LNE & Spa - March 2013 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

March 2013

$7.50

STRESS-FIX

™

AROMAOLOGY

©Aveda Corp.

Clinically proven to reduce feelings of stress. Network-proven business booster.

a LESS STRESS FOR YOUR BODY “Our culture is to help our guests live well every day, and this line totally embodies that to the fullest.” –Brigette Mire, Indira Salon Spa, Chicago, Illinois

Aveda’s stress-fix™ body massage combines the power of aromaology, touch and breath for an integrated approach to beauty and wellness that focuses on high-stress areas of the body. Our professionals — and g uests — really fe el the difference.

LESS STRESS FOR YOUR BUSINESS “Stress-fix ™ is selling like hotcakes!!!” –Jeffrey Richard Cipcic, Jeffrey Richard Salon, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Stress-fix™ concentrate, body lotion and soaking salts are the same Ecocert-certified organic products our therapists reach for in spas and salons. Guests reach for them too because this family of Ecocertcertified organic products is a great way to take the spa experience home with them.

LESS STRESS FOR OUR PLANET “Aveda obtains certified organic ingredients to create as little stress on our planet as possible.” – Cindy Angerhofer, PhD, Executive Director of Botanical Research, Aveda, Minneapolis, Minnesota

Stress-fix™ aromaology contains certified organic French lavender, lavandin and clary sage from small organic farms in northern Provence, France. This is possible through a partnership with Plantes Aromatiques du Diois, which specializes in the implementation of sustainable development and ensures high-quality essential oils, which can be fully traced from Soil to Bottle in bases that are Ecocert-certified organic. SM

Ready to experience the difference stress-fix™ can make? Do it as part of the Aveda network. Connect with us at 888.382.8332 (888.38.AVEDA) or through aveda.com to learn more.

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CONTENTS MARCH 2 0 1 3

skin

Make a Point to Stand Out Botanical Brighteners Adjusting Treatments for Sensitive Skin Taking Natural Ingredients Into the Lab Developing Self-Care Skin News

VOLUME 28

N U M BE R 3

Liquid Cleanse

27 28

the benefits of juicing and detoxification page 60

spa

38 42 46

Earthing Liquid Cleanse Beauty Spectrum Protect Your Reputation Spa News

Developing Self-Care drawing from the earth page 42

organic & wellness The Wild Rose Nusta Spa, Washington, D.C. Inside Out Beauty Brain-Based Stress Reduction Be a Leader 98 Organic Vs. Natural 102 Organic & Wellness News 106

La Masia a growing success page 74

business

Stop Running a Non-Profit Business! La Masia A Village of Wellness and Healing Biz News

72 74

Whole-List-It Spring Trends Beyond Lavender Fresh Spring Forward Spring Season Nail Artistry More Than a Manicure Keeping it Fresh Image News

Spring Trends page 108

84 86 90 94

Nusta Spa, Washington D.C. page 86

78 82

image

49 60 65 68 70

107 108 111 114 117 119 120 123

extras

From the Editor 6 Spa of the Month: Narande Spa, Tempe, AZ 10 Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach, FL 21 Holistic and Organic 50 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers’ Index 130

Cover

courtesy of Fabio Salsa

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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SPECIALTY WORKSHOPS SPRING/SUMMER

2013 from the

EDITOR Are you a beauty enthusiast who loves makeup and all things beauty?

Are you an industry professional looking to enhance your career and increase your earning potential? DON’T MISS OUR UPCOMING WORKSHOPS AT A CAMPUS NEAR YOU.

MAKEUP

SKIN

HAIR

EXPLORE YOUR PASSION! Space is limited - register online at marinello.com or call

877.774.3593 for more details

Workshops vary by location. Discounts available for Marinello students and alumni.

marinello.com

HE 2013 MARCH ISSUE OF LNE & SPA CELEBRATES the start of spring! Most people consider this season their favorite time of year, and it is easy to understand why. Spring signifies freshness, bright colors and an emergence from hibernation. The warmth of the sun, beauty of the green grass and brightness of spring flowers create an all encompassing energy that gives us the drive and desire to accomplish more. As spa practitioners and professionals, we offer our guests a refuge of peace and tranquility. Living a pure life by going organic and being inspired by nature is not just something we can offer our clients, we can also achieve it in our own personal lives. Let’s take this springtime promise of well-being and balance into account for ourselves. Do things that you love. Laugh, be active, take some quiet time for yourself, read inspirational literature, take deep, cleansing breaths, commit to a detoxification regimen and spend time each day working on your life’s purpose. This will shift the tone of everything you do, as well as your interactions with everyone in your life. Treasure your own spirit and love yourself enough to take the time to achieve life balance by practicing self care. Anne C. Willis offers great advice about “Developing Self Care” on page 42. Read an informative article on detoxification from the inside out by Goldie Bonnell in “Liquid Cleanse” on page 60. Many spas are offering inspiration from nature through décor, therapies and the products they offer in the treatment room and retail. The beautiful “Holistic and Organic” photo spread feature beginning on page 50 offers a wide variety of nature inspired skin care and body products. There is no better time than now to energize your business and career by making plans to attend The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Miami Beach on Sunday, April 7 and Monday, April 8. The two-day event is filled with the most informative educational classes, dynamic speakers, cutting-edge products, equipment and opportunities to meet passionate professionals! Join me at the General Session, where I will be opening each day as this year’s conference host. May you all have a wonderful spring season filled with peace, harmony and balance! n —Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com

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MRLO_11546_LesNouvellesMag-SpringSummer_3.25x9.75_010713.indd 1

1/15/2013 3:05:00 PM

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 www.lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief exeCutive OffiCer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com editOr in Chief Denise R. Fuller denise@lneonline.com Art direCtOr Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com AssistAnt editOr Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com direCtOr Of sAles Aché Fougere ache@lneonline.com MArketing direCtOr Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com COnferenCe COOrdinAtOr Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com exhibitOr OPerAtiOns AssistAnt Mayli Bueno mayli@lneonline.com internAtiOnAl editOr Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

Contributors Rhonda Allison Jennifer M. Anderson Julianne Bien Patti Biro Goldie Bonnell Kris Campbell Teal Druda Susie Ellis Lance Harris

Szilvia Hickman Celeste Hilling Karen Hodges Jenny Hogan Barbara Marzulli Tim Maurer Lollie Onipede Melissa Picoli Susan Posnick

Jeri Ross Katie Saxton David Suzuki Dale Turner Karym Urdaneta Ivana Veljkovic, Ph.D. Dave Waggoner Anne C. Willis

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

® HydroPeptide, The Leaders in Peptides, will be providing training to skin care professionals seeking to specialize and enhance their understanding of the latest peptide technology, taking place at the following locations on the dates below:

Learn W h a t Yo u ’ l l

Retail Megasales

Zero Down Time Facials

Peptides Learn how peptides work within the skin matrix to provide lasting anti-aging results through our VLR Technology.

We cover a wide range of proven selling tips used by the most profitable spas to keep products moving off the shelves.

Learn the secrets to giving the perfect anti-aging peptide facial with no down time for your clients.

The Correct applied at Clinical with

Variety Levels Repetition

of Peptides

Upcoming Classes

So whether you are new to HydroPeptide, have been carrying it for years, or simply want to learn how the new VLR Technology can enhance your clients’ experience, we are here to help take your knowledge of peptides to the next level in a fun and relaxed atmosphere! Please contact HydroPeptide’s National Education Coordinator, Cassie Miller-Hart for availability and scheduling at 1.800.932.9873 ext. 116 or CassieM@HydroPeptide.com

Miami, FL

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Chicago, IL

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

New York, NY Wednesday, May 1, 2013

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Dallas, TX Tuesday, May 7, 2013

SPA

OF THE MONTH

DESERT TREASURE NARANDE SPA TEMPE, AZ by Dave Waggoner

NARANDE SPA IS LOCATED IN TEMPE, AZ AT THE BUTTES, A Marriott Resort. Narande means “alongside flowing water” in Japanese. This gorgeous 25 acre resort is constructed around a mountain that overlooks Phoenix and the surrounding metro area, commonly referred to as the Valley of the Sun. A serpentine shaped outdoor pool, four secluded spa tubs, a water slide and a 30 foot waterfall that descends into a koi pond are among the highlights at this special resort. There’s nothing more precious than flowing water in the desert, and water has always been a source of well-being. Honoring the tradition of water as a key to relaxation, Narande Spa is an ideal place to enjoy a refreshing escape from everyday life. Destination spas around the globe offer leisurely experiences for guests with plenty of time for pampering. For those who may not have the time for an extended spa vacation, Narande Spa offers an equally revitalizing opportunity to enjoy rejuvenating services and treatments. Set atop a scenic mountain landscape and focusing on the relaxing properties of water, Narande Spa is a refreshing retreat from everyday urban life. Narande Spa is the newest addition to the 25 acre Buttes Resort, a continues

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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spa of the month|narande spa STRUCTURED TRAINING IS VITAL TO ENSURE THAT SPA GUESTS RECEIVE THE BEST POSSIBLE TREATMENT EVERY TIME.

Claudia Dekker, director of Narande Spa

landmark retreat situated high above expansive views of Phoenix. This boutique spa, opened in September 2005, offers five spacious treatment rooms. They include a couple’s room, a rain-shower room for body treatments and an intimate salon and nail area. Spa visitors are invited to use the resort facilities, including a fitness center, two free-form pools with a cascading waterfall and lunch from the Market Cafe or outdoor bar and grill. Throughout my visits, I have gotten to know Narande’s spa director, Claudia Dekker. Her energy and expertise are infused into every aspect of this unique boutique spa. The old adage “great things come in small packages” certainly applies to this outstanding spa offering from the Marriott brand. Dekker’s mission for Narande is to be known as an intimate spa that creates an experience of renewal and relaxation for individuals and groups in the breathtaking setting in the heart of the valley. She is well on her way to accomplishing that mission!

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As I became familiar with Dekker’s approach to staff training, it became clear that the staff at Narande Spa takes it seriously. Structured training is vital to ensure that spa guests receive the best possible treatment every time. Narande Spa team members take part in hands-on instruction on all modalities. The massage therapists learn treatment protocols for the Signature Wrap, Reflexology, Desert Stone and Aromatherapy treatments. Estheticians are required to attend continues

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

Color Cosmetics... Skincare... Mineral Makeup... • Extensive Color and Formula Library • Full Manufacturing Facilities • Custom Formulations • Import/Export GMP Compliance • EU Registered • Low Minimums • Experience and Reliability

CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS LABORATORY / FACTORY / SHOWROOM

44 Executive Blvd., Farmingdale, NY 11735, USA 1 (631) 454.0444 1 (800) 345.3448 1(631) 454.0446 (FAX) DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA SHOWROOM Coral Trace Office Park, Building C

2605 West Atlantic Avenue, Delray Beach, FL 33445, USA 1 (561) 272.2008 1 (866) 392.4889 1 (561) 272.2014 (FAX)

MIAMI BEACH FLORIDA SHOWROOM

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Visit our website: www.ladyburd.com

Email: sales@ladyburd.com

Industry Leaders in Keeping the Planet Green. Éminence offers products with the highest organic standards worldwide including USDA Certified Organic, ingredients certified by Demeter International – the only global certifier of Biodynamic® products – and Biokontroll Hungaria. Éminence cares about the planet from harvest to production, packaging to delivery. We are committed to being the “Greenest Company in Town” with the following initiatives: Wind and Solar Powered Manufacturing, Sustainable Farming Practices, Handmade Products, Recyclable Packaging, Vegetable Inks in Printing, Recycled Paper in Outer Packaging, Biodegradable Corn-Based Packing Materials, Green Warehouse Practices, Hybrid and Biodiesel Car Deliveries, Green Transportation Support for our Staff, Green Community Supporter, Green Spa Program, ISO 90001/2001 Certified Manufacturing. We have taken our commitment to the environment to a whole new level with our new Tree Planting

NENC MI

Initiative – Trees for the Future – where we are committed to planting one tree for every product that we sell!

G AN IC

Boldijarre Koronczay President and Master Trainer

AR E

GREENSPA SKI N

See incredible results, naturally: 13% increase in skin density 25% increase in skin smoothness 26% decrease in wrinkle depth Results in just two months.

Awaken to younger looking skin with our new

containing argan oil and nutmeg seeds. Pair with the

Age Corrective Night Collection.. This advanced night

original Age Corrective Collection during the day

recovery collection features incredible antioxidants,

for the ultimate solution to the visible signs of aging.

vitamins, precious herbs and oils, plus an exclusive

Visit www.eminenceorganics.com to locate a spa

all-natural Anti-Aging Stem Cell Complex

near you to purchase this new product line.

THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1958 Toll-Free 1-888-747-6342 | info@eminenceorganics.com www.eminenceorganics.com EnvironmEntally rEsponsiblE providEr of prEmium skin C arE

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spa of the month|narande spa

RESORT AMENITIES INCLUDE A FITNESS CENTER, LOCKER ROOMS, MOUNTAINSIDE HOT TUBS, A POOLSIDE BAR AND GRILL, TWO FREE-FORM POOLS, A WATERSLIDE, DRY SAUNA, SPA CUISINE, VANITY AREAS AND SHOWERS. all vendor trainings, where they learn how to perform skin care services effectively and recommend the right treatments and retail products. Dekker values her vendor partnerships, and explains that the support from the local skin care companies she works with has been instrumental in the process of reinventing skin care offerings. This has played a large part in the recently redesigned service menu at Narande Spa. Dekker runs Narande Spa with a reverence for client satisfaction. “The Narande team consists of individuals who share a passion for customer service,” she says. “Extensive training is offered on how to handle difficult situations, how to confidently interact with guests and how to exceed expectations. Most of all, each member is empowered to do whatever it takes to make sure every guest is happy when they leave the spa. Being in a hotel setting, we are exposed to all types of clients, situations and expectations, all of which make being part of the team fun, challenging and ever-changing.” “Our guests often comment on the personalized level of service provided by our staff members,” Dekker continues. “We believe in making great impressions and taking ownership of

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our guests’ needs, and look for opportunities to make someone’s day. When a guest is celebrating an anniversary or birthday, we make a point to celebrate with them. We strive to exceed expectations while creating memories.” Narande Spa offers an intimate spa setting that allows guests to drop in for a massage or a facial that can easily be enjoyed during a lunch break. For those who want to make a day of it, the spa offers a beautiful setting. Guests can enjoy one of the largest freeform swimming pools (the length of a football field) in the Southwest, four mountainside spas, sand volleyball courts, four lighted tennis courts, a fully equipped fitness center and trails for jogging and hiking. Claudia’s leadership style is simple and straightforward. “I praise them frequently, and reward them for going above and beyond for continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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spa of the month|narande spa

THE NARANDE CUSTOM MASSAGE AND THE NARANDE CUSTOM FACIAL ARE THE MOST POPULAR SERVICES.

our guests and the team,” she replied when I inquired about her secret to staff motivation and retention. “They receive additional compensation when our guests mention their name in a comment card. All positive feedback is posted in an area where everyone can see and acknowledge their efforts. I keep them informed of all the marketing efforts taking place in order to keep them excited. Also, there’s an ‘Employee of the Month’ program in place, in which our best employees are recognized publicly.” Travelers looking for a great spa value when visiting Phoenix need look no further than Narande Spa. Monthly specials, weekend specials and deals of the day are available. Their service offerings include facials, massage, manicures, pedicures, body treatments and waxing. Narande Spa keeps the spa menu interesting throughout the year, celebrating Valentine’s Day by featuring the couples massage. In May, they

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discount gift certificates, as spa treatments are in high demand for Mother’s Day; the same is true for the holiday season. During the summer they offer a happy hour, featuring a great deal on a custom massage, facial and pedicure. Narande’s fall specials feature skin nourishing treatments, such as the very popular Adobe Clay Wrap. The Narande Custom Massage and the Narande Custom Facial are the most popular services. I can definitely understand why! Upon my arrival at Narande, I was greeted warmly and escorted to the locker room. The Gentlemen’s Facial that I experienced was expertly executed by my esthetician Kaylee. She used an invigorating seaweed mask as well as a remarkable pomegranate enzyme. The smells, texture and sensations really made this facial memorable. Following the pleasing experience of the facial, I had the best massage that I have ever had in my life! I say that not only as a licensed massage therapist, but as a person who has received many massages off all kinds. The warmed massage table, low lighting and expertise of the massage therapist transcended the basic massage into an impressive bodywork session here, which left me thoroughly relaxed and reconnected to myself, thanks to my talented massage therapist Jason. Both of my treatments started promptly, and I felt that I had the undivided attention of the therapist during each session. Aromatherapy was incorporated into each service, and the attention to detail did not go unnoticed. Narande Spa offers a variety of specialty massages. The Golfer’s Massage is designed to enhance performance on the greens, and the full body Maternity Massage is followed by a custom facial. continues

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

beauty

Sinfully rich, Shamefully sexy.

Indulge

Your skin will look as good as it feels when you use Satin Smooth Scarlet Berry Wax with Acai. Its fresh fruity aroma will tickle your senses while its enriched ingredients remove unwanted hair from your head to your toes. Available in both Hard No-Strip and Soft Wax for medium to coarse hair. Ideal for Brazilian bikini and all sensitive areas.

~ Love your Body without the guilt. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #304 on reader service card

ÂŠ2013 Professional Products Division For more information on Satin Smooth products, visit our website: www.satinsmooth.com or call our customer service line: 1-800-726-4204 â&#x20AC;˘ 13SS139151

spa of the month|narande spa

“I BELIEVE IN CREATING MEMORIES AND ‘DISCOVERING’ OUR GUESTS IN ORDER TO DELIVER THE MOST MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE…“

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Indeed, for an experience of renewal and restoration amidst a busy and often hectic world, Narande Spa in Tempe, AZ is the natural choice. n

Dave Waggoner is a licensed massage therapist, esthetician and certified laser technician. He is currently the director of education and public relations at Skin Script Skin Care in Tempe, AZ. Waggoner has a passion for all things educational, and he develops advanced classes for the skin care industry. For more information, visit www.skinscriptrx.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photos courtesy of Narande Spa

Other invigorating services include cellulite treatments, lymphatic massage, nail services and eye care treatments. Resort amenities include a fitness center, locker rooms, mountainside hot tubs, a poolside bar and grill, two freeform pools, a waterslide, dry sauna, spa cuisine, vanity areas and showers. Narande Spa makes an effort to give back to the community. Claudia explained that the Narande Spa staff members have the opportunity to participate in events benefiting Susan G. Komen for the Cure®, the Ronald McDonald House and Habitat for Humanity, to name a few. During Breast Cancer Awareness month, Narande Spa proudly donated five percent of all proceeds from their “Think Pink” package to the Susan G. Komen foundation. Narande Spa reaches out to hotel guests prior to their arrival and during their stay. Hotel staff is offered incentives to encourage spa usage. The spa also works closely with a public relations firm. Social media outlets such as Twitter and Facebook are utilized. Narande Spa also has a sales and marketing team who oversee regularly scheduled mass eblasts featuring seasonal deals. Picturesque dining at the Top of the Rock Restaurant attracts visitors and local patrons alike. The restaurant, which is nestled into a mountaintop, provides panoramic views of the valley. The culinary team whips up creative new American cuisine accented with whispers of the Southwest. Access to a business center and wireless high speed Internet are available. The hotel also features its own helipad. Warm and welcoming, The Buttes, A Marriott Resort opens its arms to business, leisure and family travelers. The hotel features warm décor and styles, inspired by Arizona’s colorful and distinctive landscape. As I was reluctantly departing from my exceptional spa experience, I asked Claudia if she could share her secret to success as a spa professional. “I believe in creating memories and ‘discovering’ our guests in order to deliver the most memorable experience,“ she explained.

THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

REGISTRATION ALL - INCLUSIVE

$60

2 - DAY ADMISSION

$40

1 - DAY ADMISSION

SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER BY 03/15/13 2-DAY ADMISSION IS $75 AFTER 03/15/13 1-DAY ADMISSION IS $50 AFTER 03/15/13

• All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical Facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track • Salon/Spa Seminar Management • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Image Seminar • Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • AIA-Aesthetics International Association • Spa Business Lounge • The Green Spa Network Village • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors

PRESENTED BY

WAYS TO REGISTER:

PHONE: 1.800.471.0229 1.305.443.2322 ONLINE: LNEONLINE.com E-MAIL: Registration@LNEONLINE.com

MIAMI BEACH, FL

MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

APRIL 7 & 8, 2013 ENDORSED BY

FAX:

1.305.443.1664

MAIL:

Aesthetic Congress Communications 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, FL 33134

Show Hours: SUNDAY APRIL 7

from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

MONDAY APRIL 8

from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER 1901 Convention Center Dr. Miami Beach, FL 33139 SPONSORED BY

HOTEL & TRAVEL INFORMATION EDEN ROC RENAISSANCE SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD

Superior Deluxe Hotel 2 miles from the Miami Beach Convention Center BEACHFRONT

$290

$310

MARRIOTT SOUTH BEACH SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD

Superior Deluxe Hotel 1.5 miles from the Miami Beach Convention Center BEACHFRONT

$259

RICHMOND HOTEL Superior First Class Art Deco Hotel

SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD

2 blocks from the Miami Beach Convention Center BEACHFRONT

$149 $229

STANDARD ROOM OCEAN VIEW ROOM

RED SOUTH BEACH HOTEL

$159 $229

$N/A $N/A $N/A $N/A

RATE INCLUDES: CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST

SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD

Moderate First Class 1 mile from the Miami Beach Convention Center ACROSS FROM THE BEACH

QUEEN BED KING BED DOUBLE BED

$119 $129 $139

N/A N/A $149

N/A N/A $159

CREST HOTEL & suites SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD

First Class 2 blocks from the Miami Beach Convention Center 1 BLOCK FROM THE BEACH

STANDARD STUDIO SUITES

SouTH BEACH HOTEL Moderate (limited service)

$129 $159

$144 $174

$159 $189

SINGLE DOUBLE TRIPLE QUAD

$105

$120

$135

3 blocks from the Miami Beach Convention Center 1 BLOCK FROM THE BEACH

ALL HOTEL RATES ARE PER NIGHT Plus 13% room tax and hotel resort fee (where applicable). Congress rates are subject to availability. CANCELLATION PENALTIES: $50 cancellation fee if reservations are cancelled after 3/22/13. Full one night deposit if cancelled after 3/29/13. Cancellation penalties are STRICTLY ENFORCED.

RESERVE YOUR HOTEL Visit our website: www.LNEONLINE.com E-mail: registration@LNEONLINE.com

Tel: 1.800.471.0229 Fax: 1.305.443.1664

AIRLINE AND CAR RESERVATIONS For discounted airline and car reservations contact Vivian P. Lodeiro at vlodeiro@expresstravelus.com or call 1.305.341.1200 ext 256.

AIRPORT SHUTTLE SERVICES Shuttle transportation from the airport to your hotel is available via SUPERSHUTTLE. Reserve your transportation online at supershuttle.com and save! Use group code 675C7 when reserving online. For fares, reservations and more information, please call 1.305.871.8210.

TAXI SERVICE Taxis are available to hotels and the Convention Center from the Miami International Airport baggage claim area. Fares from Miami International Airport to hotels and the Convention Center are approximately $35.00 one way. Fares to hotels and the Convention Center from Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport are approximately $75.00 one way.

GENERAL SESSION

DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS

LOCATED INSIDE THE EXHIBIT HALL

SUNDAY – APRIL 7 10:00 a.m. 10:10 a.m. 10:40 a.m. 11:10 a.m. 11:40 a.m.

Opening Ceremony by Denise R. Fuller Discover Your Purpose! (LECTURE) by Joseph Mandato Chemical Peeling: Essential to Overall Skin Health (DEMO) by Danae Markland Tropical Body Treatment (DEMO) by Linda Beach Getting Better all the Time: Makeup for your 40s, 50s, 60s and Beyond! (DEMO) by Tim Maurer

MONDAY – APRIL 8 10:30 a.m. 10:40 a.m. 11:10 a.m. 11:40 a.m. 12:10 p.m.

