LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals December 2019
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FROM THE
EDITOR
What a year! I can’t believe 2019 is coming to a close. This year has been a whirlwind of travel, tradeshows, awesome
content
creation,
indulgent
facial
treatments and meeting so many incredibly talented estheticians all around the country. In honor of all the amazing estys out there, I’ve curated this special issue just for you!
This month’s Estheticians Around the World Guide pays homage to the study of esthetics and how we can all learn something from each other. Read three amazing accounts of studying esthetics abroad and
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the differences between how our cultures celebrate the skin.
I hope 2019 was as successful for you as it was for us here at Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa Magazine. I hope that 2020 brings all your hopes and dreams to fruition and that we continue to celebrate the joys of being estheticians together through these pages.
For real-time updates and show announcements, press allow for push notifications straight to your device.
Happy New Year!
Download the free app in the APP store ( Android and IOS compatible)
Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com 4
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Light Therapy
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December volume 34 number 12
contents 4
From the Editor Advertiser Index
10 Troubleshooting Acne Treatments
42
French Skin Philosophy
18 Team Vitamin A
46
Esty Experience with Nerida Joy
50
Brow Design Around the World
52
Oils Photo Feature
business
41 Estheticians Around The World
20
Spa of the Month
58
Cranberry Skin Care
24
Back Bar Beauty
62
Custom Ayurvedic Facial
29
Spa News
66
Organic & Wellness News
o&w
spa
10 Troubleshooting Acne Treatments
24 Back Bar Beauty
58 Cranberry Skin Care
32
Marketing to Teens
68
Clean Beauty
38
Miami 2019 Recap
73
Image News
40
#esty2esty
image
skin
19 Skin News
guide
74
32 Marketing to Teens
68 Clean Beauty
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Elizabeth Canler elizabeth@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Barbara Brock Barbie Zarraga Cristina Beecham David del Rio
Madeleine Mendelow Maria Camille Arias Nerida Joy
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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Troubleshooting
Acne
Treatments Five skin conditions that may present as acne by Cristina Beecham
Acne is one of the most common skin conditions that estheticians treat in their practice. From hormonal teen acne to persistent and stubborn adult acne, to painful and inflamed cystic acne, there are many different presentations and causes for this unsightly skin condition. However, many clients and estheticians alike have spent countless hours and money treating what they thought was acne, when really it was something else. Training yourself to recognize these “acne imposters� is vital to the success and efficacy of your treatments. At the end of the day, your clients are coming to you for clear skin. Become a true acne expert by realizing when what your client has is actually not acne, but rather something else.
skin Troubleshooting Acne Treatments
1. Keratosis Pilaris Keratosis pilaris is a skin condition commonly seen on the upper arms, buttocks, thighs and sometimes on the back. The skin cells that normally flake off as a fine dust from the skin form plugs in the hair follicles. These appear as small pimples that have a dry ''sandpaper'' feeling. They are usually white but sometimes can be red. They usually don't itch or hurt.
A good scrub and exfoliant serum or lotion with glycolic, mandelic and /or vitamin a proprionate can be beneficial for clients with Keratosis PIlaris on their body.
The cuase is unknown. However, it is believed that hormones contribute to the development of the lesions since the condition is much more common in females and, in some cases, has been associated with pregnancy. It is rarely associated with other diseases, such as inflammatory bowel disease, thyroid disease, and liver disease. Treatment options include corticosteroids, isotretinoin, dapsone, and antibiotics. This is typically seen in women who have never had acne before. They suddenly have a horrible breakout mostly down the middle of the forehead, cheeks and chin. It is almost always preceded by severe emotional trauma and by a period of extreme oiliness. These women have a specific enzyme deficiency which can suppress the adrenal gland. Instead of hydrocortisone, the gland dumps out excessive testosterone instead. Send this client to the doctor to get a blood test and treated for this hormonal imbalance.
2. Rosacea fulminans
3. Pityrosporum Folliculitis
Rosacea fulminans, also known as facial pyoderma, is a rare condition, considered as an exacerbated form of rosacea. It occurs mostly in women ageds 15-46. It can also occur in men and children.
Pityrosporum folliculitis, also known as Malassezia folliculitis, is a condition that presents as breakouts on the skin. It may be considered common and under-recognized. It occurs when a spe-
This condition develops when the skin produces too much keratin , which blocks hair follicles and causes bumps to develop. Keratosis Pilaris is very common and many of our clients suffer from this condition on the backs of their arms. The condition isn't often serious and usually disappears by age 30.
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cific genus of yeast called Malassezia, which naturally occurs on your skin, infects the hair follicles. Sometimes people with this condition think they have recurring acne and try to treat it as they would for regular acne. This makes it easy to miss or misdiagnose. However, an easy way to tell the difference between the two conditions is to compare the symptoms. Pityrosporum folliculitis lacks comedones, which are the whiteheads and blackheads that are common characteristics of acne. It can also be a very itchy condition, while acne is not. People who have pityrosporum folliculitis are sometimes more likely to have other conditions like dandruff, which is also known as seborrheic dermatitis. Both conditions are linked to the Malassezia yeast. These two conditions are essentially treated the same as well, with antifungals and often a shampoo, such as ketoconazole two percent shampoo. This is a very common fungal (or sometimes bacterial) condition of the skin. It can look just like acne, but does not respond to typical acne products like salicylic or benzoyl peroxide. The main clue is in extracting it – it extracts, but has no “core” like acne has. Another clue is to ask them if the bumps “come and go.” If yes, then it’s probably folliculitis, because acne doesn’t typically do this. An effective ingredient for this is a mandelic cleanser and/or serum or a ketoconazole shampoo, both of which have anti-fungal properties.
4. Steatocystoma Multiplex Steatocystoma multiplex is a skin disorder characterized by the development of multiple noncancerous (benign) cysts known as steatocystomas. These growths begin in the skin's sebaceous glands, which normally produce an oily substance called sebum that lubricates the skin and hair. Steatocystomas are filled with sebum. In affected individuals, steatocystomas typically first appear during ado-
skin Troubleshooting Acne Treatments lescence and are found most often on the torso, neck, upper arms, and upper legs. These cysts are usually the only sign of the condition. However, some affected individuals also have mild abnormalities involving the teeth or the fingernails and toenails. This is caused by excessive oil being secreted in the pores; whereas, acne is caused by too many dead skin cells being shed inside the pore. These lesions also do not have a “core” like acne does. It will sometimes extract a gelantious fluid, but there’s no need to extract this as it will just come right back. There is no known treatment or cure at this point.”
tions on this client. Sterilize anything that comes into contact with this condition because you can contact staph yourself or transmit it to another person. Staph infections are commonly mistaken for acne because the first symptoms of Staph include the outbreak of red, swollen lesions that may look like acne pimples. How can you tell the difference between a harmless outbreak of acne and a dangerous Staph infection like MRSA? While the most effective way to determine if you have MRSA is to get a culture of the affected skin at the hospital or your doctor’s office, you can look for certain hints and signs to determine if it’s acne or MRSA.
5. Staph Infection Staph on the face or the body can look much like acne but it’s much more severe. If you suspect that someone has a staph infection, direct them to go to a physician immediately to be tested and treated. Do NOT try any extrac-
Here are way you can tell MRSA apart from regular acne: In a large outbreak, MRSA pimples more closely resemble boils than acne pimples.
MRSA pimples will not respond to standard acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. • Acne tends to crop up in the same few places on the body — face, back, chest, shoulders — whereas MRSA pimples can appear anywhere on the body and may involve just a single lesion. • MRSA pimples are more closely situated around cuts/breaks in the skin. • MRSA pimples are usually more painful than acne pimples. • MRSA pimples are often surrounded by areas of inflammation, redness, and warmth. • The outbreak of MRSA pimples is often accompanied by a fever.
