LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals March 2018
$7.50
The QUEEN OF FRUITS
Packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, Mangosteen promotes skin renewal and radiance. Explore the Éminence Mangosteen Lactic Collection.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card
Radiance Revealed UNCOVER THE SECRET WITH LACTIC ACID COMPLEX
84%
agree pore size is reduced * and skin texture is refined *
90%
agree skin appears radiant *
If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and BiodynamicŽ skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com. *
In vivo clinical study results, based on application of the complete system for 30 days.
“
Patients that were coming for normal facials that’ve switched over to the HydraFacial are much more pleased with their results.” Jocelyn Leveque, M.D.
face life. face first. Not a facial
See why it’s so much more at hydrafacial.com/lne HydraFacial is a registered trademark of Edge Systems LLC. Copyright 2017 Edge Systems LLC. All rights reserved.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #201 on reader service card
from the
editor
Bio-Therapeutic
TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED
SKIN CARE
Being a professional in the skin care and spa industry means being a lifelong student. We must constantly stay on top of the trends and the latest research that drives our ability to treat and heal our clients. A passion for learning is essential to success. Luckily, today there is unlimited access to new information through the Internet, our peers, and publications like LNE & Spa. We are also more connected than ever before. Advanced techniques and innovative formulations
C
from around the world are no longer a distant won-
M
der. This month’s issue of LNE & Spa celebrates skin
Y
care across the globe with our special guide: Korean
CM
Skin Care.
MY
Immerse yourself in the deeply imbedded culture of Korean skin care. See what all the buzz is about, and what implications these trendy textures and ingredients have for professional skin care. Introduce your clients to new and exciting masks, lightweight hydration, and Korean-inspired firming massage to wake up tired and aging skin. Hear from
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card
our experts about how to incorporate these rituals
6
into your spa menu. Education is a catalyst for success! Don’t miss The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia next month. Join me on April 22nd and 23rd for more top-notch workshops, conferences and presentations. Be re-inspired to never stop learning! I hope to see you there! All the best,
bio-therapeutic.com
Cristina Beecham Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com March2018
LNEonline.com
CY
CMY
K
Skin Care for life inside and outÂŽ
shop online anytime at bio-therapeutic.com Exclusive Supplier of all Advanced Technology for Dermalogica and the International Dermal Institute Worldwide Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card
March volume 33 number 3
contents 52
Korean Skin Care Philosophy
18 Stress Free Skin
56
Get Your Glow On
60
Sheet Masks, Please!
65
Facial Mist Photo Shoot
21 Skin News
spa
12 Spring Cleaning Facials
guide
12 Spring Cleaning Facials
Spa of the Month
72
Natural Preservatives in Skin Care
31
Korean Body Scrubs
78
Prenatal Massage
35
Spa News
82
Organic & Wellness News
72 Natural Preservatives in Skin Care
31 Korean Body Scrubs 36
Behind the Spa Door
84
Make Beauty Your Business
38
Connecting Estheticians
86
Lash and Brow Tinting
90
So Spring!
96
Image News
Around the World 44
May I Place You On Hold?
50
Business News
image
business
51 Korean Skin Care Guide
24
o&w
skin
6 From the Editor 98 Advertiser Index
38 Connecting Estheticians Around the World
90 So Spring!
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
8
March2018
LNEonline.com
® EXCLUSIVE PRIVATE LABEL COSMETICS
Color Cosmetics... Skin Care... Mineral Makeup... Brushes & Accessories
• Over 50 Years of Experience • Contract Manufacturing and Filling • R & D Laboratory for Custom Formulations • International Regulatory Department • Trend Setting Color Cosmetics and Quality Skin Care Products • GMP Compliant • Import & Export • Low Minimums
DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA SHOWROOM Coral Trace Office Park, 2605 West Atlantic Avenue, Suite C-102 Delray Beach, FL 33445, USA 1 (561) 272.2008 1 (866) 392.4889 1 (561) 272.2014 (FAX)
www.ladyburd.com
CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS LABORATORY / FACTORY / SHOWROOM 44 Executive Blvd., Farmingdale, NY 11735, USA 1 (631) 454.0444 1 (800) 345.3448 1 (631) 454.0445 (FAX)
sales@ladyburd.com
MIAMI BEACH FLORIDA SHOWROOM 407 Lincoln Road, Suite 10J, Miami Beach, FL 33139, USA 1 (305) 674.1333 1 (800) 263.5743 1 (305) 674.1184 (FAX)
©2018 Lady Burd® Exclusive Cosmetics, Inc.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card
3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134
USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card
Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com
10
ROYAL ROSE FACIAL Antioxidant and Multivitamin Extracts Distilled from Champagne Grapes and Bulgarian Roses. 25% OFF of retail products with the purchase of the Royal Rose Facial Kit. Valid through March 31, 2018
BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com March2018
LNEonline.com
Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Alma Bocanegra Carrie Borzillo Cristina Beecham Dr. Craig Kraffert
Jaclyn Peresetsky Janel Luu Mark Williamson Noreen Young
Pamela Taylor Rachael Pontillo Victoria Tabak
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
COVER RECOVER THE NAME SAYS IT ALL
Cooling Customized cooling agents to cool, relieve, calm and soothe irritated skin, and to awaken and stimulate as an everyday breathable foundation.
Coverage Weightless yet buildable, seamlessly blends for undetectable, breathable coverage to transform to a flawless smooth appearance.
Recovery A blend of healing ingredients to recover skin after treatments, or to continue to improve and protect skin as an everyday foundation.
For more information about this intensive cooling camouflage that accelerates repair with natural coverage call 1-844-7DP-DERM | 1-844-737-3376 or visit us on the web:
Derm.com *Available in 8 shades. Suitable for all skin types and conditions, such as problematic, pigmented, traumatized, aged and sun damaged skin. Cover Recover is a member of the DP Dermaceuticals™ Family of products. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #170 on reader service card
12
March2018
LNEonline.com
Spring
Cleaning Facials
Say hello to dewy skin with these spring cleaning facials! By Carrie Borzillo
Spring is a time for renewal; a time to de-clutter your house, and start fresh. It's also the perfect time to remind your clients of the importance of getting a good spring-cleaning on their skin as well. Savvy spa owners are using this change of seasons as an opportunity to let some of their staple deep cleansing facials shine through on their treatment menus and to help their clients update their at-home skin care routines. Elizabeth Adam, owner of Elizabeth Adam Salon and Day Spa in Chicago, explains why Spring Cleaning the face is so important: "During winter, dry dead skin cells don't fall away as quickly as they should and when they build up, they can leave skin rough as well as contribute to clogged pores, which leads to blemishes. In the dry, cold months, dry skin patches cover clogged pores and clients mistakenly think they have dry skin," she says. It's important to remind clients that it's more likely that their skin is dehydrated, and not just dry, per se. "When one treats dehydrated skin as dry and covers it with heavy creams, two things may happen. First of all, dead skin cells combined with heavy cream create a skin suffocating paste that results in losing the skin's luster. Secondly, it feeds blemish producing bacteria and aids in skin breakouts," adds Adam.
LNEonline.com
March2018
13
skin Spring Cleaning Facials
Spring Purifying/ Recharging Facial One of the many springtime treatments Elizabeth Adam Salon & Day Spa in Chicago offers is the Spring Purifying/ Recharging Facial (90-minutes, $175), which is an intensive treatment that combines alpha and beta hydroxyl acids together with a cellular renewal system and oxygenating actives, resulting in a pronounced radiance effect. This treatment is geared toward clients who not only need a deep cleansing, but are also looking for anti-aging benefits. "In addition to the deep pore cleansing and manual extractions, the client's skin is triple exfoliated, recharged with precious minerals, detoxified, rebuilt with a peptide mask and purified with lymphatic drainage of the face, neck and décolleté," says Adam. The spa also embarks on a "Spring Break Cleaning Service" campaign by offering a Deep Pore Cleansing Facial for two. "We call that Miracle Morning because the special offer is valid Tuesday through Thursday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Both clients save 25 percent off the service price. We send an email to all of our clients and post the offer on our Facebook page. Signs are also posted in strategic places throughout the salon and spa," adds Adam.
Radiofrequency Facial With so many specialty facials on the market, it's common for clients to book the newer, trendy facials and forget about the basics. That's why Maintenance, a medical spa in Beverly Hills, California, promotes their Radiofrequency Facial (75-minutes, $750 per session) during spring to stress the importance of deep cleaning at this time of year. "We educate our clients that deep cleaning goes beyond the pores and surface debris, and addresses the actual skin structure, which is very important. Our Radiofrequency Facial is great because it addresses below 'surface cleaning' to reorganize (contract) the 14
March2018
LNEonline.com
collagen fibers for improvement in superficial fine lines, crepey texture of the skin, and mild to moderate skin laxity," says co-founder Chelsea Hagopian. The treatment works by applying temperature-controlled radiofrequency energy to gently heat the skin to a targeted temperature and time. "This induces an immediate collagen contraction for an instant lift, as well as stimulates long-term collagen remodeling," she adds. An initial series of three treatments ($2,100) or five treatments ($3,000) is recommended, spaced two to three weeks apart with a single maintenance treatment suggested every six months thereafter.
A Fresh Start: Spring Radiance Facial (50-minutes, $135 or 80-minutes, $175) at Bella Santé Spas in the Boston area not only helps to freshen up the skin, but it also helps with seasonal allergies. The face is first cleansed and toned with such key ingredients as sorenia, oligomer, and rose. "Sorenia is a seaside plant that helps to relax the skin. Oligomer has minerals and trace elements. These are essential to the overall well being of the skin. We then exfoliate
with an AHA exfoliating gel or AHA silk based peel," says Bella Santé esthetician Nicole Roketenetz. The facial also includes an eye treatment perfect for combating spring's allergies. "The eye area is one of the most affected areas we see resulting from seasonal allergies," continues Roketenetz. "It causes puffiness, dark circles, patches of dry skin and texture issues. Our gel eye patches have trehalose that binds water to the skin, as well as rosemary, peppermint, chamomile, and lavender, which, together, help to reduce puffiness, dark circles, hydration, and texture issues under the eye." A finishing mask with cucumber, thyme and hyaluronic soothes and hydrates the skin. The final step is a little chat with the client about their current skin care routine to see if it too needs a little spring-cleaning. "When you spring clean your skin, it's a good time to spring clean your home products and skin care routine as well," she adds.
Organic Energizing Facial A f ter co ld w inter mo nths , Spa Ssakwa'q'n at Coeur d’Alene Casino in Worley, Idaho invites their clients to awaken their skin like a spring
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #294 on reader service card
skin Spring Cleaning Facials flower with the Organic Energizing Facial (60-minutes, $85) designed to firm, smooth, detox, nourish, and hydrate skin to give the perfect dewy spring glow. "There is no better way to greet the beautiful spring blossoms than with a restored youthful glow. This facial contains Ayurveda herbs including ashwagandha, which invigorates the skin and removes debris and other impurities from the pores; and cranberry, which is rich in antioxidants to deliver radiant and vibrant skin naturally," says lead esthetician Angie Dennis. The ingredients in the facial are all USDA Organic, non-GMO, and vegan to further drive home the emphasis on getting a good deep cleaning. "In order for anti-aging products to work well during or after a facial, a deep cleanse and exfoliation is needed. Clients should be reminded of the importance of deep cleansing and exfo-
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #133 on reader service card
HC
16
liation, which stimulates cell regeneration," she adds.
Cucumber & Parsley Oxygen Facial Bringing back the moisture after the dry winter months is the mission of the Cucumber & Parsley Oxygen Facial (75-minutes, $120) at Vida Organic Wellness in Seal Beach, California. Cucumber is rich in vitamin C and caffeic acid, which help with inflamed or irritated skin from the cold and windy winter months. It's also hydrating due to its high water content, while parsley, also high in vitamin C, helps to nourish the skin and reduce fine lines. "This is a very hydrating and soothing organic facial that will help your skin regain its moisture while polishing and brightening with a regenerating effect for an instant glow. It also strengthens the vessel walls, oxygenates, and stimu-
lates blood and lymphatic circulation and cell metabolism," says co-owner Julia Donovan. For the additional facial detox benefits, facial cupping therapy is performed allowing for optimal facial lymphatic drainage, circulation, and oxygen flow, which helps to give the face a lift. And, for even more polish, an add-on of Diamond Microdermabrasion is suggested.
Carrie Borzillo is an award-winning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@gmail.com.
H2 Rapid Diffusion Therapy Cream •Provides Instant Hydration with Hyaluronic Acid
•Removes Free Radicals with Hydrogen (H2)
•Reduces Inflammation w/ Curcominoids
Call 1-800-951-7005 www.halecosmeceuticals.com March2018
LNEonline.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #164 on reader service card
Stress Free 18
Skin
March2018
LNEonline.com
damaged skin
Skin is the largest organ of the human body. It serves many functions, one of which includes being the body’s shield against external environmental threats to overall health and skin wellness. Given that skin is the protective exterior, it tends to absorb the greatest amount of stress brought on by the environment. The sun, air, and water are some examples of elements that cause skin damage and accelerated biological aging. Seasonal changes are another factor that can make skin vulnerable. Environmental psychodermatology, the study of how the environment imposes certain kinds of stress on the skin, is an ever-expanding field. By increasing knowledge and understanding of the different environmental aspects that influence the skin, professionals can proactively offer services that work to repair and promote skin vitality.
By Victoria Tabak
Pollution in the Air
Prevent and treat the effects of environmentally
Many sources contribute to air pollution, including vehicle exhaust, coal burning, factory emissions, and smoking. The growing amount of pollution in the air continues to deplete the atmospheric ozone layer. Ozone is a physical defense in the atmosphere against ultraviolet radiation (UV). As the ozone layer progressively thins, the health risks associated with over exposure to UV, including skin cancer, continue to rise. Any kind of combustion that produces smoke is a culprit of elevated carbon monoxide in the air. Carbon monoxide (CO) is a lightweight odorless and colorless gas that has both benefits and disadvantages. CO is critical to purifying the ecosystem of other hazardous gases, but at the same time, it can also be dangerous. Exposure to high concentrations of CO disrupts normal cell activity. Healthy circulation facilitates oxygen to flow freely throughout every cell in the body and is essential for self-sustenance. Inhaled CO threatens the body’s circulatory system by interfering with the blood’s ability to carry oxygen. Accordingly, the skin does not get sufficient amounts of oxygen, and as a result, it becomes progressively dry, dehydrated and colorless. Firsthand smoking attacks the body most aggressively. Nonetheless, second and even third hand smoking prevents skin from maintaining necessary nutrients and vitamins essential to skin health. This disrupts the lipid layer and barrier function of the skin, breaks down collagen fibers, increases free radicals in the body, causes premature aging and in most extreme cases, can cause cancer.