Opening Ceremony by Denise R. Fuller Bamboo-fusion®: Warm Bamboo Massage (DEMO) by Nathalie Cecilia The Truth About Essential Oils’ Safety and Quality (LECTURE) by Jimm Harrison AromaChroma Tone Facial Treatment (DEMO) by Nina Curtis Waxing Mishaps and how to Avoid Them! (DEMO) by Stephanie Laynes

DED INCLU WITH SION IS ADM

SUNDAY, APRIL 7 – SEMINARS MEDICAL FACILITIES, AESTHETIC AND WELLNESS CENTER TRACK 2:00 p.m 4:15 p.m

SALON/SPA MANAGEMENT SEMINAR 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.

ROOM C-219

Journey Into Profits With Aesthetics and Wellness Programs by Dori Soukup NEW Say Goodbye to the à la Carte Mentality and Hello to Innovative Multi Visit Programs! by Dori Soukup

ROOM C-220

Sales Strategies: The Changing Landscape of Spa Retail by Alison Howland How to Build a Spa Dream Team: Identifying Outstanding Employees by Alison Howland

NATIONAL AESTHETIC SPA NETWORK (NASN) ROUND TABLES ROOM C-221 4:00 p.m.

Solutions to a Successful Career by Denise R. Fuller - Mary Turner - Diane Buccola - Kaffee Keldie

MEDICAL ESTHETICS SEMINAR 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.

ROOM C-222

The Next Step in Your Career, From Salon to Working With a Physician by Susanne S. Warfield Emergency Medical Care for Your Salon and Spa by Susanne S. Warfield

AESTHETICS INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) 2:00 p.m. 4:00 p.m.

ROOM D-237

Failure to Plan ... is a Plan to Fail by William Strunk Reflexology: Health and Well-being From the Ground Up by Robert Sachs DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS

MONDAY, APRIL 8 – SEMINARS MEDICAL SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.

IMAGE SEMINAR 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m. 4:30 p.m.

ROOM C-220

Launching a Medical Spa Business by Lisa Travis Marketing Your Medical Spa by Lisa Travis

ROOM C-221

Creating a Makeup Boutique in Your Spa: The Four Steps to Successful Profits by Leslie Christin Build your “Celebrity” Status as a Nail Technician by Millie Haynam Luscious Lashes for Your Clients by Ellie Malmin

CUTTING-EDGE SALON/SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m. 4:15 p.m.

ROOM C-222

How to Get Financing or a Loan From Your Bank by Dale Turner Social Media as a Sales Tool: What You Really Need to Know by Tammy Finch How Costumers think: A Window Into the Consumer’s Mind by Leon Alexander, Ph.D.

AESTHETICS INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) 2:00 p.m.

ROOM D-237

New Age Marketing and Media by Mark McKenney DED INCLU WITH SION IS ADM

SUNDAY & MONDAY, APRIL 7 & 8 SPA BUSINESS LOUNGE - LOCATED IN THE EXHIBIT HALL ESSENTIAL BUSINESS AND COMMUNICATION STRATEGIES

NEW

An education and networking program brought to you by The Green Spa Network and The Spa Buzz 10:30 a.m. 11:00 a.m. 12:00 p.m. 2:00 p.m. 3:00 p.m. 4:00 p.m.

Start the day by mingling with your colleagues and enjoying some snacks and refreshments, compliments of The Spa Buzz Spa Operations: A Close Look at Team Building and Compensation by Green Spa Network So You Want to Start Your Own Product Line? by Green Spa Network Social Media Opportunities, and Other Marketing Tricks and Tips by Green Spa Network Expanding Your Retail, Plus Effective Displays and Signage by Green Spa Network The Spa Buzz Networking Round Table Moderated by Kristi Konieczny

WORKSHOPS SUNDAY APRIL 7 - 2:00 P.M. TO 3:15 P.M.

DED INCLU WITH N SIO D A MIS

ROOM C-223

MARTINNI BEAUTY Permanently Fix All Esthetic Skin Imperfections for Fast $$$ by Lana Yu

ROOM C-224

KOLLAGENX KollagenX – 24KT Nano Gold by Rikki Kusy

ROOM C-225

THE WAX CHICK Hard Wax Brazilians, Using Beelicious Hard Wax by Crickett Enos, “The Wax Chick”

ROOM C-226

GOLD COSMETICS How to Get Rid of Any Skin Problem in Only 2 Weeks by Zehava Roisman

ROOM C-227

BEAULIFE Cryolipolisis - Ultracavitation - Radiofrequency: The Treatments that Boast Some of the Best Results Ever for Noninvasive Fat Elimination! by Dr. Adrian Mobilia

ROOM C-228

INGRID MILLET Ingrid Millet, The Caviar Story by Nuhad Khoury

ROOM D-229

SAIANTM Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift, and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic / Microcurrent / Infrared Technology and Natural Clinical Products by Margarita Saian

ROOM D-230

DR. JEFF SKIN CARE / BEAUTY ATTICA Skin Rejuvenation With Himalayan Red Rice Stem Cells by Moises Estrada

ROOM D-231

LIGHTSTIM LED Light Therapy - Results and Rewards by Vivian McClanahan

ROOM D-232

A NATURAL DIFFERENCE Maximize the Power and Results of Your Treatments by Irene Stuckey

ROOM D-233

OSMOSIS SKINCARE A Supplement That Offers SPF 30 Protection! by Ben Johnson, M.D.

ROOM D-234

COSMETICA INTERNACIONAL MIGUETT Argan Oil: The Newest Anti-aging Active Ingredient (English/Spanish class) by Esperanza Vaca, M.Sc.

ROOM D-235

CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE The Truth About Oxygen and the Skin by Michael Q. Pugliese

ROOM D-236

PCA SKIN® Chemical Peels for Sensitive Skin Conditions and Ethnic Skin by Dawn Ahearn

ROOM D-238

ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARET Master the Hungarian Massage Techniques for the Instant Facelift by Rachel Norman

ROOM D-239

REPÊCHAGE Anti-Aging Skin Solutions: The World Famous Repêchage Four Layer Facial by Lauren Streeter

ROOM D-240

SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY 7-Minute Brazilian and Speed Waxing With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes

ROOM D-241

CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS Hyperpigmentation: The Most Difficult Skin Care Concern to Resolve by Gabriela Nunez

SUNDAY APRIL 7 - 3:45 P.M. TO 5:00 P.M. ROOM C-225

VITELLE LABS What Powerful Business Trends are Savvy Retailers Flocking to? It’s Private Label, and we can show you just how easy it is! by Aleks Vranicic

ROOM D-229

SAIANTM Newest Clinical Hyperpigmentation Treatment From the Anti-Aging Experts! Non-toxic Alternatives to Hydroquinone That Safely Whiten and Brighten the Complexion (LIVE DEMO) by Margarita Saian

ROOM D-230

DEPILÈVE Advanced Waxing Techniques by Deanna Henderson

ROOM D-231

MESOESTETIC Treating Melasma, Photodamage and Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation—Beyond The Peel by Dawn Clifford

ROOM D-236

DERMASWISS The Skin Cells’ Journey in the Germinal Layer—Where are They Going and Why? (This class is available in Spanish at Booth# 825 and 827) by Adriana Gomez

ROOM D-236

PCA SKIN® Advanced Peeling Techniques by Dawn Ahearn

WORKSHOPS

MONDAY APRIL 8 - 2:00 P.M. TO 3:15 P.M.

DED INCLU IT W H N SIO D A MIS

ROOM C-223

MARTINNI BEAUTY Cell Wave Micro-current With LED Photodynamic Therapy by Lana Yu

ROOM C-224

WILMA SCHUMANN Quickie Treatments … Biggie Profits by Karin Pappas

ROOM C-225

THE WAX CHICK Hard Wax Brazilians, Using Beelicious Hard Wax by Crickett Enos, “The Wax Chick”

ROOM C-227

BEAULIFE Cryolipolisis - Ultracavitation - Radiofrequency: The Treatments that Boast Some of the Best Results Ever for Noninvasive Fat Elimination! by Dr. Adrian Mobilia

ROOM D-229

SAIANTM Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift, and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic / Microcurrent / Infrared Technology and Natural Clinical Products by Margarita Saian

ROOM D-230

ANESI Parafango Waterless Body Treatments by Ruth Maldonado

ROOM D-234

HYDROPEPTIDE Peptides, Stem Cells Growth Factors Class—Don’t be Left Behind! by April Zangl

ROOM D-235

CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Physiology of the Skin by Michael Q. Pugliese

ROOM D-236

PCA SKIN Dispelling Skin Care Myths and Misconceptions by Dawn Ahearn

ROOM D-238

ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE The Organic Way: Treating Acne, Rosacea and Eczema With Natural Ingredients by Rachel Norman

ROOM D-240

SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY 7-Minute Brazilian and Speed Waxing With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes

MONDAY APRIL 8 - 3:45 P.M. TO 5:00 P.M. ROOM D-236

PCA SKIN® Hormones and the Skin by Dawn Ahearn

Visit WWW.LNEONLINE.COM FOR ALL WORKSHOP DETAILS SHOW HOURS SUNDAY, APRIL 7 FROM 9:30 A.M. TO 6:00 P.M. MONDAY, APRIL 8 FROM 10:00 A.M. TO 6:00 P.M.

EXHIBITOR LIST AS OF FEBRUARY 1ST 2013

A Natural Difference Skin Care Act 5 Cosmetics AIA- Aesthetics International Association Alex Cosmetic Herbal A-Peel Allegra M. France Amber Products American Biotech Labs Anesi Armesso mesotherapy Athena Beauty, Inc. Audrey Morris Cosmetics, Skincare, Spa International Authentic Wisdom, LLC B & S Beauty Supply Bamboo-Fusion® Beaulife Beauties City Supplies, Inc. Beauty Attica, Inc. Beauty Beauty, Int’l, Inc. Beauty Image Bellaire Industry Bio France Lab Biobliss Blason International Bon Vital’ Brazilian Blue Bronze Biologic Spray On Tanning Bubalina Celmonze, Inc. Centre For Beauty Christina Cosmeceuticals Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Clarisonic ClearFX Skin Coko International, Inc. Creative Energy Candles Crown Brush Co. D’vine Skincare Dectro International Depileve Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills, Inc. Dermascope Magazine DermaSwiss Dermclar North America Diamond Way Ayurveda Doctor’s Toy Store

DPC Int’l, Inc. Dr. Jeff Skin Care Elixir of Life By L’Alchimiste Éminence Organic Skin Care Enlace Hispano de Estética, Spa y Belleza Equipro Esthetics Association Florida Esthetique Solutions Evalash Eyelash Extensions Exel Aesthetic Biotechnology Exelencia Importers Extend Your Lashes Eye Kandy Cosmetics Fallene Ltd. Farah Cosmetics Formulary For Physicians, Inc. Gold Cosmetics & Skin Care Grande Hair Grande Lash-MD Green Envee Organics (h2t) Spa & Aesthetics Hairaway Hairmax Hale Cosmeceuticals HydraFacial MD® - Edge System Corp. HydroPeptide Ingrid Millet USA InSPAration Management J.M. Group JMT Group KollagenX KP. Beauty Products Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics Lemon Grass Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa LightStim Lôngmi Lashes MAD Skincare Magazine Service Outlet (CMS of Holland) Martinni Beauty, Inc. MEG 21 Mei-Cha International, Inc. Mesoestetic USA Miguett-Cosmetica Internacional Mindful Minerals Minkys Minus-Sol By Aledian

Monique Mathieu Nacach Wax Natural Benefits SA DE CV New Beginnings “La Seta” Wax. Nova Skin Peels Nutra Luxe Osmosis Pur Medical Skin Care PCA Skin Pink Horizons Botanical Skin Care Poo-Pourri PostQuam Cosmetic USA Private Label Dental & Salon and Spa Group Repêchage Rapid Lash Rena Levi Skin Care Revitalash Saian Sawan Shira Silhouet-Tone USA Skin Accents, Inc. SlimSpa Group Corp. Smooth Skin Supply, LLC Softap Solarex MD South Seas Skin Care Spa Manufacturer Direct SpaBooker Spai-Sons Pharmaceutical Int’l Spaware Software Sranrom Sun Laboratories Techno Esthetics, Inc. TEI Spa TH Stone The Unique Edge The Wax Chick Therapmedic, LLC University Medical VB Beauty Vitamix Vitelle Labs Private Label Vivant Wilma Schumann Skin Care WrinkleMD

skin

make a point to stand out

photo: Pindyurin Vasily/Shutterstock.com

by Jennifer M. Anderson

PRESSURE POINTS CAN BE incorporated into any facial at any time. If contraindications prohibit you from offering a massage due to red and irritated skin (rosacea, acne or post exfoliation treatment), simply focus on the main 15 points of the face. This pressure point treatment helps the client—and their muscles—to relax, and increases blood flow. This is accomplished without any vigorous massaging of their face or increasing the irritation. Pressure points treatment can be offered while the client has a hydrating mask on, and will be beautifully therapeutic right through the mask. There are 15 points on the face that represent areas and systems within the body, and several types of pressure points. Each point is applied differently, and each produces a different effect. Most pressure points are located on pathways of the nervous system. Some pressure points produce pain when struck, pressed or rubbed, depending on the point itself. These points are also referred to as “nerve centers.” In acupressure, you compress key energy points on the skin’s surface with your fingers to stimulate your body’s natural healing abilities. The different kinds of pressure on the pressure points achieve different results, but the most common type of acupressure application is firm, prolonged pressure that lasts between one and three minutes. You locate a point; sink in gradually with your finger, thumb, heel or side of your hand; then hold it for at least one minute to calm and relax the nervous system. The depth to which you sink into a point should be enough to cause your client to perceive it as a “good hurt”—a bit tender but also feels as if it’s doing some good. Remember to never break contact; rotate back and forth with your hands. March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

It is important that both you and your client breathe fully and deeply during the application of acupressure. The guest’s deep breathing allows the points to release pain and tension, and promotes the flow of healing energy throughout the body. The guest will have the ability to regulate the steady amount of pressure you are exerting with your finger, as the pressure increases with her inhalations and decreases with her exhalations, regardless of where on the body you are pressing. Your deep and steady breath will not only help keep you focused and centered on what you are doing, it will also remind your client to maintain a steady breathing pattern. Never apply any finger pressure in a jarring or abrupt way, and never lose contact. Remember to breathe with your clients. Avoid areas that have broken skin or recent scars. The Third Eye point is in the indentation at the bridge of the nose between the eyebrows. Acupressure applied to this point can relieve anxiety, stress, chronic fatigue and headaches. The Gallbladder 2 is a fingertip-size point where the top of the ear joins the side of the face. Acupressure on this point is useful for alleviating headache pain, especially vascular headaches and migraines. The Shoulder Well point is on the highest part of the shoulder, slightly closer to the neck than the midway point between the base of the neck and the outer point of the shoulder. It relieves anxiety, fatigue, shoulder tension and headaches. The Drilling Bamboo points are in the indentation of the inner eye socket just below the middle point of the eyebrows. Acupressure on these areas relieves sinus pain, congestion and eyestrain.

The Welcoming Perfume points are just to the sides of the nostrils, by the nasal crease. These points are good for sinus congestion and pain. The Facial Beauty points lie directly below the pupils, just under the edge of the cheekbone of the eyes. Acupressure on these points as your client is looking straight ahead helps sinus pain and congestion, as well as eye fatigue. Water is important, as an increase in blood circulation allows the body to get rid of waste quicker; therefore this pressure point treatment is much more successful if you offer the guest a big glass of water. Lastly, recommend that they take it easy for the rest of the day and continue to hydrate. Relaxation is important. It allows the guests to stop and take time out from the stresses and obligations of their lives. Relaxing is the same as hitting a reset button, and these buttons are pressure points! I encourage you to try working with these points, as practice will help you stand out for your expert delivery of the services you provide. n

Jennifer M. Anderson is a public speaker, master makeup artist and beauty industry educator with over 21 years of experience. She is a licensed paramedical esthetician who has been a member of developmental teams for skin care and makeup lines. Anderson formerly hosted the weekly Internet radio show About FACE on Rhino on Air, and is the owner of Skin Chic Inc. She has written curriculums for two Florida beauty institutes. Visit www.skinchicinc.com for more information. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 27

botanical

BRIGHTENERS photo: Carlo Dapino /Shutterstock.com

FOR DISCOLORATION AND DISORDERS

skin

BRIGHT, GLOWING SKIN IS A LOOK THAT MOST CLIENTS strive to achieve. Unfortunately, many skins have some level of hyperpigmentation brought on by a host of factors, ranging from medications to sun exposure, hormonal changes, acne or trauma. Pigmentation is one of the most unique characteristics of the skin. It’s part of what gives each person’s skin it’s own distinct look, determines susceptibility to UV damage and provides insight into how one’s skin might react to chemical peels and other treatments. However it can also present a wide variety of challenges. Skin pigmentation disorders impact a number of people regardless of age, race or gender, and can range from hyperpigmentation, demarcation, Vitiligo and melasma, to name just a few. It’s essential to understand skin pigmentation, how it impacts the skin, what challenges it might present and how to work most effectively with skin affected by pigmentation issues.

Understanding pigmentation Skin pigment is a result of melanin, which is produced by cells called melanocytes through a process called melanogensis. There are approximately 2,000 melanocytes per millimeter of skin. That is true of all skin regardless of ethnicity. The same amount of melanocytes are present in dark skin as there is in light skin. The difference is the size of the cell and the activity that occurs within it. There are three types of pigment changes that can occur. One is hyperpigmentation, in which the pigment darkens. Hypopigmentation occurs when there is no melanin or an absence of color. Demarcation is uneven pigmentation as a result of certain treatments, or excess picking and scratching. Hyperpigmentation can occur in any skin type—oily, dry, dark and light. Simply put, it is excessive stimulation of melanin in the skin that results in uneven, darkened skin tone. Excessive melanin production can occur from systemic (within the body) and extrinsic (outside) causes. Common causes: • Large melanocyte cells • Medications and chemicals • Sun exposure • Hormonal changes

SOME NATURAL ALTERNATIVES INCLUDE BELLIS PERENNIS FLOWER EXTRACT, A GENTLE, NATURAL BRIGHTENER DERIVED FROM DAISY.

• Pregnancy (which causes melasma) • Acne trauma and inflammation The primary extrinsic culprit of hyperpigmentation is the sun. Excess exposure to the sun impacts melanin by first creating oxidative stress, which oxidizes existing melanin and results in rapid darkening, and then by increasing the production of melanin within the cell. In many cases, the effects can be amplified with medications and chemicals (like perfume). In all hyperpigmentation cases, however, sun exposure inevitably makes it worse. The good news is that many discoloration disorders may be treated with melanin suppressants like hydroquinone (in safe amounts of 2 percent or below), AHAs and natural plant-based lighteners, kojic acid, azelaic acid and licorice root. In some cases microdermabrasion will reduce existing hyperpigmentation, however caution is necessary to prevent the overstimulation of melanocytes. Other peeling methods using enzymes and acids will greatly reduce hyperpigmentation but will not affect hypopigmentation. Treatment results vary greatly depending on discoloration level (cellular or superficial), but using a combination of home care and professional treatments, significant change and correction will be seen.

The road to brighter skin Hydroquinone (HQ) has long been used in lightening and brightening formulas as a way to correct pigmentation disorders, however this ingredient has also been met with some trepidation. HQ is a chemical used to inhibit the synthesis of melanin by blocking one of the enzymes in the synthetic pathway while destroying the melanocytes that produce it. When used in excess it can cause certain skin sensitivities, and because it in continues

BY RHONDA ALLISON

March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 29

• Azelaic acid, a grain and yeast-derived compound that suppresses follicle bacteria growth, helps normalize disordered cell growth and acne-related postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory support • Licorice root extract, a tyrosinase and photopigmentation inhibitor with antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties

A spotlight on botanical brighteners

effect reduces melatonin, it can increase vulnerability to UV damage. For this reason, there have been restrictions placed on the use of HQ in Europe and some parts of the U.S. The restrictions primarily stemmed from the high levels that have traditionally been used in products—four percent and higher. It was also being used with greater frequency without the guidance of esthetic professionals, and oftentimes used in excess. It is important for HQ to be used with ingredients that heal, support and protect the skin. A general guideline for topical use is to use lower percentages as mentioned, and minimize the duration of treatment. Two months is the maximum time I would recommend that a client use HQ. Though HQ certainly has its place in professional esthetics, botanical brighteners provide an amazing alternative for sensitive skins or clients that may be leery of skin lightening programs. Next-generation lighteners serve as effective alternatives, because they work with a wide range of skin types, including the more sensitive skins. In addition to their brightening properties, they also promote cell turnover and provide antioxidant, moisture and healing support. Some natural alternatives include: • Bellis perennis flower extract, a gentle, natural brightener derived from daisy • L-arbutin, a natural plant-based derivative of hydroquinone, which is regarded as more stable and less sensitizing than HQ • Kojic acid, an effective inhibitor of melanin synthesis derived from Japanese mushrooms Page 30 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RAW Skin Care for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of experience in the esthetics industry. Visit www.RhondaAllison. com and www.RAWmethod.com for more information. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Sever180 /Shutterstock.com

L-ARBUTIN, ANOTHER EFFECTIVE NATURAL SKIN LIGHTENER, IS A PURE, WATER-SOLUBLE, BIOSYNTHETIC ACTIVE. IT IS COMMONLY EXTRACTED FROM THE LEAVES OF BEARBERRY BUSH.

Bellis perennis, or daisy flower, is a specific species of European daisy native to western, central and northern Europe. It is derived from the blossoms of wild daisy flowers and considered a gentle, yet highly efficient natural skin lightener. Use of the bellis perennis can be traced back to ancient Rome, where it was used by surgeons for its astringent properties. Daisy flower works by influencing different pathways involved in melanin formation, counteracting age spots and balancing hyperpigmentation. Before melanogenesis starts, the active ingredients in the brightener block the binding and transfer of melanocytes. Daisy flower also decreases tyrosinase synthesis and activity during melanin formation, reducing melanin production in the melanosomes. This powerful ingredient also has ROS scavenging abilities and can reverse existing pigmentation issues. L-arbutin, another effective natural skin lightener, is a pure, water-soluble, biosynthetic active. It is commonly extracted from the leaves of bearberry bush, but can also be extracted from cranberry, blueberry and most types of pears. It was developed as an alternative tyrosinase inhibitor to block melanin formation without causing any of the potential side effects that have been linked to the prolonged or excessive use of HQ. The natural lightener effectively reduces the appearance of dark spots, evens skin tone and corrects hyperpigmentation. These botanical brighteners also support cell turnover and provide antioxidant, healing and moisturizing bioactives. When teamed with nourishing, supportive and protective topicals such as growth factor and a good mineral blocker with an SPF of 30, the process speeds up significantly. Skin discoloration doesn’t have to be a definitive condition. With a customized program and the right tools, you will achieve bright, glowing skin for your client. n

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by Kris Campbell

skin|

Page 34 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Other treatments that need to be altered with sensitive skins are extractions, microderm and high frequency. Extractions can still be done, but they may be more painful for clients with sensitive skin. It may be necessary to cool down these areas immediately to calm potential inflammation. Patch testing will need to be done with a microderm device, and the power should be set

can lead the client to seek medical help to calm their skin. Gentle enzymes may be a better choice. Also be aware that abrasive scrubs should be avoided. Try using a gentle creamy polish with very small beads. The cream base will keep the skin calm and hydrated. Hydrating, soothing masks will be beneficial for dry skins, and gentle acne products with low doses of salicylic, totarol and specialty

INDIVIDUALS WITH SENSITIVE SKIN ARE QUICKLY BECOMING THE MAJORITY OF THE CLIENTS WE SEE IN OUR TREATMENT ROOMS.

extremely low, followed by a cooling, soothing mask to avoid redness. High frequency can be used on bare skin, but it is recommended to use some type of gauze or cloth on sensitized skin. Do not use on skin that is red or inflamed. Beware, know all the client’s health factors before using microderm, high frequency or any other machine. There could be complications from medical treatments and medications that need to be factored in. Products in the treatment room play an important role in services for sensitive skin types and avoiding reactions. Avoid aggressive peels, especially peels in solution form, as they will tend to penetrate sensitive skin deeper, and cannot actually do the intended peeling but cause a reaction. At times, this

ingredients like glycyrrhiza inflata root extract (licorice) will be helpful in healing sensitive acne breakouts. It is wonderful to get the client’s skin in good form in the treatment room, but educating the client about their home care is necessary to continue keeping their skin in check. Simple reminders to use microfiber cloths, cleanse the skin every night, apply SPF daily and not to take steamy showers or baths are most helpful. The products for home care should include hydrating, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, antibacterial and anti-aging ingredients, but at a lower dose so as not to cause reactions. Ingredients beneficial to sensitive skin and those which help the conditions of continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Shutterstock.com

REMEMBER THE DAYS WHEN PEOple simply described their skin as oily, combination or dry? Today 50 percent of women and 40 percent of men describe their skin as sensitive. Sensitive and/or health challenged skin can arise from several internal factors, ranging from hereditary skin issues to developing skin conditions related to health challenges such as cancer, diabetes, depression and the medications/treatments involved. External factors can also be a problem. These may include UV exposure, workplace settings, environmental conditions and even frequent contact with water, alkalis or solvents, all of which can cause sensitivity. Psychosomatic factors also may play a part, causing itching symptoms and rashes to appear. Every client with sensitive skin will be different, and the treatment needs to be altered for each individual. Since many sensitive skin clients are prone to redness and inflammation, steam should be avoided. If the client insists, place the steamer further away so that more of the mist is in the room rather than focused on their face. Clients may also enjoy the use of cool beauty globes during different phases of the facial to calm the skin. Also try using lukewarm or cool towels to avoid redness. The client will appreciate microfiber towels for cleansing and product removal, as they do not tug on the skin like traditional towels.

adjusting treatments for sensitive skin

Cell Therapy

Anti-Oxidant Boost MEG 21 Anti-Oxidant Boost with Supplamine® combines the power of Supplamine with anti-oxidant extracts of

Indian gooseberry and grape seed to provide the ultimate skin-cell therapy to fight skin stress resulting

from glycation, free radicals and oxidative stress. With

the added anti-oxidant boost, this lightweight treat-

ment will not only reduce the appearance of fine lines

and wrinkles but also reduce irritation, to give your complexion a more youthful, radiant glow.