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TEAM
VITAMIN A Understanding vitamin A derivites in skin care by Madeleine Mendelow
In esthetics, there are several primary derivatives of vitamin A used including retinol, retinyl palmitate or vitamin A palmitate and retinaldehyde. A process referred to as encapusulation has been used most successfully by inventors and researchers as a way to provide even more value to the substance. Encapsulation is used with retinol and retinaldehyde in cosmeceutical formulations to enhance delivery, stability and efficacy.
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skin Team Vitamin A
the skin and giving it a healthy glow. These properties make it an effective re-youth ingredient—targeting lines, wrinkles and pigmentation caused by UV damage and aging, as well as normalizing keratinization and increasing enzyme activity. Retinol also produces excellent results for rosacea and sensitive skin types.
RETINALDEHYDE Retinaldehyde is the newest and one of the most dynamic vitamin A derivatives to the industry. It’s similar to retinol in the sense that it’s a pro-drug that converts to retinoic acid. Where it differs, however, is that it’s less irritating to the skin and has one less step involved in the conversion to retinoic acid.
RETINOIDS Retinoids in general are vitamin A derivatives, which the skin converts to retinoic acid where it then becomes active. This encompasses several chemical compounds including retinol (alcohol form), retinal (aldehyde form), retinoic acid (acid form) and retinyl ester (ester form), which are collectively referred to as retinoids. Topical retinoids are beneficial in treating acne and aging skin. In skin rejuvenation, retinoids are used as reyouthing chemicals, where vitamin A is absorbed through the skin, increasing the rate of cell turnover and collagen production, creating a more youthful appearance.
RETINYL PALMITATE Retinyl palmitate is a combination of retinol and palmitic acid. More than 80 percent of the vitamin A typically found in skin is stored as retinyl palmitate. It’s a DNA regulator that provides gradual 16
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non-irritating skin resurfacing, reduces wrinkles and smoothes skin texture, improving the signs of aging. It also promotes collagen synthesis and pigment control.
RETINOL Retinol has been used for decades in over-the-counter preparations and is widely used by estheticians, reaping profound benefits for most skin types. It’s one of the animal forms of vitamin A. It is a diterpenoid and an alcohol that is converted to other forms of vitamin A, and not to be confused with retinal. It has a two-step conversion to retinoic acid when applied to the skin. Encapsulation is a proficient way to deliver retinol to the skin, and research has shown the elevated benefits of using this method for skin rejuvenation. Retinol stimulates the growth of new blood vessels, which improves circulation, increasing the oxygen supply to
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The challenge with retinaldehyde has been stability, but through evolutionary encapsulation processes, this is a stable precursor to retinoic acid, and its pro-youth and clear skin benefits are boosted. It also produces the least amount of skin irritation of all vitamin A derivatives, making it a choice for all skin types. This characteristic often makes it easier to combine with other acne treatments such as AHAs, BHAs and benzoyl peroxides. Encapsulated retinaldehyde performs closest to retinoic acid in topical formulations where it provides powerful wrinkle reduction and prevention. It also has been shown to bring UVA damaged skin back to health, which has major implications on skin repair and re-youth programs. Plus it works to stimulate cellular cohesion and eliminate bacteria. Since encapsulated retinaldehyde is less irritating to the skin, it proves superior in treating acne. Some research has also shown this ingredient contains antimicrobial characteristics, which enables it to provide support against P. acnes.
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skin Team Vitamin A
VITAMIN A SKIN CARE Vitamin A is found in two primary forms in food: retinol, the form absorbed when eating animal food sources, and carotenes, namely beta-carotene. The latter requires an enzyme in the body to convert the compound to retinal. The vitamin can be found in many foods including meat sources, dandelion greens, carrots, broccoli, sweet potatoes, kale, spinach and pumpkin, to name a few. In cosmeceuticals, vitamin A can be found in a variety of strengths in creams, serums, acids and enzymes. When blended with other ingredients such as skin-building organic stem cells, peptides or micro algae, vitamin A derivatives will produce a more gentle approach to the regenerating benefits while providing hydration and skin strengthening. Similarly, the exfoliation and regenerating properties of vitamin A derivatives are enhanced when combined with ingredients like salicylic acid, flower acids and lactic acid (L). Vitamin A derivatives are unquestionably effective in reducing the signs of aging caused by sun damage. The rapid cell turnover, increase in oxygen supply 18
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and improved circulation that occurs with vitamin A derivatives results in smoother, stronger and glowing skin. Clients are generally receptive to the idea of incorporating vitamin A derivatives into their skin rejuvenation program. In the past, the only trepidation was for those who have sensitive skins, but that has changed with the introduction of less irritating varieties like encapsulated retinaldehyde. These are also beneficial for those who may not be able to tolerate other acids and enzymes, but want the exfoliation and regenerating benefits of a corrective re-youth program. For those who are on a more intense anti-aging program, vitamin A works well to support the skin between peels and other corrective treatments.
good mineral-based SPF and educate clients on the importance of staying out of the sun following treatment. For home care, retinoid formulas are best used at night, when degradation by light is minimal, and always protect the skin with SPF. Be sure to educate clients on best practices when using any retinoid formulation. When used properly, these time-tested vitamin A ingredients will prove a necessary component in your skin care toolbox. Not only is it effective in treating acne, it also enhances the re-youth process when rejuvenation is the goal.
Madeleine Mendlow is currently a first-year medical student in South Carolina. She received her B.A. in Romance
While vitamin A proves essential in skin rejuvenation and correcting acne, it is necessary to adhere to certain precautions. For example, don’t use it when skin is exposed to the sun. In the treatment room, be sure to finish with a
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Languages and Literature and International Studies from the University of Michigan and completed her CIDESCO esthetician training at Cinta Aveda in San Francisco. In addition to skin, she is passionate about lifestyle medicine and women’s health
Skin
1
NEWS AnteAGE PRO Serum and Accelerator
2
Shunly CE + Asiatic Treatment
The AnteAGE Accelerator is a performance driven treatment rich with Stem Cytyokines™, vitamins and antioxidants to deeply hydrate and nourish the skin, while research backed molecules promote healing, reduce inflammation and regenerate skin.
Advanced antioxidant serum featuring Asiatic Acid, vitamin C and E utilized synergistically to provide unmatched protection to prevent damaged caused by environmental pollutants and UV radiation.
shunlyskincare.com
anteage.com
3
Enbioment™ Probiotic Line from DMK
4
DMK Skin Care’s new Enbioment™ Microbiome Probiotic System was designed to neutralize the skin’s pH level with rich anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic property ingredients like olive fruit oil, snow mushroom, green tea, Vitamin E and Vitamin C.
Instantly detoxify without stripping the skin’s natural protective barrier. Free of sodium laureth/lauryl sulfates, detergents, dyes and fragrances.
dannemking.com
Expurtise Effective Anti-Aging Ultra Purifying Cleanser
expurtise.com
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Mirbeau Spa Rhinebeck Rhinebeck, New York
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SPA OF THE MONTH
“Life, classically balanced.” by Cristina Beecham
Mirbeau Inn & Spa Rhinebeck is now open, introducing the award-winning Mirbeau philosophy of “life, classically balanced”—and a restaurant by the world-renowned Charlie Palmer—to New York’s picturesque Hudson Valley. The third in a growing Northeast portfolio by The Mirbeau Companies, the intimate, 50-room resort welcomed its first guests in September of this year.
