LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals August 2020
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FROM THE
EDITOR
As more and more clients seek outdoor therapy this summer, they will experience increased sun exposure. Unfortunately, this can be the leading cause of skin discoloration. Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common complaints from clients and can be frustratingly difficult to remove. This month’s guide covers hyperpigmentation in the treatment room, including the types of brown spots you will encounter, prevention, and treatment. Furthermore, how LED therapy and natural alternatives work wonders for the skin. These past few months, I have had the privilege of attending many spas and skin studios to check in and see before
after
how everyone is doing after reopening. I love to see the overwhelming amount of excitement between estheticians and their clients. Things we maybe once took for granted were missed dearly during the shutdown and are now being celebrated more than ever. You all do much more than making the skin look good. You make your clients feel good by providing meaningful services. I am excited for you all to read our Organic and Wellness section this month on Empathy and the Esthetician and Mood-Boosting Beauty. Our writers share some great tips about embracing the empath within you and the importance of self-care rituals for you and your clients. Tensions are high in the world right now, aside from all of the daily stressors you might be experiencing, which is why taking the time to read and apply what you learn to your lives can make all the difference! Happy August!
Managing Editor
samantha@LNEonline.com 4
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Light Therapy
August volume 35 number 8
contents 4
From the Editor Advertiser Index
10 Electrolytes and Minerals
40
Naturally Effective
14 Sleeping Beauty
44
LED Light Therapy &
business
Hyperpigmentation 49
Getting To The Root
52
Hyperpigmentation Photo Feature
39 Hyperpigmentation Guide
18
Spa of the Month
58
Empathy and the Esthetician
22
Behind The Spa Door
63
Mood-Boosting Beauty
24
Spa News
68
Organic & Wellness News
o&w
spa
10 Electrolytes and Minerals
20 Behind The Spa Door
58 Empathy and the Esthetician
28
Let’s Get Personal
70
Summer Blues
33
Navigating Through Financial
72
Image News
Uncertainty 37
Business News
38
#esty2esty
28 Let’s Get Personal
image
skin
16 Skin News
guide
74
70 Summer Blues
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Samantha Garcia samantha@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Kara Mark Dr. Konstantin Vasukevich Samantha Garcia Marissa Roque Louis Silberman
Boldijarre Koronczay Shorr Solutions Marconi Rodas Shea Wilson-Lewis Kirstie Garrett Aurora Solis
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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ELECTROLYTES AND MINERALS 10
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See why these ingredients are making a splash in skincare! by Kara McLucas-Mark
We all learned in skin sciences that the body is made of 70 percent of water and that the skin is the largest organ of the body, despite many of our daily activities resulting in dehydration far more than hydration. Whether it be a robust HIIT workout, a long night out, or a round of sickness, we all know the importance of getting electrolytes back into the body. When skin is lacking in electrolytes, it can begin to look and feel depleted. Maintaining the proper fluid balance across cells is one of the main functions of electrolyte-based products. By adding in skincare products that include these workhorse ingredients, one can see improvement in aging, hydration, and overall glow. And let's face it, who isn't looking to turn back time and look well-rested?
What exactly are electrolytes? Electrolytes are ions that carry a slight electrical charge, which are catalysts for processes throughout the body. These processes can range from ner-
vous system function, fluid balance, muscle function, and pH level maintenance, to name a few. Electrolytes differ from minerals because they are attracted to and attract the magnetic ends of water molecules. Most electrolytes are also minerals; however, not all minerals are necessarily electrolytes.
Sodium and Chloride Sodium and chloride are the two most notable electrolytes, with essential roles throughout the body. When combined, these create what is commonly known as table salt. Sodium alone is mainly responsible for fluid balance. However, when combined with chlorine, it becomes an ionic compound that attracts water and helps in the absorption of other nutrients. When added to skincare, this brings the water found in the body to the surface and works as a vehicle to transport other ingredients into the skin. Typically, in skincare, you see chloride mentioned more notably in ingredients because it is not commonly found in the diet. Sodium is found in almost every food and is the largest component of the extracellular fluid, which is the fluid outside of cells making up 60 percent of the water in the body.
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skin Electrolytes and Minerals
By adding in skincare products that include these workhorse ingredients, one can see improvement in aging, hydration, and overall glow. Potassium Potassium is also important in fluid balance and nerve transmission. It is commonly found in dietary sources such as leafy greens, bananas, sweet potatoes, and avocados. Potassium is the primary electrolyte found in the intracellular fluid, the fluid inside the cells, which makes up 40 percent of the total water found in one's body. The balance of fluid to electrolytes in your cells, or osmolality, is primarily driven by the balance of potassium and the previously mentioned sodium. Combined, they are the reason water is drawn in or out of areas that are not balanced. Potassium is used not only to attract moisture to one's skin but also to balance the pH of many skincare products.
Calcium This is another vital electrolyte that plays an important part in maintaining the moisture level within the cells. Calcium has long been praised for being responsible for healthy bones and teeth, but it also plays an integral role in influencing new cells. Within the proliferating layers of skin, there is a calcium gradient that determines the strength of the barrier (protective) function of the skin and how quickly new cells are generated. Calcium is found not only in dairy items but in green leafy vegetables, nuts, and certain seeds.
Magnesium This electrolyte is the real powerhouse for the skin. Magnesium plays a role in over 300 enzyme reactions within our bodies. Most processes in our body cannot happen without magnesium, yet we are commonly deficient. Magnesium 12
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can reduce skin inflammation by stabilizing hormonal levels, cortisol, and improving cellular processes by helping to generate cellular energy. Magnesium is essential for amino acid and protein synthesis that produces notable proteins such as collagen. Natural magnesium sources include dark chocolate, whole grains, and fatty fish.
Other Minerals As previously stated, most electrolytes are minerals, but all minerals are not electrolytes. However, there are a few that deserve praise. Zinc is a trace mineral that does a lot for the skin by simply being a natural anti-inflammatory. Zinc is used by the body for wound healing, immune system response, and helps to make protein. This also explains why the skin happens to be the third most zinc abundant tissue in the body. The body does not store zinc, so it is important to reach the daily requirement each day. Natural sources of zinc include red meat, legumes, and dairy. Copper and manganese are also minerals that are important for skin health. They are a part of many different enzyme reactions and help with collagen formation as well as wound healing.
balance. Your skin will tell you if you're dehydrated, but so will your body. Determining if the skin is dry or dehydrated is always a debate between estheticians and their clients. Dry can be solved with a good moisturizer, dehydrated is a little more complicated and involves replenishing electrolytes, minerals, and moisture. When the skin lacks essential electrolytes and minerals, it enters an inflammatory state that can speed up the aging process.
Electrolytes and Mineral-Infused Skincare With advances in skincare ingredients, we are seeing more and more products that tout to be the next big thing to improve our skin's hydration. Hyaluronic acid is one good supplement to help hydrate skin but is not the only thing that can hydrate and draw the skin's water to the surface. Incorporating electrolyte and mineral-infused skincare into retail sales as well as back bar products will become increasingly more accessible as more products are created. Many different brands are already using the moisture boosting ingredients in night creams and serums. However, skin health starts from the inside out, so it is always important to coach clients on eating healthier foods and drinking more water. Eating a balanced diet and drinking enough water is the best way to maintain the skin's barrier function and moisture level. There is not one "magic" electrolyte or mineral that leads to healthy skin. However, it is essential to maintain the right balance of all electrolytes and minerals to promote healthy, youngerlooking skin.
Dry vs. Dehydrated Electrolytes and minerals are depleted in various ways, and the most common is through sweat. There are between 2 to 5 million sweat glands on the human body. In one square inch of skin, there are 650 sweat glands alone. Sweating causes us to lose mainly potassium and sodium, but it is not the only way to lose electrolytes and minerals. Any rapid form of water loss causes an im-
Kara McLucas-Mark is a licensed esthetician with a medical focus. She has worked with multiple modalities including non-ablative lasers, microcurrent, ultrasound skin tightening, and radiofrequency machines. She lives with her husband and two dogs outside of Annapolis, MD. She loves learning about new skin developments, her LED light, and jade roller!
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skin Sleeping Beauty
SLEEPING
BEAUTY How to Reduce Facial Aging with Proper Sleep Positions by Dr. Konstantin Vasukevich
We do so much to make our skin look good in the morning. But without proper rest, the face is destined to look unhealthy and tired. Most patients understand the importance of getting enough sleep each night, and the effect that ample sleep can have on improving skin tone, texture, and appearance. What is less readily known is how the positions we sleep in affect anti-aging efforts and postprocedure recovery. There are several ways in which sleep position can impact the process of facial aging. Here are some great tips to share with your clients!
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skin Sleeping Beauty
LYING HORIZONTALLY Regardless of what position you sleep in, the act of laying in a horizontal position of any nature will inevitably shift the balance of fluid distribution towards the upper body. This fluid shift is frequently manifested by facial swelling seen early in the morning when we first wake up and is especially noticeable around the eyes and in the upper cheek area. Facial swelling associated with sleep, although inconvenient and unsightly, usually disappears within a short period of time after the upright position is regained. However, it’s important to note that the long term effects of this continuous cyclical swelling should not be underestimated. Daily expansion and contraction of the facial tissue puts a strain on the ligamentous support of the face, which may eventually lead to stretching and sagging associated with an aged appearance.
sleep-related facial aging is associated with sleeping on the side. Since most people sleep on their side, I recommend using a pillowcase that doesn’t tug and stretch the skin as much, such as one made of silk or satin.
