to the forehead, and again down the sides of the face.

The facial concludes after the neck is firmly kneaded.

While Korean face-lifting is notorious for firm, fisted massage strokes, care should be taken not to tug or rub the skin too vigorously, which could counteract the lifting and smoothing effects. After the face-lifting treatment, a sheet mask drenched in serums containing vitamins, peptides and collagen is applied for hydration and antiaging benefits. Microcurrent can also be used in the treatment to improve facial contours, skin tone, lines and wrinkles. Korean face-lifting, or “vline facial treatment” requires regular weekly or bi-weekly visits to maintain results. Treatments last one hour and cost $75-$175.

Viennese Facial Fitness – Exercise Your Options

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In the 1920s, a Viennese surgeon collaborated with a French cosmetologist

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named Renna Campbell to create facial muscle massage techniques to firm and contour the jawline. Since facial muscles tend to weaken over time and lead to sagging skin and wrinkles, the goal of this European "exercise for the face" is to strengthen and tone the facial muscles from within.

European facial fitness involves pushing and pulling the flow of blood through the jugular vein, which increases microcirculation in the face, nourishes skin, and tightens facial muscles and connective tissue. Also known as the “Renna” method, this technique was originally made popular by Hollywood stars including Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable.

Serums and creams are used during the muscle massage, which targets muscles that raise the cheeks, pull up the corners of the mouth, lift eye areas, and smooth out facial contours. Facial fitness will not get rid of deep wrinkles, but has been shown to increase circulation about 20 times faster than normal.

The resulting increase in oxygen uptake leads to a smoother, more lifted appearance. Treatments cost $85-$225 per hour,

and as with any muscular exercise, must be repeated regularly to maintain results.

The Japanese Geisha Facial – Drop-ins Welcome Today, high-end spas integrate a Japanese beauty secret into "The Geisha Facial," which uses nightingale excrement to soften, firm and brighten skin. This practice dates back to the 1700s, when elegant Japanese female entertainers called geishas traditionally wore heavy white makeup containing large concentrations of zinc and lead, which was difficult to remove and caused serious skin and health issues.

Nightingale excrement was found to not only help remove the thick makeup, but also soften and brighten the skin.

The Geisha Facial has become a trend in high-end spas and salons that source the funky ingredient from nightingale farms in Japan. Excrement from nightingales fed only organic seed is sanitized with UV light and dehydrated.

This precious commodity is ground into white powder and mixed with rice bran for exfoliation. During the facial, the

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Creating a point of difference leads to a successful esthetic business. powder is mixed with water, forming a paste that is massaged into the skin before being rinsed off. The mixture's high concentrations of urea and the amino acid guanine hold in moisture, soften and tighten skin, and create a shimmery, radiant glow. Not for the faint of heart, 60-minute geisha facials in New York City cost $180-$240.

flow, plumps fine lines, helps even out skin tone and reduces inflammation (eventually). Bee venom is also described as a natural "Botox," reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles by inhibiting the face's muscular contractions. Sixty-minute treatments cost upwards of $250 and have created a buzz in the UAE, as well as Britain's royal family.

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Janel Luu has more than 30 years of experience as an international educator as well as a

Facials Causing a Buzz Elite spas in The United Arab Emirates offer the Bee Sting Facial, named for the facial mask containing bee venom.

The face's natural response to the sensation of being stung promotes blood

effective treatments that stand out from the rest. The key is to avoid repeating the same methods in your facial services. If you always start from the décolleté and work upward, as with European facials, then switch your method to starting from the scalp and working downward, as with Asian techniques. Creating a point of difference leads to a successful esthetic business. Don’t be afraid to set yourself apart with these innovative surgery free face lift techniques from across the globe! 

International Techniques, Universal Allure

skin care researcher and developer for major cosmetic companies. In 2004 she launched Le Mieux Cosmetics, an anti-

As an esthetician, your main goal is to build a community of clients who experience well-being through unique and

aging professional skin care brand. Luu has educated more than 30,000 professionals in the skin care industry.

Skin knows.

From the purest ingredients, to our innovative formulations, quality is something the skin can feel.

Clients indulge in it.

Therapists prefer it.

• Paraben Free • Dye Free • Unscented • Natural

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Performance Health®, Biofreeze® and Bon Vital’® Trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its subsidiaries and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2016—Performance Health. All rights reserved.

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ea T skin care in

Japanese Green Tea Treatments

by Donna Tokugawa

A

ll “real tea� comes from one plant: Camellia sinensis. However this generalization is equivalent to saying that all wine comes from a grape. Cultivars, terroir and processing are what make the difference. Many plants such as chamomile, mint and lavender can be steeped or brewed into a tisane for very different yet powerful benefits. It is most important to understand the enormous medicinal importance of tea from the Camellia sinensis, and its application in skin care.

Tea varieties include white, yellow, green, oolong, red and black, all of which are abundant in nutritional properties. However all teas are not created equally, and not every tea should be used in skin care. Loose leaf tea is significantly superior to tea bags when it comes to skin care. Tea bags use materials that may have been bleached or contain petroleum oil by-products, have a gluten seal and generally lower quality tea.

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EPIDEMIOLOGICAL EVIDENCE

shows green tea to be the best.

Japanese green teas are grown and processed in a very unique manner, undergoing minimal oxidative processing, providing the clean perfection indigenous to a culture deeply rooted in esthetics. Japanese loose leaf green teas have been used as both nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals since ancient times, and its no wonder why! Internally, its nutritional properties with super antioxidant properties scavenge free radicals.

In traditional Chinese and Indian medicine, practitioners have used green tea as a stimulant, diuretic and astringent, and in Japan, it is hailed for its undisputed effects on health, beauty and longevity.

GREEN TEA PROPERTIES AND BENEFITS Japanese green tea has no preservatives or additives and contains an abundance of beneficial properties, including the following: Catechins are naturally occurring antioxidants that function as anti-inflam-

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matory, anti-cancer agents. They help stabilize collagen and elastin, reduce inflammation, regulate the immune system, promote enzymatic activity within the body and support healthy weight maintenance.

Antibacterial properties reduce acne and promote healing following chemical peels and microdermabrasion procedures.

Theanine. Green tea contains high levels of this property, which relaxes and calms the mind, creates a positive effect on mood, rehydrates the body and helps eliminate toxins. Used on the skin, active ingredients fortify cells, supporting a healthy foundation to prevent and defend.

Antioxidants work to scavenge free radicals. Green tea’s high concentrations of antioxidants are rich in flavonoids, with the predominance of caf-

feine and catechins (epigallocatechin gallate and epigallocatechin (EGCG and EGC)), making it a panacea of sorts.

Amino acids, known as polypeptides and polysaccharides, penetrate the skin, providing antibacterial, UVA and UVB protection, enhancing the ability to absorb and retain moisture on the epidermis, penetrating down to the dermis and improving the texture and appearance in general.

Caffeine and tannins give skin a firmer appearance, soften fine lines, lift eyes and reduce puffiness — not only for eyes but also for ankles, thighs and tummies.

L-theanine is an amino acid found only in Camellia sinensis and some mushrooms.

This powerhouse stimulates the buildup of collagen, calms the mind, rehydrates the body and helps eliminate toxins, all of which contributes to radiant skin.

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INCORPORATE INTO YOUR PRACTICE

Japanese green tea is such a powerful ingredient that an entire spa menu can be created using little more than the tea. It can be utilized for quick, easy yet very powerful results. It can also be used in a fillin treatment on a busy day if your spa is running late between clients to buy goodwill. Consider the following example of a complete yet easy treatment.

Your client’s organic oasis begins as they slip their feet into a warm tea soaking bowl. Any swelling in the ankles is reduced, their skin is softer, and any blisters they have begin to heal. Because the body absorbs products from the skin, they begin to be infused with the tea.

Next, bloom a hand wipe, using the very same Japanese green tea, and use this bamboo towelette to hydrate your client’s hands, paying special attention to their nails and cuticles to prevent hang nails due to skin dryness. Continue massaging the tea into the hands, as this is the first part of skin to show signs of aging. Provide a spritzer bottle of the tea for clients to rehydrate the hands following the treatment.

Place a warm herbal tea and flaxseed neck wrap on them to relax their shoulders.

Bloom a bamboo fabric facial mask (warm or cold depending on climate), which allows this tea to create magic on the face. Hand your client a mirror and ask them to look for an area where they want to see the most improvement. Apply the mask to this area and let it sit for at least 15 minutes.

Pour a cup of the tea (hot or cold depending on climate) for your client to sip while the mask sinks in.

After 15 minutes, remove the mask. Show them the mirror again to see the outstanding results!

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SKIN

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TEA IN SKIN CARE

AMAZING ADD-ONS Upselling with Japanese green tea offered as an add-on to any treatment can easily and effectively improve the results of any services. Consider the following examples: Facials. The first steeping of tea contains all the caffeine, which tightens skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines. On younger skin, use a green tea mask after extractions or chemical work. For mature skin, use before the moisturizing step for better absorption.

Back Facials. Incorporate green tea to help reduce acne, as well as heal and calm the skin post-waxing.

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toward less invasive procedures, increasing consumer awareness and the escalating desire to return to nature.

Considering these factors, along with the plethora of Japanese green tea’s outstanding qualities, it is clear why its value extends far beyond simply being a refreshing beverage. 

D o n n a To k u g a w a is an ongoing contributor to TeaLifestyleJournal.com, an

Steam Rooms and Saunas. These amenities greatly benefit from using tea. The antibacterial properties keep the rooms fresh and clean, and tea can simply be replaced for water. This can also help equipment last longer and perform better.

Today we are seeing an aging population, combined with a shift

educational platform for professionals and consumers. She frequently speaks and educates on teas with a specific focus on Chinese, Japanese and Taiwanese teas. Tokugawa is one of the founders of Chado-En, a tea importer and wholesaler, and The Taste of Tea Lounge and Relaxation Tea Spa in Healdsburg, Calif.

Email her at donna@thetasteoftea.com.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #167 on reader service card

Foot Soaks and Body Baths. Place

the tea in a muslin bag and add to the warm water for about 10 minutes and remove. Antibacterial properties heal, and slimming properties benefit the hips, thighs and tummy while soothing, smoothing and moisturizing properties enhance the overall appearance and feel of the feet and body. *Remember that the tea is absorbed, an important consideration for expectant or new mothers, as well as those recovering from surgery.

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Selectively Scientific

Delivering powerful encapsulated peptides, ExPürtise’s Effective Anti-Aging Face Serum promotes optimal tissue architecture. This gluten-free formula protects skin cell telomeres with certified organic astragalus extract, prolonging cell life by preventing DNA degradation. Normal aging is further slowed with Swiss Apple Stem Cells, which have been shown to stimulate the proliferation of human stem cells.

This serum delivers powerful anti-aging that directly stimulates and reorganizes skin’s collagen matrix.

800.294.1154 expurtise.com

splash into summer

RéjuvaSea’s Replenish: Cellular Repair Night Cream is formulated with highly active levels of RéjuvaPlankton®, proven to build collagen and elastin, promote cell turnover to boost radiance both instantly and over time. A blend of seaweed, kelp and algae extracts repair and strengthen skin’s natural moisture barrier. Simultaneously bioavailable vitamin C, it clarifies and brightens skin, reducing hyperpigmentation by 80 percent.

Repair. Protect. Revive.

Your clients will wake up with firmer, brighter, more youthful skin.

Replere’s Anti-aging Line is designed to be highly effective, delivering visible differences in the overall appearance of your clients’ skin within weeks. The key ingredient is coffea arabica extract, the unripened fruit of the coffee plant, a top source of antioxidants.

800.763.0904 rejuvasea.com

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

Additional potent ingredients include pine bark, goji and acai berries, grapeseed, pomegranate, green tea and vitamins A, C and E.

609.495.9053 replere.com

Revitalizing Remedy A new breakthrough product for wrinkles, acne, psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, seborrheic keratosis, pruritus, photo-aged skin and rosacea in one technologically innovative formula is now available in Glymed Plus’ Skin Restoring Fulvic Elixir.

Easily absorbed into the skin and targeting the most challenging conditions, Fulvic Acid assists in every stage of cellular rejuvenation, deeply penetrating the benefits into the epidermis.

This innovative formula is anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral and anti-inflammatory.

800.676.9667 glymedplus.com

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“

These products were created

out of love for my children and grandchildren. I used the best

ingredients from the sea and nature to create an all-natural face and body wash and face moisturizer to gently clean and nurture the skin while they soothe, calm, and enhance well-being. My family loves them, and I’m sure your family will love them too!

”

—Lydia Sarfati Founder and CEO, Repêchage®

ISO

9001

Paraben FREE

CERTIFIED COMPANY

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Gluten FREE

Not Tested on Animals

Made with Natural Ingredients

Proudly Made in USA

Non-Irritant Non-Allergenic

LNeonline.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #196 on reader service card

Clinically Tested

N EW !

