CHER . VIVIENNE WESTWOOD . FAITH IN FASHION . LONDON RUNWAY SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS WINNERS
HOUSE OF IKONS SPECIAL PREVIEW EDITION . AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON . LONDON NEW YEAR PARADE
RRP £12.99
ISSUE 82
THE ROMANCE ISSUE
27TH JANUARY 2023
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk
STAFF SPOTLIGHT
each issue, we let you meet one of our team members
Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Senior Graphic Designer: Lauren Rowley Staff Graphic Designers: Janaki Pillai Staff Writers: Amrit Virdi, Kwabena Gyane, Emily Poncia Advertising enquiries - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Shore and Pine, Little By Little Jewellery, Zoes_story, My Little Green Wardrobe, Mark Gunter, Ram Eagle, Mok Photography, @ch_photoz, Jessica Smith, @mtuck1967, @jalb_films, Mariana London, Andreas Munchbach, Alfred Brandl, Neal Richardson, Carissa Glanton, Ruth Avraham, Danielle Liani, Shani Brown, Michal Edri Shvartz, Shaked Zusman Soffer, Lilach Azimi, Maayan Maimon, Stav Schneider Ashuah, Naama Cohen Teva, Katerina, Marina Arcady, Anna Golubova, Kateryna, Iryna Lepska, Elena Bochkareva, Abraeva Rushana, Anna Miller, Carina Plescan, Liviu Gudor, Alexandra Pop, Alina F. Munteanu, Maya Fashion Cluj, Prettyspookydesigns, Amy Charlotte, Tom Jeavons, Molly Dolly's, Cara London, Westenhanger Castle, Olivia Shank, Kristine Liu, Eden Ashebir, Anyelina Yudian Wu Zhai, Kanwal Sajila, Dominique Varga, Arielle Djokoto, Sarah Jang, Deborah Salisu, Pietro Recchia, Tuxedo Lady, Mahogany Brown Bridal, Johnatha Camp, Linda, Michael Ivery, Kia, Tanajah Wallace, Xavier Rashad, Arnell, Kiya Williams, and Darling Nikki
Special thanks to Savita at House of iKons
© 2023, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2022 ambassadors are Pippa Winn and Flinn Andreae
PAGE 1
Hi! My name is Janaki and I joined London Runway Magazine as a Graphic Design Intern. I graduated from Arts University Bournemouth last summer and always wanted to work for a magazine company or a publication house. It has been an amazing opportunity to work alongside other friendly creatives! Contributing my skills to the company has been an addition to my learning growth as a designer. Other than that, I'm a bookworm, dancer, and love to watch movies/TV series and Anime, and a part-time photographer!
CONTENTS
LONDON RUNWAY
8 VISUALS
79 WORDS
The New Brides (Editorial)
22
New Faces
41
Visual Poetry (Editorial)
47
Africa Fashion Week London (Continued)
57
Style (Conscious) Guide: For My Sweetheart
London Runway Sustainability Awards: The Winners
4
House of iKons: Fashion Week London February 2023 (Cover Feature)
8
The Legacy of Vivienne Westwood
18
67
Have Faith in Fashion
35
Cara London (Editorial)
69
New Business: PrettySpookyDesigns
40
Olli Photoshoot (Editorial)
79
Cher: The Dark Lady's Wardrobe
54
Africa Fashion Week London (Continued)
95
Behind-the-Scenes at the Olli Photoshoot
94
London New Year's Day Parade
103
How a Book Could Benefit Your Business
109
Emerald Affair Fashion Show
108
The Big Question
113
PAGE 2
LONDON RUNWAY
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Here we are in January 2023: a new year, and fittingly, the start of a new era for London Runway. From next issue onwards, you’re going to be seeing a lot of changes. We’ll start with a brand new front cover, which is so exciting. The last time we made a change to our cover layout was for Issue 30 – more than fifty issues ago! It almost seems like London Runway has always looked like this, although of course that’s not the case. And with a new era for us, it feels right to embrace a brand new look as well. Going forward, our content will change as well – but hopefully in such a way that you can still see our signature through everything. We’re cutting back some of our written content and focusing on including more amazing fashion shows and editorials, showcasing the work of super-talented individuals from around the world.
