LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals September 2015
$7.50
A DV E RT I S E M E N T
ASK THE EXPERT:
Experience the New VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels by Éminence Q&A
Lisa Wensley LICENSED ESTHETICIAN
How does this product enhance the results from using the existing VitaSkin™ products?
What sets the VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels apart from other peels in the industry?
Using the Éminence VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels will
Éminence took the simplicity of an already existing,
accelerate the results you have achieved with the Firm,
custom designed VitaSkin™ solution and made it easy
Bright, Calm, and Clear VitaSkin™ solutions. Your
for the esthetician and consumer to categorize based
skin may have plateaued and need a bit more from the
on skin type. These Firm, Bright, Calm, and Clear
existing ingredients that have been clinically proven to
VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels were formulated on the
work. Using this product is an effective way to exfoliate
success of the results-oriented ingredients that our
the skin through a consistent routine at home and
body recognizes and is able to utilize without going
when combined with professional treatments, you’ll
in and altering cellular function.
see better results than ever before.
What are the benefits of peeling “the natural way” with all-natural ingredients?
This doesn’t actually “peel” my skin – how do I know it’s working? You don’t need to see the peeling or exfoliation to know the ingredients are working. Every skin type has
Using natural ingredients to topically treat the skin
a varying degree of thickness, causing every person
has already been clinically proven within the Éminence
to react differently to skin care ingredients. One
VitaSkin™ solutions. The VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels
may feel the peel more during certain seasons of the
contain naturally occurring acids that offer superior
year, or experience the sensation differently based
re-texturizing, resurfacing, brightening, calming and
on medications, hormones, treatments and/or other
antibacterial results. They offer a gentle, effective
products they’ve used previously. Peels will typically
way to lightly exfoliate the skin on a consistent basis
have a tightening effect over the course of a few days,
without causing any downtime. Nature and science
and may also show signs of redness and flaking during
come together to create beautifying results!
this time, which is normal as the cells rapidly turn over. Keeping your skin cool and giving it time to adjust will give you the best desired results.
Introducing Results-Oriented Exfoliating Peels for Every Skin Type
F I R M SKI N AC AI EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Aging Skin
B R IGHT SKI N LICOR ICE ROOT EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Hyperpigmented Skin
C ALM SKI N CHAMOM I LE EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Sensitive Skin
CLEAR SKI N WI LLOW BAR K EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Acne Prone Skin
If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic® skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.
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SEPTEMBER 2015
V o lume 30
Number 9
CONTENTS SKIN
ORGANIC & WELLNESS 10 18 24
Double Duty Miracle From The Bronze Age Skin News
Miracle From The Bronze Age
Rising From The Ashes 104 Clearing Energy 112 Organic & Wellness News 118
Rising From The Ashes page 104
page 18
EXFOLIATION GUIDE Roadmap To Results 68 Scrape It Off! 74 Fresh Face Forward 78 Enhancing Exfoliation With Electronics 84 Cutting-Edge Trends in Exfoliation 88 Exfoliate Exfoliate Photo Feature 96
Exfoliation Guide page 67
SPA 28 38 50
Spa of the Month Renew With Bamboo Spa News
Let’s Get Real page 122
IMAGE Let’s Talk Makeup With Jane Terry Let’s Get Real Image News
120 122 128
EXTRAS From the Editor 6 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach Preview 26 Advertiser Index 130
BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Stella Beyder Marketing Brilliance Step It Up! Business News
52 54 58 66
Cover Courtesy of Bobbi Brown
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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from the
editor
September is here, marking the start of a new educational season for our industry with the renowned annual International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach, returning to the Long Beach Convention Center on September 20-21! Let our latest innovative educational program be your source of inspiration to take your business to the next level! Get a glimpse of the cutting-edge topics being presented at the latest lineup of the dynamic congress in this very issue! Check out “Double Duty” (page 10), “Miracle From the Bronze Age” (page 18), “Renew With Bamboo” (page 38) and “Clearing Energy” (page 112). To help you reveal your clients’ most radiant complexions, you’ll find everything you need to know in our Exfoliation Guide (page 67), from innovative treatment Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card
options to customizing exfoliation services for your
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clients.
wet/dry
microdermabrasion
Check out these topics and much more in Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s first autumn issue of 2015! I hope you all had a fantastic summer season, and I look forward to seeing you this month in Long Beach!
with 4 manually applied solutions
september 2015
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—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com
Success Education • Equipment • Products
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BT will be with you every step of the way.
REV080515
bio-therapeutic.com | 800.971.6259 LNEonline.com | september 2015 | 7
3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com email: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@lneonline.com Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@lneonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@lneonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@lneonline.com
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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
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ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato
C ontr ibutors
Visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Long Beach, CA: Booth 626
september 2015
Rose Marie Beauchemin
Lindsay Cuker
Melanie Sachs
Linda Bertaut
Patricia Faley
Dori Soukup
Beth Bialko
Carrie Garman
David Suzuki
Caroline Canetti
Rachel Davita Harris
Tina Zillmann
Nathalie Cecilia
Laetitia Longuefosse Printed with 100% soy-based ink.
This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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See Tina Zillmann speak live this month at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015!
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double
duty L AY ERI NG Y O U R
peel treatments F OR maximum results by Tina Zillmann
A
fter months of fun under the sun, clients
measurement depends on the formulation
come to the spa to improve their skin
of the peel and the applications performed.
tone, texture and radiance. Chemical peels are
Medium-depth peels, such as Jessner’s, can
an economical way to achieve these rejuvenat-
span into the papillary dermis and encourage
ing results at any time of year. The following
flushing and light frosting. Knowing the differ-
article addresses superficial peel solutions and
ence between superficial and medium-depth
medium-depth peels, and how to layer them
peels helps you operate within the scope of
for maximum results.
your license, and accurately assess how much
Superficial peel solutions are formulated to
downtime the client may experience. Deep
remove dead skin cells up to 0.06 mm (thick-
peels fall outside an esthetician’s scope of
ness equivalent to a fine strand of hair). This
practice.
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DOUBLE DUTY
WHY
layer peels? Layering chemical peel formulations can maximize the results of a
Essential signs that a client’s skin may already be over-exfoliated
peel treatment. Chemical peels come in a variety of formulations to
include the following:
help customize a treatment. Determine what skin issues your client suffers from to provide a service that improves skin health, while also addressing their individual aging concerns. The following issues can be helped with a layered treatment combination:
- fine lines - dehydration - age spots - thick skin - rough texture - hyperpigmentation - oily skin - acne - wrinkles
layering specifics Percentage, pH, and buffer are all taken into consideration in determining a peel combination. Generally, 15-30% standard salicylic and lactic solutions are optimal choices. Make sure you are familiar with the peel solutions you use, and monitor each client’s reaction to the treatment.
how many peels should be layered? Layering two unique peel solutions is very effective, and gives the client little to no downtime. Jessner’s and TCA peels are each single peel solutions. Although they can be applied in up to six layers, it’s advisable to stick to two layers to avoid increased downtime and risk of complication. While layering two peels is a highly effective way to rejuvenate the skin, sometimes the client’s skin will not tolerate a second layer of solution. The esthetician can determine this through the following observation: Rather than setting the timer on your peel solution, simply monitor the client’s skin.
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- excessive flushing - regional redness - increased warmth - tingling, burning, or itching sensations If any of these symptoms occur, don’t administer a second peel layer, and follow the peel manufacturer’s protocol for over-exfoliated skin.
While layering two peels is a highly effective way to rejuvenate the skin, sometimes the client’s skin will not tolerate a second layer of solution.
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SKIN
3. apply first layer and neutralize Apply a light and even layer of salicylic peel to the face, neck, and décolleté. Observe the client’s skin for flushing, frosting, or other
protocol 1. pre-peel consultation
reaction. Salicylic acid helps detach dead skin cells to immediately brighten the skin while stimulating cell proliferation, and activating fibroblasts.
4. apply second layer and neutralize 5. apply a light and even layer of lactic peel in the same manner. Lactic acid has a large molecular structure, and doesn’t penetrate as rapidly as a glycolic acid. In this
When qualifying a client for a peel procedure, perform
procedure, the lactic helps polish the skin surface. Neutralize the
a thorough consultation and skin assessment to de-
peel with caution as this second peel may increase sensitivity. Avoid
termine what skin issues your client suffers from, and
performing extractions.
provide a service targeted to your client’s individual skin issues. Essential pre-treatment forms alert you to
6. perform a light facial massage, then
any contraindications for a chemical peel, and ensure
apply a calming mask. Opt for a massage cream that is fragrance free
a beneficial outcome. Include the following points of
and suitable for sensitive skin. Avoid massaging clients with active
analysis and questions in your consultation:
acne breakouts. If the skin is sensitized, irritated, or over-exfoliated, do not massage or mask the skin. Apply a light layer of healing
- What signs of sun damage do you see in the skin? - Is dehydration a factor in this treatment? - Does the client’s skin feel thick or thin? - Is the client using a bleaching cream or retinoid? - How much sun exposure does the client receive in a day/week/ month?
- Do they have a special occasion coming up that will subject their
balm instead to help calm the skin and assist with rapid recovery.
7. apply a moisturizer suited to your client’s skin type 8. finish with sunscreen
skin to prolonged sun exposure? Finally, let the client know that they may experience light tingling, warmth, or flushing during the treatment.
2. cleanse, tone, and prepare peel
average treatment times and prices A layered peel service can be offered as a 30-minute express facial for a price range of $45-$70, or as a one hour treatment with mask
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Choose a cleanser and toner that best suit your client’s skin type. In
and light massage priced between $75 and $100. Treatments may
most cases, a formulation with salicylic acid works well because it
be administered four to six weeks apart. For heavily damaged, thick
reduces oil and enhances penetration of the peel solution. Massage
skin, a series of four to six treatments administered every two weeks
the cleanser over the face and down to the neck and décolleté for
may be performed with discretion. An appropriate price for this
a relaxing start to the facial treatment.
series is $300 for four treatments or about $450 for six treatments.
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| september AUGUST 2015 2015
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DOUBLE DUTY
A simple “pinch” test can help gauge the thickness of the client’s skin and determine if dehydration is a factor in the treatment. Resting your index fingers at the arch of each brow and thumbs at the hair-
- Hair removal cream or bleaching cream on the face - Facial waxing - Hair color, highlights, or perm services
line, give the forehead a slight pinch and release. Does it take long for the skin to bounce back? Is there a sheen from superficial dead skin cells? If so, you may be facing a combination of dehydration
good practices
and thinning skin. Layering chemical peel solutions removes dehydrated and dead skin cells to soften the appearance of wrinkles and folds while improving skin tone and texture.
post-peel home care instructions
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- Wash your face with a gentle cleanser - Moisturize and keep the skin hydrated - Wear sunscreen daily
Tina Zillmann is a practicing esthetician and licensed hair re-
24-48 hours post peel, clients should avoid:
moval professional with expertise on innovative esthetic treat-
- Prolonged sun exposure - Exercise and strenuous activities - Hot tub, jacuzzi, sauna - Exfoliating or lightening skin care products, scrubs, and retinols
ments and post-surgical care. She is vice president and director
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of Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc. and Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Zillman was a recipient of the Female Entrepreneur of the Year award through the National Association of Women Business Owners.
A D VA
NC ED
RE
VE
J
U
NA
TIN
G CO m NCEPTSt
advanCed rejuvenating ConCeptS Visit us at booth #624 in long be aCh, C alifornia join us for a 12:30 demonstration on how to combine and layer peels for maximum results-on the main Stage!
Tina Zillmann, LE, CLHRP
Learn more at aRCskinCare.com Call toll free 800 689-0499
founder of arC Skin Care
Simply revealing... brighter, radiant, even toned Skin with advanced rejuvenating Concepts layered peel protocol and lighten product range. • • • •
reduce the look of discolorations and dark spots improve skin clarity and radiance enhance resistance against future discolorations versatile formulations for the face and body
time-teSted benefitS: before and after patients noted improvements in skin tone and texture, and reduced breakouts, within a 4 week period using lighten products along with aesthetic peel treatments. learn more about our treatment plans and products at arCSkinCare.com.
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SKIN
See Melanie Sachs speak live this month at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015!
MIRACLE FROM THE
BRONZE AGE The magic of the kansa wand BY
MELANIE SACHS
What is Kansa? Kansa is the Indian name for bronze. It was
as “the healing metal”, with a reputation for
gestive, very similar in makeup to the skin’s
erasing pain and restoring vitality by simply
own sebum. Enriching oils and diluted es-
rubbing an area that hurts.
sential oil may be added to it when used
first made 5,000 years ago, in the Bronze
Today, kansa is being made into four dif-
Age, by blending copper, tin and small
ferent sizes of dome shaped massage tools,
amounts of zinc to create a fabulously strong
each with a wooden handle that’s comfort-
and shiny alloy. Kansa is not to be confused
able for the therapist. Kansa massage is
with brass, which is a combination of copper
being revived and integrated into both skin
Coconut oil is often used
and zinc. It’s a superb conductor of electric-
care and spa services with amazing results.
for kansa wand treatment of the
ity, including the subtle electrical charges on the skin. Hence, it has the capacity to rebalance and quickly restore the flow of energy
feet, and sunflower or sesame oil
Kansa Wand Product Pairings
in the meridians and chakras, balancing and
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on the face.
for the rest of the body. These too may be enriched and customized with essential oils or herbs. Massage lo-
revitalizing the body’s bio-electrical network.
Traditionally, kansa wands are used with
tions are not suitable for kansa mas-
Kansa has a phenomenal resonance, and
clarified butter, also known as ghee. Though
sage, as they get sticky or disappear
it resets and awakens a peaceful state of
ghee is a wonderful moisturizer for the com-
into the skin too quickly, and their pH
mind, similar to Tibetan gongs. It’s also very
plexion, few people today want butter on
can tarnish the metal. Use a gentle
smooth, but warms with just a few strokes
their face. Jojoba is a good alternative for
cleansing procedure before applying
to feel like a magically comforting hand.
the face massage. Though often called an
oil as you begin the massage.
Throughout the ages, kansa has been known
oil, jojoba is actually a wax that’s non con-
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Induce Systematic Cellular Turnover to Rejuvenate Enhance Epidermal & Dermal Thickening Target Hyperpigmentation at Source Attack Acne on All Levels & Maintain Clear Skin Improve Elasticity, Firmness, Wrinkles Control Inflammation & Skin Stressors Maintain Healthy Skin - Zero Downtime & Quick Results
BACK TO SCHOOL SPECIAL
Free Gift with Qualifying Purchase Expires 9.15.15
A+ PEPTIDES Age Control
C + ACID Pigment Control
PEPTIDE + B Age, Acne, Pigment, Rosacea
HYBRID ACID ENZYME Illuminating Age Control
Extraction & Massage
PEEL + MASK Pigment Control
Partner with DermAware® Bio-Targeted® Skin Care today. medical and spa
professionals register now www.dermaware.com/ professional
504-469-3500
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www.dermaware.com
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SKIN
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MIRACLE FROM THE BRONZE AGE
FACE MASSAGE TECHNIQUE This 10-minute sequence can be integrated into any facial. Start with the right side of the face, as each side carries different stories and tensions that are released more easily when done so one side at a time.
