LNE & Spa - May 2016

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals May 2016

$7.50

B EFOR E

CLE AR S KI N “After using the Éminence products, not only has my annoying adult acne been cleared away and scars faded, but my skin is now so soft and even. I love that I can understand and trust the organic products I’m using, and I finally have products that actually work!”

- Jacqueline, VitaSkinTM Clear Skin Solution

AF TER

42

oil production

73

were satisfied with the anti-wrinkle effect in as little as 5 minutes

% reduction in

%

34

%

reduction in dark spot production

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and BiodynamicŽ skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.

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5

from the Bio-Therapeutic

editor

This month, we are all going to the Dallas congress, which is about aspiring to reach your greatest goals to make a difference in your business and your clients’ lives.

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa increases your knowledge and revives your spark for your career, as it is your window to the industry!

Bio-Brasion®

TRINITY

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WET/DRY MICRODERMABRASION

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smooth glowing skin. bio-therapeutic.com MAY 2016

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Celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau is our conference host in Dallas this year. In her conference welcome letter, she asks you to remember how you felt when you first started in the industry. Perhaps you were uncertain, yet ambitious and determined. And perhaps some of that enthusiasm has started to wear off. It is her hope, along with ours, that May 15 & 16 at the Arlington Convention Center awakens that enthusiasm once more.

Though there is no one secret to success, Rouleau advises: “Never lose that wide-eyed enthusiasm, and if you feel it starting to wear off, find a way to reinvigorate it. What you aspire to is your true North Star; let that always be your guide and you will soar to new heights.”

In the following pages, don’t miss the scoop on creating the ultimate lashes and brows in our guide for a perfect Eye Do. Among the plethora of other resourceful articles included in this issue, we highlight the fascinating key to real anti-aging, staff positions for a new generation and summer makeup trends that go back in time. The May edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa helps you reach these new heights with knowledge and style.

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com

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bt-accent速 LED bt-nano速 & bt-micro速 Bio-Therapeutic is an official supplier of Advanced Skin Care Technology for the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica.

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M AY 201 6

Volume 31

Number 5

CONTENTS ORGANIC & WELLNESS

SKIN The More You Know The Long and Short of Anti-Aging Skin News

14 20 28

Orange You Beautiful 90 Eye-Popping Shine 96 Organic & Wellness News 104

Orange You Beautiful page 90

The Long and Short of Anti-Aging page 20

SPA

Summer Lovin’

Spa of the Month The Evolution of Time Spa News

page 120

30 38 41

IMAGE Let’s Talk Makeup with Lisa LoConte Hills Golden Grace Summer Lovin’ Image News

BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Jana Powers Behold New Employees Business News

42 46 56

EYE ‘DO GUIDE Eye Opening Beauty 58 A Framing Delight 60 Brows on Fleek 66 Raising the Beauty Bar 70 Enduring Peepers 76 Eyes Wide Open 78 Lash & Brow Power Photo Feature 82

Eye Do Guide page 57

108 110 120 128

EXTRAS 6 130

From the Editor Advertiser Index

Cover Photography: Helena Palazzi Model: Clair Westenberg IMG Models Styling: James Aguiar Hair and Makeup: Yesenia Vargas

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.

Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229.

Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664.

LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief E xecutive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial A ssociate Raquel Levy raquel@LNEonline.com A rt Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Alan Araya alan@LNEonline.com Design A dvisor Charlie Jackman Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com E xhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

ST L E B EA D

ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C o n t ri b u to rs Melissa Black

Alisa Garrett

Kris Campbell

Virginie Giguère

Victoria Tabak Mary Van

Caroline Canetti

Raquel Levy

Amanda Clinton Winter

Susan Etter

Ami Mallon

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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The Grande

BROW COLLECTION

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GrandeBROW

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The

More You

Know The

A, B, C, D, Es of Skin Cancer

by Kris Campbell

May is national Melanoma/Skin Cancer Detection and Prevention Month.

The most common of all cancers, approximately 3.5 million cases of basal and squamous cell skin cancer are diagnosed in this country each year.1 With this awareness, it is the perfect month to educate your clients on how to do their own exams at home on a regular basis and encourage them to see a dermatologist yearly for a thorough exam.

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THE MORE YOU KNOW

Basal cell carcinoma almost never spreads beyond where it starts.

We are not medical professionals, so it is important to recommend a dermatologist visit when you notice an area that may look to be cancerous.

Without alarming the client, advise them to go in for an exam if a mole or discoloration in their skin arises at any time. Some skin cancers are fast spreading and there is often no time to waste. Training the client in what to look for will help provide them with some much-needed information so they can keep watch on their skin.

BASAL CELL CARCINOMA (BCC) Basal cell carcinomas have been linked to long-term exposure to the UV (ultraviolet) rays of the sun. This is a great reason to encourage clients to use broad-spectrum sun protection and limit their exposure to the sun.

The areas of the body most likely to develop basal carcinoma are the ones that tend to get more sun, such as the

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head, face, neck and arms. A basal cell usually looks like a sore that does not heal and instead scabs and reopens.

While this is the norm, a few other symptoms can arise: • Pearly white or waxy bump, often with visible blood vessels, on the face, ears or neck. The bump may bleed and develop a crust. On darker skin tones, this type of mole may be brown or black. It may also look like a common scar. • Flat, scaly, brown or flesh-colored patch usually found on the back or chest areas. These areas can also experience an itchy sensation.

Basal cell carcinoma almost never spreads beyond where it starts. It is rare for it to pass the original tumor site and become life threatening. It

should be treated early, as removal of a larger area can lead to disfiguration in the area treated.2

SQUAMOUS CELL CARCINOMA (SCC) Squamous cell c arcinoma is the second most common t ype of skin cancer. 3 It is classified as an uncontrolled growth of abnormal cells developing in the squamous cells, which make up most of the epidermis or top layer of the skin.

This type of cancer is most commonly found in areas typically exposed to the sun, but can also be found in mucous membranes and genital areas. If found in an area that has been overexposed to the sun, it is often very evident as the skin tends to be wrinkled, pigmented and has lost its elasticity.

SKIN

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THE MORE YOU KNOW

THE ABCDE RULE

A B C

Symptoms to be aware of include: • A patch of scaly skin or sore that persistently crusts and bleeds without any indication of eventually healing.

• A raised growth with an indentation in the middle that may occasionally bleed. This growth may increase in size quickly.

• A growth, often mistaken for a common wart, that opens without healing completely.

The rise of this type of cancer among women can be linked to the rise in indoor tanning beds over the last 30 years. Knowing whether or not your client received their tan at the beach, in a tanning machine or from a spray tan apparatus is good to know. SCC is also likely to result from a failure in a person’s immune system. People who have HIV, undergo chemotherapy or fight other autoimmune diseases have a harder time resisting this type of cancer.

Being aware of a client’s history with actinic keratosis (AK) is something else to note, as 40 to 60 percent of squamous cell carcinomas begin as untreated actinic keratosis.4 This condition appears on the skin in the form of scaly, rough and raised bumps. These bumps can appear brown or red in color and range from 1 mm to 1 inch in diameter. They are usually found in areas exposed to the sun such as forearms, the tops of ears, face, neck and scalp. Some experts even consider AKs to be the earliest form of SCC. Different studies have shown that two to 10 percent of untreated actinic keratoses may advance to squamous cell carcinoma.

Asymmetry

Borders

(the outer edges are uneven)

Color

(dark black or multiple colors)

D E

Diameter

(greater than 6 mm)

Evolving (change in size, shape and color)

Dermatologists use the ABCDE rule to classify melanomas. The skin care professional as well the client should know how to spot potential signs and determine if a trip to the dermatologist is warranted.5

A

is for Asymmetry If you draw a line down the middle of a mole and its sides are not exactly the same, this is considered asymmetrical and a possible warning sign of melanoma.

If both sides of a mole are alike, or symmetrical, it is usually considered benign.

B

is for Border Normally, a benign mole has smooth and even borders. An early sign of melanoma is when borders seem to be uneven and notched in appearance.

C

is for Color A benign mole is most often a single shade of brown. If there are variations of color, this can be another sign to send the client to a dermatologist. Color mixtures can include variations of black, red, blue, brown, white and tan.

D

is for Diameter Looking at the diameter of a mole is equally important. Melanomas may be small when first detected, but usually are larger than the tip of the eraser on a pencil (one fourth inch or 6 mm), for example. Melanomas tend to be larger overall than moles that are benign.

E

is for Evolving Most benign moles stay the same over time. However, if there are changes in the ABCDs or if moles become sore-like and do not seem to heal, a trip to the dermatologist is needed right away.

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SKIN

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THE MORE YOU KNOW

Other notable warning signs include: • A new bump or nodule • Color of mole spreads into the skin around it • Redness or swelling beyond the mole • Pain, itchiness or tenderness • Bleeding or oozing • Scaly appearance When looking at a client’s skin, remember not to scare them when you notice an area that may look cancerous. We are not medical profession-

als and cannot determine or diagnose these medical conditions. We also do not want to perform treatments that may disrupt the area in question and in turn cause harm or infection. If you notice something of concern, make the client aware of what you see and where you see it in case they did not notice a particular mole in an area they do not see every day. Mention that they may want to have that particular area checked by a dermatologist to properly diagnose the issue.

In our profession, continuing education is key. Understanding

why skin cancer may arise guides us during the intake process as well as in choosing any potential treatments. It is important to not do more harm to a person’s skin by making them more photosensitive if they are a noted sunbather or have a long history of overexposure to sun or tanning beds.

Taking pictures at each appointment also helps clients be aware of changes in their skin, whether in noting the benefits of your great facials or in spotting potentially dangerous signs of skin cancer.  Kris Campbell is the founder

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References: 1. cancer.org/cancer/cancercauses/sunanduvexposure/skin-cancer-facts 2. mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/basal-cell-carcinoma/basics/definition/ CON-20028996 3. skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/squamous-cell-carcinoma/ scc-causes-and-risk-factors 4. mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/actinic-keratosis/basics/symptoms/ con-20030382 5. skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/melanoma/ melanoma-warning-signs-and-images/do-you-know-your-abcdes

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and managing director of Hale & Hush, a skin care line dedicated to sensitive and health challenged skin. She writes for trade publications and speaks at trade events on a variety of subjects. Campbell has worked for an FDA cosmeceutical lab, helped clients create their own brands and currently formulates for Hale & Hush.

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rate of aging

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the

LONG and

SHORT of

ANTI-AGING how the secret lies at the ends of your DNA

by Raquel Levy

T

he body’s internal clock of aging constantly turns, causing wrinkles, age spots, loss of elasticity and an overall decline in health. For centuries, the clock has ticked on as explorers, scientists and formulators have searched for fountains of youth and magical elixirs to reverse the clock. But there has been no cure for the curse of aging on the horizon, until now.

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THE LONG & SHORT OF ANTI-AGING

CHROMOSOME CELL

the problem: Why We Age TELOMERE

After years of research and numerous scientific breakthroughs, Bill Andrews, Ph.D., molecular biologist and founder of Sierra Sciences, says he has found a way to not just reduce the appearance of aging, but reduce and reverse the rate of aging and declining health.

His findings have been used to create skin creams, serums and supplements that have shown dramatic results in the field of anti-aging. To understand this breakthrough, it’s important to understand the cause of aging, how it can be reversed and what we can do about it.

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It was discovered in the 1970s that biological aging is caused by the shortening of caps at the end of our DNA strands, called telomeres. Telomeres, meaning “end part” in Greek, are found in each cell of the body, numbering them at more than 100 trillion. “The analogy that I like to use is like a long shoelace,” says Andrews. “At the very tips of the shoelaces are the caps which protect the shoelaces. Telomeres are the equivalent of these caps, protecting the DNA.” Scientists noticed that telomeres get shorter every time a cell divides,

which happens often in humans. While the DNA replicates, telomeres cannot regrow. This inability to duplicate telomeres when going through DNA replication is what causes human cells to age. “You’re first conceived as a single cell embryo, and your telomeres are 15,000 bases then,” Andrews explains. “You go through a lot of cell division to make a baby and by the time you’re born your telomeres have already shortened to about 10,000 bases. The problem begins later, because you still have a lot of cell division to do, and as you grow up your telomeres get shorter and shorter. When your telomeres get down to 5,000 bases, that’s equivalent to the shoelaces just falling apart.”

Scientists could now measure a person’s telomeres and determine how old they were, making telomeres the only clock of aging ever discovered in the human body. With this understanding, Andrews and his team of scientists and researchers set out to stop the clock and combat telomere shortening.

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THE LONG & SHORT OF ANTI-AGING

the solution: Telomerase The first breakthrough came with t he dis cover y of telo mer as e in the mid 1990 s, an enz yme that prevents telomere shortening in our reproductive cells. “The reproductive cell line never shows any sign of aging, and it couldn’t because if it did our children would be born as old if not older than we are,” Andrews explains.

“It’s the only non-aging cell line found in humans.”

The first experiment with telomerase in a petri dish produced age reversal. By causing normal cells to produce telomerase, the cells got younger. For this discovery, Andrews was awarded second place as "National Inventor of the Year" in 1997 and his colleagues went on to win the 2009 Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine for their work on how telomerase impacts telomere length.

Then, in a first of its kind study, a 2010 Har vard Medic al School experiment showed a dramatic reversal of aging in mice1. After prematurely aging the mice, scientists caused their genes to produce telomerase and found they not only looked younger, but had aged backwards. “The mice became young again, they could reproduce, their memory got better,” Andrews shares. “It’s the only thing on the planet ever that has truly reversed aging.”

