LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals December 2020
$7.50
Elevate your treatment. Experience and deliver rapid results with three new formulas crafted with potent botanicals and infused with powerful gemstones.
Bring positivity your way and reveal balanced, energized, glowing skin.
The
GEMSTONE
COLLECTION E N E RGI Z E YOU R SK I N C AR E OF F E R I NGS
87%
of users experienced a healthier looking skin glow*
Transforms into a fluffy mousse
To discover the Gemstone Collection or learn more about partnering with Éminence, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit: www.eminenceorganics.com. *Associated with a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss after 21 days of twice daily application
FROM THE
EDITOR
Just like that, the year has come to an end! It was, without a doubt, a difficult one for many in our industry. Nevertheless, we have always been resilient and strong, and this experience has made us stronger than ever. Beauty may be in the eye of the beholder, but one thing is sure. Beauty and Wellness trends are rising, with more and more consumers valuing and recognizing the importance of selfcare. The appreciation for estheticians and spa professionals is profoundly evident, and I believe we will see it more and more in the years to come. As we wrap up the year, we wanted to provide you all with a Year-End Business Guide to analyze your previous year and set before
after
new growth goals for your next! Spa Business Coach Kirsten Foss has created a super easy, organized checklist to get you started. Our Marketing Director Mika is sharing the best tips for defining goals and committing to them. The end of the year is always fun! Projecting trends and seeing new advancements in skincare is a reminder of how far we’ve come and how far we’ll go as an industry! Check out what our contributers see trending for 2021. What are you most excited to see? This month, we emphasize continuing education opportunities for you to further your growth as professionals. I hope you all become inspired and motivated to take the lead in your careers! Thank you so much for such an amazing first year as Editor! This industry is such a welcoming community, and I am pleased to be a part of it. Happy New Year!
Managing Editor
samantha@LNEonline.com 4
December2020
LNEonline.com
November volume 35 number 12
contents 4
46
Advertiser Index
10 Into the Light
32
Year-End Review
13 Skin News
36
Goal Setter, Goal Getter
38
2021 Trends in Skincare
guide
From the Editor 2021 Trend Predictions from the Experts!
skin
42
31 Year-End Business Guide
16
Spa of the Month
44
The Gua Sha Facial
20
Spa News
47
Organic & Wellness News
16 Spa of the Month
44 The Gua Sha Facial
22
Certified Beauty
48
Make Your Mark
26
The Year of Lemonade
50
Image News
28
Beauty Bulletin
29
Business News
30
#esty2esty
22 Certified Beauty
image
business
spa
o&w
10 Into the Light
48 Make Your Mark
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
6
December2020
LNEonline.com
NEW
VITAL C15 SERUM FORMULATED WITH
15% OF EXCLUSIVE VITAL C COMPLEX
IMPROVED SKIN TEXTURE compared to a leading competitor product
Before
* Clinical study on 60 women (avg. age 50.4 years old), all skin types. The efficacy and tolerance were tested on day 0, 14 and 28. Performed by Lab. Dermo-Cosmetik (G.M. Collin) on site. Individual results may vary.
5X more
*
After 14 days
WWW.GMCOLLIN.COM
3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com
Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Samantha Garcia samantha@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Director of Conferences & Events Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com
International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Patrick Johnson Samantha Garcia Kara McLucas Mark Kirsten Foss
Mika Diaz Cecily Braden Beke Beau
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
8
December2020
LNEonline.com
skin Into the Light
INTO
LIGHT
the
The evolution and future of LED Light Therapy by Patrick Johnson CEO, BioPhotas
10
December2020
LNEonline.com
skin Into the Light
In the concluding sentence of their compendium on the clinical benefits of LowLevel Light Therapy (LLLT), researchers at the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital and Harvard Medical School’s Department of Dermatology noted that… “The day may not be far off when most homes will have a light source (most likely a LED device) to be used for aches, pains, cuts, bruises, joints, and which can also be applied to the hair and even transcranially to the brain. These researchers went on to state . . . “Advances in design and manufacturing of LLLT devices in the years to come will continue to widen the acceptability and increase adoption of the therapy among the medical profession, physical therapists, and the general public.”[1] However, before discussing the future of Low Level Light Therapy, and more specifically the use of LED devices in aesthetics, it is important to understand the biochemical mechanism of actions of LLLT and the history of its commercialization over the past two decades.
Acne Vulgaris While LASERs and lamp-based light devices have historically been used to treat acne using a thermal mechanism of action, the LED system utilizes the mechanism of endogenous photodynamic therapy where bacterial porphyrins are produced as part of the normal metabolism of P. acnes and act as natural photosensitizers. When they absorb light, preferably wavelengths in the Blue and Red-light range, the resultant photodynamic reaction produces singlet oxygen species and reactive free radicals, which destroy the bacteria themselves. Essentially, the P. acne bacteria commit suicide.
Skin Rejuvenation Fibroblast cells are responsible for producing collagen and elastin, proteins key to good skin health. As we age, fibroblast cells’ ability to produce these proteins becomes compromised, resulting in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in the skin. In photodamaged human skin, collagen synthesis is reduced with a concomitant elevation of matrix MMP-1 expression.
“Hence, a possible strategy for treating and preventing the clinical manifestations of skin aging is the restoration of the collagen deficiency by the induction of new collagen synthesis and reduction of [matrix metalloproteinase] MMP[2].” LED devices emitting energy in the Red to Near-Infrared regions of the spectrum have demonstrated in in-vitro, animal, and human clinical studies that LED light therapy can trigger skin collagen synthesis with a concurrent reduction in MMP. A significant increase in collagen production with concurrent MMP-1 reduction has been seen in association with improved appearance of photo-damaged skin.
Dermal Wound Healing LED light therapy has also been shown to accelerate tissue repair, decrease wound size, and accelerate wound closure as well as other beneficial effects. The mechanisms associated with this process have been well characterized both at the in vitro and in vivo level. These mechanisms have been demonstrated to promote dermal wound healing and reduce the pain associated with the healing process.
History of Commercialization Late in the last century, British physicist and researcher, Dr. Colin Whitehurst at the Patterson Institute in Manchester, spent more than five years developing an arc light device for the treatment of basal cell carcinomas and squamous cell carcinomas. Photodynamic Therapy, or PDT for short, involves the pre-treatment of the target area with a photosensitive medication that is activated by light energy. Early in this century, Dr. Whitehurst’s research and his arc light device became the foundation for Manchester-based Photo Therapeutics Ltd and the development of the OmniLux Light therapy device. The OmniLux device had the distinction of being the first to be FDA-cleared for treating a variety of skin conditions. Substituting the arc light technology for newly developed Light Emitting Diodes or LEDs, Photo Therapeutics, as one might expect given its history, introduced mono-
LNEonline.com
December2020
11
skin Into the Light chromatic or single wavelength devices, in the Blue, Red and Near-Infrared light spectrum. Recognizing that the mechanism of action at play in LLLT is triggered by multiple wavelengths of light energy, at different depths in tissue, and that LLLT did not require a precisely controlled delivery of light energy at peak absorption levels, light therapy manufactures realized that the efficacy of LLLT could be increased by delivering multiple wavelengths simultaneously. More specifically, delivering multiple wavelengths simultaneously would allow for the treatment of different cell types at varying depths of tissue at the same time.
