LNE & Spa November 2019 by LNE Magazine

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FROM THE

EDITOR

All I want for Christmas is…perfect skin! All of our clients have this item on their wish list this year. But how can you help them achieve their skin goals this holiday season? Luckily, as the weather cools down and beach vacations turn into cabin and ski trips, it’s the perfect time to gear up your lasers, peels and medical grade treatments for acne, hyperpigmentation and skin smoothing. The winter is the ideal time to kick your clients’ treatment protocol up a notch. With a minimized risk of sun damage, treatments that leave clients more vulnerable, such as laser hair removal and chemical peels, are best done in the winter months when clients tend to spend more time indoors. So, make sure your protocols are in check and prepare enticing treatment packages to help your clients commit to

PLAN AHEAD AND SCHEDULE YOUR SHOW EXPERIENCE TODAY!

checking perfect skin off of their Christmas list this year. If you are picking up this issue of LNE & Spa at The

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on November 3rd and 4th, hello! Thank you so much

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Managing Editor

mcristina@LNEonline.com 4

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November volume 34 number 11

contents 4

From the Editor Advertiser Index

10 Life of the Melanocyte

What is Speed Waxing

16 Hello, Fall!

Simply the Best

Head to Toe

Hair Removal Photo Feature

24 Skin News

10 Life of the Melanocyte

Natural vs. Naturally Derived

Spa News

Eczema and Chinese Medicine

Organic & Wellness News

o&w

Spa of the Month

spa business

41 Hair Removal Guide

26 Spa Of The Month

58 Natural vs. Naturally Derived

If You Fail to Plan…

Winter Beauty Trends

Tradeshow Talk

Image News

#esty2esty

image

skin

20 Skin Q&A

guide

30 If You Fail to Plan…

68 Winter Beauty Trends

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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VISIT US AT MIAMI ICES BOOTH #303

3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Elizabeth Canler elizabeth@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Cassandra Lanning Cristina Beecham Dr. Carl Thornfeldt Dr. Steven Wang

Jeanette Acosta Mary Gendron Pamela Jeschonek

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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Why and how to protect melanocyte cells by Cassandra Lanning

Melanocytes live at the bottom of your epidermis, in the basal layer. They share space with your keratinocyte mother cells. About one in ten of your cells in the basal layer are melanocytes, the rest are keratinocytes. Melanocytes are smaller than keratinocytes. The keratinocytes divide and create daughter cells which migrate up the layers of the epidermis and eventually become the stratum corneum.

LIFE OF THE

MELANOCYTE

skin Life of the Melanocyte

Our keratinocyte replenishment is infinite. If it wasn’t, we would die. Melanocytes however, are NOT infinite. They are finite. You have a limited number of them. Up until you are about 18, you do renew your melanocytes. But after age 18, what you have is what you will have for the rest of your life. You will not get more if you damage them. Additionally, the number of melanocytes in the skin decreases with age, at a reduction of eight percent to 10 percent per decade of life, which is about the same rate of decline as the dermis. They will die off even faster if you don’t care for them and protect them.

DENDRITES Each melanocyte in the basal layer has long arms called dendrites; they make the melanocyte look like a little squid. The dendrites usually reach out and touch about 30-36 individual kerati12

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nocytes in the surrounding area. One single melanocyte is the sole protector of 30-36 skin cells! That is a lot of work! It’s a lot of work if the melanocyte makes regular brown pigment (eumelanin), but it’s even more work if the melanocyte makes red pigment (pheomelanin). Pheomelanin takes more energy to make because it takes one extra step to make it. Imagine having to do one extra step for every single pigment granule in every single melanosome in every single melanocyte. That’s a lot of oxidative stress on those poor redheads, and that uses up cells' antioxidant stores! Now you can understand why redheads always seem to have that inflammation in their skin. UVR exposure also causes the melanocyte to try to place pigment higher into the spinosum layer. This can result in malformed dendrites and can be responsible for uneven deposition of pigment throughout the spinosum layer, leaving you with an uneven skin tone.

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The number of melanocytes in the skin decreases with age. The melanocyte’s dendrites have to remain flexible in order to stretch out to reach out and touch all 30-36 keratinocytes and create an even skin tone. But what happens if the dendrites are not flexible? They shrink! So instead of reaching all 36 keratinocytes to provide an even skin tone, they may only reach 20, or 15, or even just 10. What do you think that looks like? A spot!

CELL MEMBRANE So how do dendrites shrink? Well, first, let’s talk about what they are made of. Cell membranes, including

skin Life of the Melanocyte dendrites, are made from phospholipids, cholesterol, and protein, basically, fats and proteins. Cholesterol makes the cell membrane stronger and more flexible, and the phospholipids make it fluid. Fatty acids are a component of phospholipids that can be gotten from dietary intake, namely Omega-3 fatty acids. So Omega-3s help to make cell membranes, and dendrites, more fluid. This allows the dendrites to stretch farther. So if you are getting spots, your dendrites might be shrinking because you may not be eating enough Omega 3s. Your shrinking dendrites are affecting the ability of the melanocyte to transfer melanosomes to all the keratinocytes it’s supposed to protect. Not only does this leave you with spots, it also leaves some of your cells unprotected. In addition to functioning as a “skin” for each cell — keeping the insides in and the outsides out — a phospholipid membrane also provides protection from chemicals and pathogens that can derail and/or destroy the necessary life functions that take place within each cell. While performing this function, phospholipid membranes are subject to constant attack from free-rad-

icals (oxidants), pathogens, and toxins. UV radiation is one such oxidant. Upon exposure to UVR, the pheomelanin in a redhead oxidizes and creates superoxide anion free-radicals, which is a group of reactive oxygen species. These freeradicals can damage nearby skin cells, including the DNA of the melanocytes and the keratinocyte stem cells.

DNA DAMAGE DNA damage is a condition where the cell’s memory is impaired, resulting in a continuing cellular replication with the same damage, sort of like OCD, repetitive behaviour. This type of damage happens at the mitochondria level, and can happen at any age. It is the most difficult to repair. Solar lentigos and vitiligo are examples of DNA damaged melanocytes. Another form of DNA damage is called melanocyte cellular senescence. Senescence is like Alzheimer’s of the cell. This is when the melanocyte is still alive, but is old, and has become distorted in both form and function because of what you exposed it to throughout your life. Melanocytes are long living and slow cycling, and this

can mean that cellular senescence can continue for a long time. Melanocyte cellular senescence will cause the melanocyte to behave erratically, producing pigmented areas of varying sizes and shapes. They will be found more often in older clients, who have a history of extensive sun exposure, chemical abuse, or possess the red head gene. An example of pigmentation caused by cellular senescence is Poikiloderma. DNA damage by UVR is the major aggravating factor of excessive pigmentation. If the DNA has been damaged, then that melanocyte will always have the potential to produce more melanosomes and pigment granules, which mean the cell is under constant oxidative stress to produce protective pigment versus normal skin tone pigment.

OTHER STRESSORS *Melanin-stimulating-hormone (MSH) MSH production is increased by exposure to UV light. UVR causes an MSH cascade, which is an uncontrolled chemical stimulation of the pituitary gland. MSH accelerates the melanogenesis process. This process causes the MSH to continually form the pigment-carrying melanosomes inside the melanocyte. It was found that after UV exposure, the number of MSH receptors on the melanocytes increased threefold. This equals MORE oxidative stress! And guess what? Pituitary stimulation happens through the retina of your eyes! But alas, even sunglasses won’t stop the UV rays from getting into your head because light gets in through the sides. Invest in a pair of polarized lenses for optimal protection. *Endothelin Endothelin is released by the keratinocyte upon UV exposure. It then binds to receptors on the melanocyte and stimulates melanogenesis, and boosts tyrosinase. Tyrosinase is an enzyme needed to help create pigment. It needs an oxidized atmosphere to work, so blocking it with antioxidants is key. Again, this is

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skin Life of the Melanocyte oxidative stress that is stressing the melanocyte, in addition to making it work harder to create more melanosomes.

ter phase (1). Oxidative stress leads to the loss of water-soluble antioxidants (vitamin C) and nutrients in the cell membrane. Then the aging progresses to the lipid layer of the cell membrane (2), it is the oxidation of all the lipids found within the cell membrane and loss of the oil soluble antioxidants. If lipid peroxidation is allowed to compound, it will affect the outer membrane of the mitochondria, and because they are connected, the inner membrane could be affected as well. If the mitochondria membrane is affected it may become permanently damaged, leaving cellular memory and energy production at risk for further damage (3). Mitochondria aging happens when built in defense systems decline with age or loss is accelerated by lifestyle

*Other influencers There are other things that influence the production of melanin as well. Hormones, antibiotics, NSAIDs, essential oils, fragrances, antiseptics, disinfectants, certain sunscreens, systemic drugs, and acne medication can also stimulate the production of melanin as well as reduce burn time. And don’t forget pigment stimulation caused by physical trauma to the skin.

