LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals March 2020
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FROM THE
EDITOR
Acne. Most of our clients either have suffered from this stubborn condition in the past, or are currently dealing with it today. They often feel frustrated and defeated because they don’t understand why they continue to break out. As estheticians, we have the ability to not only treat the visible condition of their skin, but also to help calm their anxiety and raise their self-esteem when it comes to their skin. As an esthetician myself, I have found the best place to start when treating acne is to take the time to figure out why your client is breaking out. Is it hormonal? Are they not cleansing properly? Are they actually reacting to their at-home products? Is it bacterial, systemic or their diet?
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Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com 4
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March volume 35 number 3
contents 4
8
38
Classifying Acne
44
Become A Master Extractor
50
Acne Photoshoot
22
Spa of the Month
58
Wellness At Home
28
Spa News
64
Organic & Wellness News
o&w
37 Acne Guide
58 Wellness At Home
22 Spa of the Month 30
No Show, No Go
66
What is Clean Beauty?
34
Business News
70
Image News
36
#esty2esty
30 No Show, No Go
image
business
From the Editor Advertiser Index
8 Skin Cell Chat
spa
skin
19 Skin News
guide
Skin Cell Chat
14 Deep Dive Pore Cleansing
74
66 What is Clean Beauty?
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Editorial Assistant Samantha Garcia samantha@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Elizabeth Canler elizabeth@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Aurora Solis Cristina Beecham Daniel Clary
Dr. Craig Wenborg Samantha Garcia Sherrie Tennessee
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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Skin Cell Chat
How skin cells communicate with each other by Daniel Clary
In human biology, one of the most fascinating evolutionary traits we’ve developed is cell signaling or, put another way, the ability your cells have to effectively communicate with one another. In fact, in all aspects of human existence, we have put all our time, energy, and money into figuring out ways we can better communicate with our friends, family, and colleagues across the globe. While technology dominates the medium in which humans communicate with the rest of the world, the conversation happening between your cells is mediated by biological chemicals known as cytokines. This ubiquitous class of chemicals, that also includes growth factors and chemokines, are known collectively as “protein messenger molecules” that act as the language of your cells, and it’s what all your cells (except red blood cells and corneocytes) use to literally communicate with each other, effectively coordinating all biological activity. These biological signals are necessary for life itself, and they play a significant role in keeping our body and skin healthy.
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skin Skin Cell Chat
As we age, we get a natural, and gradual, decline in cell-to-cell signaling that leads to cellular senescence, or the loss of cell functionality, but a variety of other factors can expedite the decline of this homeostatic cellular communication norm. From environmental aggressors and medication, to diet and UV radiation, these triggers can contribute to cellular damage, which ultimately perpetuates the inability for your cells to behave and communicate in a normal way. While this can happen throughout the body, as skin care professionals it is vital that you gain a better understanding of how this can impact your skin, and its state of health. Now that we have established that your cells talk to one another, and the language they use to accomplish this are the growth factors and cytokines, let us break down what these remarkable proteins actually are. While the two terms are often used interchangeably, cytokines and growth factors are, categorically, different. Cytokines, a neutral term used for these collective signaling molecules, have their primary role in immunological surveillance as well as being heavily involved in the inflammatory response. Growth Factors, a type of Cytokine, are usually responsible for cellular growth, proliferation, differentiation, and healing responses within tissue. The cells in your body produce hundreds of these biological signals, with each maintaining its own unique genetic programming, or “message.” The way in which these molecules work is rather simple, but highly complex at the intercellular level. When a cell releases one of these proteins, it travels to nearby cells to hunt for their appropriate receptors to attach to. Think of the protein as a key, and the receptor as a lock. Your cells are covered in an abundance of these receptors (which are also proteins), that are engineered to fit a specific growth factor/cytokine. Once the messenger molecule (key) meets its respective receptor (lock), 12
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they match up. Then, in a complex cascade of intercellular events, secondary messages are sent to the heart of the cell (nucleus) causing a change in genetic expression. That cell is now ready to “carry out the orders” that the growth factor/cytokine has provided it. The cell will now produce more of that same protein or coordinate a specific biological response. This process repeats over and over again, and this is what we call cell-to-cell signaling, or cross talk. This cross talk is highly efficient when we are young, which is why we heal so well in our youth. As we get older, that decline in cellular communication leads to slower healing, in all tissue including skin, which will ultimately lead to the hallmark signs of an aging face. An abundance of peer reviewed literature exists that documents the regenerative esthetic benefits of topically applied growth factors and cytokines, however, the caveat here is that in order to maximize this technology's ability to regenerate, heal, and reverse aging, you must utilize these proteins in the right way, and choose them from the right source.
Growth Factors and Cytokines for topical usage come from predominantly two sources – human derived cells, and recombinant technology. Human cells can be harvested from donors and then grown under laboratory culture conditions to get them to release their pre-determined genetic payload of these proteins. Alternatively, recombinant technology can be used where human DNA is used to “hijack” a bacteria or yeast cell, and those non-human cells will then produce a single, specific protein that is molecularly and biologically equivalent to its human derived counterpart. In fact, his is how insulin, a protein, is mostly created today. As I mentioned above, the body naturally produces hundreds of these molecules. Some growth factors and cytokines you may already be familiar with, such as Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF), Interleukin-10 (IL-10), and Transforming Growth Factor-beta 3 (TGFb-3). Of utmost importance is the understanding that these molecules do not get produced, nor do they exist in isolation. Your cells will communicate with a symphony of these proteins, not just one. So, when using topical growth
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factors, it is always best to use them in a physiological balance, and never in isolation (for the most part). Think of the EGF craze, and all the EGF based products out there. While EGF is a phenomenal regenerative protein for epidermal health and wound healing, when used on its own it can overexpress EGF receptors and cause the hyperproliferation of cells, especially malignant ones. The human cell derived proteins are the ones that will maintain a physiological balance, since they will release all their proteins (not just one) when you grow/culture them. That being said, within the human cell derived growth factor space, not all these cells act in the same way. Their behavioral characteristics are very different, depending on where the cell is sourced from. The three most commonly used human cells sources for protein harvesting within esthetics are the dermal fibroblast cell, the adipose (fat) stem cell, and the bone marrow stem cell. All of these cells will produce growth factors and cytokines, but the main differences are the types and the amounts of the proteins each produces. The most simplistic way to explain this is that cells will either produce a net pattern of inflammatory molecules, or anti-inflammatory molecules. The dermal fibroblast, while powerful in its ability to produce collagen and elastin, is a weak producer of growth factors; think firstgeneration technology. Bone Marrow Stem Cells produce an abundance of these proteins, and they are predominantly anti-inflammatory. And Adipose (Fat) Stem Cells, also producing an abundance of molecules, tend to release a significant amount of inflammatory ones. When we know definitively that aging and inflammation are synonymous, it is vital that you only use anti-inflammatory molecules on your skin. Growth Factors and Cytokines are powerful tools in your skin health and anti-aging arsenal, and their role in a variety of skin conditions has been fully elucidated in the medical literature. When seeking out a topical growth factor product for you and your clients, keep these important facts in mind – make sure you avoid using growth factors in isolation, make sure your growth factors are in a physiological balance (these are typically human sourced), and finally, make sure the net pattern of the growth factors in the product are antiinflammatory. With this is mind, you are now armed with the knowledge to make educated decisions about which growth factor products and brands will help you and your clients achieve all your skin health goals. Your skin is talking…are you listening?