1
Make 30 clockwise circles in the middle of the forehead that gradually spiral out to fill
the whole forehead.
2
Zig-zag up and down the right side of the forehead. Allow the weight of the wand to
determine the pressure. It should glide easily, and never drag or pull.
3
Work back and forth over the ridge just above the eyebrow, applying more pressure on the
outward stroke, less on the inward stroke.
4 5
Massage 30 small clockwise circles at the hollow of the temple. Roll side of the kansa wand under the eye and over the cheekbone. Circle five times
around the eye counter clockwise, then five times clockwise. Again, apply slightly more pressure on the outward strokes than the inward strokes.
6 7
Circle clockwise around the cheekbone five times, then counterclockwise five times. Massage under the cheekbone gently, starting close to the nose and out toward the ear
and back.
8
Turn the client’s head very slightly, then circle 30 times around in front of the ear over the
jaw joint, and work gently back and forth between there and the corner of the mouth.
9 10
Work up and down the jawline five times. If the mantle of the skin is more acid, the oil may go a little grey or even black. This Circle clockwise mid-chin. Compare
is generally caused by prolonged use of acid based skin care or makeup, stress,
the right and left side and take in the
or by living or working in a polluted environment. Gentle cleansing is necessary
difference.
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before more oil or other products are applied.
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MIRACLE FROM THE BRONZE AGE
Cleaning the Kansa Wand
Benefits for the Face
Wipe the metal surface with a light paste
referred to it as Botox without needles).
made with the kaolin white clay, fresh water and a drop of tea tree oil. Then wipe the metal clean with a cold damp cloth. To energetically recharge and
----
Provides a gentle face lift (clients have Reduction in puffiness and the appearance
of wrinkles.
Pricing This 10-minute kansa wand massage technique can easily be offered as an add-on service to massage, spa therapy or aromatherapy treatments for $10 to $20. You can also offer
A deeper radiance and glow.
it as a complimentary add-on for the first
Instills a peaceful feeling in both client
time to introduce the benefits.
“clear” the kansa wand, hold the metal
and therapist, similar to that of meditating.
surface under cold running water or rub it
Produces a more youthful expression.
offered as a more complete service with other
Releases sinus pain and congestion.
techniques on the back, neck, shoulders,
Relieves pain and stress, especially around
scalp or feet. The rates should be equivalent
on clean green grass. To finish, follow state board regulations, wiping it clean with the designated metal cleaner. Rinse well afterward. Never heat this tool or use abrasive cleansers on the metal or handle. Throughout the ages, kansa
the eyes and jaw.
A kansa wand massage can also be
with typical massage rates in your area.
Promotes lymph drainage and increased
circulation.
Melanie Sachs, a certified Ayurvedic
Evens skin tone and reduces redness.
life counselor, healer and teacher, is
Pulls heat, acidity and toxicity from the
sought after by some of the world’s
skin.
leading spas and beauty schools.
has been known as “the healing
She has published “Ayurvedic Beauty Care”, and
metal”,, with a reputation for
As with any service, results and their duration
is recognized internationally for the application of
erasing pain and restoring
vary. Changes in your clients’ appearance
Ayurveda to the beauty world. Call her toll-free at
vitality by simply rubbing an
and reduction in pain and stress can last
866.303.3321 or phone/fax at 805.543.9291. Visit
area that hurts.
anywhere from days to weeks.
Sachs’ website at diamondwayayurveda.com.
Biomani Advanced Medical Aesthetics & Laser Certification Institute Fathi G Fam, MD. MS. 855.238.8333
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Medical Aesthetics Certification:
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www.medicalaestheticscertification.com
Our program integrates aesthetics with para-medical knowledge and prepares aestheticians, cosmetologists and nurses to perform advanced and up-to-date skin care techniques. The classes are small and the hands-on is one-on-one on live models. The program is carried out on scientific, no-nonsense advanced and up-to-date aesthetics knowledge and techniques. As of May,2015 you earn free 4 hrs of CE for renewal of your cosmetology license (TX only) by attending the class.
Laser Certification Program:
www.biomanilasercertificationinstitute.com
The program teaches Laser science in depth to certify our students to practice laser skin techniques and modalities safely and precisely. Our classes are small to make sure each student is capturing the knowledge he/she needs to perform laser techniques and procedures and allowing them to achieve their goal in their new career. Our program certifies you as LSO which is included in the tuition. Biomani SkinCare products are the vital difference that brings your skin to life. They provide the latest, most advanced therapeutic ingredients for the protection of skin against the effects of time and environment. Biomani advanced bio-formulation smoothes fine lines, hydrates and rejuvenates with a touch that stays deep in the skin. The results are impressive, younger-looking skin with visible renewed texture and an after glow that lasts. Try Biomani today and you will receive compliments galore. www.biomaniskincare.com
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CHOOSE YOUR STYLE
• CHOOSE YOUR COLOR
CHOOSE NEWAPEEL
From the makers of the Diamondtome crystal free microdermabrasion comes 3 new fantastic colors. You can choose: Majestic Bamboo, Nautical Blue, Zen Stone and of course our Classic. Pick the color that best fits your style. AESTHETIC EXFOLIATION WAS NEVER SO COLORFUL.
altairinstruments.com
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Refine and Shine Gommage Exfoliation Gel is a non-abrasive exfoliant, which effectively removes dead skin cells and impurities, and refines the skin’s texture without harming the delicate tissue. Formulated with nettle extract for its softening and stimulating effects, brightening lime oil and camphor oil, it leaves skin clean, hydrated and smooth.
800.883.5341 sonage.com
Smooth Operator Clearista® offers a patented solution for skin resurfacing that’s never existed before! Indicated for all skin types, this revolutionary formula helps enable increased hydration and complete skin re-texturizing. Clearista has been clinically shown to address brown spots, age and sun-related folding/wrinkling, rough “chicken skin” bumps on the face, arms, legs, and backside, and rough/dull patches.
SkinNews
Silver Bullet
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
The latest ground breaking facial treatment from Repêchage, Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Facial is made with micro-silver and antioxidants for hypersensitive skin and to help calm conditions such as rosacea (patent pending). The key is the incorporation of micro-silver, which has been proven to be anti-microbial, therefore reducing the bacteria in which microbes thrive.
800.248.SKIN repechage.com
Polished Peel This award-winning exfoliating gel uses natural papaya enzymes to gently remove dead cells and unclog pores instantly. While overuse of acid peels or harsh chemicals can irritate healthy, live skin cells, the ReNu Exfoliating Gel selectively removes dead cells to reveal toned, polished skin immediately after use.
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844.924.3537 ClearistaPro.com
888.977.3742 seshaskin.com |
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Natural Mineral Collection
FOR BEAUTIFUL, HEALTHY SKIN - FROM START TO FINISH!
BLISS
ENLIGHTEN MUSE Visit us at booths #312 & 314 rhondaallison.com | 866-313-SKIN (7546) LNEonline.com
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LNEONLINE.COM Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 26
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USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664
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THE TRENDSETTER OF WELLNESS & SPA
LONG BEACH, CA SEPT 20 & 21, 2015 AT THE LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER
INNOVATE. Main Stage Lectures and Demos Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Med Spa Business Conference Wellness Conference
Image Conference Spa DĂŠcor Conference AIA Conference Product Focused Training Exclusive Networking Hundreds of Exhibitors
PRESENTED BY
ENDORSED BY
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SPA
of the
MONTH THE SPA @
Virgin Hotels
C H I CAG O , I l l . by Laetitia Longuefosse
R
elaxation and beautifying rituals should make one feel more stunning, both inside
and out, without being too costly in terms of money or time. The brand new Spa at Virgin Hotel Chicago offers an oasis in the city where guests design their own experience, from the duration of their service to mixing and matching various aspects of the treatments, all for reasonable prices. At this social spa, guests are encouraged to mix and mingle with each other, have a glass of champagne and share a laugh with friends.
co n t i n u e s
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SPA OF THE MONTH
Facility Features
turned up. It’s the perfect place for people
The Spa at Virgin Hotels Chicago is located
who want to feel pampered but can’t dedi-
in a former bank president’s old office. The
cate multiple hours to the spa.
hotel was built as a bank in 1928. Many details of the office are still intact, and have been incorporated into the look of The Spa. A marble fireplace makes a standout feature.
Treatment Options
The Spa caters to this on-the-go demographic
There are five treatment rooms, including a
by offering 30-minute facial and massage op-
couples’ room. The Spa features a Hammam
tions in addition to the more extensive 60 and
a facial massage with a collagen renewing se-
for a small group of people, which includes
90 minute services. The following examples
rum. A warming, deep tissue massage with
men’s and women’s locker rooms. A central
are a sample of their noteworthy offerings.
cardamom amber oil releases muscle tension
manicure bar and space for pedicures is located at the entrance of The Spa, which is designed to be a social hangout.
- Fresh & Clean Facial ( 30 MINUTES, 55 . This $
)
deep cleanse purifies and nourishes the skin as it combats problems and breakouts by calming, disinfecting and detoxifying the skin.
The Clientele
The Spa is meant for the person on the go. The Spa doesn’t target a specific age and
30
“THE SPA FEATURES A HAMMAM FOR A SMALL GROUP OF PEOPLE, WHICH INCLUDES MEN’S AND WOMEN’S LOCKER ROOMS.”
- Hammam Detox 90 MINUTES, 175 . The body (
$
)
before healing hydration is sealed with shea butter, blended with tangerine and fig.
- Jet Lag Massage
( 60
MINUTES, $120 ). In this
twist on a Swedish massage, a cardamom amber oil is used to warm the muscles, increase circulation, and detoxify. This restorative ther-
is vigorously scrubbed with coffee, olive stones
apy promotes relaxation and recovery from a
gender, but rather a life mentality. Guests
and fresh lemons to tone and contour, then
long flight or night out. The right pressure is
visit The Spa for an affordable yet premium
wrapped in rich Moroccan rhassoul clay to
combined with a signature touch that feels
customized experience where the energy is
draw out deep impurities while client receives
perfect on heavy legs after flying.
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Beauty Science =
great skin
Axp33™ is a third-generation hexapeptide that
utilizes advanced peptide technology to help fight the effects of aging skin. Our groundbreaking formula combines with vitamin C to deliver the perfect balance of skin-enriching benefits that reduce the visible appearance of wrinkles, helps lighten the skin for a brighter complexion, and improves hydration for visibly smoother and firmer skin.
©2015 Professional Products Division. For more information on Satin Smooth products, visit our website: www.satinsmooth.com • 15LI015970
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SPA OF THE MONTH
MARKETING TECHNIQUES “THE SPA DOESN’T TARGET A SPECIFIC AGE AND GENDER, BUT
SOCIAL MEDIA
treatments, such as polish changes and
RATHER A LIFE MENTALITY.”
Social media brings excellent results and
foot massages, along with various products
fits the Spa’s philosophy. Instagram and
to take home. The Spa plans to establish
Staff Training
Twitter are utilized to promote different spa
a social calendar for future social events.
Training is key at The Spa. This includes tech-
concepts, such as events in the Hammam.
PROMOTIONS
nical training, customer service and corporate
The Spa did a special Behind The Red Door
The Spa offers a happy hour special at
culture. The Spa trains the team in general
music story telling blog, with Escort The
lunchtime to local businesses and apart-
operations, treatment protocol, guest interac-
Band providing a live acoustic performance
ment complexes. This special includes a
tion, product knowledge, and systems training.
in the Hammam.
30-minute treatment and lunch to go from
The Spa’s vendors assist in product knowledge
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services, design of the spa as well as fun
Miss Ricky’s, a classic American restaurant
training, and all team members participate in
SOCIAL EVENTS
Virgin Hotels’ new hire orientation. The spa
Local bloggers, Instagrammers and media
busy businessperson looking to squeeze in
manager and lead therapist conduct property
were invited to the grand opening of The
both a treatment and a meal pickup during
level training.
Spa, where they were treated to mini
their lunch break.
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in the hotel. This offering is aimed at the
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Visit blinc at ICES Long Beach - booth #931
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SPA OF THE MONTH
Retail
The retail area is mixed into the reception area and central manicure bar. Items are displayed behind the counter to create a conversation about the products the guests are using, and what they could be doing better for their skin and body. The Spa also keeps pleasant smelling retail items in the treatment rooms to prompt a
The Spa @ Virgin Hotels
conversation from the clients. There is currently
CHICAGO, Ill.
no makeup station, but one is planned for later this year, when The Spa will introduce blowout and makeup services.
Laetitia Longuefosse has lived in New York City since 1999. She was appointed Foreign Trade Advisor in France for her expertise in cosmetics. Longuefosse specializes in analyzing the differences and similarities between beauty perceptions in the United States versus Europe. She holds a degree from Institut de Sciences Politiques, where she graduated with honors, as well as a master’s degree in marketing and communication from Ecole SupÊrieure de Commerce Toulouse in France.
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Launched: June 4, 2015 Spa Manager: Nicole Jeffries
Staff 16 team members, including one lead therapist, 10 therapists, two attendants and three coordinators.
Product Lines Used and Retailed Red Flower, emerginC, Supergoop, Clarisonic
Client Ratio 50 percent hotel guests / 50 percent locals
203 North Wabash Avenue, Chicago, Ill. 60601 VIRGINHOTELS.COM
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35
99%
saw visible difference in their skin after one Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Facial with Micro Silver (patent pending)
92%
saw less irritation after using the Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Calming Cleanser (patent pending)
89%
saw smoother skin after using the Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Serum (patent pending)
DOCTOR TESTED.* CLEAR RESULTS.** *Tests conducted by licensed esthetician under doctor supervision
**Client evaluation and reaction after 28 days of at-home usage *DERMATOLOGIST TESTED
Ag+ Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #196 on reader service card
ISO
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RENEW W I T H
BAMBOO ADD MAGIC TO YOUR MASSAGE TREATMENTS
by Nathalie Cecilia
D
oes your massage menu need something
offered as a standalone treatment, or incorporated
fresh and unique? If you’re looking for a new
into a traditional massage to address trigger points
massage modality to add to your lineup, full body
or neuromuscular work. Warm bamboo sticks can
bamboo massage can bring valuable diversity to
both strengthen the therapeutic benefits of mas-
your options! A bamboo massage protocol can be
sage and make the therapist’s job easier.