LNEonline.com
March2018
19
skin Stress Free Skin
Many ingredients work successfully to counter the harmful effects of the environment. It is important to use skin care products that are high in antioxidants with ingredients like vitamins A, C, and E that combat cell-damaging free radicals. Resveratrol is a super antioxidant that increases cell longevity. Butcher’s broom is great for promoting healthy circulation and minimizing inflammation. Alpha hydroxy fruit acids stimulate cell turnover and facilitate cellular regeneration. Dead Sea salt and seaweed have efficient detoxifying properties and work to purge the skin of impurities.
Ultraviolet Radiation (UV) UV is electromagnetic invisible light. It passes through sunlight. Moderate and safe UV exposure is beneficial in treating psoriasis and atopic dermatitis and is necessary for the body to synthesize vitamin D. Overexposure, on the other hand, can weaken the immune system, impair vision, and damage healthy cell structure, causing skin to become leather-like. According to the American Cancer Society, “more than 1 million cases of non-melanoma skin cancer diagnosed yearly in the United States are considered to be sun-related.” Sun exposure stimulates melanin production, enabling it to move faster and closer to the surface of the skin as a defense mechanism. This causes pigmentation or a tan to develop. There are different types of UV rays. UVA rays are most easily absorbed and can penetrate as low as the subcutaneous layer of skin. They are harmful to the dermis and cause premature skin aging and wrinkles. UVB rays are responsible for sunburns and are most detrimental in causing skin cancer. UV rays are always active, even when it is cloudy, and are strongest between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. A worry-free and easy way to protect skin from UV exposure is by applying a sun protection with no less than SPF 15 as part of a daily morning routine.
20
March2018
LNEonline.com
Resveratrol is a super antioxidant that increases cell longevity. Water Typically, tap water should be neutral, having a pH ranging from 6.5 to 8.5, but realistically it varies from one town to another. Often, it is also over concentrated with calcium and magnesium carbonates, resulting in hard water. Hard water and/or water high in metals triggers skin issues like dermatitis, eczema, hyperkeratosis, and even clogged pores. In addition, water that has a low pH is acidic. In general, an ideal environment for pathogenic cells, which are harmful, like cancer cells, is an acidic environment. When possible, it is good practice to drink water that is pH neutral, and even better when the water is alkaline.
Spa Rejuvenation Protocol The key to restoring environmentally assaulted skin is to implement the necessary steps and ingredients that will strip the outer damaged layer, and encourage continued cell regeneration. Begin the treatment by doing a double cleanse with a gentle vitamin-rich alpha hydroxy cleanser. On dry cleansed skin, apply a thin layer of 40 percent glycolic peel containing rose stems cells for their DNA repairing action and leave it on for three minutes. Without neutralizing, remove the peel with a cold wet towel. Pat skin dry. Follow with a granule-free Dead Sea salt peel for a deeper exfoliation, and then rinse with cool water. Spray a pH balancing cool herbal toner. Continue treatment by applying a nourishing mask with soothing ingredients like azulene, seaweed, hyaluronic acid and licorice that will work to mois-
turize, purify and restore complexion. After ten-15 minutes, remove the mask with a warm towel. Spray the herbal toner once more. Complete the treatment with a vitamin C and resveratrol rich serum. Follow with an eye-brightening gel containing vitamin K and kojic acid. Next, apply a moisturizing treatment complex rich with healing hippophae berry oil and preferably vitamin D, to offer an alternative to the vitamin D typically synthesized while under the sun. Finally, for daytime treatments, apply a protection cream with no less than SPF 30. Results will be immediately visible. Some minor peeling may occur on day three after treatment. The environment is constantly changing, but so are the advancements, which continue to evolve from people becoming more educated and knowledgeable about the ecosystem. The most powerful role esthetic professionals can play in the world of beauty and holistic wellness is to never stop learning, and pass that knowledge on to our clients.
Victoria Tabak, published beauty expert, two state licensed esthetician, spa consultant, educator and president of Nature Pure Labs, has more than 19 years of experience in the beauty industry along with a Master’s Degree in Business, minor in chemistry. For over a decade, she has taught about emerging breakthroughs in the skin care industry, has inspired many, and contributed to the growth and success of spa owners across the country.
Cellular Rehab Consisting of extracted apple and grape stem cells, Cell-Fix serum by Biopeptix studies have shown these botanical stem cells to act similarly to human epidermal cells by renewing and rejuvenating skin’s natural stem cells, increasing cellular turnover, helping to repair DNA, delaying the aging process of collagen-producing fibroblasts, and restoring elasticity.
386.302.0216 Biopeptixusa.com
Korean Beauty from the “Source” For centuries, chicory root has been a staple in Korean medicines and diets. Embracing the natural benefits, Dermaesthetics has extracted and infused the organic benefits into their Advanced Collagen Formula, helping rebuild and fortify areas of the skin where structural firmness has been lost. Power blended with Soluble Collagen, this product aims to lift and firm as the Korean Chicory Root initiates skin repair and collagen production.
917.881.3752 faithcosmeticsusa.com
213.545.1266 dermaestheticsusa.com
K-Beauty INSPIRED Eyes Inspired by K-Beauty’s innovative approach to skin care, Hydropeptide, created a cooling Hydrogel Eye Mask that immediately hydrates, locks in moisture, provides increased efficiency in ingredient delivery, and boosts collagen production for a plumper, firmer appearance. Caviar extract promotes luminous and balanced skin.
1.800.932.9873 Hydropetide.com
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
In Faith Cosmetic’s proprietary process, complete triple-strand collagen is wrapped around phospholipid nanocapsules enhanced with hyaluronic acid, elastin, and vitamin C. In FAITH PRECARE ESSENCE C, patented Faith Fresh Collagen is delivered deep into the stratum corneum by this revolutionary essence, immediately sinking into the skin, breaking up the nanocapsules, releasing phospholipids and collagen that react quickly to repair and reinforce damaged cellular structures. Firmness, brightness and elasticity are increased while the appearance of fine lines caused by dryness is minimized.
SkinNews
Concentrated Delivery
Visit LNEonline.com for more news LNEonline.com
March2018
21
LUXURY GEM
3 Advanced Wax Formulas deliver optimal hair removal while creating a sense of comfort, calm and confidence. Amethyst Crystal Wax
Scented with aromatic lotus flower
Golden Quartz Wax
Scented with exotic sandalwood
Silver Tourmaline Wax
Scented with soothing rose fragrance
WAX COLLECTION Balance Energy Beauty Harmony Satin SmoothÂŽ has paired the latest waxing technology with finely milled gemstones based on Chakra energy. The vitality, colors and aromas of these mineral-infused waxes will transform your salon or spa to create an unforgettable waxing experience that connects the Body, Mind and Spirit.
facebook.com/SatinSmoothPRO
@SatinSmoothPRO
@SatinSmoothPRO
Š2018 Professional Products Division. www.satinsmooth.com 18SS052166
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #304 on reader service card
Beach House Day Spa Birmingham, Michigan
24
March2018
LNEonline.com
Where bliss meets the beach in this midwestern haven
SPA OF THE MONTH
By Cristina Beecham
Beach (noun): a place of relaxation, rest, and tranquility. This is the world that Lauren MacVean, owner of Beach House Day Spa, wanted to create in the Midwestern haven of Birmingham, Michigan. Designed to mimic a beach getaway, Beach House Day Spa has the charm and luxury of an heirloom beach home on the sandy shores of lake Michigan. With hints of turquoise, bright white and distressed wood floors, the spa exudes that summer vacation glow from the moment you walk through the door. Inspired by life around the Great Lakes, flowing rivers, and endless miles of shores lining the tranquil Michigan waters, Beach House Day Spa is an everyday escape from the stress of modern life where guests can be transported to a world with only three rules: relax, unwind and enjoy!
LNEonline.com
March2018
25
spa Spa Of The Month
SIGNATURE TREATMENT At a spa where guests come for a complete escape from their everyday lives, it comes as no surprise that Beach House Day Spa’s most popular service is their Therapeutic Massage (60 minutes, $100). Spa owner Lauren MacVean attributes this massage’s popularity over their other body services to its “strong manipulation of the muscles, particularly the problem areas.” The technique used by Beach House Day Spa’s knowledgeable and highly trained therapists is “reminiscent of the pulling of the surf.” Somewhere in between the spa’s Swedish and deep tissue treatments, the Therapeutic Massage is customized to every client’s areas of concern. Guests are not only guided into a state of physical relaxation, but they are also cleansed of any negative energy and worries that might be lingering in their consciousness. MacVean explains that this service “replaces tension and stress with feelings of energy and peace” for an all-around transcendent experience.
TRAINING Spa owner Lauren MacVean holds her staff to a high standard. The attention to detail in the spa’s conception and design can only be accompanied by a superior team of service providers. All members of Beach House Day Spa’s staff must have at least five years of experience in their specialty field before being considered for a position. MacVean keeps up with the ever-changing spa world by holding quarterly staff meetings. During these meet ups, the entire staff “talks about goals reached, projections, new protocols, and applauds excellent service and behavior” she says. Meetings are typically held at the end of the workday on a Saturday and last around one and a half hours. MacVean keeps things light and fun by providing cute finger food and drinks for her cherished staff!
26
March2018
LNEonline.com
MARKETING Members of the Beach House Day Spa’s staff are constantly improving their craft. Every three months, MacVean meets personally with each staff member to go over “client retention, sales goals and any questions or concerns.” Staff members are also privy to special contests, sales-based commissions, yearly bonuses, vacation time, birthday celebrations and holiday parties to show gratitude for their dedication to Beach House Day Spa’s mission. MacVean’s vision for her spa is a place where she can “give good people a positive environment to work where they can feel supported and grow in their talents.” By creating a welcoming atmosphere for her staff, MacVean sees that “with positive energy come loyal clients!”
Beach House Day Spa relies heavily on “social media, word of mouth and positive reviews” to keep their books full. Spa owner Lauren MacVean makes sure to personally invite clients back after every service to ensure repeat customers. She also offers a referral program to interest current clients and their friends. MacVean feels that keeping her website updated with “new exciting promotions and information including local charities supported by the spa” helps clients feel the energy of Beach House Day Spa, even through their screens. MacVean keeps their social media profiles current and allows for fun engagement with clients through these platforms.
spa Spa Of The Month
Launch: October 2013 Spa Owner: Lauren MacVean Amenities: six treatment rooms, one triple infrared sauna, three mani/pedi stations, a relaxation room and a central gathering area for parties. Spa Revenue Composition: 60 percent massage; 30 percent skin care; 10 percent nail services Client Ratio: 70 percent female, 30 percent male; 90 percent local, 10 percent non-local
Beach House Day Spa also hosts a yearly birthday party, which takes eight weeks to plan, according to MacVean. This grand celebration for the spa’s clients includes “catered food, a DJ, special promotions and a raffle.” They also sponsor themed holiday specials that are featured at the beginning of each month to spread awareness of their amazing treatments.
REVENUE & RETAIL Retail is an important sales driver for any spa. At Beach House Day Spa, Lauren MacVean carefully chooses retail lines based on “extensive research, client suggestions as well as packaging” to make the most marketable selections for her clientele. She goes on
to say that they “only carry products that are high quality and really work.” Beach House Day Spa takes pride in offering fair prices and extensive knowledge as to why a product is right for a particular client. A unique revenue driver at Beach House Day Spa is their Bespoke Beauty Bar. Spa owner Lauren MacVean says: “We are the only spa in Michigan offering custom blended makeup created by our celebrity makeup artist. Everything is natural and made of pure minerals. Each piece is hand made and poured in the perfect shade created for the individual.” MacVean aims to make every client feel like a part of the family, and attributes these customized services to her success.
Spa Director Spotlight: Becoming a nail tech while in high school and then getting her certification in Massage Therapy, Lauren MacVean has always had a passion for spa services. After years of working in a day spa, she decided it was time to improve the experience for both the clients and the employees. Lauren’s dream for Beach House Day Spa is to create a working environment that would give women like her an enjoyable place to work, a great wage, and the respect they deserve. This has been the driving force in attracting such a beautiful and loyal clientele!
Rundown Beach House Day Spa 34645 Woodward Ave. Birmingham, Michigan
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is
Beachhouse-dayspa.com
your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please
248-220-4485
connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
LNEonline.com
March2018
27
PHILADELPHIA, PA April 22 & 23, 2018 Pennsylvania Convention Center The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Retail Conference • Business Conference • Wellness Conference Mindfulness Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
SPONSORED BY
Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com USA: 305.443.2322 / FAX: 305.443.1664
30
March2018
LNEonline.com
Korean Body Scrubs Discover the eastern tradition of smooth skin exfoliation by Aurora Solis
Frequent spa-goers are always on the hunt for the next skinsmoothing obsession. Clients will travel far and wide to experience exotic, luxurious skin treatments that will give them that sought after glow. While rich, pampering treatments all over the globe drench skin with enviable hydration, some equally unique treatments prove just as effective and glowgetting. If you’re looking for a head-to-toe scrub down to offer your more adventurous clients, look no further than the Korean Body Scrub.