SLEEPING ON YOUR STOMACH
SLEEPING POST-PROCEDURE
This problem can be exacerbated by excessive fluid intake before bedtime, as well as sleeping on the stomach with the face down. I would recommend against sleeping on your stomach if you can. This position tends to create a more significant accumulation of fluid under the eyes, meaning increased puffiness and places your face under increased pressure during the night.
After a facelift or any facial cosmetic procedure, I always recommend that patients sleep on their backs with the head slightly elevated 20-30 degrees upright. For optimal results and shortened recovery time, it’s important to maintain this sleeping position for at least a month after the procedure, unless there is some notable exception, which I would suggest discussing with your doctor. The most critical time when one should try to minimize the face’s nightly swelling by maintaining a proper sleep position is the first week after the surgery. After the first week, the need for a “good night sleep” might overcome the concerns of excessive tissue swelling for the habitual side or stomach sleeper. In this case, they may return to the position that provides them with restful night sleep.
SLEEPING ON YOUR SIDE Another process that can compound the damage to the supporting ligaments of the face during sleep is the shearing forces created by the movement of the facial skin against the pillow. These forces are not significant enough to noticeably stretch the skin overnight. However, when this process continues every night over an extended period of time it can lead to additional damage to the tissue supporting mechanism and result in the aged appearance of the face. This type of
your back is the best sleep position for anti-aging. It avoids the back-and-forth rubbing exchange associated with side and face-down sleeping and mitigates puffiness and fluid buildup in the face. For those who follow a nightly skincare regime and use products before going to bed, sleeping on your back also decreases the amount of product that can be transferred to your pillow at night.
Dr. Konstantin Vasyukevich is a double board-certified facial plastic surgeon specializing in artful cosmetic and reconstructive facial plastic surgery for patients throughout New York City, Manhattan, and Brooklyn. His expertise includes facelifts, brow lifts, blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery), rhinoplasty, and cosmetic injectables including BOTOX® Cosmetic and fillers. Performing more than 1,000 facial cosmetic procedures annually at his private practice, Dr. Konstantin is one of the
SLEEPING ON YOUR BACK
busiest facial plastic surgeons in Manhattan.
Regardless of whether you’ve just undergone surgery or not, sleeping on
Visit his website for more information or to schedule a consultation.
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Skin
NEWS 2
1
AnteAGE Regenzyme
Coconut & Honey Aloe Cleanser from Lkins Skincare
Formulated with aloe, coconut oil, and Manuka Honey, this light gel gently foams while cleansing and moisturizing the skin. Great for all skin types, especially sensitive skin. Two to three pumps are all you need.
Soften skin and slough away surface dead skin cells leaving the skin polished and hydrated. This gentle and effective approach to exfoliation contains powerful botanical enzymes produced through bacterial fermentation, enriched with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant-rich ingredients, perfect for all skin types.
anteage.com
lkinsskincare.com
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BiON’s Mandelic Serum Prevent the recurrence of acne outbreaks, clear pores, exfoliate, and increase cell turnover with this serum containing antibacterial properties that regulate sebum production. This product is extremely beneficial in treating acne, fine lines and wrinkles, and reducing pigmentation issues.
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4
Vital Eyes Instant Awakening Serum from HydroPeptide Reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and puffy eyes with this hydrating eye serum. The cooling rollerball massages bakuchiol, the safe retinol alternative, and anti-inflammatory caffeine to increase blood circulation and instantly depuff the eyes for a smoother, brighter under-eye.
hydropeptide.com
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The Acqualina Spa by ESPA Dive Into World-Class Luxury
SPA OF THE MONTH
by Samantha Garcia
Just moments away from the turquoise-blue ocean and white sands of Sunny Isle Beach, Florida, the Acqualina Resort & Spa invites visitors from all around the globe to experience the Meditteranean Villa lifestyle in a world of five-star luxury. Where elegance meets scenic beauty, the serene seaside property stands away from the Miami Beach and Fort Lauderdale cities’ excitement so that guests can soften, relax and enjoy the magnificent amenities and the tranquility of the water.
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spa Spa Of The Month
A family-owned and operated resort, Acqualina knows just what everyone needs for the ultimate vacation. Whether relaxing poolside on the bright red lounge chairs, watching a memorable hatching release of sea turtles to the ocean with the little ones or savoring the taste of world-class cuisine, there is plenty to indulge in at the gorgeous destination—one of the most exceptional experiences being the Acqualina Spa by ESPA.
THE BEGINNING OF PARADISE Enter into the Acqualina Spa by ESPA, a 20,000 square-foot facility featuring state-of-the-art treatment rooms, healing heat and water rituals, an outdoor spa swimming pool, relaxation lounges, and private suites. The calm and therapeutic environment is just a taste of what guests will receive as part of their transformational journey inspired by the authentic European Day Spa experience. The luxurious pampering begins with The Himalayan Salt Wall in the women’s and men’s relaxation lounges, which contain detoxifying negative ions that naturally purify the air. Himalayan salt contains 84 trace minerals that vibrate in harmony with human cells, improving mood and access to the “ancient wisdom” hidden within. The Experience Shower includes Rain, Tropic, and Side Jet settings all set at a natural temperature to soothe the skin and cool the core.
FEEL THE VIBRATIONS Exclusive to the American home of ESPA, the Sound Care Massage (80 min, $250) can only be experienced at the Acqualina Spa. The treatment begins with a private therapist consultation and a stress-relieving foot massage as the guest chooses his or her desired Music Therapy session on an Ipad. Once the music is selected, the guest experiences a revitalizing aromatherapy massage set to the chosen Sound Care algorithm. “Guests feel transported and in a total 20
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relaxed state of mind, alleviated from any emotional anxieties and physical tensions, a real total transformation,” says Spa Director Catherine Davalle. The spa’s offerings also include other Ayurvedic-infused holistic, restorative and meditative treatments, yoga, and a healthy spa menu.
MARKETING The Acqualina Spa by ESPA attracts new visitors and repeat guests through its social media platform, showcasing the exquisite spa experience. “We receive a lot of coverage from many writers and bloggers invited by our VP of Communications to experience the spa. We also are very present on social media.” No visit at the beachfront spa is ever the same with new special offerings and ESPA gift with purchase provided every month. As for rebooking, the spa offers incentives for specific treatments to keep guests coming back.
TRAINING ESPA trainers visit twice a year for a week to refresh the team on services or teach them new treatments. Spa managers also conduct monthly evaluations for specific treatments from therapists. Davalle says, “we have weekly assessments to ensure the Forbes five star standards are well ingrained into each team member.” Forbes Travel Guide has awarded the spa a Five Star Spa rating for eight years in a row due to its impeccable and flawless service providing an exceptional guest experience. The Acqualina Spa holds pre-shift “Zen time” meetings with all team members to set the tone for the day, discussing standards, daily arrival, specific requests from guests, new procedures, and more. Longer meetings are held quarterly to discuss the greater vision and direction of the spa and celebrate recent celebrations. To motivate the team and boost revenue, “our
spa Spa Of The Month
therapists receive from ESPA one free product each time they sell three products during one shift,” says Davalle.
SPECIAL EVENTS AND PROMOTIONS In partnership with the spa’s ESPA Account Manager, the Marketing Calendar is created the winter before the year. One of the biggest opportunities is Miami Spa Month happening during the months of July and August, where guests can find the most pampering treatments and services at a discounted price. The beachfront spa also has a strong and longtime partnership with Yogiiza, a fitness company that provides the resort with instructors for all of its fitness classes. Guests can choose from a basic personal training session or a beautiful beachfront yoga flow that awakens the senses.
REVENUE AND RETAIL Because Aqualine Spa is an ESPA brand, its skincare retail is purely ESPA products. However, the spa also offers guests “a variety of gift ideas, lounging wear, kid’s accessories, sunglasses, sun care, and more. As we are the only boutique located in the hotel, we try to carry everything you might need for
a day in the sun at Acqualina Pool and Beach,” explains Davalle. Guests can find an assortment of luxurious brands like Karla Colleto, Oliver Peoples, and Fornasetti that are meticulously chosen by the resort’s Retail Curator. “The high quality of these products correspond to the desire of our guests,” she says. This is proven in the spa’s 25 percent retail rate, which has been the fruit of many months of training its staff, investing in a more inviting retail space, and finding the right retail curator to understand guests and what they want.
Rundown 17875 Collins Ave Sunny Isles Beach, FL 33160 Acqualinaresort.com 305.918.8000 Spa Director: Catherine Davalle Facilities: 11 single treatment rooms, 1 Royal Spa Suite for couples, Himalayan Salt Wall lounges for men and women, lockers featuring sauna, steam, and experience shower, and an outdoor
heated pool and jacuzzi with Roman Waterfall. Client Ratio: 50/50 local versus hotel guests, 70/30 female versus male.