FUSION

EXPRESS BAR and SPA MASKS With Nutriceutical Organic Actives

and AT-HOME PRODUCTS

Awaken your skin with the NEW sensory facials everyone can enjoy!

Call for a FREE DVD

CHOCOFINA MATCHAFINA BERRYFINA VANILLAFINA www.repechage.com

1.800.248.SKIN

You Tube

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Spa of the Month The Amethyst Spa at The Restoration Hotel Charleston, South Carolina

by Amanda Clinton Winter

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amed after the famous quartz crystal, it’s no surprise that the Amethyst Spa within Charleston, S.C.’s boutique, all suite Restoration Hotel was “inspired by an elegant bespoke jewel box,” according to Director of Spa and Retail Arlie Morgan, and is attuned to the needs of each guest or visitor of the hotel.

There is a strong sense of community at Amethyst, as well as a palpable effort to personalize every moment for each client. With two treatment rooms, an on-trend nail bar, and en suite and poolside treatments, the amethystinfused menu is designed to delight.

Training Amethyst Spa exclusively carries just two product lines. The best educators from these companies visited the facility to train the staff in December 2015 before its opening. Once the spa opened in 2016 and found its rhythm, Morgan selected her strongest massage therapist, esthetician and nail technician to serve as lead trainers in their respective categories for newly hired team members. This type of fluid communication has served the spa well.

Each month the spa hosts an hourlong department meeting to discuss operations, incentives, goals and team building exercises. Team members are encouraged to ask questions, share concerns and fully participate in planned activities.

Team As Morgan notes, a spa is only as cohesive as the communication between staff and management. She conducts 30 and 90-day performance reviews for

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each new employee. She tracks revisits, product sales and upsells. Contests are held to incentivize staff with cash award prizes. When the team meets a goal as a group, they are taken out to dinner.

In addition, she lets therapists know their performance ratings and discusses how they can improve. Morgan's role, as she perceives it, “is to be a huge and steadfast supporter with a policy of consistent and open communication for greater success.”

Events Charleston is a port city with four full seasons. The spa hosts seasonal promotions featuring special treatments.

This summer, Amethyst is introducing poolside treatments and mini-services to appeal to tourists and locals alike.

One of the spa's key strategies is to plan for events months in advance if

possible. In addition, Amethyst Spa holds a monthly promotional event within the spa or in the retail component of the Hotel, Port Mercantile, to generate interest.

Marketing Since Amethyst is so new, marketing is innovative, as it has no set expectations or patterns. A public relations firm handles the spa’s platform, but that does not mean Amethyst can stop promoting itself.

One essential marketing strategy is cross-referencing within multiple audiences, particularly those that are wellestablished, as local faces or interests already have a set niche that can be tapped into for promotion.

For example, Morgan has hosted baking demonstrations in the retail area with local acclaimed chefs. These mem-

SPA

bers of the cultural community can recruit their followers to bolster the event via attendance and posting pictures.

A skin care event is also planned at Amethyst Spa for this summer, which is being promoted through the website and designated social media platforms.

Signature Treatments The Amethyst Signature Facial harnesses the detoxifying and soothing properties of the purple stone. Energycharged creams and tonics tap into healing agents courtesy of amethyst wands. These tools can be felt on physical and emotional levels. Wands can act as any other massage tool — they can be placed on trigger points or access the lymphatic system, which focuses on detoxifying the body. On a deeper level, these wands harness the electromagnetic energy of the body into a positively charged state, which can increase energy flow and recharge the body. In essence, the wand relaxes the body as the healing frequencies of the

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purple quartz crystal calms the mind.

Skin is refreshed as inner peace flows with renewed vigor ($190/50 minutes or $240/80 minutes). Seven add-ons, from peels to eye masks, are also available.

An additional in-house specialty is the Amethyst Signature Meridian Massage. Chi, the life force in the body, can be accessed through the energy points known as meridians. Rebalancing energy is achieved via the purple quartz crystal as the primary tool in this treatment. Sapphire (releases mental tension) in conjunction with aquamarine (inspires the act of letting go) charges the stones, and warm oils are used to further harmonize the body ($155/50 minutes or $205/80 minutes).

Revenue and retail Morgan aims to find a business balance between spa treatments and retail. As she explains, “I have partnered with several neighboring businesses on the Peninsula and often deploy my massage therapists to their stores to offer complimentary neck massages.

I also have created a network of hotel concierges who do not have a spa on their property. The quality of my therapists, unique treatment protocols and skin care products sell themselves and encourage revisits.�

However, Morgan does acknowledge that attracting locals in for treatments is a challenge, which she counteracts by creating spa events to spread the word about Amethyst. Products used in spa treatments are also available at Port Mercantile, the 800 square foot retail space within the five buildings of The Restoration Hotel.

Take a gem of wisdom from Amethyst Spa and incorporate the healing properties of gemstones for a menu and experience guests want to book during all seasons!

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WHO’S BEHIND THE SCENES Director of Spa and Retail Arlie Morgan has perfected the art of creating experiences for clients throughout her extensive career in the hospitality industry. Beginning her career in department store retail, she later helped launch one of the country’s first luxury spas for men, and in 2007 opened a wax studio that was profiled in high-end magazines. Morgan also served as the Operations Manager at Kiawah Island Golf Club in South Carolina.

With all these achievements to her credit, the opening of Amethyst Spa has been one of the highlights of Morgan’s professional career. 

RUNDOWN 75 Wentworth Street Charleston, S.C. 29401 843.518.5116 Launched: January 2016 Owner: Jeffrey R. Anderson Real Estate Director of Spa and Retail: Arlie Morgan Facility: 2 treatment rooms, 1 nail bar Signature Treatments: Amethyst Signature Facial Amethyst Signature Meridian Massage Product lines used and retailed: Nature Bisse and Själ Skincare London Town Nail Polish, Grown Alchemist, Gentlemen’s Brand Client breakdown: 70% female, 30% male

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@lneonline.com.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #118 on reader service card

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

Long Beach, CA SEPTEMBER 11 & 12, 2016 LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

30 Years of Skin Care & Spa Expertise

Your Source to Breath New Life Into Your Business Main Stage Lectures and Demos Mindful Biz Conference

Makeup Conference Spa Refresh Conference

Social Media Conference

Customer Care Conference

Revenue Growth Conference

Tax Preparation Conference

Med Spa Business Conference Wellness Conference

Product Focused Training Hundreds of Exhibitors

S P O N SO R E D BY :

LNEonline.com |

Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program

USA: 305.443.2322

FAX: 305.443.1664 LNEonline.com

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THE ANNUAL LNE & SPA AWARD HONORS THE BEST SPAS IN OUR INDUSTRY FOR THE FIFTH YEAR IN A ROW! THIS DISTINCTION WAS CREATED TO RECOGNIZE SPAS THAT EXEMPLIFY TRUE EXCELLENCE.

by Amanda Clinton Winter

T

he LNE & SPA AWARD is entering its sixth year. It began in 2011, and honors the exemplary commitment, quality services and innovations of four domestic spas and one international spa. Spas are recognized in five categories: Luxury Spa, Day Spa, Wellness Spa, Medical Spa and International Spa. The 2016 winners have been selected for their innovations in customer service, treatments and ambiance that characterize the boldness of the spa industry. Mystery clients visited all shortlisted locations to generate detailed reports for the LNE & Spa Committee.

We thank all candidates and offer hearty congratulations to the winners of LNE & Spa Award winners of 2016!

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Opened: 2005

International Spa Winner Be mesmerized by the ultimate indulgence that combines the visual delight of being under the waves, complete with flitting fish, and the pampering of a massage. The LIME Spa Huvafen Fushi in the Maldives won over voters in the International Spa division for its underwater aquarium massage room. Seaside massages are now passĂŠ when clients can literally be transported to another world and the next level of serene luxury.

Size: 6,555 sq ft

Facilities:

8 treatment rooms (6 overwater, 2 underwater), steam room, sauna, relaxing area, retail boutique Spa Manager: Thuy Thi Nguyen Staff: 11

Products used/retailed:

Intraceuticals, Anne Semonin

Most popular treatment: Marine Wave

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Luxury Spa Winner Clients and voters embrace nature with Primland’s Signature Massage, which incorporates the elements of the surrounding 12,000 acres of rolling hills in rural Virginia. Resort directors invited local tribes to consult on the treatment to create a thoroughly authentic experience, which made it the champion of the Luxury Spa considerations. The treatment harnesses the properties of mineral hot stones and healing plant aromatherapies to harmonize with traditional Native American movements to revitalize the spirit.

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Opened: 2009 Size: 7,500 sq ft Facilities: 6 single rooms,

1 couple's room, dry sauna, temperaturecontrolled men's showers Spa Director: Mara Bouvier Staff: 20

Products used/retailed: Naturopathica, FarmHouse Fresh, Spa Ritual

Most popular treatment: Primland Signature Massage

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LNE & SPA AWARD

Day Spa Winner Great Jones Spa wins for its stunning three-story indoor waterfall and sleek, subterranean wet lounge. It is known for the uniqueness of their five-step Red Flower Hamam treatment, in which clients are first cleansed with Moroccan mint tea, then scrubbed with coffee, olive stones and lemon, then painted with clay, and finally massaged and hydrated with tangerine-fig butter. But the real star here is the water cure on the lower level. The luxe setup boasts a plant-filled atrium adjacent to a hot tub, cold plunge, river-rock sauna and chakra-light steam room.

Opened: 2004 Size: 12,500 square feet Facilities: 16 treatment

rooms, water lounge with Jacuzzi, cold plunge, sauna, steam room, retail area, juice bar General Managers: Karen Terranova, Inga Gordon Staff: 95

Products used and retailed:

Jurlique, Natuorpathica, Dr. Hauschka, Dr. Alkaitis, Vered Organic Botanicals, Alchimie, Stem Cell Beauty Innovations, Dr. Gross, Bare Minerals, Jane Iredale, Illume Candles, Red Flower

Most popular treatment: Deep tissue massage and deep cleansing facial

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Wellness Spa Winner Surrender is at its sweetest with Austin’s Travaasa Spa. A therapist supports the client as they float in a private Watsu pool that has been heated to body temperature simulating a womb-like environment. Blending shiatsu, dance and deep stretching, The Watsu Aquatic Massage champions those who are in need of opening their spines for a complete release of pent up tensions within the body. Following the experience of this liberating treatment, guests have reported life-changing realizations, warranting Travaasa's nomination and ensuing victory in the Wellness Spa class.

Opened: May 2011, renovated in 2014 Size: 11,000 sq ft Facilities: 11 treatment rooms, saline infinity edge pool, whirlpools, steam rooms, hot tub, retail boutique, Watsu treatment pool Spa Manager: David Preslar Staff: 20 Products used and retailed:

Laurel Whole Plant Organics, May Lindstrom, Organic Male

Most popular treatment: Hill Country Honeybee Massage & Treatment

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Opened: 2006 Size: 2,273 sq ft Facilities: 5 treatment

rooms, retail boutique

Medical Director: Dr. Gerald Ginsberg Staff: 10

Products used/retailed:

Medspa Winner Anti-aging can be a glamorous affair at the Tribeca MedSpa, winner in the Medical Spa category for its welcoming dĂŠcor. Baby boomers and Gen Xers alike enjoy the posh ambiance of elegant birchwood elements and a Zen waterfall framed by inviting picture windows. With offerings such as Laser Genesis with Stem Cell Therapy, clients love to book repeat appointments for style and beauty.

Obagi, SkinCeuticals, Camille of NY, LifeLine, Regenica, DNA, Oxygenetics, MDSolarScience, BabyFoot

Most popular treatment: Laser Genesis with Stem Cell Therapy

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The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Dallas, 2016 52

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he International Congress of Esthetics and Spa made a Texas Strong impact on attendees, vendors and instructors, with a dare to aspire as the theme. The congress, held at the Arlington Convention Center on May 15 and 16, was a whirlwind of thrills and insights in skin care.

Spa professionals left wide-eyed with enthusiasm, filled with ideas to foster growth and elevate their practices to the next level. Attendees aspired to new heights at the Main Stage with amazing lectures and demonstrations, while informative conferences and the bustling exhibitor hall filled them with renewed faith in their entrepreneurial visions and fostered a sense of community within the industry.

RenĂŠe Rouleau kick-started the twoday congress with a revitalizing opening ceremony each morning. As a skin care expert and master esthetician for more than 25 years, she inspired all in attendance to move from doubt to certainty via a mission to aspire toward their dreams, whether just beginning or mid-journey. Rouleau shared the importance of passionate goals to best serve clients and their skin, as well as

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instilling fresh perspective and enthusiasm for the exclusive and innovative information that characterized the event.

As a nurturing complement to the innovative educational opportunities presented, attendees were able to personalize their time with vendors to ask questions and discuss implementation options. Warmth permeated the exhibition halls and the congress provided an exceptional opportunity to network, make connections and strengthen the beauty community.