LNEonline.com
March2018
31
spa Korean Body Scrub
From East to West Dive deep into South Korean culture and you will discover the jimjilbang, or Korean bathhouse. Many locals pay a visit to their community bathhouse once a week to sauna, steam, soak and scrub their troubles away. Unlike the western spa tradition, the practice of visiting jimjilbang is woven into the cultural fabric of South Korea. More than a symbol of relaxation and indulgence, Korean spas are a staple in their regular health and hygiene routines. As part of the bathhouse experience, a Korean body scrub is a staple treatment to cleanse and purify the skin. The undeniably thorough skin smoothing of these invigorating scrubs has not gone unnoticed by American tourists, and spa therapist here in the U.S. are now offering Korean Body Scrubs on treatment menus around the country.
The Trouble With Traditional Scrubs Korean body scrubs differ from traditional American-style sugar or salt scrubs in that they begin with the ritual of steam, allowing the client to sauna in an herbal-infused steam room for at least 15 minutes prior to the scrub session. Soaking in warm water allows the client’s skin to soften for easier exfoliation during the treatment and increases the detoxifying and renewing effects of traditional Korean spa treatments. Studies have also suggested that steam and sauna help rid the body of heavy metals and xenobiotics. Many Korean-inspired spas in the U.S. feature a combination of whirlpools, hot saunas, steam rooms, and cold pools. In keeping with Korean tradition, saunas are often infused with mugwort. Mugwort is an herbal medicine that aids in the detoxification process to be later encouraged by the scrub. It has anti-inflammatory, antiaging and anti-acne benefits. 32
March2018
LNEonline.com
While everyone loves the feeling of a thick exfoliating salt or sugar scrub, many formulations can actually be drying on the skin. Both salt and sugar can be harsh and abrasive on the skin. Korean body scrubs are so popular because they are not only extremely effective at shedding dead skin, but they are also gentler than traditional sugar and salt scrubs. Sugar and salt particles often have jagged edges that create micro tears in the skin. These micro tears cause inflammation and leave the skin more vulnerable to infection and irritation.
More Than Just A Scrub Once the client has enjoyed the steam and sauna to soften their skin, the therapist escorts the client to the massage table to prepare for the scrub. The treatment is often performed in a wet-room with an available shower-bed or small shower for the client to use after the scrub portion. There is usually a drain
on the floor, as various exfoliating liquids and lotions are applied to aid in detoxification. The scrub is done on the client’s skin using a special towel or mitt that cleanses the skin of its layers of dead cells. Referred to as a “Korean Italy Towel,” this colorful, loofah-like mitt is the essential component of the scrub. Many traditional Korean body scrubs incorporate the use of milk for its lactic acid to aid in exfoliation, doubling the treatment as both a chemical and physical exfoliation. In a traditional scrub, the warm, exfoliating milk is poured generously over the client’s body and is massaged in with the scrub cloth for a dual-exfoliation treatment.
Head-to-Toe and Everything In Between The scrub should be done with rapid movements and medium to firm pressure to promote increased circulation and stimulate detoxification. Slightly
NEW
ESSENTIAL INFUSION DRY OIL
Intensely nourishes, replenishes and illuminates the skin
Helps protect the skin’s moisture barrier
Provides a sense of well-being
Exclusively in G.M. Collin spas. Visit www.gmcollin.com to locate a spa near you. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #115 on reader service card
spa Korean Body Scrub
Brighten & Rejuvenate
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card
with Plant Meristematic Cells Extract
34
pink and glowing skin is the telltale sign of fresh, rejuvenated skin cells breathing new life. Unlike traditional western body scrubs in which only the arms, legs, and back are exfoliated, the key to an authentic Korean body scrub is full body exfoliation. This means underarms, buttocks, stomach, and chest should be graced with the skin-renewing scrub towel. Total body coverage is vital to the complete detoxification and renewal of the client’s skin, which is central to the Korean body scrub experience. Clients should leave with completely rejuvenated skin, from head-to-toe and everywhere in between! The scrub generally begins with the client on his or her stomach. The back, back of the legs and arms, and feet are exfoliated using the scrub towel. The client then turns on to their back, draped with a towel. Once the front of the client is exfoliated, the client is asked to step into the shower to rinse away the dead skin. If a shower is not available, warm towels can be used to wipe away the excess dead skin. The trademarks of the Korean body scrub are the long, gray ropes of dead skin that shed as the exfoliation occurs. Clients describe this as both shocking and oh-so-satisfying when they catch a glimpse of all the dirt, grime and dead skin that are removed from their skin’s surface.
Renewed and Refreshed
Made in USA Dr. Jeff Skin Care Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683
March2018
Email: info@dr-jeff.com Web: www.dr-jeff.com
LNEonline.com
Once the client is completely exfoliated and cleansed, the newly softened skin is drenched in a nourishing oil or lotion. Korean body scrubs are a great first step in a body wrap or body masking treatment, as they allow the beneficial ingredients to work on fresh, new skin. Body scrubs can also be combined with massage during the moisturizing phase of the treatment. The client will be left tension-free with perfectly smooth skin.
Feeling Floral Le Mieux’s EXOTIC BLOSSOM Body Gel & Body Butter transport your clients to a garden of floral delights as they are pampered with this luxurious foaming body gel and sumptuous body butter. Blossoming notes of damask rose and helichrysum leave a captivating aroma for a calming, sensuous experience. The Body Gel features skin-loving green tea, aloe vera, and sage extracts. Body Butter caresses and renews dry, stressed skin. Cupuacu butter, rice bran oil, and chamomile flower extract leave skin silky, soft, and alluring.
888.327.8188 lemieuxcosmetics.com
Breastaking… Lady Burd’s newest Bust Firming Cream is ideal for contouring the bust for a sexy silhouette. Caffeine and Palmitoyl Carnitine work together to visibly firm the thin and delicate skin of the breast.
Bon Vital´® introduces a premium dual purpose creme that combines the features of an oil and lotion, making it extremely versatile and ideal for techniques and modalities ranging from high glide to deep tissue. Complete™ Massage Creme is formulated with a unique blend of ingredients to benefit you and your client. Hypoallergenic. Unscented. No Greasy Feel. Paraben Free. Easy Wash Out. Cruelty Free.
800.253.6466 bonvital.com
All-in-One and One Does it ALL!
Spongology’s Body Contouring Glove by Spongelle is formulated to help smooth and soften areas prone to cellulite. Infused with a skin softening sulfate free formula and extracts of coffee and sea kelp, this buffer will cleanse, tone and rejuvenate.
855.776.6433 Spongelle.com
EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS
Blended Benefits
SPANews
800.345.3448 Ladyburd.com
Visit LNEonline.com for more news LNEonline.com
March2018
35
INSPIRATION How did you get involved in the spa industry? My life long struggle with my skin inspired my career choice. I’ve had eczema ever since I can remember. I know firsthand how painful and emotionally debilitating it can be. It was only after my eczema landed me in the hospital with a severe MRSA infection that I set out to find a healing remedy. I was no longer going to be powerless against my skin problems. Months of experimenting in my free time led me to the realization that this was the career path I needed to take.
How did you develop the concept of your spa?
Behind
SpaDoor
The
with Kerry Benjamin, Founder of StackedSkincare Spa 36
March2018
LNEonline.com
I developed the methodology that I called “stacking” by combining, or stacking, different ways of gently exfoliating skin while using tools to drive active ingredients in serums down deeper for maximum efficacy. The exfoliation techniques I use are dermaplaning, SilkPeel, microdermabrasion and peels. I use microneedling and oxygen therapy to drive serums down deeper into the skin. By combining all these treatments into one session, I’ve been able to truly transform people’s skin.
LEADERSHIP ROLE How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? Exercise and red wine help a lot! I take at least one vacation a year to get out of the country, unplug and relax with my husband. My biggest stress relief comes from my daily walks with my puppy, Jack, an adorable black shitzu!
What takes most of your time every day? We have a global e-commerce company that is growing exponentially. My
days are spent managing and growing every aspect of this company, including product development, domestic and international distribution, factory, lab and warehouse management; and working with my team on marketing, creative, social, PR, sales and customer service.
TEAM BUILDING What is your hiring process? I’ve found the best hiring comes from referrals, either via my network or through someone who works for the company. The first step to hiring is to determine what role we need filled. Once we do that, we write a job description and then reach out to our networks as well as post the position online. Typically, someone from my team will narrow it down to three to five candidates, and then I interview those candidates and make the final decision.
How do you select the employees that are going to be working with you? What standards do you have for hiring a new employee? I hire people that are self-motivated, can work cross functionally, and are eager to learn and grow with our company. We are a small team spread out between, LA, Austin, Dallas, Vegas and NYC. We have weekly team calls and are regularly communicating throughout the day on messenger. I am a very hands-off manager and allow those who work here to thrive and flourish on their own and to create their dream job to grow with the company. Most importantly, they have to fit in to the culture of the organization. I believe everyone should love what they are doing and have fun doing it!
How do you evaluate employees? I am very lucky to have such an amazing team of highly skilled professionals who work independently and also
closely together cross functionally. We are all very committed to the company and share a common goal and vision. Everyone is unique and brings their unique talents. They all stand out individually.
How do you train members of your staff? We have resources in our online network to help new people get onboarded. I also request all new hires set up time to speak with each team member to get them up to speed, share their experiences working here, as well as learn how they will be working together.
MARKETING & PUBLICITY What have you found is most effective when it comes to marketing techniques and strategy? We only spend time and money marketing the StackedSkincare product line. We do this in a variety of ways simultaneously to maximize our exposure including: digital media, email marketing, influencer marketing, social media, blogs and PR. We’ve been featured in most major beauty publications and whenever we have a new product launch, we send them to the editors and influencers.
What can you tell us about your particular marketing strategies and techniques? Our marketing director and creative director are amazing at pulling together a comprehensive and creative strategy for our campaigns. We run evergreen and seasonal campaigns throughout the year. For product launches, we do a major campaign across the various media platforms as well as a big PR and influencer push. This is all coordinated and executed across the organization to ensure we optimize all aspects of our assets.
EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE How do you keep clients loyal and consistent? How do you assure their utmost relaxation and satisfaction in your spa? My clients are loyal and consistent because of the level of service I provide; and most importantly, because of the results they see. The StackedSkincare method truly does transform people’s skin, and I’ve been very successful at healing acne, lifting hyperpigmentation and reversing signs of aging.
What incentives do you offer to your clients to be sure they come back again? The incentives are the results, best customer service and a beautiful, private setting that you can’t get anywhere else. My clients can text me day or night, I’m always available to answer questions and I try my best to be very accommodating.
TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS What advice would you give someone looking to develop their own retail line? Know your point of dif ferentiation. What are your products intended to do, an d who are they for? Be innovative and don't procrasti nate! You can build it bit by bit. Remeber: it doesn't ha ve to be perfect, it has to be done!
LNEonline.com
March2018
37
Connecting
Estheticians
Around the World 38
March2018
LNEonline.com
Why joining an online community of estheticians strengthens your passion! by Sheri Flasch
Thousands of skin care professionals everyday are connecting and joining online professional communities. The advent of social media has changed the skin care game. While you might not be into hardcore extraction videos, if you are not a member of one of these groups, you are doing your clients, your business, and yourself a huge disservice. These new ways to learn, share, and save (money!) are the smart skin care professional’s best-kept secret.
CHANGING LANDSCAPE The professional esthetic marketing and networking landscape is going through some exciting and interactive changes! Estheticians get to have a more substantial and interactive role in how others learn about new esthetic products and facial protocols. This really helps estheticians make more informed decisions in their treatment rooms and puts more decisive buying power in their hands. A welcome and supportive change! Over the past few years, social media has dramatically changed the dynamics of professional product introduction in the spa industry. This is a positive and welcome change for both the esthetician and the esthetic companies. Communities of licensed estheticians can now gather on social media in closed, professional forums and share ideas, product recommendations and success stories 24/7.
LNEonline.com
March2018
39
business Connecting Estheticians Around the World
BRING ON THE BENEFITS In addition to the immediate access to their peers, these professional ONLY social media communities have many substantial benefits: • Product recommendations for specific skin conditions • Client photo uploads (with client consent of course) and advice for potential solutions • Sharing a success story or a new protocol • Emotional support (a great place to get professional frustration off your chest!) • Information about new product releases • Exclusive product giveaways directly from esthetic companies • New insight into how to market specific services • Complimentary marketing posts you can use for your practice • Negotiated exclusive offers for estheticians to purchase directly from top esthetic brands at discounted prices (so you can experience the products without significant risk or investment)
CONNECTING ESTHETICIANS The best of these social forums allow the esthetician direct and real-time contact with their peers as well as their favorite esthetic companies. Some of these online communities are proficient at delivering reliable information and insight. This allows estheticians and esthetic companies to connect on many levels and truly brings power back in the hands of the esthetician. For example, while everyone might not love the same products and feedback can range from “best product/facial ever” to “don’t waste your money on this,” the decision making process is made considerably more productive having honest, real time empirical data. The practicing esthetician can read what everyone says, ask questions, give input, clarify expectations 40
March2018
LNEonline.com
and make a business decision that is best for his or her practice. These emerging communities use multiple mediums including detailed posts, live videos, edited videos, interviews, interactive discussions, and photographs to educate and inform page members. Finding a group in which you are comfortable and that you enjoy is a wonderful way to feel connected to your fellow estheticians and make lifelong friends from all over the world who share a similar passion for esthetics. The best part: These platforms are accessible to any esthetician with a computer, smartphone or tablet and are easy to follow and interact on. While the most in-depth groups primarily operate on Facebook, many of these professional groups also have growing Instagram pages and YouTube channels to cater to your specific preference in social media.