Andrews’ work with telomerase was also beneficial to cancer research. “I put the antisense of telomerase into cancer cells and found that I could kill cancer cells by making them die of old age, with no effect on normal cells,” he shares. After winning numerous awards for his cancer research, Andrews started Sierra Sciences to focus his effor ts on aging, reflected in the organization’s motto of “Cure Aging or Die Trying.” However, Andrews makes clear his organization is not seeking to make humans immortal

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or immune to accidents and disease.

“We’re reversing declining health in the aging process,” he clarifies.

the tug of war: Applying Telomerase “Telomere shortening and lengthening is like a constant tug of war,” Andrews explains. “In every cell in your body except your reproductive system, it’s a one sided tug of war. You’ve got people pulling to shorten your telomere and that’s all that’s happening. When you add something to the cell that causes telomerase to be produced, it’s the same as adding people to the other side of the tug of war.”

Andrews and his team of scientists worked silently and diligently for years,

testing hundreds of thousands of compounds for their ability to activate telomerase. They discovered more than 900 chemicals and 30 natural products to induce the production of telomerase in human cells, some stronger than others. Andrews is now a named inventor on 35 issued telomerase patents, some of which he has licensed to companies that created products to fight telomere shortening.

A s of today, there are three licensed products on the market that have been shown to reduce the rate of telomere shortening. The compound c0314818 was licensed to a company in New Zealand to create a skin serum.

Clinical trials revealed that after 30 days, the serum decreased wrinkles, reduced redness, pigmentation and

SKIN

improved skin firmness and elasticity.

The serum has recently been licensed to sell throughout the world, just launched in the U.S. this spring. In the form of nutritional supplements, another formulation combines bioactives, complex botanicals and vitamins to support telomere health.

In a clinical study, individuals using this formulation showed a significant elevation of catalase, an enzyme that prevents oxidative stress, which causes telomere shortening. Available in capsules and a skin cream, one of the first licensed compounds can help maintain and rebuild telomeres. The specially formulated skin cream was clinically shown to increase collagen levels, improve skin firmness, reduce inflammation, fine lines and wrinkles.

Though current products both topical and oral do not yet add enough to the lengthening side of the tug of war to cause complete age reversal, slowing the shortening down is enough to produce results.

the future: Winning the Tug of War Andrews’ focus for the future is on developing stronger compounds and methods, and he believes they are close. Using the royalties from their licensed patents, he and his team continue researching and developing formulations as more and more people take notice of his work.

“When I first started telling people about my research, my first audience was a room of four people,” he shares.

“Now I speak to audiences of 12,000.

A lot of people are suddenly realizing the cure for aging has already been discovered, it just needs a little more research to get it perfected enough to start providing to humans.”  Raquel Levy is the editorial associate at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communications with an emphasis in writing and editing. Levy has been a lifestyle and feature writer for more than five

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THE LONG & SHORT OF ANTI-AGING

KEEPING TELOMERES LONG In the tug of war against aging, avoiding accelerated telomere shortening is perhaps most important. Numerous scientific studies have been conducted showing that certain lifestyle choices can prematurely shorten telomeres, while others can assist in lengthening.

SHORTENERS V. LENGTHENERS “Everything you’ve ever heard about a healthy lifestyle actually affects telomeres,” Andrews advises. “Trans and saturated fats induce inflammation and they also induce accelerated telomere shortening. Gluten and dairy do the same thing and sugar is one of the worst ones.” Avoiding these can prevent early aging, along with: REDUCING STRESS: Several studies have been completed on telomere length and stress, showing stress is associated with decreased telomerase activity2. Pessimists have been shown to have shorter telomeres than optimists3, adults that were abused as children have shorter telomeres than those who weren’t4, even depression can cause accelerated telomere shortening5.

AVOIDING SMOKING AND OBESITY: In both women who smoked and obese women, telomere length decreased steadily. Both are states of heightened oxidative stress, which increases the rate of telomere erosion and inflammation6.

MEDITATION AND YOGA: Those who participate in grounding exercises like meditation and yoga have significantly longer telomeres than those who don’t7.

EXERCISE: Published in several journal articles, endurance exercise has proven to decrease the rate of accelerated telomere shortening.

Participants of 10K runs have longer telomeres than those who do not run, marathon runners have longer telomeres than 10K runners and ultramarathon runners have longer telomeres than marathon runners8.

INCREASING ANTIOXIDANTS, OMEGA-3 AND VITAMIN D: These have all been shown to decrease the rate of accelerated telomere shortening, reducing free radicals and inflammation, both major causes of telomere shortening9.

years. Contact her at raquel@lneonline.com.

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SOURCES J a s k e l i o f f M , e t a l . Te l o m e r a s e

B., Marsella, S. A., & Carpenter, L. L. (2010).

T., Folkman, S., & Blackburn, E. (2009). Can

reactivation reverses tissue degeneration

Childhood Maltreatment and Telomere

Meditation Slow Rate of Cellular Aging?

in aged telomerase-deficient mice. Nature.

Shortening: Preliminary Support for an Effect

Cognitive Stress, Mindfulness, and Telomeres.

2011;469:102-107.

of Early Stress on Cellular Aging. Biological

Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences,

2. Epel, E. S., Blackburn, E. H., Lin, J., Dhabhar,

Psychiatry, 67(6), 531-534.

1172(1), 34-53.

F. S., Adler, N. E., Morrow, J. D., & Cawthon, R.

5. Simon, N. M., Smoller, J. W., Mcnamara,

8. Denham, J., Nelson, C. P., O’Brien, B.

M. (2004). Accelerated telomere shortening

K. L., Maser, R. S., Zalta, A. K., Pollack, M. H.,

J., Nanker vis, S. A., Denniff, M., Har vey,

in response to life stress. Proceedings of

Wong, K. (2006). Telomere Shortening and

J. T., . . . Charchar, F. J. (2013). Longer

the National Academy of Sciences, 101(49),

Mood Disorders: Preliminary Support for a

Leukocyte Telomeres Are Associated with

17312-17315.

Chronic Stress Model of Accelerated Aging.

Ultra-Endurance Exercise Independent of

3. O’Donovan, A., Lin, J., Dhabhar, F.,

Biological Psychiatry, 60(5), 432-435.

Cardiovascular Risk Factors. PLoS ONE, 8(7).

Wolkowitz, O., Tillie, J., Blackburn, E., & Epel,

6. Valdes, A., Andrew, T., Gardner, J., Kimura,

9. Kiecolt-Glaser, J. K., Epel, E. S., Belury,

E. (2009). Pessimism correlates with leukocyte

M., Oelsner, E., Cherkas, L., . . . Spector, T.

M. A., Andridge, R., Lin, J., Glaser, R., . . .

telomere shortness and elevated interleukin-6

(2005). Obesity, cigarette smoking, and

Blackburn, E. (2013). Omega-3 fatty acids,

in post-menopausal women. Brain, Behavior,

telomere length in women. The Lancet,

oxidative stress, and leukocyte telomere

and Immunity, 23(4), 446-449.

366(9486), 662-664.

length: A randomized controlled trial. Brain,

4. Tyrka, A. R., Price, L. H., Kao, H., Porton,

7. Epel, E., Daubenmier, J., Moskowitz, J.

Behavior, and Immunity, 28, 16-24.

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1.

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SkinNews

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The ChromoSkin Complex acts on the three visible skin chromophores, the main light-absorbing components of the skin.

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714.838.1956 biophotas.com

It contributes to altering the dispersion of light in the skin, improving its luminosity, causing dark spots and redness to seemingly disappear.

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Ideally suited to the busy esthetician, day spa or medical spa, it is hands-free, affordable and results-driven.

Double Dose of Good The approved Microbead-Free Waters Act of 2015 is a big step for greening beauty routines and ultimately protecting our waters and sea life! The Daily ExfoliPowder from Amarte uses refined, plant seed-based exfoliants to remove dry, dull skin and gently cleanse, so it’s delicate enough for daily use and in line with the greening action underway.

The unique Wonder Wash® in the formula features three potent antioxidants to protect skin from external irritants and five brightening ingredients that deliver a noticeably brighter, supple and more radiant complexion, plus a unique pearl powder for a delicate sheen.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #186 on reader service card

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milk + honey, Houston, Texas.

In ancient lore, a land overflowing with milk and honey was said to store an abundance of delights. With more than 100 awards, including “Best Spa” three years in a row, unique employee benefits that have earned them the “Best Place to Work” title and a business model meant to support the local community, milk + honey spa exemplifies a sanctuary of delights.

The spa, with four other locations throughout Texas, recently opened their newest space in Houston, their biggest spa/salon at 8,250 square feet. This space allows for “spa partisans” to receive award-winning treatments in serene treatment rooms, enjoying organic ingredients and a philosophy of healing, wellness and relaxation.

by Amanda Clinton Winter

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recline + unwind The newest milk + honey location, their largest space yet, accommodates 15 treatment rooms. Of these rooms, six are dedicated to esthetics, eight for massage and one wet room. “In addition, we have eight hair stations in our salon and six manicure and pedicure stations in our nail lounge,” adds manager Karena Zolner. “We offer couples massages, private steam showers in both our fully-appointed men's and women's locker rooms and our guest lounge is perfect for relaxing before and after services.”

treat + complete

SPA of the MONTH

Known for a full sensory approach to wellness, milk + honey treatments aim to stimulate the senses. All massages include therapeutic hot or cold packs, warm neck pillows, steamy hot towels and the client’s choice of aromatherapy or body butter. Many of milk + honey’s massage therapists hold advanced certifications, making the Specialty Massage (60 minutes, $120) perfect for honing into the client’s individual need. “Specialty massage is one of our most coveted services,” shares Zolner. “It allows our therapists to use an assortment of modalities, from Reiki and reflexology to lymphatic, to give the body the customized attention and relief that's needed.”

To invigorate and detox, the signature Spa Partisan (100 minutes, $19) body treatment begins with a full body brushing, followed by a skin-polishing blend of brown sugar, coffee and crushed almond. Ultimate relaxation is then achieved through a steam treatment and 60-minute Signature Massage. With ultrasonic technology to remove oil, dirt and other areas of congestion, the Lux Facial (75 minutes, $155; 90 minutes, $180) encourages collagen and elastin production, allows serums to penetrate

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deeply into the skin and evens tone, color and texture for a smooth complexion. For extra attention from front to back, the Ultimate Facial (120 minutes, $215) combines a 90-minute Lux Facial with a Back Treatment.

sweet + rewarding Patrons of milk + honey are more than clients, they’re VIPs: Very Important Partisans. Their reward program of the same name has been hailed as the best spa reward program in Austin, allowing clients to earn points for each service and product purchased. Every dollar spent at milk + honey on spa or salon services and retail turns into 100 points and clients also receive 10 points for every dollar spent on gift certificates. When a partisan reaches 50,000 points, they receive $40 in milk + honey credit to spend however they choose. Partisans also earn 10,000 points by referring a friend to the spa and even 100,000 points when they refer an employee for one of their open positions.

The spa also offers a membership for those who enjoy treating themselves more frequently. “With our membership, guests opt into an annual commitment to enjoy a treatment once or multiple times of month — it is customized to their choice,” explains Zolner. “Those services are discounted by 15 percent when they pre-pay for the entire year. Treatment series are smaller bundles and are offered at a 10 percent discount. Guests who visit milk + honey often love being able to take advantage of a lower rate for taking care of themselves regularly.”

impress + captivate Attracting and maintaining clients starts organically at milk + honey. “Our staff is responsible for making that first great impression, which attributes to the retention of our current guests and in gaining the trust of their friends and

Our staff is responsible for making that ffirst great impression, which attributes to the retention of our current guests and in gaining the trust of their friends and family. family,” says Zolner. With great services and a caring staff in place, the in-house marketing team focuses on growth and branding.

Marketing efforts touch on key points like email, social media, web, word-of-mouth, direct mail and brand reputation. However, they are careful not to abuse clients’ email addresses, limiting email communication. “So often, in our own lives, we delete emails or get annoyed with a brand or person who we perceive to be ‘spamming us,’” Zolner adds. “We try to err on the side of once or twice-a-month emails —

outside of appointment confirmations, etc. — that contain only the most important updates and content we feel are pertinent to our clientele.” Social media allows them to connect with clients and be a little less formal while maintaining their “voice” as a brand.

train + teach To prepare for formal quarterly reviews, staff at milk + honey can count on an environment of education and support that benefits both employees and clients. “Our goal is to be honest,

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supportive and constructive,” Zolner shares. “And if a team member requires more attention than on a quarterly basis to really flourish, we're game.”

In addition to multiple trainings per quarter and ongoing instruction from their product partners, an educational fund is allotted for each technician.

He or she can choose the classes they feel will most benefit their continuing education and skill set. Connecting with staff is key, so management conducts two “huddles” a day, at the start of each shift to establish connection and awareness. “It lets us set the tone, set intentions and set everyone up for a

great shift ahead,” Zolner adds.

Monthly goals, such as retail and client retention, are treated like benchmarks that are broken down to daily and hourly goals for each team member. These specific benchmarks keep the goals on track and extra incentives keep the staff inspired to achieve them. Voted three times as one of the “Best Places to Work,” milk + honey is unique in their job compensation and benefits. Employees enjoy health benefits, affordable dental and vision, performance bonuses, paid vacation, a matching 401(k) plan, continuing education reimbursement,

ongoing training opportunities and discounts on treatments and products.

service + connection For both team members and clients, it is the spirit of milk + honey’s inclusive philosophy that keeps them coming back. “The entire milk + honey team is extraordinary,” Zolner shares. “Our massage therapists, estheticians, nail therapists, and concierge not only provide great service, but are incredibly knowledgeable and are some of the greatest people to be around. Every client who enters our spa feels that.”