The Future of LED Light Therapy With a comprehensive understanding of the biochemistry and evolution of LED light therapy, we can now consider what the future has in store for us with LED light therapy. It’s reasonably unlikely that the fundamental biochemistry of Low-Level Light Therapy will change much in the future. While additional mechanisms-of action may be uncovered, the clinical benefits of LED light therapy will continue to be the antibacterial effects in treating acne and the upregulation of collagen production in countering the effects of aging and sun damage on the skin, as well as the increase in cell proliferation and cell migration in accelerating the closure of dermal wounds. Based on the same mechanism of action, LED light therapy can be effective in hair restoration and has been broadly proven effective in musculoskeletal pain management, including the treatment of rheumatoid and osteoarthrosis. The Wellman Center at Harvard University is also conducting extensive research on neuro-stimulation and treatment of conditions such as Parkinson’s, Alzheimer’s, and Traumatic Brain Injuries with promising initial results. “LLLT is steadily moving into mainstream medical practice. As the Western populations continue to age, the incidence 12
December2020
of the degenerative diseases of old age will only continue to increase and produce an ever more severe financial and societal burden. Moreover, the particular benefits of LLLT to both the central and peripheral nervous systems suggest that much wider use of LLLT could or should be made in cases of both brain diseases and injuries.” Dr. David Barolet has conducted research on LED light therapy to prevent sunburn. “The purpose of this pilot study was to test the potential of nonthermal pulsed light-emitting diode (LED) treatments (660 nm) prior to UV exposure in the induction of a state of cellular resistance against UV-induced erythema. Results suggest that LEDbased therapy prior to UV exposure provided significant protection against UV-B induced erythema. The induction of cellular resistance to UV insults may possibly be explained by the induction of a state a natural resistance to the skin via specific cell signaling pathways and without the drawbacks and limitations of traditional sunscreens.” From a practical perspective, LED devices are becoming more versatile and easier to use on any part of the body. As Michael Hamblin, PhD. notes, “The introduction of affordable LED devices powered by rechargeable batteries will lead to many home-use applications of LLLT. The concept of “wearable” light sources is not far off[6].” One of the ways LED devices are becoming more affordable and more effective is by the use of flexible circuit boards, which allow devices to closely contour to the body part being treated, a key to efficacy. By moving light emission closer to the surface of the skin, the devices do not have to be as powerful, thereby reducing the cost of the device. Gone are the days of paying $10,000, $15,000 or $25,000 for an effective light therapy device. Marketleading devices can now be purchased for less than $1,500. Devices are also being configured in different shapes and sizes ideally suited for the primary use of the device, whether that be a “spot treatment”,
LNEonline.com
tended over the face, wrapped around an extremity, or treating the full body. And instead of having a “LED bed” taking up an entire treatment room, large full-body LED devices can lay on the client like a heavy blanket and then put away between uses. Flexible electronic circuitry makes LED devices more user-friendly, making them more reliable and longer-lasting. As the fundamental clinical benefit of LED therapy is the reduction of inflammation and the increase in micro-circulation, and ultimately cellular healing, the potential applications for LED light therapy devices are practically endless, particularly when the devices can be tailored to a specific body application. As inflammation is at the root of most things that ail us, having an LED device is a must for the beauty and medical aesthetic professional, to speak nothing of every household in the world.
[1]The Nuts and Bolts of Low Level Light Therapy, Hamblin et al., 2011 [2] LEDs in Dermatology, D. Barolet, et al. [3] Spitler R. 2015, 2015 [4] Esmaeeli D.G. 2011 [5] Kumar A. 2015 [6] Role of Low-Level Laser Therapy in Neurorehabilitation, Hamblin, et.al.
Patrick Johnson is the CEO & President of BioPhotas Inc., and the inventor of the award-winning Celluma Series of Light Therapy devices. With an extensive background in the medical device industry, Patrick saw the potential for bringing the significant therapeutic benefits of Low Level Light Therapy affordably to the masses, leading to the founding of BioPhotas. Prior to BioPhotas, his leadership experience includes 10 years with Pro-Dex, Inc., a publicly held medical device manufacturer, serving in the roles of Chief Business Development Officer, CEO and President, and Board Member.
Skin
1
Vital C15 Serum from G.M. Collin
NEWS 2
Designed for all skin types, this 15 % Vital C Complex ensures a visibily brighter and more luminous complexion. It is formulated with a powerful combination of Vitamin C, ferulic acid, antioxidants, globularia cordifolia extract, PeptideQ10TM, and MatrixylÂŽ3000 to attenuate signs of aging, even out skin tone, and improve skin vitality.
BiOn Research’s Mint Mask Delight in the smell of peppermint this Holiday with the Mint Mask, an excellent mask for acne. It dissolves excess oil and removes surface dead cell build-up, impurities, and pore blockage while promoting antibacterial effects. You can help your clients achieve a clear and smooth complexion this new year!
bionresearch.com
gmcollin.com
3
The Arctic Cranberry Facial from Skin Script This wintery facial includes a delicious arctic cranberry enzyme for an extreme lightening and anti-aging facial, and a cooling wintermint hydrating mask to help your clients chill out and relax post Holiday shopping.
skinscriptrx.com
4
Hydrating Essentials from Image Skincare Give your clients the gift of hydration! This esthetician-curated gift set contains Vital C cleanser, Vital C anti-aging serum, and SPF with Digital Aging Defense. This set is perfect for all skin types, especially dry, dull, dehydrated skin.
imageskincare.com
LNEonline.com
December2020
13
spa Spa Of The Month
The Spa at The Woodstock Inn & Resort
Celebrating 10 years of light, nature, and harmony by Samantha Garcia 14
December2020
LNEonline.com
spa Spa Of The Month
From hiking and garden classes to culinary classes and cross-country skiing, there is plenty of adventure to experience in and around the Woodstock Inn & Resort located in Woodstock, Vermont. Guests are promised a classic resort experience for timeless elegance, and what would that be without a luxurious spa? The LEED-certified, 10,000 square-foot Forbes 4-Star Spa is designed to bring tranquility and rejuvenation to every guest’s stay so that they leave with the feeling of being pampered. This year the Woodstock Inn & Resort celebrates the 10th anniversary of its spa. “Since the spa first opened its doors in 2010, the treatments and amenities have remained at the forefront of industry technology to continually provide elevated experiences to guests,” says Spa Director Khim Neang.
SPA OF THE MONTH
Signature Treatment The spa’s most popular treatment is the Body Melt Back Therapy. It begins with an opening ritual of inhalation breath with arnica oil, and then an invigorating deep tissue massage using Russian sports techniques. The massage is performed with Naturopathica’s arnica oil and gel to reduce inflammation. A heat pack is placed on the guest’s back to further relax the muscles, while the legs are massaged with arnica oil to induce a deeper state of relaxation. Guests are then turned over to enjoy a therapeutic neck massage. “After the neck massage, a warm neck wrap is placed under their neck and an eye pillow for their eyes while the rest of the full body massage is completed,” says Neang. The experience ends with hot towels on the feet, as guests melt away on the treatment table.
Marketing The Woodstock Inn & Resort is positioned as Vermont’s most beautiful address online. The charming destination is showcased for its elegance and natural beauty, with lush and vibrant trees surrounding the white picket property. The spa has it’s very own Instagram featuring its chic decor, organic skincare products, delicious lunches, inviting pool, and last but certainly not least, the Vermont-inspired treatments. “The spa is part of the Woodstock Inn & Resort where we have a database of travelers that wish to and have traveled to Vermont. We market to this list with spa packages and spa experiences so when they are dreaming of a Vermont getaway, they can also dream of a spa experience,” says Neang. The spa has an aggressive digital marketing campaign, as well as social media, print, and other PR initiatives that target people interested in high-end travel and spa experiences.
Training At the Spa at the Woodstock Inn & Resort, new staff members go through thorough training. “Staff are trained on new treatments and required to be checked off on new services before they can perform on guests. We have standard operating procedures for pretty much everything to ensure that our training and message are consistent,” says Neang. Staff members’ performance are reviewed annually, and individualized goals are set depending on the therapist. Every staff member receives discounts for both retail and spa treatments. “Our compensation program is very competitive. It’s a great environment to work in. We support and take care of each other,” says Neang.
LNEonline.com
December2020
15
spa Spa Of The Month
16
Special Events and Promotions
Revenue and Retail
The spa offers seasonal treatments to reflect the changing seasons of Vermont and hosts an annual open house event every year to set the mood for the Holiday season. While the event is unable to happen this year due to the virus, the spa will still be celebrating its 10th anniversary by offering featured treatment and services, monthly Instagram giveaways, and special events from now through August 2021. The spa will also be partnering with vendors in mini-events. The spa also captures the essence of Vermont by partnering with local vendors in both the interior design and retail of the spa. “For interior design, we partner with Simon Pearce, world-renowned Vermont-based glassmaker who created hand-blown lights for the Spa’s Great Room designed by Asfour Guzy Architects. We also partner with Farmhouse Pottery, based in Woodstock, VT. They custom-built the farmhouse table in the great room from New England Ash and handmade pottery bowls throughout the spa,” explains Neang.