OXIDATIVE STRESS So what is oxidative stress? There are 5 levels of cellular aging. A cell ages from the outside, inwards. It starts with the oxidation of the wa-

and compounded by neglect. The complete cell is affected (4). Cellular senescence is Alzheimer's of the complete cell (5).

CONCLUSION Melanocytes are a long-lived cell with a finite supply. They take the abuses and ravages of life that we deal them and they work hard to keep us safe and protected. Do you really think a tomato and a floppy hat are all the protection they deserve? Don’t you think they deserve the addition of a topical physical sunscreen that can assist in reducing the oxidative stress load on this amazing cell? I hope that you will consider the needs of your melanocytes the next time you go outside without your sunscreen.

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Hello, Fall! Treatments for Sun-Stressed Skin by Mary Gendron

As the long, lazy days of summer give way to crisp autumn weather, it’s not only the memories of sun-splashed adventures that linger, but the lasting effects of all that time in the sun on the skin. So, take that first falling leaf as a signal that it’s time for a healthy, rejuvenating dose of hydration and exfoliation. Here are some of the best treatments for sunstressed skin that, as luck would have it, are available at some of the top resort spas across the U.S.:

• Oxygen Hydrating Treatment at The Spa at Pebble Beach, Pebble Beach Resorts.

Home to one of only 60 spas in the world to receive the coveted Forbes Five-Star Award, Pebble Beach Resorts offers a wellness experience as bucket-list-worthy as its legendary golf courses. The Spa at Pebble Beach’s Oxygen Hydrating Treatment exfoliates post-summer skin with a Vitamin C peel infused with hyaluronic acid, collagen and oxygen. It plumps fine lines and wrinkles and leaves the spa-goer with a radiant glow to match the magnificent California sunset.

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skin Hello, Fall!

• HydraFacial™ at SiSpa, Palm Beach Marriott Singer Island Beach Resort & Spa.

The sea-inspired SiSpa at this Florida beachfront resort treats summerstressed skin with the HydraFacial™, a celebrity favorite that combines cleansing, exfoliation, extraction and hydration in one quick, non-invasive treatment. Designed for all skin types, it specifically targets everything from sun damage and brown spots to fine lines and wrinkles. SiSpa was recently named a top 10 U.S. resort spa by Conde Nast Traveler readers.

• Signature Wakai Renewal at Sanctuary Spa, Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa.

It’s only natural that a spa set in the Sonoran Desert would know a thing or two about the sun’s effects on skin, and Sanctuary Spa delivers world-class healing through treatments like the Signature Wakai Renewal. The concept of wakai—the Japanese word for “forever young”—is at the heart of this aromatic journey, available as a 60-minute treatment or 90-minute ritual. The 60-minute version begins with an intensely moisturizing, nutrient- and mineral-rich exfoliation and ends with the application of a luxuriant, berry-infused cream. Those who book the 90-minute ritual also benefit from an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory mask wrap that helps to maintain the skin’s youthfulness, a scalp and neck massage with a revitalizing fresh berry serum, and a 30-minute full body massage using Vitamin C-rich, cloudberry-infused cream.

• Exotic Milk Ritual at Spa Mirbeau, Mirbeau Inn & Spa Rhinebeck.

Post-summer spa-goers in New York’s Hudson Valley can be among the first to experience Spa Mirbeau at the brandnew Mirbeau Inn & Spa Rhinebeck

November2019

(opening Sept. 28). The spa’s Exotic Milk Ritual nourishes dry, parched skin using a blend of Polynesian Frangipani Monoi and Japanese Camelia. A deepcleansing, mineral-rich salt scrub encourages regeneration of new cells and is followed by a warm cocoon wrap with mood-balancing aromatics and skin conditioning oils. The ritual ends with a hydrating bath infused with a special milk protein base rich in natural plant collagen to leave skin feeling satin soft.

• Matcha Facial at Sankara Spa, Castle Hotel & Spa.

Just 25 miles north of Manhattan in Westchester County’s Tarrytown, N.Y., Castle Hotel & Spa’s Sankara Spa is an ideal post-summer escape for city dwellers seeking renewal. The spa’s 60-minute, detoxifying Matcha Facial rejuvenates the skin as it protects against sun damage and calms redness. Refreshed and renewed, spa-goers can soak up the beauty of a Westchester County autumn from a stunning hilltop setting with sweeping views of the Hudson River Valley.

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• Great Outdoors Facial at The Spa at Whiteface Lodge, Whiteface Lodge.

Tucked into the Adirondack woodlands of Lake Placid, N.Y., the all-suite Whiteface Lodge beckons guests out of doors to explore nature’s playground then welcomes them back with Adirondack-inspired spa treatments to soothe and renew their sun-exposed skin. A perfect pairing: The 50-minute Great Outdoors Facial employs antioxidants and botanical extracts to nourish and rejuvenate environmentally damaged skin and slow the signs of aging. Follow it with a deeply moisturizing, 25-minute Firming Neck & Décolleté Treatment that improves skin tone and texture while smoothing fine lines and wrinkles.

Mary Gendron is the Senior Vice President and Managing Director of Mower, and a founding board member of the International Spa Association.

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SkinQ&

Barrier A Strengthen and protect your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin with Dr. Carl Thorneldt

Q: What is the skin barrier? A: The skin has three protective systems: the physical skin barrier made up of lipids and proteins, the chemical barrier made up of signaling molecules, fatty acids, and antioxidants (in this category falls growth factors, defensins and selectins), and the microbiome made up of surface bacteria and yeast.

Q: Why is barrier repair so important? A: The skin barrier is our protection against all insults in the environment around us. Damaging the skin barrier allows for all toxins to penetrate deeper and in larger amounts. A damaged skin barrier also activates inflammation in the skin. Chronic inflammation is linked to disease and cancer in many organs in the body â&#x20AC;&#x201C; including the skin. Because the skin is the most visible organ of the body, people forget that it is still an organ and needs to be taken care of as we would other organs of the body.

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Q: What are common mistakes people make that break down the skin barrier? A: Using harsh products/ingredients on the skin and excess exfoliation (scrubs, microbeads, etc.). Exposure to UV, pollution, extreme temperatures, severe emotional or physical stress, lipid lowering and chemotherapeutic medicines, hormonal imbalance, and heavy metals tend to break down the skin barrier as well.

Q: How can one repair their skin barrier? A: Use products that contain cholesterol, ceramide, and free fatty acids in the proper ratio to repair the skin barrier.

Q:What role does exfoliation take in the breakdown of the skin barrier? A: The type of exfoliation impacts how the skin barrier is damaged. Physical exfoliation, such as with scrubs or brushes, literally creates microtears in the skin by damaging the skin cells that make up the skin barrier. Chemical exfoliation damages the lipid “glue” that holds the skin barrier together.

Q:What types of exfoliants are skin barrier safe? A:Chemical exfoliants that are in an anti-inflammatory formulation that also contains lipids that help mitigate the damage to the skin barrier lipids are the best approach. For example, Epionce Lytic Tx contains proprietary modified salicylic acid which acts as a chemical exfoliant, but the formulation also contains anti-inflammatory botanical ingredients along with oils that prevent the skin from drying out and becoming aggravated from the salicylic acid.

