LNE & Spa - December 2012 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

December 2012

$7.50

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CONTENTS DECEMBER 2 0 1 2

skin

VOLUME 27

Providing Happiness 23 The Expert’s Guide to Winter Skin Therapy 24 The Skin Whisperer 29 Beyond the Jars and Treatments 31 Keeping Alligator Skin at Bay 34 Demystifying Acne 37 Fall Into Winter 39 Sunburns in the Winter? 43 Skin News 44

The Expert’s Guide to Winter Skin Therapy

N U M BE R 1 2

Healthy, Wintry Spices to Boost the Body page 48

spa Stress Relief Spa News

Design Trends for 2013 47 Healthy, Wintry Spices to Boost the Body 48 To Wrap or Not to Wrap? 51 53 57

page 24

organic & wellness

Winter Beauty Alchemy 79 Walking Meditation 80 Ayurvedic Herbal Secrets 84 The Way to Wellness for Spa-Preneurs 87 I Want to Look Younger! 89 Support Workplace Wellness 90 Aranwa Hotels Resorts & Spas, Peru 94 Organic & Wellness News 97

Attracting Clients Online page 60

business

QCS for External and Internal Customers 59 Attracting Clients Online 60 Eliminate Negativity in the Spa 63 Recharge Your Clients and Your Business in 2013 Social Media Marketing On the Cutting-Edge Relax and Loosen Up Biz News

image

65 68 71 73 76

Foundation: Prescription for a Flawless Finish 100 Fabulous and Festive 101 Transform Your Makeup Business 105 Image News 107

Fabulous and Festive step by step guide page 101

Aranwa Hotels Resorts & Spas, Peru page 94

extras

From the Editor 6 Spa of the Month: Creative Chakra Spa and Yoga Studio 10 Recap: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia, PA 21 Calendar of Events 110 Advertisers’ Index 114

Cover

Hair: Mark Leeson Makeup: Melanie Arter Photography: Paul Scala Styling: Bernard Connolly Products: Goldwell

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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from the

EDITOR

S WE REACH THE END OF 2012, IT IS TIME TO reflect upon the past 12 months. It is time to assess the outcomes of the goals, decisions and efforts we have made, and what we have achieved over the course of the year. Many of us have shifted and transitioned into a new position, either personally or professionally. As we say goodbye to 2012, let’s have a toast to the coming New Year—full of endless possibilities and opportunities! The final issue of LNE & Spa for 2012 focuses on winding down at the end of the year, particularly from the hustle and bustle of the season. It is time to recharge your batteries and rejuvenate your clients. With so many festivities and celebrations happening now, it is easy to cater to your guests with seasonal treatments and glamorous makeovers. As I embark on my third year as the editor-in-chief of LNE & Spa, I reflect on the various components of my position. It continues to be an amazing journey, and I am grateful for what I have learned, how I have grown professionally and all the wonderful people I have met along the way. I want to thank each of you for being avid readers of LNE & Spa, and for attending The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa trade shows to further your professional growth. As professionals, we share a deep and abiding love for our industry! Here are my tips for a successful crossover into 2013! 1. Celebrate and enjoy your success. 2. Learn from the past. 3. Take risks—seize the day! 4. Connect with others, and create partnerships that will bring value to your life and your business. 5. Love what you do and follow your dreams. I wish you all a very happy, healthy and successful New Year! n

Retail 1oz.

—Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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Art Director Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Director of Sales Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Assistant Mayli Bueno mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Rob Trow • Ben Johnson, M.D. Lake Louise • Nina Curtis • Diane Buccola

Contributors Rhonda Allison Linda Bertaut Diane Buccola Maria Camille Angela Carlton Marlene Chism Mórag Currin Nina Curtis Donna Dodier Teal Druda Jennifer Gibson

Stacy Hanes Lance Harris Jimm Harrison Kristi L. Haynes Camille Hoheb Anne Martin Leslie McGwire Zuleika Morales Tracy M. Pfeifer, M.D. Susan Preston

Cristina Proana-Carrion Melanie Sachs Jamie Scalise Sudhir M. Shah Louis Silberman Dori Soukup David Suzuki Sandie West Amanda Clinton Winter Monte Zwang

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.5starformulators.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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SPA

OF THE MONTH

THE ART OF BALANCE CREATIVE CHAKRA SPA AND YOGA STUDIO, MARINA DEL REY, CA by Sandie West

CEO Sandie West

THE COUPLES PACKAGES AT CREATIVE CHAKRA SPA ARE AMONG THE MOST ROMANTIC AVAILABLE IN LOS ANGELES, HARNESSING THE POWER OF THE BEACH AND THE OCEAN.

CREATIVE CHAKRA SPA AND YOGA STUDIO in Los Angeles is California’s leading holistic spa and a premier West Coast destination, now celebrating 14 years in business. Spa Finder refers to this beautiful beachside location on the Marina Peninsula as “The Renowned Creative Chakra Spa.” This leader in the holistic health and fitness spa industry of the U.S. was established in 1998 as a high end Hollywood production massage service in the movie industry, and featured a handcrafted aromatherapy product line. Creative Chakra Spa opened over 10 years ago on an oasis in Marina Del Rey, just steps away from the beach. The product line grew into a range that now encompasses Chakra and Ayurvedic items, aromatherapy, teas, elixirs and remedies for the skin, hair and body. As CEO of Creative Chakra Spa, I do a fair amount of work in the movie business, visiting several celebrities on set each month.

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I began my career as a massage therapist, personal trainer and yoga instructor, and I appreciate the necessity of taking certain steps to achieve optimal health, and combining wellness and green awareness. These twin passions of mine are the foundations of Creative Chakra Spa. The unique boutique spa consists of a tea room overlooking the Pacific Ocean, an aromatherapy bar with retail, a yoga studio, several en suite treatment rooms, outdoor and indoor relaxation areas, a lanai, garden infrared sauna, hydrotherapy room, outdoor steam room, garden areas, sun lounge and outdoor couples cabanas. Creative Chakra Spa specializes in holistic therapies, unique romantic couples spa packages, spa parties, eco-friendly spa facilities, yoga classes, empowerment seminars and aromatherapy, creating a healing path customized to meet clients’ personal needs and health. continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

ANTI-AGING BREAKTHROUGH

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Salon and Spa Owners: Are you ready to join the 1000’s of spas worldwide that are getting amazing anti-aging results with HydroPeptide? Call us today and find out how we can help you grow your business and make your spa the experts in anti-aging peptides. Call us at 1.800.932.9873 or join us Monday’s at 10am PST for our webinar on Peptides. Join at www.HydroPeptide.com/Webinars.

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YOGA IS OFTEN HELD ON THE BEACH OR IN A STUDIO, AND INCLUDES A GUIDED MEDITATION BEFORE GUESTS ARE WHISKED AWAY TO A CANDLELIT ROOM.

At Creative Chakra Spa and Yoga Studio, private use of all facilities is guaranteed. With the broad range of luxurious and therapeutic spa therapies offered, it is not necessary to separate the client booking—whether guests came as a couple or as a spa party as large as 35! Guests are not charged more for the complete tranquility of having the space to themselves, with staff attending to their every need.

Couples packages The couples packages at Creative Chakra Spa are among the most romantic available in Los Angeles, harnessing the power of the beach and the ocean. Packages include a delicious elixir, a healing custom designed massage in a spacious ensuite room with an adjoining hydrotherapy room, private bathroom and showers. Plan a day of relaxation with access to the beach, which is open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. The whole experience is a romantic escape, designed to create intimate memories and a mini-vacation from the urban jungle of L.A. Chakra provides beach mats, teas or elixirs to be enjoyed for a romantic stroll on the beach before or af-

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ter treatments. Sometimes guests just enjoy the ocean porch swing, listening to the bubbling sound of the fountains on the tea terrace and watching the sun set over the water in the winter months. They enjoy having some quiet time to breathe in the negative ions of the ocean, which boosts the impact of the treatments. Most packages conclude with a delicious meal, savored privately in the garden lounge area or the lanai by the fireside at night under the stars. Couples find this experience particularly special, and are truly delighted by all that is provided. Champagne, chocolate lava cake or raw gourmet food are included in the more lavish couples packages. Late or early bookings can be requested, and massages can be done on the beach in the summer. Guests have an opportunity to try the Turkish hammam inspiration. That includes an aromatherapy lemon and eucalyptus hydrotherapy soak, followed by an invigorating lemongrass and basil salt scrub and custom designed 75-minute massage. Couples may also design their own packages. Popular choices are detox mud wraps combined with Indian head massage and reflexology, as well as private couples yoga sessions with massage and infrared sauna. Yoga is often held on the beach or in a studio, and includes a guided meditation before guests are whisked away continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

Presented by:

Endorsed by:

THE TRENDSETTER OF BEAUTY

APRIL 7 & 8, 2013 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Miami Beach is THE event of the year in Florida for spa professionals. The two-day conference offers dynamic education, cutting-edge companies and opportunities to build relationships with leaders in the spa industry from around the globe. Estheticians, therapists, spa owners and resort directors sharpen their knowledge, advance their skills and collaborate with leading companies and manufacturers to create a dynamic, successful and thriving industry!

$60

2-day all-inclusive admission $75 when you register after 03/15/2013

$40

1-day all-inclusive admission $50 when you register after 03/15/2013

ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION INCLUDES: • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Image & Beauty Seminar • Business Education & Networking Lounge presented by The Spa Buzz and Green Spa Network • AIA-Aesthetics International Association • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall including the Wellness & Organic Pavilion • The Green Spa Network Village

C O N TA C T U S T O D AY F O R Y O U R F R E E S H O W P R O G R A M : 1 . 8 0 0 . 4 7 1 . 0 2 2 9 • W W W. L N E O N L I N E . C O M 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

spa of the month|creative chakra spa and yoga studio

CREATIVE CHAKRA SPA OFFERS ANCIENT THERAPIES FROM AROUND THE GLOBE, PRE-DATING WESTERN MEDICINE.

to a candlelit room and placed in the hands of a skilled professional massage therapist. Cabana massages with ocean breezes completed with soft, wafting music are especially popular during the hot summer season. Creative Chakra Spa is even developing a television presence. In January of 2013, it will be featured on the hit television series Millionaire Matchmaker for the second time, highlighting Creative Chakra Spa’s facial packages for couples. It is no coincidence that Chakra is appearing on this and other popular shows. Perry Farrell, a band member of Jane’s’ Addiction, enjoyed a Couples Fireside Massage with his wife on the show Married to the Rock, and the spa has been featured on E! News, MTV, America’s Next Top Model and the Discovery Channel, to name a few!

Ancient healing Throughout history, every culture has created their own unique form of healing. Creative Chakra Spa features treatments inspired by many of these cultures, including Ayurveda from India, Grecian water therapies, aromatherapy originat-

ing from biblical times to the barely discovered wealth of therapies from the Amazon Rainforest. These therapies are luxurious, but also serve as a medicinal function focusing on the longterm healing and detoxification process of the body. Creative Chakra Spa offers ancient therapies from around the globe, pre-dating Western medicine. When possible, all ingredients used are organic, fair trade and purchased from indigenous tribes to support their cultures and sustain green commerce. Aromatherapy is anti-viral, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal. Aromatherapy is integral to all products used at Creative Chakra Spa. They are made fresh for spa therapies, and this integral approach to the wellness of the body works in accordance with the environment. This is one of the reasons that Creative Chakra Spa has prospered and maintained valuable, long-term relationships with clients, and is recognized as a trendsetter of holistic awareness throughout the West Coast. I am a founding member of The Holistic Chamber of Commerce, which is growing on a national scale. The Balinese deep abdominal massage uses native rice power and rose Otto. The Crystal Chakra facial is inspired by reiki, and is hugely popular with clients across a range of age groups, from teens to mature adults. Creative Chakra Spa’s custom handcrafted collection of products includes an Ayurvedic line, a Chakra line and an aromatherapy line, each of which include a full range of spa, bath, skin, hair and body products. The staff team includes a clinical practitioner of Ayurveda, an ancient Indian practice of enabling the body to fight illness through therapies, massages, herbal medicines, diet control, exercise and yoga. Long lasting body work, centered around the heart and intuitive touch, is the focus of each of the talented therapists, who are usually certified in at least 16 modalities. The spa rewards its loyal customers with discounted spa wellness plans and preferential booking times.

Retreats Spa parties, which range in size from three to 35 women (including male spa parties), are a regular occurrence at Creative Chakra Spa and Yoga Studio—and they are always a lot of fun! The size of the property naturally lends itself to these occasions. Business retreats and empowerment seminars (seating for up to 65 is availcontinues Page 16 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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STRONG TIES WITH LOCAL RESTAURANTS AND BUSINESSES ENABLE CLIENTS TO USE SPECIAL DISCOUNTS ON THESE SERVICES AND HOTELS.

able) are regularly held here. Educating clients on health matters is integrated into the premise at Creative Chakra Spa; we are dedicated to sharing knowledge whenever possible. The first private film screening for the movie The Secret was held at Chakra, which included a dinner party hosting 45 influential people in the film and spiritual industry. Two exquisite penthouses are available as vacation rentals above the spa, truly encompassing a complete serene retreat perfect for such an event.

The team at Creative Chakra Spa understands how hard it is to make it to a yoga class while juggling work and family. That is why we offer private sessions, to allow clients to select a time that suits their personal needs. These sessions are carefully tailored. The session can last 90 minutes, and may be shared between as many as four friends. Clients who take advantage of this include marathon training groups, couples with specific time constrictions due to work or women who are seeking a prenatal yoga class to take with close friends. Whatever the client’s goals are, “Yoga Anytime” is a great option for those struggling to maintain peace in today’s increasingly hectic environment. The unique private sessions focus on empowering clients to create their own practice, allowing them the space to flourish, nourish the body and build self-awareness with principles that impact every facet of their lives. People often don’t realize that yoga combined with massage or infrared sauna aids the body in ridding itself of the lactic acid that collects in the body during exercise. In the article, “Ten Things You Should Know About Lactic Acid,” Thomas Fahey, Ed.D., a professor of exercise physiology at California State University at Chico, writes: “Scientists have discovered that lactic acid plays a critical role in generating energy during exercise. Far from being the bad boy of metabolism, lactic acid provides fuels for many tissues, helps use dietary carbohydrates, and serves as fuel for liver production of glucose and glycogen. In fact, lactic acid is nature’s way of helping you survive stressful situations.” But when the lactic acid accumulates to high levels in blood and muscle, fatigue sets in. These post-workout aches and pains can be prevented with massage, and also by sitting in the infrared sauna. Yoga helps to gently circulate the lactic continues

Yoga therapy The balance cultivated at Creative Chakra Spa parallels the original intentions for yoga, which are to be centered, to find peace within and to cultivate consciousness in our everyday lives and actions. Clients never fail to enthuse about the transformational energy that they feel envelopes the spa. Page 18 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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Eco-friendly spa The Creative Chakra Spa and Yoga Studio was a sponsor and partner of the Yoga Pavilion at The Green Festival last year, a national sustainability event held in Los Angeles. This year, I will be on one of the main stages showcasing the spa’s green products, and sharing my knowledge on how to create spa rituals at home that benefit personal and environmental well-being. The carbon blueprint for the spa building is 1.70 tons of carbon dioxide, which is astonishing considering all of the facilities. Changes don’t always mean high costs. The infrared sauna costs about $6 a month to run, compared to the typical $42 bill of a regular sauna. Chakra’s massage therapists live in the local area, and bike to work 90 percent of the time. With such close proximity to the ocean, there is no need for air conditioning (though we do have it available). The hydrotherapy tub is cleaned with ultraviolet and ozone, producing oxygen in the process. Only the barest trace of chemicals necessary are used. The outdoor steam room uses concentrated essential oils, and is cleaned and ventilated after each individual use and sprayed down on the patio. In regular steam rooms, the essential oils are sometimes diluted with alcohol in order to permeate the large volume of air. Non-toxic sprays are made onsite for windows, mirrors and glass surfaces. Water coolers are contained in porcelain dispensers, so drinking water is not sitting in plastic for weeks. They are refilled with Chakra’s own water filter system. Thus, visitors to Chakra are not only enhancing their own health, but that of the planets as well. Maintaining a low carbon footprint is achieved through a variety of means: energy efficient bulbs, ultraviolet sanitizers, steam cleaned floors, products made onsite with fresh ingredients (nothing pre-packaged) and radiant heaters, which are energy efficient and effective. No disposable slippers or paper towels are used. There is also a washer and dryer onsite, so all linens and towels are cleaned upon use. Page 20 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Community I am the personal massage therapist for Jesse Billauer, the founder of the non-profit organization Life Rolls On. As a professional surfer, Billauer was rendered a paraplegic after a surfing accident at the age of 17. Creative Chakra Spa sponsors and actively takes part in every LRO event. They Will Surf Again is one such event, where disabled surfers take the waves and provide massage for the participants and guests. Creative Chakra Spa held a fundraiser with music, spa therapies and classes, and a check was presented at this year’s event at the Venice Skate Park. It is such an inspiring feeling to see individuals with disabilities get out of their wheelchair and surf for the first time. Maintaining and cultivating positive connections with the community is of vital importance. There is something special about using locally sourced food for catering events and being able to partner with clients on places to eat, hire bikes, surfboards or even kayaks, another aspect of the kind of personalized service being offered. Strong ties with local restaurants and businesses enable clients to use special discounts on these services and hotels. Some of the spa personnel include board members of the Venice Chamber of Commerce, an organization with whom Chakra has a very active relationship. Several Chamber mixer events have been held at the spa. I am a board member of the Marina Peninsula Neighborhood Association, as well as a voting member of BAFTA, SAG and AFTRA, which is why Creative Chakra Spa became the holistic base for a range celebrity clients. The connections with the origins of Creative Chakra Spa benefit the spa industry by getting the holistic and eco-friendly message out there from a high profile angle. n

Sandie West, CEO of Creative Chakra Spa & Yoga Studio of Marina Del Rey, CA is a spa connoisseur. She grew up in London, where her family owned an Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa. West is passionate about fitness. She performed stunts as the Pink Power Ranger in the 1990s, and now shares her passion for fitness as a yoga teacher. West blogs about Los Angeles spas for Examiner.com, and occasionally for Spa Finder on the topic of practicing yoga for medicinal purposes. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photos courtesy of Creative Chakra Spa and Yoga Studio

acid out of the muscle tissue to the liver for processing. Asanas (poses) are another method for reducing waste products in the body such as uric acid. Instructors at Creative Chakra Spa share an abundance of knowledge, including guidance for following a yogic diet, which includes natural foods like fresh vegetables, herbal tea, fruits, homemade clear soup and plenty of water.

RESILIENT PERSEVERANCE! THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA, PHILADELPHIA HAD A STRONG TURNOUT DESPITE IMPENDING STORM THE 2012 INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia, held on October 28 at the Pennsylvania Con vention Center, was an event that demonstrated the true dedication of the professionals in our industry. The final congress of 2012 marked the first time in history that The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa closed one day early. This, of course, was due to safety concerns about the impending natural disaster “Sandy.” Despite the imminent storm, thousands of attendees

BY AMANDA CLINTON WINTER

Michael Marcus booth

Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner, show host

master makeup artist Tim Maurer

attendees excited to be in Philadelphia

came from all over the Northeast to attend the congress, and to show their support and dedication to the industry. As it does each year, the Philadelphia congress offered an intimate atmosphere, and a great deal of top quality networking took place. An especially caring, bonding atmosphere was sensed at this year’s show, as many attendees and vendors alike were concerned for one another’s safety in the coming days. This communal spirit was apparent in every aspect of the show. Host Michelle D’Allaird’s energetic spirit permeated the show. General Session sponsor Michael Pugliese personally greeted attendees,

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Éminence workshop

Longmi Lashes booth

Rhonda Allison booth

A Natural Difference booth

PCA booth

handing each person a complimentary gift bag containing Circadia’s MicroExfoliating Honey Cleanser. The General Session was very well attended. Every speaker received rave reviews from attendees for the valuable insight they shared. After the opening ceremony, Michael Ibbott kicked things off with his demonstration on “MorphoLympatic Drainage for the Face and Body.” Eileen Strong followed with a lecture on “Treating Stubborn Acne From the Inside Out.” Alma Bocanegra demonstrated how to administer the “Myofascial/PNF Body Treatment With continues

lash demo

Michael Pugliese

HydroPeptide booth

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 21

We want to extend a sincere thank you to all of our vendors and attendees who were a part of The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia this year. We especially appreciate your decision to join us despite the looming weather conditions. Thank you for recognizing the value that the congress has to your professional growth and to our industry as a whole. We look forward to seeing you next year, when we will be back on our usual two-day schedule!

Honey.” Peter T. Pugliese, M.D. discussed “Glycation and the Skin.” Tim Maurer finished the General Session by engaging the audience with an enthusiastic and lively demonstration on how to maximize beauty for individuals of every age group in “Getting Better all the Time: Beauty for Your 40s, 50s, 60s and Beyond!” The new programs and seminars were very well received. Business minded-professionals took advantage of an expanded program targeting issues of specific relevance to them. These new features included the Medical Spa Business Seminar, the Cutting-Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar and the Business Education & Networking Program, which was standing room only.

Bella Schneider of 5 Star Formulators

Osmosis booth

Bon Vital booth

The complete 2013 schedule for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is: Miami Beach, FL, April 7-8; Dallas, TX, May 5-6; Long Beach, CA, September 29-30; Philadelphia, PA, October 27-28.

Eve Taylor booth

Irene Stuckey, A Natural Difference educator

Chado En booth

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Germaine de Capuccini booth

Circadia team

*For those who are interested in donating to the cause to help victims of Sandy, the Professional Beauty Association has set up a Disaster Relief Fund, accessible at http://probeauty.org/disaster-relief-fund/. We also encourage those who are able to contribute to the Red Cross efforts at www.redcross.org. n

Amanda Clinton Winter is the assistant editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Email her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

HydraFacial booth

Terra Dolce booth

Minky’s Lashes

Follow The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa on:

Pure Inventions booth

attendees pack the trade show floor

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

skin

providing happiness

photo: Lev Dolgachov/Shutterstock.com

by Zuleika Morales

AS SERVICE PROVIDERS, NOT ONLY do we need to be aware of the level of comfort that our guests experience; we must also be aware of the quality of service we provide. Most importantly, we must ensure a level of service to our guests that will all but guarantee their happiness. Admittedly, I know that some guests seem impossible to accommodate, and these guests can at times make it quite difficult to do what we do. As the saying goes in this industry, the show must go on—even if you’re feeling stressed, overwhelmed and overworked. First things first! Breathe … If you don’t take a breather from time to time, you will end up stressed beyond belief! I. It may be a cliché, but the first step is admitting when you’re feeling tired, overwhelmed or stressed. You need to recognize that this is holding you back before you can change it and move in the right direction. Many of us want to provide the highest level of quality work so badly that we ignore what we’re feeling, only to end up making the matter worse in the end. Your body will eventually start turning off—and like a demanding fouryear-old, it will insist on your full attention. When the body feels like it needs some downtime, it lets you know. Your immune system weakens, and you catch a cold. Recovery may require a couple of days in bed watching your favorite romantic comedies and eating your favorite food, or maybe just making more day to day efforts to take care of yourself. II. Reassess your situation often. Doing so makes you pay attention to the little things you do and how you do them. What are you doing wrong? More importantly, what are you doing right? Focus your attention on the positives and accentuate them. Reassess your surroundings.

Do not exceed your allotted service times. It feels nice to give your clients a little extra sometimes and that’s fine, but you must establish boundaries. Do you have everything you need? Is your habitat clean, comfortable, organized and esthetically pleasing to you?

Admit, reassess, change Take steps to change your routine and habits. These small, simple steps can significantly improve the day. 1. Eat. Have healthy snacks available and accessible. 2. Drink. It is pertinent to drink plenty of water or sports drinks with electrolytes and minerals. 3. Schedule regular “me time” appointments. Try booking a break or necessary relaxation time for yourself every day. 4. This one may sound silly, but remember to use the restroom regularly. A restroom break may seem impossible, but resisting the urge to go can cause stress, unnecessary tension and discomfort. Working through this discomfort can affect the quality of service you provide for your guests. 5. Rethink the approach you take and the procedures to the job you do. Do not exceed your allotted service times. It feels nice to give your clients a little extra sometimes and that’s fine, but you must establish boundaries. I truly believe you can give an amazing service within the time allotted, and make it feel like a much longer service for your client.

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Make friends at work and create an image of a colleague who is helpful and caring. You may be surprised to learn that your coworkers also experience a lot of the same stresses that you do. This network can really help relieve that stress. Keep in mind that it is best to be honest and up front with potential new managers during the interview process if you are pursuing new employment opportunities. Let them know your situation, and do not pretend that you will be able to meet their requirements if you really cannot meet them. If you are the right person for them, then those requirements may turn out to be flexible. There is no reason you should accept employment in a place where you will not be happy or are unable to do your best. Both your reputation and your clients will be affected by that foolish decision. By making a few changes and taking better care of yourself, you will find yourself following a more positive approach to handling problems at work, and you will be in a better place the next time you encounter that unhappy guest. n

Zuleika Morales was born into the beauty industry, as the daughter of a cosmetologist. At 19, Morales became the youngest therapist at PGA National Resort & Spa, where she later became the lead esthetician for more than 10 years. Morales’ work encompasses a wide variety of body services, with a specialization in skin care. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 23

photo: Prochkailo/Shutterstock.com

Page 24 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

skin

Apply an old-fashioned oatmeal mask made from raw oats, eggs and honey.

THE EXPERT’S GUIDE TO

photo: Penny Hillcrest/Shutterstock.com

WINTER SKIN THERAPY

DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU LIVE, WINTER can mean snow-capped trees, hooded parkas, frostbitten fingers—or simply temperatures that are referred to as “sweater weather.” No matter what winter looks like in your region, the seasonal change is likely wreaking havoc on your clients’ skin. A significant dip in temperatures can bring on or exacerbate conditions like dry, cracked skin and even acne. Staying indoors doesn’t help much because the skin’s moisture is being leached out by the drying artificial heat. Skin can also be affected by holiday stress, and a simple indulgence like sipping on red wine to relax can actually trigger rosacea! So, what can your clients do to keep their skin picture perfect this season? They can listen to the advice of a skin care expert—you! As an esthetic professional, don’t be afraid to show off your expertise and suggest customized solutions for each of your clients. It will benefit their skin and increase your overall sales.

