LNE & Spa - March 2015

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals March 2015

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MARCH 2015

V o lume 30

Numb e r 3

CONTENTS SKIN

ORGANIC & WELLNESS

Current Events 10 Hypoxic Skin Cell Stress 18 Rosacea and Sensitive Skin 28 Skin News 38

Walnut Leaf 98 Wilderness Dreamers 102 Organic & Wellness News 108

Wilderness Dreamers page 102

ACNE GUIDE Understanding Acne Help Your Clients Beat the Adult Acne Curse 43 New Insights Into the Causes of Acne 44 Clearing Up Your Clients’ Skin 48 The Acne Consultation 51 Acne Management Photo Feature 52

40

Feature Frame page 112

IMAGE

Acne Guide

Let’s Talk Makeup with Janet Calhoun 110 Feature Frame 112 Beauty Cocktail 118 Image News 126

page 39

Spa of the Month: The Spa at Miami Beach EDITION Hotel page 60

SPA Spa of the Month 60 No Hands Massage Approach 66 Spa News 76

EXTRAS 6 128 130

From the Editor Calendar of Events Advertiser Index

BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Shannon Mariani 80 Best Social Platforms

82 Strategic Collaborations 90 Business News 96

Cover Courtesy of Franck Provost

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Patent info: www.edgeforlife.com/patents. Other U.S. and foreign patents pending. Copyright© 2015 Edge Systems LLC. All rights reserved.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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from the

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March has arrived, marking the arrival of longer, warmer days and the start of spring. Accompanying this change in seasons is an abundance of exciting developments for the 2015 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa! Starting on March 1, the new congress season kicks off at the Miami Beach Convention Center with revamped programs and features to cater to every sector of the skin care, spa and wellness industry. Check out our full lineup for the Miami Beach and Dallas conferences today at LNEONLINE.com!

The special guide for our March issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa highlights an issue that every esthetician deals with regularly throughout their career—acne. With so many Americans suffering from acne at some stage of their lives, it is a condition that skin professionals must understand inside and out. Our Acne Guide, starting on page 39, covers every angle of this ever evolving subject with “Understanding Acne,” “Help Your Clients Beat the Adult Acne Curse,” “New Insights Into the Causes of Acne,” “Clearing Up Your Clients’ Skin” and “The Acne Consultation.”

Galvanic treatments, hypoxic skin cell stress, social media

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platforms and a completely hands-free approach to massage services are just a few of the other cutting-edge topics featured in the March issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Enjoy these first days of spring and make sure you don’t miss the start of the most trailblazing season yet of The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Miami Beach on March 1-2 or Dallas on April 26-27. See you there! n

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com REV080414

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CURRENT

EVENTS The Power of Galvanic Treatments in Your Spa

by Annet King

G

alvanic current offers the professional skin therapist a fantastic array of opportunities to “power up” the service menu. Yet, throughout my years as an educator I have found that many skin therapists shy away from this modality due to a lack of knowledge about how to use it. Here’s the buzz: this electrical therapy is extremely safe, painless, integrates easily to optimize other protocols, and will deliver dynamic, long-lasting results for every skin concern. When you consider that it’s used to electrically infuse medication into the skin, we also know that it’s a proven scientific modality. So get out that machine, dust it off and get ready to discover its many marvels!

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March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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skin | current events

UNDERSTANDING THE SCIENCE In simplest terms, galvanic current is a low-level, continuous current that flows in one direction known as direct current (DC), just like the electricity from a battery. Galvanic treatments employ this low-level, medium amperage direct current to achieve multiple skin benefits like stimulating cells, moving tissue fluid, softening up blackheads and driving ingredients deep into the epidermis.

Depending upon the polarity used (either negative or positive), a water-

soluble, ionized, either positive (acid pH) or negative (alkaline pH) charged solution is pulled into or extracted from the skin. This is achieved by creating a circuit through a metal “active” electrode being placed on the skin that’s connected by a wire to the galvanic machine. This working electrode may be a roller, a ball, prong or tweezer, and in some cases an iontophoresis mask.

An “inactive” electrode is then placed under the shoulder, held in the hand or clipped to the wrist or

arm. This electrode is normally covered by a damp sponge or gauze to increase conductivity and ensure client comfort. This scenario creates a lowvoltage circuit or loop, so the current runs through the body, flowing in one direction from positive (+) to negative (-), or vice versa depending on the machine setting or technique employed.

Therefore, any substances applied are pulled, not pushed, into the skin, and penetration occurs as a result of that attraction.

USING GALVANIC IN THE TREATMENT SPACE IONTOPHORESIS AND DESINCRUSTATION ARE THE TWO MAJOR USES OF DIRECT CURRENT IN SKIN THERAPY.

Iontophoresis Using galvanic current on the positive polarity is referred to as iontophoresis. During a treatment, a positively charged (acid pH) serum, gel or complex is first applied to the skin. The skin therapist then places the passive or inactive (negative) electrode under the client’s shoulder or into their hand. The positively charged current is then delivered via the active ingredients deep into the skin via positively charged ions or molecules.

This electrorepulsion is ideal for treating aging skin and hyperpigmentation, as it carries active age-fighting and pigment-controlling ingredients deep into the stratum germinativum, where they can impact cells.

Galvanic on the positive polarity also has a calming and vasoconstrictive effect on the skin, helping to reduce sensitivity and redness on the skin, so clients with sensitive skin and rosacea can reap the benefits of this valuable technology.

Effects on skin: ACID REACTION TO BALANCE SKIN pH TIGHTENS AND FIRMS TISSUES CONSTRICTS THE FOLLICLES DECREASES BLOOD FLOW DENSITY REDUCES EDEMA ATTRACTS POSITIVE IONS

What types of products can you use?

A multitude of products from serums to masques and even moisturizers can be used with iontophoresis if they have an acid pH and are water-soluble. Novel treatment protocols even feature iontophoresis with hydroxy acid-based liquid exfoliants for more intense exfoliation results on photo damaged and highly pigmented skins.

How and when to add into your treatments?

Iontophoresis can be implemented at various stages within a skin treatment; it is generally not offered as a stand alone treatment. Typically performed for 4 to 7 minutes, the key element to remember is that galvanic iontophoresis assists in the penetration of any waterbased products into the skin for any issue, even overly sun-exposed skin.

It can be performed immediately after desincrustation and extractions to provide extra purification and to constrict follicles. You may choose to use it on a specific area, like just the eye area, to introduce a collagen-boosting peptide or on an area of hyperpigmentation to control overactive melanin. Visible results are long-lasting for your clients, so try to incorporate it into all of your skin treatments for a few minutes and build it into the time and cost.

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skin | current events

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DESINCRUSTATION Galvanic desincrustation is a process that softens and emulsifies sebum and keratin in the follicle. It is a great tool for the skin professional and can be integrated while also using warm steam on the client. Performed prior to manual extractions, desincrustation prepares the skin for safe, painless and successful removal of comedones and micro-comedones. It deeply cleanses the skin and removes congestion.

Desincrustation solutions have an alkaline pH and are negatively charged, so they require the direct current to hold a negative charge. The client holds the

positive (inactive) electrode, and the negative electrode (active) operates as the working electrode.

A desincrustation solution is applied to both the skin and the gauze or cotton covering the active electrode, which traditionally is a prong or tweezer, this is then moved over the affected area. The alkaline solution is drawn to the positive electrode in the client’s hand or under the shoulder and the negative ions in the solution are repelled by the negative electrode, causing an alkaline reaction in the skin. This works on the theory that like poles repel and opposite poles attract.

The desincrustation solution, combined with the action of the active negative electrode, results in the “saponification” of sebum. This alkali and sebum reaction forms sodium hydroxide (lye) due to the fatty stearic acids in sebum, reacting with the alkali to form soap. In the skin, the reaction softens and liquefies sebum, and this facilitates the easier (and highly satisfying) release of even the most resistant blackhead, especially in hard-to- extract “tight,” finely textured, sometimes dehydrated skin.

Following manual extractions, apply a purifying, calming serum and switch the polarity back to positive to adjust skin to an acid pH to close follicles, calm and soothe.

Effects on skin: AN ALKALINE, SKIN SOFTENING REACTION IN THE SKIN DILATES FOLLICLES INCREASES BLOOD AND LYMPH CIRCULATION INCREASES SENSITIVITY SOFTENS COMPACTED SEBUM AND KERATIN WITHIN THE FOLLICLE ATTRACTS NEGATIVE IONS

PERFORMED PRIOR TO MANUAL EXTRACTIONS, DESINCRUSTATION PREPARES THE SKIN FOR SAFE, PAINLESS AND SUCCESSFUL REMOVAL OF COMEDONES AND MICRO-COMEDONES.

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Did you know just 2 hours of exposure to pollution can deplete antioxidant levels in the skin by as much as 25%?1 The antioxidant level drops by 75% after a week leaving skin nearly defenseless, rapidly accelerating aging. HydroPeptide’s HydroStem+6 Serum is formulated to repair aged skin with 6 botanically-derived stem cells to supplement the skin’s natural antioxidant reserves.

Volumizing peptides optimize essential structural proteins to reduce the appearance of existing fine lines, prevent future wrinkling, restore firmness, and increase elasticity. fu The end result is skin that looks and stays years younger.* 1. Information obtained from “Ozone Potentiates Vitamin E Depletion by Ultraviolet Radiation in the Murine Stratum Corneum.” G. Valacchi, S.U. Weber, C. Luu, C.E. Cross, and L. Packer (2000).

*For best results, apply HydroStem+6 to clean skin and follow with an application of HydroPeptide Solar Defense: Broad Spectrum SPF 30.

GARDENIA

SUPPORTS COLLAGEN PRODUCTION AND INCREASES FIRMNESS

ECHINACEA

INCREASES BOTH HYDRATION AND ELASTICITY

BUDDLEJA

PROTECTS AGAINST SUN DAMAGE

EDELWEISS

PREVENTS LOSS OF HYALURONIC ACID AND IMPROVES HYDRATION

GOTU KOLA

DECREASES INFLAMMATION AND IMPROVES BLOOD FLOW

LILAC

CLEARS AND EVENS SKIN TONE WHILE ASSISTING WITH EVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

Try HydroStem+6 Today! Speak with a representative at 800.932.9873 to receive samples and a retailer application.

HydroPeptide offers your clients the star treatment with immediate post-facial results and home care regimens that are as effective as they are luxurious.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

WWW. HYDROPEPTIDE.COM

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skin | current events

WHAT TYPES OF products TO USE? Desincrustation solutions usually contain various forms and concentrations of sodium (salt) like sodium chloride, sodium bicarbonate and sodium carbonate. Alkaline pH products soften skin while breaking down sebaceous

debris, but this compromises skin health when the skin is left in this pH state, so removal of solutions and correcting back to acidic pH is critical. Think of you bar soap user clients and the drying impact this had on their skin.

Look for professional products that deliver a salt solution infused with calming and purifying botanical extracts like Quillaja Saponaria, burdock root, ivy and watercress to reduce inflammation.

RISKS AND PRECAUTIONS: IS GALVANIC EVER dangerous?

Before initiating the treatment, take the opportunity to ask your client crucial questions as part of the in-depth consultation. Ask if they are or have recently been under the care of a physician, including the care of a dermatologist.

Ensure they have not received a chemical peel, microdermabrasion, injectable or any other cosmetic procedures within the last 2 weeks. Note that although the level of current is very low and therefore safe for most clients, galvanic procedures are not recommended for: Clients with metal implants— including body-piercings with metal rings, etc.

Clients with pacemakers Clients with heart conditions Clients with epilepsy Clients with diabetes Clients who are pregnant Discern these contraindications in the consultation, and ensure you gain the client’s signature to prevent any legal action, this should be standard procedure for every treatment including galvanic.

Galvanic treatments truly empower you as a professional skin therapist to make positive, lasting results on the skin of your client.

Think back to the beginning of your career in our profession. It’s easy to get caught up in ingredient trends and techniques, but more than likely what first compelled you to pursue this career is the desire to help others. Integrating galvanic technology

makes this goal a reality—and greater results mean greater respect for our skills, and even greater loyalty from our clients.

Iontophoresis treatments TIME: Offer as part of a one-hour treatment or incorporate into 20-30 minute express or micro treatments.

SCHEDULE: Six treatments, ideally performed once a week for hyperpigmentation and aging skin. Once every three to four weeks for general skin conditions, rosacea and sensitized skin. Use on the skin for four to seven minutes.

COST: Build into your general cost of all customized skin treatments.

MENU COPY: This intensive treatment uses advanced technology to penetrate skin specific complexes deep into the skin. This provides long lasting results and radically improves key skin concerns.

Desincrustation treatments TIME: Offer as part of a one-hour treatment or incorporate into 20-30 minute express or micro treatments.

SCHEDULE: Six treatments, ideally performed once a week for oily, acne and teen skin. Once every three to four weeks for general skin conditions. Used on the skin for four to seven minutes or three to five for more sensitized clients.

COST: Build into your general cost for oily, teen and acne treatments.

MENU COPY: “This intensive deep cleansing treatment uses the latest technology to dissolve skin congestion, unclogging pores to achieve smooth, clear and clean skin. Ideal for oily and problem skins that experience blackheads and breakouts.”

Interested in a little background history of galvanic treatments? Check out LNEONLINE.com for more information, and a video of a galvanic technology protocol. n SEE ANNET KING SPEAK AT THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA, DALLAS ON MONDAY, APRIL 27.

Annet King is the director of global education for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. She has a unique understanding of the global skin care market combined with dynamic leadership skills. King is also responsible for creating the professional classes and training materials that accompany the Dermalogica system of products. For additional information on Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute, visit dermalogica.com and dermalinstitute.com.

Page 16 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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HYPOXIC Skin Cell Stress + Bio Oxygen

HY-POX-I-A: noun.

Insufficient levels of oxygen concentration in cells.

HY-POX’IC: adjective.

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BY

CHRISTINE HEATHMAN

S

topping the aging skin clock is what we all seek to achieve. Our skin will be older tomorrow than it is today, and maintaining a professional age management skin protocol is the best way to keep skin cells acting younger for youthful looking skin. In the last decade the field of cell biology has brought complicated paradigms influencing the quest of professional skin care to keep skin acting younger. All known cellular processes are accounted for by well-described mechanisms. For every problem, there’s a solution, and as professional skin care estheticians our responsibility should go beyond arbitrary treatments to understand and use the new cell biology ingredients now available.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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skin | hypoxic skin cell stress + bio oxygen

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER The more estheticians understand the cell, the better results from ingredients will be obtained for ultimate skin end point results.

Cells are under daily stress from lack of nutrients, temperature shock, DNA damage, and hypoxia.

All of these stressors lead to changes in gene expression patterns caused by a general shutdown and reprogramming of protein synthesis (we have to remember that proteins are the workhorses of the cells).

The science behind aging skin cells has several intrinsic and extrinsic factors that affect youthful skin cell structure. As skin ages, cell formation is compromised leading to unorganized extra spaces that cannot hold nutrients and healthy cells, thus damaging DNA and causing pigment morbidity. This also includes the lack of vital oxygen.

The ability to respond rapidly for a cell to make changes in the cellular environment is essential for survival.

Oxygen, a colorless, odorless reactive gas and life supporting component of the air, is a primal nutrient.

Oxygen makes energy to heal, cleanse, detoxify and restore. It has become one of the most advanced treatments in skin care for aging, acne, pigmentation, rosacea and other skin conditions.