WHO’S BEHIND

the scenes

the rundown milk + honey spa 2800 Kirby Dr. Houston, Texas 77098 milkandhoneyspa.com Launch: April 2016 Spa Director: Karena Zolner

Founder and owner Alissa Bayer earned her MBA at the University of Texas at Austin, launching milk + honey just two years after graduation. Named one of Ernst & Young's 2015 Entrepreneurial Winning Women, Bayer has led the award-winning spa, salon and retail line along with her husband, Shon, marketing and technology executive and CEO of milk + honey.

Bayer is also the mother to three young children, a three-year-old and five-year-old twins. In a rare moment of free time, she enjoys running, reading, cooking and a good massage.

Owner: Alissa Bayer Size: 8,250 square feet.

Facility: Fifteen treatment rooms, including a wet room, eight hair stations, six manicure and pedicure stations. Men's and women's locker rooms with private steam showers and a guest lounge.

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She

Staff: 40 team members.

Product Lines: CosMedix, Kevin.Murphy, HydraFacial MD®, milk + honey.

Signature Treatments: Signature Massage (60 minutes, $110) and Signature Facial (60 minutes, $110). 

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has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, MA and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@lneonline.com.

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The

Evolution of Express & Extended Treatments by

Popular Demand

by Caroline Canetti

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t r aditio nal 50 or 6 0 - minu te treatment just isn't fitting the needs of today's client anymore. Instead, they are requesting polar opposites — either express services of 30 minutes or less or extended single treatments of 90 to 120 minutes. The trend in express treatments speaks to the need to have maintenance done while living in our fast-paced, 24/7 connected culture. The trend toward longer treatments, on the other end, is driven by the need for those overworked people to fully relax — and the length of time it takes to relax them — when they have a block to dedicate to overall wellness.

For The Spa at Sandpearl in Clear water Beach, Fla., the move toward both express and long is seasonal. “When we are in convention season, people come in for the quick treatments. In spring, we have the European market come in, and they want the longer two-hour traditional or deep tissue massages and are adding on services to their facials to make them longer,” says Maureen Vipperman, corporate director of spa operations for OPL hotels, which owns Sandpearl Resort. “It’s important to know your market well and be on up your clients’ changing needs.”

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EXPRESS SERVICES Express treatments speak not only to the busy client always on the go, but also to the client who wants a mini break from their day. "Some clients don't want the relaxation or chit-chat and just need to come in for the immediate benefit of the treatment, such as a cleansing facial, or for relief of some tension in a short massage that simply targets their troubled spot," says Vipperman.

ONE the Spa at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica, Calif., gets a lot of express clients who are simply seeking a chance to quickly recharge. "We offer the opportunity to take a spontaneous break in their day to de-stress and recalibrate before an impor tant meeting or starting a big project,” says spa director Rachel Stacy. “You don't necessarily have to plan in advance for an express treatment like you have to do for a traditional 60 or 90-minute service.

You can use the impromptu break to gather your thoughts, focus your energy and clear your mind."

The Express Pure O2 Infusion treatment (30 minutes, $150) is one of ONE the Spa's most popular express treatments. It features a combination of customized organic certified extracts, firming peptides and vitamins A, C and E, which are infused into the skin with medical-grade oxygen.

SenSpa in San Francisco added a 30-minute Express Massage ($85) to their menu after getting client feedback

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from one of their surveys. "We do surveys every few years and this is what they asked for,” says outreach manager Terri Eaton. “We have a lot of professionals and commuting is challenging in the city.

Since we close at 9 p.m., we are regularly booked by commuters between 6-8 p.m. who want to wait out the traffic before heading home."

EXTENDED SERVICES While long packages and "spa days" that feature several different treatments have long been popular, there is a rise in the extended version of single treatments as more spas are adding 90 and 120-minute versions of their existing massage and body treatments.

"At the end of a 50 or 60-minute massage, you might be just starting to decompress,” says Vipperman. “When your body starts to twitch like when you're ready to go to sleep that's when it's just getting good. So to add on another half hour or hour to the massage will allow the client to really soak in the benefits of the service."

One of Sandpearl's most popular extended treatments is The Quench (120 minutes, $230). This body treatment includes dry brushing, a body scrub and body butter massaged in with warm stones for hydration, firming and relaxation. "It prevents the hyaluronic

acid breakdown to keep the moisture in the body," says Vipperman.

Milk + honey spa, which has five locations in Texas, first introduced a twohour massage for Valentine's Day in 2008, and it was so popular that it's not only become a staple of the menu, but they've extended other services as well. The spa previously offered 60 and 90-minute services, but has added 75, 105, and 120 minute options with much success.

"Any service provider will tell you that an hour massage is not enough time to address most people's wish list for their massage,” says general manager Summer Smith. “It doesn't give enough time to really focus on the areas that a client is complaining about, pain or soreness or where their tension lays. Two hours allows for more time to focus on those areas." Smith adds that the twohour massage is also a popular gift item.

Two-hour services allow for time on other areas that are usually quickly brushed over. The spa's Ultimate Massage (120 minutes, $205) is one of milk + honey's most popular treatments for those little extras. "In addition to the full body massage, it includes 15 minutes of foot work in both prone and supine positions,” Smith adds. “As well as 15 minutes on the scalp and neck, all the yummy inclusions, and more time on the hands too." 

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Applied daily with a light massage, this concentrate helps to reshape thighs, hips, tummy and arms.

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RAPID HYDRATION The BODY LOTION NDV from Nelly De Vuyst is ideal for clients prone to stretch marks, dry skin, psoriasis and eczema on the body. Marine elastin and marine collagen extracts within a velvety lotion envelops the body with a smooth and silky veil of hydration.

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ESSENTIAL PROTECTION The Anti-Pollution Hydrating Active Lotion from Decléor is a moisturizing essence that provides both immediate and long-term hydration, leaving skin’s surface smoother. It combines key ingredients like moringa extract and natural hyaluronic acid for skin that is perfectly hydrated and protected.

Fresh and fluid like water, but hydrating like a lotion, it’s quickly absorbed, deeply penetrating the skin and leaving it comfortable and soothed with zero greasy after-feel.

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CELLULITE HAS MET ITS MATCH

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LNE & SPA with Jana

Powers

Spa Director at Spa at Éilan, San Antonio, Texas

How can you define the concept of your spa? — An exclusive escape into tranquility.

How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there? — Ten treatment rooms, a nail salon, two steam rooms and two rasul steam rooms, resortstyle pool, fitness center with personal training and group classes, indoor lap pool, spa dining menu, virtual golf and a blow out bar in construction.

How many employees do you have and what are their specialties? — Twelve massage therapists, three estheticians, three nail technicians, two personal trainers, two yoga instructors, two Zumba instructors, one spa group coordinator, three spa concierges, two spa attendants, two spa supervisors, one spa director, two public space attendants and six pool attendants.

What daily challenges do you encounter in your position? — Spreading myself between my administrative duties and supporting my team as well and meeting with our guests. Every single morning I make a list of everything I need to 42

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do and break it up by periods of times.

Administrative work is always first, then I work with the front desk and greet clients at the same time, walk around, say hi to my staff and see what’s happening in the spa. Mapping out my day gives me a structure and I don’t spend too much time on one thing.

What would you say are your biggest challenges? — Keeping myself open to my team but also knowing and respecting my boundaries and limitations.

My door is always open, but I am honest with my staff about when I can and cannot speak with them. They understand when I am working on something and I don’t let 24 hours pass before addressing their concern. On days off, I am open to texts and emails and respond to pressing matters. Sometimes I’m answering an email at midnight, but that’s the nature of the position. You’ve got to be available to your team and show them you care.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? — Walking after work and spending time with the people I love. And a good bubble bath!

Cooking is also like meditation for me.

What takes most of your time every day? — Marketing and inventory control.

Both of these have to be addressed every single day. Who are we trying to reach, how do we market this particular event, which retails items are moving and which need to be restocked, etc. You need to have conversations with every individual involved and map out a plan.

What is your hiring process?

— We invite chosen candidates to meet the spa supervisors and concierges to be sure they fit in with our team environment and give them a comfortable setting to ask questions of their would-be peers. Then I interview them and have them perform a test service on one of our service providers. Our hotel general manager also meets with final candidates and we do a reference and background check before onboarding any new team members.

How do you evaluate employees?

— Our company works on a yearly evaluation, but I meet with my team daily and practice open door communication and continual training. When evaluation comes around there are no surprises and we set goals for the next year together.

What makes an employee stand out as a star? —Teamwork and passion for exceptional service. I look for team members who are open to new ideas, communication, collaboration and a structured workplace. When working in an environment with a lot of departments, such as in a hotel spa, you have to work as one big unit. Star employees are therapists who are able to rely and count on one another, who are open to folding laundry if needed or jumping in when someone is sick.

How do you train the staff? — After company orientation, all spa team members train as a concierge for the first few days so they understand the flow of the spa and the booking process. Then we move the service providers on to train with another service provider to learn our services and signature techniques. Once trained we set off the new team member with test guests for practice and once we are all comfortable they begin providing services.

What are your retail goals? — I allow my team to make the best decision based on their comfort level with guests. We allow the guest to steer any retail conversations. The goal is always first to provide exceptional service and suggest ongoing care to enhance their experience. We do not press retail sales, rather provide “spacriptions” and offer to find products and answer questions if there is interest on the guest’s part. The amount of the goal changes depending on what the spa is trying to promote and that can be services or retail items.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals? — We give our team a commission on all retail sales as well as internal incentives such as products of their choice or lunch in the restaurant once a goal is met.

Where is your retail located and what is its surface area compared to the rest of the spa and why? — Our retail area is in the spa lobby where our guests check in and out. It is placed here as the focal point for guests at the arrival and departure for both the spa and hotel. We struggle with retail space because our furniture is built-in and only a small area can be dedicated to retail. If you get

the chance to build or design a spa area, avoid built-in furniture so you can add and move things around as needed.

What can you tell us about your marketing techniques? — We focus on quarterly events in the spa to promote new services and products as we are bringing in guests that may not have otherwise come to our property. These events change focus each quarter to target different type of guests. We do this by partnering with local businesses such as medical spas to provide medical spa services, trunk shows with local artisans and clothiers as well as charities. We promote using mainly social media and newspaper ads, often marketing across partnerships and internally in our hotel.

How do you keep clients loyal?

— Outside of our amazing facility, we have a “refer a friend” program and offer small discounts as a “thank you.” We celebrate events with our guests such as birthdays and anniversaries by treating them to a personalized cake or a glass of champagne. We also work hard at keeping our services fresh and unique. However, our most successful tool in loyalty is providing caring, genuine service from our team members. Our guests come back because of the connection to our team.

What are the most important lessons you have learned from failures or challenges? — You have to expect change from yourself before you can expect change from your team members.

As managers or spa directors, we know what we want and how to get to our end goal, but it won’t always go our way. The end result should always be what you’re expecting, but it’s okay to change how you get there. Your team members have to work with the environment you create and the decisions you make.

What are the most popular treatments? — Our signature massage, which incorporates a little of “everything” including essential oils and hot stones as well as customizable pressure and a warm foot treatment at the end. Our signature facial is also popular as each one is tailored to meet a guest’s individual needs.

What advice could you give to someone who would like to manage a spa? — Be open-minded and keep your door open to communication.

Figure out what each individual brings to the table and how to nurture that. They’re not going to be satisfied if you limit their potential, they need to be respected and upheld.

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Making Waves

The ocean’s most powerful antioxidant is making a splash in skin care… as it reveals a nutrient-rich secret from the waters of Spain Fred Fouassier’s journey began in a beautiful marine preserve in the South of Spain known as Veta la Palma. Fouassier, CEO and co-founder of RéjuvaSea, along with a team of scientists, sought to understand why thousands of birds traveled more than 150 miles every day to feed in these waters.

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PROMOTION

This allows marine-based ingredients to restore the skin

TreaSure Discovery The sea’s most powerful antioxidant They discovered the waters contained an impressive marine phytoplankton and the secret to powerful antioxidant skin care with extraordinary anti-aging results.

After years of research on the world’s most potent marine phytoplankton, now known as RéjuvaPlankton®, RéjuvaSea Skincare was born.

Skin Care Partner Changing the skin care experience

Scientific Breakthrough Marine-based nutrient RéjuvaPlankton®

RéjuvaSea offers a full back bar and retail line of innovative, nutrient-packed products that can be added to any facial treatment to restore the skin’s healthy glow, fight signs of aging and increase oxygenation.

With a very low opening order, captivating display materials and gifts with purchase, RéjuvaSea has locked all the tools needed for profit.

Because they understand the risk of implementing a new line, RéjuvaSea offers financing opportunities. “From the beginning, we knew we didn’t want to be just another skin care line,” Fouassier shares. “We wanted to go above and beyond in setting our customers up to be successful.”

RéjuvaSea’s breakthrough formula combines the powerful RéjuvaPlankton®, sea-based antioxidants, nutrient-rich botanicals and potent, bioavailable vitamins and minerals to target specific skin concerns, promote skin health and prevent signs of premature aging.

Clinical studies found that RéjuvaPlankton® has 100 times more antioxidant capacity than melons, 18 times more than grapes and nine times more than goji berries.

Skin Superfood Ingredients to balance and feed the skin Packed with RéjuvaPlankton®, RéjuvaSea’s skin care formula stimulates collagen production and boosts cellular energy to help women restore their vitality and regain youthful radiance.

The unique nutrient-rich skin care line addresses the causes of aging skin to restore skin’s natural balanced hydration, firmness, even skin tone and restore a youthful glow.

“The value of marine skin care is in absorption, integrating ingredients the body will easily accept,” explains Fouassier. In terms of minerals and trace elements, the chemical compositions of the human body and the ocean are extremely similar. “This allows marine-based ingredients to restore the skin,” he adds.