As for retail, the spa sells candles from Farmhouse Pottery and other local vendors like Flourish Natural Body Care and Pick Herbals. “The spa is committed to using products with responsible environmental ethics: recycled materials used for packaging and organic ingredients. All products are free of parabens, dyes, and synthetic fragrances,” says Neang. Some of the spa’s retail lines include a vitamin-based facial line called EmerginC, and a facial line using pure plant-based products called Naturopathica. FarmHouse Fresh is also used for the spa’s body treatments
December2020
Rundown Woodstock Inn & Resort 14 The Green, Woodstock, VT 05091 802.457.6697 Opened: September 2010 Amenities: Eucalyptus steam room, shaker wood stoves, indoor and outdoor heated floors, ten treatment rooms each with their own windows,
LNEonline.com
an oversized couples massage suite, and an outdoor courtyard designed for meditation.
Spa Director Spotlight Khim Neang is a highly effective management professional with more than fifteen years of experience in Human Resources and Wellness. Most recently, she was the Spa and Health Club Director at the Heritage Hotel Golf, Spa, and Conference Center in Southbury, CT. Before that, she was the Spa and Salon Director at Green Tangerine Spa and Salon in Canton, CT. Neang also spent five years as the Spa Operations Manager at the Mayflower Inn and Spa in Washington, CT, and six years as a Massage Manager at Canyon Ranch in Lenox, MA. “Always serve and lead from your heart and everything else will organically work itself out. Find meaningful work and do it with passion. Everyone can use the gift of touch,” she says.
THE SAFER CHOICE
Hair Removal
FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIR REMOVAL
Nufree® is a non-wax hair removal process that will remove hair from any part of the body—virtually pain-free. Because Nufree® isn’t a wax, clients won’t experience the pain, redness, or swelling that often happens with wax-based products. Scientifically tested, Nufree® is a self-preserving antibacterial and antimicrobial, ensuring that it’s both safe and effective. Nufree® is so gentle that clients can apply makeup, swim, and tan once finipil® has been applied after their treatment. finipil® our patented* and FDA registered antiseptic lotion kills 99.999% of germs, cools, soothes, and protects the skin from ingrown hairs and irritation! nufree-professionals.com
@nufreefinipil
Complete Hair Removal Kit Purchase a 6 oz. Nufree Kit for only $87.99 *Additional Kits Available! Visit our website.
•
I
N O AN
B Y PR O C TS
•
REGISTERED
AL
DU
M
©2020 Equibal Inc. Made in USA *US Patent Nos. 8,603,550; 8,951,582 and 8,951,583 DIN: 02470853 DIN: 02481480
Spa
NEWS
1
HAMMAM Massage Table from Equipro This portable, multi-function massage table will allow you to visit your customers in the comfort of their home for private treatments. It can be used for therapeutic massage, facial, body treatment and depilation. It is extremely easy to set up, with the option to adjust the backrest and the height of the table (carrying case included).
(877) 324-2226 or
2
equipro-bty.com
Nufree Nudesse from Equibal Labs Nufree Nudesse is a non-wax, self-preserving antibacterial and antimicrobial hair removal. Safe for the entire body. It is low temperature, removes the entire hair, and can be reapplied. Professional only for 40 years!
equibal.com
3
The Holiday Gentlemen’s Collection from GlyMed Plus Built with simplicity in mind, this powerful men’s kit gets the job done! It is composed of products that are ideal for thoroughly cleansing the skin while infusing it with regenerative antioxidants.
glymedplus.io
18
December2020
LNEonline.com
4
Radiance from Bio France Lab A highly concentrated, oil-free serum that combats dark spots, evens skin tone, and boosts radiance. Organic Seaweed Extract actively increases the moisture barrier of the skin while the natural Limon Citric Extract and Multi salt combination exfoliate and brighten.
biofrancelab.com
LNEonline.com
December2020
19
business Certified Beauty
CERTIFIED BEAUTY Further Education opportunities for the esthetician and spa professional by Kara Mc-Lucas Mark
20
December2020
LNEonline.com
D
business Certified Beauty
The field of esthetics is evolving, with a projected growth of almost 12% by 2028. Estheticians are becoming more in demand as medical spa and skincare becomes more and more specified. Esthetic training programs range from 600-1000 hours with a mixture of clinical didactics and hands-on learning. The majority of programs cover basic skin physiology and histology while focusing on the information and skills need to pass the final exam and state boards. So, what is there after school? What further education is there for estheticians? The list may be larger than you think, and that list is ever-growing.
DEFINING YOUR IDEAL ROLE One of the first decisions one needs to make, is what type of esthetician do you want to be? Do you want to be more spa minded, cosmetic focused, or clinical oriented? Esthetician’s that work in the spa tend to have skills more focused on relaxation, restorative, and/ or self-care-based treatments. The cosmetic side does more make-up, eyelash services, and permanent make-up techniques. While the clinical esthetician tends to more in a doctor’s office setting or medical spa, providing more advanced procedures with different modalities. Narrowing down your ideal setting and what procedures interest you can make finding programs to further your knowledge a little easier. You must also take into consideration what limitations the state board has for the esthetician’s scope of practice. Here are some further education opportunities worth exploring.
DERMAPLANING Dermaplaning is a great place to start for additional certifications. Dermaplaning is the procedure of exfoliation by removing dead skin cells and vellus hair to create a smooth can-
vas for most peels, facials, and masks. It also has great anti-aging benefits because of this exfoliation that allows for deeper penetration of products. It is done either dry or with a specially formulated oil with a scalpel blade that had been engineered to be gentler and not as sharp. Dermaplaning courses are done either in a group setting or individually. The trainee must complete theory course work either at the class or on their own time. The coursework covers the benefits, safety, and how to add dermaplaning to procedures. Keep in mind that some training courses are geared towards their specific skincare line and facial protocols and may include instruction on these points. These trainings may happen in a group or individually, but they also can be done via virtual class. Once certified the esthetician may begin to add this beneficial service to most facials.
MICRONEEDLING Microneedling is also a great, commonly used certification to add to one’s resume. Microneedling is a form of collagen induction therapy that is done via a pen-like device with specialized needles. These needles penetrate the skin and create a wound healing response. Collagen and elastin amp up their production and the client is left with plump, glowing skin. It is very useful in the treatment of acne scars, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkle reduction. Most states allow estheticians to use microneedling devices as long as the needles are no longer than 0.3mm and the devices make no medical claims, though be sure to check your state guidelines before investing in any certifications.
LNEonline.com
December2020
21
business Certified Beauty
Narrowing down your ideal setting and what procedures interest you can make finding programs to further your knowledge a little easier There is a small amount of superficial bleeding involved with the facial, so it is important to also have knowledge of bodily fluid precautions and clean up and to be sure one isn’t queasy at the sight of blood. Courses for microneedling certification can be found mainly through manufacturers. Generally, the course work covers the clinical uses of microneedling, clinical training, understanding product usage alongside microneedling, and contraindications. Microneedling training can range from $295- $1,300 depending on the device and training program you go through. It can be done in as little as 4 days or longer depending on the speed at which you learn. This is one certification where it is important to do research on the device pens to see what the disposable cost is per treatment to then determine how lucrative using that pen may be. Some programs just give generalized instruction to any variety of devices and you may be responsible for purchasing your own.
Chemical Peels Chemical peels are another advanced certification that estheticians can get. Chemical peels are a type of deeper exfoliation that utilize higher concentrations of AHA acids or BHA acids. They work by breaking down the bonds between the desmosomes of skin cells. Peels are great at treating wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, scarring, and for getting a refreshed glow. Most peels are applied up to the third layer of skin, stratum granulosum, depending on the client’s experience with peels or what the client’s overall goal is. Most training for chemical peels is done through the manufacturer’s train22
December2020
ing or in spa training depending on the certification required by the state you are practicing. Most esthetics licenses allow one to practice on the epidermal layer but have heavier restrictions on dermal level treatments. These continuing education courses cover peel efficacy, safety, application, as well as a refresher on skin types and layers of the skin. The cost of training varies from $100-$250 for just a basic course. Training through manufacturers of chemical peels will be focused on using the products they distribute but can potentially still be applicable if using a different product line. If going through a manufacturer training site be sure to pick a company that is widely used and with great results. Peels are not only great as a stand-alone but as a complement to microdermabrasion.
