LNE & Spa Feb 2021

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals February 2021

$7.50

FROM THE

EDITOR

What better way to embrace new beginnings than by celebrating some of the most amazing technologies and innovations in skincare? February is an exciting time here at LNE & Spa! We’re unveiling our Best of the Best Product Award Winners. Thank you to everyone who voted this year and to all the brands that participated!

This month’s Guide is all about Sanitation. Are you disinfecting your spa equipment properly? Can you ensure that your spa is safe for you and your guests? Implementing a disinfection protocol in your spa is crucial, and our Guide will teach you everything you need to know on how to accomplish that.

Now more than ever, spa professionals and estheticians are looking for ways to minimize touch and exposure to their clients. Touchless facials and body treatments such as Cryofacials and Thai Herbal Poultice are the perfect remedies for these times! See how spas around the country are utilizing touchless technology to their advantage.

I am also very excited to share some amazing esthetician success stories to inspire you. It’s incredible to see small businesses prevail amid difficult times. It shows that no dream or goal is out of reach when you are fueled by authenticity and passion.

Happy February!

Managing Editor

samantha@LNEonline.com 4

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February volume 36 number 2

contents Advertiser Index

14

Editor’s Pick

34

Esthetician Spotlight

42

LNE & Spa Best Products 2021

10 Cryofacial

34

Spa Disinfection

12 Scalp Care 101

36

Treatment Table Sanitation

guide

From the Editor

49

skin

4

34 Sanitation Guide

16

Spa of the Month

52

Thai Herbal Poultice

20

Touchless Technology

56

Lymphatic Drainage Facial

16 Spa of the Month

52 Thai Herbal Poultice

24

Make the Switch

58

26

Behind the Spa Door

28

Beauty Bulletin

30

Business News

32

#esty2esty

24 Make the Switch

image

business

spa

o&w

10 Cryofacial

Eyelash Growth Cycle

58 Eyelash Growth Cycle

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com

Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Sabine Kadyss sabine@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Samantha Garcia samantha@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Director of Conferences & Events Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com

International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Kara McLucas Mark Audrianna Mora Samantha Garcia Tami Blake Sherrie Tennessee

Diana Ralys Selena Belisle Cecily Braden Erin Soletski

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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skin Cryofacial

Cryofacial Glowing skin for your clients in minutes

by Kara McLucas-Mark

Cryotherapy has seen a boom in the recent years. Athletes are seen chilling in giant vats with ghoulish smoke coming off around them on Gatorade commercials, celebrities talking about having -196 F air blown on their face to get that glow we all are chasing, but what exactly is it?

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skin Cryofacial

Cryotherapy has been used for years to remove unsightly lesions on the skin such as warts, keratosis, pigment, etc. The most common cryogen is liquid nitrogen. It is typically applied by using a specialized applicator with the liquid nitrogen in a cartridge that is used for precise treatment. (Think mainly that weird thing on the bottom of your foot or above your eyebrow.)

However, cryofacial machines are a more advanced way to use the liquid nitrogen as well as in a broader area with a less compressed delivery system. The liquid nitrogen is also at a lower temperature to keep it safe for application onto the face. Typically, the trained esthetician holds the blower no less than 6 inches over the face and moves it gently in a back and forth motion. If you watch any videos of the facial being done you will notice that most clients say it just feels like a cool, tingly breeze. It should not be cold enough or close enough to cause any type of frosting reaction.

THE BENEFITS What are the benefits? Why would you get one? To get that GLOW, that is why. Cryo facials create the appearance of tighter pores, a healthy flush, and glowing skin.

Think about being outside for a while on a chilly winter day with a light breeze when you come back inside and have that perfectly rosy look – it’s the same look without all the bundling.

When your skin gets cold, the body has a vasoconstrictive response, your blood vessels tighten, trying to direct the most blood flow to vital organs. This causes a tightening of the skin because of the loss of circulation and helps minimize trans epidermal water loss or TEWL. The adverse happens once the cold stimulus is removed, or you go inside. Your body is then no longer trying to shunt your circulation but allows it to return to your extremities, i.e. your skin. When this happens, the skin begins to plump and have a healthy glow on account of all the red blood cells returning to where they need to go – like one’s cheeks. If your client’s skin

is looking a little lackluster, a cryofacial aka “frotox” may be just what they need.

CONTRAINDICATIONS Now to the side effects and contraindications. Even though it sounds relatively harmless, it is a more advanced type of facial and requires specialty training and proper equipment. Cryo Facials can cause nerve damage, ice burns, frostbite, and pigmentation issues if not done properly. They are not advised for those skin types that are more prone to pigmentation issues such as types IV-VI as well as pregnant clients.

PREPARATION IS KEY Standard preparation for the facial is to avoid heavy exfoliation, retinols, and to be sure the skin is well hydrated. It also good to note that if your client gets injectables, it should be done at least 2 weeks post injection. The results should be immediate, and last up to two weeks. The facial should be spaced out with 3-5 weeks in between to maintain results. The price of this facial can range from $50 to $150, depending on locale and products used.

Cryofacials are on the rise to being one of the ways to achieve naturally brighter and tighter skin. It is tempting to say that they could replace the chemical peel for some clients! With all the rave reviews and praise, if you have the opportunity to bring this facial to your spa it would do nothing more than round out your clients’ experience.

So why not give it a try and just “chill”?

Kara McLucas-Mark is a licensed esthetician with a medical focus. She has worked with multiple modalities including non-ablative lasers, microcurrent, ultrasound skin tightening, and radiofrequency machines.

She lives with her husband and two dogs outside of Annapolis, MD. She loves learning about new skin developments, her LED light, and jade roller!

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skin Scalp Care 101

SCALP CARE 101 The latest trend in skincare

by Audrianna Mora

Soft, strong, healthy hair is something most women (and men!) covet, but many overlook the fact that scalp care is paramount to achieving and maintaining beautiful, luscious locks. Just like the skin, your scalp needs to be cleansed, exfoliated, and hydrated, and overlooking a proper regimen can hinder your hair from looking its best. Here's how to get (and keep) the scalp in peak form to achieve your best hair days, every day.

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skin Scalp Care 101

CLEANSE CORRECTLY

INVEST IN QUALITY

Your hair washing schedule should depend on many things - namely, your scalp's health and your daily activity.

If your scalp is feeling dry, itchy, oily, or just "off", it might be time to reexamine your washing routine. Look for a shampoo containing exfoliating ingredients such as Salicylic Acid or Willow Bark to remove build-up, and nourishing ingredients like Aloe Vera and Panthenol to restore vitality to the scalp.

When it comes to your scalp, skin, and hair, it's essential to look for quality products that feature nourishing, refreshing, and exfoliating ingredients.

Ingredients like sodium laurel sulfates, parabens, and other harsh detergents may make your locks feel squeaky clean but can ultimately be too harsh on your hair - and your scalp. Instead, look for ingredients that will gently exfoliate the scalp (like Salicylic Acid, Willow Bark, or AHA's), provide moisture (like Panthenol, Saw Palmetto and Amino Acids), and add body and shine (like Ginseng and Loquat Leaf).

WASH OFTEN Stretching time between shampoos can be useful for dry strands because it allows natural oils on your scalp to hydrate your hair. However, going too long between washes can be damaging for your scalp, especially if you're loading up on dry shampoo or hairspray.

To keep the scalp balanced, make the most of your "wash days" by giving your scalp and strands a thorough cleaning. Massage shampoo into the scalp for at least 30 seconds, and let it sit on your scalp for another minute before washing out.

HOW TO HELP CLIENTS MAINTAIN SCALP HEALTH

• Create a "washing schedule" to ensure they wash their hair and scalp enough without drying out strands.

• Review the "how-to's" of proper scalp scrubbing, including pressure and duration.

• Identify which products in their regimen may be creating scalp irritation and recommend new ones.

• When in doubt, refer the client to a dermatologist.

Audrianna Mora is the Global Education Manager at RevitaLash Cosmetics.