EMPOWERING ESTHETICIANS The sense of community these groups provide helps to empower solo estheticians to expand their practices and grow professionally with the support of
Helping other estheticians is merely an extension of our natural skill set. others. Estheticians are in this field for many reasons and one the most common is that we genuinely feel the desire and find great happiness in helping others. As such, joining these communities and helping other estheticians is merely an extension of our natural skill set. Estheticians trust these groups' opinions and recommendations because they are based on the real-life experiences of their peers. And the huge growth and power from a large group of estheticians has not gone unnoticed by the large esthetic companies. Companies enjoy working with these platforms to have direct contact with their professional target market, thus allowing them to share new products, effective protocols and company
Probiotic Cooling Mask A pre and pro-biotic blend that helps strengthen the skin’s natural defenses and promotes radiance. Containing Polymnia Sonchifolia (Root) Juice, Turmeric Extract, and Lime Extract • Turmeric Root Extract - Soothes Stressed Skin • Lime Extract - Brightening and Skin Renewal • Polymnia Sonchifolia (Root) Juice, Lactobacillus Strengthens Skin’s Defenses
Root Juice
Turmeric Root Lime Extract
“Inspired by Nature, Realized by Science” LU C R È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ AE S THE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • www.lu cre ce. com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card
business Connecting Estheticians Around the World
news much faster than traditional channels of communication. Since members typically check these groups daily, it’s a fast, efficient and cost-effective way for companies to create thousands of brand impressions. Some of the larger groups on platforms such as Facebook have experienced professional esthetician page administrators who work full time on page content and spend countless hours creating a thriving social environment for other estheticians. They work to expose them to new brands, products and topics. It’s important to note that finding a page that focuses on education, information and that does not cater to or allow a company to influence their content is important. If a forum only discusses one or two brands (or is actually owned and/ or maintained by the brand itself), then they are better used as a resource for estheticians who already use those products rather than a place to find unbiased data. Estheticians are educated enough to separate helpful information from product hype, and having more information than less information is always helpful when making business decisions.
THINGS TO LOOK FOR IN AN ONLINE GROUP: • Groups run by experienced licensed professional estheticians • Group administrators who act as mentors with their experience & knowledge to help decipher appropriate page content • Groups that utilize additional social platforms to help you stay in the know based on your social media preferences (Facebook, YouTube, Instagram) • Groups that encourage page member feedback and stimulate communication on the page • Groups that have unbiased content (i.e. not run by a specific esthetic company) • Groups that provide E-newsletters
42
March2018
LNEonline.com
and complimentary marketing ideas/ templates to help other estheticians succeed. • Groups that avoid “ranting” and bickering with a focus on staying professional and supportive
SPREAD POSITIVITY Estheticians can rely on honest feedback from peers to help make buying/ business decisions. The more successful groups even have experienced and dedicated administrators that work fulltime to bring members innovative content, videos, images, products, product giveaways and exclusive promotions which allow members to experience and try products without large financial commitments. Members trust in these Page Mentors to research the new products and upload only quality information and offers to the page.
These supportive social communities have effectively filled a void for credible product/treatment information and evaluation as well as real time 24/7 networking. Social media communities are bridging the previous gaps and “connecting” everyone in a positive, professional and enjoyable way.
Sheri Flasch is the CEO/ Founder of The Esthetician Connection (“The EC”), an interactive social media forum on Facebook, Instagram, and other online channels. She is also a Licensed Master Esthetician, CIDESCO Diplomate, Industry Influencer, Marketing Innovator, and National Speaker. Find her at Esthetician Connection on Facebook and www.estheticianconnection.com
Celluma ELITE
Celluma PRO
Celluma LITE
See Celluma in action at the following shows: IECSC New York ICES Philadelphia SPSSCS New York IECSC Chicago
FDA-Cleared
Booth #845 Mar 4-6 Booth #609 Apr 22-23 Apr 25-27 Booth #6617 Apr 28-30
CE Certified
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #295 on reader service card
(714) 978-0080 • www.biophotas.com Inquiries for clinical use and resale packages call 714-978-0080
BioPhotas, Inc. | 1000 E Howell Ave, Unit A, Anaheim, CA 92805 info@biophotas.com | Fax: (714) 978-0085
44
March2018
LNEonline.com
May I Place You
On Hold? Why on-hold marketing increases your revenue and client retention by Mark Williamson
The telephone is still an important medium of communication for spa owners. From enquiring about the cost of a treatment to asking about on-site amenities, the traditional method of picking up the phone remains a significant way of getting information about a business. It is often the first point of contact between the organization and a prospective customer, offering up a valuable opportunity to foster a strong image of your company and leave a lasting positive impression in the mind of the caller. Yet if the call isn’t handled in a professional manner, it could have the opposite effect. For spa owners, brand image is pivotal to business success, so if callers are faced with an employee with an uninterested tone or unhelpful attitude, it will more than likely be off-putting. What’s more, research of 2,234 American consumers has discovered 59 percent won’t give repeat business to
an organization if their first phone call wasn’t up to their standards. Training staff in call handling bestpractice, such as how to answer the phone and deal with enquiries, ensures leads aren’t extinguished at the first hurdle, instead building a rapport with the customer.
A positive experience American businesses have been found to keep callers on hold for an average of 29.83 seconds before they reach their intended destination. Putting callers on hold is inevitable. Most spas will aim to deal with the call straight away, but there are times when information isn’t close by or the customer has to be transferred to another employee with specialist knowledge.
LNEonline.com
March2018
45
business May I Place You On Hold?
Although it is important to limit the amount of time callers spend on hold, the problem however lies with how the holding is executed. Repetitive beeps, poor music and even silence are just some of the most common techniques used by businesses to placate customers while on hold. However, these methods are unengaging and tedious, encouraging caller frustration from having to listen to monotonous sounds on repeat and leaving a lasting negative perception in the caller’s mind. As well, research by USA Business Telephone Today has found that 50 per cent of callers will hang up within 20 seconds if forced to wait in silence, so the business implications of using generic sounds are clear. In times where hold time is unavoidable, it is essential to provide a positive experience, which prevents them from getting bored and hanging up the phone. This is where on-hold marketing, a brand-congruent voice and music solution, can help.
Captivate your audience There is a mistaken belief that audio branding is the preserve of large, multinational organizations with the budget to create a sonic logo or catchy jingle. But this simply isn’t the case. Businesses of all sizes can use the power of sound to prompt brand recognition, boost sales and also improve the customer service offering. One way is by using an on-hold marketing solution via the telephone. In basic terms, on-hold marketing transforms the ‘dead’ air formed by putting callers on hold into an ideal chance to advertise to a captive audience. It works by taking a company’s existing brand image and values and outputting them as sound, complementing and strengthening the organization’s visual branding. Not only do customized messages help decrease caller hang-ups and reduce the perceived amount of time on hold, but they also speak to customers on a more relevant and personal level
46
March2018
LNEonline.com
too. A study discovered 65 percent of Americans feel more valued if they hear a customized voice and music message while on hold. The almost 30 seconds where callers are on hold provides spas with a perfect opportunity to upsell and crosssell their products and services to the listener. For example, a prospective customer may book a facial as an additional treatment after hearing about a special offer on the messages, increasing revenue for the spa. Brand image can also be strengthened using the messages. By promoting the relaxing and escapist nature of the service, it reinforces the spa’s identity as a leading place where people can unwind. Equally, the messages could explain the health benefits of treatments, helping to portray the professionalism and knowledgeability of staff. This also provides a sense of reassurance to callers that their well-being and image are in the safe hands of experts.
Influencing the subconscious Hearing can have a powerful effect on our subconscious, making it effective in grabbing attention and sparking brand recognition. On a personal level, sound can stir up strong feelings. For example, a song can remind the listener of a happy time in their life, maybe their wedding or a certain vacation with good memories. Yet it’s not just positive recollections that can resurface. If a certain song was playing during a negative event or unhappy period, it will forever be attached with that moment and could bring up unwanted memories in the listener’s mind. It is for this reason why using a piece of commercial music in your audio branding could be damaging to your business. Callers aren’t going to want to wait on the telephone listening to a song they would rather forget, instead it could prompt them to hang-up before they even reach their intended destination.
LASHES
GIVE
YOUR
CLIENTS
Retail Grande products in your salon or spa & make this year your most profitable yet. Pictured: our best-selling Outrageous 12 Piece Kit (free display, full size testers & marketing materials included) grandecosmetics.com | grandewholesale.com | 1.877.835.3010 |
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #286 on reader service card
& local distributors
business May I Place You On Hold? Similarly, inappropriate music or the wrong tone of voice can communicate an unwanted company image or brand values, both of which are difficult to shake. Instead, by working with an appropriate specialist, you can choose an audio brand unique to your business, complementing the existing branding to reinforce company ideals and constructing a positive first impression. The end result is customized voice and music that match the company’s core values and differentiates the spa business from its competition in a saturated market.
Make sweet music What kind of music track best represents your business? It truly all depends on what values you want to communicate to customers. Given the relaxing nature of their services, it is perhaps unsurprising that spas tend to use a combination of electronic and live instrumentation, such as smooth synths seamlessly blended with flowing piano lines. Customers also want to know they are receiving a treatment from a professional business, so spas often tend to stay away from noticeable, catchy melodic lines in their music, instead using a track with a more subtle, sophisticated feel.
The voice of your spa Spa owners want customers to recognize that their business can be trusted to look after a client’s well-being and have the knowledge and expertise to offer a first-class service. However, it is easy to feel overwhelmed when it comes to deciding the voice attributes that reflect this. Should it be masculine or feminine? Old or young? What kind of delivery style? In such cases, an audio branding specialist can explain the perceptions associated with each element and help choose the most suitable for your brand. As spas attract people of all ages, the large age bracket of the voice 48
March2018
LNEonline.com
can help appeal to a wide audience. However, if your business is marketed as a vibrant, lively place with invigorating treatments, a younger, more upbeat voice might be better. On the other hand, an older age profile would work well in a place wanting to hone in on its reliability and professionalism. Accents can also be used as part of your company voice. Spas often cater to a local demographic, so it may be worth using a regional accent to connect with a customer on an emotional level. The local accent provides a sense of reassurance to the listener and could be the difference in whether they choose your business or a competitor’s.
Regularly refresh Listening to a song on repeat can prompt boredom, if not irritation, in the listener. The same also goes for voice and music messages. If the exact same content is played on repeat, it will lose its potency and will eventually become background noise, rendering the messages meaningless. Spa owners should look to update their messages on a regular basis, not only helping to evade sound fatigue, but also to ensure content remains rel-
evant and still has the desired effect on the customer. Measuring the success of an onhold marketing campaign is also important. Asking customers for their feedback on the messaging is an effective way to gain valuable insight, as well as seeing if there has been an increase in sales of any of the promotions mentioned in the messages. Ignoring how your business sounds could prove damaging if it communicates a completely different brand image to what your business wants to portray. Given that customers feel more valued if they hear customized voice and music while on hold, it’s proof that audio forms a powerful element of a marketing mix and spa owners should give it some serious consideration.
Mark Williamson is the CEO at PHMG, the world’s leading audio branding consultancy. W ith more than 14 years’ experience of working in the industry, Williamson manages the global brand strategy of the company and advises businesses on how best to implement onhold marketing and design an audio brand.
Industry Talk
next because they know and trust the brand to bring them the best of the best.
With CEO
Alicia Grande What past positions have you worked in that you feel have prepared you for your role as leader of your company? I ran a radio show called the “Health Buzz” where I explored the latest and greatest products in the anti-aging industry. In the process, I met many knowledgeable chemists who were authorities in the beauty industry. Consequently, I learned a lot about product development in the process, which led me to create my own product line of problem-solving products that deliver visible results. What do you find most challenging, but rewarding about the beauty industry? The biggest challenge I have faced is finding truly innovative ingredients for my products in order to provide real solutions for women’s beauty
concerns. It would be simple to just reproduce a type of product that is already out there on the market, but my passion lies in bringing new & exciting beauty solutions to the table. What advice would you give to someone new to the industry? My advice would be to believe in your products. If you invest time, energy, and yourself into your company, success will follow. What adaptations have you made over the years to stay relevant in the industry? I have stayed relevant in the industry over the years by keeping up with all the hot trends, while still staying true to the products that got me where I am today. Our cult-following of women that already use our products are excited to try what we come out with
What is your approach to managing others? I like to manage my team the way I would want to be managed; as a part of a cohesive team. Finding a team that has the same passion for cosmetics can be tricky, but it’s completely necessary. I need to know I have a strong team behind me so that I can go out and do what I do best: find new and innovative products! Managing my company as a team helps give them the same inspiration and passion for Grande that I have. How do you maintain a work/life balance? I love to spend my free time with family and friends. I try to make time for traveling and for walking my dog Lance; getting exercise and being outside in nature helps keep me feeling refreshed & inspired.
Presented by
grandewholesale.com 877.835.3010 Info@grandecosmetics.com
LNEonline.com
March2018
49
A Beauty of a Break for Moms with Children in the Hospital Last month, IMAGE Skincare partnered with the Ronald McDonald House® New York* to give back to the families currently living at the Manhattan location. A day of pampering was on the menu for the mothers of children living there. The day of beauty included facials and hand massages, as one of the pillars of Image Skincare’s mission is to give back in a meaningful way to moms who have been focused on the truly essential task of taking care of their children in need of medical care and most definitely neglecting themselves.
1.800.796.SKIN (7546) Imageskincare.com
COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE
BusinessNews
For HOME Use, Too!
Giving Back to the Neediest The HydraFacial Company participated in this year’s Beauty Industry West (BIW) Holiday Bash in Los Angeles where they helped raise over $10,000 for Para Los Ninos, a charity dedicated to “closing the gap for children living in poverty.” HydraFacial donated a package of eight treatments for BIW’s “One of a Kind” raffle, which was widely received by the attendees. The winner, who is already a big fan of HydraFacial, was gifted with a Signature HydraFacial Private Party for her and seven close friends.
March2018
714.978.0080 celluma.com
800.603.4996 hydrafacial.com
The Best Will Lead the Rest! Bioelements is thrilled to announce the winter 2018 Students of the Year from esthetics schools across the United States. Educators from schools using Bioelements in the classroom choose exceptional individuals that go above and beyond to receive this unique honor. Each student is presented with a Student of the Year Certificate and Bioelements Professional Esthetics Discovery Set to support their promising careers in esthetics.
Visit LNEonline.com for more news 50
The newest addition to the award winning Celluma Series of light therapy devices is the Celluma HOME LED with the professional strength and efficacy of the Celluma ELITE, PRO and LITE. The two-mode Celluma HOME focuses on treating wrinkles and pain. Competitively priced, portable and hands-free, this model is ideal for both clinical and home use. The Celluma HOME has a large treatment area measuring 14” x 6” and is ideally suited for use anywhere on the body.