Among other things, this will give us the space to consider showcasing shows that take place outside of the UK, something we’ve never really had room for beyond a page or two a year. And some of your favourite features are staying put! Look forward to more interviews with models in New Faces, more business spotlights in New Business, plenty of shopping choices with our Style (Conscious) Guide, and the shows you’ve loved to see over the years! We’re so excited to bring you an issue this month with a dedicated preview for House of iKons, a show which you will of course see as part of our London Fashion Week coverage. We can’t wait for that in the next issue! Along with all of the changes comes a lot of change to our staff, too. We’re saying goodbye to some of our beloved team and also shutting down our longrunning internships programmes, at
least for now. While we hope to return to these initiative which have brought us so much pride and joy in the future, for now, I want to thank everyone who has been a part of bringing London Runway to this point. From the very first intern back in late 2017 to today, Slack’s statistics tell me that we’ve had a grand total of 105 staff members and interns over the years. Every single person has contributed something to developing the publication you see before you. I’ll leave it there before I get emotional; but suffice to say I am certainly looking forward to the new era and all the challenges and excitement it might bring, and I hope you, dear reader, will love it as well. Enjoy,
RHIANNON D'AVERC
PAGE 3
LONDON RUNWAY
London Runway Sustainability Awards
The Winners Many thanks to everyone who voted for the winners on our Instagram! We can finally announce the winners. As a reminder, the candidates were drawn from your nominations! After selecting those nominees which embodied our sustainable values to the highest degree, we came up with a shortlist in four categories - and here are the results at last!
Best Sustainable Designer SHORE AND PINE What's the story behind your brand? Shore and Pine is based on a personal discovery of the waste the fashion industry creates. It began during my time at university, and working in commercial fashion, but only really came to light when dressmaking at a professional level. The amount of fabric waste my small business was creating, through bespoke clothing and alterations off cuts, was astounding. If this was from a one person business, it’s scary to think about the scale of waste there would be from even just one high street clothing giant. I then made it my mission to create a brand that not only reduces the demand for new fabrics to be created, but one that minimises the impact the fashion industry has on the planet by using up 'waste' and looking at it from a different perspective. Why is sustainability important to you? Sustainability is the only way to save the fashion industry. We need to change our idea of what the fashion industry is and how it runs. Every single new item will exist somewhere on the planet for a very long time, if not forever. We have to reduce this demand for the constant consumption of new, and turn to using what already exists on this planet. There is a quote I go back to all the time by Maya Angelou:
"Without change, there would be no butterflies". Change is not just what the industry needs, but consumers need to change their perspectives too. I want to see more consumers choosing to buy something that has a past. Whether that be a vintage item, made from recycled fibres or repurposed from existing waste products. I hope the pieces I design and make can help reset the way we look at perfectly beautiful ‘wasted’ materials, and put a smile on your face! What can your customers expect from you? My customers can expect pieces that are one of a kind, because they are lovingly made out of what already exists in the world. I will always, if I can, tell the story that belongs to each piece, of what they used to be, so when they go to their new home their journey can continue I think that makes each one incredibly special. As a small business owner I can promise I pour part of my soul into every single thing I create and I hope my customers can truly feel that when they wear my pieces, as well as knowing that what they have bought does not harm our planet, it is better for it.
What would you like to say to your voters? I am beyond grateful to everyone who has voted for me. I quite literally could not do what I do without people like you who connect with me, my brand and what I create on any level. Thank you for being part of my journey and I hope you continue on it with me.
