LNE & Spa August 2018

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LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals August 2018

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Not a facial

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from the

editor

Bio-Therapeutic

TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED

SKIN CARE

Of all the services we provide for our clients - from facials to waxing, lashes and makeup – sometimes the most appreciated is simply that we provide an escape. As soon as a client is in our treatment room, time stops and it’s all about them. And the relationship that we build with our clients over the years, month by month, is the true power of the esthetician. To build a positive relationship with a client, we have to provide them with a positive and impactful experience. This month’s guide: Herbs & Aromatherapy, outlines a path to your clients’ great escape from stress, anxiety and worry. Whether you are a medical spa or a waxing specialist, taking the time to infuse your client with wellness before or after their service will leave an impression beyond the results of your service. As always, I look forward to hearing how this

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month’s guide inspired a new ritual or practice

6

in your spa, and I hope to connect with many of you at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa in Long Beach next month, on September 23rd and 24th!

All the best,

bio-therapeutic.com

Cristina Beecham Managing Editor

mcristina@LNEonline.com August2018

LNEonline.com


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August volume 33 number 8

contents 48

Mood Booster

16 Hyaluronic Acid

52

Herbal Remedies for Estheticians

58

Aromatic Escapes

62

Aromatherapy Photo Feature

22 Skin News

12 Dehydration

spa

24

guide

12 Dehydration

47 Herbs & Aromatherapy

Felicite Day Spa, Robinson

66

Oh, Holy Basil!

Township, PA

72

Organic & Wellness News

28

Dry Brushing

32

Spa News

o&w

skin

6 From the Editor 82 Advertiser Index

28 Dry Brushing Behind The Spa Door with Kayla Vickrey 40

Hello, SEO!

46

Tradeshow Talk

40 Hello, SEO!

image

business

36

66 Oh, Holy Basil!

76

Set It For Summer!

80

Image News

76 Set It For Summer!

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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The 2018 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, LONG BEACH, CA Long Beach Convention Center September 23 & 24, 2018 Booths: (129,131) The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, MIAMI, FL Hyatt Regency Hotel and James L. Knight Center October 28 & 29, 2018 Booths: (118,119,122,123) DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA SHOWROOM CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS MIAMI BEACH FLORIDA SHOWROOM LABORATORY / FACTORY / SHOWROOM Coral Trace Office Park, 407 Lincoln Road, Suite 10J, 44 Executive Blvd., 2605 West Atlantic Avenue, Suite C-102 Miami Beach, FL 33139, USA Farmingdale, NY 11735, USA Delray Beach, FL 33445, USA 1 (305) 674.1333 1 (631) 454.0444 1 (561) 272.2008 1 (800) 263.5743 1 (800) 345.3448 1 (866) 392.4889 1 (305) 674.1184 (FAX) 1 (631) 454.0445 (FAX) 1 (561) 272.2014 (FAX) ©2018 Lady Burd® Exclusive Cosmetics, Inc. sales@ladyburd.com www.ladyburd.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card


A L L A C C E S S

PRINT + DIGITAL SUBSCRIBE TODAY

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USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Carrie Borzillo Cassandra Lanning Cristina Beecham

V I S I T

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Kayla Vickrey Kim Kelder Mika Diaz

Rachael Pontillo Tanis Rhines Terry Carter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.


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Dehydration How inadequate water and essential fatty acids leads to impaired enzyme activity by Cassandra Lanning LME, NTP, CPE, CLT

It is well known that hydration is essential for healthy, beautiful skin. Clients are encouraged to hydrate well before and after services, and in their daily lives. But what exactly are the consequences of dehydration on the skin? Without properly sustained hydration, skin cells cannot function properly, and enzyme activity is impaired. Water is crucial to our skin cells’ basic functions. Not only is proper water intake essential to supporting the health of skin cells, but topical hydration is also a key component to healthy skin function. Let’s explore the very important reason that clients should drink more water, eat more fats, and use their hydrating serum and moisturizer:

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skin Dehydration

Impaired Enzyme Activity "Impaired Enzyme Activity is the new terminology for dehydration. When skin is dehydrated, there is no enzyme activity. Without enzyme activity, nothing happens. Enzymatic and chemical activity in the skin happen in the presence of a water-based gel or substance like NMFs or GAGs. Without NMFs or GAGs, no enzyme activity will occur. In order to retain water for enzyme activity, the skin lipid phases must be intact. The water-soluble phases of skin are absolutely necessary for most of a cell's actions and skin health. By ensuring the lipid phases are intact, you can slow down and retain the water movement through the skin." This quote is paraphrased from Florence Barrett Hill’s Advanced Skin Analysis. Proper nutrition and hydration is essential to enzyme function, skin cell action and overall skin health. By taking their Omega 3s and eating egg yolks and chicken skin, for example, clients can build strong healthy cell membranes and lipid bilayers. The cell membrane eventually becomes the

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stratum corneum, and the healthier it is when it is developing, the healthier the stratum corneum will be at the end of the keratinocytes life when it becomes a corneocyte. Consider this the domino effect of hydration. Healthy habits lead to healthy cells, which leads to beautiful skin. Lipids, Lipids, Lipids! Any kind of damage to lipids, or the incorrect fats/oils eaten, will have a significant impact on skin because they are so integral to skin health. Damage to intercellular lipids, or incorrect fats/ oils eaten, weakens the skin’s barrier function. A compromised barrier makes skin more easily irritated and prone to infection. Water loss is also much greater when the lipid barrier is damaged. This is where trans-epidermal water loss comes from. That water loss leads to dehydrated, flaky, itchy, hot, or burning skin. The most effective lipids for skin are the ones that are most identical to

the epidermal lipids: ceramides (sphingolipids), cholesterol, and fatty acids. The ideal ratio of these lipids is the ratio that they are found in skin, which is roughly: 50% Ceramides 25% Cholesterol 25% Fatty Acids Ceramides can be acquired from eating chicken skin, which contains sphingolipids. Sphingolipids, also called glycosylceramides: a) are involved in intracellular signaling b) they protect against colon cancer c) they inhibit cholesterol absorption and synthesis in the intestine d) and they are antimicrobial Butter also contains sphingolipids (as well as butyric acid which heals the colon lining).


skin Dehydration Ceramides can be applied topically in the form of creams and serums. Cholesterol and Fatty Acids Cholesterol is found in egg yolks. Cholesterol is not only the most common organic molecule in the brain, but it is also distributed intimately throughout the entire body. It is an essential constituent of the membrane surrounding every cell. The presence of cholesterol in this fatty double layer of the cell wall adjusts the fluid level and rigidity of this membrane to the proper value for both cell stability and function. Applied topically, cholesterol in cosmetics can help maintain the skin’s normal function and help to prevent trans-epidermal water loss. Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) must be obtained through food or applied topically (the body cannot synthesize it). So, it is important to eat a diet with an adequate amount of EFA’s for good skin health. A deficiency of essential fatty acids can cause skin problems, such as dry skin, dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis, as well as numerous health disorders. Omega 3 and Omega 6 are the Essential Fatty Acids (EFA’s) important

for skin health. Both Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids act as potent anti-inflammatory agents. Studies have shown they are helpful for people with inflammatory diseases, such as arthritis, diabetes, and asthma. But since most people get an over abundance of Omega 6s in their Standard American Diet, reducing the Omega 6s and increasing the Omega 3s is beneficial for most people. EFA’s can be found in hemp oils, grass-fed meat, fish, egg yolks, nuts, and seeds. Topical Omega 3 oils include kiwi seed oil, flax seed oil, and hemp seed oil.

fats to keep their lipid layers intact and hold in their water intake. The addition of a glucosamine supplement can also help with retaining hydration in the skin and joints, as glucosamine helps with building GAGs (glycosaminoglycans). Resources: 1. Florence Barrett-Hill, Advanced Skin Analysis, Pastiche Resources, www.pastiche-training.com 2. The Renegade Esthetician, www. therenegadeesthetician.com 3. HealthyEating Politics - High Cholesterol, http://www.healthy-eating-politics.com/high-cholesterol.html

Bottom Line Cassandra Lanning LME,

Clients should be encouraged to drink plenty of water daily. Educating your clients on just how dehydration affects their skin will help drive this point home. There are many variations in recommended water intake, so choose whichever number agrees with you best. As long as your clients are mindful of their hydration levels and incorporate a healthy amount of good fats into their diet, healthy skin function shouldn’t be hard to achieve. Clients should eat plenty of healthy

N T P, C P E , C LT, " T h e

Renegade Esthetician," Cassandra is a Master Esthetician and Nutritional Therapy Practitioner in the state of Washington. She has 20 years of experience in the beauty industry including electrolysis, laser hair removal, skincare, nutrition, and teaching. She is a member of the International Association for Applied Corneotherapy, the Association for Holistic Skin Care Practitioners, and the National Aesthetic Spa Network.

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Hyaluronic

Acid

Wear It, Inject It, Eat It! by Tanis Rhines

“Aging skin is skin that is losing its ability to hold water.” When first hearing this statement, upon which Dr. Murad’s anti-aging philosophy is based, one might be inclined to think that the easy remedy to this parched predicament is to simply drink more water. But unfortunately, after the body has reached its natural saturation point, drinking more simply means more trips to the potty and not necessarily more supple skin. (By the way, a quick way to determine hydration levels is by the color of your urine; the more close to clear it is, the higher the hydration.)[1] So if you are determined to find ways to trick the skin into staying as positively plump as possible without having to move to the tropics, it’s time to get acquainted with the miracle molecule, hyaluronic acid.