Soothing seasonal treatments To make your spa services stand out from the rest, provide clients with a unique experience that combines seasonal elements and organic ingredients. For the winter months, design signature treatments that will soothe your clients’ skin and psyche. For example, appeal to the client who needs moisture and relaxation by creating an earthy, back-to-basics treatment called “The Holiday-Relief Facial.” Begin the facial with a thorough cleansing, using a naturally peppermint-scented cleanser followed by a homemade ginger-cinnamon salt scrub (a Web search will turn up several yummysmelling recipes) for gentle exfoliation. Complete the treatment by applying an old-fashioned oatmeal mask made from raw oats, eggs and honey. If you are not a fan of these scents or ingredients, you can create your own magical mixtures! Creating signature treatments that incorporate special ingredients associated with each season continues

BY LOUIS SILBERMAN

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 25

skin|the expert’s guide to winter skin therapy

Treating rosacea FOR CLIENTS SUFFERING FROM ROSACEA, AN INTENSE PULSED LIGHT (IPL) PHOTOFACIAL MAY BE THE HOLIDAY MIRACLE TREATMENT THEY ARE LOOKING FOR. is a great way to add interest to a service menu. This can make a big difference when it comes to establishing a “point of difference” and gaining an edge over the competition.

Wipe out winter skin damage with advanced treatments For the client who prefers quick results over quiet relaxation, more intense treatments can provide a number of options. From peels to pulsing lasers, advanced esthetic treatments can work wonders on winter-worn skin.

Treating dry skin Dry skin can benefit from a glycolic/lactic acid peel. Glycolic acid is a natural alpha-hydroxy acid found in sugar cane, and lactic acid is derived from milk. The combination of the two acids penetrates deeply to slough off dry skin while increasing moisture and stimulating collagen production. It also softens the appearance of fine lines. Don’t forget to inform your client that this treatment can be used on other areas in addition to the face. In particular, it’s great for exfoliating and hydrating dry, cracked heels and feet—a common client complaint during winter months.

For clients suffering from rosacea, an intense pulsed light (IPL) photofacial may be the holiday miracle treatment they are looking for. The brief and painless light-based treatment uses a series of light beams that penetrate the skin to reduce the appearance of redness. The procedure is noninvasive, and requires virtually no downtime. For added benefit, recommend combining the photofacial with a radiofrequency treatment. Radiofrequency treatments use short pulses of heat energy to penetrate the skin’s dermal layer. This stimulates collagen production, resulting in smoother, tighter skin. If you are not currently able to offer these treatments, acquiring the skills needed to offer advanced procedures is not as difficult or lengthy as you may think. In most states, esthetic professionals are not required to have a medical background to perform treatments like laser skin rejuvenation and chemical peels. However, comprehensive education and training are beneficial to understanding the proper techniques and safety protocols associated with these procedures. continues intense pulsed light treatments

Winter acne is brought on by dry weather and can become worse if your client is using a harsh facial cleanser and skimping on moisturizer. Similar to the treatment of dry skin, a glycolic/lactic peel can improve the skin’s texture and reduce the appearance of acne. If your client has acne scars, he or she may benefit from receiving a fractional laser treatment. This treatment utilizes a standard beam of laser light that is split into thousands of microbeams. The beams target the irregular skin pigment to reveal a more even-toned complexion. Page 26 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo courtesy of the National Laser Institute

Treating winter acne

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skin|the expert’s guide to winter skin therapy Completing a comprehensive medical esthetics course is a shorter process than becoming a licensed esthetician. Regulations vary by state, but the industry-accepted standard in laser education is two weeks of combined classroom and clinical hands-on education. A chemical peel course can be completed in just one day.

‘Tis the season for selling (and upselling)

Louis Silberman is the president of National Laser Institute, a leading school specializing in cosmetic laser education. An expert in medical esthetics, Silberman developed the most highly respected laser training programs in North America. For more information, visit www.nlionline.com or call 800.982.6817. Page 28 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo: Alex Smith/Shutterstock.com

CONSIDER THE PEPPERMINTSCENTED FACIAL— IT’S A GREAT TIE-IN TO OTHER WINTER SPECIALS THAT UTILIZE SEASONAL STAPLES, INCLUDING INGREDIENTS LIKE PUMPKIN AND PINE. YOU CAN EMAIL THESE SPECIALS TO YOUR CLIENTS AT THE START OF EVERY SEASON.

As an esthetician, you were likely drawn to this career because you have a passion for skin care, and love to help people look and feel their best. However, one of the most important factors in developing (and maintaining) a successful esthetic practice is your sales technique. Even though you may not consider yourself to be much of a salesperson, certain simple techniques can help you increase revenue and make your clients’ visits to you even more enjoyable. One good way to boost your sales potential and keep your services fresh is to reevaluate your branding methods at the start of every season. Each season ushers in new “trends.” For example, spring is associated with sun, warmth, renewal and hope; fall is associated with pumpkins, leaves, harvest and comfort. Tailor your services to match the mood of the season. Consider the peppermint-scented facial that I mentioned earlier in this article—it’s a great tie-in to other winter specials that utilize seasonal staples, including ingredients like pumpkin and pine. You can email these specials to your clients at the start of every season. Additionally, be sure to note all of the holidays that occur within the season. As we approach the new year, it is a great time to offer prep packages for New Year’s Eve parties and “New Year, New You” packages that offer a series of treatments designed to deliver visible wrinkle reduction and improvements in skin firmness. From laser wrinkle reduction to body wraps, put a holiday spin on your treatments! Once you have packaged your services in a unique way, it’s time to evaluate how well your retail sales are doing. If you are not selling a good amount of take-home products, you are losing out on a major source of income. I think the best way to approach selling is to look at it as a way of solving problems: Think about the skin problems your clients have, and think about what it takes to help them achieve the best possible results. Most likely, your clients will need a combination of services and products, not just one esthetic procedure. Upselling by recommending home care products can be a win-win situation for yourself and your clients. Just remember, you don’t want to be pushy or aggressive. You want to be helpful. This is as simple as offering suggestions and providing information about what will help your clients look and feel their best. That entails educating your clients on the benefits of these products, how often they will need to replace them, and how they will have to adjust their regimen for each season to keep their skin looking its best. n

by Angela Carlton

skin|the skin whisperer Pamela Bond PAMELA BOND IS KNOWN AS A “skin whisperer.” Clients of the esthetician don’t mind her speaking quietly during their facial, because they understand that Pamela isn’t talking to them, but rather to their skin. Bond believes that skin speaks, and that she has learned its secret language! “I just sit back and follow the directions,”

ishes caused by bacteria. It all depends on what the skin has to say. Bond’s thoughts on skin care have come a long way in the last 29 years. She grew up in a small town outside of Dallas, TX, where she worked as a hairstylist early in her career. One day, when she was walking by an Elizabeth Arden Red Door spa, she saw that they were

photos courtesy of Pamela Bond

For Bond, beauty isn’t just skin deep. She focuses on treating the client from the inside in order to make a visible difference on the outside.

she explains. “I don’t do the same treatment on each client, because each skin has its own message.” She says part of it is intuition; it is often something she just “feels” while she is examining the skin. And of course, there are the physical messages. A dull, tight epidermis that cries out about it’s need of moisture receives a hydration and nourishment treatment in Bond’s expert hands. A former sun worshipper wishing to wipe away her old summer sins visits Bond, who layers on a high-powered fruit mask before blasting them with red and amber lights to help boost collagen and lighten discoloration. If the client shows up dotted with acne, Bond might whip up a natural concoction with an ingredient like manuka honey to curb blem-

seeking a facialist to hire, and that they would provide training for the position in New York! In 1983, Bond landed the job—and it changed her life. “Once I laid my hands on my first face, I knew I was home,” she declares. But in the same way that homes need renovation, Bond’s practice eventually did as well. After years of giving clinical facials, she felt inspired to start incorporating all aspects of mind, body and spirit into her treatments. She became a certified holistic health coach, and even studied under Deepak Chopra (which could be the reason why she sends some highly stressed clients home with a healthy prescription for meditation). For Bond, beauty isn’t just skin deep. She focuses on treating the client from

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

the inside in order to make a visible difference on the outside. Just like a medical doctor during a patient exam, Bond meticulously reviews the client’s history before she even looks at their skin. “We go over diet, stress, exercise, hobbies and even what their daily thoughts are,” she says. “Many estheticians stick to the surface and what is in the bottle. That addresses only 25 percent of the problem.” Bond’s biggest defining philosophy is that food has a cascading effect on skin. When one eats a lot of processed junk foods, it is going to show up on their face. Bond is so focused on the importance of feeding the face that she often goes grocery shopping with willing clients to show them which foods can give their skin a big boost.

The skin tells all The day I went to Bond for a facial, I was getting ready to travel to Spain for a family wedding, and I wanted a glow fit for a bride. Bond welcomed me with her warm Southern twang and got down to business. She spent almost 45 minutes digging into my daily life. It quickly became apparent that as a result of my busy and erratic continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 29

skin

Although Bond makes her own skin care line, she is not a product pusher. I needed a new cleanser, so I started snooping around the display of lotions and potions. Once again, there is combined thinking when it comes to Bond’s products. She likes to mix science along with a good dose of nature. She uses naturally harvested plant ingredients and organic botanicals. I snagged her cranberry cleansing gel. The smell alone makes you feel good. “Products that use aromatherapy not only touch your skin, but your mind,” she says. “If a smell triggers happiness, your skin radiates that happiness.”

Skin success

Bond likes to mix science along with a good dose of nature. She uses naturally harvested plant ingredients and organic botanicals.

work schedule, my diet was not stable. Bond wrote out a straightforward meal plan for me, along with a list of herbs, vitamins and superfoods that would give my body a boost. This list included chia seeds for brain smart omega-3s, shots of aloe for moisture and kamu kamu for vitamin C ... not things I was used to discussing with an esthetician. Once I got under that bright, telling light, it seems my skin really got to talking! Apparently, it demonstrated to Bond that I needed to be better at cleaning

my face, and that I was in dire need of moisture. I’ve always hated a tattle-tale, but in this case, it was for my own good! Bond decided on a wet microdermabrasion service for me, which exfoliates and sucks all the bad stuff out, but is not as harsh as a regular microdermabrasion. The biggest bonus is that the machine infuses antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid into the skin. It is a shame I wasn’t the bride in the upcoming wedding, because my skin was truly shining and flawless by the time she finished!

Bond credits her longevity in the business to simply listening to her clients’ needs. Most of her prices for facial services are set at $125-$225, which she says she has not raised in 15 years. “No matter whether I bring in the most expensive pieces of equipment, I keep my prices the same,” she says. “When the recession hit, I was not hurt, as my clients trust me and know they are not coming here for just a facial, but a total life experience.” Bond may whisper to skin, but when it comes to staying successful as an esthetician, she emphasizes this message: “Never, never stop learning. You have to step outside the box. You can’t be afraid of blending different methods!” n

Angela Caraway-Carlton is a television producer which investigates medical reports and features lifestyle programs for Miami, Florida.

Page 30 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

by Jamie Scalise

skin|

beyond the jars and treatments

LET’S GET STARTED BY FIRST ACknowledging that yes, we all need our clients to visit us as often as possible in order for us to deliver intensive, face changing spa treatments. Of course, we also need to synergistically tie together their use of a proper, committed home skin care regimen with regular services for our clients to gain optimal graceful aging benefits. But isn’t there more we can do? Is this where our obligation ends? When we look in the mirror, do we really see someone who could be considered a

challenging, we need to expand. For if we don’t continue to grow, our only option is to wither away and die, and we already understand that growth only occurs outside of our comfort zone, and thus in expansion. So what else can we do to aid our clients’ efforts to improve their quality of life? Coincidentally, most of the things we may come up with seem to go hand in hand with the process of aging gracefully. Let’s do a quick litmus test. Does having greater joy and bountiful, loving relationships enhance our

photo: Pindyurin Vasily/Shutterstock.com

All we can do for clients is mirror back their possible destructive behaviors with love in our hearts, explain the possible consequences, and hope they may then see them in a different light.

role model for the lifestyle changes we are encouraging our clients to adopt? It is tough to ask clients to invest in your $150 face cream if you don’t use it yourself, and in the same way it is hard to encourage them to eat right, manage bad habits (drinking, smoking, prescription drugs, unprotected sun bathing, etc.) and monitor their mental, spiritual and physical health if you are clearly lacking in these areas. Technically, our job description indicates that we are only in charge of our client’s skin care—that’s it. But my view is this: When we reach a comfort zone in our careers and get to a place where the basics of what we do are no longer

clients’ lives? And would that also help one to age better? Yep! Does a lifestyle of eating well and being fit result in a higher quality of life? And again, would this benefit the process of aging gracefully? Absolutely! As professionals in the beauty industry, we have a unique opportunity to extol the virtues of a healthy, vibrant and joyful lifestyle, and we can do it under the guise of simply helping clients to “look better” for longer. Again, if you read this and can honestly say that you are clicking on all the cylinders we touch upon, then you are a perfect role model for your clients. But even though we have our struggles in certain areas, that

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

only makes us seem more human to our clientele. And honestly, no matter what we are good at, we can always get even better at it! So there will always be new challenges we need to overcome ourselves, and fresh ones to challenge our clients with. Once we start to venture outside our inane skin care expertise, we must tread lightly, as most often we may not be an expert on all subjects related to a balanced holistic lifestyle. Yet my philosophy in this regard is that if we can accomplish something for ourselves (or are in the process of doing so), then we can share our trials and tribulations with clients. This is de facto education courtesy of the age-old school of hard knocks! Mind you, some of the healthy topics we may take on will have a tremendous amount of emotional voltage with clients. For example, have you ever tried to get someone you love to quit smoking? How about convincing them to lose weight? If you have, how did that conversation go? You get where I’m going with this, right? This is an area where we need to tread lightly and watch our words so as not to offend. Many factors come into play here. How well do you know the client? How receptive are they to your skin care ideas? If they are not following your skin care system, encouraging them to change an continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 31

skin|beyond the jars and treatments

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We may be able to initiate change, but only through the clients‘ commitment to the process will anything positive and permanent come from it.

outside habit or behavior will be next to impossible. Those who have integrated your skin care program into their lives and those with whom you have a great long term relationships will be the ones you can reach regarding outside lifestyle issues. Let your intuition be your ultimate guide as to when and where you intercede. I always like to ask permission if I feel like I may be heading into private territory. This could start with a question like, “May I ask you a personal question that relates to your skin health?” Then you can follow up with: “How do you feel your smoking habit is affecting your skin?” “Are you happy with your current fitness level?” (This can be a delicate way to address a weight issue.) “What do you think your need to tan is doing to your ability to age gracefully?” “How do you think your constant stress level is affecting your facial breakouts?” “Do you think the lack of vitamins in your processed food-based diet affects your skin health?” You might finish with the question, “What can we do to change this sabotaging behavior?” The first objective here is to get them talking. The second step is to get their permission to discuss a topic that obviously has a bearing on their skin health. This is your primary area of expertise, but falls outside our normal recommendations of anti-aging based treatments and jars of lotions and potions. The third part is to take advantage of an opportunity to tie in how any of these indicated destructive behaviors and conditions will undermine their ability to age with grace. Notice how, as I mentioned before, all of this is done under the guise of skin health and aging gracefully, while any positive impact we might spur collectively in any of these areas will certainly

improve the overall quality of our clients’ lives. As service providers, let’s do a gut check and see if we should be asking ourselves any of the above questions! All we can do for clients is mirror back their possible destructive behaviors with love in our hearts, explain the possible consequences, and hope they may then see them in a different light. It will only be through engaging their own personal responsibility in the matter that any sort of change will come about. We may be able to initiate change, but only through the clients‘ commitment to the process will anything positive and permanent come from it. If they do in fact choose to take positive steps, you will have a client that looks and feels better. This is due not only to your products and services, but also the time you took to inspire a change in them that aids them in their skin health journey and enhances their life as they know it. Make a professional resolution for 2013 that you will always be professional, go the extra mile and take a proactive stance with your clients. n

Jamie Scalise is an esthetician at the Spa at the DelMonte in Rochester, NY, where he specializes in age management. Scalise is the author of the e-book The Power of Three Method, and frequently writes articles on industry topics. With more than 10 years of experience in the spa industry, he is a regular speaker at conferences across the country, and owns interest in multiple startup companies.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #208

Page 32 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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skin

KEEPING ALLIGATOR SKIN AT BAY

top to bottom: Robert Eastman/Shutterstock.com; Supri Suharjoto/Shutterstock.com

DURING WINTER MONTHS

Page 34 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

skin

DRY SKIN CONDITIONS CAN RANGE FROM A MINIMAL LACK OF MOISTURE TO CONDITIONS AS SERIOUS AS ECZEMA, PSORIASIS AND “ALLIGATOR” SKIN.

DRY SKIN CONDITIONS CAN IMPACT US year round, but during the winter months it becomes even more prevalent. Not only is hydrationdepleted skin uncomfortable, it loses elasticity, plumpness and luster, and can become more susceptible to aging—developing lines, furrows and wrinkles. Understanding the causes of dry skin enables us to better treat our clients and get them back on the road to hydrated, plump, glowing skin. Provide them with a good skin care treatment regimen and home care system, and also educate them on how to avoid the common culprits of dry skin. These actions will help them beat the harsh effects of winter this season.

Cause and effect

photo: Quayside/Shutterstock.com

psoriasis

Dry skin conditions can range from a minimal lack of moisture to conditions as serious as eczema, psoriasis and “alligator” skin. It could simply be due to an absence of moisture, which in some cases means that an adequate amount of sebum is not being produced. In simple terms, dehydration occurs when the amount of water leaving the body is greater than the amount being taken in. We are continually losing moisture as we breathe, sweat and so on. As a result of trans-epidermal water loss, dry skin ages faster and is more prone to wrinkling. Similar to common skin agers, there are intrinsic and extrinsic causes. Intrinsic causes of dry skin include genetic factors, medications, antihistamines and antibiotics, illness and aging. Thinner skin and fair complexions are typically more prone to dehydration as well. You may have heard that the human body is 90 percent water, but did you know that we lose it as we age? By the time we reach our golden years,

we are only made up of about 10 percent water, on average. Unfortunately, the first place the water starts shedding from is the skin. Extrinsic causes are the external factors. This includes the environment, certain lifestyle choices, skin care products and cosmetics. Environment: Cold air is more dense than warm air, which leaves little room for water vapor. This is why skin tends to dry out during the winter months. Keep in mind, however, that the sun is one of the top contributors to dry skin, so it’s important to talk to clients about the importance of using a good sunblock formula daily. Lifestyle: Insufficient water intake, poor nutrition and smoking are all culprits behind dry skin. Depending on your relationship with your client, you might consider talking to them about this, or simply providing a tip sheet with the common causes of dry skin. Skin care products: An overuse of scrubs, alcohol-based products and certain clay-based masks can be very drying or excessively moisturizing, not to mention under cleansing. I found that many clients thought cleansing would strip their skin of its moisture barrier. Proper cleansing, however, allows the moisturizer to penetrate the skin rather than sit on the surface.

Replenishing dry skin How do you help clients refresh and maintain the skin’s moisture barrier? First, the balance needs to be restored. In healthy skin conditions, sebaceous glands maintain an adequate level of sebum to naturally lubricate the skin. When the epidermal equilibrium is off, the internal and external factors discussed earlier need to be addressed. Clients will need to address the intrinsic factors, but we can support them both in the treatment room and with the right home care regimen by creating a customized plan for their skin. If the skin is dehydrated, dull, sensitive and photocontinues

BY RHONDA ALLISON

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 35

skin|keeping alligator skin at bay during the winter months

towels and finish with a hand cream. Hands will be hydrated, replenished and healthy looking.

Home care remedies The seasonal shift calls for a change up in daily skin care regimens. Though the overall process will remain unchanged—cleanse, tone, rebuild and protect—clients must be careful not to use formulas that are over-drying. You might suggest a winter home care regimen that uses a more gentle cleanser with moisturizing ingredients like shea butter, cucumber or milk, antioxidants and cleansing agents that don’t strip away natural oils like sodium chloride. For morning and night, you might recommend a non-greasy antioxidant and moisturizing formula to fight free radicals and hydrate. Ingredients like D2O (heavy water), grapeseed extract, D-boldine, L-Glutathione, and superoxide dismutase (powerful antioxidants) will help to restore and maintain moisture. I always send clients home with a granular scrub using jojoba beads or bamboo to keep dead skin at bay. Other excellent ingredients for the season include epidermal growth factor, omega-6 essential fatty acids, hyaluronic acid, aloe and resveratrol. Of course a good sun block agent like zinc is essential all year. Treatments targeting dry skin, while beneficial all year-round, can be a great addition to your palette of services during the winter season. The right treatment combined with a good home care system will keep skin healthy during any season. Keep in mind that you are not limited to the face. It all comes down to awareness on our part as professionals. Always be ready to change service offerings based on client need and demand, as well as the season. n

Rhonda Allison is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison® and RAW Skin Care for Men. She is an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of experience in esthetics. Allison is a pioneer in the skin care industry. Learn more at www.RhondaAllison.com and www.RAWmethod.com.

Page 36 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com

EXCELLENT INGREDIENTS FOR THE SEASON INCLUDE EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR, OMEGA-6 ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS, HYALURONIC ACID, ALOE AND RESVERATROL.

aged, a corrective treatment using lactic acid, oxygen and nutrients will work to gradually return the skin to optimal health and hydration. The goal is to exfoliate dead cells, stimulate blood flow and saturate the tissue with oxygen. An oxygen-based emulsion formula with low strength acids will stimulate the skin and aid in tissue respiration. This may be followed with microdermabrasion to enhance the exfoliation. Lactic acid will also work to increase the water-holding capacity of the skin while providing regenerating support. Antioxidants and growth factors will help further healing and hydrating. For a quick yet effective treatment, an AHA such as lactic acid followed by a wine-extract peel formula will deliver nutrients, hydration and antioxidants to the skin, leaving it firm, toned and softened. Deepen the hydration with a milk-based mask, and finish with an application of vitamin E and other skin-building ingredients. Though it is a relatively quick procedure, it makes a noticeable difference in the skin’s appearance. Also consider making use of the enticing aromas of the season—cinnamon, clove, cherry and chocolate. These provide potent antioxidants and polyphenols to build healthy skin tissue and promote cell regeneration. For men, who typically produce more sebum than women, you might use a fruit extract-based enzyme to exfoliate and soften dead cells. Just remember that the main goal is to replenish depleted skin. Utilize minerals, stone extracts, peptides and vitamins—along with some corrective ingredients like retinol—to heal, hydrate and restore the skin. Lastly, don’t forget about the hands. This is where clients often experience the most significant drying, and it makes for a great add-on service. A quick, yet absolutely luxurious treatment might include an AHA gel to soften dead cells and firm the skin, followed by an energizing peptide spritz and nutrient-rich hydrating lotion massaged into the skin. Wrap the hands in heated

by Anne Martin

skin|

demystifying acne

beyond the treatment ACNE. MANY OF US HAVE HAD IT— all of us have seen it. Whether it’s one pimple or a minefield of lesions ready to explode at the slightest provocation, successfully finding the way through this potentially disfiguring and emotionally damaging disease requires imagination, plans and direction. In short, it requires the skills of a licensed professional.

weekly visits are imperative for the first six weeks (followed by weaning, until monthly visits become the norm), since the work of exfoliating, promoting cellular turnover, extracting and healing are based on this process. This science-based work is often a revelation to clients, who can mistakenly believe that acne is the result of something they’ve done—or

photo: Ronald Sumners /Shutterstock.com

Dispel misconceptions while establishing a personal connection. For the client, it is the experience of being informed as well as heard.