Daniel Clary is a licensed esthetician, passionate entrepreneur and 13-year spa industry veteran. He has spent his career studying cosmetic chemistry, skin function, botanical
Contact: skinaccents.com | 1- 866 - 282 - 9153
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medicine and holistic nutrition. He is currently the national educator for an innovative holistic skin care company.
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DEEP DIVE PORE CLEANSING Using suction to detoxify and unclog pores by Dr. Craig Wenborg
Deep within our pores, sebum plugs develop. South Korean skin care experts coined the term “pore sucking� to describe waterbased pore exfoliation. This procedure provides benefits not seen with traditional exfoliation methods. If you have considered adding liquid microdermabrasion services to your practice, this article is for you!
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skin Deep Dive Pore Cleansing
The human skin pore is a dynamic anatomical element. Pores produce gases, oils and sweat. There are two types of pores. Each hair shaft has a pore called the pilosebaceous unit. The purpose of this pore is to secrete sebaceous oils for skin lubrication. Sweat pores have the function of producing a water and salt mixture for evaporative cooling. Pores are the chimney of toxin release. Detoxification through vapor, water and oil occurs through each pore. Pores need help in performing their design purpose. Things can go wrong without pore exfoliation. The most obvious pore failure is the comedone. Here, the failure of sebaceous oil flow, and the accumulation of dead skin cells, sets the stage for bacteria buildup. Sweat bumps are the result of plugging of the sweat pore and backup of sweat. Pore sucking involves the use of equipment which lays down a serum then vacuums it back into a holding tank. This system of aqua exfoliation provides beauty and detoxification benefits, wrinkle management as well as comedone and sweat bump management. Like a bar of soap, the procedure causes no change in the structure and function of the human body. Estheticians and advanced medical service providers can perform the service. 18
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Aqua exfoliation systems are relatively new to the skin care industry. There are many systems on the market. All systems have common elements. The machine delivers a variable and controllable flow of serum through a hand piece. At the end of the hand piece is a tip. The tip is designed to channel the flow of serum from an output port to a return port. The procedure removes dead skin debris, oils, salts and toxins. Systems on the market have different options and pricing. A station is the reservoir holding the serum. Single station units allow for a single serum application. Multiple station systems allow for rapid change from one serum to another, as you go through your protocols. When purchasing a single station system, ask the manufacturer for additional bottles so as to change out as you provide your service. The two station systems are recommended for the professional setting. The two station system allows for changing serums without mechanically removing and replacing bottles. The ability to control vacuum pressure is highly recommended in the professional setting. Vacuum pressure draws serum and skin debris, returning it to a collection tank. Higher vacuum is important for specific needs such as comedone decrustation. Lower
vacuum levels are important for general exfoliation and sensitive skin clients. Excessive vacuum can lead to petechial hemorrhaging on those with weak blood vessels. At the end of the hand piece is the tip. Tips can be single use or reusable with sterilization. Different manufacturers have different tip designs and different tip materials. Common names include the vortex tip, radial tip and channel tip. Tips are made of hard plastic, diamond or softer silica. Hard tips draw the skin over the edge of the tip mechanically stretching the skin. The combination of tip edge with vacuum pressure creates mechanical exfoliation. Diamond tips draw the skin onto a cutting edge for more aggressive mechanical exfoliation. Soft tips act like a squeegee without the mechanical edge effect. Mechanical exfoliation created at the tip is amplified by chemical exfoliation from the serum. Most serums are formulated in the 3+ pH range. This allows an esthetician to perform the service within state board regulations. Light peel with mechanical effect provides the esthetician with a very effective tool. Three general serum formulations dominate the industry. Those serums are formulated for general exfoliation, T-zone management,
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skin Deep Dive Pore Cleansing and infusion for hydration with wrinkle management. General exfoliation peeling serums are predominantly alpha-hydroxy acid serums. Alpha-Hrdroxy acids emulsify the stratum corneum allowing for the removal of dead skin cells. When enhanced with vitamin C, lightening and brightening effects can be achieved. T-zone management focuses on serums which have the effect of softening skin oils. Salicylic acid is the major acid used for this purpose. T-zone serums reduce pore size through the combined effects of removal of pore debris as well as reducing oil shine to the skin. Finishing touch involves hydration and wrinkle management. Hyaluronic acid and peptides infuse into the skin plumping the skin for that final look. Each service provider has their own threshold for the use of synthetic and non-natural serum ingredients. I will point out that besides your client's health consideration, serums formulat-
ed with synthetic fragrances can scent stain your machine. As you provide this service, you wish for your client to experience a different smell with each serum used. I have experienced serum formulations which are so over powering, that the machine permanently takes on a particular scent. This deprives your client of the experience of scent differentiation. Scent differentiation enhances the client experience. There is an art to pore sucking. The most common technique is to dab a row of serum on the skin, then wait. Thumb anchor and then move the hand piece tip over the area to remove the serum and debris. Patterns include along the jaw line, low vacuum pressure under the eyes and T-zone and forehead areas. The kiss technique is the procedure where the hand piece tip is held in one location then lifted as with a kiss. This technique is beneficial for extraction, infusion and T-zone oil reduction. Most manufacturers will
provide two sizes of tips to accommodate variable anatomy. Pore sucking aqua exfoliation is big business. I have yet to see anyone who does not like the procedure. Clients report a healthy open moist feeling to their skin. Clients repeat with regularity, averaging three weeks between services. The average cost of a procedure is $100.00 to $150.00. Serum cost averages $6.00 per procedure. Services which dovetail well with pore sucking include Oxygen Facial, microcurrent and radio frequency.
Dr. Craig Wenborg is CEO of SpaSerums™. He originated Oxygen Facial InfusionŽ and holds the registered service mark. Previous publications include Oxygen Facials, Red Carpet Service or Serious Skin Care and The Esthetic Benefits of Oxygen Skin Care. He can be reached at 1-800-528-1026
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The Lodge at Woodloch Escape and Re-Focus on Yourself
SPA OF THE MONTH
by Samantha Garcia
Just two hours away from the hustle and bustle of New York City, lies a blissful retreat nestled deep in the enchanting Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania. Recognized as one of the world’s best destination spas by Condé Nast Traveler’s 2019 Reader’s Choice Awards and honored with the prestigious AAA Four Diamond Award, The Lodge at Woodloch is everything an all-inclusive spa resort should be. Guests would describe it as heaven on earth, where all of their needs are met and new experiences exceed their expectations.
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spa Spa Of The Month
The oversized guestrooms and suites are divine, offering the warm comfort of a private country estate while overlooking 150 acres of tranquil woodlands. The day begins with breakfast in TREE restaurant, a Bruce Lake hike or a challenging pool workout. The journey of personal awakening continues with a wide range of classes, workshops and events for guests to revive their spirits. From archery lessons to an aromatherapy demonstration, guests can choose to stay as active or relaxed as they like during their stay.