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skin Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid (HA), is a “goo” molecule; a polymer of disaccharides (two sugars) which are glucuronic acid and glucosamine. You have probably heard of the latter as a supplement for joint lubrication and health. Together along with silicon, they form the ultimate hydrating particle which can hold 1,000 times its weight in water! It is produced in the body, offering a natural way to keep skin youthful without the introduction of toxic skin products. It is highest in concentration in the skin, joints, eye sockets, and other tissues where it helps retain water and collagen, providing elasticity and flexibility. HA is a key piece of the biological scaffolds upon which new cells are constructed during skin wound repair and is also involved in the inflammatory response. Otherwise known as sodium hyaluronate (the salt of HA that is smaller

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and able to penetrate the epidermis) and hyaluronan, it was first used as an eye lube and now has slipped its way into all kinds of creams to hydrate skin. It is considered a miracle moisturizer because it is able to address both intrinsic chronoaging (aging caused by father time) and extrinsic photoaging (exposure to sun and other oxidative stressors). But unfortunately, as we age, the amount of hyaluronic acid in our tissues begins to decline. Also, when skin is exposed to excessive UVB rays, it becomes inflamed - what we recognize as a sunburn. This causes the cells in the dermis to produce less hyaluronan[2], further reducing their ability to retain water and then, just like Dr. Murad said, we have “aging skin.” Just one more reason to encourage the consistent use of sunblock. Even better - a sun cream that includes HA.

• Wear It The easiest way to incorporate hyaluronic acid into your client’s beauty regimen is to choose products containing this plumping polymer. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, drawing water out of the environment and locking it onto the surface of the skin. These products help to naturally prevent transepidermal water loss, reducing the signs of aging such as wrinkles, flakiness and dryness. A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology indicated that a Swiss product that incorporates five different molecular weights of HA was “able to provide an improvement in the appearance of chronoaged skin in subjects showing mild-to-moderate clinical signs of ageing skin on the face.”[3] Some study participants reported increased cheek volume and fuller lips; two traits associated with youthfulness.


skin Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, drawing water out of the environment and locking it onto the surface of the skin.

Concentrated serums and eye creams may yield improvements in as little as two to four weeks, but many immediately report dewier and smoother skin right after application.

• Inject It The most highly researched benefit of hyaluronic acid is its ability to alleviate aching joints. In 2007, the EMA (Europe’s equivalent of the FDA) approved Hylan-GF20 as an injectable treatment for ankle and shoulder osteoarthritis pain. It is a major component of cartilage and synovial fluid that bathes the joints with a thick gelatinous liquid allowing bones to glide and cartilage to act like shock absorbers. When HA levels drop, dryness sets in and so do creaks, degenerative joint disease and pain. The re-introduction of it in the form of a “lube job” buffers bones, provides resistance to wear and tear and keeps things working smoothly. Speaking of smooth, it is also be-

ing injected into the dermis to fill out wrinkles (thus its general name in the beauty industry, “filler”). Since it normally exists in our tissue, HA is a safe way to fill in creases such as the laugh lines between our nose and mouth (nasolabial folds) and inflate areas of hollowness on cheeks and even puff your pout. Nearly all challenges with the product come from the actual injection itself, as HA is compatible with the human body. So what kind of complications are most common? Bruising and swelling, and there is often substantial pain during injection, but these go away with time. Yes, there are possibilities of other needle blunders and even a chance that your body will have a less than ideal response and these have been noted in the Journal of Dermatology & Dermatologic Surgery.[4] But, the biggest filler faux pas that can be avoided is by heeding to that age old adage that “less is more.” Remember, when Mae

West said “Too much of a good thing can be wonderful,” fillers had not been invented! But even over-injection with too much product can be immediately corrected with the enzyme that breaks down HA, known as hyaluronidase. So, if your clients are ready to pull’er into the station and filler’up - than the following considerations are recommended. First, stick with an FDA approved product. Second, there is a variation in the degree of cross linking and molecular weight and therefore densities of different HA products. Generally speaking, the more dense products are better for larger areas where more volume and firmness may be desired such as the cheeks. These denser varieties also tend to last longer. Medium dense products are suitable for the nasolabial folds, and less dense forms do well in the lip area and under eyes in the “tear troughs.” Third, find a highly skilled injector with lots of experience. There is an artform to injection, and identifying an individual who has mastered their craft is worth the time and effort.

• Eat It Now here is the fun part that most of your clients do not know about. Hyaluronic acid is edible! Oral hyaluronic acid is relatively cheap and as simple as placing an order on the internet and doing an add-on to your morning smoothie. You can soothe joints, hydrate tissues and, in the least,

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skin Hyaluronic Acid lube your digestive tube with one big blob of berry flavored goo in your favorite beverage. So here is how it works. When taken orally, especially in the liquid form, hyaluronic acid ramps up your own body’s natural production of this protective polymer presenting a non-invasive therapy for alleviating the symptoms of osteoarthritis.[5] It has also been shown that the molecules can actually be absorbed and are available to the human body.[6] Mix it in with a little glucosamine (the other sugar of the disaccharide pair that links together with glucuronic acid to make HA) and you’ve got a repair system that even Jiffy Lube would be proud of. There is scientific support that oral supplementation with hyaluronic acid is useful in maintaining skin elasticity,[7] joint flexibility,[8] and sharp vision[9] among adults. Furthermore, HA also stimulates collagen production - so clients will be plump and firm. Win-win!

1. Armstrong LE, Maresh CM, Castellani JW, Bergeron MF, Kenefick RW, LaGasse KE, Riebe D. 1994. “Urinary indices of hydration status”. Int J Sport Nutr. Sep;4(3):265-79. 2. Averbeck M, Gebhardt CA, Voigt S, Beilharz S, Anderegg U, Termeer CC, Sleeman JP, Simon JC. 2007. "Differential regulation of hyaluronan metabolism in the epidermal and dermal compartments of human skin by UVB irradiation". J Invest Dermatol. 127 (3): 687–97. 3. Nobile V, Buonocore D, Michelotti A, Marzatico F. 2014. “Anti-aging and filling efficacy of six types hyaluronic acid based der-

6. William, Judy, “Clinical study shows hyaluronic acid in BioCell Collagen II® found to have significant absorption and bioavailability”. SIBR. February, 2 2004. 7. Sakai S, Yasuda R, Sayo T, Inoue S, Ishikawa O. 2000. “Hyaluronan exists in the normal stratum corneum”. J Invest Dermatol. 114(6): 1184-87. 8. Artificial Organs 18: 420-24, 1994; Current Review Pain, 4:356-61, 2000; Reg Anesthesia Pain Medicine 24: 84-88, 1999. 9. Archives Opthamology 111:963-67, 1993; Medical Hypotheses 51:483-84, 1998.

mo-cosmetic treatment: double blind, ran-

Tanis Rhines is a Cellular and

domized clinical trial of efficacy and safety”.

Molecular Scientist turned

J Cosmet Dermatol. Dec;13(4): 277-87.

Esthetician revealing the truth

4. Abduljabbara MH, Basendwh MA. 2016. “Complications

of

hyaluronic

acid

fill-

about all things esthetic. She is

ers and their managements”. Journal of

the founder of The Garden Spa'T Organic

Dermatology

Skin Care and a prolific writer - tackling

&

Dermatologic

Surgery.

July;21(2): 100-106.

topics as a biotechnologist, breaking down

5. Tashiro T, Seino S, Sato T, Matsuoka R,

Masuda

Y,

Fukui

N.

2012.

“Oral

Administration of Polymer Hyaluronic Acid Alleviates Symptoms of Knee Osteoarthritis:

the data and revealing its application to skincare; often in a humorous but always in an honest way. Rhines is known as the

A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study

“Organic Beauty Scientist” and is passion-

over a 12-Month Period”. Scientific World

ate about busting myths and educating

Journal. 2012:167928.

people to be brainy about their beauty.

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ETERNALLY PINK RevitaLashÂŽ Cosmetics honors the courage and strength of our Co-Founder, Gayle Brinkenhoff, and that of women everywhere by supporting breast cancer awareness, research and education initiatives year-round, not just in October. This is our Eternally Pink Pledge.

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Oh So Cooling

The Peptide Aqua Gel Mask gel sheets by Clinical Resolution Lab provide temporary occlusion and protection for proper skin recovery. Infused with clinically proven ingredients, including Hydrolyzed Collagen, PlantDerived Stem Cell Extracts, and Sodium Hyaluronate, Peptide Aqua Gel Mask is the choice for skin rejuvenation. The combination of Hydro-Cooling Gel Technology and soothing ingredients provide a pleasantly relaxing experience after microneedling or other clinical treatments

877.566.9687 clinicalresolution.com

Hello, Hyaluronic

IMAGE Skincare’s new AGELESS Total Pure Hyaluronic 6 Filler has six forms of hyaluronic acids to plump skin without injections. It also boasts time released hyaluronic acid for five times the moisturizing of standard HAs. This concentrated topical filler acts as a magnet for moisture, providing both instant and time released skin hydration. Restore fullness, fill in fine lines and reshape face contours without an injection.

800.796.7546 Imageskincare.com

Skin

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

Cool As A Cucumber

The Hydro-Soothing Serum from Sesha Skin will feed skin the nourishment it needs. This serum is very healing, hydrating, and calming. Formulated with Green Tea Leaf, Cucumber, and Aloe Leaf, this serum will soothe the most inflamed skin. Using five plus anti-inflammatory ingredients along with their P.E.T. delivery system makes this a great choice for calming any skin type.

1.888.977.3742 seshaskin.com

Pump It Up With Collagen

Martinni Beauty’s Collagen Elastin Gel Pump contains Marine collagen and soy protein to increase skin’s elasticity. It deeply moisturizes dehydrated skin, tones eye bags, and smoothes fine lines and wrinkles. Use as a mask or a base for peel off masks. It can also be used with galvanic, micro-current, IPL, laser or ultrasonic treatments.

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Felicite Day Spa Robinson Township, PA

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Where beauty meets bliss

SPA OF THE MONTH

by Cristina Beecham

Spa goers looking for the most advanced medi-spa treatments in a true, relaxation-focused atmosphere will find the culmination of their desires at Felicite Day Spa in Robinson Township, Pennsylvania. With a top-notch team of licensed estheticians, certified esthetic laser technicians, nail technicians and massage therapists, Felicite Day Spa offers skin care and body treatments meant to relax, renew and reveal beauty within their clients. Felicite (French for bliss) was created as an outlet for women to gather together to take time for themselves to relax and gain self-confidence by enhancing their inner and outer beauty. The goal is to provide cutting edge, state of the art treatments, but in a comfortable, and relaxing environment.