Clinical study with Supplamine Positive results after 28 days — Applied twice a day Patients’ skin displayed: an increase in elasticity and collagen, smoother and firmer skin, fewer wrinkles, more hydration. While reducing: oxidative stress, inflammation, free radicals, collagen depletion.

Visit our booth 713 at Miami ICES April 7&8 www.MEG 21.com a portion of the proceeds from each MEG 21 product supports cancer research Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #344 on reader service card

skin|adjusting treatments for sensitive skin

BENEFICIAL INGREDIENTS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Inflammation

Hydration

Anti-glycation

Rashes

UV or UVB Protection

Niacinamide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Carnosine

Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil

Zinc Oxide

Red Algae

Jojoba Oil

Blueberries

Beta-Glucan

Emblica

Ginger

Rose Hip Oil

Pomegranate

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid and 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol

Ferulic Acid

Vitamin D

Pearl Powder

Pueraria Mirifica Extract

Calamine

Milk Thistle

Horse Chestnut

Indian Sienna

Plantago Extract

Calendula

Thermus Thermophilus Ferment

Comfrey

Olive Leaf

Benfotiamine

Willow Bark

inflammation, dehydration, sun protection, glycation and rashes also need to be calming and restorative. Individuals with sensitive skin are quickly becoming the majority of the clients we see in our treatment rooms. It is very important to ask these clients several questions in order to determine

Mugwort

the best alterations in treatments and products for their unique skin. As professionals today, we need to look at what they are using at home for products, the time between the last type of professional treatment (or even at-home peel) they have had, recent exposure to sun, medications and other health chal-

lenges. Each one of these questions will have its own set of conditions that can make the client’s skin sensitive. If we remember that every client is unique and alter the products, machines, massage intensity and movement to meet their needs, we can create a positive treatment for any client, whether they are going through a long or short term period of sensitivity. n

Kris Campbell is CEO and a formulator for Tecniche, a skin care line dedicated to sensitive skin. She is a certified oncology esthetician, and works with Morag Currin to address the skin concerns of clients who are undergoing cancer treatments. Campbell trains professionals, writes for trade publications and speaks at industry events about conditions faced by people with health challenged skin.

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Page 36 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #101

TAKING NATURAL INGREDIENTS

THERE IS AN UNFORTUNATE DIVIDE BEtween science and marketing in the skin care industry. Words that mean one thing to the scientific community may be co-opted by marketing teams to support a product or company; often unwittingly creating a new and contradictory definition—and at the very least causing consumer confusion. In a time when consumers, scientists and business people are all striving to live and work more sustainably, sometimes all it takes is a word to cause a challenge. Almost nowhere in the skin care industry is this more apparent than with the words “natural” and “synthetic.” We will demystify these words, break them down to their factual bases and identify the truth when it comes to the sourcing, extraction and formulation of ingredients and skin care products.

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What’s in a name? The scientific definition of the word natural is simply the identification of a substance or molecule that exists in nature. Water is natural. Plants are natural ... but so is petroleum. “Natural products,” to the scientist, are molecules that are a part of living nature, typically plants. These natural products can be isolated from their plant sources or synthesized. The complexity of definitions and how they differ between science, business and regulatory bodies invariably leads to consumer and industry confusion. When attempting to define the word natural, even organizations that try to clarify the concept for consumers create confusion. One website makes this statement: “Natural ingredients are: not produced synthetically; free of all petrochemicals; not exLes Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Shutterstock.com

BY IVANA VELJKOVIC, PH.D.

INTO THE LAB

skin

tracted or processed using petrochemicals; not extracted or processed using anything other than natural ingredients as solvents.” There are multiple contradictions just in those several excerpted sentences. How can one state that in order to be natural it must be free of another natural substance? Using petrochemicals in the skin care industry may not be popular, appealing or ideal, but that does not make them unnatural.

Understanding the impact of the source Many ingredients can be considered “naturally sourced,” meaning they are extracted directly from a plant or animal, but even this can be confusing. The positive associations that most consumers have around “naturally sourced” ingredients do not take into account the fact that some natural sources are not so pleasant. A highly effective and popular topical ingredient is hyaluronic acid. Unfortunately, the “natural source” of this wonder ingredient is the combs of roosters. A hyaluronic acid molecule that is synthesized in a lab and is identical to the naturally-sourced version becomes a much more appealing option when one takes that fact into consideration. Another issue with sourcing “natural” ingredients from their true source in nature is that it often requires harvesting tremendous numbers of acres of plant material in order to glean just a miniscule amount of a raw material from that crop. Not only is this a highly unsustainable option environmentally, it is also not cost effective or wise from a business standpoint. Engineering this same molecule in a lab without the harvest and waste of the remainder of its original biologic source provides a much more sustainable option.

photo: Vasina Natalia/Shutterstock.com

Words with a bad reputation To address this conundrum of semantics fully, we must also discuss the word synthetic. Unfortunately, this word has taken on a negative connotation. The assumption that all things synthetic are in some way harmful, dangerous or unfavorable is simply not based in fact. If an l-ascorbic acid molecule is created in a lab, the final ingredient will not behave any differently topically from an l-ascorbic acid molecule sourced from an orange. The molecule does not know its heritage. So, the first layer of the discussion of this word is the fact that molecules that exist in nature, or “natural” molecules, can be created in a lab and March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

A HYALURONIC ACID MOLECULE THAT IS SYNTHESIZED IN A LAB AND IS IDENTICAL TO THE NATURALLY-SOURCED VERSION BECOMES A MUCH MORE APPEALING OPTION.

possess no differences in structure or function from their “naturally-sourced” relatives. Another important point to be made is that many of the molecules, ingredients and drugs we have come to rely upon simply would not exist without being created in a lab.

Powerful peptides Peptides have earned a position of importance in the skin health industry for their significant and proven role in building collagen and minimizing muscle contractions that lead to wrinkling, in addition to many other benefits. They have become ubiquitous in the industry, appearing in a wide variety of cosmeceutical products. The fact of the matter is that these molecules do not exist unless they are created in a lab. They are chains of amino acids that are designed to perform a specific beneficial function based on their structure and length. How can this “synthetic” ingredient be popular, safe and effective while somehow also being perceived as bad because it is created by a chemist through a scientific process and not grown in nature?

Plant cell culture technology Ingredients derived from plants are common and of major importance in the pharmaceutical, food and cosmetic industries. Plant stem cells are dedifferentiated cells, referred to as “stem cells” analogously, though real stem cells do not actually exist in plants. Nevertheless, what we call “plant stem cells” have been identified as one of the exciting new frontiers in cosmeceuticals, with their unprecedented ability to protect epidermal stem cells in human skin. Unlike some stem cell ingredients that are sourced from the discarded foreskin of human babies, plant stem cells pose no ethical challenges. Unfortunately, the development of new plant-derived ingredients is limited due to the following: • Many plant sources can contain toxic metabolites, trace pesticides and other environmental pollutants. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 39

Optimizing natural molecules in the lab A biologically active molecule that is found in nature can be optimized in order to improve its activity. In other words, optimization increases efficacy, reduces toxicity (side effects) and allows a substance to achieve a good half-life. The following are common techniques for optimizing, and how they work: • Variation of the atoms or functional groups of a molecule changes their electronic properties. • Introduction of double bonds changes the stereochemistry and decreases the flexibility of the carbon chains. • Variations in the ring structure change molecular geometry. Ring opening or closure usually leads to subtle changes in activity and makes molecules less flexible. • Adding bulk to a molecule can often prevent an enzymatic attack on the drug, thereby prolonging its useful life. • Slow growth cycles can make seasonal harvesting impossible. • The inconsistent constitution of an ingredient due to variations in extraction methods, growth and harvest. • A plant being endangered, therefore restricting or prohibiting harvest. • The lack of sustainability and environmental sensitivity based on the consumption of soil and water, the release of methane and usage of agricultural chemicals. Through the use of plant cell culture technology, we are able to create novel cosmetic plant-derived actives. Cultured plant cells possess improved purity and an elevated level of overall quality. They are also highly sustainable and environmentally sensitive. The plant tissue culture technique is based on the propagation of plant stem cells, either to produce a whole new plant, a plant tissue or simply to collect single cells in culture to harvest plant metabolites. As a kind of wound reaction, new cells are formed on the cut surfaces of the plant tissue. These cells slowly divide to form a mass of cells that is called a callus. The cells in this callus have been dedifferentiated into cells that lack the distinctive features of normal plant cells. This process is sustainable, eco-friendly and creates highly beneficial ingredients—and it is all done in a lab.

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As the Internet offers a plethora of information to consumers at large and competition between actors in the industry intensifies, the desire and opportunity for disseminating misinformation has multiplied exponentially. Before you base your judgment of an ingredient or formulation solely on whether it is labeled natural or synthetic (either by a consumer agency, competing company or trade publications), make sure you identify the true scientific process by which it is produced. Many ingredients that are scientifically labeled as “synthetic” are some of the most consistent, safe, sustainable, beneficial and exciting properties used in skin health products today. n

Ivana Veljkovic, Ph.D., works in product development and clinical trials for PCA Skin. She has previously worked as a research scientist specializing in the synthesis and purification of organic compounds. She has worked directly with physicians, nurses and estheticians, educating them on skin physiology, ingredients and proper treatments for specific skin conditions. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

BEFORE YOU BASE YOUR JUDGMENT OF AN INGREDIENT OR FORMULATION SOLELY ON WHETHER IT IS LABELED NATURAL OR SYNTHETIC, MAKE SURE YOU IDENTIFY THE TRUE SCIENTIFIC PROCESS BY WHICH IT IS PRODUCED.

For results you can see Nothing emphasizes an esthetician’s professional expertise more than the quiet snap of an ampoule neck and the subsequent application and working-in of the precious liquid.

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USA – NORTHEAST CANADA call: 1-877-DRG-4SPA (374-4772) call: 1-800-561-3766 infovivari@gmail.com buymagna@aol.com www.vivari.us www.magnaesthetics.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #109

self-care

DEVELOPING

photo: Ersler Dmitry / Shutterstock.com

DRAWING FROM THE EARTH

Page 42 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

skin

WHILE STUDYING IN INDIA, I WAS AWEstruck by the level of attention Indian women pay to their personal care. Not every woman in India has constant access to a bath or shower, which makes daily hygiene practices rather difficult. Even under some of the worst living conditions imaginable, these beautiful women would still make self-care a priority. In very remote areas of India, women are detached from modern lifestyles, and the effects that those contemporary influences would have on how they look and treat their skin. Since access to commercial personal care products is limited, women learn to draw from the riches of the Earth in order to bathe and enhance their natural beauty. During my studies at the Nature Cure Ashram in Uruli Kanchan, I personally experienced many of these natural remedies. Every morning before heading to yoga class, I would watch with great curiosity as a group of Indian women mined mud from large vats that had been carved into the Earth. Later in the day, that freshly harvested soil was smeared over my belly as part of my medical therapy. After a week of participating in a natural cure lifestyle, I truly felt reconnected with myself. Pain free, energized and vibrant, I realized how badly I had been assaulting my body. Taking the time to disconnect from daily stresses through a self-care ritual is essential for our survival. One of the biggest lessons I learned while at this retreat was that in order to be well, I should never wait to go on a vacation or a retreat. Develop a self-care ritual that communicates the message to your body that you truly value it.

photo: Africa Studio / Shutterstock.com

Self harm Many of us treat our bodies in ways that reveal a clear disconnect from our physical being. We stuff ourselves into clothes that are too tight and styles that we don’t even like. We criticize our thighs, arms, breasts and skin. We eat diet foods loaded with chemicals in an effort to change our natural body types, or over-exercise to the point of pain and exhaustion. In essence, we treat our bodies with hate, and then we get angry when they don’t perform as expected. The same goes for skin! We have become obsessed with having perfect complexions. Women are fixated on clogged pores that are barely noticeable, wrinkles that are actually fine lines

March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

from parched skin and dead skin cells. Without the latter, however, the skin would be left sensitive. We have become a culture of quick fixes and instant results, taking little time to nourish and nurture ourselves. What message does that communicate to our bodies?

BY ANNE C. WILLIS

The mind-body connection For centuries, scientists have discovered a conduit between our mental and physical being. We hold onto emotional issues on an energetic level, and they become stuck in the space between the cells on a cellular level that causes inactivity. This space between the tissues becomes blocked and prevents the proper detoxification and absorption of nutrients. When the mind/ body sensory system that delivers incoming data is blocked, distorted and shut down, our lives become constricted, and we continually follow the old patterns of behavior and beliefs that no longer serve us. This is also reflected in cellular activity and function, leading to all kinds of skin issues. In order to heal, we need to move beyond feelings of unworthiness, judgement and nonacceptance. We need to refrain from investing our energies into things that continually bring us more pain. If elements of our life diminish our power, then we are communicating a hurt that goes beyond how we feel mentally by continuing to run those old tapes. The higher frequency of thought then changes the frequency around our cells, and begins to reverse or move the stuck energy away from our cells, allowing for wellness and healing. Our physical body has a frequency for health, and when we hold onto lower emotions (which equate to lower frequencies in the body), we are prone to developing diseases related to these lower frequencies. For instance, if we hold onto grief, we are prone to lung disease. If we hold onto anger, we are susceptible to liver problems. Lower back problems indicate that we are worried about our security. Kidney problems are associated with elements of fear. *Note: Lower frequency emotions include fear, anger, revenge, hatred, violence, shame, guilt, blame, sadness and depression. The ego filters everything through fear. continues

THE AROMA OF THE HERBS SOOTHES ANXIETY AS I PREPARE FOR MY HECTIC DAY.

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 43

skin|developing self-care Higher frequency emotions are love, compassion, acceptance, joy, happiness, appreciation and gratitude. The soul filters everything through love.

Self care

Skin Care on Your Terms

no contract no minimum buy in

Self care reverses this cycle of disconnection and body hatred. It’s important to choose our self-care rituals based on what feels good to our bodies, which is not necessarily what we think our bodies should want. Creating a healing ritual allows us to enter a sacred space of our mind and heart to honor the core of human experience, thus connecting to the power of an invisible force, something greater than ourselves. Instead of just cleansing and moisturizing the skin, we should encourage clients to participate in a self-care regimen that not only heals the skin, but also shifts the negative frequency that prohibits them from feeling well, and prevents skin from functioning properly. So what is a good self-care regimen? My personal skin care program begins with treating my skin and mind with a topical hydrotherapy treatment. I place my herbal tea mixture along with mineral salts into my beautiful French press and fill it with heated water. It only takes about five to ten minutes to steep, and makes enough for my twice a day cleansing/ treatment regimen. The aroma of the herbs soothes anxiety as I prepare for my hectic day. I pour half of the infusion in a glass bowl etched with the words Love-Peace-Joy, positive affirmations that communicate a high frequency of compassion. I moisten a soft cloth with the infusion and gently press it into my skin. I can feel my skin pulse with activity as it absorbs the healing benefits of the herbs. My self-care ritual leaves me feeling refreshed and ready to tackle the challenges of the day. Whatever self-care regimen you design for yourself or your clients, make sure it communicates wellness. Use products that are pure and non-chemical. Create a ritual that not only heals the skin, but also the mind and body. As my sisters in India taught me, many of the resources we need are found in the simplest of products. Drawing from the rich pool of Earth’s resources not only enhances our skin’s beauty and health, it also brings us closer to nature and wellness. n

Anne C. Willis, a licensed esthetician and worldwide leader in holistic and medical skin therapies, is the founder of De la Terre Skincare. She is an accredited skin care instructor and the director of Oncology Skin Therapeutics™, bringing more than 30 years of experience and knowledge to the new generation of skin therapists. Willis is a contributor to The Esthetician’s Guide to Working With Physicians, and has been featured in numerous publications. For more information, contact her at info@ delaterreskincare.com or visit www.delaterreskincare.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

Page 44 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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1.888.841.2535 | HAIRMAXSALONS.COM *The HairMax LaserComb is indicated to treat Androgenetic Alopecia and promote hair growth in males who have Norwood Hamilton Classifications of lla to V and in females who have Ludwig (Savin) 1-4, 11-1, 11-2, or frontal patterns of hair loss and who both have Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to IV. Laser Light - Avoid direct eye eyxposure.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #285 on reader service card

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Page 46 • www.LNEONLINE.com

The Nourishing Recovery Blueberry Mask by HydroPeptide® is a mask of clay, stem cells and peptides laced with a blueberry and vanilla antioxidant blend that leaves skin looking even-toned and youthful. Bentonite clay extracts impurities, acetyl hexapeptide-37 improves collagen I synthesis and the plant stem cell resistem helps reduce micro-inflammation. Blueberry and vanilla extracts offer light hydration and make this mask an aromatic indulgence. Follow with the Gentle Rejuvenating Blueberry Peel. www.hydropeptide.com 800.932.9873

NEW AND IMPROVED! Bio-Therapeutic is launching a new and improved wet/dry microdermabrasion device, the Bio-Brasion™ wet/dry microdermabrasion. This device is now available in the United States. It utilizes diamond abrasion and topically applied strategic products to the surface of the skin to give a gentle and effective microdermabrasion that helps reduce hyperpigmentation, blemishes and the signs of aging. www.bio-therapeutic.com 800.976.2544

PRODUCT UPDATE PCA Skin® professionals will soon see a new version of Facial Wash Oily/Problem, which now contains an innovative blend of 5% gluconolactone with lactic acid to remove excess oil from oily and breakout-prone skin. www.pcaskin.com 877.PCA.SKIN

TOTAL PACKAGE The KAPLAN MD Hydrating Essence Set contains an exclusive blend of the purest essential oils to deeply hydrate and heal skin that is dry or damaged by the wind or sun, delivering an ultra-silky smooth finish and healthy glow. The set includes a full size Hydrating Essence, Travel Size Hydrating Essence in Lavender and Ylang Ylang, and Travel Size Hydrating Essence in Green Tea & Mandarin. www.kaplanmd.com 800.754.6435 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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Contact controlcorrective.com | 866.290.4290 | info@controlcorrective.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #272 on reader service card

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #162 on reader service card

spa “earthing” by Susie Ellis

ONE OF THE TOP SPA TRENDS we recently forecasted for 2013 (in SpaFinder Wellness’ 10th annual Trends Report) is “earthing.” This funny word refers to the movement of promoting direct contact with the Earth’s surface as a foundation for health, by stabilizing our natural electrical rhythms and reducing disease-causing inflammation. While we expect to see more formal earthing at spas, we also expect to see far more “nature grounding” in a wider sense. There are more creative, soul-stirring ways to re-immerse spa clients in nature, from magical treetop massages to “tented” spas in the raw wilderness. We have had a lot of piped-in nature sounds at spas, and now we will see more real nature … Fueling the trend: The world is suffering from “nature deficit disorder,” a range of ailments that are afflicting people as a result of being cut off from the natural world. Medical evidence shows us that nature keeps our brains and bodies in better working order. The trend takes so many “out of the spa box” forms.

photo courtesy of El Conquistador Resort (Puerto Rico)

Al fresco experiences More spa experiences are being brought outside, with more poolside, in-the-forest and on-the-beach treatments. And “stay” spas will increasingly feature nature outings like hiking, rafting and horseback riding, not to mention some simple stargazing. More spa resorts are taking an inside-out design approach, where the walls between the spa and the outdoors dissolve. Enchanting, rustic-chic new “treehouse” spas are a hot sub-trend, from Maine’s Tree Spa at Hidden Pond Resort to St. Vincent’s Petit Vincent. March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Puerto Rico’s new Ritz-Carlton Dorado Beach (one of the brand’s 20 “reserve” properties being created in unspoiled, natural locales) hits numerous spa-nature design notes. Its Spa Botanica (set in a vast botanical sanctuary) features glasswalled treatment rooms, out-in-the-wild showers and tubs, and a treehouse where treatments take place on a platform that juts out into the forest.

Urban nature Even the more urban day and hotel spas, with their own logistical nature-deficit are getting people outside. Manhattan’s new Red Door day spa features an expansive spa roof deck, while Singapore’s Parkroyal at Pickering’s high rise hotel spa-in-an-urban-garden concept is nestled in 15,000 square meters of vegetation.

Barefoot spas Expect more Earth-friendly “barefoot” spas like the new El Secreto in Belize. Expect more “pro-earthing” experiences like the spa at El Conquistador Resort in Puerto Rico, which offers new barefoot, candlelit labyrinth meditation walks.

Wilderness spas Look for more “pop-up” or tented spas like Wales’ new The Moat, with its sauna tents and tree “cocoons” erected on the woodland moat of a 13th century castle. More spa resorts will feature wilderness safaris, like Costa Rica’s El Silencio Lodge and Spa, where guests have their own “eco-concierge.” More spa resorts will spring up in government-protected nature preserves. Four Seasons is a leader in this area,

A spa guest at the El Conquistador Resort (Puerto Rico) connects with the Earth

with their new Safari Lodge Serengeti (in a Tanzanian national park) and their Resort Langkawi’s Geo Spa in Malaysia, which features tree-hut yoga and jungle treks led by naturalists on staff.