A Personal Awakening With over 35 classes, guests are encouraged to embrace their passions and (re)discover stress-relieving outlets. Spa Director Nancy Deaton says “we love watching our guests return to the 'real world' with a new sense of vitality.” Whether indulging in outdoor adventures or letting their worries melt away in the Aqua Garden’s Hydromassage WaterWalls, guests are surrounded by the inspiring wonders of nature. Water in motion is not the only thing engaging their senses. Guests can restore a sense of harmony by enjoying an array 26
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of rejuvenating massages, body treatments and facials.
seventh chakra and a vitalizing foot massage that completes the awakening experience.
Signature Treatment The Lodge at Woodloch’s signature treatment is the Rosemary Awakening Body Treatment, (Swedish, 100 minutes/$280 or Deep Tissue, 125 minutes/$365). “Guests will feel invigorated by the Rosemary, Mint, Vetiver and Lemongrass while at the same time a deep sense of relaxation by the soothing of sore muscles and tense areas that are often missed in self-care (scalp and feet),”says Spa Director Nancy. The treatment begins with a stimulating rosemary and mint body polish that cleanses and detoxifies the skin. The polish contains desert salts and dead sea salts to smooth and refine skin, as well as jojoba and sunflower oil which contains protective, anti-aging properties. The treatment is then followed by a full body massage with hydrating shea butter and warm essential oils of vetiver and lemongrass to help alleviate soreness. To enhance relaxation, clients are wrapped while experiencing a luxurious scalp massage that balances the
Marketing Like many successful spas, the team at The Lodge at Woodloch uses traditional targeted advertising on social media, online and in key publications to market their business. They also take advantage of experiential opportunities to attract new customers, such as premiering a mini-treatment at a media event in New York City or inviting guests at the Greenwich Food & Wine show to taste food from Executive Chef Josh Tomson. While these marketing techniques can help get clients through the door, Spa Director Nancy attributes much of their success to word-of-mouth and customer loyalty. “When our guests have an amazing experience, they want to share that with their loved ones. This is the biggest honor and what we are most proud of,” she says. The Lodge at Woodloch has kept its reign as one of the best spa resorts in PA primarily due to the luxury experience they provide their guests. This goes to show
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spa Spa Of The Month proach and highlights the products that are used after the guests’ treatments. “Typically, the guests love the experience and results so much that they are requesting the products,” notes Spa Director Nancy.
Rundown The Lodge at Woodloch 109 River Birch Ln, Hawley, PA 18428 thelodgeatwoodloch.com Launch: May, 2006 Owner: John Kiesendahl Spa Director: Nancy Deaton that developing an excellent reputation is key to generating repeat business.
Training The team at The Lodge at Woodloch undergoes ongoing training to ensure that they provide impeccable services year-round. As a results-oriented spa, the staff members are continually learning new skills and techniques to deliver the best results for their clients. The team strongly believes in cross-training to learn what other departments feature so that they can mirror and adjust their services to provide a better experience. Spa Director Nancy incentivizes her employees by offering perks like a family day at their sister resort, Woodloch Pines family resort, and a birthday certificate that can be used to enjoy the spa or restaurant.
Special Events and Promotions While seasonal offers come and go, they can have a lasting impact on any spa business. At The Lodge, new treatments are offered seasonally to captivate new and existing customers yearning for something fresh and unique. This sets the spa apart from the competition and helps keep staff members engaged. Since The Lodge at Woodloch is a destination spa resort, visits to the spa 28
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can often fluctuate depending on the time of year. Spa Director Nancy says “we have several special offers that we focus on at different times of the year. We do promote mid-weeks for overnight stays at a bigger discount than weekends.” The spa also advertises evergreen offers like a babymoon escape or mother-daughter getaway to entice guests to visit no matter the season.
Retail The Poconos luxury spa prides itself on taking on a more holistic approach by providing treatments that are effective based on their natural and organic components. The products used in treatments often contain clean and earthly ingredients that optimize skin health and support overall wellbeing. The spa uses Naturopathica products that address the root of skin imbalances by combining proven botanicals like Oats, Aloe and seed oils with dermatological actives like Glycolic Acid and Retinol. The Lodge also loves to support their local community whenever possible. “Our essential oil infused massage oils are procured locally from a very trusted source. We also feature some herbs from our own on-site garden,” says Spa Director Nancy. When it comes to selling the products, The Lodge takes a soft-sell ap-
Amenities: 27 treatment rooms; signature private showers/changing rooms; separate men’s and women’s saunas, steam rooms, and whirlpools; private men’s and women’s fireplace lounges; co-ed post-treatment relaxation rooms; co-ed soaking pools with heated Hydromassage WaterWalls, indoor pool designed for water aqua classes; outdoor horizon-edge whirlpool; three mind-body studios for yoga, aerobics, meditation and more; cardio weight studio; pilates training area; spinning room Guest ratio: 65 percent female, 35 percent male, 18 percent locals. Spa Director Spotlight: Spa Director, Nancy Deaton, joined The Lodge at Woodloch in Fall, 2006. She was instrumental in ensuring the spa programming, treatments, fitness options, outdoor adventure and art program flourished in the luxury market by creating training and focus on guest-centric service. Nancy has spearheaded the evolution of the spa and wellness experience, including a multi-million dollar spa renovation. She has over 16 years of luxury hospitality experience. If she could give her younger self one piece of advice, it would be “to follow your heart, intuition, and when in doubt, let Mother nature be your guide!”
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Spa
NEWS 2
Virox Rejuvenate Wipes
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Equipro Ioniderm This technology is designed to use the power of chemical and ionic techniques to promote deep pore cleansing, while improving skin and promoting relaxation. The current gradually increases as the contact has been established with your patient for optimal comfort.
Get rid of germs in as little as one minute without compromising workplace health and safety with harsh chemicals. Rejuvenate disinfectants deliver hospital grade strength with the lowest EPA toxic rating to keep your clients safe from infections.
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Procell Starter Kit & Replacement Packages Improving the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, acne & acne scarring. The Procell system stimulates a rejuvenation cascade that your body already has to improve the overall clinical health of your skin. The starter packages are ideal for turn-key launch and re-ordering.
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Merrylaz Perfect Touch A versatile and non-invasive aesthetic device based on high frequency ultrasonic technology that delivers instant results in the removal of common superficial skin irregularities like age spots, sun spots, skin tags, hyper pigmentation and more. Fast, effective and simple!
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Service providers rely on their appointments for income, which ultimately contributes to their lifestyle and wellbeing. In a spa environment, where the wellbeing of clients is the focus, it is important to recognize that if the service provider is not doing well, neither will the clients. Cancellation policies are necessary to keep the spa busy, but they also ensure the wellbeing of the therapists and, therefore, the other patrons of the business. Cancellation policies benefit workers and clients. They ease the stress of a lost appointment for the therapist, and give enough time in advance for more clients to take appointments and have a better experience with a happy therapist.
It Takes Two to Tango Cancellation policies are essential, as they hold clients responsible for the time they have scheduled with a spa and with a therapist. Without one, clients might feel no obligation to hold their appointments because there is no penalty. Cancellation policies remind clients that their actions have consequences, and not showing up to an appointment is an action with only negative ones. However, it is up to the spa to make sure clients know the gravity of their decision to cancel appointments and know everything that will happen if they do decide to cancel (or no show).