See Nathalie Cecilia speak live this month at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015!
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SPA
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RENEW WITH BAMBOO
BAMBOO MASSAGE PROTOCOL
1
As you complete a consultation with the client, warm the bamboo sticks in the heating pad. The client should be
fully draped in a prone position on the massage table, and undraped only on the areas where the therapist is working. Apply a small amount of oil to skin as you move through the routine.
2
Using the two tapotement sticks to stimulate circulation, gently tap the entire back of the body through the drap-
ing from the shoulders to the soles of the feet. The rhythmic vibration will prepare the body for a deep state of relaxation.
To warm the bamboo,
3
Use the large stick to work the upper traps (kneading and
pivoting) to relax the shoulders.
insert the heating pad into a clean pillowcase. Place the bamboo sticks in one side of the pad at an angle and fold in half so the sticks are nestled inside. Adjust the heating pad control to de-
4
sired temperature (approximateUse the end of the short full stick
ly 120-150 degrees). The bam-
in a press-twist-release mo-
boo should feel warm to touch.
tion, working around the edges of the
The heat can be adjusted easily
scapulae and down the erector spinae.
on a heating pad with the digi-
Guide the stick with the non-working
tal control. To cool sticks down,
hand. Work slowly and allow the bamboo
apply extra lubricant or leave the
to be an extension of your hands.
heating pad open.
5
Use two warm half-cuts held in the palms to perform long gliding effleurage strokes on the entire back. The rounded
side should be on the client’s skin and the flat part in your palm.
6
With the large stick, knead the entire back. Work slowly, kneading the muscles, and allow your wrists
to rock slowly and the bamboo to sink into the muscles.
7
Move to the lower body and perform a circular motion with the two half cuts on the calf and hamstrings to warm the muscles.
Remember to work slowly. Then use the large stick to knead and roll the same muscles. You can also roll over the glutes and do a gently rocking movement through the draping to work the piriformis muscle.
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SPA
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RENEW WITH BAMBOO
BAMBOO MASSAGE PROTOCOL
8
Using the short full stick, perform twisting and pressing on the entire sole of the foot. Be creative with the feet. You
can also roll the bamboo down the sole and do a gentle tapping.
9
Fully drape the body. Using the 2 tapotement sticks with the cloth wraps, perform tapping on the entire posterior side of the body from the shoul-
ders to the feet. The tapping should be firm to help wake your client up, so that they can turn over and you can start working the anterior side of the body.
10
With the 2 half cuts (one in each hand, with rounded side on client’s skin), gently work the décolleté area with small
circular motions, moving down to the deltoids and upper arms.
11
Remove the cloth from one of the tapotement sticks. Slide the bamboo under the neck to apply a gen-
tle traction with the stick positioned at the client’s occiput. Hold the stretch for one minute and then gently release.
12
Use long gliding strokes on the arms using one half cut. Glide very lightly over joints and focus on the muscles. Use
the rounded tip of the half cut for work specifically on the forearms.
13 14
Use the short full stick with a press-twistrelease motion in the palm of the hand.
Using the two half cuts, warm the entire anterior leg, and glide gently around the knee.
15
Using the large full stick, perform kneading/rolling strokes on the quads and a pivoting stroke along the IT band and lateral
side of the lower leg. Make sure the knees are supported by a bolster or pillow. Work slowly and allow the bamboo to sink into the tissue. Gently glide the bamboo off the lower leg. That concludes your session!
16
Disinfect all the bamboo sticks with anti-bacterial wipes that are safe for hands and face to ensure proper sanitation for next client. Change the
pillowcase on the heating pad, massage table linens and cloth tapotement wraps.
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CHAMPAGNE & ROSES ANTI-AGING • CELL RENEWAL • POWERFUL ANTI-OXIDANTS Combining multivitamin extracts, potent skin protectors, and super-charged skin-renewing ingredients distilled from Champagne grapes and highly concentrated Royal Bulgarian roses, this signature Pro facial treatment infuses skin with lasting hydration and elasticity. Full at-home retail program available to enhance results. Show special available.
VISIT US IN LONG BEACH BOOTH 219-221 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card
SEE OUR NEW MARINE COLLAGEN FACIAL!
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Toll Free: 888.200.3977
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www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com
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SPA
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RENEW WITH BAMBOO
Benefits For Clients Supplies Needed: - The warmth of the bamboo sticks helps
- Solid bamboo massage stick set, made
soften muscle tissue for a more effective
specifically for use on the body (8 pieces:
massage treatment.
1 large full stick 16”, 1 short full stick 6”, 2 thin sticks 14” with cotton tapotement
- Bamboo’s firm pressure and heat effec-
wraps, 4 half cuts rounded on one side and
tively ease tension in tight muscles. Clients
flat on other side).
also love the luxurious feeling this creates.
- Bamboo has anti-bacterial properties.
posed of 100 percent bamboo, since bamboo has natural anti-bacterial properties. Professionally made sticks are solid, not
-
The sticks come in varying shapes and
sizes to work on specific muscle groups.
hollow, so they can be properly sanitized between clients. The solid sticks warm up evenly and retain heat well.
- The therapist can easily adjust the leverage to perform either a relaxation or a deep
- Massage lubricant (light oil, lotion, cream)
tissue massage.
- The bamboo massage is easy to perform;
Digital heating pad (commercial grade
king size 14” x 27”)
using the sticks saves the therapist’s hands
- Anti-bacterial wipes for hands and face
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #165 on reader service card
and wrists from injury.
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set prior to use. In rare situations, dropping a bamboo piece on the floor can damage the bamboo and cause a rough spot. If this occurs, file the rough spot with a nail file or fine grain sand paper until smooth and apply oil to that area.
* I M P O RTA N T : The bamboo stick set should be com-
Easy To Work With
Always inspect your bamboo
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WARM BAMBOO STICKS CAN BOTH STRENGTHEN THE THERAPEUTIC BENEFITS OF MASSAGE AND MAKE THE THERAPIST’S JOB EASIER.
LNEonline.com
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SPA
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RENEW WITH BAMBOO
Treatment Length
Treatment Price
Approximately 60 - 90 minutes (if each stroke
Ranges from $120 to $170
is performed slowly three to six times) Note: Treatment time can be ad-
Contraindications
FINAL TIP: Don’t work over bony prominences and avoid areas of endangerment.
justed by changing the number of repetitions for each stroke
Bamboo massage was designed for use on
or spending additional time on
normal, healthy skin. Contraindications are
specific body parts.
the same as those associated with relaxation or deep tissue massage, which include, but are not limited to the following:
THE BAMBOO MASSAGE IS EASY TO PERFORM; USING THE STICKS SAVES THE THERAPIST’S HANDS AND WRISTS FROM INJURY.
Nathalie Cecilia, a native of Nimes,
- Osteoporosis - Neuropathy - Uncontrolled high blood pressure - Uncontrolled diabetes - Varicose veins - Sunburn - Recent major surgeries - Clients with sensitivity to heat, such as
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #317 on reader service card
pregnant women or elderly individuals
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South France, attended the Sarasota School of Massage in Florida. She later opened her own business specializing in deep tissue massage utilizing bamboo. Cecilia is the original source of bamboo massage in the United States, offering professionally made bamboo sets and DVDs about the protocol. An international massage educator, she teaches continuing education classes at spas and resorts.
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september 2015
LNEONLINE.COM Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664
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888.415.1192 VioraMed.com
Targeting Cellulite The P.R. Shape Technique combines the proven technologies of pneumatic massage, ultrasound vibrations, and lymphatic drainage to successfully target all cellulite related problems such as orange peel appearance, dimpling of the skin, localized fat deposits and skin contour irregularities. The strength of this unique system lies in the synergy that exists between each of the technologies, taking individual results to a level never seen before.
EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS
SPANews
800.552.0418 silhouettone.com
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september 2015
CryoClear is the all new cryotherapy device designed specifically for estheticians. CryoClear uses carbon dioxide as a spray to treat superficial skin indications such as skin tags, age spots and sun spots. Whether used as a standalone treatment, or as a combination treatment to facials, chemical peels or micro-needling, CryoClear offers a better, faster cryotherapy solution with significant benefits for clients and estheticians.
855.355.2796 cryoclearrx.com
Advantages of Infrared Clinical Director Dr. Aaron M. Flickstein, Emeritus D.C., the leader in far infrared wellness technology, releases compiled studies on slim down through infrared heat. “FIT Bodywrap has demonstrated its ability to serve as passive cardiovascular exercise and enhance one’s fitness regimen,” said Dr. Flickstein. “My new study compilation demonstrates how far infrared technology can provide slim down benefits.”
Visit LNEonline.com for more news 50
Skin Tags, Age and Sun Spots Beware!
888.534.8669 Fitbodywrap.com
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LNE & SPA
CHAT with Stella Beyder Interview conducted by Laetitia Longuefosse
This month, we feature Stella Beyder, a gifted esthetician who provides her services at CIEL Spa at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills, Calif., and runs a private practice.
How did your career begin? In 2010 working for a large spa franchise. After a year, I was hired at another spa and worked both jobs. Each offered training and education from product vendors. I was a sponge for knowledge, attending trade shows and classes and learning as much as possible. My clients appreciated my thirst for knowledge and I was able to stay busy wherever I worked. What made you decide to open your own beauty studio? And how did you do it? In 2012, Stella Skin + Body, a boutique skin care studio opened it’s doors. Thanks to Craigslist, I found my 10 x 20 square foot room that I rent month to month. The first six months were stressful. I invested money into equipment and products and had no idea how long it would take to see return on investment. Rent had to be paid
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and I was only seeing a handful of clients each week. Working my other spa jobs helped me during this time. What’s the best thing you learned from opening your own studio? You’re called to lead and serve others, inspire your friends, clients and peers and connect to a greater purpose. The call is loud — but the voice of doubt is often even louder. The nasty voice of fear holds you back, saying, “Who am I to be a leader?” I doubted myself frequently. Wondering if I was good enough, and if I would make it on my own. Three years later, my practice is thriving and evolving. What is your mission as a spa owner? My purpose and what brings me joy is to be of service, to listen, to connect and to create treatments that change my clients’ skin and state of being.
cent), mostly locals, who are seeing changes in their skin and want natural and holistic ways to address these concerns.
What are your biggest challenges? Keeping up with marketing and social media. I consider myself “techchallenged” on how to use Twitter, Instagram and update Facebook. The challenges of being a sole practitioner is getting comfortable doing things that you may not be good at or have any experience with — such as bookkeeping, taxes, and marketing.
What can you tell us about your marketing techniques? When I first opened my studio, I ran discount deals online. I quickly learned that discount shoppers are only after the discount price. Very few of those clients ever came back to become regulars. Working at large luxury spas, I noticed that discounts and specials were rarely offered. Maintaining price and excellent service keeps the integrity of our industry. Service is everything. Provide a memorable guest experience and you will always be busy. Clients will appreciate and value what you do.
How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? Maintaining a daily meditation practice. Connecting to nature is really important to me. I love to hike and be outdoors.
How do clients find you? Word of mouth referrals and Yelp. Without a big spa name and marketing budget, it is challenging to get noticed. Ultimately, my clients are men (20 percent) and women (80 per-
What is your philosophy? My skin care philosophy is a holistic one. My intention is to provide a place of healing offering organic skin care and protocols.
What about retail? I do have a small retail area. Retail is about 30 percent of the studio’s revenue and it makes sense to me to be able to propose products to help my treatments last longer. What would be the best advice you could give to an esthetician who wants to open a solo practice? Believe that you can be successful. Doubt will creep in and you will make mistakes, that’s all part of the journey. Show up every day, be authentic, set your intentions and dream big. Learn as much as you can, take classes, go to trade shows and get treatments. Where would you like to be in five years? I will be in a larger space attracting even more incredible clients and helping them look and feel their best. n
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Marketing
Brilliance By David Suzuki
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I
n the skin care business, we have an opportunity to keep our clients intrigued, engaged, and having fun. This can all be accomplished by creating a business model that follows traditional principles that are updated periodically. One way to do this in your spa is to create a monthly theme to add variety to your menu. Continue to offer your traditional menu, but add options that coincide with the monthly theme. This prompts the customer to engage, consider, ask questions, and then experience something new and different. These are the reactions that we as skin therapists would like to see from our clients. We want to do more than simply perform a skin care service for our clients — we want them to be engaged as active participants in the process of achieving beautiful skin!
Invest or Create? Marketing brilliance does not mean that you have to go out and buy a new product line or technology every month to add innovative offerings to your menu. While it is strategic to invest in your business, remember that clients don’t care how much you spent on a product or technology — they care about their results and their experience. Invest in your business to ensure that you have the best tools, technology and products available to achieve excellence in service. Look around your business and consider what you already have to work with in terms of products, technology, and your service menu. Work with your team to agree on a monthly theme, and decide on specific products and services that will champion this theme. The creation and conceptualization of this as a team is where it all begins. If your team is not engaged, knowledgeable, and excited, how can you expect your clients to be?
Strategic Partnership
Projection
Perception
Experience
If you do choose to find a new partner for your product or technology line offerings, look for a company that will be just as interested in talking to you after you have made your big purchase or opened your account as they were before. As a matter of fact, the best measure of a good partner is how you are treated and supported after the sale has been made. So it’s important to clarify this expectation with a potential new partner before committing to them. Let any potential partner know that you want them to work with you and your team to create LNEonline.com
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55
unique, forward thinking services to enhance your menu and your business. This partner should be able to supply you with protocols, professional product usage, retail product suggestions, imagery, science, and hopefully a special deal on your product focus for each month as a token of their support of you and your team.
Communicate by Educating Consider an example of how to market your existing and temporary thematic services based on skin issues your clients deal with. For example, in order to assist with the education of expression aging, it would be beneficial for your team to write up a brief summary regarding the science of the key ingredients and technology that will be used in the service, their efficacy, and also how your proposed treatment for this issue may compare to alternative solutions you don’t offer, such as Botox. Remember that your objective is to educate this client on what you have to offer, rather than offend them if they’re a fan of Botox. I find that many who invest in procedures such as Botox are prime candidates for like kind services and products, as they tend to be early adopters and explore many different pathways and disciplines, oftentimes simultaneously, to achieve their objectives.
Change is Good
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In the end, a monthly themed menu may not appeal to every client; some will always prefer to stick to their regular routine, and some will try the new themed service and decide they prefer their regular service. Hopefully, most will enjoy the new experience and learn something interesting. Even if they don’t, they may at least know of other people it may be suitable for. So they may discuss it with their family and friends, or possibly even purchase the treatment as a gift service for them. Remember that you are more than a skin therapist. You are the leader of your tribe, a coach and a personal trainer for your client’s beauty. It’s up to you to lead them with new ideas, services, technology, science, and products. Humans are curious in nature; if not led, they will inherently begin to look elsewhere for new innovative solutions. Building a strong business requires more than simply finding new clients, it requires keeping our core loyalists satisfied and engaged. n
56
David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com. |
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marie-henriette natural mineral spring water from a protected environment.