Extreme spa-nature Our extreme nature deficit disorder is sparking some extreme spa-nature concepts. The “locavore” movement has been around at spas, but a hot new trend is brewing. These ingredient scavenger hunts make the “old” farm-to-massagetable trend feel tame. At Utah’s Sorrel River Ranch Resort & Spa, 160 acres of wilderness are foraged for spa ingredients, while at Mexico’s Verana, treatment ingredients like bananas and herbs are picked in the wild. Extreme spa-nature is hitting design. Consider Switzerland’s Gstaad Palace’s new “Igloo Experience,” in which guests stay in an Alpine suite made of snow. Or Amsterdam’s upcoming “Floating Gardens” (coming next year), an eco-spa that floats on a lake and is coated in vegetation to allow the spa to “breathe oxygen.” All the new spa-nature immersions represent one of the most exciting trends on our forecast … and I think it’s a real breath of fresh air for spa guests. n Susie Ellis is president of SpaFinder® Wellness, Inc. and director of the annual Spa and Wellness Trend Forecast. She is also chairman and CEO of the Global Spa & Wellness Summit. Ellis holds an MBA from the University of Southern California and received the International Spa Association’s 2012 Visionary Award. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 49

holistic and organic Balance and energize your spa for spring with the most cutting-edge holistic and organic innovations available! The premium all natural products featured on the following pages nurture beauty and health, both inside and out.

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14 March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 59

Liquid

cleanse the benefits of juicing and detoxification

Page 60 • www.LNEONLINE.com

BY GOLDIE BONNELL and psoriasis can develop. This toxic overload becomes integrated into our brain, fat, bone and other tissues, causing serious and sometimes fatal health conditions. Why should we detoxify our bodies? With toxins permeating our foods and environment, our bodies simply cannot cope anymore! Our nervous systems can no longer properly control impulses, and this leads to confusion, lack of clarity, frustration, irritability and instability. When these vital warning signs indicate the need for us to detoxify, juicing is the first step to incorporate into a healthy lifestyle to create optimum health. Let’s first take a look at the benefits of juicing, and how this can be a good way to increase fruit and vegetable intake. Juicing extracts the liquid nutrition from fruits and vegetables, and is easy to incorporate into daily schedules. We can maintain the pulp when we blend our own juices. This is rich in fiber, one of the key components of a detoxification program. Ideally, one should use organic fruits and vegetables, meaning they are grown without the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and synthetic fertilizers. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com

AS PROFESSIONALS IN THE BEAUTY AND WELLNESS industries, it is essential that we educate our clients about the “toxins” that are in their system, and why they are there to begin with. In the last 70 years, the American diet has changed drastically on a multitude of levels. Food has undergone a broad transformation—from the way it is packaged to the way it is prepared. Many people’s diets are filled with artificial colors, growth hormones, pesticides, preservatives, starches, fats, antibiotics, artificial flavors and many chemicals we cannot even pronounce—let alone understand what they are and what they do. Our fast paced lifestyles are no longer about healthy eating, but rather what is fast and convenient. We seldom prepare our own meals, and we rely on takeout and pre-made foods that simply need to be reheated. Our environment further stresses our already toxin filled bodies; commuting daily in traffic, sitting for hours in front of computer screens and our high intake of caffeine or energy boosters we rely on to keep us going. For all the technology and modern methods we have to attempt to minimize stress, we have forgotten the importance of eating healthy foods. To put it simply, our bodies have become toxic waste dumps. Our systems are filled with toxins from diet, pollutants, medications, alcohol, nicotine, man made caffeine, household toxins, lifestyle toxins and poor air quality. Cellular and waste products that are not being properly eliminated further compound the effects of these factors. What are the signs of being overloaded with toxins? We experience ongoing headaches, dark circles around the eyes, coated tongue, recurrent respiratory problems, allergies, insomnia, stuffy nose, pain in the back, neck and joints and an overall sense of not feeling well. In addition, conditions such as arthritis, constipation, body odor, sinus congestion, ulcers

photo: Brulove/Shutterstock.com

spa

The main difference between homemade juice and store bought juice is that the store bought juice is heat treated (to kill bacteria and enable it to store without refrigeration), which alters the taste and lowers the nutritional value. At almost 50 years of age, Donna Marie Harmon, esthetic instructor at Ogeechee Technical College in Savannah, GA, is glad that she has maintained and done the best she could do by her body, mind and spirit to be her healthiest self. “I try to stay aware of what goes on my body as well as what goes in,” she explains. “Our environment today makes it a necessity to detox to stay at our best. Detoxification and juicing are major keys in this process.” Juicing with fruits and vegetables is inherently healthy, as it allows the body to easily assimilate vital nutrients. It also helps to cleanse the body of toxins and help with regeneration and repair. Home squeezed juice has a rich source of enzymes and antioxidants, which assists the body in the removal of free radicals (reactive oxygen species) and enables metabolic processes at the cellular level. Once one feels the benefits of juicing, it is easily embraced as part of the daily routine. The most important tip to know about juicing is this: juice vegetables and blend fruits (to make a smoothie). While there are a few crossover exceptions, this is a good rule of thumb, according to Carla Golden, owner of Golden Touch Massage Therapy in Hilton Head, SC. She explains that the fiber in fruit is necessary so that the natural fructose sugar can be absorbed slowly in the body. If the fructose rushes into the system too fast, it can be stored as fat. You do not want to separate the fruit sugar from the fruit fiber (which is what happens during juicing), so blend fruits. Tender leafy greens like spinach can easily be thrown into a fruit smoothie to make it more nutritious. Be sure to use ripe fruit—especially bananas, which are ripe only when the skins have developed brown freckles. Veggies can be blended, but it is a rare person who can gulp down a bunch of fibrous greens like kale, chard or broccoli. These veggies are better juiced, as juicing extracts their highly beneficial vitamin and mineral content. One popular juice recipe consists of kale, cucumber, celery, lemon and green apple. Green apples are a low glycemic fruit, so it is fine to add one to green vegetable juice to give it some sweetness. Juices and smoothies are magical because they contain easy nutrition, with no chewing or vigorous digestion required, they are predominantly alkaline in nature and are chock full of active food enzymes. Juices and smoothies are living foods that support the body’s natural healing tendencies. Store bought juices and smoothies have been pasteurized with heat, so their food enzyme content pales in comparison to fresh, handmade juices and smoothies. Watch the added refined sugar content in the concoctions sold at popular smoothie shops! Understand that often the fruit is March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

preserved in syrup, and specifically ask for no added sugar. While all kinds of ingredients can be added to smoothies (e.g., dairy, protein powders, nuts and seeds), realize that a fruit smoothie made only from fruit is perfectly adequate. Besides using organic fruits and vegetables, it is an absolute must to include one of the following: lemons, grapefruits, ginger, apple cider and bitter greens. The more adventurous can even include hot peppers! All these ingredients will kick start the natural detoxification process.

TRY A SIMPLE JUICING BLEND WITH THE FOLLOWING INGREDIENTS: 3 grapefruits 3 lemons 2 granny smith apples 2 cups of blueberries 1 piece of fresh ginger 3 carrots 4 cups of purified water

Our bodies need resting, cleansing and nourishing from the inside out. Detoxification is quite simply the process of cleansing our blood and increasing bowel movements. When we are toxic, our liver is the main organ that is compromised; therefore the entire elimination system is not functioning at its maximum potential. It is crucial that we do not compromise our liver, so as to allow detoxification to remove impurities from the blood, where toxins are processed for elimination. Think of the liver as the body’s washing machine; an overloaded washing machine will not function properly, and our clothes will not get clean. The liver performs more than 400 functions, taking in and funneling out the toxins produced by other organs. Other organs that work in synergy with our liver are the kidneys, small and large intestines, lungs, lymph and of course our largest organ of elimination—our skin. Our organs of elimination have to work in harmony, otherwise the end results will negatively impact the body. Jessica Adams, an esthetician and massage therapist from Salon Spa Lavish in Tampa, FL, reminds her clients that detoxification is about eliminating toxins and then giving your body the right nutrients to obtain good health from the inside out. “As spa technicians, it is our goal to assist in achieving an all over wellness,” Adams explains. “As we all know, fresh fruits and vegetables are packed with vitamins and minerals that not only help get rid of toxins and impurities, but also help you feel good and achieve healthy-looking skin. Providing healthy drinks after a spa treatment just seems fitting for the goal in mind!” Offer your clients the following advice for consuming more detoxifying foods: continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 61

spa|liquid cleanse 1. Boost fiber intake with foods such as brown rice, red beets, red cabbage, broccoli, prunes, figs and oatmeal, and try spirulina and chorella supplements. 2. For cleansing and protecting the liver, it is ideal to drink plenty of water each day, and perform a liver cleanse once a year. Herbs such as dandelion, burdock, milk thistle and natural green tea help to detoxify the liver. 3. Daily vitamin C intake aids in the production of glutathione, a compound that the liver requires for flushing out toxins. 4. Breathe deeply, as this allows oxygen to circulate and stimulates lymph flow. 5. Try to transform stress by focusing on positive thoughts and emotions. 6. Indulge in hydrotherapy at home. Take a hot shower for five minutes, including the scalp. Follow this with a blast of cold water for 30 seconds. Repeat this process three times—this stimulates lymph flow. 7. Sweat in a wet sauna; this will benefit elimination through perspiration and increase circulation. 8. Dry brush the skin to increase lymph flow. 9. Exercise. Adopt a daily walking routine, yoga, jump roping, swimming, stretching or martial arts. Martial arts— particularly Qigong, is a cleansing/detoxification based form of exercise. 10. Incorporate juicing into dietary routine. 11. Adopt a meditation ritual. 12. Keep essential oils at home for inhalation therapy/ diffusion, ingredients in body scrubs, bath and shower oil. There are a variety of treatments and services that we can offer our clients to aid in detoxification and promote better health. We can customize these treatments to meet our clients’ needs, and start them on the road to better health and longevity. Colon hydrotherapy (also known as a colon cleanse, colonic or colonic irrigation) promotes a natural route for well being and boosting the self cleansing process. It is intended to remove stagnant feces and non-specific toxins from the intestinal tract and colon. Enemas are designed to stimulate peristalsis and aid in the evacuation of stool from the rectum. Enemas utilize solutions of water or saline, sudsy solutions, oil solutions or various medications to aid with elimination. In the medical field, the following types of enemas are administered: Medication delivered directly into the renal mucous membranes are absorbed into the bloodstream. Antibiotics address localized bacterial infection. Steroids alleviate bowel inflammation. Medicated hyper tonic (higher osmosis pressure) pulls excessive amounts of ammonia or potassium from the bloodstream. Full body massage improves circulation and lymph flow, relieves tension and stress, aids in healing, cell growth and an overall healthier immune system. Page 62 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Face and full body manual lymph drainage (MLD) is a gentle manual technique used to mimic the lymph system’s natural movement. Utilizing MLD stimulates the parasympathetic nervous system, where healing and resting take place. In addition, MLD removes waste materials, toxins and infectious microorganisms from our systems. The lymph system is our primary and natural defense system against bacteria, viruses, fungal and foreign invaders. Ayurvedic treatments feature an ancient Indian massage technique (generally performed using medicated sesame oil) that eliminates toxins from the mind and body. Ayurveda is deeply relaxing, detoxifying, revitalizing and ultimately healing to the entire body. Medicated enemas in Ayurveda are oil enemas, a central part of Ayurvedic treatments. There are more than 100 specific recipes for them listed in old texts. Customized oils are gently inserted into the rectum, where they are absorbed. The oils should be left in for several hours, but for the ultimate benefit they should remain in the rectum overnight. In time, the oils find their way through the colon, and absorb all the toxins along the way. Oil enemas are an effective and gentle way to cleanse and detoxify the colon, creating optimum colon health. The following recipe for medicated herbal oils is an easy preparation of an enema:

PERFECT FOR ANYONE: 4 oz warm sesame oil 4 oz organic raw honey 4 oz warm purified water mix ingredients together well and retain for a minimum of 15 minutes FOR EXTREME CONSTIPATION: 16 oz warm purified water 1 oz anise seeds simmer for about 20 minutes, cool, strain and add: 2 oz organic raw honey 4 oz warm sesame oil 1 tsp salt mix them together well and retain for at least 30 minutes

Reflexology is the ancient healing art of foot massage, which originated in China. Reflexology increases blood flow to the feet, brain, kidneys and intestines; therefore increasing urination and bowel movements. It stimulates the digestive system directly, thereby eliminating toxins from the body. Hydrotherapy treatments Water has been used medicinally for thousands of years, rooting back to ancient China, Japan, India, Greece and Rome. Hydrotherapy makes use continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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AROMATHERAPY TREATMENTS AND WRAPS ARE VERY SUCCESSFUL AT ASSISTING WITH THE DETOXIFICATION PROCESS. IN ADDITION, YOU CAN RETAIL SPECIFIC ESSENTIAL OILS THAT WILL CONTINUE THE DETOXIFICATION AND ELIMINATION ROUTINE AT HOME.

Page 64 • www.LNEONLINE.com

this by increasing the body temperature, hence sweating increases and impurities are released. Parafango treatments are a mixture of mud and paraffin, which help with exfoliation and detoxification. Parafango treatments are rich in minerals, causing dilation and perspiration, therefore drawing out toxins—especially around the fat cells. Parafango stimulates lymph flow and circulation and reduces water retention. Herbal linen wraps are the classic spa treatment for detoxification! Steaming herbal linens that have soaked in detoxifying herbs are wrapped around the body for about 20 minutes. This is one of the best detoxification treatments. Aromatherapy is an amazing noninvasive and natural way to assist the body in eliminating food, household and environmental toxins without being invasive. Aromatherapy treatments and wraps are very successful at assisting with the detoxification process. In addition, you can retail specific essential oils that will continue the detoxification and elimination routine at home. There is a vast array of essential oils that are useful for detoxification: tangerine, lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange, juniper berry, cypress, sage, black pepper, fennel, frankincense, palmarosa, patchouli, peppermint, rose, rosemary and ylang ylang. We need to customize the best effective combination in order to achieve a toxin-free lifestyle. All these treatments have the healing emphasis on the mind, body and spirit to guide one to optimum health. Education is essential to maintaining a toxin-free lifestyle. Juicing is the first action you should advise your clients to incorporate into their lifestyle on the road to optimal health. We can design and develop a treatment program that will eliminate stagnant, harmful toxins and begin the process of feeling better overall. Therapists and clients must work together to achieve this goal. n

Goldie Bonnell has more than 20 years of experience in the skin care and wellness industries. She has designed programs and client treatments for many spas. Bonnell has been involved in the building of training centers for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. Teaching is Bonnell’s passion, and she has been a featured speaker on numerous topics at industry trade shows throughout the U.S. and Germany. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Katia Vasileva/Shutterstock.com

of the body’s natural response and hot and cold stimuli. Exposing the body to heat soothes, quiets and slows down the internal activity in the body. On the other hand, exposing the body to cold stimulates and invigorates internal activity. There are several techniques that fall under the heading of hydrotherapy. These include mineral baths, salt baths, showers, sitz baths, fomentation, foot baths, steam inhalation, steam baths, wet/dry sauna, hot compresses, cold compresses, alternating hot and cold compresses, body wrap treatments and salt glow services. External hydrotherapy involves the immersion of the body in water or the application of water, ice or heat to the body. Temperature-based hydrotherapy involves the different effects of hot or cold water on the skin and underlying tissues, such as wet towels or in La Stone Therapy. This is done with the application of wet warm or cool towels to the skin in a treatment. Sitz baths are a specially made tub that allows the lower abdomen to be submerged in water. Motion-based hydrotherapy uses water under pressure such as in a spa setting—Vichy showers, mud baths, mineral or salt baths, jets, whirlpool and hot tubs. Watsu is a form of bodywork conducted in a pool. It was developed in 1987, and is considered one of the leading aquatic therapies. Internal hydrotherapy includes colonic irrigation; enemas and steam baths are also a form of internal hydrotherapy. The numerous benefits of hydrotherapy include elimination of waste, increased metabolic and digestion activity, boosting the immune system and stimulating blood flow. There are several body treatments that will cause cellular detoxification, eliminate water retention and promote relaxation and healing from the inside out. Many types of wraps (aloe, mineral, clay, seaweed, mud wraps, paraffin, compression and herbal linen wraps) and parafango treatments are useful for this purpose. For thousand of years, people have believed in the healing powers of mud, long before the creation of the modern health spa. Generally, mud baths consist of the combination of clay, peat (sometimes volcanic ash) and hot spring water. Mud baths are designed for maximum heat penetration, making them ideal for detoxification. The body wraps mentioned above are ideal detoxification treatments because they stimulate the metabolic rate; therefore making the body feel better. They accomplish

by Julianne Bien

spa|beauty spectrum inside and out EACH SEASON CHALLENGES OUR skin, the body’s defense barrier. Not only does the sun influence our outer appearance, it also helps maintain our well-being. From moisturizers and hydrating masks to sunscreen and anti-aging serums, we take many precautions when it comes to protecting our skin from aging. But did you ever think that maybe the sun helps us take care of it as well?

writings refer to this as the “as above, so below” concept, and suggest that we are a holographic reflection of the universe, and that there is a rainbow living within all of us.

Our internal rainbow The world around us is constantly illuminated by light. That is what enables us to see color and perceive our world as

photo: Kzenon/Shutterstock.com

Illuminate your spa menu with “Spectrum Beauty” packages, and you will be offering a naturally rejuvenating modality to your clients.

Life exists by the energy carried in light, and it is sunlight that illuminates living beings from the inside out. As you slowly prepare for the change in season and update your skin care regimen, why not rejuvenate your body with a color light therapy session? Let me introduce you to this hidden treasure in our lives. In addition to being the largest organ, our skin is one of the largest receptors of light in our bodies. It absorbs the sun’s rays, which light up our bodies from the inside, acting as a protective shield and enabling our body to store light photons as a natural reserve. This allows us to function properly and have energy during every season. What may be familiar are the colors seen in a rainbow after a spring shower. Most ancient March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

lively and fascinating as it is. Not only is color made up of various shades, tones and pigments, it is the essential energy that is basic to all life. It is a true and honest sensation that playfully stimulates our senses and affects our psychological and physical state of being. So what shall we do with this internal color spectrum? Well, as long as the life force is harmonious and balanced within us, we know we are doing something right, and we generally feel good about it. Healthy lifestyles emanate from inside us, in both visible and invisible energetic ways. When people are not well, physically or emotionally, you can see the energetic imbalance that is putting stress on the body. It may be evident from a change in skin color, limp hair

or eyes that have lost their shine. You can imagine what is going on inside. Wellness professionals have a responsibility to reestablish the energy balance so the body can properly regulate and maintain itself. Color is energy, and it is carried in light. So by using a simple color ray illuminator, one can generate the body’s natural defenses and gently restore harmony within. In practice, trained spa professionals focus color light beams on specific areas of the body, such as traditional acupuncture points along the meridian system, reflex zones or chakras. Or they can simply infuse the color into the body’s aura to enhance face and body treatments.

The path of life Color light therapy, also described as chromatherapy and color harmonics, has been used for thousands of years. In ancient Egypt, healers used sunlight and spectrums to shine color on patients. In ancient Greece, Heliopolis was a center of heliotherapy, curing illness by sun exposure. Aristotle defined color as a transition from brightness to darkness. Until the 17th century, the accepted view was that natural light contained no color; it was thought that color was created by the impact of the light on objects. In 1665, Isaac Newton examined and measured the behavior of colors refracted from daylight through a prism. He stated that light itself, although it can be broken continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 65

into colors, is not visibly colored. He asserted that the colors we do see are a mere sensation produced by the light. Over a century later, the German philosopher and writer Goethe defined the three primary colors and their relationship in the color wheel. During the 19th century, several scientists discovered color light applications that can be used outside of allopathic medicine. Since then, clinical studies have been done around the world, successfully demonstrating this point. Dr. Valerie Hunt of UCLA is the first modern researcher to apply scientific methods of study to electromagnetic emissions in biological organisms. She measured human energy fields and demonstrated that the energetic emissions show chaotic changes before pathological conditions in the tissue can be diagnosed. This proves that ailments begin outside the body as energetic imbalances, and that health is a state of being energetically correct.

Color light for the spa professional There are many color light applications developed for wellness, beauty and spirituality. Some raise and calm energies in the body, while others help to balance and clear stagnant energy, which may be experienced as nondescript aches and pains or weight gain. Color light can bring old memories to the surface, which actually allows one to let go and clear the trauma in their lives. It’s like shedding years off of your appearance, one energetic layer at a time. Another reason this anti-aging modality is quickly obtaining a strong following is because clients do not have to disrobe, and because it is convenient for the professional on the go. Color harmonics are also supportive when one is feeling depleted from a hectic lifestyle, or during the gray winter months. Illuminate your spa menu with “Spectrum Beauty” packages, and you will be offering a naturally rejuvenating modality to your clients. Page 66 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Here is a small guide to help you understand more about each color, and how to incorporate the modality into your spa and wellness center. For example, a color light facial and body balance is a full spectrum treatment. Red: Essential for physical and emotional transformation, it restores depleted energy and nourishes vitality. It is perfect after a body wrap, facial or massage, as it stimulates circulation and increases one’s energy level. Orange: This warm, encouraging color has a revitalizing radiance. It can be used to relieve nervous tension, pain associated with stiffness, arthritis and depression. Green: Cooling, sedating and balancing, green helps reduce swelling and inflammation. Sky blue: This shade of blue is a cool, calming color that aids in relaxation and tones the skin, soothes irritation and relieves itching and pain. Indigo blue: Peaceful and calming, it is used for restlessness, calming stress and pain. It can bring your client into a state of relaxation after a hectic day, and is ideal for both men and women. Violet: Helps to relieve itching, irritations and inflammation in most skin conditions. Pink: A heartfelt color that can be used during emotional times, and a perfect color to end a session. By practicing color harmonics, we can refine the sensitivity we have toward our needs and desires. We reward ourselves with an expanded sense of awareness of the beautiful colors we treasure beneath our skin. We can then enable those colors to radiate outward into the universe and truly feel balanced, no matter which season we are in. *No medical claims are made or implied in this article, and the information does not replace the advice and care of a medical professional. n

Julianne Bien, founder of Spectrahue Light & Sound, developed the Lumalight Color & Geometry System and its training materials. She has written books on color and light therapies, including Golden Light: A Journey With Advanced Colorworks and Color Therapy for Animals. Bien presents her theories at conferences and nationally accredited certification courses throughout the U.S. and Canada. For more information, please visit spectrahue.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photos (left to right): Kzenon/Shutterstock.com; photo courtesy of Julianne Bien

Color attributes

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easy reach, thereby eliminating twisting, stooping and awkward lifting, which is important to minimize strain potential. Ensure that professional tools are properly maintained for ease of operation and safety. Incorporate time for short stretch and rest breaks, and schedule bookings to provide a variety of tasks to reduce repetitive strain.

Chemical care SPAS RELY ON THEIR REPUTAtion and client base to run a good, profitable business. They also depend on excellent employees to keep clients happy. So what happens when those clients or employees get hurt in your business? In 2011, the Bureau of Labor Statistics reported a total of 1,181,290 cases of nonfatal workplace injuries and illnesses. Avitus Group human resource and risk management consultant Billie Kastelitz says one of the most important and often overlooked factors in salons and spas is health and safety procedures. Hazards can come from many places that appear harmless. The Bureau of Labor and Statistics reports that 22 percent of workplace accidents are attributed to slips, trips and falls. Easy hazards to avoid include: • Slippery surfaces • Unswept hair • Wet surfaces • Product spills or overspray • Poorly lit working and walking areas, cluttered aisles or passageways • Vacuum hoses • Electrical cords • Untidy work areas • Mopping or vacuuming during busy times Good housekeeping is key to preventing slips, trips and falls. Regularly inspect floors, and clean up spilled product, overspray and water as soon as possible. Take care to manage cords and hoses around walkways, and ensure that work areas are well lit. A tidy work area is not only safe but professional as well. Page 68 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Sore spa professionals Spa therapists and professionals often experience musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs) in their back, neck, shoulders, arms, hands and wrists. MSD is a collective term for a range of conditions or injuries characterized by pain in muscles, tendons and other soft tissues. Early symptoms of MSD can include discomfort, fatigue, aches, pains, soreness and stiffness, hot and cold feelings, muscle tightness and/or weakness, numbness and/or tingling. Individuals suffering from overuse injuries often need time off from work, and workers’ compensation claims can be costly and disruptive to business. MSDs often develop over time and can be caused or aggravated by work tasks. Risk factors include: • Repetitive or sustained awkward postures (e.g. working with arms above shoulder height or bending your head forward as you work) • Repetitive or sustained movements • Repetitive or sustained application of force • Contact stress • Application of high force movements • Exposure to sustained vibration • Environmental conditions (extreme temperatures) • Work organization (poor ergonomic design and scheduling) Workbenches, chairs and wash basins at comfortable and adjustable heights are all easy tools to avoid awkward work postures and create happier, healthier employees. Arrange work areas so materials, equipment and controls are within

Chemicals are an integral part of work in salons and spas, making it easy to forget how dangerous they can be. Take care each and every time you use chemicals, both for your clients’ safety and your own. • Follow product instructions. • Wear gloves, eye protection and aprons when mixing and applying color, bleach and other solutions. • Always seal containers when not in use. Label and store properly. Hazards associated with chemical use can range from flammability to adverse health effects. If chemicals are inhaled, absorbed by the skin, splashed in the eyes or accidentally ingested, the effects of exposure can be apparent immediately (acute) with symptoms such as skin irritation.