Spa Director Spotlight Originally from France, Catherine Davalle discovered the world of spas and worked for prestigious spas, such as the Spa at Mandarin Oriental Miami, where she went on to become a Spa Consultant for the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group Spa Division, the spa at the Biltmore Hotel, and finally Acqualina Spa by ESPA. Catherine is passionate about wellness and luxury and nurturing her team to bring the best spa experiences to her guests. LNEonline.com
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spa Behind The Spa Door
Behind the Spa Door A Flawless Work Ethic Setting the bar high with Marissa Roque, Lead Esthetician at Flawless by Melissa Fox, Miami, FL
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When did you realize your passion for esthetics? My mom signed up for esthetic school and I saw how passionate she was about it so I decided to join her! I love health and beauty and wanted a career where I could help people and not sit behind a desk. Esthetics checked off all the boxes!
spa Behind The Spa Door
How did you build your clientele? After every facial, I follow up the next day to check in on the client’s skin and see if they have any questions. My clients know I am available 24/7 to answer questions, concerns via text message, email and Instagram. I also reach out to clients I haven’t seen in a while and invite them back in for a facial. And of course, building your social media presence is essential!
What are your tips for keeping your books full? Clients are coming to you as the expert to guide them to reach their skin care goals. Whatever frequency you think is necessary to help them achieve that, then recommend they come back and see you. Great skin comes by appointment!
You are known for your work ethic. How do you stay motivated? Find someone who’s career you want to emulate. For me, that person is Melissa Fox. I love her so much and respect her immensely. I am so thankful to have her in my corner. She set the bar high for me from day one with her endless waitlist, full book and loyal clients. I thought, “If she can do it, so can I!” I’m continuing to follow her lead and am always looking to increase my income potential. I also get a selling high, so that keeps me going all day!
How do you approach clients about retail products and home care? I ask a lot of questions, particularly about their main concerns and skin care goals. I then select retail products to address those concerns. I explain it as an essential step to achieving those goals and maintaining optimal facial results. They are making an investment in their skin.
What is the best advice for other estheticians struggling with selling products to facial clients? Remember this: “Find a need and fill it.” Instead of thinking of it as recommending, be the solution to their skin care problems. Flawless skin lies in the products you have to offer, and not recommending them would be a disservice.
How do you maintain a worklife balance?
What do you look forward to the most about going to work every day?
What’s your favorite hobby outside of work?
I love our Flawless team and our clients. We are truly blessed! We laugh a lot! I love seeing results and hearing positive feedback daily! When clients message me that they are in love with their skin, I can’t wait to help others feel the same each day.
What is your favorite type of skin to treat? Acne skin is definitely the most rewarding to treat. When you get them clear and see the difference in their confidence, it’s amazing. But I love all skin!
I’m still trying to figure that one out. It’s a work in progress. When you’re passionate about what you do, it’s not really working. The lines between work and life get blurred.
I browse other skin care experts on Instagram to learn new product combinations, facials, and get content ideas. I love learning how to make better content. I also enjoy time with my Fiancé Ryan and puppy Leeloo.
What part of your skills are you currently trying to cultivate and improve? I’m always trying to improve and continue learning. Facial massage, how to stay on the cutting edge, better home care recommendations, extractions. I’m never satisfied!
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Spa
1
NEWS 2
Anti-Stress Massage Blend from Eve Taylor
Aqua Peel Series 2 from Spa Equipment Gallery
Calm the mind and strengthen the nervous system. Tension and stress are eased through this comforting aroma containing a synergistic blend of mandarin, orange, lavender, marjoram, grapefruit, petitgrain and ylang ylang.
Smooth away dead, dull cells for skin that it is instantly brighter and smoother with the Aqua Peel microdermabrasion machine. This effective and relaxing oxygen facial treatment stimulates deep into the skin for a firmer and more sculpted look, while hydrating and firming serums penetrate deeply through the skin’s surface.
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spaequipmentgallery.com
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Zemits CoolRestore from Advance Esthetic Eliminate local fat deposits and achieve a slimmer figure with non-invasive technologies. One of the most powerful cryo systems, Zemits CoolRestore uses direct Cyro contact therapy versus indirect like other brands on the market. It reaches temperatures as low as -18 degrees celsius and as high as 45 degrees celsius.
advance-esthetic.us
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Dr. Grandel Hyaluron Moisture Flash Take a dip in cool water with a refreshing burst of moisture. This ampoule contains “MicroHyaluron,” which spreads into the deepest layers of the skin, instantly producing a fine, glowing and plumped complexion.
grandel.com
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CLARITY # Miamicongress20
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October 25 & 26, 2020 Hyatt Regency Hotel Miami & James L Knight Center
The only all-inclusive educational experience for skin care and spa professionals. Two-day ticket includes premier exhibit hall access with live Main Stage, Advanced Conferences, and Workshops.
Business Conference • Makeup Conference • Lash Conference Workshops • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
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LET’S GET PERSONAL
How to WOW your prospects and clients through personalized marketing by Louis Silberman
We all have our favorite restaurants, but what makes us choose one over the other? Why do we go back, time and again, to Restaurant A when there are ten other perfectly good places nearby? For some people, it’s all about the food. They don’t care if a place is a hole-in-thewall, as long as it serves the best burgers, tacos, pizza, seafood, paella, or fried rice they’ve ever eaten. For others, it’s about supporting small, local businesses—mom and pop-type restaurants where customers feel like family. And for the rest, it’s more about the atmosphere. Dining out is an adventure to them, and they want to be in the know and feel a part of the trendy dining scene. They also want something they can’t duplicate at home. There are many reasons we choose one restaurant over another, but for me, it’s about the customer service experience (though food and atmosphere count, too)! Maybe that’s because I’m in the service industry, and I know what it takes to deliver top-level service consistently.
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business Let’s Get Personal
In the Treatment Room
My favorite restaurant in Dallas, hands down, is Nick and Sam’s Steakhouse. Yes, the food is delicious, and the atmosphere is elegant, but the thing that keeps me returning is how personalized their service is. For example, I always ask them to make a sangria cocktail for me—it’s not on the menu, and friends have teased me that it might be a “little” high maintenance. It consists of Pinot Noir wine, fresh berries, honey, lemon, and club soda. I remember the second or third time I went there. My special drink was waiting for me at my table with a card next to it and my name on it. How did they do that? Well, they wrote down my recipe in my customer profile! Now, that’s what I call going the extra mile.
How can you deliver more personalized service? Whether you’re sending out an email or text with the latest news and specials, delivering a radio advertisement, posting on social media, or even talking about products and services to a client in the treatment room, choose your words as though you’re speaking to one person and one person only. Instead of saying “Age spots got you down?” (which sounds impersonal), you could say something along the lines of “Are you bothered by hyperpigmentation? Are you tired of spending time and money applying expensive foundations to cover up the spots you wish weren’t there?” Phrasing it this way allows the reader or listener to picture themselves in the scenario you’re describing. 30
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A similar example is the good ole infomercial: Think of the difference between “Who wants to lose 30 pounds?” (impersonal) versus “How many times have you tried losing weight, only to find yourself heavier than when you started a diet? Are you frustrated because you have two sets of clothes, one that used to fit and one that seems like it will never fit again?” In the second scenario, you describe something that many people experience but phrase it in a more personal way so that they can relate.
Personalized Direct Marketing Keeping detailed notes about all of your clients’ preferences, favorite products, likes, and dislikes, spending habits, etc. is crucial to personalized marketing. Consider these two emails: one says simply, “Sunscreen on sale this month;” the other states, “Hi Kelsey, I noticed you last bought sunscreen three months ago and might be running low. I’m running a 50% off special right now on your favorite XYZ sunscreen— the non-greasy one without scent, as I know you prefer that. Would you like me to set one aside for you when you come next week?” Big difference, right? You can do the same thing with packaged treatment plans and products based on your customers’ preferences. For example, if they always book your anti-aging facial, offer them a special price on a series of five along with discounts on anti-aging products that compliment your services in-between visits.
At Aveda Institutes, facials typically begin by the aesthetician offering clients their choice of essential oil (aka, a “sensory journey”). I love this idea because it gets the customer involved in their treatment, and it’s not just a treatment but a total pampering experience customized exclusively for them. You can borrow from this concept by giving clients a choice in the products you use: “Do you prefer citrus-based scents or minty?” You can also ask whether they prefer hot stone therapy, gentle or firm massage, talking during treatment or not, and even what kind of music they like to hear during facials. There are so many ways you can personalize their experience with you so that, every single time, they feel as though they’re your most valued client.
Summary Competition in our industry is intense, and as we slowly begin to reopen after COVID-19, it will be even more so. Now is the time to step up your game, not relax into it! The businesses that will survive but thrive will be those that rethink their entire way of doing business. It’s going to take true grit and creativity to stand apart from the crowd, but it’s definitely possible. Go the extra mile to make your customers’ experiences truly memorable. And don’t forget to have fun doing it.
Louis “The Laser Guy” Silberman is CEO of National Laser Institute, a national cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center founded fifteen years ago, and owns medical spas in Scottsdale and Dallas. He’s the author of Make It Happen Online and a motivational marketing speaker. Silberman created the sixth most visited health/beauty website and was a semifinalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014. Contact him at louis@nationallaserinstitute.com and follow him on Instagram at louisthelaserguy.