• Work with them to identify their hair type and any scalp issues they may be experiencing.

EXFOLIATE WEEKLY Build up from oil, sebum, and hair products is one of the most common issues in scalp care, but luckily, it's one of the easiest to fix too! If you suffer from dandruff, eczema, scalp psoriasis, or just a plain old itchy scalp, chances are you're experiencing an accumulation of dead skin cells. Try incorporating a scalp scrub into your routine once a week or once a month, depending on how often you wash your hair.

UTILIZE MASSAGE Massage isn't just for your body. It's for your scalp too! Massage helps increase circulation, bringing oxygenated blood to your scalp and, therefore, more nutrients to the hair follicle. Massage also aids in removing build-up and exfoliating the scalp. Try giving yourself a scalp massage in the shower, or invest in a handy scalp exfoliating tool!

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EDITOR’S PICK OF THE MONTH

Products to LOVE this February!

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Love is in the air with this “madefor-each-other” cherry and chocolate facial duo by Skin Script. skinscriptrx.com

Awaken the Senses Bat Those Lashes Introducing the world’s first lash enhancing mascara formulated with RapidLash Eyelash Enhancing Serum and smooth, fiber-infused primer and mascara.

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Give Attention to the Scalp Cleanse the scalp with exotic botanicals and nourishing oils that pamper stressed, over processed or frizzy hair. Hydra Cleanse is a sulfate-free shampoo for moisturizing and taming hard to manage hair. jyanohaircare.com

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A synergistic blend of the highest quality herbal ingredients including angelica root, goji berry and licorice root, which are known for their anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. goodessentials.com

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spa Spa Of The Month

The Spa at Omni Grove Park Inn Savor the serenity of this perfect Asheville getaway

by Samantha Garcia

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spa Spa Of The Month Experience a Sanctuary of the Senses at The Spa at Omni Grove Park Inn located in Asheville, North Carolina. The 43,000 square foot subterranean spa built into the side of the mountain brings the outdoors in with awe-inspiring natural light, spectacular rock formations, and twenty therapeutic water features. Guests can enjoy the spa’s extraordinary design element while soaking in the restorative mineral pools or experiencing the magical touch of a full-body massage or facial. The art of relaxation is alive and well here at The Spa as the staff gets ready to celebrate its 20th anniversary on February 28, 2021. Ellen McGinnis is taking us behind the spa door to show us why it is consistently voted one of the top resort spas in the world.

SPA OF THE MONTH

BECOME ATTUNED WITH NATURE Ellen Mcginnis attributes the world-class spa’s success to being one of the first large themed spas on the east coast. “We knew that people already were coming to our region for the beautiful surroundings and the healing properties of the mountains, but we wanted to create a unique spa destination that truly was a “Sanctuary of the Senses”.”

The elements of fire, rock, water, and light are prominent throughout the guest tunnels and facilities. Guests can experience over twenty different water features, including mineral-based pools, waterfall pools, and a lap pool blanketed with 6,500 fiber-optic stars and entrancing underwater music, as well as various fireplaces to sit and take in the amazing view.

THE HEAVEN SERIES “Our signature treatments, “The Heaven Series”, were designed to provide the essence of the region, but also provide a spa experience that is not something that they would experience elsewhere. We have tweaked and evolved the treatments over the years, but have remained true to the mission of delivering an authentic, indigenous but world-class treatment.” says McGinnis.

One of the spa’s most popular treatments is the Fire, Rock, Water, and Light body Treatment, which gives guests the experience of an entire day at the spa. It includes a rejuvenating full-body exfoliation, soften-

ing soak, healing body mask, warm stones, and remarkable Vichy waterfall massage.

Guests can achieve the ultimate balance in the spa’s most unusual treatment, the Color and Light Wrap and Aura Imaging treatment. The experience begins and ends with a special aura capturing photograph interpreted by the specially trained therapy.

The Ultimate Facial described as “a cornucopia of a divine pampering experience” is also a guest favorite, including a “decadent combination of specifically selected active ingredients from the depths of the ocean,” says McGinnis. Using the spa’s perfected, exclusive treatment techniques, guests will leave the treatment with a smooth, firmer, and more youthful appearance.

MARKETING “All marketing efforts at The Omni Grove Park Inn are integrated and cross-channel to ensure our message meets the consumer where they already are,” says Spa Director McGinnis. This includes social media, radio/ TV, print publications, and other forms of communication. The spa regularly evaluates these internal and external communication strategies to ensure their efforts are seamless. The spa modifies its marketing mix, messaging, and timelines based on business needs. “Currently, we are fortunate enough to be experiencing high demand for our Spa with treatments booking up to 6-8 weeks out. Therefore, we are not proactively promoting The Spa externally at this time,” she says.

TRAINING The luxurious spa has an extensive training program to ensure superior customer service from its staff. A full-time trainer position was created several years ago to instill high-quality training. Every new staff member will go through a two-day orientation called “Spa 101 & Spa 102.” Each associate receives personalized training materials based on their position. The spa also utilizes digital training videos and presentations, as well as monthly “Moments of Service” reviews to reinforce cultural and service standards.

“We are fortunate to have a group of seasoned spa professionals that will also step in to provide additional training for

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spa Spa Of The Month

specific treatments and we are prepared to reoffer our own CEU approved classes to our service providers,” says McGinnis.

The staff begins each day with a 10-minute meeting that sets the tone for the day and keeps everyone informed. The spa also hosts 30-minute monthly meetings that focus on a company designated service topic.

“This is a time that we can review, share service experience or strategies, and share ideas.” Rather than conducting annual performance reviews, the spa focuses on giving “real-time feedback.”

Spa Director McGinnis explains this as positive recognition through public praise or additional training due to guest feedback.

RETAIL & REVENUE “Our retail selection is a collaboration between our corporate buyers and our property recommendations,” says McGinnis. The world-class spa offers the same products that guests are experiencing on their spa journey, including plush robes, spa slippers, elixirs, teas, 18

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skin care, and body products. It is important to remind guests of the relaxing spa experience at home, too. The spa also selects retail offerings that encourage the guest to recreate their sanctuary and practice self-care at home.

These not only include signature spa products, but neck rolls, eye pillows, diffusers, aromatherapy, journals, gratitude cards, and relaxation wear. When it comes to retail revenue, 45 percent of retail sales are from the spa’s own skincare line. Other product lines include BABOR, Epicuren, and FarmHouse Fresh. Guests are incentivized to purchase these products through gifts with purchase promotions, limited time offers, and seasonal specials. All spa guests receive a 10 percent discount that can only be used on the day of service.

Rundown The Omni Grove Park Inn 290 Macon Avenue Asheville, North Carolina, 28804

Omnihotels.com (800) 438-5800 Opened: February 2001 Spa Director: Ellen McGinnis

Spa Director Spotlight With over 25 years in the wellness and spa industry, Ellen McGinnis is the Director of Spa and Executive Committee Member at The Omni Grove Park Inn. She is a hospitality professional that is passionate about creating innovative spa experiences, building engaged, collaborative teams, producing profitable operational solutions, and supporting the future evolution of Wellness & Spa and 5 Star Service Standards.

“Surround yourself with a diverse team of professionals that are smarter than you are and equally passionate about creating incredible memories!”

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spa Touchless Technology

TOUCHLESS TECHNOLOGY The answer to spa treatments in 2021

by Sherrie Tennessee

The concept of technology in the spa and wellness industry isn’t new. From online booking systems, self-check-in, text confirmations, and thank you messages, automation has become the standard. Today, the concept is pushed even further, thanks to Covid, to contactless/touchless experiences. The wellness industry leader, Global Wellness Institute (GWI), noted the trend and has collaborated with Halotherapy to share a new perception of the concept of “no-touch” experiences.

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spa Touchless Technology

Change and adaptability are constant in the hospitality industry; now is no different. With options including salt caves, thermal lounge experiences, outdoor excursions, online interactions, and self-applied wellness techniques, the format may have changed, but the benefit of wellness practices remains the same. The shift in consumer demand to increased contactless/touchless experiences has forced companies to get creative to meet the requests.