Estheticians design individual inhouse treatment plans, explaining the process and timeline to clients who may be impatient for results. It is up to us to tailor a home care regimen and then sell the products to skeptical clients, or to those who recoil from spending money on yet more serums and creams because previous ones have failed. Most importantly, estheticians offer empathy and sensitivity to the client whose emotional health and social life flounders in the face of turmoil that acne churns up. Designing in-house plans not only means deciding which treatments to conduct, but their frequency as well: once a month isn’t nearly soon enough. Explaining keratinization to the client is crucial to helping them understand why

worse, deserve. It is essential to lift the client’s assumption of fault for breakouts from their shoulders, and convince them to book these necessary appointments. It is here that you can explain that acne is the result of hormones, genetics, stress, fewer skin enzymes than usual (lipid abnormalities) and faulty skin cell exfoliation (retention hyperkeratosis), among other things. Demystify acne by either drawing the hair follicle with the sebaceous gland or using a picture to illustrate exactly what it is that becomes clogged. Use or adapt the following explanation in your own words: 1. Skin cell exfoliation is called keratinization; it is a process whereby cells are born every three to five days in the lowest layer of the epidermis. Then

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

they migrate up to the surface, over the course of 28 to 30 days, forming all the different layers of the skin as they do. 2. At a microscopic level, these cells do what we do—they take in nourishment, excrete, reproduce, fight threats, work together, live and die. 3. Cells protect us by shifting from being water-filled to keratin-filled (same type as hair and nails), boosting the strength and integrity of the skin as they move up to the surface. 4. Ultimately, because of water loss, these epithelial cells die and slough off in about a month (faster with youthful skin, slower with mature skin). In essence, the little guys throw themselves under a bus for us. 5. But occasionally, things go awry. Sometimes, the cells don’t effectively move up and out of the follicle shaft that the oil gland is attached to, resulting in tiny clogs (microcomedones) composed of sticky cells, oils and the like. These can go on to form a visible whitehead or blackhead. 6. If the clog gets large enough, it blocks incoming air to the follicle. This oxygen deprivation allows P-acnes (the bacteria that lives in all skin, clear or broken-out) to multiply, while the matter forming the clog (e.g. cellular debris and oil) is nourishment to the bacteria. 7. This multiplying action alerts the skin’s defense mechanisms, which rush continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 37

skin|demystifying acne

to fight the bacteria, resulting in a papule (“blind” pimple), pustule (pimple) or cyst. 8. Signs of number 7 include swelling (because of histamine release and consequent pain from pressing on nerve endings), redness (because capillaries dilate to allow immune cells to arrive more quickly), heat (from increased blood flow, which itself can have a healing effect) and pus, a sign of the battle’s end. It is known as the inflammatory response; a splinter in the skin elicits the exact same process, because the bacteria, like the splinter, is foreign to the normal workings of the skin. 9. Lastly, color from lesions is not scarring; it is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). This will usually settle, though it can take anywhere from a few weeks to a year. Through the initial consultation, take more time with the client to thoroughly explain the treatment process to your client. An additional charge for this first visit can be added, which recognizes the value of our time and expertise while contributing to the sustainability of our business. For the esthetician, this interval is a chance to dispel misconceptions while establishing a personal connection. For the client, it is the experience of being informed as well as heard. The story of acne, though familiar to us, is unique to the sufferer and requires individual attention. When explaining the timeline of esthetic work, gently remind the client that it took more than a month for their skin to be as it is now, and that as much as they yearn for their acne to be gone tomorrow, esthetic work requires steady, consistent treatments. Tell them that the products you are choosing rely on proven ingredients. This includes ingredients for clearing, exfoliating, oil-drying, water-hydrating, healing or pigmentation relief as AHAs (glycolic, lactic), BHAs (salicylic), low percentage benzoyl peroxide, pumpkin, vitamin C, algae, sea whip, zinc, licorice, peptides and enzymes, and that your responsibility is to review product use over the course of treatments, making adjust-

ments and additions as needed by the healing skin. Results are also dependent on home care. As such, facial cleansing and product application twice a day is crucial for results, but excessively washing oily skin is just as detrimental as not washing it enough, as is the use of overly drying products. Both instances come about because the skin doesn’t feel “clean”

Client compliance with routine is a highly effective way of helping the skin to heal. otherwise; under each circumstance, the skin can dehydrate, causing it to actually overproduce oil as it tries to seal in whatever water remains ... misleading the client to wash and dry more with greater frustration. Picking at pimples can make one feel as though they still have some control, with the immediate satisfaction of seeming to be rid of the embarrassing lesion. But the infection can get worse, spread and cause permanent scarring along with PIH. This is a terrible price to pay for momentary gratification. Estheticians can advise the client who cannot get within two inches of a mirror without picking that they shouldn’t go there. Also emphasize that they should not believe themselves when they think, “It’s just this once.” If necessary, the client should cover the mirror with paper, leaving only a small patch visible for applying makeup. Tell them to put affirmations on the mirror, refrigerator, closet and anywhere else, proclaiming that their skin is not the enemy—that it is as confused as they are, and needs their help. Client compliance with routine is a highly effective way of helping the skin to heal. It is also tricky for a client to maintain. Whoever said that “clients are looking for dreams in jars” understood that new skin products that tout better than the best results are like crack for those who ex-

pect miracles. Furthermore, the first time another breakout occurs after the initial clearing can be devastating to the client. ”Why me?” “Nothing works!” The esthetician must respond to these inevitable complaints by explaining the nature of a chronic disease, and reassuring the client that they will pass. The client’s task is to continue using products and coming to you for treatments. Moreover, just as it’s important for the client to stay compliant, it is crucial for the esthetician to know when to recommend antibiotics. Medical help and esthetics can work side by side without diminishing the relevance of skin care. What estheticians offer is unique and special. We offer a truly wholistic practice incorporating science with alternative care, anchored to a profoundly human level that deeply understands how isolating the effects of acne can be. We have this empathy because we have listened to the heartfelt stories our clients have shared. We give the gift of our time and attention, bearing witness to clients’ experiences and lives. Estheticians know that the secret to truly caring for the client lies in caring about the client. We let them know that they are not alone, and that we will walk with them on their road to wellness. n

Anne Martin is a CIDESCO Diplomate and a licensed esthetic instructor. She holds an advanced diploma in Dr. Vodder’s Manual Lymph Drainage. Martin is also founder and chair of the NW Aestheticians’ Guild, and former chair of the Washington State Advisory Board for Cos metology, Manicuring, Barbering and Esthetics. She co-founded The Institute of Advanced Clinical Esthetics with Dr. Mark Lees. Martin specializes in acne treatment at her Seattle based private practice.

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skin

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

fall into winter cleanse the body, mind and spirit WE OFTEN THINK OF “CLEANSING” as something that is done during the spring and summer months. But when you stop and think about it, the transition from the fall to the winter season is a great time to cleanse the body, mind and spirit before venturing into the new year. Why wait until spring to decide to give your body a needed break, lose weight or get rid of old habits and addictions that no longer serve you—or are beginning to manifest themselves into your daily life in unhealthy ways? Do something to truly honor yourself before the end of the year. It can be so liberating—and possibly right on time!

When we speak about “cleansing” in alternative medicine, there are three main areas in our lives that we need to address: the body, the mind and the spirit. Let’s consider each.

Honor thy temple Cleansing the body is done to keep the physical temple in optimum health. We are born into bodies with physical limitations, and the aging process begins the day we are born. If we can learn to use our body’s own healing mechanisms, we can begin to bring about positive change by slowing down the aging process through cell regeneration and reju-

venation. There are many ways to bring about awareness and change. Detoxifying the body is the process of releasing accumulated toxins and waste products that build up throughout our system. Internally, our organs release waste products that accumulate in our cells and tissues. Imbalanced emotions also play a part in polluting our system with excess chemicals, such as free radicals homocysteine and cortisol. “Detoxifying” is, in many ways, a natural process. Much of our bodies’ detoxification process occurs through urination, elimination and perspiration. As our bodies age and our immune systems weaken from poor diet, addictive substances, environmental pollution and illness, we sometimes need to give our system extra help, and that is why conscious detoxification is a great way back to optimum health. One of the best ways to start your detoxification is with the skin. A “detox” program strengthens the organs involved in detoxification and releases stored toxins, expelling them through the organs of elimination: the skin, intestines, liver, lungs, kidneys and lymphatic system. This complete detoxification process should be done four times a year. Using the seasons as a guide allows us to work with the “rhythm of nature,” and to change our focus as our bodies change.

Skin detoxification enhancers Dry skin brushing is very useful in aiding the detoxification process of the body, as it stimulates circulation and the lymphatic system, helping to speed the removal of waste. It is a great way to “wake up” your system in the morning—and you won’t even miss the coffee! Use a natural dry bristle brush before your morning shower. Begin by brushing from the toes and continue all the way up to the head using long, light sweeping strokes that start at the bottom of your feet and move upward, from the continues

BY NINA CURTIS December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 39

skin

hands toward the shoulders, and on the torso in an upward direction. Use light pressure in areas where the skin is thin, and harder pressure on places like the soles of the feet. Dry skin brushing should be done once a day, preferably first thing in the morning. A thorough skin brushing takes about 10 to 15 minutes, but any time spent brushing prior to your morning shower or bath will benefit the body. If you are feeling ill, increasing the treatments to twice a day is good. You can also dry brush areas of cellulite for five to ten minutes twice a day to stimulate stagnant circulation and help to diminish cellulite, but this technique needs to be done consistently for a minimum of five months, depending on the cause and severity of the condition. Avoid sensitive areas, and any area of the skin that is broken, such as rashes, wounds, cuts and infections. Finish your shower with three hot and cold cycles. This means turning the water up as hot as you can stand it (without burning yourself) for several seconds, then as cold as you can handle it, then hot, then cold for a total of three cycles. End with either a cold or tepid water temperature. This will further invigorate the skin and stimulate blood circulation, bringing more blood to the outer layers of the skin to tone and tighten.

BENEFITS OF DRY SKIN BRUSHING 1. Stimulates the lymphatic system 2. Improves circulation 3. Strengthens the immune system 4. Helps with digestion 5. Tones the muscles 6. Tightens the skin, preventing premature aging 7. Removes dead skin cell build up Try unwinding with the following detoxification bath in the evening. DETOX BATH 2 cups sea salt 2 cups magnesium flakes 1 cup baking soda 4 tbsp. ginger powder Place all ingredients in a warm or hot bath (never so hot that you could burn yourself) and bathe for 20 minutes. Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated while you are in the tub. This bath pulls impurities from your body and helps you to feel better. Enjoy this bath two to three times a week or as needed.

Healthful tips for detoxifying the body It is important not just to drink during a cleanse, but also to eat whole foods. If you don’t chew your food, you are more likely to retain fluid and hold in waste, rather than excrete it. A good cleanse should keep glucose levels low, because insulin levels

are sensitive to change during a time of detoxification. It’s better to have an apple in your salad for a bit of sweetness than to bring simple sugars into your system. 1. Eat a diet that focuses on fresh vegetables and fruits. 2. Incorporate whole grains, legumes, nuts and seeds into your regular diet (avoid these during the actual days of your cleanse). 3. Take “whole food” and herbal supplements to protect and enhance liver function. 4. Avoid drugs and alcohol. 5. Go on a juice and water fast for one day each month. 6. Scheduling a cleanse at the change of the seasons is a good rule to remember. An effective cleanse should only take two to three days to help rid the body of toxins, and brighten up your mood and complexion. You can detox easily and effectively while you continue to eat, as long as you are cutting out substances that interfere with the detoxification process. You can eat as much as you like, it is really what you put into your body that matters. REMEMBER THESE RULES: 1. No meat, fish, chicken or animal protein of any kind (no dairy or eggs). 2. No caffeine. 3. No soy products. 4. Drink plenty of water— always stay hydrated. 5. Practice deep breathing. 6. The skin gets rid of many toxins, so it is important to do gentle exercise to promote sweat. 7. Make sure you eat whole, organic foods, which have the best chance of containing all the nutrients needed for liver and general detoxification. Start every morning with a glass of tepid water with one to two tablespoons of organic lemon juice. This is a great way to jumpstart your digestive system for the day, and it assists in the easy elimination of waste from the body.

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photo: Sea Wave/Shutterstock.com

THIS BATH PULLS IMPURITIES FROM YOUR BODY AND HELPS YOU TO FEEL BETTER.

After getting out of the shower, pat dry and massage your skin with cold pressed organic plant oils such as olive, avocado, apricot, almond, sesame, coconut or cocoa butter. Clean your skin brush after each use with soap and water. After rinsing, leave the brush out to dry in an open, sunny area to prevent mildew. It will take about 30 days to see and experience the results of any well designed program. Please be patient and keep up the program! For a thorough lymphatic cleansing, perform skin brushing daily for a minimum of three months. You must be diligent!

skin|fall into winter

GREEN ENERGY DRINK Juice the following ingredients together: 1 cucumber ½ bunch kale or chard 1 pear 1/4 bunch of parsley 1 squeeze of lemon a slice of ginger a pinch of cayenne pepper (helpful for

the liver as a natural disinfectant)

GREEN SALAD Combine a mix of greens (romaine lettuce, arugula, baby spinach, baby kale, collard greens), plus half a tomato, cucumber, basil and half an avocado. Mix a ½ tsp each of olive oil and orange juice, and drizzle on top. STEAMED GREENS Simply steam greens (kale, spinach or collard greens), and squeeze a bit of lime juice on top. Drink the water from the steamer like a broth. Lightly steaming greens creates a mineral-rich broth that supports the body during detoxification.

photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

GREEN SOUP Simmer the following ingredients: Asparagus (great for cleansing the kidneys) Swiss chard ½ red onion 1 clove of garlic ½ bunch parsley 1 medium sized, peeled red potato in 1 cup of water Simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the vegetables are fairly tender. Put in a blender and purée until smooth. Sprinkle a pinch of celery salt on top and drink slowly. In addition to trying the recipes above, enjoy an apple, pear or persimmon as a snack once a day. Adopt a healthy lifestyle, including a regular exercise routine. Physical exercise is as important to detoxification as diet. Besides keeping you fit, exercise helps to burn off some of the stress chemicals that tension produces. Therefore, a tired muscle is a relaxed muscle, and relaxed

muscles contribute to a relaxed mind. Aerobic exercise is very important for increasing circulation, cleansing the skin by boosting oxygen intake and ridding the body of toxins. Excretion through sweating releases fat soluble toxins and heavy metals like lead. Cleansing the skin’s pores and enabling the rejuvenation process are two of the great benefits of detoxification through regular exercise.

Honor thy mind Cleansing the mind brings awareness to everything that causes us limitations in our thinking. Overthinking, which is rooted in fear and deters us from living wholeheartedly, can be one of our biggest detriments. However we can learn to free our minds from limitations, and create a focused and well balanced mindset. The desire to understand the power of our minds continues to intrigue all of us who wish to grow. Cleansing the mind entails simply listening to how your heart speaks to your mind. This language is called intuition. Children are extremely intuitive, and utilize this intuition on a daily basis. As we grow older, it seems that we tend to not trust these feelings, images or concepts from our mind’s eye. They almost seem odd, irrational or just hard to believe. The art of tapping into the super-sensory powers of our subconscious is just another way of paying attention! The following steps are vital to this cleansing of the mind. 1. Maintain an open mind. Accept that there are some things you may not understand. Acknowledge that there are two sides to every story. 2. Forgiving is the ultimate step in acceptance of both yourself and of others. It directs a path to our true selves, smoothing away the bumps in the road. 3. Practice the art of listening to your hunches. Act upon them. If they are right, look at what seems to be the reason behind them. Allow mistakes to happen. 4. Allow yourself to be playful. When we tap into our childlike curiosity,

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

we are less conscious of what others think, and are more in tandem with our free mind. Techniques can be used to calm and clear the mind, thereby achieving clearer perception. Include some of the following: 1. Meditation is a time-honored technique that can take you into infinite dimensions of consciousness. It is a simple effort that becomes easier the more we do it. One major principle of meditation is the ability to completely quiet your mind. 2. Prayer is an intention or affirmation through a conversation with the Divine. It is dialogue with a higher power. Tuning into the Divine really requires the ability to listen to our higher self. Prayer brings awareness to any situation before us. continues

MUSIC HAS THE POWER TO SOOTHE, RELAX AND EMBRACE US WITH COMFORT AND JOY!

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 41

skin|fall into winter

Honor thy spirit

3. Music therapy is a magical medium and a very powerful tool. Music can delight all the senses and inspire every fiber of our being. Music has the power to soothe, relax and embrace us with comfort and joy! Music subtly bypasses the intellectual stimulus in the brain and moves directly to our subconscious. 4. Visualization involves the power of guided imagery, and is one of our most powerful gifts! A healing tool

To recognize a power that is greater than our own is to recognize our spirituality. Spiritual health is often considered a condition marked by a diminished sense of fear, and the daily experience of unconditional love, joy and gratitude, as well as an inner awareness of an infinite source of power and compassion. Spiritual cleansing allows us to surrender to our higher power, so that our spirit can orchestrate the infinite correlation necessary for the manifestation of our desires. Spirituality is a state of mind. It is an experience that brings us closer to the realization of life’s truths. It can be found when facing fear, enjoying simplicity or through contemplation. A cleanse of the body, mind and spirit is a great way to move into the new year,

and also a great concept of ideas to share with your clients. Keep a journal as you travel on this journey. I look forward to hearing about your successes! n

Nina Curtis is principal of Curtis Com munications, Nina Curtis & Associates and the Nile Institute. Curtis received her MBA from Pepperdine University and consults for leading companies in the personal care industry. With more than 20 years of experience, she holds certifications in aromatherapy, reflexology, acupressure and color light therapy. Curtis has been instrumental in the development of training programs for salons and spas nationwide.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #276 on reader service card

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photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

we all have within us is the “power of the mind!”

SUNBURNS IN THE WINTER? ABSOLUTELY!

photo: Monkey Business Images/Shutterstock.com

BY TRACY M. PFEIFER, M.D., F.A.C.S. IT IS A WELL-KNOWN FACT THAT sunburn can occur in the winter. There are usually two scenarios in which this can happen. A person goes to a tropical climate for vacation—or they are outside in cold climates, engaging in winter sports such as skiing. In both cases, people are focused on enjoying the outdoors, and tend to neglect sun protection. It is important to keep in mind that a person has to protect their skin even more than usual at higher altitudes. For every 1,000 foot increase in elevation, UV exposure increases by four percent. In areas with snow, the exposure is also increased because of the snow’s reflection of the UV radiation. Signs of sunburn to take note of include painful red skin, blistering chills, fever, nausea and/or vomiting. The symptoms begin to subside after 12 to 24 hours. To protect against sunburn, use a product with an SPF of at least 30. An SPF of 30 means that one can stay in the sun before burning 30 times longer than one could without sunscreen. It is also important to look for sunscreens that contain both UVA and UVB protection. The SPF level describes the UVB protection levels, and the products must state on the packaging that they cover UVA as well, since SPF does not refer to UVA. While UVB rays are primarily responsible for sunburn, UVA sun damage leads to aging of the skin and is associated with skin cancer. In general, products that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are physical sunblocks, are very effective against both UVA and UVB rays. The reason for this is that physical sunblocks reflect the UV radiation away from the body. Alternatively, chemical sunblocks absorb the UV radiation and convert it to heat. This can be damaging

to the skin and is often not desirable, especially in people who have trouble with hyperpigmentation. Additionally, lotion forms of sunscreen need to be reapplied every one or two hours to achieve the stated SPF, so powder sunscreens are often preferred because they are longer lasting. If sunburn occurs, it must run its course. However, one must seek medical care if signs of

Products that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are physical sunblocks, are very effective against both UVA and UVB rays. serious sunburn or sun poisoning appear. Some of these signs include severe pain and blisters, facial swelling, vomiting, loss of consciousness, dizziness, headache and confusion. For mild to moderate sunburn, one can treat the symptoms themselves. Cool compresses and baths, as well as aloe vera lotions and gels are soothing. However, one should not apply any lotions containing alcohol, as they are drying. To reduce discomfort, antiinflammatory medications such as aspirin and ibuprofen are effective. If blisters develop, it is best to leave them alone. But they can be drained with a sterile needle if they are large and painful. Open blisters should always be covered with an antibiotic ointment such as Neosporin or Bacitracin, followed by a non-stick gauze secured with tape or a gauze wrap. However, problems can arise if people are allergic to antibiotic ointments. Signs of this include itching and rashes. If this

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

occurs, discontinue use. Additionally, blisters can become infected. Signs of infection include red streaks in the burned area, overall redness, increased swelling and pain, pus or fever. If a client is experiencing these symptoms, they should contact their physician. As the burn is healing, allow the peeling skin to slough off on its own. Once the burn has healed, it is important to keep in mind that this skin will be very susceptible to further sunburn, and is at risk of developing discoloration. This skin should be kept out of the sun. If it is exposed, a broad-spectrum SPF should be applied, and a hat and protective clothing should be worn. Finally, do not forget that people with fair complexions are more at risk. It is especially important for these individuals to wear sunglasses, as UV radiation exposure is associated with cataracts and possibly ocular melanoma. n Tracy M. Pfeifer, M.D., F.A.C.S., has practiced plastic surgery since 1999. She specializes in breast surgery, abdominoplasty, cosmetic facial surgery and injectables. She is recognized for her expertise in breast revision surgery and the use of anatomic shaped silicone implants. Dr. Pfeifer is board certified by both the American Board of Plastic Surgery and the American Board of Surgery. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 43

MEGA MULTI-TASKER

SKINNEWS

The SPF20 Face by Miracle Skin Transformer is a breakthrough five in one tinted skin enhancer designed to hydrate, prime, enhance, mattify and protect the skin in one simple step. This multi-tasking complexion enhancer instantly provides skin with an antioxidantrich hydrating base, primed finish, weightless coverage and sun protection for better skin tone, luminosity and texture. Miracle Skin Transformer’s SPF20 Face is perfect for those clients hitting the slopes this winter, providing their skin protection from the sun and a smooth, radiant, airbrushed complexion for their vacation pictures! www.miracleskintransformer.com

EVEN PIGMENTATION Mela White Active C Serum from Dr. med Christine Schrammek is a special formula for skin lightening that inhibits the melanin production, rebalances hyperpigmentation, promotes collagen synthesis, provides moisture and has antioxidative properties. www.schrammek.de

CREAMY GLOW

HYDRATING CLEANSE

The Gentle Cleansing Milk from Cures by Avancé cleans and removes dirt and toxins from the skin while balancing skin’s pH to retain moisture and produce a natural glow. It is great for either cleansing or shaving, says the company. www.curesbyavance.com

Bio-Therapeutic is now offering an 8 oz. size of Hydra Cleanse, a gentle and soothing formula that consists of calming emollients to thoroughly cleanse and hydrate the skin. The rich cleanser works as a tool for age management, and also an eye makeup remover, says the company. www.bio-therapeutic.com

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ANTI-AGING INNOVATION La Maison Clayton Shagal is a unique product line that focuses on the skin’s main components: collagen, elastin and water. The Clayton Shagal product line is based on a unique extraction method they uncovered that provides the skin with the purest form of collagen ever extracted, requiring no injection to penetrate to the dermis level of the skin. Today, the collagen used in Clayton Shagal’s products remains unsurpassed in terms of purity and uniqueness. The full line of specialized skin care products addresses the needs of both younger and mature skin. www.claytonshagal.com

CLEAR CANVAS The Purifying Fluid from académie scientifique de beauté reduces and absorbs excess sebum to give the complexion a healthy, shine-free glow. Formulated with azelaic acid-glycin and mattifying powders, the fluid’s light and non-greasy texture penetrates quickly, leaving the skin hydrated and radiant. Makeup stays on all day long. www.myRDM.com

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Diminish dullness, dryness and deep wrinkles with HydroPeptide®’s Power Lift Anti-Wrinkle Ultra Rich Concentrate. The blend of 21 hydrating elements and collagen support peptides restores luminosity, hydration and youthfulness to all skin types, says the company. www.hydropeptide.com

MUSHROOM MAGIC Just in time for the holidays, Prana Spaceuticals debuts the truly unique Mushroom Collection, a cutting-edge new lineup of products formulated with a blend of medicinal mushrooms that help enhance cellular recovery. The six products in the collection are Active Clarity, Reishi Shield SPF 45, Reishi Mushroom Serum, ReVitale Eye, Revitalize Lips and Reishi Mushroom Ginger Mask. www.spaskincareproducts.org

SKINNEWS

OVERNIGHT RADIANCE

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS MORE NEWS

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 45

DIAMONDS ARE SKIN’S BEST FRIEND!

SKINNEWS

In Aesthetic VideoSource’s newly released Microdermabrasion: Crystal-Free Techniques; Diamond Tip and Stainless Steel Tip, Tina Zillmann walks the viewer through complete protocols of the treatment. This includes client consultation, detailed step-bystep instructions and both types of microdermabrasion machines for treatments of the face, ears, décolleté and shoulders. “Diamond-tip microdermabrasion is taking off in popularity,” says Zillmann. “It may become the main type of microdermabrasion we see in the near future.” www.Video-Shelf.com

CALMING ELEMENTS The Brightening Moisture Mask from Alchimie Forever is a luscious, creamy mask packed with natural botanicals to soothe, protect, and brighten dull skin. Oats, known for their softening properties, are combined with wild pansies to speed the recovery of distressed skin and calm irritation. Antioxidants from grape extracts protect the skin from environmental stress, while the powerful blueberry reduces facial redness. www.alchimie-forever.com

MANUKA MASKS La Bella Figura Beauty recently launched the Bio Active Healing Mask for Dry and Mature Skin and the Bio Active Purifying Mask for Problem Skin. The two targeted face mask formulations utilize highly concentrated botanical ingredients, and both are formulated with bioactive manuka honey 15+, known for its therapeutic enzymes with unique antibacterial components, says the company. www.labellafigurabeauty.com

FABULOUS FACIAL The Pancreatic Enzyme Mask from SESHA Skin Therapy dissolves dead skin cells while protecting healthy skin tissue. Combined with lypolytic enzymes, which effectively digest the plugs of comedones, this mask is perfect for both acne prone and mature skin, says the company. www.seshaskin.com

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spa

design trends for 2013

photo: Buida Nikita Yourievich/Shutterstock.com

by Leslie McGwire

FROM GOTHIC TO MODERN EUR opean, architectural classics to retro, exotic and natural to Zen and over the top opulent, a glamorous interior is key for the coming year. However, instead of decking out a space with every possible decoration, this year the trend in design is to go back to the basics, keeping the design simple, serene and stress-free. Natural interiors are more pared down. The glamour is still there, but it is more understated. Self-expression is incorporated into designs—meaning that almost anything goes. The focus on recycling, re-purposing and using green materials in the salon has been more popular in 2012 than in previous years. Casual/contemporary remains the dominant style, which means streamlined, clean and simple. This is a trendy, chic look. White and chrome has been a frequent request for the last three to five years. Mixing chocolate brown vinyls or laminates with the white and chrome is a very popular choice. Other colors that are “in” for 2013 are rich, earthy tones. The year’s color palette is staying close to the comforting, natural colors that have been popular for the past couple of years, while adding some surprisingly bold splashes of vibrant red, bright orange, teal blue, deep purple or citrus green on walls to create drama in the space. When used in the same space, muted colors such as deep eggplant, shades of grey and grassy green create a calm, relaxing and very upscale salon feel. Opalescence in paints and fabric drapes is a key look for today’s salon or spa, as is using color to enhance the character of the space, to solve space problems and to create harmony and balance. Metallic shades and the color

black have a future at the salon, as they are not only big this year, but a longstanding classic. “Texture” is a key word for 2013. Textures such as suede, exotic leather, stones, crocodile/alligator vinyls and velvet or sheer drapes are all sought-after this year. Texture anywhere in the salon or spa is important, as it gives the eye various focal points and creates visual interest. Commercial wall covering adds an extra spark or focal point for very little investment. Popular patterns vary from bold stripes to colorful floral patterns,

The newer trend for the coming year is to have chandeliers in the entryway. traditional damask, grass cloth and retro designs, to name a few. Wallpaper can change the look of an area of the salon that is currently dull and uninteresting, transforming it into a creative niche. Floors in a salon or spa should always be timeless so the design can change without replacing the floor. Designer vinyl floors remain one of the best options for salon flooring. The vinyl floors can come in many different patterns that work very well with the salon’s overall look. Porcelain flooring has come a long way in appearance and durability. Salons will continue to use porcelain tiles that look like limestone, granite, marble, onyx and travertine. When it comes to grout lines, they should look seamless. Fantastic lighting in a salon is not simply a trend, but rather an essential element to create ambiance and unify the space. Plus, it’s functional. It’s im-

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

portant for clients and stylists to have correct lighting over styling stations, and it makes for a chic look. Special touches like organic shapes, crystal chandeliers, tile mosaics, unframed mirrors and antique mirrors are very popular. Beautiful frame-out mirrors with four inch bulky frames with different finishes can be the focal point of the entire salon. It is also very popular to have indirect LED lighting behind styling station mirrors. Styling stations with storage and workspace on either side of the mirrors will be in high demand for the coming year. This look eliminates the clutter on counters, keeping all of the items a stylist uses on the sides of the mirror. The newer trend for the coming year is to have chandeliers in the entryway, and/or over the color processing tables to create grand statements. Sconces on either side of the mirrors or on the walls are another emerging trend. Not only do they add visual interest, but they create soft lighting on a client’s face, flattering his or her look. Using chandeliers, sconces and lamps within the salon give the space a residential feeling, which makes clients feel more comfortable. Accessories and pictures are added throughout the salon to create a focal point and “wow” factor that clients will not forget. n

Leslie McGwire is a premier designer for high end salons, spas and resorts, and is a member of the American Society of Interior Designers. She has been a designer for 27 years, and is the winner of 14 national design awards. McGwire is the president of Leslie McGwire & Associates. For more information, visit www.lesliemcgwire.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 47

photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

Page 48 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

spa

HEALTHY, WINTRY

spices WINTER HAS ARRIVED. YOU MAY BE FEELING that lackluster sluggishness that often comes with this season, and your body needs a healthy metabolic boost. Your clients are experiencing the same symptoms, and they are looking to you for helpful advice! The good news is, you don’t need to look any further than your own kitchen cabinet for a solution to these winter doldrums. Let your personal spice collection lead the way toward boosting your health and metabolism, and share this delicious information with your clients.

photo: Shutterstock.com

Cinnamon, more than a comfort spice Chinese medicine and Ayurveda have regarded cinnamon as a superfood to treat colds, boost metabolism and relieve indigestion and cramps. In the days of Old World trade, this spice was worth more than gold. Don’t let the wonderfully warm, soothing taste of cinnamon fool you into thinking it’s a sinful indulgence. One way to help improve your body’s glucose metabolism is by consuming merely ¼ to 1 teaspoon of this powdery delight each day. That enables the body to efficiently utilize its metabolic pathways. Efficient insulin levels help keep food cravings at bay by maintaining balanced blood

TO BOOST THE BODY

sugar levels. Cinnamon’s high polyphenol count has been shown to lower high cholesterol and triglycerides, and can reduce the risk of type 2 diabetes. Sprinkle it generously onto your morning oatmeal, dash a bit into your coffee or add a spoonful to your favorite cold cereal.