OF WOMEN HAVE SENSITIVE SKIN, DO YOU? proven results: THE SKIN IS MORE COMFORTABLE AND SOOTHED AT THE END OF THE 50 MIN. TREATMENT!
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Exclusively in beauty institutes & spas.
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1-800-325-0503
* TesT on 20 subjecTs afTer 1 sooThing professional TreaTmenT.
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BUSINESS
STEP IT
UP! REVITALIZE YOUR TEAM IMPROVE RETAIL SALES by Dori Soukup
R
etail sales are a sore subject within the spa industry. Most spa leaders have good intentions and attempt to improve retail
sales performance, but still fall well short of their targets. Leaders fail to achieve retail growth for many reasons, one being that they overlook the most important aspect of their business’ success — their team members. Team members play a vital role in retail sales. As a spa leader, you must truly grasp how important team members are to your success, and implement the following four essential business strategies to improve your retail sales once and for all.
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september 2015
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STEP IT UP!
SPAS LOSE PROFITS BY DEFAULT At spas with low performing teams, guests
Spa leaders constantly complain about the
ment volume and retail volume per guest
arrive, receive their treatment and leave
lack of retail and upgrade sales in their busi-
(see formulas on page 44). Then, measure
the spa empty-handed. They aren’t given
nesses, knowing that they’re not earning as
results on a regular basis. Don’t wait until
any home maintenance advice or treatment
much as they can. But when asked what the
the end of the month to find out that your
upgrade recommendations. With each ses-
consequences are for team members who
team didn’t hit your targets — by that time
sion that ends like this, your spa loses an
don’t meet sales targets, they don’t have
it’s too late. Track daily performance and
opportunity to leverage your products and
an answer. How do you expect your team
watch your profits grow!
treatments to maximize the guest’s experi-
to improve performance and achieve results
ence AND boost your revenues!
if they’re not held accountable?
Billions of dollars are spent on beauty and self-care products every year! Unfortunately,
Implement the following four steps to mo-
most spas are not getting their share of the
tivate your team to produce the results you
Compensation plays a huge role in boost-
market, missing out on millions of dollars
desire, and begin tapping into these missed
ing your revenues. A team member who is
that can be generated from upgrade op-
revenue opportunities:
not recommending products and treatment
portunities and retail sales.
upgrades does not deserve to earn the same
“TEAM MEMBERS PLAY A VITAL ROLE IN RETAIL SALES. AS A SPA LEADER, YOU MUST TRULY GRASP HOW IMPORTANT TEAM MEMBERS ARE TO YOUR SUCCESS.” 60
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2. Link Compensation to Performance
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1. Set Performance Expectations and Measures
amount of money as one who does. Tying service commission to retail commission is a guaranteed way to motivate the team to
If you don’t know what you’re aiming for,
make recommendations.
how will you know if you hit your target? Once you know what your expectations are, you will be able to measure them. You
3. Develop a Recommending System
must set expectations to improve team performance. Your team must be fully aware
It’s much easier for your team to recommend
of their professional obligations as thera-
spa products and treatment upgrades if
pists. Set specific targets for both treat-
you have a recommending system in place.
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Skin knows. From the purest ingredients, to our innovative formulations, quality is something the skin can feel. Clients indulge in it. Therapists prefer it.
• Paraben Free • Dye Free • Unscented • Natural
Call for free samples • 800.253.6466 • www.bonvital.com
™
Performance Health®, Bon Vital’®, Biofreeze®, TheraBand™, the Color Pyramid Design™ and Associated Colors™, TheraPearl®, Pedigenix®, Prossage® and Cramer® Trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its subsidiaries and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2015—Performance Health and Wellness Holdings. All rights reserved.
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STEP IT UP!
Systems ensure consistency, accuracy, and
ing things. It must be a system that you can
ness success. It needs to be conducted often
growth. I recommend a philosophy fo-
teach your team, and one that allows you
and involve role playing. Someone must be
cused on delivering a complete, satisfying
to measure effectiveness.
responsible for training and coaching the team. Your team members must role-play
guest experience in the spa and at home. Implement a system in which your team
4. Training / Coaching the Team
the process of recommending products and treatments. The more they do, the more
members identify your guests’ needs or concerns, and then recommend the ap-
Performance improvement is an endless
confident they will be when suggesting in-
propriate upgrades.
cycle, so your training and coaching efforts
spa and at-home regimens and treatments
You can develop your own system cus-
should be a never-ending process. Training
to your guests.
tomized to your own business’s way of do-
is an essential component to your spa busi-
Team training should include knowledge of technical information, protocols, and the
silcskin_ad-collette_decollette.pdf
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12:57 PM
recommendation process to upgrade treatments and recommend home care options. Set a training schedule and make learning fun in your organization! Beth Pestotnik, founder and CEO of Skin Essentials in Littleton, Colo., has achieved a Volume Per Guest (VPG) revenue of $189 from retail sales. Pestotnik swears by the VPG performance formula (right). This is a highly effective way of measuring the amount of revenue you generate, on average, for every guest.
SERVICE VOLUME FOR ONE MONTH
=
VOLUME PER GUEST FOR SERVICE
C
M
÷
Y
NUMBER OF GUESTS
CM
The SAME FORMULA applies to retail sales:
MY
CY
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CMY
K
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RETAIL VOLUME FOR THE SAME PERIOD
=
RETAIL VOLUME PER GUEST
÷
NUMBER OF GUESTS
“ YOU CAN DEVELOP YOUR OWN SYSTEM CUSTOMIZED TO YOUR OWN BUSINESS’S WAY OF DOING THINGS. IT MUST BE A SYSTEM THAT YOU CAN TEACH YOUR TEAM, AND ONE THAT ALLOWS YOU TO MEASURE EFFECTIVENESS.” september 2015
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STEP IT UP!
Calculate your own VPG for each team mem-
If performance does not improve, conse-
ing. Focus first on spa business training, and
ber, set new targets, and apply the four
quences should progress accordingly:
then invest in team development — teach-
steps. Make sure your team understands this new structure so you can enforce the consequences for non-performance.
CONSEQUENCES FOR
NON-PERFORMANCE Performance improvement and consequence setting start during the hiring process. Each new employee needs to leave the interview and orientation informed of
- For new hires, additional training and coaching
- First verbal warning, more training - First written warning, more training - Second written warning, more training - Refer them to your competition
ing them the essential skills for spa success and what that could mean for them — you will be amazed at the total transformation of your team! Make the commitment to deliver a great guest experience and business excellence today! Focus on these four strategies and maximize your revenue generation.
the expectations of the position. The posi-
Invest in team members who want to devel-
tion description must outline your recom-
op their skills and grow, not those who don’t
Dori Soukup is an executive coach,
mendation expectations, and your employee
understand the importance of home care
author, professional speaker
orientation manual needs to outline the
and fulfilling their professional obligation.
and the founder of InSPAration
consequences of not reaching those expec-
Management. She speaks at con-
COMMON MISTAKE
ventions all over the world and hosts public and
upon accepting the position. Only then can
Most spa leaders train their treatment and
have helped thousands of spa professionals expe-
you can start managing and implementing
reception team on the technical aspects of
rience exponential growth and profits. She can be
rewards and recognition for them.
their job, but drop the ball on business train-
reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.
tations. Your new hire needs to understand and agree to the performance expectations
Discover an
private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies
exciting,
rewarDing, lucrative career!
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permanent makeup professional at our world renowned permanent makeup training center. Enhance and restore ones’ natural beauty with permanent makeup and areola tattooing. Our graduates have opportunities to work in medical practices, salons and medi spas or as solo practitioners.
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888.763.2328
Located in Mount Laurel, New Jersey
beauinstitute.com Beau Institute founder Rose Marie Beauchemin
september 2015
|
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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #167 on reader service card
Train to become a
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Successful Hands Grant Program Shines Two massage therapy students received $500 Successful Hands grants during Student Day at the American Massage Conference on Friday, June 12, 2015. The Successful Hands Grant Program™, launched through the collaborative efforts of Biofreeze®, Massage Envy Spa® and Bon Vital’®, supports professional massage therapy students and their schools.
800.321.2135 Performancehealth.com
BusinessNews
Outfitting Schools with BT Tools
Proactive approach to microbead concerns
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE
Clinical-based professional skin care brand Control Corrective Skincare Systems is as serious about the well-being of the planet as it is about the well-being of clients’ skin. “At Control Corrective, we believe effective skin care solutions should never come at a dangerous cost to our environment or its creatures,” said Ellen Clark, founder and president. “We always approach formulation with the best quality ingredients and safety in mind, and take immediate action when research shows otherwise.”
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september 2015
800.971.6438 bio-therapeutic.com
866.290.4290 Controlcorrective.com
Easy Access Ayurveda Shankara Ayurveda Spa at The Art of Living Retreat Center (Boone, NC) has released “Ayurveda 101”, a free e-book that engages readers by offering a new perspective on what it means to live to their full potential. “For centuries, Ayurveda has helped people manage their health and live with more energy,” says a spa representative.
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Bio-Therapeutic is partnering with schools around the world to deliver bt-GEAR® School Kits! Schools who partner with Bio-Therapeutic are able to supply new students bt-GEAR® in their student kits, including the bt-zoom®, btvision®, bt-analzye® and bt-micro®. In addition, BT schools also have access to Bio-Therapeutic’s forward thinking array of PRO® technology at special school prices, as well as Bio-Therapeutic’s cutting-edge technology education curriculum.
800.392.6870 artoflivingretreatcenter.org
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From manual, chemical, electrical and everything in between, our special Exfoliation Guide offers skin care therapists endless options...
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ROADMAP TO RESULTS Customizing Exfoliation Treatments for Each Client By Patricia Faley
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EXFOLIATION GUIDE
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E
xfoliation is one of the most requested — and debated — steps of professional skin care treatments. Should I or shouldn’t I? What should I use? Can I steam with this exfoliant? But the most frequently asked question of all is: Who is it suitable for? The short answer is everybody, however picking the best treatment for each client is more complicated. With the combinations and choices available today, our treatment room can become quite the lab! This article is your roadmap to customizing the safest and most effective exfoliation treatment for every client.
CONSULTATION We must first ensure that the client is a suitable candidate for the exfoliation treatment we choose through a thorough consultation and skin analysis, investigating the following: • Has the client used any exfoliants earlier that day? If so, which ones? • Are they under a physician’s care and using a prescription strength retinoid or other sensitizing product that would interfere with a specific type of product? • The skin’s barrier function should be intact, so recent reactions should be discussed. A recent cold or change in environment, travel or even laundry detergent can cause a skin reaction. Once our skin analysis is complete, we can determine the client’s skin type, condition and Fitzpatrick level, which all determine the most suitable ingredients for each client’s exfoliation treatment.
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EXFOLIATION GUIDE
SKIN TYPE All skin types benefit from exfoliation; it allows other product ingredients to penetrate further with more efficacy, and brings new hydrated cells closer to the surface. In addition, it improves barrier function and helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) so the skin looks hydrated. Exfoliating helps heal breakouts and decongest areas of oilrich production; over time, exfoliation can reduce lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, leading to an overall improvement in skin texture and tone.
barrier properties of the skin, as it’s non-invasive.
• Dry skin types often benefit from retinoids or vitamin A derivatives, delivered in an oil base to minimize stinging. This combination improves elasticity and helps reverse signs of premature photoaging.
Hyperpigmentation, photodamage and aging: These skin conditions usually improve dramatically with the help of retinoids combined with lactic acid for brightening. Jessner’s solution combines 14% lactic acid, 14% salicylic acid and resorcinol. Trichloracetic acid (TCA) is a medium to deep exfoliating agent and can be applied in progressive layers, depending on the skin’s response.
• Normal and combination skin types can often tolerate more grainy scrub bases such as corn cob meal, which can also be added into a cleanser under steam. • Sensitive skin types need exfoliation just like any other. If the barrier is intact, opt for mild rice bran and phytic acid combinations, which can brighten and soothe at the same time. This is generally referred to as microfoliation, and does not compromise the
• Oily and acne prone skin types benefit from a combination of ingredients that fight congestion, bacteria and inflammation. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, antibacterial and liposolvent, which is beneficial for excess sebum production found in these skin types.
SKIN CONDITIONS
Breakouts and congestion: If the skin is not inflamed, a grainy type mix is advisable, such as corn cob meal or fruit enzymes used under steam after mixing with water. This can also help to digest skin cells and loosen comedones. In addition, it softens up the surface and preps the skin for extractions.
Sensitive skin types need exfoliation just like any other. If the barrier is intact, opt for mild rice bran and phytic acid combinations, which can brighten and soothe at the same time.
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Sensitized skin: Find out what caused the client’s skin to become sensitized. Eliminate the offending ingredient or product and wait until a future service to include an exfoliant step. When you do perform the exfoliant step, check the barrier function and protect sensitive areas such as the edges of the mouth, nose and eyes with a gel masque as a buffer.
Eczema: Hydration and conditioning of the skin should be our foremost focus before any type of cell turnover step is carried out on this skin. Don’t treat red and inflamed skin. Once the barrier function is no longer impaired, use a gentle enzyme exfoliant with steam.
Psoriasis: The goal when treating this skin is to soften and remove plaques, as well as repair the barrier while eliminating dead cell buildup. Microfoliation is the best option but lactic acid can also hydrate and gently exfoliate the skin. Clients can benefit from balneotherapy, soaking in a solution of essential oils and mineral sea salts, which gently remove plaques from the body on the knees, legs and elbows.
In addition to skin type and condition, the Fitzpatick scale should be taken into consideration, as it can influence our ingredient choice.
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FITZPATRICK SCALE
Fitzpatrick 1: Pale, porcelain or ivory complexion skin. This may be reactive and sensitive to heat or steam, so gentle options such as mild enzymes are a great choice to start.
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EXFOLIATION GUIDE
Exfoliation is an essential part of your skin care services and client’s home care, and with a proper professional assessment, consultation and skin analysis, you can achieve great results!