NO SHOW,
NO GO
Dealing with cancellations by Aurora Solis LNEonline.com
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business No Show, No Go If the client is not made aware of the consequences for cancelling an appointment, it is unfair to hold him or her responsible. The policy must be visible to the client prior to booking the appointment. For spas that use web-booking, before the client can book, a window with the full terms of the policy must be read and agreed to in order for the client to finish booking. For appointments taken over the phone or made by front desk staff, the policy must be made transparent to the client prior to booking the appointment. When clients are surprised by cancellation policies, this has lasting negative effects on the business. Clients might write a negative web review, preventing other clients from booking appointments; they might tell everyone they know not to go to this spa, and they surely will not be back again. This can be prevented with open communication and transparency.
Implementing A Cancellation Policy Cancellation notice should be given at least 24 hours prior to the appointment. This gives the spa time to find another client to fill the spot for the therapist. In smaller cities, however, even 24 hours might not be sufficient. 48 hours is preferable for spas that are not as busy. If the client has booked a service only a few hours before the appointment time, there might be no opportunity to fill the spot. However, that spot might still have been empty had the client not booked in the first place, so it is not fitting to charge for the appointment in this case. Clients have many reasons to cancel appointments. This can include being sick, family emergencies, heavy traffic, sleeping in, or simply forgetting. Stories are often made up to get out of paying for an appointment. The spa should be calm and understanding in conversing with the client. The spa should always believe the client and be empathetic. However, many cancellations somehow turn into emergencies, so the cancellation policy should still be upheld. It 34
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Cancellation notice should be given at least 24 hours prior to the appointment. should be stated very clearly in the cancellation policy that there are no exceptions (including emergencies) to the policy. When the client agrees to this and books the appointment, this is final. Clients should be held responsible for the appointments they book. Enforcing the cancellation policy is important so that clients do not take advantage of a business. Upon booking an appointment, credit card information should be taken in order to implement the cancellation policy. The cancellation policy should clearly state prior to booking the appointment that the client will be charged a penalty should they break the agreement with the spa, regardless of whatever emergency. Depending on whether the spa has selected the 24 or 48 hour policy, if the client cancels after the timeframe, 50 percent of the service should be charged to make up for the lost time for the therapist. As no materials were used for the service, 100 percent of the service cost is not necessary.
a later time on the same day, then no charge should be enforced. If the appointment is rescheduled for another day, but the therapist has already prepared for the appointment, the penalty should cover the cost of the materials for the appointment and the time it took the therapist to set up. Clients that no-show, cancel, or reschedule continuously (more than three times) outside of the 24-48 hour window should be blacklisted. In addition to enforcing the cancellation policy, the client’s name should be documented, and he or she should be carefully monitored when booking appointments and encouraged to seek walk-in appointments instead. This should be implemented by the front desk staff. Most booking systems have a mechanism to message the staff about particular clients. When a blacklisted client attempts to book an appointment, the client should be informed that the books are full, but that the client can walk in or call back to see if an appointment is available at the desired time.
A Note On No-Shows
Confirmation Is Key
In the case of a no-show or an appointment cancelled after the therapist has already set up for the appointment (usually a four hour window), the appointment should be charged in full, as materials in addition to time have been wasted. If the client is late, the service may still be conducted, however the duration should only last the remainder of the service as to not affect the following clients, and the client should be charged in full.
Cancellation policies can be harsh, and everyone is prone to human error. Clients should be reminded of the appointment and of the cancellation policy. The client must agree to the cancellation policy prior to booking. However, prior to the time frame for cancellations chosen by the spa (24 or 48 hours depending on the business of the spa and population of the city), the front desk staff should remind clients via their preferred communication method of their appointment, reminding them of the cancellation policy. This gives clients time to decide whether they can hold their appointment while they are still outside of the cancellation window, and gives the spa time to fill the appointment.
Rescheduling Rules Often, when a client cancels, he or she reschedules. If the client reschedules, the penalty should depend on when the appointment is rescheduled for. If the appointment is rescheduled for
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Business
NEWS Repêchage® Hosts SobelCo’s “Women in International Trade Roundtable”
First 1000 Days of Wellness® (F1000 Days) Partners with Wellness Education Hub
Repêchage® had the pleasure of hosting SobelCo’s “Women in International Trade Roundtable”, alongside Collen Logan, Marketing Director for SobelCo and Sally Glick, Principal and Chief Growth Strategist for Sobel Co, at the Repêchage® Corporate Headquarters in Secaucus, NJ.
The F1000 Days Spa and Resort Training Program will prepare massage therapists and estheticians to serve a very significant segment of the population - couples who are trying to get pregnant (preconception), during pregnancy or postpartum and then the first 2 years of life with baby.
repechage.com
wellnesseducationhub.com first1000daysofwellness.com
Welcome Joanna Vargas to the ICES Stage! Celebrity esthetician and skin care guru Joanna Vargas makes her main stage debut at this month’s International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia on March 29th! Don’t miss it!
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esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month!
• Recognize those toes? Our #estyeditor was blessed with a faux glow by the one and only @showglowtans!
• Will the #EEduo’s own Marketing Mika be Nicck Townsend’s model again this year? Stop by the Main Stage to find out!
Are you picking up this issue while currently at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philly? We hope you are! That’s means we can’t be far away! Stop by our Esthetician Edit booth and Speaker Lounge and let us introduce you to our very own esty mentors and skin care fairy godmothers: Nerida Joy, Joanna Vargas, and Danna Omari! Follow along all our #PhillyCongress20 adventures and don’t forget to enter the giveaway! Follow @ estheticianedit for all the deets!
Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit
• Prevention, people! We stopped in to see our beloved Dr. J for a little injectable pick me up!
• Our first podcast! The lovely Kristi of The Spa Buzz is revamping her podcast. You won’t want to miss this one! Coming soon…
Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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on Instagram to be featured!
@estheticianedit
Acne Guide How to recognize and treat all types of acne
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Classifying Acne Recognizing different grades of acne severity by Aurora Solis
For being such a common skin problem, acne itself can be very complex, from its causes to treatment. You've probably also noticed that everyone's acne is different. That's because there are different types and stages of acne. Acne will even be different at different life periods. Knowing about your acne type, stage, and severity will help you determine the best, most customized treatment for your skin.