PAGE 4
LONDON RUNWAY
Best Sustainable Accessories Brand LITTLE BY LITTLE JEWELLERY
What's the story behind your brand? Little by Little: a sustainable jewellery brand that takes design inspiration from ingredients. Started by two friends, Annabel Cox and Georgina Fuggle who are an ethical jewellery designer and food writer respectively. The idea was born, over coffee, dreaming of ways to do business generously and raise funds for charity whilst doing so. The product followed, a happy combination of the girls’ passions. Since its conception there have been four collections: The Seville, The Mustard Seed, The Wedge and The Pip. Made with sustainable gold, silver and glass the collections each have their own distinct identity and quality. Why is sustainability important to you? At Little by Little we believe in the importance of empowering women and are so proud of our partnership with Luminary Bakery in North London. Little by Little Jewellery’s key sustainable values lie in championing a responsible social and environmental supply chain. We not only want to create beautiful jewellery; we also want to make a positive impact through our
production and packaging. We use local Peruvian silver, most of which is recycled, in the creation of our collections. Any virgin metal used is supplied by companies with rigorous environmental certifications that meet with strict labour standards and comply with human rights laws. What can your customers expect from you? Customers can expect a honest, beautiful product created with integrity. What would you like to say to your voters? Thank you for all the kindness and helping us fulfil our hopes through a small, sustainable business.
LONDON RUNWAY
Best Sustainable Store MY LITTLE GREEN WARDROBE What's the story behind your brand? My Little Green Wardrobe is an online store selling sustainable children’s clothing brands. The idea is to make clothing your little ones from top to toe in sustainably and ethically produced garments as easy and accessible as possible for modern day parents.
organisations which spelled out how damaging the fashion industry is environmentally and socially. I was so shocked that I couldn’t continue to shop on the high street any more and immediately tried to seek out better options.
The idea came about when I was trying to shop more sustainably for my own two girls.
For me, just stopping shopping wasn’t difficult as i already had plenty of clothes, but it was a more difficult task for my children - and I found it surprisingly difficult.
It took me a whole afternoon to buy just two items, researching various brands, checking their product specifications, and trying to ascertain the sustainability credentials of each particular garment.
So that;s when the concept of MLGW came up. I thought about it for quite some time, and thought if not me that does it, then who? And if not now, then when?
There had to be a better way.
There’s a climate emergency taking place and when i’m older and my children ask me what I did to try and prevent it, i’ll be able to answer honestly that I did as much as i could.
Why wasn’t there a site that had collated all this info already? That had checked out which brands were doing their bit for the planet, and could give parents the info about each one’s ethos in an easily-digestible format? AND wouldn’t it be great if you could have all of these awesome ethical brands under one roof so you could shop a wide range of them, safe in the knowledge all of their claims check out and without having to do the legwork yourself?? And so the idea behind the website was born.
Why is sustainability important to you? I feel like climate anxiety is definitely something that affects me. I worked in news as a journalist for the BBC for 15 years and so was always at the forefront of hard-hitting stories. The ones about climate change frighten me the most, and i’ve always tried to take action to reduce my impact. When I was working on the arts & entertainment desk for BBC News we’d cover major fashion events like Fashion Weeks. It was at this point that I received press releases from the likes of the Textile Exchange and other
PAGE 6
What can your customers expect from you? Every single item and brand on the site has been hand-picked and hand-vetted by me. I research each brand extensively and discuss with them the ways in which they are behaving ethically. Every single product has been awarded a set of values which it adheres to which means you can filter the clothing according to the values that matter most to you. For example, if you’re vegan or you want UK-made items then you can filter according to items that adhere to those criteria. You’ll also get articles and content around sustainability issues. After all, I am still a journalist at heart and writing and investigating issues is a passion!
What would you like to say to your voters? Thank you so much for your support!! As a small brand, any recognition is honestly really appreciated, and without you, I wouldn’t be here!