Fitzpatrick 2: This skin is sensitive but not too reactive, and may tolerate an alpha hydroxy/ beta hydroxy mix with some steam at a distance. Fitzpatrick 3: This skin burns but slowly tans, and is more tolerant of all exfoliant choices and blends. Add an exfoliant “booster” to a standard base, which may include amino peptidase or bacillis ferment, a source of protease enzymes that helps loosen cell cohesion while stimulating digestion of keratin protein in the epidermis. Fitzpatrick 4: These clients have a moderate to dark brown skin tone that rarely burns, along with dark hair and eyes. Most skin in this category can tolerate similar blends to a Fitzpatrick 3, however require more caution with the higher strength AHA blends or peels such as TCA or Jessner’s.
and more resilient, as it may not respond favorably to a low pH acid applied without a prep stage or a patch test. Exfoliation is an essential part of your skin care services and client’s home care, and with a proper professional assessment, consultation and skin analysis, you can achieve great results! n
Patricia Faley has served the professional skin care industry for the last 30 years. As Regional Training Manager for the International Dermal Institute, she is responsible for IDI instructors in the East Coast, and is a frequent guest speaker and teacher at training centers. Faley was previously an examiner for City and Guilds of London Institute, and has worked as a skin therapist, training instructor, spa and business specialist.
Fitzpatrick 5: This complexion rarely burns, and ranges from a naturally radiant bronze to rich brown tone. Caution is necessary when using agents such as TCA or higher strength acids, as there may be post inflammatory responses to exfoliants that cause hyperpigmentation. This is referred to as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Fitzpatrick 6: This complexion is very rich in color. As with a Fitzpatrick 5 skin type, be cautious with a skin that appears thicker
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SCRAPE IT
OFF!
Manual Exfoliation Modalities By Caroline Canetti
W
hen your clients are not ready for the more aggressive forms of exfoliation, such as chemical peels or high-tech mechanical methods, your only course of action is to stick to the basics with manual exfoliation treatments. This includes the oldest and most non-invasive methods, such as salt scrubs, sugar scrubs and dry brushing, as well as the newer tools used for dermaplane and dermafile treatments.
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Face and Body Scrubs As more spa professionals shy away from scrubs made with plastic beads for environmental reasons, the more popular scrubs today are the tried and true elements: salt, sugar, and jojoba. Scrubs made from a variety of other natural resources such as flaxseed, oatmeal, rice, seaweed, and more are also on the rise. While all of these scrubs do the trick, each has its own special benefits. Most professionals agree that salt is better for the body as it’s a bit tougher, and the less abrasive sugar is more suited for the face, but many spas use either for every area. Skin care educator Tomi Murphey recommends cornmeal for very dry skin because it’s more emollient. Bella Sante Day Spa & Med Spa, which has three locations in Massachusetts, mixes seaweed with crystals for their scrub because “sea water is the closest thing to the blood’s plasma so the skin readily accepts that,” says esthetic director and medical esthetician Nicole Roketenetz.
Hand and Feet Scrubs Hands and feet are often overlooked areas when it comes to exfoliation treatments, but scrubs for these areas are must-have elements to your manicures, pedicures, and other treatments for your clients’ tips and toes. “Clients are concerned with the look and feel of their hands because hands give away age — and most people don’t regularly exfoliate and treat them, and they are often neglected when putting on sunscreen. We have quite a few women who get just one hand treated, because here in the South Florida sun they are out playing golf a lot and so just their one hand (the one not covered by the golf glove) is in need of the exfoliation service and
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treatment,” says Darcie Pritchett, owner of Eden Day Spa in Boca Raton, Fla. The spa’s manicures and pedicures, which start at $25, include a skin-polishing sugar scrub. SenSpa’s SenSole Foot Refresher (30 minutes, including a foot massage for $70 or 15 minutes for $35) uses a handheld supersonic tool to exfoliate and help with product penetration. “You start with using the serrated vibrating disc on dry feet to slough off some of the calluses and dry skin cells first. Then a microbead scrub is applied with the vibrating brush head in a circular motion to slough off the next level. Then a vitamin E-rich lotion is worked into the feet to get to deeper layers of skin, and a nutrient-rich balm acts as a protective sealant,” says Eaton.
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Dermaplaning and Dermafile Imagine scraping off paint from a wall with a scraper. That’s how dermaplaning takes off the top layers of epidermis. Using a scalpel held at a 45-degree angle, this highly effective exfoliation device has the added bonus of removing vellus hair. “You get a great exfoliation and you can have it by itself or with a mask or as a pre-prep to a peel. If someone is a big makeup wearer and they have a lot of vellus hair, it sloughs that off and the makeup goes on flawlessly. It’s better than waxing or shaving hair face,” says Roketenetz. Dermafile is another non-invasive manual tool that you can use with or
EXFOLIATION GUIDE
Incorporate some or all of these treatments into your menu to ensure you can address all of your clients’ exfoliation needs, including those who are wary of more advanced approaches.
without product, on wet or dry skin, on the face or any other part of the body. “It does exactly what microdermabrasion does without the suction, and it doesn’t break blood vessels like microdermabrasion can,” says Murphey. It also helps build collagen, smooth fine lines, reduces the appearance of acne scars, and helps with pigmentation. There’s no downtime for either of these methods, and can be used on all skin types except for clients with acneic skin, cystic acne, sunburn, or those taking the acne medicine Accutane.
chemical. A favorite manual exfoliation method is gommage, which is a technique to create a deep sloughing of the skin using a skin-refining mask. “The refiner is applied in a very thin layer and allowed to dry a bit, and then you use your first two fingers to gently, yet firmly, manually exfoliate the skin, causing a peeling effect. The work is done in small sections and takes 20-25 minutes to work the entire face, and additional time for the neck and décolleté,” says Z Salon & Spa skin care specialist Bella Kasabova (Botanical Resurfacing Treatment, 75 minutes, $115).
Gommage
Dry Skin Brushing
Z Salon & Spa in Louisville, Ky., uses 19 different exfoliation masque recipes, some of which are manual and some
Dry brushing is a great first step to any body treatment. It not only sloughs off the top level of dead skin cells, but it in-
creases circulation, helps stimulate the lymphatic flow, feels invigorating, and helps to prep the skin for body wraps that don’t include an exfoliating scrub. Many tools can be used in dry brushing, including a brush with a long wood handle with natural bristles or mitts made of various materials. “My favorite is mitt with a honeycomb design because it helps with compressive strength; it’s resistant to puncture and is really flexible. It’s also soft enough so it’s not too abrasive on the skin, but strong enough to get the lymphatic fluid flowing. It’s also hyper-allergenic, and made of a plastic material so that we can easily wash and sterilize it,” says Eaton. SenSpa’s dry brushing is offered for 15 minutes for $35 or 30 minutes or $75, and the product is retailed for $18. Some spas, such as milk + honey in Austin, Texas, which uses a natural bristle brush (15 minutes, $25) that can’t be reused, gives the brush used in the treatment to the client as a takehome gift. Incorporate some or all of these treatments into your menu to ensure you can address all of your clients’ exfoliation needs, including those who are wary of more advanced approaches. Clearly, there is no shortage of manual exfoliation methods to keep your clients’ skin radiant and glowing! n
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FRESH
FACE FORWARD The Expert’s Guide to Chemical Exfoliation By Beth Bialko
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Before you get started, check with your State Board along with the Medical Board laws and regulations to get a firm grip on which chemical exfoliants can legally be used by a skin therapist.
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F
resh, glowing, resilient skin with evenly distributed pigmentation and ultra-refined texture — that’s what your clients want. Without question, the most effective way to achieve this is exfoliation. The key to producing the results that your clients demand is knowing how much is “just enough,” and then precisely and skillfully applying exfoliation techniques safely in the treatment room. Consider the following chemical exfoliation mantra: “Honor the fine balance between skin rejuvenation and causing damage.” There is a calculated element and level of controlled injury that’s intrinsic to the effectiveness of the procedure. It’s important to understand the relative strength and intensity of exfoliation and the nature of the ingredients. The current condition of the client’s skin, lifestyle and medical history are crucial things to take into consideration, so be sure to thoroughly consult and document: • Pregnancy (avoid vitamin A and high levels of salicylic acid) • Allergy to aspirin (avoid salicylic acid) • Active cold sores • Medically prescribed exfoliating products • Isotretinoin • Recent sun exposure or sunburn • Rashes, irritation, inflammation • At-home skin care use including retinol
Defining terms Chemical exfoliation can jump-start cell turnover for improved skin texture and appearance. A chemical peel (which is often used as a broad term to cover various levels of exfoliation) is an accelerated form of exfoliation that involves an injury of a specific skin-depth.
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Chemical exfoliation or peels are classified into four categories of depth penetration: Very superficial: Penetrates the stratum corneum and stops at the stratum granular layer. Legal for use by professional skin therapists. Superficial: Exfoliates the epidermal layers without going beyond the stratum basal layer. Legal for use by professional skin therapists. Medium: Reaches all layers of the epidermis, all the way down to the papillary dermis. This is usually performed by a physician, or under the supervision of a doctor within a medical setting, such as a medispa.
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Deep: Only physicians may legally work with this level of chemical exfoliation. Deep peels remove the epidermis, the papillary dermis and reach the reticular dermis.
Chemistry 101: Chemical composition of the various ingredients used for chemical exfoliation: • Enzymes are biological catalysts. A catalyst triggers a reaction and gets something started. In the context of a peel, enzymes literally digest excess protein into the skin, which is helpful because accumulated keratin (protein) is a contributing factor in skin that no longer looks bright or feels smooth. • Proteolytic enzymes include papain, bromelain and pumpkin. These
EXFOLIATION GUIDE
to help treat oily and acneic skin, because it effectively loosens keratinous plugs in the follicle. • Phytic acid is found in brown rice, beans, grains and seeds. It’s keratolytic, and works by attracting and binding calcium, which in turn takes it away from the cells’ desmosomes, therefore weakening these bonds to safely release cells. It also binds copper and inhibits tyrosinase, which decreases melanogenesis and reduces hyperpigmentation. A great plus of phytic acid is that it works at a lower pH without causing irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skins. • Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) have a larger molecular structure than AHAs. They are lipid-soluble or lipophilic, meaning they are attracted to oil. The most common BHA used in cosmeceutical formulations is salicylic acid.
stimulate exfoliation by digesting keratin and loosening the bonds between the cells. Proteases target the connections between amino acids, breaking down peptide bonds that link the amino acids together to form the protein. Enzymes are not pH-dependent, but are activated by water. They’re typically gentler than other peeling agents, and they are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive. • Alpha hydroxy acids are often derived from organic sugars: Glycolic (sugar cane), lactic (milk) and phytic (seeds and grains), malic (apples), tartaric (grapes) and mandelic (bitter almonds). Most are water-soluble, meaning that the acid easily changes the skin’s pH and causes an instant “burst” in exfoliation. They exfoliate from the inside out, as AHAs work primarily by dissolving the desmosome connections
between the corneocytes in the lower area of the stratum corneum. • Lactic acid is a keratolytic agent, meaning that it softens and loosens the desmosomes and breaks down the intercellular bonds. Its molecular size is larger than that of glycolic, making its penetration rate slower, so it’s considered gentler — yet it’s often even more effective. Lactic also offers a few unique benefits: it boosts glycosaminogylcans, as well as epidermal barrier lipids, which keep skin strong and slow melanin synthesis to fight hyperpigmentation. • Glycolic acid is the smallest-sized AHA and penetrates the skin easily — which can sometimes result in irritation. It’s keratolytic, as it dissolves the keratin bonds between the corneocytes. Glycolic acid is most commonly used
• Salicylic acid occurs naturally in many plants such as willow bark, wintergreen leaves and sweet birch. It effectively penetrates sebaceous debris in the follicle and triggers exfoliation, basically exfoliating from the outside in, dissolving follicular impactions. It does not require an acidic formula to work. It can be effective in formulas nearer to the skin’s natural pH, and used in conjunction with AHAs. Salicylic acid produces less irritation and exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, making it a preferred option for clients with acne, rosacea and skin sensitivities. • Retinoids: Vitamin A is a go-to because the skin can convert retinol to retinoic acid, a potent skin-exfoliation and anti-aging agent. Retinoic acid is often used after an acid peel so it can penetrate at a deeper level. It’s primarily used on aging, photo-damaged skin.
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• Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is a potent synthetic chemical based on acetic acid and chlorine. It has become one of the leading chemical peeling agents due to its ability to create peels of differing depths. TCA is stable and does not need to be neutralized, thus making it especially effective and safe. Caution: Overlapping applications, or applying too many layers, can lead to complications. TCA functions as a keratocoagulant, meaning that it coagulates proteins in the skin and can show up as “frosting”, especially in areas of breakouts or dehydration. Frosting also signals the depth of penetration — and it tells us when to end an application as the skin has been sufficiently exfoliated. Remember to check with your local regulatory agencies to determine if TCA can be used by a professional skin therapist in your area.
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Post-care Instructions Have a detailed conversation with the client after the treatment for post-care and follow up with her a few days afterward. Steps to recommend:
• Avoid direct sunlight for 48 hours. • Use broad spectrum physical sunscreen daily with a minimum of SPF 30. • Don’t wax for 72 hours after treatment, or immediately before. • Avoid highly active ingredients in products post-treatment for a few days. Use a gentle cleanser and hydrating moisturizer during recovery.
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Remember, as with any professional treatment, moderation and education are key. When it comes to chemical exfoliation, know the depth, know the skin and know your limits.n
Beth Bialko is a fully licensed skin therapist and master instructor with 14 years of experience in the industry. She has worked as a professional skin therapist and has successfully owned and operated her own skin care business. As Global Education Developer for the corporate office of The International Dermal Institute, Bialko is responsible for researching and developing the brand’s education curriculum for the U.S. and international markets.
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Enhancing Exfoliation with Electronics By Carrie Garman
Exfoliation is a fundamental part of a professional skin treatment; it helps remove grime, surface debris, sebum and dead skin cells. It also softens impactions, prepares skin to receive active ingredients, and stimulates cell renewal and turnover. For clients, however, the way the skin looks and feels after exfoliation is the ultimate motivation to book a skin treatment in the first place! To help clients achieve these results and ensure they keep coming back for more, it’s now more important than ever to utilize the advanced modalities and devices that are available to enhance exfoliation in the treatment room.
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ELECTRIC BRUSHES A soft bristled brush that rotates can provide deep cleansing and mild physical exfoliation, enhancing the efficacy of cleansers and exfoliants used in the treatment room. A sponge attachment can also be helpful in the removal of setting masques. Rotating brushes can either be cordless or attached to a multi-functional machine, coming in several shapes and sizes. Most skin types can benefit from the boost in exfoliation that electric brushes provide. However, avoid use on sensitive skin or skin with inflamed acne, as physical exfoliation can create more inflammation.
cally come equipped with a smooth, flat metal probe or blade (also called a skin scrubber). The blade provides more exfoliation benefits and is easily held with the curve facing the skin at a 45 degree angle. The movement should always be upward on the skin with a very light touch; no pressure is needed. This device serves to enhance the exfoliation benefit of the chosen product. Contraindications include metal implants, a pacemaker and medically prescribed exfoliants.