Q:How do you combat a damaged skin barrier and acne simultaneously? A:Acne is driven by many triggers, and a damaged skin barrier can actually make acne worse too. The typical ap-

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proach to treating acne has been to dry out the oil, over exfoliate in an attempt to clean out the pores, and blast the skin with anti-microbial agents – damaging the skin barrier and triggering chronic inflammation – which causes the skin to produce MORE excess sebum in an attempt to repair and protect itself – leading to a vicious cycle. The goal should be to try to balance the skin out – have the correct amount of oil to normalize the function of the skin barrier, keep the abnormal microbes in check without destroying the microbiome, and reduce the inflammation in the skin all while keeping the pores cleaned out. As a dermatologist, I also culture “acne” lesions because sometimes patients come in thinking they have an “acne” problem, when in reality it is something else entirely. If I know what microbes I’m dealing with, I can assess whether an oral anti-bacterial medication is needed to help kick start the process. I also recommend my acne patients use the Epionce Renewal Lite Facial Lotion. This is a very light-weight lotion to help repair the skin barrier and is very anti-inflammatory, without

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being heavy. I then recommend products to help address the microbial overgrowth and excess sebum production, such as Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser or Purifying Wash, Purifying Spot Gel for stubborn acne lesions, and Lytic Sport Tx for daily full-face use at home. In my office, we also offer chemical peel and IPL series that really help tame down the acne lesions.

Q:Is it true that foaming cleansers disrupt the skin barrier? A:It depends on the types of surfactants used in the cleanser. Some surfactants are damaging to the skin barrier.

Q:What is the role of pH in skin barrier function? A:The skin has three protective systems: the physical skin barrier (made up of lipids and proteins), the chemical barrier made up of signaling molecules, fatty acids and antioxidants (in this category falls growth factors, defensins and selectins), and the microbiome made up of surface bacteria and yeast. The chemical barrier includes the low pH acid mantle which slows the growth of disease-causing microbes.

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There are so many other uses for finipil! Finipil is an incredible germ and fungus killer, moisturizer and sanitizer. It soothes skin irritations, blemishes, rashes and calms itching and cools sunburn! Can even be used as a deodorant and in place of alcohol based hand sanitizers! Professionals call it a “must-have” lotion!

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Skintique Coral Gables, FL

Relax and renew

SPA OF THE MONTH

by Cristina Beecham

From red carpet facials to fat-blasting body treatments, Skintique Miami goes above and beyond to help clients achieve their ideal, youthful look from head to toe. Located in Coral Gables, Skintique serves a range of college students, busy professionals and Miami locals. Owner Jeanette Acosta, paramedical esthetician, hand selects and trains her team to ensure every treatment meets their standards of professionalism and satisfaction. Clients are surrounded with feelings of peace and tranquility the moment they walk through the doors of Skintique.

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spa Spa Of The Month

Signature Treatment Skintique’s Meta Matrix Therapy ($295, 120 minutes), rejuvenates, hydrates and repairs the skin from the inside out. Meta, meaning Medical Esthetical Tissue Activation, is suitable for all skin types. Skintique owner Jeanette Acosta describes the spa’s signature treatment: “Using a Meta-Ject hand piece along with a disposable one time use, ultra-thin needle cartridge, micro-perforations are made in the skin introducing the active ingredient serum chosen by skin type. This serum is immediately deployed via gold probes, radio frequency waves to further penetrate the serums. The skin will repair these invisible micro perforations immediately and produce collagen and elastin. The skin is restored from the inside out by cellular regeneration, in a completely natural process.”Jeanette adds that this treatment is surprisingly comfortable 28

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with no need for topical anesthetic. She says, “The great advantage is that there is little or no recovery time, because the protective function of the skin is not affected. Makeup can even be worn the following day. The treatment can be performed to the entire face, neck, décolleté and select body parts. This is a purely natural treatment with no chemicals, no fillers, no toxins.”

Soul Balancing In contrast to their medical esthetics treatments, Skintique also has a broad range of wellness treatments. Their Chakra Alignment ($85, 45 minutes) helps to clear blocked energy in the seven main energy centers (Chakras) of the body. This treatment helps balance emotions and promote an overall feeling of well-being. Skintique also offers Reiki ($85, 40 minutes), a

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powerful Japanese practice that is performed by a trained practitioner. Healing energy, or qi, is transferred from therapist to client, targeting specific imbalances providing overall well-being.

Body Treatments It’s always bikini season in Miami! To meet their clients’ constant body tightening needs, Skintique offers three lifting treatments. Cavitation Lip Laser/ Radio Frequency ($135, 50 minutes) is a non surgical break though that melts fat, lifts and tightens loose in skin while diminishing cellulite with just one treatment! Skintique’s Gluteus Lift ($90, 50 minutes) helps to improve the look of the glutes by stimulating muscle tone and contouring, giving clients a more lifted behind in no time! This treatment includes a complimentary consultation.

spa Spa Of The Month

Spa Director Spotlight

To help lose those last few inches, Skintique offers Endermologie Cellulite & Detox Massage ($85, 40 minutes). After eight sessions, clients will see results such as fat loss, curve definition, cellulite smoothing and skin tightening.

Team Building Skintique owner Jeanette Acosta believes that a strong team is the key to success. She says, “I keep my staff motivated with yearly staff bonding trips to local spas, skin care product gift boxes, end of the year dinner parties and holiday bonuses in addition to profit sharing summer bonuses. We are a team and I want them to work together, not compete against each other. My team has remained almost intact from the beginning. We are a family. They connect and create a trust between esthetician and client

that builds loyalty. I’ve personally retained clients for over 20 years. It’s truly a blessing.” To keep her staff in tiptop shape, Jeanette performs yearly reviews based on each team member’s “personal performance and client retention, not on sales.” More frequently, Jeanette says the Skintique team has “formal quarterly day long Monday meetings that incorporate training, monthly informal inter -office memos with any updates and weekly or daily group chats to address any important information. The staff is also encouraged to reach out at any time to share their opinions and concerns."

Rundown Skintique 4100 Salzedo Street Coral Gables, FL 33146 skintiquemiami.com Retail: Eminence; HydraFacial; Dermatude; VisualChanges; Farm House Fresh

With over 21 years of hands on Paramedical skincare experience, Skintique owner Jeanette Acosta is a graduate of the Florida College of Natural Health and became a certified Paramedical Esthetician under the direct supervision of Dr. James Fulton MD, co-inventor of Retin-A and professor at the University Of Miami School Of Dermatology. She is a Florida Board Certified, Licensed Esthetician and Clinical and Medical Electrologist with advanced training in Laser Technologies. She has 7 years of Biomedical Engineering experience and has developed and co-developed professional skin care products that currently sell all over the world. In addition, she is directly associated with many top Board Certified Plastic Surgeons and has extensive knowledge in the cosmetic medical Esthetic field. All of the therapists at Skintique possess the highest licenses and qualification in the Esthetic field and have been personally trained by Jeanette herself.

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor

Services: 70 percent facials; 18 percent bodywork; 12 percent retail

of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina

Clients: 70 percent female, 30 percent male; 90 percent local, 10 percent non-local

is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@ lneonline.com

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November2019

Spa

NEWS 2

Christina USA Silky Matte Cream

This matte textured, low-oil body cream reverses signs of aging by mimicking young skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) with high levels of clinical hydrators to smooth, firm and transform skin—it even treats stretch marks!

christina-cosmeceuticals.com

Algimagic Hydrating Mask from LEIM This hydrating mask uses carrot and cucumber to improve elasticity and balance the skin for effect moisturizing.

leimusa.com

Advanced Esthetic’s DioPulse 808 Hair Removal Laser DioPulse 808 Diode Laser uses the double power of laser. 1200W is two times higher than average lasers on market. High power allows you to perform high focused laser treatment with no pain or downtime.

adonyss.com 888.450.2505

Aeroderm from Equipro This compact unit combines pulverization and vacuum. This Vac-Spray machine is equipped with one spray jet vaporizer, one additional plastic bottle, two plastic tubes and one glass tube adaptor. It also includes three glasses tube: one anti-wrinkle, one blackhead and one for facial massage.