Casey Gainer of White Tara Spa in

“Spa professionals from every pocket of the Southwest were given the opportunity to internalize the breakthroughs and innovations within the industry with their cohorts.”

Houston commented,

“I love coming every year to see my fellow spa professionals and to catch up on what is going on in the industry.

A trend isn’t a trend until I see it here,” said Trish Sullivan, director of Yes Spa

“I truly felt inspired to dream bigger like the theme of the show. I will definitely be coming again next year.” in Oklahoma City

The educational program was packed with the best developers and formulators in the industry. Attendees benefited from their first-hand knowledge and had the opportunity to ask questions regarding implementation and addressing clientbased pain points. Industry experts led discussions on the latest in skin care and spa leadership, advocacy and research.

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Claudia Ellison, owner of Claudia Skin Care Therapy in San Antonio,

“I have been coming [to the congress] since 2011. The classes are informative and the vendors are great.” explained,

Ken Strange of Wimberly’s The Med Spa in Wimberly, Texas shared

“beyond anything I could have ever expected. I am new to the business and after coming here I feel ready for success.”

that the congress was

Members of the skin care and spa community were thrilled to discover the multitude of offerings on the exhibit floor. Leslie Remington, professional esthetician and owner of an online skin concierge service, came to the congress with the goal of upgrading equipment and adapting parts, and left with a wealth of fresh ideas and industry contacts.

The high-energy Dallas congress was a two-day exclusive opportunity for a community of professionals to come together, aspire and share their passionbased goals. Vendors and professionals strongly connected on multiple levels with the intent to share knowledge, boost treatments for clients, enhance their practices and strive for success.

follow us!

@LNEonline

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night and day slimming solution Offer your clients the innovative new firming treatment that provides the additional benefits of smoothing the skin and slimming the figure. Aqua Laure’s Circadian CryoGel uses NocturshapeTM, obtained from planktonic microorganisms that take advantage of circadian rhythms to normalize adipocyte levels. At night, it reduces subcutaneous fat deposits; during the day, it promotes lipolysis, smoothing rough orange peel skin and reducing the appearance of cellulite.

Help your clients be firmer and slimmer in any season!

800.361.1361 francelaure.com

fragrant firming

Introducing Aroma Svelt, the clinically proven body collection from DECLÉOR Paris, which is perfect for summer. The process features two steps, including the AROMESSENCETM SVELT BODY REFINING OIL SERUM and AROMA SVELT BODY FIRMING OIL-IN-CREAM, which work together as a system to provide a refined, firmed and toned appearance.

E”scent”ial Perfection

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

EuroSpa Aromatics’ Lavender Infused Shower Mist provides the benefits of an anti-depressant and relief from anxiety. Soothing lavender supplements exhilarating eucalyptus to create a few sprays in a home shower into a daily “spa experience.” Freshen up your spa with a spray of essential relaxation and add this delight to your retail lineup.

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888.852.2829 decleorusa.com

Mother Nature’s perfect formula to combat fatigue, depression, headaches, insomnia and stress.

800.395.6478 eurospaaromatics.com

freshness overload

Men enjoy a fresh clean feeling that is also gentle on their skin. Matis Paris’ Energizing Shower Gel 2 in 1 refreshes the skin, scalp and hair. Made with a high-quality multi-mineral cocktail of magnesium, copper and zinc which works to promote hydration at the point of cellular renewal. Complete with both moisturizing and non-irritating properties that result in softer skin and hair.

Help your clients boost tired skin with this stimulating and energizing solution.

972.771.0300 myrdm.com

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Introduce your clients to the best at-home follow up for sustainable results from professional body treatments.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #118 on reader service card

BEHIND THE SPA DOOR

A career and a passion for skin care

Frank Garcia

Spa Director at Fort Lauderdale Marriott Harbor Beach Resort & Spa, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

ABOUT THE SPA How can you define the concept of your spa?

The Fort Lauderdale Marriott Harbor Beach Resort & Spa is a European spa with the tropical flair you can expect from a spa set right on the water. With this in mind we infuse our treatments with sea salt and tropical fruit to have an ongoing theme that guests always enjoy.

How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there?

We have 18 rooms for services, including three designated facial rooms and a hydrotherapy room.

What is the most popular treatment?

Our signature treatment is the most popular. The Sticks and Stones Massage combines warm bamboo and Mother Nature into a treatment. Sticks on the back, shoulders and neck release tension, as does the aromatherapy.

MANAGING CHALLENGES What daily challenges do you encounter in your position?

When working in a spa you always have to be prepared for anything. Something may be wrong in the steam room or someone may have to call out sick unexpectedly. To counteract this, I am a pitch hitter. The element of unpredictability is kept to a minimum because I am licensed as a nail technician and a massage therapist, ready to step in if needed.

What would you say is your biggest challenge?

You want to give guests the best experience of their life, but you must also consider the bottom line. You must balance pampering and profit.

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How do you manage stress that work brings into your life?

I love to run a mile every morning. I use this time to focus on plans and goals. Working out is a way for me to be liberated as it acts as a meditation. Healthy eating also helps.

What takes most of your time every day?

We have an a.m. shift meeting and also a p.m. one. The dedication I have to my team of co-workers and my efforts to maintain open communication takes up most of my day. I focus on my team so they can really take care of the customers.

What are the most important lessons you have learned from challenges that you can share with others in your career path?

Certain things can only be learned through experience.

If you have to do a disciplinary action, do so at the end of the day to avoid ruining a team member’s day. Spa directors should learn their entire departments inside and out.

They should work in the locker room and spend time in others’ shoes to have compassion for their work. It is also a great opportunity to be humble.

POSITIVE TEAM BUILDING How do you select the people that work with you?

Experience is good, but passion is best. Our staff was chosen for their passion to serve others.

How many employees do you have and what are their specialties?

The resort has 33 employees that perform different functions. There are 17 massage therapists, three estheticians as well as three receptionists. Three spa supervisors are ready for any guest questions or concerns.

How do you evaluate employees? What makes an employee stand out as a star?

Passion takes care of everything. We strive to make each and every one of our guests feel their innate importance in our spa. We will go above and beyond to accommodate requests. We want our guests to enjoy every minute of their stay.

RETAIL What are your retail goals?

To bump up our profits by at least 10 percent every year. I attend different shows to discover new products and learn about trends.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals?

All team members can participate in our incentive programs.

Marriott pays 10 percent on sales to employees and we have a program with vendors to receive complimentary products.

Where is the retail area located and what is its surface area compared to the rest of the spa?

Guests and locals are always welcome at our spa gift shop called Tranquility, which is conveniently located in the main lobby and adjacent to the spa entrance. The retail space clocks in at 500 square feet; it has three sizable registers and a waiting area for guests to pick up their new favorite products.

The space is highly visible to those coming to and from the spa as well as those visiting the resort. There is something for everybody.

MARKETING AND CLIENT RETENTION What can you tell us about your marketing techniques?

We create packages for different types of people and categories. For example, we target locals and guests with overnight packages. Locals are

key because during the slow season they are the ones who support the spa. We embrace the idea that spa owners should not compete. As a result, we cross-refer with other spas and vice versa for suggestions and ideas.

How do you keep clients loyal?

We maintain contact with all clients. Software helps us keep profiles to see how long it has been since a guest visited the spa. On birthdays and anniversaries we send a little gift with the spa’s logo. We also follow up with clients with phone calls.

Clients and staff enjoy the personal touch of human connection. We want everyone to feel the love and enjoy their visit.

What advice could you give to someone who would like to manage a spa?

After 18 years in the business, I would say serve and follow your passion. 

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Blogging to Build your Brand

by Diane Buccola

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Blog:

(short for “web-log”) A regularly updated website or web page; typically one run by an individual, that is written in an informal or conversational style.

T

here are a multitude of reasons why people blog. For some it’s just a fun hobby, or perhaps it’s a manner in which to document a personal journey with the intent to inspire others. It’s also an excellent way to develop and further a brand.

From a business perspective, blogging makes a lot of sense because few have time to consistently update static website pages; however, with regular blogging, you are providing fresh content for Google and other search engines. This increases your visibility, thereby driving visitors to your website.

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BUSINESS

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CONNECTING WITH CLIENTS

Basic computer skills are all you really

need to set up a blog. Often with just a simple “click” here and “drag and drop” there, you can quickly and easily customize blog software to fit your personality and specific goals. Plenty of information is available online in the form of easy-to-follow written instructions and video tutorials. So once the blog is up and running, you can continue making improvements such as fine-tuning the appearance, optimizing functionality and linking your blog to other social media sites.

Why Create a Blog?

Through your blogging efforts, you can develop relationships with existing and potential clients. For example, if you are creating content that is helpful for your target demographic, blogging can establish you as an authority. Blogging is today’s version of a newsletter, with the added benefit that it ranks with search engines and lasts online for years to come. This means that it continues to get passive traffic with very little effort.

Even when you are on vacation and nowhere near your treatment room, your blog posts are still driving visitors to your business!

Getting Started

IF YOU OPT TO PURCHASE YOUR BLOG SITE, THERE ARE THE 3 BASIC COMPONENTS TO DECIDE UPON:

o Domain name. Your web address. o Web hosting. The computer space you will buy to host your website/blog. o Blogging platform. A specific form of content management that turns a regular site into a functioning blog.

One of the first decisions you make when creating a blog is whether to pick a free blog or one that you must purchase. Of course, “free” sounds very appealing, but there are some major restrictions that come with it. The most significant restriction is the fact that technically somebody else owns your blog, which means you cannot have the domain name of your dreams, and there are limits on what you can do with your blog.

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HOWEVER, based upon my personal experience, I would advise the following: WRITE 10 BLOGS TO HELP YOU DETERMINE… o What your topic and perspective will be. o The goal of your blog. o Your target audience.

CHOOSE A NAME FOR YOUR BLOG THAT IS… o Simple to remember and easy to spell. o Easy for visitors to identify what your blog is about. o Another alternative is to use your own name — this is also a great way to protect your virtual real estate.

GET THE

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CONNECTING WITH CLIENTS

The Look and Feel of Your Blog

PURCHASE YOUR DOMAIN NAME o Once you have a name in mind, check to see if that domain name is available. Your domain name is what visitors use to find you online. o Stick with .com, if possible; otherwise go with .org or .net. o You can have more than one domain name pointed to your blog site.

CHOOSE A WEB HOST o A web host is a company that stores all of the files for your blog and delivers them to the user when they arrive at your web address. o There are multiple web hosts to choose from. Look for easy-to-follow instructions and dependable tech support. o Choose a host that has fast-loading pages and is easy to navigate so your readers won’t be frustrated.

DOWNLOAD BLOG SOFTWARE o WordPress remains the most popular, and SquareSpace is an easy new platform. A quick online search will reveal many other options. o Carefully evaluate the pros and cons of a free blog versus one that must be purchased. o Read any available step-by-step instructions and video tutorials.

The “look and feel” is how your blog site looks to the user, and how it feels when they interact with it. Once you have your domain name, web host and blog software in place, you are ready to decide on design and layout.

Blog software such as WordPress offers “themes.” A theme is the skin of the blog; in other words, the appearance of the blog.

As you assess the theme choices and available add-ons, keep the reader’s experience first and foremost in your mind by making sure your blog is pleasant to look at and easy to read.

Emphasize the blog’s name and the goal so readers immediately understand the point of your blog.

The key to a successful blog is to write as if you are talking to a friend, rather than selling yourself and your brand to the masses. Include an “About Me” page with a photo of yourself so your readers feel like they know you.

Many people hesitate to blog because they think they don’t have anything to say, but it’s more likely that they just haven’t found their voice yet. It is a wonderful thing when your career and passion come together to share with the world. 

Diane Buccola has been a licensed esthetician in

Terminology to know Understanding these common terms will help you in the start-up process: Dashboard: The administration area of your blog.

Plug-in (add-in, extension): A software component that adds a specific feature to an existing computer program.

Widget: An application that can be installed and executed within a web page that enables a user to perform a function or access a service.

Tags: A keyword or term assigned to a piece of information which helps describe an item and allows it to be found again by browsing or searching.

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California since 1998, and is the owner of SpaBizBoard. com, a popular message board and learning tool for the spa industry. Buccola serves on the Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa advisory board, and has authored two books, including "Estheticians Are a Girl’s Best Friend" and "The Heart of Esthetics: Creating Loyal Clients and Achieving Financial Success."

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Choose the Path of Success!

by David Suzuki

I

have a good friend who is nothing short of amazing. He is always full of energy, smiling and seems to be three steps ahead of everything and everybody around him. He is inspired by a challenge and lives to “compete,” as he describes it. Without a doubt, he views life through a glass half full perspective. He inspires me, and the world around him. One day I asked him how he is always so amazing and successful. His answer was short and simple: “It’s easy, because the world is full of average.”