Microdermabrasion What is microdermabrasion? It is the use of fine sand-like particles to exfoliate and refine the face. It is a great treatment for wrinkles, scarring, and hyperpigmentation. It provides a smooth surface that has greater penetrability for serums, peels, or ampoules. Estheticians can get microdermabrasion certification with either on the job training or in a group setting. The certification course covers the mechanics of the machine, contraindications, bundling treatments, and the safety of the machine. Depending on the depth of training the certification cost can range from $21-$100. It is also worth noting that some states do not require any type of further certification for this procedure so it is best to check in with your board to see if you would need any type of formal training.
LNEonline.com
Master Esthetician If any of these certifications are of interest it is worth noting that some states offer a “master esthetician” license. At the moment Utah, Virginia, Washington, and D.C. are the only areas that offer this two-tier licensing. This program would be better geared to the esthetician looking to work in a more clinical setting. All previously mentioned certifications, as well as lymphatic drainage, light therapies, pre and post-operative care, and radiofrequency treatments are taught within the course. The course length ranges from 450-600 hours with some requiring a minimum of 15 weeks within the program. The cost of the schooling can range from $9,500 to upwards of $15,000 depending on the chosen school. Estheticians have ample opportunity for advancing their education with procedural certifications. The internet, previous or current esthetics teachers, and certain publications are all great resources for locating further education programs and opportunities. Remember that these certifications vary greatly in cost from as little as $20 up to thousands of dollars for more advanced certifications and licensures. Be sure to speak with employers or potential employers about assisting with cost or to see if they provide training at no cost to you. Lastly, when considering further education opportunities be sure to check your licensing limitations through your state board. Each state has its own set of regulations and restrictions governing what procedures you can and cannot do based on your licensing.
Kara McLucas-Mark is a licensed esthetician with a medical focus. She has worked with multiple modalities including non-ablative lasers, microcurrent, ultrasound skin tightening, and radiofrequency machines. She lives with her husband and two dogs outside of Annapolis, MD. She loves learning about new skin developments, her LED light, and jade roller!
PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE. F O R T H E E ST H E T I C I A N , BY T H E E ST H E T I C I A N . F E E D YO U R S K I N , T R E AT YO U R S O U L . IF YOU’ RE I NT E R E ST E D I N PA R T NE R I NG W IT H S O RE L L A A PO T H E C A RY, PL E A S E RE AC H O U T TO T H E F O L LOWI NG :
hello@sorellaapothecary.com www.sorellaapothecary.com 1.800.253.0450
LNEonline.com
December2020
23
business The Year of Lemonade
THE YEAR OF LEMONADE Why selling branded skincare products in your spa is a good idea by Aleks Vranicic
When life gives you a lemon, make lemonade! I think we can all agree that 2020 has served the world a massive lemon. State shutdowns have forced businesses to close, and sadly some will never reopen. The service industry has been one of the most impacted by the shutdowns. Still, there are opportunities that come from major disruption.Those creative enough to recognize those opportunities are making various lemonade flavors from the lemons they have been served. Good entrepreneurs and savvy business people virtually always find a way to make even the worst situations work. Here are my thoughts on the best lemonade you could make right now.
24
December2020
LNEonline.com
business The Year of Lemonade
SURVIVAL MODE When the shutdowns started last March, online sales spiked. According to SAP Commerce Cloud Customer Systems Insights, e-commerce sales were 63.6% higher in 2020 than in 2019. Spas that had an online presence and ecommerce capabilities have weathered the storm better since they could shift their sales focus to product sales when they could not provide in-person service. Since e-commerce was their primary revenue source, spa owners were made to transform their business model online. Spas that did not have an online presence struggled as they were not creating any revenue that would have been needed to invest in digital technology to build an online business model. Unfortunately, many of those spas have closed their doors for good. The spas that already had e-commerce capabilities had to improve their product selections to better merchandise online. If they were licensed to sell national skincare brands, they competed with hundreds or thousands of websites selling the same national brands at discounted prices. This strategy is a race to the bottom of who can sell the product the cheapest. It is not sustainable for creating value or profits for a business. The spas that did not have an online store had a significant disadvantage as they now had to catch up, create an eCommerce site, and build an online presence so customers could find them.
When you sell your own brand of products, you also get to make all the decisions. You decide the sale price instead of a national brand where the MSRP price is set for you. Should you want more profit than the retail price bears, there are no ways to really generate it without creating additional value separate from the product. Traditionally, the additional value came from the spa service you provided, but unfortunately, many of those services are severely limited during a shelter in place mandate. Once this lemon of a situation passes and the service side of our industry is able to operate again, you can be in a better situation to reward those that work with you. This is one of the joys a business owner experiences. How do top companies attract top performers? They offer higher pay and better benefits. Wouldn’t it be a game changer to pay higher sale commissions? The industry standard is a whopping 10% commission on retail sales, which doesn’t really scream motivational incentive. But, if you had your own brand and could set your MSRP, you could potentially pay 15%, 20%, 25% or even a 30% commission on retail sales and still have a healthy bottom line.
HOW TO GET STARTED If the concept of having your own brand is starting to sound appealing, you will have joined the growing population of skincare professionals that feel the same way. Getting started is as easy as doing an online search for “private label skincare.” Some companies offer affordable getting started programs so that you could be up and running for as little as $500. It’s incredible how a single decision can produce so much potential. It’s possible to be in control of your product sales and improve your bottom line. It’s possible to attract top staff and reward them with better pay so they help you grow. So, what are you waiting for?
Aleks Vranicic is VP of Sales and Technical Training at Vitelle Labs. A third generation Esthetician, Aleks has many years of handson experience in skin care marketing, product branding, sales and the treatment room. As a seasoned business mentor and trainer, he has worked with many well-known professional Medical and Esthetic practices in North America and beyond. His popular business focused seminars have helped many skin care professionals take their business to the next level.
AN ATTRACTIVE SOLUTION To make lemons into lemonade, consider the following. You can sell highly competitive national skincare brands online at the lowest price to compete with other sellers, or you can build equity in your business by selling your unique skin care, makeup, or body line. You see, when you sell someone else’s brand, you are growing their company and their equity, but when you sell your own brand, not only are you making a profit from the sale, but you’re also creating equity in your business by having products that carry your brand. LNEonline.com
December2020
25
BEAUTY BULLETIN BOARD Further your growth with these educational opportunities! Skincare Ingredients: At a Glance Flashcards from Skin Script This simple-yet-effective set of flashcards contains 70 cards that survey botanical ingredients, peptides, synthetic molecules and their functions.These flashcards will enrich your existing ingredient knowledge and be a foundation upon which to build your aesthetic vocabulary! www.skinscriptrx.com
Learn from Industry Experts at ICES Digital Destination Download the ICES Show app and watch exclusive lectures and demos from the most influential industry experts, like Nerida Joy and Kelley Baker! PLUS, learn more about your favorite skincare products from premier exhibitors! lneonline.com
Step up your Sanitation with VIROX Online Tool! How, where and when to disinfect high-touch surfaces, equipment and devices is not as intuitive as wearing a mask, hand sanitizing or maintaining social distancing,” says Nicole Kenny, VP of Professional and Technical Services at Virox Technologies. Virox’s online tool is a much-needed resource that simplifies disinfection by pinpointing at-risk areas and providing step by step instructions to eliminate viruses and bacteria in their tracks. LearnAboutRejuvenate.com
NEW Scholarship Opportunity at National Laser Institute National Laser Institute is the largest and most prestigious medical aesthetics training facility in North America! The purpose of this scholarship is to help students affected by the economy by reducing the cost of tuition. You can choose from the school’s in-person handson clinical program or complete the experience online from the comfort of your home!