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NAVIGATING
THROUGH FINANCIAL UNCERTAINTY Strategies and resources to help spas and estheticians during an economic crisis by Mara Shorr, BS, CAC; Jay A. Shorr, BS, MBM-C, CAC; Robert C. Deters BS, CAC
Let’s face it: we had no idea of the extent or impact that COVID would have on our industry and the economy as a whole. However, many of us have experienced shutdowns in the past. Whether it be hurricanes, snowstorms, tornados, or any other variety of environmental catastrophe, an extended closure has always been a very real possibility. But now that we understand what these can do to our businesses, it is time to create a plan, so you aren’t caught unprepared in the future. Any emergency financial contingency plan should be specific to your business. Your team is made up of talented and unique individuals, each with their challenges and commitments. A generic “one size fits all” plan will not work. Take the time to take a good hard look at your practice’s finances. Talk to your employees about any planned changes and try to get their input. Do your due diligence to address their concerns and identify any unique hardships they may face. Most importantly, keep the lines of communication open throughout the planning and execution phases.
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business Navigating Through Financial Uncertainty
After assessing the situation and laying the groundwork for your plan, make sure you’re analyzing your cash flow. Know where your money is coming from and where it needs to go. It may be that your budget is going to need to stretch incredibly thin, so make a thoughtful analysis of what is essential to the operation of your business. Make sure you have a tight grip on your finances, both business and personal. Reach out to lenders for assistance with any outstanding debt. Reach out to your landlord and see if you can get any relief from rent until you can reopen. Reach out to credit card companies and request a lower rate. Additionally, many device manufacturers and vendors are offering varying levels of relief to their clients. Remember, your account is valuable to them. Many are willing to meet you halfway through
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either restructured payments, lowered rates, and/or deferments. In addition to managing your payments, take a look at your other expenses, and consider making cuts on everyday items. Preserving your existing cash reserves are paramount. Look for ways to save money in your practice. After a thoughtful review, you’ll be surprised by how many valuable dollars are going to waste on silly things. Make sure you have a reasonable budget and stick to it. Don’t look at your budget as an ultimatum, but think of it more as just a thoughtful plan for how you’re going to spend your money. As an owner, you likely work with a team to help manage all of the moving parts of your finances. Accountants, bookkeepers, financial planners, and the rest may make your life easier, but that is no excuse not to understand where your cash is going!
All of the fear about the current state of things stem from uncertainty. Seek out education and do your best to learn everything you can about the situation. This is especially important when it comes to your finances, so brush up on your financial acumen! As service providers, and really as artists, oftentimes your work comes at the expense of the “business” side of things. Like giving a client spectacular lips or softening wrinkles, practice makes perfect! Make sure you have a good understanding of your Profit & Loss Statement as well as your Balance Sheet. If you don’t understand, ask for help! There are many resources online to allow yourself to have at least basic financial literacy. Oftentimes, your CPA or bookkeeper is happy to help as well. Once your numbers make sense to you, and you have a good under-
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business Navigating Through Financial Uncertainty standing of your cash flow, you can look for opportunities. Numbers tell a story. They can tell you what your clients’ favorite procedures are, and who your biggest fans are. Take a close look at your most valuable procedures and clients. Analyze your best-selling retail products. Find out what makes these things great or not so great. Cut procedures and products that take up valuable time and resources and don’t give you the return on your investment. The time you spend analyzing your business now will only help you improve in the future. While you may be unable to generate revenue, you can still find ways to grow. Be proactive about making changes now. The harsh reality is that many practices do not have the cash reserves to survive an extended shutdown. Battening down the hatches and hoping to wait it out simply may not
be an option for them. Fortunately, many states and the federal government have created assistance programs to help small businesses survive. Make sure you are aware of the resources in your area and utilize them. Many of these programs provide immediate relief in the form of low-interest loans. A vital cash infusion that you can use to pay your employees, rent, or pay down other debt. Despite all the uncertainty surrounding the times and the state of the economy, practices are still finding ways to generate revenue. Since the COVID-19 shutdowns impacted many states, many facilities have seen online retail platforms become their saving grace. A strong online store is a phenomenal way to bring in much needed revenue during an extended shutdown. There are many options out there for creating an online store, and many product manufacturers have resources to help get one set up as well. Online stores can sell everything from skincare products to e-gift cards. Get creative with your offers! When all is said and done, the world will eventually return to some semblance of normal. When it does, we need to be prepared to move forward. An extended shutdown will teach you a lot about your facility, your team, and yourself as a business owner. An unprecedented event like this is exactly that, unprecedented. But it is not impossible or even improbable that something like this will happen again. Hopefully, this event taught you some very valuable lessons that will minimize the impact of any future occurrences. With this test comes opportunities. And with some careful planning, diligence, and a little creativity, your practice can endure and come out stronger on the other side. 36
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Business
NEWS
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BABOR Introduces New Clean Beauty Line! High performance skincare meets clean beauty with the new CLEANFORMANCE line formulated with sustainable, high-powered natural ingredients like pre-biotics and pro-biotics. Some of the collection includes a moisture glow serum, deep cleansing pads, and a clay multi cleanser!
us.babor.com
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Help Herbal Skin Solutions Support the NAACP Foundation “We strive for our community to be all inclusive and rich in diversity because it is our uniqueness that makes us beautiful.” You can wear your support on your sleeve and join the Glow Gang - a stand in solidarity for the BIPOC community and a way to support the NAACP. Shop the cause online at bonfire.com/glowgang.
herbalskinsolutions.com
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Golden Honey Nourishing Mask Sells Out in 6 Days! Skin Script enjoys providing seasonal enzyme/mask duos for their aestheticians so they have something new and interesting to work with each month. The seasonal mask for July, 2020 was the Golden Honey Mask (paired with the Eucalyptus Enzyme). It’s a water-free, humectant-rich mask with Sunflower Oil, Royal Epigen P5 and Allantoin to boost the skin’s moisture leaving a hydrated smooth surface. The mask was such a hit this year it was gone before the month of July even started!
skinscriptrx.com
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esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM From a calming acupuncture treatment
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month!
to a glowing facial, Esthetician Edit is hitting up all of the best spots to check in and see how all of you are doing post-shutdown. Which seems to be better than ever! We had the opportunity to experience our Spa of the Month firsthand at the Aqualia Spa by ESPA at the Acqualina Resort and Spa. We loved meeting Spa Director Catherine Davalle and her staff who were so gracious throughout our entire experience.
• #MarketingMika received an amazing facial at Sana! Keep an eye out for the full interview with Sana Skin Studio next month.
• Nourish and replenish the skin with The Balm from Sorella Apothecary! Check out our full review on blog.lneonline.com.
From arrival to departure, we felt safe and secure with all of the precautionary and sanitation measures put in place. Mika and I both experienced the deeply relaxing Sound Care Massage. Did you know that in Europe sound therapy is used in patients undergoing general anesthesia to reduce fear and apprehension? The spa uses this form of therapy as a way to alleviate stress and calm the mind and body. It was the perfect way to wrap up a busy week at LNE. The amenities were spectacular and the day was bright and full of color! I even got to take a cute picture in my plush robe (while keeping my
• Our #EtsyEditor taking in the
beautiful day right before her treatment! #AqualinaSpabyESPA
• Subscribe to our digital mag and learn all about the industry’s latest trends directly on your iPhone, tablet, or computer.
Follow 38
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social distancing, of course)! Want to follow more experiences like this? Follow us on Instagram!
Hyperpigmentation Guide
Preventing and treating dark spots for your clients
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NATURALLY EFFECTIVE Treating dark spots with licorice root and other botanicals by Boldijarre Koronczay
Hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult skin conditions to resolve and one of the easiest to cause and aggravate. It is challenging for us as professionals to diagnose effectively and disheartening for our clients when they see unsightly dark spots that seem to appear overnight. Clearly articulating the source and causes of hyperpigmentation will assist in initiating a dialogue with our clients to help them understand their newfound condition. Treatment for hyperpigmentation does not come easily; it takes commitment from both the esthetician and the client. This commitment includes consistent and frequent therapy and lifestyle changes that play a role in the overall outcome. Without diligence and follow-through, our clients can be back to square one in their condition faster than they can say “melanocyte�.
NATURAL INGREDIENTS TO TREAT HYPERPIGMENTATION Natural treatments for addressing hyperpigmentation are gaining popularity due to an increased understanding of the potential side effects of more aggressive treatments.
These treatments include chemical peels, hydroquinone, microdermabrasion, and laser resurfacing. While they are effective treatments for some, many experience side effects from these harsher treatments, including hyperpigmentation. These risks and potential side effects make natural, botanical treatments an appealing, viable option. Botanical treatments can improve the issue without causing additional harm or damage.
LICORICE ROOT Licorice root extract comes from the perennial herb, Glycyrrhiza glabra. It is found in many food and dietary supplements to treat a variety of health concerns. When used in cosmetic formulations, licorice root extract possesses unique compounds that can help inhibit tyrosinase activity, boost antioxidant support, and reduce inflammation. Conveniently, these are the main factors in treating, preventing, and controlling hyperpigmentation in the long term. The primary bioactive components of licorice root are glabridin and liquiritin. Glabridin has demonstrated the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity better than commonly used,
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Hyperpigmentation Guide
kojic acid. Additionally, glabridin has been shown to inhibit inflammation and melanogenesis or the creation of new melanocytes. Liquiritin contains many properties that assist in treating hyperpigmentation, including the ability to disperse melanin, and has been shown to be useful in treating melasma topically. Alongside glabridin and liquiritin, licorice root contains other components, such as glabrene and isoliquiritigenin, that contribute to the strong inhibitory function. These botanical chemicals have shown a 16x greater skin lightening effect than the widely used chemical hydroquinone, without harmful side effects.