The Journal of Investigative Dermatology reports that oxygen levels lower than healthy skin contribute to poor therapeutic remedy for aging, acne, and pigmented skin. Oxygen levels directly affect skin fibroblasts and essential cells for normal barrier repair function (BRF) in any wound healing process—the primary factors affecting the stratum corneum barrier function are age, environment, diet, race and disease.

VITAL OXYGEN

HYPOXIC STRESS

All living organisms must respond to, and defend against environmental stress that leads to these conditions.

One stressor is hypoxic stress, which is low oxygen levels in the cells that affect cellular physiology.

Oxygen deprivation induces a series of cellular responses that causes adversities within the cellular environment. Deprived of oxygen, cell functions are impaired leading to basal keratinocyte generation inhibition, and to the proliferation of stress, differentiation, and expression of cellcell adhesion molecules. Hypoxia also affects the growth of blood vessels, particularly small capillaries.

Cells under hypoxic stress activate a signaling cascade of hypoxiaresponsive genes to aid the cell into either adapting to the low oxygen conditions or undergoing apoptosis. This response to restore cellular homeostasis is primarily initiated and regulated by the family of hypoxia inducible transcription factors (HIF1A).

The nature of the oxygen sensor that causes the increased expression of HIF1A is not yet fully known, but it probably requires a protein that has a heme-containing oxygen-binding site somewhat like that in hemoglobin.

W ithin the las t three to four years, evidence has accumulated to indicate that hemoglobin proteins exist widely in the plant community.

DEPRIVED OF OXYGEN, CELL FUNCTIONS ARE IMPAIRED LEADING TO BASAL KERATINOCYTE GENERATION INHIBITION, AND TO THE PROLIFERATION OF STRESS, DIFFERENTIATION, AND EXPRESSION OF CELL-CELL ADHESION MOLECULES

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“Inspired by nature... Realized by science.”

Vitamin C + Plant & Fruit Stem Cells + Peptides + Botanicals & Essential Oils

(Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate)

Always in High Concentrations.

Experience Age Defying Results.

LUCRÈ C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce .co m March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

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skin | hypoxic skin cell stress + bio oxygen > Nasturtium Plant

PLANT SOURCES Bio oxygen benefits from plant sources such as the Nasturtium (an annual plant of the cabbage family) incorporate new and advanced natural oxygen phytonutrients active ingredients rich in arabinogalactans (power immune activity normalizers) that have been used in medicine. These advanced botanical flower constituents are the groundbreaking power flower players in skin care. The benefits are many, such as restoration of hypoxic cellular stress conditions due to lack of oxygen supply, aiding in the intracellular diffusion of oxygen, promoting skin oxygenation, improving skin radiance, expediting injured skin (i.e. photodamaged, acne, pigmentation, rosacea, etc.).

These natural occurring botanicals from plant phytochemical sources promote skin health by eliminating inflammation, neutralizing free radicals, toning blood vessels, improving circulation, cell function and reducing bacteria for problem plagued skin.

BIO OXYGEN TREATMENTS Constant oxygen supply to skin is essential for cutaneous cell and necessary to produce cell energy and guarantee the skin’s homeostasis. Skin cells depend on the complex phenomena of oxygen diffusion.

Dr. Marina Peredo, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, N.Y., notes that bio oxygen treatments may be the ideal and less painful way to fight aging. “Oxygen is a necessity if you want to have healthy, youthful looking skin,” Peredo states.

These oxygen treatments and skin care help protect and reverse damage from environmental pollutants, such as free radicals, that harm the skin. It’s also the ultimate hydrator to help fuse nutrients into the skin and support the barrier repair function. The chemistry of botanical oxygen is a weapon against aging skin.

> Facial Treatment

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skin | hypoxic skin cell stress + bio oxygen

EXPANDING SPA SERVICES Spectacular advances have been made in many ways of molecular skin care biology and are an ongoing process.

In a spa or skin care setting offering, bio oxygen treatments expand your services to manage aging skin, acne and pigmentation.

The synergistic benefits of providing oxygen skin care treatments and home care combine benefits of multiple compounds found in plant-based hydrosols such as peptides. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and peptides have been shown to reduce lines and wrinkles.

When providing an oxygen treatment for your clients, these hydrosols provide a powerful dual benefit of oxygen and peptides to help keep skin acting and looking younger.

Bio oxygen treatments take around 45 minutes to an hour to perform, and can range from $75 to $125.

Versatile bio oxygen treatments can be blended into other applications.

Many celebrities pay up to $500 for these popular oxygen treatments to help stop the skin aging clock in its tracks and swear by them.

TAKE AWAY In conclusion, estheticians should acknowledge the benefits of molecular cell biology skin care offering bio oxygen plant source treatments that also mean good dollars from the business side of professional skin care. Oxygen treatments and oxygen home care are very profitable, and clients love the end results and rebook.

If you are currently offering exfoliation or peels, incorporating an oxygen treatment will not only be a great add-on or solo treatment but will also reduce inflammation, rejuvenate aging skin cells to act younger, thus producing a more youthful looking and vibrant skin with one treatment. n Christine Heathman is a licensed master esthetician, lecturer, educator, author, mentor and advocate for the esthetic industry. She is the owner and CEO of GlyMed Plus. Heathman has been a leader in research and scientific skin care and protocol development for more than 25 years. Contact her at cheathman@glymedplus.com.

COMING NEXT MONTH LNE & SPA

Hair Removal Guide DON’T PULL YOUR HAIR OUT!

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March Say 2015 • Les & #304 Spa on reader service card you saw Nouvelles it in LNE & Esthétiques Spa and circle

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Rosacea often shows up as a flushing of the skin, redness or rash.

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Rosacea and Sensitive Skin Differentiating Two Frequently Confused Conditions

by Rhonda Allison Did you know that there are more than 16 million rosacea sufferers in America alone? And millions more who have what is termed “sensitive” skin?

Some statistics say that 50 percent of women and 30 percent of men fall into the category of having sensitive skin, and 10 percent of the general population suffers from rosacea!

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

There are many misnomers surrounding these two skin types. In fact, the term “sensitive,” in relation to skin type, is actually commonly misunderstood and overused. While sensitive skin has similar characteristics to rosacea, it is often confused with the disorder. In the treatment room, proper diagnosis is imperative. It’s the first step to map out an effective course of action and safely restore a client’s skin to optimum health.

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skin | rosacea and sensitive skin

Characteristics Of Sensitive Skin Skin responds to various elements and disturbances inside and out; and to a certain extent all skin has a degree of sensitivity. It’s the level of reaction that signifies whether a skin is truly sensitive or not.

Truly sensitive skin easily reddens or develops a rash in response to an outside influence. It’s important to keep in mind that all skin reacts to external factors such as pollution, sun, wind and smoking. Sensitive skin, however, overreacts to these elements. Sensitive skin also tends to be thinner, and more prone to fragile capillaries than average skin.

It often shows up as a flushing of the skin, redness or rash.

In my experience, most sensitive skins are typically reacting to inferior ingredients or formulations in topical products, such as those that contain dyes, preservatives or perfumes.

It’s not a chronic issue, but rather a reaction that typically subsides once the offending element has been eliminated and inflammation is calmed.

Characteristics Of Rosacea Skin Rosacea is a chronic and progressive disorder with different stages. The first stage often manifests in the form of frequent

blushing or flushing, occurring on the cheeks, nose, chin or forehead as skin becomes irritated by certain topicals, acne medications, chemical-based sunscreens, improper care and inadequate protection.

The second stage appears as a continuous reddening of the skin. Papules, pustules and expanded surface capillaries may also appear. The third stage is characterized by a deep, persistent redness often accompanied by dilated veins, particularly around the nose. An early sign is fibroplasia (excess tissue growth), which may produce enlarged pores.

While the cause of rosacea is officially unknown, research has attributed it to poor circulation, sluggish lymph, genetic predisposition, digestive disorders, bacteria, and mites attached to cells.

Page 30 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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skin | rosacea and sensitive skin While the cause of rosacea is officially unknown, research has attributed it to poor circulation, sluggish lymph, genetic predisposition, digestive disorders, bacteria, and mites attached to cells. It’s a systemic issue and often requires a deeper root issue to be addressed in addition to treatments designed to bring the skin back to optimal health.

While there’s no “cure,” early diagnosis can prevent the disorder from developing to the third stage, and may be more easily managed. It will often be much easier to treat and restore skin back to optimal health when detected early.

While rosacea and sensitive skin are impacted by similar elements, they are very different from one another and require different courses of action. A skin assessment, including a skin history, patch testing the client’s skin, and observing the skin over time is essential to truly understand what’s going on beneath the surface.

It’s important to keep in mind that all skin reacts to external factors such as pollution, sun, wind and smoking.

In The Treatment Room Each of these skin challenges requires a personalized approach to fit the exact needs of the skin.

Sensitive Skin Sensitive skins typically tolerate beta acids and retinols better than AHAs. There are certain exceptions such as flower acids, known as second-generation AHAs, which do not cause skin irritation. Other lower-strength AHAs may also work when used in tandem with enzymes. This combination allows the cell regeneration to begin, and it can then be followed with retinols or beta acid peels. A series of progressive treatments will begin to strengthen skin integrity and desensitize the skin, bringing it to a less reactive state.

Rosacea In the treatment room, the goal for rosacea clients is to provide more strengthening support without over-stimulating the underlying inflammation. This is achieved primarily through the use of “rosacea friendly” ingredients, and through techniques that increase overall circulation like moderate microdermabrasion, O2 applications, massage, and stimulating the lymphatic system.

Page 32 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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skin | rosacea and sensitive skin

Like the treatment for sensitive skin, lower-strength AHAs, BHAs and retinols typically work best for rosacea skin. Stimulating lymphatic flow also works wonders for those challenged by rosacea. When the lymph is clogged, it becomes more difficult for the body to purify and cleanse itself, the effects of which can become visible in the skin.

Look to ingredients that provide antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and skin-building support, such as probiotics, salicylic acid, essential fatty acids, sea buckthorn oil, vitamins, and growth factors. Avoid ingredients that are extremely hot or cold. Gently rolling chilled ice globes over gauze covering the skin during the treatment will reduce inflammation and redness. Always finish by applying a mineral-based protection formula.

Whether skin is sensitive or challenged by rosacea, esthetic professionals must educate clients on the importance of proper home care and how lifestyle choices impact their skin health. The same primary contributing factors apply to both rosacea and sensitive skins, which are stress and inflammation.

Aside from healthy lifestyle practices to manage these symptoms, the following topical care can help your clients:

For sensitive skin Integrate chirally correct, intelligent ingredients into their regimen to offset free radical damage. Some examples include growth factors, essential fatty acids, superoxide dismutase, uric acid, retinol with butterfly bush stem cells for rejuvenation, anti-inflammatory and healing support. Sun protection is a must for home care for all skin types and conditions, but especially for someone with either rosacea or sensitive skin.

Selecting a natural physical sunblock is paramount.

For rosacea There is no set program or system for those challenged with rosacea. It becomes very individual when selecting their daily care. Some specific ingredients, however, provide overall support for most rosacea skins. Sea buckthorn oil is an extremely effective ingredient, as it reduces inflammation, soothes and nourishes the skin, and is antimicrobial.

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While the cause of rosacea is officially unknown, research has attributed it to poor circulation, sluggish lymph, genetic predisposition, digestive disorders, bacteria, and mites attached to cells.

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skin | rosacea and sensitive skin

Unique Distinctions Of Rosacea Origins: Believed by many to be a vascular disorder.

Prognosis: Chronic, progressive condition that can worsen over time.

Visible signs: Flushing, acne like red pus filled bumps, spider veins, coarseness, visible blood vessels (telangiectasia).

Typical rosacea sufferer: Fair skinned women aged 30-60.

Symptom triggers: Spicy foods, hot foods and drinks, anger, sudden changes in emotion. n

It is also a vascular healer, working to strengthen blood vessels and the capillary wall. Totarol, growth factors, essential fatty acids, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), to name a few, can also be beneficial to rosacea skin.

The bottom line is this: esthetic professionals must be informed and aware of the signs of sensitive and rosacea skin, and they should be able to educate clients on how they can manage each of these conditions to correct or subdue the symptoms. Identifying the precise skin challenge is essential to a satisfied client. With the right education, tools and client compliance, you are well equipped to handle rosacea or any sensitive skin condition.

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA Skin Care for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of esthetic experience. Visit RhondaAllison.com and RAmethod.com for more information.

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POWER OF FRUIT Skin Professional Dead Sea Cosmetics’ Multi Fruit Moisturizing Cream was developed specifically for the treatment of oily and problematic skin, says the company. The cream is composed of an active complex of fruit and vegetable essences, vitamin C and Dead Sea minerals, which assist in disinfecting acne while calming skin.

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ANTI-AGING TREAT EMK Beverly Hills Skin Care launched its Advanced Anti-Aging Serum, a nourishing fluid that stimulates the skin’s internal building blocks to increase natural collagen and elastin production, says the company. The serum features EMK Synercell, a proprietary system that helps skin cells receive and utilize the botanical placenta, antioxidants and vitamins A, C and E, among others.

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Page 38 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

ACNE GUIDE The latest science, treatments and products to win the acne battle.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 39

ACNE guide

Understanding

acne by

Christine Heathman

Page 40 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

E

stheticians see clients with acne breakouts who have sought out many prior remedies. As a licensed skin care professional it’s easy to understand why consumers are confused, perplexed and baffled with the variety of acne “cures” that don’t work.

What is acne?

What should clients understand about diet?

The facts of acne The fact of acne is that millions of women face off with adult skin disease daily.

The truth of acne is that many women are battling the complications of the aging clock along with the ugly onset of either new or old blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, and cysts.

Treat acne and aging together.

Many skin technicians would argue that the daily use of cosmetics can be the cause of insignificant acne in women. The truth is that no acne is insignificant, therefore all cosmetics and skin care of the past and future should be scrutinized carefully. If the skin care technician suspects comedo-

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Some foods can irritate an acne condition that cause blood sugar to rise quickly, triggering a boost in insulin.

Too much insulin in the bloodstream can trigger changes in the body that can lead to retention hyperkeratosis, boosting action in the sebaceous oil glands, especially with foods linked to androgens, such as peanut oil and wheat germ oil. Other foods such as sugar and salt exacerbate inflammation.

Many dairy foods laced with hormones also irritate acne conditions. Reducing the negative food influences that feed the inflammation and aggravate acne is highly recommended.

lneonline.com • Page 41

ACNE guide

Acne is an inflammatory, papulopustular skin eruption occurring usually in or near the sebaceous glands on the face, neck, shoulders, and upper back. Its actual cause is still unknown but involves bacterial breakdown of sebum into fatty acids, wax esters, triglycerides, and squalene, irritating the pore surrounding the subcutaneous tissue. These substances, more commonly known as “oil,” are the fuel for the acne flare-ups.

genic ingredients to be the cause of acne, then prudent evaluation of all the client cosmetics, including topical Rx, should be an integral part of the acne assessment.

Circadian balance influences acne.

Oil is at its highest concentration by 1 p.m. Guidance to have your client cleanse their face, or setting acne treatments at this time can help manage the manifestation of oil.