I think about this statement every day, and apply it to everything I do, whether it’s my business, my personal life or my workout. You can interpret the meaning in many different ways, but in short it means that there are very few who go above and beyond the norm to achieve excellence.

Those who do reveal themselves as champions. Going above and beyond allows you to excel in every spectrum where you apply this rule. This is what makes a select few just that much better than the rest. It makes the difference between first place and fifth place, and in many cases the difference between success and failure.

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PASSION SPARKS ACHIEVEMENT

Can Good Succeed?

When you think about businesses that you frequent while considering these concepts, it is easy to identify those that are extraordinary and go above and beyond, as they simply do not have much competition. When you make model shifts to bring your business to the next level of mastery, make sure you exclusively seek out the most passionate individuals that truly champion your business every step of the way.

The Questions

The Passion of Mastery In his book "Outliers", Malcolm Gladwell establishes the pattern of mastery that exists in the most successful athletes, musicians, scholars and businessmen. He hypothesizes that if you put in 10,000 hours, you can become an expert at anything.

Doing the math, a full time occupation brings you into mastery in roughly five years. Those that double up on their efforts can make this transformation in slightly more than two years. If you’re working more than you are spending, the gains can be realized even more expeditiously. In the end then, by this rationale, regardless of whether you do it in two years or eight, EVERYONE should be a master at something.

However there is one caveat to the rule of 10,000, in that you have to be passionate about what you do and have clear objectives that lead you to success. Otherwise, the time spent is aimless and only contributes to becoming a master at mediocrity.

Passionate individuals and businesses are internally driven. The more they apply themselves, the quicker they

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realize gains. Gains are symbolic of success, championing their hard work, and inspiring them further to work even more diligently and with passion to completely master their craft.

The Law of Averages In business and in life there are a seemingly unlimited number of 50-percents and a much slimmer number of 70-percents. Eighty-percents and higher encompass a very small group of individuals or businesses.

The ninety-percents of the world are always successful, regardless of their profession. Companies or individuals who climb above 90 percent are an anomaly that can only be described as extraordinary.

As a whole, the world is full of average. I see every moment of every day as an opportunity for success. There are an endless number of people who believe that those who succeed are greedy, exploitative and just plain lucky.

I disagree. Success is a choice that is available to us all. Realize this and your pathway will be clear.

Are you ready to challenge yourself?

Whether in your profession or your personal life, are you ready to compete and do what it takes to become extraordinary? Feel this fire, realize this instinct and harness its energy to drive you to where you belong.

Can you communicate better? Can you service better? Can you prepare better, uniquely for every client in your business? The simple answer is yes, if you choose to go above and beyond the norm. You can excel and work harder, be paid on your merit and succeed in a way that champions your efforts.

Success is a choice that requires commitment, passion, hard work and diligence. The closer you come to mastery, the more difficult it is to recognize your gains, which makes the journey even more challenging. In the end, it is ultimately what sets you apart from the rest. ď‚Ą

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition.

Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes.

Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.

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CONTINUING EDUCATION

Bio-Therapeutic’s Live Stream Education offers a winning solution for busy professionals. Work with new, forward thinking education software to offer live education online, as well as pre-recorded classes.

This innovative flexibility allows busy professionals to continue ongoing education in a way that works for their schedule.

This educational initiative is yet another way the company is working hard to bring every skin therapist into a level of mastery with his or her skin care technology!

800.971.6438 bio-therapeutic.com

KEY CONFERENCE

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

COMPANY ACQUISITION

Universal Companies has acquired SpaEquip, Inc., a spa development provider known throughout the spa and hospitality industries for its expertise with spa equipment. “Bringing inventive, affordable spa development and equipment solutions to match customer needs and applying the perfect amount of customization is what SpaEquip does best,” says Universal CEO Brenda Elliott. “Having partners like SpaEquip will be of huge benefit as we continue to develop solutions that help our customers anticipate their patrons’ needs and provide wellness focused experiences.”

CEO and founder of Rêpechage Lydia Sarfati welcomed more than 150 skin care and spa professionals from across the world to Repêchage’s 18th Annual International Conference for Salon & Spa Professionals. Guests gathered at this year’s New York City conference to hear industry experts speak and be part of the launch of the new Repêchage Fusion Express Bar and Spa Masks with Nutriceutical Organic Actives and at-home products.

The conference concluded with the annual Repêchage President’s Awards.

800.248.7546 repechage.com

This is great news for the spa, hotel and resort industry!

800.558.5571 universalcompanies.com

YOUR LATEST MUST-READ

Esteemed Ayurveda teacher and healer Robert Sachs is dedicated to seeing people receive information that is both relevant and useful to their daily living. His new book, “The Ecology of Oneness”, is one of the summer’s most anticipated new reads. The page turner focuses on how each person can contribute to a sustainable, vibrant world for the current and future generations, leaving behind a legacy of love.

Be inspired by Sachs’ spiritual transformation vision of global magnitude.

805.254.4882 diamondwayayurveda.com

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Get the full scoop on men’s skin care needs & wants, popular grooming, special treatments, massage & more

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MEN Who are today’s male spa clients?

by Carrie Ann Buckingham Enticing men into your spa entails more than simply slapping the word “Male” or “Gentleman” onto a treatment and calling it a day. Men come in all shapes and sizes, and so should your spa treatments for them. The man running a Fortune 500 company is not necessarily the same as the kale-loving hipster who goes to Coachella or the jock who spends three hours a day at the gym. It’s essential to cater to each male client as an individual and customize treatments toward their specific hobbies and personalities.

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The Executive The busy executive needs to present a well-groomed look in the boardroom and beyond. But cleverly titled, frou-frou, or more complex treatments do not appeal to the typical businessman. So, mastering the staples, such as the Gentleman’s Facial, manscaping, and a shave-and-a-haircut, are key to attracting this type of client.

The clientele at the Gendarmerie Boutique & Spa in West Hollywood, Calif., is comprised of 65 percent men who are mostly coming in for waxing services, haircuts and shaves. “Manscaping is bigger than ever. Every type of man is getting the Guyzilian [i.e., “Speedo” area and buttocks waxing, $99] and also keeping their eyebrows ($25) and chest/shoulder hair ($70) neat and clean,” says owner Topper Schroeder. “The Guyzilian is usually the girlfriend’s or wife’s idea, but once they get it, they keep coming back. Our straight razor shave ($75) is extremely popular now too.”

Schroeder also serves executives outside the spa by doing corporate business calls in offices.

“Companies will hire us as a gift to their hard-working employees and we’ll come in and do shoulder and back massages because they are hunched over their desks all day,” he says.

Catering your basic facial to the male client can be as easy as renaming it Gentleman’s or Executive Facial and making a few simple but important tweaks to the service. “Men prefer the squeaky clean, tight skin feeling so our estheticians don’t overload their skin with heavy products before they leave,” says Shawna Grant, director of operations at Skin Deep Laser Med Spa in Pasadena, Calif. “We also carry a skin care line geared specifically for men that includes an easy step-by-step program.” Skin Deep Laser Med Spa’s Customized Gentleman’s Facial (50 minutes, $105) includes the basics: a deep pore cleansing with steam, mechanical exfoliation, extractions, and a soothing mask and massage followed by an application of antioxidants and sun protection.

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The Athlete Complex treatments do not appeal to the typical businessman.

The Outdoorsman The outdoorsy type spends a lot of time with the sun, wind and elements wreaking havoc on his face during long hikes, rock climbing or surfing.

But, he’s not one for flowery spa treatments, so luring this type of man to the spa is all about creating treatments with titles that just scream, “This is for you guys!”

One great example of this is the One Tough Mug Facial (60 minutes, $105) at The Cove at Shore Lodge in McCall, Idaho. “In winter, our guests enjoy skiing and snowmobiling, and in the summer it’s hiking and boating,” says director of spa Nicole De Rosa. “After a long day on any of these excursions, the sun and wind certainly take their toll and our facial is designed to help combat those elements. It’s very hydrating for sunburned and wind chapped skin.”

Sarah Stacy, spa and wellness manager at Bloom Spa at The Sebastian - Vail – A Timbers Resort in Colorado, says their most popular treatment with the rugged types is their Crazy Mountain Pedicure (50 minutes, $85), which features a warm footbath filled with Crazy Mountain Brewery’s Pale Ale and a glass to drink as well.

“We cater this to men by using a Citrus Grass Salt Scrub for the exfoliation that is more abrasive than the sugar scrubs normally used,” she says.

Keeping scents clean is key to male satisfaction as well. “The scrub has a fresh scent and we use unscented shea butter lotion,” she adds.

The classic Sports Massage is another staple, but it needs to be highly customized to speak to all types of athletes. “One sports massage does not fit all anymore,” says Doug Elman, director of massage training for Hand & Stone Massage and Facial Spa, which has more than 250 locations nationwide.

“The consultation is very important here,” says Elman. “We always ask if they have an issue with any part of their body, but it’s also important to ask what sports or activities they engage in. For example, a golfer might have more issues with his shoulders from the swing or a tennis player with his elbows. Or, weightlifters are tighter in the chest.”

Prices for Hand & Stone’s 50-minute Sports Massage vary per location and whether the client is a member or not. Prices for members range from $49.95-$69.95, and $89.95-$109.95 for non-members.

Many spas are also creating massages pegged to a specific sport or type of athlete. The Spa at Omni Mount Washington Resort in Bretton Woods, N.H., for example, offers the Golfer’s/Skier’s Massage (50 minutes, $125 and 75 minutes, $160). With golfing being a top sport in the summer and skiing in the winter, the spa created a special massage that includes trigger-point therapy, deep tissue massage, and stretching to target the major muscle groups used in a golf swing or hitting the slopes all day.

The Toscana RX for Workout Warriors (90 minutes, $185 and 120 minutes, $245) at Spa Bella Vita at Toscana Country Club in Indian Wells, Calif., was created for the guy who engages in the specific activities offered at the club. “We moved away from the traditional sports massage to do something more interesting,” says Jennifer Di Francesco, director of the spa and sports club. “This is for the guy who has worked out in the gym, hiked, biked, or played golf or tennis.”

The treatment encompasses stretching and using warm herbal poultices, which are steamed and then carefully rolled over the body with compression to create relief from soreness. “This gets in immediately to target concerns from activity where the body is feeling the effects from the day,” says Di Francesco.

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The Hipster The Hipster likes cool music, good whiskey, and is up on all the latest trends. Speaking to his favorite hobbies is a great way to get him through the spa doors.

Since whiskey bars and tastings are on the rise, there’s been an uptick in spa treatments using this libation. The Spa and Fitness Centre at the Four Seasons Hotel in Chicago offers a Vintage Bourbon Massage, which includes a Bourbon Bubbler scrub with a mix of brown sugar and Kentucky bourbon, followed by a hot stone massage and a glass of their signature single-barrel bourbon. (Monday-Friday: 55 minutes, $160 or 80 minutes, $205; Friday-Sunday, 55 minutes, $170 or 80 minutes, $215) “Bourbon has become somewhat of a symbolic olive branch for gentlemen to have a treatment at the spa,” says spa director Gary Adkins. “It’s about creating a more appealing experience for our male guests, and they certainly appreciate it! Men can relax after an amazing massage with a delicious glass of bourbon in hand.”

The Rock Spa at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino chain created a spa menu for some of their locations with the music hipster in mind called Rhythm & Motion. The four treatments, which utilize amplified vibrations, pressures and patterns, include Synchronicity (massage, 50 minutes, $155 or 80 minutes, $205), Smooth Operator (dry brushing and wrap, 50 minutes, $145), Face the Music (facial, 50 minutes, $155 or 80 minutes, $205) and Wrap Remix (a detox wrap with a cleansing facial, 110 minutes, $295).

“Spa goers have traditionally visited with the intent to disconnect or unplug. Our experience is meant to plug you in, amp you up, and maybe even turn you on,” says Dale Hipsh, VP of hotel and casino operations development at Hard Rock International. “Times have changed and many spa operators haven’t evolved as technology and hospitality brands have. To this end, we went about seeking to discover a new way forward to enliven the senses, instill well-being, and infuse the spirit of music into our newly envisioned experience.”

The Synchronicity massage is the most popular. “It offers the familiarity of a Swedish massage, but music is the secret weapon. The therapist synchronizes movements with an expertly curated playlist as guests embark on a journey of the senses,” adds Hipsh.

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The Average Joe They say the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. To that end, the way to get the Average Joe into your spa seems to be through... beer!

The Barbershop, the men’s spa at Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa in Atlantic City, N.J., has a Barber & Brew special promotion that includes Shave & Haircut services (60 minutes, $65) with a bottle of beer. The spa itself features billiards and wide-screen televisions for watching sports games.

“It attracts a younger demographic, especially millennials and Generation X-ers. I think the inclusion of beer with a barber experience as a trend is an effective way to introduce male customers to the spa experience,” says Jennifer Aarons, director of spa operations at Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa. The Four Seasons Resort and Residences in Vail, Colo., has the Brew and Renew Treatments menu. It includes the Amber Ale Foot Soak (25 minutes, $75), which is filled with a fresh beer and features crushed barley and malt food scrub and a light foot rub using hop oil. The yeast from the beer offers a purifying and cleansing effect, which is helpful for mild fungal issues.