Hot, hot, hot! Cayenne pepper, also known as capsaicin, is a circulatory stimulant, digestive aid, blood cleanser and flu/cold fighter, with many other health benefits. This amazing substance causes the body temperature to rise. When the body temperature rises, it needs to be cooled. Thus, it ultimately burns more calories to cool itself down. It also triggers the “fight or flight” response hormones (catecholamines like epinephrine/ adrenaline, or epinephrine/noradrenaline and dopamine), speeding up breathing and making the heart beat faster, all for the body to move fat and glucose into the blood for the muscles to use. A great drink to start a winter’s day is a heated mixture of cayenne pepper, lemon and honey. It raises the metabolism and detoxifies the body. Factoid: Cayenne pepper helps a victim of the flu or cold to breathe easier and expel the congestion of excess mucous from the chest. 4

BY DONNA DODIER December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 49

spa|healthy, wintry spices to boost the body

Keep sipping green tea Move fat on out! Green tea contains elements from the antioxidant family called phytochemicals (plant chemicals). There are four types of green tea, including epicatechin (EC), epicatechin-3-gallate, epigallocatechin (EGC) and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). In your body, catechins increase fat oxidation (the burning of fat) by activating fat metabolizing enzymes (acyl-CoA oxidase/medium chain acyl CoA dehydrogenase) through a cellular chain of events. Find a high quality green tea and drink it throughout the day, not only for its fat metabolizing properties, but also for its abundance of health benefits. Factoid: Epigallocatechin gallate has been studied by many prestigious medical universi-

ties, with conclusive results showing that it has anti-cancer mechanisms, earning it the label of being chemo-preventative.

Ginger take my stress away (and the muffin top too)! According to a 2004 article in the Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, ginger suppresses cortisol production. Cortisol is a hormone responsible for excess belly fat and weight gain, predominantly occurring when one endures ongoing stressful situations. Today, stress is an emotional epidemic. Simply put, cortisol is a steroid hormone necessary for regulating energy and fat mobilization. It peaks in the morning and tapers off during the day. Believe it or not, ginger is classified as a stimulant in the herb and spice family. Consuming two teaspoons a day can not only keep your metabolic fires burning, it can also aid digestion. Try boiling a small piece of ginger in water for 20 minutes and add it to your favorite tea, along with lemon or honey. In addition to being helpful with managing cortisol levels, ginger has healthful cleansing properties. Factoid: Ginger is a root with numerous health boosting mechanisms, making it an effective treatment for inflammation, nausea and motion sickness. Clients will appreciate coming in from the cold and having a soothing cup of ginger or green tea with lemon and honey. Try serving chai tea with a dash of cinnamon, or offer a warm cup of the lemon-honey-cayenne concoction for clients with lingering cold symptoms. Both you and your clients can boost your metabolism with the help of many spices that are overlooked. Use this knowledge to improve your own vitality, and lead the way to becoming healthy, energized and invigorated! n

Donna Dodier is a licensed esthetician in Florida and New England. She is an educator, writer, lecturer and consultant. Dodier is an expert on the anti-aging benefits of nutraceuticals and holistic alternatives for the skin and body, both for humans and animals. She can be reached at 561.886.8427 or via email at quasarbeauty@hotmail.com. Page 50 â&#x20AC;˘ www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles EsthĂŠtiques & Spa â&#x20AC;˘ December 2012

photo: IngridHS/Shutterstock.com

Put a little pep in your step by adding this peppery zest to pasta, soups and stews. Factoid for bird lovers: If those pesky squirrels are eating up the food in your bird feeder, generously add cayenne pepper to coat the seed. Mammals hate the hot peppery taste, while birds have a gene that prevents them from tasting the heat!

by Mórag Currin

spa|

to wrap or not to wrap?

that is the question—and we have the answer! SPA MENUS CAN BE CONFUSING for clients when it comes to selecting a body treatment. What is a service that is listed as a body wrap, body mask and/ or body scrub? Spa clients are even more confused when a spa menu mentions names like “salt glow” or “body cocoon.” Demystifying the spa menu is a challenge in itself for many.

Slimming or toning the body. A person diagnosed with cancer and undergoing treatment will very possibly not even consider slimming or toning the body. Their focus will be on enabling their body to fight cancer. Hydrating or firming the skin. Hy drating the skin may be a definite option if the skin is going to be affected by drug

photo: Michele Cozzolino/Shutterstock.com

Boosting circulation and flushing out toxins is something that needs to be cleared with the client’s medical team— especially after they have completed cancer treatment.

Body wraps are just one of many types of spa treatments. They are designed for various purposes: • Slim and/or tone the body. • Hydrate or firm the skin. • Relax and soothe the muscles. • Detoxification. For all body wraps, the spa client is wrapped in something—mud, treated bandages or sheets—in order to achieve a therapeutic effect. Would you wrap someone who was undergoing cancer treatment with a body wrap for any of the above purposes? Let’s look into this question some more, and see if any of these benefits can be applied to this client aggregate. It is important to keep in mind that a person undergoing cancer treatment may be encountering fatigue. A complex spa treatment menu complicates the selection process for this client, so keep the menu and explanations simple.

based, cancer fighting therapy, and treatment drugs create very dry skin. Firming the skin. Firming is definitely an option after a person has completed cancer treatment, especially if they feel that their lack of exercise during treatment and/or chemotherapy induced menopause has caused them to look “aged.” However, this may not be an area of concern for someone who has just undergone cancer treatment. Relaxing and soothing the muscles. The idea sounds fabulous, and anyone can benefit from a relaxing and muscle soothing wrap. Muscle and joint pain can be experienced as a side effect of some chemotherapy drugs, so a client with cancer may be enticed by these benefits. Remember too that they may require your assistance when getting onto your massage table, and bolsters may be necessary to keep the client comfortable.

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Detoxification. Some physicians will perform detoxification services for patients during cancer treatment. It is not advised for spa therapists to perform these services to clients going through cancer treatment. As an esthetician, you should not interfere with medical protocols during cancer treatment, as this is not your role.

Ingredients and considerations during cancer treatment Algae wrap. Warmed algae can be applied to the entire body to nourish and detoxify the skin. How would a client undergoing cancer treatment react to marine ingredients or the odor of the product being used? While wonderfully nourishing, some marine ingredients do present with activity on the skin (e.g. erethema, hives, itchiness, hot spots). Chocolate wrap. Chocolate is recognized for its anti-aging and toning properties. It stimulates endorphins, plumps out wrinkles, softens and tones the skin. *First find out if the client is able to handle the strong smell of chocolate. Thalasso or seaweed wraps consist of a combination of seawater and seaweed, which hydrates and firms the skin. *Consider what temperature the wrap should be. Would a person undergoing cancer treatment be able to handle the heat? Would they react to marine ingredients? Mud wraps are made up of a layer of therapeutic mud applied to the skin to detoxify, cleanse and firm. The anti-stress continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 51

spa|to wrap or not to wrap? properties of the mud ease water retention and cleanse the pores by drawing out impurities. Disease-carrying microorganisms can live in mud, so there would be concern about the quality of the mud, especially for any spa clients with compromised immune systems. Clay wraps are similar to mud wraps, and often they are mixed with aromatherapy oils. What are the constituents of clay? Organic matter, bentonite and/or zeolites? Is there any science-based evidence that zeolites can absorb radiation? External applications of zeolite powder have been found to be effective in the treatment of athlete’s foot, as well as to decrease the healing time of wounds and surgical incisions. Cellulite treatment wraps boost circulation and flush out toxins. These wraps target the thighs and bottom. Boosting circulation and flushing out toxins is something that needs to be cleared with the client’s medical team— especially after they have completed cancer treatment. Herbal wraps incorporate herbs that have been selected for their nourishing properties. The herbs are blended with oils and steeped in very hot water. Cloth sheets are then soaked in the solution and wrapped around the body. This wrap removes dead skin cells and nourishes the skin. *First find out if the client can handle the herbs used in the mixture. Can they handle hot sheets and experience a body heating treatment? This is not advised during cancer treatment. Be especially cautious on areas of skin that have undergone radiation treatment. Bust wraps are firming serums or masks for the bust area; they are aimed at toning and moisturizing the skin. Is this an area that is still recovering from surgery or radiation therapy? Following breast reconstruction, there may be no need for firming in this area, however skin can always benefit from being moisturized. Paraffin wraps consist of a warm paraffin wax being brushed over the body. It is designed to reduce muscle and joint aches and soothe the symptoms of arthri-

tis. This wrap is not advised for reactive skins, areas of radiation and peripheral neuropathy, or for clients with hand-foot syndrome. Parafango wraps are not advised on reactive skins, clients with hand-foot syndrome, or areas of radiation or peripheral neuropathy. “Fango” is the Italian word for mud, and the parafango wrap uses warmed paraffin and mud to create a mini-sauna effect to stimulate the body’s lymphatic flow and draw out toxins. Oil wraps utilize aromatherapy oils to moisturize dry or dehydrated skin. Warm essential oils can be of great benefit—if the client can handle aromatherapy oils. Every type of spa wrap needs to be tailored for the client at the time of their treatment. As a spa therapist, always ask the necessary questions, and look at the pros and cons before providing any service.

Sweating from heated body wraps Sweating too much can lead to dehydration. Sweating is especially dangerous during body wraps, as the sweat does not dry, but stays on the body, potentially raising a client’s body temperature to unsafe levels. Profuse sweating also leads to changes in blood chemistry, reducing blood volume and sending less oxygen to the cells. Weakness, dizziness, confusion, coma and even death can result from excessive fluid loss. If your client is undergoing cancer treatment when they get a body wrap at your spa, you will not be qualified to deal with any of these reactions as a spa therapist. Let’s discuss a case study regarding a detox herbal body wrap. The client has undergone systemic chemotherapy, as well as a mastectomy and localized radiation therapy to the breast area. She comes to your spa to have an herbal detox body wrap after just finishing her cancer treatment. She tells you that she still encounters the following issues in the breast/décolleté area: • Tingling, which she thinks is skin rejuvenation. • Chest contractions, which she believes are from the muscles

repairing themselves. However, what she is experiencing feels something like cramps. • Mild lymphedema. She also had cellulitis one month ago. This client feels that a detoxifying wrap is a good idea, considering what her body has gone through. Is it okay to wrap the area of her breast that is still healing from radiation?

Spa protocols Lastly (and most importantly), if a spa provides a “one fit for all” protocol for clients, it is a spa that should be avoided by any person that is undergoing or recovering from cancer treatment. Under no circumstances can a spa therapist provide a “one fit for all” protocol for each client. Each client needs to be analyzed based on their medical history and side effects from treatment, even if it is done during the recovery period. This statement applies to all spa treatments—not just body wraps. As you can see from the issues raised here, there are many questions to ask before performing a body wrap. If your spa does not supply a client history form, take the first five minutes of the treatment to ask your client questions about their health, allergies, medications and lifestyle. The spa industry needs to start raising the bar, and spa therapists must be educated on the necessity of providing customized spa treatments according to each client’s specific medical history and needs at the time of their treatment. n

Mórag Currin, a licensed esthetician and certified licensed massage thera pist , is the founder and international director of Touch for Cancer, the only Clinical Oncology Esthetics (COE) certification currently available. She is the president of Touch for Cancer Online, and has also developed TecNiche Therapies™ skin care and authored Oncology Esthetics: A Practitioner’s Guide.

Page 52 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

spa

BY JIMM HARRISON

top to bottom: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com; Marilyn Barbone/Shutterstock.com

STRESS RELIEF HOW FAST CAN YOU HELP YOUR CLIENTS decompress? Your guests are often edgy, stressed and twitching when they arrive, and addressing this condition is generally the first thing you do before even getting to the treatment they came for in the first place. Most of the conditions we deal with are actually the result of a stressed life, which, holistically and by default, means that stress is a focus of the treatment. The faster you are able to get through that first layer of tension, the more effective your work can be. Essential oils are the ideal tool to quickly bring a relaxing release from daily stress, as well as dissolve the layers of tension that cause the inflammation, congestion, sensitivity and imbalance it creates in the body and on the skin.

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

RELAX WITH ESSENTIAL OIL THERAPIES How to relax The spa and wellness experience—and a primary reason your clients come to you, is to be relieved of stress and to find a moment of peace, serenity and relaxation. Essential oils can jump start relaxation upon your guest’s entry. A reception and waiting area with a nature based scent using a low detection essential oil blend produces a calming effect. Getting the guest into a soothing state of mind with pleasant aromatics is the first step to releasing the tension that results from their daily routine. Though synthetic fragrancing is often used, for the purposes of this article, essential oils are the way to achieve the scientifically validated emotional and anti-anxiety effects desired. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 53

spa|stress relief

The science behind essential oil stress relief Many studies have demonstrated stress reduction and anti-anxiety properties of essential oils. Researched oils include bergamot, lemongrass, orange and linalool, which is one of the compounds that provides calming properties to lavender and ylang ylang. Aromatherapy education teaches that the ester compounds offer the strongest sedative effect. Most of the well known calming oils have a high ester content, such as Roman chamomile, neroli, geranium and lavender. The science, including an analysis of the chemical composition’s effect on the central nervous system and neurotransmitters, has helped us understand many ways in which essential oils provide emotional balance and relaxation.

Aromacology Aromacology is a science that studies the sense of smell, especially in relation to its effect on emotions and behavior. There have been many studies conducted by Alan Hirsch, Ph.D., that demonstrate a calming effect from certain odors, citrus and vanilla being the most popular. Most of these studies have been focused on synthetics. The results from these studies mainly show the relationship between smell, the emotions stored within our memory and emotional centers within the limbic system of the brain. Scent is a powerful

Fight or flight = inflammation, skin damage and pain The “fight or flight” response is a stress and anxiety related condition many face as a reaction to work and lifestyle. This includes stressors such as traffic, deadlines and relationships that cause many imbalances, inflammation and sensitivity in the body and skin. The fight or flight response, which includes panic attacks, is an autonomic nervous system response that increases heart rate, accelerates breathing and stimulates adrenaline release, a function of the sympathetic nervous system, and decreases digestive and sexual function, or parasympathetic activity. Through inhalation, essential oils may reduce the fight or flight response. The traditional ingestion of anise seed and fennel following a meal is directly related to this, raising parasympathetic activity to assist in proper digestion. Inhalation of these oils will have a similar benefit, as well as creating health and healing by reducing the damage caused by a high stress fight or flight response. Cedrol, a major component in cedarwood, has been found to reduce sympathetic overdrive and to increase parasympathetic activity. Using essential oils before and during treatment to reduce sympathetic activity and stimulate restful parasympathetic function will allow the body to let go, reduce muscle tension and stimulate what is referred to as decompression, making your bodywork or facial therapy much more effective.

From stress to relaxation By using the chemical knowledge of essential oils, aromacology and a selection of essential oils known to reduce the fight or flight response, you can create a stress relieving and relaxing essential oil experience. Invite your guests to your business with an essential oil combination of grounding cedarwood with vanilla-scented tolu balsam, a middle note of lavender, geranium and fennel (careful of the licorice-like odor that can be tough to blend appropriately) and topped with mandarin and bergamot. This blend provides a grounding and uplifting sense of calm, using the sciences of essential oil chemistry and olfaction.

Page 54 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo: C. Gissemann/Shutterstock.com

The traditional ingestion of anise seed and fennel following a meal is directly related to this, raising parasympathetic activity to assist in proper digestion.

sense that profoundly influences our behavior. When authentic essential oils are used, there can be a pronounced olfactory behavioral response due to the complex natural composition of the oils with the added physical effects of naturally occurring compounds.

spa|stress relief

Enhance treatment results with stress reducing essential oils Your use of essential oils in treatment is dependent upon many factors, primarily your therapeutic intention. You can combine therapeutic results with anxiolytic and emotional balancing oils. A guest who is experiencing pain and inflammation in the back and shoulders, possible symptoms of stress and fight or flight, can be alleviated with stress relieving analgesic essential oils and anti-inflammatories. A good holistic essential oil is the relaxing high ester containing Cape chamomile (Eriocephalus punctulatus), which also contains the anti-inflammatory compound chamazulene. Add lemongrass or eucalyptus citriodora for analgesic properties that are also anti-spasmodic and sedative. In facial care, Cape chamomile, a superb oil for sensitive skin conditions, is blended with other oils composed of relaxing compounds that also address specific conditions and skin types, such as Australian sandalwood and elemi for regeneration and support of aging skin.

Quieting “monkey mind”

A quick quality review of essential oils Ensuring that you are using essential oils that are genuine, and at a quality that delivers the promises made is often a stress to you as a therapist. As with anything, quality does matter. Even when you purchase essential oils from professional suppliers, it can leave one a bit confused. Add in online sellers or network marketing companies (MLMs), and all will tell you they have the best oils. Unfortunately there are no standards, and you are often being marketed by half truths and a fair amount of total nonsense, including those stating that there are standards such as the Association French Normalization Organization Regulation (AFNOR), which has nothing to do with the qualcontinues

A guest with pain and inflammation in the back and shoulders, possible symptoms of stress and fight or flight, can be alleviated with stress relieving analgesic essential oils and antiinflammatories.

photo: Dragon Images/Shutterstock.com

Internal mental chatter, or “monkey mind,” is a major cause of stress and the fight or flight response. While guests should be relaxing and enjoying a blissful experience, their minds may be going over their to-do lists, evaluating complex problems and relationship issues or indulging in

critical self-analysis. It is difficult to shut the mind off, which most of us realize when attempting meditation or going back to sleep. The mind can continue to speak, causing the body to remain tense and making your therapy, especially with bodywork, more difficult. Frankincense is the oil to choose for monkey mind. It is an infamous resin historically used to quiet the mind for prayer, meditation and ritual. You will soothe your guest’s burdening thoughts while relaxing the muscles and reducing inflammation with frankincense. This oil is also valued for its nurturing and regenerative skin care properties.

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 55

spa|stress relief

ity of essential oils. There are no grades (A, B or C) of essential oils. Many suppliers define their oils as therapeutic grade, certified pure, organic, high frequency, or GC/MS tested. None of this guarantees or defines quality or even a real essential oil. Essential oils are like wine, quality is determined by the geographical location of the plant, growing practice, and most importantly, the skill of the distiller. Small

production is often best. You will have to become experienced to truly recognize authentic essential oils versus quality marketing. For now, read as much information as you can that is not coming from someone selling the oils.

Leave them stress free Following are two quick formulas that have the qualities previously discussed.

For bodywork or general massage, this high ester formula should relieve stress and relax muscles. In a one ounce container, combine the following ingredients: 4 drops Cape Chamomile (Eriocephalus punculatus) 4 drops Cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica) 4 drops Lavender Maillette (Lavandula angustifolia) 3 drops May Chang (Litsea cubeba) or Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) A quality organic massage blend or single carrier oil such as sunflower seed or olive oil.

For a relaxing skin conditioning treatment for normal, dry, aging and/or sensitive skin, add these oils to one ounce of a quality organic treatment serum base (suggestions include olive or sunflower seed oils with rosehip seed, cranberry seed and/or jojoba) or an organic facial cream base with a natural scent: 2 drops Australian sandalwood oil (Satalum spicatum) [for oily skin use Cedrus atlantica] 2 drops Cape chamomile oil (Eriocephalus punctulatus) 3 drops Frankincense oil (Boswellia carteri) 3 drops Geranium oil (Pelargonium graveolens) 1 drop Katrafay oil (Cedrelopsis grevei) n

Jimm Harrison is an author, educator and consultant on essential oils and holistic health with more than 25 years of experience in the beauty industry. He has developed programs, workshops and aromatherapy certificate courses for esthetics, medispa and nutritional skin care. Harrison shares how to create the Essential Oil Natural Health and Medicine Kit at www.jimmharrison.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #209 on reader service card

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Bio-Therapeutic recently revealed a new blue design for their BioUltimate Platinum®. The award winning microcurrent device still features nine pre-programmed facial modes that deliver unparelleled anti-aging results. Independent studies found a 14 percent increase in collagen, a 48 percent increase in elastin and a 300 to 500 percent increase in ATP using the Suzuki Sequencing Microcurrent Technology Platform, says the company. www.bio-therapeutic.com

LUSCIOUS LATHER The Forever Young Silky Matte Body Cream from Christina Cosmeceuticals reduces the signs of aging by enhancing cell adhesion, growth and microcirculation, with high levels of clinical hydrators. The matte textured, low oil cream is formulated to soften, tone and reverse the signs of aging without clogging pores. www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com

BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS

RELAXATION IN WARM SAND The new MLX Quartz wellness couch from Gharieni allows spa clients to experience an unusual, luxurious kind of warmth. The couch is filled with alpha-quartz sand, which is warmed to the desired temperature by means of an infinitely variable heating system that can be regulated. As the client reclines, the warm sand flows around them. The client’s back, knees and arms can be embedded in such a way that they are supported in the lying. The dry, mild warmth of the quartz sand provides a quick and intensive relaxation of the musculature, and the soul finds deep rest as well. The MLX Quartx can also be used for massage. www.gharieni.de

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

SPANEWS

TOP TECHNOLOGY

MORE NEWS

SMOOTH SOLUTION

PEPTIDE POWER! The luxurious feeling of the BijaBody Anti-Aging Body Treatment provides more than mere hydration. It delivers specific peptides at correct concentrations that increase collagen health and minimize pigment formation. Over the course of 45 days, the formula has been shown to provide anti-aging benefits equal to retinol—without the side effects! Honey oil is infused into the lotion base, along with turmeric extract, resveratrol and dulse. www.bijabody.com

The Razor Bump Control System from Global Skin Solutions effectively reduces the appearance of unsightly razor bumps and ingrown hairs. The special ingredients stunt the growth of facial hairs, allowing the skin to rebound from the irritation caused by shaving. www.globalskin-solutions.com

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 57

TONED AND TRENDY

SPANEWS

As you prepare for your clients’ barrage of post-holiday weight loss resolutions, offer a cutting-edge solution for them with the new RejuvaHealth Slimming Support Compression Leggings. They allow users to wear fashionable leggings while producing the svelte effect of modern shape wear, and providing the health benefits of compression. In addition to renewing tired, swollen legs with graduated, medical-grade compression knit into them, these footless leggings flatten and firm trouble areas for an all-over flattering effect. www.rejuvahealth.com

BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS

TUNING IN Enhance your clients’ overall experience at your spa and expand your retail offerings with Private Label Music, which provides a memorable musical ambience for notable high-end spa companies. Extend your own brand with customized music on a CD or through another digital medium that leaves guests with a lasting impression of your spa. Offering this signature assortment of music on a CD is a great retail opportunity to boost revenue. www.privatelabelmusic.com

GROUNDBREAKING EQUIPMENT PLUSH SUPPORT The revolutionary, unique and functional DripKnots are a great item to add to your retail shelves any time of year. The three-piece set of velvety velour wristbands and handband will help your clients stay dry and stylish when they’re doing their skin care regime. The wristbands stop water and product from running down the arms and spilling into sleeves and onto countertops. The thick, absorbent headband holds the hair up and keeps it out of the way of products, water or makeup. www.shopdripknots.com

Lydia Sarfati of Repêchage launches EuraFace Professional Equipment, two pieces of equipment that allow spa professionals to give clients clinical results, either without or in conjunction with surgical intervention. The EuraFace Action and the EuraFace Vapo Purifying Steamer/ Facial Vaporizer are the two items in the line. www.repechage.com

Page 58 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

business

QCS for external and internal customers

photo: Tyler Olson/Shutterstock.com

by Kristi L. Haynes

IT IS CRITICAL TO THE LONGEVITY of your business to deliver Quality Customer Service (QCS) to every guest that you encounter. In order to provide this, it is essential to fully understand and relate the need to effectively communicate and deliver quality to both external and internal customers, and that QCS is the basic component that ultimately differentiates your business from other competitors in the marketplace. QCS directly impacts your success or failure in business, and is absolutely related to success in today’s spa industry. Spa owners and directors usually have an educational background in business, as well as direct business experience. They must use their knowledge and skills to invest and incorporate QCS training for their staff into their business on an ongoing basis. Estheticians, massage therapists, nail technicians, hair stylists and other spa professionals are well trained and highly skilled in their fields; they are very client centric and understand how to deliver quality services to spa clients. But most do not come from a background in business administration, customer service, marketing or sales. How does a spa owner or spa director start to cultivate, effectively implement, maintain and measure a QCS program in the spa? A successful QCS program will develop employee morale, promote professionalism and actually reduce staff turnover while growing your business with client retention and increasing your client base by “over-delivering,” especially when compared to competitors. Conceptually, QCS is broadly defined … and is based not on meeting customer expectations, but exceeding customer expectations. Each member of the spa staff is accountable and re-

sponsible for quality, and needs to buy into the QCS concept. They must clearly understand their specific role and contribution within the overall QCS program, and the value of the organization! Included in this concept is the understanding that spa clients are external customers. But within the spa, we also

Quality is “over-delivering” services, ensuring that the focus is always on what is most important on that day to the customer. have internal customers—each other. We need to practice the same quality initiatives with each other internally, as spa associates and employees, as we do with our external customers—our clients. Each spa owner or director must broadly define quality, and key components of quality customer service for their individual spa environment. Key components of quality service can be defined as a positive attitude and a demeanor that is energetic, courteous, calm, accommodating and committed from each staff member. Quality is “over-delivering” services, ensuring that the focus is always on what is most important on that day to the customer (e.g. relaxation, treatment results, purchasing the right home care products). Quality is learning the few key questions to ask your client to ensure you exceed their expectations during treatment, or achieving a professional balance in knowing when to talk with the client and when to listen and be silent. Have you ever stopped shopping or receiving

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

services at a particular place because the front desk staff made a poor impression on you by demonstrating a lack of courtesy and professionalism? Of course, we all have! Have you ever stopped shopping or receiving services at a particular place because you felt like your needs and expectations were met or exceeded with a product, service and overall buying experience? Of course not! In many cases, we actually paid more for those products or services because of the quality that was part of our buying experience. For the new year, make it your goal to take the time to organize a positive, fun staff meeting to increase quality awareness within the spa, to communicate your own spa’s definition of quality and key criteria for delivering quality customer service. Encourage staff to define and discuss their perception and definition of delivering QCS in their role within the spa and organization. Consider offering incentives to spa staff for leading by example as part of your QCS initiative! As we head into 2013, remember that delivering quality and exceeding customer expectations will build client retention and increase profitability for the holiday season! n

Kristi L. Haynes is a licensed esthetician, esthetics educator and founder of Everyday Aesthetics, a provider of esthetics marketing, education and mentoring support for salons and spas. With more than 10 years of experience in health care sales, she currently practices esthetics in a health and wellness facility. Haynes is the director for the Southeast chapter of the National Aesthetics Spa Network. Contact her at kristihaynes@ymail.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 59

photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com; site design: vectorlife/Shutterstock.com

business

Page 60 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

business

ATTRACTING CLIENTS

ONLINE

5 MUST-HAVE ITEMS FOR YOUR WEBSITE YOUR WEBSITE, WHICH IS SPECIFICALLY designed to promote your salon or spa, may be beautiful, complete with glowing pictures and bold fonts—but is it doing its job? Is it retaining your existing clients and attracting new ones? Is it spreading the message about your business? The key to a functional website is ease. How easily can your current and potential clients find what they are looking for—and how easily can they find what you want them to find on your website? If you are missing any of the following five items on your website, you may be missing out on clients.