Additional Effective Botanicals: • Arbutin is a naturally occurring alternative to hydroquinone without the toxic effects. Arbutin is most well known to be found in the dried leaves of the bearberry plant but can also be found in several different plant species, such as blueberries and pears. It boasts the ability to reverse tyrosinase activity and inhibit melanin production. • GigawhiteTM is a trademarked blend of various alpine herbs such as peppermint leaf, yarrow, and mallow flower, containing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. GigawhiteTM inhibits the production of tyrosinase and has vasoconstriction properties. These beneficial aspects help to control the inflammatory reaction in the skin that can trigger hyperpigmentation. • African potato, or South African star grass, is an herb with an underground stem that looks like a potato. It is rich in plant sterols possessing anti-inflammatory and free radical scavenging effects. The main constituent, hypoxoside, has been shown to inhibit tyrosinase and reduce melanin production in hyperactive melanocytes.
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Botanical treatments can improve the issue without causing additional harm or damage. Mainstream professional treatments typically include aggressive peels such as Jessner solutions and Trichloroacetic acid (TCA); however, addressing the condition with newer and less harsh acids can reduce side effects, downtime, and the risk of worsening the condition. A slow and steady approach will allow you to achieve the most desired results for your clients safely. While every case of hyperpigmentation is different and requires customized treatment, these are some ideal ingredients to look for in professional peels: • Pyruvic acid is an alpha-keto acid. Pyruvic acid is a newer, novel acid known for the treatment of many skin issues such as acne, scarring, and pigmentation disorders. It contains keratolytic, or protein dissolving, properties, and pyruvic’s small dimension allows for it to penetrate quickly and deeply into the skin, without creating excessive sensitivity. Additionally, pyruvic acid contains antioxidant abilities that reduce melanin production, making it an ideal peel ingredient for hyperpigmentation. • Encapsulated salicylic acid is an upgraded form of the beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid. This upgrade includes a vegetable lipid encapsulation, which creates a time-release effect, allowing the acid to remain active for longer in the skin, all while avoiding the irritation and heat of a traditional salicylic acid peel. Due to its exfoliating and antiinflammatory properties, encapsulated salicylic acid can lend great benefit to the condition of hyperpigmentation.
• Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that is derived from the bitter almond. It has one of the largest molecule sizes of the AHAs, allowing it to penetrate slowly, reducing potential inflammatory responses and irritation. Mandelic acid is particularly well suited for lightening and brightening sensitive hyperpigmented skin types and darker skin tones less tolerant of more aggressive acids. Additionally, it can be combined with salicylic acid in chemical peels for an even more effective treatment. Frequency and consistency are the best approaches to hyperpigmentation treatments. Natural products, including licorice root, pyruvic acid, encapsulated salicylic acid, and mandelic acid, effectively reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Of course, the key to any effective treatment plan is a regular professional regimen and consistent home care protocol. The best approach to treating hyperpigmentation is to be diligent, patient, and set realistic expectations of yourself and your clients.
Boldijarre Koronczay, President of Éminence Organic Skin Care, is an icon of the spa industry, having personally trained more than 250,000 estheticians and spa professionals in the past two decades. As an innovator of the organic movement, Boldijarre was honored with the International Spa Association’s Visionary Award for his lifelong dedication to education and organic wellness.
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LED LIGHT THERAPY &
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The cure for all of your skin woes by Pam Cushing, R.N.
From fad diets to the latest age reversing products and procedures, anti-aging trends come and go. One trend that never goes out of style is the desire for clear, healthy, and youthful-looking skin. And it isn't just the celebrities looking for the fountain of youth, we all want to age gracefully and look our best. There are a variety of environmental and genetic factors that can lead to skin damage and hyperpigmentation. Just a little research on prevention and treatment options can become overwhelming pretty quickly. Many estheticians don't realize just how effective LED light therapy can be in dealing with hyperpigmentation and other skin issues.
CAUSES AND CONCERNS OF HYPERPIGMENTATION Melanin, a natural skin pigment, plays an essential role in preventing ultraviolet light-induced skin damage. Stimulation of the melanocytes results in the release of tyrosinase, an enzyme that converts tyrosine through chemical reactions to produce melanin. The dendrites then transport the melanin to the keratinocytes. The deposition of melanin is determined by whether these dendrites are epidermal or dermal. Hyperpigmentation results from an accelerated increase in the production of melanin by the melanocytes. Multiple factors increase the incidence of pigmentation, including ultraviolet radiation, hormonal alterations, genetic predispositions, ethnicity, and inflammatory processes. We are now increasingly more aware of the negative impact of environmental pollution and its role in pigment. Constant exposure creates a low-grade inflammatory reaction in the skin, leading to an increase in sensitive, reactive skin, pigmented lesions, and uneven skin tone.
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Hyperpigmentation Guide Given the negative psychosocial impact that hyperpigmentation has on individuals, it is one of the major concerns presented in clinics, salons, and spas. There are various modalities available to treat hyperpigmentation, and which method will achieve the best result is dependent on the causative factor. A detailed skin assessment, including medical history and social lifestyle, will guide the specialist to the appropriate and effective pathway. The use of a Woods lamp or skin analysis device will help in identifying both epidermal and dermal pigment. This is vital when managing client expectations in terms of outcome, resolution, and long-term management. Topical treatments and a series of chemical peels will lighten and lift epidermal pigment. Dermal pigment, however, is more challenging.
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When appropriately utilized, proven red and near-infrared wavelengths can combat the signs of aging. These specific wavelengths of light energy are clinically verified to enhance the body's natural ability to generate collagen and elastin by activating the fibroblast cells. And the research available shows the positive impact of LED light therapy and its effectiveness in dealing with hyperpigmentation. Studies by Lee et al (2007) demonstrated a significant decrease in melanin production with a 90% decrease in inflammation and pigmentation after repeated blue and red LED sessions. Kim et al (2012) analyzed various wavelengths from 415 to 940 nanommeters and reported a significant decrease in tyrosinase with infrared LED with wavelengths at 830, 850, and 940 nanometers.
IMPACT OF LED TREATMENT
MELASMA
Laser therapy is known to be effective in treating hyperpigmentation resistant to topical treatments and chemical peeling. Yet, it's not just a matter of lifting and lightening the pigment but also regulating and reducing the amount of melanin production and transport to maintain a longer-lasting result. With this in mind, would the same principle apply when using light-emitting diode (LED) therapy? There is evidence that LED therapy with visible and invisible wavelengths has positive effects in improving ultraviolet damaged skin, including photoaging and actinic keratosis. Red (660 nanometers) and near-infrared light (880 nanometers) effectively reduce erythema and inflammatory reactions in the deeper tissues. As melanin production increases with overexposure to ultraviolet irradiation and inflammatory reactions, the use of red and infrared LED reduces the melanocytes' stimulatory effects. At this time, there is no scientific evidence to support the use of green wavelengths for the treatment of pigmentation. Green is a short wavelength incapable of reaching the target cells in the dermis.
Melasma is a type of pigmentation that can show up as asymmetrical, mottled, facial pigmentation, and appears mostly on the parts of the face exposed to the sun, such as the cheeks, forehead, and chin. It is reported most frequently among people with darker skin tones, with up to one-third of sufferers having a genetic predisposition. This emotionally distressing and chronic condition is challenging to treat. However, a recent pilot split-face study by dermatologist Dr. Daniel Barolet showed benefits when LED light therapy is combined with microdermabrasion for a two-pronged approach. In this study, an initial "mobilization phase" using microdermabrasion was utilized to "open an epidermal window" for the subsequent delivery and absorption of pulsed LED light energy to downregulate highly metabolic dermal melanocytes in melasma. The microdermabrasion was used before the LED treatment to remove the stratum corneum to reduce undesirable deflection of the light energy and to activate a mild tissue response mechanically. The microdermabrasion treatment was followed by an LED treatment using
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There is evidence that LED therapy with visible and invisible wavelengths has positive effects in improving ultraviolet damaged skin. a near-infrared wavelength. This protocol was performed weekly for eight consecutive weeks. The split-face study results showed statistically significant pigment reduction results on the side treated with pulsed light therapy. The inhibition of tyrosinase dramatically reduces melanin production. Reducing the inflammation at the melanocytes reduces melanin transfer with the consequence of a reduction in pigmentation. Hyperpigmentation remains a challenging skin disorder that requires patience and commitment from both the skincare specialist and the client. No single modality will provide the resolution. LED, however, is a safe, easyto-use, risk-free, and highly effective additional tool in managing this condition. Just safe, natural wavelengths of effective, proven light energy.