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November2019

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November2019

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IF YOU

FAIL TO

PLANâ&#x20AC;Ś Writing Your Spa Business Plan by Aurora Solis

Writing a business plan from scratch, or even revising your current spa business plan or structure can seem daunting. However, your business plan is one of the most important steps in creating a successful business, as it focuses your energy, time and resources on a clear end game. You are not only trying to launch a successful business, but you are also ensuring that it will last, grow and sustain you financially and professionally.

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November2019

business If You Fail to Plan…

Your business plan is a living document. It is not meant to just hide away in a filing cabinet. It is a tool to refer to every time you are faced with important decisions. Your business plan guides your decision making and helps run the every day ins and outs of your skin care and spa business. Writing a business plan takes time. It summarizes the hard work you need to do beforehand in discovering your vision, working out your ‘why’ and what your brand stands for, what you’ll be selling, where you’ll be selling, who your competitors are and what your market gap is, and how you’ll fund your business. It also entails drafting a full financial plan, based on things like estimated sales forecasts.

Step-by-Step Guide to Your Spa Business Plan Running a skin care business requires you to be extremely organized. You will need a strong business plan that leads

November2019

you through all of the main components of your cosmetics business. Your beauty business plan should cover the following topics:

1. Your Vision Before you can build your business, you must describe your vision. Your brand mission statement says what you want your customers to get out of your brand. Your vision is your overall goals and dreams for your company. You need to figure out what you’re trying to do with your beauty brand and why you are creating it in the first place. When you write your brand mission, you’re not just writing a boring, bland statement on a piece of paper. Instead, you have to view you and your customers as being on a mission. What does your brand do and for whom, how does it do it and why does it do it? Your vision is coupled with your mission but is about your big goals and dreams. A brand vision isn’t that you

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want to make organic formulations to sell to anyone. Instead, your brand vision is about your bigger dreams and how you want to make a difference with your beauty brand. Your vision statement has to say something unique about your beauty brand, look to the future and what you aim to achieve and define what you are offering for your customers.

2. Your Demographic It’s all well and good having your vision and mission, but if you don’t know who you are selling to, then you might as well not have a business at all. You need to understand who your client is is, how they live and how they shop. Once you know who your target customer is, all of a sudden everything clicks into place and becomes easier in terms of selling. You know which marketing messages work best for your customer, you know what they’re looking for and you know how to sell to them.

MARCEL

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HydroPeeling for Face & Body Oxygen Infusion RF Skin Firming Cold & Hot Stimulation Ultrasound Skin Hydration

Zemits designed this equipment with the goal of combining prestige technology and amazing design all into one incredible, multifunctional device. 4 separate treatment jars allow providers to treat the entire body and face with HydroPeeling. Furthermore, its waste jar has a large capacity and is hidden H inside the unit to keep the device's appearance clean, organized and professional.

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November2019

business If You Fail to Plan…

3. Your Services In order to think like a business owner, you need to understand very clearly what you are selling and what your services provide to your target customers. Did you decide your target market is anti-aging clients? Then your services need to address their specific needs, such as hyperpigmentation, sun damage, sagging skin and aging skin prevention.

4. Know Your Competition Yes, your competitors most certainly have a place in your skin care business plan. Knowing your competitors keeps you on your toes and is information any investor will ask for, up front and early on. Competitor research can help you identify areas where your brand can thrive and can show you more

Where the money to fund your business comes from hangs over your entire business plan. effective ways to grow customer loyalty and differentiate yourself. See what they are doing so that you know what’s working for them and what isn’t. Write a list of their strengths and weaknesses to see where you can do better. You also need to know where to position yourself in comparison to your competitors.

5. Funding Where the money to fund your business comes from hangs over your entire business plan. As you’ve seen, each previous step has financial implications. You won’t be able to run a successful beauty brand without having a firm grip on finances. Having sound plans for raising finance at various junctures in your business is just wise business practice. Your business plan needs to cover the different types of funding options available to you, such as bank loans, help from family and friends, and crowdsourcing funds.

6. Financial Forecast Business plans are best written in the first year of business. At this point, you may have not started seeking funding or making any revenue. You may not have sales to show, but you can still show some key figures on the size of your market and your brand’s potential. To begin your financial forecast, you should include a timeline showing your goals and accomplishments, such as when you started, your key achievements, any brand or packaging development, what stage you are at now, i.e. do you have a service menu in creation and how much have you invested or fund-raised so far? If you are already selling, then you can show how much investment has gone into the company already, what returns and sales you have and what your financial projections are. Having an accountant or financial expert help with this information can also help you be better prepared when talking about your finances to potential investors.

7. If You Fail to Plan… Don’t let your spa business finish that sentence. In today’s market, beauty-related businesses all have the potential to succeed. Your clients are out there! Take the time to put into writing what you are trying to accomplish. If you build it, they will come! 36

November2019

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November2019

Tradeshow Talk Facts and figures to keep in mind when shopping the tradeshow floorâ&#x20AC;Ś

6 38

November2019

79 percent of spa professionals say Product Reputation is the most important factor in selecting spa supplies.

2 3 4 5

68 percent of spa professionals believe Educational Support is essential when determining which spa supplies to bring into their business. Only 35 percent of spa professionals carry indie beauty lines.

34 percent of spa professionals engage in private labeling

64 percent of spa professionals have experience that Magazine Advertising is the most effective method of client retention.

Spa professionals site Spa Management Software as the number one technology to improve their business.

LNEonline.com

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esty2esty

ON INSTAGRAM

See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! elcome to Miami! This month, the EE duo is attending The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami - our home town! We are so excited to welcome our favorite Spa Directors and estys

• Strike a pose! Makeup

• Make a list of your favorite exhibitors at ICES Miami!

expert Beke Beau made a stop at our photo booth…

• Here’s a sneak peak of our expert CBD Panel! Exclusively in Miami…

• Our favorite new find this year? Bath Asana’s body oil! It’s heavenly…

Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!

November2019

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to our favorite ICES show! Catch a sneak peak of this year’s giveaways, speakers and featured exhibitors on our Instagram! And don’t miss our #esty2esty series, Miami edition! We’ve got some great interviews lined up for this month - stay tuned!

Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!

@estheticianedit

Hair Removal Guide

Get clients smoother, faster...

LNEonline.com

November2019

LNEonline.com

WHATIS

SPEED WAXING Perfecting Your Technique for Better Results by Pamela Jeschonek

Have you ever heard of Speed Waxing? If you are a waxing professional, you probably have. But do you know exactly what it is? Waxing is more than waxing quickly, it is about perfecting specific techniques and waxing with ease. Speed waxing is many things. It is waxing without making a mess, in your space and on the client. It is waxing with ease, being proficient in your techniques so you do not waste time fumbling around the client. It is repeating certain techniques so that you are not stopping and starting the application and removal process as often. And it is the ability to do all of these things while still making the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comfort your number one priority.

LNEonline.com

November2019

Hair Removal Guide

Sound easy? Yeah, it’s not. So let’s break it down step by step to help you understand how speed waxing will improve your waxing business.

KEEP IT CLEAN Let’s look first at not making a mess. The last thing you want to do is drip wax all over your table, the floor and your client. Learning how to move wax from the pot to your client seems like a simple thing to do. But unless you have good technique, you will end up making a mess as the wax drips and drops all over the place. One technique to move the wax quickly and cleanly is called The Twirl. It is an easy way to get wax from the wax pot to your client without losing any wax along the way.

Do you have a good foundation of techniques? Does your body move comfortably through the application and removal process without hesitation? Or are you reminding yourself throughout the waxing service what to do next - or how to do this technique or that technique - because you are not yet confident enough in your skills? Until you can perform waxing basics efficiently and confidently, you will never wax with speed because you will be too worried about what to do during the service. One technique you must master is Pulling The Strip. If you do this wrong, not only will you hurt the client, but also the hair will not be removed properly, which means more time correcting a mistake during the service.