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Acne guide of acne, too? So your acne will fit into several categories, like mild acne vulgaris, or severe acne rosacea. Acne Vulgaris Acne vulgaris is your regular, run-of-themill acne. If you're breaking out, most likely you have acne vulgaris. Acne vulgaris can appear on your face, back, shoulders, and buttocks (don't be embarrassed, butt acne is common). It can start off mild, but it can progress quickly to more severe forms. That's why dermatologists recommend treating acne vulgaris as soon as you notice breakouts.2 Comedonal Acne Comedonal acne is a subset of acne vulgaris. Instead of having inflamed pimples, though, you'll have bumpiness, blackheads, and milia. This type of acne can happen anywhere on the face or body, and it can range from very mild to quite severe. Determining Your Acne Severity There isn't a universal way to classify acne severity. That means every skin care professional classifies acne in a slightly different way. Many dermatologists use grades (I through IV, with I being the mildest and IV being the most severe). But the most widely used, and simplest, way of classifying acne is fairly straightforward: mild, moderate, and severe. There's no test to determine your acne severity. A dermatologist does so by a simple visual inspection of your skin. Your skin can move between these grades because acne tends to wax and wane on its own.1 Mild Acne If your breakouts are few and fairly minor, you've got mild acne. You have some blackheads and bumpiness, and even an inflamed pimple here and there, but in general your blemishes aren't widespread. The good news is mild acne can often be treated with over-the-counter acne products. Mild acne can progress 42
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to more severe forms, though, so it's best to treat it early. Moderate Acne With moderate acne, breakouts will be more noticeable. You may still have bumpy skin and blackheads, but you'll also regularly get inflamed papules and pustules. You're probably struggling to get your acne under control with OTC products. They just aren't strong enough for this type of acne. Prescription medications are typically needed to clear up moderate breakouts. Severe Acne The biggest difference between moderate and severe acne: inflammation. Your blemishes are large, red, and swollen. If your acne is severe, see a dermatologist. It's more difficult to get severe acne under control, and you'll need a prescription to do so. Different Types of Acne Acne isn't just classified by its severity. Did you know there are different types
Cystic Acne This is the most severe form of acne vulgaris. It can occur anywhere on the face or body. With cystic acne, you'll have a lot of inflammation, and large, painful blemishes (or cysts). Acne cysts occur deeper in the skin than your typical pimple, take weeks to heal, and can cause a lot of damage to the skin. Because they are so deep, topical acne treatments aren't all that effective. Instead, oral medications like Accutane (isotretinoin) are the best option here.3 Nodular Acne Nodular acne is another severe type of acne vulgaris. Breakouts are large, hard and deep blemishes called nodules. Many women get a few nodular breakouts just before their monthly cycle. But anyone can get nodular acne, both men and women at any age. Just like with cystic acne, nodular acne should be seen by a dermatologist. If you regularly get nodular breakouts, you will need a prescription acne medication to get them under control.3
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Acne guide Acne Rosacea Acne rosacea is a type of acne that affects adults, usually after the age of 30. It's more common in women, but men tend to get more severe forms. Acne rosacea happens only on the face. With rosacea, you may get some bumpiness and pimples but you'll notice other signs too: a red, flushed face, and tiny blood vessels on the nose and cheeks. Stress, sun exposure, eating spicy foods, or drinking hot liquids can make your symptoms worse. Those with mild rosacea may not even know that have it. But it can progress to more severe forms, causing an inflamed, bulbous nose, and even eye problems, so it's best to be checked out by a dermatologist.4 Acne Mechanica Acne mechanica is a type of acne that's caused when there is excess heat, pressure, or friction on the skin. This type
of acne is most common on the body but can occur on the face, too. It's sometimes called sports acne because it's common in young athletes, thanks to helmets, athletic pads, and sweatbands. Anything that traps heat and rubs against the skin can trigger acne mechanica. Mild acne mechanica can be treated with OTC products, while more severe forms should be seen by a dermatologist. This type of acne can clear itself, too, once the offending trigger is taken away.5
stop using the offending cosmetic or hair product to really see improvement of the skin.6
Acne Cosmetica Cosmetica sounds a lot like cosmetics, so you can probably guess what triggers this form of acne. Products like makeup, creams, and moisturizers, and even certain hair care products cause this type of facial acne. Acne cosmetica is a type of comedonal acne. It's treated with your typical acne products. You'll also have to
Acne Look-Alike Conditions Acne isn't the only skin problem that can cause pimples. There are many other skin conditions that cause pimples, red bumps, or whiteheads on the skin. Be especially wary if your "acne" appears in odd places, like your legs, armpits, scalp, hands or feet, stomach, or pubic area. Acne vulgaris doesn't develop in those areas.
Excoriated Acne Everyone has, at some point, picked at a pimple. People with excoriated acne chronically and excessively pick at pimples (or even healthy skin) to the point of causing wounds. Does this sound like you? Don't be ashamed, but do talk to your doctor. He can help you so you don't feel driven to pick at your skin anymore.
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Become a Master Extractor
The Secret to Clearing Pores by Cristina Beecham
To extract or not to extract, that is the question. Extractions were once thought to be mandatory in a facial if the skin presented comedones, milia, or blemishes. However, more and more skin care experts are questioning whether they should be performed at all. Although improperly performed extractions can cause temporary bruising and permanent scarring, if properly executed, extractions can be very beneficial in clearing comedones. Over the years, there have been many apparatus and products designed specifically to expel comedones from the skin. Manual extraction, metal extractors, suction machines, lancets, liposolvent product formulations and adhesive styled strips are some of the methods developed for both comedone and blemish removal. With any of the methods mentioned above, proper technique is imperative to avoid skin damage.
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Acne guide
• Become A Master Extractor The unfortunate reality is that it takes practice to master the art of extractions, and many aestheticians can recall those days in school learning to extract, causing both pain and damage to our classmates and allowing them to return the favor when they practiced on us. Many, however, became masters at the art of extraction and developed a large facial clientele for their services. Some dermatologists offer these services in their practice, but they are not covered under most medical plans. The patient is left to pay the full amount of the service, which is normally more costly than visiting an esthetician.
• Comedones Extractions can be very beneficial to the skin, as various types of blemishes left untreated can develop into more serious skin eruptions. Let’s begin with comedones: Normally, those with oily T-zones can relate to the aggravation of comedones, which appear as black block-
ages in the pores. The sebum secretions oxidize, causing a black “plug” to form in the pore. If left untreated, the comedone can become larger and more visible, enlarging the pore. The sebum secretions continue, allowing bacterial proliferation to develop. This environment is especially appealing to the propioni (acne causing) bacteria, as the clogging diminishes the skin’s respiration, making this oxygen starved location the perfect location for this anerobic bacteria to flourish. This can lead to initial inflammation, followed by the development of infection and pus. Untreated comedones do not always develop into more severe blemishes, however they can be simply annoying due to their visibility on the skin. Some think that washing the face more frequently to remove the oil with soaps or alkaline solutions is the answer, but this aggravates the problem in two ways. When an oily skin is stripped of oil and the barrier function becomes compromised, the skin reacts by producing more oil in an attempt to rebal-
ance itself. The other problem with alkaline solutions is that they actually cause oxidation to occur, which perpetuates the comedone development. Extraction is the preferred method of treatment for comedones. There are many liposolvent solutions that can be used to soften the comedones prior to extraction. When combined with steaming, which makes the skin more pliable, these solutions assist in making the removal more comfortable for the client. Many professionals prefer manual extraction. Once the skin has been prepared, the esthetician will use either a finger cot or sterile gloves, and wrapping gauze or facial tissue around the fingers they will gently apply pressure to the comedone with a lifting type movement to expel the comedone from the port. If incorrect pressure is applied, the comedone will not expel. It will remain in the skin and perhaps be a little further embedded. Regular comedone removal is very important, as it will prevent the
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Acne guide pores from becoming distended and minimize the risk of blemish development. A deep cleansing facial should always include comedone and blemish extraction.