Estheticians need to be mindful that acne is a multifactorial process influenced by genetic predisposition and many different irritants that include sunlight, steroids, hormones, mechanical occlusion, stress, pregnancy, cosmetics, iodine in foods, drugs, comedogenic irritants such as isopropyl myristate and acetylated lanolin to name a few.

The skin’s own functions should be naturally supported and rebuilt by using proven substances that correspond to its own natural chemistry: • Enzymes • Vitamins • Antioxidants • Amino acids • Peptides • Minerals/trace elements • Lactic acid • Hyaluronic acid • Ceramides • Sulfur • Protease

ACNE guide

Vitamin supplements With the emphasis focused on natural health today and in replacement of antibiotics, many people are resorting to a systemic solution of vitamin supplements.

The very basics of properly formulated vitamins must be exclusive for acne and should contain: • Zinc, cuts down on inflammation • B Complex, reduces stress • B6, helps with edema in women caused by menopause or birth control • C, stabilizes enzymes and heals Stress Sometimes this element is overlooked when it comes to acne. Anxiety stimulates ACTH (adrenocorticotropic hormone) in the pituitary causing the adrenal gland to increase hormonal output that irritates the sebaceous follicle causing a flare-up. Take note of your clients’ anxiety level and use deep breathing techniques to reduce an anxious moment.

Acne treatment options Treatments can be esthetic and medical. Topical applications used in medical include erythromycin, clindamycin, benzoyl peroxide, and sulfur. Oral medications can include erythromycin, tetracycline, birth control pills, doxycycline, and isotretinoin (Accutane). Many medical treatments using antibiotics are ineffective. Resistance is a major factor to overcome non-responding acne.

There will be occasions where an esthetician needs to refer a client to a dermatologist, such as a cystic acne condition that fails to respond to treatment, or other acne variant such as acne conglobata, a severe form of acne with abscess, cyst, scar and keloid formation affecting the lower back, buttocks and thighs in addition to the face and chest.

An experienced esthetician will always use a holistic approach to acne, identifying the factors that aggravate the condition and take time to control the disease with scheduled clinical management and home maintenance remedies.

Always wear gloves in assessment of an acne condition and during treatment.

Among the recommended topical therapies for an esthetician for both clinical and home care are benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), Jessner, TCA, enzymes, keratolytic agents, lymphatic drainage, nutrition, supplements and ultrasound treatments.

Many botanical ingredients can be very effective. Regulators of sebum production are green tea, soy, burdock, and saw palmetto.

Anti-inflammatory botanicals are licorice, kiwi, and wild pansy. Antiseptic and germicidal are tea tree, green tea, lemon.

Extraction is also an important esthetic treatment to drain the infected follicle and expel the encapsulated comedone to obliterate the lesion permanently. This is a craft that takes expertise and training.

Esthetic support starts with education, proper acne products, diet control, life style management, stress management and professional treatments. n Christine Heathman is a licensed master esthetician, lecturer, educator, author, mentor and advocate for the esthetic industry. She is the owner and CEO of GlyMed Plus. Heathman has been a leader in research and scientific skin care and protocol development for more than 25 years. Contact her at cheathman@glymedplus.com.

Page 42 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Help Your Clients Beat the Adult Acne Curse

Your help is crucial Making a good call before starting treatment is critical, because the wrong treatment may trigger an acne flare-up, which will make you lose the client and result in potential bad ratings for your business.

First and foremost, know what you are looking at.

Several skin diseases have common symptoms. Symptoms that include pimMarch 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

ples, redness or bumps can be mistaken for acne. Sometimes, multiple skin conditions can be present and complicate the correct diagnosis.

• Keratosis Pilaris is hereditary and is caused by the accumulation of Keratin in the hair follicles, which in turn causes rough, bumpy white pimples that look just like mild acne. But KP occurs more on the cheeks, upper arms, thighs and legs and is not caused

by P. Acnes.

• Rosacea, which affects millions of people, is often mistaken for acne.

Rosacea concentrates mainly in the nose and middle area and causes redness, flushing and raised skin.

• Perioral Dermatitis causes pimples located around the mouth in a circular shape. This little known condition is thought to be caused by the use or overuse of topical and inhaled steroids.

Certain food additives in chewing gums have also been blamed for this chronic, inflammatory type of condition.

Learn about these different symptoms and skin conditions and ask the right questions so you can address the right problem.

Tailor your treatment It’s important that you develop an acne-specific treatment in your practice.

When doing a facial • Use a mild cleanser that does not strip the skin of its natural oils.

• Avoid grainy, harsh, sugar or salt scrubs during treatment.

• Be very gentle when doing extractions.

• Favor products that contain salicylic acid, which kills P. Acnes and reduces redness caused by inflammation.

• Finish the treatment by applying a formula that contains ingredients known to help control oil production.

Recommend a good at-home routine.

encourage your clients to follow these easy tips: • Wash the face twice a day using a mild cleanser.

• Use an alcohol-free toner.

• Remove sweat that can cause acne flare-ups and do not allow it to sit on the skin.

• Avoid touching the face with the hands or handling pimples, which spreads bacteria.

• Keep the skin well hydrated.

Helping your client understand acne triggers will reduce their flareups, which will make you their go-to expert for a beautiful and healthy skin. n

Christiane Waldron is the founder and CEO of Jenetiqa, a professional luxury skin care company focused on highly bioavailable skin care formulas that combine scientifically proven antioxidants with botanicals and natural products. Contact Christiane.waldron@jenetiqa.com or visit jenetiqa.com.

lneonline.com • Page 43

ACNE guide

Acne causing bacteria, known as Propionibacterium Acnes, live in the human body and is present in the sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands, which are connected to the hair follicles.

There are three types of acne: mild, moderate, and severe. Mild acne is in the form of black heads and white heads. Moderate acne is what is typically called a pimple, while severe acne is the dramatic and most visible form of inflamed pustule containing pus.

Hormones, mainly Androgens, which are present in both men and women can become unbalanced and cause an overstimulation of the oil producing glands. Androgens can also cause an overproduction of P. Acnes.

This overstimulation of oil, dead cells and bacteria leads to chronic acne problems in adults.

By Christiane Waldron

ACNE guide Page 44 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

(Forget Everything You Have Learned)

by Ben Johnson, M.D.

O

ur understanding of how the body works is still in infancy. It shouldn’t surprise you that the pharmaceutical industry wants to keep the status quo, which is selling antibiotics, Accutane, hormone regulators and topical FDA approved combinations, as well as many other damaging prescriptions.

They want you to think that severe acne should be left to medical professionals only because it’s so “difficult to treat.”

We now better understand the causes of acne and that it can be treated without harming the skin and body.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 45

ACNE guide

New Insights Into the Causes of Acne

often leading to oily skin and beardline acne, which may make this fact confusing.

Toxins So if it isn’t bacteria, not oil and not the duct… what is causing acne?

Toxins. Simply put, your skin is a key detox organ and toxins generated from hormonal imbalance, candida and diet are dealt with at the surface in the form of cysts and comedones. The skin intentionally walls off the area to create its “dismantling immune response.”

Scenario 1

ACNE guide

Populated with bacteria First, let’s review some shocking facts. Our skin is populated with bacteria and they promote healthy skin by design. These probiotics prevent bacterial infections from harmful species, maintain the skin’s pH and a healthy barrier. The National Institute of Health (NIH) reports that bacteria in our body outnumber our actual cells by ten to one. That should give you pause.

There’s a reason antibiotics have left so many acne sufferers with lasting if not permanent side effects. Bacteria is good for the skin. We shouldn’t be trying to kill them with remedies that hurt our skin, slow the wound repair and lead to worse scarring, also aging our skin in the process.

Sebaceous glands Another shocking fact is that sebaceous glands do not get plugged. This fallacy has been quite popular considering there is no clear evidence that this is the start of acne. The human body performs trillions of activities a day in a flawless manner, the hyperkeratinization of sebum ducts is done intentionally and has been shown to not be a 100 percent blockage.

Acne is a process of eliminating toxins from within and the skin creates a cocoon around these toxins in order to dismantle them. The sloughing that comes from the duct is intentional for this purpose. Have you ever wondered why the skin creates an epidermal covering over a closed comedone (whitehead)? You would think it would prefer to let the “infection” ooze out. The entire process is by design.

Still skeptical? If the ductal hypertrophy theorists are right, then we supposedly all have a built-in defect in our ducts. Isn’t it odd that they only occur in random locations on people’s skin?

Do you really think it’s a genetic abnormality that only affects the forehead (as one example) and that the skin is normal in every other place? It’s not logical or likely.

Hormonal imbalance It may be surprising to know that oil doesn’t play a role in acne. This has been proven in research studies. While oil is often an indicator of a testosterone imbalance, it’s the hormonal imbalance that creates the acne, not the oil itself.

However, there’s an epidemic of ovarian inflammation happening right now,

The beauty of this theory is that it fits every situation. For example, Mrs. Jones comes to your office at age 40 complaining of new onset acne on her jawline. She isn’t oily so you know it isn’t being caused from excess oil. She has it on her jawline only so it’s highly unlikely that her sebaceous ducts developed a genetic alteration starting at age 40, only located along 10 percent of her facial skin. It isn’t bacteria because topical anti-bacterial agents don’t work and it would be unlikely to have random “bacterial outbreaks” only on the jawline.

These concerns become even more perplexing when you factor in that the cysts only occur around her menstrual cycle. Why would that cause bacterial breakouts or ductal blockages?

The only answer that stands up to the many variables is that her acne is generated by ovarian inflammation, which increases around her cycle. The cysts occur in the jawline because they are caused by a testosterone imbalance so the acne develops in the male pattern areas.

Scenario 2 Another example of acne is a college student who had gone away to school with clear skin and develops acne on her forehead after some months. What part of the college experience would create new “bacterial infections” in such an isolated area? Did

Page 46 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

she suddenly develop hypertrophied ducts at age 20? Just in the forehead, nowhere else?

She’s not oily and the bumps are not productive, so how does this presentation fit any of the traditional reasons for acne? The answer is that it doesn’t fit. This common scenario can be explained by candidiasis. The overgrowth of candida is often triggered by the ingestion of beer. Candida toxins are sent to the upper cheeks, temples and forehead primarily. Treat the candida, and no topical treatment for acne will be required.

Careful analysis The recognition of these “new” causes for acne has happened over several years of careful analysis. We used clinically proven candida treatments and found that people who suffered from ovarian inflammation (PCOS in most cases) and candida at the same time (increasingly common) only saw acne clearance on the upper half of their face.

In contrast, treating the combination acne with a supplement that restores testosterone balance cleared the beard line but not the upper face.

The results of the targeted treatment of PCOS and/or candida have produced more than 90 percent success in the cases we have treated in the last three years. Clearance occurs without the use of topicals as well. Analysis of these results in the face of historic causes of acne brings up another question; if acne is caused by bacteria, oil or plugs, then how does an internal supplement fix those problems? Again, the answer is that the causes of acne are internal in almost every case except for topical toxins like cheap makeup.

Acne, not unlike other skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis, looks better when the immune system is burdened or disabled because the normal inflammation/repair response is halted.

Antibiotics, Accutane, and steroids disable immune activity to varying degrees, which often also weakens the response to skin toxins. In your heart you know that these ingredients only worsen acne scarring and acne scarring is the most important aspect of this condition since scars last a lifetime.

There is also the long term damage to the body to consider from many of these choices.

While oil is often an indicator of a testosterone imbalance, it’s the hormonal imbalance that creates the acne, not the oil itself.

The future of skin care Everyone is trying to do their best.

It’s understandable that we have based our approach to acne on what the medical and pharmaceutical industry have put forth. However, they are not looking for causes of acne, they are looking for drugs that reduce the visibility of acne lesions. It’s time we look for the source of skin conditions because that’s the future of skin care. n

Ben Johnson, M.D., founder and formulator of Osmosis Skincare, is a physician, entrepreneur, inventor, and outside the box thinker who has spent most of his career in aesthetics.

His holistic approach to highly effective, alternative strategies treat from the inside out to prevent and reverse aging.

Skeptics Skeptics may wonder how it is that they are getting some very good results from the traditional treatments like antibiotics and topicals? The answer is also logical: immunosuppression.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 47

Clearing up your clients’ skin

By Caroline Canetti According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), the number of adults suffering from acne—America’s most common skin condition—is on the rise. This makes it all the more necessary to expand your facial menu to include more ways to prevent and treat acne scars for clients of all ages.

Page 48 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Consultation

Broaching the subject Broaching the subject with a client who has acne but did not necessarily come to the spa for an acne treatment can be tricky. “When they come in for a service other than a facial, we’ll find a way to bring up the subject of their acne and then get them to let our estheticians look at their face,” says Scott Kerschbaumer, co-owner of ESSpa Kozmetika Organic Skincare, with locations in Pennsylvania and Delray Beach.

Preventative measures Among the best services you can give your acne prone clients is to help them prevent acne by offering a variety of treatments to help stop the breakouts before they happen.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

“Effective treatments for maintaining a clear complexion include routine facials to manually clean and clear acne prone pores and exfoliating chemical peels to remove dead skin cell buildup on the skin surface and within problem pores,” says doctor Arthur Colsky, founder and medical director of Advanced Acne Institute in Miami, Fla. Adds Lavigne, “simply by the act of getting a facial, you are helping to prevent acne from occurring. That is because you are keeping ahead of the breakout, and as soon as the flair ups occur, you can address the concerns with the products in your home regimen.”

Preventative facials The Oasis Purifying Facial (60 minutes, $135), which includes a double cleanse, exfoliation, extractions, pressure point massage (to prevent further irritation of the skin), mask, and moisturizer with SPF. “If you have IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) or laser treatments, those will prevent acne by eliminating bacteria below the surface of the skin, and preventing breakouts before they can occur,” says Lavigne. An IPL at Oasis costs $200 for 45 minutes.

Nitespa Skin Rehab is a series of six to 10 sessions (60/90 minutes, $125/$175). And The Red Carpet Lactic Rejuvenation Facial (60 minutes, $175), uses an organic lactic peel combined with a glycolic and oxygen

lneonline.com • Page 49

ACNE guide

“Estheticians need to do a serious consultation and thorough assessment to determine the best course for each individual issue […] as not all acne is created equal,” says Julia Lolita MartinWrobel, creative director and owner of Nitespa in Mar Vista, Calif.

Part of that assessment includes questioning the client on their diet and skin care habits. “Oftentimes, the client is trying so hard to remove excess oil that they are actually stripping the skin of needed moisture and oil, causing the skin to become dried out and overly sensitized,” says Christie Lavigne, director of skin care at Oasis Day Spas in New York City and Westchester, N.Y.

tions. “The facial uses probiotics from yogurt, tea tree oil, and cucumber to fight bacteria and soothe irritated skin,” says Lavigne.

Treating acne scars

ACNE guide

According to Rueckl, fractional radio-frequency modalities, YAG lasers and IPL therapies are great at treating a large variety of acne scarring.

Microneedling is also noteworthy because it can help build collagen, which can improve pitted scarring. “If somebody has a lot of active acne, it’s a little touchy,” says Vanessa Manel, owner of Vanessa Manel in Eagle Rock, Calif. “You have to use your intuition whether you do it, because it can spread the bacteria.”

Oasis Day Spa suggests a series of peels, microdermabrasion or IPL treatments to help diminish the look of scars.

ESS p a o ff e r s t h e MicroPeelabrasion Facial Treatment (110 minutes, $199, or 10 for $900).

