Extractions | Back to Basics - August 2014

EXTRACTIONS BACK TO BASICS One of the least relaxing steps in skin care treatments is actually one of the most important steps to maintaining healthy, functioning skin.

photos: Shutterstock.com

by Kristina Valiani

Page 28 • lneonline.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

August 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Extractions involve the manual manipulation of the skin, removing comedones, oil and other debris from the follicles. Almost everyone can benefit from extractions performed by a licensed esthetician who follows a procedure that is in line with their state’s safety and sanitation regulations to prevent bacteria and scarring.

A client who does not have pustules or acne may assume that they do not need to get extractions, but that cannot be further from the truth.

Developing good extraction skills requires practice and experience for many estheticians. Once an esthetician has mastered extractions, they will be in much higher demand, since it is a skill that is rare to find in spa settings. Deborah Pannier, an esthetician at Salon Macias in San Francisco, CA, believes that providing

lneonline.com • Page 29

skin | extractions: back to basics painless, thorough extractions is key to retaining clients. Pannier argues that almost everyone has clogged pores, even if their skin type is not oily or prone to acne. She constantly sees new clients with concerns of open and closed comedones, and realizes during their skin consultation that they do not exfoliate or are using the wrong cleanser or sunscreen, which results in a dull complexion.

Any treatment can incorporate extractions.

As the professional, you may ask, “How long should I spend on extractions during the treatment facial?” The answer is determined by several factors.

Professional consultation During the consultation, the esthetician examines the pores with a magnifying lamp while asking questions. For example: “How often are you exfoliating?” “What are your main skin care concerns?” “What are your long term goals for the health and appearance of your skin?”

If your client’s skin is congested with open and closed comedones due to their skin type or lack of consistent exfoliation, you may need to spend more time on extractions or suggest biweekly treatments for 6 weeks to give the skin time to heal and improve in between treatments.

Clients’ main concerns Women are always seeking ways to look more vibrant and get the flawless skin they see on the red carpet and in the beauty magazines.

If your client is targeting “flawless skin,” you have to educate them on the importance of following their home care plans. Consistency and following a strict schedule for exfoliating treatments that involve extractions are proven methods to prevent future clogged pores.

Amount of time allocated for the treatment Your spa’s treatment menu may offer facials that last between 50 and 60 min, which may not be enough time to perform extractions and complete the other beneficial steps of your protocol. Solve this dilemma by offering a 20 min add-on for extractions to any facial service.

Preparing the skin for extractions Two important preparatory procedures make extractions easier on both the esthetician and the client receiving the treatment. The first is exfoliation of any surface cell buildup that can cause dehydration. The second is to make sure that the follicle impactions are soft and the debris has loosened. Depending on the type of spa, treatment selected, and client’s skin-type and condition, you will have several exfoliation methods to choose from. Pannier always ensures that the skin is as soft as possible. She typically chooses an enzyme or a gentle alpha hydroxy acid like lactic acid. She has also found that performing a facial massage with steam prior to extraction is extremely effective, getting the tissue ready to release the foreign debris from the follicle.

Page 30 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014

skin | extractions: back to basics Extraction techniques Several different techniques are used in extraction. Comedone extractors are special instruments to help remove debris in the follicle. They tend to be stainless steel and are available in different shapes. Another more advanced method that takes more experience is the use of cotton tipped fingers. Care must be taken not to bruise the skin or inflame broken capillaries. Erin Ferrill, the national training and development manager at HydroPeptide®, says that she prefers to use her fingers wrapped with cotton to have more control over the pressure that is surrounding the follicle. Ferrill applies even pressure on each side of the comedone, first approaching it with a downward motion and then applying pressure upward in order

been extracted from the skin, use an antimicrobial such as benzoyl peroxide or sulfur, which will kill any remaining bacteria in the follicle and the surrounding areas on the skin. Applying a serum that is calming will help reduce any redness and swelling. The serum should include soothing ingredients such as green tea, matricaria and aloe vera.

Pannier always finishes extractions with purple high frequency electrodes. She says that purple kills bacteria and eases inflammation. High frequency is an electrical treatment that improves skin circulation and kills bacteria growth. High frequency should be applied to the skin in circular motions over a soothing serum.

Applying a mask containing sulfur with a clay base to absorb oil post extractions is also very beneficial to the healing process. A gentle clay that absorbs excess oil without stripping the acid mantle is bentonite clay, which is found in several professional skin care brands.

Home care prevention of clogged pores

to avoid pushing debris further into the follicle.

She is more likely to use a metal extraction tool when working around the nose, where the skin is tighter. Ferrill has also found that moving the tool sideways while applying gentle pressure to one follicle is successful, ensuring that the movement is not inadvertently pushing debris deeper into surrounding pores.

Depending on your state’s regulatory laws that govern estheticians, you may use a tool called a lancet. Lancets are used to dilate follicles before extraction. A disposable, sterile lancet is inserted into the opening of the follicle prior to extractions. This tool loosens the debris and creates an easier pathway for it to exit. The use of a lancet is particularly effective for the extraction of whiteheads (closed comedones).

Post-extraction care Immediately after extractions and before continuing to the next steps in the facial, thoroughly remove any surface debris with fresh cotton or a sponge. If multiple pustules have

Recommend that your clients schedule extractions on a monthly or seasonal basis. Also point out that if they do not consistently use skin care products for their skin types and conditions on a daily basis, they will always be restarting the process, and most likely will not see as big of an improvement as they would from cleansing twice daily. The cleansing I am referring to here is cleansing with the purpose of removing makeup, pollution and oil. Advise your clients to exfoliate with an alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acid to prevent a buildup of dead skin cells. If your client’s skin is more prone to pustules, suggest the use of salicylic acid, since this can enter the follicle and clean from the inside out. And of course, they should always use a moisturizer tailored to their skin type. n

Kristina Valiani is a licensed esthetician, and the sales and education manager for the West Coast for B. Kamins Skincare. Valiani conducts professional trainings and teaches continuing education classes for estheticians around the nation.

Page 32 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2014