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spa Spa of The Month

Signature Treatment

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Felicite Day Spa’s most popular facial treatment is their HydraFacial Treatment (30-45min, $150). Spa Director Michelle Lucas explains that “HydraFacial uses patented technology to cleanse, exfoliate, extract and hydrate the skin. We use super serums made with nourishing ingredients to create an instantly gratifying glow.” With a combination of Salicylic and Glycolic acids, Felicite’s HydraFacial treatment is effective for all skin types. Michelle adds, “We believe in no pain, and all gain. So we make sure our customers enjoy the experience and delight in the results. We know our customers always want to be their best selves, and HydraFacial helps them get there.”

a program called "Perkville." Our clients earn points for every dollar that they spend with us, and can earn points for checking in on Facebook, referring friends, online booking, etc. They can then redeem their points for coupons or save them for free future services.” The spa also makes use of social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram, where they have gained a following of over 2,500. Their Facebook and Instagram profiles are filled with a variety of content, from informational skin care posts, to holiday-themed photos and in-spa celebrations. Spa Director Michelle says, “We post a lot on social media and do a lot of email and text message marketing.”

Marketing

Training

Felicite Day Spa attracts new clients, first and foremost, by rewarding current clients for referrals. Michelle explains, “We encourage clients to revisit by rewarding them for their loyalty, with

With a wide variety of licensed specialists, it is important for any spa to keep their staff trained and up-to-date on the latest technology in their respective fields. Spa Director Michelle explains,

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“Our vendors provide trainings for our staff for service and product knowledge.” Staff performance is reviewed on an on-going basis. “After every client visit,” Michelle explains, “our clients get an email asking them to provide feedback on their experience with us and we ask them to leave us a review (good or bad). These reviews are read on a daily basis and are used to coach employees on what they are doing well and areas where they can improve!” Employees at Felicite Day Spa are commission based. Along with the Spa Director, “revenue goals are set, and if met, a profit share is paid out at the end of the year.” Michelle adds, “When we launch new services, employees are given bonuses for selling packages to their clients.”

Special Events At Felicite Day Spa, there’s always cause for celebration! From the launch of a new product, to annual women’s events


spa Spa of The Month

as well as educational and brand support.” Clients are incentivized to make retail purchases based on a rewards program. Michelle explains, “Clients earn points in our rewards program when they purchase retail products. We educate them on why they should purchase professional grade products, as well as educate them on proper usage of the products to maximize great results!"

Client Ratio: 80 percent women; 20 percent men Awards: “Best in Class;” “Top Local Rated Spa”

INSIGHT

and holidays, Spa Director Michelle loves to host clients and locals for an evening of fun: “We always do launch parties for new services and try to hold open houses on a quarterly basis as well as participate in annual events, like the Pittsburgh Bridal Showcase and Women’s Health Expo. On Black Friday, we offer buy-one-get-one on treatments and gift cards.” Spa events are no small task, and can often take several weeks or months to prep. In order to stay on top of things, Michelle plans special events “about six weeks in advance, and we revamp these events every year to stay in line with current beauty and market trends!”

Revenue & Retail Retail is an important aspect of a day spa’s revenue. Felicite Day Spa is no exception. Spa Director Michelle makes product selections based on “best in class and innovative skin care products,

In her years as an esthetician and spa owner/director, Michelle has gained valuable insight and wisdom on running a business, dealing with clients, and fulfilling your life’s passion. Her biggest piece of advice is: “Dealing with the public isn’t always easy, but it can be rewarding! It’s okay to 'fire a client' if they aren’t respectful of you and your staff’s time. Coaching young estheticians and spa professionals on how to grow and book isn’t easy, but it can also be rewarding! Take the time to coach them not only on products, but also on professional development and common sense skills to help them grow personally and professionally.”

Spa Director Spotlight: Michelle

Lucas

is

a

Licensed

Esthetician who holds a Bachelor of Science Degree from the University of Texas at Austin. She is a certified PCA Skin Professional, Certified Aesthetic Laser Technician, Certified HydraFacial Technician, and is also certified in eyelash extensions and permanent makeup. She has al-

Rundown Felicite Day Spa 5827 Steubenville Pike Robinson Twp, PA 15136 felicitedayspa.com (412) 788 – 4772

ways had a love for nutrition and wellness, and developed a love for skin care and aesthetics through years of working in dermatology as a pharmaceutical sales professional.

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of

Launch: 2011

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also

Spa Owner: Michelle Lucas

for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source

Facilities: Five treatment rooms; large relaxation room

theticians give their clients. Please connect

a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for inspiration in progressing the gift that eswith her at mcristina@lneonline.com

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Dry brushing has been used for centuries across many cultures to remove dead skin and stimulate circulation in the bloodstream. Ancient Greek, Japanese, and American Aboriginal cultures have been known to rub sand against their skin for exfoliation, an early form of dry brushing. Today, dry brushing has risen to the forefront of the beauty scene for its amazing results and lasting benefits. I encourage my clients at Miraval Arizona, one of the leading destination spas in the country, to dry brush a few times a week to improve their skin’s appearance and enhance their overall well-being.

Dry

Brushing Why this circulation boosting spa treatment is on the rise by Kim Kelder

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spa Dry Brushing

Growing In Popularity Dry brushing has gained popularity because it helps exfoliate skin and create a radiance that is perfect for the summer months when our skin is front and center. This practice should be an important part of your client’s beauty routine because it encourages new cell turnover and aids in renewing the skin and its texture. As your largest organ, the skin is the passageway for most of the impurities that enter your body. Internally, dry brushing helps get rid of the toxins and excess minerals underneath the skin’s visible surface. It’s not meant to irritate the skin and if your client does it often, it is the perfect internal stimulant. Dry brushing is a great addition to anyone’s beauty routine, as it helps shed dead skin cells, allowing skin care products such as lotions, body oils and creams to more easily penetrate the skin for the best possible results. It’s best for your clients to dry brush be-

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fore showering so they can wash off the dead skin cells they’re removing. After the shower, it’s best to use a moisturizer to hydrate the skin and aid in cellular turnover.

Bottom Up Brushing When dry brushing, your clients should start from the feet first, working upward in circular motions. Moving with long fluid strokes towards the heart will circulate blood flow. There’s no need to apply extra pressure, as the brush will do all the work. Dry brushing will only take about three to five minutes and for the best results, it’s suggested to dry brush every day with the proper care before and after. The brush your clients use is just as important as the technique. Make sure they are using a body brush that has natural bristles and is designed to be in contact with the skin. Brushes with natu-

ral bristles will be just the right texture to properly exfoliate without damaging or scratching the skin. For daily care, the body brush should always be kept dry and out of the shower. Because the brush will be used often, it should be washed every week to remove the dead skin cells. Once clean, the brush should be dried off diligently. Body brushes should be replaced every six months.

Consistent Benefits If consistently incorporated into your clients’ skin care routines, dry brushing can provide a myriad of health benefits. Most importantly, dry brushing will increase circulation and help reduce the appearance of cellulite, an accumulation of unsightly fat cells. Dry brushing will tighten and tone the skin for a more youthful and radiant appearance. It will also unclog pores, releasing trapped toxins and oils. For the best


spa Dry Brushing evident quicker than others. If your clients stay consistent with the practice and remain patient throughout the process, they will improve the body inside and out. Dry brushing will produce long-term benefits for your clients, which include enhancing their immune system, rejuvenating their blood flow, recharging their daily energy and improving their skin’s overall appearance. This age-old practice will guide your clients towards a more balanced life in mind, body and spirit. Kimberly Kelder is Miraval Arizona’s Lead Aesthetician with over 20 years of experience—15 of those years at Miraval. After receiving her first facial, she was mesmerized by the way her skin felt and looked. Kim quickly realized that she wanted to learn how to make other people feel as transformed as she did. She studied at Allure College of Beauty in Tucson, Arizona specializing in Aesthetics.

results, your clients should dry brush in the morning to get the blood flowing and reenergize the skin.

Lymphatic Drainage

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #132 on reader service card

Perhaps the most important benefit of dry brushing is its effects on lymphatic drainage and blood flow. Dry brushing is like a daily detox for your entire body and is extremely beneficial for all areas of your clients’ health. For example, dry brushing can help prevent minor colds as well as reduce water retention. If done often, the lymph system will be able to flow easily and swelling throughout the body will decrease. Most importantly, a stimulated lymphatic system helps improve the metabolism, increasing the overall health and well-being of your clients. Dry brushing also helps boost the nervous system and stimulate nerve endings, the sensory points on the surface of the skin which send messages to the brain. Doing it daily is like cardio for your clients’ skin. As a result, the body will feel rejuvenated and awake. The nervous system controls all body functions and reacts to sensory impulses. Dry brushing techniques provide a gentle internal massage that provides benefits for all organs. It also increases the blood flow which results in increased energy and a decrease in stress. To maximize this experience, your clients should use a dry brush with a long handle, so they can reach those distant areas like the back to truly awaken the entire body.

Contraindications When dry brushing, be sure that your clients avoid any wounds or sensitive areas on the skin. If the skin appears red or stings, this is a sign that they have applied too much pressure. When done correctly, the skin may appear slightly pink immediately after brushing and then return to its normal tone shortly after. Remember that some benefits of dry brushing may become

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Ultra Antioxidants!

PFB’s new formula is designed for the mature client with deeper and more stubborn dark spots. Enhanced with antioxidant power to provide even more brightening and protective properties, ULTRA will become your ultimate anti-aging body care product. It will provide relief of ingrown hair, razor burn and bumps resulting from waxing, shaving, electrolysis, laser, sugaring, tweezing and threading, in addition to providing antiinflammatory effects and regulating the pH of skin: two critical features of a post-hair removal serum.

877.225.0233 pfbvanish.com

Hand Held Hero

UVBioTek announces the launch of a new line of hand-held LED therapy products that support their newest brand, POLY LED Light Therapy. The hand-held products, named “POLY Go,” are mobile light therapy devices that utilize multiple wavelengths that are clinically proven to cater to those with acne, fine-line wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, under-eye bags, collagen depletion issues, and even pain, swelling, and redness. POLY Go, like the clinical and spa version POLY, offers the option to change light heads to address several conditions for a variety of client needs.