SAVING TIME WAXING WITH EASE Speed Waxing is about waxing with ease, which means you have to be very, very good at your waxing procedures. 44

November2019

Next, we will talk about how to save time by doing certain waxing moves in a row. Part of Speed Waxing is repeating certain tasks to save time. For

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example, laying down multiple rows of wax, one after the other, before removing the wax with the strip. Or, covering the entire front of the lower leg with wax before removing the wax. When you do this, you do not have to switch between tasks as often, so you will be saving time. If you put down multiple rows of wax before removing them, you can then remove those rows one after the other as well, with the same strip. This way, you are not applying one row, then removing one row - stopping the wax application, starting the wax removal. You are doing more of one task, followed by more of the other.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT WAX But this requires more than just skill. It requires a wax that will not harden too quickly, a larger wax applicator to move more wax to the client quickly and a client who has very little reaction to waxing. You would not want to

Hair Removal Guide

perform this on a first time client or a sensitive waxing client because you will never see them again. This is only for clients who are regular waxers and do not get welts, redness, puffiness, etc. So do this with caution.

COMFORT COMES FIRST Speaking of the client, your job is not only to remove the hair quickly and efficiently, but also to keep your client comfortable during the service. And that means you need to have mastered basic waxing techniques that help to keep the pain of the service to a minimum. You also need to know exactly how to address negative reactions immediately to help calm their skin and keep your client relaxed.

client comfortable. Do you know how to properly stand or how high your bed should be to be easy on your body during the service? You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wax well if you are fighting your own pain. There you have it! A little lesson on Speed Waxing. Remember, until you have mastered all of the basic waxing techniques, your speed will never improve. So practice, practice, practice! And in no time you will be confident and in demand!

Pamela Jeschonek is a Licensed Esthetician and proud beauty enabler. She turned her

WHAT ABOUT YOUR COMFORT?

obsessions for modern eyebrow design and

Keeping your body comfortable during the service is just as important for a quick, efficient wax as keeping your

For nearly a decade, she has been empower-

ultra gentle waxing into a thriving niche salon. ing beauty pros through her online education classes GentleWaxPRO and EyebrowMBA.

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November2019

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SIMPLY BEST THE

Is one form of hair removal better than another? by Aurora Solis

There are many methods of hair removal and all are very effective but vary in time needed, level of pain, difficulty of mastering and cost of continuing education.

LNEonline.com

November2019

Hair Removal Guide

Depilation Spa clients who do not have professional services rely on depilation, which is shaving or the use of chemical depilatories to remove hair. Depilatories use a chemical for three to 15 minutes to dissolve unwanted hair and most products can be purchased for minimal investment over the counter. Vaniqa is a prescription-only topical cream that has been FDA-approved for reducing and inhibiting the growth of unwanted facial hair.

Epilation Epilation services provided by a licensed esthetician includes tweezing, waxing, sugaring, threading and the use of lasers or electrolysis, all of which remove the entire hair from the follicle. In some states, for an esthetician to offer electrolysis or be a laser tech requires additional training and or a separate license all together. 48

November2019

By far the most popular method of hair removal is waxing. Waxing is a derivative of sugaring in the Western world and can be found in most spas. Many spas have come full circle and are replacing waxing with a sugaring form of hair removal. Both waxing and sugaring are an excellent choice for hair removal.

Waxing Wax hair removal is one of the most popular because it is inexpensive, convenient, fast and lasts between three and eight weeks. Less hair regrows and the hair is generally finer. Eventually, some hairs never regrow. Waxing is an effective method of removing large amounts of hair at one time. In this method wax is warmed to allow it to be spread easily over the skin in the direction of hair growth and a paper or cloth strip is then placed on top of soft wax. The hair becomes

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embedded in the wax, which cools and firms up grasping the hair. The wax is then quickly pulled off in the opposite direction of the hair growth, pulling the hairs out of the follicles along with dead skin cells leaving the skin smooth. Hard waxes are available usually attached to strips, which are patted onto the skin to better adhere to the hair. Wax that is still left on the skin must be peeled or scratched off. Caution must be used when heating wax so as not to burn the skin. It is very important to ask clients to fill out a hair removal form to find out if they use Retin-A, Renova, Differin or Accutane. These medications tend to weaken the skin and tearing of the skin may occur when the wax is removed. Some physicians do not recommend hair waxing for persons suffering from diabetes, varicose veins or poor circulation because they are more suscep-

Hair Removal Guide tible to infection. Waxing should not be done on areas of skin affected by warts, pimples, moles or rashes or on skin that is irritated, chapped or suffering from sunburn. Never apply wax to peeling, broken skin or varicose veins. A simple way to greatly minimize the discomfort is to press hard on the skin right after the waxing strip is pulled off. Additionally, to reduce the risk of swelling and skin irritation ice cube can be rubbed over the area being wax. The downside to waxing is that when it is done incorrectly it can cause pain, bruising, additional bleeding and even a lawsuit.

Sugaring Sugaring is an ancient hair-removal practice that's gaining popularity today. Many spas are replacing waxing with sugaring, although they often will still use wax where appropriate and when requested. There are several variations of the sugaring formula available for use by professionals and not all formulas are created equal. Some of the

ingredients and the method of manufacture are a closely guarded secret. Many estheticians find that sugaring is easier to work with than traditional wax because the hair is extracted in the direction in which it grows. It is also gentler on the skin because it only adheres to the dead cells rather than live skin, thereby eliminating redness and skin damage. Sugaring is applied at room temperature and thus will never burn the skin. It takes a certain skill to perform this procedure. Sugaring classes are available by a manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s representative and the course often around 16 hours. The technique is different from waxing and may be easily learned with practice. Sugaring is very sanitary. There is no double dipping and it is a natural anti-bacterial product. It is also less painful than waxing. Treatment should be carried out every three weeks or less and in some cases has led to permanent hair removal. In any event, the hair becomes finer over a period of time. Another advan-

tage of sugaring to the esthetician is the clean up because the sugar paste can be washed off with water.

Master Your Technique Whether waxing or sugaring or another use of epilation is used in your salon or spa, master your technique. Clients do not want to leave bruised, sore or chaffed from a service. Remember, there isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a best method of hair removal, but what matters more is understanding why a client would benefit from different methods and either become an expert or send them to an expert. The most beautiful products in unskilled hands will not get the results desired. Learn about all the methods and find technicians you can refer clients to that will also refer back to you and your clients will that know you have their best interest at heart. Hair removal is a service that is profitable and no one should be splitting hairs over what method a spa offers but trying to give the client the best treatment.

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November2019

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HEAD TO

TOE

Waxing for Special Occasions by Aurora Solis

When clients prepare for a special occasion such as a wedding, honeymoon, vacation or anniversary, they seek services that feel special to them. These are services that they may only request once or twice a year that make them feel their absolute best. One way to look and feel fabulous is to remove unwanted hair from head to toe. Waxing is great not only for removing unwanted hair, but also a great way to exfoliate. Skin is left smooth and ready for a self-tan application giving the bride a gorgeous glow. A crucial point to remember when dealing with special occasion clients is that this should not be the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first time waxing. Ideally, a client should begin waxing several months prior to her event, if not sooner. This allows for a less painful experience as the hair will become finer with subsequent waxing, her tolerance for the process will increase, and there will be fewer surprises. Also, this will give you an idea if the client has any negative reactions to the wax and/or the pre- and post- wax products. If the wax and products cause no adverse effects the first time you use them, then be sure to use the same ones each time thereafter.

LNEonline.com

November2019

Hair Removal Guide

When To Use Hard Wax

Facial Waxing

From brows to Brazilians, hard wax is the way to go. Hard wax is perfect for waxing smaller areas such as brows, lips, chins, underarms, bikinis, hairlines and toes. This wax is gentler on the skin because it shrink-wraps around the hairs allowing the roots to be pulled without lifting the skin. It also is excellent for removing shorter hairs. Hard wax has less contact on the skin than strip wax and is a “non-directional” wax. This means it can be applied in any direction regardless of the pattern of hair growth. It is also an excellent choice for removing shorter hairs. To take out shorter hairs, apply the wax against the way the hair is laying so you can lift the hairs up and embed them into the wax. This process is gentle, and depending on how delicate your client’s skin is, hard wax usually can be applied and removed without causing irritation when reapplied to a previously waxed area if necessary.