Electrical errors Many electrical appliances are heavily used, day in and day out. To avoid injuries, regularly inspect all electrical equipment and power cords for damage and wear, replacing equipment as necessary. Do not overload electrical outlets, and avoid the use of adaptors. Instead, use approved power strips or surge protectors when necessary. A clean, organized space with happy employees gives off just the professional glow you are looking for. Creating a culture of safety in your salon is not only smart, it’s stylish! n Lance Harris joined the sales and marketing team at Avitus Group in 2004, and since then he has shared his expertise with hundreds of clients. A former business owner himself, Harris understands the challenges facing spa and salon owners in today’s competitive market. Contact him at lharris@avitusgroup.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS

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MARINE MAGIC Repêchage® introduces the new Biolight Brightening Body Corrector Cream. The natural seaweed-based formulation is made with the Laminaria Complex, which contains two select EcoCert seaweeds. Willow bark, gotu kola, licorice extracts, bellis daisy and watermelon extract are also included in the formula that targets hyperpigmentation, protects skin cells from future damage, helps reduce the appearance of age spots, discoloration and freckles, brightens uneven skin tone and fades the appearance of dark spots on the hands and body. www.repechage.com 1.800.248.SKIN

MUSCLE MELTING WONDER The new B-One Gel from Provence Cosmetics’ Bodypro50 line provides fast and soothing relief for pain in the hip, ankle and elbow joints, as well as the shoulders, neck and knees. The massage gel contains a high concentration of Devil’s Claw, which has powerful anti-inflammatory properties for fast relief of aches and pains, says the company. Suggest B-One Gel to your active clients to help them improve their range of motion and muscle flexibility for better power and performance. www.bodypro50.com 877.700.7775

BRONZE BEAUTY Give your clients a head start on summer with the Bronzing Custard from Vani-T, a unique blend of essential oils including marine collagen extract, jojoba, sunflower and coconut, as well as calendula, aloe vera and vitamins A and E. This gradual tanning custard contains EcoCert approved DHA for pure, safe color, and its olive base ensures natural, sun kissed skin without orange tones. www.vani-t.com 855.326.4526 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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business

stop running a non-profit business!

by Dale Turner

DO YOU EVER FEEL LIKE YOU ARE running a non-profit business? You pay your bills, compensate your employees, give a few bucks to charity and in the end, there is nothing left for you. Most self employed people have experienced this situation at one point or another. Your employees and vendors would not work for free, so why should you? Follow these simple guidelines to make sure you are getting paid for your hard work. Mind you, I believe in philanthropic work and being generous to charitable organizations, but a spa is a cash flow business, designed to be profitable!

2. Is it deductible? “Oh don’t worry, it’s a write-off!” This line has been the ruin of many small business owners. It has been used to justify all kinds of expenses, ranging from Caribbean cruises to a new Mercedes Benz. Just because you can write an expense through the business does not mean that you should. You still need to pay for it! Also, contact a tax professional to make sure that the purchase you are making is in fact deductible. The rules change frequently. Something that was deductible last year might not be anymore. If you think you have cash flow troubles now, try being on the wrong end of an audit.

1. Pay yourself like an employee

3. Avoid the credit monkey

Pay yourself the same commission or fee that you would an employee. If your employee earns 50 percent, then so should you! When “payday” comes, pay yourself just like you would anybody else. There will be times when your cash flow is short and the money is not there, but that’s ok. There is nothing wrong with holding your check for a day or two before cashing it —just make sure you cash it!

Misuse of credit is one of the most common reasons businesses fail. If you are taking 50 percent of your services as pay (as I mentioned above), then you need to run your business on the other 50 percent. At the end of the month, there will hopefully be money left over. If you come up short, however, you may need to make some changes. Many business owners use credit to offset their cash flow short-

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age, but do so responsibly. Only use credit for a cash flow shortage, not to make up for a cash deficiency. Don’t do what the cartoon character Wimpy does and offer to pay for a hamburger today on Tuesday, only to find that Tuesday never comes! Credit can mask the fact that your business is in trouble. Look at your expenses and determine what is really necessary to grow your business. If you cannot pay the credit back in a reasonable amount of time (two to three months), then don’t use it for cash flow. Bankers require their business credit line customers to pay their lines down annually. If this is good for large corporations, it is even more important for you to do the same. You work hard, and you should get paid for your efforts. Be organized, pay yourself, seek out good financial advice where needed and avoid misusing credit. Do these things, and you will be able to enjoy the benefits of owning your business. n

Dale Turner is a 25-year veteran of the financial services industry. He is a vice president and branch manager of a bank in New Castle, PA. Turner specializes in helping small business owners with their cash flow and investment needs. As a co-owner of Mary Turner Day Spa, he has helped build a lucrative, debt-free spa that is expanding its business. For business or financial questions, email Turner at daleturner125@msn.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Gemenacom /Shutterstock.com

If you cannot pay the credit back in a reasonable amount of time (two to three months), then don’t use it for cash flow.

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business

LA MASIA A GROWING SUCCESS

BY DAVID SUZUKI

La Masia de Can Planes La Masia began in 1979 as a school and dormitory located near Camp Nou in the Les Corts district of Barcelona. The objective of the school is to educate, mentor and champion young athletes who are thought to have future potential to represent FC Barcelona. The minimum age to be admitted to the school is six. Each year, more than 1,000 boys between the ages of six and eight show their skills on the field in an effort to obtain admission to the school. Two-hundred players make the cut each year. La Masia students undergo strenuous training, but just as importantly, they are meticulously educated about the game of football, the meaning of team, the value of sacrifice on and off the field and sportsmanship. They are also immersed in the values of the Catalan national character. The La Masia youth academy has been praised as one of the best of its kind in the world, and has played a significant role in Barcelona’s consistent success through the years. In 2010, La Masia was championed for being the first youth academy to have trained all three finalists in the prestigious Ballon d’Or Award (which honors the most important football player of the year), Lionel Messi, Andres Iniesta and Xavi Hernandez. Between 2010 and 2012, seven of the nine Ballon d’Or finalists have been from Barcelona, with Messi taking first place each year. The success of FC Barcelona and Messi is not a surprise, nor is it luck. Messi was invited to La Masia at age 11, and Page 74 • www.LNEONLINE.com

perfected his mastery of the game during his tenor. FC Barcelona has more “home grown” athletes than any other club in the world, with over three quarters of their squad originating from La Masia. Barcelona does not “buy” their champions, they grow them!

The model Regardless of whether or not you are a soccer fan, every business person should take note of the Barcelona model. They organically realized their success by achieving individual mastery, and more importantly, team mastery. This requires clear and deliberate objectives and parameters, perpetual education, strong leadership, a retention program with clear benchmarks of growth opportunities, and most importantly belief and passion. There is nothing fancy about this model. It is common sense, kept simple and consistent. At the same time, these basic fundamentals are generally overlooked in business, and in some cases, they simply do not exist at all. Instead, businesses are busy concocting fancy advertisements to attract the best talent with the highest credentials, and they expect that to bring their business to the next level. Unfortunately, nothing about this concept is relative to being a team. As a result, this creates an environment of high turnover of all stars who are paid too much and contribute too little. The Barcelona philosophy is to build from within by creating an environment that fosters and champions the culture of the club, which is your business in this case. Such an environment will teach, educate and propel your ideas and philosophies as a business throughout your team, community, city and world, all while breeding a stronger new team!

Every successful business is a school Will there be turnover and fall out? Absolutely. Out of the thousands of students who attended La Masia, a mere 17 of them are currently on the FC Barcelona roster. In business the statistics are similar, in that it is normal to lose up to 80 percent of new hires within the first year. Realizing and accepting this fact from the beginning is crucial. It prepares you for the reality continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Shutterstock.com

IF YOU ARE A FAN OF EUROPEAN FOOTBALL (SOCCER), you have likely heard of the team FC Barcelona and the likes of Lionel Messi—who is now considered the best football player in the world, and possibly the best in the history of the sport. Watching their intimate passing game and trust in one another is nothing short of amazing. Eleven perfectly orchestrated players move the ball rapidly from teammate to teammate, seemingly effortlessly, until they find the perfect opportunity to place the ball in the back of the net. How does FC Barcelona achieve such consistent mastery on the field? Are they constantly sourcing the best players? Paying the highest salaries? Landing the world’s greatest coach? The answer is simple: La Masia.

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business|la masia of running a business and stresses the importance of the details. Focus is necessary during the interviewing process and the early stages of a new hire’s employment. Until they have earned your trust, it will make you aware of how much you depend on this team member. Just like La Masia, perpetually seeking out new raw talent is a continuous part of running a business, and it is a process that is never finished. In reality, every business is a “school” if it is to succeed.

Think of how many people have filtered through your business over the years, and how many countless hours you have spent training team members. Is there a science to selecting the right fit for your team? Experts have pined over this idea for decades, and they have created a series of very expensive personality tests to guarantee the right fit for your team. As it turns out, studies have proven that your “gut” feeling about a new team member is

consistently more dependable than a $5,000 personality screening. Keep it simple; look for attributes in your new candidate that are similar to those of other successful long term team members. Invite these veteran team members to take part in the interviewing process. Be very clear about the ideas and philosophy of your business, as well as your expectations. Finally, make sure to give the candidate time to speak openly and tell you why they should be asked to join your team. In short, ask them to explain what they bring to the table, and why they believe that your business is a good long term fit for them. Experts note that new team members sourced via word of mouth are three times as likely as others to become long term. This is likely due to their previous knowledge of what the business represents, combined with the positive testimony of an existing team member. Our clientele is built in the same way.

Outliers Malcolm Gladwell explains the process of mastery exquisitely in his book Outliers. In short, it is the process of devoting 10,000 hours to a single focus, which is precisely what Messe was able to achieve at La Masia. However, more significant than Messe achieving mastery was the team itself achieving mastery together. The players on the FC Barcelona roster have been playing football with one another since childhood, hence the reason why they trust one another intuitively and play as one. Building a successful business team is no different, in that the longer your team maintains its core, the more masterful and efficiently they will perform. Ten-thousand hours of business time equates to approximately five to seven years. This means that as your core team begins to surpass the five-year mark, their individual productivity and long term team productivity have the potential to excel to an amazing level of creativity and accomplishment that will expeditiously propel your team forward. Another key component of the Barcelona team philosophy training is to Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #209 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

business|la masia ensure that they are always moving fluidly together, as players can interchange positions quickly. In business, this philosophy is referred to as “cross training,” and effectively ensures that every member of the team can perform any other position if and when needed to ensure team success. More than the practical aspect of cross training is refining the instinct and understanding of when the support is required, and there is a need for the entire team to move fluidly. This means that each time a team member steps up to fill a need, another team member must be right behind him to fill the vacancy he left.

Embrace change Change is one of the few certainties in life. At the same time, it seems to be human nature to resist change, as the end result of change is uncertain! On the field, realizing and adapting to change makes the difference between winning and losing. In business it makes the difference between success and failure. Embracing change is exhilarating and necessary for success. We have to proactively plan the future of our business, define direction, refine objectives and work with each team member to make sure that we are both staying on target for our long term goals together, as their roles within the team progress and evolve. At the end of the day the choice is simple: lead the change or react to others. Successful businesses lead. Since the inception of La Masia, FC Barcelona has won more championships and created more champions consistently than any other team in history. Their success is not an accident, but rather representative of a simple yet effective model that has achieved team mastery and paid dividends, time and time again. Creating a strong team and successful business is not something that can be bought via a high dollar consultant or a team of all stars, but rather something that can only be created and grown organically by you and your team. The passion that you have and dedication to mastery will emanate from your team in a form of energy that is hard to describe in words, and it will be championed by your loyalists. If you ever have a chance to watch an FC Barcelona match at Camp Nou, you will understand this loyalty as you look into the eyes of their fans! n

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. E-mail him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.

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www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 77

by Patti Biro

a village of | business wellness and healing

integrative healing institute

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sis. Vedic astrology services are a recent addition to the treatment menu. Guests can choose from a full range of massage therapy services, including Ashiatsu Oriental Bar Therapy (AOBT), Fijian barefoot massage and a unique modality called Natural Reflex Therapy™. Krost is the co-creator of this unique massage modality, which is a technique designed to help balance the individual’s endocrine system by stimulation of the neuro-lymphatic points in the body. NRT does not require the guest to disrobe, and it is a popular technique for all ages. It addresses the needs of guests with back pain, headaches, intestinal difficulties and sleep disorders, as well as other chronic health concerns. Education is a key factor in the path to wellness at the Institute. Guests can drop in for a session of lunchtime yoga or indulge in a Couples Massage, Aromatherapy,

Reiki, BodyTalk or Reflexology class. The classrooms are kept busy with a wide variety of continuing professional education courses for health care and wellness providers, on topics such as reiki, cupping, barefoot massage techniques and aromatherapy. continues

Classrooms are kept busy with a wide variety of continuing professional education courses for health care and wellness providers

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photos courtesy of the Integrative Healing Institute

KIM KROST, THE FOUNDER OF the Integrative Healing Institute (IHI) in San Antonio, TX, has just celebrated finishing her 10th year in business. As the Institute begins its 11th year, it is well positioned to meet the increasing demand for wellness services among the local San Antonio population. With a stated mission of being a resource of healing, the Institute is a true village of practitioners, therapies and supportive products and classes. Krost is not only a board certified aromatherapist, massage therapist, reflexologist and instructor, she is also the day to day driving force and inspiration behind the Institute. Though it began as a tiny two person operation, the Integrative Healing Institute has grown to include almost a dozen complementary and alternative health practitioners, providing a diverse selection of wellness therapies. Yes, some of them are therapies that you have probably experienced before, including massage, lymphatic drainage therapy, reflexology and reiki. But the menu also includes diverse options such as BodyTalk, intuitive energy healing, shamanic illumination and clearing, as well as holistic psy chotherapy and REEDY AND KROST clinical hypno-

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compatible,” Krost says. Today, not only does the group of villagers share a tranquil space—they also support each other.

Community outreach

From employer to village facilitator The path to a wellness village concept began over five years ago, when Krost repositioned her role at the Institute from employer to landlord, or a more apt description of “village facilitator.” Most of the practitioners at the institute lease space from IHI and function as independent practitioners. Potential “villagers” come in from the local area, and must be a fit with the principals of the Institute. “We are looking for exceptional healers who understand the importance of working as a cohesive group to promote health and healing through community,” Krost explains. Every village practitioner is encouraged to support the unique goals of the Institute, as well as each professional’s personal and business goals. Village members receive more than just a space to work in; the rental agreements include reception, payment services and website presence, as well as discounts on room rentals, yoga classes, products and supplies. The wellness village concept has proven so successful that the Institute recently moved into a larger location that spans nearly 7,000 square feet, providing the village members with 10 treatment rooms, two classrooms, a relaxation lounge, an expanded waiting area and a retail center. “Transitioning from the traditional model brought our facility more diversity,” Krost shared. “The Institute became integrative. Our clientele changed and became more diverse as well.” Were there bumps along the way? One of the challenges of building a new service delivery model was finding the right group of villagers. “In our enthusiasm to include everyone, we included some that were not Page 80 • www.LNEONLINE.com

The Institute hosts a unique program for veterans and their spouses called Vet TRIIP. Alternative health care practitioners volunteer for a full day of services that encompass a variety of modalities, all of which are provided at no cost to the participants. Participants select the services they want to experience. The services are targeted to pain relief, PTSD and related symptoms. “We love having Vet TRIIP in our facility,” Krost says. “The ongoing program has given us the opportunity to be a part of something really important, and has provided a great atmosphere for meeting other alternative health care providers practicing throughout the area.”

Wellness focused retail The Integrative Healing Institute has taken a unique approach to retail products. More than 50 products are included in the signature IHI aromatherapy product line. All products are made from floral essences, botanicals and essential oils. The formulations are developed by Krost, and represent a commitment to helping individuals address everyday issues such as allergies, stress and skin concerns. Babies, children and even the family cat and dog have special products designed just for them. Krost is the creator of a unique product that addresses cedar fever, a common allergy in the central Texas area that has sufferers rubbing their eyes and sneezing from December to February. The proprietary blend uses essential oils with a tiny bit of cedar. The formula is so effective that inquiries about the product have come from as far away as Japan. Her product was patented in the United States in 2010, and received a Japanese patent in 2011. All retail items and wellness products are personally selected to support the individual’s path to wellness. They include books, music and tools. A range of professional massage therapy prod-

ucts is available, supporting providers in the area who prefer to “shop local” and personally select their professional products.

The team The Integrative Healing Institute attributes its success in part to a committed and talented team. Krost’s daughter Elizabeth Reedy, who began working with the Institute during college, coordinates all the office functions. After years of working in a therapeutic environment, she is pursuing a degree in acupuncture. Office assistant and sales liaison Adela Acosta began her career as a jet aircraft mechanic, but discovered that her talents for marketing and pursuit of a wellness lifestyle were a perfect fit for the Institute. Together with Kim, they plan the activities of practitioners, coordinating full schedules of events, classes and services six days a week.

Is a wellness village in your future? Kosta offers the following advice for business owners who are considering developing the wellness village concept: “There is a great need for healing and wellness in our world. This type of business is important for our planet, and I feel that it must be led with your heart.” If you find yourself in the San Antonio area, the Integrative Healing Institute is one stop you do not want to miss! n Patti Biro has more than 25 years of experience designing and implementing professional education and client education programs. She is the creator of Elderssage™, a massage therapy program focusing on the needs of aging adults, and the owner of Patti Biro and Associates, a professional education consulting company. Biro is a frequent lecturer for the International Medical Spa Association. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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DESERVED RECOGNITION

BIZNEWS

The National Coalition of Estheticians, Manufacturers/Distributors & Associations (NCEA) is proud to announce Melissa M. Anderson as the winner of the first Gerson Award, sponsored by the Associated Skin Care Professionals. She is a licensed esthetic instructor who has been in the esthetics industry for over 27 years. Anderson believes that innovative education is the key to success in establishing a career in esthetics. She often implements new techniques and learning styles in order to accommodate today’s eclectic learner. Along with her teaching duties, Anderson enjoys volunteering as an area trainer for the American Cancer Society’s Look Good ... Feel Better program. As a member of the NCEA, Melissa is proud to support the organization’s goals, standards and advocacy for the esthetics profession. www.ascpskincare.com www.ncea.tv

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

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PRACTICAL EDUCATION This year’s National Esthetic Teacher’s Training (NETT) conference, taking place on the Saturday before each of the four International Congress of Esthetics and Spa conferences in 2013, includes interactive sessions led by top educators, who will be inspiring their students with teaching tools and tips to help them be their best. Paul Suttles, Pivot Point’s director of field education, helps teachers identify the key elements found in a lesson plan. Associated Skin Care Professionals’ director of education Susanne Schmaling provides the steps needed to demonstrate the myriad of medical devices now used by estheticians. Sherry D. Davis, Ed.D. of the California Department of Education explores the world of integrating student organizations into a school, and how advisory committees, state and federal education standards will affect your students in the “Real World of Work.” www.ncea.tv 201.670.4100

REMEMBERING AN ORGANIC PIONEER The international esthetics society mourns the passing of Ilike Organic Skin Care founder Dánielné Molnár. She passed away on January 9th at the age of 87. Molnár dedicated her life to the development and advancement of natural remedies as well as the improvement of worldwide esthetics knowledge and practices. “We at Szep Elet are very proud to have been associated with Aunt Ilike’s work and to have learned and benefited from her wisdom,” said Szilvia Hickman, senior vice president of Szep Elet, exclusive distributor of ilike organic skin care. “We are proud to continue carrying on her legacy and mission of providing all natural and organic remedies.” www.szepelet.com

BETTER BEAUTY PCA SKIN® is the winner of the 2013 Think Global Exporter Award in the health and beauty/fashion category. Think Global is the official export promotion magazine of the U.S. Department of Commerce. This award signifies excellence in the American export community in total sales, customer service and innovation in marketing products and services. www.pcaskin.com 877.PCA.SKIN www.thinkglobal.us

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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question you may be asking yourself now is, “How did Mother Nature design rose hip oil to regenerate and heal the skin?”