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

518.747.7527 mypolyled.com

SPA August2018

The Equipro Ergonomic Stool has the shape of a saddle. This cushion is manufactured to improve blood circulation at the thigh level. The backrest of the chair is adjustable at its height and depth. There are four kinds of pistons for different types of treatments (pedicudres, facials, etc.). This stool is equipped with a stable base with five legs. It comes with silent rubber wheels that won’t scratch the floor and won’t make noise during professional treatments. There are a variety of colors available if you want to personalize your equipment!

877.324.2226 Equipro-bty.com

Hello, Hair Care!

RevitaLash® Cosmetics has officially introduced their new Hair Care Collection. Comprised of a Thickening Shampoo, Thickening Conditioner and Hair Volume Enhancing Foam, this three-product assortment will supplement the brand’s award-winning lash and brow products and provide an unrivaled solution to revive fine and thinning hair, for both men and women. Offering unique volumizing formulas, the Thickening Shampoo and Conditioner feature ingredients to optimize scalp health. The cleansing and hydrating properties of this duo transform hair to feel fuller, look thicker and improve overall health of the strands.

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 32

Take A Seat

877.909.5274 Revitalash.com LNEonline.com


DIAMOND SERUM CREAM EYE CONTOUR

WHEN LUXURY MEETS TECHNOLOGY SCULPT PERFECT LOOKING SKIN by targeting 4 main aspects: •

RADIANCE

SMOOTH SKIN TEXTURE

YOUNGER LOOK

SENSATION OF PURITY

Exclusively in G.M. Collin spas. Visit www.gmcollin.com to locate a spa near you. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #115 on reader service card


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LONG BEACH, CA Sept 23 & 24, 2018 Long Beach Convention Center The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Business • Wellness • Mindfulness • Retail • Makeup Trends Marketing • Social Media • Workshops • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities

SPONSORED BY

Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com USA: 305.443.2322 / FAX: 305.443.1664

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Behind

The Spa Door with Kayla Vickrey, Owner of Skin Care by Kayla Marie CONCEPT

How would you define the concept of your spa?

The concept of my spa is serenity. In our world today, we don’t take even five minutes to relax without our phones. I created a space that is girly and simple with little thinking distractions on the walls. I do my best to only talk if my guest wants to, so they can truly release and relax.

What are the most popular treatments?

My most popular treatment is my 60 Minute Custom Facial, followed by face and bikini Sugaring Hair Removal. I charge by the hour for my facial treatments because that allows me to cater specifically to my guests needs that day and use whatever modalities are needed without up-charging. 36

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FACILITY

How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there?

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life?

What is the ratio of each treatment room/amenity compared to the rest of the facility?

What takes most of your time every day?

I currently have two treatment rooms, one for myself and another for a massage therapist.

We are actually located inside of a charming home that has other salon and spa tenants in it, so our rooms are our whole business!

I do my best to give myself ample time between clients to help keep my stress level lower. I love dance cardio based workouts and walking with my husband, which releases stress too!

Logging transactions, client notes and laundry. Detailed records make my life easier, help me feel on top of things and help me to serve my guests better!

LEADERSHIP ROLE

TEAM BUILDING

What daily challenges do you encounter in your position?

How many employees do you have and what are their specialties?

I encounter what every business owner does. Offering treatments to my clients while doing laundry, answering the phone and responding to emails all day. As well as restocking retail and keeping everything clean.

I currently have myself, and one independent contractor, Emily. Her and I have been friends for six years and we actually shared a room years ago when we were just getting started! She gives

Detailed records make my life easier, and help me feel on top of things! the best massages and after a few years working apart, it only seemed right to have the best of the best join me!

What is your hiring process?

I will have another esthetician joining me this year and she is a friend as well. But just because we are friends does not mean we’re not all business when it comes to business! I have a detailed contract that each contractor signs to

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business Behind The Spa Door

use my space. We may be independent, but we are a team, referring our guests to each other and helping each other out when we can.

How do you select the people that are going to be working with you?

Hiring people I know and trust will always be my hope. To know their way of working, their character and way of life matches with my vision.

How do you evaluate employees?

I evaluate my contractor every couple of months, checking if she has any problems with her space, if she needs any supplies or has any other frustration I can help resolve.

How do you keep your employees happy/incentivized?

Regular check-ins are important for contractor happiness. I give birthday gifts, product samples and have dinner with my contractors a couple times a year. RETAIL

What are your retail goals?

To service my client. I am not selling to sell, I am providing the tools to fix a problem and solve my guests’ skin care problems. Because I communicate this as I recommend product, I often sell multiple products to each client. Education is KEY. To explain the why of what the product will do, what is in it and why one needs it. I also write out a detailed instruction sheet for each client and check in with them a couple of days after their appointment.

Where is the retail area located and how does it compare to the rest of the spa?

Retail is currently in our spa spaces. On antique cabinets or simple wood shelves. Clean layout, easy to access, and never too overwhelming. I also 38

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make print outs of product highlights and tips. I chose a simple setup because my clients don’t have time to browse like a spa with a waiting and retail area. I pull the products they need and begin explaining what it will do for their skin once their treatment is complete, keeping their treatment time separate for relaxation.

don’t discount services or offer many specials. I price my services at what I believe is fair and because of that, I hope to keep my clients for life. Many send their friends and family and I have built my book with their referrals and the support of other spa professionals. My mom taught me how to use google search engine key words and I get many clients from google or yelp, for free!

MARKETING & PUBLICITY

What can you tell us about your marketing techniques? What do you focus on, where do you spend the most money, and why?

I market on Facebook and Instagram, but word of mouth and my website are mostly how my business grows! I

EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE

How do you keep clients loyal and consistent?

Going the extra mile. A hand or back massage after a facial, or makeup application. Offering them a hot towel, antiseptic towelette and thoroughly covering post treatment instructions


business Behind The Spa Door

after a sugaring appointment. It sounds like common sense, however it is common for guests to come from another spa having never heard how to treat their skin.

What incentives do you offer to your clients to be sure they come back again?

I offer my clients a competitive price and experience that brings them back! I give them a 25 percent off coupon at Christmas, which they love. I often give out samples of new makeup products as well. TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS

What are the most important lessons have you learned from failures or challenges that you can share with others in your career path?

I worked at multiple places that were poorly run at the start of my career and they ended badly. As hurtful as they were, I have learned so much of how I did or did not want to run my business from those experiences. The most important lesson I learned for sure is to be me. I am a quiet, introverted woman who loves a holistic approach to treating the skin. Some guests will love that, and others won’t. There are enough clients to go around and I want my guests to be happy so if someone doesn’t love me, it’s okay.

What advice could you give to someone who would like to manage a spa?

If you’re stuck and you’re not happy, keep learning. Follow other estheticians on Instagram, take classes and when it’s time to jump, jump! You will never know if you never try! Better to fail trying than never try at all and live in regret.

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Hello,

SEO! The little things you can do to improve your SEO & content strategy by Mika Diaz Looking for a way to go viral on Google with the beautiful imagery you already have on file of your Spa? Everyone is talking about viral video content, but let’s not forget how important visual content is for business. Keep up with the search engines like Google and more. Let’s get to it with a few quick win tactics that will help you up your SEO game in 2018. As a Marketer myself, I always knew my career would be based on continuing education and research. Learning the tricks and hacks of our Internet era is not easy and definitely very time consuming! That’s why I am here to give you a few tips on how to improve your businesses “Search Engine Optimization” strategy, by helping you build your power in search, plan your SEO strategy, optimize your content, and measure real return on investment.

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business Hello, SEO

ages increased clicked through and engagement. In other words, it’s almost like tagging a picture on Instagram or Facebook so it can be easily found on a profile! • PUBLISH UNIQUE DATA Hook your clients and website viewers with some unique data about treatments in your Spa. Industry studies, stats, and data are admired by most journalists and bloggers for citing purposes. For example, publish the popularity of a certain treatment at your spa and hook them up with some stats. This content will not only contain lots of data that they can cite, but will also help attain more media coverage for your business!

• KEYWORD RESEARCH You know those words and phrases you type into your Google search bar… those are keywords! First things first, you need to run an effective keyword search before you get started. Keywords are extremely important for every kind of business, as they are your tool to drive targeted website traffic to your business for FREE. Follow these simple steps to narrow down your search: • Knowing your brand is necessary before moving forward with anything else. Jots down a list of all the keywords and services that apply to your brand. • Start typing several of the keywords and services that apply to your brand on Google. Make sure to clear your cookies to make sure you are getting the latest results! • Find out what your clients are searching for and how many of them are searching for it. It could be a treatment or product line. Keyword search volume will become your best friend. 42

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There are great tools out there for this; you just need to do your research. • Include both long tail (longer phrases) and short tail (three words or less) when picking your keywords. Short tail keywords are broad, but work on driving traffic, while long tail keywords are more targeted and can ensure you are bringing in the traffic you want. • Now that you've selected your keywords, it's a good idea to test them on Google search to confirm they are interpreted correctly. • You are now ready to add your keywords into your website! Add the keywords phrases to the title tag, header, and make sure to write in your direct website content as well. • EMBEDDABLE IMAGES Have you ever heard of an embeddable image? This is just a fancy way of describing how you can integrate links, images, and other content into social media posts or other web media. This content is so important because it then appears as part of a post and supplies the visual element that encour-

• COMMENTS Encourage commenting on your site; it always helps with your Google rankings. They've even said it themselves! Google has mentioned, “Comments are better on-site for engagement signals for SEO than moving to social.” It makes perfect sense that the search engine wants to see that you have an active community on your site. • IN- DEPTH CONTENT The content you provide on your website needs to be what Google wants to see. Publishing content that is at least 2,000 words is a good start. This way, you can cover everything the searcher needs to know about that topic. • LSI WORDS This is a very crucial part of the Google algorithm, helping the search engine get the meaning of your written content, while also dealing with search relevancy. Latent Semantic Indexing are basically keywords that are related to your primary keyword. Google implemented this strategy as way to fight spammers trying to beat the system by using keyword stuffing. Have you ever wondered how search engines differentiate between homonyms? Now you know.