For unwanted facial hair, wax only the brows, lip and chin, not the vellus (peach fuzz) hair, unless the client has extremely dark, deep-rooted hair and she has had it removed with no adverse reactions in the past. If the latter is the case, then be sure to use a high frequency facial wand upon completion of the waxing to help kill bacteria and prevent breakouts. The high frequency wand with its germicidal effects can also be used on the smaller areas such as the brows and lip. Arm waxing has become very popular in recent years. Clients wishing to wax their arms should be cautioned as this area may be prone to small pimples if it has never waxed before. The hair on the arms generally grows down and curves around the arm, so make sure you follow the hair growth pattern and remove in the opposite direction. There are several different options for positioning your client to help you wax

November2019

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in this way with little discomfort. You might have your sitting upright on the treatment table or have you and your client seated in a chair while propping your client’s arm on the treatment table arranging her arm so that it is comfortable for her yet with enough latitude for you to work comfortably. Just as with the bikini area, have your client hold her own skin taught to prevent bruising and irritation.

Safe is Better When waxing special occasion clients, it is not the time to experiment with a new brow shape or a full Brazilian, if they have never dared to be bare. Your client should be comfortable with her look. Any changes should be gradual and tried ahead of time. For example, if she has never had a bikini wax try a regular one first, about a month later leave a “landing strip” and progressively move toward the full Brazilian.

Hair Removal Guide Be sure to warn bikini-waxing clients about premenstrual sensitivity approximately one week prior to their cycle. Avoid bikini-waxing altogether during the menstrual cycle. Strip or soft wax should be used on the larger areas such as arms or legs. Although waxing is a form of exfoliation, ask your client to exfoliate in the shower with an ayate cloth prior to waxing. The ayate cloth is a natural fiber grown, harvested and woven in central Mexico. Made from the agave cactus plant, this gentle washcloth expands when wet, yet is mildew resistant, machine washable and can last up to a year. Scrubbing with an ayate cloth is an excellent way to revitalize the skin while preventing ingrown hairs that frequently occurs after waxing legs and the bikini region.

Every client’s hair grows at different rates but generally three to four weeks’ worth of growth should give you ample length of hair to work with. The hair length should be a minimum of 1/8 inch but ¼ inch is preferable. Suggest that your clients come in about 4 days before the special event, allowing any redness or bumps to subside before the big event. If a client has decided to do a full body wax, you may suggest that they do it in two separate sessions, as it can be a very time consuming and tedious process for both the client and esthetician.

Word to the Wise Thoroughly review client consultation forms for contra-indicators such as Accutane™ and blood thinners. Also check for topical products like Tretinoin

and AHAs that can thin the skin. Do not use the high frequency wand on pregnant clients or who have a history of heart disease or a pacemaker. Be mindful of the client’s previous waxing experiences (or lack thereof) and take note of allergies.

Special Event Packages Many salons and spas of all sizes offer discounts for groups such as bridal parties. Try offering brides half off her services if she brings in a minimum of four others in her bridal party. She may even bring in her groom for a back or chest wax! Unfortunately, even the simplest of events or special occasions takes time, planning and preparation. With some foresight and guidance, you can help make your client’s special day extra smooth!

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November2019

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VISIT US AT MIAMI ICES BOOTHS #818-819

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November2019

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NATURAL NATURALLY vs.

Derived

Decode green skin care by Aurora Solis

There are dozens of green trends in the cosmetic industry and even more organizations claiming to be the leading authority on the topic. The abundance of information and often conflicting opinions requires thorough research to choose the right green products for your spa. It is enough to make the average consumers head spin and confuse businesses that are trying to do the right thing into resignation. Being a green spa requires finding a balance between natural, organic, and green, ratings on the biorenewable carbon index and fair trade to find the right eco-ethical products for your business.

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November2019

organic & wellness Natural vs. Naturally Derived

The key to choosing green cosmetics for your spa is in determining how you define green ingredients. Based on conflicting information on the Internet, you might be surprise to find that the very same ingredients you have been taught to avoid are some of the greenest ingredients on the market. Sodium lauryl sulfate is the perfect example. This ingredient can be found in the top ten list of ingredients to avoid by countless â&#x20AC;&#x153;expertsâ&#x20AC;? despite the fact that it scores a 100 on the biorenewable carbon index, is naturally sourced from the fatty alcohols of coconut oil, is completely safe in wash off formulas, lets off 0 percent VOC (wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t vaporize into the atmosphere), is readily biodegradable, and is EO/PO free (contains no Ethylene Oxide/Propylene Oxide Copolymer). By all green standards sodium lauryl sulfate is the perfect ingredient, but many self-proclaimed watch-dogs in the industry claim otherwise. 60

November2019

Choosing the right ecological path for your company is a multiple step process that definitely includes picking the right cosmetics for use in your spa. In plain English the following is designed to give you scientific information that may aid you in making the green decisions that are right for your company.

Natural and Naturally Derived The fine line between natural and naturally derived ingredients is hard to decipher since most ingredients have a tie back to a natural resource. There is added confusion caused by the fact that purely synthetic ingredients also have a place in creating safe and affordable cosmetics. To completely disavow all synthetic ingredients would leave the majority of consumers priced out of the cosmetic world. Defining the right eco-ethical path for your business has never been more important to busi-

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nesses as it is today with consumers seeking affordable, natural, organic and green cosmetics. Understanding the fine line between natural and naturally derived is the most important factor in choosing the cosmetics for your spa. Ingredients that are 100 percent natural are ones that are found in nature and simply must be processed to express the ingredient from the natural resource. Examples are vegetable oils (olive, coconut, avocado, etc.) and butters (shea, mango, etc.), essential oils (lavender, orange, tea tree, etc.), distillates (rose, orange blossom, lavender, etc.), clays (green, pink, kaolin, etc.), herbs, salts, sugars, waxes (beeswax, carnauba, candelilla, etc.) and so forth. It is very simple to create a green treatment with these ingredients. Ingredients that are naturally derived are dependent on natural ingredients as a starting point; however, they

organic & wellness Natural vs. Naturally Derived

Biorenewable Carbon Index The biorenewable carbon index of cosmetic ingredients is a value based on the percent carbon derived from a biorenewable resource. Biorenewable ingredients are ones that are originating from animal, plant or marine material. The carbon index number is calculated based on the number of biorenewable carbon divided by the total number of carbons in the entire molecule. This index is one way formulators are working to reduce the cosmetic industry's carbon footprint. A few examples of surfactant ingredients that are plant derived that score a 100 on the biorenewable carbon index are caprylic/ capric triglyceride, ammonium lauryl sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate.

Fair Trade

are altered by a chemical reaction. All of the ingredients used for the reaction may be natural ingredients but the new ingredient is considered naturally derived. The perfect example of this is sodium lauryl sulfate, which is a chemical reaction between the fatty alcohol acids (lauryl alcohol) of coconut oil with sulfuric acid (formed naturally by the oxidation of sulfide minerals) which is then neutralized with the addition of sodium carbonate (naturally occurring.) Another example of a chemical reaction that creates a cosmetic product is castile soap, which is considered natural but also formed from a similar chemical reaction. Castile soap is made when lye (sodium or potassium hydroxide) reacts with oil through saponification (hydrolysis of an ester under basic conditions to form an alcohol and the salt of a carboxylic acid (carboxylates) which creates soap. Sodium lauryl sulfate and castile soap are both created through a chemical reaction of a plant-derived ingredient; however one is vilified and the other is praised as the ultimate natural product. It is no wonder that consumers are confused! Much of the information available on ingredients is tainted

by the self interest and the agendas of the source. Chemistry is the ultimate measuring stick in deciphering the origin of an ingredient. Determine which side of the line between natural and naturally derived to choose for your spa and review ingredients according to the standards that work for your philosophy.