ULTRASONIC / ULTRASOUND
Microdermabrasion is a very popular mechanical form of exfoliation. As this technology has progressed, new variations on the traditional machine are available to provide more options in the treatment room. The traditional form incorporates tubing attached to a hand piece that simultaneously projects mineral crystals or other granules onto
Therapeutic ultrasound can be a very gentle yet effective method of mechanical exfoliation in the treatment room. Sound waves create vibrations that gently slough or shake free dead skin cells in the outermost layers of the epidermis. Professional machines typi-
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MICRODERMABRASION
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the skin, and provides variable levels of suction to remove the crystals along with dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin. The suction creates friction on the skin, resulting in physical exfoliation. Other variations include: Flower grains Offered as an alternative to the traditional aluminum oxide crystals, grains derived from crushed flower seeds are used to gently exfoliate the skin. Different varieties are used, depending on skin type. Diamond tip This type of machine uses vacuum suction but no crystals. Instead, the tip is textured with various sizes of diamond grit (chosen based on client’s skin). Brush tip This is the same concept as the diamond tip, but the brush tip is designed to sweep away dead skin cells.
EXFOLIATION GUIDE Wet/dry microdermabrasion This newer technology is intended to create less potential for damage to the skin when compared with traditional microdermabrasion. The use of gentle hydroxy acids and serums on the skin combined with a diamond tip handpiece allows not only for gentle exfoliation, but also increased hydration and penetration of actives. Many machines also offer the flexibility to choose from more than one of the prior options mentioned, which increases the ability to customize treatment based on the individual client. Contraindications for microdermabrasion include users of medically prescribed exfoliants and/or acne treatments, open or broken skin, and recently waxed skin. Microdermabrasion should also be avoided for those with highly sensitive skin and active inflamed acne.
GALVANIC AND HIGH FREQUENCY There are also some interesting and advanced ways to use galvanic and high frequency machines that you may already have in your treatment room. Using these modalities in an alternative way can amplify the effects of chemical exfoliants and deliver maximum results. Contraindications for galvanic and high frequency include metal implants, pacemakers, heart conditions, epilepsy, pregnancy and diabetes.
water-based hydroxy acid exfoliant can be used in the same way for enhanced product penetration and a more progressive level of exfoliation. This allows you to customize treatments for clients who require more intense exfoliation.
INDIRECT HIGH FREQUENCY Most skin professionals are more familiar with the direct application of high frequency, which utilizes an alternating radio wave known as a Tesla current to create a drying, germicidal effect on the skin, which is especially useful after extractions. The indirect method is less commonly used but certainly offers some attractive benefits. Indirect high frequency is recommended for dry, fragile, dull, or aging skin. Primarily used for massage, this modality stimulates circulation and sebum production while promoting relaxation for your client. In the indirect method, a saturator electrode is held by the client as the therapist’s hands complete the circuit while lightly manipulating an oil-based product on the skin. Traditionally, massage mediums are used with this modality, but lipid rich moisturizers can also be incorporated using the same technique. One of the most exciting ways to use this modality is with an
oil-based exfoliant, ideally one rich in antioxidants. Incorporating a product like this with the technology of indirect high frequency can stimulate even more circulation, allowing for improved ingredient penetration resulting in enhanced exfoliation. These electrical exfoliation options are all available to the professional in multiple forms. Depending on your environment and budget, invest in a multi-functional machine or create your own by purchasing components one at a time. Machines are designed to help make things easier and create greater results. If you’re looking for ways to jump-start your creativity and excite your clients with amazing results, get started with one of these electrical exfoliation options today. n
Carrie Garman is a senior instructor for the International Dermal Institute. She is a licensed skin therapist in Oklahoma and Texas with 14 years of experience in the industry. Garman has worked in many different business settings including full service salons, spas, and retail focused environments.
GALVANIC IONTOPHORESIS Traditionally, galvanic iontophoresis incorporates the use of a low level, direct current that travels from a positively charged, active electrode through the client’s skin to a passive electrode that is negatively charged and held by the client. This method changes the pH of the skin by reacting with sodium salts in the body. The resulting acidic pH enables water-based products to penetrate further into the skin while creating a tightening and calming effect. Any
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Cutting-edge
Trends in
Exfoliation By Caroline Canetti
While educating your clients on proper cleansing and moisturizing are the first steps to getting them on an effective skin care routine, making them understand the importance of regular exfoliation — and getting them excited about it — is a bit trickier.
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“Clients either over-exfoliate, under, or get overwhelmed by all of the information and misinformation out there, so it’s our job to really explain what’s best for their skin. You need them to understand that they’re constantly building up that dead layer of skin and that is what causes that dull look. That’s why exfoliation helps with fine lines, because once the dead layer builds up you see those lines more clearly. It’s vital to rejuvenating your clients’ skin,” says skin care educator Tomi Murphey. With so many options out there, including manual exfoliation with scrubs or chemical exfoliators via peels, estheticians need to remember that exfoliation treatments and ingredients are “not the land of one size fits all,” says Darcie Pritchett, owner of Eden Day Spa in Boca Raton, Fla. There is opportunity to customize and be creative with your exfoliation offerings, making it all that much easier to get your clients excited about exfoliation!
INGREDIENT INNOVATION Konjac Root Many eco-conscious spa professionals today are looking for different natural materials to use for scrubs. One such ingredient that’s gaining notice is konjac root, which is a mineral rich perennial plant (often compared to a potato or yam), grown in high altitudes in Eastern Asian made up of 97 percent water. SenSpa in San Francisco incorporates konjac into their new China Rose Detox Treatment (90 minutes, $225). “It’s an ancient way of using a natural substance for radiant skin,” explains SenSpa’s lead massage therapist Devon Athey, who created this treatment. “It’s naturally alkaline, which is neutral pH, and leaves the skin perfectly balanced. We use a charcoal infused
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konjac sponge that adds the detoxifying effect to exfoliate the entire body. When you wet the sponge, it is rough, but not too rough — just rough enough to open the pores for better product penetration. Clients love the results.” The use of the konjac sponge is the first step in SenSpa’s China Rose Detox Treatment, which also incorporates a green tea clay mask on the body. The client then showers and returns for a rose-infused massage using wax from a candle, drizzled all over their body. The candle wax is rich in vitamins A, B, and E, as well as jojoba and grapeseed oils. The konjac sponge is then given to the client as a take-home treat.
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There is opportunity to customize and be creative with your exfoliation offerings, making it all that much easier to get your clients excited about exfoliation!
Mixed and oily skin / sebaceous cysts
Before treatment
Regeneration of tissue
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After the fourth Treatment
Aging & sun damaged skin / skin laxity
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Scars
Wrinkle formation
After the third treatment
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BASALT Murphey points out that sponges embedded with charcoal are another one of the next big things in exfoliation, but also sees that some companies are using basalt stones (which are typically used in hot stone massages) as well. “They take the basalt stones and ground them up to a very fine grain to make into a body scrub. It’s pretty cool and I have tried it. It’s really great on the feet, knees, and elbows, but not on the whole body.”
Bamboo SenSpa in San Francisco is using ground up bamboo instead of the tried and true salt or sugar in their Lemongrass Bamboo Scrub (30 minutes, $75). “It’s a
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wonderful texture when it’s ground up and it can be soft like sugar, but sugar dissolves and this doesn’t. So it’s soft, but with enough grit to really slough off the dead skin,” says outreach manager Terri Eaton.
CREATE A SCRUB BAR First there were blow dry bars, then there were brow bars, more recently lash bars, so how about a scrub bar? Unlike the aforementioned bars, a scrub bar provides an opportunity for clients to sample the various scrubs used in the spa’s exfoliation portions of facials or body treatments. “It’s a fun way to get them excited about exfoliation services and will help sell your scrubs to up your
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retail sales,” says Darcie Pritchett, owner of Eden Day Spa in Boca Raton, Fla. All it takes is a little space and ingenuity. “You could set up in an area of the spa where you display all of the different scrubs that you offer, arrange them in an attractive bowl or jar with labels that list the name of it, benefits, ingredients, contraindications, and ideal skin types and condition. And, if you have shower or steam room facilities, the guest could choose a scrub to bring into it and do a self-application and exfoliation. This would give them the opportunity to try, feel, and smell all of the offerings,” says Pritchett. The spa could also offer a special price for a combination of the client’s in-spa use of their chosen scrub and taking one home. This strategy increases sales and awareness of the importance of regular exfoliation.
INVENTIVE PACKAGING Eden Day Spa educates their clients on their peels by offering a Facial Peel Sampler package. “It makes it fun for guests to try all of the different types of exfoliating services that we offer. Most of the peels can be used by almost all skin types, so it works for most of our clients, and this allows them to try out each and every peel to see which type of peel that they like best,” says Pritchett. Eden’s Facial Peel Sampler series includes all six of their facial peels (Glycolic, Yam & Pumpkin, Blueberry Detox, Hydrating Lactic & Green Tea, Arctic Berry Illuminating and the Miami
MECHANICAL AND CHEMICAL OPTIONS Z Salon & Spa in Louisville, Ky., offers both mechanical and biochemical exfoliation methods in their Dual Exfoliation Treatment (50 minutes, $115). “It’s a deep, aggressive, but safe treatment with no side effects or downtime. This treatment combines mechanical exfoliation to physically remove dead corneum cells using a clay-based scrub with natural bamboo steam powder. For the biochemical exfoliation part, we use a plant peel based on salicylic acid that loosens dead cells from the skin’s surface. It help dissolve the bounds that hold the cells together,” says Z Salon & Spa skin care specialist Bella Kasabova. This treatment is useful for skin with hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and acne scars.
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Peel; each are 25 minutes and range from $55 to $115) at a discounted cost. “We don’t usually advocate discounting, but in this case we did it since they would be purchasing so many services upfront all at once. We have had a lot of success with it, not only for clients themselves but also for a gift. We sell it under our Specialty Packages section on our Instant Gift Certificates store,” Pritchett adds. No matter what type of exfoliation services and packages you offer, consider taking an innovative approach to this essential element of skin care to entice your clients to invest in this essential element of their skin care. Be inspired by these exciting examples and get your clients hooked on exfoliation! n
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BIODROGA Flaky, dry, or dull skin is no longer an issue with this stimulating formula
Enzyme firming mask
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Opens pores, dissolves oily clogs, removes dead skin flakes
JUNE JACOBS Perfect Pumpkin Enzyme Polish REPÊCHAGE junejacobs.com Biolight Frost Bright Eye Contour Gel repechage.com Spicy detoxifying face and body polish
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SAIAN Enzyme Mask saian.net
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SHIRA Pure AHA Treatment Scrub shiraesthetics.com
A stimulating enzymatic scrub, works to rejuvenate skin cells and remove dry, damaged skin
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JENETIQA Sublime Scrub jenetiqa.com
Ancient maple sugar scrub to smooth and firm skin
FRANCE LAURE Exfoliant francelaure.com
Ultra Exfole' Body Peel Serum rhondaallison.com
All skin types tutti frutti enzymatic cocktail
Tissue repair from photo-aging and skin deterioration
Improves texture, tone, fine lines...
AVERY GRAHAM Active Glycolic Serum averygraham.com
Exfoliating seaweed based lotion
VOYA Body Buff voya.com
A multi-action product that exfoliates dead cells while providing radiance to the skin
SOTHYS PARIS
Brightens and firms skin
CRYSTAL PEEL Fruit Extract Exfoliating Pads crystalpeel.org
2 in 1 Mask Exfoliant sothys-usa.com
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Teach them the fine art of exfoliation... for a flawless complexion in no time! SKIN SCRIPT Retinol 2% Exfoliating Scrub/Mask skinscriptrx.com
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Rosehip Exfoliator szepelet.com
Powerful cellular turnover scrub with retinol, malic acid and jojoba beads
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Blueberry Soy Exfoliating Cleanser eminenceorganics.com
Skin exfoliator with natural fruit extracts Lactic acid content loosens dead cells while rosehip and light herbal oils hydrate the skin
Removes impurities and tighten the appearance of pores for a luminous and youthful skin
Smooth away stress and skin impurities Contains 6% glycolic acid and papaya extract to exfoliate the top layers of dead skin cells
NATURE SPA BOUQUETTM Tangerine Creamy Sugar Scrub naturepure.com
Exfoliate, rejuvenate and smooth the skin
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PFB Liquid Luffa Exfoliating Face & Body Scrub pfbvanish.com
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Express ticket to smoother, brighter and luminous skin
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LE MIEUX Facial Scrubber lemieuxcosmetics.com
Daily Resurfacer dermalogica.com
Revives skin with 28,000 ultrasonic vibrations per second
Leave on exfoliating treatment to brighten all skin types
This creamy facial peeling gently frees the skin from excessive sebum and dead skin cells
DR. MED CHRISTINE SCHRAMMEK Perfect Skin Peeling schrammek.com Infused buffer to smooth and tone skin
SPONGELLÉ Anti-cellulite Body Wash Infused Buffer spongelle.com
These hand crafted, 100% natural biscuits become gentle exfoliating masks
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ISOLA (JAMAICA IN A JAR) Coffee Body Scrub isolabody.com
FARMHOUSE FRESH Facial Buffing Biscuits farmhousefreshgoods.com
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With the must haves for your spa's retail shelves… REPÊCHAGE Biolight Glyco-SeaTM Glycolic Peel repechage.com
HYDROPEPTIDE Anti Wrinkle Polish & Plump Peel hydropeptide.com
Express ticket to smoother, brighter and luminous skin
A microdermabrasion and chemical exfoliation duo for a rejuvenated appearance
DERMALOGICA Daily Resurfacer dermalogica.com
LE MIEUX Facial Scrubber lemieuxcosmetics.com
Revives skin with 28,000 ultrasonic vibrations per second
Leave on exfoliating treatment to brighten all skin types
This creamy facial peeling gently frees the skin from excessive sebum and dead skin cells
DR. MED CHRISTINE SCHRAMMEK Perfect Skin Peeling schrammek.com Infused buffer to smooth and tone skin
SPONGELLÉ
These hand crafted, 100% natural biscuits become gentle exfoliating masks
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Anti-cellulite Body Wash Infused Buffer spongelle.com
Powerful exfoliant loaded with antioxidants and cellulite fighting coffee grinds
ISOLA (JAMAICA IN A JAR) Coffee Body Scrub isolabody.com
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Happy shopping!!! Naturally antifungal and antibacterial, it dries quickly and is great for traveling
SUPRACOR Stimulite Honeycomb Bath Mitt supracor.com
Exfoliating double sided file (coarse/fine) helps hydrate and soften rough skin on feet
FOOTLOGIX Exfoliating Foot File footlogix.com
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SPARITUAL Infinity Loving Sugar Scrub (Chinese Jasmine) sparitual.com
A sonic cleansing brush that is the essential first step in a healthy skin care regimen with Renewal Facial Cream Cleanser and Day/Night Daily Moisturizer
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Ultra soft micro-exfoliating blend to remove debris and oil from pores
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DR. GRANDEL Effect Peeling w/ Refined Bamboo, Enzymes and Kaolin grandel.com
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RISING FROM THE ASHES RIDING THE
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TRENDING TOPICAL
D
o a quick Google search for “activated
be using activated charcoal based products
charcoal” and you’ll find everyone from
in their treatments. However relatively few
niche bloggers to national news sites
spas have jumped on the charcoal wave.
touting the substance’s benefits.
awareness, confusion about implementation,
toxification for hundreds of years in Western
or mistrust of the ingredient, skin care
medicine, however it has only become the
professionals wary of using activated charcoal
new “it” item in beauty and health in recent
have good reason to take another look at its
years. You can now find it in lemonade, teeth
benefits. Spas that have already incorporated
whiteners, and an array of skin care products.
activated charcoal into their treatments tout
Given the craze, you might think that
its ease of use and the marked improvement
every esthetician across the country would
Whether the barrier to its use is lack of
Activated charcoal has been used for de-
it brings to their clients’ skin.