800.433.6650 bioelements.com LNEonline.com
Korean Skin Care Guide
Experience the trend with lightweight hydration, innovative textures and advanced formulations for crystal clear skin!
LNEonline.com
March2018
51
Korean Skin Care
Philosophy How high quality skin care became part of Korean culture
52
March2018
LNEonline.com
By Craig A. Kraffert, MD
Generally speaking, Koreans (especially women, but men as well) view the care of skin as something to savor and enjoy. When it comes to daily skin care regimens, the ‘sense of urgency’ and the compulsion to hurry and finish are typically absent. Rather than compress and hurry, Koreans prefer to stretch out the skin care process. More is better, and proactive attention to skin’s health is encouraged from an early age. This helps explain why Koreans have sought to develop products that are pleasant, effective, and layer-able. It also helps explain why products with potential harshness (AHAs, BHAs, ‘raw’ retinol, rougher mechanical exfoliants, etc.) have never been in favor. Today, Koreans are very enthusiastic about skin care and are proud of the unique contributions Korea is making towards moving skin care art and science forward. If one were to summarize the key benefits to be obtained from skin care regimens from the Korean perspective, those words would be: Clarity, Brilliance, and Beauty. This philosophy focuses on a quality experience that allows for optimized cleanliness with epidermal brightness and overall transcutaneous lucidity.
LNEonline.com
March2018
53
Korean Skin Care Guide
A Skin Care Legacy Koreans have among the longest documented historical civilized legacies in the world. The peninsular geography with ample precipitation provided for a relatively stable socio-political environment that allowed artistic endeavors to flourish. Skin care interest has been documented since the earliest Korean writings, and the Dongui Bogam has an entire section (the Tangaekpyeon) on preparation and use of herbal ingredients, including for skin concerns. When we think of Korea as a manufacturing environment for skin care, it seems as though it must be vast. Similarly, we have the impression that the sheer number and variety of formulators and product laboratories in the USA must be immense. However, this isn't actually how it works. In America, formulators and formulae move around. Product experts move from one company to another over the course of their careers. Contract manufacturers produce a large percentage of skin care products made in both countries and they are a natural conduit for similarity in both ingredients and methods. So,
54
March2018
LNEonline.com
even though both Korea and America make an extensive array of products, many similarities tend to be present between products manufactured in the same country due to subtle tendencies towards an insular formulation culture. The difference is that there is very little cross-pollination between Korea and America (not to mention Europe) due to geography, nationality and, especially, language. This has created two somewhat distinct ways of creating skin care products – the Korean way and the American way.
Ingredients and Methods To develop skin care products the ‘Korean’ way, top formulators rely on methods derived from a working familiarity with both the legacy Korean knowledge base, as well as modern technology. This is true with all aspects of product development. Market pressures also guide their mission, as only products that are effective, layerable, and fun (or pleasant, depending on your sense of terminology) will survive in the competitive Korean market.
Novel skin care ingredients and ingredient research/refinement are something for which Koreans have a great reputation. The state of the art Korean skin care technologies (and there are several) really do lead the world. These include unique ways of processing (and fermenting) plant extracts; utilizing nanotechnologies such as nano-sulfur and nano encapsulation of both EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor – a.k.a. human oligopeptide 1) and retinol; as well as unique ways of formulating with silicone based emollients. A very different way of deploying emollients is actually a much noticed but little understood key component to the uniqueness and desirability of Korean products. The best formulae absorb completely and quickly, leaving no residue. Other less-sophisticated formulations (even in Korea) are sometimes referred to as ‘cloud creams’ or ‘cloudy creams’ as they leave an unnecessary and comparatively undesirable residue on the skin.
The Regimen Concept The multistep Korean regimen has been born out of an obsession with the Korean concept of skin care as a privileged activity of indulgence, enjoyment, and self-respect. While there are very few people, even in Korea, utilizing a 17-step regimen, the steps can and do add up. Note below how one can get a regimen upwards of ten steps. The traditional Korean skin care regimen and its American counterpart are presented below. These two regimen legacies are finding more and more common ground in the daily lives of real Americans.
Korean Regimen Concept: 1. Cleanse 2. Exfoliate 3. Tone 4-5. Hydrate (one to three steps) 6-8. Moisturize • Face • Eyes • Lips
Korean Skin Care Guide 9. Protect (a.m. – SPF) 10. Perfect (typically a.m. – BB cream) 11. Rejuvenate (p.m. – e.g. Sleep mask) 12+. Cosmetics
American Regimen Concept 1. Cleanse 2. Moisturize (perhaps containing AHA or low level retinol) 3. SPF (a.m.) 4. Cosmetics
Why the sudden global interest in Korean skin care? Starting in the second half of the 90s, the Korean Wave swept across Asia and, more recently, is sweeping across both America and Europe. This began with drama productions. Korean actresses and their legendary beauty are revered across Asia. The Korean penchant for excellence in plastic surgery is also well known. Combine these things with the Koreans’ natural and acquired talents in product formulation and the historical obsession with skin care and the story becomes clearer. Additionally, the Korean government has actively participated in nurturing the skin care product manufacturing industry through partnerships with academia to advance R & D efforts. Though the
interest in Korean skin care appears sudden, it has actually been building for some time. Part of the recent buzz may be that, like food, there is typically some degree of product adventuring even for brand loyalists and, as the new and different (and often better) kid on the block, Korean products have finally been ‘noticed.’
Ahead of the Game The worldwide skin care market is intensely competitive and well capitalized. Research and design continues around the world, and new ways of doing things can emerge in unlikely places. Also, intense competition brings the issues of reverse product engineering and even, potentially, trade secret theft (which has happened within the Korean skin care industry). Still, top Korean researchers, product formulators and manufacturers are ahead of the worldwide competition today. Beyond the top of the market in Korea, there is much going on in the Korean skin care world that has little to do with invention, improvement or innovation. Today, we are seeing expanded Korean production of lowerend market products relative to the higher-end. These lower-end products
do not always share the ingredient quality and formula excellence described in reports on Korea’s newfound skin care fame. The net effect of these production changes over time on the general perception of Korean skin care products by global consumers remains to be seen. Today, Korean skin care products are riding high in America, Asia, and, to a lesser extent, Europe. Like everything else, however, there is great variability across the global Korean skin care offering in terms of ingredient quality, formulation elegance, efficacy, and even packaging quality. It remains to be seen how the Korean skin care wave will play out in America, but there will likely be both winners and losers. Additionally, we may witness a bifurcation of Korean offerings into truly high-end offerings (not necessarily or strictly based on price) and everything else. In any event, to the extent that Korean brands deliver skin care products with a satisfying application experience that create a visual result reminiscent of naturally moist skin, consumers will react favorably. Korean products that achieve their primary functions (e.g. brightening, antiaging, rejuvenating, hydrating) while providing a very light and quickly absorptive application experience will continue to be well received in America and beyond.
Craig A. Kraffert, MD is a broadly educated (Revelle College at UCSD) and welltrained biochemist (with past employment at Scripps Institute), physician and surgeon (UCLA) and dermatologist (top rated Univ. of Miami) with a very large multi-location practice. Married to a lovely Korean woman for 20+ years, Dr. Kraffert is the founder and developer of Dermstore.com – one of the biggest/ best skin care eCommerce sites and the biggest dermatologist founded site. Dr. Kraffert has been working collaboratively with Korean skin care product formulators/ inventors for over thirteen years.
LNEonline.com
March2018
55
56
March2018
LNEonline.com
Get Your Glow ON Korean skin care trends to wow your clients By Janel Luu Bored with traditional skin care? Tired of hearing the same catchwords and promises? Then all you need to do is take a closer look at the skin care that Korea has to offer, and you'll be surprised (and occasionally entertained) by the trends that are taking the beauty industry by storm. In fact, the breakneck speed of innovation is driving the growth of South Korea's buzzing beauty industry, estimated at $13 billion in just the past year. Whether it's about a new twist in a facial protocol, an innovative product, or an unusual ingredient, there's always something to learn from K-Beauty.
LNEonline.com
March2018
57
Korean Skin Care Guide
NOT JUST A PRODUCT, IT'S AN EXPERIENCE K-Beauty blurs the lines in creating innovative experiences and surprises. Ten-step regimens that include double-cleansing are not the only path to achieving "glass skin," known for its clear, luminous, dewy, and seemingly poreless quality. With every new trend, it's almost as if skin care goes hybrid as textures combine and transform. Masks become foam, oil morphs into cream, exfoliants double as moisturizers. Here are a couple of interesting skin care methods and unusual products that are not only effective, but are also an unforgettable experience in themselves. Fascia-Firming Massage For those who prefer more of a handson approach to skin rejuvenation before age prevention products are applied, it's essential to know what lies underneath the skin in order to sculpt it—and that's the beauty of fasciafirming techniques. This type of facial resculpting zeros in on the superficial fascia, which is the connective tissue laying underneath the skin, right next to the layers of muscle. During massage along Meridian lines, wrinkles and creases in the fascia are smoothed out by rolling and pressing along the jawline and neck. The look of drooping eyelids, dull skin, and puffiness can be minimized by using the forefinger and thumb to gently pinch and roll along the eye sockets and eyebrows. As an added bonus, the experience of being touched releases oxytocin for a sense of overall well-being. The basic fascia-firming protocol starts at the scalp ("the governing vessel"), continues at the décolleté and the ten primary Meridian points on the face, and then sweeps down the side of the neck to move out toxins. Basic steps for the protocol are as follows:
Step 1: Press scalp along Meridian pathways to release energy blockage. Step 2: Massage scalp oil into skin along Meridian pathways on the scalp, 58
March2018
LNEonline.com
making sure that none drips into the eyes. Step 3: Press and release Meridian jade tool in an upward and outward direction along Meridian pathways on the scalp. Step 4: Cleanse the facial area and pat dry. Step 5: Apply facial oil or facial balm to the face, neck, and décolleté. Step 6: Starting from each of the primary ten Meridian points on the face, use Meridian jade tool to perform slight strokes upward and outward. Step 7: Use the forefinger and thumb to perform gentle pinching, rolling movements along the eye sockets and eyebrows. Step 8: Glide tool down the side of the neck to sweep down toxins and clear energy flow. Step 9: Cover the face, neck, and décolleté with a warm towel. Remove. Step 10: Apply a sheet mask. Meridian massage may be performed over the mask. Remove after fifteen minutes. Step 11: Apply products that contain peptides, stem cells, growth factors, and antioxidants, including toner, serum, moisturizer, and sun protection.
The Seven Skin Method Also known as the “Seven Toner Method,” the "Seven Skin Method" is a regimen where seven layers of toner are layered on in succession. In this way, the skin is drenched with moisture, without the heaviness or greasiness that may come with layering traditional oils and creams. Providing the optimal balance of hydration and skin's natural oils, it's the fast track to the Korean ideal, "chok chok," referring to a plump, luminous, dewy glow to the complexion. This is a great addition to any deep cleansing facial, as it is intensely hydrating without being occlusive. It’s great for clients with oily or clog-prone skin. With this method, however, it's important to avoid toners with alcohol, which will dry out the skin and potentially cause irritation if layered more than once. Bubble masks Due to this obsession with Korean beauty, masks come in an infinite variety of choices, ranging from splashed-on liquid to painted-on mud. One popular version is the bubble mask, with activated bubbles that introduce micronized ingredients into the skin. The sensation is unique—like tiny champagne bub-
Korean Skin Care Guide
bles tickling skin as they oxygenate skin cells. Bubble masks provide a sensorial quality that is exciting for clients, who rarely have experienced anything like it. It’s a great surprise during a facial: clients feel a playful tickling, an unusual effervescent "crackle, pop" sensation. Bubble masks are a fun and effective way to hydrate and oxygenate skin, and even provide a brightening effect.
INNOVATIVE (AND SURPRISING) K-BEAUTY INGREDIENTS No one would blame you if you thought that ginseng, jellyfish, bamboo, bird nests, and pig collagen were the ingredients of a traditional Asian family stew recipe dating back hundreds of years. But these ingredients have also become trending on facial back bars in addition to the pantry shelves. Here are some unusual ingredients that have also been trending across the globe. Silk worm cocoons You probably wouldn't associate worms with beauty, but silkworm cocoons are another K-Beauty novelty. Silkworms create their cocoon to protect themselves as they metamorphose into a future butterfly. For skin care use, the cocoons are dried and cleaned. Before using, they should be immersed in hot water until they become a soft, soggy "sock" to put on the finger. This can then be used as a silky-soft way to exfoliate your client’s skin and get rid of flaky patches. Sericin is a protein found in the silk threads making up cocoons, which can be extracted as a powder and used in skin care oils or creams. Sericin is said to help improve the skin barrier by keeping skin hydrated and sealing in moisture.
latest "must-have" face creams. Since starfish can regenerate their own lost or injured limbs, can they hold the secret to skin regeneration as well? Starfish extract is loaded with collagen, calcium, and skin-loving vitamins, which are all skin care ingredients that help plump skin, smooth out wrinkles, and rejuvenate the complexion. As this ingredient trend spreads, it's not likely that the ocean's supply will be depleted. Scientists have indicated that the starfish used in beauty creams are bi-products of environmental groups that reduce the overgrowth of the starfish population in order to prevent the destruction of coral reefs and other essential fish habitats.
most sustainable ingredients in skin care you'll ever find!
SPREAD THE GLOW Stay on top of K-Beauty trends by pepping up your own skin care regimen, transforming your facial protocols, and passing along the information to clients. In this way, you'll be at the forefront of the global skin care industry by continuing the spread of this amazing "K-phenomenon." You won't just find ways to benefit skin... in the process, you'll add a lot more fun, excitement, and surprises to your practice! And who doesn't love a good surprise?