“These facials incorporate multiple peeling steps, as well as utilization of a traditional crystal microdermabrasion treatment,” says Kerschbaumer. treatment to help reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation, which Martin-Wrobel says “can be focused towards acneic skin and blemish prevention.”

Acneic skin services “Specific acne facials or light laser treatments are good for mild acne or the occasional breakout. It’s important to avoid over-exfoliation,” says F. Victor Rueckl of Lakes Dermatology & The Spa at Lakes Dermatology in Las Vegas, Nev. “Blue light therapies are good for drying out existing acne, as well as getting rid of bacteria to help prevent future breakouts. YAG lasers are great for removing redness and flushing associated with acne. These treatments work well when combined

with acne facials or microdermabrasion treatments that include salicylic acids and retinols.”

Acne facials ESSpa Pesky Problem facial (60 minutes, $149) and Pervasively Pesky Problem Series of five for $500. “Key to this series is a customized program that incorporates eating habits, recommended foods and drinks, grooming habits and personalized at-home care,” says Kerschbaumer.

Nitespa Dazed and Confused Combination Skin Custom Facial (60 minutes, $129). Includes a glycolic or enzyme peel to hydrate and protect oily and blemished skin.

Oasis Clear Skin Facial (60 minutes, $135). Includes manual extrac-

Back and body treatments Oasis Clarifying Back Facial (45 minutes, $100). Three add-ons are available for this service: $125 for peels, $165 for microdermabrasion, and $200300 for IPL. “It’s a treatment for one of the most neglected areas of the body. It starts with a thorough cleanse followed by exfoliation, extractions, massage, and a purifying mask,” says Lavigne.

Another option: The Back Peel (45 minutes, $150). It’s custom formulated to help correct blemish prone skin, or to simply achieve smooth and soft skin.

ESSpa Cleansing Back Facial ($99) features an exfoliation followed by deep steam cleansing with oxygen therapy. A mask is applied to sterilize, heal and hydrate skin. Hot towels are infused with aromatherapy. n

Page 50 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

The Acne Consultation

By Anna G. Wilhelm

Before beginning any acne treatment program for your client, it’s crucial that you conduct the proper consultation. We’ve created this intake form with the guidance of leading skin care specialists—Dr. Ben Johnson, creator of Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare; Christine Heathman, master esthetician and creator of GlyMed Plus; and Christiane Waldron, owner of Jenetiqa Luxury Skin Care—to help you narrow down the must ask questions.

General questions When did you start noticing a change in your skin? ____________________________________________________ Where is the acne located? ____________________________________________________

Yes

No

Yes

No

Sweat can exacerbate acne, so these are important questions to address, which can easily relieve some of your client’s symptoms.

Do you swim in chlorinated pools a lot?

Yes

No

Frequent swims in chlorinated pools can inflame the ovaries and cause jawline acne.

Do you spend a lot of time under the sun?

Yes

No

Prolong sun exposure can exacerbate acne.

What do you do for a living? ____________________________________________________ Do you have a stressful job?

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

No No No No No

Changes in diet can affect acne flare-ups. Dairy, acidic foods and hormones in meat can cause acne as well.

Drugs

Lifestyle choices Do you exercise regularly?

Do you wash your face right after you work out?

Do you eat a lot of dairy?

Do you eat organic?

Do you eat a lot of acidic foods?

Are you getting enough alkaline foods?

Do you take antacids?

Yes

What prescription and over the counter medications are you taking? ____________________________________________________ Be aware of all medications, antibiotics and recreational drugs that your client takes. Antibiotics can cause candida acne and prevent skin from responding to treatment. Other drugs may induce acne such as Danazol, Dilantin, marijuana, crack, steroids, birth control pills.

Spa treatments What recent treatments have you had? ____________________________________________________ Stimulating treatments such as peels, microdermabrasion may trigger acne flare-ups.

No

Stress can also cause candida and/or ovarian acne.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 51

ACNE guide

Breakouts in the forehead and upper cheeks are most likely related to candida. Breakouts around the mouth are often linked to diet, while breakouts in the male pattern (beard line, jawline, back and chest) raise ovarian concerns for women and malnutrition for men.

Diet

ACNE MANAGEMENT in between treatments 5.

1.

6.

3.

7.

2.

1.PCA SKIN • bpo 5% Cleanser pcaskin.com

2. ILIKE

• Sulphuric Whipped Moisturizer szepelet.com

3. BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY • Mini Peel Pads Multi-acid Complex bellaschneiderbeauty.com

8.

4.

4. VIVODERM NATURAL SKINCARE • Anti-Acne Facial Mask vivoderm.com

5. OSEA MALIBU • Ocean Cleansing Mudd oseamalibu.com

7. EVOLOGIE • Stay Clear Cream evologie.com

8. SKIN SCRIPT RX • Cranberry Turnover Peel skinscriptrx.com

6. PULSADERM • LED Blue Light Therapy pulsaderm.com

Page 52 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Because home care is an essential part…

17.

10.

15.

13.

12.

9.

11.

14.

16.

9. CIRCADIA

12. BALANCED GURU

15. OXYGENETIX

10. SHEA TERRA ORGANICS

13. ZATIK BEAUTY ESSENTIALS

16. EVANHEALY THE SKIN BREATHES

• Cocoa Activator • Cocoa Enzyme circadia.com

• African Aloe Topical Gel sheaterraorganics.com

11. ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE • Clear Skin Probiotic Moisturizer eminenceorganics.com

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

• Astringent Masque balancedguru.com

• Lavender Licorice Organic Clear Complexion Toner zatiknatural.com

14. THALGO

•Thalgodermyl Purifying Extracts thalgousa.com

• Oxygenating Foundation Acne Control oxygenetix.com

• Blemish Face Care Kit evanhealy.com

17. JENETIQA

• Lift Maestro Botanical Enzymatic Peel jenetiqa.com

lneonline.com • Page 53

… of the fight against acne…

2.

4.

1.

7.

3.

5.

1.SOMME INSTITUTE

• Starter Kit 5-Step Regimen with MDT5 sommeinstitute.com

2. REPÊCHAGE

• Hydramedic Beta Hydroxy Serum repechage.com

3. RHONDA ALLISON • Mandelic Arginine Serum rhondaallison.com

4. DAWN LORRAINE SKINCARE • Fruit Acid Cleansing Scrub dawnlorraine.com

5. DOREY AROMATHERAPY • Break Out Ban doreyaromatherapy.com

6.

8.

7. LIGHTSTIM

• LightStim Professional Blue lightstim.com

8. 100% PURE

• Purity Hydrating Tonique Acne Care 100percentpure.com

6. SAIAN

• Spot Treatment saian.net

Page 54 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

… Get your clients on the road to success…

14.

16.

11.

13.

17.

9.

10.

12.

15.

9.TURO SKIN CARE

12. VIKTORIA DÉANN

15. SUPRACOR

10. ASTARA SKIN CARE

13. MATIS-PARIS

16. MYBODY

11. GLYMED PLUS

14. JUNE JACOBS

• Anti Acne Spot Treatment turoskin.com

• Blue Flame Purifying Treatment astaraskincare.com

• Serious Action Skin Gel with Tea Tree Oil glymedplus.com

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

• Pepti-acne viktoriadeann.com

• Réponse Pureté myrdm.com

• Anti-aging Blemish Control Foaming Cleanser junejacobs.com

• Spacells supracor.com

• Glow Forward Thermal Probiotic Enzyme Treatment lovemybody.com

17. NATURE PURE LABS • Acne Wash Cleanser naturepure.com

lneonline.com • Page 55

… with this selection of cleansers, exfoliators…

4.

5.

8.

7.

2.

10.

1.

3.

1. SUKI

• Rescue Purifying Acne Serum sukiskincare.com

2. CONTROL CORRECTIVE • Acne Treatment Cream controlcorrective.com

3. DERMAWARE

• True Beauty Peel Illuminating Eraser dermaware.com

4. DOCTOR BABOR

• Ultimate Blemish Reducing Cream us.babor.com

6.

9.

5. PROVENCE COSMETICS

8. OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKINCARE

6. BION

9. CHRISTINA

• Extrem' Peel Instant Skin Smoother provencecosmetics.com

• Acne Control: 1. Bacteriostat Cleanser 2. Follicle Clearing Lotion 3. Green Tea Clay Poultice 4. Moisture Complex bionresearch.com

7. SPRAYOLOGY

• Harmonized H2O Natural Defense osmosisskincare.com

• Purifying Cinnamon Mask christina-usa.com

10. PURE CODE BODYCARE

• Blue Ray Acne Treatment Pen purecodebodycare.com

• Acne Tonic sprayology.com

Page 56 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

… blemish control, clay, LED lights and more…

16.

13.

18.

15.

11.

12.

14.

11. DECLÉOR

• Aroma Pureté Imperfections Roll' On decleorusa.com

12. YÜM GOURMET SKINCARE • Sugar Care Exfoliating Serum yumskincare.com

13. MAI COUTURE

• Salicylic Acid Blemish Control Blotting Papier maicouture.com

17.

15. D'VINE

• Vinotherapy Muscat Spot Sérum dvinellc.com

16. JAN MARINI • Age Intervention Duality janmarini.com

17. IF SKIN CARE • Nano-Silver Silk Protein Ultimate Cleanser ifskincare.com

19.

20.

18. EARTHBODY SACRED SKINCARE

• Purify Cleanser & Mask Acne Fighter earthbodyskincare.com

19. GLO THERAPEUTICS • Clear Anti-Blemish Treatment gloprofessional.com

20. LIRA CLINICAL

• ICE Clear Stick Acne Spot Treatment liraclinical.com

14. DERMAESTHETICS BEVERLY HILLS • Clear Complex PM Purity Gel dermaestheticsusa.com

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 57

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Page 58 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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lneonline.com • Page 59

SPA of the

MONTH The Spa at Miami Beach EDITION Hotel Miami Beach, Fla.

Page 60 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

By Nathalie

Gouillou

T

he marble white spiral staircase leads to clear glass French doors. On their left, metallic letters spell the word “SPA,” nothing less, nothing more. As the heavy doors close behind, long shelves set against a pearly white wall, featuring luxurious products neatly arranged, greet visitors, while a soothing music that seemingly floats in the air charms and appeases their spirits.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

As they continue their venture past the boutique and the beauty salon, guests are taken through a long corridor with dimmed lights that ends at the center of the spa, the relaxation room.

Featuring white contemporary furniture, rattan coffee tables, sofa beds surrounded by drapery and accented with vintage Moroccan carpets—as lanterns of all sizes sit on the floor—the space reflects the philosophy of the Spa at Miami Beach EDITION Hotel: simple yet modern.

lneonline.com • Page 61

spa | spa of the month (Continue Here) Located at the heart of one of America’s premier coastal resort cities, and set on a three and a half acre private enclave that stretches to the ocean shoreline, Miami Beach EDITION Hotel is the latest venture of renowned hotelier Ian Schrager.

With just 4 months in operations—the Miami Beach EDITION had a soft opening in early November 2014—the Spa has kept busy, so much so, says Spa Director Adriana Hernandez that she’s already in the process of hiring more staff, including massage therapists and skin care specialists, to accommodate her growing clientele.

Assembling the Team In order to put together her ultimate team (at the time of writing the Spa counted eight massage therapists and two estheticians), Hernandez hand picked her staff from local beauty and massage schools. “I know which are the best schools for massage therapists and look for what training they do every year,” she says.

Among her criteria for massage therapists: no less than a year of massage before hiring. Practicals, where massages or skin treatments are performed on management, are also a must. Then there’s the recitation part, where hires to be must blurt out the core values of EDITION Hotels in order to earn themselves a “Black Card” and the job. The size of a business card, the Black Card contains the guiding principles and beliefs that EDITION staff is expected to uphold at all times. Fun, short and to the point, the principles (such as #5 “don’t be a skunk,” or #12 “chop chop”) are meant as daily reminders to employees of the conduct expected of them.

Training Before opening date, Hernandez says, staff was put through a massive 11/2 week training conducted by their consulting company and vendors. Technical training, Hernandez continues, is ongoing.

Spa employees meet twice a day for a morning and afternoon line up that’ll last about 20 minutes. At 8:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m., staff has its “Daily Edition,” says Hernandez.

“We go over guests that are in house, our ideals, our core value, what we need to focus on,” she says.

“For example one thing we’ve worked on is be an owner.

If you walk around the spa and you see some garbage don’t wait for the proper department to come clean it up, pick it up, do it.”

Then at their monthly meetings, employees get to suggest protocols, discuss any issue that needs to be addressed, and share what they’ve learned. “We also look at who was the most requested therapist,” says Hernandez. “We will have the most requested massage therapist give a massage while the others watch so they can learn from each other.”

Page 62 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

spa | spa of the month

Marketing

Membership

Perhaps it’s the hype attached to Schrager’s name, the excitement surrounding yet another Miami Beach luxe hotel, or its official opening for Art Basel (which stages the world’s premier modern and contemporary art shows). Whatever it might be, the Miami Beach EDITION, which counts 294 guest rooms as well as 26 residences, has seemingly made its place on the map smoothly. “We do have a marketing company,” says Hernandez, “but we mostly rely on word of mouth. One of our residents books our 120 minutes massage twice a week and he already brought in 20 people for mani/pedis.”

The EDITION Spa also doesn’t use social media, so they have no Facebook or Twitter presence. “The less it’s out there, the more intrigued people get,” says Hernandez. “We also had a lot of tours. Every single coordinator was trained to do a tour, show the spa area and explain treatments. Also we had every employee try every single treatment. How can you sell something if you haven’t experienced it?”

If hotel guests might naturally succumb to the spa’s “call,” locals are enticed with a yearly membership (from $3,000 up to $7,000 depending on whether it’s an individual or a family plan) that gives them a 15 percent discount on every outlet of the hotel, beach access, and parking for $5. “We got 20 something members the first week,” Hernandez says—the Spa counted 57 in early January.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

The Spa has kept busy, so much so, says Spa Director Adriana Hernandez that she’s already in the process of hiring more staff, including massage therapists and skin care specialists, to accommodate her growing clientele.

lneonline.com • Page 63

spa | spa of the month

The Spa at Miami Beach EDITION Hotel

2901 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, FL 33140 editionhotels.com

1. Facts: • Launched: December 4, 2014 • The hotel is the latest venture of Ian Schrager

2. Facility: 294 guest rooms, including suites and 28 private bungalows Nine spa treatment rooms (five massage rooms, two skin care rooms, one body treatment room, one detox room with steam and shower) A beauty lounge, including three pedicure stations, two manicure stations, and one blow dry hair salon station.

The Menu The Spa menu reflects its philosophy, simple and to the point.

It’s a one-page tear sheet where guests get to mark the services they wish to receive. Treatments are clearly labeled and descriptions kept very short. “Long list of services can confuse people,” says Hernandez, “we want simplicity. It’s been very well received by our guests.”

Their signature treatment is the Power Nap (30 minutes, $25). Sold as an add on to other services (slated to be a stand alone treatment in the future), the nap combines the comfort of a bed with the technology of microcurrent (the machine is attached to the guest’s ears with the use of clip-ons), which, Hernandez says, simulates four hours of sleep. “It’s phenomenal,” she says, “it’s our top seller, [guests] add it to every single treatment.”

Their Build a Massage, where guests get to tick their choices for touch, style, oil/lotion, is another favorite (60/90/120 minutes, $160/$235/$315).