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business Hello, SEO • GOOGLE’S MOBILE FIRST INDEX This basically means Google is considering your mobile website as the “real” version of your site. FYI, this is also the case when people search from a desktop. All content must be consistent across mobile and desktops sites. Make sure your site is the best on mobile! • GO ALL IN WITH VIDEO According to marketer research, Video will take up 80 percent of traffic by 2021. It is important to keep up with marketing trends to fully get expo-

• PAY ATTENTION TO VOICE SEARCH Like I said before, the Internet just keeps evolving and doing your research is very important. That being said, it might be time to start looking into “Voice Search.” The stats for voice search usage are only going up and you do not want to stay behind. Smart SEOs

are starting to optimize their content for voice search. • CONTENT AND LINKS ARE KEY Two of the top ranking factors for search engines are content and links. Without great content, you will never get links and without links you wont be able to rank first on Google. Creating great content is the fun part; so don't be too hard on yourself. Organic and natural content always works well… have fun with it and your viewers will too! That being said, content and links are still the foundation of SEO in 2018. Once your spa or business has a handle on content and links, its time to optimize your website for the new trends you read about above! Don't forget to measure real SEO return on investment by monitoring your search traffic. This way you can see what kind of content is working for you and your audience is seeing exactly what they want to see. • CHANGING TIMES Keep in mind that these are rapidly changing times! Marketing trends can change drastically overnight, which is why I recommend having someone inhouse staying on top of all your digital demands. I also suggest subscribing to marketing, social media, and digital marketing blogs for daily updates to stay in the know! There is no better way of keeping a handle on your business when you know exactly what is going on in the market. It may sound like a lot of work, but there are ways to make it fun. After all, educating yourself on something that will only grow your business becomes the rewarding part!

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sure and perfect your SEO. You can start by tapping into YouTube! Food for thought… Google has started to blend YouTube results into Google Image search.

Mika Diaz is the Director of Marketing for Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa Magazine. Mika studied Business and Fashion in Miami before working in Public Relations. After ten years in the fashion world, she is now taking her talents to the skin care industry.

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Advanced Hydration +

The B3 Hydration Serum takes hydration to another level with high concentration and expertly balanced Sodium Hyaluronate, a skin smoothing peptide, and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). - Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is shown to reduce fine lines, suppress melanin, helping to prevent age spots, freckles, and hyperpigmentation - UV Protection & Increased Elasticity

“Inspired by Nature, Realized by Science” LU C R È C E P H Y S I C I A N S ’ A ES T H ET I C R ES EA R CH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.l u crece . co m Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card


Tradeshow TALK Get the most out of your tradeshow experience with these insider tips!

From

Attendees

Make attending classes and main stage events a priority. They will help to further your education and build or reignite your excitement for this amazing industry. Take snacks and a water bottle. Have FUN and make new friends and contacts!

Take all the generalized education that you can. Some classes are extremely line specific, which is only helpful if you intend to or do carry that line.

Definitely do your homework first so you’re not wasting time at all the booths. Figure out what your main objectives are and start there. Walk the whole floor before buying!

Tradeshows are the best way to connect with new clients. Nothing beats inperson interactions. In fact, over the last five years, almost all of our new business has come from face-to-face sales!

Being able to educate the people using your products on exactly how to get the best results possible is priceless! Clients leave the class feeling more inspired and excited about your brand than before!

There’s so much more to tradeshows than just setting up your booth! Participate in every educational and speaking opportunity. Sponsor a class. Offer free product giveaways. Leave clients with a positive impression of your brand!

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From

Exhibitors


Garden grown ingredients for stress relief and relaxation

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Mood

Booster How aromatherapy transforms a spa treatment into a therapeutic experience by Terry Carter

Imagine going to your dental hygienist for a regular cleaning. Although the dentist is something most of us dread, imagine that your practitioner began the “treatment” by massaging a synergistic blend of essential oils into your temples. He or she presses down firmly on to your shoulders, dismissing the stresses of the day, and pulls on your earlobes, which relaxes you in a way that makes your eyes roll back into your head. Aromatherapy can change your mood – even at the dentist. Essential oils fill spaces with a fragrant element of wellness. Most practitioners and clients are aware of the power of aromatherapy. Many benefits are anecdotal, but there is also science to support the claims.

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Herbs & Aromatherapy guide

How Does Aromatherapy Work? Aromatherapy is thought to work by stimulating smell receptors in the nose, which then send messages through the nervous system to the limbic system — the part of the brain that controls emotions. Aromatherapy can mean different things to different people. To some, it could mean adding essential oils to their home diffuser. To others, it could refer to the lovely combination of smells they experience when entering their favorite spa. The list of ailments commonly treated with aromatherapy is even more wide-ranging. From aiding in the mitigation of nausea, insomnia, and menstrual pain, to reducing the stress and anxiety of flying on airplanes, the use of aromatherapy is a natural, low cost, and non-invasive treatment. Let's explore the various effects, benefits, and applications of this ageold and ever-popular practice. We can distill the benefits of aromatherapy into three areas: energizing, calming and reflective. The goal is to provide options for how you can utilize aromatherapy in both your client’s treatments and your own personal rituals.

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Other energizing essential oils:

• Lemon Lemon's refreshing scent and high level of antioxidant terpenes help decrease blood pressure and uplift your mood. Use in a diffuser for a cleansing and stimulating mid-day boost.

Energizing

• Bergamot

Have you ever visited a eucalyptus steam room? It’s a popular favorite way to relax and treat one’s self after a workout. Many of our clients even begin their mornings at home with a eucalyptus steam shower spray. The warm steam combined with a fragrant cloud of eucalyptus helps us feel prepared for the day ahead. The powerful fragrance is uplifting, as we breathe deeper, expel morning congestion and enjoy a few moments to contemplate (or sing when no one else is around). You’ll find that peppermint also has a similar effect with its strong, mentholated aroma.

Like most citrus oils, bergamot is naturally cleansing and stimulating. Often used in candles, bergamot's fresh, yet spicy scent is a great way to cleanse the room and balance the brain.

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• Thyme English novelist Rudyard Kipling once described the scent of thyme as "dawn in paradise." Historically, thyme has been associated with courage and strength. Medieval warriors would bath in thyme before battle and women would send their knights off to war with a sprig of thyme. Add two drops of thyme essential oil to warm bath

water to increase circulation and combat fatigue.

Calming The stresses of life, work, family and world events can leave us with a great deal of angst. Rest is important and aromatherapy is a tangible way to add calm to your environment. Massages are perhaps the most entry-level form of aromatherapy for those not familiar with the benefits of essential oils. Therapists often have a selection of fragrances they offer to their clients depending on their mood. For an aromatherapeutic massage, we recommend carrier oils of sweet almond, grapeseed or coconut oil. Using a carrier oil is a must for topical essential oil use. Carrier oils will aid to dilute a concentrated essential oil and prevent irritation of the skin.


Herbs & Aromatherapy guide

Using a carrier oil is a must for topical essential oil use.

• Rose Possibly the most recognizable and beloved flower on earth, rose has been used throughout history for its moodelevating and emotion-balancing properties. Create your own rose water spritz by adding six drops off rose essential oil per half cup of water. Spray all over face and body for a relaxing and hydrating treat. We keep a bottle of rose water chilled in the refrigerator at work for staff and guests to enjoy.

Reflective

Try these essential oils when your client needs to slow down and relax:

• Lavender The name lavender derives from Latin ‘lavare’ meaning ‘to wash.” Lavender's sweet floral fragrance and general pleasantness have been used for centuries to provide feelings of calm and well-being. Lavender is often used to aid in reducing headaches and insomnia.

Author Henri Nouwen writes on the necessity and beauty of solitude. In stillness, we can process and resolve. The necessity to slow down and create quiet moments is healing. Taking time to reflect is strengthening. This ultimately allows us to give more to those around us. Aromatherapy is the perfect component for meditation and yoga. Create your own blend that encourages stillness and connection. Mix with water and spray around the room to create a sacred space and push out mental distractions. Mix with a carrier oil and apply to the pulse points of the wrist to add a sensory treat to your practice.

your heart, and remove distractions from your mind.

• Palo Santo Meaning “holy wood” in Spanish, palo santo belongs to the same family as frankincense and has been used for its healing properties for centuries. It is believed to create a feeling of clarity and peace, making it an ideal accompaniment to meditative practices. While it is most common to burn the sweet-smelling wood as incense, palo santo essential oils are also available.

• Cedarwood Believed to be one of the first essential oils ever distilled, cedarwood’s sweet, woodsy aroma helps provide a grounding and comfortable atmosphere for your spiritual practice. Its antiseptic properties make it great for deep, mindful breathing. Please consult a physician prior to using essential oils if pregnant, nursing or experiencing any contraindications. Patch tests on the skin are recommended. Only ingest essential oils under the direction of a trained practitioner. Always make sure to educate yourself on the contraindications of any products used. The statements contained herein are for educational purposes only and have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This information is not designed to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

• Ylang Ylang This beautiful, fruity-smelling tropical flower has been used as an antidepressant and aphrodisiac in both western and eastern cultures. Mix with a carrier oil and massage into scalp to experience its stress-relieving and sedating aroma. Ylang ylang has also been used as a natural way to treat thinning hair due to stress.

Terry Carter is the Chief

Suggested oils for reflection and introspection:

Formulator and Fragrance Nose for the Travertine Spa Collection. He is a nat-

• Frankincense

ural perfumer with certifications from

It has been said that frankincense is the most powerful essential oil for the spirit. It is no coincidence that it is mentioned in the bible over 20 times. Allow frankincense to deepen your breath, uplift

Perfumer's World and Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique etde l'Aromatique Alimentaire (ISIPCA - Paris).