AHEAD OF THE TIMES There are a few notable exceptions, who incorporated technology into the guest experience before the pandemic and could weather the challenges. One of those locations was Canyon Ranch, Las Vegas, with 134,000 square feet (touted as the largest spa in the US) and 150 service experiences from spa, salon, and wellness. Canyon Ranch has long infused the notion of a touch-free experience for their guests. With the Aquavana®, “a suite of thermal spa cabins, tubs, and thermal bathing environments,” as well as the Wave Lounge, which provides an experience of healing and tension-releasing power with the use of advanced thermal treatment.

It is a multi-sensory experience simulating the look and feel of breaking waves under a domed canopy. Though at a lower capacity, the location continues to operate and still provide relaxing and wellness-focused practices for guests.

INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS Companies such as Resort Suite are leading the charge in developing technology to meet consumer demand for contactless experiences. In 2020, Resort Suite launched a mobile app, which allows the guest to “manage the experience” from start to finish, from their phones, with one-touch checkin and check-out, automated entry to touchless experiences, and personalized interactions even from a distance.

The technology has been utilized by many spa, wellness, and hotel loca-

tions, though many locations have had to shut their doors and ride out the storm from home.

Six Senses Resorts and Spas, with 18 five-star locations, and a debut in the New York City area in 2021, made the transition from in person to online classes at the urging of patrons who wanted to continue to practice self-care. The move from live handson classes to virtual has allowed for additional revenue for many locations.

The labor cost reduction has been replaced with an increase in residual income from classes and training. The shift to automation seems as if it will remain for years to come as it is advantageous for the spa and wellness location, and the consumer benefits from the experience as well.

A re c e n t w h i t e p a p e r f ro m the Global Wellness Institute’s Hydrothermal Initiative touts the benefits and advantages of contactless experiences and encourages the utilization of equipment such as the “hydromassage.” The system is reported to give a relaxing massage sensation, and the guest can customize it, thus maximizing the experience. If guests cannot travel to Canyon Ranch or Six Senses to have a touchless experience, the benefits can be found in a location in their neighborhood. Massage Luxe, a spa franchise brand, offers a “Hydroluxe Massage” experience using powerful jets of water to relax the muscles and soothe tension. The service is free for

members and $1 for non-members, and the benefits are noted to be similar to those experienced in a traditional massage session.

FINAL NOTE Will machines ever fully replace massage therapists, estheticians, or nail techs? No, as a therapist and former Director of Spa and Wellness, I don’t see that ever happening. However, I feel it is time to finally embrace technology in the spa and wellness treatment rooms to enhance the guest experience until all of our skilled service providers can step back into their roles.

Once COVID-19 is a distant memory, I sincerely feel the demand for human connection will jump-start the industry and get us back to pre-Covid numbers and face-to-face experiences. Until then, technology is a friend and not an enemy and strives to meet the spa and wellness demands for consumers.

Sherrie Tennessee is the Education Director of SpaSOS, where she conducts Spa Management, Wellness, CBD and Customer Service focused training. Sherrie is a licensed massage therapist, nail tech, spa owner, speaker, professor, educator, and author.

She is currently completing a Ph.D. and holds a Master of Business Administration with a concentration in marketing and entrepreneurship.

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This process yields smoother skin, slower regrowth, and eliminates ingrown hairs. The water solubility of the product also allows it to sink into the follicle to fully extract the hair, removing even shorter hairs than waxing can.

Sugaring is also more sustainable in many respects! Sugaring paste is biodegradable (food grade) and creates less waste, as it eliminates the need for sticks and strips. In fact, you can use the same ball of paste throughout the entire service! It’s also safe for all skin types, especially clients with sensitive skin.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF BECOMING A CERTIFIED PROFESSIONAL SUGARING PRACTITIONER?

INDUSTRY TALK with Tami Blake, founder, CEO and Lead Formula Developer at Sweet & True Sugaring Co. and Myra Aviles, 20 year sugaring veteran and the Director of Education at Sweet & True Sugaring.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF SUGARING AS OPPOSED TO WAXING? Tami: Let’s start with the basics! Sugaring is an all natural form of hair removal that uses a paste made of sugar, water, and lemon. The paste is molded into the hair follicle (in the opposite direction of growth) and flicked or removed in the direction of growth. The application and chemical makeup of sugaring paste allows the hair to slide out of the follicle with little disruption to the skin. Unlike wax, sugaring paste is never applied hot, so it will not burn or irritate the skin - which is a common complaint of waxing.

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Tami: Sugaring provides superior results as compared to other methods of epilation and is becoming the industry standard for hair removal, so knowing this practice is imperative.

When I brought sugaring into my waxing spa in 2013, 95% of my Brazilian wax clients converted to sugaring. It fosters a fiercely loyal clientele! From a business perspective, you will experience less market competition, a lower cost of service ($5 less on average for a Brazilian), and higher profit margins as you can charge more for sugaring services ($10-$15 more for a Brazilian).

Something that is very important for me as well is that you are able to promote more environmentally-friendly products and services, and position yourself as a sustainable business.

IN WHAT WAYS CAN SPAS ADD SUGARING TO THEIR MENUS? Myra: Because sugaring is still uncommon in the United States, the first step in integrating it into your offerings needs to be educating clients and building awareness about its benefits.

Education is key. You’ll want to display informative literature and shelf talkers throughout your spa. Create content to

share on your social media channels, website, newsletters, and other marketing platforms. Create a limited-time offer that encourages your established clientele to try sugaring. This will definitely generate excitement and create an urgency to book.

Once your clients experience the benefits of sugaring, word-of-mouth will spread like wildfire. When you provide knowledgeable and excellent service, your clients will tell at least five friends.

Double down on this by offering incentives for referrals, encourage clients to leave online reviews, send thank you notes, and follow up post service.

Utilize your “warm leads” and be sure to show your appreciation when clients send people your way or post about you on social media. Investing in marketing and social media is a business write-off and everyone wins.

HOW CAN ESTHETICIANS HELP CLIENTS OPTIMIZE THEIR SUGARING RESULTS? Myra: Follow these principles: C.E.R.T. = Consistency, Education, Results, Trust. In order to achieve long-lasting and smooth results from sugaring, it is the professional’s responsibility to educate their clients on proper aftercare and get them on a timely maintenance schedule. While your clients no longer have to shave daily, they still need to commit to at-home care. Exfoliating properly and keeping the skin hydrated and moisturized will maximize results in between appointments.

When you accept a new client, set aside a few minutes to educate them about the biology of the skin and help set expectations that will build trust and keep them motivated to maintain.

In order for sugaring results to lead to permanency, clients must know they need to book consistent appointments, along with maintaining their at-home care routine. For example, if someone doesn’t properly exfoliate and moisturize prior to their appointment, they may have hair lying under a thin layer

of dead skin, which can be left behind after the treatment. Within a few days, the client will feel stubble and wonder why they spent their money on that service. Most of the time, the client won’t call you to complain; rather they will just never come back.

WHERE DID THE IDEA OF SWEET & TRUE COME ABOUT? Tami: When I opened my spa in 2013, I was disappointed at the lack of clean hair removal lines on the market. I saw too many formulas using talcum powder, mineral oil, and synthetic colorants in industry hair removal lines. None of these ingredients provide nutrients for the skin or promote skin health. For me, this was odd considering how aggressive hair removal is on the skin and how many people suffer from irritation after hair removal services. All of the growing trends in the clean beauty skincare space were non-existent in the hair removal market. When I formulated the Sweet & True Sugaring collection, I wanted to change this. I wanted to use natural, food grade ingredients that were safe for the planet and human health.