Full-Day & Half-Day Seminars at G.M. Collin From Skin Diagnostics to Receptionist Training, G.M. Collin is offering full-day and half-day seminars to help you increase your knowledge and better your skills. You can learn everything from today’s aging factors to business analysis for spa owners and managers. The opportunities are endless! gmcollin.com 26
December2020
LNEonline.com
Business
NEWS The HydraFacial Company Partners with Circadia Globally! The HydraFacial™ Company announced they have extended their partnership globally, offering the Chrono-Peptide Booster and ProTec Plus Booster to HydraFacial providers in over 40 countries. "Combining the powerful skin care offerings of Circadia with our innovative technologies allows HydraFacial providers the opportunity to customize their treatments for even more skin types," said Clint Carnell, Chief Executive Office of The HydraFacial Company.
hydrafacial.com
Amazing Lash Studio Welcomes New CEO, Stephanie Hu Amazing Lash Studio is pleased to announce that Stephanie Hu has been promoted to Chief Executive Officer of the company. Stephanie will oversee Amazing Lash Studio’s new Amazing Brow services launch, as well as the Raise Some Brows product collection, along with the brand’s 240 studios across 25 states.
amazinglashstudio.com
LNEonline.com
December2020
27
esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! Happy Holiday Estys! We hope you all are staying busy as clients come rolling in before their Holiday celebrations! This time of year is always exciting to see how creative you are with your spa menus and marketing efforts. Peppermint facials and gift sets for your clients are just a few ways to take advantage of the festive spirit. Now is the time • Our Editor, Samantha, getting a
lash lift at Face Brow & Beauty Bar in Miami. “These lashes really open up my eyes. I wake up every morning fresh-faced and beautiful,” she says!
• Drive Holiday sales & traffic in the spa with social! Check out our latest blog online!
to stand out and show appreciation for your existing clientele. Thank you cards, and special promotions can go a long way! It is also a great time to celebrate your staff and all of your business successes! Tag us on Instagram @EstheticianEdit on all of your Holiday specials and events for a chance to be featured. PLUS, we have a very special Holiday giveaway of our own that you don’t want to miss!
• Marketing Mika receiving a Glowing Facial at Habit Skin Lab! These estys take it beyond beauty and are all about forming good habits on the inside and out.
• Follow us on Instagram for our Holiday Giveaway! We’re giving away some of Esthetician Edit’s favorite product picks of the year!
Follow 28
December2020
@estheticianedit
LNEonline.com
Year-End Business Guide Tracking performance and setting goals
LNEonline.com
December2020
29
Year-End Business Guide
Year-End Review The ultimate checklist for spa teams and solo estheticians by Kirsten Foss
Spa business coach Kirsten Foss of Kirsten Foss Coaching is here to emphasize why looking back on the last year of your spa business is the only way to determine a clear, strong, and relevant growth initiative that will support your spa business in 2021. Otherwise, you could be making decisions that waste time, energy, and money! The biggest pitfall Kirsten sees while coaching spa business owners?
30
December2020
LNEonline.com
Year-End Business Guide
“What I notice the most about spa owners who sit down for yearly planning days is that they want to dive right into setting goals and planning: buying new equipment, building a team, adding a skin care line… the list goes on,” she says. “The issue is that they’re missing out on the critical info they need to make these decisions, like reviewing their year-end data to set better financial, staffing, and growth goals for the upcoming year. Clear goals lead to higherlevel strategy and efficient implementation. In the spa industry, especially, not reviewing your past year’s data dooms you to repeat a frustrating business pattern year after year instead of building on your spa’s successes.” So which aspects of the previous year should spa owners prioritize analyzing when building their year-end checklist? • Sales • Staffing • Treatment Menus • Inventory
is not focusing on sales goals in previous years and lacking context for upcoming years. For an example of context, the expected projected growth rate for spas between 2020-2027 is 5.2%. 3. Include a goal objective. It is too easy for a spa owner to go off track and make goals without attaching them to a specific objective. Before goal-setting, ask yourself, “Why am I making this change?” Be specific so you can create specific action steps to get you there. 4. Bonus step: how often do you meet with your bookkeeper or accountant? If you don’t already schedule a meeting before the end of each year to review your numbers, it’s highly recommended that you do so moving forward to stay on top of your statements, profitability, and sales goals as your spa business grows.
STAFFING REVIEW What you’ll need:
Kirsten breaks down the action steps required for each section of your year-end checklist— regardless of whether you’re running a team or are operating solo!
SALES REVIEW
1. 2019 & 2020 YTD spa service metrics spreadsheet containing individual serviceto-retail ratios, spa productivity, pre-booking statistics, average ticket price, and median client retention.
What you’ll need:
2. Team reviews and analyses.
1. 2020 sales & service metrics YTD (yearto-date) to compare to 2019’s numbers.
3. Training reviews. 4. All manuals.
Action steps for this section: 5. An administrative time analysis. 1. Enter historical metrics and sales into your spreadsheets for a streamlined, at-aglance document to refer to during your planning (and throughout the year!) Pro tip: document your metrics at the end of each month to systematize your metrics’ tracking so you can course-correct quickly after monthly analysis. 2. Create a 2021 financial and metrics goal based on your YTD and 2019 numbers for context. A common hurdle for spa owners
Action steps for this section: 1. Go through all individual staff metrics spreadsheets, performance reviews, and staff files to determine individual strengths and weaknesses. This is an opportunity to add performance reviews to staff workflow if you have not already integrated them. Consider recruiting to replace problematic staff members, retrain staff members on a newly-updated protocol, and decide a time-
LNEonline.com
December2020
31
Year-End Business Guide
line for expanding your team in 2021 (if it would benefit your spa’s growth.) 2. Review all existing team manuals, including staff handbooks, operations manuals, and all supporting documents to ensure that they are relevant and up-to-date. Remove and add sections as necessary. 3. If there are any changes to team manuals, make a note to update your team at a team meeting to review what has been added and/or removed. All staff members should re-sign the manuals’ acknowledgment pages. 4. Review your staff’s training program steps and supporting documents. Add and/or remove sections that will make your staff’s training program more streamlined and effective. 5. Both team and solo entrepreneurs often forget that they can and should delegate or outsource much of their “low level” admin tasks like social media posts, writing emails, or responding to client calls via email or phone. For Solo’s, consider how a Virtual Assistant can ease your workload. For spas with teams, are you hanging on to tasks that you don’t need to do but have been continuing out of habit? Time to delegate them to your Guest Services team!
TREATMENT MENU REVIEW What you’ll need: 1. Your existing treatment menu. 2. Service data from your spa booking software, which should include the service “pie” (i.e., specific top services, specific bottom services, and everything in between.) Generate one report on the whole year and one report for each month to determine seasonal changes. Use the seasonal reports to help you plan out your monthly marketing in advance! The majority of spa 32
December2020
owners wait until the last minute to determine what to focus on in their monthly marketing. 3. A cost-per-service worksheet if one hasn’t already been created. Action steps for this section: 1. Determine which services will be added or removed this upcoming year and why. Pro tip: when in doubt, before scrapping poor-performing services consider if there are aspects of the service or the marketing around it that could be improved. 2. Pause before adding new services based on a handful of clients requesting them. Instead of immediately implementing the new services, keep a tally of the inquiries each month to ensure that there is lasting interest in them. 3. Do consider adding services that are a part of your spa niche and that you are passionate about providing. Your passion for them will help launch and sustain their growth. 4. Ensure that you have determined all costs-per-treatment for each service to guarantee that they are and will continue to be profitable; This is one of the most common epiphany moments coaching clients have when it comes to understanding their cash flow. 5. Use this as an opportunity to add or remove services depending on the niche you are currently in, and if you are considering changing your niche to attract a different or broader client base.
Action steps for this section: 1. Determine which products are slowmoving or dead stock. Analyze if this is due to a disconnection with services, if poor performance is to blame, or if your spa or spa staff are not following sales protocols. (And if you don’t already have sales protocols in place, then take this opportunity to implement them!) 2. Create packages that bundle slowmoving inventory with top-sellers to give them a sales boost. 3. Analyze your past year’s inventory flow and project ordering trends for the upcoming year. 4. Schedule an accounting end-of-theyear inventory count to ensure your inventory value is accurate for tax season.