Customized Training Tailored to each need Sustainable Practices Preserving the natural environment Their commitment to the preservation of Veta la Palma, one of the world’s last unspoiled sanctuaries, led to the design of sustainable harvesting and extraction methods that protect the natural resources of this special ecosystem.

“Through an advanced extraction process, we harvest marine phytoplankton in order to not deplete the natural reservoir of this incredible ingredient,” says Fouassier. “Our sanctuary remains unspoiled and continues to inspire us with its natural beauty.”

Understanding the challenges of the skin care and spa industry, RéjuvaSea offers nationwide one-on-one training catered to the specific needs of each esthetician and spa owner.

They provide the tools, support and training needed for their clients to successfully incorporate the line and sell products. “We go to great lengths to be a long-lasting partner,” says Fouassier. “For any follow up necessary, experts are then only a phone call away.”

RéjuvaSea Skincare

1.800.763.0904 • rejuvasea.com

RéjuvaSea harvesting facility and Skincare Labs, Cadiz, Spain.

Veta la Palma, Spain.

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Employees innovative staffing for today’s positions

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The modern spa owner is getting just as creative with their staffing methods as they are with their treatment menus.

In an effort to super-serve their clients' specific needs, bring in quality applicants for open positions and keep their current valued

employees thriving, savvy spas are adding every kind of position from Ambassador of Happiness to Director of Charity to their HR plans. Here's a look at how five spas are getting creative with their employee roster...

by Caroline Canetti

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BEHOLD NEW EMPLOYEES

AMBASSADOR of HAPPINESS In order to help a valued employee grow within the company, milk + honey spa, which has five locations in Texas, created the position of Ambassador of Happiness a year ago.

“We have an employee, Shannon, who we adore and she got bored in her position as Spa Concierge and there wasn’t really another position that suited her,” explains general manager Summer Smith. “She said the one thing she really loved about her current job was going off site and telling the world about milk + honey. So, we created this position for her. It elevated her ownership and her pride in her position.

Sometimes creating new positions with uplifting titles like this one is more for staff morale and employee retention than anything else.”

The Ambassador of Happiness raises brand awareness and introduces milk + honey to future clients and employees. She represents the spa at offsite events, such as at-home spa bridal parties and open houses at technical schools, and does a lot of networking and grassroots marketing.

HOSTS, CONCIERGES and ATTENDANTS Another example of switching up the title of an existing job for the purpose of employee satisfaction is what milk + honey did with their housekeeping, receptionist and spa attendant positions.

The housekeepers were given the elevated title of Spa Attendants, and the previously named Spa Attendants were renamed Spa Hosts. The Spa Concierge is a higher title, with more responsibilities, for what is essentially the receptionist position at most spas.

“This helps people feel better about their jobs and helps us keep good people around longer so there is less turn-

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over, which can be costly to a spa,” says Smith. “We’ve found by doing this that we also get better people applying for these jobs when we post them online.”

The change-up at milk + honey started when they decided to rename the housekeepers Spa Attendants. “We wanted to increase the ownership and pride in that particular position, and it’s worked,” explains Smith. “The word ‘housekeeper’ has a certain connotation to it and we wanted to expand the thought of the position to encompass the entire spa.”

The Spa Host (the spa rotates four people in this position) welcomes clients to the spa, gives them a personal tour and circulates between the front of the house and the back of the house, communicating with the support staff, thera-

pists and managers to ensure that the communication is strong and they are all able to deliver a top-notch customer experience. The Spa Host also contributes to retail sales by being on the floor and available for inquiry, making sure the retail is merchandised and looks fresh.

The Spa Concierge (29 total) is the “heartbeat of the milk + honey experience,” says Smith. “She manages the flow of the front desk, the check-in/out experience, offers support with describing and scheduling services, knowledgeably and confidently speaks about retail offerings and manages the cash drawer. She is the last person the client sees before leaving milk + honey, so she has a big responsibility to finish with a bang! They close retail sales, which is another very important contributor to revenue.”

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OUTREACH MANAGER As teaming with local businesses and being an integral part of your spa’s community becomes more important, the need for an Outreach Manager might arise. SenSpa in San Francisco, Calif., created this unique position three years ago to help build the brand beyond traditional marketing and advertising.

“My role is to be the voice, face and ambassador of the SenSpa brand,” says outreach manager Terri Eaton. “My responsibilities include partnering with local businesses, collaborating with social and exercise-based groups in San Francisco, managing the online presence, including monthly email

The Outreach Manager touches every aspect of the business and its revenue. campaigns to existing clients and all of our social media accounts, as well as onsite educational events, field marketing and making connections with

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local and national press and generating the copy and content as the voice of the spa.”

Spa director Jenean LaRoche says the biggest benefit to this position is that it helps shape the message of the SenSpa. “It truly is the first impression and this transcends across the board from in-person networking to the event signage created for spa display,” she says. “The Outreach Manager touches each aspect of the business and its revenue, whether it’s creating a relationship with a social group, developing promotions, or being the media voice. All of the facets of Outreach can be time consuming, so having a person with a singular focus streamlines the voice and provides effectiveness with the goals in place.”

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Stop by Booth 923 for your Under Eye Treat The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas, TX

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SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER It used to be that the marketing director handled marketing, advertising, brand awareness, public relations, community outreach and, more recently, social media. However more spas are finding the need to branch out these separate jobs into positions of their own — especially for social media, due to its

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proven power to bring in new clients and market to the existing ones.

SunWater Spa in Manitou Springs, Colo., originally hired their first Social Media Manager, Paotie Dawson, after Dawson was hired to help promote a local event in town. “It was a huge success so they asked me to join their team to set up and manage all of their social media platforms. As a deaf person, this is the perfect job for me,” says Dawson.

Dawson is tasked with not only managing all of the spa’s social media accounts, but the website as well.

“A Social Media Manager enhances the marketing process for the spa,” says Dawson. “It is another avenue to disseminate infor mation and messages about the spa. I work with a great marketing team and our media/ art director. In many ways, the social media platforms we have provide people, whether customers or potential customers, an additional avenue to know what’s going on at the spa.”

DIRECTOR of GIVING Giving back to the community is a big goal of Spa Gregorie’s Day Spa & Salon in Newport Beach and Rancho Santa Margarita, Calif. Seven years ago, they added the position of Director of Giving to have a person dedicated to determining where the spa’s charitable donations should go.

“The deluge of charity requests necessitated the creation of a central responsibility for managing our commitment to community support,” says owner Angela Cortright. “Community support is part of our mission statement, so it is a critical position in our company.”

The Director of Giving has programs and practices that ensure that the spa’s resources are best used. One means of doing this is through the spa’s charity wall, which won Spa Gregorie’s president Scott Duncan the Innovator Award from the International Spa

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Association (ISPA) last year. The charity wall’s signage says, “Help us direct our charity outreach. Place a stone in the bowl that most closely resonates with a cause dear to you.” The current choices for causes include military, childhood diseases, cancer and food banks.

“The charity wall enhances the guest experience by enabling them to embrace our commitment to community support by involving them in our charity decisions,” adds Cortright.

“It enhances our brand in the community by making sure that Spa Gregorie’s support is present in as many charity events as possible.”

ALTITUDE AMBASSADOR While an Altitude Ambassador is not applicable to most spas in the U.S., it can be created to serve the very specific needs of some clients in high altitudes. That’s just what Bloom Spa at The Sebastian, a Timbers Resort in Vail, Colo., has done to help guests, especially those new to their area, handle the high altitude of their state.

“We’re located at over 8,000 feet above sea level, so we introduced the Altitude Ambassador position to help guests manage the elements of high

A Social Media Manager enhances the marketing process for the spa.

altitude living as it relates to skin, hair and muscle care,” says Robert Friedl, general manager of The Sebastian – Vail. “We customize spa treatments to address altitude-specific issues, as well as recommend products geared toward combating the high altitude.”

One treatment to help when guests are feeling uneasy due to the high altitude is the spa’s Aromatherapy Massage (50 minutes, $165 and 80 minutes, $245), which features a traditional Swedish massage with an aromatherapy-infused oil of their choice based on what is ailing them. For instance, trouble sleeping is a common symptom of altitude sickness. If the guest tossed and turned all night, then the massage therapist would suggest the soothing oil. Energizing oil, on the other hand, is used to alleviate the altitude sickness symptoms of feeling weak and tired. 

Red-hot tips for a profitable season...

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CELEBRATED OPENING

Repêchage CEO and founder Lydia Sarfati joined Repêchage Mexico distributor Mayola Amador to celebrate the grand opening of Mamma Mia Salon & Facial Bar. The new concept salon and spa’s focus is on providing a unique experience catering to the beauty, health and welfare of mothers and daughters.

Selecting Repêchage professional skin care products and treatments to cater to their clients is a testament to the quality of the Repêchage line.

800.248.SKIN (7546) repechage.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

CHARITABLE CAUSE

NEW ACADEMY

Performance Health introduces the Performance Health Academy, a content-rich resource built upon the foundation of the TheraBand Academy.

This new site supports Performance Health’s successful and continued brand growth with a greater variety of content targeted at a broader clinical audience.

The Performance Health Academy provides research, trends and articles targeted primarily to physical therapists, chiropractors, massage therapists, athletic trainers and occupational therapists. It allows all users to gain insight into the best practices for using TheraBand® products, such as CLX™ Consecutive Loops and Kinesiology Tape, and Biofreeze®, TheraPearl®, Cramer® and Bon Vital’® products.

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“The Dog Bed Fairy Project is having an immediate impact on the quality of life animals have in shelter environments,” says Shannon McLinden, CEO of FarmHouse Fresh®.

888.773.9626 farmhousefreshgoods.com

800.321.2135 performancehealth.com

LASH ARTIST OF THE YEAR

When NovaLash CEO Sophy Merszei created LASHoff, the first annual contest for eyelash stylists six years ago, she wanted to give entrants the opportunity to further develop their skills and their businesses by recognizing their work in this segment of the industry. Merszei announced the company’s newest Lash Artist of the Year winner, Maribeth Melton during a ceremony at Houston’s Hotel Zaza.

“Maribeth perfectly executed the technique, experience and safe approach necessary in creating the signature NovaLash eye look,” says Merszei.

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FarmHouse Fresh®, a natural and organic skin care company, has parlayed its philanthropic animal rescue mission into an 18-page picture book.

Each book purchase ($10) donates $7 directly to the donation of dog beds for a waiting list of shelters and rescues around the country. In return for book purchases, the company turns customers’ personal selfies into “Certified Dog Bed Fairies” complete with wings and halos.

866.430.1261 novalash.com LNeonline.com

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EYE OPENING

by Amanda Clinton Winter

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EYE DO GUIDE

kohl and black oxide were combined to create luscious lashes and prominent brows. Trends continued to change through the centuries: from daring, understated to even more daring. From Cleopatra to Cara, it’s clear that lashes and brows play an important part in bringing out the face’s most beautiful features — the perfect “eye do.”

Do’ing it best

Bigger, bolder, better When it comes to beauty treatments that create a dramatic difference, nothing works quite as well as framing the eye’s natural beauty with stylish brows and lashes. An instant perk-up, the face looks brighter, glamorous and alluring.

It’s no wonder the lash and brow industry has seen constant growth, as more clients than ever are lusting for long lashes and begging for bold brows.

Styling forward Lash and brow trends have come full circle ever since fashion model Cara Delevingne created an Internet frenzy with what were quickly dubbed “power brows.” According to Google statistics, the search term “fuller eyebrows” has exploded since the model took over the beauty world with her bold looks.

Not surprisingly, stylish brows and lashes go as far back as ancient Egypt, when both men and women wore makeup for its supernatural powers.

To enhance the eye and pay homage to their sun god, natural materials like

With more and more clients demanding dramatic lashes and standout brows, these offerings have become one of the fastest-growing segments of the industry. For a successful brow and lash business that keeps your clients coming back, you need to know the best practices, hire the right people, offer innovative services and protect your business from liability mishaps.

First, on page 60, spas share insight on all the latest innovative lash and brow treatment concepts making a mark in the industry. Tiara lashes, Tahitian feathering and ombré brows are just a few of the terms decoded in “A Framing Delight.”

Next, learn how to master the “golden ratio” method for perfectly arched brows in “Brows on Fleek,” starting on page 66. All technicians must master this important technique that transcends time, style and shifting trends.

The crucial component necessary to offer these services, the lash and brow bar, is explained in “Raising the Beauty Bar,” starting on page 70.

Learn about every aspect you need to consider when establishing this lucrative component of your business, from hiring the right person, finding the perfect space, creating an enticing service menu, establishing perfect partnerships and effective marketing!

When adding brow and lash services to your business, it is essential that you select top quality extensions and

tools suited to your clients’ needs, and understand how to take care of those materials for sanitation and longevity.

“Enduring Peepers” tackles this issue and all the essential dos and don’ts you need to know starting on page 76. Finally, as with any new service you introduce into your spa, it is essential to ensure you take the proper precautions to protect your clients and your business. “Eyes Wide Open” explains what you need to consider in terms of risks, preventative measures and protecting your practice when you incorporate lash and brow services into your business, starting on page 78.

Look no further than our Eye Do guide for all the eye-opening insight you need to boost your business with brows and lashes! 

More clients than ever are lusting for long lashes and begging for bold brows.

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and Psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in Public Relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

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EYE DO GUIDE EYE DO GUIDE

K

eeping up with the eve r- c h a n g i n g trends in beauty can be a daunting task. But, if your client comes in asking for Cara Delevinge brows or wants Tiara Lashes like Kylie Jenner and your technician doesn’t know what she’s talking about, you’re going to lose business. While big brows and lush lashes still reign supreme, there are plenty of fresh trends-withinthe-trend to brush up on.