WHAT SHOULD SPAS KEEP IN MIND WHEN CHOOSING WHAT TYPE OF SUGAR PRODUCTS TO USE? Myra: The sugaring formula itself is simple (sugar, water, and lemon), but the process of cooking the sugar into a paste while maintaining its integrity is the sensitive part. When choosing a sugaring line, think about the brand presentation, price point, educational support, customer service, and distribution location. The support products available and technical education will also determine your success. At Sweet & True, we are a family-owned operation that manufactures our own products in-house, allowing us total control over the quality of our products and the process. We also are proud to offer products made with organic ingredients that are safe for skin and the planet.

sweetandtruesugaring.com 925.464.1002 care@sweetandtrueaugaring.com

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business Make the Switch

MAKE the SWITCH From licensed esthetician to medical aesthetician

by Kara McLucas Mark

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Medical aesthetics is a growing field within the skincare field. It is somewhat of a self-defined classification because there is no nationally recognized, formal training program. It is typically a title gained by adding more advanced training to aesthetic licensure and placing one in a medically focused work environment. It can be daunting while looking at what other certifications you can add to become a medical aesthetician. This article will lay out a framework about how to advance your career and work alongside medical professionals.

business Make the Switch

WHAT IS A MEDICAL ESTHETICIAN? A medical aesthetician is an aesthetician who has gained enough talent to further assist medical professionals in their treatment and maintenance of clients' skin and body through thoughtful advanced training. By becoming a medical aesthetician, one can provide more in-depth services and drive a higher profit margin.

ADVANCED OPPORTUNITIES Once having gained your aesthetic licensure, getting out into the field can be overwhelming, especially when you want to become a medical aesthetician.

With med spas popping up and more physicians turning to cosmetic procedures as a profit driver, you can work anywhere and gain the right exposure.

Working under a dermatologist or plastic surgeon offers the best exposure to medical aesthetics. This can either be within their own practice or with them acting as a medical director in a medical spa. Aligning yourself with a practitioner specializing in the skin is the best way to gain experience and the opportunity to become a medical aesthetician.

TRAINING Some states may offer an advanced aesthetics program that will give you training in all of these things and more.

Unfortunately, there is no nationally accredited advanced aesthetics program because each state has different limitations on equipment usage and scope of practice. Regardless of limitations, going through a program that offers more advanced training may be the most cost-efficient for training in other modalities or if you are thinking about moving to a different state.

When you have pinpointed a workplace, it is essential to know what type of training they offer. The road to becoming a medical aesthetician can become costly. Stereotypically, larger offices can get a discounted rate on training for having a larger group. It is also suggested to look into what your

state defines as your scope of practice. Certain modalities are off-limits to medical aestheticians due to the safety concerns of that state’s medical board.

Knowing what you can and cannot do will help you be more specific in obtaining advanced training. These courses can range from resurfacing peels to body contouring to laser modalities.

WHERE DO YOU START? Acid-base peels are something that we as estheticians are informed about but not taught. Usually, these trainings are product line based, but the science behind the application can be broadly applied so that you can work with any peel brand. At any level, surface or dermal, peels are considered an advanced esthetic procedure and can add to your appeal as a medical aesthetician. They are also a great place to start before you move on to more advanced certifications.

Laser specialization is generally what people think of first in the medical aesthetic field. Lasers are more strictly regulated based upon their penetrative depths and usages. There is no nationally recognized laser licensure that allows you to bypass any state restrictions on usage. For instance, in West Virginia, you are allowed to use laser modalities under the licensure of a physician. Still, in Maryland, you cannot use any type of laser equipment if you are not at least a registered nurse.

There are two classifications of lasers, ablative or non-ablative. Ablative lasers work for deeper skin resurfacing, such as heavy sun damage, scarring, or facelift alternatives. Non-ablative lasers work within the first three layers of skin and are for general skin texture, epidermis level sun damage, maintenance procedures, tattoo removal, and hair removal. Being laser certified significantly increases your marketability and scope of practice to be more appealing to clients and cosmetic offices.

BOTTOM LINE Becoming a medical esthetician is no easy task based upon the fact it is so customizable, and you can isolate what you want to specialize in. Always check what your state lets you practice so that you don't get certified in something you cannot use. Taking cues from the workplace is a great way to know what the client base needs and wants.

When in doubt, reach out to a mentor or network with other medical based aestheticians who can guide you in the right direction.

Kara McLucas-Mark is a licensed esthetician with a medical focus. She has worked with multiple modalities including non-ablative lasers, microcurrent, ultrasound skin tightening, and radiofrequency machines. She lives with her husband and two dogs outside of Annapolis, MD. She loves learning about new skin developments, her LED light, and jade roller!

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business Behind the Spa Door

Behind the Spa Door Creativity and innovation in times of crisis with Diana Ralys, Founder and Owner of Radiance Wellness Spa in Santa Monica, CA. Radiance Wellness Spa located in Santa Monica, California, is a mother-daughter run spa fueled by love, respect, and spiritual connection.

Here, locals and visitors can experience Organic Facials, Reiki, Infrared Sauna, and the family’s own line of skincare products. Like many other spas affected by the pandemic, Radiance Wellness Spa was forced to shut down for a trying 10 months. Resilient and passionate about their practice, Owner Diana Ralys and Spa Director Kristina Vystartaite became creative, developing thoughtful ways to stay connected to their clients while also promoting their handmade skin care line through at-home facial kits. The love and support from their clients simply emulated their unwavering devotion to their spa business.

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business Behind the Spa Door

How have you stayed connected with your clients during the shutdown?

Clients come to the spa for their skincare needs, but also to relax and to take a break from their stressful life.

With the spa closed, I wanted to make sure I did all I could to continue providing that support. Every week I wrote inspirational letters filled with love and compassion. My daughter Kristina, who is also my Spa Director and my brand executive, and I filmed video tutorials for at-home facials.

We created "Facial in the Bag" kits that also came with written and video instructions. We added a new virtual Skin Health Membership (every month members receive a professional facial at home kit with instructions how to use it). I offered free skincare consultations via phone and email. Kristina and I published several blog articles on my website with healthy meal recipes and educational information.

Can you tell us a bit more about these facial kits and what they include?

Professional Facial Kits came out of the need for our spa to stay afloat and for our spa partners as well. We came up with 4 key kits that would be suitable for all skin types. Easy to follow instructions that are printed inside the kit and a video link for a YouTube video that goes step by step on how to use the products and techniques (tips and tricks) on how to best utilize the products.

These kits include Breakout Control, Brightening Glow, Age Defying, and Hydrate & Rejuvenate. These are safe at-home replicas of facial treatments offered at our spa.

How did the idea come about to create your own skincare line?

As an esthetician, I am a strong advocate for truly natural products. The more I researched skincare ingredients, the clearer it was to me that not all

brands that marketed their products as natural were that clean. Even the ones that were organic certified used ingredients that were synthetic or even toxic. Other skincare brands were using clean ingredients, but the products were too mild to deliver real results. I challenged myself to develop a skincare line that was truly natural and effective.

Another important factor to me was product packaging. Especially when we talk about professional products used in spa treatments, that contain higher percentages of fruit acids and enzymes.

Even the best plastic is still plastic that is porous and interacts with active skin care ingredients. Glass is the only solid material that will not leak any particles into the skincare products, it is ecological, sustainable and reusable. After a long search, I realized that what I was looking for didn't exist: Result oriented skincare made with organic potent ingredients, naturally preserved and packaged in glass. That is how Diana Ralys Skin Health products were born.

What makes your formulas unique?

It bothered me for many years when people said that natural skincare products don't work. Let's look at the skin structure for a moment. Skin is a live organ. When we eat natural and not overprocessed food, our bodies can easily absorb the nutrients and use it for energy and cell reproduction. Same with the skin. There is an active immune system on the surface of the skin. These are called langerhans cells. Langerhans cells act as the topical guard against pathogens. Synthetic ingredients can be recognized by langerhans as foreign substances, collected and disposed of via lymph system. Following that philosophy, only natural ingredients can be accepted by skin's immune system and actually work.