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spa Spa Of The Month
Like its award-winning sister resorts— the flagship Mirbeau Inn & Spa in Skaneateles, N.Y. and Mirbeau Inn & Spa Pinehills in Plymouth, Mass. Mirbeau Inn & Spa Rhinebeck is designed to help its guests find balance in modern living. It offers gracious accommodations, a world-class Spa Mirbeau and progressive American dining at Willow by Charlie Palmer. Guests enjoy every modern comfort within the ambience of an old-world chic Parisian hotel, without the need for a passport. From Mirbeau Rhinebeck’s forested surroundings on 2.8 secluded, private acres, guests are within a short stroll of the unique shops, galleries and thriving food scene of the village’s historic center. This proximity makes it equally inviting for local residents, who can stop in for a buzzworthy breakfast at Willow or a signature treatment at Spa Mirbeau. 22
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Facial Treatments
Body Treatments
The Mirbeau Spa Rhinebeck offers a variety of luxurious anti-aging and radiance enhancing facials. The Premier Cru Facial (50 minutes, $190; 100 minutes, $290) is described as “A supreme beauty ritual providing a comprehensive anti-aging treatment for unparalleled results. The innovative micro-roller massage technique, and exclusive Hydrogel mask creates an immediate lifting effect. Fine lines and wrinkles are visibly smoothed and refined, leaving the complexion radiant, youthful, and glowing.” For spa clients looking for a more intensive exfoliation, the Dynamic Resurfacing Precision Peel (50 minutes, $145; 100 minutes, $245) is an excellent choice. This clinically proven treatment targets signs of aging and uneven skin tone with layers of enzymes for “powerful exfoliation and renewal.”
Mirbeau Inn & Spa Rhinebeck guests seeking to fully renew and relax during their stay are welcomed with a variety of body detoxification and purifying treatments. The French Clay Detox (50 minutes, $150; 100 minutes $255) begins with “an invigorating exfoliation to remove dead skin cells. Next, warm French green clay and seaweed are applied to the body to remove toxins, nourish the skin, and stimulate circulation. A calming scalp massage is performed while the body is wrapped and the skin is replenished with a coconutargan body oil.” For those looking to firm up over the holidays, the Organic Body Firming Wrap (50 minutes, $150) is the perfect choice. Starting with full body dry brushing to remove dead skin cells, stimulate the lymphatic system and improve circulation, skin already starts to
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spa Spa Of The Month
Rundown Mirbeau Inn & Spa 46 West Market Street Rhinebeck, New York 12572 1.877.647.2328 mirbeau.com look brighter. Next, a clinically proven body firming serum is applied to reduce the appearance of cellulite and tone the skin. Lastly, the body is wrapped in “a hydrating cocoon while you enjoy a relaxing massage of the face and scalp.”
New Treatments from Elemis Starting in September, the Mirbeau Spa Rhinebeck introduced a series of treatments from the well-loved spa line Elemis. Clients can experience “advanced skincare with new spa treatments featuring ELEMIS, an award-winning professional spa-therapy brand. Mirbeau’s new facial and body treatment offerings will feature the incredible BIOTEC Technology. The pioneering innovation of the BIOTEC machine works to switch the skin back on, increasing its natural cellular energy resulting in thriving, visibly, healthy, and energized skin.” The ELEMIS BIOTEC Firm-a-Lift Treatment (50 minutes, $195) invites clients to “rediscover the architecture of [their] face with this ground-breaking blend of massage and sculpting galvanic technology.” It is designed to strengthen the extracellular matrix of the skin, restoring elasticity and firmness for a more contoured facial complexion.
For sensitive skin clients, the ELEMIS BIOTEC Sensitive Skin Soother (50 minutes, $165) is an anti-stress and antiredness treatment designed to soothe sensitive skin. This treatment utilizes oxygen infusion to “encourage cellular restoration, while red light therapy and calming anti-oxidants improve ths kin’s ability to repair itself. The result is calm and soothed skin.”
Events & Promotions In celebration of the holidays and the spa’s recent opening, the Mirbeau Inn & Spa Rhinebeck is participating in several spa promotions. For example, throughout the month of November, the spa offered 50 percent off your second treatment after booking the first. This promotion was valid Mondays through Thursdays. Let’s not forget about our male clients! On November 21st, Mirbeau Spa hosted a special event for their male clientel, hosted by Michael Bruggeman, founder and CEO of Organic Male OM4 to promote the Movember Foundation, which addresses men’s health issues. Guests were invited to support the well-beng of gentleman and experience event-only specials, including grooming consultations, raffles and fall facial treatments.
Opened: September 2019 Services: Skin care; massage; body treatments; hand & foot therapy; men’s treatments; couples experiences; packages Amenities: Resting room; heated foot pool; herbal infused sauna; steam room; heated whirlpool; private bar; fitness center
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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Back Bar Beauty
Serene Organizing in your Salon or Spa by Barbara Brock
As consumers continue to focus on wellness, salons and spas are benefiting from their rising expenditure on health and beauty luxuries. As these guests venture to the spa and salon for relaxation and a brief escape for hectic lifestyles, they have certain expectations. Primarily, they are seeking a sense of serenity in the actual environment from the waiting area to the retail area to the actual treatment rooms. The last thing salon/spa owners or estheticians want to do upon their arrival is to ruin the mood with clutter everywhere.
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spa Back Bar Beauty
The simplest of tips to help organize skin care and beauty products in your retail areas and treatment rooms can ensure and bolster the “Zen” feel each customer experiences. Personally, when I go to a spa or facial specialist, the first thing I notice and determine is how clean the whole place is. In fact, I have actually walked out when I did not feel that cleanliness was next to godliness so to speak. First impressions of the treatment room translate into the initial mood for their experience. As a customer, I immediately notice if the spa area is comfortable and soothing. I also hone in on the treatment table – is it properly tidy with super clean towels. I also observe if my esthetician washed their hands. I realize that once the customer is in the treatment area, you have a captive audience, but the reason we are here is for relaxation – not to hear a sales pitch. I do appreciate learning about the products being used, but that is all. Since spas and salons typically use back bar size products, they might be 26
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a bit more cumbersome to organize. One organizing trick is to use circular displays in the room – trust me, this creates good Feng Shui. Don’t forget to use your wall space to organize products too – vertical displays help you leverage often unused space. Be sure the wall display has the shelves at eye level. Incorporating stacked shelving on your counters also is a good idea to keep random jars/bottles from being astray. I recently was in a treatment room and noticed that the products being used were on a rolling cart, which was another way to easily reach and organize the products for that customer. Think of materials too when selecting shelving or organizing systems. Wooden, bamboo structures denote health and wellness. Even in the treatment room, displaying the back bar products in a welldisplayed, organized and goal-oriented fashion in their grouping will be more appealing. Since your clients often will desire to recreate the perfect facial or other
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Have a sample area to hold products to give away in the treatment room. treatment at home, they might be intrigued to purchase the products you actually used. Leveraging samples is a great way to finish their experience and ensure a return visit will happen too. Have a sample area to hold products to give away in the treatment room. Integrating product samples to give out in the treatment room makes them them feel special. Upon check out, if a client purchases a full-size product then
spa Back Bar Beauty
providing samples of a complementary product is a way of encouraging add-on sales. Also important is to ensure the front retail area is well lit and easy to shop. And for your repeat customers, think about a change up of your display of retail products to provide new opportunities for them to take something home! It is best to analyze your sales to understand the most popular products and those should have a designated space that is easy to shop. Be sure to create a space for new or seasonally appropriate products. Above all, keep it easy to shop and simple to understand – you only have the consumers attention for a short amount of time. A few tips or draw your customer’s eye in your retail area include:
so that the packaging pops and creates eye catching displays
for clean products today, so create an area that is “clean” only. Or maybe a Vitamin C section or essential oils area.