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Herbal Remedies for Estheticians Six common herbs to spice up your spa menu by Rachael Pontillo

Herbs have long been used to beautify the skin, both for the most royal of queens and the most humble of peasants. Long before the first usage of synthetic ingredients such as white petrolatum in skincare in the late 1800s, women only used ingredients from nature for skin care. While synthetic skinc are ingredients are still used widely today, and new advancements in ingredient technology are discovered every year, there has been a huge resurgence of the use of herbs both in the treatment room, and at home.

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Herbs & Aromatherapy guide

The reasons are many, but most simply, herbs are accessible, effective, and inexpensive. They deliver bioavailable vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants into the skin in a way that, for many, is less irritant than their active counterparts. There’s also a wide variety in how they can be used, whether it’s as a simple infusion for a compress, toner, or steam; poultice, mask, or even just healthy refreshment or to brighten the ambience of your space. There are a multitude of herbs that are known to specifically improve skin health. While some grow in exotic locales, many others grow natively in your own backyard or local park or community garden. If you don’t have a yard, or access to a community space, all you need are some pots and a sunny windowsill to grow your own herbal skin care potions. Here are six of the most common backyard or easy-to-grow skin-healthy herbs: Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) Most are familiar with the calming feeling that comes after drinking chamomile tea, but it’s also an excellent herb to use in topical treatments. It’s an incredibly calming herb, helping to soothe and relax sensitive skin. It’s also an excellent herb to use around the eyes or for people who have issues with uneven tone and hyperpigmentation, as it brings gentle brightening properties to the skin. Chamomile grows and multiplies easily. Both the Roman and German varieties are used for skin care, and are easy to grow in backyard gardens and pots. The Roman variety is a perennial—meaning it will grow back year to year as long as soil conditions permit. The German variety is technically an annual, but since it self-sows so easily, it will often replant itself to come back the next season. Use the tea as a compress or toner, the fresh flowers 54

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as a poultice (you can additionally use the teabags as an eye covering during a treatment or mask), or grind up the dried flowers into a fine powder to add to a clay mask.

the appearance of fine lines and other signs of skin aging. Calendula is easy annual plant to grow indoors or out, as long as it has full sun, and rich soil (it loves compost!).

Calendula (Calendula officinalis) is a wonderful herbal addition to any integrative skin care regimen due to its many skin-healthy benefits. Though calendula and the common marigold both come in a brilliant yellow-orange color, and are both members of the Asteraceae family, Calendula officinalis is the genus most utilized for its soothing and therapeutic benefits. Calendula is known for its antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and wound healing activity. It also offers appearance-enhancing skin benefits. In studies, Calendula has been shown to stimulate fibroblasts--the cells which produce the proteins of youth, collagen and elastin--which may improve

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is possibly the most valuable “weed” that nature provides. It grows abundantly without any effort at all in most climates. The leaves and flowers are used in food and drink; while the entire plant is useful medicinally, and is known for its detoxifying and purifying benefits for the body internally, as well as the skin topically. Dandelion stem extract has been researched as a skin brightener (it is a tyrosinase inhibitor), and is noted for other skin benefits due to its high content of polyphenol and flavonoid antioxidants. While dandelion alone is not a sunscreen, it does possess anti-carcinogenic and UV protective properties, which make


Herbs & Aromatherapy guide

topically as a spot treatment, cooling compress, toner, in the water phase of a lotion or cream, or to reconstitute a dry mask. If the gel has a lumpy consistency, this can be remedied quickly using a blender or milk frother. it an excellent addition to any seasonal spring or summer treatment, as well as a pre- or post-suncare regimen. Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis Miller) Multiple varieties of this plant grow easily in desert climates, however it’s also one of the easiest plants to keep indoors. All it requires is sun, periodic watering, and re-potting to help it grow larger. Aloe is a unique ingredient in that it is both a humectant and emollient. Because of its naturally antimicrobial, cooling, soothing, anti-inflammatory properties, it is commonly used to treat common skin ailments and minor lacerations and abrasions. While it is possible to obtain commercially prepared aloe vera gel, it is easy enough, and often more effective to extract fresh aloe gel right from the leaves. Simply use a vegetable peeler to gently expose the gel inside the leaf and scrape it out. Aloe can be used

Rose / Rose Hips Perhaps the most regal of plants with the longest history of beauty benefits, Rose is a skin care ally that should be in every backyard or garden. Though there are thousands of different species of rose, three have been identified as having high enough levels of therapeutic properties to make into rose waters and essential oil: Rosa damascena, Rosa centifolia, and Rosa gallica. Rose is wonderful for every skin type or concern, as it has mild firming properties, and delivers vitamin C gently. While steam-distilled rose essential oil is desirable, it is incredibly expensive, and is also not the most sustainable way to use the plant, as it takes 10,000 pounds of rose petals to make a single pound of rose essential oil. It takes far less plant matter to make rose water, which is great to use as a toner and moisturizer for clients with sensitive and couperose skin due

to its tonic and astringent effect on capillaries. It also has naturally occurring antimicrobial properties which can help improve acneic skin. Though the appearance and aroma of the petals are what the flower is most known for, the fruit of the rose—rose hips—must not be ignored. Rose hips contain more vitamin C than citrus fruits, and rose hip oil is also highly nutritive to the skin. Rose hip products are much less expensive than other rose ingredients, allowing more clients to experience its properties. Burdock (Arctium lappa) “Burdock is simply the best herb for the skin and can be used internally and externally for eczema, psoriasis, acne, and other skin imbalances” according to renowned herbalist, Rosemary Gladstar. Like dandelion, burdock is generally considered a weed—and one that doesn’t require much effort to grow. While this plant is considered more of a backyard nuisance than ally due to its prickly, clingy burrs, the root is both excellent food and medicine inside and out for healthy skin. Research has shown that topically applied burdock root extract aids in visible wrinkle LNEonline.com

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Herbs & Aromatherapy guide

reduction. It’s also known to enhance the skin’s wound healing abilities, and is excellent for pore purification. Both the root and leaves are used for the skin. Its nutrients include tannins, amino acids, and polyphenol antioxidants. It’s also an excellent natural source of fiber, which acts as a prebiotic, which feeds and nourishes the skin’s microbiome. References:

• Pontillo, Rachael. “3 Herbs to Naturally Brighten Dark

Undereye

Circles.”

Rachael

Pontillo,

Holistically Haute, Inc, 23 Nov. 2016, rachaelpontillo.com/3-herbs-for-dark-undereye-circles/.

“Calendula--Membership

Card

Pack

2.”

Nutritional Aesthetics Alliance, LLC, 26 Jan. 2016. www.nutritionalaesthetics.com/membership

Pontillo, Rachael. “The Many Skin and Health

Benefits

of

Aloe

Vera.”

Rachael

Pontillo,

Holistically Haute, Inc, 26 June 2017, rachaelpontillo.com/ingredient-spotlight-aloe-vera/.

Pontillo, Rachael. “Refine and Restore with

Rose.” DERMASCOPE Magazine, Dermascope Magazine,

2013,

www.dermascope.com/

ingredients/refine-and-restore-with-rose.

Gladstar,

Rosemary.

Rosemary

Gladstar's

Medicinal Herbs: a Beginner's Guide. Storey Publishing, 2012.

Price, Annie. “Burdock Root Detoxes Blood,

Lymph System + Skin.” Dr. Axe, Dr. Axe, 15 June 2017, draxe.com/burdock-root/.

• Xie, Pu-Jun, et al. “Skin-Care Effects of Dandelion Leaf Extract and Stem Extract: Antioxidant Properties, Tyrosinase Inhibitory and Molecular Docking

Simulations.”

Egyptian

Journal

of

Medical Human Genetics, Elsevier, 21 Oct. 2017, www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/ S0926669017306933.

Rachael Pontillo is the bestselling author of the book Love Your Skin, Love Yourself, and co-author of The Sauce Code. She’s an AADP and IAHC Board Certified International Health Coach, licensed aesthetician; and natural skincare formulator and educator. She’s the president and co-founder of the Nutritional Aesthetics™ Alliance, the creator of the popular skincare and healthy lifestyle blog, Holistically Haute™, as well as the much-loved online course, Create Your Skincare. She’s an avid herbalist, self-professed skincare ingredient junkie, and lifelong learner.

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Aromatic

scapes E 58

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Five Intoxicating Ideas for Aromatherapy in the Spa by Carrie Borzillo

Scent is known to not only be the most primal of the five senses, but it's also believed to be the most powerful one in terms of altering one's emotions and mood. This is why having a solid aromatherapy menu across all modalities (from facials to bodywork) is a must-have on any spa menu. "Through the pathways between smell and the deep centers of the brain, essential oils can have a dynamic effect on our emotional state. They can help transform our moods and move us from one state of mind to another," says Gabriel Halmagyi, spa manager at Cavalieri Grand Spa Club at Rome Cavalieri: A Waldorf Astoria Resort in Rome, Italy.

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Get a whiff of these intoxicating treatments...

Lavender Rain Hydrotherapy Treatment Kohler Waters Spa in Kohler, Wisconsin uses a combination of lavender and eucalyptus in its signature treatment, Lavender Rain Hydrotherapy Treatment (50 minutes, $185), to help eliminate tension and relieve pain. "Lavender and eucalyptus boast several benefits, including disinfection of the scalp and skin, enhancement of blood circulation, and treatment of respiratory issues. Both oils also serve as an anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, decongestant, and stimulant. We use it in the exfoliating scrub, massage oil, and moisturizer for this treatment," explains manager of operations Nikki Miller. The treatment begins with a full body lavender and eucalyptus-infused salt scrub before wrapping the guest with oils and salt. Guests are then in60

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troduced to the spa's custom Vichy shower (for the "rain" part of the treatment) where water gathers inside the wrap, creating a waterbed and aromatic experience. While wrapped, guests receive a pressure point facial massage as well as a head, neck, and shoulder massage with aromatic oils. "The main benefits of this treatments are to encourage relaxation, deep breathing, lymphatic drainage, and decongestion. The treatment also works to reduce stress and ease issues with insomnia, but is not recommended during pregnancy," adds Miller.