In addition to being clean, active and effective, my skincare products are charged energetically. I am a Reiki

Master Healer, and have been practicing energy work for over 28 years.

Several scientific studies had shown the significant effect of energy. For example, water changes its molecular structure. It made sense to me, that infusing reiki into my products, will make them even more beneficial. My products are handmade by me. It is important that I feel balanced and joyful when I am mixing my formulations. I learned not to push myself, because if I do work while frustrated, tired or rushing, something goes wrong.

How has the support been from existing clientele? How can clients continue to uplift and support small businesses?

We love our clients and they love us back. I can't even count how many emails, text messages, phone calls and comments on social media we received.

People were pouring their hearts out, sending encouraging thoughts and appreciation. Besides the emotional support, our clients were doing their best to help us financially. My business is family owned and operated, which means this was the only income we have. Our clients kept buying my skincare products for themselves and as gifts. Majority of them kept paying their membership fees even though the spa was closed and they couldn't come for treatments. It truly brings us to tears of happiness to feel all that love coming back to us. Life is like an echo, what you send out, comes back, and what you give is what you get.

Buying local and buying from small businesses is essential now more than ever. As easy as it may be to go to amazon to purchase anything, it's important to think about your local hardware store, bakery, shop, restaurant, and support them instead. It may take longer to get your items and it may be a bit more pricey but it will be well worth it knowing that you are supporting a family or a person's dream.

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BEAUTY BULLETIN BOARD CIRCADIA ANNOUNCES “SAGE MICHAELA LUCAS TIMING IS EVERYTHING� SCHOLARSHIP Circadia, a pioneer in the science of chronobiology and skincare, is generously funding the Sage Michaela Lucas Timing is Everything scholarship. The $50,000 scholarship awards tuition funding to support biracial, indigenous and persons of color (BIPOC) pursuing a career in the professional esthetics sector. As a long-time advocate for inclusivity and diversity, Michael saw how students in under-served communities often lacked access to emerging protocols and advanced skincare science. A commitment to educational equality for all students inspired Circadia CEO Michael Pugliese to establish the scholarship. beautychangeslives.org

6 CE HOUR LYMPHATIC FACIAL LIVE INTERACTIVE WEBINAR Lymphatic facials are a wonderful alternative for clients who are contraindicated for regular facial work. They are easy to learn and practice in a qualified class. They are practiced for clients who had recent face and neck surgeries, including cosmetic surgeries, burn victims and those who are suffering from head and neck cancers to name a few. The next webinar will be live on March, 15, 2021. Reserve your spot today! ceinstitute.com 28

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ADVANCED ESTHETICS ACNE PRO COURSE Never again question your options for the treatment of acne. Learn all you need to know about acne, its causes, and the most effective way to treat it! This 4-hour course includes all of the resources and education you need to be successful in helping your clients see and feel results. Other courses including the Advanced Esthetics Boot Camp Program are available online. skinperfectacademy.us

NEW PAYCHECK PROTECTION PROGRAM (PPP) APPROVED FOR BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS The PBFC, in partnership with Adesso Capital, is accepting applications from professional Beauty and Personal Service sectors across all 50 states for the announced deal extending the Paycheck Protection Program (PPP). The new PPP extends 100% forgivable loans to independent contractors, 1099 workers, salon owners, booth renters, salon suite owners and renters, and sole proprietors. The PBFC encourages beauty and personal service professionals to apply now so that they will not be left behind when the U.S. Small Business Administration begins processing and funding worthy applications. federationplans.com/ppp

UNIVERSAL COMPANIES INTRODUCES SAFETY + SANITATION ESSENTIALS The Universal Companies new line includes a full range of products and services designed for sanitation and disinfection for spas and salons, including eco-friendly sanitation options, protection for clients and staff, barrier and sanitation stations, and access to free resources and education. The company plans to take standard sanitation options to a more advanced level with innovative solutions like a sanitation portal and an electrostatic mister that empowers employees to rapidly disinfect large spaces for less than one cent per square foot. universalcompanies.com

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esty2esty

ON INSTAGRAM

See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month!

We hope you all have been enjoying ICES Digital Destination as much as we have! Knowledge is power, estys, and the more you know, the more trust you build with your clients! You want to be the goto esthetician for every skincare question. The only way to do that is to stay in touch with the latest.

And what better way to do that than • A Year in Review: 2020 from A-Z. We rounded up the latest in skincare & spa for 2020; now we’re ready for what’s in store this year! What do you all predict the new year will bring!?

• Marketing Mika received a glowing Dermaplaning and Oxygran facial at Skin byTatum!

with our app!? You can watch the most influential industry experts and shop the best of the best skincare straight from your fingertips!

Last month, we had the pleasure of visiting a few of our favorite spots here in Miami, FL. We loved Amanda Hudges’ lecture on CBD 101, so of course, we had to try Glam Lab’s CBD Glow Facial. Did we reap the benefits? Find out on our social channels! How are you incorporating the latest trends into your treatments? Tag us on Instagram at @EstheticianEdit for a chance to be featured!

• Who should you be marketing to this Valentine’s Day? Learn more on our blog!

• Editor Samantha enjoying the warmth of Skin Script's Ginger Enzyme at Glam Lab Miami!

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New Nirvana Health and Beauty Spa is Staffed by Laid-Off Estheticians After being laid-off due to COVID-19, esthetician Taralyn Freda began to incorporate more wellness practices into her everyday life. This made her want to pursue health coaching and expand the services she offered. The solution was opening her own wellness medical spa in Philadelphia, PA. After connecting with other massage therapists and estheticians who had been let go, she found out they were interested in coming aboard. The spa is now open and offering massage, facials, acupuncture, and health coaching.

nirvanahealthandbeauty.com

ESTHETICIAN

SPOTLIGHT Southern Sugaring Salon Expands After Growing Business Post-Pandemic Southern Sugaring, Savannah’s experts in sugaring hair removal, microblading, lashes, and skincare opens February 1 in its newest location on Middleground Road. Since reopening in June 2020 after the COVID-19 shutdown, Southern Sugaring has been busier than ever, so owner and founder Jessica Mock needed to expand and find a larger space. The new location boasts spacious treatment rooms, ample parking space, and a variety of new skincare services featuring Top Shelf Skin Tonics, the company’s own line of products.

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CONNECT WITH #TheEEDuo Check out our blog & follow us on Instagram for real-time video content, engaging interviews, and beauty biz tips!

@estheticianedit

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blog.lneonline.com LNEonline.com

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Sanitation Guide

Spa Disinfection Are you keeping your spa safe?

by Nicole Kenny WILL THINGS EVER GO BACK TO BEING NORMAL? Yes and no. Viruses and bacteria that can lead to infections and illness have always been present in personal care facilities. Coronavirus has merely demonstrated the ability for germs to spread rapidly when left unchecked. If you were not diligent in your infection prevention practices prior to the outbreak, then life will not return to the way things were for you. In a post-pandemic world, your clients will be more vigilant and aware of the measures being taken to keep them safe. Not just from COVID, but other everyday germs that can spread influenza,

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Sanitation Guide C. difficile, Pseudomonas, and other skin-related infections. When it comes to keeping pathogens out of your spa, the new norm is no different than the old standard.

WHAT IS THE BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION ABOUT PREVENTING THE SPREAD OF GERMS IN A SPA? Disinfectants do not kill on contact, and yet we find the practice of immediately wiping a surface down after disinfecting is still commonplace. It is all the more a bad habit given some disinfectants need to keep a surface wet for as long as 10 minutes to do their job! Anything short of that, and you’re not achieving the requisite time to eradicate pathogens and stop their potentially deadly spread. You should also be aware that most disinfectants cannot stay wet for that length of time—suffering from what we call “premature evaporation,” in which case, re-application would be needed. Fortunately, there are fasteracting disinfectants on the market today that can kill viruses and bacteria in as little as one minute, so read the label and understand what you’re working with. If you’re electing to use a product with longer contact times, be sure to leave a sufficient amount of time between client appointments to facilitate proper disinfection.