Pam Cushing is a Celluma Educator and has more than 15 years of clinical experience in aesthetic medicine and 30 years as a senior consultant nurse in the NHS. She holds a Master’s Degree and a postgraduate diploma in Aesthetic Medicine. She is vice president of the Society of Mesotherapy and Consultant Educator in Skin Science. Pam is the founder and director of an independent training academy and a successful aesthetics clinic. She is a highly respected international educator in all aspects of skin care and a diverse range of aesthetic treatments. For more information on LED Light Therapy, visit celluma.com, email info@celluma.com or call 714-978-0080.
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GETTING TO THE ROOT
Addressing hyperpigmentation in the treatment room by Marconi Rodas
Nothing enters our treatment room more than a client with concerns about hyperpigmentation. And nothing can be as frustrating and tricky to treat for both you and your clients. But what exactly is it, and how can you tackle it to ensure a successful turnaround for your treatments? Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common signs of aging and usually a harmless condition, where patches of skin become darker in color than the surrounding skin. Melanin is the brown pigment that produces our skin's color and darkening occurs when an excess of that melanin forms deposits in the skin. Hyperpigmentation can affect any skin tone, lighter or darker. However, some people are just a bit more prone to it than others. It can also vary in its onset. Hyperpigmentation can result from years of sun exposure and then slowly appear over time, or it can appear swiftly and suddenly.
TYPES OF HYPERPIGMENTATION The causes of hyperpigmentation can vary from hormonal changes to environmental factors and lifestyle choices. Even skin conditions like acne can leave dark spots after the condition clears. Other causes of dark spots are injuries or trauma to the skin, including simply picking a blemish or an incision from surgery. Freckles, which are inherited characteristics, are small brown spots that appear anywhere on the body, but most common on the face, the arms, and the back. Another common form of hyperpigmentation is what your clients will call "age spots." They occur from sun damage and excess sun exposure. These small darkened patches are usually found on the hands and face or other areas frequently exposed to the sun. It is important to note that anything you deem suspicious, such as oddly shaped spots or a spot that has grown since the last time you saw your client, should be addressed by the client's physician.
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Hyperpigmentation Guide Hyperpigmentation caused by hormonal changes and imbalances is known as melasma or chloasma. These spots are similar in appearance to age spots but are larger areas of darkened skin. For example, pregnancy can trigger the overproduction of melanin that causes the 'mask of pregnancy' on the face. Women who take contraceptives, or birth control pills, can also develop hyperpigmentation because their bodies undergo hormonal changes similar to those of a pregnant woman.
TREATING THE UNDERLYING ISSUE You have all sorts of products and gadgets in your arsenal. But when a client is on your treatment table and they tell you their concern is acne scarring, but they still have active acne, address the acne and breakouts first! This is key with any condition causing pigmentationtreat the source before you handle the pigment. If you go ahead and work on brightening dark spots, but don't address the acne, hormones or any other culprit of the pigment, you will be in an endless cycle, where the source of the issue will always be tickling those melanocytes to produce more pigment. If your client is a sun worshipper, they need to take care of their skin and reduce sun exposure for multiple reasons immediately. If your client recently started a new hormone-based medication, suggest that they visit their physician to discuss the side effects. Once the culprit is under control, you can move on to the aftermath that is hyperpigmentation.
HYPERPIGMENTATION TREATMENT There are an array of ways you can go about treating dark spots. It is crucial to focus and use products that inhibit melanin formation, exfoliate to brighten existing pigmented areas, and focus on reducing inflammation in the skin. Combatting hyperpigmentation from all these angles will help ensure success and trust from your client. There are plenty of ways to combat these dark50
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This is key with any condition causing pigmentation- treat the source before you handle the pigment. ened spots with the right ingredients. Since hyperpigmentation is the darkening of the skin due to an overaccumulation or uneven distribution of melanin, understanding how pigment is produced is important when treating hyperpigmentation. Knowing and understanding the process will show you where you can disrupt its production. Tyrosinase is a copper-containing enzyme present in plant & animal tissues and plays a significant role in this process. Tyrosinase catalyzes the production of melanin and other pigments from tyrosine by oxidation. It is found inside melanosomes, which are synthesized in the skin melanocytes. Decreasing tyrosinase activity is essential for the prevention of conditions related to hyperpigmentation of the skin, such as melasma and age spots. Inflammation such as hormones, sun exposure, injury, and certain medications can trigger tyrosinase activity. Tyrosinase inhibitors are common agents used in skincare to address unwanted pigmentation since it controls how fast your skin produces pigments. Some great tyrosinase inhibitors include L-ascorbic acid, kojic acid, and azelaic acid. L-ascorbic acid (aka vitamin C) can be used as lightening and brightening agents and provide antioxidant protection from UV rays. Providing your clients with a professional exfoliation experience, such as a chemical peel, will be a game-changer in your facial treatments. Incorporating gentle acids like lactic acid or a cocktail of acids, including kojic acid or azelaic acid, is a great choice. Exfoliation will encourage cell renewal and brighten your client's complexion.
Giving clients an LED light therapy session or series can be another staple when treating hyperpigmentation. Overproduction of melanin is typically a response to inflammation, incorporating anti-inflammatory practices like LED will make all the difference.
PREVENTION When talking about hyperpigmentation, the best approach is always a preventative one. Jumping in front of the issue can be much easier for both you and your clients than treating an existing case of unwanted dark spots. This is where home-care comes in! Having your clients mimic your in-office facial treatments will help boost results and extend the effects of the treatment you provide. This will also hold them responsible and accountable for their progression. If your client isn't already incorporating one, add a broad-spectrum sunscreen to their regimen. You also want to have them on an excellent vitamin C serum. Pigment inhibitors are also key! Hyperpigmentation can be a long battle, but there are plenty of ways to combat these darkened spots with the right ingredients!
Licensed Esthetician and owner of Marconi Castle Skincare, Marconi Rodas has become one of Boston’s most sought after facialists. Since his arrival in the industry, his reputation as a skincare expert has exploded - landing his hands on Hollywood’s top actresses. With training in countries like France and Australia, Marconi has designed his treatments to stand out in a world of enhancements and quick fixes, inspired by his own skin struggles.
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1. Revitalizing Fruit Complex • Nature Pure Clinical Skin Care • naturepure.com 2. Doctor D. Schwab Light Skin™ Renewal Moisturizer • CA BOTANA International Inc. • ca-botana.com 3. Extreme Argan and Carrot Oil Spot Corrector Pen • Makari de Suisse • makari.com 4. Intensive Brightening Serum #2 • E'shee Clinical Esthetic • esheeesthetic.com 5. Zinc Repairing Facial Cream • Vivoderm Natural Skincare • vivoderm.com 6. Advanced Correcting Serum with Illuminotex • Visha Skincare • vishaskincare.com 7. Azelac Ru Brightening Serum • Sesderma • sesderma.com 8. Vitamin C Probiotic Polish • OSEA • oseamalibu.com August2020 LNEonline.com
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1. White Morning Illuninating Face Cream • Karin Herzog USA • us.karinherzog.com White Evening Unifying Face Cream • Karin Herzog USA • us.karinherzog.com 2. Lactic Rescue Toner • NuReveal Skincare • nureveal.com 3. Bright White Serum • Circadia® • circadia.com 4. Anti-Aging Brightening Serum • KERACELL • KERACELL.com 5. Rebooting Night Serum • GR8 Skincare • gr8skn.com 6. Fade To Light™ Serum • YG Laboratories • yglabs.com 7. Anti Hyperpigmentation Serum • Saian Natural Clinical • saian.net August2020 LNEonline.com
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EMPATHY THE
AND
ESTHETICIAN
Learning how to deal with an empathetic heart by Shea Wilson-Lewis, LE, CAC, NCEA Certified
Do you know what the word “Empathetic” means? According to the Encyclopedia of Social Psychology, “Empathy” is often defined as the understanding of another person’s experience by imagining oneself in another person’s situation. As skin therapists, we encounter so many different energies and emotions. Having empathy is such an incredible gift, especially in the service industry. If you define yourself as an empath, then you know how hard it is to come home after a long day of back to back clients and just needing to be left alone so you can sit in silence and process all of the energy that you absorbed in a day. How do you differentiate all of this energy? Who is it? Is what you’re feeling something that belongs to you or, is it something you picked up during the day? It can be so exhausting sifting through the piles and piles of material.
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organic & wellness Empathy and the Esthetician
can also be a challenging technique to master. At the end of the day, while all of these energies are still fresh in your mind, it is time to start storing these energies into their respective compartments. Pay special attention to what force is yours and what emotion belongs to someone else. One suggestion is journaling. Sitting down at the end of the day and writing out everything you think might be related to an emotion that attached to you that day. Getting it out of your head and getting it on paper and then throwing it away or burning it (safely) can help clear some headspace. Also, write down good things that happened that day to add some positivity to your journal and your life.
PRACTICE 4: Self-care
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Being an empath can take a toll on you physically, emotionally, and mentally— anxiety and depression disorders increase. You start to develop potentially addictive habits to numb the pain of everyday life. You love helping people look and feel their absolute best, but you tend to lose sight of your best interests. They don’t teach you this in Aesthetics school. They don’t teach you how to help a mother cope who just lost her child or a young girl who lost her best friend. How to then turn around and put on a happy face because your next client just got engaged or your client after that finally found out she was pregnant after two years of trying. Some cannot imagine how hard it is to switch from one emotion to another in a moment. One part of balancing your empathetic personality with your service to the beauty industry is learning how to manage and categorize these emotions. It sounds simple, I know, but it takes a lot of practice.
chair or position yourself on the floor and relax your body and mind. Take a deep breath in through your nose for five seconds and hold it for seven seconds. Next, exhale even longer for eight seconds and expel the breath out of your belly. Repeat a couple more times until you feel more relaxed. The great thing about breathing techniques is that you can practice just about anywhere.