1. Easy to find phone number & address There’s nothing worse than visiting a website and struggling to find contact information. If you want people to call your business, make it easy on them! Put your phone number and address at the very top of your page.

2. Create a sign-up link for coupons, newsletters and specials This link gives you the potential for a long-lasting connection with visitors to your website. If they sign up to receive your coupons, newsletters and

notices about specials, you have a whole new opportunity for free advertisements and incentives. Your business name continually appears in their inbox, keeping you in their thoughts and reminding them about what services you offer. Besides, who doesn’t love a good discount?

3. Mobile version of your website How do you search the Web these days? Is it always on your computer? Probably not. “More and more people are accessing websites on mobile devices,” explains Doug McIssac, online marketing director of Avitus Group. “Depending on your market, it’s 25 to 50 percent.” Making your website easily accessible and user-friendly on mobile devices is crucial in order to hit a large chunk of your target audience. That may mean creating a mobile application for your business; it may also mean creating your website with a responsive design, allowing it to adjust to users opening your site in a variety of screen shapes and sizes. Consider how you are most likely to access your favorite sites. Are you using your iPad, phone or tablet as often as your computer? Your clients will be using all of these devices, and you want your website to have a version that works for them. continues

A STEADY STREAM OF NEW CONTENT IS ESSENTIAL TO MAINTAINING AND INCREASING USER HITS TO YOUR WEBSITE.

BY LANCE HARRIS December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 61

business|attracting clients online

4. Social media links

ONLINE SCHEDULING TIES DIRECTLY INTO YOUR MOBILE WEBSITE, AND PEOPLE’S NEED FOR INFORMATION ON THE GO.

We are living in a social world, something your business can take advantage of. As a salon or spa owner, you probably have beautiful pictures of your clients, your business and your area to show off. Make sure to link your Facebook page on your website for clients to see. Also consider linking your YouTube, Pinterest and Twitter accounts. People like to feel included; social media is a great way to keep people in the loop about your business, as well as take advantage of free advertising!

5. A blog with fresh content Don’t let your website get stale—keep it fresh! A steady stream of new content is essential to maintaining and increasing user hits to your website. Embed this blogstream into your website; include any news about your business, tips you have for spa and salon clients, new product updates, events and so on. Fresh content pushes your website forward in a Google search. The goal is to achieve page one ranking on Google, which means that when keywords related to your business or industry are searched in Google for a geographic area, your business shows up on the first page of results.

6. Online scheduling (optional)

Lance Harris joined the sales and marketing team at Avitus Group in 2004, and since then he has shared his expertise with hundreds of clients. A former business owner himself, Harris understands the challenges facing spa and salon owners in today’s competitive market. Contact him at lharris@avitusgroup.com.

Page 62 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo: Denys Prykhodov/Shutterstock.com

CHECK OUT SOME BUSINESSES THAT REALLY MAKE THEIR WEBSITES WORK FOR THEM. • GENE JUAREZ SALONS & SPAS www.genejaurez.com • OSMOSIS DAY SPA & SANCTUARY www.osmosis.com • PARIS PARKER SALONS AND SPAS www.parisparker.com • PURE SPA AND SALON http://purespaandsalon.com/ • SAGE SPA LIVING www.sagespaliving.com

Online appointment scheduling is an excellent website feature in the salon and spa industry. It is a very convenient tool for both yourself and your clients. Online scheduling ties directly into your mobile website, and people’s need for information on the go. Convenience is key for everything on your website, and online scheduling is one more step in that direction. Spas and salons are places people come to enjoy themselves, relax, rejuvenate and have some “me time.” Make your salon or spa the one people can easily find and remember with these simple but vital items on your website. Your website will become a faster, more reliable way to direct clients to your business and keep them coming back. Each of these items is focused on making things as easy as possible for them. n

by Marlene Chism

negativity business| eliminate in the spa

4 ways to create a drama free workforce

photo: Andresr/Shutterstock.com

AS A SPA OWNER, YOU STRIVE TO create a place of healing, tranquility and well-being for your clients, yet drama can still invade your workplace behind the scenes. This is especially true if you are going through changes, training new employees or learning about a new product line. My definition for drama is simply this: “Any obstacle to peace or prosperity.” In a recent conversation I had with a private coaching client, she said, “Even though I am feeling resentful, I still treat my employees and coworkers the same.” I responded that this was not true. We mislead ourselves if we believe that people cannot sense our energy. When you are anxious, feeling resentful or have unfinished business with others, the negative energy leaks out in very subtle ways, which eventually contributes to drama in the workplace that trickles down into the client experience. Here are four ways a spa owner can create a drama-free workforce, even in the midst of rapid change. 1. Focus on the result, not the problem. 2. Communicate positively. 3. Provide stability. 4. Eliminate negativity.

Focus on the result, not the problem. With any kind of change, there will be unexpected obstacles; however focusing on the problem or obstacle creates unnecessary stress. When you focus on what’s not working instead of what you

want to create, you contribute to the drama. In my workshops, I show a visual of a team in a rowboat rowing toward an island, with a shark in the middle of the image, representing the obstacle (drama) that keeps you stuck. The point is, don’t

Teach empowerment and personal responsibility. Create a protocol for addressing employee complaints. let your problems—no matter what they are—become bigger than what you want to create. As the leader, your job is to keep everyone focused on your mission and vision. This does not mean that you ignore the shark; it only means you don’t put the majority of your energy on him. When employees complain or become negative, listen compassionately first, and then ask them, “What do you want?” Or, “What are we committed to creating?” These two questions—when asked with the right energetic intention— shift the conversation onto what’s possible rather than what’s not working. Keep them motivated by keeping the vision in sight.

Communicate positively Our natural way of communicating is to talk about what we don’t want. For example, “I don’t want you to leave your room in a messy state after you give a treatment anymore.” Or, “I don’t want

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

to have to keep reminding you when it’s your turn to fold towels.” Although the communication is clear, there is a negative energetic vibe to it that will result in your employees resisting your leadership.

Applying this principle Teach yourself the discipline of asking for what you do want (positive) rather than talking about what you don’t want (negative). For example, “I want you to thoroughly clean your room after you give your treatments.” Or, “It would benefit the team if you would abide by the schedule so that we all take turns folding towels.” Then follow up with feedback to make sure your requests are fulfilled and acknowledged. You may need to self-correct and catch yourself starting your sentences with “I don’t want,” and then course-correcting by adding, “What I do want …” In no time, your speaking will resonate with more positive direction and less criticism.

Provide stability The unknown always poses a threat to the brain. The brain craves certainty, and with more change comes the feeling of uncertainty. The amygdala in the brain shoots out chemicals that are experienced as fear, anxiety and doubt, so work to provide a sense of certainty and stability, especially if you are making significant changes (e.g. adding and training new employees or adopting and learning a new product line). continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 63

business|eliminate negativity in the spa

STEPS TO CREATE SOME STABILITY. 1. Have weekly staff huddles or short meetings to keep your employees abreast of changes. 2. Adhere to your policies and standard operating procedures to increase continuity and trust. If you need to change your policies, do so—but don’t just ignore them. The policies are there to help you maintain boundaries and protect yourself legally. 3. Keep your word—don’t make promises you can’t keep. Telling someone you’ll get back to them and then failing to follow through can create a sense of doubt and mistrust. Make sure your word is golden to protect your clients’ sense of trust in you.

Eliminate negativity As a spa manager, you must become acutely aware of the impact of negativity. After all, your clients come to you for

rejuvenation, relaxation and increased well-being. A negative internal climate will ruin your reputation. Negativity spreads like a virus, whether it’s complaining at the water cooler or gossiping about a coworker. Even recalling an angry experience for five minutes suppresses the immune system for up to six hours, so don’t just nip negativity in the bud—pull it out by the roots! Teach empowerment and personal responsibility. Create a protocol for addressing employee complaints. Employees should set an appointment, and explain how their complaint is attached to customer service, teamwork or the bottom line. In addition, the employee should come prepared to offer creative ideas and potential solutions rather than asking you to play referee. In other words, workplace complaints need to have a business case and an idea for improvement. When employees are dealing with

personal issues, teach them to own the emotion rather than engage in story-telling. To say, “I’m angry” is healthy. On the other hand, “Look what so and so did to me,” is a statement that creates drama. Teaching your employees how to be proactive, ask for what they want and manage their own emotions is a key part of growing a mature and successful team. Empowerment and personal responsibility are what transform a victim orientation into a creator orientation. When each person becomes responsible for the energy they bring to the workplace, you create an unstoppable team and an unforgettable experience for your clients. n Marlene Chism is a consultant, professional speaker, and the author of Stop Workplace Drama. For more information, visit www.marlenechism.com or www.stopworkplacedrama.com.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card

Page 64 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

business

RECHARGE

YOUR CLIENTS AND YOUR BUSINESS IN 2013 WITH THE NEW YEAR JUST AROUND THE CORNER, now is the time to begin goal setting, developing a plan for your spa business, and thinking about ways to inspire your clients to achieve their resolutions. A new year presents a great opportunity to reinvent, recharge and rejuvenate—for your clients and for yourself, both personally and professionally. As January nears, many begin to shift their focus to at least one of the three Rs, and the esthetic professionals and spa owners who help guide clients toward their goals will benefit significantly. This may include reinventing your spa menu with services such as skin fitness and couture youth treatments, changing your approach to working with clients by creating year-long, goal-oriented programs, and recharging your retail by introducing them to a new crop of intelligent ingredients for 2013. continues

photo: Nakamasa/Shutterstock.com

BY RHONDA ALLISON

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 65

business|recharge your clients and your business in 2013

YOU MIGHT BEGIN TO INTEGRATE COUTURE PEELS INTO YOUR SERVICE MIX BY OUTLINING A FEW TO ROLL OUT DURING THE YEAR.

While healthier, youthful looking skin is sought year round, many people dedicate more attention to it as part of an overall self-improvement plan for the New Year. Be a part of the process by helping them set their skin care resolutions. Become their skin coach by developing a customized plan for achieving their goals and getting them started with a series of couture peels or corrective facials. Simply put, couture peels utilize next-generation acid formulas or integrate advanced modalities to customize the results. Next-generation acids provide amazing results in skin rejuvenation at the superficial level, and include formulas like flower acids and vitamin A-peptide peels. To further advance and customize the treatment, peel

formulas are being merged with one another as well as other active ingredients and modalities like microdermabrasion and laser to enhance results. You might begin to integrate couture peels into your service mix by outlining a few to roll out throughout the year. You can also make a plan to advance yourself professionally by committing to learning a new modality or working with a new acid formula.

Rejuvenate with goal-oriented programs At this time of year, many of your clients are also likely setting their sites on toning and firming their bodies. You can help them achieve their goals to get in shape in 2013. I’m not talking about playing the role of their personal trainer or dietician, but rather getting them on a skin fitness system. Just as our bodies need exercise to stay fit, young and resilient, so does our skin. Using advanced skin rejuvenation treatments and formulas, which in effect give the skin a workout, we can provide clients with effective, non-invasive alternatives for creating skin that is toned, firm and smooth. A skin fitness system makes a great addition to a client’s physical fitness program, and you might even consider partnering with a local area gym or fitness trainer to develop a comprehensive program. In the treatment room, the esthetic professional can effectively resurface and smooth skin by focusing on three key areas: Exfoliation. Using physical exfoliators, enzymes or acids to soften and lift dead cells will make the skin absorb products better, stimulate cell turnover and begin the regeneration process. Increasing circulation. Peptides and energizing actives like peptides, goji berry and coffee extracts will re-condition collagen, produce intense stimulation, improve oxygenation and detoxify tissues. Tissue repair. Nourishing, skin building ingredients like peptides, antioxidants, essential fatty acids, growth factors and plant stem cells will energize the cells, activate collagen production and correct challenging body texture issues while tightening and smoothing the skin. Just as personal trainers outline a workout regimen specifically to match their client’s body type and goals, a skin care regimen may be tailored in much the same way. A home care regimen keeps clients on track to maintain lifting and toning results in between professional treatments.

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photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

Reinventing the spa menu

The idea of developing goal-oriented treatments need not be relegated to the body; it can also keep clients dedicated to achieving healthy skin overall.

photo: Valua Vitaly/Shutterstock.com

Recharge your retail Clients look to us to educate them on the ingredients that produce the most significant results, whether it’s new and cutting edge or time-tested. Having advanced education and in-depth knowledge in this area will set you apart as an expert. It’s also a more organic way to talk to them about purchasing product, and thus recharging your retail. A new year also provides an opportunity to introduce new, intelligent skin care to your retail and treatment room. Intelligent skin care is the idea of combining time-tested, proven ingredients with scientific advancements to produce higher quality, results-oriented cosmeceutical formulas. A glance at some of the intelligent skin care ingredients now available include: Encapsulated retinal: A stable precursor to retinoic acid, it is encapsulated for enhanced performance. It produces potent rejuvenation, but with less irritation. Purified stem cells: Extracted from plant and apple stem cells, they have the ability to promote longevity and health in human cells. Chrono peptide: A 24-hour pro-youth active ingredient, it triggers the circadian genes to protect skin during the day and promote cell regeneration at night. Flower acids: Classified as second-generation or hybrid AHAs, these provide the benefits of an AHA, but are non-irritating. Amaranth protein: A natural foaming peptide used in cleansers. It contains a concentrated dose of minerals, calcium, magnesium, iron, vitamins and amino acids. Some of the time-tested, proven skin care ingredients boosted by scientific advances include retinol, which is vital to skin rejuvenation; epidermal growth factor (EGF), an essential protein and powerful cell regenerator that supports cell renewal and wound repair; and resveratrol, a potent antioxidant found in red grapes and wine that delivers polyphenols, anti-inflammatory properties and UV and free radical protection. We will also continue to see new-generation peptides like palmitoyl tripeptide-38, as well as antioxidant-rich super fruits like goji berry, December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

AMARANTH PROTEIN: A NATURAL FOAMING PEPTIDE USED IN CLEANSERS.

and exotic flowers like lotus, hibiscus, rhodiola rosea root, buddleja davidii and daisy flower. This New Year, focus on reinventing, recharging and rejuvenating. Reinvent by equipping yourself with the tools and education to customize treatments and enhance results. Recharge and rejuvenate your clients by focusing on intelligent ingredients and customized treatment plans. Here’s to raising the bar on the three Rs in 2013! n

Rhonda Allison is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison® and RAW Skin Care for Men. She is an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of experience in esthetics. Allison is a pioneer in the skin care industry. Visit www.RhondaAllison.com and www.RAWmethod.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 67

social media marketing IT SEEMS LIKE ONLY YESTERDAY that the concept of social media marketing was a new and exciting opportunity. But times have changed, and social media has since become commonplace. The question is ... has it lost its power of persuasion? The advice given to new estheticians and spa owners is quite often something like: “Hand out your business card!” and “Send emails!” While that is great advice for a car wash, restaurant or any type of business whose success is dependent on transient customers, is it really the best method of marketing for businesses in the spa and beauty industry, which are built on relationships? Social media has definitely changed the communication landscape. But be-

fore embarking on a social media campaign, it is important to have a clearly defined goal, and to identify an intended outcome. Have you done a detailed audience analysis? For example, do you want people to sign up for your mailing list? Are you selling a particular product or service? Figure out why you are online, and then use that answer to determine your goals and decide how social media can help you meet them. Otherwise, social media marketing is as ineffective as casting a wide net over a random space and hoping to catch something. Gone are the days when clients and potential clients received personal service on the telephone when scheduling their appointments. This was the spa’s best chance to make a great first im-

pression and set themselves apart from the others. It was also an opportunity to upsell their services before an appointment was even on the books. Now the extremely important “first impression” is often made by an impersonal email or online scheduling package. What was once a great opportunity has been lost. Personal phone calls to remind clients of their upcoming appointments have also fallen by the wayside. In the old days, even if you didn’t reach your client, you could leave a personal message on their voicemail system. At least they could hear a real voice instead of receiving a generic and oftentimes automated message.

BY DIANE BUCCOLA

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photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com

IS IT TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING?

business

So now it’s online appointment scheduling and reminders by email or text. Granted, it is extremely convenient, but it simply does not give businesses the right to neglect personal interactions in their social strategy. When it comes to success in the spa business, at the end of the day, people still buy from people.

While this type of marketing may result in a lot of “likes,” it doesn’t necessarily capture any fans or friends who will actually purchase something.

Use your social media strategies as one more tool in your marketing kit, but not at the expense of abandoning personal contact.

The wave of the future: online scheduling Online appointment scheduling has grown in popularity as people have become more proficient and comfortable with the Internet. The advantages for both the client and the business are plentiful: The client has the ability to schedule an appointment 24/7 without the potential of having to be put on hold by a busy front desk staff or worse, having to wait for a return call. Other advantages are that the business can check the appointment schedule from any place at any time, and many happy users claim that no-shows are greatly reduced. That’s the good news. The not-sogood news is that an important personal connection between a client or potential client is lost with the lack of direct communication. We are in an intimate business, in which success is measured by our personal connections with people. So with strictly online scheduling, that very important first conversation with a potential new client—who might greatly benefit from an interaction with a live person to help them navigate the treatment menu or simply answer their questions—is lost. These are important moments of truth that can make or break the success of an esthetician or spa.

photo: Pan Xunbin/Shutterstock.com

Social media trends Facebook: The hard truth is that Face book—not your company—reaps the benefits of your Facebook promotions. A focus on Facebook marketing is very common these days. Everywhere, we see “Like us on Facebook!” “Find us on Facebook!” “Visit our Facebook page!”

whether the typical Groupon user is a good fit for your business based on the facts: This individual’s main goal is to find a good deal because he or she does not

Of course, we all should have a presence on Facebook, but endlessly promoting your Facebook page only drives clients and prospective clients to Facebook instead of your website. Groupon: Groupon built its business by working for consumers, not small businesses. Groupon is one of many collective buying sites that have burst onto the scene, and can be hard for most small businesses to resist. By offering deep discounts, these sites offer the potential to attract big numbers of clients and sales. But is it a good idea for your business? We know Groupon is a great resource for consumers because it allows them to get vouchers for deeply discounted services. But with Groupon taking a 50 percent cut for each of those vouchers, it may not actually be a cost-effective way to generate sales. So if you want to discount your products and services by 50 percent, why not just run your own sale rather than go through Groupon? The money you will have saved by eliminating Groupon’s share can go a long way toward advertising your own sale. Another very important element to consider when deciding whether to jump on the Groupon bandwagon is whether or not that marketing strategy has the potential to generate long-term clients, who we all know are the real “bread and butter” of our business. Consider

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

want to pay full price. These types of consumers are very unlikely to become repeat clients unless you continue to offer them the same deep discounts. Also consider the effect that serving Groupon consumers will have on your current long-term clients. How do you think they will feel about the fact that in spite of their continued loyalty to you, they are required to pay full price for your services, while the Groupon consumers are getting the same services at steep discounts? According to Bill Bice, CEO of Spa Boom/CoverBoom, “We estimate that for every 100 Groupons a restaurant sells, it will lose almost $1,200, while the average day spa loses about $2,250 on Groupon deals. If the deal goes ‘well’ and sells 500 Groupons, the spa would lose about $11,250, while Groupon puts the same amount in the bank.” Basically, Groupon is just an advertisement disguised as a coupon with a temporary shelf life. And once the coupon no longer exists, the Groupon customer’s interest has vanished as well.

Where to draw the line These days, our email addresses are required when we sign up for anything, and our personal information ends up in a multitude of databases to be used continues

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business|social media marketing

• Easy to read. Choose a color and print that is easy on the eyes, such as a dark-colored font on a light-colored background. Don’t make clients and potential clients work hard to read your message. If you do, chances are they won’t even bother.

Snail mail is having a resurgence, because while it is easy to completely ignore an email, with snail mail the recipient at least has your print media in their hands at some point. going unread and being unsubscribed to, and emails are being ignored or deleted. Not only is it next to impossible to stand out in somebody’s inbox, but email marketing has actually become an annoyance. In our business, a source of annoyance like that can drive people away from us—and over to a competitor. While social media can definitely be cheaper and faster than other methods of marketing, that does not necessarily mean it is more effective. So use your social media strategies as one more tool in your marketing kit, but not at the expense of abandoning personal contact with current and potential clients. And don’t underestimate a useful snail mail marketing campaign. Snail mail is having a resurgence, because while it is easy to completely ignore an email, with snail mail the recipient at least has your print media in their hands at some point … even if it’s only to toss it into the recycle bin! Research shows that there are a couple of surefire elements in a print or regular mail campaign that will attract attention, and they are the first steps to getting your message across. • A photo of a person. People will always glance at a photo to see who is in it, and determine if they know the person(s) in the picture.

They have the disposable income to afford our services on a regular basis. In many cases, however, they are not involved with Facebook or Twitter, and there’s a pretty good chance that many of them do not prefer online scheduling. Hence, if you are strictly utilizing social media and online services, you could be missing out on an extremely profitable group of potential clients.

The road to mediocrity

• The most important piece of information. People are barraged with information all day long from television, radio, emails and so on, and it can turn into mindless clutter in their brains. So the first piece of information that the reader sees should carry enough weight to keep them reading down the page. Therefore, if you waste that precious space to highlight your company name or some cutesy introduction, you’ve lost them. They will not bother to read further, and therefore will miss your real message entirely. But if you capture their attention immediately, they will keep reading, and will look for your company contact info.

Know your demographic Of course, if you are a young and hip waxing studio in a college town, you can bet that social media is reaching your customers. However, if you are interested in the anti-aging business, don’t make the mistake of overlooking the baby boomer generation. Baby boomers are adults who were born between 1946 and 1955. They are often our most lucrative clients because they are particularly interested in anti-aging products and treatments.

While it is easy to follow the crowd into the land of social media, that is not necessarily the best path to success in the esthetics business. In fact, it is the fastest road to mediocrity, and there is no way to stand out when you are mediocre. You blend in with everyone else. You are unremarkable and forgettable. And you run the risk of ignoring potential clients who are not using social media. We must very carefully consider the totality of our marketing strategies. Social media does of course has its place, but in our business we must not forget the need for personal contact outside the treatment room. Getting people in the door is easy. Just put a sign that says “FREE” on your front window and they will come. But creating loyal, long-term clients is all about the relationship they have with you. n

Diane Buccola has been a licensed esthetician in California since 1998. After selling her day spa in 2004, she opened her own practice, and now frequently works as a consultant and trainer for estheticians. She also manages the popular SpaBizBoard, an online message board for estheticians and other spa professionals.

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photo: Feng Yu/Shutterstock.com

for marketing purposes and surveys. I recently heard a consultant advising someone on how to “capture” people’s email addresses. The problem here is that we are all drowning in emails these days, which renders this type of covert marketing tactic ineffective. E-newsletters are

by David Suzuki

business|

on the cutting-edge

how skin care technologies work together EVERY YEAR, SKIN THERAPISTS around the world diligently seek out the latest and greatest innovations available for their business. It is a natural instinct to stay on the “cutting edge” in order to ensure that you maintain the attention

Build on solid ground A strong, sound foundation of efficacious technology is untouchable by trend or fashion because it is scientifically proven and effective. Keeping this in mind, when we are in search of new

photo courtesy of Bio-Therapeutic

Non-invasive technologies that have a profound effect on ATP include microcurrent, LED, oxygen infusion and wet/dry microdermabrasion.

of your clients—and there is a certain truth to this instinct. At the same time, we have all been around long enough to know that true success cannot be bought. Success is organic in its nature, and something that can only be achieved through hard work, diligence, persistence and an endless supply of passion. So, do we neglect new technology, science and innovation? Absolutely not! We embrace it, with the understanding that true success begins and ends with that person looking back at you each morning in the mirror. Having this confidence and realization allows us to use the latest technology and product innovations to expedite our pursuit of beautiful, younger looking skin, while at the same time building upon what we have already established and created.

technology we should be looking to find collaborative tools that work with our business and skin care philosophy— and build upon that philosophy. Two good examples of this concept are radio frequency (RF) and microcurrent. While microcurrent has been a pillar in skin care for more than 20 years, radio frequency is still in its infancy. Radio frequency causes a form of controlled thermal damage, which ultimately leads to trauma, repair and eventually regeneration that tightens the skin. However, it does absolutely nothing for muscle tonification, cellular well being, skin texture or overall skin health. It does have its benefits, and has proven to be a useful technology. At the same time, those benefits are very limited and completely different than what microcurrent offers. Ironically, RF was ini-

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

tially marketed as the latest and greatest technology to replace microcurrent, when in reality there is nothing similar in terms of what it achieves. Practitioners around the world quickly realized this and began layering RF with microcurrent services, wet/ dry microdermabrasion, LED and oxygen infusion with great success.