• Milia Milia are another form of sebum that should be removed from the skin, however these generally require a lancet to be eliminated (lancets are not permitted in every state, so be aware of your own state’s regulations). Milia appearance like small, whitish “pearls” under the skin. They are solidified sebum deposits that, if left, can become larger and increasingly visible. Although they normally do not develop into a blemish or cause inflammation, they can present as a raised irregularity on the skin. To remove milia, a lancet is used to gently open the skin, then with a gentle pressure on either side of this solidified sebum, it is easily expelled from the skin.
• Microcysts Blemishes in the form of pustules and microcysts can also be treated by an esthetician and are normally extracted using a lancet. When extracting pustules, often the infection will be released as soon as a small opening is created in the skin or by applying a very light pressure to either side of the pustule to remove all the infection. This is often not the case with microcysts, as the infection is deeper and can be extremely painful. First, the esthetician must evaluate the condition of the microcyst to confirm that it is ready to extract. If it is not, and excessive pressure is applied, the infection can rupture the wall of the pore, causing permanent damage to the pore, scarring on the skin and an increase of the infected area.
A deep cleansing facial should always include comedone and blemish extraction. unable to heal as quickly as younger skin, making proper technique even more critical during extraction.
• Metal Extractors Manual extraction by a skilled professional is the most popular method of extraction. However, metal extractors and suction machines are still used by some clinics. The metal extractors pose the most risk, as they cause an inordinate amount of pressure on a very small area of the skin. These extractors are metal with loops at the ends. The loop is placed around the comedone, pressure is applied, and the comedone is released. The concern with this method is that the PSI (pounds per square inch) can be very high due to the small size of the loop and the applied leverage. This can damage the capillaries and the skin, leaving behind permanent scarring. If used correctly, with a small amount of pressure and at the correct angle, this method can be effective without damaging the skin.
• Lancets When using the lancet, it is only to remove the epidermal skin. It is never used to penetrate the dermis. It is understandable why many think the lancet would be the most controversial of methods; however, since it is used only at the epidermal level, they are few consequences when used correctly.
• Suction • Proper Technique Clearly, extraction is a technique that requires practice to be perfected. Scarring occurs when an abnormal amount of pressure is applied to the skin, which can cause damage to both the pore and the surrounding tissue. Mature skin is 50
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with this method, but when it is properly executed, it is very effective with little or no discomfort experienced by the client.
Suction machines cause the least discomfort and can be quite effective. The risk with this method is using a suction that is too strong and keeping the suction on one area for a prolonged period, thereby risking damage to the capillaries. Thin skin is the most at risk
• Post-Procedure Following all extractions, the esthetician must apply an antiseptic product to eliminate bacteria. High frequency is also very effective, with the electrode used dependent on the desired action. The argon gas electrode appears violet when activated and is used for treating acne. The ultra-violet light is activated when the electrode is placed on the skin, providing both healing and soothing effects as well as an anti-bacterial action. This step is performed prior to the application of the concentrates and masks. There are many masks available specifically designed to calm and soothe the skin thereby eliminating any redness that may have been sustained during extraction. Occlusive masks that are thermo-cooling are the gold standard when it comes to eliminating redness and any associated swelling sustained from the extractions. The skin will be even toned with no evidence of the extractions post treatment. Clay masks are also a popular choice for acneic skins in the clinic and for homecare, as the clays absorb any excess oil often contains active ingredients to provide anti-bacterial and soothing actions. The esthetician must always do a skin analysis to assess if extraction is appropriate. In targeted aging treatments or pampering facials, extraction is not the priority. Clients that require extraction should be encouraged to book a deep cleansing treatment prior to booking healthy aging and indulgent treatments.
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Deep Clean for Clarity
Purify and regenerate your client's acne-prone skin...
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1. Microsmooth AHA Resurfacing Serum • CelleCé • cellecleskincare.com 2. Beauty Infusion Probiotics • Skin Authority • skinauthority.com 3. Pore Cleansing Oil • Roccoco Botanicals • roccoco.com 4. Sulfur Mask • Clinicians Complex Medical Skincare • clinicianscomplex.com 5. Oxygen Face Normalizing Cream • Karin Herzog • us.karinherzog.com 6. Mandelic + Fusion • Roccoco Botanicals • roccoco.com 7. Sulfur Spot Treatment • Face Reality Skincare • pros.facerealityskincare.com 8. Hydra Medic Clear Complexion Drying Lotion • Repêchage • repechage.com 52
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9. CLR Foam Cleanser • Dp Dermaceuticals • dpderm.com 10. Glysalac Dermobooster • Sothys Paris • sothys-usa.com 11. Mandelic Acid 3-in-1 Exfoliating Cleanser • Vivant Skincare • vivantskincare.com 12. Purifying Cleanser • DermaSwiss • dermaswiss.com 13. Bacteriostat Cleanser • BiON Skincare • bionresearch.com 14. Spot Stop Anti-Blemish Lotion • Circadia • Circadia.com 15. Yuzu Lemondade Peel • Savor Beauty • savorbeauty.com LNEonline.com
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1. Sebu-Tone Clarifier • Environ • environskincare.com 2. Daily Blemish Pads • The A Method • theamethod.com 3. Blemish Banisher Gel • Dermaware • dermaware.com 4. Aloe Hydroxy Clarifying Night Serum • Verabella • verabella.com 5. Acne-Blemish Treatment Gel • Nature Pure Clinical Skincare • naturepure.com 6. Hydrating Charcoal Mask • GINAMARIE • ginamarieproducts.com 7. Charcoal Drying Lotion • Georgette Klinger • georgetteklinger.com 8. Hydra Nourishing Gel • Diana Ralys Skin Health • drskinhealth.com 54
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9. Acne Advanced Clarifying Masque • Eminence Organic Skin Care • eminenceorganics.com 10. Soothe Face Oil CBD 100mg • Hempfield Botanicals • hempfieldbotanicals.com 11. Macchiato Foaming Cleansing Scrubber • Callyssee • callyssee.com 12. Controlling Cream • Doctor D. Schwab • doctorschwabca.com 13. Balancing Honey Cleansing Elixir • Among The Flowers • amongtheflowers.com 14. Acne Reversing Gel • M.A.D Skincare • mad-skincare.com 15. Clarify - Blemish Retinal Serum • Osmosis Beauty • osmosisbeauty.com 16. Oil Control Moisture Milk • Elemental Herbology • elementalherbology.com 56
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Wellness At Home Techniques to teach your clients by Sherrie Tennessee
The topic of Wellness has gone mainstream, from posts on Instagram from Deepak Chopra, articles on the Huffington post, to a full tour by Oprah. The concept of Wellness is not new and even Wellness retreats have long been the rage with locations such as Golden Door, Pritikin, and Rancho La Puerta created by industry icon - Deborah Szekely, dating back to the 1940s. Most recently, there is a shift and individuals want to incorporate wellness into their daily lives and not have to leave the house to have those experiences. With an increase in Wellness real estate according to the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) Wellness Lifestyle Real Estate represents approximately $119B of the $3.7T global wellness economy. This rapidly growing sector has historically included residential, hospitality, and mixed-use real-estate developments with wellness-related facilities and services incorporated into their planning, design, and programming. With the concept of “build well to live well,� companies such as Canyon Ranch and Mandarin Oriental are offering the buyers the opportunity to live in wellness every day. Residences are now being included in the development of typically commercial/hotel locations with the concept of incorporating wellness into the daily lives. These high-end locations are not the norm for the majority, so finding ways to create a sense of wellness at home has become big business.