PRACTICE 1. Breathing
PRACTICE 3: Compartmentalization
Throughout the day, try some simple breathing techniques. Sit in a comfy
By definition, it means to divide sections into categories. Compartmentalizing
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PRACTICE 2. Meditation Sitting still and just being with yourself and your breath can be an incredibly effective practice for empaths. Same as the first practice, sit in a comfortable position in a quiet space. Close your eyes, relax your body slowly, breathe in and out, and focus on breathing. When negative thoughts start to creep in, push them away, and bring yourself back to your breath. Meditation takes a lot of practice. It is often best to start off practicing for just a few minutes and work your way up.
Self-care has become a trending term as of late—an inconceivable method for some. More and more people are aware of how important self-care is, especially those that are highly sensitive but don’t have the strength or, some might say, “time” to do it. It is often incredibly difficult for empaths to feel compassion for themselves because they are too worried about everyone else. One way you can practice self-care is by resting. Our bodies and minds need rest. Don’t worry; your body will let you know when you need it—spending time with family and friends even if you are hanging out watching a movie or playing a game. Exercise is also an essential part of self-care. It releases the feel-good hormones that we all need. Find a hobby that makes you incredibly happy. Think about something you loved as a kid and recreate that. Read, color, paint, ride a bike, go swimming, go out and play with your kids, take up a craft like knitting or sewing, go shopping, grab coffee with friends, etc. Anything that brings you happiness, go out and DO IT! You work hard! You deserve it and don’t let your brain tell you any different.
organic & wellness Empathy and the Esthetician
PRACTICE 5: Gratitude Start each day with a grateful heart. Appreciation can increase positive energy. Start your day with little things like buying the person in the car behind you at the drive-thru coffee. Tell a stranger how much you like their handbag. Be pleasant to the bank teller that seems to be having a rough day. Say thank you to the person that helped carry your groceries to your car. There are infinite ways to show gratitude. It is so incredibly simple.
PRACTICE 6: Listen to your intuition. Don’t ignore it when it is trying to tell you that something isn’t right. Instinct will tell you a lot if you listen to it. It can tell you all you need to know about meeting a person in that first few minutes.
PRACTICE 7: Love yourself This practice can fall into the self-care category. Be proud of who you are. Be proud of the work that you do. Be proud of your sensitive heart and profoundly caring soul. Not a lot of people were born with the gift of empathy. Use it! But don’t forget to use it on yourself too. If you can’t love yourself, then it is incredibly hard to put love into other people. That is a massive part of this industry, isn’t it? Making people feel loved, cared for, unforgettable, and heard. But you won’t be capable of any of that unless you love yourself first. Being an Empath is a beautiful gift that you were blessed to receive. Treasure it. Don’t hide from it. Don’t waste it. Accept it! Do good things with it. It can be hard at times, but now you have the tools to help you along your journey of a lifetime, and what a journey it could be. And when in doubt, remember this quote: “Sensitivity isn’t a weakness. It is Sensitivity that allows us to experience a life of depth. It is Sensitivity that allows us to listen to our deepest needs and dreams. It is Sensitivity that permits us to perceive the intricate beauty and divinity of life.” -Aletheia Luna-
Shea is a Licensed Aesthetician, NCEA Certified Aesthetician, and a Certified Aesthetic Consultant. Shea has been in the esthetic industry for over 15 years and has worked in several areas of esthetics. She has also gained certifications in microdermabrasion, laser therapy, chemical peels, dermaplaning, lash extensions, lash lifts, and microneedling. Shea has
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been voted "Best Aesthetician" by readers of Jonesboro Occasions magazine from 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, runner up in 2018, and winner in 2019. Also, her spa, Carbon Skin and Wellness was voted runner up as Best Spa in Jonesboro, AR as Best of the Best.
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Mood-Boosting
Beauty
Reducing stress and elevating mood through rituals by Kirstie Garrett
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We all know that beauty is way more than skin deep, and we also know that no one ever feels beautiful when they are feeling stressed, sad, grumpy, anxious, tired, or plain angry. It is hardly surprising then that now, more than ever, the beauty and wellbeing industry have an invaluable role in helping to lift the moods of our clients, and ourselves, of course. We are living in extraordinary times with a global pandemic, climate and planet crisis, and political and economic instability worldwide. The beauty and wellbeing industry has historically provided accessible and affordable ‘pick me up’ options in challenging times. “The Lipstick Effect” can be traced back to the Great Depression of the 1930’s - when even in such desperate times, lipstick sales increased as women needed to have something to help them feel good about themselves. Nearly 100 years later, connections between beauty, wellbeing, and mood/mental health are widely acknowledged, and we all realize that the way we are feeling has a lot to do with how we are treating ourselves. Major brands have embraced the ‘hashtag’ #selfcare into their media campaigns, including their professional treatment protocols and at-home product application advice. As industry professionals, we should all be able to incorporate both mood-boosting elements into any professional treatment and offer wellbeing after-care advice for clients to take home. We all know the value of a happy client - one that keeps coming back to YOU for more!
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organic & wellness Mood-Boosting Beauty effects the consumer will be looking for. For example, a product smelling of zesty, fruity, minty ‘high notes’ will often claim circulation-boosting, wake-up, energy-boosting effects. Conversely, a product with more heavy, earthy notes is likely to be good for calming anxiety, grounding, relaxation, and sleep. Use the appropriately scented products in your opening and closing rituals. Having a choice of rollerballs or pre-blended oils (relaxing, reviving, head-clearing, emotional release) to offer the client to ‘choose their mood’ adds a personalized touch. Opening each treatment with a two-minute relaxation hand massage or head or shoulder massage and including some guided breathing techniques are really simple and effective ways to ignite the senses and initiate the mood-enhancing effects of treatment.
The Power of Breathwork
Creating Rituals in the Treatment Room ‘Ritual’ is back as a beauty buzzword, as brands encourage us to consciously connect with skincare routines. Introducing a ritual element to every treatment, no matter how small, gives us a great opportunity to practice mood-boosting beauty. Creating a ‘Signature Opening and Closing Ritual’ for your treatments can help set you apart from other service providers. A signature opening will help your clients relax into the treatment and help the body to recognize this as a time of regeneration and repair. The closing ritual will gently bring the client back into the real world and reinforce the feeling of overall wellbeing, that good work has been done, and that they are ready to step back out into the world.
Igniting the Senses Inhaling aromas is one of the easiest and quickest ways to change your mood. Using clean, natural candles, dif64
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fusers, or burners in your treatment area can immediately create a sense of calm, peace, and relaxation before treatments even begin. As an aromatherapist, I have read many clinical trials on how aromas in products can directly affect your mood. With a growing interest in aromatherapy (working on emotions and physiological effects) and aromachology (the study between smell and purely mood), from both consumers and practitioners, there is an increasing need to understand how it works. Once odorant molecules bind to olfactory receptors in the middle part of the nasal cavity, they initiate a cascade of neurological processes that activate different parts of the brain and finally lead to the conscious experience of smell. The perception of smell then feeds back to the neurophysiological processes to modulate mood, emotions, cognition, and behavior. Different aromas help with different moods, and many products now refer to both the mood and physiological
Empty the lungs of air, breathe in quietly through the nose for 4 seconds, hold the breath for the count of 7 seconds, and exhale forcefully through the mouth, pursing the lips and making a ‘whoosh’ sound. Then repeat the cycle up to 4 times. Try this 4-7-8 technique with your clients to improve their mood state before a treatment. You can enhance this inhalation by heating a product with a relaxing aroma between your hands (rubbing hands together to release the aroma of the product), then floating your cupped hands’ palms down, above the client’s face as they inhale - removing them for the exhale. This 4-7-8 technique is not only a good way to close a treatment, but also a great ‘take-home’. Giving your client tools and products to continue a mood-boosting beauty routine at home adds value to your treatments and their experience.
The Rise of Self-Care Beauty Facial massage guides and using beauty tools like gua sha - the application of products is now as important as the ingredients contained within the products because mood-boosting effects
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organic & wellness Mood-Boosting Beauty cannot come just from a bottle. The consumer has to participate, engage, and connect to achieve a mood boost. In this digital age, where we purchase online and watch ‘how to videos’, missing the counter-demonstration and deprived of human touch, we are learning again how to care for ourselves, which takes us back to perhaps the most prominent beauty ‘hashtag’ right now, #selfcare. And it’s not just for Sundays - although creating a weekly routine and carving out extra ‘Me-Time’ on a Sunday is a great way to get yourself facing in the right direction, on a positive path, and heading into the new week positive and energized.