The dynamic players Like many plants, rose hips have carotenoids (carotene and lycopene), flavonoids and vitamin C, and show a strong antioxidant capacity that may be responsible for its pharmacological and therapeutic properties. In fact, rose hips contain a promising level of clinically relevant antioxidants associated with anti-aging capabilities and overall protection from free radicals by improving skin cell communication. These elements definitely play a role in this impressive oil; however, the prime players of this dynamic team are the essential fatty acids combined with vitamin A. All plant oils have unsaturated essential fatty acids. The difference lies in which ones they contain and how much. In this case, rose hip oil has approximately 45 percent linoleic acid (omega 6), 32 percent linolenic acid (omega 3) and 15 percent oleic acid, as well as palmitic acid. As Sam Lam, M.D. explains in a brief report on anti-aging, “Fatty acids are essential building blocks of cellular membranes to allow efficient transportation of nutrients from the extracellular space into the intracellular environment where metabolism takes place.” Fatty acids are essential for healthy skin. In fact, linolenic acid is crucial for skin’s anti-inflammatory capabilities, where it assists in multiple skin disorders related to inflammation, while linoleic acid assists in moisturizing and conditioning skin. Despite the abundant presence of essential fatty acids, rose hip oil is known to be a “dry oil,” in the sense that it is quickly absorbed into the skin. This ability

could be related to the oil’s other dynamic player, transretinoic acid, a derivative of vitamin A, also known as tretinoin. Rose hip oil produces the benefits of tretinoin without such side effects. When the oil is applied to the skin, the beneficial effects of tretinoin are slowly released due to the presence of unsaturated fatty acids, eliminating the risk of doing more harm than good and resulting in a perfect orchestra of skin rejuvenation. Some scientists attribute rose hip seed oil’s capabilities to its high essential fatty acid content, others to the presence of vitamin A, and some study its antioxidant capacity. Rose hip is one of many plants that scientists continue to research, pinpointing those “active” components and isolating them in order to patent new formulations to bring to market. We tend to forget that Mother Nature has already provided us with flawless designs to assist us in attaining optimal health and beautiful skin. Rose hip seed oil is a perfect example of a group of nature’s balanced compounds that works to impeccably rejuvenate skin. The answer lies not in its parts, but in its whole. Using natural, organic ingredients is perhaps all we need to repair, rejuvenate, hydrate and maintain healthy skin. n Karym Urdaneta is an author, engineer and partner of Pink Horizons Botanical Skin Care, an industry leader maintaining ‘Champion’ status with the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. She has helped establish multiple programs, workshops and lectures for organizations such as the Institute for Technology Innovation at the Pino Entrepreneurship Center and the Department of Biomedical Engineering at Florida International University. Email her at karym.urdaneta@pinkhorizons. com or visit www.pinkhorizons.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Mario7/Shutterstock.com

ROSE HIP, FROM THE SPECIES Rosa rubiginosa, is a seasonal shrub with a nice, apple-like scent in its foliage that has a five petal flower (usually pink) considered to be a “wild” rose. In Chile, rose hip is found in the wild, around the Andes where indigenous people have been using it for centuries, incorporating it into their food preparations, medical potions and skin treatments. Rose “hips” are the seed pods of roses in the form of a small fruit from which the oil is extracted. Even though indigenous people knew how valuable rose hip oil was, findings indicate that this oil was discovered by scientists in the early 1980s. The earliest studies were registered in Chile, where this oil, known as “rosa mosqueta,” had tremendously positive results on burns, chronic ulcerations of the skin, brown spots, premature aging and scars as old as 20 years! One dramatic case involved a young woman who had severe wounds and damage all over her face due to a car accident, and after four months of continuous treatment with rose hip oil, the scars had practically vanished, and her skin had flawlessly regenerated. A popular two-year study was carried out by a group of scientists and doctors from both the U.S. and Chile, where patients with extensive facial scarring due to acne, UV damage, radiation damage, burns, surgery, aging, dermatitis and other skin related problems were treated as well. Again with remarkable results, rose hip seed oil regenerated skin, reduced scars and surface wrinkles, prevented the development of premature aging, and improved color and skin tone. The existing scientific research on rose hip seed oil and its effect on the skin is not only evident, it’s extensive. Those that understand skin care know what rose hip oil can do. The

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NUSTA SPA, WASHINGTON, D.C. BY LOLLIE ONIPEDE

LUXURIOUS FACIALS, MASSAGE, NAIL CARE & SPA ESSENTIALS LOCATED IN DOWNTOWN WASHINGTON, D.C., Nusta Spa offers a full range of luxury spa services for men and women. With almost 5,000 square feet of space, it is the first Gold LEED certified spa of its kind, designed with high performance green interiors that are healthier, more efficient and environmentally conscious than the average spa facility. The inspiration for Nusta’s eco-friendly concept was born during founder Elizabeth Snowdon’s trip to the Incan ruins in Peru. During her travels to the South American country, Snowdon learned about the environmental degradation taking place in the region, and felt compelled to bring environmental awareness back to the business community. She developed the concept for Nusta, which means “royalty” in the indigenous South American language

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Quechua, and vowed to create a luxury day spa that captured the essence of ecological wisdom. “Our goal is to treat our clients like royalty while still caring for our planet,” explains managing owner Brad Drummer. “We take great pride in protecting our natural resources while still offering the highest standards of skin and body care.” Snowdon and Drummer’s commitment to environmental sustainability begins with the spa’s design and décor: Energy Star appliances, Forest Stewardship Council certified wood cabinetry, low-VOC paint, low mercury lamps, consumer waste printer paper, soy ink, recycled bamboo furnishings, monitored air quality and eco-wood flooring, just to name a few. During construction, they even considered transportation and fuel costs when sourcing many of the construction materials, and made sure to select a location that was close to public transportation. Drummer explains, “We not only selected natural, renewable or recyclable materials whenever possible, but we worked to minimize the Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

organic & wellness

ecological impact of the space while improving the lives of our employees and clients.” With such a far-reaching green philosophy, Nusta Spa has been recognized with the D.C. American Institute of Architects (AIA) Chapter’s Presidential Citation for Sustainable Design and the Northern Virginia AIA Special Citation for Sustainability. Nusta has also won the Hospitality Design Award for Creative Achievement in Sustainable Design and the Regional Award of Merit from the 2005 Illumination Design Awards. In addition to embracing a holistic approach to construction and operations, Nusta also emphasizes service offerings that evoke harmony between the body and Earth. The spa provides an array of signature massage therapy services, purifying facial treatments, hydrating anti-aging treatments, enriched body toning wraps, natural eyelashes and other services, most of which utilize non-toxic products. March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

One of the most popular treatments at Nusta Spa is the nature-inspired Organic Facial, which includes an application of essential oils that combines marine ingredients with Mediterranean plants. Nusta Spa also offers a Dead Sea Mud Body Wrap, which counteracts water retention and the accumulation of metabolic waste for a slimming effect that restores balance and physical well-being. “We take a natural approach to supporting your health by offering services that use active, organic ingredients whenever possible,” Drummer adds. “But more importantly, underlying this natural approach is the belief that every service is an opportunity to impact the well-being of the client on more than just a cosmetic level. Every treatment that helps the health and appearance of someone’s skin is building that client’s confidence and self esteem; each muscle that is loosened is one more bit of stress removed from a person’s life; and every product we sell is the chance to extend the benefits of the treatment into a person’s daily life. By approaching our services in such a manner, the ultimate goal becomes the improvement of one’s whole well-being—an empowering experience that sends the customer back into the world more at peace with his/her environment.” continues

“WE TAKE A NATURAL APPROACH TO SUPPORTING YOUR HEALTH BY OFFERING SERVICES THAT USE ACTIVE, ORGANIC INGREDIENTS WHENEVER POSSIBLE,” DRUMMER ADDS.

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organic & wellness

CY CMY

SKIN HAS MANY FACES ® COMPETENT IN SKIN CARE AND PROBLEM SOLVING

DR. MED. CHRISTINE SCHRAMMEK DERMA.COSMETICS DERMATOLOGY MEETS COSMETICS Under the expert supervision of Dr. med. Christine Schrammek-Drusio, dermatologist and anti-aging specialist, a professional and innovative skincare series was created with the goal of helping restore the healthy and beautiful appearance of skin. This dermatologically conceptualised skincare series makes it possible to offer special treatment concepts for every skin type in the salon booth, alongside effective skincare products for use at home. For cosmetics pros – from a dermatologist

DRUMMER HIMSELF HAS DEVELOPED A MASSAGE MODALITY THAT HAS A FOLLOWING UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN THE WASHINGTON AREA. HE IS THE CREATOR OF INTERPRETIVE TOUCH™ MASSAGE. With such a deep-rooted philosophy of the mind, body and Earth, Drummer himself has developed a massage modality that has a following unlike any other in the Washington area. He is the creator of Interpretive Touch™ Massage, a deep tissue massage that uses pulsating pressure and wave induction strokes to deeply affect muscles without the pain often associated with conventional deep techniques. With a pre-med background, as well as his acting and performing experience, he has an almost intuitive sense of the body. Drummer has trained countless therapists on this unique modality, and continues to educate other therapists on how to restore the body to its natural rhythm through massage. In fact, his Interpretive Touch Massage Therapy class is endorsed by the National Certification Board for Therapeutic Massage & Bodywork (NCBTMB).

Dr. med. Christine Schrammek MD research

photography by The Jake Group

der m a.cos m etics The power of medical beauty. Interested? We will gladly send you further information.

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

Other special services at Nusta Spa include eye treatments, anti-aging techniques, radiant treatments to add luminosity to the skin, contouring massage therapies for toned definition, detoxifying therapies to eliminate metabolic waste and exfoliation treatments for the skin to stimulate enhanced circulation.

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BEAUTY IN HARMONY WITH NATURE NEW WAYS TO BEAUTIFUL, HEALTHY SKIN THE VISIBLE SUCCESS OF GREEN PEEL ® TREATMENTS GREEN PEEL® for every skin type and all age groups

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GREEN PEEL® “We aim to continue being on the cutting-edge of health and wellness technologies and philosophies,” Drummer states, in reference to Nusta’s plans for the future. “We are actually developing new services that we believe will one day be embraced by the entire spa community. As our hope for the spa is to continue evolving towards a wellness spa, we have begun the process of adding dietary support and hair care to the selection of services we offer.” From the sustainable design of the physical space to unique spa treatments, the goal of Nusta Spa continues to be to create an eco-friendly experience beyond compare that enhances the mind, body and soul of every guest. Nusta Spa proves that there truly is confidence in comfort. n

Lollie Onipede is a marketing coordinator at Marketing Solutions, a fullservice marketing, advertising and PR agency specializing in the professional salon, spa and medical industries. For more information call 703.359.6000, email MktgSols@MktgSols.com or visit www.MktgSols.com.

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March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 89

by Celeste Hilling

organic & wellness|inside out beauty a marriage of healthy nutrition and effective skin care

Vitamin A Whether you call it retinyl, retinol or retinoid, everyone should have some form of vitamin A in their product bag! • Vitamin A is applied to the skin to improve wound healing, reduce Page 90 • www.LNEONLINE.com

One pomegranate can supply 40 percent of an adult’s daily requirement of vitamin C.

wrinkles, firm, tighten and provide protection against UV radiation. • In high concentrations, vitamin A can be harsh. I like applying vitamin A daily, so I use the milder forms, with concentrations between .01 and .05 percent. • Sweet potatoes, carrots, green tea, broccoli and pumpkin are excellent sources of vitamin A. • As a topical application, vitamin A is effective in creams, lotions or serums.

Vitamin C It may not be the cure for the common cold, but other benefits of vitamin C include protection against immune system deficiencies, cardiovascular disease,

prenatal health problems, eye disease and skin wrinkling. Note the key information about vitamin C below. • It adds density, tightness and glow to skin, eliminates uneven skin tone and fights free radical damage. • Encourage clients to use a concentration of 20 percent or higher daily. They should apply it in the morning under sunscreen to boost protection. • Vitamin C has to be present in order for collagen to be made (again at the 20 percent concentration level). • One pomegranate can supply 40 percent of an adult’s daily requirement of vitamin C. Other continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: AISPIX by Image Source /Shutterstock.com

THERE IS SOMETHING MEANINGful to glean from the phrase, “beautiful inside and out.” Another one I love is, “You are what you eat.” Do you see a trend here? Healthy skin is a direct reflection of what’s going on inside your body. The key essential nutrients that are critical in healthy nutrition are also critical in effective skin care. Today’s consumers “get” this correlation and actually see topical skin nutrition as an extension of healthy eating. Let’s capitalize on this interest and help clients create a cornucopia of skin care and nutrition goodness. Step one: An inside-out approach should be centered on vitamins A, C and D, as well as omega fatty acids. Step two: Educate clients on how whole food sources are the best methods for extracting the greatest nutritional value from food. When you eat a whole food—an apple, for example, you get all the vitamins and minerals that are in the apple. Whole foods offer a solution for everyone in the family—kids, seniors, vegans and raw foodies. Even though your clients may be taking supplements, it’s what the body absorbs and uses that counts. Step three: Give clients a tutorial on omega fatty acids and vitamins A, C and D.

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day, as I need more replenishment to maintain my active lifestyle. I also apply it topically morning and night.

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foods rich in vitamin C include oranges, broccoli, cantaloupe, pumpkin and tomatoes. • It should be used in a serum form instead of lotions or creams, as vitamin C oxygenates very quickly when it hits the air.

Vitamin D Vitamin D is only made in one place— the skin. As we age, the skin’s ability to produce vitamin D declines. Even if we get enough vitamin D internally (which is nearly impossible), less than one percent of what we ingest makes its way to the skin. • Vitamin D deficiency may be linked to cancer, cardiovascular disease, autoimmune disease, bone loss, depression and many other serious health conditions. Page 92 • www.LNEONLINE.com

• Vitamin D is a hormone, and regulates everything else in the body. We know that hormonal imbalances cause skin conditions; therefore if we can balance vitamin D levels, we will find that a lot of skin conditions will improve, such as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and heavy wrinkling. • Seasonal variations (such as dreary winter weather), geographical location and aging reduce our skin’s ability to manufacture vitamin D from sunlight. • Fatty fish such as salmon, tuna and mackerel are among the best sources of vitamin D. Beef, liver, cheese, mushrooms and egg yolks are also great sources. • The USDA daily requirement is 600 IU per day. Many physicians recommend a higher level of about 1,200 IU per day. I consume 3,000 IU per

Celeste Hilling is the founder and CEO of Skin Authority. She is also the host of the nationally syndicated Internet radio show Skin Health TODAY, where she pulls from her more than 15 years of experience in the spa and lifestyle industries. Hilling helps consumers take charge and make smart choices for healthy skin and positive self image. Go to www.skinauthority.com or www.skinhealthtoday.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Olga Ekaterincheva/Shutterstock.com

If we can balance vitamin D levels, we will find that a lot of skin conditions will improve, such as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and heavy wrinkling.

• Ninety-eight percent of a cell membrane is comprised of fatty acids. • Fatty acids, including omegas 3 and 6, improve the layer of skin that holds moisture in and keeps irritation out. Fatty acids may also improve rosacea and dermatitis. • They are found in fish, including salmon, tilapia and cod, as well as plant based sources such as flaxseed, walnuts, pecans and hazelnuts. It’s also a good idea to cook with safflower or sunflower oil, as they are good sources of omega 6 fatty acids, which help prevent dry skin and inflammation. • Omega fatty acids work on the surface of the skin and are best applied in creams and lotions, both morning and night. Inside-out beauty does not require a lot of time and effort. As skin care professionals, approaching clients with lessons on inside-out beauty changes our roles from simple cosmetic advisors to providers of life saving education. n

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by Jeri Ross

Stress starts in the brain

peace of mind treatments TODAY’S SPA CLIENTS ARE BEING proactive when it comes to preventive health care. They are doing this by seeking natural, holistic solutions that will help them have more energy, longevity, zest for life and better sleep, all of which equates to better stress management. As holistic wellness services grow in popularity, stress reduction programs in spas are on the rise. Having a better understanding of what causes stress and learning about stress reduction solutions provides an opportunity for your spa to continually change and adapt to meet this market demand.

“Decades of research have shown that meditation and guided imagery calms stress and enhances brain function.“ -Daniel Amen, M.D.

For years, neuroscientists have been studying the brain to determine what causes stress. One thing they have been able to confirm is that the stress response starts in the brain. The next question then becomes what makes the brain start signaling the stress response? The answer is a perceived threat. The key word here is “perceived.” In his groundbreaking book, Evolve Your Brain, Joe Dispenza, D.C. explains that moment by moment, we train our body to be unhealthy by our habitual fearbased thoughts. Let’s put this into a real life situation to demonstrate what he means: You are stuck in traffic and are going to be late for work. You think about being late for work—a thought—and the thought of being late for work then triggers an emotion—fear. Basically, now you are the one that is igniting the physiological actions of stress in your body with a perceived threat. This is called the “fight or flight” response. You have told your brain to flood the body with stress hormones, adrenaline and cortisol. We do know that over time, an overload of stress hormones can lead to high blood pressure, anxiety, insomnia, depression, digestive problems and a weakened immune system. It is also well documented that stress contributes to causing common skin disorders such as premature aging, rosacea, acne, psoriasis, eczema and cellulite. Your clients want relief from these life devitalizing symptoms.

Think calm The good news is that we have the power to control our automatic physiological Page 94 • www.LNEONLINE.com

response to stress. As mentioned, studies in neuroscience are providing empirical data proving that the brain is responsible for turning the stress response on or off. So, how can we train the brain to better manage stress? It is clear that the solution to combating stress is to change our thoughts. According to John B. Arden, Ph.D., author of Rewire Your Brain: Think Your Way to a Better Life, there has been an overwhelming amount of evidence showing that the brain has neuroplasticity or can be molded based on new experiences and thoughts. He explains that by repeating messages in the brain, new neuropathways—the brain’s communication channels—are formed. “Cells that fire together wire together,” Dr. Arden concludes. The other point to take into account here is that if we think calming thoughts in order to interrupt the cascading flood of emotional stress hormones, we are simultaneously dissolving neuropathways that have been hard-wired to promote the stress response for years. It is a case of “use it or lose it,” and when it comes to stress, you want to lose it.

Imagine it’s easy if you try So now we know we can change our minds to stop the stress response, but how is it possible to break out of old thinking patterns? It sounds great, but what will it take to accomplish brain-based stress management? One of the most effective stress reduction techniques for changing habitual fear-based thoughts is guided imagery. You have likely heard of guided imagcontinues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

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ery or meditation. While it is not a new practice, recent studies in neuroscience that back up its effectiveness have allowed us to better understand how and why it works. According to Daniel Amen, M.D., internationally acclaimed brain health expert and the author of Change Your Brain Change Your Life, “Decades of research have shown that meditation and guided imagery calms stress and enhances brain function. “ Guided imagery engages the imagination with peaceful words and suggestions of being (e.g., tranquil settings such as the beach or the forest). The brain doesn’t know the difference between what is really happening and what we create in our minds using our imaginations. Researchers using brain imaging and transcranial magnetic stimulation (TMS) have shown that simply imagining a session of piano practice increases neural cell firing in the area of the brain associated with the finger movements of playing the piano. They discovered that mental practice alone contributes to the rewiring of the brain. With frequent repetition of a peaceful experience that elicits calming thoughts, the brain starts to physically build new neuropathways that promote lasting states of relaxation, even in times of stress and anxiety. Practicing guided imagery for just a few minutes daily can tame the effects of stressful life situations that used to cause unrest; this results in minimizing the impact of stress-related illnesses and conditions that rob us of our health.

Neuroscience in your spa How can your spa integrate brain-based stress reduction services? It can be as easy as adding a treatment that combines a guided imagery listening experience designed to enhance health and beauty with a foot, hand and neck massage. Institut’ DERMed Spa in Atlanta, GA began offering a 30-minute protocol called Health Illumina Mind Massage this past November. The treatment starts off with the client selecting a guided imagery audio track that they will listen to during the service. Then a warm

shoulder wrap is placed around the client’s neck, along with laying a warm eye pillow over the client’s eyes. Massage therapists start the session with lavender aromatherapy and then proceed with special attention to acupressure points that calm the brain and nervous system in the feet, hands and neck. “Offering the Health Illumina Mind Massage to our spa customers has been an overwhelming success,” states Lyn Ross, owner of Institut’ DERMed Spa. “Since we launched the service, we have booked over 50 appointments. We have new people in the spa and repeat business from clients that are coming back for more. Our customers and massage therapists have embraced brain-body stress reduction as a holistic treatment that works and is sought after.”

The art of spa meets the art of neuroscience In conclusion, integrating emerging discoveries in neuroscience with wellness services positions your spa on the leading edge of research based advances in health and beauty treatments. As demand for preventative health solutions increases, now is the time to consider implementing brain-based stress-reduction programs. By offering brain-based stress reduction programs, spas have the opportunity to help their clients harness the power of their brains to improve the quality of their lives. n

Jeri Ross, MPH, is a licensed health educator with more than 25 years of experience in public health. She is also a certified International Brain Education Association (IBREA) Leader, and owner of Braintasia Mind Mastery Method™, a brain-based stress reduction program practiced in the spa industry. For more information, email jeriross@braintasia.com or visit www.braintasia.com.

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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BE A LEADER REVOLUTIONIZE TURNKEY SPA WELLNESS MODELS

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

organic & wellness

“ W E L L N E S S ” H A S B E C O M E A V E RY common catchphrase throughout the health, fitness and spa industries, encompassing the overall trend toward individual healthy lifestyle changes. Your spa business is the perfect environment for such lifestyle changes to happen, as spas are one of the first locations that come to mind when we think of what contributes to a healthy lifestyle. By effectively offering and promoting spa wellness programs in your business, you may now add a valuable new revenue stream while transforming the lives of your clients and becoming a leader within your community and the spa industry. By partnering with experienced consultants who understand the different layers of education involved in delivering effective results, you will ensure a successful transformation for your spa. Angie Yasulitis, the wellness programming manager at ECOSPA360™, is a spa wellness advocate. “Spa wellness programs are becoming a very effective way to help spa clients lose weight, get fit, create new lifestyle habits, and create a healthy balance in life,” she says. “Wellness programs are diverse and can include existing spa services and modalities. By offering a structured program to meet the specific needs of your clients, including wellness coaching in lifestyle changes, nutritional tools, health coaching, care plans and educational programming that can fit in nicely with your current spa services. Guests are wanting spas to provide tangible results with biometric measurements and wellness records that can be tracked, providing the statistics to back up their programs.”

Your spa does not have be a large destination facility to join in the wellness movement. Your own spa menu is the perfect starting point for your massage therapy, skin care, body care and alternative healing service offerings. If you have a large treatment room, lounge area, reception or other common area to use, you can hold classes, show webinars or have lectures. Some great wellness options to consider are aromatherapy, yoga, meditation, tai chi, breathing techniques or Reiki. You can also offer nutrition classes, lifestyle counseling, smoking cessation or personal product demonstrations. By partnering with experts who provide corporate wellness programs and training, you can create more formal programs and expand your clientele.

The perfect setting for wellness

A smoking cessation program is just one example of a real lifestyle transformation wellness program. Strive to make behavioral changes with the help of webinars or classes that deliver a very direct message on the clinical health damage from nicotine use. If participants decide they are ready, they then start an 11-week program, beginning with education. The programs are tailored to each individual and his or her reaction to cessation. Participants touch base with their coach regularly to evaluate how they are doing and to make adjustments if needed. continues

Spas have become classic wellness program providers, as they are an obvious choice for transformation. Yasulitis notes, “The spa environment is naturally conducive to wellness. People look at spas as a destination getaway, even if it is only for an hour. Spas offering wellness programs to local businesses are a great resource, as using the workplace for a wellness location sometimes has a negative connotation. When you marry the spa location to a workplace wellness program, you can really deliver results, and individuals get the best of both worlds!”

March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

SOME GREAT WELLNESS OPTIONS TO CONSIDER ARE AROMATHERAPY, YOGA, MEDITATION, TAI CHI, BREATHING TECHNIQUES OR REIKI. BY JENNY HOGAN

Wellness trends and technologies There’s an app for that! As wellness becomes increasingly mainstream, smartphone applications have been created that do everything from count calories, track physical exercise, log sleep hours, record fitness goals and remind you to drink more water. Study the latest trends and figure out what your spa business can offer to stay up to date. For instance, juicing is now a $5 billion industry—and it is still growing! Your spa could have a healthy green juice bar and offer clients a tasty tonic as a wellness program perk. Additionally, you can offer nutrition classes centering on weight loss with instructions for juicing, raw foods or detoxifying cleanses. Industry consultants can help you design such programs for your spa.

Lifestyle transformations

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organic & wellness|be a leader

SPA SETTINGS ALLOW PARTICIPANTS TO MEET COACHES IN A RELAXING ATMOSPHERE, AS WELL AS PROVIDE THE SETTING FOR GROUP CLASSES OR GATHERINGS.

Customized plans with real results Participants in wellness programs receive wellness screenings. Based on each client’s background, wellness experts develop a care plan around their specific needs, capabilities and goals. Group classes, webinars and tutorials provide education, and the participant touches base with a wellness coach, ideally two times a month. Spa settings

allow participants to meet coaches in a relaxing atmosphere, as well as provide the setting for group classes or gatherings. Members who stick to their care plans could see weight loss and drops in cholesterol, triglyceride and glucose rates. Of course, individual and group results may differ depending on variables such as the quality of coaching and actual implementation. Stay a step ahead of the competition by offering more than just pampering spa services. By partnering with experienced consultants to provide effective personal and corporate wellness programs, your spa will be able to help your own clientele transform their lives and to support local businesses who want to provide wellness programs for their employees. You can build your clientele, create business relationships in your community and become a leader in the burgeoning wellness industry. Wellness programs will only continue to grow in popularity, and spas are the perfect setting in which to implement them. Spa owners can tap into this new trend to reach the next level in the industry, and to help their clients and their businesses thrive! n *Editorial note: ECOSPA360 provides wellness coaching and education, and does not diagnose or treat disease. For more information on spa wellness programs, corporate wellness programs and instructor training, contact ECOSPA360 at 888.505.7975.

Jenny Hogan is the media director at Marketing Solutions, Inc., a full-service marketing, advertising and PR agency specializing in the professional beauty business. For more information, contact 703-359-6000, visit www.MktgSols.com or send an email to MktgSols@MktgSols.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #104 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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organic & wellness

organic vs.natural THE ORGANIC AND NATURAL segment of the personal care market continues to be one of the fastest growing in the cosmetics and toiletries industry, demonstrated by its double-digit percentage growth in the U.S. year after year. If you are not participating in this segment, you probably will be soon. At the very least, you should start considering it. There is concern that daily exposure to a combination of toxic ingredients found in many skin care, personal care and cosmetic products could result in detrimental long-term health effects. As a result, consumers are actively seeking out “organic” and “natural” skin care products to use as part of their daily skin care routine. As the consumer-driven “green” market continues to gain momentum, more and more brands are starting to use the words “organic,” “natural” and “chemical free” in their names and marketing

collateral. In addition, companies are increasingly displaying organic trade or consumer group logos and agricultural certifications to show their professional affiliations and earn the trust and confidence of the discerning consumer. With thousands of skin care products on the market, there’s a lot of confusion out there about the distinction between organic and natural. Although often used interchangeably, the differences are quite significant. As more and more companies embrace the shift toward eco-friendly products, it’s imperative to discern quality and authenticity from “green washing,” which is the practice of making an unsubstantiated or misleading claim about the environmental benefits of a product. To get started, let’s first take a look at the differences between the terms natural and organic.