A DELIGHT

The latest eyebrow and lash trends

by Caroline Canetti

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BROW TRENDS Eyebrow Extensions Even though eyebrow extensions are still relatively new, there have already been advances in the technology. “It used to be that brow extensions could only be applied to existing hairs, but now they can be applied directly onto the skin as well,” says Barbara Rattigan, owner of LashSpot Spa and Lotus Salon & Spa in Costa Mesa, Calif. “The brow is drawn in with a combination of cyanoacrylate, color and silicone to create a tinted substance to draw directly onto the skin. With this semi-permanent product you can draw into an existing brow or start from scratch. Once the shape is designed you can apply brow extensions to the existing hairs or directly onto the skin.” These services are usually 60 minutes, $50 - $85.

Micro-Blading Micro -blading ( aka 3D Eyebrow Sculpture or 3D Eyebrow Embroidery) is a revolutionary process that creates the most natural-looking results for fuller brows. “It’s a semi-permanent tattoo,” says Nancy Reagan, owner of Bella Reina Spa in Delray Beach, Fla. “Individual ‘hair strokes’ are carefully drawn on with a feathering technique with a special pen using all-natural vegan pigments. This one-by-one stroke simulates the look of real eyebrows.

The results are simply fabulous, especially for clients who have alopecia or other problems with their eyebrows.”

The micro-blading for partial brow is

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90 minutes for $350 and the full brow session for 120 minutes is $500.

Ombré Brows Ombré brows, also referred to as gradient brows, are similar in concept to the ombré hair dye jobs in salons that can, for instance, gradually fade from black to dark brown to light brown. “This is created with makeup pencils and powders, but it could be enhanced with careful application of tint or henna,” says Vanessa Manel, owner of Vanessa Manel in Los Angeles. “I have also seen dyed ombré brows with funky colors too, but obviously the classic natural

Ombré brows, also referred to as gradient brows, are similar in concept to ombré hair dye jobs.

EYE DO GUIDE

hair-type colors — brunette, brown, dark blonde, black — are what are most popular.” Manel says they often do ombré brows on their younger clients who come in for a Date Night Makeup Application (30 minutes, $40).

Brushed Up Brows “Bushy” used to be a four-letter word when it came to brow styles, but many runway and high-fashion models, such as Cara Delevigne, are bringing bushy back! “Brows are still in the world of ‘Bigger is Better’ and this is another way to achieve that look,” says Rattigan. “It’s just a simple styling technique where you brush the eyebrow hairs with an eyebrow brush or comb straight up so that hairs are facing toward the forehead as opposed to being brushed to the side for a more sleek look.” LashSpot’s Brow Shaping services are $15 for members and $25 for non-members.

Men’s Brow Services More men are coming in not just to tidy up unruly brows and remove their unibrows, but to make fashion statements as well. The most popular male brow treatments at FACES Lash Studio and FACES DaySpa in Hilton Head Island, S.C., are threading ($25), waxing ($20$25) and tinting ($30). “Men are tinting their brows to cover grays and make their eyes pop,” says studio manager Alexis Sargo. “We have a client who has very dark hair, but his brows are very light. He chooses to tint his brows to make his brows match his hair. It makes a huge difference. And, they prefer waxing to threading. Men tend to have coarser hair, which can be painful to remove. Threading removes hair much slower than waxing, so waxing tends to be the best for them.”

“Brows are still in the world of ‘Bigger is Better’ and this is another way to achieve that look.”

LASH TRENDS Tiara Lash There’s a new beauty trendsetter in the Kardashian family. Kylie Jenner is making the Tiara Lash popular. Similar to the look of an actual tiara, which features a variation of lengths, this lash look uses multiple lengths directly next to each other, varying from 8mm, 9mm and 10mm and then back down to 9mm and 8mm. “With this you are creating a more vivid lash look,” says Rattigan. “These extensions are used for volume. When you grasp multiple lashes with your tweezers, you now have multiple length extensions applied to one natural lash.” Tiara lash extension services range from 60-120 minutes, $200-$250.

Volume Lashes The demand for Volume Lashes is not subsiding anytime soon. While they can go by many names — Russian Volume Technique, 3D, 5D, 7D, etc. —

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Volume lashing involves finer, more featherweight lashes.

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EYE DO GUIDE

the look is the same: big, full, long and voluminous. “Volume lashing involves finer, more featherweight lashes,” says Manel. “The number of featherweight lashes you put in each cluster generally defines volume lashes, so 3D is just a cluster of three lashes splayed out on your tweezers that you put on the root of the natural lash… we pick up the number we want with curved tweezers and apply to the root of the natural lash.” A regular full set of extensions takes between 60 and 120 minutes to apply and costs $225.

Tahitian Feathering Tahitian Feathering entails applying several lightweight (.05 or .07mm) lashes of varying lengths up and down the shaft of one lash to create an effect that looks soft, light and wispy like a feather.

“It’s not unlike the technique we all do called tabbing, which is a technique to handle grow-out,” explains Manel. “So when lashes are growing out, there is space between the artificial lash and the root of your lash. Sometimes the lash technician will determine it’s better to just add a lash there than to try to remove the other lash.”

have clients who like to use colors to display their team spirit and will add yellow/gold to their black extensions if a Pittsburgh Steelers fan, for instance.” FACES doesn’t charge extra for colored extensions. It’s included in the price of the lash service the client requests, which ranges from $99 (75 minutes) for their Coy Full Set of Lashes up to $199 for 5D Volume Full Set (105 minutes).

Lash Perm, Lift or Curl For the most part, the terms “perm,” “lift” and “curl” are interchangeable.

A lash perm (usually 60 minutes, $69) is best for the client who is happy with the length and thickness of their natural lash, but just prefers their lashes lifted or curled to open up the eyes a little more without going the full extension route. “That said, we have permed clients’ lashes before applying extensions, as well,” says Sargo.

“We also find that a lash tint applied first complements the perm very well, and this service complements products very well.”

Lash Tints In addition to a lash tint being a good pre-perm service, this service is also well suited to clients who aren’t on the extension bandwagon and want a darker, but natural look. It lasts about six weeks. “This is for someone who doesn’t want the heavy look of extensions or even of thick mascara,” says Rattigan. “They just want to darken their lashes to help their eyes stand out in the most natural way. Men get this done as well.” At LashSpot, lash tints are $25 for members and $35 for non-members.

Men’s Lash Services Men are extending, tinting and curling their lashes more than ever before.

FACES Lash Studio says lash tinting (30 minutes, $30) is their most popular service for men. “Some men have lighter lashes, and a darker tint really helps define their eyes,” says Sargo.

“This is the perfect low maintenance option for them.” 

Color & Sparkle Extensions Stocking up on some brightly-colored and glitter lash extensions in your lash toolkit appeals to the younger client who wants to get all dolled up for a special event or just a night out at the clubs. “Our clients were pleasantly surprised to see that we offer colored and glitter lashes,” says Sargo. “Blue and purple are the most popular, they compliment the eye colors the best and allow the eyes to pop. We also

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BROWS

The golden ratio for sculpted arches

by Melissa Black

A Historical Snapshot As far back as ancient Egypt and the darkly painted arches of Queen Nefertiti, people have been obsessed with eyebrows and the way they frame the face. A myriad of brow shapes have taken center stage over the last century alone.

The early 1920s ushered in the era of the movie starlet and everything Hollywood became all the rage. The paparazzi was born and details about the grooming habits of actresses were now chronicled for the public. Every young flapper copied the look of silent film maven Clara Bow — extremely thin, straight, dark brows coated with Vaseline.

In the 1930s, the flavor du jour was dramatically rounded arches. Jean Harlow and Marlene

Dietrich modeled a severely tweezed look, moving the trend away from the straight, drawn on line.

Many of the brow shapes we see today have been inspired by the 1940s, which brought a softer, more natural brow shape. However there was one exception — instead of rounded, the trend was a heavily angled arch, exemplified by movie star Joan Crawford.

In the 1950s and 1960s, big and bold was de rigueur. Trendsetters such as Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Liz Taylor sported a thicker, well-groomed brow. This was filled in with darker pencils, regardless of whether one was a platinum blonde or brunette.

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EYE DO GUIDE Shedding the confines of the midcentury, the 1970s rolled around with glittery discothèques and the androgynous style of celebrities like David Bowie. This brought a rebellion to thickly groomed brows and reeled the looks back to a thin, highly arched style not seen since the 1930s. Celebrities leading this movement included Farrah Fawcett, Liza Minnelli and Diana Ross.

The 1980s brought about a complete 180-degree turn as the Brooke Shields brow — thick, brushed up and mostly unkempt — adorned every magazine cover. This look remained the staple until the 1990s, when grunge swept in and took over the mainstream trend. Once again, for a brief time, thin was in and personalities like Gwen Stefani, Kate Moss and Drew Barrymore were the reigning sweethearts.

The early 2000s marked a gradual filling in of the brows. By 2010, the brow craze we see today was in full bloom. Kim Kardashian, the latest YouTube darling and everyone’s Instagram feed have now witnessed a new religion, which is an unparalleled brow fetish being played out daily with no sign of stopping.

Today’s brow clients are keenly aware of the trends, know exactly how they want their brows to look and are educated on the products that achieve them. These clients want and expect their esthetician to deliver these brows with precision. This is where the golden ratio comes in…

The Golden Ratio Many great works of art were created using the golden ratio, a mathematical equation dating as far back as 1509, created to yield aesthetically harmonious proportions. Many actually learn this very technique in esthetics school — though perhaps never knowing its name — and every popular brow brand today uses the golden ratio as the cor68

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nerstone of their training. When faced with the task to create beautiful arches, follow this simple technique to produce the best brows each and every time.

Using a brow pencil, follow these three steps to determine the golden ratio: • Using the middle of the nostril as a starting point, draw a line straight up to find the start of the brow.

• Next, using the middle area underneath the tip of the nose as a starting point, draw a line diagonally through the pupil to the brow to find the highest point of the arch.

• Finally, from the outside of the

nostril, draw a diagonal line to the outside corner of the eye to find the end point of the brow.

To further customize the brows to best fit the shape of your client’s face, consider the following points: • Heart shaped face: A softer, more rounded arch balances out a pointed chin with a rounded forehead.

• Round shaped face: A strong structured brow adds definition and length.

• Square shaped face: Carved angles balance a square jaw along with a high accent arch to make the face appear narrower.

EYE DO GUIDE

Final Touch Now it’s time to finish your masterpiece with all the cosmetic accoutrements that you can also retail. Here is a stepby-step guide for filling in the brows.

1 With a brow pencil or brow powder and an angled brow brush, draw a clear line under the brow line, starting slightly inward from the beginning of the brow.

2 Repeat this exact step on top of the brow.

3 Using either a brow pencil or brow powder and an angled brow brush, fill the brows in with short, small strokes, leaving it slightly lighter at the beginning of the brow.

4 • Oblong shaped face: A flatter arch with a shorter brow makes a long face appear fuller.

Methods Now that you know how to tackle the exact brow shape to give your client, the next question to consider is what form of hair removal to use — threading, brow planing or waxing. This, of course, depends on your personal preference and area of training or expertise.

Take a spoolie or disposable mascara wand and brush through brows to create a nice, blended effect.

Pencils, brow powders, angled brushes, highlighters and brow gels complete the look and help your client recreate it at home.

Retail Pencils, brow powders, angled brushes, highlighters and brow gels complete the look and help your client recreate it at home. This keeps your client coming back for more of your expertise and replenishment of their favorite tools. Retailing items used in your service boosts your revenue, and it is a proven fact that clients who purchase retail from your salon or spa are more loyal and visit more frequently.

Whatever the future holds for trends in brows and brow shaping, practicing these defined steps with the golden ratio will keep your client’s brows on fleek in any decade. 

5 Set brows in place using a brow gel.

6 Using a concealer pencil and brush, define underneath the brow bone, along the top and sides of the brow for beautiful definition and highlighting.

Melissa Black is the owner of Bombshell Salons & Candy Coat Beauty, based out of Richmond, Va. Black is a master esthetician and has been in the industry for more than two decades. An entrepreneur, she has built brands and developed techniques with a proven track record of success in the world of waxing.

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RAISING THE

BEAUTY BAR

Create a brow and lash hotspot

by Alisa Garrett

A brow or lash bar is the ultimate experience for creating beautiful eyes and enhancing a beautiful face. In the last decade, brow products have become the fastest growing segment of prestigious cosmetics, growing on average more than 20 percent year over year for the last five years.

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T

his statistic is a testament to how much today’s clients expect and demand lash and brow treatments !

Salons don’t send their clients out with wet hair after a haircut, so why would you send your clients out with waxed but unfinished brows or sparse, barely visible lashes? Brows and lashes are hotter than ever, and spa clients are demanding beautiful, complete brow shaping services and lustrous lashes.

And of course, your goal is always to give your clients what they want!

Today’s trends A brow shaping service entails more than waxing the brows. First, a brow expert consults with clients about the perfect shape, style and desires for their brow makeover. This is followed with meticulous grooming of the brows, tailored to meet their needs. Then the brows are filled in with a brow powder, pencil, or both, defined with a highlighter and set with a gel.

Lashes hold the same allure — what better way for your clients to show off their doe eyes than with beautiful lash extensions, semi-permanent mascara, eye popping volume or seductive curls?

Although some lash services, like extensions, may take as long as two to three hours for an initial application, clients seeking these looks are willing to commit to the time and cost.

You can elevate your brow shaping or lash enhancing services by teaching clients how to finish their brows or lashes and perform at home touch-ups in between appointments, using tools and products you can retail for the ultimate boost in revenue!