MAKE 2021 YOUR MOST PROFITABLE YEAR YET While accounting for your spa business, marketing, equipment, facility, and tech are also essential factors to track yearly. Start with the non-negotiables above from Kirsten Foss Coaching to make 2021 your most profitable year yet.
Kirsten Foss has combined 25 years as an esthetician, and 20+ years as a spa owner with her
INVENTORY REVIEW
natural talent as a leader to create a deep understanding of the issues and frustra-
What you’ll need:
tions spa entrepreneurs face in their businesses. Kirsten works with both solo’s and teams to kick
1. Inventory data (specifically bestsellers and slow-moving stock)
start their earning potential by creating operational and staffing systems that strengthen spa owner leadership, bookings, sales and com-
2. Retail-to-service rations
LNEonline.com
munity impact.
Free Customizable Disinfection Protocols Protect your team, clients, and reputation.
OpenWith Confidence.com
Year-End Business Guide
Goal Setter,
Goal Getter 5 tips to help you amp up your biz in the New Year by Mika Diaz
It's time to start brainstorming your goals for 2021! For some, this year's goals might even roll over to January. Although we often think of goal setting as something we do at the start of every year, the truth is that it is extremely important to work on your business goals all year long. Goal setting is one of the most important things you can do for your small business regardless of what you sell or how old your business is. Goals pave the way and set the stage for success. Use this year's setback (COVID shutdown time) for the greater good and base your goals on what you were trying to accomplish this year. Maybe you are already ahead!
34
December2020
LNEonline.com
Year-End Business Guide
You should be setting goals multiple times each year, tracking your progress, and refining the strategies you follow to achieve your goals on an ongoing basis. When setting goals for your business, always remember to set a date. A goal without a deadline is a wish. A goal with a date written down is a plan. Let's start planning! To make your new year plan as productive as possible, it is always recommended to make a list. Don't know where to start? We've made a list of things you can use because there is always room for improvement, especially when running a small business. THE LIST:
1. Reduce ongoing business expenses This is a task everyone should review quarterly. In a time where recurring payments are so easy, it is good to review what you are really paying for and look over your finances closely. Look into apps, subscriptions, fees, interest rates, and eliminate what is not working for you. You would be surprised at how much money you can save just by doing this a few times a year!
city and not have to pay for it. That is social media marketing! Set the goal to educate yourself on social media practices to elevate your brand and grow your business. There are so many tools and ways to teach yourself how to do it. Follow @lneonline & @estheticianedit on Instagram for more social media industry advice!
5. Finding new networking opportunities If you are not actively networking for your small business, then that should be one of your goals for this year! Expand your business network by attending conferences and events (there are digital options, too)! Amp up your LinkedIn profile and get to know more people in your industry. You never know who you can meet and what they can bring to the table. Networking events in the spa industry are especially great ways to meet new people. 2020 will go down in history as a year marked by disruption and change and now is your chance to turn it around. Plan and set goals with a deadline so that you can track your productivity. Let's start the new year on the right foot and get started on goal setting for 2021!
2. Amp up your productivity Don't be intimidated by technology and use it to your advantage. There are so many productivity and workflow platforms out there, and a lot of them are FREE… Yes, I said FREE! Boost your team's productivity and eliminate distractions with one of the many great programs out there. This is another excellent place to keep the goals you have set and track your timeline.
Dr. Jeff Collagen Treatment with MatriCol ® Freeze-Dried Collagen Mask
3. Improve your customer service Like we've said before, there is always room for improvement. Set a goal that focuses on making your customer service exceptional, handling customer complaints more effectively, or incorporating customer service into your social media practices. And don't forget about the power of asking your customers for feedback to identify what your business can be doing better. Using surveys or questions on social media can be very helpful when looking into client feedback.
4. Marketing and branding through social media Many of you have told us you are intimidated or do not have time for social media. That can no longer be the excuse! Social media is like free advertising… Imagine being able to put a billboard up on the most popular street in your
Skin Care Products
Cleanser, Toner, Exfoliant Massage, Serum, Ampoule Mask, Moisturizer
Beauty Supplies Bottles & Jars
Beauty Attica, Inc.
1180 E Francis St, Bldg F Ontario, CA 91761, USA Fax: 1-909-923-0812
Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683 Email: info@dr-jeff.com Web: www.dr-jeff.com
LNEonline.com
December2020
35
2021 Trends Out with the old, in with the NEW!
3
1
2
5
4
7
6
1. BellEye • BelleCote Paris • bellecoteparis.com 2. Anti-Tox Thermo-Peeling • Biodroga MD • biodrogamd.com 3. Power Packed Nourishing Moisturizer • Gentlemen's Tonic • gentlemenstonic.com 4. Total Swellness • FarmHouse Fresh • farmhousefreshgoods.com 5. Hyaluron Performance Serum • Dr. med Christine Schrammek • drschrammekusa.com 6. Collagen Serum • Clayton Shagal • claytonshagal.com 7. Hope Butterfly Holiday Ornament • Spongelle • spongelle.com 36
December2020
LNEonline.com
9
10
8
12
13
11
14
8. Tri Bio Botanical Revival Masque • Environ Skin Care • environskincare.com/us/ 9. Collagen Management • DR. TEMT Skincare • drtemt.at 10. Turmeric Engergizing Treatment • Eminence Organics • eminenceorganics.com 11. Retinaldehyde Serum • Skin Script • skinscriptrx.com 12. Luminous Glow CBD Facial Oil • Nature Pure Clinical Skincare • naturepure.com 13. finipil antiseptic cream • finipil • nufree-professionals.com 14. Eco-Peptide Therapy Gel Mask • ilike Organic Skincare • szepelet.com LNEonline.com
December2020
37
2
1
3
4
5
6
1. Pomegranate + Aloe HANDS • ToGoSpa • togospa.com 2. Gemstone Wellness Mask • CJB Beauty Secrets • beautysecretsus.com 3. CBD goat milk body cream • Beekman 1802 • beekman1802.com 4. Golden Glow-Sicles & Tissue Repair Oil • Bella Schneider Beauty • bellaschneiderbeauty.com 5. Repair Stem Cell Mask • Le Club Euro Cosmetic • leclubeurocosmetic.com 6. Skin Perfecting Matte Primer • Osmosis Beauty • osmosisbeauty.com 38
December2020
LNEonline.com
Silhouet-Tone brings you the latest in Medical Grade LED Light Technology Clinically proven Wavelengths in a long line of Photobiomodulation Systems
NO PHYSICAL CONTACT... Safe for your clients Safe for you
See more at
silhouettone.us/product/soli-lite F D A C LEA R A N C E K I 92755
Natural, gentle and yet highly-effective for a variety of skin conditions Mild to severe acne (include the wavelength Blue 450 +/-5 nm) Wrinkles, fine lines and crow’s feet Scarring Damaged skin Dark circles and signs of fatigue Aging and sagging Stretch marks Acne marks Post-surgery scars, peeling Leasing and finance offers
2043 NW 87 TH AVENUE • MIAMI, FL 33172 USA
1 800 552-0418
stusa@silhouettone.com
— 2185 Michelin, Laval, Québec, H7L 5B8 Canada —
NORTH AMERICAN MANUFACTURED SINCE 1965
2021
Trend Predictions from the Experts! I think the top brow trends for 2021 are going to be the new look we've been seeing on Instagram- laminated brows and the new brow soap. I’m most excited that 2020 is over, I'm so serious! Looking forward to a fresh new start in the new year for all things beauty and everyone in the world.
- Kelley Baker, Hollywood’s Brow Whisperer and Owner of Kelley Baker Brows
I believe that skincare trends will be simplified and budget friendly. Consumers are becoming more and more skincare savvy, demanding specific treatment products, even kits, for targeted areas of the eyes, face and neck. I think that people will be looking for more intimate and safe wellness spas. Spas will focus greatly on individuals' mental wellness incorporating the physical, spiritual, and mental aspects.