• Place emphasis on a special display • Have displays that you can walk around – primarily round, not square to keep the flow moving. There are a few ways to organize your retail area including by routine, skin type and ingredients. • By Routine: Organize your beauty products as what do you do first in your beauty routine i.e. 1) cleansing products, scrubs, soaps, 2) masks, mud, peels, injections; 3) toners; and ending with 4) creams, serums, oils.
• Contrasting color displays are a good way to draw in a consumer’s eye.
• By Skin Type: This way the customer doesn’t have to search for what works for them or what they are looking for based on their individual needs.
• Coordinating colors for better display
• By Ingredients: People are looking
When organizing, you don’t have to focus on display systems. What is most important is that the entire area be eye appealing—lighting, product placement, customer flow, and color are the basic premises for design. Yet, if the retail shelving fits into the overall plan, then use that (to save money); if not, then selecting your own display is the way to go. Remember that clients are coming to you not just for the expertise your salon or spa offers, but for the actual environment. You can have the most talented stylists, estheticians, or massage therapists, but if your space does not match up to the same level of expertise, then clients will be lost. Do everything you can to create a space free of clutter, dirt or non-functional areas to give your customers the oasis they are seeking.
Barbara Brock is the Founder & CEO of Beauty & The Box, a company dedicated to fusing beauty with organization for the traveling woman and at home.
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Spa
NEWS
Ultra Comfort with Equipro The Equipro Ultra-Comfort spa table from MassageTools has a four-section salon top that's fully adjustable with an easy-use foot control. It's a favorite for depilation, medi-spa treatments, therapeutic massage and facial or body treatment.
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Zandi K Deck Line Bikini Scrub Sensitive
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Prevent and eliminate ingrown hairs, redness and irritation in those sensitive areas where you wax or shave. Deck Scrub Sensitive gives you the same results while being gentle enough for those with even the most delicate flowers.
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3 Glow Skincare Big Glow Cold Roller Brought to you by Kasey Boone of Glow Skincare LA and Beauty Biz BFFs, this cold roller helps reduce inflammation and puffiness!
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Blancreme Paris Body Scrub with Tonifying Grapefruit All the benefits of grapefruit combined in a deliciously toning body scrub! Its grainy texture contains sugar and pink grapefruit bark for natural, effective exfoliation.
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RISE
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PHILADELPHIA, PA March 29 & 30, 2020 Pennsylvania Convention Center
The only all-inclusive educational experience for skin care and spa professionals. Two-day ticket includes premier exhibit hall access with live Main Stage, Advanced Conferences, and Workshops.
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Marketing to Teens Tapping into teen skin care to increase revenue by David del Rio
TEEN SKIN CARE MATTERS The teen demographic is slowly becoming the largest demographic of spa clients. With an ever-increasing population, teen clients are an important source of income for spas. And with a steady flow of skin conditions to treat, such as acne, sensitivity, and reactive skin, teens are sure to benefit from increased attention from their local spas and estheticians.
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business Marketing to Teens
You'd be surprised to know that the average U.S. teen has a few thousand dollars to spend over the course of a year. It is important to recognize this group as a viable revenue stream for your spa.
Teens spend family money as well as influence their parents spending on both large and small purchases.
Young consumers play a large role in shaping consumer and beauty trends, as well. Teens are a growing market for a spa and they are now more active consumers than ever before, which provides your business with tremendous marketing opportunities.
A GROWING MARKET Recent studies have shown that teens are receiving the same ammount or more of spending money every year. It is important to note that teen spending money is affected by economical shifts in the same way that adult spending is. However, the great news for the spa 34
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industry is that teens say they want to look good no matter what. And they’re spending to prove it— nearly threequarters are spending the same or more this year on either cosmetics (70 percent), clothing (72 percent), hair products (71 percent) or skin care (74 percent). This is all great news for the spa and skin care industry! In fact, the overall amount of money families spend on teens for food, apparel, personalcare items, and entertainment is expected to grow continuously. All sectors of business are recognizing the important teen demographic, from clothing, to restaurats, food and entertainment. It's important to have a robust strategy to compete for the attention and the business of the teen demographic.
orders lead to stress, depression and social withdrawal, which could lead to even more problems. Approximately 20 million teenagers have acne. Acne can be especially emotionally devastating for teens because they are extremely conscious of their appearance and their image. Several studies have shown that acne sufferers can experience everything from decreased selfesteem and problems with body image to depression and anger. Helping teens overcome their skin care challenges creates a business model for you to capture the teen market. Successful spas are developing teen menus and/or hosting teen parties and offering special programs and services to this important group. Here are some mistakes to avoid and solutions to position your teen program for success:
MEETING TEEN DEMANDS Spas can position themselves as the source for clear and glowing skin to answer one of the biggest problems teenagers face. It’s a fact that skin dis-
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E F F E C T I V E T R E AT M E N T PROGRAMS The first mistake most spas make is they include teen services within their regu-
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lar menu. This practice does not work. Develop a separate teen menu that appeals to the youth audience while fulfilling their needs. The teen menu should have its own unique identity and imagery that connects with them on their level. Before you print your teen menu, gather a teen focus group and make sure that they like what they see and read. This will save a lot of time and money. The second mistake frequently made is offering the wrong treatment selection. According to teen surveys, teens want clearer skin, makeup lessons, fun manicures, pedicures, waxing, and education in learning how to look and feel great. When selecting your treatment options, stay away from too many massage treatments. Make teen offerings a necessity rather than pampering. We found that most parents are willing to pay for necessity and educational treatments such as facials and skin care products rather than
If you are not selling teen retail products for home care, you need to. massages or pampering treatments. If you are not selling teen retail products for home care, you need to. Acne and treating problematic skin should be your number one focus. Creating an acne program which will include a series of classes and/or spa monthly membership is the best way to position your teen spa program. You can sell a lot of products by setting them up on automatic reordering program. Create a membership program where a teen receives a monthly fa-
cial to maintain healthy looking skin. As mentioned before, many studies indicate that acne in teens is linked to depression, lack of self confidence and social withdrawal. Parents are willing to invest in services that contribute to their child’s health and well-being, Take advantage of this growing market space that is in desperate need for your services, education, and overall feel-good experiences that you can offer at your spa.
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MIAMI, FL
2019
Relive the experience of this year's International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Miami, FL!
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@akaestheticsfl Had an amazing time at the ICES show in Miami this past weekend! Feeling like Santa today bringing back so many new goodies for my clients!
@aesthesteph This experience was a blast!
alwayssmoothwaxing We had such an amazing time in Miami looking for new products and gaining knowledge on future treatments for the business! We are looking forward to showing you all the new goodies and treatments that will make your services with us even better!
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esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month!
• #MarketingMika gets her brows done at the one and only Kelley Baker Brows booth in Miami!
• The year of the lash lift! Our #estyeditor is still rocking hers…
A full year of #esty2esty is in the books! We have so enjoyed traveling the country getting to experience all that our readers have to offer their clients. From innovative facial and body treatments, to creative and inspiring entrepreneurs, we have been so lucky to be able to interact with you - all because of social media! Continue to follow us into 2020 for more awesome content and giveaways! Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!
• The ICES Main Stage rocked it this year! Thanks to our new host @beautyprofessor Rachel Anise.
• That’s a wrap! More skin care and spa content in 2020…
Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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@estheticianedit
ESTHETICIANS AROUND THE WORLD Lessons and experiences from estheticians around the globe
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French
Skin Philosophy A comparison of esthetics in the U.S. and abroad by Madeleine Mendlow
How did you become immersed in French skin care culture? I was always obsessed with skin care and beauty, but when I studied abroad in France, I found the pharmacies there to be so fascinating. There is such an abundance of good product for literally everything, and it’s accessible.