LONDON RUNWAY
ZOE'S STORY What's the story behind your brand? I started out on social media because I wanted a space to talk about clothes and life with a Disability. Disabled people are not that visible in the world of sustainable fashion (yet), and I wanted to be the representation I didn't have growing up. Because clothing is a massive part of who I am, the sustainability of my wardrobe is something I'm passionate about. I work as a dressmaker but it happened by chance after I posted a photo of a skirt I made and people loved it and asked where it was from, so I started selling them. I figured I'd maybe get a couple of commissions, but it's become my full time job. I predominantly use natural fibres, vintage, second hand, and deadstock fabric, and sustainability is a huge part of my brand ethics. I make clothing alongside my social media stuff and they tend to build off each other which has been really cool. Why is sustainability important to you? Making our lives more sustainable just feels like common sense, but some of the sustainability rhetoric can be pretty abelist. Plastic straws were invented as a medical aid, but the straw ban means even straws for medical use were removed. Nobody used any nuance in the argument, and many Disabled people who spoke about needing plastic straws got abuse online. I think it alienated people from the movement because they felt they didn't have a place in it. Living sustainably to me means doing the best you can, and making informed choices about what you consume, like biodegradable sponges rather than plastic. While also acknowledging that some people can't make the same lifestyle changes that you can. Many people living more sustainable lives does more for the future of our planet over time than a handful of people living a perfectly zero waste life.
My household halved the amount of plastic sent to landfill over the past 2 years by making a sustainable swap every month. Sustainability means a lot to me, not just because I want a better future for the planet, but because every community needs a voice in the movement, at the end of the day it really is everyone's problem! What can your followers expect from you? I really enjoy making educational videos alongside more basic fashion content. On Instagram I focus on slow/sustainable fashion and inclusivity in the industry but on YouTube I tend to do more sewing vlogs and tutorials. I studied conservation with the aim of becoming a textile conservator and fashion historian, so I love that I can learn from how people in the past managed without modern conveniences like plastic and manmade fibres and apply it in a contemporary context. I recreated medieval shoes using upholstery leather offcuts, so now I have a pair of fully biodegradable shoes which I absolutely love wearing in the summer. What would you like to say to your voters? Just finding out that I was nominated was an enormous honour and I was so, so excited about it. It means a lot when people show that they care about what I'm doing and what I stand for. I really didn't expect to win, so I was totally blown away by it all. I'm really grateful for the different opportunities that have come from working on social media; I've met and been supported by so many amazing people and it knocks my socks off to be honest, it's probably one of the coolest things that's ever happened to me, so thank you all!
PAGE 7
Images by Zoe / Jordane of @hareandheatherphoto
Sustainable Influencer of the Year
LONDON RUNWAY
HOUSE OF
IKONS FASHION WEEK LONDON
FEBRUARY 2023 House of iKons Fashion Week London live shows have pulled in over 1,000 people per day in attendance, with private clients, buyers, department stores and boutiques, also in attendance high net worth guests. Their designers have platformed world wide, and working with celebrities such as JLo, Katy Perry, Michelle Obama, Beyoncé and many more which can be
seen on their social media and various press. Designers have also been selected from the shows to be wardrobe design for feature films. 'Uniting the World of Creativity' under ONE roof. Highlighting: fashion, beauty, creativity, art, VR and diversity. Overcoming the current global obstacles FASHION CAN’T BE STOPPED, FASHION CAN NEVER BE
PAGE 8
STOPPED! The Fashion House has always taken great pride of offering opportunities to all creatives from all backgrounds and all ages from around the world upon their platform. This upcoming season the show continues to celebrate beauty and diversity on their platform of models of all AGES, SHAPE, HEIGHT, BACKGROUNDS from around the WORLD! Setting the STANDARD as market LEADERS not followers! The event will be held at the Leonardo Royal St Pauls London Hotel in the heart of the City of London on Saturday 18th February 2023. With new and emerging designers, performances and VIRTUAL experiences, HoI Fashion Week London will be continues to bring guests to a whole new EXPERIENCE in fashion. HoI Fashion Week London maintains their position as one of the top 6 brands Innovative Voices in The Fashion World on Wiki Vid. Which is which this platform stands for. Highlighting beauty, creativity from around the world pushing the boundaries that fashion, art and creativity is for everyone regardless of colour, ethnic origin, religious beliefs, size, age and sexual orientation and continues to showcase their creatives and shake the pillars of the fashion industry as the innovative voices of fashion.