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WHAT IS IT? Activated charcoal has been additionally processed to make it highly porous and adsorptive, meaning it can attract and hold toxins. In the skin care industry, proponents of activated charcoal claim that it cleans the skin by binding impurities in the pores and carrying them away when it’s rinsed off. While this use of the substance hasn’t been scientifically verified, for spas, the proof is in the results. Estheticians say their clients’ skin is “glowing,” “even-toned,” and “unusually clean,” after being treated to a charcoal facial.
HOW TO USE IT With its detoxifying powers, it may seem difficult to decide at which stage to offer activated charcoal in a facial treatment.Some spas, such as Fix Studios in San Francisco, Calif., use charcoal in multiple ways. Leisa Askew, co-founder and owner, has been working with charcoal for more than six years. The spa has pioneered it’s own skin care line, offering charcoal in cleansers that Askew uses in some of her facials. Still, like most spas, Askew most commonly uses charcoal in masks. “As a standard I add activated charcoal into every mask after extractions,” she explains. “The charcoal is very absorbent, so it helps the skin continue to detox. We add antibacterial and antimicrobial agents to the mask too in order to help keep the bacteria down and to calm the skin.”
Client Receiving a Detoxifiying Charcoal Facial Massage.
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RISING FROM THE ASHES
TRENDING TOPICAL
“AFTER APPLYING THE MASK, MUD ESTHETICIANS USE A PROPRIETARY TECHNIQUE, APPLYING COLD GLASS GLOBES TO SPECIFIC PRESSURE POINTS ON THE FACE TO MASSAGE THE PRODUCT INTO THE SKIN.”
ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SPA TREATMENTS NATIONWIDE Fix Studios, San Francisco, Calif. Clear Complexion Facial ( 60 MINUTES, $145 ) This facial targets periodic breakouts to begin clearing chronic skin conditions. An activated charcoal mask follows extractions.
Mud Facial Bar, Chicago, Ill. Detox Facial, ( 30 MINUTES, $40 ) This facial is for deep cleansing and clearer skin. An activated charcoal mask follows cleansing and exfoliation.
Botanic Skin Spa, Miami, Fla. Ultimate Detox Facial, ( 60 MINUTES, $75 ) This facial is designed to refresh your skin and remove impurities. An activated charcoal-based mask is applied at the last stage for detoxification, to even out skin tone and tighten the pores.
Jillian Wright Skin Care, New York City, NY Stress Solution Facial, ( 75 MINUTES, $160 ) Customized deep cleansing facial. A custom-made mask is used in every facial and may include charcoal depending on a client’s needs. Apothecary Facial Mask, 2 oz. jar, $40 Made-to-order custom mask designed to address each client’s unique skin care challenges. Charcoal added based on skin type and upon request.
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At Mud Facial Bar in Chicago, Ill., estheticians cleanse and exfoliate
to remove impurities,” Patel explains. Beyond the cleansing and
clients before applying an activated charcoal mask. “We’ve been
mask stages, spas use activated charcoal to spot treat acne. Askew,
steaming clients the whole time to open their pores so that when
for example, makes a poultice from an aloe-based toner and acti-
we apply the mask it can really penetrate,” shares Shama Patel, the
vated charcoal powder to draw out impurities from lesions before
spa’s owner. After applying the mask, Mud estheticians use a
applying a charcoal mask.
proprietary technique, applying cold glass globes to specific
At whatever stage you do decide to use charcoal, all the profes-
pressure points on the face to massage the product into
sionals interviewed here agree it shouldn’t be used at more than one
the skin, improve blood flow, and reduce inflammation.
or two stages in a facial. “Even if I were a skin type that responds
“This technique really pushes the product into the
well to charcoal I wouldn’t do a charcoal regimen from beginning
pores and allows the mask to serve as a magnet
to end,” Patel advises.
Skin Benefits
At Fix Studios, Askew uses activated charcoal in every facial, though spas more commonly offer the substance as part of a “detox” facial. “I recommend activated charcoal for individuals with acne prone skin, with a lot of congestion in their skin in general, and with really oily areas,” Patel advises. “I’ve never seen a face look and feel cleaner than with activated charcoal when it comes to that acne prone skin.”
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CONTRAINDICATIONS While activated charcoal benefits oily, congested skin, most estheticians agree that it can be harsh, and advise against using it on clients with sensitive skin. Natalia Moreno, owner of Botanic Skin Care in Miami, Fla., uses the substance in a pre-made mask that’s made up bentonite clay, vitamin C, and essential oils. “I won’t use the charcoal mask on people with sensitive skin,” she emphasizes. “It’s very strong and the skin can get really red.” Yet this may be related to whether charcoal is blended with similarly harsh or soothing ingredients. Askew explains, “In my personal experience I don’t have any client that I wouldn’t use charcoal on.”
BEST PRACTICES “Charcoal is easy to work with as long as you don’t use too much. I use just a dab when making my masks,” advises Wright. And once you’ve introduced the ingredient in your spa, Moreno recommends “always doing a spot test to make sure activated charcoal is right for your client.” Before you dive in, be aware that activated charcoal can be messy. You don’t want to use your white towels for charcoal based treatments!
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Complete beauty for
lash, brow and hair!
www.rapidlash.com
877.760.6677
COME LASH OUT WITH US • ICES at the Long Beach Convention Center in Long AT THIS UPCOMING SHOW! Beach, CA on September 20-21 at Booth #318/320
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ORGANIC & WELLNESS
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RISING FROM THE ASHES
CLIENT PERCEPTIONS
Whether you’re drawn to activated charcoal for its detoxification
The three spa owners here using the substance in Miami, Chicago
charcoal wave. Your clients’ skin will enjoy the ride.
benefits, its natural safety, or for the cool factor, spas that currently offer charcoal based treatments highly recommend getting on the
and San Francisco all agree that clients are relatively unaware of activated charcoal, being more likely to look for words like “detox” rather than specific ingredients. For spas in trend-setting New York City, however, it’s a different
Rachel Davita Harris is a writer based in Miami, Fla.
story. “Clients love it when they see I offer activated charcoal, and
She writes about beauty, health, spirituality, local peo-
if someone has acne, they expect me to use it!” Wright exclaims.
ple and places, and produces marketing materials for
Given New York City’s renown for setting trends, you might expect your own clients, wherever your spa is located, to become savvy to the benefits of activated charcoal in the near future.
businesses. Rachel is passionate about helping women experience their beauty and power, and teaches personal story writing classes for women to help them express what it means to be a woman today.
CHARCOAL PRODUCTS FOR PORE FECTION
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Balancing Masque Duo
Supermud Clearing Treatment
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BIOELEMENTS
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Glycolic Charcoal Detox Chemical Peels
Glacial Clay Bodi Wrap
bioelements.com
MARTINNI BEAUTY Charcoal Collagen Mask martinnibeauty.com
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GLAMGLOW
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ossetra-global.ca
OSMOSIS SKINCARE Pore Minimizing Clay Purifying Mask osmosisskincare.com
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AS SEEN IN: COME SEE US!
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OCTOBER 25TH & 26TH, 2015
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clearing
energy Therapeutic Spa Experiences by
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Energy Clearing 101
A
few years ago, I had a profound energy experience that made a lasting impression. I went to
a spa owned by one of my Reiki students for a treatment. She had transformed her space into a virtual nature experience. Her treatment room wall showed videos of nature scenes, while relaxing music filled the air. I was completely engaged … until I laid down on the facial bed. All of a sudden, I was overcome by a sense of dread. The same sentence kept popping into my head: “You have succumbed to cancer.” I thought, “What? Are you talking to me?” I had never heard or felt anything like this before. Yet, those words and a feeling of resignation continued to haunt me. I could not relax and enjoy the treatment. After the service, I asked my student who her last client was. She told me it was someone who had just discovered she has cancer. A-ha! I realized that I had experienced the energy “residue” from her previous client. The imprint of her suffering and resignation to the disease was still in the room … and this was two weeks after she had been there. This experience validated to me the importance of clearing energy between clients.
continues
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ORGANIC & WELLNESS
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CLEARING ENERGY
why
energy? Everything is made of energy. Einstein knew this long before the rest of us when he stated, “What we have called matter is energy, whose vibration has been lowered to being only perceptible to the senses.” Some energy is dense enough to be visible, such as with humans and earth. However it is the unseen energy matrix that connects us to each other. We have a symbiotic relationship
“ Positive or balanced energy is uplifting, helping us to feel at peace, vibrant and full of life. What kind of energy experience do you want to create for your clients? ”
with nature, in that we both consist of
|
2 oz Distilled Water 4 Drops Sage Essential Oil (CLEANSING) 2 to 4 Drops Rosemary Essential Oil (AWAKENING)
the visible light spectrum. The colors of
Now imagine that bits and pieces of
the rainbow are the same as the colors
this energy are left behind by everyone
of our inner rainbow, the chakra system.
w ho enter s a s pace. Negative or
4 Drops Bach Flower Rescue Remedy
Chakras are part of our subtle energy
unbalanced energy contributes to stress,
(REBALANCES, HEALS AND CALMS)
body, which fuels and surrounds our
anxiety, mental chatter, depression and
physical body in what is known as the
exhaustion. Positive or balanced energy
“aura.” Our aura gives people a sense of
is uplifting, helping us to feel at peace,
who we are before we even say a word.
vibrant and full of life. What kind of
It’s the force that connects us to
energy experience do you want to create
one another energetically.
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Sage Clearing Mist
JULY 2015
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for your clients?
Pour into a 2 oz spray bottle. Shake and mist around your room between clients.
SKINCARE RESULTS ARE TEMPORARY...
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O&W
energy clearing Create therapeutic spa experiences with these unique energy clearing elements.
solutions
Sound
Reiki Level 2
The vola-
Singing bowls,
Reiki is a Japanese technique to re-
tile oils from
tuning forks and
duce stress and promote healing.
certain plants
chimes all work
It is based on the idea that unseen
Essential Oils
make great
well to clear energy.
“life force energy� flows through us
energy clearing
They are methods of vibrational medicine
and gives us life. The exchange of
sprays. Sage
that heal and transform. Ring your instru-
energy can be transmitted hands-
has been used
ment of choice as you move throughout the
on or at a distance. If you have been
by Native Americans to
room. Let the sound reverberate as it clears
trained and attuned into Reiki level
clear energy, primarily
the energy. Don’t forget to include the cor-
2, you may use your Reiki level 2
by burning the bundled
ners. These instruments may also be used
symbol throughout the room to clear
herb. They knew that
during treatments.
energy instantly. You may also use
the energy of sage
Reiki attuned sprays that contain one
helps to ground, heal
or more of the essential oils listed
and clear negativity.
before.
Make your own sage clearing mist and avoid
Crystals
smoking up your room.
Quartz crystals and colorful
Shake the mixture and
gemstones emanate energy
spray throughout the
based on their color and
entire room from cor-
composition. Rinse your
ner to corner, as well
gemstones first under run-
as over the facial bed.
ning water for 30 to 60 sec-
Other excellent essen-
onds to clear the energy.
tial oils to use are frank-
Then place them through-
incense, sandalwood
out the room, including un-
and eucalyptus.
der the facial bed.
See Linda Bertaut speak live this month at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015!
Linda Bertaut is an author, speaker, award-winning beauty ex-
When clearing energy, remember what our re-
pert and Reiki master teacher. She specializes in bringing in-
lationship is with nature. We are not separate
ner beauty to the surface. Her lifetime passion for perform-
from nature, we are nature. Use the beauty of
ing makeovers led her to the beauty industry over 25 years ago.
nature to lift the energy in your space. Create
Bertaut is a contributing author to the Milady Standard Esthetics
an environment for protection and a healing
Advanced textbook on Reiki and wellness therapies for estheticians. She helps to
spa experience.
reinvent spas into beauty and healing centers. Contact Bertaut at 925.446.6284 or Linda@BertautBeauty.com.
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“Inspired by nature... Realized by science.”
Vitamin C + Plant & Fruit Stem Cells + Peptides + Botanicals & Essential Oils
(Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate)
Always in High Concentrations.
Experience Age Defying Results.
LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce .co m
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The Cocoon IR Wellness Pro allows for a more comfortable and enjoyable sauna experience than your clients have ever had before, by keeping their head outside the heat chamber. It offers vibrations ranging from delicate massage to deep penetration, temperature adjustments from ambient warmth to 170° F and cooling face fans. These elements improve endurance, promote stress relief, temporary relief from muscular aches and better overall health.
877.818.8877 wellness-usa.com
Therapeutic Effects for Home Care The new Celluma LITE from BioPhotas delivers the same powerful results as the Celluma PRO in a compact size for home-use by your clients between visits. It is placed over the face to treat facial skin conditions, or conformed to the body to treat painful muscle and joint issues.
714.838.1956 BioPhotas.com
Collagen Boosters Wrinkles, dark spots, reduced elasticity and breakouts start at the cellular level. Recellergy™ is a line of vitamin supplements specifically designed for skin care — delivering collagen-boosting and skin-saving nutrients directly to cells using Liposomal Encapsulation Technology. Recellergy™ transfers vital nutrients into cells, giving your clients firmer, more luminous skin from the inside out.
ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS
Organic & Wellness News
Simply Sauna
866.790.2107 recellergy.com
Earth Friendly Formulation Bon Vital® Organica™ is specifically designed to provide therapists and their clients with the highest, most essential quality product for the skin. The advanced, earth friendly formula is enriched with certified organic jojoba, olive oil, shea butter, aloe vera, and more. Infused with certified organic arnica and chamomile botanicals, it’s perfect for all modalities.