Also on the menu is the Brew and Renew Massage (50 minutes, $165/85 minutes, $235).

This massage features a hot stone session using warmed up cans of Crazy Mountain Brew. Guests can also enjoy the Beer Brew Bath (30 minutes, $55). Of course, the guest is served a nice cold beer along with these treatments. “The hops from beer provides a purifying and cleansing effect on the skin, and perfectly warmed beer cans used to massage the skin will melt away stress,” says Randi Alt, public relations manager for Four Seasons Resort and Residences Vail. “With 25 to 30 percent of our spa demographic consisting of men and that number continuing to rise, treatments that are intriguing, masculine, and relatable really continue to grow.”

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Profit from “Manpering” Your Clients

by Lydia Sarfati

“Manpering” and “Brotox”: These are just two of the trending buzzwords that indicate how far men have come when it comes to incorporating spa and medical esthetic treatments into their lives. In fact, according to the International Spa Association, men now comprise almost 50 percent of spa clientele. Men now are spending more time and money than ever before on improving their appearance as they seek success in both their professional and social lives, as they have become fully concerned with the image they present to the outside world.

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In turn, the professional beauty industry is seeing a larger percentage of male clientele seeking out the benefits of facials and body treatments. The men’s global grooming market is estimated to be $21.4 billion USD in 2016, up from 17.3 billion in 2012. These compelling statistics indicate that no spa or salon owner can achieve their full potential today without offering man-specific service offerings to satisfy this incrementally growing market.

The first step in capitalizing on this burgeoning market is to understand the unique needs of the male client.

Indeed, this is what led to the success of day spas in the 1980s and 90s — catering to the immediate needs of busy working women while providing them with services they didn’t even know they needed but soon found indispensible.

“The thing that is interesting is that men want to look their best but don’t necessarily want to commit to full-on medical procedures,” says Samuel Shatkin, M.D., plastic surgeon and owner of the Aesthetic Centre in Buffalo, N.Y. “What we are seeing is that men are more open now to having skin treatments — facials, express facials, massages for men, manicures, pedicures and the like. They are taking more of an initiative because they are competing in the workforce with younger people. It helps refresh the appearance, remove stress and makes them look more youthful. Even Botox and peels are becoming less taboo.”

Male Specific Skin Concerns As men are spending more time and money than ever before on improving their appearance for success in both their professional and social lives, spa owners and estheticians must be educated on the inherent differences between male and female skin.

Razor burn is the number one skin complaint spa owners hear from male clientele. Men have sensitive skin, which 82

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many of them have mistreated throughout their lives. The spa can provide them with education on how to shave properly and protect their skin before and after.

Large pores and sebaceous glands also plague men, as their skin tends to be characterized by excess oil and numerous blackheads. Ironically, their skin can be both excessively oily and have surface dryness. Male skin can also often become dehydrated from harsh soaps and shampoos, as well as frequent hot showers. Men need hydrating products and treatments that offer deep pore cleansing and refining.

Aging is another primary concern.

Many male baby boomers have hyperpigmentation from years of working in the yard and playing golf without sun-

screen. They also have crow’s feet and dark under-eye circles from long days of squinting at computer screens and working late hours. In addition, male millennials are coming into the workplace with a more evolved approach to grooming, and a mindset that it’s okay to care about the condition of their skin.

The Basics When working with the male species in the treatment room, take the following factors into consideration: Avoid using perfumed and fragrant products in the treatment room. Men already may be feeling apprehensive about having a facial, so keep the service as clean and simple as possible.

Cater to specific needs by incorporat-

IT’S RAINING MEN GUIDE

Cater to specific needs by incorporating grooming services such as trimming eyebrows, nostril hair and ear hair.

ing grooming services such as trimming eyebrows, nostril hair and ear hair.

Men do not want to walk out of your spa with red, blotchy skin caused by an aggressive extraction session. You might as well place a flashing red neon sign around their necks announcing, “I just spent the last hour getting a facial at my wife’s spa!” Consider additional post-treatment services to calm skin, apply products and even concealing makeup.

When deciding on which retail line to carry for males, keep in mind the type of packaging they prefer. Avoid pink or red, and instead stick to sleek and simple. Choose products that can be sprayed on quickly, and swap jars for bottles with pumps that can easily be packed in gym bags and travel luggage.

Merchandise retail to emphasize qualities such as “non-greasy,” “rinses off easily” and “protects the skin.”“Perfume-free,” “color-free,” “calming” and “stress-reducing” are good buzzwords to use when describing offerings to appeal to men.

Let’s take a look at the services you can provide for your male client, including those that anticipate their growing needs, as well as “man-pering” treatments for the more discriminating male.

Targeted Treatments Men are results-oriented clients, making them ideal candidates for many targeted treatments, ranging from express sheet masks to full face and body treatments.

To entice men to try targeted treatments, language on your menu and treatment descriptions should emphasize the benefits, rather than the pampering, luxe, “spa day” approach. See more on creating menu language targeted to men in “Designing a Male Spa Menu: Adding services just for him” on page 88.

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Treatment tips: Sheet masks nourish, rehydrate and eliminate signs of redness and irritation.

Incorporate under-eye sheet masks into shaving/trimming services to reduce redness and puffiness. Utilize products with nourishing ingredients that don’t carry a feminine scent.

Express face treatments targeting specific skin male concerns such as acne or rosacea can ultimately leave skin looking hydrated and soothed, never red and blotchy.

Full face and body treatments performed by two estheticians simultaneously provide the ultimate experience and results to satisfy male clients.

Examples include services that incorporate back and neck massage, hand and foot treatments, as well as face and body masks.

Duration and price: Between 10 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the type of treatment, ranging from $20 for upgrades to $200+ for extended services.

Frequency: As often as once a week.

Back Cleansing Facial Combining massage with skin treatment for the back is particularly popular among men, especially to treat “bacne”. Although it shouldn’t be performed the same day, this could be a particularly important treatment to perfect the skin following a back wax.

Treatment tips: Steam and deep cleanse with a pore refining cleanser and stimulating brush.

Remove cleanser with hot towels infused with aromatherapeutic oils, and massage the back with a lightweight cream for 10 minutes, followed by a body scrub massage, also removed with a hot towel.

Complete treatment with a soothing antibacterial mask followed by a refreshing application of cooling, toning astringent.

Duration and price: 30 minutes, $95-$120.

Frequency: Once a month.

Waxing Many modern men now seek out brow, ear, nose and body waxing on a regular basis, so it is essential for your spa to provide these essential grooming services. Ideal wax for male clients includes natural ingredients that provide fast, pain-free hair removal for large areas such as the back and chest, as well as smaller areas like toes and hands.

Treatment tips: While waxing for men is typically done on different parts of the body for men than women, prepare large areas of the skin for waxing just as you would for a leg wax, with a spray of alcohol followed by dry brushing to lift up the hairs.

Follow soft wax removal with an application of cool skin relief gel, followed by a massage using nourishing oils.

For sensitive grooming areas such as the ears, nose and between brows, it is essential to use hard wax. Apply warm wax with a disposable stick to areas of hair inside ears and nostrils, allow it to cool for several minutes before gently tugging to remove.

Duration and price: Back: 45 minutes, $60; Chest: 45 minutes, $40; Arms: 30 minutes, $45; Hands and fingers: 15 minutes, $15; Ears, nose and brows: 10 minutes, $15-$25.

Frequency: As needed.

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Teeth Whitening “Teeth whitening as a cosmetic dentistry procedure has always been a popular option with men,” says Todd Shatkin, a cosmetic dentist at Aesthetic Centre Buffalo, N.Y. “The main thing men are looking for in teeth whitening is to look and feel better about themselves. They know that in the workplace, it’s an advantage to look younger, feel younger, and have a brighter smile. Your mouth is the first thing a person looks at when you are speaking, so it’s very important for both men and women to have an attractive smile.”

Treatment tips: Following a teeth whitening procedure, instruct clients to avoid foods and beverages with a high level of pigment for 24 hours to allow the enamel pores to close to prevent re-staining.

Examples of such foods include coffee, tomato-based foods, yellow mustard and red wine.

Provide clients with a home maintenance kit to sustain results following the treatment.

Average duration and price: A 45-minute period in a series of three sessions (clients with more intense stains may need additional sessions). Price ranges from approximately $400-$600 for inoffice treatments.

it’s very important for both men and women to have an attractive smile

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Man Peels Spa peels are one key way many of today’s men now rejuvenate their skin without resorting to plastic surgery.

These help eliminate fine lines and wrinkles, remove aging hyperpigmentation from sun exposure and create a healthier, more youthful appearance.

Treatment tips: Thoroughly cleanse and tone the face before applying a peeling agent with a brush. Best choices for a cleansing exfoliation include an enzyme-based formula. For a more anti-aging effect that can help remove hyperpigmentation spots as well, a glycolic formula can be very effective. Both treatments gently remove dead skin cells from the skin surface to smooth fine lines.

Augment results with the use of galvanic current treatments, as well as soothing sheet masks following the peel.

Duration and price: 15 minutes to an hour (hour-long services are more typical when incorporating additional services such as galvanic treatments).

Prices start at $35.

way of shaving, which involves applying a shaving foam with a traditional shaving brush on the skin and then shaving with a straight razor. Afterward, apply a cold towel and aftershave to moisturize skin and help close the pores.

Many man-savvy salons and spas are offering facial treatment upgrades following shaving services, from express sheet masks to full-on facial treatments.

These treatments further hydrate and nourish the skin, eliminating razor burn and rejuvenating the skin.

Price and Duration: A full shaving/ trimming service takes 15 - 45 minutes. Costs range from $20 to $40 for a shave, with additional charges for upgrades. Men may need to return for beard trimming and shaving at least once a week.

“Man” Icures And Pedicures Men are now coming into spas and salons for manicures and pedicures.

Some are seeking relief for issues that arise from being on the move, affecting all types of males, from businessmen to athletes.

Treatment tips: The basic manicure or pedicure protocols remain the same for men and women, the main difference being that polish is most often not applied. More time may be given to buffing the nails, as in a sports manicure or pedicure.

Intensive hand or foot treatments can be incorporated, which include exfoliating treatments and massage with glycolic peels or intensive scrubs, to be applied to feet or hands, removed with a warm towel, sprayed with a toner and followed by a hand or foot massage with a rich, nutritive cream.

Duration and price: Range from 30 minutes to an hour, and priced from $30 - $50.

Frequency: Once a week or more.

Lydia Sarfati is the president and founder of Repêchage.

She is the honorary chair of EstheticsAmerica, CIDESCO USA and the Skin Care & Spa Council Director of Intercoiffure North America. Sarfati is the recipient of numerous prestigious industry awards, including LNE & Spa’s Crystal Award. Email her at Lydia@repechage.com.

Shaving And Trimming With more men now opting for facial hair, maintaining the ideal beard shape and hydrated skin is key to looking clean and well groomed and free of skin irritation.

Treatment tips: Prepare the skin with a pre-shave oil, and place a hot towel on skin to help open the pores, soften the skin and facilitate the shaving.

There are a variety of methods to choose from. Consider the “old school”

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IT’S RAINING MEN GUIDE

Designing

aMale Spa Menu

Adding services just for him

by Maureen Castellon

Men are elusive spa goers who want the benefit of treatments without the social stigma of once-rigid gender norms reflected in menus. They also want to be provided verbiage that allows them to feel comfortable and knowledgeable when booking services. Since 2012, products targeted to males have increased by 70 percent, with men expecting to find services at their local spas.

Grooming rituals have evolved in recent years from basic shaving and cologne to a personal sense of style. Today’s males face unprecedented competition for both jobs and mates, and looking professional and groomed has become an unofficial requirement for climbing the corporate ladder as well as gaining female attention. Today’s grooming focuses are nails that are buffed, not bitten, alongside youthful skin and a sense of well-being that emanates confidence.

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s a direct result, men want to patronize the spa to groom, and have options that appeal to them, not just try to fit into more female standards. Targeting men should — ironically — be as delicate as possible. Your menu should reflect this evolution, one encouraging word at a time.

Understand male needs Men have been intimidated by the spagoing experience, and the language on menus can make them feel unwelcome. The most important aspect when potential guests view the menu is one that addresses their specific pain points in a manner that allows for complete understanding. It is no secret that men are from Mars and women are from

services. Menus should incorporate the concept of body treatment with the presenting benefit of stress relief.

Descriptions should be results-driven, so rather than communicating the process of the massage, focus on the after effects with labels such as “soothe” and “relieve” rather than “pamper”.

Focus on the concept of stress relief on a deeper level that allows them to preserve their sense of masculinity during the spa experience.