- Nerida Joy, Celebrity Esthetician and Creator of the FIVESTAR Method
40
December2020
LNEonline.com
Light therapy has become a valuable low/no-touch service that has allowed spas to offer safe treatments to clients even during these COVID times. As a result, light therapy has become a highly prized menu offering. Here at Celluma, we feel this will continue to be a major skincare maintenance trend for 2021.
- Denise Ryan, Celluma Product Manager, Director of Sales, and the Global Vice President of Brand Management.
Consumers are seeking more than to just look good. The desire now is truly a sense of well-being, and how to achieve that goal is going to be different. I think consumables are going to be the biggest trend for skincare. The focus now is on what we are putting in our bodies. I predict, with everything going on in the world, the shift in Spa will be toward touchless wellness experiences. Think meditation and floatation pods that also include music and infrared to touch all of the senses.
- Sherrie Tennessee, Director of Education, SpaSOS
I think a “less is more" approach will be a dominant theme in 2021. The pandemic has highlighted the need for sustainability and more mindful consumption and has also forced many consumers to become more conservative and strategic about their purchases. Consumers will also be looking to the experts, rather than beauty influencers to guide them in their decision-making. Personalized regimens and consultation-based skincare through Licensed Professionals is definitely a trend to look out for in 2021.
-Joanna Kula, Lead Esthetician at Rescue Spa and Educator
Women will continue to drive the beauty industry towards developing more "clean beauty" products that are packaged sustainably. And because of the ongoing safety requirements and mask-wearing, the focus will remain on eye makeup, lashes and transfer-proof lip color.
- Beke Beau, Founder + Lead Educator of the Paint School of Makeup
LNEonline.com
December2020
41
organic & wellness The Gua Sha Facial
The
GUA SHA Facial A closer look at the angles and edges of the stone by Cecily Braden
42
December2020
LNEonline.com
GUA SHA: a word that’s been heard and has rippled throughout the world with die hard followers and skeptics in equal form. It's a popularized facial massage, which has been an industry standard, but perhaps overlooked and undervalued in its ability to shape the face and regulate the health of the skin. Facial massage is where the magic happens. It supports the skin's function and increases the receptibility of the products that are applied. It can be argued that it’s the most important part of any facial and if true, Gua Sha may well be considered the sorcerer's wand. If I’ve lost you by entertaining the idea that gliding a stone on the surface of the skin can create fundamental shifts in the health of the skin, let us peel back the layers to understand the science and skill behind the movements and the benefits of each angle and edges of the stone.
organic & wellness The Gua Sha Facial
THE STONE THE SCIENCE Facial Gua Sha is part of modern Eastern Asian beauty therapy. It stems from modifications to the original friction-based technique of Gua Sha practiced on the body. It uses the same or similar tools, but the technique is much gentler and tailored to the delicate tissues of the face and neck. Facial Gua Sha encourages the beneficial flow of blood and fluids to and from the face. It stimulates the activation of acupressure points that lift, tone, and use your body's resources to heal and slow the visible signs of aging. This simple yet powerful therapy brings about a fundamental change in the skin by clearing stagnation and accumulation in the tissues, and the "channel pathways" of Eastern Asian Medical Theory. By clearing these pathways, we are able to simultaneously create space within the tissue for the healthy exchange of nutrients and wastes that are essential for vibrant skin. It’s important to understand that many of the present-day adaptations are not solely based on Traditional Chinese Medical (TCM) theory. In most cases, it’s a “fusion” of facial massage modalities, using the edges and angles of a Gua Sha stone to manipulate the tissue in a way that supports the natural function of the skin.
Not all Gua Sha stones are created equal or serve the same purpose. They are found in all shapes and sizes with hand-carved features distinguishing them from another, which may seem insignificant to an untrained eye, but each of these distinctive characteristics and features serve a unique purpose and are of the utmost importance during a treatment. What they ALL have in common is their basic ability to connect with the skin, which is the fundamental aspect of Gua Sha. Their uniqueness lies in the careful design and the superior ability to contour and navigate meticulously around the natural geography of the skin—allowing you to switch from one edge to another based on the intention and needs of the skin.
LET THE STONE DO THE WORK The depth and range of possibilities available includes Gua Sha and facial massage stones that are ergonomically designed, etched with ridges and teeth, gentle hooks and rounded tips to smooth paddles and beveled edges that do the work for you.
Combed Teeth: Similar to fascia ridges but designed to access and care for the health of the scalp and tissue and muscles that continue beyond the hairline.
THE SKILL
Elongated hook or bow: Acts like a scoop
The effectiveness of Gua Sha comes from the underlying movement that is created and the chain reaction that occurs when the systems that support the skin are ignited. The varying edges and the angle in which the stone connects with the skin and the pressure used determines the benefit. Having a set of tools with distinctive degrees of access to every layer of the skin allows you to address a bevy of skincare concerns.
to combat “turkey neck” and under eye bags by removing excess fluids that accumulate under the chin and eyes.
U or H-shaped Notch: Clears stagnation along the jawline. Engages the tissue along the spine and neck muscles.
Beveled Edges: Anchor + glide (aka edging) is a technique using the beveled edges to smooth the connective tissue where fine lines and wrinkles manifest and become visible on the surface.
LNEonline.com
December2020
43
organic & wellness The Gua Sha Facial
of oxygen, blood and essential fluids needed to irrigate, hydrate and feed the tissue. Although, it’s important to be properly trained and understand how to use the different angles and edges of the stone, the popularity comes from being able to accomplish fundamental changes in the skin whether you fully understand the medical theory or not. By simply increasing movement through massage and restoring inner mobility, the skin is able to naturally clear deleterious obstructions that lead to acne, rosacea, puffiness, dark circles and sensitivities. By manipulating the movements of the Gua Sha stone and adjusting the angles and edge, we can focus on the superficial layers as well as the underlying connective tissue and muscle movement to repattern the way the skin ages.
Handle | Fascia rolling: Acts like a foam roller to relieve myofascial tension, reduce inflammation, puffiness and pain in the jaw from grinding or clenching your teeth. Helps reduce migraines and tension headaches.
Acupressure | Reflexology Tip: Effective for facial reflexology, or to activate acupressure points. Soothes and erases brow tension, eyes straining and knots deeply seated in the muscles.
Fascia Ridges: Energy runs in undulating patterns, so the teeth allow you to access the ebbs in order to maintain the flow. On a physical level, they’re akin to “tilling the soil” and help irrigate the tissue, liberate cellular debris and unearth the healthy skin within.
Curved Wave: Sculpt, lift and smooth the complexion. Connects and engages the tissue like a windshield wiper to aid the transportation of excess fluids. Reduce inflammation and create space and an 44
December2020
optimal environment for the increased production of collagen and elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Cecily Braden Founder of CJB Beauty Secrets and recognized leader in the wellness industry
Connective Tissue | Manual Lymphatic Ridges:
who has been educating spa professionals in the
Acts like a “squeegee” on the skin to direct excess fluids and iron out fine lines and deep wrinkles in the connective tissue.
United States, Canada, Mexico, Asia and Europe since 1994. CJB Beauty Secrets was started as a result of her passion for Southeast Asia and desire to offer unique products and services that maintain the traditional techniques and
Rippled Double-S Wave: Features two smaller
philosophies of international cultures.
concaves that make it easier to maintain connection as you navigate the smaller contours and angles of the neck and face. Hugs and contours the jawline, cheeks, eyes, spine and trachea.
Her Gua Sha Facial Fusion and Thai Herbal Poultice Facial Massage hands-on training programs have achieved International acclaim, and are supported with her range of patented facial massage tools. Cecily’s down to earth approach to learning
Beveled Paddle: Creates a unidirectional
helps students easily interpret complex theory
rocking motion that ignites the flow of lymph and the process of purifying the tissue by directing cellular waste away from the tissue.
and master a vast range of techniques, enabling them to excel in the treatment room and provide fundamentally positive shifts in the health of their clients' skin and body. Her goal is to inspire and guide wellness profes-
Weeble Wobble Mushroom Caps: Melt ten-
sionals how to mindfully take their treatments to
sion and unwind bound fascia that acts like a dam in a river, restricting the flow
the next level and achieve long-term results by
LNEonline.com
working with the natural function(s) of the skin.