What is the generally accepted definition of natural? The word “nature” is derived from the Latin word “natura,” or “nature nurtured; nature doing what nature does.” As it relates to skin care products, the generally accepted definition of the use of the word natural can be defined as “any material that is harvested, mined or collected from nature, and which may have subsequently been washed, decolorized, distilled, fractionated, ground, milled, separated or concentrated in order to remove a chemical or chemicals that would be available and detectable in the original source material.” Additionally, one could also say that “Natural material may be modified in order to alter or increase the yield of material by this process.” At this time, there is no government agency in charge of regulating the use of continues

BY SZILVIA HICKMAN

Page 102 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Anna Hoychuk/Shutterstock.com

THE DIFFERENCE IN SKIN CARE

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #245 on reader service card

organic & wellness|organic vs. natural

FARMS NEED TO HAVE CERTIFICATION FOR THEIR CROPS TO BE CERTIFIABLE AS ORGANIC COSMETIC INGREDIENTS. the term natural, allowing skin care companies to use the word as they see fit. What is the definition of organic? Unlike the unregulated term natural, skin care products labeled as organic must meet strict requirements by the certifying body. Natural ingredients that result from organic farming methods are generally called organic. Organic farming is a form of agriculture, which avoids the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, plant growth regulators and livestock feed additives. In a number of countries, including the U.S., China and most of Europe, organic farming is defined by law, so that the commercial use of the term organic to describe farming and food products

is regulated by their respective governments. Where laws exist, it is usually illegal for a non-certified farm to call itself or its products organic. Farms need to have certification for their crops to be certifiable as organic cosmetic ingredients. Unfortunately, there are brands that claim to be natural and/or organic when only a very small amount of their agriculturally grown ingredients are actually derived from farms with certified organic growing conditions. So how do you move forward? Consider asking your natural/organic skin care brand the following questions: • How long has your company been committed to sustainable organic/ natural practices? • Do you know where all of your certified organic/natural ingredients are grown? Are your sources traceable? • What preservative systems do you use in your products? Do you use chemical and/or natural preservatives? If so, what are they? • Do you use third party certification, and if so which? What third party

ORGANIC CERTIFICATION AND STANDARDS AGENCIES Below is a comprehensive list of the most prominent national and international certification agencies. If your skin care product carries one of these seals, be sure to visit their website to learn more about their certification programs and organic standards. BDIH: www.kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de CCOF: www.ccof.org COSMOS BDIH: www.kontrolliertenaturkosmetik.de COSMEBIO: www.cosmebio.org ECOCERT: www.ecocert.com ICEA: www.icea.info NASAA: www.nasaa.com NATRUE various agencies: www.natrue.org NSF/ANSI 305 OREGON TILTH: www.tilth.org QAI: www.qai-inc.com SOIL ASSOCIATION: www.sacert.org USDA NOP ASCO: www.ascorganic.com

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certified organic/natural body do you use to certify your products? Does the third party certifying body specialize in agricultural or cosmetic organic/natural standards? Is your entire product certified organic/natural, or is it only selected ingredients? If only selected ingredients are certified, what percentage of the entire product is certified organic/natural, including emulsifiers, preservatives and water? How long has your product been certified organic/natural?

Considering these few questions will help you determine the depth, transparency and authenticity of any brand you may be considering for your skin and body care spa partner. Be sure that you rely upon the Green Spa Network as a resource. This non-profit organization brings spa professionals and industry experts together to help spas develop their business in a sustainable and profitable way. n

*Some of the informational content of this article was provided in cooperation with the Green Spa Network.

Szilvia Hickman is co-owner and senior vice president of Szép Élet, the exclusive distributor of ilike organic skin care. She is also a member of the Green Spa Network Personal Care Product Committee (www.greenspanetwork.org). For more information on ilike organic skin care products call 888.290.6238 or visit www.szepelet.com. Hickman can be reached at shickman@szepelet.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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Stick-e® Products are innovative fitness accessories and props, primarily for yoga and Pilates. All of the products are designed to solve problems and provide a safer, cleaner and more rewarding fitness experience. The line consists of highly absorbent, non-slip socks, gloves and towels. The Stick-e towels and mats are known for their alignment lines. The Stick-e Beamfit balance beam is a popular core strengthening device. Stick-e also offers joint support items such as the Wrist Saver® Block and the Knee and Wrist Saver. www.stick-e.com 708.960.4855

MOUNTAIN MADE Dr. Spiller Pure SkinCare Solutions introduces Alpenrausch, a new line of 23 certified organic products for the face and body featuring active ingredients from the Alps. The Alpenrausch range represents a flawless combination of traditional skin care ingredients and unconventional components such as native edelweiss. These inventive products deliver harmonious care and visible results with a clean conscience. www.spillerus.com/ CertifiedOrganic 1.800.355.4485

NATURE’S BEAUTY HERBAL RADIANCE Dr. Grandel is expanding its award-winning ampoule range collection with the addition of Nutri Sensation. The amazing formula utilizes the essential elements of raspberry seed oil, an extract from the immortality herb, and a marine exopolysaccharide (EPS) complex to regenerate, nourish and firm the skin, define facial contours and create a more youthful, radiant appearance. Nutri Sensation comes with an attractive display for beauty salons and spas to trigger clients’ interest. www.grandel-skincare.com

Aveda introduces the limited-edition Art of Nature makeup collection for spring/ summer of 2013. It includes two Nourish-mint Smoothing Lip Colors, one Nourish-Mint Rehydrating Lip Glaze, two Nourish-Mint Lip Liners, one Petal Essence Face Accents Trio, two Petal Essence Eye Definers and six Petal Essence Single Eye Colors. The collection is inspired by nature, boasting pure pastels and vibrant colors. It is formulated with natural plant ingredients, and creates shades ranging from sheer to intense for eyes and lips, creating a romantic flush of color. www.aveda.com 800.328.0849

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

image

whole-list-it

photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com

by Tim Maurer

“HOLISTIC” IS A TERM THAT CONcerns the understanding of wholes or complete systems, rather than the analysis or dissection of their parts. When I hear the word, as I often do these days, I can’t help but think of the term “wholelist-it.” Think of all the lists that apply to you and who you are. Your personality has been derived from countless lists, genetic markers, your childhood environment, socio-economic situation, etc. Your personal definition of modern beauty has been influenced in many of the same ways, and by the same factors. What is my definition of modern beauty? No artifice. No stencil. No standard. No apology. As an artist who has been taught to make every effort to achieve symmetrical perfection, what I just stated is more of a personal ideal than an everyday reality. Shapes, sizes, hues, heritages, demographics ... the longer I work in this industry, the more I get it. True beauty is in the quirkiness that makes up our personal image, both in the way we look and the way we feel about ourselves. So list the things you love about your face and focus on the positive. If your eyes are the winners, for example, find the easiest ways to get the most bang for your buck. There is hardly a woman left who wants the dilemma of selecting from a dozen eye shadow options to complicate her morning routine. Women want only the best possible choices at hand as they prepare themselves and their families to face the day, and they try to make it all look effortless. I thought I was here to transform every woman into the absolute embodiment of beauty. In reality, I am here to March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

give women the products and insights to make themselves feel that way in under five minutes, usually with no more than five items. After decades of faux rhinoplasties, cheekbone lifts and jawline reconstructions, I have come to the conclusion that this chicanery belongs in photo shoots and Hollywood films. Even though I have become so adept at these techniques that the results are nearly imperceptible, they are the most difficult techniques to teach and master. When done badly, the final product can look vulgar and downright

someone who once believed that the client was the lucky one. When I realized that the lucky one in that relationship was me, and that each and every client who walked through my door had the right to

When I realized that each and every client who walked through my door had the right to be and to feel beautiful, the gift kept giving.

ridiculous in direct sunlight. Instead of plastic surgery with brushes, try to focus on playing up the client’s positive features. As we embrace holistic skin care as a strategy for addressing our whole person, we should also embrace makeup that attempts to accomplish this same objective. When my attitude changed toward my real role in this client-focused business, the loyalty of my staff and my clients ascended to a level that I had never before imagined possible. I realized my clients are the reason why I am still here, 25 years later, enjoying a successful career in this industry. I wonder where I would be now if I had this epiphany a decade earlier. This is not a sermon, or even a suggestion. This is the honest confession of

be and to feel beautiful, the gift kept giving. It took me almost 20 years to come to that realization. If you haven’t already done so, hopefully tomorrow is the dawn of a new day for you, and you can accept every gift you have been given. n Tim Maurer, president and creator of Mukha Custom Cosmetics and Mukha Essentials, is an internationally renowned makeup artist with more than 20 years of experience as a master esthetician. Driven by his passion for the art of makeup and the allure of healthy skin, Maurer’s mission is to raise the bar on the knowledge and application of makeup at today’s leading spas. Contact him at tmaurer@mukhaessentials.com or visit www.mukhaessentials.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 107

Spring

trends BY TEAL DRUDA

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AH YES, THE PROMISE OF WARMER DAYS, spring showers and lovely flowers. Spring is a time for cleaning and clearing, planning and organizing, creating the space for a great year ahead. A good foundation and careful preparation are both key—both in our lives and our beauty routine. For my spring makeup trends report, the best place to start is the skin. Not only is clean, luminous, dewy and radiant skin a huge spring trend, skin care is what Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa magazine is all about. My philosophy is always that less is more; however, many people don’t have perfect skin and need a bit more coverage. Here are a few tips that will help you create that perfect base to build on for the fun spring looks I’ll be sharing with you: • Moisturize well. Even oily skin needs proper moisture in order for any base or concealer to go on smoothly and flawlessly. • Primer. Primer helps even out pores and smooth any texture from scarring or fine lines. • Concealer. Use a lighter shade around the eyes, in the nasal labial folds and areas such as the bottom outside corners of the mouth and crease under the bottom lip; this will help brighten any shadows. Try a shade with a little more yellow and less pink undertones for blemishes to minimize the redness. Blend by tapping with your ring finger. • Foundation. Use this only if all over coverage is absolutely needed. Find a shade that is not too different from the skin on your client’s neck, and be sure to blend well along the jawline and edges of the face. Sometimes, it is better to just apply in the center of the face and blend out. Foundations vary from brand to brand and product to product; get samples and try one for a week before committing. You can mix with a little moisturizer to lighten the coverage and keep it from looking too cakey. Dust with a sheer powder to set and mist with rose water or something similar to keep it from being too matte. • Cheek color. Whether you prefer a cream, stain or powder, using a warm peachy or pink blush will create an instantly healthy appearance. Although many spring 2013 runways

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

image

showed off looks that used very little blush, it keeps your clients looking healthy and fresh in the everyday world. • Lips. A simple tinted lip balm or sheer gloss with a touch of color will make the lips feel good. Finish off that fresh and youthful look without getting overly glam. Now for the fun part! This season, runways showed a lot of inspiration from 1960s and 1980s pop art. Think Keith Haring and Andy Warhol. Super fun, daring and bold use of color was everywhere, and everyone’s doing it, so go ahead and play! I’d like to think that these looks are for everyone, but I know they can be a bit intimidating. If your clients want to be daring and mix it up, these looks are for them! Mica, platinum, quartz, golds and vermeils showed themselves in a mélange of metallics this season, and not just with clothing and accessories. Many of the makeup lines were exploding with shimmery versions of moss, pink, gunmetal silver, coppers and gold as well. Spring 2013 makeup was a little bit of 1960s glamour, a bit of rock n’ roll and a lot of geometric inspiration, which included lots of metallics and color! Rich red and fuchsia lips were popular with Rochas, Anna Sui, Jason Wu, Prada, Burberry, Naeem Khan, No. 21 and many other designers this season. A great sexy everyday look for matte red lips is to pair it with a sweep of subtle gold on the eyes (or with the classic clean eye), layer on a thick coat of lengthening mascara and dust on a rosy cheek. To make the color last longer, use a poppy or cherry colored liner to outline and fill in the lips before adding the lipstick; blot well once and reapply. Be sure your clients blot the inside of their lips so as not to walk around with lipstick on their teeth! Metallic eyes were a really popular trend, from platinum at Chanel to copper at Chloé. Begin with a cream base shadow on the lid all the way to the brow to get the best wear from metallic eye shadow or pigment. With a small angle brush, tap the pigment/shadow along the lash line, go back and press the metallic color just on the lid, bringing it out in the corners a bit to create a continues primer

March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

concealer

blush

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 109

image|??????

SWEEP BLUE EYE SHADOW OVER THE LID AND WING IT OUT SLIGHTLY—OR SIMPLY USE A BLUE OR GREEN LINER.

“wing.” You can stop there, or you can add black liner and/ or a different metallic color of your choice in the crease. A soft golden pink is nice to give a warm ombre look. Either way, a peach blush on the apples of your cheeks with a nude gloss is a perfect combination. A few other designers who went all out with metallic makeup this season were Marc Jacobs, Derek Lam, Versace and Louis Vuitton. Moody blues (and greens) appeared everywhere for spring! Blue is here in a big way! It can be challenging to pull off, but the result is gorgeous! From sheer to bold, pale to deep; shades of sky blue, azure, aqua, indigo, cyan, turquoise, green, teal and cornflower blue are all the rage, and here is a great way to pull it off: Sweep blue eye shadow over the lid and wing it out slightly—or simply use a blue or green liner. You can make it thin, thick, blended out, or—think 1960s—add a black graphic cat eye style liner close to the lashes, so the fun color still shows. You can also put the black liner on first, add the blue shadow to the lid and smudge the liner out to where the two meet for a less dramatic version. Try a little under the bottom lashes for fun and see how it works! Stay neutral or rosy with the lips to keep the focus on the eyes, but use a plum blush to contrast with the cool color on the eyes. Monique Lhuillier, Joy Cioci, Georgio Armani, Vivienne Westwood, Versus, Just Cavalli, Kate Spade, Anna Sui, Michael Kors, Altuzarra, Peter Som and Stella McCarthey were all feeling those blue hues this spring. Page 110 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Garden party? Of course! It is spring after all! Amorous feminine inspired makeup creations showed up with stunning fashions from Bottega Veneta, Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, Moschino and Zac Posen, all of whom featured petal pink eye shadows, pink hued lips or dreamy flushed cheeks— très romantic! It whispers secret rendezvous down a hidden garden path bursting with blooms. With this look you can use a pink (iridescent is in) shadow all over your lid and into the crease, blending up and out so there is a soft transition into a highlighting shimmer under the brows. This look works both with or without liner, but be sure to plump up upper and lower lashes with a good thickening mascara to make the eyes really stand out. A sheer rose gloss on the lips and cherry blossom pink rouge complete this soft, enchanting look. Now that you are ready to head into the year with these great spring makeup looks, your clients are ready to enjoy the romantic rendezvous’ that are sure to follow! Take time out to experiment with these ideas and see what looks are the best for each of your clients! n “Beauty is not based on how attractive we are to everybody else, but how attractive we are to ourselves, for one cannot think other people think they are full of beauty unless they know they are beautiful too.” -Anonymous Makeup by Teal Druda Photography by Angela Marklew Teal Druda is an industry veteran who has been a practicing makeup artist for more than 15 years. Her work has been featured in fashion magazines and music videos. Druda also shares her artistry with clients such as Marie Claire, ABC and Relativity Media. She resides in Los Angeles, CA. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

by Melissa Picoli

image|beyond lavender manicures, pedicures and essential oils PEEP TOE SHOES AND SUMMERY dresses beg for polished feet and pretty nails. Spring and summer’s increase in nail services is an opportunity to build year-round clientele. Go beyond guests’ expectations and you will earn loyalty, the golden ticket of any spa/ salon’s success. Professional beauty treatments should always be one part instant gratification, and a few parts long-term benefit. For manicures and pedicures, this means combining perfectly shaped nails, smooth heels, ambient experience and anti-aging benefits. Essential oils allow a spa to accomplish both: a gorgeous aromatic experience and enhanced skin and nail health.

photo: Robert Wolkanieca/Shutterstock.com

Why essential oils? The botanical guide Herbal Vade Mecum defines essential oils as the volatile odoriferous oils of vegetable origin that give plants their characteristic odors and therapeutic properties, obtained from various parts of the plants (such as flowers, leaves or bark) by steam distillation, expression or extraction. In translation, they’re the little bits of molecular magic, the fairy dust of botanicals and an essential aspect of the beauty industry. Essential oils provide both cellular and physiological benefits, intrinsic to skin health. Topically, essential oils interact with the cellular structure to feed, nourish and stimulate natural healing processes and slow down natural degeneration. Inhaled, essential oil molecules March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

stimulate the olfactory nerve, sending messages to the brain’s limbic system, which is the root of memory, learning and emotional response. The instant gratification piece is a lovely aromatic experience. The long-term benefit is the cellular enhancement of the skin and nails (client’s benefit) and the increase in client satisfaction (salon benefit).

Manicure/pedicure protocols Add essential oils directly to existing products during use. Choose a couple essential oils that match aromatic characteristics of the existing products and distribute amongst work stations. Add to massage lotions and soak water as needed. Create customized blends based on general skin and nail care needs, and use within standard treatment protocols. This is cost-effective and a great way to create a signature treatment. It takes extra time up front—usually less than an hour a month—but is well worth the extra trouble. Build a nail care apothecary. This gives therapists a chance to use creativity and their own preferences, and gives your client the experience of having something customized to their skin. Use the “Essential 7” guide (page 112) as a starting point, and look through the skin care recipes for ideas. Therapists must be conscientious of cost for this method to avoid waste, but it is an exquisite presentation for the client.

The recipes The recipes featured in this article are designed to accomodate an esthetician’s skin care mentality, ease of use for a nail technician and a spa manager’s attention to cost—all while still achieving that “wow” factor for a client. Use them as starting points, and then create your own! Sanitizing soak water: Anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, oxygenating, sanitizing and refreshing. It prepares the client’s skin for further treatment, and calms harried minds. Prepare a larger batch monthly. 1/2 gallon distilled water 1/2 gallon witch hazel 20 drops oregano essential oil 20 drops tea tree essential oil 20 drops lemon Balm essential oil 20 drops myrrh essential oil Mix water and witch hazel in a one gallon container. Add essential oils. Shake well. Adjust slightly as needed, but allow the scent to be strong, since it will be diluted during treatment. Divide mixture amongst glass containers for each work station. When setting up for the manicure, add water to soak with two full droppers in each bowl. For pedicures, add five droppers to the foot bowl. If the client has nail fungus issues, apply directly to affected area and water. Increase soak time. Massage/finishing lotion: This is an esthetician’s secret, worthy of finding it’s way into nail services. Use it for massage, dilute with your current finishcontinues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 111

image|beyond lavender their hand with existing products. The carrier base can be used for all spa treatments, including facials and massage.

Skin care recipes Antioxidant blend Good for all skin conditions and cost effective 10 drops lemongrass oil 5 drops geranium oil 5 drops Black pepper oil 5 drops carrot seed oil 5 drops sandalwood oil Anti-aging + brittle nails The professional woman’s manicure 5 drops carrot seed oil 5 drops ylang-ylang oil 5 drops neroli or rose oil 5 drops frankincense 5 drops Black pepper oil 5 drops myrrh 5 drops tulsi

Essential 7 Skin + Nail Loving Essential Oils 1. Ylang ylang: Potent antioxidant, proven cell proliferation, disinfectant. Smells like tropics at sunset. 2. Frankincense: Supports healthy collagen, heals skin irritations. Considered sacred. 3. Black pepper: Decreases toxins and improves arthritic conditions and circulation, giving it anti-varicose vein properties. Best when strongly diluted. 4. Melissa officianalis (lemon balm): Potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and calming oil. 5. Australian sandalwood: Grounding and moisturizing. Can help heal cracked or dry skin. Indian sandalwood is an ecologically irresponsible choice. Australian sandalwood has all the same properties with a slightly different aroma. Very sustainable. 6. Carrot seed oil: Helps heal or prevent most common skin concerns such as premature aging, acne, rashes and psoriasis. Supports cell proliferation. Contains high amounts of vitamin A, making it a natural substitute for Retin-A. The strong scent blends best when combined with a wood based oil. 7. Rose otto: So expensive, but so gorgeous. One of the most ancient anti-aging essential oils. Similar benefits can be achieved with rosehip seed oil as a carrier, but the scent of rose otto is worthy of an expensive love affair.

Page 112 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Anti-fungal + oxygenating Great for pedicures and diabetics 10 drops lemon Balm 10 drops myrrh 15 drops oregano 10 drops rosemary Antioxidant spritz: Finishing a manicure/pedicure with an essential oil spritz is an inexpensive way to add extra poshness and care. This recipe is highly antioxidant, sun-shielding and aromatically pleasing to most. It supports deeper penetration of any finishing lotion you prefer, and further protects the skin as your client goes on with their day. 1 gallon distilled water 1 taBlespoon vegetaBle glycerin oil (optional) 20 drops lemon grass oil 15 drops tulsi (holy Basil) essential oil 15 drops sandalwood oil 10 drops geranium oil Blend well, and divide amongst glass or aluminum spritzer bottles. Spritz skin as needed.

A final note Citrus oils are adored by most, but they can be highly photosensitizing. There have been controversial links to hyperpigmentation and skin cancers. Avoid use during sunlight hours, and dilute accordingly. All essential oils can cause skin irritations if used without dilution. Some may smell lovely, but all are technically highly concentrated and therapeutic. As with all therapeutics, use with caution and respect. n

Melissa Picoli is the founder of BijaBody health+beauty, a line of antiaging body care and beauty tea blends. She has more than a decade of experience in the beauty industry as an esthetician, product developer, speaker, blogger and consultant. For more information, visit www.BijaBody.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Layland Masuda/Shutterstock.com

ing product to reduce treatment costs, add it to soak water to soften skin, blend with various mask bases for specialized treatments, or use it on it’s own as a massage/finishing lotion. The carrier oil base provides anti-aging benefits, proper slip for massage and non-greasy absorption. Leave unscented and use as needed, or prepare batches of specific recipes ahead of time. The carrier blend works in all spa/salon treatments. Anti-aging, nutritive carrier base: 10 oz apricot seed or jojoBa oil 2 oz part rosehip seed oil 2 oz pumpkin seed oil 1 oz rice Bran oil Blend carrier base in 16 oz glass bottles with screw caps. Add skin specific essential oils. Shake well and distribute between several four to six ounce glass or aluminum bottles with pumps for ease of use during treatments. Therapists can use it alone or blend it in the palm of

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #322

BY SUSAN POSNICK

FRESH SPRING FORWARD step by step makeover When I think of spring makeup, I think of fresh makeup with a bit of color, like the flowers we see blooming at the end of winter. Follow this simple step by step with our model Mina to create a pretty, fresh face for spring! 4

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fin

k o o l al

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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face 1. This photo of Mina is taken before her makeover begins. 2. I apply a medium beige self dispensing brushon foundation. This provides sun protection, offers light to opaque coverage, allows the skin to breathe and is easy to apply. To ensure I select the correct shade for Mina, I dust her jawline to make sure it matches her neck. Then I apply it to her entire face, including her eyelids (to use as an eyeshadow base).