Empower treatments Men are open to getting pedicures — not for esthetic reasons such as being on trend with the latest seasonal color, but because they have concerns such as ingrown nails and preventing athlete’s foot. In honor of this, focus

Males prefer treatments that provide the benefit of being extra clean.

Venus, with varying skin needs as well as expectations with choices that reflect such. With thicker and oilier skin, male needs have to be addressed in a way that speaks to them. Avoid floral scents and be mindful that men may elect not to talk as much as their female counterparts. Men, however, do report appreciating the soothing atmosphere of a spa in much the same way women escape for designated “me” time.

Open with massages Men today have different experiences and expectations than their grandfathers or even their fathers. Modern males must navigate a world in which competition is global and fierce. With so much resting on their shoulders, massages serve as a gateway to other 90

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or rename pedicures as the “Foot Grooming Ritual”, the “NBA Special”, “Foot Therapy” or “Courtside Scrub”.

Consider highlighting hand or foot treatments on the menu in a separate section. Some spas have incorporated ingredients such as beer to appeal to the male masses. Review your current menu to see where ingredient tweaking may work. Men prefer less fragrant ingredients and those that are part of their life outside of the spa, which can add a comforting layer of familiarity.

Rename facials A male who is already hesitant to choose esthetic services might find it emasculating to select from the same options offered to their female counterparts. Men have oilier, warmer and

thicker skin that is generally prone to ingrown hair from shaving. Males prefer treatments that provide the benefit of being extra clean. Therefore, market facials as “face treatments”, “treatments of the face” or “scrubs” — not facials.

Encourage boys’ entry Some spas have designed a separate, “guys only” menu for men, while others have explored a unisex approach.

The majority of male clients may have had their significant others book their services and it may be easier to have one menu that is accessible to both genders. However, men may prefer being specifically addressed concerning their needs. Either do away with the standard female oriented menu and create one just for men, written with wording to be male responsive — or create a unisex menu with genderneutral descriptions.

Bundle up The hardest part of acquiring and maintaining male clients is getting them through the door. Once there, they are more apt to be game for other services, provided that the massage is the drawing point. A deep tissue massage can be the gateway for a back facial or a pedicure. Give packages unique monikers that are in their realm of reference such as with cars or sports. Men want to be taken care of and are loyal when they feel comfortable and appreciated.

Welcome men into your spa with the right words and they will follow up with consistent action.

Maureen Castellon is the associate editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques and Spa and an adjunct writing professor at Miami Dade College. She graduated with honors from the English department at the University of Alabama and currently blogs at sirenpublications.com. When not writing about beauty, Castellon can be found meditating on the beach with her German Shepherd.

IT’S RAINING MEN GUIDE

MAKEUP SERVICES Male beautifying trends

W

forHim •

by Shawn Towne

hispered about in racConcealing & Correction quetball clubs and board rooms, passed discreetMany men suffer from common issues ly between friends and hidden in including dark under eye circles and the medicine cabinets of stylish men adult acne, so complexion products coast to coast is the unspoken men’s are the first makeup investment many personal care trend that has become gentlemen make. Professionals are very popular, but seldom teaching men how to professed. The days of apply foundations, conmakeup for men have cealers and lightweight arrived, and spa profespowders to look their Spa sionals are not only probest at work and play. professionals viding men with makeup, Complimentary tutoriare not only they’re teaching them als are usually given with how to use it. the purchase of makeup providing men Is it really surprising products. Choose your with makeup, that men are taking adproduct line carefully. A they’re vantage of a tool that high-quality mineral line gives them a healthier is an excellent choice beteaching appearance? We’ve alcause the foundations them how ready seen the rise of look like healthy skin, to use it. male skin care regimens not makeup. and spa protocols, and now, makeup products Brow and Lash are also becoming mainstream. With Tinting or Extensions this new men’s movement comes a need for products specifically designed Many men prefer having their brows for men’s skin. In the case of male makeand lashes tinted, or receive lash extenup, it’s not about making and selling sions, for more intensity with less mainmore products. Remember that men, tenance. Tinting covers greys and gives who are often unfamiliar with the art of definition, while extensions offer fullness makeup, need a thorough beginner’s and length for a more youthful appearcourse on how to apply these products. ance. These services can be done alone Thus, lessons become a lucrative necesor following a brow wax. Professionals sity. Take a look at some of the options charge anywhere from $20 to $60 for a for men who want to wear makeup: basic lash and brow tint.

Eye Enhancement Subtle mascaras, liners and brow products are becoming increasingly popular in men’s makeup, particularly among men who enjoy nightlife. Undetectable in most club and evening lighting, they can give a sultry, sexy look to men who are interested in upping their allure.

For a lesson teaching men how to apply these products, professionals are charging anywhere from $40 to $100.

Timing is important when introducing men to the concept of makeup. It is a conversation to approach discreetly while he’s in the facial room, waxing station or haircutting chair, a time when he is open to the idea of improving his appearance. It comes down to knowing your customer and how to position the idea so it feels best for him.

Shawn Towne is a global educator for jane iredale with more than 28 years of makeup artistry experience.

Towne’s portfolio includes editorial work in fashion and beauty publications around the world and runway artistry for New York Fashion Week shows

by Badgley Mischka, Tracy Reese and Oscar De La Renta. Towne educates professionals across the globe while collaborating on product launches and creative projects for jane iredale. His commentary has been featured in top publications including Allure and Marie Claire.

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hroughout the ages, male tattoos have served as a rite of passage (sailors), declarations of bravery (military men) or protection (captives). By the 1900s, visible body art was more widely accepted. In our digital age, tattoos are more than needles on the skin; they serve as personal statements that may also improve or detract from certain features. In male esthetics, they can now be customized to create enhancements and corrective masterpieces for clients.

PERMANENT MAKEUP

for

Men

Enhancing male allure with cosmetic tattoos

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IT’S RAINING MEN GUIDE

Better Brows Well-groomed eyebrows are no longer only sought after by women. More men are now focused on maintaining their brows without the feminine look of overtweezing or being overdone. This brow consciousness has also drawn attention to the missing hairs in their brows due to scars or simply aging. Permanent makeup is a great solution for filling in missing areas with hair strokes to complete a natural and customized brow shape, reclaiming a more youthful but still manly look.

Time: Approximately one hour.

Cost: $350-$650, including one touch-up.

Longevity of results: Two to five years.

Longevity depends on depth of color selected.

Guy-liner Guy-liner has become quite popular in permanent makeup for men. A subtle and soft amount of color tattooed between the eyelashes creates a handsome frame and makes a man’s eyes look more interesting, even making their lashes appear fuller. This is a desirable effect, as women’s current obsession with full eyelashes has also permeated the male species. Guy-liner is a great option for men with very light eyelashes, as a taupe frame can be tattooed and platinum lashes can be tinted. This combination is powerful and handsome. It makes a particularly great solution for a natural blonde client.

Time: 45-90 minutes, depending on treated area.

Cost: $550, including one initial touch-up.

Longevity of results: Two to five years, depending on depth of color selected.

Lip Tattooing for Men A natural lip shade can be tattooed on a man, just like a woman. Often, scars

from childhood that run through their lips take out their natural lip color. These areas can be filled in with a soft, natural and matching lip shade that conceals these scarred areas quite well.

to be tattooed.

Longevity of results: Two to four years, depending on lifestyle (UV exposure, climate, tanning beds and retinols or glycolic acid can shorten lifespan of results).

Time: 45-90 minutes, depending on size of treated area.

Cost: $350-$550, including one initial touch-up. Fee depends on size of treated area.

Longevity of results: Approximately three years, depending on lifestyle (UV exposure, climate, tanning beds and retinols or glycolic acid can shorten lifespan of results).

Scars and vitiligo tattooing

Scalp Micro-Pigmentation Scalp micro-pigmentation is now very much in-demand! More than ever, men are deciding to shave their heads or wear a close buzz cut rather than hold onto thinning or stringy hair. Particular areas of the scalp and even full heads can be tattooed to create the convincing appearance of actual hairs. Scalp micropigmentation must be performed by a professional trained specifically in scalp tattooing, or a man can run the risk of having unsightly dots permanently tattooed on his head.

Another popular scalp procedure for men using permanent makeup is covering scars from hair transplants. Often, men begin hair transplant surgery only to later find they don’t have enough donor sites or that they cannot afford the costly surgery. Once aborted, they are left with two or more residual scars going across the entire back of their heads, and sometimes even traveling around to the sides. These telltale signs are unsightly and can be camouflaged with tattooing.

Time: 45 minutes to several hours, depending on size of area being tattooed.

Cost: Ranges from $250 to several thousand dollars, depending on size of area

Scar camouflage isn’t limited to men’s scalps.

Residual scarring from accidents and burns can be camouflaged, as well as vitiligo, which is an autoimmune disorder affecting the melanin in the skin. Basically, areas that are void of color and create an undesirable contrast to the surrounding areas can be tattooed to match that surrounding skin.

Time: 45 minutes to several hours, depending on size of area.

Cost: $250 to several thousand dollars, depending on size of area.

Longevity of results: Two to four years, depending on lifestyle (UV exposure, climate, tanning beds and retinols or glycolic acid can shorten lifespan of results).

Breast Cancer Survivors Breast cancer in males is becoming more prevalent. Men who have had bilateral mastectomies require a 3-D nipple/areola complex that appears realistic. This procedure is convincing and helps restore a man’s confidence.

Time: One hour.

Cost: $350 per areola.

Longevity of results: Two to four years, depending on lifestyle (UV exposure, climate, tanning beds and retinols or glycolic acid can shorten lifespan of results).

Rose Marie Beauchemin is the owner and director of education for the Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics. She has 25 years of experience in makeup artistry and color theory. For more information, visit beauinstitute.com or call 888.763.2328.

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MALE

SPA

Avoiding embarrassment for clients and spa therapists

by Caroline Canetti

There are some key differences between male and female spa clients. For one, most therapists report that men talk less during their treatments. But, on the flip side, men make more faux pas in the treatment room that can be tricky to deal with. While some can be embarrassing or awkward, there are ways to carefully handle these situations with tact to put both the client and therapist at ease.

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ERECTIONS For many men, the combination of being naked, being touched and feeling good can result in an erection. It’s a basic physical reaction. It’s usually more awkward for him than it is for the therapist. Topper Schroeder, owner of The Gendarmerie Boutique & Spa in West Hollywood, Calif., says that one of his top massage therapists reports that about 90 percent of men get aroused on his table.

“You ignore it. You just ignore it,” advises Schroeder. “You don’t want to embarrass him, and we know that it’s a natural reaction when someone is very relaxed. You can’t blame him. They didn’t do anything wrong. They are probably embarrassed too.” Schroeder offers one more key tip: “Wait until the kickstand is down before you turn him over.”

Unwanted Attention There aren’t many therapists who haven’t been hit on, flirted with, or felt a creepy vibe from a client at least once in their career. In fact, every time Scott Kerschbaumer, co-owner of ESSpa Kozmetika Organic Skincare and eDryBar.com, which has multiple locations in Pennsylvania and Florida, goes to his country club, there’s at least one guy who asks how good-looking our staff is, if so-and-so therapist is single, or jokes about “happy endings.”

“We did have one repeat male massage client who after several appointments just kept creeping out our female therapist — nothing blatant, but just a creepy vibe. Our solution was to stop scheduling him with that particular therapist. He eventually stopped coming in to the spa, which was fine with us,” says Kerschbaumer.

“Happy Ending” Requests Shockingly, this happens more often than one would expect. Kerschbaumer says that ESSpa has had several incidents of men asking for this sexual ser96

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New male spa-goers need special handling. vice. If the client asks about this service on the phone, ESSpa simply logs the name and phone number and blocks them from booking a treatment.

But, when it happens in the treatment room, they stop the treatment immediately and follow this protocol: “The therapist tells the client that he’s broken our rules, has to get dressed immediately, and will be escorted out of the building,” explains Kerschbaumer.

“The therapist then leaves the room and waits for a short period of time for the client to dress, and then takes them to the front desk — in front of the front staff — and explains what happened and that he is no longer welcome. The spa updates their files with the information to flag his account so he cannot book future appointments, and files an internal incident report.”

Newbie Nerves Although men make up approximately 47 percent of spa-goers nationwide according to the International SPA Association Foundation, that still leaves a large percentage of men who are spa virgins. New male spa-goers need special handling.

Shawna Grant, director of operations at Skin Deep Laser Med Spa in Pasadena, Calif., says that spa treatments can be very intimidating to male clients — especially new ones — so you want to introduce things slowly.

“Engage him by getting to know his routine. But don’t overwhelm him with conversation about ingredients, treatment recommendations, etc., right off

the bat,” she says.

Also, don’t forget to provide sample products. “That is a great way to get the new male spa-goer exposed to what you are recommending without chatting up a storm in the treatment room,” adds Grant.