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Estheticians Around The World Guide
Do you think the overall philosophy and approach to skin care is different? How so? I think simplicity and prevention are at the core of French skin care, while in the US, I think we don’t do enough to protect ourselves early on. Later, we have to go back with all these actives to try to undo the damage we acquired earlier (like from not wearing sunscreen or from using certain apricot scrubs…). Skin care is more basic there, like brushing your teeth. It’s not something that some people will just ignore altogether.
Is the role of an esthetician different in France vs the US? How so?
What is the difference between French and US daily skin care routines? I think the French are simpler when it comes to skin care, in a good way. The focus is keeping the skin clean, healthy, and hydrated, and there aren’t as many trends or bells and whistles. Although, organic beauty is pretty trendy there at the moment. Cleansing is also very different depending on where you live. Micellar waters are an obvious French export, as are water mists, but they’re used very differently in France versus in the US. You’d use a micellar water if you’re oilier to cleanse your face and remove your makeup. If you’re drier, you’d do the same with a cleansing milk that you tissue off. Then you mist to wet your face and tissue off again to remove any leftover residue. This is what I learned specifically in Paris where the water is hard, so you try not to use the tap water on your face. Other cities are known for their water, though. There are even 44
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hydrotherapy centers in those towns to bathe in the special spring water, and it’s canned and sold to the rest of us poor souls. Then of course, there’s still serum, eye cream, the perfect moisturizer for your skin type, and incredible sunscreens. The latter two are not optional. American skin care used to be different pre-globalization. You’d cleanse, moisturize, and that’s it. We’ve since expanded into more steps, which is good, but can have so many actives. We also seem to try to throw everything in a product, while leaving our skin more irritated in the end. We don’t need to be using acids, retinoids, and more all at once, all the time. A lot of the work I do with my clients is altering their routines: I’m either trying to fit in a couple more steps for the older generations or trying to peel back all the steps that my younger clients incorporate. Although I’m seeing this change, in general we’re not as balanced here.
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This depends on the person in the US because our education isn’t as standardized across the country. I think most estheticians here have pride in what they do and keep themselves educated and up to date, but there are enough here that don’t. There’s no way to say this without coming across as negative, but because of the few estheticians that don’t stay on top of their continuing education, I don’t think we’re as trusted for advice or treatment as estheticians are in France. Sometimes, I think the general American public will see an esthetician to come get a facial to relax, or to get waxed. I don’t think we’re necessarily seen as problem-solvers when it comes to skin, even though most of us are perfectly capable. When we have a skin problem, our first stop is our doctor, not our pharmacist or esthetician.
Is the esthetics education different here? Is it more or less intensive? How so? Estheticians in France definitely have more extensive training. It’s almost like an associate’s degree, but even longer. Hours vary here by state, and we can get advanced training, but we generally only get about six months of training, while they can have more than
Estheticians Around The World Guide
I think we could stand to look at our lines as a life well-lived or as the signs of wisdom that they are. What are some French skin care rituals you use in your everyday life? three years. They also learn tanning (hopefully fake), more extensive waxing techniques, manicuring, and how to help people find perfume. There’s also a way bigger focus on body treatment. We don’t really emphasize that here unless you’re in massage school. I’d say there’s a bigger scope of practice for which you need more training.
What is one thing that we can all learn from the French about skin care? There’s so much, but I would say to know your skin and ask an expert what you should use for it.
Do you see a difference in French vs US skin care products? The gaps have narrowed with globalization and consumer demand, but I think French products are way more personalized than American ones. American brands seem to focus so much on marketing the product and selling, but French products seem to target skin types and concerns way better. There’s a different texture of cream or cleanser for everyone in French skin care. Here, we seem to have a brand make one line of products with one cleanser or one moisturizer, have this
“superstar” ingredient, put it in flashy packaging, and try to sell it to everyone no matter what their skin is doing, to the consumer’s detriment. We have some amazing skin care in the US that has evidence-based ingredients, is fragrance-free, and is simple. In France, those products would be placed at eye level in the store, but here they’re tucked in the bottom shelves because they’re not as marketable. Typically, you wouldn’t dig for them unless your dermatologist told you to.
Is the anti-aging approach different between the two cultures? One of my favorite things about the French is how they embrace aging: It’s something we hopefully all do, so do it gracefully. They have anti-aging products like everyone else, but it’s not like in the US where you’d think wrinkles are the worst thing that could happen to you. We are so aggressive when it comes to treating signs of aging here, like with Botox, fillers, and peels. I don’t think it’s wrong that we have that – do what you need to feel amazing. However, sometimes I think we could stand to look at our lines as a life well-lived or as the signs of wisdom that they are.
I focus on hydrating my skin, reducing irritation, and applying sunscreen. Sunscreen is what I stock up on when I’m in France because we don’t have as photostable chemical filters here.
Where do French women get most of their skincare products and advice? The pharmacy, hands down. You can walk into any pharmacie, or parapharmacie, tell the pharmacist what is happening with your face (or other ailments for that matter), and they’ll tell you everything you need to be using. You’ll also get some great family advice: My host-mom would share her favorite brands with me, and which spring water was indeed the best. We’re not so different after all.
Madeleine Mendlow is currently a first-year medical student in South Carolina. She received her B.A. in Romance Languages and Literature and International Studies from the University of Michigan and completed her CIDESCO esthetician training at Cinta Aveda in San Francisco. In addition to skin, she is passionate about lifestyle medicine and women’s health
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ESTY EXPERIENCE with Nerida Joy
Her experience studying esthetics at Ella Bache school in Australia Where did you first study esthetics? I trained at Ella Bache in Australia, where I graduated in 1978.
Did you enjoy your esthetics studies? I always felt that it was such an honor to be there. It was a very professional environment and European-based trained. It was very different from schools here in the U.S., having visited many myself since I’ve been here.
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Guide Estheticians Around The World Guide
How was the learning environment different than at Beauty Schools here in the U.S.? It was a different experience over there because there was a big emphasis on professionalism. It was actually very strict. We had to wear a certain uniform, have your hair tied back, your nails a certain way and wear certain shoes. There was a big emphasis on having a clean presentation in the way you looked.
What did your training emphasize? We spent a lot of time on treatment. Of course technical skill was important but a huge percentage of our time was on treatment and doing different treatments on clients and understanding the flow and massage. We didn’t spend as much as on sterilization like school do here, but that could be because it was 41 years ago before the AIDS epidemic, etc.
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Technology is also an important part of esthetics training. How much emphasis was there on the use of technology during your training? There was a lot of machine training. In Australia, you can use machines that you can’t use over here unless you are a nurse or a doctor so that was huge benefit to us estys.
You are also a big proponent of massage, both facial and body, and frequently speak about massage in your educational videos. Were you trained on massage in esthetics school? There was an enormous amount of emphasis on massage. Body massage was also a part of our training. Our training is longer - mine was a year. It was full time five days a week. So we also learned nails and body massage. Even though it was Swedish massage, the course as a whole was a little bit broad-
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There was an enormous amount of emphasis on massage. er. There was also a lot of emphasis on hands on treatments.
How much client interaction did you have as a student? Skin analysis and how the body and the skin work together was a big part of our training. We performed a lot of treatments to learn the flow and become more fluid. There was a lot of emphasis on how you react with your clients and learning how to talk to your clients and how to represent yourself.