1 . be f o r e

st ep 2

s te p 3

s te p 4

s te p 5

s te p 7 a

3. I apply the corrector/highlighter pencil under the eye. Using the highlighting side in a V-shape under the eye to highlight the top of the cheekbone, I lift the outside corner of the eye and keep the undereye bright and clean. Adding a little highlighter just under and above the arch of the brow opens the eye as well. 4. By taking the highlighting pencil down the center of Mina’s nose, I make her nose look slightly more narrow. This simple step effectively creates a subtle illusion. 5. By sliding the sleeve of the brush halfway up, I am able to be more precise in my application, setting the pencil under the eye.

step by step photos courtesy of Susan Posnick; background images: Shutterstock.com

6. By using a bronzer, I am able to softly warm up Mina’s skin color and shape her face, making her cheekbones stronger, narrowing the nose a bit more and shading her forehead. 7a and 7b. Adding the color of Camelia to Mina’s cheeks and eyelids immediately brings color to her face, giving her a more “approachable” appearance.

eyes 1. I brush a taupe shadow into Mina’s brows to fill them in slightly and perfect their shape. 2. Using the sponge applicator attached to the gold side of the platinum/gold pencil, I evenly apply it as a base color to the entire lid to add soft dimension. continues

March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

st ep 7 b

e y es s te

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 115

image|fresh spring forward 3. I add the same gold under the bottom lashes to brighten the undereye as well. 4. For more definition close to the lash line, I add bronze eye pencil to the lid. 5a and 5b. I again use the bronze liner as a shadow to define the crease of Mina’s eye, and to add emphasis to the outside third of the eye. Then I blend it with my fingertip.

e y es s te p

e ye s st ep 4

6. I apply a copper eyeshadow under Mina’s bottom lashes to softly emphasize the eyes. 7. I finish the eye with mascara—a few coats on the upper lashes and just a touch on the bottom lashes, focusing on the outer lashes.

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final lo

1. Using a nude colored lip pencil, I frame Mina’s lips for definition, and fill them in with the pencil to provide a base for the lipstick color for even longer lasting wear. 2. I choose a soft coral lipstick color for Mina’s lips, giving them just a hint of spring color and shine. Finally, I dust some shimmer at the top of her cheekbone for a hint of added glow. Spring is the perfect time to experiment and use the colors of nature as a palette for your clients’ makeup. No matter what look you choose to do, opt for a fresh, natural face with hints of spring color. n

Susan Posnick is the founder and president of Susan Posnick Cosmetics. The seasoned professional makeup artist has worked with many models and celebrities in the film and fashion industries. Posnick is also a very active philanthropist. She works with Turtle Creek Recovery Center, a facility dedicated to serving men and women struggling with addiction. Posnick is also a mentor for Women That Soar, a media platform for women who are entrepreneurs. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

by Katie Saxton

spring season | image nail artistry

photo: Andrey Armyagov/Shutterstock.com; nail designs by Katie Saxton

THE SPRING SEASON IS A BUSTLING time full of blooming flowers, fresh fashions and some serious spring cleaning. Women everywhere spend hours reorganizing their living spaces, cars and offices, but the spring cleaning should not stop there. It is also time to jazz up wardrobes and nail styles! Once this winter comes to an end, it will be time to say good-bye to the once-beloved sideways French manis and the light grey nails that were trendy throughout the winter season. This may sadden some fans of these nail trends, but there is no need to fret over how to style your clients’ nails for the 2013 spring season. An array of new nail designs will be hitting the streets and runways! There are many fun ways to style nails this spring. Try out any of the nail trends below to complete your clients’ seasonal looks. Pale nails Nails coated with neutral or pale pink polish will be all the rage this spring. Applying a subtle hue to nails makes a chic, classy statement. To complete the look, advise them to pair pale nails with a billowy white top and their favorite jeans. Dark nails Choosing a dark navy, charcoal or black hue for nails will be a major trend of the season. It is a daring style that shows off one’s bold and adventurous side. March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Matching lipstick and polish This spring, matching one’s nail polish to their lipstick is all the rage. If you have clients who love wearing red lipstick, make sure to coat their nails with polish in the same red hue. This color coordination works for all lipsticks and polishes, especially those in hues like mauve, pink, champagne, neutral and burgundy. Glittered t i p s Who doesn’t love glitter? Paint nails with a clear polish and add a swipe of sparkly glitter polish to the tips, then add one more coat of clear topcoat. You can also add little designs next to the glitter tips for an extra bit of fun. Real gold topcoats Adding a real goldinfused topcoat to a manicure of any color will ensure that your clients’ nails are ready to turn heads wherever they go. Although you will probably charge more for this style than a typical clear topcoat, the gold flake topcoat exudes elegance and glamour and is well worth the price. Going orange This spring season, transform your clients into to tal showstoppers by painting their nails with vibrant orange polish. Choose a hue like tangerine or orangered; they will steal the spotlight!

Pastels When we think of spring, blooming flowers with pastel pink, lavender purple, baby blue and mellow yellow petals come to mind. Painting nails one of these light and sweet colors is a great way to celebrate springtime. These nail colors look great with dainty spring dresses and light blouses. Diagonal vibrant tips The “pop of color” trend made a huge appearance last spring, with neon yellow, electric orange and vibrant pink nails popping up on the hands of lovely ladies everywhere. This “pop of color” nail style is back with a whole new look. Rather than paint entire nails one bright and lively color, take a piece of tape and stick it diagonally across the tips of your clients’ nails. Paint the tips an effervescent orange or neon green, and take the tape off while the polish is still wet. Add a clear topcoat to each nail and let them dry. The tips of each nail will feature a flashy and fun diagonal “pop of color” that will capture the eyes and attention of passersby wherever they go. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 117

image|spring season nail artistry

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The fashions of the 1980s consistently make their way back in style every couple of years. Decorating nails with a theme from this decade will be a major trend in the 2013 spring season.

Metallic accents Metallic polishes were a favorite this past winter, and nail designs featuring stripes of gold, silver or bright copper against a colorful background are sure to be a hit in the springtime. This style is a subtle way to show off a fun and outgoing personality. Edgy nails If you channel surf on the television these days, you are likely to come across a thrilling show about zombies or vampires. These pop culture phenomena are not just limited to television shows … nails featuring dark and daring themes will also be very popular in the spring of 2013. Think “bloody” tips, suspenseful shadowy tips, dangerous jagged tips and creepy dripping nails. Decorating your clients’ nails with chancy and daunting nail designs shows them that you are not afraid to take a walk on the wild and dangerous side. 1980s nails The fashions of the 1980s consistently make their way back in style every couple of years. Decorating nails with a theme from this decade will be a major trend in the 2013 spring season. Paint nails a deep blue, orange or red, and add a stripe of glossy black from the center of the nail tip to the middle of the nail. Add a clear topcoat, and your nails are ready for a 1980s theme party or a big hair band concert! Try out any of these nail styles to ensure that your nails are ready to impress throughout the 2013 spring season. n

Katie Saxton is the founder of Custom Nail Solutions. She is a renowned blogger and a regular contributor to television, radio, print and online media on topics of nail beauty, nail care and nail trends. Custom Nail Solutions is a revolutionary artificial nail product offering custom nails that fit each individual’s unique nail beds. They are reusable, chemical-free and guaranteed to last a lifetime. Find out more at www.CustomNailSolutions.com. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

Page 118 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

by Barbara Marzulli

image| RECENTLY, ONE OF MY REGULAR spa guests came in for a visit with her two young daughters. It was an especially difficult visit, because the girls had just experienced the loss of their father. You could especially notice the despair and heartbreak in the 14 year old’s face and countenance. The younger daughter was

more than a manicure

cheeks. The nail technician did not rush the hand treatment, but instead continued with long rhythmic strokes, allowing relaxation and comfort to settle into the young woman’s soul. While we realize that we didn’t remove the pain of the loss to our young clients on that day, we were reminded of the importance of the

photo: Pressmaster/Shutterstock.com

Offering hand treatments that focus on the meridian points on each individual finger enhance the therapeutic value of the service.

10, and while she was quite talkative and brave, she was still clearly emotional. A few other guests in the spa who knew the family were looking at the girls, and appeared to be concerned. We quickly and quietly began the manicures for the young ladies. For the first 15 minutes, the nail technician communicated with the older daughter by taking cues from her body language and letting her lead the conversation. As spa professionals, we need to show empathy during such times when our clients are grieving. Our guests may sometimes share their heartbreak, which is an opportunity for us to offer compassion and a sympathetic ear. But many clients do not open up, and instead choose to simply embrace the serenity that a spa offers. The power of our touch alone is so instrumental and therapeutic. As the manicure continued, the color started to return to the older daughter’s March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

services and treatments we offer. The hands and feet have more meridian points than any other parts of the body. However offering hand treatments that focus on the meridian points on each individual finger enhance the therapeutic value of the service.

Index finger The energy meridians along the index fingers can be stimulated in order to enhance or relieve stomach issues such as cramping, aches and pain.

Middle finger The meridian of the middle finger is called the heart constrictor, and is located on the outer edge of the finger, on the side closest to the pinky. This energy meridian is used to help relieve thoracic symptoms, such as rib cage pain or straining of the muscles in the upper and mid-back, and in all parts of the body.

Ring finger The ring finger is said to be the area that disharmonic energy passes through, which may relate to abdominal distention and issues with the ear, nose and throat.

Pinky The pinky rules the small intestine and heart meridian. Look at the back of your hand and take note of the following. The small intestine is along the outside of the finger, beginning at approximately the bed of the nail. The heart is along the inner edge. Working this area of meridian points may help improve issues with anxiety and numbness following a traumatic experience or depression. The next time you want to rush through the massage portion of the manicure, remember that while you may not always know what your client is going through, their body does and it will respond to touch. A manicure can be just as therapeutic and healing for your clients as any other spa service. n

Barbara Marzulli has been a licensed esthetician for 26 years. She has worked as a beauty advisor, makeup artist, lead esthetician, a skin care educator at Florida College of Natural Health and a skin care program director at American Institute. In 2005, Marzulli and her daughter founded The Sanctuary Spa at Tradition in Port St. Lucie, FL. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 119

photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

image

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

with manicures and pedicures

KEEPING IT

fresh BY KAREN HODGES

March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

A NEW AWARENESS OF OUR NATURAL RESOURCES and the goal of a sustainable lifestyle are influencing the choices many of today’s clients make when booking beauty services. Here are some ideas that can help you entice this conscientious market segment into your spa! The meaning of the word “organic” has often been debated. For the purposes of this article, organic refers to products that are produced without the addition of synthetic (man-made) additives such as pesticides, growth hormones or fertilizers. With this definition in mind, countless labels tout the organic nature of their ingredients, and many clients are drawn to the healthy idea behind these products. If a manicurist takes it one step further by investigating the source of this type of ingredient, she can easily come up with her own recipes for scrumptious treatments. Here are some natural ingredients that can be easily incorporated into organic-based manicures and pedicures. • Honey: One of nature’s nearly perfect foods, naturally antiseptic and a humectant. Raw, unpasteurized, locally harvested honey provides the best benefits. • Salt: One of the basic elements of our bodies, it is compatible with our skin. It is antibacterial and astringent. Mineral salts add another component to treatments. • Sugar: Often used to promote healing. The uniformity of sugar crystals makes it an ideal sting-free scrub. Although a better choice, unbleached raw sugar may be too coarse for thin or sensitive skin. • Oatmeal: Organically grown whole grain oats can be whisked in a food processor to produce an excellent exfoliating ingredient. • Avocado: One of many fruits that add antioxidants, vitamins and high-grade “good” oils to masks or scrubs. The oil obtained from the inside of the peel is an excellent moisture component. • Mango: High in antioxidants. The enzymes act like tiny “pac men,” gobbling away dead, dry skin. Use fruit that is greener rather than riper for more vitality. • Milk: Whole milk contains lactic acid, vitamin E and zinc, which all work to brighten skin and add elasticity. Check the label to avoid recombinant bovine growth hormone (rBGH) in the milk. • Apples: Make a great mask component (run them through a food processor) that contains malic acid and AHA, which tightens skin. • Bananas: Add mashed banana to masks and scrubs. It contains vitamins, excellent oils and tryptophan (an amino acid), all of which are great for the skin. continues

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 121

THERE HAS BEEN A MOVEMENT AWAY FROM “SOAKING” MANICURE AND PEDICURE TREATMENTS. MASKS AND SCRUBS HAVE BECOME MUCH MORE PROMINENT IN LUXURIOUS MANICURE SERVICES.

An organic protocol In recent years, there has been a movement away from “soaking” manicure and pedicure treatments. The practice has changed due to the belief that polish lasts much longer when applied to nails that have not been saturated with water. This means that masks and scrubs have become much more prominent in luxurious manicure services. Changing the usual order of the service will allow the mask time to work while you are detailing the nails. 1. Begin with a consultation, and while determining the level of service desired, ask very specific questions about your client’s health and any potential allergies. Be sure to ask the question of allergies more than once, and name the specific fruits, nuts or other ingredients you plan to use. Anaphylactic shock is no light matter. 2. Wash the hands or feet—do this with a hand cloth, soaked with water infused with citrus oil. Twist a couple strips of citrus peel over a small bowl of warm water. For feet, you can use a spray bottle of warm water and citrus oil if you prefer; adding salt is also an option. 3. Perform callus reduction with a single-use foot buffer (for feet only). 4. Perform a scrub using organic ingredients (a good combination is honey, sugar and a bit of almond oil). Rinse in a basin by pouring warm water over their hands or feet. Page 122 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Karen Hodges is a licensed esthetician and manicurist with more than 15 years of experience. She is a freelance writer, and has spoken around the globe as an industry educator and public speaker. Hodges does consulting and training in salons as well as on a one-on-one basis with individuals. Arrangements for classes, speaking engagements, web-based or personal training can be made by contacting her at keyzkaren@bellsouth.net. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

photo: Sergey Nivens/Shutterstock.com

• Cucumbers: Their high level of ascorbic acid and vitamin K are anti-inflammatory and healing to the skin. Avoid getting them in the eyes. • Nuts: These can be processed to a smooth butter and added to masks, or left with a tiny bit of grittiness for scrubs. The skin softening qualities of nut oils are well documented. Of course, make sure to confirm that your client is not allergic to nuts or any ingredient mentioned above before using. The list is nearly endless. Create your own apothecary for manicures and pedicures. If something is good to put in the body, it most likely would be good when put on the body as well! If you do not want to offer “fresh” organic ingredients within treatments, there are plenty of all natural companies that have themed masks and moisturizers.

5. Apply your specialty mask over the back of the hand or all over the foot, except for the toes. If the person has age spots, for example, a mask made of oatmeal flour, egg whites and a few drops of lemon juice will help brighten and even skin tone. 6. Remove polish and perform the manicure: trim or file nails to shape. Apply cuticle treatment and gently push back cuticles. Nip away only “flagged” bits of skin. 7. Remove the mask with the basin or with warm, wet cloths. 8. Perform massage with your favorite emollient. Either blend your own or find good creams/butters that contain botanical ingredients. Make sure there are no dyes or perfumes—two of the most notorious allergens. 9. Applying heat at this point with hot booties, mittens or warm towels will allow the client’s skin to absorb all the moisture it can. 10. Cleanse the nails with a nail cleanser if you need to remove any nail polish. Use a non-toxic nail polish remover and continue with the nail service of choice: polish, a clear nail treatment or a high-shine buff. This basic protocol allows you, the “organically savvy” technician, to custom blend the various components to provide the ultimate service. Keep these cautions in mind: • Buy small amounts of fresh products. • Mix only small amounts. • Do not keep anything that is no longer fresh. • Keep a sharp eye out for allergic reactions—immediately flush skin with clear water if any pinkness, itching, burning or other reactions occur. Be sure you market this level of luxury to your clients and set your prices accordingly; there are clients who seek this level of pampering and are willing to pay for the privilege. n

MANICURE MAKEOVER Renowned manicurist Julie Kandalec made history on January 17 as the first manicurist to ever appear on TLC’s What Not to Wear. “I appreciated the opportunity to show America that nails are just as important as hair and makeup,” Julie says. “This is a big deal for the nail and beauty industry.” www.juliekandalec.com

Help your clients restore their soft, supple lips with the Baume Lèvres Confort from Guinot. Avocado extract and vitamin F glycerides provide protection and fight dryness, while shea butter, sunflower oil, allantoin and vitamin E instantly relieve and nourish fragile lips. www.guinotusa.com 212.532.1030

BOOMING BUSINESS The explosive growth in sales of professional nail care products outshined the resilient but modest growth rates in other cosmetics categories, posting a global increase of more than 25 percent in 2012, according to Kline’s exclusive “Professional Nail Care: Global Market Brief.” The report closely examines the latest products, key trends and emerging technologies triggering growth on the professional nail care scene. Compared to other beauty treatments, these services remain affordable indulgences, which is driving greater consumer demand. www.KlineGroup.com

March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

PRETTY PERFECTION Designed to prevent, interrupt and correct today’s most troublesome skin concerns, Pür Mineral’s enhanced 4-in-1 Mineral Makeup Powder smoothes away the appearance of fine lines, combats visible discoloration and encourages a brighter, even-toned complexion. The encapsulated ingredients in the formula provide anti-aging, antiinflammation and brightening benefits while stimulating collagen and cell turnover. www.purminerals.com 866.787.0022

IMAGENEWS

LIP SAVER

MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 123

WEST | CENTRAL | EAST

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

West MARCH (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Distance learning available. Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424. Page 124 • www.LNEONLINE.com

HydroPeptide Product Training Seminar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 10 a.m. PST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.

MARCH 3 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 4 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 10 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 11 Get Your Kit On! Successful Retailing of btCeuticals (Webinar) by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 11 a.m. P.S.T. 800.976.2544. continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 12 Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

MARCH 24 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 13 Bio-Brasion Wet/Dry Microdermabrasion System Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

MARCH 25

MARCH 14

APRIL 7

Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 15 Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 8 MARCH 17 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 126 • www.LNEONLINE.com

APRIL 16 Bio-Ultimate Platinum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

APRIL 17 Bt-Accent LED by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

APRIL 18 Bt-Brasion Wet/Dry Microdermabrasion by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

APRIL 19 Bio-Synthesis by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

APRIL 14 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fresno, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 18 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN.

by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Bt-GEAR, Mobile Services Webinar by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 11 a.m. P.S.T. 800.976.2544. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fresno, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 15 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

APRIL 21 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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APRIL 22 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 28 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 12 p.m. C.S.T. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.E

MARCH 25

MARCH 3-4

APRIL 7

2 Day Advanced Professional Skincare Education Course by Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Dallas, TX. 325.668.0420.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 8

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 17-18

APRIL 10

2 Day Advanced Professional Skincare Education Course by Circadia by Dr. Pugliese. Tulsa, OK. 918.760.5896.

HydroPeptide Regional Training by HydroPeptide. Chicago, IL. 800.932.9873. Ext. 116

Central

MARCH 24

MARCH 17

APRIL 29

MARCH (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150. March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

MARCH 18 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 14 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Springfield, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 15 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 127

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Springfield, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 21 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 22 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 29 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

East MARCH (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels With Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Page 128 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.

MARCH 3 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Dayton, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 4 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dayton, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 10 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Richmond, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 11 Anti-Aging Skin Solutions: The World Famous Repêchage Four Layer Facial: 3 Different Ways - Master the Best Treatment in the World! (1-Day Academy) by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Richmond, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

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Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 8

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 18

APRIL 9

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

HydroPeptide Regional Training by HydroPeptide. Miami, FL. 800.932.9873. Ext. 116

MARCH 18-20

APRIL 21

Become an Esthetic Superstar! Skin Science From the Lab. Facial Massage & Anti-Aging Treatments Master Class With Lydia Sarfati (3-Day Academy) by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Grand Rapids, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MARCH 25

APRIL 22

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Grand Rapids, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN. The Non-Surgical Face LiftRepêchage® Vita Cura® 5 Phase Firming Facial (1-Day Academy) by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

MARCH 17

APRIL 7 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 28 APRIL 7-8 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines. Miami Beach, FL. 800.471.0229.

March 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

National Esthetic Teacher Training Sponsored by NCEA

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) April 6, 2013 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) May 4, 2013 • Dallas, TX 1.800.471.0229 Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) September 28, 2013 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) October 26, 2013 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2013 April 7-8 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2013 May 5-6 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Miami, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013 September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229

APRIL 29

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Miami, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 129

advertisers’ index Page Number

Reader Service No.

5................ A Natural Difference ................................................ www.anaturaldifference.com ......................................... 232 71.............. AC Distribution/Domina......................................... www.dominaskincare.com ............................................. 177 76.............. Allied Health Association ....................................... www.alliedhealth.net ..................................................... 209 48.............. Athena Beauty Inc .................................................. www.athenabeauty.com ................................................ 162 2-3 ............ Aveda ..................................................................... www.aveda.com ............................................................ 130 8................ Beautiful Image ...................................................... www.beautifulimagellc.com .......................................... 183 77.............. Bella Schneider Beauty .......................................... www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com .................................... 180 96.............. Bellaire Industry ..................................................... www.bellaireindustry.com.............................................. 189 44,75......... Bio-Therapeutic ..................................................... www.bio-therapeutic.com ............................................. 139 105............ Bioslimming ........................................................... www.bioslimming.com .................................................. 335 100............ Brushes by Karen ................................................... www.brushesbykaren.com ............................................. 104 88,89......... Christine Schrammek ............................................. www.greenpeelusa.com ................................................ 166 37.............. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese ......................................... www.circadia.com ......................................................... 101 47.............. Control Corrective.................................................. www.controlcorrective.com ........................................... 272 101............ Cosmétiques France Laure..................................... www.francelaure.com .................................................... 199 132............ Darphin .................................................................. www.darphin.com ......................................................... 159 103............ DermaSwiss ............................................................ www.dermaswiss.com ................................................... 245 95.............. DermAware ............................................................ www.dermaware.com .................................................... 256 41.............. Dr. Grandel............................................................. www.grandel-usa.com ................................................... 109 118............ Dr. Jeff .................................................................... www.dr-jeff.com ............................................................ 248 11.............. Edge Systems .......................................................... www.HydraFacial.com ................................................... 201 14-15..........Éminence Organic Skin Care ................................. www.eminenceorganics.com........................................... 157 131............ Equipro .................................................................. www.equipro-bty.com ..................................................... 242 63.............. GrandeLash MD ..................................................... www.grandewholesale.com ............................................ 286 45.............. HairMax .................................................................. www.hairmaxsalons.com ................................................. 285 9................ Hydropeptide......................................................... www.hydropeptide.com.................................................. 278 32-33 ........ International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, The ....... dallas.skincareshows.com .................................................. 7................ Kneipp ..........................................................................www.kneipp.com ........................................................... 324 13.............. Lady Burd .....................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 119 113............ Lôngmi Lashes.............................................................www.longmilashes.com ................................................. 322 97.............. Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research ...................www.lucrece.com .......................................................... 263 6................ Marinello Schools of Beauty ......................................www.marinello.ca .......................................................... 340 35.............. MEG 21 ........................................................................www.meg21.com .......................................................... 344 31.............. NatraRx/Le Mieux .................................................... www.natrarx.com ........................................................... 294 91.............. Osmosis .................................................................. www.osmosisskincare.com ............................................ 111 79.............. PCA Skin ......................................................................www.pcaskin.com .......................................................... 110 93.............. PFB Vanish ...................................................................www.pfbvanish.com ...................................................... 229 81.............. Phytomer......................................................................www.phytoceane.com ................................................... 176 73.............. Poo-Pourri ....................................................................www.poopourri.com ...................................................... 219 125............ Premiere Shows...........................................................www.premieredayspa.biz .............................................. 194 69.............. Rapidlash .....................................................................www.rapidlash.com ....................................................... 224 85.............. Rejuvi Laboratory ..........................................................www.rejuvilab.com ........................................................ 149 19.............. Satin Smooth ........................................................... www.satinsmooth.com .................................................. 304 17.............. Shira ..............................................................................www.shirausa.com ......................................................... 249 36.............. Sranrom .................................................................. www.sranrom.com ......................................................... 207 67.............. Vitelle ..................................................................... www.vitellelab.com ....................................................... 206 83.............. WishPro/Esthetique Solutions ................................ www.mywishpro.com .................................................... 339

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Page 130 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • March 2013

Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Miami Beach, FL at booths 901, 903, 905, 1000, 1002 and 1004 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #159 on reader service card