Reflecting the Spa’s simplistic philosophy, the Reboot treatment is described as such: Travel recovery or undo the excesses of Miami nightlife, Steam/Body Mask with Infrared Sauna/Hair & Scalp/Massage (90/120 minutes, $245/$325).

The Oxygen Infusion Facial cools and calms skin with pressurized oxygen, while serums are layered to lift, plump and firm (60 minutes, $165). Combining modern, simple and Zen, The Spa at Miami Beach EDITION Hotel is a refuge from the bustling city life, where guests can reenergize before taking on yet another exciting day. n

One state of the art 24-hour fitness center, including strength training, weight and cardio equipment, as well as fitness classes such as outdoor yoga and beach boot camp.

3. Staff: Eight massage therapists | Two estheticians

4. Product Lines Used And Retailed: Dermaquest, IntraCeuticals, Rica, Elemental Herbology, Jurlique, Clarisonic, Supergoop!, Sachajuan, Soleil Toujours, Jabonería Marianella, Morihata, African Botanics, Grown Alchemist, Dr. Hauschka, NuFace, Organic4Male, Sjal, Tata Harper, Kahina Giving Beauty, Ovando, Oliver + Co, Ulrich Lang, Loree Rodkin, Mayron’s Goods, Jao, Joya, Mine Luxury Nail Lacquer, Lipsmart, Ilia, GrandeLash

5. Signature Treatments: • Build a Massage and Power Nap *The Spa plans to revamp its menu every 6 months based on feedback from guests, members and residents.

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com.

Page 64 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

spa | spa of the month

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #305 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 65

What works for our clinical survival as massage therapists is to stop applying all this weight through the hands and use other body parts to deliver real force and power.

The forearms alone provide us with a whole variety of different surfaces, perfectly suitable for massage.

Photos Courtesy of Steven Lord

Page 66 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

NO HANDS MASSAGE APPROACH KNEADING STRICTLY WITH OTHER BODY PARTS

By Gerry Pyves

A SURREAL BEGINNING

I

must admit that I was just a little surprised to find that I had collapsed onto my client’s back and was staring down at the carpet on the other side of the table…

As a private massage therapist, I had spent several years enjoying a very successful and exclusive practice in West Hampstead, London. Then disaster struck—both of my wrists were injured on the same day—the second while I was actually treating a client! “Luckily,” I had passed out and collapsed onto this client and awoke seconds later with him actually purring at the deep pressure I was applying with my full body weight! I realized that I had collapsed onto the very softest parts of my fore-

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

arms, so that my weight was transferred onto his back (in a very well distributed way). This was the beginning of NO HANDS ®.

That was in 1988. During the next 12 years, I explored and tried out every possible hands-free variation of massage that you can imagine—all the time carefully monitoring the feedback of my clients. Throughout this time, like any successful massage therapist, I had to deliver deep treatments that made my clients get off the table saying “Wow!” Luckily, with my new discovery, I was able to continue seeing between seven and 12 clients a day, 5 to 6 days a week.

lneonline.com • Page 67

spa | no hands massage approach

THE INJURY PROBLEM There are few professions that require such a high level of physical fitness, flexibility and overall health as massage. Even professional athletes do not expect to continue beyond the age of 40. Yet as massage therapists, we hope to be able to continue working for as long as we want. So we must take our own health very seriously if we wish to survive in the profession.

The problem is this: For deep and effective massage, we need to apply downward force. It’s really that simple. We cannot get away from this single, inescapable fact. Nor can we escape the forces of Newtonian physics, which can be explained by the following diagram:

Therapist’s BodyWeight Initiating Force

Therapist’s Hand Returning Force

Client’s Inert Body

Page 68 • lneonline.com

You will see that the meeting point of all these forces is the hand. The medical and scientific evidence for injury resulting from repetitive movements of this kind of pressure is overwhelming.

PROPER BODY MECHANICS I often hear the mantra, “you cannot get injured if you use proper body mechanics.” Actually, the truth is that the more “proper” your body mechanics become, the more likely you are to sustain injury. This is because if you align your body behind a massage stroke and apply deep, effective pressure, you are releasing that force through your wrists.

Newton’s second law of motion (for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction) tells us that the client’s unmoving body then sends those very same forces straight back into the wrist.

As massage therapists, we hope to be able to continue working for as long as we want. So we must take our own health very seriously if we wish to survive in the profession.

1 800 361.1361 www.francelaure.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #199 on reader service card

spa | no hands massage approach

A QUIET AND SLOW REVOLUTION

SEVEN POSTURAL KEYS

For the next 12 years of full time clinical practice, I continued to perform treatments and refused to use any movements that might damage my own body. This meant throwing out techniques I had been taught and starting from scratch with just my knowledge of Swedish massage. I was only interested in the feedback of my clients, and whether or not they rebooked.

The simple truth is this: What works for our clinical survival as massage therapists is to stop applying all this weight through the hands and use other body parts to deliver real force and power. The forearms alone provide us with a whole variety of different surfaces, perfectly suitable for massage.

The idea behind my no-hands approach is not about the “techniques,” but rather the principles of movement behind all effective zero strain massage. There are just seven of them, and when properly understood and used, they guarantee a career of clinical effectiveness, ease and health. These came out of the treatment room. They have nothing to do with the “proper body mechanics” touted by most massage schools. Here they are:

HARA: This involves a continuous connection with your breath and your belly during every millimeter of every movement. Simply stand and allow yourself to feel the movement of your lower belly as you breathe in and out. As you breathe in, your lower belly expands.

SOLE: This involves being able to feel every movement you make in your body through tiny changes of pressure in the soles of your feet.

FLOW: This involves moving from your hips, not your back or shoulders, and creating a massage that is a continuous single stroke for a full hour.

FALLING: This involves letting your whole body weight

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your movements—a focus that goes way beyond the alignment of your whole body behind the movement. I call it a “pre-technique” in that it’s about your awareness of your entire body before each stroke.

KNEELING: This position involves delivering strokes from a kneeling position in a way that opens up your chest and keeps your back truly vertical.

Ideally, we are aware of all seven of these postural keys during every single massage stroke that we deliver. Here is what that looks like on just four out of more than 100 completely original strokes.

Page 70 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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lneonline.com • Page 71

spa | no hands massage approach

The Hook By locking onto the acromion of the client’s shoulder with the soft fleshy part of the lower arm (proximal anterior surface) and flexing from the hips and knees, the practitioner can apply body weight to all the muscles of the client’s shoulder girdle. This involves no effort on the practitioner’s part, except for the use of the legs and hips!

The Statue of Liberty By utilizing the support of a stool and the upraised leg, the practitioner is able to place the client’s arm securely, enabling massage of both the upper and lower arms simultaneously.

The Compressor By applying full body weight through the soft surface of the forearm, the practitioner can compress all the joints from the foot to the cranium. This is followed by a decompressive move from a similar position.

Page 72 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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spa | no hands massage approach

The Hand Press From a comfortable kneeling position, the practitioner can apply full upper body weight into the client’s hand. The practitioner’s lower hand is monitoring the amount of structural realignment in the bones due to this amount of pressure.

Gerry Pyves has been a massage practitioner for more than 28 years, and is the founder and creator of NO HANDS® Massage. He now trains instructors to teach his approach worldwide. For more information about the first courses that are running in the United States, visit nohandsmassage.com.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #165 on reader service card

Now that you understand what NO HANDS is and how it evolved, I encourage you to think about your own health first, and your clients, second. If you get injured, then how do they ever get the benefit of your massage? n

Page 74 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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MULTI-USe Beaming White’s Futura Face uses eight different light wavelengths to perform specific functions, says the company. Its blue light targets acne and whitens teeth, amber addresses redness, orange revitalizes, green calms, cyan soothes, purple rejuvenates cells, and red is for anti-aging, there is also infrared.

866.944.8315 beamingwhite.com

HAIR AWAY Aerolase’s LightPod Neo 650-microsecond laser-generated heat is effectively sealed within the follicle, increasing temperature faster, says the company. The pain-free technology, which works on tanned or darker skin types, results in a substantial increase in treatment efficacy on fair skin and lighter hairs.

914.218.0656 aerolase.com

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

SPANews

NO PAIN TECH

Visit LNEonline.com for more news

InMode Aesthetics’ latest Diolaze is a hair removal device that combines speed, efficiency and comfort, says the company. Its Sapphire Laser cooling plate chills the skin and provides extra cooling temperatures pre- and post-procedure. The device transforms into a virtual ice cube, numbing skin and preventing patients from feeling discomfort during hair reduction.

855.411.2639 inmodemd.com

RF SOPHISTICATION EndyMed’s latest Shaper handpiece for skin tightening and contouring on the body is powered by multisource 3DEEP radiofrequency (RF) technology, which directs focused and controlled heat into deep layers of the skin, says the company. The device is ideal for the treatment of larger areas and allows for shorter treatment time.

855.363.9633 endymed.com

Page 76 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

THE LOOK OF

AGELESS BEAUTY Nothing says youthful beauty like dramatic lashes and bold brows.

Get the look at revitalash.com 877.909.5274

RevitaLash Advanced not available in California. ©2014 Athena Cosmetics, Inc. ®

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #346 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 77

FROM P

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IC Y-R H G

E ENER UR

AW EE D

YOUR SECOND CHANCE FOR A FLAWLESS COMPLEXION

CELL RENEWAL Page 78 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Since 1980, we have created proprietary formulations that deliver smoother, younger - looking skin. Based on the powers of seaweed and natural botanicals, the Repêchage® Cell Renewal Collection envelops the skin with 12 Vitamins 18 Amino Acids 42 Trace Elements and Minerals

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ISO

CERTIFIED QUALITY SYSTEM 2015

lneonline.com • Page 79

LNE & SPA

CHAT

With Shannon Mariani Spa Director at the Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas

by Laetitia Longuefosse

Shannon Mariani is the spa director at the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas, Nev. She started off her career in the beauty industry at an early age when she used to accompany her mother, who owned a hair salon in Colorado, to work. She then gained experience managing luxury spas such as The Spa at Trump Hotel & Tower Chicago, Ill., and Spa Salon Vdara at Vdara Hotel & Spa in Las Vegas, Nev.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life?

I have come to realize that managing stress—in all forms—really is what my job is about. Whether it’s stress for the guests, stress for my employees or stress that I feel myself, I really focus

on the facts and how to work past it rather than the feeling in the moment.

What do you like most about your job?

I like the many different hats I’m able to wear, I can go from one minute being in the operation very hands on, to speaking with a guest, to creating menus and services to financial meetings. My day is never boring and I like that!

Can you describe the Spa at Four Seasons Las Vegas?

The Spa at Four Seasons is extremely intimate and brings the experience back to an authentic one, where the service is results driven and catered to [the guest and the guest’s only] specifics.

Can you give us a breakdown of your spa’s revenue composition?

It’s 55 percent massage, 17 percent facials, 15 percent retail, 10 percent nails, and 3 percent body.

How do you select the people who are going to be working with you?

We currently have 45 employees total. We are very lucky as our service providers are all very tenured employees at our location specifically or have transferred from other Four Seasons properties. We have a very in depth interview process, where many different people are involved, meeting the potential candidate and interviewing them to ensure the proper selection is made.

Page 80 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Who is your typical client?

How do you train the staff?

A property wide new hire orientation is conducted that all new hires must attend, then a departmental training is conducted. We use the full 90 days to encourage people to grow and learn, checking in with them extensively the first two weeks, and then every 30 days thereafter. We also hold monthly departmental meetings and check in with all employees.

What can you tell us about your marketing techniques?

We do a combination of social media (Facebook, Instagram and Twitter) and hotel promotional offerings. The most important thing is ensuring that our guests think of coming to the Spa while here in Las Vegas—so however we can get our name in front of them and get them thinking about “relaxing” we do it!

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

It’s 60 percent female and 40 percent male. Seventy-two percent of our business comes from guests staying at the hotel, and 4 percent of our business comes from locals who drive in to see us.

How do you keep local customers loyal?

It all goes back to the experience.

Guests expect the Spa at Four Seasons to be pampering and luxurious beyond compare… we ensure that we deliver on that expectation every time that they visit us.

Where is the retail area?

The retail area is in the very opening entrance of the Spa reception area and is the first thing one sees when entering. Additionally we have small vitrines located throughout the Spa treatment area and locker rooms with different seasonal and retail displays.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach retail goals?

We do different incentives each month, anything from personal goals and team goals, to contests to sell a specific item or the highest quantity of a new item. When buying our retail we always make sure that it is something the team wants, or has mentioned, this helps us in the long run to sell. n

The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas • 15 treatment rooms: 12 massage rooms, three facial rooms. In addition there are two private nail rooms.

• Favorite treatments: Four Seasons Custom Massage, where everything is customized from the oil, the pressure, the room temperature and the music.

Four Seasons Ultimate Facial, where a unique glycolic blend improves texture and tone.

lneonline.com • Page 81

BEST

SOCIAL PLATFORMS Esthetician for the

Page 82 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

IN TODAY’S BUSINESS WORLD, there are multiple social media platforms

available to the esthetician—and even more are springing up on a daily basis. With so many to choose from, it’s important to figure out where to put your energy and decide on the channels that will work best for your business.

Studies show that 70 percent of social media users are looking to see what others’ experiences with your services have been like, and 65 percent want to know more about your business —you should want to be a part of these conversations in order to have a say. Of all the platforms available, Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and LinkedIn are most useful to the esthetician.

by Alison Walkley March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 83

business | best social platforms for the esthetician

FACEBOOK Facebook is the largest social media platform and often the first customers go to when looking for your business.

Once you have a personal Facebook page, you are able to create a business page. Upload your business logo, or a photo that speaks to your services, as well as a cover photo—consider a beautiful shot of your treatment room or waiting area. Invite your employees, friends and family to share your page to start encouraging engagement. You can begin by posting a welcome to your new followers, followed by openended questions to drive further engagement and conversation. Examples of open-ended questions include:

1 2 3

What is your favorite professional treatment?

How often do you like to get a facial?

What is the one skin care product you use every day?

Give your fans and followers an excuse to talk about themselves in a variety of ways, including a “Poll of the Day,” a “Did You Know?” post with educational information or fill-in-the-blank status

updates. You can also utilize different monthly themes and holidays (Skin Cancer Awareness Month, Halloween, etc.), or create your own (Maintenance Monday, Trivia Tuesday, etc.) to post.

While there is no word limit to Facebook status updates, research shows that updates that are 80 words or less generate more engagement.

Images with messages are shared more than text-only updates, so consider pairing photos with quotes or a skin care tip that will resonate with your followers.

UPLOAD YOUR BUSINESS LOGO, OR A PHOTO THAT SPEAKS TO YOUR SERVICES, AS WELL AS A COVER PHOTO— CONSIDER A BEAUTIFUL SHOT OF YOUR TREATMENT ROOM OR WAITING AREA. In terms of the different types of posts to consider, make sure you are offering yourself as a skin care resource and not as a mere salesperson. Direct followers to beneficial resources, including blog posts and news pieces related to skin health or the services you offer. Making your content about

your followers 90 percent of the time and your own bottom line only 10 percent generates further engagement and follower retention.

Finally, make sure you’re keeping things interesting and giving followers a reason to keep coming back by changing up your cover photo regularly, and posting consistently. If your weekdays are too busy, you can use the scheduling feature to pre-post your updates for the future.