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Estheticians Around The World Guide
Brow Design Around the World Barbie Zarraga from Browaholic shares her experience in Venezuela
Becoming a skin care specialist and eyebrow expert while moving from Venezuela to the U.S. was a very interesting transition. My experiences with beauty schools in both countries were actually very different from each other. Living in Venezuela and before the rise of social media, it was difficult to learn about the latest beauty trends, treatments and techniques that were forming in the U.S. We didn’t really have access to hands-on education from the trendsetters. So, estheticians like myself would learn about the trends months after they became popular and we tried to learn the techniques however we could by our own means. Venezuela somewhat has adapted their traditions and culture from the Europeans. This is where we got most of our beauty trends as well. Most of the products we used and the techniques we learned in our training were from places like Spain and Italy. They were still old and dated
techniques, since all of our education was based on our textbook, which wasn’t always up to date. Once I came to the U.S., I found that studying here was definitely more enriching and more nourishing! In school, we had the chance to visit other salons and businesses so we could have a more clear idea of what to expect when we graduated and started salons of our own. Also, one of the things that I value the most from school was how detailed and clear they were about sterilization and the importance of having a clean workstation, something that was not always emphasized in my training in Venezuela. Both experiences were great and I can say I learnt a lot from the two of them. No matter where you study, educating yourself is always a worthwhile experience and the mix of education and experience I gained from both countries as shaped me into the artist and businesswoman I am today! LNEonline.com
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Luxurious Skin Oils! Facial, body and CBD oils are trending this year... 4
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6. Lavender Body Oil • Plantlife • plantlife.net 7. Luminous Glow CBD Face Oil • Nature Pure Clinical Skincare • naturepure.com 8. Facial Nectar • Sorella Apothecary • sorellaapothecary.com 9. CBD Serum Calming Face Oil • Zatik Naturals • zatiknatural.com 10. Beauty Infusion Tumeric & Blueberry • skinauthority • skinauthority.com 11. Freedom Fighter Antioxidant Face Oil • Free & True Skincare • freeandtrueskincare.com 12. Moisture Replenish Water Soothe Facial Oil • Elemental Herbology • elementalherbology.com LNEonline.com
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CLARITY # Dallascongress20
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DALLAS, TX April 5 & 6, 2020
Hilton Anatole & Convention Center
The only all-inclusive educational experience for skin care and spa professionals. Two-day ticket includes premier exhibit hall access with live Main Stage, Advanced Conferences, and Workshops.
Business Conference • Makeup Conference • Lash Conference Workshops • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
SPONSORED BY
Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com • USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664 LNEonline.com
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CRANBERRY SKIN CARE Festive holiday berries for the skin by Aurora Solis
Cranberries can be found on holiday dinner tables around the country this time of year. This bright, juicy berry is a seasonal staple! From holiday tree dÊcor to fruity sauces and cocktails, we just can’t get enough cranberries during the winter. And for good reason! Cranberry is full of amazing health and skin benefits! Here are a few reasons why you should craft a cranberry-based treatment this season: Cranberries grow on an evergreen-like shrub in the marshes and wetland of northeastern North America. Growing in low bushes with wiry green stems, you will find bustles of pink flowers signaling the presence of berries. These deep red berries are somewhat egg-shaped. Once ripe, they are water-harvested between September and November, just in time for the holiday season! The harvesting process exposes the berries to sunlight, further ripening their high nutrient-profile. In fact, ripe cranberries were often used by early indigenous people as medicine because of their nutritional benefits.
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organic & wellness Cranberry Skin Care
A Super Berry Cranberries have among the highest concentrations of antioxidants of any fruit or vegetable - even higher than common grocery store staples like strawberries, broccoli and spinach. Additionally, cranberries are a great source of vitamins C, E and K. They are also rich in manganese and fiber. Also a rich source of essential fatty acids, cranberries are often used in beauty and skin care products to treat dryness, boost radiance and improve the look of elasticity.
Cranberry Skin Care Benefits Cranberries are packed with vital skin nutrients. Here are just a few ways that cranberries contribute to overall healthy skin: 1. ANTIOXIDANT PROTECTION Cranberries have a high antioxidant content. Antioxidants are essential for protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. These ripe red berries are especially full of polyphenols,
vitamin C and vitamin E, which all help guard against free radicals and signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C is particularly essential in the production of collage, which gives skin strength and firmness. Because our bodies lost the ability to manufacture Vitamin C millions of years ago, dietary and topical Vitamin C is our only source of this essential nutrient. According to SF Gate, one cup of unsweetened cranberry juice provides 23.5 milligrams of Vitamin C, or 31 percent of the daily recommended value for women. 2. ESSENTIAL HYDRATION
Dr. Jeff Collagen Treatment with Freeze-Dried Collagen Mask
Cranberries are the only berries with the ideal ratio of fatty acids omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9. This ratio enables cranberry seed oil to absorb effortlessly into skin, allowing its antioxidants to penetrate more deeply and providing skin with intense hydration. These essential fatty acids are key to keeping the skin’s moisture barrier intact, locking in hydration and keeping out environmental irritants. By keeping skin plump and hydrated, cranberry works wonders for rough, dry and aging skin. 3. GENTLE ACNE FIGHTER Cranberries are also a good source of flavonoids and surprisingly - beta hydroxyl acid! This gives cranberries astringent and antiseptic properties which help reduce oil production, clear pore blockages and minimize the appreance of pores.
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Cleanser, Toner, Exfoliant Massage, Serum, Ampoule Mask, Moisturizer
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Cranberries also have trace minerals including potassium, manganese, and anti-inflammatory properties, which help prevent collagen break down and can blunt breakouts for those prone to adult acne. Vitamins C, B3 and arbutin also contribute to improving the appearance of problem skin by brightening the look of scars and dark marks left behind by breakouts.
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CUSTOM AYURVEDIC FACIAL Mukhabhyanga traditional treatment by Anabel de la Vega 62
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Mukhabhyanga is an Indian treatment that combines ancient theory with a practical approach using various herbal substances and massage to achieve remarkable results. This customized facial is created after an analysis of the skin, which determines what herbs and oils should be applied. These herbs and oils are then massaged in until they are completely absorbed by the skin. An herbal pack or mask is applied on the face and assists in softening wrinkles of the skin, lightening spots and reducing pimples and acne. This facial pack improves the complexion, and increases the softness and luster of the skin. Beauty is restored along with a youthful freshness to the face. This treatment includes a facial massage for 20 minutes, followed with steam for 15 minutes, an application of an herbal face pack for 20 minutes, and finishes with a 5 minute herbal wash. The herbal pack and cleanser contains various and unique herbs made into a paste. For 60 minutes of nourishment to the skin, this treatment allows the client to improve their complexion, but also lets them slow down, relax and drift into a state of relaxation.
Mukhalepam Mukhalepam is one of the most beneficial Ayurvedic treatments for the skin. The mixing of the
herbs will leave the skin smooth, fresh and relieved of any acne and blemishes.
Abhyanga Abhyanga is a massage based on knowledge of the body’s marma points. These are vital points of the body where muscles, nerves, blood vessels, joints, ligaments and bones meet. Abhyanga is a potent Ayurvedic skin restorative massage that nurtures the skin and makes it look clear, radiant and youthful. Ayurveda identifies seven vital tissues that provide nourishment, growth and structure to the entire body. These tissue layers, called dhatus, are strikingly similar to the major tissues identified by modern science. Ayurveda expands upon modern interpretation, however, by also including tissues in liquid form. The seven dhatus are:
1. Plasma (Rasa) 2. Blood (Rakta) 3. Muscle (Mamsa) 4. Fat (Meda) 5. Bone (Asthi) 6. Bone marrow and nerve (Majja) 7. Reproductive fluid (Shukra)
The combination of these two treatments brings up a new technique and an amazing facial massage.