DID YOU KNOW SOME DISINFECTANTS COME WITH HARSH WARNINGS? While disinfectants all share the common goal of killing pathogens, they are not all created equal. Just like taking medicine can come with some significant side-effects, you should also be aware that daily exposure to your disinfectant may result in adverse health complications. This includes eye and skin irritation, respiratory issues, nausea, headaches, drowsiness, and even fertility concerns. All these precautions and warnings can be found on the product label and Safety Data Sheet (SDS), so you should familiarize yourself with

While disinfectants all share the common goal of killing pathogens, they are not all created equal. them and take any necessary protective measures. Many beauty professionals resign themselves to working with harsh chemicals in their spa as a necessary evil to combat pathogens, but that is no longer the case. Next-generation disinfectants deliver decisive action against germs while being gentle on users and the planet—it is possible to have the best of both worlds.

WHY IS THE CHAIN OF CUSTODY IMPORTANT IN YOUR SPA? Just like in episodes of CSI or Law & Order, surfaces, objects, and devices potentially coming in contact with pathogens need to be treated as if they were evidence in an important trial. Those items can stay contaminated for hours or up to days under the right conditions. So you must keep in mind that your workspaces, furniture, equipment, and other high touch areas like reception counters, handles, pay devices, etc., are possible sources of infection or cross-contamination. You should assume that everything you interact with during your service can be a source of exposure to yourself and others. To minimize the risk, be sure to disinfect surfaces after every appointment, have your clients sanitize their hands, and wash your hands frequently throughout the day.

tion to guest services to estheticians and even custodial staff, all employees of your facility need to be playing from the same rule book. That’s why it’s crucial to have protocols or written processes in place that identify the cleaning and disinfecting procedures that are to take place at each of your facility’s stations—from the front of the house to treatment areas, washrooms, and employee break spaces. All staff must be educated, trained, and made aware of their responsibilities and duties while at work to ensure consistency before, during, and after every service.

In turn, clients should be informed of your policies so that they know you have implemented the highest standards of care within your facility. You can do so not only through direct communication but also through tent cards, posted protocols, policy placards in your spa, on your website, social media channels, and other promotional literature.

Nicole Kenny is the Vice President of Professional and Technical Services at Virox Technologies with over 20 years of experience as an infection prevention trainer, presenter and author working in the field of

IS YOUR SPA PLAYING LIKE A TEAM?

environmental hygiene and disinfection. Virox

Preventing the spread of infection must be a group effort and a collective priority within your spa setting. From recep-

Disinfectants specifically formulated for the

Technologies is the creator of Rejuvenate™ professional beauty industry. To learn more, visit RejuvenateDisinfecants.com.

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Sanitation Guide

Treatment Table Sanitation

Eight steps for sanitizing your massage therapy and spa treatment tables during COVID-19

by Selena Belisle

Spa and massage establishments have had to modify their businesses during COVID-19. Updated sanitation practices incorporate how to keep staff and clients safe from contaminated objects and surfaces within the establishment. We know that COVID-19 is mainly spread through respiratory droplets. A spa or massage table has two individuals, the client and practitioner, directly breathing over the table for extended periods. As such, these tables should be thoroughly sanitized between users.

In this article, we will review how to properly sanitize a massage therapy or spa treatment table and table accessories within a dry room:

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Sanitation Guide

1 Remove all reusable items from the table that cannot be laundered or sanitized between clients and do not use them during the COVID-19 pandemic, i.e., table skirts or heating pads.

2 Open any available windows or doors and engage any air filtration or ventilation sources before sanitation if they are not already in use. All available air ventilation and filtration sources should already be in use during the COVID-19 pandemic regardless of when sanitation is practiced.

3 Wear a facial covering and gloves to remove all laundry used for the spa or massage service and place items in a sealed container for laundering.

This includes blankets, sheets, covers, and towels.

goal is to ensure there is not any debris on a surface prior to disinfection.

Disinfection is ineffective on a dirty surface; therefore, washing is first required.

Provide extra attention to any surface where a client has directly breathed, sneezed, or coughed. That means if a client was in a prone position on the table, be thorough with any bars and handles of a face cradle, face cushion, and top of the table.

• If the table has a hole for a client’s head instead of a separate face cradle, then be sure to wash and thoroughly disinfect all surfaces inside, underneath, and around the face hole.

disinfectants require several minutes of contact time (also known as dwell time) for efficacy. Read and follow the manufacturer’s labeled instructions on a disinfectant.

8 If face cushions with a face cradle are in use, consider using at least two separate face cradles and cushions during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Practitioners can alternate face cradles and cushions with every new client to help minimize exposure.

The best way to prevent the acquisition or transmission of COVID-19 is to self-isolate. If you must work during the pandemic, consider utilizing additional protection measures such as a client health intake form, including specific COVID-19 screening.

• It is critical to wear a facial covering and gloves while handling anything that has had extended direct contact with a client’s airway during the pandemic and protect yourself from repeated chemical exposure to commercial sanitizers.

6 Apply a disinfectant to all table surfaces, legs, knobs, pegs, handles, bolsters, and any remote controls used for table adjustments after cleaning. Do the same for the face cradle, face cushion and any accessories in between.

Keep all sanitizer items in a childproof sealed container before and after use.

Only use sealed trash receptacles for sanitation trash.

4 When laundering items before re-

7 Allow proper contact time for the

tiple state boards in the bodywork and cosme-

dressing the table, be sure to use the hot water setting on the washer and the high heat setting on the dryer, plus ensure that all laundry is thoroughly dried after washing with detergent. One of the best ways to reduce bacteria and viruses from the laundry is through high heat temperatures.

disinfectant to work before redressing the table or table accessories. Most

tology industries. You can learn more about

Selena Belisle is the founder of CE Institute LLC in Miami, Florida. She is approved as a continuing education provider by the National Certification Board for Therapeutic Massage and Bodywork and mul-

• Wash hands before handling clean laundry or redressing the table.

• Use a laundry machine’s sanitize setting if it is available.

• Adding bleach to the wash cycle can help eliminate germs if the laundry can be bleached.

5 Once the laundry is removed from the table, wash the table and all table accessory surfaces with soap and water, then rinse and dry as needed. The 40

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her background classes at CeInstitute.com

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Nufree® is a non-wax hair removal process that will remove hair from any part of the body—virtually pain-free. Because Nufree® isn’t a wax, clients won’t experience the pain, redness, or swelling that often happens with wax-based products. Scientifically tested, Nufree® is a self-preserving antibacterial and antimicrobial, ensuring that it’s both safe and effective. Nufree® is so gentle that clients can apply makeup, swim, and tan once finipil® has been applied after their treatment. finipil® our patented* and FDA registered antiseptic lotion kills 99.999% of germs, cools, soothes, and protects the skin from ingrown hairs and irritation! nufree-professionals.com

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AMPOULE Le Mieux StemCell EGF lemieuxcosmetics.com

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BRIGHTENING TREATMENT Skin Script Rx Lemon Zest Enzyme skinscriptrx.com

CLAYS & MUDS BiON Skincare Green Tea Clay Poultice bionresearch.com

DETOX Nature Pure Detoxifying Mud Masque pro.naturepure.com

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LNE & Spa Best Product 2021

FACE HANDHELD EQUIPMENT FOR THE FACE

Celluma Light Therapy Celluma POD celluma.com

DiamondTome DT2 Skin Resurfacing System medspadistributors.biz

FACIAL OIL DermaplanePro Nourishe Dermaplaning Oil dermaplanepro.com

FACE MISTS Purvari

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Dermafirm USA Bio Eye Defense dermafirmusa.com

FACIAL EXFOLIANT FarmHouse Fresh One Fine Day Flawless Face Polish farmhousefreshgoods.com

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LNE & Spa Best Product 2021

LASH CONDITIONER Revitalash Advanced Eyelash Conditioner & Serum revitalash.com

HAIR REMOVAL Sweet & True Sugaring

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Sweet & True Sugaring Paste sweetandtruesugaring.com