Mental Health Benefits More and more people are becoming instinctively drawn to treatments, methods of application, and products that promote a mood-boosting and wellbeing connection. The beauty and
wellbeing industry is celebrating how morning and evening skincare and makeup routines have the power to change moods. Supported mental health research findings demonstrate that a routine can be hugely beneficial to those struggling with anxiety, creating a moment for reconnection with the self, bringing back a sense of calm and focus. This shift in consumer interest, away from products which simply change the way we look to also the way we feel, means we are more interested in daily rituals for home application too. From AM and PM routines, facial massages, to cleansing the skin with intention, it is important that we encourage our clients to dedicate time to not only better their skin, but improve their mental health through self-care practices. After all, the grass is greener where you water it, and being happy in your own skin is a deep-rooted and long-lasting form of happiness that can
be passed through generations. Let’s be proud of our industry and the part it plays in people’s everyday wellbeing. How amazing it is to be able to do a job that helps change someone’s mood for the better.
Kirstie Garrett has worked in the beauty and wellbeing industry for 25 years. She co-founded the natural skincare range 'Balance Me', and then moved on to create Ebo - Seasonal Skincare and Wellbeing -100% natural and eco friendly, affordable luxury skincare solutions. Kirstie’s been treating Hollywood A-listers, professional athletes, stressed-out mums, and busy professionals for over 20 years with her legendary aromatherapy and holistic treatments. Kirstie is currently Director of Training for the cult brand 'Legology' and works as a consultant for various beauty and wellbeing brands.
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NEWS 2
Seasonal Essential Facial Oil from ebo
Shir-Organic Pure Coconut Oatmeal Cleanser
Match your skincare to the seasons, giving your body exactly what it needs at the different times of year. Watch your natural luminosity shine through with ebo’s seasonal essential facial oils. Five drops are all you need!
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Soften and smooth dry, flaky skin with Coconut, rich in vitamins. Calm, soothe and cleanse the skin with Oatmeal. This cleanser, infused with all natural Jojoba beads, offers an ideal gentle exfoliation while providing the moisturizing qualities of jojoba oil.
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CBD and CBG Tincture from Susan’s CBD Feeling stressed and having trouble sleeping? With 1,000mg of CBD an 1,000mg of CBG along with full spectrum hemp oil, this new formula provides ultimate relaxation and the deepest sleep. CBG is studied for its powerful anti-inflammatory, calming effects and potential to regulate mood.
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Mango Mend Treatment Balm Mango extract goes deep, soothing and moisturizing dry skin, while safflower and sunflower heal, regenerate and condition on the cellular level. Added aloe and jojoba oil help curb inflammation, reducing itching and swelling while accelerating the skin’s natural healing process overnight.
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SUMMER BLUES
Bold Shadows to Try This Season by Aurora Solis
Blue is trending this Summer for a bold makeup look that demands all eyes on you. I know what you’re thinking, didn’t we leave this makeup trend behind in the ’90s? Like all beauty trends, fashion designers and makeup artists are putting a new spin on the vivid blue look and accepting blues of all shades, tints, and hues. There are so many different ways to play with the dynamic color from poolside blue to sapphire blue. As makeup artists, testing the waters is always fun, especially when your clients are on board.
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BEHIND THE COLOR BLUE
Poolside Blue: This shade of blue
When you think of blue, what comes to mind? Many people think of the sky and sea. The color is generally associated with expansiveness, open spaces, freedom, imagination, and sensitivity. But not all blues mean the same thing. Different shades of blue have different meanings, some of which are complex and contradicting. While cooler blues are light and friendly, electric and vibrant blues are dynamic and dramatic. Light blues can invoke feelings of calm and balance, bright blues can be energizing and refreshing, and dark blues can feel daring and dangerous. No matter the feeling, the color invites self-expression and can diversify your lookbook. So encourage your clients to think big and think deep, think light, and think boldly. Here are the ways to rock every shade of blue this Summer.
is brighter, but still a bit diffused and is perfect for every skin tone. There are a few ways you can pull off the look while making it look effortless. You can pack on the vibrant shade all over the lids. To make your client look bright and refreshed, you can balance the eyes out with some white on the center of the lids. For a modern and sleek look that turns heads, wing out the outer corners into a graphic cat-eye shape. For wet, dewy eyes that glisten like the pool water, simply apply the blue across the lid and dab a face gloss across the eyes.
Iced Blue: We know it’s Summertime, so you’ll need something to cool of your look. A little frost on the eyes is just what you need to dip your toes into experimenting with the color blue. You can use a cream eyeshadow, a liquid eyeshadow, or shimmer powder eyeshadow to keep it light on the face. Just pat it on with your fingers for a look that’s easy and effortless, and pull the look together with some soft pink lips.
Sky Blue: Soft and diffused like the clear blue sky, a shade of pastel blue is universally flattering. Keep it light and simple with a streak of sky blue liner on the lower lids for a flirty look. Or make it dreamy and apply it all over the lid and crease using a fluffy brush. Then apply some layers of shimmer for a cloud-like effect. If you want to add some dimension, you can also add a different color shimmer blue to the outer half of your lid and blend it outward. You can finish it off with some sky blue on the lower lash line for a sultry effect.
Aqua Blue: Channel your client’s inner mermaid with an aquamarine eye look that is perfect for a night out. You can do a simple one-color turquoise eye by layering it on the eyelid and swooping the same brush under the eye for a smokey, smudged effect. Make a statement with bold winged eyeliner. To make the eyes pop a little more, add a nude gel eyeliner on the waterline, then highlight the brow bone and inner corners of the eyes for lids that twinkle under the moonlight.
TIPS FOR WEARING BLUE EYESHADOW Many of our clients fea r wearing blue becaus e they think they might en d up looking like a clown . You can ensure them the y won’t by using the right bru shes, a long-lasting prime r, and a base shadow to ma ke the color pop and help with blending. If you are going dark with the blue, yo u’ll want to make sure yo u use a transition shad e to neutralize the harsh ness. Apply warm brown on the crease after applying your base shade. It is impo rtant that you can see thi s transition shade even if its subtle.
Deep Blue Sea: I call this one Deep Blue Sea for its dramatic and edgy vibe. You can get this sultry, sexy summer look with a dark, midnight blue. To intensify the look, you can add a shimmery black to the outpart of the look for more depth and a matte black eyeshadow at the eye’s outer corner. You can also add the same shimmer black color all along the bottom lash line. The key here is to blend until you feel the eyes are smokey enough. To even out the look, use a shimmer pink highlighter for the inner corners of the eye and a light yellow eyeshadow on the brow bone. Then, pull it all together with a black winged liner and black volumizing mascara for an added boost.
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Image
NEWS 2
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Lustre Drench Instant Glow Dry Oil From Farmhouse Fresh
I Beauty Flawless Foundation Brush
A shimmery, sun-kissed look comes easy with new Lustre Drench Instant Glow Dry Oil. This fast-absorbing, feathery-light oil brings a warm golden hue to the skin, and a seriously silky feel that’s dry to the touch. Skin is made to feel so magnificently soft, you can’t stop touching it!
Made with dense bristles designed to fit the face's contours, this HD brush is perfect for applying, blending, and buffing makeup to create an airbrushed effect. You can use it to blend the I CONCEAL Flawless Foundation SPF 30!
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Lashaholic Tee from Lash Bee Pro Wear your heart on your sleeve with this comfy tee made with lash-lovers in mind. From baseball hats and tees to tote bags and scrunchies, Lash Bee Pro has all the swag you need! This lashaholic tee is meant for you to own who you are!
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Crown Pro Longwear Foundation This light to medium coverage blendable foundation leaves behind a flawless finish all day long. Achieve a dewy, youthful complexion for your clients and a look that lasts from morning till night! You can use with your favorite Crown foundation brush or Flawless Face Blunder for an even application.
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73................. Advanced Esthetics / Adonyss........................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 76................. Altair Instruments..............................................................................................................altairinstruments.com 25................. AW Advanced Aesthetic Training................................................................................ awaesthetictraining.com 55.................Bella Schneider Beauty............................................................................................. bellaschneiderbeauty.com 36................. Bio France Lab........................................................................................................................ biofrancelab.com 5................... Celluma......................................................................................................................................biophotas.com 67.................Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc................................................................................................................dr-jeff.com 53................. Dermaware............................................................................................................................... dermaware.com 2,3................ Eminence Organic Skin Care.........................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 75................. Equipro USA............................................................................................................................ equipro-bty.com 13................. EuroSpa Aromatics.........................................................................................................eurospaaromatics.com 9................... G.M. Collin Skin Care................................................................................................................... gmcollin.com 66................. Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................................................................... halecosmeceuticals.com 57................. Hawrych MD Lash.............................................................................................................. hawrychmdlash.com 51.................Hempfield Botanicals....................................................................................................hempfielbotanicals.com 43................. Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics.............................................................................................. biellecosmetics.com 47................. Merry Laz Aesthetics USA............................................................................................................. merrylaz.com 26, 27........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami...................................................... Longbeach.skincareshows.com 65................. Silhouet Tone USA LTD........................................................................................................... silhouettone.com 4................... Skin Accents.............................................................................................................................skinaccents.com 35................. Skin Script Skin Care................................................................................................................. skinscriptrx.com 7................... Sorella Apothecary......................................................................................................... sorellaapothecary.com 17................. Sothys USA................................................................................................................................ sothys-usa.com 69................. Viktoria Dé Ann.................................................................................................................... viktoriadeann.com 31................. Vitelle Labs.................................................................................................................................. vitellelab.com
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