INSTAGRAM If images are important on Facebook, they are key for Instagram, an imagebased social platform that is growing rapidly in popularity. The more visual the content is, the better. Bright colors, quotations and infographics do well when it comes to shareable content. Consider posting images of your practice, fun product images and don’t forget to “re-gram” photos from other users, including beauty brands and your customers.

You can also cross-post any visuals you have on Facebook; not only will you reinforce your messages with followers who follow you on multiple platforms, but you will engage and convert new followers as well.

Page 84 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

business | best social platforms for the esthetician

PINTEREST Pinterest is the most aspirational of platforms, and people tend to browse this site for a myriad of topics. This platform allows you to not only tap into your customers’ interest in your industry, but reach beyond to their independent interests as well. Consider creating boards with varying topics, from hairstyles to makeup to fashion, and products you’d recommend.

Pin images from a variety of places, such as blogs you follow, your own website and brand websites, too. Like Instagram, Pinterest is an incredibly visual platform; the more compelling the image, the more likely it is for someone to re-pin.

easily recognizable no matter where a potential client goes to find you.

To continuously engage your followers and attract more, share news about your company and educational information related to your industry.

Consider becoming involved in industry groups, where conversations are taking place about skin care products and services in your area. Engage others in your groups around common interests and focus on the quality of your responses as opposed to quantity. Give your personal experience and help others with non-brand-specific advice and information—this will lead to people trusting you and reaching out to you personally, which is the perfect time to be brand- or business-specific.

LinkedIn

TWITTER

LinkedIn is growing faster than ever and is one of the best hubs to create business contacts specifically in your industry. Once you’ve created a company page on LinkedIn, add your business’s specialties under the Products & Services tab, and a banner to make your page pop. Use the same banner as your Facebook page to maintain a consistent look and feel across your channels; this will also help you become

Twitter might be the fastest moving of all social sites, with news feeds updating by the second. Unless you are constantly sending tweets, your updates are likely to get lost in the overall chatter that is happening on this platform 24/7.

If you have the time to spend sending tweets on a daily basis, or preprogramming them through an application like Hootsuite, keep in mind that you

CONSIDER BECOMING INVOLVED IN INDUSTRY GROUPS, WHERE CONVERSATIONS ARE TAKING PLACE ABOUT SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND SERVICES IN YOUR AREA. may not be able to quantify results on this platform easily. Making one-on-one connections over Twitter and leading to quality relationships between individual followers and your business is what Twitter is best used for as opposed to massive lead generation.

Your Twitter activity should be purposeful, relevant and continuous. Offer authentic help to your followers and engage with those posing questions related to your business.

Utilize hashtags in your posts to pull out keywords that others might search to find your tweets. “Retweet” others posting about topics related to your business in order to attract them to follow you back.

For those with limited time during the workday, nights or weekends, however, spending your time on one of the aforementioned platforms might be wise, especially when just starting out in the social media world.

E D IT O R S ’ T IP Updating your social media accounts doesn’t have to be a drag as there are software solutions available that can help you manage, post and monitor multiple accounts at once.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

multiple accounts at once. you manage, post and monitor solutions available that can help a drag as there are software accounts doesn’t have to be 85 lneonline.com • Page Updating your social media

business | best social platforms for the esthetician

soc ial ser vic e & adv ice Recent studies have concluded that consumers are contacting companies and individual businesses for customer service via social media more and more frequently.

This has become such a phenomenon that it’s being called “social care.”

With 47 percent of social media users engaging in “social care,” the more a company or business person is mutually engaged and has the ability to respond to customer comments and questions on social media platforms, the better. When responding to followers over any social channel,

your communication should occur as quickly as possible. Not all comments will be complimentary, so you should also consider how you plan on dealing with complaints. No matter what issue is brought to your attention, acknowledge the problem first, letting the complainant know they’ve been heard and that a solution is on its way.

Next, apologize for any inconvenience the issue may have caused the client and offer the best method to solve their problem, whether it be a product refund if they aren’t pleased with a daily care product’s results; a per-

centage off their next treatment for their trouble; or a voucher for a free trial product the next time they come into your business.

While it’s important to handle many issues on the platform itself to show all followers that you care and are there to help, there may also be instances where you need to take the matter offline. If the client isn’t responding to your solution or fanning the flames and making the issue worse, you may request that they call you, or let them know you’ll be reaching out to them via phone or email.

When posting on any social channel, remember the following recommendations: Bright colors and esthetically pleasing photos will be shared most.

Posting photos or videos generates greater activity than text alone.

Open-ended questions and fill-in-the-blanks are great conversation starters.

Consistent posting schedules will give followers a reason to keep coming back for more content.

For every one post about a business promotion you should have 10 other posts that are educational or ask followers for input.

Always respond to questions, concerns or complaints in a timely manner.

TAK ING THE TIM E It’s important to keep in mind that results on social media are not instantaneous— it takes time to build a following. The more personal you are, the more followers you are likely to attain.

People like “real” on social media— the more they can connect with you, the more likely they are to interact

with you, and the more likely you are to win them over as a customer.

By setting up a presence on just a couple social channels, you will increase awareness of your business and the services you have to offer, which can only further your success moving forward.

Alison Walkley served as the communications manager for international skin care company PCA SKIN® for three years. In her role, she managed all editorial needs for the education and marketing departments, as well as external public relations requests.

Walkley has a passion for people and enjoyed working for a company dedicated to improving people’s lives.

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A collaboration takes networking to the next level in an effort to assertively increase your combined market share by representing both brands with a unified message.

Page 90 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles EsthÊtiques & Spa • March 2015

strategic COLLABORATIONS THE power OF PARTNERSHIP

by David Suzuki

O

n May 28, 2014, Apple announced that it would be purchasing Beats for three billion dollars, making this the single largest collaborative merger in Apple history. The question that many ask is, why? Why collaborate with Beats as opposed to Bose, Sony, or simply developing their own line of audio headphones?

The answer is simple: The pursuit of greatness that can only be achieved with a synergetic collaborative effort. Ask any millennial and they will tell you that Apple and Beats go together like peanut butter and jelly—it just makes sense.

lneonline.com • Page 91

business | strategic collaborations The collaboration itself is intriguing.

Two very successful brands, non-competitive with one another, yet willingly joining forces to achieve something beyond what they could have achieved on their own. This in itself demonstrates commitment to provide greatness to customers. They understand that although they are important brands in today’s culture, they aren’t the only ones.

There’s something organically attractive about this humble ideology.

While the collaboration and eventual purchase of Beats by Apple was a billion dollar situation, the concept and philosophy of their collaboration is no different than what we can achieve as a small business, or even a single skin therapist. The point being is that a team is always stronger than a single all-star.

Networking and Collaborating

presents itself from time to time, in the hopes of reciprocation.

A collaboration on the other hand, takes networking to the next level in an effort to assertively increase your combined market share by representing both brands with a unified message.

As a skin therapist, you can network with a local jewelry store and certainly client share. Yet it may be difficult to fully collaborate due to sharp contrast in the goods and services offered. On the other hand it’s very easy as a skin therapist to have a primary collaboration with a hairdresser or a makeup artist, a secondary collaboration with a nail technician or massage therapist, and a tertiary one with a fitness trainer or local clothier.

While Apple and Beats share a similar market, each maintains a unique reach that couldn’t be accessed without their collaboration. And Apple loyalists who considered Beats, yet weren’t sure about the brand, are now absolutely sold and purchase it without hesitation.

We’ve all been to networking events that serve as a meeting point for local business owners to get to know one another in the hopes of obtaining referral driven businesses. While this works, and is certainly worth the small commitment of time and effort that it requires, it’s much different than a collaboration. The premise behind networking is to create a library of companies and contacts to refer business to as opportunity

Right about now you may be scratching your head, as these scenarios seemingly describe a full service salon or spa. Or do they? A full service spa or salon markets a single brand, building that brand from the ground up.

A collaboration of a successful skin therapist and a successful makeup artist for example, would take two already leading brands and combine their power. Just like Apple and Beats, the synergy, culture and clientele must be a good match for the collaboration to make sense. Whom you collaborate with makes the difference.

Expansion of a Like Kind Market

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March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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business | strategic collaborations

How Does it Look?

Most collaborations begin and function with the intent of keeping YOUR business—it doesn’t mean that you’re joining together to create a third business, simply sharing clientele to gain a rapid and sustainable expansion.

Product Placement and Events Product, brand or service placement can be done in many ways to establish collaborative communication.

-

Holiday season and special occasion events: Active events where both professionals would be offering services for a fee as well as retail in one central location to both databases. Joint email blasts and advertisements are a great way to market the events.

* Remember that a strategic collabora-

Reciprocal statements on the menu and website including reciprocal links.

“For a perfect finish we exclusively use (makeup brand) supplied by (name of makeup artist, her company brand/ logo and all contact information).”

-

Physical product in treatment rooms and waiting area, as well as brochures.

-

Social media that include quick messaging and imagery creating the visual of the collaboration.

* While you may be client sharing, you likely aren’t sharing the same location and space. That being said, it’s very strategic to create a series of events that highlight both companies, services and products.

-

Evening event: “Beautiful skin and

the perfect finish. Learn about skin care products and services that will help your skin stay healthy, young and beautiful, and create the perfect finish

tion has nothing to do with surrendering your business. On the contrary, it’s all about pursuing greatness, growth and business gains by utilizing a very forward thinking business model with proven success. n

with mineral makeup and the latest forward thinking application techniques.”

* During such an event, you would invite both databases, share the stage and quickly process through two to three models with a mini facial and the perfect makeup application.

-

Road trip: Every other week, spend a day at each other’s business to offer quick complimentary mini facials, makeovers, etc. Have your menu, retail, and schedule with you. You will be giving services, booking appointments and supplying retail on the spot!

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com.

Page 94 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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NEW LINE Katavi Botanicals, an all-natural skin care range that draws on indigenous South African extracts, debuted in the U.S. market. Based on the unique selection of “Big 5” cosmetic superfruits native to Africa—Kigelia, Baobab, Marula, Mongongo, and Moringa—Katavi harnesses the power of these natural wonders, says the company.

844.528.2840 katavibotanicals.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

MEMBERS APPOINTMENT

Visit LNEonline.com for more news

Performance Health announces the appointment of its 2015 Scientific Advisory Committee (SAC).

The 18 appointees represent five countries and expertise in physical therapy, chiropractic, exercise science, athletic training, and massage therapy.

The SAC meets once a year to present research and findings on TheraBand, Biofreeze, and Cramer Sports Medicine products.

800.321.2135 performancehealth.com

launching at Miami beach congress POWER EVENT Repêchage hosted its Network Power Lunch where it unveiled its new Repêchage SeaSmooth Artisan Seaweed wax. With select seaweeds that deliver vitamins, minerals and trace elements, the wax also features zinc oxide and aloe vera to help reduce irritation.

800.248.SKIN repechage.com

Rubber Ducky introduces Carefree Naturals, its professional only line, including the SPF 50 tinted FACE sunscreen, an SPF 30 untinted FACE & BODY sunscreen, SPF 50 tinted facial stick, matching tinted and untinted lip protectant SPF 30 and the Invizinc SPF 40. Rubber Ducky products are 100% natural, chemical free, biodegradable, and water-resistant.

480.247.7773 carefreenatural.com

PASSING OF A SKIN CARE GIANT Christine Valmy, founder of the first skin care school licensed in the U.S., has passed away at the age of 88. She founded The Christine Valmy International Cosmetics School in New York City in 1966. From 1985 to 1991 she served on the National Council on Vocational Education, where she was appointed by President Ronald Reagan.

christinevalmy.com

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Walnut Leaf A Natural Skin Care Remedy

by

Szilvia Hickman

Page 98 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

W

alnuts are a well-known superfood lauded for their omega-3 fatty acids and ability to lower cholesterol.

But did you know that walnut leaves also serve as a natural treatment for a variety of skin conditions, including acne?

THE walnut leaf The walnut tree originated in the Balkans and grows all over Europe. Its leaf contains flavonoids, tannins, essential oils, and vitamins C and E, to name a few. While it’s known for its numerous nutritional benefits, it’s less commercially known due to its labor-intensive manufacturing.

For centuries, herbalists have recognized the skin healing properties of another part of the walnut tree—its pointy green leaves. Recently, however, the delicious and easy-tocrack nuts from the walnut tree (Juglans regia) have received attention for their healing nutrients. In fact, the walnut leaf is sometimes referred to as a “miracle worker” for this quality.

Acne The walnut leaf is a wonderful ingredient to incorporate into acne treatments; it provides immediate relief for acneic conditions without stripping away the skin’s nutrients. High concentrations (up to 10 percent) of astringent compounds called tannins account for most of the healing qualities in walnut leaf preparations. While there are many herbs containing tannins that act as astringents to treat a variety of skin conditions, the walnut leaf is one of the more commonly reported tannin-containing herbs.

Tannins are polyphenols that reduce inflammation in the skin and work to combat free radicals with their antioxidant properties. They tighten and constrict tissues, making them valuable for protecting areas of skin, controlling inflammation and itching. Plants produce tannins to help them grow and protect themselves in the wild. Tannins are vital for a plant’s reproduction and regeneration process, and some of those features translate into effective skin care properties. This chemical compound has also been shown to have antibacterial properties, which can be helpful in reducing acne or cleaning pores.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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organic & wellness | walnut leaf Additional skin benefits

Internal application The walnut leaf has been utilized for its internal benefits as well. Walnut leaf tea has historically been used for anti-toxic cleansing, sore throats, gastroenteritis problems, diarrhea and boosting appetite. In folk medicine, it’s used to cleanse the blood, help liver func tions and suppor t blood circulation.

Modern day herbalists use black walnut hulls and leaves primarily as a vermifuge, an agent that rids the body of parasites.

An infusion (tea) of the leaves or tincture of the green hulls can also address a variety of skin complaints and infectious diseases including eczema, dandruff, impetigo, poison ivy and athlete’s foot.

KEY INGREDIENT Incorporating skin care products formulated with walnut leaf into your treatments makes a great option that is both immediate and long term for skin prone to blackheads, blemishes and acne breakouts.

This key ingredient improves and refines unbalanced skin complexions, while preventing and controlling future breakouts for an ultimately clearer, smoother complexion. n Szilvia

Hickman

is co-owner and senior vice president of Szép Élet, the exclusive distributor

of

ilike

organic skin care.

She is also a member of the Green Spa Network Personal Care Product Committee

(greenspanetwork.org).

Visit szepelet.com. Hickman can be reached at shickman@szepelet.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #316 on reader service card

The walnut leaf has historically been used mainly for wound healing due to its astringent, antibacterial and antiinflammatory properties.

An intriguing survey of older farmers and shepherds in central Italy, published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology in 1999, found that the walnut leaf was one of the local plants most frequently used for repelling insects and treating parasitic infections on the skin in generations past.

This healing application has been supported by research that demonstrates that walnut leaves have bacteria-killing, anti-parasitic and insectrepelling properties.

In skin care today, walnut leaf is used as a toning, anti-inflammatory, anti-toxic, cleansing and conditioning agent, as well as an astringent. It’s an effective active ingredient in calming, soothing, regenerating skin care products for sensitive, inflamed, dehy-

drated, and problematic skin. Topical formulations of walnut leaf are now being used as treatments for psoriasis and mild and superficial eczema.