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organic & wellness Custom Ayurvedic Facial
and provides strength to a weakened immune system. In addition, ashwagandha provides the following benefits: • Works in suppressing pain. • Possesses an anti-inflammatory substance that helps reduce swelling and restores blood supply. • Heals skin. • Prevents early aging. • Provides youthful benefits. • Possesses antioxidant properties. • Tames tension headaches. • Stimulates the immune system cells. Additional healing ingredients that reduce puffiness, inflammation, irritation, clogged pores, allergies and other skin problems will need to either be boiled or steamed for maximum efficacy. Many therapists roll the herbs for moxibustion therapy and work over each meridian point for additional benefits. The key herbs to blend and create masks and packs are:
Cleansing and purifying Different combinations of herbs are blended to cleanse and purify the skin. The benefits of working with various fresh herbs are that you can be as creative as you want and customize the facial to meet the client's immediate request. For a more authentic treatment, work with traditional Indian herbs such as Ayurveda sweet flag and licorice as they keep skin young and have antimicrobial properties. Lodhra, the bark of the tree, has a cooling effect and is a mild astringent. The herb is an antimicrobial agent as it inhibits the growth of E. coli and staphylococci bacteria. Herbal packs can be used with great results for pimples, scars and other skin problems. They are usually made of orange oil, neem, lemon oil, rosewater, bentonite clay and sandalwood oil, and help remove impurities and toxins from the skin. Neem has antibacterial properties and helps to prevent acne. Rosewater soothes the skin, and lemon and orange oil are good astringents. 64
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Clove and ashwagandha are very effective in treating pimples and scars, and are suitable for clients with oily skin. Clove helps in smoothing and purifying the skin. Clove oil is naturally extracted from cloves and also has shown some promise as a pimple fighter. Clove oil contains a substance called eugenol, which has antibacterial properties, clears cystic acne, reduces swelling and kills infection. It has a pleasant smell, but is very potent. The mixture of these herbs imparts anti-inflammatory benefits and exposes the skin to antioxidants that fight against free radicals and prevent damage to the body's cells. These herbs have a medicinal effect on the skin. With a variety of assorted treatments, a therapist can customize an herbal mask or pack for each skin type. Ashwagandha is found in India and it is a powerful root that has an earthy aroma, which often mimics the smell of a horse. This root vitalizes the body
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• Racemosa • Glycyrrhiza • Glabra • Acorus • Calamus • Acai • Charcoal powder • Alfalfa leaf • Allspice ground • Bamboo green rice • Barberry bark • Barley grass powder • Basil leaf paprika • Calamus root • Calendula petals • Camu berry • Cat’s claw bark powder • Thyme • Rosemary • Basil These herbs have a medicinal effect on the skin. With a variety of assorted treatments, a therapist can customize an herbal mask/pack for each skin type.
organic & wellness Custom Ayurvedic Facial
6. Remove mask. 7. Apply almond oil and massage face. 8. Remove oil. 9. Tone the skin with herbs toner.
Mukhalepam Mukhalepam is one of the most beneficial Ayurvedic treatments for the skin. The mixing of these herbs leaves the skin smooth, fresh and relieved of any acne or blemishes. T h e f o l l o w i n g a re o i l s u s e d i n mukhalepam: • Almond oil • Aloe butter • Apricot kernel oil • Argan oil • Avocado oil • Calendula oil • Sweet almond • White camellia seed oil • Grapeseed oil • Jojoba oil • Lanolin • Neem oil • Rosehip seed
Application of ingredients in mukhalepam according to skin type Oily to dry skin: Aloe butter All skin types: Almond oil, apricot kernel oil, jojoba oil Combination skin: Argan oil Sensitive skin: Avocado oil, rosehip seed oil Sensitive/dry/dehydrated skin: Calendula oil Dry skin: Sweet almond, lanolin Oily skin: Grapeseed oil Acne skin: Neem oil Aging/mature skin: White camellia seed oil
Benefits of Abhyanga massage • Imparts softness, strength and color to the skin • Decreases the effects of aging • Nourishes the body and face • Benefits sleep patterns • Imparts a firmness to the limbs • Stimulates internal organs of the body • Removes facial wrinkles
In addition, the combined effects of Abhyanga and Mukhalepam provide a total relaxation experience for the muscles of the face and body, bringing elasticity and preventing wrinkles. The Mukhabhyanga treatment: • Relieves stress • Helps insomnia • Improves well-being • Rejuvenates • Diminishes pimples • Helps hyperpigmentation • Reduces swelling • Reduces pain • Alleviates skin infections due to acne problems
The first step is to exfoliate the face with silk gloves, in order to remove the dead cells attached on the skin, followed by a cleansing herbal liquid made of pure natural herbs. It is going to penetrate the skin and cleanse at the same time the toxins that are on the skin. The polish we used removes any excess remaining dead cells (Keratinocytes) leaving the skin smooth and fresh for the massage. Applying the mask, which is made with antiseptic herbs, the skin now is ready to benourished and revitalized. Leaving the mask on for at least 20 minutes, we followed with hot stones on the neck, hands, feet and solar plexus. This is to relax the customer and at the same time to release tension and work on some pressure points. Some special oils are used for the massage. After 20 minutes, we continue to remove the mask with warm water, followed by an Abhyanga massage with almond oil to relieve stress, rejuvenate and help on skin infections. We remove the oil with lukewarm water and soft towels and apply an herbal toner. Special oils used: • Almond oil • Sesame oil • Coconut oil
Step by step 1. Exfoliate face with silk gloves. 2. Apply an herbal cleansing liquid. 3. Polish the skin with scrub (made of herbs).
4. Apply mask (made of herbs). 5. Apply hot stones on neck, feet,
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Organic & Wellness
NEWS 2
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WELL Body Polish 100 mg CBD
Code of Harmony Chill Gel Masque
This Himalayan and French Grey Sea Salt Scrub is known to help detoxify the body and help improve hydration. This mixture increases circulation, assists in the rejuvenation of your cells, leaving not only your skin revived, but your mind, body & spirit refreshed as well.
Code of Harmony Chill Gel Masque is the ultimate skin de-stressing treatment, They combined CBD + Hyaluronic Acid into a slippery-soft skin conditioning masque.
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Bath Asana Deeply Hydrating Cannabidol & Marula Oil Face Serum
BioMilk Daily Serum This ProbioNutrium Complex is proven to boost your skin collagen production for a visibly healthier, youthful appearance.
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This luxuriously potent skin therapy is power-packed with 18 skin-loving ingredients, beneficial actives including nutrient-rich CBD. This synthesis is molecularly sleek to deliver effortlessly smooth and supple skin.
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CLEAN
BEAUTY Makeup Sanitation in the Spa by Maria Camille Arias
Sanitation is of great concern in the skin care, spa and makeup industries. Esthetics schools dedicate a large portion of their students’ learning to sanitation practices, and it is often required annually as part of license renewal for many specialists. The purpose of sanitation in the makeup field is mainly prevention of spreadable diseases between clients and artists. Ensuring your tools and product remain uncontaminated is an essential part of being a true professional. Although contamination from a professional makeup kit is rare, it still deserves your full attention and awareness as a duty to your clients to use the utmost care in protecting and preserving their skin health.