Janel Luu has over 30 years of
Bamboo Not just food for pandas, bamboo has been used for centuries in Korea for helping heal skin. Not surprising, since bamboo regenerates itself incredibly fast, skyrocketing upward at an average rate of three to five feet a year, and some varieties actually grow over a foot a day. Used in skincare, bamboo is known as an excellent hydrator, drawing moisture to the skin to plump it up. And no worries about depleting the bamboo forests of the world-due to its rapid growth, it's one of the
experience as an international educator, skin care researcher and developer, international beauty columnist and influential consulting developer for major cosmetic companies. In 1999, she founded Bielle Cosmetics, a research and development company, and in 2004 she launched Le Mieux Cosmetics, an anti-aging professional skin care brand. Luu's innate love of formulating and expertise in anti-aging cellular technology has inspired her to teach more than 20,000 professionals and physicians in the skin care industry.
Starfish These amazing creatures are usually sought after by tide pool sight-seers, but now starfish are receiving a closer look for their skin care benefits in the LNEonline.com
March2018
59
60
March2018
LNEonline.com
Sheet Masks, Please! Why these single-use masks are changing the game by Noreen Young
Sheet masks started on the beauty and skin care scene in South Korea around the year 2000. This country is known for its advanced skin care. Featured in specialty stores, makeup and skin care shops and other shopping channels, these lightweight masks took off fast. Sheet masks are super popular in other parts of Asia now, too! These skin “superheroes� are a one of a kind sensation. Clients cannot get enough of them and they keep asking for more! U.S. companies have taken notice and now brands in the USA are making sheet masks for skin care professionals to use during facial treatments.
LNEonline.com
March2018
61
Korean Skin Care Guide
What are they made of? Sheet masks are typically made of nonwoven fibers, cotton, hydrogel, and bio-cellulose. These materials are lightweight and easy to apply. Hydrogel and bio-cellulose are more weighty than cotton and fiber, but the feeling is comforting and cooling on the skin. Companies are actively creating new and innovative sheet mask materials to improve application and penetration of active ingredients. These masks are face-shaped sheets soaked in skin loving nutrients and serums. They come individually wrapped and packaged, and are used once and thrown away. They are one size fits all, easy to use, reasonably priced and so convenient. Most sheet masks come in one single sheet, however many masks have a top and bottom portion. These are great for creating a more customized fit. However, they are more prone to slippage, so make sure the client remains laying on the treatment bed for the duration of the mask.
How do they work? A sheet mask is fully soaked with highly concentrated serums, which vary in ingredients. They are ever so refreshing and cool to the skin. The sheet prevents the mask from evaporating and extends the period for the ingredients to penetrate deeply into the skin. You do not need to rinse it off once removed. Rather than rinsing them off, leave the nutrient soaked sheet mask ingredients on the face for all of their beauty to soak in. Sheet masks can be great for those with highly sensitive or dry skin that experience dryness from excessive rinsing and water usage. Clients that are sensitive to hard water will also benefit from no-rinse sheet masks.
Popular Sheet Mask Ingredients The range of ingredients found in sheet masks suits any skin type or condition.
62
March2018
LNEonline.com
There is something for every client! Hyaluronic acid, vitamins, pearl powder, aloe, vitamin C, seaweed extracts, green tea, peptides, sweet almond seed extract, detoxifying charcoal, snail mucin and more can be found in these single-use masks.
Why Choose A Sheet Maks? This really depends on the esthetician’s professional application recommendation and what the client on your facial bed needs. If you are looking for superior penetration, immediate hydration, and glowing and gorgeous skin, these masks are for you. Like most Korean skin care trends, sheet masks are the ideal choice for clog-prone skin that still needs intense hydration. We all have that client who dries out their acneic skin with harsh
home care products. This client may not be able to tolerate thick, occlusive, cream masks meant to rehydrate their skin. This is the perfect opportunity to use a sheet mask, with its light and weightless hydrating essence. Sheet masks are cool to the touch, so they are great for reducing redness and inflammation after extractions. Store your sheet masks in the refrigerator for extra chill!
How To Apply The sheet mask can be applied during the mask phase of your facial protocol. It can also be applied at the very end of the facial after all serums and creams, but before sun protection. Sheet masks are extremely versatile and can be incorporated into any facial protocol. Start by applying at the top of the client’s face, from the forehead and pat
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #351 on reader service card
Korean Skin Care Guide the mask down gently with your fingers as you go down the face, lining up the mask around the eyes, nose, lips, and chin. Be sure to avoid the eye area, as some sheet masks are heavily saturated with product and can drip into the client’s eyes, causing discomfort. Allow the mask between 15 to 20 minutes to work its magic best. Be sure to check manufacturer instructions for in-depth information about how long to leave the mask on your client.
Incorporate Sheet Maks In Your Spa • Busy day and running late? Give a complimentary sheet mask treatment to your clients before a service. For example, before massage, waxing, or before a makeup lesson and more. Use your imagination. ALWAYS keep your clients happy, NOT waiting! • The bride, mother of the bride, mother-in-law, and or her bridal party will love a special treat! Apply this beauty bonus to their complexion before doing their makeup.
64
March2018
LNEonline.com
Sheet Masks from Head to Toe!
Hair: Hydrates and helps with split ends, adds body and shine. Neck: Firms and hydrates for younger looking neck and décolleté. Chin: Double chin masks that lift and tighten the skin. Eye area: Tired eyes, computer eyes, sensitive eyes and crow’s feet. Lips: Great for smoker’s lips, sunbathers, dry lips and more. Hands: Makes the hands look younger and softer. Fingernails/cuticles: Great for the nail bed itself, ragged edge cuticles and dry cracking skin. Feet: The feet and the soles need attention too! These bootie type masks offer a hydrating and skin softening treat in a flash during a deep cleansing facial. Décolleté and Breasts: Yes, they even have masks for the neck and the breast/ chest too! Educate the client on what sheet masks are, what they do and why you are using
them. You and your magical hands are the stars! There is nothing like a PRO. The sheet mask is just another beautiful part of a skin care treatment and protocol. No sheet mask will take the place of a service with YOU! So go ahead, go to the masquerade and have a ball discovering the world of the sheet masks. Explore beyond your spa door. There are so many new things to discover and add to your treatment room and spa! Noreen Young is a professional makeup artist, skin therapist, beauty blogger and author. Noreen is always whipping up fun and natural skin recipes for complexion perfection in her beauty kitchen. She is a writer for Les Nouvelles Esthetiques, Dermascope, Skin Deep, Consumer Reports and more. She is heard on podcasts, on radio talk shows and a regular TV personality as a Beauty and Lifestyle reporter for TV. She has created a book and three CD’s for the beauty professional.
Lucky Lashes, Brimming Brows, the Fairest Skin and Richest Hair to tie up in a black velvet band
Call Rocasuba Inc to learn about our FREE displays with qualifying orders in the month of March! orders@rocasuba.com rapidlash.com
877.760.6677 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #224 on reader service card
Fresh Faced for Spring! Refresh your facials with these hydrating facial mists...
2
3
4
1
5
6
7
1. Thalgo, Reviving Marine Mist • thalgousa.com 2. Kerstin Florian, Rehydrating Neroli Water • kerstinflorian.com 3. Eminence Organic Skin Care, Red Currant Mattifying Mist • eminenceorganics.com 4. SONAGE, Hydrating Mist • sonage.com 5. Nature Pure Labs, Cucumber Mint Moisturizing Mist • naturepureshop.com 6. Martina Gebhardt, Ginseng Tonic • martina-gebhardt-naturkosmetik.de 7. Diamond Way Ayurveda, Rinchen Precious Water Tridoshic Hydrating Mist • diamondwayayurveda.com 66
March2018
LNEonline.com
8
9
10
11
13
12
14
Relax, Tone and Hydrate Your Client's Skin! 8. Eve Taylor Professional, Rose Hydrolat • eve-taylor.com 9. Jurlique, Rosewater Balancing Mist • jurlique.com 10. Linda Meredith, Hydrating Mist • lindameredith.com 11. Hale Cosmeceuticals, DMAE 5% Neutralizer • halecosmeceuticals.com 12. Laurel Whole Plant Organics, Facial Elixir Normal to Mature Skin • laurelskin.com 13. Cosmetic Solutions, Men's Line After Shave Cooling Tonic • naturalskincare.com 14. forager, Flower Water - Natural Organic Hydrating Mist • foragerbotanicals.com LNEonline.com
March2018
67
4 2
3
1
5
6
1. PurErb, Bulgarian Rose Soothing Toner • purerbskincare.com 2. SkinScript, Cucumber Hydration Toner • skinscriptrx.com 3. Clinicians Complex, Antioxidant Facial Mist with Rose Water • clinicianscomplex.com 4.GinaMarie, Herbal Hydrating Mist • ginamarieproducts.com 5. Bio-Therapeutic, Aquafuse® Hydrate • bio-therapeutic.com 6. Vivoderm Natural Skincare, Facial Toner • vivoderm.com
68
March2018
LNEonline.com
8
9
10
7
11
12
13
14
Oh So Soothing! Cooling cucumber and rose water calm and nourish! 7. G.M. Collin, Marine Collagen Revitalizing Mist • gmcollin.com 8. BelleCote, Marine Collagen Anti-Aging Toner • bellecoteparis.com 9. m'lis, TONE Skin Spray • mlis.com 10. Lira Clinical, Hydrating Mineral Mist with PSC • liraclinical.com 11. Cosmedix, Mystic Hydrating Treatment • cosmedix.com 12. CIRCADIA by Dr. Pugliese, Licorice and Bearberry Brightening Mist • circadia.com 13. Dermelect Cosmeceuticals, Resurgent Stem Cell Firming Activator • dermelect.com 14. Lady Burd, Perfect Finish Purifying Spray • ladyburd.com LNEonline.com
March2018
69
DALLAS, TX
May 6 & 7, 2018 Arlington Convention Center The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Retail Conference • Business Conference • Wellness Conference Mindfulness Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
SPONSORED BY
Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com USA: 305.443.2322 / FAX: 305.443.1664
Natural
Preservatives in Skin Care
72
March2018
LNEonline.com
Understand what natural preservatives are in your skin care products By Rachael Pontillo
The demand for clean, green, natural, and organic skin care is on the rise. With the increased access to information about the different types of chemicals used in skin care and personal care products across all markets, clients come to the spa with more ingredient know-how than ever before. Sometimes this is a good thing—more informed consumers who take their skin and health responsibility into their own hands tend to be more compliant, loyal customers. However, having access to more information doesn’t always mean that consumers—or professionals for that matter—are absorbing accurate information from valid sources. The topic of preservatives and natural preservation is a prime example.
LNEonline.com
March2018
73
organic and wellness Natural Preservatives in Skin Care
Preservative Free Problems Expanding on the “paraben-free” trend, the “preservative-free” trend has become a dominant trend. Online bloggers and educators in formulation have quickly countered this trend with the fact that products containing any aqueous substance and plant matter (ex. distilled water, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, hydrosols, herbal infusions, etc.) must contain a broad-spectrum preservative in order to be safe. However, the fact remains that natural preservation is not a simple, cut and dry matter. Early in the shift, the available natural preservatives had to be used in high concentrations, which caused skin and eye irritation. While the green chemistry industry has been working tirelessly to develop new preservatives that inhibit the growth of gram positive and gram negative bacteria, mold, and yeast; there still isn’t a 100 percent natural solution that can be applied across all types of formulae that guarantee a safe and stable product with a shelf life of longer than one year. 74
March2018
LNEonline.com
Often, more than one antimicrobial ingredient must be used to protect the product (and the consumer) for this short shelf life. This is no different from synthetic chemical formulation— preservative cocktails are still used in synthetic products. What is different is that with natural preservation (and formulation for that matter), finding the right preservation solution for every water-containing product within a range takes extensive (and expensive) testing. Not only is it more labor intensive to find the right blend, but also the raw ingredients themselves are more expensive; while synthetic chemicals are cheaper and more predictable.
Most natural preservatives are not 100% natural While many of these ingredients are plant-derived, by the time they become formulation-ready, they’ve gone through many changes in a laboratory, and sometimes, synthetic substances
are added. So while they may be approved by organizations like NATRUE and ECOCERT for use in certified organic products, the fact is that they’re often no longer completely natural ingredients. Some preservatives that are globally accepted for use in natural and organic products are, in fact, synthetic.
Here are some popular natural preservatives: Honeysuckle Blend The blend of the extracts from the flowers of the species Lonicera Caprifolium and Lonicera Japonica offers very good broad-spectrum preservation for many formulations. This blend can be used at a lower percentage than some other choices, and it’s known for good efficacy and a 12 month shelf-life. One concern is that honeysuckle extract is a phytoestrogen. Some have written that it mimics the estrogenic effects of parabens on the body; therefore it should be avoided. You’ll need to decide whether or not it falls into
organic and wellness Natural Preservatives in Skin Care
your personal and professional ethos to use products that contain it or not. There are documented (and continuously studied) health risks associated with these, and many choose to avoid them. It is true that there are naturally occurring “parabens” in plants, and it’s certainly true that certain plants and foods contain natural substances that act as precursors to estrogen, testosterone, progesterone, and other hormones in the body. These phytoestrogens are those found in a natural, traditionally prepared honeysuckle extract. These are not the same as xenoestrogens and do not have the same effects on the body, as the body recognizes them and knows how to absorb and utilize them; which is not the case with xenoestrogens like synthetic isolated parabens. Leucidal Liquid This has become one of the most commonly used natural preservatives. It comes from the peptides obtained from the fermentation process of red radish root, and has excellent antimicrobial properties as well as the ability to increase skin moisture. It’s been said that Leucidal on its own may not provide adequate broad-spectrum control, as it’s not as effective against mold. Many natural formulators choose to combine it with other natural antimicrobials such as white aspen or elderberry extract. However, an upgraded version is now available called Leucidal Complete, which has the addition of AmtiCide Coconut, for added protection against mold. One concern is that it is necessary to use Leucidal at a higher concentration than some of the other preservatives (typically four percent), which might be a skin or eye irritant for some people. It typically lends a 12-month shelf life. Geogard ECT This is a blend of Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, and Sorbic Acid, and is manufactured in the United States by Lonza. It is a rather popular
solution for broad-spectrum preservation for many types of products; however, it has also shown some issues with mold for some products, especially those containing clay. For this reason, potassium sorbate (though not effective as a standalone preservative itself) is often added for additional action against mold. One benefit is that it can be used at a fairly low percentage, is very user-friendly since it can be incorporated in more than one phase of an emulsion, and is less likely to cause sensitization than some of the other options. It’s also available under the trade name Preservative Eco in the UK and Europe. This typically lends a 12-month shelf life. Gluconolactone SB This is a broad spectrum preservative, and is a blend of glucono-delta-lactone
(from the microbial fermentation of corn) and sodium benzoate (a GRAS food-grade preservative). It’s watersoluble and complies with ECOCERT and other organic certifying agencies. It may be listed under the trade name Geogard® Ultra (also by Lonza), and under the trade name NeoDefend. A 12-month shelf-life is possible with this preservative. Sensiva® PA-20 This is a nature identical version of phenoxyethanol, and is a synergistic blend of phenyl ethyl alcohol (aka phenethyl alcohol) and ethylhexylglycerine that is globally accepted for use in natural and organic products. Phenyl ethyl alcohol is a byproduct of the extraction process used in perfumery, specifically to create rose absolute. It is a commonly used fixative in LNEonline.com
March2018
75
organic and wellness Natural Preservatives in Skin Care and vegetable juices, and botanical infusions are all examples). The reason for this is that under current legislation, the United States Food and Drug Administration and Federal Trade Commission do not require it. This may change if either of the bipartisan bills in circulation are signed into law. As experts in the skin care industry, it’s paramount that estheticians stay abreast of ingredient knowledge, in addition to regulatory changes, as nowadays, consumers need professional guidance more than ever.