Aroma Design Bar The Phoenician Spa in Scottsdale, Arizona opened an Aroma Design Bar where guests can create their own aroma blend from 25 therapeutic, medical-grade essential oils and botanical boosters. The guest's special oil is then used in either the spa's Aroma Design Massage (50 minutes, $200) or Aroma

Design Body Polish (50 minutes, $205). It can be blended into a take-home product, such as a body butter, body polish, hand cream, foaming salt soak, or gemstone-infused perfume ($25-$42). "The perfume and the body butter have been the best-sellers. The most popular oils have been sweet orange, lime, lavender, rose, jasmine, and cedar. The most popular booster is pomegranate, for its anti-aging skin benefits," notes director of spa Sheryl McCormick. And it has a cool techie-twist. McCormick explains, "The company that we partnered with has an app for an iPad to help blend the oils. The guest will sit down with our 'alchemista,' who assists with the aroma design journey and the blending. The consultation takes about 20 minutes." she says. The app asks a series of questions that will direct the guest to a recipe that is best for them. They can choose from several categories, such as Conscious Giving, Aromatic Alchemy, Positive Outcomes, or Power Numbers.


Herbs & Aromatherapy guide

"In Positive Outcomes, you start with Mood Shift, then Inviting Change, then Switch To Calm for the recipe that will promote peace and restfulness — a blend of lavender, ylang-ylang, and vetiver. The app will name the blend selected and give a summary of the recipe, describing the benefits of this particular oil blend," adds McCormick.

The Ultimate Aromatherapy Experience The Ultimate Aromatherapy Experience (50 minutes, $139, 80 minutes, $208) at Cavalieri Grand Spa Club at Rome Cavalieri: A Waldorf Astoria Resort in Rome, Italy is catered to the guest's emotional and physical needs. The treatment kicks off with a treatment plan that asks the guests how they are feeling today. Depending on the reply, the therapist will choose two or three oils best suited for that guest's needs. The guest then smells the oils and picks a favorite that will be used in the massage. "Some of our most popular oils are Light Relax, which uses lavender, ylang ylang and petitgrain to calm the mind, reduce worry and anxiety and help you unwind, and De-Stress Mind, which uses frankincense, chamomile, and petitgrain to help with guests that are stressed and emotional drain," explains spa manager Gabriel Halmagyi. The treatment features an intense head-to-toe massage ritual drawn from a fusion of eastern and western techniques enabling the therapist to work on the guest's body, mind, and spirit. "The massage includes Swedish and neuromuscular techniques to relieve muscular tension, and lymphatic drainage to encourage healthy circulation. A foot reflex pressure point massage is also performed and the legs are then massaged together to aid the elimination of toxins. And, the stomach is massaged to aid digestion and the treatment is completed with a front of leg and foot massage," says Halmagyi.

Exquisite Gemstone Facial Exquisite Gemstone Facial (80 minutes, $320) at The Spa at Four Seasons Resort and Residences Jackson Hole in Wyoming features handcrafted oils energetically infused with various crystals for an aromatherapy experience to awaken the senses. The treatment uses three different types of oils: Luna Mystica is a combination of smoky quartz, jasmine, honey, and cocoa that is said to inspire inner strength and illuminate one's true potential. Sacred Indigo is a combination of amethyst, blue tansy, water lily, and clove invoking feminine self-expression. And, Amour UniversĂŠl is made with rose quartz, pink pepper, vanilla, and red mandarin to awaken romantic devotion while restoring a sense of peaceful splendor. "We infuse the oils with three gemstones: smoky quartz, rose quartz, and amethyst. Clients looking for an all encompassing, holistic approach to well being tend to be drawn to this treatment. They enjoy the benefits of the facial, the balancing effects of the gemstones and the resonating results of the aromatherapy," says assistant spa director Kimberly Jenkins.

The Hamsa Healing Ritual The treatment menu at Spa Oceana at The Don CeSar in St. Pete Beach, Florida is designed around the three main oceans of the world (Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian) with The Hamsa Healing Ritual (90 minutes, $230) serving as the signature treatment for the Indian Ocean. "In the Indian Ocean, we have Ayurvedic-style treatments featuring sandalwood, mandarin, and lemongrass. This treatment combines the healing effects of Tibetan singing bowls and Ayurvedic Garshana, a dry brushing technique, with massage," says spa director Rianon Cepriano.

The goal of this treatment is to bring the body back into balance. The treatment opens with the ringing of Tibetan singing bowls over the seven chakras of the body while the therapist encourages the guest to focus on deep breathing techniques to relax the mind. Next, Garshana prepares the skin for sandalwood infused massage oil. Lastly, the guest is immersed in a restful cocoon while they enjoy a warm oil scalp treatment with steamed towels. "In the east, problems with health and wellness are looked at as a manifestation of disharmony within the body; the goal of this treatment is to bring the body back into balance," adds Cepriano. Sandalwood is chosen for its many healing properties, some of which assist with easing anxiety to help with mental clarity. "Sandalwood also promotes a meditative state and helps relieve chronic insomnia. The oil is also infused with ginseng root, marshmallow root, and shatavari root, plus a unique Ayurvedic blend of six carrier oils loaded with vitamins and minerals for a truly unique blend," says Cepriano.

Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.

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Fresh Finds

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How the “Queen of Herbs” increases well-being by Aurora Solis

Of all the herbs used in holistic skin care and wellness practices, Holy Basil, also known as Tulsi or Ocimum sanctum Linn, is one of the most preeminent, with scientific research now beginning to confirm its benefits. Studies are beginning to show that holy basil can reduce physical, chemical, metabolic and psychological stress through its unique combination of chemical and physical properties. With adaptogenic and stress reducing properties, holy basil has broadspectrum benefits to uplift your client’s wellbeing with a beautiful, holistic ritual.

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organic & wellness Oh, Holy Basil

• Basil Basics Right off the bat, let’s distinguish holy basil from the western sweet basil used in your favorite pesto sauce. Although this common kitchen basil is a healthy and delicious addition to spa waters and snacks, it is not the same herb as holy basil. Many variations of basil exist across the globe, such as:

Western Sweet Basil Commonly used in Italian cooking. Also known as Mediterranean basil

Thai Sweet Basil Has a purple stem and dark purple flowers. Can be spicy compared to western basil.

Lemon Basil Used to compliment seafood. has pale green leaves or dark green leaves

Cinnamon Basil Has green leaves with serrated edges. Utilized for its unique fragrance in savory dishes

Purple Basil Differs in shape and size

Holy Basil The most common basil variety. Has a sharp and peppery taste that intensifies with cooking

• Brief Basil History Holy basil, or Tulsi, is an aromatic herb in the basil family Lamiaceae that is thought to have originated in India and now is native to various eastern tropics. Known in Ayurveda as “The Incomparable One,” “Mother Medicine of Nature” and “The Queen of Herbs,” holy basil is revered as one of the most sacred Ayurvedic herbs for its medicinal and spiritual properties. It is thought to be native to India, and has been cultivated for over 5,000 years. The name holy basil has a spiritual significance, as well. In Hindu mythology, it is believed that the plant is an incarnation of the goddess Tulsi, offering divine protection. This sacred herb can be 68

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found growing in temples, homes and courtyards of families who wish to display the herb as a symbol of worship. For example, one of the oldest surviving remnants in Jaipur fort, the seat of Indian worship, is a 700-year-old holy basil plant. According to Ayurvedic traditions, holy basil promotes purity and lightness, cleansing toxins and relieving digestive fire. The herb is predominantly Kapha-reducing, but can also pacify unbalanced Vata and Pitta. The Ayurvedic tradition has adopted holy basil into its spiritual and lifestyles traditions to provide lasting health benefits that are now being confirmed by modern science.

mote homeostasis, or peace within the body. Although adaptogens are not commonly used in Western medicine, Western science has confirmed that holy basil has many healthy benefits. Holy basil can be seen as a purifier, with its list of “anti-“ properties growing in number. A few of its most well-known qualities include:

• antibacterial • antifungal • antioxidant • anticarcinogenic • antistress • analgesic • antihypertensive • anti-inflammatroy

• A is for Adaptogen Hoy basil is an adaptogen. This means it has unique pharmacological abilities that promote resilience. Holy basil has the ability to “adapt” to stress and pro-

• Detoxification Many of holy basil’s health benefits are attributed to its ability to assist the body


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organic & wellness Oh, Holy Basil

with internal protection and expulsion of toxins. This can be traced back to holy basil’s high phenolic compound and antioxidant content. Studies show that holy basil protects against chemical-induced stress by increasing the body’s levels of antioxidants such as glutathione, and antioxidant enzymes like superoxide dismutase and catalase, which protect cellular structures by soaking up free radical damage. Holy basil also reduces DNA damage and has anticarginogenic properties.

• Mental Stress Holy basil has various psychotherapeutic properties that are revealed to be anti-anxiety and anti-depressant. The herb was shown in a six-week trial to reduce stress and anxiety. In Ayurveda, holy basil is commonly used to enhance psychological well-being and prevent the development of stressrelated diseases. Because of this, many wellness practitioners recommend holy basil tea as a daily lifestyle practice. Other health benefits of holy basil include:

Healthy Heart Because of its high flavonoid content, holy basil can help reduce the risk of coronary heart disease, along with healthy diet and exercise.

Brighten & Rejuvenate

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with Plant Meristematic Cells Extract

70

Sore Throat Healer Holy basil can also help soothe and ease a sore throat. Use the herb as a hot tea or gargle to reduce pain and inflammation caused by a common cold.

Stress Relief Tulsi, or holy basil, can reduce the body’s stress levels with its anti-inflammatory and immune-boosting properties. It has been used to lower cortisol levels, and reduce anxiety and emotional stress. Holy basil’s high antioxidant content also helps to fight free radials, reducing environmental stress on the skin caused by pollution and sun damage.

• Holy Basil Oil With all of these internal wonders that holy basil offers, it comes as no surprise that, when applied topically, the herb has many skin care benefits as well. Holy basil oil, or Tulsi oil, holds many of the same benefits that the ingested herb does. Tulsi oil is packed with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that function in unison to heal acne and reduce inflammation. The high concentration of eugenol found in holy basil can also help treat skin conditions such as eczema. However, take care in diluting the oil before use on clients. Holy basil is packed with other essential nutrients for the skin. A few examples are:

• iron • calcium • magnesium • vitamin C • vitamin K

These help to boost skin cell metabolism and maintain collagen levels, making holy basil a great topical anti-aging ingredient as well.