Newbies also need to understand the process. “Some of our male guests appreciate being explained the reasoning behind the treatment process and why certain approaches are beneficial,” says Nicole De Rosa, director of spa at The Cove in Shore Lodge in McCall, Idaho. “This makes for a strong bond between practitioner and guest, thus making it much easier to recommend additional suggestions or treatments.”

The Silent Types Studies show that women are chattier than men and this remains true in the spa treatment room as well. Unlike with most women, “men typically do not like to talk, so I advise our therapists to limit conversation,” notes Grant. “We recommend that the therapist gets a feel for the male client by asking just a couple of important questions, such as ‘What does your daily regimen consist of?’ and ‘What areas are your main concern?’”

Jennifer Di Francesco, director of spa and sports club at the Toscana Country Club in Indian Wells, Calif., agrees. “You want to explain the treatment in a short and sweet way — just the nuts and bolts,” she says. “Men mostly want to hear the benefits of what is going to happen in their service.”

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Caviar of Switzerland Cellular Repair Serum caviarofswitzerland.us

Turo Skin

Multi-Active Shave turoskin.com

Meg 21

Cell Therapy meg21.com

Phytomer Homme

Rasage Perfect AlcoholFree Soothing Aftershave phytomer.fr/en/

Sprayology

Man Power Homeopathic Spray Snore Snoozer Homeopathic Spray sprayology.com

Nature Pure Labs

Hydravita Skin Restoring Gel naturepureshop.com

Kerstin Florian

Clarifying Berry Plus Repair Serum kerstinorianusa.com

Crystal Peel

Microdermabrasion Facial Exfoliater and Pre-Shave Formula for Men crystalpeel.org

PFB Vanish

Man Mask pfbvanish.com

Dr. Grandel

Matt IQ 24 Hr Cream grandel.com

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BelleCôte

Volanic Mud Cleanser bellecoteparis.com

Makeup by Mer

DaPER Lip Scrub makeupbymer.com

Transderma M Guinot Tres Homme

Moisturizing Serum mytransderma.com

Longue Vie Homme Face Cream Serum guinotusa.com

Matis

Reponse Homme Global Anti-ageing Active Cream matis-paris.com

Soaptopia

Eucalyptus Shaving Soap & Shaving Dish soaptopia.com

iS Clinical

Hydra-Cool Serum isclinical.com

Biodroga

GR8/SKN

After Shave Balm biodroga.com

B4UClean Pre-Cleansing Oil gr8skin.com

Spongellé

Men’s Super Buffer spongelle.com

Lucky Tiger

After Shave and Face Tonic getluckytiger.com

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ra for Men

Complex VI Hydrating Serum ramethod.com

Académie Scientifique de Beauté

Easy Shaving even on a Three Days’ Stubble Cleansing and non-foaming gel academiebeaute.com

Pure Light

Timber Massage Flame Candle massageflame.com

BB Nail Polish

Couture for Men Nail Lacquer “Intake Valve” bbnailpolish.com

FarmHouse Fresh

Bourbon Bubbler Body Scrub farmhousefresh.com

BiON

Naturally Clean Body Wash bionresearch.com

Kneipp

Juniper Muscle Soothing Bath kneippus.com

Timeless Truth

TT Athletics Cool Blast Charcoal Mask timelesstruthcosmetics.com

Skin, An Apothecary

Mugs and Legs skinanapothecary.com

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RéjuvaSea

Refine Exfoliating Cleanser rejuvasea.com

Man Stuff

Man Wash manstuffinc.com

Repêchage

Beauty From the Sea Kit repechage.com

Depilève

Vivoderm

Bronze Wax for Men depileve.com

Zinc Repairing Facial Cream vivoderm.com

Enessa

Seaweed Bio Exfoliant enessa.com

The Refinery

Shave Foam Gel the-refinery.com

Saian Natural Cleaner

Active Cleanser saian.net

Pencil Me In

Classic Colors Pencil Set menseyeliner.com

Bon Vital’

Peppermint & Eucalyptus Body Butter bonvital.com

Nufree 4 Men Only Undress Their Skin nufree.com

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

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Carotenoids like beta-carotene, lycopene and lutein are among the main antioxidants that protect skin against free radical attack.

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Skin Care

Properties of

Carotenoids Mother Nature’s Anti-Aging Wonders

by Szilvia Hickman

If

you’re looking for a new, all natural way to provide your clients with radiant, healthy looking skin, consider embracing the wonderful benefits that carotenoids offer for beauty and health from the inside out.

What are Carotenoids?

Carotenoids are a class of antioxidants that have been shown to promote longevity, fight cancer, support a strong immune system and even give skin a natural, healthy glow. These phytonutrients, or "plant chemicals", are found in the

cells of a wide variety of plants, algae and bacteria. Carotenoids help plants absorb light energy for use in photosynthesis. These pigments create the bright red, yellow and orange hues found in many fruits and vegetables, and play an important role in plant health.

It is estimated that more than 600 different carotenoids like beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, lutein, cryptoxanthins and zea-xanthins are distributed throughout the plant and algae world. Beta-carotene is the most studied, and also the most physiologically and nutritionally important member of the carotene family.

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SKIN CARE PROPERTIES OF CAROTENOIDS

Although different types of carotenoids have independent functions, many can be metabolized into vitamin A in the human body, which is necessary for healthy vision and cell growth.

Beta-carotene is the most prevalent carotenoid in plant food sources, and is known as being pro-vitamin A. The most abundant carotenoids in human tissues are alpha-carotene, betacarotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin and lycopene. A small number of carotenes, including fatsoluble beta-carotene, are precursors to production of vitamin A in the body.

Excess retinol is stored in the liver and synthesized into active vitamin A in times of need. Lycopene, lutein and zeaxanthin cannot be converted into vitamin A, though they provide other health benefits. Numerous clinical studies have demonstrated the benefits of topical and oral supplements of carotenoids in terms of improving the appearance of skin.

Nutritional Benefits Diets rich in antioxidants are known to help immune systems, protect against free radicals and lower the risk of developing cancer and heart disease.

The different varieties of carotenoids all act as antioxidants with strong cancerfighting properties, protecting cells from free radicals that work to destroy cell membranes and DNA. Studies have also suggested that carotenoids may help prevent skin, breast and prostate cancer. They may even help reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease by preventing the oxidation of cholesterol in arteries.

Foods rich in beta-carotene include apricots, carrots, cantaloupe, spinach, sweet potatoes, kale, romaine lettuce and squash. Many herbs and spices are also rich in carotenoids, such as basil, chili powder, oregano, paprika and parsley.

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Topical Benefits As powerful antioxidants, carotenoids have properties that protect the skin against damage. Here are some key beauty benefits of carotenoids in topical application:

Anti-aging

Research has shown that topical vitamin A in the form of retinol and retinoic acid fights wrinkles by stimulating collagen production. When collagen becomes damaged due to UV exposure and other aggressors, wrinkles begin to develop.

Retinoids then “turn on” the cells responsible for making new collagen, strengthening skin and filling in fine lines below the surface so skin texture is improved and looks smoother.

Evens complexion

Creams rich in beta-carotene can lighten areas of sun-induced brown spots, also known as skin pigmentation or melasma. Beta-carotene boosts skin radiance by increasing skin cell turnover, helping to shed pigmented, damaged and rough surface cells. This invites new, healthier cells to the surface, and enables light to reflect from the complexion more evenly.

Sun safe glow

Topical application of beta-carotene imparts a healthy, natural glow because of the distinct orange color of beta-carotene. While the quantities contained in skin care products won’t make the skin turn orange, this nutrient is used in some products as a coloring agent, as the orange pigment gives skin a sun-kissed glow without the sun.

Fights acne

When applied directly onto the skin, retinoids slough off dead skin cells, which, if not removed, cause pimples and clogged pores to appear. In addition, vitamin A stimulates cell turnover, sparking the same process within the pores themselves, helping to slow oil production and keep pores clear.

O&W

ORAL SUPPLEMENTATION SUN PROTECTION

SKIN CARE PROPERTIES OF CAROTENOIDS

To promote glowing skin for your clients, encourage them to skip the sun worship this summer. Instead, educate them on how a healthy combination of a carotenoid-rich diet and skin care can give them gorgeous looking skin all year long.

SUPPORTING RESEARCH Chew et al. “Long-Term Effects of Vitamins C, E, Beta-Carotene and Zinc on AgeRelated Macular Degeneration.” Ophthalmology, published online April 11, 2013.

Köpcke W1, Krutmann J. Protection from sunburn with beta-Carotene--a meta-analysis. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):284-8. Epub 2007 Dec 15.

Szilvia Hickman is co-owner and senior vice president of Szép Élet, the exclusive distributor of ilike organic skin care. She is also a member of the Green Spa Network Personal Care Product Committee (greenspanetwork.org). For more information on ilike organic skin care products call 888.290.6238 or visit szepelet.com. Hickman can be reached at shickman@szepelet.com.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #156 on reader service card

Beta-carotene is often referred to as the “sun vitamin”, as studies show that it reduces the skin’s sensitivity to sun. According to a meta-analysis published in the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, researchers looked at several studies and found that participants who took betacarotene supplements for 10 weeks had lower rates of sunburn than those who didn’t take the supplements. For each month of additional supplementation, the protection level increased. As a strong antioxidant, it also fights free radical activity caused

by UV light, pollution or other environmental damage. The carotenoid lycopene has also been shown to decrease the effects of skin damage caused by sunlight.

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Healing with COLOR TOOLS TO IMPLEMENT COLORS INTO YOUR SPA

by Maureen Castellon

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T

he recent trend in adult coloring books prove we all need color in our lives to decompress.

We humans are visual creatures that absorb light through our eyes and skin. Color therapy creates balance within the mental, emotional and physical energy fields.

Our bodies can be divided into two energy transport systems from the East. The meridian philosophy from China delivers energies of light to the body via meticulously charted organs and glands. India’s chakra system specifies that spirals of light are stored along the spinal column’s major nerve ganglia. The whorls of energy conduct flows of concentrated color, which correspond to emotional classifications along the body. Spas can incorporate color in a therapeutic capacity in a multitude of ways once their true nature is understood.

The practice of applying specific colors to the body as a form of therapy to restore well-being has been recorded throughout ancient Egyptian, Greek and Eastern cultures.

This form of treatment harkens back to pre-scientific classification when gatherer s deter mined the healing quality of plants according to their colors. Additionally, energy transported through hues, colors or fabrics powerfully sped along the healing process. Imbalances caused by all forms of lifestyle or stress creates the need for cells to seek color exposure as a means of rebalancing.

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A SPECTRUM OF MEANING

Blue skies and blue seas are soothing because of the hue’s icy tones. The marine color deeply relaxes the body and mind for complete well-being. It also is said to aid in the brisk recovery from herpes as well as symptoms of itching. Imbalances from the thyroid, tension in the upper body, and oral issues are thought to be remedied with increased exposure to blue, given its famous anti-inflammatory properties.

Whereas too much blue creates melancholy and a dearth creates feelings of victimization, the perfect balance can be seen in the ability to calmly express feelings and thoughts.

Red is a hot color that evokes passion with an effect that combines mental and physical stimulation. It is a power color to combat dullness and the tendency to be idle. The color is effective in treating congestion, bones and muscles including the heart. Red creates excitement for life and harnesses feelings of euphoria when in balance.

Violet is a color with deeply spiritual connotations for its tranquility-inducing effects, which impart a feeling of universal connection to higher energies. It aids in the balancing of the pineal and pituitary glands, supports and calms the nervous system, and increases mental functioning resulting from deeply restorative sleep.

An inundation of violet can create impractical fancies while a deficit can generate close-minded behaviors. A harmony of violet infuses the creative compassion necessary to be a visionary.

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Red creates excitement for life and harnesses feelings of euphoria when in balance.

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Yellow is a life-giving color much like the sun.

It has an uplifting effect and can aid in proper digestion. Yellow signifies selfesteem and a sense of self-worth. It is a great color to use during lymphatic treatments, and it is renowned for building collagen which amps up elasticity. Some spas use it in treatments to lessen the appearance of highly visible face and neck wrinkles. Too much yellow causes a lack of focus that is attracted to creating drama, while an overflow can generate a lack of motivation due to fears. Balancing with yellow can stimulate left-brain activity for maximum intellectual alertness.

Indigo is an excellent healer for a multitude of skin conditions as it regulates heat in the body. The color harmonizes the pineal and pituitary glands as well as the sinuses and focus. A glut of indigo generates inconsideration for others, while a lack creates conflict avoidance, which can infix addiction as a coping mechanism. A balance imbues good citizenship characterized by a focus on justice and willingness to be of service.

Orange enhances both mental and physical energy. As a blend of red and yellow, orange sparks creativity. Use of this color balances issues with kidneys, intestinal distress, and the lower spine and sacroiliac joints, which absorb shocks from the spinal column and pelvis. The color strengthens the immune system, but too much of it results in confusion and too little causes self-destruction in the form of loneliness and depression. When in balance, there is a sense of inspiration and creative actions, as seen when morning exposure to the hue energizes the system for the day.