LONDON RUNWAY Just a few highlights on some of our designers showcasing: This season Grand Opening of Segment ONE is Love Collection based in the UK of Vietnamese heritage. The designer Anna Hoang is 13 years old who has previously designed children’s wear. This season this young designer will be launching her first collection for men and women wears. As well as this launch, highlighting and celebrating the 50 year relationship between UK and Vietnam. At a young age Anna is being supported by the Vietnamese government officials both in UK and Vietnam. Our finale of Segment ONE, We are honoured that HM Queen Sirkit of Thailand will be supporting some of the most talented fashion brands from Thailand working with the Mayor of Yalacity who be bring some of the upcoming creative brands from Thailand.
Jeannie B. Cidel of JBCIDEL's early childhood years were filled with wonder as she navigated her love for bold colors, abstract art, geometric shapes and exquisite fashion. She had a creative imagination beyond her years and would often walk with a sketch pad to doodle fashion styles she longed to create. Jeannie had a recurring sensation for an avant-garde fashion styling concept inspired by extraordinary character. She used placemats, metal netting, burlap and rattan webbing found in her home to make clutch bags and would also attempt to create her own abstract art by painting bold colors onto blank canvas material. Jeannie rediscovered her gift of designing and handcrafting clutch bags following the 2008 Great Recession and put her creative talents to work. However, she could not find more high-quality fabrics or distinct artwork to fit her vision.
PAGE 9
This led Jeannie on a journey to search out high-quality textiles and signature works of art from distinguished Artists to complete her imagination for an exclusive, timeless and posh handbag collection. She ignited collaborations with world renown Artists: Roberto Alborghetti, Darryl Schiff and Fu Wenjun for their inspiring and iconic works that goes beyond traditions. Jeannie is now fulfilling her vision by elevating the styling of fashion enthusiasts with JCIDEL’s daring and quintessential handbag collection that transcends cultural norms.
LONDON RUNWAY Our solo segment will be the first of its kind. DivaBigg, returning to our platform, is launching their fashion film documenatry on fashion and plus size and how the industry is changing..... but is it changing fast enough? Is this really being embraced? This documentary will be high lighting the truths, the struggles and the change. The documenatry 'Fat is Fashion' will be exclusively premiered in London at our show, creating a cinematic experience including popcorn for all our guests. DivaBigg will also launch their latest collection for women with real 'Curves'.
André Soriano. Visionary, artist, and fashion genius. André’s designs and collection are a carefully crafted masterpiece in every work of art. His designs includes a variety of garments from active wear to classic evening wear, specialising in elegant bridal wear and couture gowns. Andre prides himself on only creating and selecting luxury fabrics such as silk, velvet, chiffon, satin, brocade, taffeta and charmeuse. Andre embraces the idea that ‘fashion is freedom.’ André Soriano's interest in the fashion apparel and design field began at an early age. His mother Josephine designed clothing for her family and
taught André the basics of clothing construction as well as exposing him to arts and theatrics. His designs have been featured in Italian Vogue and other national US publications. Andre was also the breakout star designer & TV personality In 2013, when he competed on the first season pg Bravo TV's “Styled to Rock”, a fashion reality show (produced by Robyn RIHANNA ) which gave him the exposure, and with that he amassed a rotating roster of celebrity clientele. This led to his designs being worn on multiple red carpets and award shows such as the Grammys, Golden Globes, and Emmy awards just to name a few.