Organic Whenever and wherever possible, organic and wild-crafted ingredients win hands down over pesticide and chemically fertilized crops. The debate in the cosmetic industry over certification and definition of organic finished cosmetics has been raging for years and is not due to quiet down for many years to come. Organically certified cosmetics are complicated by the fact that the list of acceptable ingredients in certified organic cosmetics was designed for the certification of organic food. The emulsification, preservation and stabilization needs of foods are vastly different than those of cosmetics. The market is flooded with cosmetics that are certified by organizations with wildly different standards of organic. The key to organic decisions can best be found in the ingredient list of the product.

The social movement that is marketbased known as Fair Trade is designed to help producers of ingredients in developing countries and to promote sustainability. Fair trade practices for cosmetic ingredients are related to exports from developing countries to help producers and workers move towards economic self-sufficiency and stability. The ingredients most noteworthy for fair trade in the cosmetic industry include coffee, cocoa, sugar, herbs and essential oils.

Non-toxic The use of the term non-toxic in the cosmetic industry generally relates to ingredients that are non-toxic to the human body. Non-toxic ingredients are ones that do not result in ill-health for the consumer. Searching for information to determine whether an ingredient is non-toxic or not can be misleading and confusing. Many companies claim that ingredients used by their competitors are toxic in order to sell their own products. There are also organizations bent on scaring consumers into believing that more regulation in the cosmetic industry is required to protect consumers from cosmetic companies to fulfill their own agendas.

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November2019

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Eczema and

Chinese

Medicine

Treating eczema with traditional Chinese medicine by Dr. Steven Wang

Eczema is sometimes referred to as atopic dermatitis and it is a common skin condition that affects nearly 30 million Americans. Those who have eczema experience an itchy, red rash, and inflamed skin that can feel hot to the touch. Eczema commonly occurs on the face, behind the knees, and flexor surface of the elbow but can really flare up anywhere on the body. The most difficult thing to deal with when suffering an eczema flare-up is the intense itching. But the itching can actually make things worse and many patients fall into whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s known as the itch-scratch cycle.

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organic & wellness Eczema and Chinese Medicine

Those who have eczema are typically diagnosed as small children. Finding a treatment for eczema is crucial at this age because the itching symptoms can be so intense that they disrupt a child’s sleep cycle, eating habits, and even normal growth patterns. Traditional Chinese Medicine treatment methods have been shown to be safe, and effective for both kids and adults.

What is the Cause of Eczema from a TCM Perspective In Traditional Chinese Medicine, when someone is suffering from eczema it means there is an imbalance inside the body and the symptoms of eczema are the external manifestation of those internal problems. Eczema is caused by what is known as “dampness, heat, and wind” in the lungs which is the organ system that connects your skin to the rest of your body. In Traditional Chinese Medicine “dampness” is the result of poor digestion and oxygen circulation. This is caused, in part, by a diet that is high in rich or fatty foods that do not allow the body to get rid of excess water. “Heat” can be caused by too much spicy or fried food in your diet or by an imbalance in your hormone levels. This combination sets off a chain reaction inside the body which results in eczema. The dampness in the lung causes itching which then generates 64

November2019

the heat that causes redness and inflammation. This chain reaction causes damage to the Qi (the vital energy flow that connects internal organs in the body) which hinders your body's ability to nourish the skin. As a result, the body creates “wind,” which is what causes the dryness.

Treating Eczema with Traditional Chinese Medicine Traditional Chinese Medicine methods have been proven to help cure and relieve symptoms of eczema. Treatment can be done using both herbs and acupuncture. One case study conducted on a child who was inflicted with eczema at

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just 6-months-old set out to determine if Traditional Chinese Medicine is an effective treatment for eczema. After his family had exhausted all other treatment options, they pursued treatment through Traditional Chinese Medicine and he was prescribed an herbal decoction. According to the study, “as the TCM diagnosis of this patient’s case was found to be a deficiency of the spleen function (Qi), it was imperative to tonify and strengthen the spleen in order to eliminate the retention of dampness in the skin...Concerned with the patient’s young age, the treatment approach chosen was to select traditional Chinese herbs with gentle taste and functions but yet with the potency

organic & wellness Eczema and Chinese Medicine

to accomplish the desired result.” The formula was given to the infant four times per day for six months. The skin rashes gradually decreased and the patient stopped scratching his skin. By the age of 15 months, the symptoms had completely disappeared. The patient was monitored for the next six years, during which time there was no recurrence of his symptoms reported by his family. Another Traditional Chinese Medicine Treatment for eczema is acupuncture. In a study published in the Allergy Journal, allergen stimulus, such as house dust, were applied to 30 eczema patients before and after two acupuncture experiments. One group received real acupuncture treatment and the other received a placebo. After the treatment, the itch level and skin symptoms were recorded. The results

matory and anti-bacterial properties. The herbs were extracted and incorporated in a natural base with beeswax, shea butter, and castor and olive oils. This product is able to deliver relief to those who are struggling with eczema symptoms or topical steroid withdrawal syndrome.

showed that “the mean itch intensity was lowered significantly by 35.7 points (with a degree of accuracy of +/- 6.4) for those who received the real acupuncture.” The reduced itch index indicates that acupuncture can reduce the histamine-mediated itch.

Bottomline Topical formulations with natural herbs and essential oils have also been used to help people with eczema relieve symptoms of dry, cracked and itchy skin. Dr. Wang's Herbal Rescue Balm was created after 3+ years of extensive research by a team of renowned dermatologists and herbalists, who combined their decades of clinical and research experiences from centuries of Eastern herbal tradition and the rigor of Western science. It was formulated with a set of 8 herbs that have anti-inflam-

Dr. Steven Q. Wang is the Director of Dermatologic Surgery and Dermatology at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center in Basking Ridge, New Jersey. He is actively involved in clinical research on photoprotection, antioxidants, nanotechnology, anti-aging and natural skincare formulation. In 2016, he cofounded Dr. Wang Herbal Skincare with his father, a licensed acupuncturist and herbalist in NYC

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WINTER BEAUTY TRENDS Forecasting trends for cold weather makeup by Cristina Beecham

Halloween, Christmas, New Years - these are the hallmark celebrations of the winter season. Gore, joy and glamour are the best words to describe these holidays. And so, it is only fitting that this winter’s makeup trends can also be described as spooky, glamorous and artful. Created for their corresponding runway looks, these fashion week makeup creations are your go-to for embracing spooky weather and sparkling winter scenes. Ranging from wearable dewy skin with bronzer and smudged eyeliner, to what some would call full-on face paint, this winter’s looks cover all the bases. Here is a breakdown of Winter 2019’s most memorable makeup trends:

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November2019

image Winter Beauty Trends

Face Makeup Makeup goes avant-garde this winter. On the runway, models’ faces were decorated with splashes of paint around the eyes, on the cheekbones, and on the forehead. Rainbow colors, metallic shimmers and rubber-textured tones were among some of the selections made by this season’s trendsetting makeup artists. Make this look more wearable by blending colorful eyeshadow just slightly higher on the brow bone and outer corners of the eye for a feathered out look. Blush can also be applied to the high cheek bones and temples.

Go Bare Barely-makeup on the runway this season took “nomakeup-makeup” to another level. This runway classic enhanced models’ features without disrupting their individual features. This look was achieved with a touch of concealer, lip balm and mascara. Make this look more wearable by blending a feather-light foundation with a natural finish all over the client’s skin to increase their confidence when trying to go bare. Apply under eye concealer only where needed to cover dark circles. Large triangles of thick concealer under the eye do not belong this season. Instagram makeup artists - beware!

November2019

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image Winter Beauty Trends

Bad to the Bronze

Ultra Blush This season’s most youthful trend? Overdosing on blush! Purity, youthfulness and joy inspired this over-indulgent blush trend. Models sported that winter flush, minus the frostbite. Red toned blushes were applied all over the cheek, nose and temples for an exaggerated look. Make this look more wearable by choosing a medium pink blush with neutral undertones to mimic that winter wind-chap. Apply to the cheeks, nose and temples for an all-over glow, while keeping eye makeup minimal. Match the blush with a just-bitten lip stain to complete the look.