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look look

For a For a glamourous glamourous

BEFORE BEFORE

AFTER

AFTER Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #287 on reader service card

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lneonline.com • Page 101

Wilderness Dreamers

Wesley Walker / Shutterstock.com

Indigenous Australian Inspired Treatments

Page 102 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

by

Nathalie Gouillou

I

ncorporating indigenous Australian inspired treatments at your locale could be a colorful and intriguing way to address, in a unique fashion, your clients’ yearning for wholesome care that also nourishes the mind. If modern man craves a return to a more primal connection to life, the beliefs of the aborigines could be much inspiration and healing for his soul and body.

Follow us into our quick journey into the outback as we give you a simple breakdown on how to easily incorporate Indigenous Australian inspired treatments into your facility.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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organic & wellness | wilderness dreamers

Travel with the Senses Hearing Transport your client to the faraway land of the kangaroo where dramatic rocks soar from the earth adorned with primitive paintings, and dry bushes seemingly sprout sporadically. Simply appeal to their auditory sense. Play music that includes the age-old and famed musical instrument of the Aboriginal people, the didgeridoo—a long and hollow piece of wood— which deep droning hum seems to reverberate from earlier times and will bring your client into a meditative state.

Sight Help your client connect with the Dreamtime (see below) by having them choose an animal totem, their spiritual ally for the time being.

Aborigines believe that during the Dreamtime physical forms were more fluid, a goanna ancestor could change into a human and back— thus reinforcing the strong bond between past and present, humans and animals that pervades among Indigenous Australians (the goanna is a monitor lizard of Australia).

Smell Captivate their sense of smell to whisk them to destination with the unique aroma of Eucalyptus, which helps fight off mental fatigue and triggers an increase in concentration and wellbeing. Perhaps start off the treatment with a short smoking ceremony reminiscent of Native American smudging, where sacred herbs are burned to cleanse a person or a place from negative energy. Here Eucalyptus would also be the herb of choice, yet burning incense can be a great alternative to dry leaves.

The Dreamtime A long time ago giant creatures inhabited the earth. They were animals, insects or plants endowed with human characteristics. As they wandered across the land, rummaging for food and water, their heavy steps and gargantuan bodies molded the landscape and from their movements came the mountains, ravines, rivers and streams. It was the Dreamtime. According to Australian Aboriginal mythology, the ancestral beings defined the scenery that we know today and, once perhaps content with their making, immortalized themselves into stars, rocks, trees or watering holes—sacred sites that are believed to hold special properties.

By passing on Dreamtime stories, Aboriginal people—the descendants of the ancestral spirits—transmit important knowledge, cultural values, belief systems and laws from one generation to the next. The land is sacred and so are the animals and plants that inhabit it for they are entwined and deeply connected to the mystical time. The Aborigines of Australia are a deeply spiritual people whose beliefs dating back nearly 60,000 years ago—considered to be among the longest uninterrupted cultural history in human groups worldwide—are still observed today.

Page 104 • lneonline.com

DIAMONDTOME THE NEXT GENERATION

CONTINUING THE EVOLUTION OF SKIN RESURFACING, ALTAIR INSTRUMENTS IS PROUD TO INTRODUCE THE NEXT GENERATION IN CRYSTAL FREE MICRODERMABRASION. USING THE HYDROPLUS TECHNIQUE COMBINES DRY EXFOLIATION FOLLOWED BY SERUM INFUSION TO CREATE THE MOST EFFECTIVE SKIN REJUVENATION TREATMENT.

TRUSTED FOR INNOVATION, QUALITY AND DESIGN THE NEW

DELIVERS.

Improve the texture and appearance of your skin with our Vitamin C serum

altairinstruments.com March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 105

organic & wellness | wilderness dreamers

Touch Aboriginal inspired treatments could be anything from facials to body scrubs and massages. The idea is to choose plants that hold a special meaning to Indigenous Australians. Spiritual doctors often rubbed their ailing patients with a paste of crushed seeds, fruits, herbs, animal and vegetable oil, or sap. Eucalyptus, the macadamia nut and its oil, lemon grass, tea tree, Kakadu plum—among the richest source of vitamin C—holy basil, and hibiscus qualify as Bush medicine that are easily accessible ingredients for your body treatments.

Eucalyptus: Known today for its fresh and clean aroma, the eucalyptus also has antibacterial, antiinflammatory and analgesic properties. Aborigines have long understood its benefits and have extracted oil from leaves to rub on wounds and massage aching muscles.

Macadamia: Indigenous Australians not only feasted on macadamia nuts but also used its oil for rejuvenation and to treat ailments. High in monounsaturated fatty acids that promote moisture and soften skin, these also act as anti-inflammatory agents beneficial for many skin conditions, and as powerful anti-aging allies.

Lemongrass: It’s an anti-microbial and anti-bacterial herb. It is good for skin issues, to smooth out cellulitis and helps constrict, tighten the skin, and minimize pores.

Tea tree: Aborigines have long used tea tree for its “miracle” properties; it alleviates acne, inflammation, and fights off fungal infections among other things.

Holy basil: A power adaptogen—a substance that enhances the body’s ability to sustain stressors—the Holy basil has anti-bacterial properties, fights acne, soothes inflammation, lightens scars and dark spots and is a strong antioxidant among many. Its scent also appeases the mind.

Hibiscus: The tough bushy plant known for its colorful and fragrant flowers is more than a wonder to the eye; it’s also packed with skin-perfecting antioxidants, and protects against premature aging. Aborigines ate the flowers and buds, and used the fibers to make nets and bags.

Other native plants like kangaroo apple (Solanum laciniatum and Solanum aviculare), also known as Bush tomato; or goat’s foot (Ipomoea pes-caprae), also called beach morning glory, although not readily available (at least not when we searched) carry tremendous beneficial properties—rich in vitamins, free radicals, antioxidants and flavonoids—and are worth keeping an eye on.

Taste Conclude your treatment with a soothing and relaxing eucalyptus, holy basil or hibiscus tea, and perhaps surprise your clients with the smoothness, creaminess, and nutty flavor of macadamia milk in their warm beverage. Offer some refreshing eucalyptus drops, or some decadent chocolate covered macadamia nuts, and allow your clients a smooth reentry from their “dream time.”

Find creative names to market your new Indigenous Australian inspired treatments—do some research and be mindful of your choices to respect Aboriginal people’s beliefs and traditions— and watch as your curious clientele gets drawn into the world of native Australia. n

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at nathalie@lneonline.com.

Page 106 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Get inspired with this selection of products featuring native Australian ingredients...

And whisk your clients to the faraway land down under.

ilike

Outback Organics

Lemon Cleansing Milk szepelet.com

Tea Tree Skin Wash outbackorganicsusa.com

Ingredient: Lemongrass

Ingredient: Tea Tree

The cleanser removes makeup and impurities while hydrating and softening skin.

Grown Alchemist

A gentle face and body wash that deeply cleanses skin without stripping or drying.

Balanced Guru Astringent Masque balancedguru.com

Hydra-Mist: Desert Lime & Amino Peptide davidpirrotta.com

Ingredient: Lemongrass

Ingredient: Hibiscus

A potent masque that brings balance and vigor back to oil skin.

A hydrating mist that softens and boosts skin radiance, while reducing signs of aging.

Li’tya

Éminence Organic Skin Care

Dihlbi Bio Active Facial litya.com

Eucalyptus Cleansing Concentrate eminenceorganics.com

Ingredient: Kakadu Plum The facial treatment targets signs of aging, reduces inflammation and stimulates cellular renewal with a mask and the age defying serum.

Ingredient: Eucalyptus A low foaming gel cleanser that combines the antiseptic qualities of eucalyptus with the calming properties of lavender.

Jindilli BoomaGlam body treatment wholesale.jindilli.com

Ingredient: Macadamia Nut Used with Pure Macadamia Oil and followed by the Hydra-Opulence lotion, this cleansing ritual inspired by ancient traditions of Papua New Guinea, detoxes the body and mind.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 107

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

citrus goodness

Visit LNEonline.com for more news

Norabloom Botanicals’ Cran-Orange Astringent is a toner that contains oranges, cranberries and salicylic acid from the bark of the willow tree. The toner naturally soothes sensitive skin and conditions such as acne.

607.592.8222 norabloom.com

the power of algaEs Repêchage’s Hydra Medic Facial cleanses pores, purifies and controls existing breakouts, while helping to prevent new ones from forming, says the company. It also helps reduce oil from overly active sebaceous glands, while maintaining skin’s moisture balance.

800.248.SKIN repechage.com

botanical goodness Gaelle Organic’s Toner Supérieure is a blend of natural astringents and hydrosols to nurture beautiful skin, says the company. Its pH balanced blend of flower waters and botanical extracts tightens pores, refines skin texture and helps reduce breakouts.

805.640.5286 gaelleorganic.com

AROMATIC BLENDs FarmHouse Fresh introduced its Gourmet Mineral Bath Blends to use in pedi-baths and hydrotherapy tubs, as well as to scent spa linens, says the company. Select from three blends: Lavender & Hibiscus, Green Tea & Marigold, and Coconut Milk-Chicory Root.

888.773.9626 farmhousefreshgoods.com

Page 108 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

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1.877.225.0233 March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa PFBVanish.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #229 on reader service• card lneonline.com Page 109

Let’s Talk

MAKEUP With Janet Calhoun

Owner and Manager at Urban Effects Medspa, Clive, Iowa

Janet Calhoun began her career in the medspa industry more than 20 years ago developing marketing programs, coordinating patient education programs and initiatives, and implementing new products and services in various medspas. She opened Urban Effects Medspa in March 2011 where she focuses on marketing and management.

IMPLEMENTING MAKEUP INTO A SPA WHEN DID YOU DECIDE TO IMPLEMENT MAKEUP INTO YOUR SPA? We incorporated [makeup] from the very beginning of opening our medical spa almost four years ago.

How did you do it?

We are passionate about skin and applying products that have beneficial ingredients. In some cases we will offer our patients a quick application after their Botox or laser treatment. We also hold events to demonstrate and educate our clients/patients about [makeup].

WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO WANT TO IMPLEMENT MAKEUP INTO THE SPA? It’s an awesome way to interact with clients and give them that extra touch to make them feel (and look) special—ready for the rest of their day or evening.

WHERE IS YOUR MAKEUP AREA LOCATED IN THE SPA? We have our [makeup] display in an area that’s semi private—outside our injectable treatment room. This allows our estheticians and providers easy access after facial treatments to apply that quick application before they check out. During event weeks,

Page 110 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

WHAT ARE THE MOST POPULAR RETAIL ITEMS? The most popular products are the corrector palette, primers, compacts and crème foundations, sun protection, kabuki brush and brush on the go sets. we will bring it out into our reception area with appropriate signage of the focus of the event.

THE LINE HOW DID YOU SELECT YOUR MAKEUP LINES? I selected [this] makeup line for the medspa of my brother’s facial plastic surgery practice over 10 years ago.

I felt it was superior quality to other mineral makeup lines that were being offered at the time—and choose to continue providing it when we opened Urban Effects Medspa in 2011.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

DO YOU HAVE SPECIAL PROMOTIONS FOR MAKEUP? We hold events (Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Summer Sun Protection, End of Summer, Holiday). Typically a month out, with follow-up phone calls to schedule appointments and demos.

THE SERVICES REVENUE COMPOSITION WHAT KIND OF MAKEUP SERVICES DO YOU OFFER ON THE MENU? We offer Makeup Touch Ups and Makeup Consultation and Application.

WHICH SERVICE IS THE MOST POPULAR? Makeup Touch Ups. PROMOTION HOW DO YOU PROMOTE YOUR MAKEUP SERVICES? Through seasonal open house and educational events.

HOW PROFITABLE ARE MAKEUP SERVICES? We have a 100 percent markup.

WHERE DOES MAKEUP RANK IN YOUR SPA REVENUE COMPOSITION? I would say about 2 percent—regardless we feel it’s a must to have, we are a young business—and I truly believe the way to increase revenue in the business is with estheticians who are educated and excited about the product line and love to “service” their clients. n

lneonline.com • Page 111

Feature frame

Creating The Perfect Brow

by Ellie

Malmin

As the lash business continues to grow, service providers continue to focus on growing longer, fuller lashes. As a result, there’s a growing need to capitalize on the framework that completes the eye—the eyebrow.

Page 112 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Eyebrow Hair Terms 2 3

4

1

1

Tuff Hair:

The hair that grows straight when referring to the head of the eyebrow.

2

Vellus Hairs:

The soft, fine “peach fuzz” that lacks pigment (can be tinted).

This hair is too weak to hold extensions for a length of time.

3

Stubble:

Hair that was previously removed and is growing back.

4

Terminal Hairs:

A coarse, thick, deeply rooted hair that is pigmented. This is the best hair to attach the extension to vellus hairs.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lneonline.com • Page 113

image | feature frame

EYEBROW EXTENSIONS An eyebrow extension has principals similar to eyelash extensions. Eyebrow extensions are a technique where hairs are attached to other hairs. A hands-on class is required to learn the technical skills of eyebrow extensions in detail.

Duration of treatment: Approximately an hour and a half.

Have you ever seen a beautiful woman with long, luscious lashes and brows that are far from perfect? It’s like a beautiful woman wearing a dress that doesn’t fit.

The brows must be in perfect balance with the eyes, facial shape, and lashes in order to create perfection. Eyebrow corrective services effectively allow your clients’ personality and expressions to shine. They can reshape the eyebrow, fill gaps, cover scars, create length, add fullness, give brows a lift, take away an excessive arch or add the perfect arch.

While corrective eyebrow techniques continue to evolve, we can now achieve perfect brows for our clients through eyebrow extensions, “drop ins” or a combination of both. An overview of all three options is discussed in this article. Note that price tends to be established based on the time necessary to complete the services.

Price range: $75-$250; first-time services tend to be the most expensive, as it takes time to shape them and remove excessive hairs.

How long does it last?

Two to three weeks.

DROP IN BROWS “Drop in brows” are a short-term fix to create the perfect eyebrow. A skin safe adhesive is used to attach the hair to the skin. However some hairs actually can be attached to remaining hairs in order to lengthen them enough to cover an empty space with drop-in brows. Because the hairs are applied directly to the skin for drop-in brows, they don’t last as long, due to the naturally occurring oils in the skin.

Page 114 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #339 on reader service card

image | feature frame So why would anyone want “drop-in brows” rather than eyebrow extensions, given that they only last several days?

The answer is that drop-ins can be applied if there is no existing hair where the brows need to be filled in, compared to the extension, where it must be an extension of the natural eyebrow hair. And, even though drop-ins last only a few days, clients view it in the same way they see having their makeup professionally applied.

Duration of treatment: 15-30 minutes.

Average price range: $25-$35, but the price can sometimes go as high as $75 to create very thick eyebrows.

How long does it last?

Two to three days.

EYEBROW INTERFACING Combining drop-in eyebrows and extensions is referred to as eyebrow interfacing. Both techniques are combined to create the ultimate correction, an eyebrow design equaling the true eyebrow formation. Eyebrow interfacing can also include eyebrow tinting, eyebrow henna, or straightening, which may include a custom stencil. The process involves fusing the eyebrow extension with adhesive to the natural hair (terminal hair as well as vellus hairs) first to build your formation. Then, blend in with the drop-ins, covering any skin that needs the addition of hairs to complete a perfect eyebrow.

Duration: 1 to 2 hours.