LONDON RUNWAY The journey of this amazing designer is inspirational. In March of 2021, at the height of the Covid-19 global pandemic, two Filipina artists based in Europe founded the brand PamPinay as a social project. Pamela Gotangco, a multiawarded visual artist based in Switzerland and Christian Belaro, a graphic fashioner based in England were answering the need of Filipino women seamstresses and weavers in the Philippines. PamPinay is a collection of high-quality wearable art that showcases 100% Filipino made crafts. It aims to promote social entrepreneurship, sustainability and responsible branding. The materials for the collection included weaving from the various indigenous communities in the Philippines to provide income opportunities for the local artisans.
When the global pandemic paralyzed world economies, I was thinking of ways how my art could be part of the solution that the pandemic posed to women in the economically challenged areas of the Philippines”, says Pamela Gotangco. And for Christian Belaro, a year into the pandemic, it had become an imperative to support those in need. An online collaboration was formed when strict travel restrictions were imposed. The first design was born in May of 2021 and was produced a month after. The PamPinay process starts with Pamela Gotangco painting the fabric design in Switzerland, translating the design digitally in the United Kingdom, printing the fabrics in the Philippines.
Based in Germany, Maria of Maria Mahlmann - MM REMIX is established with a large client base and their designs are modern chic with a twist of vintage essence. Maria has worked with big brands such as Christian Lacroix and Coco Chanel to name but a few before establishing as an independent.
LONDON RUNWAY At the young age of 18 years, Zaira Christa is launching their very first couture collection on our platform. Zaira is studying music at Oxford University. With musical creative talent and a flair for fashion, Zaira’s collection will bring fashion and music together with their creations.
Based in Thailand, this will be the first time that Pimpa Paris will be showcasing internationally. Using the technique and unique fabric from Thailand, this designer has created garments with a unique Thai cultural essence which can be worn by any woman from any where around the world. Pimpa graduated from Chambre Syndicate de la Couture Parisienne. This is a well known high fashion and design institution boasting many famous alumni such as Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino Garavawi and Olivier Lepidus. Having spent over 15 years studying and working in France, she returned to
PAGE 15
Thailand and became a consultant and lecturer. Transferring her design knowledge and product development for communities through various projects of government, state enterprises, private sectors. Pimpa was given the opportunity to be a fashion design consultant for women's clothing and leather goods for the Sahapat Group. Independently she has been codesigning for the brand Rochelle. Pimpa was inspired with the brand's concept of simplicity. Now she has a project in collaboration with the brand Rochelle called Rochelle by Pimpa Paris.
LONDON RUNWAY First showcased on the House of iKons Fashion London Platform February 2017, since then Links by Gwen has showcased around the world. Each garment is made of chains and links. Each design is a creative piece of art. The technique used by this designer creates elegance in each piece, which is master craftmanship this designer has achieved.
Returning back to our platform from February 2020. Each gown is the perfect red carpet look. Since our London 2020 show, Will Franco has showcased around the world, and his designs featured in a number of international fashion publications such as Vogue and Harpers Bazaar.