Celluma Light Therapy Celluma PRO celluma.com

LASH EXTENSION LashBeePro Honey-Do Foaming Lash Shampoo lashbeepro.com

INNOVATIVE Hawrych MD Lash Enhancing LIQUID Eyeliner hawrychmdlash.com

LIP TREATMENT Sorella Apothecary Tinted Lip Hydrator sorellaapothecary.com

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LNE & Spa Best Product 2021

PEEL DermAware

FACIAL MASK

Green Polyphenol Peel dermaware.com

G.M. Collin AQUA MASK gmcollin.com

MASSAGE Equipro BOHÉMIA equipro-bty.com

ORGANIC Eminence Beyond Organic Collection eminenceorganics.com

PEPTIDES Viktoria De Ann Rejuvenator viktoriadeann.com

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organic & wellness Thai Herbal Poultice

THAI HERBAL POULTICE An herbal remedy for the times

by Cecily Braden

One distinction between Estheticians and Massage Therapists that became abundantly clear as stay at home restrictions were lifted was the ability to offer services without removing the clients face mask. While an understandable safety measure, it left Estheticians in a quandary since covering the mouth was undoubtedly an obstacle that would prove difficult to overcome. As restrictions fluctuate and fears spike, this may well be a pivotal moment for body treatments, as we try to determine what is safe, what is allowed and what is possible in caring for our clients.

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organic & wellness Thai Herbal Poultice

A Shift in Mindset The challenge is how to shift the mindset of someone wanting a facial to booking a body treatment, which leads me to introduce the Thai Herbal Poultice. Its body work that clients love receiving, massage therapists love giving, and Estheticians can modify into a body treatment that falls within their scope.

It’s particularly unique in its ability to not only provide the stress relief and restorative benefits we so desperately need, but also allow for a level of safety and distance that is hard to find within the spa walls that are built on touch therapies.

Touch without Touch What is the Herbal Poultice and what are the benefits?

In Thai, Luk Pra Kob, literally translates as “pressing herbal sphere” or herbal ball. It is also commonly referred to as an herbal compress, bundle or poultice.

In definition, it’s a blend of Thai organic herbs, wrapped in a muslin cloth, steamed and applied to the body with a variety of massage movements. The body absorbs the heat, along with the organic herbs to help reduce aches & pains, stimulate circulation, increase lymphatic drainage, boost the immune system, detoxify & condition the skin.

The Thai tradition of herbal healing dates back for centuries and is an integrated system of medicine incorporating the Indian Ayurvedic system with Chinese practices, mixed folk medicine and the belief in the powers of nature & earth.

Use of an herbal compress can be traced back to the 14th Century Ayutthaya Thailand when a hot pack was administered to war-soldiers returning from battle to help heal their wounds and expedite their recovery.

The wisdom of herbs; how to grow, which to use, and for exactly what purposes, has been passed down from

generation to generation and they remain an important part of everyday life and one of three main branches of Thai medicine.

Versatility & Safety Once the herbal poultice is steamed to soften and activate the herbs, it’s applied using a variety of rolling, kneading and compression movements based on the intention of the therapist. Since both hands are used to roll and control the compression, it provides a barrier between you and your client without diminishing the therapeutic benefits.

And, in times of uncertainty with the quality of the air in an enclosed environment, it’s comforting to know that studies show that both the herbs and the associated steam in preparing them, can have a positive impact on the respiratory system due to the relative humidity and inhalation of some ingredients commonly found in herbal compresses such as eucalyptus, menthol, and camphor.”1,2

Elevate any Service & Experience Traditionally, the herbal poultice is incorporated into Thai massage performed on a floor mat and with the client clothed, but as a healing modality, it’s an amazingly effective tool that will elevate many services and is not limited to Massage Therapists. Once trained on the proper techniques for each treatment area, all licensed professionals can integrate into their own work being sure to keep in mind the fundamentals, intention and traditions of Thai healing practices.

For Massage Therapists, it provides a deep heat medicinal muscle treatment and is combined with multiple massage modalities that are seamlessly fused together to honor the 5-layers of Thai bodywork. They include passive yoga-like stretching, stimulation of Thai Sen points and specific aromatherapy effleurage strokes along the Sen meridians.

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organic & wellness Thai Herbal Poultice

HERBAL POULTICE BODY CARE BENEFITS

For Estheticians, it evolves into a beautifully orchestrated therapeutic body treatment that can precede or follow an array of services: body scrub, mask, craniosacral or facial therapy.

It can transform a traditional body scrub or body mask into a deeply detoxifying herbal remedy that allows clients to experience the transdermal inner cleansing benefits of the herbs and a proliferation of fresh blood and nutrients that feed the underlying tissue.

Applied during a back facial, the warmth will assist in softening and bringing pus, sebum, and cellular debris closer to the surface of the skin, while the anti-bacterial, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties of the herbs aid in healing and clearing the skin long-term.

Stress reduction equals vibrant skin.

Using heat to melt tension in the shoulders and neck helps combat tech neck and disband myofascial tension that block the flow of essential nutrients and the space necessary for the optimal exchange of blood and lymph. Restoring mobility within the tissue and muscles, releases the gravitational pull on the facial structures for a more lifted and sculpted profile.

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As a decolletage massage, it helps soften the visible appearance of lines and creases between the breasts by expanding the muscles in the pectoral region and reducing the effects of rounded shoulders. Improving posture helps decrease back pain and boost the immune system by allowing the organs to function unobstructed.

Apply before a hydrotherapy treatment and allow your client to continue using the compress while soaking in the warm water for additional painrelieving and calmative benefits.

Incorporate into a deep heat herbal foot ritual that will embark clients into a new era of relaxation and bring a fresh feeling of exquisite warmth, lightness and renewed energy throughout their body.

Let the herbal poultice become an extension of your hand as you weave it into a foundational and functional part of your body treatments.

For the client, it takes them on a sensory journey to wellness, immediately invoking a sense of calm with recipients usually reporting a heightened sense of “ahhh” and well-being; a sensation of feeling simultaneously energized and relaxed, invigorated and deeply peaceful.

• Reduce joint & muscle pain • Increase circulation & lymphatic flow • Speed recovery from sports activities • Ease tension & muscle cramps • Reduce swelling & inflammation • Increase flexibility, lengthen taut muscles • Detoxify; warms & aids the digestive system • Release blocked energy; melt knots in muscles • Increase energy flow throughout the body • Combat fatigue & stress; energize • Balance nervous tension; calm • Remedy for cold, tired or weak legs & feet • Boost immune system • Reduce stress & mental fatigue • Stimulates breathing & clear congestion

1 Eran Ben-Arye, Nativ Dudai , Anat Eini, Moshe Torem, Elad Schiff, Yoseph Rakover, "Treatment of Upper Respiratory Tract Infections in Primary Care: A Randomized Study Using Aromatic Herbs", Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, vol. 2011, Article ID 690346, 7 pages, 2011. https:// doi.org/10.1155/2011/690346 2 Dietz L, Horve PF, Coil DA, Fretz M, Eisen JA, Van Den Wymelenberg K. 2020. 2019 novel coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic: built environment considerations to reduce transmission. mSystems 5:e00245-20. https://doi.org/10.1128/ mSystems.00245-20.

Cecily Braden Founder of CJB Beauty Secrets and recognized leader in the wellness industry who has been educating spa professionals in the United States, Canada, Mexico, Asia and Europe since 1994. CJB Beauty Secrets was started as a result of her passion for Southeast Asia and desire to offer unique products and services that maintain the traditional techniques and philosophies of international cultures.

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organic & wellness Lymphatic Drainage Facial

LYMPHATIC

DRAINAGE FACIAL Understanding the Basics for Esthetic, Cosmetic, Oncology and Medical Purposes

by Selena Belisle

The lymphatic system is partly responsible for removing excess fluid from human tissue to relieve swelling. It collects the excess fluid that the body’s cardiovascular veins cannot collect and leaves behind. As such, swelling is a normal result when the lymphatic system is damaged or when human tissue is traumatized.