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1

Hire the right person

This is the most important factor in making sure your brow and lash bar is a success. Shaping brows, applying extensions and other lash and brow enhancements are talents, just like any esthetic service. If your technician’s work is exceptional, their appointment book will be full. Hire a licensed esthetician or cosmetologist with a strong background in makeup artistry to be solely dedicated to lash and brow services.

In addition to providing outstanding services, this person should also know how to sell retail, and educate clients about brow and lash maintenance.

In your interview process, review the candidates’ portfolios, watch them work on actual clients and assess their personal styles to ensure they reflect those of your facility. If you’re unsure about whether you need a full-time brow and lash technician, use one on a part-time basis and build the business from there.

2

Utilize the right space

The brow and lash bar should be kept in the middle of an active area to draw attention to these services and products and create excitement. Many clients coming in for other treatments who see the beautifying services taking place firsthand will be enticed to try it

EYE DO GUIDE themselves. An exception to this rule is your lash extension service, which should be done in a private room where the client can feel comfortable lying down for two to three hours during the initial application.

You don’t need to tear your facility apart to set up a lash and brow bar.

Start small and set up a portable station equipped with storage, display panels and a lighted mirror. Clients should sit in a comfortable chair with arm and foot rests. The chair should recline and must be 28 to 32 inches tall so the technician does not have to bend over. The area needs to be welllit and there should be enough space on the station for wax, supplies and finishing products.

3

Establish the right partnerships

When introducing lash and brow services into your business, you need to partner with numerous companies to address every aspect of lash and brow services and retail. You may have one partner specifically for lash and brow tools, another for wax, and so on.

Your lineup of partners should include companies that represent all types of services — from tinting, extensions, cleansing and semi-permanent mascara to volumizing and lengthening.

For your retail lineup, make sure you have products that address every aspect of between service care, which will likely require partnerships with multiple companies.

For both back bar and retail, consider the following before committing to partners:

Reach out to industry peers for feedback about the brands they know and use. Find out which companies have worked well for them in this category and why, as well as which product lines presented issues or shortcomings. This will help you avoid the same pitfalls.

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Offer a onetime complimentary brow touchup or lash enhancement to all clients.

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EYE DO GUIDE

Research online reviews of the products in every category and ensure you select only those with highly positive ratings. In addition to the overall ratings, read what reviewers have to say to make sure you fully understand the positive and negative aspects of any company you consider.

Does your staff love the product line?

This is key, as your technicians can be more convincing when explaining the benefits of the products if they genuinely love them. This translates into selling more services and retail.

Speak to a company representative and find out what they offer in terms of ongoing education and support.

Find a company that offers the support with sales and continuing education that you need.

4

Create a complete service menu

Include the following options on your brow and lash menu. Make sure the menu is posted online, featured in your spa and added to your menu cards.

Touch-ups: Offer a onetime complimentary brow touch-up (no waxing) or lash enhancement to all clients at the conclusion of their services. This is a great way to introduce your clients to these options so they are enticed to request a paid service on their next visit. It only takes a few minutes, and demonstrates to your clients how to style their brows or enhance their lashes with products you can retail.

your market and business, and last approximately 20-25 minutes.

Deluxe brow makeover: This includes basic brow shaping and finishing of the brows, as well as the introduction of skin care products. Add an eye mask during the service for extra relaxation.

Finish with an eye cream and facial mist.

Fees range from $25 to $60, depending on your market and business, and last approximately 25-30 minutes.

Series and monthly memberships: These programs offer clients a discount in price for buying a set program, and are a great way to gain repeat clientele.

À la carte services: These include lash and brow tinting, lash and brow extensions (and removal), volume lashing, lash cleansing, brow shaping and coloring (see “A Framing Delight” on page 60 to learn about the latest lash and brow services). Consider offering these services at a discounted price when chosen as “add-ons” to other services.

This encourages guests who may be reluctant to spend a lot of money on an unfamiliar service to try them and find out how great they are!

5

Promote the lash and brow bar

Take the following steps to ensure you are publicizing the brow and lash bar for maximum effect:

Email blas t s are another ef fective means of keeping your clients informed.

Keep your website updated with current services, prices, promotions and product offerings.

Incentivize your clients to write rave reviews about your services on platforms like Yelp, Angie’s List, Facebook, Foursquare and Google Reviews.

6

Get ALL staff on board

Brow and lash technicians must be educated on the products and services, but the rest of your staff should be as well. They can play a big part in promoting the services to their clients. After all, beautiful brows and lashes complement beautiful skin and makeup! 

Your technicians can be more convincing when explaining the benefits of the products if they genuinely love them.

Alisa Garrett has 20 years

Merchandise and advertise in your location.

of experience in the beauty industry in many channels of distribution, including prestige retail, professional salons

Classic brow makeover: A basic shaping and finishing of the brows. Fees range from $20-$50 depending on

Utilize social media platforms to communicate to your clients about what’s happening in your spa.

and spas, e-commerce, catalogs, flash sales and beauty boxes. She has successfully launched multiple brands into prestige retailers and salons.

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The materials you choose determine the quality of your results.

ENDURING Select and preserve lashes and brows

by Virginie Giguère

O

nce you’ve decided to implement a brow or lash practice, selecting materials and taking proper care to preserve them is an important step. The right choice in materials not only enhances the beauty of your clients’ eyes but also makes your job as a technician easier. Quality materials improve your techniques and ensure lasting results for your clients.

SELECT Eyelash and eyebrow extensions: When choosing eyebrow and eyelash extensions, remember the materials you choose determine the quality of your results. If the extensions come in a tray format, make sure there’s no glue residue at the base of the extension. Also make sure extensions are: The right shape/curve. Keep your clients’ eyelashes healthy by using the right shape, thickness and length.

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EYE DO GUIDE

You want to respect the thickness of the natural lashes, using thin extensions on thin lashes and thicker extensions on thicker lashes. Selecting a variety of materials ensures you are ready for each unique eye shape.

Heat resistant. When your client takes a shower, goes to the beach, is exposed to direct sunlight or even cooks, they’ll want their extensions to stay on and keep their curl.

Test the materials beforehand by placing three or four extensions in hot water for about three minutes. If they don’t straighten, the batch of extensions should keep their curl in a natural environment.

Flexible. It’s important for extensions to be both strong and flexible, giving the client a light feel with no tightness or heaviness. Flexible extensions last longer, look natural and are more comfortable to wear. You should have a variety of extensions available to accommodate your client’s specific needs.

• Material: silk, mink, polyester • Finish: matte, semi-gloss, gloss • Different curves, thicknesses and lengths • Different colors, specifically for brows.

Tweezers: You can use different types of tweezers with different tip angles depending on the type of application—whether voluminous or classic — and your personal preference.

Look for tweezers with: - Precise tips.

- A good grip. The tips should close together perfectly.

- Gold tips. If your client is allergic to any metal, gold tips can prevent an allergic reaction.

Most importantly, select tweezers that can be sterilized chemically or mechanically.

Professional tip: Do not use your favorite tweezers to grab the lash strip from the tray. Glue residue from the tray can stick to the tweezers and thus stick to the extensions.

Dos Wash your hands before and after an application.

Disinfect your tweezers between each client.

Use a set of patches on one client only.

Change your acetone jar every ten clients.

Use one drop of glue per client.

Keep your glue in a refrigerator.

Store your glue bottle with the needle cap to prevent clogging.

Put glue drop on a jade stone to prevent it from drying too fast. The ideal temperature to preserve a glue drop is 71.6 degrees Fahrenheit and 35 percent humidity.

Don’ts Acetone should not be used to disinfect tweezers, as it’s prone to harvesting bacteria.

Never use acetone to remove glue residue during an application. If you notice glue residue during an application, just rub the tips of the tweezers together to remove it.

Don’t keep your glue bottle at room temperature during an application. Take it out of the fridge to take a drop You should always use and put it back immediately patches when performbefore you start. ing an application, both The mascara brush used underneath the eye and during the application should on the eyelid. Bottom be given to the client at the patches protect the end or thrown out but never lashes and eyes from re-used on another client. sharp tweezers and glue vapors, while upper With these tips, you can enpatches help clients keep sure a safe, quality treatment their eyes closed, reduce and long-lasting extensions redness by 70 percent you clients can easily mainand also protect the tain. They can leave your saeyelid from tweezers. lon or spa with a smile on their faces and all the tools they need to protect their new lashes and brows. 

Patches

PRESERVE Your reputation as a technician should always be at the forefront of your mind when it comes to sanitizing and preserving your tools and materials. Working with a client’s delicate eye area can leave them at risk to pink eye and other infections if you are not careful. Remember, it is much easier to destroy a reputation and lose clientele than it is to build your business.

Virginie Giguère is a leading research and development speaker and trainer for Misencil. She has mastered the art of creating a glamorous look with eyelash extensions and eyebrows. A globetrotter on the lookout for trends and new technologies in esthetics, Giguère’s travels inspire her research and feed her creativity to design new cosmetic and technical concepts for Misencil.

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EYES OPEN Lash and brow insurance

by Susan Etter

W hether you are from the era of Marilyn Monroe, Twiggy or Adele, it’s hard not to appreciate what amazing lashes can do not only for the eyes but the whole face.

They are the easiest way to brighten a face and create a dramatic look even without makeup. The latest offerings in brow and lash extensions give such a natural look, it’s no wonder lash and brow bars are popping up all over the country.

However, these particular beauty offerings seem to strike fear in the hearts of salon and spa insurance carriers. The reason for this is not overly clear, perhaps because most insurance providers don’t understand the nature of these treatments.

To prevent potential fallouts, it’s important to understand your coverage options and the best ways to decrease the chance for costly mistakes.

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EYE DO GUIDE

Know the Risks You should be sure to review your policy coverage and exclusions carefully, or better yet have a good agent that can do this for you. Do this before starting to offer these treatments, as some carriers can cancel your policy if they find out you are performing certain services such as eyelash extensions.

Go into any expansion in your business with your eyes wide open — and beautifully adorned of course!

Prevent Mishaps The first step in reducing risks is to provide quality services. For eyelash extensions, be sure you are using high quality eyelashes and glue; this can mitigate the risk of an allergic reaction. Provide extensive training for your technicians, as the technique used to apply lashes takes finesse and practice. Just like any profession, consider having one or two people specialize in this service. This can help prevent the likelihood of getting glue in the eye or causing a corneal abrasion.

Threading or waxing eyebrows and other facial hair can open the skin to a higher risk of infection or picking up MRSA. Be sure to keep your wax pot clean and sanitary, as well as at a constant temperature. Waxing burns are very common insurance claims for salons and spas. It is also important to work with onetime use equipment and keep a sterile environment.

Finally, be very clear with aftercare instructions. Send the client home with written details; do not expect them to remember what you said during the visit. For eyelash extensions, include cautions like staying away from water and hot steamy areas for 24 hours, to not pull or tug on eyelashes, what can happen if regular mascara is applied, what happens when makeup remover 80

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reacts with eyelash glue and, most importantly, what to expect when the eyelashes have grown out.

Protect Your Practice If your insurance policy doesn’t cover these procedures, stand-alone policies are available to cover the professional exposure brought forth with these services. Then if you want to keep your current policy in place, you can. Otherwise, some insurance carriers cover all services within a practice, as well as general liability and property coverage.

Many policies for independent contractors start as low as $150 - $200 annually for professional and general liability coverage. Property coverage tends to be additional. Full salon and spa policies can usually be obtained for about $1,000 to $2,000 depending on the size of the operation. As with any policy, be sure that the insurance company or agent understands all of your operations, including your retail sales of take home products. Eyelash growing and strengthening solutions are also growing in popularity and can present a minor professional exposure

if you instruct the client in the office on how to apply the serum.

Once you’ve properly covered yourself and your business, lash and brow treatments can be quite an asset to your beauty business. Eyelash extensions specifically have a high return on investment when looking at the cost of the procedure for the client versus the materials needed to perform the service. Needing a fill-in or touch-up every six to eight weeks keeps the customers coming back. While trends and treatments may come and go, this is one extravagance that could easily become a staple in the lives of many women of all backgrounds. After all, who doesn’t like pretending to be Adele while singing in the car? 

Susan Etter is the underwriting department manager for Professional Program Insurance Brokerage (PPIB) and is part of the marketing/business development team. She joined the company in 2010, bringing with her a 16-year background in insurance. Etter has a strong knowledge of the issues facing the medical spa and beauty industry. She is a well-known speaker and writer, providing advice on ways to develop a successful business and implement procedures to increase loss control and prevention.

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HIPPOPHAE BERRIES are one of the most abundant natural sources known to man. They provide a plethora of both internal benefits as a supplement and external age-preventative and skin-beautifying properties. They have been used for centuries as a remedy for wellness, health and beauty, predominantly in Europe and Asia. These miracle berries are accompanied by an ancient legend passed down from one generation to the next, originating from Eastern Europe.

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THE MEANING BEHIND “HIPPOPHAE”

POWER-PACKED PROPERTIES

So what is the secret behind the name of these magical berries? The origin spans back to when the Greeks fed their horses sea buckthorn berries as part of their daily diet. The horses grew thick, silky, healthy manes. Accordingly, the berries were named Hippophae, which translates to “shiny horse.”

Hippophae oil, the usable form of hippophae berries, is derived from two sources: the seeds and the pulp of hippophae berries. The seeds contain one of the highest and purest percentages of vitamin E, and the pulp contains extraordinary amounts of carotenoids, including vitamin A, beta-carotenoids and its derivatives.

Carotenoids are responsible for the unique reddish-orange color of the berries. In addition to these powerful carotenoids, hippophae berries’ very long list of bio-active, skin-soothing and anti-aging elements includes flavonoids, organic acids (e.g. folic acid), oleic acid (omega-9), linolenic acid (omega-3 and omega-6), arachidonic acid (omega-6) from vitamin F, palmitoleic acid (omega-7), thiamine (vitamins B1), riboflavin (vitamin B2), vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin K, phospholipids and minerals.