More designers: Below, from top - Therese Marie Collection, Adrianna Ostrowska, Chavez, Jhay Layson, TAWA sponsored by Nydia Crick Image credits: Mark Gunter, Ram Eagle, Mok Photography, @ch_photoz, Jessica Smith, @mtuck1967, @jalb_films, Mariana London, Andreas Munchbach, Alfred Brandl, Neal Richardson, Carissa Glanton
LONDON RUNWAY
SCHEDULE FOR SHOW SATURDAY 18TH FEBRUARY 2023 Networking & Exhibition Starts from 12.00pm till 8.00pm: Exhibition doors open from 12.00pm Exhibitors: 1. Vip 360 2. Raaj K Aesthetics 3. Love Collection 4. PamPinay 5. AveriStar 6. Fantasma 7. JCIDEL 8. Park Pharmacy 9. Zilli Coffee 10. Nacharee Thai Kitchen 11. Zaira Christa 12. InfiniteAloe 13. Tawa sponsored by Nydia Crick
SOLO SEGMENT DivaBigg 4.00pm Premier of Documentary - ‘Fat is Fashion’ & Fashion Show of DivaBigg collection
For tickets for the show Website: www.houseofikons.com Further enquires: Email: info@hoifashionweeklondon.com Social Media: Instagram: @hoifashionweeklondon FaceBook: HoI Fashion Week London
Fashion Show: Segment ONE 2.00pm 1.GRAND OPENING: Love Collection 2.Adriana Ostrowska 3.DNB Couture represented by The Fashion Life Tour 4.JCIDEL 5.Hafanana Swimwear represented by The Fashion Life Tour 6.DivaBigg Music Performance: Anya Kay 7.Jhay Layson 8.The Fashion Life Tour 9.Therese Marie Collection 10. Love Collection 11. Andre Soriano 12. GRAND FINALE: Yalacity supported by HM The Queen Sirkit of Thailand Department of Agriculture
Fashion Show Segment TWO 5.00pm 1.GRAND OPENING: PIMPA Paris 2.Fantasma 3.Chavez 4.Jhay Layson 5.Maria Mahlmann MM REMIX Music Performance: Myles Smith 6.The Fashion Life Tour 7.CLC Couture 8.The Fashion Life Tour 9.Links by Gwen 10. Adriana Ostrowska Music Performance: Cooper Phillip 11. Pam Pinay 12. Perry Jones represented by The Fashion Life Tour 13. Zaira Christa 14. Tawa sponsored by Nydia Crick 15. GRAND FINALE - Will Franco
THE L
G a C y OF VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Amrit Virdi looks back at the legacy of Dame Vivienne Westwood after her tragic passing in December. You’d have to have been living under a rock to be unbeknown to the impact of legendary British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood. Being a pioneer in merging together fashion and punk music in the new wave era, her work has been celebrated across the world by consumers and designers alike. Dame Westwood studied jewellery and silversmith at the University of Westminster, and was previously a primary school teacher before venturing into fashion. It is clear that she came from humble beginnings and gained her notoriety through hard work, selling her own jewellery at a Portobello Road stall and making her own wedding dress for her first wedding in 1962. A pivotal moment which, in a sense, defined the trajectory of Dame Westwood’s career was her collaboration with renowned band Sex Pistols, who brought Vivienne’s designs to public attention as they were styled in them. Her second husband Malcolm McLaren was the manager of the punk band. With the Sex Pistols becoming a key statement of the 1970s wave of punk fashion, McLaren and Westwood capitalised upon this growing trend by opening SEX, a boutique that defined fashion in the punk movement in 1971, which was eventually renamed as Worlds End in 1979. Here, Vivienne sold graphic tees donning controversial words and symbols and bondage trousers, as well as plenty of leather and biker zips— a far cry from the colourful disco fashion that was in the spotlight at the time. In terms of the punk scene, Dame Westwood’s legacy to this current day is undeniable. SEX and her punk designs
Image Mattia Passeri via Wikimedia Commons
e
gave people who may have felt like ‘outcasts’ in everyday life a place to meet, congregate, and find fashion they resonated with. Though some criticised the frayed edges and slashes in clothes that made them look ‘unfinished’, it represented something more— a rebelling against societal norms of what fashion should be. Dame Westwood classed her designs as being independent, and she did not stay defined to the punk realm. Vivienne held her first official collaborative catwalk show with McLaren in 1981, embracing a romantic style which still lives on in the fashions of Rick Owens
and Matty Bovan. Vivienne used it as a way to express her love of colour and advance her designs to not being limited to the traditional punk realm, coinciding with Richard Buckley’s observation of punk taking a more light-hearted stance at this time. The New Romantic look, embodied in the Pirate collection which was showcased in 1981, was flamboyant and bold, breaking even more barriers as it was also partly inspired by Native American patterns. Eye-catching stripes and swirls, baggy trousers, oversized shirts, and pirate-style hats embodied the collection, along with golds,
LONDON RUNWAY oranges, and yellows. These motifs were influential to a number of people, particularly to Adam and the Ants who took inspiration from this type of fashion and Dame Westwood’s traditional punk leather looks to inform their onstage looks.