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organic & wellness Wellness At Home
Here are 5 wellness strategies to incorporate into your regimen at home According to a recent survey conducted by Statista, 65 percent of women in the United States used skin care products every day, with a focus on the face. When questioned why the numbers were so high, those surveyed were seeking ways to avoid the signs of aging and the face is one of the first place to show signs, though there are other ignored parts of the body that can show signs of aging and deserve the same focus as the facial area. Dr. Lauren Eckert Ploch, MD, MEd, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and member of the American Academy of Dermatology, noted: “In recent years, I've noticed a significant increase in the number of patients interested in improving the appearance of the hands, neck, and chest. Previously, these areas were overlooked in favor of treating the face. Over time, people have realized that addressing other areas of the body with fillers can maintain a youthful appearance.” 62
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As such, home wellness strategies will focus on the neglected areas including the neck, chest, and hands. The area between the chin and the lower part of the bust/chest is one of the most neglected, most delicate areas of your body and are quick to reveal sun damage and aging. It is easy and quick to incorporate the items shared in your daily skincare regime. NECK TREATMENTS In a 2018 Mayo Clinic article, quoted Dr. Hadi, founder of the Vivderma skin care line as stating “the neck wrinkles happen as we age due to the loss of skin strength and elasticity. Necklines and wrinkles are a normal part of aging. They're caused in part by skin losing elasticity and being exposed to UV light over time. It was also noted looking down at our phones and a lack of sunscreen can contribute to the 'turkey neck' issue.” A Cornell Medical study found 75% of Americans are chronically dehydrated, finding ways to keep the fluid in our body, particularly the skin requires more than just drinking
water. With that information, the first suggestion for Wellness at home is to drink more water! Next, we focus on the external methods to combat the signs of aging in the neglected areas. First up is ToGoSpa who has answered the call for Wellness at home with a neck mask. ToGoSpa is a Las Vegas-based company, which promises parabens, dyes, and cruelty-free products. The Neck Mask works in as little as 30 minutes, as each mask is “infused with a combination of natural high-density marine collagen, enzymes, amino acids, natural marine minerals, trace elements, proteins and vitamins,” according to Erin Van Meter, the Director of Sales and Marketing ToGoSpa. The products are available on the company website, Amazon, and at the various ICES tradeshows. The neck mask from ToGoSpa can be used in conjunction with another product, including the Power Repair® Rapid-Restore Neck & Chest Serum and Cream from Pevoina. Kim Lee, the Director of the Midwest for Pevonia notes this unique 2-in-1 product “synergizes the action of our powerful serum and highly effective cream to form an outstanding combination of breakthrough active ingredients to produce astonishing visible results!” Boosting elasticity, toning, hydrating, nourishing and skin brightening. The Rapid-Restore Neck & Chest Serum and Cream includes anti-free radical and aids in the smoothing of wrinkles and fine lines. CHEST OR DÉCOLLETAGE AREA Moving down from the neck to the chest, or for those in the industry Décolletage, the chest has become a major focus as the sagging muscles and discoloration in the area can be taletail signs of aging. With microneedling, laser, and injectables or fillers used to combat the thinning skin associated with aging. There are results-based alternatives to invasive treatments. Farmhouse Fresh has taken this issue
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organic & wellness Wellness At Home
head-on with Mighty Tighty Turmeric & Banana Tightening Mask. The Mighty Tighty mask it true to its name with an “antioxidant-rich blend of turmeric, fresh bananas, and New York-grown echinacea extract full of active compounds that nourish skin” according to Natalie Aston, the International Trainer for FarmHouseFresh. Mighty Tighty contains “turmerones, found in turmeric oil that is extracted from the roots of turmeric, contain significant amounts of antioxidants that firm and tighten skin, reducing the look of fine lines. Plus, banana pulp and peel are rich in provitamin A, carotenoids, and phenolics that all function to rejuvenate the look of the complexion.” The result is a tingling sensation leading to a noticeable tightening and line-smoothing effect.
In speaking with Goldie Bonnell, a trainer for ESPA, she recommends the Overnight Hydration Therapy to treat the chest area. Goldie explained the Overnight Hydration Therapy “contains encapsulated lavender as it enhances skin replenishment and regeneration. Also, it has Hyaluronic Acid to boosts hydration and Chicory Root to stimulate Vitamin D and helps reinforce the skin’s natural barrier function all of which improves the overall appearance of the skin in the area,” so in this area more may be better. HAND TREATMENTS Instead of opting for the new hand injectables, there are treatments available to use at home. Laura Krohn is a massage therapist and esthetician with almost two decades of experience. Laura is the new Director of Spa and Wellness at Loma de Vida Spa and Wellness in San Antonio, TX. Laura shared she is on a self-declared “hand focus” to get rid of sun damage and aging discoloration. Like many, Laura noticed her hands have been neglected so it is a slow march to correction and that has now become a part of my nightly routine. Laura is a fan of Dr. Gross’s Alpha Beta Peel Pads, a single-use pad that provides a Glycolic and Salicylic for a ”one-two punch.” Even though Laura is focusing on hands with these pads as a primary area the pads can be used on the face and neck as they are “amazing for building collagen and lightening and brightening because of the gentle acids used.” Dr. Gross has three strengths for building intensity and results. If seeking something milder and warmer, Pathology has the “perfect ten” self-warming and softening hand mask which promises to have others asking if you are a “hand model” after use. In addition to the pads and mask, it is the actual product applied on a daily basis. As a long-time fan of organic products, Naturopathica, has been a favorite line and Lemon Verbena Omega-3 Hand Cream won’t disappoint. With key ingredients of Zesty Lemon Verbena and a blend of Chia Seeds, rich in Omega 3, it is easy to put your best hands forward, with the lines and signs of aging behind you. These are just a few products to treat those forgotten areas. The signs of aging don’t stop at our face and our regimen shouldn’t either. A focus on the neck, chest, and hand should become a part of our daily routine to give a youth and refreshed appearance.
Sherrie Tennessee is the Education Director of SpaSOS, where she conducts Spa Management, Wellness, CBD and Customer Service focused training. Sherrie is a licensed massage therapist, nail tech, spa owner, speaker, professor, educator, and author. She is currently completing a Ph.D. and holds a Master of Business Administration with a concentration in marketing and entrepreneurship. 64
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NEWS
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Famed Hungarian Facialist Launches New Product! Ildi Pekar created her water activated face polish with certified organic ingredients, including freshly ground Helichrysum, Chamomile and Cannabis. Everlasting Helichrysum flower is a great antioxidant that keeps the skin smooth, as well as helps to prevent and brighten age spots
Kissable Eco Lips! Ready to get rid of the flaky, winter buildup? The Lip Scrub line boasts delicious lip exfoliant option weather you prefer a jar or exfoliating stick. Organic, Fair Trade Certified™ sugar gently buffs away flaky, dry skin while organic coconut oil, olive oil and jojoba moisturize and protect
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OSEA’s V Cleanse! OSEA is known for their plant-based facial cleansers. As a female-founded brand, OSEA felt it was important to create a safe cleanser for our most intimate body parts. This gynecologist-tested formula includes prebiotics and a blend of botanicals to cleanse, soothe and hydrate.