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800.253.6466 bonvital.com
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HIGHLY EFFECTIVE, RESULTS DRIVEN, AFFORDABLE MICRODERMABRASION UNITS. FINALLY.
Crystal microdermabrasion operating with our signature Turbo Flow Projection system.
Crystal-free microdermabrasion utilizing biocompatible, surgical grade, stainless abrasion tips.
Providing better quality, better value, and the best support since 1965. Call to learn more and get special offers.
LNEonline.com 1-800-552-0418 www.silhouettone.us
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Let’s Talk
MAKEUP With Jane Terry
Spa Director of SpaBlue in Del Mar, Calif. By Lindsay Cuker, National Accounts Sales Manager for Osmosis Pur Medical Skincare
Jane Terry took over the position of spa director at the luxurious SpaBlue in Del Mar, Calif., this year, bringing with her more than 20 years of experience in high-end retail and spa environments. Terry began her career as a massage therapist and esthetician, and has held management positions with an abundance of notable day spas.
Why is implementing makeup a necessary component of a spa menu? Makeup is the icing on the cake. It helps to complete the spa service and experience. Adding makeup shows off the great skin that guest is coming into the spa to achieve. Plus, using a wonderful mineral makeup collection helps to maintain healthy skin for the guest.
How can implementing makeup into a spa business generate revenue? Most women wear makeup, so it is something that appeals to the majority of guests. If a guest is buying
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good skin care products, they should also purchase great quality makeup. Also the educational perspective of teaching women the fundamentals of makeup helps to increase loyalty and revenue.
What tactics or creative ideas in the spa’s promotional strategy have helped make your makeup business a success? We offer special events to highlight our makeup line and hold classes teaching makeup applications for guests. Plus we offer guests complimentary touch-ups from the estheticians after each service.
How large is the makeup area compared to the rest of the spa? Our main focus in the spa is on our skin and body treatments, which occupy the most space for treatment rooms and retail products. However we have designed shelf space in our boutique for our makeup collection products, and have a makeup station set up in our gorgeous nail and beauty studio.
What kind of makeup treatments do you offer on the menu? What can you share that can help other spas who have implemented or are planning to implement a makeup business? Training for makeup is just as important as training and education for skin care. All staff (estheticians and front desk) need to be trained on our makeup line, including the qualities, benefits, and application techniques.
Why did you decide to implement makeup into the spa? Makeup is a service that complements the spa experience. It is meant to enhance a woman’s natural beauty, which is what we do every day with our spa and facial services!
Touch ups, special event and bridal makeup applications, plus party lashes and lash extensions.
How do you promote your makeup services? We include makeup applications in some of our larger spa packages, so guests can experience a variety of services for the complete spa experience. Also our makeup services are promoted after facial treatments by our estheticians.
Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment? Yes, and we are working with our team to ensure this happens with each guest.
How did you choose your makeup line? Our makeup line looks great and lasts all day, while also being good for the skin with antioxidants and peptides!
Do you have special promotions for makeup? We promote makeup services prior to popular wedding and event season, so right before summer and the winter holidays. Also we host makeover events at the spa, where guests can book complimentary makeup applications and are encouraged to purchase products to take home. n
What makeup services have the most success? Makeup touch-ups are the most popular with our guests.
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LET’S
GET REAL Go high definition with 3D eyebrows! by Rose Marie Beauchemin
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P
ermanent cosmetic techniques have continuously evolved, particularly in the application of eyebrows. Hard-edged, solid eyebrows are a thing of the past. Today, the realism of high definition eyebrows — also referred to as 3D — is requested by nearly all permanent makeup eyebrow clients. High definition eyebrows create the appearance of texture, dimension, depth and movement as opposed to flat, solid eyebrows. This is achieved by applying (tattooing) one hair at a time, sometimes with more than one color and needle configuration. Permanent eyebrows are convincing and incredibly realistic when applied with 3D techniques.
MASTERING THE SKILL There is tremendous artistry involved in the creation of 3D eyebrows, since the pigments used in permanent makeup (with the exception of white, which is opaque) are actually translucent, much like watercolors. Being a flat medium, special techniques are required to bring these pigments to life. There are several approaches to achieving the 3D effect: • 2-Step Process The two-step process is the easiest technique. On the first application, tattoo a soft, light background color, much like a powder look. You must select a light enough color for the background to allow for the contrast in the hair strokes. On the second visit (four to six weeks later), hair strokes can be applied using a darker shade than the initial background. This process allows for great dimension and realism. • Layering The ability to layer lifelike hairs one-by-one is key to the layering technique for the 3D effect. Placement is critical for achieving a convincing brow.
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LET’S GET REAL
Layering the hair strokes with different degrees of pressure and speed at the time of the initial procedure prevents the hair strokes from appearing too uniform. If the eyebrow hairs are tattooed too evenly and perfectly, they can appear contrived, much like a stitch. The hair strokes will heal with more subtlety with this technique for lighter blonde shades. • Hair Simulation In most instances, 3D eyebrows with hair simulation can be applied. The key to hair simulating techniques is creating depth and dimension. Otherwise, a flat, solid eyebrow is the result, which is an unsightly giveaway to a tattooed eyebrow. Pigment shades ranging from light brown to the deepest brown/black will heal with much more dimension using hair simulation. Most women request this technique, since it appears more natural and resembles the brows they once had. • Powder effect Occasionally, a “powder effect” technique can be used to create 3D eyebrows. This technique is best for clients who have some of the necessary eyebrow hairs in the front, arch and tails, and simply require a shading of color in between to create fullness. Regardless of the tool or method used to create 3D eyebrows, the results lie in the skills of the permanent makeup artist, just like a pair of shears in the hands of a master hair stylist.
RESULTS AND PRICING The duration of permanent 3D eyebrows depends greatly on the depth of pigment color used. Darker brow pigments last longer than lighter pigments. Blonde shades may require an annual color refresh, where mid-range shades can last about 18 months. The darkest brown shades can last between two and four years. 124
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Pricing for 3D eyebrows averages $500 to $800, which generally includes the touch up visit. Annual color refreshments may reflect only a portion of the initial fee, depending on the amount of time between visits.
QUICK AND PAINLESS
Topical anesthetics are applied for permanent eyebrow tattooing, making this procedure extremely comfortable and often virtually painless for the client. There is little to no downtime — 3D eyebrows can be applied on one’s lunch hour without being obvious or detected. However, the speed of the treatment varies depending on the artist’s level of experience. Complications are rare with an experienced permanent makeup artist, and brow infections are not typical. Scarring only occurs if the artist is too aggressive with the depth of their hair strokes, and this is only likely to occur with an artist who lacks experience. Fully healed results are generally seen in six to 10 days. Follow up visits are not recommended for four to six weeks, allowing skin time to fully recover.
CONCLUSION Permanent makeup has evolved through time from its origins in ancient civilization, such as the early dynasties
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throughout Asia to its present 3-dimensional state. This exciting development continues to advance. These 3D techniques that create such beautiful, natural looking results have re-awakened interest in permanent eyebrows.
KEY CANDIDATES FOR 3D EYEBROW TATTOOING • Clients who have lost their eyebrows due to chemotherapy • Alopecia sufferers • Clients with platinum eyebrows looking for definition • Clients with undefined eyebrows • Mature clients who are no longer able to see well enough to draw on a matching set of eyebrows
TOOLS/METHODS FOR 3D BROWS • Rotary machines (most popular) • Standard coil machines • Hand methods Both round and flat configurations of the needle groups are compatible with all of these tools and methods.
SEE YOU AT ICES PHILADELPHIA, OCTOBER 25 & 26
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Contraindications/Risky conditions • Those with Trichotillomania may produce some risk of infection, although this is rare. • Those with joint replacements or valve replacements, stents and pacemakers require pre-treatment medication from their doctors, along with medical clearance for the procedure. These artificial apparatuses have no antibodies, and any collection of bacteria can stop and manifest at these artificial points. • If a client is on a medication of concern, such as blood thinners, insulin, etc., then the client must obtain medical clearance and any medication adjustments from their doctor. Do not instruct your clients to stop taking any medication.
Rose Marie Beauchemin is the owner and director of education for the Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics. She brings her 25 years of experience and knowledge of makeup artistry and color theory into each training program offered at Beau. For more information, visit beauinstitute.com or call 888.763.2328. Contact Beauchemin at: rosemarie@beauinstitute.com.
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• Leave On Enzyme Serum
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•Stimulates Cell Regeneration W/ Roe Enzyme Extract • Tightens Fibroblastins & Refines Pores W/ L-Carnitine • Helps with Inflammation W/Beta Glucan & Copper
(800) 951-7005
www.halecosmeceuticals.com Info@halecosmeceuticals.com
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Royal Silhouette Total Serum
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Velvety Comfort, Long Lasting Kryolan Professional Make-Up’s new Lipstick Matt is available in 18 shades and has a natural shine in the packaging. However, once applied it is extremely matt but velvety in appearance and comfortable to wear. The smear-proof lipstick has a high pigmentation and is long lasting. The addition of vitamin E stimulates the skin’s repair mechanism.
800.KRYOLAN us.kryolan.com
Semi-dewy smoothness Osmosis Skincare introduces the new Long Wear Liquid Foundation with exclusive goji berry extract! This incredible foundation gives medium to full coverage and glides on smooth for an even complexion, with a semi dewy finish that will last all day. The Long Wear Liquid Foundation is great for all skin types, and will leave your clients looking and feeling flawless!
MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS
Image News
877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com
Groovy Length The Minkys® GROOVE LASH Collection increases lash width without adding weight. It’s grooved for a longer hold. This new structure allows the Groove Lash to sit perfectly on the natural lash, creating a stronger bond. It has the width and boldness of a .15mm lash with the weight and softness of a .11mm lash, and the width of boldness of a .20mm lash with the weight and softness of a .13mm lash.
888.670.9083 minkys.com
Glitzed, Spritzed and Glamorous Add a little glitz to your spritz? With Glow on the Go sunless tanning spray and Goddess Glitz high fashion tattoo jewelry by Infinity Sun, your clients can up the glam factor on their otherwise standard faux glow. All-natural, anti-aging ingredients impart a healthy, natural-looking tan, with an added radiance from these uniquely designed tattoos. Your clients just need to follow three easy steps to be on their way to their most glitzed and glammed!
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ADVERTISER INDEX Page Number
Reader Service No.
17............... Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts.......................... arcskincare.com............................................................... 120 23............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 125............. Athena Beauty........................................................ athenabeauty.com........................................................... 162 51............... Avery Graham......................................................... averygraham.com............................................................ 355 64............... Beau Institute Of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 43............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 22............... Biomani Scientific Skin Care.................................... biomaniskincare.com....................................................... 276 63............... Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................. 335 33............... Blinc, Inc.................................................................. blincinc.com.................................................................... 226 61............... Bon Vital.................................................................. bonvital.com................................................................... 265 46............... Carefree Naturals / Rubber Ducky.......................... rubberduckysunscreen.com............................................. 317 91............... Christine Schrammek.............................................. schrammek.com.............................................................. 166 95............... Circadia................................................................... circadia.com.................................................................... 101 132............. Dermapenworld...................................................... dermapenworld.com....................................................... 136 19............... Dermaware.............................................................. dermaware.com.............................................................. 256 129............. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 131............. Equipro Usa............................................................ equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 65............... France Laure........................................................... francelaure.com............................................................... 199 21............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 83............... Grandelash - Md..................................................... grandelash-md.com........................................................ 286 126............. Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................... halecosmeceuticals.com.................................................. 133 5................. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 13............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 15............... Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 26,27.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach........... longbeach.skincareshows.com 48,49.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia........... philadelphia.skincareshows.com 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 45,47.......... Le Mieux Cosmetics / PurErb................................. lemieuxcosmetics.com / purerbskincare.com.................... 294 117............. Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 93............... MEG 21................................................................... meg21.com..................................................................... 344 111............. Misencil................................................................... misencil.com................................................................... 287 56............... Nature Pure Labs.................................................... naturepure.com............................................................... 316 115............. Osmosis Skin Care.................................................. osmosisskincare.com....................................................... 111 64............... Postquam................................................................ postquamusa.com........................................................... 177 101............. Pure Fiji................................................................... purefiji.com..................................................................... 338 127............. Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 36,37.......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 35............... Revitalash................................................................ revitalash.com................................................................. 346 25............... Rhonda Allison........................................................ rhondaallison.com........................................................... 190 109............. Rocasuba / Rapidlash.............................................. rocasuba.com.................................................................. 224 44............... Saian....................................................................... saian.net.......................................................................... 165 31............... Satin Smooth........................................................... satinsmooth.com............................................................. 304 126............. Select Spa Source / Hairaway................................. resinebyhairaway.com...................................................... 253 41............... Sesha Skin Therapy................................................. seshaskin.com................................................................. 271 62............... SilcSkin.................................................................... silcskin.com..................................................................... 185 119............. Silhouettone............................................................ silhouettone.com............................................................. 192 8................. Sonage.................................................................... sonage.com.................................................................... 312 57............... Sothys..................................................................... sothys-usa.com.com........................................................ 306 59............... TiZo......................................................................... tizofusion.com................................................................. 305 99............... Vital Assist............................................................... vitalassist.com................................................................. 237 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242
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Re-write history with Many doctors, including Dr. Hasan El-Fakahany of Egypt, say Dermapen™ has helped them treat the signs of *: • • • • • • •
Ageing Fine lines & wrinkles Sun damage Hyperpigmentation Age spots Acral vitiligo Rosacea
• • • • • • •
Dilated capillaries Breakouts Acne Enlarged pores Milia Scars Stretch marks
Upgrades are back! Did you miss your opportunity to upgrade your device to Dermapen 3™ last time around? Well now is your chance! Back by popular demand, we are once again offering to upgrade your existing device to the one clients are asking for by name.
Trauma scar Result after 3 sessions Courtesy of Dr. Hasan El-Fakahany
They want Dermapen™ Treatments. Why offer anything less?
Mention "LNE" to receive a FREE HylaActive™ serum with your Dermapen 3™ Kit purchase! Visit
for more information.
Acne scarring Result after 1 treatment Courtesy of Dr. Abbas Al-Taiff
Call Us Toll Free: 1 (844) 4-DERMAPEN | +1 (954) 900-5901 (outside of the US) 132
Dermapen™, DPDermaceuticals™ Range, AOVN™ and DermapenWorld.com™ are trademarks of Equipmed Australia. 283 Mona Vale Road, Terrey Hills, NSW, 2084, Australia. EQUDPE2011a. 01/15.
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*These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.