Competition or collaboration With the passage of time, microcurrent has proven to be one of the strongest partners and collaborators of RF technology, as well as many other quasi-invasive procedures, due to the strong contrast and synergy between the two. LED was initially marketed in very much the same way as radio frequency—as the new latest and greatest miracle cure for aging skin. Yet on its own, it is hard pressed to be considered a stand alone service. However, when wet/dry microdermrasion and microcurrent are combined, the result is nothing short of amazing. Oxygen infusion follows a very similar path.

Is it all a scam? Most marketed products, services and technologies generally have some merit, and a basis for their marketing angles. They go rogue when they unrealistically increase the intensity of their promises continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 71

business|on the cutting-edge in an effort to gain consumers’ attention with statements like the following: “This one product or technology replaces all others, and is the only thing that you now need.” This marketing concept in itself creates a stir in the human mind, and also helps the vendor attempt to justify an outrageous price for a product or technology that cannot deliver on its promises. Skin care professionals who fall prey to such purchases attempt to sell the product or technology service at a rate that makes sense when you consider their purchase price, and fail with frustration and concern. It does not mean that the product or technology is not functional or effective, just that it is oversold—it is as simple as that!

Invasive, quasi-invasive or non-invasive? There are many opinions and positions about what constitutes an invasive, quasi-invasive or non-invasive service, product or technology. While most definitions have been described in accordance with government imposed rules and regulations, these definitions do not always coincide with the reality of what the product or technology does. There are four factors that come into play when defining whether or not a service, product or technology is invasive or non-invasive. • Does the procedure improve the cellular well-being of the skin and tissue? • Does the procedure break the skin? • Does the procedure inflict damage in order to achieve its results? • Does the procedure pose risk of permanent discoloration, scarring or disfigurement?

Defining procedures An invasive procedure with regards to skin care and cosmetic surgery would include traditional dermabrasion for complete resurfacing, aggressive laser resurfacing or any surgical procedure where the skin is cut. Invasive procedures can put forth amazing results, while at the same time they require the most downtime and pose the greatest risk of permanent damage and undesirable results.

A quasi-invasive procedure would include all radio frequency, basic laser services, most medical grade chemical peels and cryotherapy. Quasi-invasive procedures can require very little downtime

We must start with the solid foundation of noninvasive technology that will maximize the appearance of our clients’ skin from the inside out.

tion in ATP allows all cellular functions to expedite their processes, causing increased blood circulation and an expeditious upregulation of collagen and elastin that results in younger, firmer and healthier skin. Non-invasive technologies that have a profound effect on ATP include microcurrent, LED, oxygen infusion and wet/dry microdermabrasion. Although each technology discipline is excellent as a stand alone service, the results are maximized when used in layered form, and can be strategically combined with quasi-invasive and injectable services.

Full collaboration or as much as 10 days. They have low to medium risk factors of permanent discoloration and create their results through controlled damage. Trauma, repair and eventually regeneration (the result) can ensue from this damage. While some quasi-invasive procedures can yield quick results, the body needs between three and nine months to process the controlled damage and represent the full regenerative benefits for the bulk of them. Injectables are in a category of their own, in that they are technically invasive. Injectables involve puncturing the skin in order to inject substances, and at the same time the risk factor of any permanent damage or disfiguration is almost non-existent. Unlike quasi-invasive technology, injectable products cause no damage to the cellular wellbeing of the tissue (aside from the small entrance puncture), give instant results and in most cases require no downtime. Non-invasive procedures include technology services that do not break the skin or create damage, have minimal risk factors (if any) and are the only category that enhances and improves cellular well-being. Cellular well-being is generally measured by the level of cellular energy available in the form of adenosine triphosphate (ATP). Microcurrent not only performs facial sculpting and contouring to provide immediate results, specific patented sequencing technology has the highest proven levels of increased synthesis of ATP (up to 500 percent gains). This massive upregula-

Putting it all together, the strategy is simple. We must start with the solid foundation of non-invasive technology that will maximize the appearance of our clients’ skin from the inside out. Only then can we discern what we need to add to the mix from the other categories of services available. When we opt to take this step to use injectables, quasi-invasive and invasive procedures, we must continue to maintain the foundation of cellular wellbeing with our non-invasive technology. Remember that the other categories should never be looked at as competition or replacements for non-invasive skin care services, but rather collaborating with and complementing them, as they are all working together toward a common goal! n David Suzuki, president of Bio-Thera peutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.

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by Susan Preston

relax and | business loosen up

unless you are in charge A SPA SHOULD BE A RELAXING place for all clients. Women and men enjoy being pampered in our stressed out world. As the pace of life becomes more hectic, the role of the spa owner is to provide a haven where people can slow down and be the center of attention for a short period of time. To give clients the best experience, it is critical that the people who manage or work in spas don’t ever become

best efforts. This is one good reason that the owner of the facility might consider making their contractors regular employees, although there are certainly issues with doing that, which is another topic for another article. Massage services are very much in demand in our world of constant stimulation. It is crucial to be entirely professional in your treatment of the client. There are claims against massage facilities or spas

photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com

So often, the one person who has not signed a consent form is the one to file a lawsuit. If your insurance carrier requires written consent on file, the claim could be denied.

too relaxed in their business practices. This is how trouble arises. If a client feels that they are not getting service from a professional, they are more likely to feel “injured” and file a liability claim against the facility. Many spas and salons set up the people offering services as independent contractors. However the independent contractor usually is not the one who is sued if there is poor service or a perceived injury. It is almost always the spa owner that is brought into the lawsuit. Both the owner and the professional doing the services have an obligation to give their clients their

in two general categories: sexual abuse or increased pain following a service. A business owner should never take claims of sexual harassment or abuse lightly, as these situations are often expensive and time consuming to resolve. Every massage facility should have a written policy as to what should be done in these cases. A sexual harassment claim could be the massage therapist’s word against the client’s—or worse, it could be based on evidence. Nowadays such claims are not just made by women against men; it can be a man against another man or woman, and it could be a woman against another woman.

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Increased pain or physical injury resulting from a massage can be equally serious. This is why it is important to have a clear and thorough intake form that asks the client about their issues, including which areas of their body may be vulnerable to pain. It is a good idea to query the client about how strong they like their massage, since some people might feel pain if the massage is very intense. A back or neck injury can be the most expensive type to settle in the event of a claim. Every client who walks through the door of the facility should be treated with respect and professionalism. Have every one of them complete the required medical and personal information forms and sign a consent for certain services such as laser, permanent cosmetics, cellulite treatments or aggressive peels and massage, to name a few. So often, the one person who has not signed a consent form is the one to file a lawsuit. If your insurance carrier requires written consent on file, the claim could be denied. Never relax the procedures for anyone—not even your family, friends or business colleagues. Lowering the busicontinues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 73

business|relax and loosen up

By adhering to proper standards and treating every individual with respect, the owner and contractor should be able to lead a more relaxed personal life, knowing their clients are being treated right.

ness requirements for anyone could lead to allegations that the operation was below the proper standard of care. The client may feel cheated, and thus more likely to submit a liability claim against the facility. If there is water in the spa (in facilities such as saunas, steam rooms or showers), never compromise standards on upkeep or safety. Water claims, which occur when someone slips or falls, are one of the most expensive kinds. If anything gets broken, the odds that an attorney will get involved are very strong. In one instance, an insurance carrier was forced to pay $250,000 when a guest fell outside of a whirlpool. Unwavering standards are crucial for any procedure that affects the skin. This category would include aggressive peels, permanent makeup, laser services or microdermabrasion. Results can vary with ethnic skin types. For darker skins, a laser service might require that a different type of laser be used. It is imperative for technicians to receive proper training on the skin types the facility sees regularly in order to avoid lawsuits. It might not always be clear what type of skin the client has, so a proper intake form is needed to ensure the client is properly analyzed. Relaxation should be the goal for the spa experience— not staff standards. Professionalism in every facet of the business is necessary to minimize the chance of a lawsuit or a very unhappy client badmouthing the business. By adhering to proper standards and treating every individual with respect, the owner and contractor should be able to lead a more relaxed personal life, knowing their clients are being treated right. n

Susan Preston is the owner and president of Professional Program Insur ance Brokerage and co-founder of the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals. She has provided insurance and supplies to the permanent cosmetic and beauty industry for more than 20 years, and has worked with states and other governing bodies to develop industry regulations. Preston is a contributing writer for numerous publications in the insurance, beauty and medispa markets, and a frequent guest speaker at conferences. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card

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An Exciting New Range of Botanical Stem Cells for Stronger, more Resilient Skin Since being first in the industry to introduce the Apple & Edelweiss combination in 2009, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen amazing results with stem cells in their support of skin health and their energizing, anti-aging effects. Along with the steady growth of stem cell technology in recent years, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve added multiple new and unique plant based stem cells as we strive to give our clients the most effective and diverse ingredients to improve skin health and appearance. Our (LPAR) stem cell line delivers the most effective and widest range in plant stem cell technology, combined with state-of-the-art peptides, and formulated with high level cosmeceutical concentrations for professional skin care and result-driven retail.

gardenia echinacea

grape

apple

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L u crece P h y si ci ansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Ae sthe ti c Re se arc h, Inc . w w w.fa ceboo k.com /l p a rsk i n ca re | www. l u c rece. com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

lilac

NEW SKIN HEALTH CENTER

BIZNEWS

HITTING A HOME RUN! The Murad Family Foundation, a charitable organization dedicated to advancing the health of Southern California’s children by expanding access to fitness and nutrition education, formed a partnership with Beach City Baseball Academy in El Segundo, CA earlier this year, with the purpose of providing free baseball lessons to children of all ages with special needs. The joint community service program is open to the public and consists of a free series of one-on-one 30-minute batting sessions to any child in the community with special needs. www.beachcitybaseballacademy.com http://muradfamilyfoundation.org

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE MORE NEWS

Sandra Obagi, daughter of renowned cosmetic dermatologist Zein Obagi, M.D., recently launched The ZO® Skin Health Pasadena Skin Transformation Center in the heart of Pasadena, CA. The new center offers the latest in skin transformation and anti-aging technology, and treatment for many skin conditions, including acne, scars, large pores and skin imperfections. The center also addresses anti-aging and improving one’s health. “I am thrilled to offer Pasadena and the surrounding community the most advanced technology in skin wellness,” says Sandra Obagi, who is the owner and medical esthetician of the facility. “My mission is to deliver healthy skin to all our clients.” www.zoskinhealthpasadena.com

TEAM REWARDS

SPA LAUNCH HydroPeptide®’s facial and retail collection has launched at the Marriott Shoals Hotel and Spa. “You will not find a better choice of treatment for restoring balanced hydration to the skin,” said Coco Woodruff, director of the 6,000 square foot European spa in Florence, AL. “I feel confident having our trained professional estheticians prescribe similar regimes consisting of HydroPeptide products to their clients because they produce noticeable results and help maintain their post-facial radiance.” www.hydropeptide.com

Bio-Therapeutic held an employee appreciation day at the corporate headquarters in Seattle, WA. The daylong event took time to focus on the team that makes Bio-Therapeutic the success it is. Staff received massages, gifts and surprises throughout the day, and a special lunch hosted by David and Dena Suzuki, the owners of Bio-Therapeutic, as a gesture of their appreciation and thanks to all who work for the company. www.bio-therapeutic.com

Page 76 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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PS75 Granito Turbo Spa Shiatsu Massage

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #129 on reader service card

This offer available through your local beauty supply distributor. Offer valid until January 31st, 2013

BIZNEWS

REAP THE REWARDS

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

Page 78 • www.LNEONLINE.com

A unique new i-Rewards program has been executed by jane iredale — THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®, to engage U.S. retail partners by providing them with incentives to incrementally grow their business in exchange for having their voices heard in the company’s marketing, promotions and partner support initiatives. The program rewards partners with varying degrees of financial savings, new product previews, educational savings and personalized business support based on their level of achievement. www.janeiredale.com

BUSINESS EXCELLENCE Jamie True, the international business manager for PCA Skin®, accepted the Arizona District Export Council’s award for Excellence in Global Business on September 26, 2012. The annual award is given to a deserving Arizona exporter recognized by the district Export Council for their international business success. www.pcaskin.com

GIVING BACK

SEEING STARS Lisa Ann Skincare, in association with The Artisan Group, participated in the official celebrity gift lounge in honor of the 46th annual Country Music Awards on November 1, 2012 at the Bridgestone Arena in Nashville, TN. Lisa Ann Skincare gifted whipped body butters and vegan lip balm to the biggest names in country music backstage. www.lisaannskincare.com

Kim Laudati Skin Care is a company that believes in giving back. Over the course of 2012, they have donated to the following causes: In Motion Inc., New York Women’s Asian Center, You Can Thrive Breast Cancer Awareness, Safe Horizon, cystic fibrosis, Ralph Lauren Pink Pony, Italian American Cancer Society, Lungevity and New York Public School 87. www.kimlaudatiskincare.com

organic & wellness winter beauty alchemy

photo courtesy of Linda Bertaut

by Linda Bertaut

IN THE WINTERTIME, LOVE CAN BE found in the kitchen. Put on your winter alchemy hat and turn your kitchen into a space for “abra-ka-dabra” miracles, as you create recipes filled with love to nourish your clients and protect and boost their immune systems. With the resurgence in kitchen cosmetics, estheticians can incorporate this trend into seasonal treatments using winter fruits, herbs and pumpkin. Focus on helping clients unwind from the holiday hustle and bustle with three recipes that will recharge their energy for the New Year. Pumpkin pudding mask: This tasty creation has a major yum factor that will keep clients happy—both inside and out! Beneficial properties: A half cup of pumpkin contains 80 percent of your daily vitamin A requirement, plus vitamin C and a substantial dose of potassium to balance body fluids. This antioxidant blend, along with pumpkin enzymes, acts as a mild retinoic acid to help smooth the skin’s surface. Raw honey has many health benefits, including being an antioxidant, anti-microbial, boosting the immune system and providing possible protection against cancer. On the skin, honey’s natural humectants have moisture preserving and wound healing properties. Coconut milk contains short and medium chain fatty acids, which convert quickly into energy. The lauric acid in coconut milk has anti-viral, anti-bacterial and antifungal qualities that can help boost the immune system. Being high in omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, coconut milk works to cleanse, provide anti-bacterial benefits and maintain moisture in the skin. Chia seeds are also rich in antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids. This superfood expands in liquid to become a gel, which is beneficial both inside and out.

Ingredients: ½ - 1 cup pumpkin purée (canned organic pumpkin or roasted and puréed fresh pumpkin), ¼ cup raw honey, ¼ cup chia seeds, 1 cup coconut milk Measure and mix all ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Pour a half cup of the mixture into small dishes and chill for one hour to develop a gel or pudding-like consistency. Set aside two to three tablespoons of the mixture for each pumpkin pudding facial. Apply it generously to the face and neck, massaging it in circles. Leave it on for five to fifteen minutes, and remove with warm water. Cranberry apple quencher: This cranberry concoction protects the kidneys and bladder, known in Chinese medicine as the organs governed by the winter season. Cranberries are high in proanthocyanidin antioxidants, which are measured as having the highest capacity for oxygen radical absorption. Scientific studies report additional health benefits of cranberries, such as helping to prevent cancer, inflammation, diabetes and bacterial infections. Ingredients: 1 cup fresh cranberries, 2 cups water, 1 apple, 1 peeled orange (include the white pith on the orange), 1

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

teaspoon

Stevia leaf or other sweetener

of choice

Cook cranberries on medium heat in one cup of water for about 10 minutes or until berries burst. Add one cup of cold water to the mixture and put it in the food processor or blender. Add the apple, orange and sweetener and blend until the mixture is puréed. Dilute your beverage with more water if you like, and enjoy! Cranberries are contraindicated with the drug Warfarin, and also for individuals who are allergic to oxalic acid. Winterproof your clients’ bodies with the Bach Flower Remedy, utilizing the Yarrow Special Formula (YSF). This remedy includes a blend of yarrow, arnica and echinacea. YSF is known for protecting the body and boosting the immune system. It has the ability to clear negative energy from exposure to radiation, fluorescent lights, cell phones and computers. Recommend putting two drops twice a day under the tongue for a healthier winter. This remedy is contraindicated for those who are allergic to alcohol. Experiment with your labra-ka-dabra love magic to create more interesting recipes to enhance the health of your clients and yourself. Have a joyful holiday season and a happy new year! n

Author, esthetician, Reiki master teacher and award-winning inner and outerbeauty expert, Linda Bertaut specializes in bringing inner beauty to the surface. Bertaut founded Bertaut Beauty to help professionals add value to their services by training them in her signature wellness techniques and products. Contact her at Linda@BertautBeauty.com or call 626.405.0424. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 79

organic & wellness

Walking

MEDITATION

METAPHORICALLY SPEAKING, WALKING meditation starts with the Zen concept of entering the Gate to arrive at the House. It is the gateway to understanding the journey of life. The Zen story goes something like this: When you go to a house, you first go in through the gate. Thus, entering the gate is an indication that you have arrived at the house. After going through the gate, you enter the house and meet the host. You acquire knowledge from the gate. Therefore, learning happens at the gate, not the house. When you see the gate, don’t mistake it for the house. The house is inside, after the gate. Walking mediation is the quintessential experience of oneself. Sometimes it can be more appealing to guests than sitting mediation. Wellness resorts and spas strive to enhance the guest’s inner journey, and walking meditation can be a perfect way to ease the guest into the quiet reflection that results from grounding and clearing the mind. The combination of mental clarity and physical activity refresh and renew the individual in a unique and fulfilling way. But the “how to” of walking meditation can be a challenge to communicate to the guest, who must be connected with the meaning and essence of the path. The guest needs something to hang their spiritual hat upon while accessing their inner being. This article comprises

BY MARIA CAMILLE Page 80 • www.LNEONLINE.com

simple suggestions for the physical creation of the walking path, as well as ideas for imparting the essence of the Journey that will result in guests getting the most out of their walking meditation experience. When designing a walking meditation for your location, the first step is constructing a beginning, middle and end to the path that guests will walk. The environment should be in nature. The pathway should be slightly winding and filled with sense catching elements. There should be a specific entry point, a path that would take at least 20 minutes to traverse and a place near the end of the path that has some sort of physical structure (a bench, natural seating like a fallen tree, a flat rock or even a small house-like structure that would provide seating). The essence of the path is based on the Gate, the Journey and the House. The guest should be introduced to these concepts in some form. Just as a park might give the hiker a small brochure with the map of the trail and landmarks, the resort or spa could also provide a small guide to convey the meaning of the path. The Gate is the entry point of the journey into oneself, and represents a commitment to the path. Entering the path through the Gate symbolizes the crossover place to another dimension. continues

photo: Kavram/Shutterstock.com

A NEW JOURNEY FOR WELLNESS RESORTS & SPAS

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 81

organic & wellness

In a sense, each time the guest enters through the Gate they are provided time to reboot their internal computer. Next, the Journey along the path allows the guest to go inward and connect with their own spiritual nature. The guest should understand what it means to enter the Gate. Their instructions could come from either a written guide or a staff member who shares the short Zen story of meaning. Guests should be informed that each time they bring their focus to the beauty of the path, a worldly thought, often full of stress, falls away and is replaced by peace as they bring their attention inward to the self. This gives structure to the walking meditation, even for the novice guest. As they take in the elements of the Journey, be it a beautiful tree, the fragrance of a flower, the song of a bird or the sound of a babbling brook, they become aware that the purpose of the journey is to allow the clutter in their mind to fall away. By filling up their senses, they are elevated to a higher personal vibration than they were prior to entering the Gate. Near the end of the physical path is a place designated as the House. This is where the

guest enjoys the benefit of a clear mind that will allow inner reflection and the spiritual space for thought manifestation. What the guest imagines can happen and the energy they experience at the House will help them understand this all important aspect of any meditation. The seating provided allows the guest to relax and enjoy the meditative state they have accomplished. The guest surrendered to entry through the Gate, left their worries behind on the Journey and arrived at the House relaxed, ready and able to set their goals and envision what they desire. n

Maria Camille, a four time gold medal winner, spent many years traversing mountain paths across the globe to train for her spiritual journey. The culmination of this journey was creating a movement meditation practice, BaGua Flow, inspired by the beautiful canyons of Sedona, AZ. Camille travels to destination resorts and spas to share BaGua Flow classes and assist in creating meditation paths. For more information, visit www.baguaflow.com.

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photo: David Maska/Shutterstock.com

Guests should be informed that each time they bring their focus to the beauty of the path, a worldly thought, often full of stress, falls away and is replaced by peace as they bring their attention inward to the self.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242

Ayurvedic

HERBAL SECRETS

BY MELANIE SACHS AND SUDHIR M. SHAH

SHAH

Q: A:

this approach is refreshingly contemporary in its premise and its promise. • Ayurvedic skin care is pure, natural and chemical free. It teaches that the skin absorbs nutrients that affect the body on a cellular level; therefore, nothing should be applied to the skin if it cannot be eaten without causing a problem. • Ayurvedic beauty products should contain only full spectrum botanical ingredients. Plants, having evolved over millions of years, have created a natural balance. When we tear apart a naturally occurring compound, we are stripping it of its inherent balance and natural synergy. Isolated, it may give us one desired benefit, but the price is many undesirable side effects, some of which are hidden. In addition, synthetic production alters its bioavailability. Also, truly natural Ayurvedic products are neither bleached nor chemically processed to give them a white or clear appearance. • Ayurveda treats the cause, and does not just mask the symptoms to give you temporary results. Bio-active ingredients in Ayurvedic skin care stimulate the skin and body’s inherent self healing mechanisms, promoting an internal synergy between various constituents. Ayurveda reminds us that beauty, health and wellness make up the balanced and dynamic integration between our environment, body, mind and spirit. Having more understanding of where you are coming from as a formulator, can you tell us more about your top five Ayurvedic herbs for promoting beautiful skin?

I’m happy to name them here with their common English name, botanical and then the name I know them by from my mother. Aloe vera, aloe barbadensis miller, kumari aloe vera

This is the plant many keep in a pot in the kitchen in case of mild burns. I believe they call it the ‘healing cactus’ in India. Fifty years of scientific research has confirmed aloe vera’s therapeutic benefits for the skin when used both internally and externally. Aloe juice should be used in all skin care products as a base ingredient instead of water – from cleansers and serums to moisturizers and sunscreens. Aloe penetrates tissue. Unlike water, aloe can be deeply absorbed into all the skin’s layers. This is due to the presence of lignin, a substance similar to cellulose. This allows aloe to act as an excellent carrier for the other beneficial components of aloe vera, as well as other ingredients that are included in aloe-based skin care products. It acts as an anesthetic. Aloe has a high magnesium content and contains aspirin-like compounds. This is why aloe is used to ease the pain of burns or inflamed skin. It also has antimicrobial properties. Rich in saponin and barbaloin, which are

Page 84 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

aloe vera: Zhukov Oleg/Shutterstock.com

THE FOLLOWING ARTICLE IS A Q & A interview by Melanie Sachs with Sudhir M. Shah, explaining the benefits of taking the Ayurvedic approach to achieving beautiful skin. Can you explain the term ‘Ayur vedic’ from your personal perspective for those not yet familiar with it? Ayurvedic herbal remedies are a part of Ayurveda, the traditional holistic healing system of India. I am Indian myself, and my mother was an Ayurvedic practitioner. She had no formal education in this area, so you could say she practiced folk medicine. But it was nonetheless effective, and most importantly available to all. Her skills were very well respected, and she was able to raise 10 healthy children using virtually no modern medicine. So you were raised in a household where the use of herbs was the first choice in health care. Did you always share your mother’s interest and skills? Honestly, no. I studied modern sciences and came to the United States of America to pursue a graduate degree in molecular biology. I also earned an MBA from Yale University. It wasn’t until my own son suffered from eczema very badly that I turned back to my roots. By combining Ayurvedic knowledge with my science and business training, I not only found some wonderful remedies, I have also been able to develop and market products that help others. That is such an interesting and rare combination of talents. Could you tell us from your perspective what is unique about the way Ayurveda approaches skin care and the use of botanicals? The Ayurvedic approach to skin care is uniquely different, and yet

organic & wellness both powerful antibacterial compounds that can kill the bacteria that aggravate acne and other inflammatory conditions. It is an anti-inflammatory. Aloe contains beta hydroxyl acid, known for its anti-inflammatory capabilities. Additionally, it contains sterols that inhibit acute inflammation, similar to cortisone but without the side effects. Nearly all skin conditions stem from inflammation, making aloe an ideal remedy. It is proven to heal wounds. Several components in aloe are responsible for its excellent ability to regenerate cells. These include gibberellin, a growth hormonelike substance that increases protein synthesis, and lectin, a protein that increases collagen activity and improves the collagen matrix. Thus, aloe may be utilized to heal conditions, such as acne or eczema, as well as in anti-aging formulations. holy basil

Holy basil, Ocinum sanctum, tulsi Grown, loved and revered in many an Indian garden, holy basil is a sacred plant used during prayers and meditation. You may have come across it as tea blended with rose petals or ginger, or as an herb to help with clearing the lungs. It is known as an adaptogen in Ayurveda, which means it is helpful in increasing the body’s resistance to a variety of environmental threats or stressors. It is an excellent source of vitamins A, C and K, as well as trace minerals. In India, it is widely used in cosmetics, perfumes, shampoos and soaps. For centuries, the anti-microbial properties have been well known. Crushed leaves of holy basil have been used to treat acne and irritated skin. Tulsi contains ursolic acid, which has anti-aging properties and generally improves the skin’s health by forming an oil-resistant barrier. It also minimizes the appearance of wrinkles and age spots by restoring the skin’s collagen bundle structures and elasticity. Essential oils such as eugenol, carvacol, linalool, caryophylline, and methyleugenol in holy basil are said to elevate both mood and spirit.