• In The Treatment Room Holy basil can be incorporated into skin care and spa treatments in a variety of ways. From face to body products, holy basil is a commonly used ingredient for many all-natural and holistic lines. Look for holy basil in facial oils, serums, herbal steams and body scrubs to incorporate this herbaceous delight. Herbal teas with holy basil can be used as a complimentary spa refreshment with added benefits! Offer your clients a cup before and/or after their service.

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August2018

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Cucumber Mist

Not just another natural toning mist, the Ke Kō Cucumber Mist is full of amazing benefits. Calming organic cucumber hydrosol with organic aloe, organic willow bark and tea tree just being the top ingredients. It’s antibacterial for post hair removal on all body parts, and skin anti-inflammatory with major hydrating properties. Free of parabens, gluten, dairy, dies or perfumes and never tested on animals.

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Immerse your clients in a luxurious self-care secret designed to soothe the senses, soften the skin and soak the stress away. A powerful blend of mineral and sea slats hailed for their therapeutic properties, this salt soak is infused with 100mg premium CBD oil per ounce. Scents include lavender, Eucalyptus, Green tea and Cucumber as well as natural.

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MIAMI, FL

Oct 28 & 29, 2018 Hyatt Regency Hotel Miami & James L. Knight Center

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Business • Wellness • Mindfulness • Retail • Makeup Trends Marketing • Social Media • Workshops • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities

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Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com USA: 305.443.2322 / FAX: 305.443.1664

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Set It For Summer! 76

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The best techniques to make your client’s makeup stay all day by Cristina Beecham

Powders, sprays, primers…there are so many options when it comes to making your clients makeup stick, stay, and set for a hot summer day or night. But when dry skin and oily skin clients alike are asking for a dewy, skin-like glow, how do you set it in place without covering that beautiful shine with powder? Let’s discuss different scenarios and how you might set a client’s makeup for whatever occasion this summer might bring:

Scenario One: Client Skin Type: Oily Desired Makeup Look: Matte Set it: When your client has oily skin and is asking for a matte finish, powder is the best way to set his or her makeup in place. Along with a mattifying primer, loose or pressed powder will eliminate shine and keep oil at bay throughout the day. Once you have applied the client’s base, choose a translucent or tinted powder that matches the client’s skin tone. If you’re aiming for a full coverage finish, opt for a powder foundation formula to offer additional coverage. For the most natural finish, use a powder puff or beauty sponge and press the powder evenly over the client’s face. Using a brush can leave a cakey finish, letting the powder sit on top of the skin without fusing it with the foundation. A patting and pressing motion is recommended for an undetectably matte finish.

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image Set It For Summer

Scenario Two: Client Skin Type: Combination Desired Makeup Look: Dewy Set it: Like most of us, this client is embracing the skin-like glowy skin trend for summer. This means liquid illuminators and cream blushes! And although the dryer parts of your combo skin client will love these creamy textures, your client’s skin will still produce oil throughout the day. Here’s how to prevent this dewy look from turning into an oily mess! Strategic powdering. Knowing where and how much to powder is the key to dewy makeup in the summer. Apply a translucent powder only to the areas where your client gets oily or tends to crease. Opt for a sheer formula, as a high coverage powder will be obvious when not applied to the entire face. Use a sponge to pat the powder gently over the areas. Leave creamy highlighted areas untouched so they can glow all day!

Scenario Three: Client Skin Type: Oily Desired Makeup Look: Dewy Set it: Even oily skin clients like to experiment with dewy skin looks. The good news is that you can achieve their dream skin with these easy techniques. The first step to creating “dewy but not oily” skin is a great mattifying primer. The more you can prevent their skin from producing oil, the better! Stick to all powder products when choosing your bronzer and blush. Set the client’s face with a mattifying powder before applying highlighter. Leave highlight for your last step, as you don’t want the mattifying powder to cover up that shimmery finish. Choose a powder highlight that will apply smoothly over your chosen setting powder. Finally, spritz your client’s skin with a hydrating setting spray. This will amp up the powder highlight and give the illusion of creamy, dewy skin without disturbing the setting powder or making the client’s skin oily.

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image Set It For Summer

Scenario Four: Client Skin Type: Dry Desired Makeup Look: Matte Set It: Not every client is into the dewy skin trend. For those diehard matte finish clients with dry skin, take extra precaution to exfoliate and prep your client’s skin. Use a rich, hydrating cream that will create a barrier between the skin and the makeup. This way, any mattifying products you apply will absorb the oils in the moisturizer, and not the oils in your client’s skin, which would make them look dry. Once you have applied a heavy cream base, choose a natural finish foundation. On dry skin clients, natural or satin finish foundations tend to apply like matte finish formulas. If you reach for your matte foundations, chances are your client will look dry before you even apply powder. Choose powder bronzer and blush formulas to help set the foundation. Finally, set the entire face with a mattifying spray. This will lock in the makeup look without drying the skin out further.

Scenario Five: Client Skin Type: Normal Desired Makeup Look: Dewy Set It: Clients with non-oily and non-dry skin types allow the makeup artist more freedom when choosing products and formulas. Without concern that the look will last, the artist can create a unique finish that will remain true as the day goes on. When aiming to achieve a dewy finish on normal skin types, cream formulas are the way to go. From cream blush to cream bronzer and highlight, these formulas will have the most skin-like finish and texture. Apply cream products with your fingers when possible. This will warm up the product and melt it into the client’s skin. Even cream products can look dry when applied with the wrong tools, so your hands are your best friends when experimenting with glowy makeup for summer! Tip: For a trendy, matchy-matchy vibe, use your chosen lipstick as a cream blush for a fresh pop of color on the cheek! We love an orangey-pink for summer! A Note On Baking: It seems that every glam guru these days is baking his or her clients’ faces. While the mid-bake look is great for Instagram attention, not every client’s skin is best suited for baking. If your client has oily skin, baking is a great option to ensure the makeup lasts all day. However, avoid baking on clients with texture, wrinkles, or dry skin. Strategic powdering is the best way to make sure their makeup stays in place without settling into fine lines or large pores. LNEonline.com

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A Sight For Tired Eyes

Wake up tired eyes with this lightweight, biocellular complex from Le Mieux that minimizes the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, puffiness, and dark circles. Eye Wrinkle Corrector features seven potent peptides, cupuacu butter, red ginseng extract, and skin-loving antioxidants to refine delicate eye areas for a bright, youthful look.

888.327.8188 lemieuxcosmetics.com

Give Lips A Sexy Sheen

Eminence Organic Skin Care Citrus Lip Balm is a petroleum-free citrus treat for the lips with shea butter and sunflower seed oil to give lips maximum hydration and a sexy sheen. With continued use the natural peptides make lips look voluptuous and youthful.

888.747.6342 eminenceorganics.com

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MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Instant Radiance!

The Instant Radiance Anti-Aging Eye Patch from G.M. Collin has a hydrogel texture formulated with a unique mixture of ingredients, providing a feeling of coolness and comfort to the eye area. For all skin types. Achieve visibly younger and relaxed eyes that are illuminated with a glowing look in just 20 minutes!

800.341.1531 gmcollin.com

Give Me Some Sugar!

FarmHouse FreshŽ debuts a collection of three freshly farm-harvested cane sugar Lip Polishes to keep lips smooth and exfoliated yearround. They include: Blackberry Wine, made with crushed organic Oregon blackberries and Texas merlot grapes; Beach Punch, made with California dates, Texas honey, and pineapple juice; and bestselling flavor Whoopie!, made with Georgia cane and confectioners’ sugar.

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888.773.9626 farmhousefreshgoods.com LNEonline.com


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Reader Service No.

Page Number

84...............Altair Instruments.................................................altairinstruments.com.................................................. 243 20..............Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics...............beauinstitute.com........................................................ 167 6,7..............Bio-Therapeutic....................................................bio-therapeutic.com.................................................... 139 23...............Celluma...................................................................biophotas.com............................................................... 295 70...............Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc...................................dr-jeff.com................................................................... 248 2,3..............Eminence Organic Skin Care................................eminenceorganics.com............................................... 157 31...............EURO Pacific........................................................europacificllc.com....................................................... 132 83...............Equipro USA.........................................................equipro-bty.com.......................................................... 242 33...............G.M. Collin Skin Care...........................................gmcollin.com............................................................... 115 44...............Gold Cosmetics....................................................goldcosmetics.com..................................................... 350 43...............Grandelash MD.....................................................grandelashmd.com..................................................... 286 4,5..............The HydraFacial Company...................................hydrafacial.com........................................................... 201 73...............Industry Cosmetics...............................................gomyskin.com............................................................. 330 34,35..........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach............Longbeach.skincareshows.com 74,75..........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami............Miami.skincareshows.com 9.................Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics.....ladyburd.com.............................................................. 119 57...............Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics.................................biellecosmetics.com................................................... 294 11...............Lira Clinical...........................................................liraclinical.com............................................................. 203 45...............Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research..............lucrece.com................................................................. 263 71.............. Rapidlash/Rocasuba..............................................rapidlash.com................................................................ 224 81...............Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................rejuvilab.com............................................................... 149 21...............Revitalash............................................................. revitalash.com.............................................................. 346 69.............. Skin Script Skin Care............................................... skinscriptrx.com............................................................. 289

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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Proudly made in The USA and CANADA For your nearest distributor or for a brochure, call this toll-free number 1-877-324-2226 Visit us at the Long Beach Congress Booths 235, 237, 334, 336 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242 on reader service card


BODY WANDS

Diamondtome®

face and body wands is the universal solution to treat an array of neglected areas such as backs, buttocks, thighs, knees, heels, elbows, feet and under arms. With over 25 wands to choose from in a variety of sizes and grits you can offer your clients full body microexfoliation treatments. Beautiful skin doesn’t stop at the neck and neither should your services. Time to up your skin game with Diamondtome®.

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