Green is the master balancing hue that is a blend of blue and yellow. Studies have shown that simply walking through verdant forestry can create a deeply calming effect. Green represents the lushness of youth. Favorable influences have been recorded in the heart, lungs, endocrine and circulatory system. It stimulates the pituitary gland, the master gland, and can flush out toxins present in all chronic conditions. Too much green can result in jealousies, while too little can result in irritability and exhaustion, which can lead to panic disorders. Perfect amounts of green promote a consistent flow of contentment.

COLOR COMBINATIONS A pairing of red and blue is ideal for acne. Alternate the hues as blue battles the bacteria that causes acne while red stimulates collagen and elastin production. Orange and blue can treat glandular and hormonal challenges as they balance the endocrine system. Green can be used as a starter for other color therapies as it maximizes effectiveness beforehand.

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SPA IMPLEMENTATION OPTIONS

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Colorful Baths

Colorpuncture

Color Clay Treatments

A relaxing bath can act as a rebirth.

Tub water is set to warm temperature complete with magnesium bath salts to release pent up lactic acid.

The colorful bath can come either before a massage or as a standalone treatment. The healing process is accelerated via light stimulation to raise energy in the chakras as well as increase blood flow. Colors are said to match with powerful emotions that should be honored to produce well-being and a sense of flow in life. Rhonda King Clark, staff supervisor at Bretton Woods Spa in Mount Washington, N.H., is enthusiastic about the treatment as patrons experience better sleep and a deeper sense of well-being. She testifies that it is “amazing for the body and an enjoyable experience.”

A 25-minute soak with a colorful light show is priced at $50.

Acupuncture is an ancient healing treatment in which tiny needles are inserted into the top layer of skin to stimulate healing, but needles can generate a visceral fear in patrons despite their healing nature. Colorpuncture utilizes light rather than needles, and the Colorpuncture Facial at Seventh Moon Wellness Spa in Leighton, Penn., provides reflexology for the face.

Cyrese Sciandra, M.S., L.A.C., explains, “cells communicate over sound and light over acupuncture points. The acu pen hovers over these points for 30 seconds and harnesses their power via the color distributing light pen.” This cellular treatment can be offered as an add-on. A 60-minute colorpuncture session at Seventh Moon costs $45, while a shortened colorpuncture treatment as part of a spa package, featuring an essential foot bath and spinal relaxation, is available for $45 as well.

Take into account that baths are part of childhood and therapeutic after a challenging day, making healing waters an excellent add-on to your spa menu.

Research how your spa can tweak ancient remedies to make them friendlier to those who are averse to even the slightest twinge of discomfort.

Many do not believe in the spiritual aspects of life because what is unseen cannot be revealed in the presence of doubt. Physical representations of the spirit may be beneficial as well as mending. Healing clay is one of the oldest beauty tools in the world. Indigenous cultures use it to purify and refine the skin. Clays contain tiny crystals that make the fruit of the earth capable of absorbing toxic elements. Black, blue, green, red, white and yellow clay can be used on the skin for different purposes, and at Susan’s Skin and Body Care in Beverly Hills, Calif., clays correspond to the chakras to focus on for healing.

Yellow clay stimulates circulation, which strengthens skin’s protective barrier and matches with the solar plexus chakra housed in the stomach, helpful for digestive issues. White clays are mild and perfect for sensitive or aging skin as well as those seeking guidance, as the color addresses auras.

Red, the color of the root chakra provides stability and harnesses the power of anti-inflammatories best suited to

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Red (root chakra) - Governs stability and attachment to the physical world Orange (sacral chakra) - Governs creativity and fertility Yellow (solar plexus chakra) - Governs self-esteem and motivation Green (heart chakra) - Governs unconditional love toward self and others Blue (throat chakra) - Governs communication and self-expression Indigo (third eye chakra) - Governs intuitive capabilities Violet (crown chakra) - Governs sense of purpose and universal connection

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HEALING WITH COLOR THERAPY

acne-prone skin and those seeking motivation. Black clay is renowned as a potent detoxifier, physically and spiritually, whereas blue refreshes cells and de-stresses skin as well as the spiritual body. Green clay is highly absorbent and tightens pores while also softening application sites. This earthy hue also corresponds to the heart chakra, which seeks unconditional love and may weaken resiliency without due attention.

Spa owner Susan Tung believes that spiritual and physical balance is invited through the nurturing colors of this therapy. The Chroma Lift Facial is available for $100 per 60-minute session.

Clay is a natural element that many find soothing. Spas can prepare clay firsthand from powder to ensure freshness.

Spa Power Napping Pods Clients love the privacy to nap during the workday away from the office. Kim M., a staff member at Yelo Spa in New York City, states, “it allows customers to take refuge from the noise of the modern world.” With the digital world “on” 24 hours a day, it may be hard to adjust the circadian rhythm to nature’s multicolored twice-daily light show clock signifying energizing dawn and soothing dusk. Nature’s visual display is spectacular and can also release anxieties generated in the overworked mind. Each patented sleep cabin at Yelo Spa features a lounger to place the client in the zero gravity position while music and aromatherapy induce a sleepy state. At the end of the timed session, a LED light mimicking a natural sunrise awakens the napper. By using the hues of nature, such as purples, pinks and oranges, the body wakes up refreshed.

Yelo Spa offers naps of either 20 or 40 minutes, at a cost of $1 per minute.

Consider investing in napping technology for your patrons featuring a colorful awakening for an ultimately satisfying session.

Clients seek out spas in times of jubilation and healing. Consider offering a broad spectrum of color therapies to mend your clients' bodies, minds and spirits. 

Maureen Castellon is the associate editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques and Spa and an adjunct writing professor at Miami Dade College. She graduated with honors from the English department at the University of Alabama and currently blogs at sirenpublications. com. When not writing about beauty, Castellon can be found meditating on the beach with her German Shepherd.

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Defeat the Dull Harken your clients back to their last beach days with the refreshing breeze and lulling of the waves. They will experience the thrill of summer all over again by brushing off the sand from their last beach day and jumping into gentle exfoliation with Kopari’s Coconut Crush Scrub. Made with the brand’s signature coconut oil, the formula combines earth friendly, crushed Tahitian coconut shells and brown sugar.

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BUSINESS ADVICE FOR BEAUTY EXPERTS

The Perfect Ser vice Duo This month: Fernanda Lacerda

Owner and spa director at Maria Bonita Spa, New York, N.Y. Why did you decide to implement makeup into your spa?

We have been implementing makeup services at Maria Bonita for over a year now. We found there was a void between clients getting their hair done and leaving from our location that needed to be filled, so we decided to offer makeup services.

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SERVICES AND RETAIL What is the surface area of the makeup area compared to the rest of the spa?

Our makeup area now is small, but this is about to change when we move to our new location this summer. We hope to increase the retail area substantially to service the increased demand for makeup applications.

What kind of makeup treatments do you offer?

We offer just two makeup services — Basic and Bridal makeup. At this point we are only offering these two treatments to focus on perfecting each.

The Basic option is for clients who are going to a dinner party or want to look their best for a casual date after getting a blowout or a manicure. It’s for clients who want

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to look sensational while looking like it was effortless. Bridal makeup is our big attraction, because brides remember their wedding day for the rest of their lives, as it will live on in their pictures. It is their legacy to future generations.

How did you choose your makeup line?

With so many brands to choose from, it was nearly impossible to select just one. The products we have implemented into our services have been as a direct result of their composition and reviews from other experienced makeup artists. I prefer the professional brands that give my clients the best and longest lasting results.

How profitable are makeup services?

Our makeup services are fairly new and have been profitable enough for us to consider a menu expansion. I estimate it to be at least 10 percent.

With our On-The-Go package, we expect there to be a high demand for this convenient service, especially in Manhattan.

TEAMWORK Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment?

SUCCESS

Estheticians are highly trained to promote makeup services with a soft sell approach. Their incentive to encourage clients to this beautifying treatment is a commission based on the amount of product sold.

How popular are your makeup services?

How did you select makeup artists?

The makeup services have been doing well and we have just launched our On The Go Package, where our professionals go to the client’s home or hotel to do their hair and makeup. We expect it to do quite well. In this modern age, providing convenience is key alongside high-quality performance.

We have been selecting our makeup artists based on their ability to replicate looks based on fashion editorials, bridal pictures and overall expertise. Additionally, of course, word of mouth has proven

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to be quite effective. We are always looking for new talent as well as techniques to keep up with the flow of the industry.

MARKETING How do you promote your makeup services?

Given that makeup is quite visual in nature, we have chosen to heavily promote the looks on social media platforms, particularly Instagram where we showcase our work in our constantly updated feed. We also promote these services internally to our clients. Women want to feel beautiful and seem to naturally gravitate toward this service.

How do you bring new business into your spa?

Our focus for new clients has been primarily through direct marketing, events and word of mouth. We regularly try to engage clients on social media platforms with questions or showcasing the latest looks for hair and makeup to spark interest.

What makeup services have the most success?

With our basic makeup treatment, clients can come in with whatever look they like and we customize it for them. The 1990s esthetic with brick lips and heavy eye makeup on a paler skin canvas has been requested more lately. The key with makeup is that clients want to look their best, and we sometimes need to tweak a look based on factors such as skin tone. Every client should walk out looking and feeling their best.

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Photographed by Daren Thomas

From au naturEl to rugged, Pamela Taylor creates a technique that is undetectable.

Hair : Shawn Cornacchio of Dominique Salon, The Pierre Hotel 118

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Products: Courtesy of Clearly for Men

Smoked Eyes are man-hanced, with a blend of forest green shade enhancer.

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Sweat proof An under base of anti-shine preps the face, brow hair is conditioned with an organic oil conditioner.

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Feel the heat Skin is tinted with an SPF perfection crème, and lash is deepened with a coat of matte lash coal.

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The beard is shaded with a waterproof beard powder on the face and sideburns.

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the

zone health and safety tips for your makeup area

by Mary Van

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What is a Disinfectant?

Disinfectants are chemicals that kill pathogenic microorganisms. Quaternary ammonia is the most widely used disinfectant in the industry. Seventy percent isopropyl alcohol is also frequently used for surface disinfecting and is most commonly utilized by makeup artists. In addition, it is smart to include spray disinfectant, hand sanitizer, bacteria wipes and alcohol wipes in your arsenal.

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Keep Your Products Sanitary

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the mat; gently swirl the brush head over the textured area. Repeat for each brush. o Hold the brush head angled down.

Turn the water on so it runs slowly from the faucet. Keep the metal brush ferrule away from the water and allow it to run over the brush hair. (If the ferrule gets wet, the glue will loosen over time and brushes will shed.) Squeeze out the soap gently and continue to rinse the brush head until all soap has been removed. Once clean, gently squeeze the excess water from the brush. o Place a towel on the counter and several paper towels to absorb the moisture. Lay them flat and allow brushes to dry for four to six hours. Reshape brushes by running the brush hair through the index finger and the inside of the

thumb. Allow them to continue drying overnight.

Use your judgment when deep cleaning your makeup brushes. It may only be necessary to deep clean synthetic brushes regularly since they do not always come clean with the alcohol solution. Clean brushes look fluffy, not matted.

Personal Hygiene

spray of 70% alcohol and let it air dry before placing the containers back into makeup kit.

By following the proper sanitization and application techniques and keeping your work environment clean, you can ensure the health and safety of yourself and your clients. 

Mary Van, the founder and CEO of Mineralogie, is a

Wash your hands between clients with an antiseptic soap or wash. Dispensers are the most sanitary method. Bar soap causes cross contamination because you touch and retouch the bar each time hands are washed. Remove your products from your kit regularly and wash it with soap and water, scrubbing it down until it sparkles. Finish with a

nationally renowned makeup artist and mineral makeup pioneer. Van launched the line in 2003 as a division of her parent company, Demaur Cosmetics. She serves as CEO and president of both companies, and is the hands-on creator, inspiration and quality assurance behind each new signature product and custom color.

THE�In-Vogue�Spa�Treatment We have it all covered from how scalp skin differs from other parts of the body, trending treatments with or without showers, innovative add-ons, and must-have products...

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ADVERTISER INDEX Reader Service No.

Page Number

25............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 69............... Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 123............. Avery Graham......................................................... averygraham.com............................................................ 355 34............... Beau Institute.......................................................... beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 10............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 26............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 27............... Bon Vital.................................................................. bonvital.com................................................................... 265 24............... Dahliana.................................................................. dahliana.com................................................................... 175 11............... Decleor................................................................... decleorusa.com............................................................... 257 34............... 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Le Mieux Cosmetics................................................ lemieuxcosmetics.com..................................................... 294 15............... Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 132............. Nelly Devuyst / Derme & Co.................................. derme.ca......................................................................... 124 79............... PFB Vanish.............................................................. pfbvanish.com................................................................. 229 115............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 36,37.......... 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*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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