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image Clean Beauty
Sharing is caring, but not when it comes to makeup. Makeup applicators, brushes, mascara wands, puffs and sponges are waiting breading grounds for bacteria that can be transferred to makeup to skin and back again. Eye infections are some of the most common makeup-related injuries. Commonly spread diseases include conjunctivitis (pink eye), cold sores (herpes simplex lesion), viral gastrointestinal infections and meningitis (typically from lip gloss). Eye makeup runs the highest risk of contamination and the eye area is particularly susceptible to infection. Clients may also suffer from common underlying eye problems such as blepharitis (an inflammation of the lid margin) and dry eye, making them less tolerant of contaminated makeup that can invade the tear film. Lip products can spread germs from saliva and lip infections. Liquids and creams are easily contaminated and may be impossible to sanitize. Did you know that the most common cosmetic-related injury is caused by unsafe mascara application? An untreated corneal scratch by a mascara wand can lead to infections, corneal ulcers and in rare cases, blindness. Clients that sleep without removing mascara run the risk of flakes falling into the eye, causing itchy, bloodshot eyes as well as infections and corneal scratching. These injuries are easy to avoid. Encourage clients to apply mascara only when stationary, and remove eye makeup before bed. As professionals, you should develop a set of practices that ensure your makeup applications are bacteria and infection free for all clients. This involves setting up your kit in an organized and clean fashion, and repeating sanitation practices frequently and between all cli-
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ents. Here are some simple steps you can add to your daily routine:
1 Always, always wash your hands before touching a client. This is a given, but it bears repeating. For good measure, always wash up before touching your own face as well. 2 Choose your products wisely. Foundations with pump as opposed to screw-off caps are less susceptible to contamination. Toss sponges and puffs after each client, or opt for new silicone varieties on the market today that can be easily cleaned and disinfected. 3 Keep your station organized. Put away products after using them to avoid exposure to air and bacteria unnecessarily.
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4 Wash your brushes! Some of us find this task therapeutic, some a chore. But makeup brushes harbor so much bacteria- it’s essential! Each client deserves the respect of having clean brushes used on them.
5 If your makeup comes in contact with a client who is sick or has an infection, it is advised to get rid of any potentially contaminated product. At the very list, throw away the mascara, eyeliner and any product used on the eyes.
6 Store your makeup in a cool, dry place, away from moisture and heat. Warm, moist makeup is a breeding ground for bacteria. Keep makeup containers closed tight, out of sunlight and avoid temperatures that exceed 85° F. Excess heat can ruin makeup and its preservatives.
image Clean Beauty
7 It is not recommended to add liquid to product unless explicitly directed in the product instructions.
8 Don’t pump your mascara! This causes air to be driven into the tube that may be full of micro-organisms or promote the growth of bacteria that’s already there.
9 Research how your chosen products are manufactured. According to the FDA, many cases of contamination are due to manufacturers using poorly designed, ineffective preservative systems, and not testing the stability of the preservatives during the product's customary shelf life and under normal use conditions. 10 Be mindful of product shelf life. Throw makeup away if the color changes or an odor develops. Separation
doesn’t necessarily mean that a product has spoiled, but if the product does no incorporate after shaking, it’s best to throw it away. These are the basic and simple recommendations for your personal kit, but they are simply not enough for professional makeup artists or for retail displays in which testers are accessible to the general public. In a retail setting, you may think that using a disposable applicator for testing makeup is sufficient, but there’s no guarantee that the product isn’t already contaminated. If you want to test a product, ask for a new tester. If you’ve no option but to use an open cosmetic tester, never apply it to skin that’s broken or abraded. In all cases, keep it away from your lips and eyes. Given that preservatives help keep makeup safe, think carefully before using a tester of preservativefree makeup.
Preservatives are one of the modern marvels that help keep our makeup safe and clean. Infection is less common because products have superior preservatives that protect the formula. While the use of preservatives is a controversial subject among some environmentally conscious artists and professionals, it’s undeniable that preservatives protect consumers and help maintain product integrity by combating microbial growth. Products advertised as preservativefree may actually be less healthful than their chemically enhanced counterparts. Most makeup artists are highly attentive to maintain sanitation standards in their professional practice. The hygiene of their tools is of the utmost concern. In some schools, artists are encouraged to maintain minimal hand to skin contact with their clients, and enforce heavy use of brushes and disposable applicators.
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image Clean Beauty
Products are mixed on a palette with a spatula; application is with a brush that is sanitized after every client; and disposable mascara wands are dipped once into a container and then discarded. Clients should be made aware of the artist’s dedication to cleanliness and should feel free to ask any questions about the artist’s sanitation practices. The sanitization process can sometimes be a challenge. Frequently, the only effective solution is a high concentration of alcohol- between 70 and 95 percent. Alcohol works effectively to kill 99.9 percent of bacteria when applied and let dry for 30 seconds. Artists should not use any products with less than 70 percent alcohol. Many alcohol-based brush cleaners contain emollients that limit the drying effect of alcohol on brushes, but the 72
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formula may not be 70 per cent alcohol. For pencils, sharpen between each client with a sharpener that’s been sanitized before use. Emulsions, creams and pastes cannot be sanitized and it’s questionable if you can sanitize a pressed powder product without compromising its performance. Lipstick, brushes and mixing palettes can be sanitized by using a 70 percent or greater alcohol solution and scrapping off a layer of product between each client appointment. The occurrence of any contamination or infection on behalf of a client should always be met with a recommendation for medical care. In a retail setting, infection is commonly due to consumers not utilizing the proper tools when scooping out tester products or contaminating lipsticks, etc. If this has
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occurred in your practice, it is likely that the client or customer will blame the practice for their infection. Legally, causation must be proven with connects a cause and effect to the injury or infection. Typically, it is difficult to prove because clients use many products from different place simultaneously. It is rare that an artist or a location would face legal repercussions, but it is wise to have a protocol in place for such occasions. Makeup and skin care professional who retail or use makeup in their practice should have an established sanitization protocol in place to prevent any such problems. Consider creating a checklist for your own personal use or to implement for artists working under you to help commit to memory these 10 steps to clean beauty!
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NEWS
2
Nicck Townsend Precision Brow Kit
1
This all-you-need kit includes Nicck’s PRECISION pointer tweezer, slant tweezer and PRECISION brow scissors.
Niccktownsend.com
Roccoco Botanicals Pomegranate Eye Balm Roccoco Pomegranate Eye Balm is a rich cream infused with pomegranate, peptides and antioxidants. The balm helps to rebuild the skin around the eye area to reduce creasing and fine lines as well as expression wrinkles.
roccoco.com
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New at Glo Skin Beauty Glo Skin Beauty is honored to announce Sharon Collier has joined as CEO of the company. Sharon brings 30+ years of deep expertise in the beauty space.
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Osmosis Beauty Holiday Hues Lip Kit. This holiday kit includes three of Osmosis’ Lip Intensives: Desire Me, Have Me, and Kiss Me.
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gloskinbeauty.com
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Page Number
35................. Advanced Esthetics / Adonyss........................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 37................. Agera Laboratorie....................................................................................................................... ageralabs.com 76................. Altair Instruments..............................................................................................................altairinstruments.com 36................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics................................................................................. beauinstitute.com 5................... Celluma......................................................................................................................................biophotas.com 61................. Circadia...........................................................................................................................................circadia.com 60.................Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc................................................................................................................dr-jeff.com 2,3................ Eminence Organic Skin Care.........................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 75................. Equipro USA............................................................................................................................ equipro-bty.com 9................... G.M. Collin Skin Care.................................................................................................................. gmcollin.com 49................. Grande Cosmetics............................................................................................................... grandelashmd.com 30, 31........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia............................................Philadelphia.skincareshows.com 56, 57........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas................................................................Dallas.skincareshows.com 67................. Rejuvi Laboratory.......................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 17................. Shira Cosmetics.................................................................................................................... shiraesthetics.com 27................. Skin Script Skin Care................................................................................................................. skinscriptrx.com 7................... Viktoria Dé Ann.................................................................................................................... viktoriadeann.com
*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
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