MYTHICAL POWERS The story behind Hippophae berries begins with a young Siberian woman who got lost in the forest. As her anxiety grew, she began running in fear, not seeing anything in front of her. She frantically ran through the woods, not feeling the tree branches and thorns tearing at her skin. When she reached the river, she was terrified by her own reflection; her face was covered in scrapes and wounds.

Standing next to her was a beautiful plant with berries. In desperation, she crushed and rubbed the berries all over her assaulted skin and cried herself to sleep. When she awoke the next morning, she leaned to the water to wash her face, and saw in the reflection that her skin was miraculously healed. Those magical berries were Hippophae, also commonly known as sea buckthorn berries.

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• nutritional boost Consumed as a liquid oil supplement or tea, hippophae oil helps to boost health, strengthen and stimulate cell regeneration for beautiful hair, skin and nails. In addition, the micro-elements biologically available in the berries — including magnesium, calcium, copper and potassium — encourage healthy bones. Furthermore, its powerful antioxidant properties defend against and neutralize damaging free radicals, making it a potential anti-carcinogen.

• wrinkle prevention Hippophae berries help promote younger-looking skin. Vitamin K in hippophae berries works rigorously to maintain skin elasticity and firmness. The combined action of vitamins K and A enable a skin brightening effect. Furthermore, folic acid in combination with B vitamins stimulates cell proliferation, which helps minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

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• acne, blemish and rosacea control Hippophae effectively encourages the purging of backed-up sebum in the sebaceous glands. Sebum that does not have a way to exit the pores inevitably triggers infection, often resulting in acne. The fatty acids in the berries are non-comedogenic — because they do not clog pores, they are able to treat and decrease the severity of future breakouts as well as combat acne.

Vitamin B is recognized for its anti-stress benefits as well as its effectiveness in maintaining healthy blood cells, both critical in the treatment of rosacea. The balance of natural, selfgenerating lubricants on the skin is improved through the remarkable action of vitamin B, folic acid and vitamin K.

• natural sun protection The synergistic, combined action of vitamins E and C allow the skin to naturally protect itself against UV sun exposure. With ultraviolet radiation being such a prominent cause of skin cancer, Hippophae berries not only halt sun related tissue damaging, they also function as a powerful skin cancer deterrent.

Hippophae-rich formulas are a craf t for cosmetic chemists to perfect, because with a two percent or higher concentration of the oil applied topically, the product will have an orange skin-dying effect. It is a formulator’s mastery of balance. Utilizing the maximum potency allowable by the skin to achieve the most dramatic results is set against not altering the skin’s natural color or complexion. It is important to note that sun exposure destroys carotenoids in Hippophae-based products, making them less effective.

• scar and wound healing

USE IN THE SPA

Hippophae berries are known for being nature’s exclusive source of the rare omega-7 fatty acid, which is why they are extensively used for their healing properties across Eastern Europe and Asia in burn victim clinics. The large volume of vitamin F oil-soluble fatty acids (comprising linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids, referring to omega-3 and omega-6) create a barrier for the skin, allowing the skin cells to reproduce and ultimately become smooth and even-textured.

I n c o r p o r at i ng p ro d u c t s r ic h i n Hippophae berry oil into spa treatments goes hand-in-hand with offering clients a wellness treatment that works from the outside in. It is a safe ingredient that can benefit most clients, whether as part of a signature antiaging facial treatment utilizing the agedefying actives, or for the breakoutprone client to improve and expedite the healing process of blemishes. With its powerful cell-repairing abilities, Hippophae effectively regenerates scar tissue, even minimizing and preventing mommy-to-be stretch marks.

While Hippophae can greatly enhance the efficacy of skin, body and hair care products, the powerful, rapid healing properties of the berries also make it an effective skin remedy after harsher treatments, such as chemical peels, dermabrasion, laser resurfacing and dermal needling. A signature Hippophae-rich facial treatment typically ranges from $85 to $150 for a 60-minute session and can be done to smoothen fine lines and wrinkles, repair breakout-prone skin or simply transform the skin’s vitality and tone, revealing a radiant complexion.

With all the vitamins, acids, omegas, flavonoids and minerals contained in Hippophae berries, consider concluding your clients’ next transformational skin and body wellness treatment with a relaxing, health- promoting cup of Hippophae tea! 

Vic toria Tabak, MBA, is a licensed esthetician in two states and president of Nature Pure Labs. She began her involvement in the beauty industry early in life and now has more than 18 years of experience along with a master’s degree in business, minoring in chemistry. For more than a decade, she has taught classes on emerging breakthroughs in the anti-aging skin care industry.

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POPPING

SHiNE

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T

he inspiration for thousands of love songs, the windows to the soul, the first thing others notice: bright, sparkling eyes can draw admiring looks and brighten the whole face. Our eyes radiate the beauty inside of us and allow us to take in the beauty around us.

by Raquel Levy

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EYE MASSAGE Gentle massaging of the eye increases blood circulation, removing all signs of tiredness and adding that much-needed spark. With organic massage oil, gently massage the inner and outer corners of the each eye, the center of the eyebrow and the under eye area. Instruct the client to repeat this daily for a dramatic difference.

At Kohler Waters Spa in Kohler, Wis., a cool stone eye massage is used to enhance signature facials, wraps and the Citrus Reviver treatment (50 minutes for $170, $195 on Saturday). Cooler elements like the stones are used in contrast with a warm Vichy shower and aromatherapy scents like grapefruit, clementine and lime. “Typically an anti-aging or rejuvenating eye cream is placed around the eye first with fingertips and then we use the cool stone for massage,” explains Kelly Hawe, esthetics spa lead. “The benefits of that, besides hydration, are the diminishing of dark circles, reduction of puffiness and it also helps to push along any fluid retention in the area.”

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MICRODERMABRASION THE NEXT GENERATION

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YOGA for EYES Much like working out the body, exercises for the eye can maintain or renew their inner sparkle. Instruct your client on these simple exercises and advise them to take the techniques home, especially if they spend much time in front of screens or straining their eyes. Yoga for eyes includes exercises like: o Move a pen or pencil vertically and horizontally in front of eyes, focusing only on the object. Repeat daily for 10-15 minutes. o Rub the palms together until warm and place them over eyelids until the eye has absorbed the warmth, usually a few minutes. Keep the eyes closed. o Shut the eyes and squeeze them tightly, then open them quickly and as wide as possible. Repeat until the eyes begin to water. o Blink very quickly about 10 times, then close the eyes and relax for 20 seconds. Repeat five times.

Getting proper sunlight exposure and adequate sleep are also vital lifestyle habits to keep eyes bright and healthy.

Raquel Levy is the editorial associate at Les Nouvelles EsthÊtiques & Spa. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communications with an emphasis in writing and editing. Levy has been a lifestyle and feature writer for more than five years. Contact her at raquel@lneonline.com.

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ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

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Energizing aromas hydrate and nourish while cleansing away makeup, excess sebum and other surface impurities, leaving skin radiant and soft, yet never greasy.

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rock the new options Transform any spa or massage experience with ZENZ’s Soapstone Massage Stones. Soapstone’s superior thermal quality meets easy to hold cylinders with patented angles and patented toe/finger stones.

Soapstone Massage Stones are ideal for enhancing massages such as signature, hot stone, sports and deep tissue as well as facials, reflexology, body treatments, manicures and pedicures!

ANCIENT SECRET UNVEILED An effective deodorant that adapts to the body’s own chemistry, Sensitive Planet’s Scent of Samadhi Deodorant creates a fragrance of inspiration, bliss, optimism and calm. Scent of Samadhi is an ancient, all-natural, herbal perfume powder used by the yogis of South India. It is ideal for yoga, meditation, body work and experiencing the simple joys in life.

Worn and appreciated by both women and men, this intoxicating natural fragrance is unique to the wearer and inspires a sense of true wellness.

310.451.7377 sensitiveplanet.com

UNCOMPLICATED COMPLEXION CORRECTION Infused with alpha hydroxy acids, ilike organic skin care’s Botanical AHA Peel results in a brighter, smoother and more youthful complexion. Hollyhock moisturizes as lactic acid eliminates dead skin cells, dirt, oil and other impurities.

Lemon oil acts as a natural astringent to minimize large pores and reduce excess shine. This peel is also formulated to combat hyperpigmentation, acne, prevent breakouts and fade sun damage.

It also helps reverse the signs of aging and reduce superficial lines and dilated pores, resulting in a naturally younger, brighter and healthier complexion.

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844.GETZENZ (438.9369) zenzmassagestones.com

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

Dallas, TX MAY 15 & 16, 2016 Arlington Convention Center

The Must-Attend Skin Care and Spa Professional Conference

Main Stage Lectures & Demos Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Medspa Conference Wellness Conference

Image Conference Spa Decor Conference Career Conference Product Focused Training Networking Opportunities Hundreds of Exhibitors

PRESENTED BY:

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USA: 305.443.2322

FAX: 305.443.1664 LNEonline.com

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Let’s Talk Makeup

Lisa LoConte Hills, Director of Retail, Makeup and Guest Relations at G2O Spa + Salon in Boston, Mass.

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artists have always been professional, customer-service oriented, intelligent, articulate and of course talented artists.

Where is the makeup area located?

Our makeup is in the retail area of our salon and spa. We have four floors and the retail area is on the first floor, about one fourth of that space. It is visible as soon as you walk through our lobby door. Our makeup artist is so great at greeting everyone and answering any questions, from product lines and services to directions around the spa. There’s no question that we do makeup and that it’s an important part of our business.

We had makeup from the time we opened our doors more than 20 years ago. We always wanted to have a true full-service salon and day spa, and that included makeup.

How and why did you do it?

We were the first true “day spa” in Boston and wanted to be a complete one-stop-shop for all of our clients’ beauty and wellness needs. We researched makeup lines, tried a few out and decided to go with one that best suited our needs.

How did you select makeup artists?

We look for artists who are passionate about their craft and love the entire industry, not just makeup. Our chosen brand is all about education, so our artist is very good at recommending both makeup and esthetic services. Instead of a hard sell, we combat our clients’ beauty troubles with education. Our makeup

Definitely our wedding packages. We offer complete hair and makeup the day of the wedding and nails the day before.

We can accommodate whole groups, including the wedding party and mother of the bride and groom.

Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment?

Why did you choose that location?

Yes, all of our estheticians and stylists are trained to promote complimentary touch-ups after their services. We all support each other in so many ways, its second nature, but it’s mostly about the client. We want the client to feel good when they leave and experience something new.

We wanted to highlight the service and product line, as it is one of our most successful retail lines.

How did you choose your makeup lines?

What kind of makeup treatments do you offer on the menu?

When did you decide to implement makeup into your spa?

What makeup services have the most success?

We offer makeup applications, wedding day makeup for brides and bridal parties, makeup lessons and complimentary touch-ups after services. Our makeup lessons allow for a full hour with our educated makeup artists.

How do you promote your makeup services?

We have bridal packages that we offer in-house and on our website, all of our services are on our website and in-house menu as well. And we have specials from time to time promoting the department that go out in our monthly newsletters.

When our brand releases new colors or a seasonal collection, our makeup artist calls our most interested clients and personally invites them to come look, touch and experiment with the new products.

How popular are your makeup services?

Very popular, especially wedding packages and touch-ups. After a good service, clients feel beautiful and they want to enhance that, they want to feel beautiful all over. Our estheticians always suggest makeup services after a treatment and I estimate about 90 percent of our clients who receive a makeup service purchase some makeup to take home.

We look for high-quality, trendy lines.

But we also look for lines that have a wide variety of colors and products, as well as companies that advertise and are well known in the industry.

Do you have special promotions for makeup?

We have monthly specials and often include makeup. For instance, a few months ago we offered make up lessons (60 minutes, $85) but the $85 cost of the service went towards makeup purchases. This was very popular as the line we carry is all about instructional applications.

How profitable are makeup services, AND Where does makeup rank in your spa revenue composition?

It is actually one of our most profitable departments, as our artists are not paid for individual services but with hourly rates and a commission on makeup sales. Profit-wise, our makeup retail is actually number one of all the lines we carry. 

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GRACE

by Mary Van

M

akeup application on an aging woman can be a double-edged sword. When applied correctly, it can make her look fresh and youthful.

However, if applied too heavily or with a dated technique, it can add years to her appearance.

Just in time to prepare your makeup specials for Mother’s Day this month, it’s essential to learn techniques to keep your mature clients looking and feeling beautiful.

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COMPLEXION Conceal ― Aging skin typically has various undertones that must be evened out. Mineral makeup works best on rosacea, or skin that is red. Stipple minerals over the affected area using a synthetic brush and apply light layers until the red tones have diminished. The heat from rosacea skin “grabs” the minerals, giving the foundation long-lasting wear.

Brush a minimal amount onto the unaffected areas to even the complexion. If the skin has hyperpigmentation, apply a concealer the same tone as the skin to these areas and blend out the edges until it goes unnoticed. Apply a foundation and set with mineral powder.

Foundation — When selecting foundation, consider the color of the face, neck and décolleté. It is important that the foundation balances the undertones and creates harmony.

When in doubt, choose a color that’s slightly darker, rather than lighter, so it warms the skin. Going too light can make the skin look flat.

Keep the foundation application light and dewy for dry skin. A sheer liquid or BB crème gives a glow to mature skin.

Set with a light dusting of mineral makeup before applying color to ensure long-lasting wear.

For oily skin, start with a mattifying product to tone down shine. Be careful with traditional powder, which sometimes contains talc. Talc can fill lines and make the skin appear even older. Instead, try a light dusting of mineral makeup as a foundation or to set a liquid product.