fragrances, and has a floral fragrance itself, which some people may find irritating. Ethylhexylglycerine is a common “companion” preservative similar to sodium benzoate, sodium levulinate, or potassium sorbate in that it’s not effective on its own for broad-spectrum preservation; however, when added to others, it can contribute to an effective blend. While it is effective in very low concentrations, it comes with some of the same documented concerns as its fully synthetic counterpart, phenoxyethanol, mainly skin and eye irritation. New natural preservatives and antimicrobials enter the market constantly, as this movement continues its rapid growth. It’s also important to note that not every product label will list preservatives if the preservative occurs in less than one percent total concentration, or if the preservative is added to one of the other ingredients prior to formulation (botanical extracts, fruit
2.
Create
Your
Skincare.
Level
Preservatives, Emulsifiers, and Gelling Agents {class worksheet}. Retrieved from www.createyourskincare.com
Rachael Pontillo is the bestselling author of the book Love Your Skin, Love Yourself, and co-author of The Sauce Code. She’s an AADP and IAHC Board Certified International Health Coach, licensed aesthetician; and natural skincare
References:
formulator and educator. She’s the president and co-founder of the Nutritional
1. “What’s Driving The Billion-Dollar
Aesthetics™ Alliance, the creator of the
Natural
Fast
popular skincare and healthy lifestyle blog,
Company, Fast Company Inc, 26 May
Holistically Haute™, as well as the much-
2017,
www.fastcompany.com/3068710/
loved online course, Create Your Skincare.
whats-driving-the-billion-dollar-natural-
She’s an avid herbalist, self-professed skin-
beauty-movement.
care ingredient junkie, and lifelong learner.
Beauty
Movement?”
PERMANENT MAKEUP PROFESSIONAL BECOME A
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #167 on reader service card
Join the countless successful Beau graduates in an exciting, rewarding, lucrative career!
76
TRAIN at our WORLD RENOWNED PERMANENT MAKEUP INSTITUTE AAM & SPCP Certified Instructors • • • •
FUNDAMENTALS & ADVANCED CLASSES Microblading Hairstroke Brows Eyeliner/Lash Enhancements Gloss & Glo Lips
• • • •
3-D Areola & Scar Camouflage Scalp Micropigmentation Microneedling VISIT Customized Classes
US at The International Congress
of Esthetics and Spa Show in Philadelphia
APRIL 22-23 • BOOTH #633
HOME OF FACE INKS PIGMENTS: The fastest growing pigment line in the U.S. • Streamlined for simplicity • Excellent color retention
856-727-1411 • beauinstitute.com Located in Mount Laurel, New Jersey
March2018
LNEonline.com
3:
Exquisite Emulsions and Gels. In: Natural
Your Bikini Line is Our Care!â„¢ For Ingrown Hairs, Razor Bumps, and Inflammation
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #330 on reader service card
1 (800) 961-0041
Prenatal Massage 78
March2018
LNEonline.com
How this service nurtures your client and strengthens relationships by Alma Bocanegra
Prenatal massage is a massage modality that is mainly geared toward the changing bodies of pregnant women. It is very similar to a regular massage with certain modifications to make sure there are no risks to the woman receiving the massage as well as to the baby. This massage will relax muscles, sooth sore areas, help improve circulation and movement, as well as make the mother feel good, relaxed and less anxious. This is a specialized niche in massage which can help the therapist to connect with a new clientele. The therapist can also help the client, pregnant women, connect with their changing bodies and their growing baby. A prenatal massage can make a woman more aware of what is happening in her body, and open her up to listening to her body and to what her body may need during this time of change.
LNEonline.com
March2018
79
organic and wellness Prenatal Massage
A Specialty Massage
Benefits of Prenatal Massage
Special Equipment Needed
Prenatal massage is a modified form of massage geared toward the needs of pregnant women and their changing bodies. As a woman carries her baby, it changes her center of gravity and places a lot of stress on the body - mainly hips/pelvic area, lower back, abdominal muscles, as well as shoulders, neck, and the added weight on legs and feet. The body is also opening up and expanding to accommodate the baby, which tends to loosen ligaments and can make the pelvic joints less stable and can change her posture. A trained prenatal massage therapist is educated on how to know where a pregnant woman may have sore and swollen areas and may be able to provide some relief. The therapist will also know which are the best techniques or modalities to use, as well as specific areas to avoid that can be unsafe for the mother, as well as the baby.
The research that has been done on the therapeutic benefits of prenatal massage has demonstrated that it is very effective for women during pregnancy. Women who received massage therapy reported decreased depression and anxiety, as well as lessening of leg and back pain versus women who did not receive massage. Cortisol levels decreased and, in turn, excessive fetal activity decreased. The rate of premature birth was also lower in the massage group.
From the beginning of a pregnancy, it may be uncomfortable for a woman to lie face-down because of tender and swollen breasts. Of course, after the belly has started to grow, a woman cannot lie face-down on a traditional massage table. Using pillows, wedges or full-length body pillows, a woman can lie on her side to receive her massage. There are special tables with cut outs and supported areas for the belly and breasts. There are also special pads with hollowed out areas and pillows to accommodate the belly and breasts on top of a massage table or on the floor, so they can lie face-down. Though, sometimes lying facedown on the special massage table or pad can stress and cause pain to the lower back, so it is recommended that the expectant mother let the therapist know that they cannot lie face down, that way the therapist can use pillows for a side lying massage and make the expectant mother more comfortable. It is also good to note that it is not a good idea for a pregnant woman to lie flat on her back, especially once they are past 18 – 21 weeks pregnant, due to the weight of the baby putting
Techniques Used • Swedish – slower, longer strokes are generally used for a relaxation massage, and mainly for the legs, as no deep work should be done on the legs. This is the main type of massage used for pregnant women. • Deep tissue - to relax tight, tense and sore muscles, this technique is mainly used on specific areas and usually on the upper body, neck, shoulders, back and lower back. • Shiatsu - can be done on certain areas of the body by pressure and tapping on acupressure points to stimulate the body’s natural energy. Legs are usually avoided due to the possibility of clots. • Myofascial Release – a gentle connective tissue release to eliminate pain and restore motion. • Lymph drain – a light, pumping massage to assist with removing any edema (swelling) of the body, legs and feet. A very relaxing and soothing modality.
80
March2018
LNEonline.com
Benefits of massage: • Relaxed muscles and less soreness throughout the body • Improved mood and lower stress levels • Reduced depression and anxiety • Lowered risk of premature birth and low birth weight in infants from mothers with depression • Reduction in edema in the legs (after foot massage, or lymph massage) A prenatal massage can relax the expectant mother so that she can better deal with all the changes going on in her body and in her life with the coming of a baby.
organic and wellness Prenatal Massage
too much pressure on the inferior vena cava; the vein that returns blood from the lower body to the heart.
Oils and Lotions There are a variety of oils that can be used for a prenatal massage. Almond, apricot, peach, calendula, wheat germ, jojoba are just a few of the oils that are great for prenatal massage. Because pesticides and herbicides tend to concentrate in the oil of most farmed plants, it is best to use organic oils. This will protect both mother and baby from these chemicals. Aromatherapy oil can also be used for pregnancy massage. There are many that will disagree, but depending on the oils used (therapists should be trained in aromatherapy) and the sensitivity of their pregnant clients to scents, it can be very helpful for anxiety, depression or pain. Most aromatherapy oils are mixed with a base oil. It is always best to use organic and natural oils or lotions versus anything with synthetic chemicals. There are also oils that help with stretchmarks; coco butter, almond oil, as well as some essential oils are usually recommended for massaging the belly as it grows to try and avoid stretchmarks. Being aware of allergies to nut or essential oils is extremely important.
Qualification and Certification As always, choosing a massage therapist for your business can be tricky. Where did they go to school? Did their training include what I need? How much experience do they have? Choosing a prenatal therapist is very similar, but you need to make sure that they have had sufficient training in prenatal massage and are certified in prenatal massage. Medical recommendations for pregnancy can and do change, and are relevant in that the therapist needs to know what the client is experiencing, as well as the treatments or tests done prenatally. Learning about the physiology of pregnant women and what they experience
throughout their pregnancy, the special adaptive positioning for their massage and the pressure points contraindicated during pregnancy are just a few of the things that are covered in detail in advanced training courses for this special population. There are many schools that offer certification in prenatal massage.
Contraindications
• Allergic reaction to massage or essential oils. • Tapotement on legs, due to possible clots. • Any nausea just prior to massage. • ROM movements for legs or hips due to separation of pubis symphysis. If there are concerns about whether it would be safe to have a prenatal massage, talk to a healthcare provider.
Having a prenatal massage may be risky in some situations and may require a physician’s written release, such as if: • Diabetic • Cardiac Disorders- heart disease • Chronic Hypertension • Previous Problem in Pregnancy • Mothers under 20 or over 35 • Asthmatic • Drug addictions or exposure to drugs • Blood clot or a bone fracture. Some other contraindications can be: • Skin injuries or conditions that could be aggravated by rubbing: burns, open wounds, skin infections.
Alma Bocanegra is the national technical manager for Pino Natural Spa Therapy. Her professional background is a blend of health and wellness training as an EMT, nursing assistant, massage therapist, massage therapy instructor and continuing education provider. Bocanegra has contributed to Japanese travel magazines, as well as a Japanese health show called Sole of the Foot.
LNEonline.com
March2018
81
ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS
Organic & WellnessNews
Honoring the Past by Protecting Our Future Ilike is celebrating its 60th anniversary in 2018 by rolling out 100% recyclable, airless packaging. The new packaging reflects the brands commitment to contribute to the sustainability movement. For the award-winning, global skincare brand, 2018 will be a year of innovation as it celebrates its Diamond Anniversary. Advancing the brand’s ‘farmto-skin’ commitment, Ilike’s entire line of bottles, moisturizers, serums, cleansers, massage creams and their Yogurt Power Peel & Botanical AHA Peel will be offered in new airless pump bottles.
888.290.6238 ilikeorganics.com
Diverse Device A multifunctional machine with Lymphatic drainage massage at the touch of a button while simultaneously soothing tired, sore muscles and reenergizing after a workout, this system from Bella Schneider is the ideal adjunctive treatment addon service. The simulations of a fourhanded massage increase circulation, smooth cellulite and revitalize the skin to achieve supreme relaxation. This dynamic device is also amazing for pain relief and swelling.
888.200.3977 bellaschneiderbeauty.com
Standing the Test of Time Ginamarie Products have provided quality, effective, holistic skin care and clean cosmetics for 40 years. All products are water-based, pH balanced, cruelty free, antioxidant rich and made with naturally derived ingredients. Educating women on caring for their skin through effective, simple, clean skin care and cosmetics is at the heart of the company.
800.452.2116 ginamarieproducts.com
Positively Pore(less) Olive + M's Cleansing Oil is a natural blend of olive, rosehip, red raspberry seed, castor seed, lavender and bergamot oil that will rid pores of dirt and bacteria without drying the skin. Plant based oils actually dissolve the dirty gunk while nourishing the skin with a natural blend of antioxidants, vitamins, omegas and amino acids. It smells as good as it sounds... afterwards skin feels incredibly soft, nourished and pores will be “in”visibly clearer.
Visit LNEonline.com for more news 82
March2018
oliveandm.com hello@oliveandm.com LNEonline.com
LNEonline.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card
March2018
83
SERVICE & RETAIL What is the best part about working with makeup services in the spa industry?
Make Beauty Your Business
with Rhea McCarter, Adore Makeup Boutique + Salon, Austin, Texas 84
March2018
LNEonline.com
The best part about working with makeup is helping each client find their perfect style, colors and self. Makeup has the ability to enhance each client’s natural beauty and I find such joy in this! Our clients leave Adore feeling confident inside and out.
When did you decide to implement makeup services in your spa menu? As a professional makeup artist and owner, I always knew makeup would be at the forefront of our services. It is wonderful to have the option of touch-ups and a great new lip after a new look.
What approaches did you take to implement these services? We researched different makeup companies to carry in the salon (for retail) and decided on three different companies. Each one provides a different, unique look; great quality for a reasonable price. Having the right retail is instrumental in providing makeup services. We also set up a makeup bar and menu.
What is the most difficult part about offering makeup services in your facility? The most difficult part is knowing how much retail to stock on a daily basis. When a client loves their look, we want to provide anything they need at home. But, I love everything about it! Enhancing our client’s beauty is so empowering and wonderful. We are helping them long-term, which is amazing.
Which of your makeup services has the most success and why? Our Makeup Bar is the most popular and profitable. It’s an easy service to book (full face $50, lashes $15 and airbrush foundation $25) and fun! It is for all occasions.