Organic & Wellness
1
NEWS 2
Osmosis Beauty’s Recovery Elixir
Regenerating fat pad volume and counteracting facial volume loss that naturally occurs with aging, the Recovery Elixir alleviates the need for volume fillers while effectively creating a much more youthful appearance.
osmosisbeauty.com
Hydro-Greens Gel Serum from Powerella Beauty + Wellness Get your clients glowing with a green juice for the skin! This intensive lightweight serum blends powerhouse superfoods spirulina and turmeric with MSM, a vegan collagen activator, to promote elasticity and brighten and hydrate skin.
powerella.com
3
Body Butter from Nuyu Organic Herbal Wellness Formulated with a combination of shea butter and organic herbal ingredients, this body butter will leave the skin soft and silky smooth. It is enhanced with CBD, phytocannabinoid, phytonutrients, and healthy moisturizing fats to calm and refresh the skin.
nuyuwellness.com
LNEonline.com
December2020
45
image Make Your Mark
Make
Mark
Your
Diving into the world of makeup by Beke Beau
Makeup, even in the age of widespread mask-wearing, remains a driving medium of the worldwide beauty experience. Social media content and tutorials continue to garner millions of followers, generating billions of dollars' worth of cosmetic sales. With all this instruction, one might think that it's easy for the consumer to buy and use makeup without a professional's help. It isn't. And that's good news for aspiring and working makeup professionals. You may be thinking of developing your makeup skills to add to your current offerings or go in a different direction as a beauty professional. Whether you're in a spa/salon setting or plan to work freelance, there are lucrative opportunities in specialties like bridal, commercial (for print and film), and, in certain markets, television and film/movie makeup. Unfortunately, most esthetics and cosmetology programs barely touch upon training in makeup application, and the standard textbooks don't reflect modern makeup formulas or even the diversity of American culture. It's not a surprise to hear an esthetician say that "I didn't learn much about makeup in school."
46
December2020
LNEonline.com
image Make Your Mark So how do you get the training to acquire the skills and confidence to be successful in adding makeup to your list of services? Here's how.
CONSIDER YOUR OPTIONS The two most effective learning opportunities are first, apprenticeship, and second, enrolling in an in-person professional training program. The third, somewhat limited option – because makeup application is hands-on - is online learning. The best way to learn the true nature and process of makeup application is to align yourself with a professional makeup artist working in your target field and willing to take you on as an apprentice or assistant. For example, if you'd like to work in bridal, contact the local bridal artists and companies and ask if they need assistance – of any kind. When communicating, be honest and humble about where you are in your journey and make it clear that you value their time and consideration. Don't expect to get paid for an opportunity to apprentice or intern, at least initially. These professionals are giving you valuable information in return for assisting, which could mean anything from carrying kits and washing brushes to lending a hand on an actual application.
YOUR LOCATION MATTERS In more active markets, makeup artists who do bridal may do other related work during the week, such as makeup for commercial photographers, corporate filmmakers, and applications and lessons for private clients. In large cities with robust film and television industries like New York, Los Angeles, and Atlanta, artists may specialize in these media only. There are several makeup schools around the country, and finding them is a matter of doing some internet research. Initially, your search results will yield a list of cosmetology schools. However, you are looking for a school that has programs in makeup primarily.
A legitimate makeup school will have a comprehensive website with contact information so that you can learn more about their programs. If they are located in states where makeup artists must be licensed, and if they're accredited, they can rightly claim that their program leads to licensure. In states that don't offer a license or where the state cosmetology laws are ambiguous, you might see programs that offer "certification." That might seem like a good credential but carries little weight other than a marketing tool for your website or social media. Become familiar with the laws by visiting your state's Board of Cosmetology website so that you know what you're being offered by a school and to what degree their programs will qualify you to work as a makeup artist.
ONLINE LEARNING, IS IT WORTH IT? Since the pandemic and the complete shutdown of the personal services industry, the existing library of online courses has blossomed even further as makeup professionals scramble to maintain some presence and income. Artists who had been toying with the idea of providing online learning have seen this challenge as a call to action to deliver digital content. Online learning options can range from multi-level complete programs to specialized courses in airbrushing, color theory, and social media. This is where you must do your homework to determine that you're getting a good
return on your investment. How long has the program been in existence? Who are the instructors or artists involved? Check out their websites and social media to confirm that they have legitimate expertise and respect in the industry. Is the program or instructor associated with a brand and will they be selling to you as much as teaching? These are just some of the questions you can ask before you spend money and time.
NETWORKING IS KEY Finally, there are communities, associations, and collectives of makeup artists. Participation in or membership in these groups can be a meaningful path to develop your network, discover programs, hear diverse opinions, and in some cases, get training from top pros in the industry. Ultimately, no piece of paper, including a license, will guarantee you success. Instead, it will be determined by your natural skills, level of commitment to excellence in your work, and your ability to connect with and deliver excellent service to your clients. Beke Beau is a multi-award winning makeup artist who started her career in New York City. In addition to working with her VIP clientele, she has been nationally recognized for her exquisite bridal work and signature private lessons, as well as her popular Makeup for Mature Women (™) workshops. Beke is also the founder and lead educator of the Paint School of Makeup, launched this year in Philadelphia.
LNEonline.com
December2020
47
Image
1
NEWS RapidBrow Eyebrow Enhancing Serum Formulated with an innovative HexateinÂŽ2 Complex exclusive to RapidBrowÂŽ, this enhancing serum consists of six highly effective ingredients that help condition and improve the appearance of eyebrows. With just a few brush strokes, brows are more beautiful and naturally full!
rapidlash.com
2
Natural Lash Shampoo from MISENCIL INC. This Natural Lash Shampoo is revolutionary with its antioxidant, antiinflammatory, anti-irritant, and anti-aging ingredients to deeply purify and protect lashes. It cleanses the skin of the eyelids and the most sensitive eyelash extensions, relieves tired eyes, and effectively prevents itching.
misencil.com
3 48
December2020
CERAMIC HEATED LASH CURLER from PremierLash The most ADVANCED Heated Lash Curler on the market & ONLY curler with a ceramic heating coil. Use before your lash services to curl lashes. It is USB rechargeable and suited for both commercial and at home use!
premierlash.com
LNEonline.com
For peace of mind...
@equipro_bty
Proudly made in The USA and CANADA For your nearest distributor or for a 2021 brochure, call this toll-free number 1-877-324-2226 LNEonline.com
December2020
49
Page Number
53................. Altair Instruments..............................................................................................................altairinstruments.com
5................... Celluma......................................................................................................................................biophotas.com
37.................Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc................................................................................................................dr-jeff.com
2,3................ Eminence Organic Skin Care.........................................................................................eminenceorganics.com
47................. Equipro USA............................................................................................................................ equipro-bty.com
7................... G.M. Collin Skin Care................................................................................................................... gmcollin.com
37.................Hawrych MD Lash..............................................................................................................hawrychmdlash.com
21................. JYano Hair Care.................................................................................................................. JYanoHairCare.com
19.................NuFree - Equibal Labs................................................................................................nufree-professionals.com
35................. Rejuvenate by Virox Technologies........................................................................RejuvenateDisinfectants.com
41................. Silhouet Tone USA LTD........................................................................................................... silhouettone.com
4................... Skin Accents.............................................................................................................................skinaccents.com
9................... Skin Script Skin Care................................................................................................................. skinscriptrx.com
25................. Sorella Apothecary......................................................................................................... sorellaapothecary.com
*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
50
December2020
LNEonline.com
EXPERIENCE
DiamondTome
Our diamond-tipped wands glide effortlessly across skin and provide consistent, professional-quality exfoliation that your clients want -- without the mess of crystals, and with zero downtime. Your clients will see a signiďŹ cant difference in their skin after one treatment; and with four different diamond grits to choose from, each treatment is entirely customizable to their unique skin needs. Don’t believe us? #ExperienceDiamondTome and see the difference for yourself!
| diamondtome.com