Enhance ―

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Blush — Brush sparingly up along the cheekbone, using the center of the eye as a guide for the starting point. This sweep gives the illusion of pulling the face upward, creating a slimming effect. Applying the blush too far below the cheekbone pulls the face down. A soft pink or coral gives a pop of soft color and brightens the face.

Bronzers, Contouring and Highlighting — Be careful with bronzers and contouring, they can end up looking muddy and dull on aging skin. A highlighter with a cool or pink undertone typically works best for very fair skin and a highlighter with a peachy or golden glow is great for medium to dark skin.

Use highlighting products that add a glow rather than a sparkle, staying away from facial lines. When used correctly, highlighting products can have a softening effect, blurring flaws and diffusing light to make the skin look youthful.

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EYES Conceal ― Choose a concealer that either matches the skin tone or is half a shade lighter. When concealer is too light, it accents the lines around the eyes. If the undereye circles are dark, a yellow or peach concealer neutralizes the purple undertones and brightens the eyes.

Use a synthetic brush to apply a small amount of concealer only to the dark areas of the eyes. Before eyeshadow, apply a primer to the eyelid to conceal discoloration from thinning skin.

―TIP― Avoid brown on the eyelid, as it tends to make older faces look tired.

Reach for soft plums, lilac, coral, taupe and shades of blue. Do not use shimmer on the eyelid or crease unless the eye is wrinkle free. To lift the eye, apply a shimmer highlight under the brow along the arch on the inside of the eyebrow.

Enhance ― Hooded Eyes — When applying eyeshadow to an eyelid where the skin is loose and wrinkled, select a color close to the client’s skin tone. Use color on the outside of the eye in a triangular shape to lift the eye and draw attention away from the aging skin.

Eyeliner — Keep the line on the upper lid close to the lash line so it appears to be an extension of the lashes, being careful not to make the line too thick, as this can be aging. For a youthful eye, apply liner to both the upper and lower lash line, and connect the lines at the outer corner of the eye.

Liner under the lash line should be soft

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and blended. Blend with a small, firm brush dusted with a shadow to keep liner from traveling.

Brows — A defined brow gives a youthful lift to any eye, especially an aging one. Do not tweeze gray hair, rather brush on a color close to the natural tone or use a colored brow gel to help hide the gray. If brows are unruly, set them with brow gel or hair

spray. If brows are thin, reshape and define them using a powder the same tone as the brow color. Keep brows softly defined by blending the brow color and setting color with a brow gel.

Brow colors should be the same shade as the hair. For blonde hair, match the roots; for silver or white hair, go for a

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Enter the

Step-by-Step Drawing!

Visit LNEONLINE.com for an exclusive look into a step-by-step treatment and a chance to win This month:

3D Brows with Permanent Makeup $250.00 in Beau Permanent Makeup supplies or $500.00 credit towards a Permanent Makeup Primary Course

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soft gray tone and try a mahogany or sable for brunettes or redheads.

Lashes — If the lashes are straight, curl them to lift the eyes and make them appear more youthful. To apply mascara, wiggle the spoolie back and forth from the roots to the tips for maximum coverage, separation and length. Be sure the mascara is fresh so it glides on the lashes; dry mascara does not coat evenly and clumps.

LIPS Conceal ― Along with thinning, lips tend to be drier and wrinkle with age. These individual concerns need to be taken into consideration when choosing and applying lip products.

Color Selection — Teeth look less white as we age. If the teeth have yellowed, stay away from lipsticks or gloss with yellow or orange undertones. Pinks, soft plums, reds and colors with blue undertones are more favorable on mature women.

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Enhance ― Lip Liner — After lining outer lips, use the liner to fill in the lips. This helps the lipstick and gloss stay on longer and keeps it from bleeding into fine lines. Choose a lip liner that is close to the natural color of the lip. Do not use a liner darker than the lipstick, this dated method adds years to the look.

Lipstick or Lip Gloss — If lips are dry, apply a lip moisturizer five to 10 minutes before applying color products. Unless lips are in great condition, stay away from shimmer.

It can get caught in the fine lines, making the lips appear older and drier than they are. Dark shades can also be aging and make the lips appear thinner. Opt for a lip gloss or sheer hydrating lipstick if your client

insists on a dark color. Matte lipsticks are also not easy for a mature woman to wear, as they look flat on the lips.

It is not always in your client’s best interest to go with the latest trends!

Most impor tantly, encourage clients to take care of themselves from the inside out. Proper diet, rest and exercise have a significant impact on overall health. It is never too late to start taking the right steps to a healthier lifestyle.

No amount of cream, lotions or potions outweigh the benefits of staying hydrated, eating nourishing foods and protecting skin from the sun, free radicals and pollutants w e a r e e x p o s e d t o e v e r y d ay.

Encourage a customized skin care regimen that addresses your client’s unique concerns and treats her as an individual. Try setting aside a couple

minutes at the beginning of the session to find out what her greatest concerns and favorite features are (it might not be what you assume).

There is no one size fits all option when it comes to makeup, regardless of age. 

Mary Van, the founder and CEO of Mineralogie, is a nationally renowned makeup artist and mineral makeup pioneer. Van launched the line in 2003 as a division of her parent company, Demaur Cosmetics. She serves as CEO and president of both companies, and is the handson creator, inspiration and quality assurance behind each new signature product and custom color.

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Vitamin C Essentials for smooth, radiant skin

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Visit us at ICES Dallas #121 for a product demonstration and receive a free 21 day trial kit!

REPAIR. REPLENISH. RENEW. |

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“Inspired by Nature... realized by Science.”

LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce .co m

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Blending

Past

Future T R E N D S In the world of makeup, an interesting shift is occurring as we move into summer, echoing the ever popular 1980s trilogy “Back to the Future�.

But much like the Nike sneakers on Marty McFly’s time-traveling feet, lines have blurred and it seems uncertain whether we are trending toward the future or the past. With movements that reflect both looks from former decades and those that are more futuristic, the times behind the trends are now more difficult to identify. So grab your spacesuit, hold on to your bloomers and prepare to get lost in the space-time continuum!

by Amy Mallon

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EYE BELIEVE  Wrinkles   Deep Moisture   Thin Skin   Sensitivity   Dark Circles   Expression Lines  Visit our Show Booths: Dallas ICES # 300 Orlando Premiere Las Vegas IECSC #832

UNDER-EYE BAGS Leave your bags behind with our eye messenger peptides.

Improve fine lines, thin skin and decongest sinus puffiness.

EYE LIFT Night time mini eye peel and lift. Contour and resurface fine lines and texture.

DARK CIRCLES

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Brighten, lighten, smooth with Vitamin K plus peptides for a restful, youthful look.

Mag-C collagen eye hydration.

Plump and soothe sensitive eyes.

Use daily, alone or on top of Bagless or Circle Out Eye Gel.

Professionals register online to view special starter kits and partner with Dermaware today! medical and spa

professionals register now www.dermaware.com/ professional

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Ami Mallon is a licensed esthetician and makeup artist. She has worked closely with top spas, medical spas, dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Mallon previously served as the Director of Education for Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare and as a national makeup artist and skin

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SUMMER LOVIN’

Topping off all the trends for summer 2016 are the lips, which are taking makeup looks from the past to infinity and beyond this season!

care educator for gloProfessional. Now a freelance artist, she uses her passion and knowledge of skin and cosmetics to educate her clients, creatively and professionally.

Biomani Advanced Medical Aesthetics & Laser Certification Institute Fathi G Fam, MD. MS. 855.238.8333 Medical Aesthetics Certification:

www.medicalaestheticscertification.com

Our program integrates aesthetics with para-medical knowledge and prepares aestheticians, cosmetologists and nurses to perform advanced and up-to-date skin care techniques. The classes are small and the hands-on is one-on-one on live models. The program is carried out on scientific, no-nonsense advanced and up-to-date aesthetics knowledge and techniques.

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As of May,2015 you earn free 4 hrs of CE for renewal of your cosmetology license (TX only) by attending the class.

Laser Certification Program:

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The program teaches Laser science in depth to certify our students to practice laser skin techniques and modalities safely and precisely. Our classes are small to make sure each student is capturing the knowledge he/she needs to perform laser techniques and procedures and allowing them to achieve their goal in their new career. Our program certifies you as LSO which is included in the tuition.

Biomani SkinCare products are the vital difference that brings your skin to life. They provide the latest, most advanced therapeutic ingredients for the protection of skin against the effects of time and environment. Biomani advanced bio-formulation smoothes fine lines, hydrates and rejuvenates with a touch that stays deep in the skin. The results are impressive, younger-looking skin with visible renewed texture and an after glow that lasts. Try Biomani today and you will receive compliments galore. www.biomaniskincare.com

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THE NEW DEFINITION OF EYEBROW-ING Brow Design International, with studios in New York and Houston, offers Eyebrow Microblading services and trainings. This advanced form of permanent makeup is changing peoples’ lives by creating beautiful, realistic brows that excite practitioners and clients alike.

Using a hand tool to deposit pigment, microblading, also known as microstroking or embroidery, allows the artist to create fine, crisp and natural brow strokes.

281.898.8744 browdesign.com

FABULOUSLY FUNCTIONAL Welcome to the versatile world of creamy, softfeeling makeup for moist or dry application with Kryolan’s Dual Finish Palette: Silhouette. In dry form, this preparation is similar to cream powder and is effective in lightly tinting and shading the skin.

Moist application enables greater covering quality and color intensity on the skin. Dual Finish can be gently removed effortlessly with soap and water.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

This exclusive formula is best applied dry and followed by a moist latex sponge setting and finish for perfect foundation application.

VOLUPTUOUS COLOR Experience true plumping power with six new irresistible colors of Grande Naturals’ GrandeLIPS: Barely There Nude, Pale Rose, Hot Fuchsia, Sunset Orange, Lust Red and Midnight Purple. This line of hydrating lip plumpers uses the power of its carefully blended formula containing volulipTM, marine peptides, hyaluronic acid and instaplump.

Target and hydrate dry areas while improving the appearance of lips in just 3-5 minutes.

877.835.3010 grandelashmd.com

START WITH A CLEAN SLATE This gentle, skin-renewing body masque from Infinity Sun polishes and exfoliates with the natural, non-abrasive pineapple fruit enzyme, bromelain. Infinity Exfoliating Body Masque removes non-vital skin cells at the end of their life cycle along the surface of the skin, leaving only young, healthy cells to exhibit a flawless, long-lasting tan.

This innovative masque is less abrasive than other exfoliants, making it optimal for sunless tanning.

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800.KRYOLAN (800.579.6526) us.kryolan.com

323.782.1049 shop.infinitysun.com

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ADVERTISER INDEX Reader Service No.

Page Number

118............. Agera Labs............................................................. ageralabs.com................................................................ 221 101............. Altair Instruments................................................... altairinstruments.com...................................................... 243 125............. Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com.......................................................... 162 87............... Avery Graham......................................................... averygraham.com........................................................... 355 50............... Beau Institute.......................................................... beauinstitute.com........................................................... 167 27............... Bella Schneider Beauty.......................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com.............................................. 180 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com....................................................... 139 127............. Biomani .................................................................. biomani.com................................................................... 276 51............... Booker.................................................................... booker.com/lne............................................................... 154 23............... Decleor................................................................... decleorusa.com.............................................................. 257 123............. Dermaware............................................................. dermaware.com.............................................................. 256 95............... Divi International ................................................... anesibeaute.com / depileveusa.com............................... 241 117............. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc.................................... dr-jeff.com...................................................................... 248 2, 3............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com................................................... 157 113............. Equipro USA........................................................... equipro-bty.com............................................................. 242 105............. Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com............................................................. 303 12,13,85..... Grandelash-MD...................................................... grandelash-md.com........................................................ 286 4, 5............. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com........................................................... 201 49, 55......... Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 106, 107..... Int’ Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas............ dallas.skincareshows.com 88, 89......... Int’ Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach... longbeach.skincareshows.com 131............. Jojoba Company ................................................... jojobacompany.com........................................................ 108 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics........ ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 93............... Le Mieux................................................................. lemieuxcosmetics.com.................................................... 294 119............. Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................. lucrece.com.................................................................... 263 132............. Nelly Devuyst / Derme & Co.................................. derme.ca........................................................................ 124 29............... Nouveau Contour................................................... nouveaucontourusa.com................................................. 186 115............. PFB Vanish.............................................................. pfbvanish.com................................................................. 229 129............. Premiere Dayspa Shows......................................... premiereshows.com........................................................ 194 35............... RapidLash............................................................... rapidlash.com................................................................. 224 44, 45......... RéjuvaSea............................................................... rejuvasea.com................................................................. 246 103............. Rejuvi Laboratory................................................... rejuvilab.com.................................................................. 149 36, 37......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 81............... Revitalash................................................................ revitalash.com................................................................. 346 18............... Saian....................................................................... saian.net......................................................................... 165 19............... Satin Smooth.......................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................. 304 112............. Select Spa Source / Hairaway................................. selectspa.com................................................................. 253 26............... Skin for Life............................................................. skinforlife.com................................................................. 156 53............... TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 50............... To Go Spa............................................................... togospa.com................................................................... 285 11............... Vital Assist.............................................................. vitalassist.com................................................................. 237 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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They know our jojoba is absolutely pure; it has no fillers, additives or preservatives. And, it’s incredibly versatile. Use our Jojoba for: • removing make-up, facial massage, and deep-cleansing the skin • all massage modalities requiring direct contact with the skin • revitalizing hair and scalp • enriching the skin after a shower or bath • providing soothing relief from psoriasis • conditioning and softening cuticles • soothing skin after exposure to the sun • blending essential oils (our website has many useful recipes)

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