MAKEUP AREA Please describe your makeup area. It is bright, open and easy to use. Every chair and station is movable depending on the light during the day and the amount of people in the makeup room. We are able to have up to four artists and four clients at any given time; depending on the occasion.
TEAM MEMBERS How do you select your employees/makeup artists? We select our contract makeup artists by looking at their resume, references, website/Instagram. An in-house interview and working interview are completed. We also require one trial booking to “see how it goes” and gather feedback from the client.
What specific qualities do you look for in a member of your staff? We look for a talented, people-person who loves what they do. They need
to be punctual, reliable and professional as well. We love artists who see makeup as an art and can understand the diagram of each client’s face, and color theory.
How do you keep members of your staff incentivized? We offer competitive pay and commission on all retail sales. We keep them booked with our amazing clientele; and provide a fun, drama-free environment.
MARKETING How do you promote your makeup services? We promote on social media and through our website. We get a lot of work through referrals as well. Instagram is currently the most popular social media for booking makeup appointments. A picture truly says 1,000 words! We use Instagram and its ability to help us not only promote our services, but keep in touch with our clientele.
INSIDER TIPS What trends are you currently seeing in the industry? “Instagram look” which is more of theatre makeup. Changing the face with contour and highlight. Also, full but natural brows.
How do you perform consultations?
Do you have rituals or methods of creating positive energy for your spa? We have an essential oil diffuser turned on in the morning to start the day. And, our candles are also essential oil based and we keep them burning throughout the day. Music also makes all of the difference! If it is a makeup party, we put on Top Hits. During a lesson or bridal appointment, we will choose a jazz or a fun style such as Amy Winehouse or pop such as Katy Perry.
What does your business do that makes it UNIQUE from the competition? We truly customize the makeup look for each client. And, we teach them that look which in turn empowers them through each and every day. It is a longterm benefit. We also only use clean, “good for your skin” makeup that lasts all day & feels light-weight instead of like a “mask.”
What advice would you pass along to other spa owners or those just starting to offer these specific services in their spa? When offering makeup services, it’s very important to research your clientele and find out their makeup style before deciding on a retail line and employees. For example, if your clientele are working women, you want a retail line that is quick, easy to use and high-quality.
We schedule 15-20 minutes for our consultations. It really is the most important part of the appointment. This is the time to really get to know your client and their style. We take cues from their accessories, even the way their hair is styled. We consider ourselves the “investigators” and by the end of the consult, we have a game plan and are excited to paint their face!
LNEonline.com
March2018
85
Lash and Brow
Tinting
86
March2018
LNEonline.com
Rediscover the power of tinting for a naturally profitable add-on service! by Jaclyn Peresetsky
The obsession with brows and eyelashes is extremely prevalent in our current culture. It may be because when we watch movies, study red carpet events, or see someone with full brows and lashes, it’s easy to automatically have brow and lash envy. Thick, beautiful brows and dark, lush lashes are mesmerizing. Because of this trend in our culture, spas need to have a variety of lash and brow services to meet the demands of their clients who yearn for perfect brows and lashes. For over a decade, spas have had the ability to dye lashes and brows, which we know as “tinting.� So where did this great service get lost in the sea of other lash and brow services? Maybe we should consider getting back to the basics. Tinting has widely been a great and inexpensive solution for clients who want defined brows and lashes. With all the focus on lash and brow extensions, we sometimes forget about these great basic services. Tinting services are great feature services or add on services. As an esthetician, I find clients love the tinting services in addition to their facial. Not only are they leaving with glowing skin, they also leave with defined lashes and brows. These services are also great for clients who are swimmers, athletes, or those who live an active and busy lifestyle.
LNEonline.com
March2018
87
image Lash and Brow Tinting
Eyelash Tint Eyelash tinting temporarily dyes the lashes, which can create the look of mascara and also redefine the eyes, since many clients have blonde roots or tips, lighter eyelash color, or sparse lashes. The tinted lashes are smudge proof and you wake up with defined lashes. The darkened lashes will last three to five weeks. There are different types of eyelash tinting ingredients, but mainly eyelash tint is a vegetable oil based dye. The tinting process takes about 10-15 minutes. Here is the eyelash tinting stepby-step process with a few key tips: Discuss with the client what tint color they would prefer. Black or blue black are the most popular colors. Once color is determined, make sure the lashes are clean and makeup free, then place a protective cream or petroleum based product around the delicate eye area up to the lash line. Special protective wear or paper pads are placed under the eye to protect from staining of the under eye area or reaching too close to the eye. Have the client open their eyes while adjusting the protective paper, then close their eyes to apply the tint. Mix the tint developer and tint in a small cup then apply to lashes with a small tint brush. The key is to focus on starting at the lash line, then brush the tint to the lash tips. The tint will soak through the top lashes and tint the bottom lashes as well, which I find is a much safer application then attempting to have the client have his or her eyes open. The magnifying light may induce tearing and you want to avoid any unsafe application or getting tint in the eye. Leave the tint on for the recommended developer time. Always stay with the client the entire time of processing in case they experience any
88
March2018
LNEonline.com
discomfort or panic with their eyes closed. I always do a hand and arm massage during this process, as it relaxes him or her. Prepare to remove the tint. This can be a bit tricky, as you need to be very careful in the removing process not to get any in the client’s eyes. Always have saline solution nearby to rinse the eyes out if necessary. Using a disposable mascara wand, gently dry brush the majority of the tint out from the lashes and encourage the client to keep their eyes closed. Then use folded, dry gauze (2x2) to continue to wipe the tint out of the lashes. Finally, use dampened folded gauze (2x2) to complete the removal. Rinse the eyes while still closed, starting at the corner to ensure the entire tint that adhered to the bottom lash is removed. Ask the client to open his or her eyes, then check for any residual tint or discomfort. Use the supplier’s tint remover to remove any tint that stained the skin. Voila! Bring out the mirror to showcase the client’s new darkened lashes!
Brow Tinting The benefits of brow tinting are multiple, and it is one of the best services a client can do for his or her brows. It saves clients endless time spent in the mirror trying to draw on or define their brows; let alone the amount of money they spend on brow pencils or gels. Eyebrow tinting also helps give the client’s brows a fuller and more youthful appearance. I find my more mature clients love this service, as it hides those silver brow hairs that we can get as early as age 30. The brow tinting service should be done every two to three weeks, as clients use more detergents, surfactants, exfoliants, and bleaches around the eyebrow area. The tinting ingredients are the same as the lash tint and the process works much the same. Here is a step-by-step detail of the process with some key tips: Consult with your client about what shade they desire for their brows. If you notice they are anxious, always go lighter, as sometimes it will be easier
image Lash and Brow Tinting
for them to adjust. Every tint line is different, so make sure you practice on friends and family members to learn the tint shades, and how you can blend colors to get the desired shade prior to servicing clients. Once the brow is tinted, it is not easy to lift or fade the color, so be sure you are making the right choice before proceeding.
tinting and choosing the right shade. Overtime, you will perfect your technique and results. Practice makes perfect!
Jaclyn Peresetsky is not only the owner of Skin Perfect Spas in Ohio and Florida, but she is also a noted color expert, makeup artist, master esthetician, author and speaker. Her multiple books, cosmetic and skin care lines, and training courses allow other beauty pros to learn and add more services combining art and science to become leading beauty experts.
Apply protective cream or petroleum around the eyebrow in the desired brow shape to protect the skin around from staining. Mix the developer and chosen tint color in a small cup with a tint brush. Apply tint in the direction of the hair growth, patting down any silvers or white hairs with extra tint. Sometimes the white hairs will be too coarse to absorb the tint. A helpful option is to apply the tint for the recommended processing time; remove tint then go back through and redo the process only reapplying to the silver or white hairs. The initial tinting process helps soften the hair so it is more absorbent the second time.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #185 on reader service card
Remove tint with a dry, folded gauze (2x2) then use dampened gauze to remove any residual tint. Saturate gauze or Q tips in the supplier’s tint remover and rub the skin where the tint stained the skin or is in any unwanted area. It is very common for tint to grab in any dry areas. Avoid rubbing tint remover on the skin behind the hair, as you don’t want to lift any tint from the freshly tinted hair. I let my clients know that their skin may slightly stain where you tinted the hair, but it will naturally wash away or exfoliate off with just a few times of cleansing their face. Follow the tinting process with any brow shaping services, then let your client see their beautifully defined brows! Overall, tinting can change your client’s life! It is not an expensive service to offer; however, there is an art to
LNEonline.com
March2018
89
Striking A matte hue of citrus-lime brightens the eye
90
March2018
LNEonline.com
So
Spring On the runway, bold strokes and patterns of color make a statement. Here, Taylor exaggerates the look mixing color from her custom palette.
Photographed by: James Fraser
LNEonline.com
March2018
91
image So Spring
Florals including Crocus, a go to color this season
92
March2018
LNEonline.com
image So Spring
Tomato red a fresh pick for the lip and cheek- use as a glaze, tint or pure pigment
LNEonline.com
March2018
93
image So Spring
Brighten sun kissed shades of yellow illuminate the face
94
March2018
LNEonline.com
image So Spring
Pamela Taylor is an internationally recognized authority of editorial print and fashion makeup. Known for her Hydration Technique, she is a creator and innovator of current makeup
Oh So Blue blue can be added as shadow, liner or
trends and techniques. Based in New
applied alongside
York, Taylor is a cosmetics industry
Neutrals - experiment!
consultant, who boasts an impressive celebrity clientele. 95
Travel WorthY Accessory Silicone Facial Cleansing Pads by Qosmedix, are available in two different shapes – teardrop and oval – and feature textured ridges to aid in gently cleansing and exfoliating during skin care routines. Both styles are reusable and perfect for travel.
631.242.3270 qosmedix.com
Lips to Love & Protect
MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS
Image News
The next generation of lip care with sun protection, made by Infinity Sun, Avance Balme is a blend of the finest certified organic ingredients, including Organic Beeswax, Organic Vitamin E, Organic Essential Oils, Organic Rosemary Extract and Organic Calendula to soothe and heal chapped lips, keeping the lips moist, soft, and supple. Containing SPF15, with four delicious flavors to choose from: Citrus, Coconut, Spearmint & Vanilla Bean!
With the goal of offering Green Beauty products as high fashion, Civilized Cosmetics has made the grade with elegant looking products and reasonable prices. Matte Liquid Lipsticks in Suede colors, the first prestige, non-toxic, vegan, matte liquid lipstick on the market are handmade in the U.S. with both an appreciation for the environment and glamorous end results.
Support@civilizedcosmetics.com civilizedcosmetics.com
PRETTY IN A SNAP!
With the launch of their Spring 2018 collection, Pretty in a Snap, Jane Iredale took to bold hues for eye-accentuating color that pairs well with easy, always-flattering neutral lips. Comprised of long-lasting liners, double-duty lippies, and a Snap Happy Makeup Kit that answers all your photo-ready needs in a pinch. Available April 2018.
800.817.5665 janeiredale.com
Visit LNEonline.com for more news 96
March2018
323.782.1049 infinitysun.com
Faithful to the Environment, Fearless on the Lips
LNEonline.com
June 2-4, 2018
with spa business forum
Education Days June 2-4 Exhibit Floor Open June 3-4
The beauty industry’s most important show delivering the education you need to succeed
TM
Register by April 21 to SAVE $15 Off Day of Show Price Orlando/Orange County Convention Center • Orlando, Florida #PremiereDAYSPA For show passes or information on all Premiere events premiereshows.com • 800-335-7469 Beauty Industry Professionals & Students Only
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #194 on reader service card
Reader Service No.
Page Number
100.............Altair Instruments.................................................altairinstruments.com.................................................. 243 76...............Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics...............beauinstitute.com........................................................ 167 10...............Bella Schneider Beauty........................................bellaschneiderbeauty.com.......................................... 180 6,7..............Bio-Therapeutic....................................................bio-therapeutic.com.................................................... 139 89...............Calvet Cosmetics LLC..........................................silcskin.com................................................................ 185 63...............Celle Cle Skincare................................................CelleCleSkincare.com................................................. 351 43...............Celluma................................................................... biophotas.com............................................................... 295 11...............Dp Derm...............................................................dpderm.com................................................................ 170 34...............Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc...................................dr-jeff.com................................................................... 248 2,3..............Eminence Organic Skin Care................................eminenceorganics.com............................................... 157 99...............Equipro USA.........................................................equipro-bty.com.......................................................... 242 33...............G.M. Collin Skin Care...........................................gmcollin.com............................................................... 115 47...............Grandelash MD.....................................................grandelashmd.com..................................................... 286 16...............Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................halecosmeceuticals.com............................................. 133 4,5..............The HydraFacial Company...................................hydrafacial.com........................................................... 201 77...............Industry Cosmetics...............................................gomyskin.com............................................................. 330 28, 29.........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia............philadelphia.skincareshows.com 70, 71.........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas............dallas.skincareshows.com 9.................Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics.....ladyburd.com.............................................................. 119 15...............Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics.................................biellecosmetics.com................................................... 294 17...............LightStim International.........................................lightstim.com............................................................... 164 41...............Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research..............lucrece.com................................................................. 263 97...............Premiere Shows Inc..............................................premiereshows.com.................................................... 194 65.............. Rapidlash/Rocasuba..............................................rapidlash.com................................................................ 224 83...............Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................rejuvilab.com............................................................... 149 22, 23.........Satin Smooth.......................................................... satinsmooth.com........................................................... 304
*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
98
March2018
LNEonline.com
For peace of mind...
Proudly made in The USA and CANADA For your nearest distributor or for a brochure, call this toll-free number 1-877-324-2226 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242 on reader service card
Introducing DTX the DiamondTome速 Experience App for iPad速
The DTX - DiamondTome Experience is a fun, new interactive App. Clients can learn what DiamondTome Exfoliation can do for their skin. In just minutes, clients will be able to virtually treat their skin conditions using one of our virtual wands. This is your opportunity to make those results - their reality! #upyourskingame with DiamondTome and download the DTX App on your iPad thru the App Store today. iPad速 and App Store速 are registered trademarks of Apple Inc.
| diamondtome.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243 on reader service card