Bronze goddesses should not be left behind along with bikinis and sun tans. This winter, the runways gave bronze a new lease on life. Liberal applications of cream and shimmery bronzers are warming up this winter. Used as a “brontour,” bronzer was applied lower than normal application of blush for a sculpted, monochromatic look. Make this look more wearable by skipping blush and going straight in with warm-toned bronzers all over. Keep eye makeup minimal by blending the same bronzer through the crease for a monochromatic look.

Wet Skin Look Dewy skin is always in, especially during the winter months when skin prefers to be dry and dull. On the runways, glossy cheeks gave the illusion of overly moisturized skin. Shimmery cream highlighters on the cheekbones, temples and lids made models appear as they were in a humid environment, rather than cold, windy winter air. Make this look more wearable by using powder highlighters for a long-lasting finish. Apply highlight to the apple and highpoints of the cheek, temples and lids for an overall shimmery finish. Apply a translucent powder through the T-zone to ensure clients don’t get overly oily throughout the day. LNEonline.com

November2019

image Winter Beauty Trends

Go for the Glitter Winter is the perfect season to experiment with glitter, as clients tend to choose more black and neutral clothing to keep warm. On the runway, full-coverage glitter eyelids gave off party-girl vibes. With chunky glitter applied on the lids and under eyes, this messy “cool girl” look is perfect for New Years. Make this look more wearable by packing on gold or silver glitter to the inner corner of the eyes for a pop of sparkle. Don’t forget to use a glitter primer or sticky base to ensure your client’s look likes through hours of champagne toasts!

13. Publication Title

14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below

LES NOUVELLES ESTHETIQUES INCORPORATED/LES NOUVELLES ESTHETIQUES & SPA AMERICAN EDITION

PS Form 3526

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation (Requester Publications Only)

1. Publication Title LES NOUVELLES ESTHETIQUES INCORPORATED/LES NOUVELLES ESTHETIQUES & SPA AMERICAN EDITION

2. Publication Number 3687

ISSN 10439641

4. Issue Frequency MONTHLY

5. Number of Issues Published Annually 6. Annual Subscription Price 12 $ 45.00

7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication 3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD CORAL GABLES, MIAMI-DADE, FL 33134-7323

3. Filing Date 09/25/2019

Contact Person MARIA GIL Telephone (305) 443-2322 Ext. 109

8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher 3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD CORAL GABLES, FL 33134-7323

15. Extend and Nature of Circulation

09/01/2019 Average No. Copies Each Issue No. Copies of Single Issue During Preceding 12 Months Published Nearest to Filing Date

a. Total Numbers of Copies (Net press run) Outside County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541. (Include direct written request from recipient, telemarketing and Internet requests from (1) recipient, paid subscriptions including nominal rate subscriptions, employer requests, advertiser's proof copies, and exchange copies.) b. Legitimate In-County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions stated on Paid PS Form 3541. (Include direct written request from and/or recipient, telemarketing and Internet requests from Requested (2) recipient, paid subscriptions including nominal rate Distribution subscriptions, employer requests, advertiser's proof (By Mail copies, and exchange copies.) and Sales through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Outside (3) Counter Sales, and Other Paid or Requested Distribution the Mail) Outside USPS Requested Copies Distributed by Other Mail Classes (4) Through the USPS (e.g. First-Class Mail)

9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor Publisher (Name and complete mailing address) J.J. LEGRAND 3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD CORAL GABLES, FL 33134-7323 Editor (Name and complete mailing address) MARIA CRISTINA BEECHAM 3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD CORAL GABLES, FL 33134-7323

c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation (Sum of 15b (1), (2), (3), (4)) Outside County Nonrequested Copies stated on PS Form 3541 (include Sample copies, Requests Over years old, Requests induced by a Premium, Bulk (1) 3 Sales and Requests including Association Requests, Names obtained from Business Directories, Lists, and other soruces) d. NonreIn-County Nonrequested Copies stated on PS Form quested 3541 (include Sample copies, Requests Over 3 Distribution years old, Requests induced by a Premium, Bulk (2) Sales (By Mail and Requests including Association Requests, and Names obtained from Business Directories, Lists, Outside the and other soruces) Mail) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Through the USPS (3) by Other Classes of Mail (e.g. First-Class Mail, Nonrequestor Copies mailed in excess of 10% Limit Nonrequested Copies Distributed Outside the Mail (4) (include Pickup Stands, Trade Shows, Showrooms and Other Sources)

Managing Editor (Name and complete mailing address) MARIA CRISTINA BEECHAM 3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD CORAL GABLES, FL 33134-7323

e. Total Nonrequested Distribution (Sum of 15d (1), (2), (3), (4))

10. Owner (Do not leave blank. If the publication is owned by a corporation, give the name and address of the corporation immediately followed by the names and addresses of all stockholders owning or holding 1 percent or more of the total amount of stock. If not owned by a corporation, give names and addresses of the individual owners. If owned by a partnership or other unincorporated firm, give its name and address as well as those of each individual owner. If the publication is published by a nonprofit organization, give its name and address.) Full Name

Complete Mailing Address

J.J. LEGRAND

44 RUE DE PLAIDEURS, NANTARRE, FRANCE

f. Total Distribution (Sum of 15c and 15e) g. Copies not Distributed h. Total (Sum of 15f and 15g) i. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation ((15c / 15f) times 100)

20000

10804

10198

10909

10327

4702

4696

428

3922

4908

9052

9631

19961

19958

19961

19958

54.65 %

51.74 %

16. If total circulation includes electronic copies, report that circulation on lines below. a. Requested and Paid Electronic Copies(Sum of 15c and 15e)

11. Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Security Holders Owning or Hoding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds. Mortgages, or Other Securities. If none, check box Full Name

Requested and Paid Print Copies(Line 15c) + Requested/Paid b. Total Electronic Copies

Complete Mailing Address

X None

Total Requested Copy Distribution(Line 15f)+ Requested/Paid c. Electronic Copies Paid and/or Requested Circulation (Both print and Electronic d. Percent Copies)

538

503

11447

10830

20499

20461

55.00 %

52.00 %

X I Certify that 50% of all my distributed copies (Electronic & Print) are legitimate requests. 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership for a Requester Publication is required and will be printed in the 11/01/2019 issue of this publication.

PS Form 3526-R, September 2007 (Page 1)

PRIVACY NOTICE: See our privacy policy on www.usps.com 18. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner Title Rodolphe Legrand

Date CEO

09/25/2019 09:29:13 AM

I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties). PS Form 3526-R, September 2007 (Page 2)

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Image

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Sesderma C-VIT Eye Contour Cream This vitamin C complex formula targets puffiness and excess of and dark circles. Helps to increase your natural glow around the area giving you a youthful look.

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Page Number

35................. Advanced Esthetics / Adonyss........................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 7................... Agera Laboratorie....................................................................................................................... ageralabs.com 76................. Altair Instruments..............................................................................................................altairinstruments.com 14................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics................................................................................. beauinstitute.com 15.................Bella Schneider Beauty............................................................................................. bellaschneiderbeauty.com 36.................Bio France Lab........................................................................................................................ biofrancelab.com 5................... Celluma......................................................................................................................................biophotas.com 53................. Dermaswiss.............................................................................................................................. dermaswiss.com 57.................Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc................................................................................................................dr-jeff.com 2,3................ Eminence Organic Skin Care.........................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 75................. Equipro USA............................................................................................................................ equipro-bty.com 39................. Grande Cosmetics............................................................................................................... grandelashmd.com 65................. Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................................................................... halecosmeceuticals.com 25................. Hawrych MD Lash............................................................................................................. hawrychmdlash.com 19................. Hempfield Botanicals....................................................................................................hempfielbotanicals.com 37................. Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics.............................................................................................. biellecosmetics.com 23................. NuFree - Equibal Labs................................................................................................nufree-professionals.com 67................. Rejuvi Laboratory.......................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 31................. Skin Accents.............................................................................................................................skinaccents.com 9................... Viktoria Dé Ann.................................................................................................................... viktoriadeann.com

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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