HOW LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE WORKS Lymphatic drainage primarily uses human touch over the epidermis to help relieve swelling. Drainage is achieved through specialized strokes and techniques that are applied in a specific order with professional training. In a lymphatic facial session, the practitioner uses their finger pads to apply these very fine movements around the collarbone, jawbone, through the neck, around the ears, and over the entire

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organic & wellness Lymphatic Drainage Facial

face during the service. Most lymphatic facial appointments can be completed within about 30 to 60 minutes.

LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE WITH ONCOLOGY About twenty years ago, lymphatic facials were mostly provided for cancer patient survivors. Oncology treatments often include the surgical removal and/ or radiation of lymph nodes, which could subsequently cause swelling.

And because we now have more cancer survivors living longer, we still see plenty of this work.

LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE FOR ESTHETIC AND COSMETIC PURPOSES Today, many lymphatic facials treatments are practiced for cosmetic procedures, with most of those being in conjunction with plastic surgeries.

Unfortunately, facelifts, blepharoplasty, nose jobs, and other aggressive esthetic enhancements can result in immediate swelling. While most clients will heal beautifully, it can be a slow and painful process. Lymphatic drainage treatments can help clients recover more quickly with less pain when excessive swelling is reduced.

Lymphatic facials can also be practiced daily after a facial operation when working directly with the surgeon.

Surgeons who have recognized that increased circulation aids in the healing process have started prescribing lymphatic facials before a facial procedure so that the client can have a more effective healing process and result.

Brides, grooms, models, and anyone who wishes for a noninvasive improvement of facial features can also benefit from a lymphatic facial. A lymphatic drainage practitioner can temporarily ameliorate facial puffiness and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles.

It is a wonderful option for a client who might have partied a bit too hard the night before a big event and woke up the next day wondering what happened to their face.

There are other cosmetic bonuses to a lymphatic facial. It can temporarily reduce dark under eye circles and relieve sinus pressure. While these are not lymphatic facial goals, given their unreliable and limited results, they are common side effects that many clients will experience with this work.

LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE FOR MEDICAL PURPOSES And although it is less common, other medical procedures such as dental implants, wisdom tooth removal, and jaw correction can all benefit from multiple lymphatic facial appointments. These procedures can cause extreme swelling in some clients who will do almost anything to relieve it.

The best part of a lymphatic facial is that it is a nonpharmacologic option to reduce swelling and pain, which is terrific for clients who are either allergic or unable to take opioids or NSAIDS. There are many medical facial procedures, including facial cancer skin grafting procedures where an adverse opioid client would find little relief – except for perhaps an ice pack or a lymphatic facial.

did not realize that they could achieve any of this by simply learning how to work with the lymphatic system. But I must reemphasize that lymphatic drainage results are only temporary. That is because we are working on living human tissue, which is continually fed by blood supply. So, while the client continues to live and breathe, their tissues will continue to receive blood supply, which can cause more potential swelling. The medical reason why someone would seek this quick result is because any immediate swelling reduction could accelerate the healing process. There are additional reasons why lymphatic drainage is beneficial despite the temporary results, which are thoroughly reviewed in a formal lymphatic drainage training class.

Selena Belisle is the founder of CE Institute LLC in Miami, Florida. She is approved as a continuing education provider by the National Certification Board for Therapeutic Massage and Bodywork and multiple state boards in the bodywork and cosmetology industries. You can learn more about her background classes at CeInstitute.com

IN SUMMARY I know this technique and information must sound wonderful for those who

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image Eyelash Growth Cycle

Eyelash Growth Cycle Lashing at every stage and addressing client concerns

by Erin Soletski

The natural lash growth cycle is an often overlooked phenomenon in the industry. As a lash artist, it’s imperative to understand how natural lashes grow and shed since lashes require different care during each stage of growth. Understanding how the cycle works and how to adjust your lash technique accordingly ensures you won’t compromise the health of your clients’ natural lashes.

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image Eyelash Growth Cycle

Let’s review the stages of growth, how to account for each stage when lashing, and how to speak with your clients regarding growth and shedding concerns.

THE GROWTH CYCLE Most people have between 100-150 natural lashes on their upper lids. Every natural lash is in one of three stages: Anagen: The lash is actively growing.

For most, the lash grows for about one month, though some lucky clients may experience a longer growth period. The longer the natural lash remains in the anagen phase, the longer it will grow.

Catagen: Once the lash reaches a full length, it will stop growing and begin to transition. As the hair follicle stops producing pigment and the bulb degenerates, the lash will move toward the skin’s surface. This phase typically lasts up to three weeks.

If a lash is pulled out during the catagen phase, the follicle will remain empty until the anagen phase is ready to begin again. This explains why some clients who regularly use lash curlers or strip lashes that pull out natural lashes may experience gaps along their lash lines.

Telogen: This is the shedding phase, in which the fully grown lash rests while a new lash forms underneath, eventually pushing the old lash out and ending the cycle. This type of shedding is perfectly natural. The telogen phase typically lasts several months before a new anagen lash grows. Most people shed between 2-5 natural lashes per eye each day.

The exact length of each phase varies from person to person. As clients age, the cycle slows down, and lashes take longer to regenerate. How natural lashes grow and shed can be heavily impacted by lash care and other outside factors, making it imperative to understand how you can adjust your lash work accordingly.

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WORKING WITH LASHES IN DIFFERENT STAGES When you look closely at your client’s eyes, you’ll find lashes at each stage of growth along the lash line. To promote long-term lash health, always avoid overweighting the natural lash. One size does not fit all when it comes to lashing safely, so this means you’ll need to adjust your extension selection according to where each natural lash is in the growth cycle.

Fully grown lashes in the catagen and telogen phases can handle extensions with a maximum diameter equal to their diameter and up to 30% longer. Brand new “baby” lashes in the anagen phase should be left unlashed – it is best to let them grow without an extension applied, as too much weight can cause premature shedding and long-lasting gaps.

Safely build density by carefully extending the natural lashes between these two phases (sometimes called “teenage” lashes); reduce diameter and/or length to ease the strain of these extensions.

Aside from tiny anagen lashes and telogen lashes on the brink of shedding, it can be challenging to determine exactly how old a natural lash is.

We recommend erring on the side of caution when selecting the size of extension to apply (if any at all!).

ADDRESSING LASH SHEDDING AND DAMAGE CONCERNS The more you know about the lash cycle, the more comfortably you can address client concerns. New clients may comment that their lashes are falling out more than they did before. Reassure them that you take care to apply extensions appropriate for each natural lash and that it is natural (and expected!) for them to lose several lashes each day.

They are likely noticing the shedding at this point simply because there is now something attached to the natural lash, making it easier to see and feel.

You will also likely encounter clients concerned about extensions pulling out their natural lashes prematurely, causing long-term damage. Again, reassure your client of your dedication to maintaining healthy lashes through proper extension selection. You might even find that some clients improve their lash health with extensions because they are no longer rubbing their eyes, curling their lashes, or applying and removing coats of mascara or strip lashes!

Trust is an essential contributor to long-lasting client relationships. Clients want to feel that you genuinely care about them and the health of their natural lashes, so don’t be afraid to educate them on the growth cycle and your dedication to ensuring a damage-free experience. What better way to build rapport than to share your expertise to help them maximize their knowledge and enjoy healthy lashes for years to come?

Erin Soletski is co-founder of LashBeePro, an eyelash extension training and products company with a focus on natural beauty, quality, and innovation. LashBeePro’s mission is to equip and empower lash artists to bring more beauty into the world. Erin also co-owns LashBee, a multi-award winning lash and brow studio in downtown Philadelphia.

Prior to opening LashBee, she received her MBA from the Wharton School of Business after years working in consulting, supply chain, and operations. She comes from a family of entrepreneurs and beauty professionals.

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