GENERAL TIPS FOR EYEBROW ENHANCEMENT SERVICES Basic design measurement An eyebrow usually measures between 1 7/8 to 2 3/8 inches, or approximately 6 cm. The arch is considered the high point of the eyebrow.

Don’t create an arch that’s too close to the halfway point. You need to consider the shape of the face and the eye for best results, as well as personality.

Positioning Have the client sit up with her legs uncrossed. This gives you the right point of view of the eyebrows. Many mistakes occur because professionals have their clients lay down while they shape their eyebrow, and when they get up one is higher the other. In order to achieve perfect balance, your client needs to be sitting upright.

Eyebrow hygiene • Cleanse brow properly with a brow shampoo • Tweeze or wax excess hairs • Measure the brows • Determine the ideal shape before beginning • Prepare a skin safe adhesive in adhesive ring • Remove any artificial eyebrow hair with tweezers, dipped in skin safe adhesive • For drop-in brows, apply eyebrow hairs to the skin one by one Conclusion

Price: $75-$250; just as with extensions, the first-time appointment is most expensive, and touch-ups following this service are likely to be in the less expensive range.

How long does it last?

2 to 3 weeks.

Essentially, perfecting your clients’ eyebrows can make the eyes appear more youthful.

Correcting your client’s imperfect eyebrows dramatically improves a person’s look, which, like any substantial improvement to a person’s appearance, can build their confidence and self-esteem. n

Ellie Malmin is a leader in eyelash, eyebrow and makeup training. With more than 35 years of experience in the beauty industry, she travels worldwide to provide training for professionals and speak at events. Malmin is co-owner of Anushka Salon & Spa in West Palm Beach, Fla., and DS Competition Make up. She facilitates the innovative Ellie Malmin Lash, Brow, and Makeup Training Academy. Visit lashbrowmakeup-training.com.

Ellie Malmin is presenting the topic “Eyebrow Extensions” at the Image Conference at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach, on March 1-2 and Dallas on April 26-27.

Page 116 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #203 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 117

BEAUTY

COCKTAIL Fusing

FOUNDATION + SKIN CARE

Page 118 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

By Mary

Van

N

ot long ago, makeup was only designed to cover the skin and make it look better for a day or even a few hours.

But today’s makeup consumers expect performance-based products that enhance their beauty without sacrificing the skin’s condition. Hence, many manufacturers now formulate foundations as hybrids, a cross between skin care and cosmetics.

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Foundation is typically the first product applied over the skin care product, and covers the largest area. It’s the single most important color cosmetic a woman applies to her face. Foundation helps to seal in skin care, and serves as a protective barrier between everything the skin will come in contact with during the day.

lneonline.com • Page 119

image | beauty cocktail

It’s important to find a foundation that works with the texture of each client’s skin type, age and lifestyle.

FOUNDATION TYPES Cream Foundation Cream foundations are formulated especially for dry skin. They give the skin a luminous, radiant finish. A cream foundation usually offers more coverage than other types, and tends to be loaded with ingredients to help the skin look and feel moist.

Ideal age range: 50+ Skin types: Dry Ingredients to look for: Glycerine, candelilla wax, cera wax, vitamins A and E, argan oil, chamomile, tea ferment, beta carotene, milk lipids, avocado oil

Liquid Foundation The liquid foundation category encompasses the widest range of options. There is a liquid foundation formulated for every age and skin type. It’s available in a large selection of colors and different levels of coverage. Generally, it looks the most natural on the skin, and can help downplay minor imperfections. Liquid foundations tend to be moisturizing.

The Alphabet Creams BB Creams, short for “beauty balms,” offer the sheer-

est amount of coverage. Promoted as an all-in-one skin care product, its ingredients include moisturizing, sun protective and anti-aging ingredients.

It may be worn as a sunblock, foundation and moisturizer. It may be worn alone or along with minerals or powder, depending on the amount of coverage desired.

CC Creams, short for “color correction,” focus on color correcting and acne issues. They typically don’t feel as heavy on the skin, and provide oil absorbing and sun protection benefits.

DD Creams stand for “double duty,” and are a hybrid

of the BB and CC creams. They offer more complete coverage, combined with the benefits of both.

Age range: All ages Skin types: Normal to oily skin, as well as problematic skin conditions such as acne and rosacea Ingredients to look for: Grapefruit extract, sunflower seed oil, aloe, sweet almond oil, licorice, safflower, silica, willow bark, oat-beta glucan, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, white tea, green tea, pine bark, niacinamide

Page 120 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

with spa business forum

May 30 May 31 June 1 2015

Esthetics

Anti-Aging

Wellness

Education Days

May 30 & 31, June 1 Medesthetics

Exhibit Floor

Open May 31 & June 1 Massage Therapy

The Makeup Source

REgistER Now & sAVE $20

off the Day of show Price on or Before April 25

Spa Business Forum

Co-locating with Orlando/Orange County Convention Center Orlando, Florida

Connect with us

the beauty industry’s most important show delivering the education you need to succeed For more information and to register, visit www.premieredayspa.biz or call 800.335.7469 March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

TM

Beauty Industry Professionals and Students Only lneonline.com • Page 121

image | beauty cocktail

Oil Free Foundation This lightweight foundation helps refine the appearance of pores and skin imperfections. It also provides shine control and gives the skin a matte finish.

Ideal age range: 30 and under Skin types: Oily and combination Ingredients to look for: Titanium dioxide, caprylic/capric triglycerides, silica, lecithin, jojoba esters, vitamin E, sodium hyaluronate

Wet to Dry Foundation A two-in-one foundation combines the coverage of a liquid foundation with the shine control of a powder. This foundation gives medium to full coverage and works well with all skin types, with the exception of oily skin. When applied, it goes on wet and dries as a powder.

Ideal age range: 20 to 40 Skin types: All except oily Ingredients to look for: Green algae extract, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, vitamins A and E, jojoba, esters, sodium hyaluronate, apple extract, chamomile extract, safflower seed oil, zinc oxide

Tinted Moisturizer

POWDER FOUNDATION Loose Mineral Foundation is probably the most common of the powder foundations. Mineral makeup typically contains fewer irritants than other foundation since it contains no chemical dyes, waxes, or preservatives.

Ideal age range: 16 to 25 Skin types: Normal to dry Ingredients to look for: Aloe, shea butter, camellia extract, totarol, ginseng root extract, vitamin A, vitamin E, white tea, green tea, willow bark, sodium hyaluronate

Ideal age range: All ages Skin types: Most skin types, including sensitive Ingredients to look for: Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, silica, mica, boron nitride, pomegranate seed oil, bismuth oxychloride, sodium hyaluronate

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #317 on reader service card

Tinted moisturizer is lightweight and the sheerest of all liquid foundations. It’s perfect for the woman who has flawless skin, since the coverage is minimal. It’s a great product for those who don’t want the heavy feel of both a moisturizer and foundation on the skin.

Page 122 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 123

image | beauty cocktail

Pressed Mineral Foundation Pressed Mineral Foundation offers all the benefits of a loose foundation in a convenient compact. It is a foundation, powder, concealer and sunscreen all in one that provides sheer to full coverage.

Ideal age range: All ages Skin types: Any Ingredients to look for: Titanium dioxide, mica, zinc oxide, boron nitride, aloe, bismuth oxychloride, sweet almond oil, rosemary extract, vitamins A and E, green algae extract, acai berry, squalane Sun protection: Most mineral foundations contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. A larger percentage of these ingredients listed yield a higher SPF, protecting skin from UVA and UVB rays.

Sun protection It’s also important to remind your clients that even though foundations include some level of natural coverage protection, they must also wear SPF protection, whether it exists in

the foundation itself or a separate product, to protect skin from the sun’s damaging rays.

Cosmetics are evolving at a rapid pace, and what was once used to enhance beauty for the day or even just a few hours can now serve as the finishing touch to your clients’ skin care regimens. However, while it’s indisputable that the active ingredients in foundation can help benefit the skin, it’s important that your clients understand that makeup should never replace a good skin care regimen.n

Mary Van, the founder and CEO of Mineralogie, is a nationally renowned makeup artist and mineral makeup pioneer. Van launched the line in 2003 as a division of her parent company, Demaur Cosmetics. She serves as CEO and president of both companies, and is the hands-on creator, inspiration and quality assurance behind each new signature product and custom color.

Enter the

Step-by-Step Drawing!

Visit LNEONLINE.com for an exclusive look into a step-by-step treatment and a chance to win

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #177 on reader service card

This month:

SWiCH Dermal Rejuvenation System Enter to win the $200 Giveaway

Page 124 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

Say you saw LNENouvelles & Spa andEsthétiques circle #162 & Spa March 2015it •in Les

lneonline.com • Page 125

smudge-free Qosmedix now offers Shadow Shields to provide the ultimate multi-tasking beauty tool, says the company. The shields are hands-free, disposable and help eliminate eye shadow fallout.

631.242.3270 qosmedix.com

IN HARMONY SpaRitual introduces its spring collection Rhythm that features six new lacquers that harmonize with the music that surrounds us all, says the company. The hues are: Seasons, a chamomile shimmer; Cycles, a peach crème; Dynamics, a dusty pink crème; Vibration, a pale pink; Pattern, a dark grey glitter; and Groove, a soft blue.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

818.988.2228 sparitual.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news

sweet treat Welcome Cuccio Colour’s take on Pantone’s 2015 color of the year: Boston Cream Pie.

800.762.6245 cuccio.com

SPRING READY Jane Iredale introduces its Spring 2015 collection, Country Weekend. The new collection of color cosmetics features shades of peach for lips and cheeks, metallic espresso, shimmering pearl, copper, gold, and pale green for the eyes. The palette, says the company, was inspired by the alluring landscape of a country getaway.

800.817.5665 janeiredale.com

Page 126 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card

lneonline.com • Page 127

Calendar of Events

WEST • CENTRAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES

West

PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Salt Lake City, UT. 877.PCA.SKIN.

East march 1

march 8

march 22

PCA Skin Advantage

PCA Skin Advantage

PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

by PCA Skin.

Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Costa Mesa, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Central

march 8 PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

march 1 PCA Skin Chemical Peels Science & Application

PCA Skin Chemical Peels

by PCA Skin.

Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Science & Application

by PCA Skin.

Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

march 8

march 15

PCA Skin Advantage

PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

by PCA Skin.

Arlington, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

march 15

march 29

PCA Skin Chemical Peels

PCA Skin Advantage

PCA Skin Advantage

Science & Application

by PCA Skin.

Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.

by PCA Skin.

Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN. march 8-9 Advanced Skin-Tensive Training

by Skin Script Skin Care.

Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.

by PCA Skin.

Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN.

by PCA Skin.

Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 128 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2015

march 22 PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. march 23-28 Beau Institute Permanent Makeup Training Course

by Beau Institute.

Mount Laurel, NJ. 888.763.2328. march 29 PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. PCA Skin Advantage

by PCA Skin.

Parsippany, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

ONLINE EDUCATION

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

ongoing A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

Addressing Adolescent Acne

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Alternate Therapies

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education.

201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/ online-ce-activities An In-Depth Look at Melasma

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Customizing Daily Care Regimens

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses Diminishing Deep Wrinkling

by PCA Skin. Online Course. pcaskin.com/online-courses

March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Miami Beach 2015 March 1-2 Miami Beach, FL Dallas 2015 April 26-27 Arlington, TX Long Beach 2015 September 20-21 Long Beach, CA Philadelphia 2015 October 25-26 Philadelphia, PA

1.800.471.0229

lneonline.com • Page 129

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX Page Number

Reader Service No.

105............. Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 125............. Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 36............... Beau Institute Of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 87............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 71............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 34............... Biomani................................................................... biomani.com................................................................... 276 23............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................. 335 122............. Carefree Skincare / Rubber Ducky.......................... rubberduckysunscreen.com............................................. 317 36, 73 ........ Christine Schrammek Kosmetik Gmbh.................... schrammek.de................................................................. 166 93............... Circadia................................................................... circadia.com.................................................................... 101 132............. Dermapenworld...................................................... dermapenworld.com....................................................... 136 34............... Dermaware.............................................................. dermaware.com.............................................................. 256 123............. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro Usa............................................................ equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 69............... France Laure........................................................... francelaure.com............................................................... 199 95............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 88, 89......... Grandelash - Md..................................................... grandelash-md.com........................................................ 286 70............... Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................... halecosmeceuticals.com.................................................. 133 5................. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 15............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 97............... Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 58, 59......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas....... dallas.skincareshows.com 13............... Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 37............... Le Mieux Cosmetics................................................ lemieuxcosmetics.com..................................................... 294 117............. Lira Clinical.............................................................. liraclinical.com................................................................. 203 21............... Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 101............. Misencil................................................................... misencil.com................................................................... 287 100............. Nature Pure ............................................................ naturepure.com............................................................... 316 33............... PCA Skin................................................................. pcaskin.com.................................................................... 110 109............. PFB Vanish.............................................................. pfbvanish.com................................................................. 229 124............. Postquam Cosmetics USA....................................... postquamusa.com........................................................... 177 121............. Premiere DaySpa Show........................................... premieredayspa.biz 25............... Regenesis................................................................ revitalash......................................................................... 346 127............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 78, 79......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 77............... Revitalash................................................................ revitalash......................................................................... 346 9................. Rhonda Allison Skin Care........................................ rhondaallison.com........................................................... 190 31............... Rocasuba / Rapidlash.............................................. rapidlash.com.................................................................. 224 74............... Saian....................................................................... saian.net.......................................................................... 165 26, 27......... Satin Smooth........................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................. 304 75............... Sesha Skin Therapy................................................. seshaskin.com................................................................. 271 17............... Shira Esthetics......................................................... shiraesthetics.com........................................................... 249 65............... TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 115............. Weight Loss For Spas.............................................. weightlossforspas.com..................................................... 339

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March 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242

lneonline.com • Page 131

Re-write history with Dermapen 3™ creates millions of fractional micro-channels in the skin. The body's natural response is to renew and repair the damage.

With no injections, heat or downtime, Dermapen 3™ is safe on all skin colours to treat an array of skin conditions.

Dermapen 3™’s Advanced Oscillating Vertical Needling (AOVN™) technology allows the pen to harmoniously glide over the skin with precise automation. Discomfort is significantly reduced, whilst the absorption of active treatment products is maximised.

Unlike ablative or thermolytic technologies that destroy the epidermis, Dermapen 3™’s fractional rejuvenation leaves the epidermis intact, reducing negative side effects and downtime.

Unlike laser, IPL or aggressive chemical peels there is no scabbing, grazing, bruising or crusting of the skin.

Many doctors, including Dr. Hasan Fakahany of Egypt, say Dermapen™ has helped them treat the signs of: • • • • • • •

Ageing Fine lines & wrinkles Sun damage Hyperpigmentation Age spots Acral vitiligo Rosacea

Procedures may be performed in as little as 30 minutes with the skin’s repair cascade continuing for up to two years – even after just one treatment.

Visit for more information.

Call: (954) 900-5901 | Email: info@dermapenworld.com.

Or Call Us Toll Free: (844) 4-DERMAPEN Dermapen™, DPDermaceuticals™ Range, AOVN™ and DermapenWorld.com™ are trademarks of Equipmed Australia.

283 Mona Vale Road, Terrey Hills, NSW, 2084, Australia. EQUDPE2011a. 01/15.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #136 on reader service card

• • • • • • •

Dilated capillaries Breakouts Acne Enlarged pores Milia Scars Stretch marks