A study from the Pharmaceutical of Biology Journal shows that the holy basil plant has anti-melanoma and radioprotective properties. bosweillia

Boswellia, Boswellia serrata, Shallaki It is sometimes known as Indian frankincense. You may have seen it as an ingredient in a joint rub for arthritis or back pain. Boswellia is one of the most effective anti-irritants for skin known to man. It is not an herb exactly, but a resin that oozes from the bark of the boswellia tree. Sometimes we call it ‘bark tears.’ Boswellia is known to fortify all the systems of the body and rejuvenate the skin. It’s action calms, soothes and combats the stresses that cause skin inflammation, such as air pollution, UV irradiation, injuries, cuts and burns. continues

Q: A:

holy basil: courtesy of Sudhir M. Shah; boswellia: hjschneider/Shutterstock.com

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF THE TOP 5 AYURVEDIC HERBS FOR BEAUTIFUL SKIN Aloe vera

Lignin Barbaloin Sterols Magnesium lactate Hydroxyl acids Gibberellin

• • • • • •

(Penetrates tissue, and is an excellent carrier agent) Antibacterial Inhibit acute inflammation Mild anesthetic Anti-inflammatory Improves protein synthesis and enhances collagen matrix

Holy basil

Ursolic acid Eugenol, carvacol Rosmarinic acid Caryophylline and methyleugenol

• • • • • •

Antioxidant power Anti-aging Anti-bacterial, mood elevator Anti-microbial Improves skin elasticity Effective against acne and other skin conditions

Boswellia

Boswellic acids Terpenoids

• Reduces inflammation, swelling, itching and muscular pain • Improves absorption through skin

glycyrrhizic acid glabridin Glycyrrhetinic acid

• Soothes skin irritation • Inhibits tyrosinase, and thus reduces skin pigmentation (melanin) • Anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-viral

Triterpene saponins Madecassoside

• • •

Licorice

Gotu kola

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Stimulates collagen synthesis for tissue regeneration Anti-microbial, aids skin in nutrient absorption Anti-aging: Reinforcing the biomechanical properties of mature skins www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 85

organic & wellness|ayurvedic herbal secrets

Licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra, mulethi We know it as a sticky black candy, but I take it you are talking about the powdered root here. Indeed, licorice root powder is found in numerous traditional formulas, both in Eastern and Western medicine. It contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds that are used in the successful treatment of eczema and rosacea to soothe and heal the skin. It also contains glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhizic acid, which reduce inflam-

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licorice

mation and help soothe irritated skin. When licorice extract is added to cosmetic formulas in sufficient quantities, it can control redness, flushing and other types of inflammation. Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that causes pigmentation in response to sun exposure. It can also help diminish the dark pigmentation resulting from scars. It is a wonderful, natural skin lightening alternative to chemical hydroquinone. Glycyrrhetinic acid, which seems to have mythical powers over a traumatized epidermis. In addition to being credited with anti-inflammatory abilities, it also demonstrates anti-allergic, anti-viral, antibacterial, and hepato-protective benefits. Clinical tests point to this ingredient as an effective treatment for atopic dermatitis because of its ability to reduce redness and irritation. A Triterpenoid called saponin, which aids in the absorption of nutrients, making it a carrier for nutrients in skin care formulations. Gotu kola, Centella asiatica, mandukaparni I know gotu kola as an herb that is said to have the ability to increase intelligence, memory and support of the immune system. It grows like mad in my garden here in central California, and I eat

gotu kola

a few leaves each morning. But I did not know that it has also been used crushed to help heal stretch marks and scars. Triterpenoid, saponins, the primary constituents of gotu kola, are mainly believed to be responsible for its therapeutic actions. Apart from healing tissues, the herb is used for the treatment of various skin ailments and more serious conditions such as leprosy, lupus, varicose ulcers, eczema and psoriasis. Look for gotu kola in your antiaging, stretch mark and scar creams. The chemical composition (see chart on page 85) of these Ayurvedic herbs is highly complex, containing many nutrients and other bio-active compounds. The nutritional and pharmacological properties of the whole herb in its natural form result from synergistic interactions of many different active phytochemicals. Here is my attempt to list some of the phytochemicals that benefit our skin. n

Melanie Sachs, a certified Ayurvedic life counselor, healer and teacher, is sought after by some of the world’s leading spas and beauty schools. She has published Ayurvedic Beauty Care, and is recognized internationally for the application of Ayurveda to the beauty world. Call her tollfree at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax at 805.543.9291. Visit Sachs’ website at www. diamondwayayurveda.com. Sudhir M. Shah is the founder and CEO of OM Ayurvedic™, a North Carolina company dedicated to manufacturing only 100 percent natural and holistic products for the beauty, health and wellness markets, both for consumer and professional use. For more information, visit www.omayurvedic.com.

Page 86 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photos courtesy of Sudhir M. Shah

It reduces fine wrinkles. Since Vedic times, people have used frankincense for moisturizing skin. James A. Duke, author of The Green Pharmacy Herbal Handbook, lists wrinkle prevention as one of boswellia’s traditional uses. Gill Farrer-Halls recommends boswellia to rejuvenate skin and prevent wrinkles in The Aromatherapy Bible. It has the ability to produce more youthful looking skin. In 2010, the researchers at the University of Brescia in Italy found that women who applied Boswellia cream to their faces experienced much suppler, smoother and less oily skin within 30 days. It fights inflammation. Boswellia extracts have shown strong anti-inflammatory effects in vitro and in clinical trials. Boswellic acids, primary active constituents in boswellia, appear to prevent substances that cause inflammation from forming, according to a monograph published in Alternative Medicine Review. Although isolated boswellic acid is effective against inflammation, there is at least one known side effect: the inhibition of leukotriene biosynthesis—causing increased allergic reaction and histamine production. This is mitigated by lipids and polysaccharides in the whole resin. It is antiseptic and antibiotic. Boswellia has a long history of use as a wound dressing and antibiotic in the Asia. Anecdotal reports and historical use suggest that boswellia promotes wound healing and may help heal skin ulcers and pimples.

by Monte Zwang

way to wellness organic & wellness| the for spa-preneurs

changes for 2013 IF YOU COULD INCREASE YOUR revenues by adding cash paid services that do not require a big investment in equipment, would you be interested? Although this is absolutely possible, it will take courage and an open mind to change some of your perspectives on healing and health care. Do we know where the spa industry is heading, Ms. Day Spa Owner? If you are not a high-end spa catering to the

What about the wellness, alternative medicine, preventive health and complementary services? Wherefore art thou acupuncturists, naturopaths, nutritionists, Ayurvedic physicians and massage therapists? Are your practices growing? While we experienced a good level of growth between 2010 and 2011, revenues seem to have leveled off in 2012. Naturopathic and primary care physicians are actively seeking a

photo: Sergiy Kuzmin/Shutterstock.com

The medical and wellness industries are looking for a way to stabilize their income ... cash services are one way to go.

financially elite, you are learning that the market rate for what mainstream clientele is willing to pay is $59-$69 per month for massage and facials. Yes, the market has shifted, and the mainstream has voted. They love spa services and are willing to carve some money out of their limited budgets for these indulgences. At these rates, however, it takes many services to pay your rent. As you’re probably aware, this is especially true for skin care professionals, as product costs and supplies continue to rise.

profitable business model. I would recommend finding a way to merge with spas and other preventive health care professionals to establish a sustainable business model. The short story is that Mr., Ms. and Teenage Mainstream are looking for results at a value. Our clientele is getting both younger and older, and they are strapped for cash. They want our services, but they can’t afford to pay a king’s ransom for them. The spa industry has created the expectation that these opu-

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lent services are served up in a palace. How are we going to deliver that in today’s market? The medical and wellness industries are looking for a way to stabilize their income, and want to escape from insurance paid services. In their mind, cash services are one way to go. The problem is, they still think that they are medical clinics, and can deliver their services in the same manner that they always have, sans hospitality and personalized service for the clientele. Hospitals caught the “wellness fever” awhile back now, and started building facilities based on wellness and integrative health. This, however, is catering only to highly insured clientele who are not strapped for cash. The mainstream client is again left out in the cold. The mainstream clientele can only be reached if they are educated as to what preventive care is all about. They also need to be confident that investing their efforts and money into preventive care services will result in a declining need for health care services as they get older. If we are going to flourish collectively as a group of health, wellness, medical and spa practitioners, we need to start working as a team. We can make this happen with a fresh approach that encourages a blending of health, wellness, allopathic medicine and preventive care. What if I could show you how this could increase your revenues, profitability and business longevity? continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 87

organic & wellness|the way to wellness for spa-preneurs

are going to be competitive and earn your client’s trust and repeat business. Spas can benefit if they learn the standard medical practice of physician referral. This can happen either within a village setting or by establishing a working relationship with health care professionals located near your business. Referrals are earned and shared among professionals who know and trust each

If we jointly offer our services under a single roof, our clients will receive better care at a lower price. The long-term need for expensive health and disease care will be reduced.

together in a “Wellness Village” allows several businesses to operate under one roof, sharing a reception area, retail area and perhaps even many overhead expenses such as rent, advertising and administrative costs. Doctors need spas and spas need doctors. Often, having spa and wellness services offered by a medical professional in a more medical environment gives the client a boost of confidence. Medical clinics are a stressful place. Spas strive to create a peaceful and tranquil environment. I believe the two can coexist, and together provide a calming place that offers both health care and spa services. Who does a better job of front desk hospitality? Who has more clarity regarding consultative procedure and patient/client care philosophy? These items need to be clearly defined in order to create a positive and inspiring work environment for your staff. The future spa/wellness center/neighborhood medical clinic will have to do this if you

other. Spas do a better job than medical practices in terms of the appreciation and care they exhibit toward the clients that come into their business. Growing a spa business or medical practice depends on more than the knowledge and skill you have. It’s the hospitable and caring manner in which you and your staff communicate how much the personal well being and results your clients experience matters to you. I can’t tell you how many physicians’ offices I have visited where I am met with a surly, over-stressed, multi-tasking front desk staff that is curt when they are on the phone. I am then seated in an exam room, where I wait for a physician who races in 20 minutes late, appears to be disinterested in the professional service he is providing for the 10 minutes he is in the room, then races out without communicating what my next steps should be. The need to incorporate hospitality into today’s medical practices is what your patients demand. Spa professionals know how to do this.

Preventive health care professionals, spa and skin care therapists may not make as much money as M.D.s, but they appear to have a little more “heart.” Treating the client as a whole and helping them maintain optimal wellness is much different than healing them when they are sick. It is also much less expensive. Preventive health care saves money. Doctors intuitively know this, and are looking for progressive ways to deliver these services. Creating a healing and nurturing environment has been the goal of many spa operators. This is the case with a growing number of medical professionals. Beyond the scope of practice and licensing issues, physicians need to align with professionally trained therapists who can help them with stress relief, pain management, heart health, brain health, joint health, weight loss and fitness. Sounds like a spa and wellness facility, doesn’t it? Courageous skin care professionals, doctors, wellness practitioners and spa operators need to join forces, band together, form wellness teams and become ambassadors of preventive health care. If we jointly offer our services under a single roof, our clients will receive better care at a lower price. The long-term need for expensive health and disease care will be reduced. The services of both spa and medical clinics will become part of our clients’ lifestyle, not a rarely afforded luxury. The end result will be a healthier population that can afford to stay that way—and longevity for our industry. n

Monte Zwang is a principal at Wellness Capital Management, a company that provides cash flow and financial strategies to businesses in the wellness industry. He has been a consultant for more than 25 years, teaching business planning and cash flow management to entrepreneurs and company leaders in the health care, spa and hospitality industries.

Page 88 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com

What if primary care medical clinics become the true gatekeepers of health care? Patients need to have a relationship with their physician, which is primarily for preventive health care counseling, as opposed to treatment of illness and symptoms. The next layer of this equation is that there is an available base of trained health care and spa professionals. Joining forces

by Jennifer Gibson

want to organic & wellness| Ilook younger!

photo: Dusan Zidar/Shutterstock.com

nutrition and anti-aging ETERNAL YOUTH HAS NEVER BEEN promised to any of us, but what if we could feel and actually look five to ten years younger than we really are? It is possible, no matter what your current age. The trade off is a change in your current lifestyle in the form of nutrition. What kinds of food are you eating on a daily basis? I was introduced to a woman who owned a raw foods vegan restaurant in Chicago, IL. She educated me on the benefits of becoming a vegan, and supplied me with free food for three months. Within those three months, I ended up losing 30 pounds! My hair and nails started looking very healthy, and grew even faster without splitting or breaking. Plus, I noticed I had more energy and was not as tired throughout the day. My skin began to clear up and my pimples disappeared. It was as if a complete metamorphosis had taken place … and actually, it did. I could not believe what a difference I saw in my appearance just from eating certain foods! I went on to eat vegan for eight years after meeting this restaurant owner. My hair, skin and nails continued to get stronger and look even more amazing, and I never got sick—I never even got the common cold or the sniffles! This is especially amazing because I live in the “Windy City,” where it’s considered normal to get sick during the winter months. Today, I am a vegetarian rather than a vegan, because I do enjoy eating cheese from time to time. However I still minimize my dairy intake. I used to follow the vegan diet very strictly, but I believe we

should enjoy life, and eat what we want to eat. If you want to eat meat and dairy, by all means do so! Just consume these foods in moderation. If you are wondering where you would get your protein if you ate less meat, do some research. You

You can probably purchase them from a local spa, health food store or wellness clinic. Eating plenty of fruits and vegetables on a daily basis, as vegans often do, can be difficult. Regardless, there are many

will find there are tons of vegetables, nuts and legumes from which you can get your protein, and plant protein is the best form! What I know for sure is that if you want to look five to ten years younger, you need to eat lots of fruits and vegetables on a daily basis. According to the USDA, we need between nine and thirteen servings a day! That is hard to do unless you are a vegan, so I have listed several options: 1. Buy a juicer, along with plenty of fruits and veggies. Drink a fruit juice in the morning and a veggie juice for lunch or in the evening. 2. Take a whole food concentrate. 3. Consume a green smoothie or mixed fruit smoothie on a daily basis.

wonderful recipes out there; you just have to have the willpower to achieve what you want, whether it is a healthier, more beautiful appearance or a strong immune system that keeps you from getting sick. Only you can make the decision to commit. Raise a glass to your health and beauty! n

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Jennifer Gibson has 13 years of experience as a makeup artist. She has been a vegan for 10 years, and combines beauty, science and wellness to equip women with the knowledge they need to recognize their truest beauty from the inside out through her cosmetic line, TimeSeal Cosmetics. Contact Gibson at jennifer@timesealcosmetics.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 89

organic & wellness

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organic & wellness

SUPPORT WORKPLACE

WELLNESS

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

reduce lethargy, stress and fatigue

STRESS, FATIGUE, LETHARGY, CHRONIC headaches, nasal congestion and itchy eyes— do any of these issues sound like familiar client complaints to you? If so, your clients are probably among the millions of people who struggle through 40-hour workweeks, stuffy cubicles and long hours in front of a computer screen almost every day. As working people, they probably spend a larger part of most days at their workplace, and have little or no control over their work environment. While you can’t do anything to change the structure of their workplace or the nature of their job, you can certainly educate them on how to make their office surroundings feel more pleasant with the help of aromatherapy. Here, we address some common concerns that are specific to the workplace environment, and explain how aromatherapy can help alleviate these problems. All it takes is a few minutes and several vials of essential oils.

Mental and emotional stress Every job comes with its own set of stressors. There are deadlines to meet, targets to achieve and that inherent sense of competitiveness that pushes us to perform better. While positive stress leads to motivation, creativity and increased productivity, negative stress can erode a person’s spirit and results in chronic frustration, lack of energy and an inability to cope with pressure. If you ever find yourself leaning toward the latter, you can always count on essential oils to bail you out. Workplace stress may stem from mental or emotional factors. Mental stress can often be attributed to anguish over unfinished tasks or financial worries, while emotional stress may be borne out of relationship problems, conflicts with co-workers, a lack of self-esteem, parental guilt or failure to strike the perfect work-life balance. I find that individuals suffering from mental stress respond well to essential oils that are continues

BY CRISTINA PROANA-CARRION

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 91

organic & wellness|support workplace wellness stimulating but not overwhelming. I recommend a blend consisting of three drops each of lavender, bergamot, geranium and cardamom essential oils, combined with 1 oz. of vegetable oil, such as jojoba or almond oil. Applying this blend onto the back of the neck, solar plexus area and soles of the feet twice a day relaxes the mind, releases the tension from tightened muscles and inspires one to take on new challenges with renewed enthusiasm. If a client has been reeling from emotional turmoil, they need warming, comforting essential oils that provide “fodder for the heart.” The nurturing scent of sweet orange, the warmth of ginger and the uplifting properties of clary sage come together to form the perfect tonic for the soul. Combine four drops of each with 1 oz. of vegetable oils. Massage the solar plexus, the back of the neck and the pulse points on the insides of your wrists with this blend twice a day. Using four drops of each of these oils in a diffuser or aromatherapy burner in your office is a great way to stay relaxed, happy and positive throughout the day.

Lethargy Monotonous surroundings and grueling work can sometimes leave one sapped of energy and motivation, especially in the afternoon. The next time your client feels drained or drowsy when there is an abundance of work to do, advise them not to reach for caffeine—but instead give themselves a wake-up call with natural essential oils. Write out the following anti-lethargy recipe and instructions for your clients: Fill a 1 oz. spray bottle with distilled water, and add five drops each of eucalyptus, rosemary and peppermint essential oils. They should keep this bottle handy in their office, and spray their face with their eyes closed every time they find themselves slacking or losing focus. The invigorating and stimulating properties of these oils will help your clients stay alert and active at work, even during the typical post-lunch slump.

Nasal congestion Few people have the fortune of working in well-ventilated, spacious offices. Closed, airconditioned spaces are always packed with germs and allergens, which frequently cause congestion and other respiratory problems. Not surprisingly, many people feel anxious every time a co-worker sneezes. Some essential oils possess strong antiseptic and antimicrobial

Page 92 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo: Juriah Mosin/Shutterstock.com

APPLYING THIS BLEND ONTO THE BACK OF THE NECK, SOLAR PLEXUS AREA AND SOLES OF THE FEET TWICE A DAY RELAXES THE MIND, RELEASES THE TENSION FROM TIGHTENED MUSCLES AND INSPIRES ONE TO TAKE ON NEW CHALLENGES WITH RENEWED ENTHUSIASM.

organic & wellness|support workplace wellness properties, and can help guard your system from contagious infections and the vagaries of weather. Combine 1 oz. vegetable oil with five drops each of tea tree, black spruce and bergamot essential oils, and apply this blend onto your chest after a warm shower to clear your sinuses and get instant relief from nasal congestion. During office hours, you can even use this blend as a hand sanitizer and breathe

possess analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties, which can bust the most stubborn pains in an instant. Add five drops of each to a 1 oz. bottle of vegetable oil. Massage your temples, forehead and back of the neck with this blend to alleviate headaches and tendonitis. If gastric problems are the cause of your headache, apply this blend to your solar plexus area and massage with circular movements.

SPRAYING ROSE FLORAL WATER ON THE EYELIDS EVERY NOW AND THEN PROVIDES INSTANT REJUVENATION TO TIRED EYES AND KEEPS THEM FRESH ALL DAY LONG.

it in from the palm of your hands to keep your nasal passage from clogging up. At night, before going to bed, rub some of it onto your chest and the soles of your feet for restful sleep and overnight healing. Items such as phones and computers are actually fomites that transmit disease-causing organisms within the office space. Advise your clients to keep their surroundings clean and disinfected by spraying a blend of 1 oz. distilled water and five drops each of tea tree, eucalyptus and ravensara essential oils. Every time there is a bug in the air, spray some of this mist around you, and breathe deeply to protect yourself from infections.

photo: Picsfive/Shutterstock.com

Aches and pains Does a busy day at work often leave your clients with splitting headaches and sore muscles? Stress-related headaches may sometimes be debilitating enough to affect one’s personal life and ability to pursue other interests. However, the good news is that people don’t have to pop a pill every time an ache rears its annoying little head, because there are safer, natural alternatives in aromatherapy. Along with being calming and stimulating, essential oils like rosemary, peppermint, lavender and marjoram December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Dry, itchy eyes Spending an entire day in front of a computer screen is taxing for the eyes, and can lead to dryness, redness and puffiness. Spraying rose floral water on the eyelids every now and then provides instant rejuvenation to tired eyes and keeps them fresh all day long. Using essential oils in the workplace is an effective, inexpensive and all natural way to boost productivity and make the most of one’s work hours. Turn your clients onto the stress-busting remedies that your clients’ bosses won’t object to and their co-workers will thank them for! n

Cristina Proana-Carrion has 15 years of experience developing formulas for aromatherapy products for the health, spa and fitness industries. She has been a featured speaker at workshops and seminars in North and South America, and has shared her expertise on television and radio outlets. Proana-Carrion created her own complete aromatherapy line to address the physical and emotional stresses of daily life. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 93

ARANWA Hotels Resorts & Spas, Peru BY CAMILLE HOHEB

clockwise: Cusco Boutique Hotel; view of Machu Picchu; the energy cleansing “Secret of the Andes“ treatment, consisting of a wrap and massage on a mystical stone bed.

Page 94 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

organic and wellness

ARANWA HOTEL AND RESORT IN Peru delivers a stunning array of healthy experiences for the mind, body and spirit. It promotes healing traditions in Incan and Oriental wisdom, as well as modern medical technology—all while offering the splendid culture of Peru. Aranwa is owned and operated by the Alvarez family, which also owns the largest medical network in Peru. Dr. José Alvarez Blas is the family patriarch. His deep respect and love for Andean and Spanish colonial ancestry is evidenced by the beautiful antique artifacts he hand selected for the Aranwa properties. I interviewed Dr. Alvarez’s son and the deupty general manager for Aranwa, Gabriel Alvarez. The following is an edited excerpt from the interview transcript. Would you like to remark on your father or family’s vision for Aranwa? Aranwa’s vision is underpinned by the fact that we are a family owned business, a Peruvian company looking to bring out the best in Peru for the world to see. My father’s origins are in the rural areas of Peru, and his ability to become a successful heart surgeon and later a hotelier is a story that motivates us into further growth as a company. From our first forays into health care, our business has always had an eye on social responsibility, installing free day clinics, providing free cleftpalate surgeries and being a pillar in the community wherever we are located. With regards to GABRIEL ALVAREZ hospitality, we have aimed to maintain and grow this area, working together with a local nongovernmental organization to support the conservation of marine wildlife, as well as building and staffing a medical center in the community close to our Sacred Valley property. Through this, the family’s vision is matched to that of the company, enabling both to develop in synergy.

UNNO SPA offers weight and stress reduction programs, beauty and anti-aging and recuperative services to harmonize the mind, body and spirit. Customized programs ranging from 3-10 days are developed and managed by a professional team, which includes a resident doctor, nutritionist, chef and therapists. Incorporating the latest technology, the spa includes a hyperbaric chamber, hydrotherapy pools, Vichy showers and a meditation area with piped in oxygen to reduce fatigue.

photos courtesy of Aranwa Hotels Resorts & Spas

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above: hydrotherapy pools at Unno Spa

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How do you define wellness tourism or wellness travel? Wellness travel is when one travels for more than the destination, and more than the experience of getting to know another location. It embodies a type of travel that helps one improve their physical state or even their mental state. Yoga escapes fit into this category for instance, but also tranquil meditation sojourns. In that sense, medical tourism is only one example of the broader spectrum of wellness tourism. What is unique about the Aranwa Hotel brand? Our medical background—and owning the largest private health care hospital chain in Peru—gives us a unique perspective when it comes to understanding wellness as a part of the guest’s stay at the hotels. From one of the largest spas in South America in our Sacred Valley property, to the oxygen enriched environment within the

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December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

rooms at our Cusco Boutique hotel, to the special menus that can be created by our senior chefs, the focus is always on well-being. How do art and culture contribute to wellness? It brings a sense of place and identity that is unlike what you find in other places in Latin America. The art collection and furnishings in each hotel belongs to our family, and has been amassed during years of travel throughout Peru, be it houses in Arequipa, Cusqueño haciendas or casonas in Barranco, Lima. Each piece has a story, a legend that is waiting to be heard. I could not agree more with Gabriel. During my visits to two of their locations, I felt as if I was on a journey of discovery. It seemed as if each design feature, decoration, spa treatment and menu item had its own story to tell. My visit to Aranwa Hotel in Cusco was breathtaking in many ways. The restored 17th century hacienda is situated in the city center, offering prime locations just steps away from the main plaza. Original oil paintings, religious statues and handmade wooden furniture dating back hundreds of years are mixed with contemporary fixtures such as crystal chandeliers and sconces, creating an opulent environment. I was offered coca tea upon check-in, which is used to help prevent or reduce altitude sickness. Then I was escorted to my beautiful room by the bellman, who was quite knowledgeable about the fine details of the property. He pointed out the control panels that provide oxygen (oxygenated rooms also prevent altitude sickness), heat the floors and control the jets in the hot tub. The fabulous bathroom had a multi-stream shower, towel heater and a separate area for the toilet and bidet. A balcony with a street view of the main plaza featured original wooden double doors, complemented by a sturdier set of heavy soundproof doors. At the end of this long travel day, I was exhausted. I took pleasure in the continues

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www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 95

organic and wellness

“Aranwa” means story or legend in native Andean dialect, and the hotel brand was aptly named for creating unforgettable guest experiences.

a fully functioning fireplace, a sunk in hot tub and a relaxation area overlooking the river walk. The bed was large relaxation area of Unno Spa at Sacred Valley, where oxygen is pumped in to restore and rejuvenate

it is surrounded by mountains beside a river tributary. My hotel room overlooked the Urubamba River just yards away, which gave me a sense of joy. My room was decorated with beautiful original oil paintings, a full size dining room table and kitchenette, a living room area with Andean shaman

and comfy. Oh, the wonderful feeling of contentment! Synthia Serrano, the director of Unno Spa, has a warm and engaging personality that demonstrates how much she truly cares about the health and wellbeing of her guests. “Aranwa” means story or legend in native Andean dialect, and the hotel brand was aptly named for creating unforgettable guest experiences. My most cherished memory is of the time I spent with an Andean shaman, who predicted my future through the reading of coca leaves, blessed me in Latin, Spanish and Quechua, chanted ceremonially and cleared my aura. The Shaman escorted me to a stone hut, where mud was applied to my limbs, stomach and chest to aid in further detoxifation, and we chanted some more.