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Farmhouse Fresh Watercress Hydration Cascade Replenish your skin in a long-lasting tide of daily hydration. This lightweight hyaluronic gelée will melt away on your skin and leave a radiant glow, rejuvenated look and the feel of a quenched complexion.
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What is
CLEAN BEAUTY? 68
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Highlights from the Clean Beauty Roundtable We’re all familiar with the terms “green,” “organic” and “natural,” but “clean” is nebulous. Sure, it sounds amazing, but what exactly makes a product, formulation or brand clean? To bring clarity, we sat down with four clean beauty pioneers: Greg Starkman, Founder and CEO of Innersense Organic Beauty, Indie Lee, Founder and CEO of Indie Lee & Co., Kristine Keheley, Co-Founder of Vapour Organic Beauty and Romain Gaillard, Owner and Founder of The Detox Market. American clean beauty brands face unique challenges in setting superior green standards. Unlike their European counterparts, the United States bans only 33 ingredients from cosmetics. That’s a far cry from the 1328 ingredients on the European Union’s no-go list. This marked gap illustrates what should define the clean space: a commitment to formulating products where there is no question of consumer safety, and efficacy and no-harm go hand in hand. Here’s some highlights from our direct, (and quite open!) discussion:
WHAT DOES CLEAN MEAN TO YOU? Kristine: Minimally processed organic in-
gredients enhanced by exciting new plant– based actives. There is a long list of “no’s” specific to each product type based on safety for humans and the environment. The standouts to me are that we do not allow FD&C pigments nor synthetic fragrance and we push for ideal luxury cosmetic performance. Perhaps most importantly we consider the entire chain of human and environmental health when we make an ingredient selection. We have been in the business of developing and formulating clean skincare and color for 20 years. We are committed to the effort involved in constant evolution as new solutions become possible. This desire to push boundaries is thrilling and challenging. It leads to innovation and meaning.
HOW CONCERNED SHOULD WE BE ABOUT WHAT WE PUT ON OUR SKIN? Indie: Extremely. Skin is your largest organ.
I learned the hard way. In 2008, I was diagnosed with a life-threatening brain tumor that doctors felt could be environmentally derived and attributed to something as simple as what I was putting on my skin. There are numerous studies showing that topical ingredients can stay in the system and cause long-term change. In the US, we have to be vigilant because, unlike the EU, the FDA takes an “innocent until proven guilty” approach to banning ingredients. It means brands and consumers need to be hyper-aware of the research so they are making the safest choices.
image What is Clean Beauty
WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES IN NOT HAVING A GOVERNING BODY IN THE US FOR THE TERM? Greg: Without governing standards, clean is a
subjective term and left to the brand to defend. This alone creates consumer confusion, leaving consumers frustrated. It also allows for brands to establish marketing positions and terms that are not validated. “Clean-washing” reduces the level of trust consumers have in the term “clean.” That makes it even more critical for brands to have radical transparency. Look out for brands that have “proprietary complexes and blends,” – it’s a way to hide ingredients in a vague umbrella term. It’s great when a product doesn’t have sulfates, parabens, silicone and phthalates, but those are just four to avoid. Consumers are getting educated and learning what ingredients to watch out for.
CAN SYNTHETIC INGREDIENTS ALSO BE CLEAN? Romain: Yes. Remember that clean is about safety. There
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are plenty of natural ingredients that are known allergens or can be toxic. We look at the science and evidence to show which ingredients are safe for consumers to use, whether the ingredients are natural or synthetic.
ARE CLEAN PRODUCTS AS EFFECTIVE AS THEIR COUNTERPARTS? Greg: Yes, and in some ways they are better. Green
chemistry is evolving as new ingredients emerge to further improve the performance of hair and skincare. Many consumers choose products that don’t fit the clean model simply because they are less expensive. The cleaner and greener a brand becomes, the more investigation, experimentation and evolution is required. The good news is that while it’s extremely hard work for the formulator, the result is not only safe to use but proven to be effective.
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Clean beauty is still a bit like the wild west, which is why we need leaders who are committed to transparency – what goes into the products, why the decisions were made and what you can expect as a consumer. There’s no question that clean is here to stay, and Innersense Organic Beauty, Indie Lee, Vapour and The Detox Market have shown that going clean is not only a smart choice for your health, but a decision based on shared values.
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NEWS
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Cocoa Kiss! Are your clients craving plantbased lip products? Try Grafton Private Label Cosmetics Hemp Lip Gloss made with plantbased organic ingredients and a delicious cocoa scent! graftoncosmetics.com
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The Ultimate Brow Duo! See Brow King Nicck Townsend this month at ICES Philadelphia! Don’t miss your chance to pick up his Browscript Pencil Duo. niccktownsend.com
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Cute Sets from Crown PRO This Valentine's set comes with 3 Crown Pro eyeshadow pods, 1 Crown lip gloss, and 1 Crown Makeup brush Set which is cruelty free and 100% Vegan friendly! crownbrush.com
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Page Number
45................. Advanced Esthetics / Adonyss........................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 76................. Altair Instruments..............................................................................................................altairinstruments.com 43................. AW Advanced Aesthetic Training................................................................................ awaesthetictraining.com 44................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics................................................................................. beauinstitute.com 64................. Bio France Lab........................................................................................................................ biofrancelab.com 5................... Celluma......................................................................................................................................biophotas.com 70.................Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc................................................................................................................dr-jeff.com 37................. Dermaware............................................................................................................................... dermaware.com 2,3................ Eminence Organic Skin Care.........................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 75................. Equipro USA............................................................................................................................ equipro-bty.com 9................... G.M. Collin Skin Care................................................................................................................... gmcollin.com 63................. Grande Cosmetics............................................................................................................... grandelashmd.com 48................. Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................................................................... halecosmeceuticals.com 15................. Hawrych MD Lash.............................................................................................................. hawrychmdlash.com 31.................Hempfield Botanicals....................................................................................................hempfielbotanicals.com 35, 65........... Jexko.................................................................................................................................................Jexko.com 20................. Marine Agency.....................................................................................................................marineagency.com 27................. Merry Laz Aesthetics USA............................................................................................................. merrylaz.com 22, 23........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia............................................Philadelphia.skincareshows.com 58, 59........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas................................................................Dallas.skincareshows.com 73................. Rejuvi Laboratory.......................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 55................. Repêchage.................................................................................................................................repechage.com 13................. Shira Cosmetics.................................................................................................................... shiraesthetics.com 57................. Silhouet Tone USA LTD........................................................................................................... silhouettone.com 14................. Skin Accents.............................................................................................................................skinaccents.com 51................. Sorella Apothecary......................................................................................................... sorellaapothecary.com 7................... Sothys USA................................................................................................................................ sothys-usa.com 67................. Tizo by Fallene.............................................................................................................................tizofusion.com 19................. Viktoria Dé Ann.................................................................................................................... viktoriadeann.com 49................. Rejuvenate by Virox Technologies........................................................................RejuvenateDisinfectants.com 29................. Vitelle Labs.................................................................................................................................. vitellelab.com *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
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