The bright Andean colors, clothing and ritual elements of coca leaves, condor feathers, volcanic mud and the smell of burning wood combined with carefully placed daisies leading the way to the ritual space. This was a high-sensory experience and memory. Another day after hiking the mystical and magical Machu Picchu, Unno Spa was there for me to get my weary muscles massaged. Well-being includes healthy, nutritious food. I asked the head chef, Carlos Zamora, about the inspiration for the cuisine at Aranwa. “The inspiration of the Aranwa kitchen is to prepare food with love,” he explained. “The most important thing is that we work together to support local, organic, indigenous and authentic food.” Aranwa places a high value on harmony with nature, an appreciation for culture and peaceful relaxation. When I left, I felt truly fulfilled from all the one of a kind experiences I enjoyed during my time there. n

Camille Hoheb is the founder of Wellness Tourism Worldwide (WTW), whose mission is to improve well-being and economic growth through travel. Hoheb has held advisory board positions with several associations. She speaks on the topic of wellness tourism all over the world and is a contributing writer for numerous publications. For more information, visit www.wellnesstourismworldwide.com, www.wellnesstraveljournal. com or www.camillehoheb.com.

Page 96 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

top and bottom photos courtesy of Camille Hoheb

heated bathroom floor, decompressing in a swirling bubble bath and relishing a colorful sunset from a private patio. The other location I visited is quite different. Located in the Sacred Valley,

at left: Synthia Serrano (director of Unno Spa) and Camille Hoheb

Ohashi, a renowned writer, lecturer and author of six books and nine DVDs, has launched a new hour long DVD dedicated to addressing lower back pain, a common ailment among adults. In his New Ohashi Method, models with limited range of motion and back pains demonstrate Ohashi’s techniques for treating the neck, shoulders and legs, releasing tension and reducing pain in the lower back. Ohashi also shares tips on how to determine whether pain is from physical or emotional causes. www.ohashi.com

PHILANTRHOPIC SIPS Teatulia Organic Teas provide a wide range of clean, smooth, exquisite teas with an abundance of antioxidants and health benefits. All sales of Teatulia teas, which are grown in Northern Bangladesh’s Tetulia region, are contributed to the mission of Bangladesh education and rebuilding the local ecosystem. www.teatulia.com

THIRST QUENCHING COCKTAIL

RELAXING FRAGRANCE Create a healthy and profoundly relaxing environment through any of the 30 fragrances in The SOI Company’s line of 100 percent all natural handcrafted soy candles. The soy oil from these candles burns soot free and transforms into skin moisturizer. www.thesoico.com

Feed thirsty skin with the Pamela Bond Skin Fitness Cranberry Cleansing Gel, a moisture rich face cleanser that adds hydration while washing away impurities and all traces of makeup on the skin without stripping it of precious oils. Free of soap and sulfate, it is enriched with cranberry fruit, shea butter and calendula. www.pamelabond.com

ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS

TARGETED BODYWORK

ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES MORE NEWS

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 97

ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS

PRIVATE LABELING PROGRAM Elemental Herbs, the maker of organic, herbal-based formulas, offers its private labeling program to help companies keep their brand names on consumers’ lips. Products available for private labeling include Elemental Herbs’ sunsticks, zinc based sunscreen and lip balms. “Quality promotional items make a lasting impression,” said Elemental Herbs founder Caroline Duell. “With Elemental Herbs’ private label products, companies make a bold statement not only about the high caliber of their brand through the use of these organic-based formulas, but also about their commitment to ecological and social responsibility.” www.elementalherbs.com

VITAMIN VITALITY The new VitaD Fortified™ Illuminating Duo from Skin Authority is a revolutionary way to reduce a vitamin D deficiency. It combines a topical elixir to assist the skin’s immune defense and its ability to produce vitamin D with an ingestible whole foods powder to replenish the body’s internal levels of vitamin D. www.skinauthority.com

SOOTHING SET Treat your clients to a relaxing winter facial with PCA Skin’s Hydrate: Therapeutic Oat Milk Mask Treatment Set. The Hydrate mask is a powerful combination of antioxidant-rich oat milk, panthenol and additional botanicals like cucumber and arnica, which alleviates inflammation, hydrates and improves the overall integrity of the skin. The Replenishing Gel and Calming Balm, both treatment enhancement products, soothe and calm skin while providing additional antioxidant protection postprocedure. www.pcaskin.com

POWERFUL PEPTIDES Visibly contour, plump, moisturize and nourish dry and/or maturing skin with the Pepto-Collagen Firming Masque from Nature Pure Labs. The powerful age resisting peptide Dermaxyl™, soy isoflavones and hippophae oil smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The creamy firming masque also contains an abundance of other natural ingredients, including collagen, almond oil, avocado oil, aloe vera, green tea, chamomile, pomegranate and vitamins A, E and F. www.naturepure.com

Page 98 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

The Raw Skin Care line by the Red Cherry Group introduces the new organic Smoothling Serum, which provides highly scientific therapy without toxins, parabens, synthetics, stabilizers and emulsifiers. Made from certified organic cold press unrefined virgin argan oil, it delivers nourishing, moisturizing properties of vitamin E, omegas and super antioxidants to skin that is dry or afflicted with rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis and chronic sensitivity. www.redcherrygroup.com

SPICY SENSATION Osmosis Skincare introduces their new Cinnamon Kiss lip gloss, a delightful enhancement to the Osmosis Colour collection. Your clients can enjoy the natural scent of grapefruit and strawberry while keeping their lips soft and hydrated! www.osmosisskincare.com

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

BOTANICAL BLEND The Skintense Pure Whipped Shea Butter from Botanolution™ is a semisolid, luxurious vegan body butter that melts immediately on contact with the skin. It glides and absorbs readily into the skin without leaving behind any oily residue. Shea butter protects skin from UV rays, acting as a natural sunscreen. It intensely moisturizes and replenishes thirsty skin cells, while cocoa butter helps prevent stretch marks and gives it a pleasant, subtle chocolate scent, says the company. www.botanolution.com

ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS

ORGANIC HYDRATION

MELTED MAGIC If you are looking for something unique and soothing to add to your spa’s retail lineup, try the Creative Energy Candle, an organic, hand-poured and scented soy candle. When it burns, it melts into a healthy, aromatic body lotion with natural anti-aging properties, and has a moisturizing effect on the skin, says the company. www.creativeenergycandles.com

ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 99

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foundation: prescription for a flawless finish by Stacy Hanes

Foundation should add just enough emollient to leave the skin dewy—protected but not oily—when used in conjunction with products worn under makeup.

FOUNDATION IS AS VITAL TO SKIN care as an appropriate finishing cream, yet estheticians tend to draw an imaginary line between skin care and makeup. Even though it is a product that many women wear for more than eight hours every day, it is addressed as a secondary subject, chosen only for color and coverage features. A thorough esthetics experience should include an excellent skin diagnosis, long-term treatment plan and thoughtful individual home care, including a foundation prescription. Prescribing a different foundation for oily, dry and sensitive skins may sound daunting, but an improper makeup selection can result in flaking, inflammation and breakouts. Who wants to have their clients leaving their treatment room only to apply substandard foundation over the beautiful skin they’ve just worked so

it is important to start by looking at how much supplemental hydro-lipid film your client needs. Foundation should add just enough emollient to leave the skin dewy—protected but not oily—when used in conjunction with products worn under makeup, not to mention the client’s natural oil. Too little emollient leaves skin dry and at risk for sensitization. Too much emollient causes makeup to melt and slip off the skin. Once you have established the necessary emollient content, be aware of comedogenicity for oily or acneic skins. Comedogenic ingredients clog pores by forming comedones, which can develop into inflammatory lesions. This is certainly not the flawless finish you are working to achieve! When working with oily or congested skins, the same rules that apply to home care apply to makeup: avoid comedogenic ingredients, especially in large amounts. Examine ingredient lists and steer clear of D & C red dyes, or cer-

tain fatty acid esters such as isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate or myristyl myristate. Lists of comedogenic ingredients are readily available, and can be especially helpful when identifying ingredients best avoided by your congestion-prone clients. Sensitive skin requires special consideration as well. Reactions to sensitizers may include rashes, dryness, burning, general redness or papules. Diligently read labels in order to avoid preservative-heavy formulations or common sensitizing fragrances such as benzyl benzoate, geraniol or isoeugenol. You may also want to avoid products containing Triethanolamine (TEA) or Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT). Both have been shown to cause sensitization in those prone to dermatitis. Keep in mind that ingredients that damage one person’s skin may be fine or even beneficial to another. One kind of foundation will not fit every skin type. Educating yourself on makeup and including it as part of a complete home care program is an excellent way to add revenue to your business, value to your services and offer your clients a sophisticated finish to their treatment. As an educated skin care professional, be sure to avoid faulty makeup that will negate an otherwise flawless service. n Stacy Hanes is an instructor of esthetics at the Euro Institute of Skin Care near Seattle, WA. She received her training in esthetics under the guidance of Euro Institute’s founder, Annemarie Camenzind, and her management training with Four Season Hotels. Hanes is a graduate of the University of Washington.

Page 100 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo: Seprimor/Shutterstock.com

hard to achieve? Apply the same concepts you use to develop general home care programs to makeup prescriptions. Your client’s makeup will reinforce your home care rather than sabotage it. For the benefit of your client’s skin,

image

FABULOUS and festive

STEP BY STEP GUIDE

AS 2013 QUICKLY APPROACHES, we begin our list of resolutions and goals for the year to come. However, our number one goal is to always look our best for the many festive social functions and holiday gatherings that fill our year-end calendars. Your clients may want to show off a slightly more glamorous side of themselves to those who frequently only see them in office suits and conservative attire. Here is my piece of advice to help them make some fun December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

BY TEAL DRUDA

changes, mix up their beauty routines and add a bit of holiday sparkle to their parties. I suggest the timeless look of a simple iridescent eye with a contoured crease. It is a classic holiday eye that can easily translate from day to evening, and looks spectacular at holiday events. By switching up the colors you use and how boldly you use them, this basic guide can be a useful template to achieve several different final results. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 101

image|fabulous and festive START WITH A SMOOTH, WELL BLENDED FOUNDATION THAT MATCHES YOUR CLIENT’S SKIN TONE.

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image|fabulous and festive 1

Prep

Start with a smooth, well blended foundation that matches your client’s skin tone. Be sure to blend along the jaw line and into the neck, so there are no quick color changes along the edge of the face. Set with a translucent powder. Personally, I prefer using a loose powder and a large powder brush. A good eye shadow primer is always recommended for maximum staying power, and for the pigments to be true to the color.

The lid and underneath the brow 3

With a flat shadow brush, cover the eyelid from the center from the lashes to the brow, with a shimmery gold or silver eye shadow, blending it out to the edges of the eye. I always love something a bit more golden hued, as it is flattering to most skin tones. Be sure to take it to the inside corners and under the tear duct to give it a brightening effect and open the eyes.

Liner Using a small angle brush and a black or dark brown shadow or wet/dry liner, start from the inside corner of the eye, following along the lash line to the middle of the lid. From the outside end of the lashes, bring the line in to meet in the middle, connecting the liner. Play with the thickness of the outside edge by following the curve of the lower lid to create a cat eye point and more drama. Using a clean brush, tap a highly reflective or sparkly shadow to the corners under the lower lid.

Crease Using a beveled crease brush and a brown or taupe colored shadow, make an arch of the shadow color through the deepest part of the socket. Without adding more pigment, go back over the same area with the same brush, back and forth over the initial arch, blending it out and up toward the end of the brow on the outside. If you mistakenly apply too much of the dark color in one area, you can always use some more of the lid and brow bone color to soften any distinct edges. Finish up the eyes with a coat of mascara, then apply false lashes, adding a couple more thick coats of mascara to blend the false lashes with the real ones. Using the same black (or dark brown) liner, touch up over any glue that still may show, even when dry. continues December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 103

image|fabulous and festive

PHOTOGRAPHER: ANGELA MARKLEW MODEL: KORRINA RICO MAKEUP & HAIR: TEAL DRUDA

LOOKING ONE’S BEST FOR THE HOLIDAYS IS ALWAYS A FABULOUS WAY FOR ANYONE TO FEEL GOOD ABOUT THEMSELVES AND END THE YEAR WITH A STRONG SENSE OF SELF CONFIDENCE. Contour and blush Brush a blush with a peachy pink glow over the apples of the cheeks, smoothing it up along your cheekbones. A radiant glow can be added by tapping some of the lid (and brow bone) shadow onto the top edge of the cheekbone, blending it into the blush color. Finish it off with a red lip stain or lipstick, making a “snowflake” in the center of the bottom and top lips, using the reflective or sparkly pigment under the eyes.

Looking one’s best for the holidays is always a fabulous way for anyone to feel good about themselves and end the year with a strong sense of self confidence. Ringing in the New Year on that same high note is the perfect way to bring the year full circle, and motivate your guests to continue their beauty routines. Happy holidays to all the lovely gems out there—help your beautiful clients shine brightly in the New Year! n

Teal Druda is an industry veteran who has been a practicing makeup artist for more than 15 years. Her work has been featured in fashion magazines and music videos. Druda also shares her artistry with clients such as Marie Claire, ABC and Relativity Media. She resides in Los Angeles, CA.

Page 104 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

by Dori Soukup

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transform your makeup business

7 steps to increased revenue! MANY SPAS AND SALONS OFFER makeup, but in most cases, it’s stuck in a corner of the spa like an afterthought. Ensuring the success of this department is usually not a main focus. I often wonder why spas and salons even offer makeup, since it just seems to sit there collecting

of your makeup offerings, enticing them to purchase and repurchase. Here is a sample of what your makeup menu should include: • Lessons for teens: A large segment of your clientele consists of women in their 40s or 50s, and many of them

•

Plan a makeup event at least once every three months. Launch makeup promotions, offer a gift with a purchase and feature an added value. • dust. It’s time for change! The following are seven easy steps to turn your makeup studio into a mega revenue source!

1. Proper positioning

photo: Shots Studio/Shutterstock.com

Makeup can be a big income generator when it is positioned properly. Your makeup studio should be located in a well-lit area, with a makeup mirror and a proper makeup chair. It should be clean, attractive, organized and inviting for your clients.

2. Develop a makeup menu Neglecting to create a makeup menu is a major missed opportunity. Normally, consumers just see one phrase or paragraph about makeup on the entire menu. Instead, try providing them with a rack card or a separate insert describing all

have teenage girls in need of your help. Launch a campaign targeted to all of the mothers you work with, advertising your services to educate their daughters on how to properly apply makeup, and what type of makeup to purchase. You can even turn these services into a motherdaughter lesson! • Special occasion application: We all have special occasions to attend, where it is important to make a great impression. Unfortunately, most of your clients probably are not aware that you offer special occasion services; which causes both you and your clients to miss out on great opportunities. • Wedding makeup: This is a very big business to tap into. You have a chance to work with the bride and her

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

•

entire wedding party! You can offer pre-wedding programs for the bride, and possibly even the bachelorette party! If you have a salon, you can also do their hair. Offer complete wedding programs. Expert makeover and seasonal refresher: We all could use a makeover sometimes! Offer a seasonal refresher to help your clients look their best through seasonal changes. They should experience a seasonal refresher at least once every three months. Post-treatment mini application: No woman wants to leave the spa without makeup after a facial. By offering a mini application, you will set yourself apart from the competition and create an opportunity to sell your makeup! Makeup products: Of course, you need to tell your existing clients about your makeup products and why they are so great. Develop your menu. Keep a hard copy to distribute at your spa, and also post it on your website. Watch your makeup sales grow!

3. Marketing your makeup Any business requires marketing in order to succeed, and makeup is no exception. Here are some marketing essentials for you to implement. Plan a makeup event at least once every three months. Launch continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 105

image

makeup promotions, offer a gift with a purchase and feature an added value. Create a “Discovery Makeup Station” so your clients can sample your products. Department stores sell billions of dollars worth of makeup annually because they allow women to test products, and you must do the same. Get the rest of your team to cross market to help build your makeup clientele. You can also tap into upgrade opportunities such as lashes, facials and injectables. Don’t forget about all the tools your clients will need—brushes, sponges, cleansers, eye makeup remover and so on …

4. Team makeup training Training the team is essential to your success. There are several schools that can train your team to improve their makeup skills and learn about the latest colors and trends. It is worth the investment if you are serious about improving your makeup business.

5. Business tools to sell products Use a “Guest Discovery Form” to learn about the clients’ needs. It helps achieve the look or results your clients are seeking. The form should be utilized by makeup artists to discuss your clients’ needs and serve as a communication tool that leads to recommendations.

6. Selling your makeup products To maximize your makeup business, establish targets and goals. Take the time to calculate the number of clients who visit your facility on a daily, weekly and monthly basis. Set targets for how much revenue you want to average per guest. Additionally, launch a performance based compensation protocol to motivate your team.

7. Measuring results Don’t forget to measure performance. Keep coaching the team until they reach the level of performance you are striving for! Makeup can truly be a great revenue source for your business, but you need to give it the attention it deserves. I encourage you to implement these seven steps, and watch your makeup business soar! n

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks globally in conventions and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.

Page 106 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

photo: Felix Mizioznikov/Shutterstock.com

Makeup can truly be a great revenue source for your business, but you need to give it the attention it deserves. I encourage you to implement these seven steps, and watch your makeup business soar!

The other essential item is a face chart, to be utilized as a closing tool. You can show the client all the colors and products you just used on them or the colors you are recommending. Having them see all the products and the total price helps you close the sale as they commit to the new look.

MAKEUP MAVEN Retail the Snakeskin Brush Roll from glominerals at your spa, filled with the seven most needed brushes to achieve any makeup look, including Powder, Blush, Eye Blender, Camouflage, Eye Base, Eye Contour and Eyeliner/Brow. Perfect for any day of the year, this will be a must-have for any makeup maven. www.gloprofessional.com

TRAVEL SAVVY The innovative, multi-functional and stylish Make-Up-Matte and BeautyBand Headband Set organizes makeup, skin care, nail and hair products and toiletries for travel. The Make-UpMatte™ contains a series of interior pockets to store brushes and other cosmetic items. The Make-Up-Matte tucks easily inside a purse, gym bag or suitcase. The BeautyBand headband holds hair back during face washing or makeup application. Both the MakeUp-Matte and the BeautyBand features a beautiful variety of cotton fabric designs combined with luxuriously soft microfiber. www.makeupmatte.com

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

ULTIMATE OPULENCE Offer the gift of glitz to your guests with Zoya’s Gilty Pleasures 18K Gold Nail Polish Topcoat Trio Gift Box. Made with real gold, the limited-edition full size color is exclusively part of the Gilty Pleasures velvet gift box set, along with two long wearing colors to cover in gold. These include the Zoya Raven (black) and Zoya Purity (white). Zoya Gilty can be applied over other nail polish colors to create their own 18K signature look. For more information call 1.877.903.3399. www.zoya.com

IMAGENEWS

KISSABLY SOFT The first color Organic Kiss Lip Glosses by Éminence Organic Skin Care are packed with nourishing oils and protective antioxidants. The lip gloss from Éminence’s Organic Beauty range glides on easily with a creamy finish. A touch of shimmer and a pop of color alongside almond, avocado and coconut oils leave lips moisturized and deliciously kissable! The glosses are available in three shades to flatter every skin tone. www.eminenceorganics.com

MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS MORE NEWS

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 107

IMAGENEWS

CHARISMATIC COMBO

MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS

EYES OF ENCHANTMENT Create stunning and longlasting party season looks with Nightlife Glam eye products from the Arabesque makeup collection. Glamour Eyeshadow (wet and dry), Glamour Eyeliner (waterproof), Color Touch Mascara and Glamour Lashes create captivating looks with a little bling! www.arabesque-makeup.com

The Seine-Sensation Eye Shadow by Three Custom Color Specialists consists of a mesmerizing deep green enlivened by a kaleidoscope of gold and silver shimmer. The wet/dry formula is finely milled, imparting a silky texture and smooth satinée finish. This versatile powder can be used as both a shadow and a liner, offering the best of both worlds. www.threecustom.com

HOLDING IT TOGETHER

BEAUTIFUL BROWS Bodyography Professional Cosmetics has introduced the addition of the Essential Brow Trio to their current product lineup. It features three matte brow powders in one compact, which flatters all hair colors. Paired with a brow or lash brush, the trio can be transformed into a multiuse product and applied as a liner or matte eye shadow. www.bodyography.com

The Lashe® Rapid Dry Adhesive is medical grade, produced in an FDAcertified facility in the U.S. The Rapid Dry Adhesive, suitable for more than 95 percent of clients, dries quickly, hardly generates any fumes and produces a very strong bond, says the company. Extensions can hold for a duration ranging from four weeks to the end of the natural lash’s life cycle, up to 90 days (depending on the client’s characteristics and care). It possesses maximum bonding strength, and contains pulverized rubber polymers for superior flexibility. The soft and flexible adhesive is formulated so as not to react and bond with itself. www.thelashe.com

Page 108 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

classified ads

products • distributors • services • training • new/used equipment • employment

PRODUCTS Refectocil Tint Pure Black, Blue-Black, Natural Brown, Light Brown, Deep Blue, Graphite, Chestnut, Red and Blonde Bleaching Paste. 1.877.547.5463 www.dermagraphicsinc.com

EMPLOYMENT Éminence Organic Skin Care is looking for their next outstanding International Trainer. Must be a licensed esthetician, have 2 years experience with Éminence products and willing to travel extensivly. Previous training experience an asset. Visit www.eminenceorganics.com to learn more. We are a French cosmeceutical skin care company distributed through a network of 70 business partners in 64 countries around the world. We are actually looking for an exclusive business partner in the USA. For more information please visit our website at www.ericson-laboratoire.com or send an e-mail to export@ ericsonlaboratoire.com

Image Skincare seeks Territory Managers to join U.S. sales force Are you an esthetician? Do you want an income with no limits? Do you have sales experience? Are you self-motivated with an entrepreneurial mindset? Would you like a flexible schedule? Do you LOVE this business? If you have answered “yes” to these questions and are interested in working for the most fun, dynamic and innovative company in the cosmeceutical industry, send your resume to resumes@imageskincare.com and visit http://www.imageskincare.com/pages/job-opportunities for a list of available territories.

MISCELLANEOUS Feeling Left Out? Place your classified ad with Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and get national exposure for a fraction of the cost. It’s just $2 a word, with a $30 minimum. Sign up online, and preview your ad before it is published in the magazine. For more information, please contact Maria Gil at 800.471.0229; e-mail maria@LNEONLINE.com; or visit www.LNEONLINE.com.

WWW.LNEONLINE.COM

DAILY BREAKING NEWS ... WEB-EXCLUSIVE ARTICLES TRADE SHOW INFORMATION ... AND SO MUCH MORE

ENTER

THE

STEP-BY -STEP

... ...

DRAWING!

Cinnamon Apple Holiday Facial This month win a grand prize from ilike organic skin care valued at $260 Check out the working steps from ilike organic skin care and enter the drawing for a chance to win!*

* WINNERS WILL

BE CHOSEN MONTHLY BY A RANDOM DRAWING AND WILL BE NOTIFIED BY E-MAIL. PRIZE WILL BE SENT DIRECTLY FROM THE SPONSOR.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

To place an ad, please call 800.471.0229 ext. 103, e-mail maria@lneonline.com or visit www.lneonline.com.

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 109

WEST | CENTRAL | EAST

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

West DECEMBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Distance learning available.

Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424. HydroPeptide Product Training Seminar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 10 a.m. PST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.

DECEMBER 2-3 2 Day “Skin-tensive” Training by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. www.skinscriptrx.com.

DECEMBER 3 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN.P Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

DECEMBER 4 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

Page 110 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

West Central East International

DECEMBER 10

DECEMBER 13

DECEMBER 3

Layering Technology According to Client Skin Type and Concern (Webinar) by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. St. Louis, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

DECEMBER 14

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

DECEMBER 11

Bio-HydrodermV2 Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

DECEMBER 9

Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

DECEMBER 10

Central DECEMBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.P Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

DECEMBER 11 DECEMBER 12 Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544. December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 12 p.m. C.S.T. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.E

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.P continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 111

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS East DECEMBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.

Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.

DECEMBER 2 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

T Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.P Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT

Page 112 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

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Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Pittsburgh, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Virginia Beach, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Virginia Beach, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

DECEMBER 9

DECEMBER 3 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.P Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2013 April 7-8 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Washington, DC. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013 September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2013 May 5-6 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

DECEMBER 10 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, ME. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

DECEMBER 11 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Pittsburgh, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Washington, DC. 877.PCA.SKIN.P

December 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 113

advertisers’ index Page Number

Reader Service No.

8................. 5 Star Formulators................................................... www.5starformulators.com............................................. 180 5................. A Natural Difference................................................. www.anaturaldifference.com.......................................... 232 56............... Allied Health Association........................................ www.alliedhealth.net...................................................... 209 74............... Beautiful Image....................................................... www.beautifulimagellc.com........................................... 183 6,33............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... www.bio-therapeutic.com.............................................. 139 42............... Biomani................................................................... www.biomaniskincare.com............................................. 276 9................. Bioslimming............................................................ www.bioslimming.com................................................... 335 116............. Darphin................................................................... www.darphin.com.......................................................... .159 109............. Dr. Jeff..................................................................... www.dr-jeff.com............................................................. .248 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. www.eminenceorganics.com............................................ 157 83............... Equipro................................................................... www.equipro-bty.com...................................................... 242 11............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... www.hydropeptide.com................................................... 278 7................. Image Skincare........................................................ www.imageskincare.com.................................................. 178 14-15......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, The........ miami.skincareshows.com................................................... 115............. Jojoba Company...........................................................www.jojobacompany.com.............................................. 108 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 119 27............... Le Mieux.......................................................................www.lemieuxcosmetics.com.......................................... 294 75............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................www.lucrece.com........................................................... .263 19............... PCA Skin.......................................................................www.pcaskin.com........................................................... 110 77............... Pibbs Industries............................................................www.pibbs.com.............................................................. 129 32............... Professsional Program Insurance Brokerage............www.medispa-ins.com................................................... 208 64............... Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................www.rejuvilab.com......................................................... 149 17............... Shira...............................................................................www.shirausa.com.......................................................... 249

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Page 114 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • December 2012

Pure & Safe

for even a newborn’s skin

Our HobaCare® 100% Pure Jojoba: The Professional’s Choice Aestheticians, massage therapists, and aroma therapists use our HobaCare Jojoba on their clients and, most flattering of all, on themselves. They know our jojoba is absolutely pure; it has no fillers, additives or preservatives. And, it’s incredibly versatile. Use our HobaCare Jojoba for: • removing make-up, facial massage, and deep-cleansing the skin • all massage modalities requiring direct contact with the skin • revitalizing hair and scalp • enriching the skin after a shower or bath • providing soothing relief from psoriasis • conditioning and softening cuticles • soothing skin after exposure to the sun • blending essential oils (our website has many useful recipes) HobaCare is non-allergenic. It does not stain, and does not clog pores or turn rancid. Our Jojoba has an indefinite shelf life.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #108 on reader service card

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