Taking inspiration from all sources, Dame Westwood made her collections culturally relevant, naming her Autumn/Winter 1984-85 collection ‘Clint Eastwood’, in reference to the actor, and releasing a collection inspired by Blade Runner.
The extravagant ‘pirate’ motifs weren’t limited to the 1980s. It inspired looks throughout her collection as vibrant patterns in a ‘sophisticated yet raggedy castaway’ style seemed to reoccur, particularly in her Spring 1993 collection.
It also seemed as if the punk motifs were being abandoned altogether. Moving away from punk themes and towards clothes which parodied the upper classes, Dame Westwood invented her iconic ‘Mini-Crini’ in 1985, taking inspiration from Victorian fashion. Mixing the corsetstyle Victorian crinoline and the miniskirt, it merged together old and new in a fashionable way. She kept this mission of merging worlds throughout her career as she brought together old and new again when designing academic gowns for King’s College London in 2007. Teaching in Vienna and Berlin, Vivienne’s desire to shape the younger generation also was apparent in her ethos and branding.
A relocation to Italy in 1984 propelled Vivienne Westwood to the next level as she showcased her Spring/Summer 1984 Hypnos Collection in Tokyo after being invited as part of Hanae Mori’s global fashion awards. This collection went away from the punk scene once more as it embraced brighter colours and parachute style clothes. Carving out her own solidified space in the fashion industry, particularly after the dissolution of her label with Malcolm McLaren after their divorce, it was clear she was becoming a worldwide name. Image via Unsplash
With her name becoming more
prominent than ever before, it signalled a key moment for the innovative branding that would symbolise her fashion. The orb logo was invented in 1986 as Vivienne was under the wing of Fiorucci in Italy following her divorce. As she moved to Italy, she was inspired by images of royalty, luxury, and evolving traditions into the future when designing. It was then, via experimentation, that the orb logo was born, and it symbolised taking tradition into the future. It first appeared on the Harris Tweed in the 1987-88 Autumn/Winter collection and has been an iconic piece of imagery ever since. When you think of Vivienne Westwood, the orb is generally what comes to mind first, and this rings true even in 2023. Her shoes, bags, and clothing all have the iconic orb on them somewhere, but 2021 saw the resurgence in popularity of Vivienne Westwood’s jewellery amidst the y2k trends rising in popularity. The Mini Bas Relief Pearl Choker, often paired with the Mini
LONDON RUNWAY
Bas Relief Orb Earrings, were so popular that they were almost impossible to get hold of. With the orb available in different sizes and colours— either gold, silver, or rose gold, it emphasised how Dame Westwood had the ability to make her designs accessible to people of different styles and different generations. Whether paired with a bodycon skirt and shirt for the office or with cargos and a crop top for an everyday look, the Bas Relief jewellery line managed to find its way into almost every outfit— a testament to Vivienne Westwood’s legacy. From the 1990s onwards, Dame Westwood’s impact was recognised even further with a slew of accolades. John Fairchild classed her as one of the world’s top six designers in his 1989 book, and she won the British Fashion Council’s award for ‘Fashion Designer of the Year’ two years in a row in 1990 and 1991. Additionally, she also received a Damehood in 2006. Celebrities across the world have worn Vivienne’s designs, including Princess Eugenie, Pharrell Williams, and Dua Lipa. Dame Westwood’s introduction of wedding gowns into her collection in 1992 also led her to gain even more publicity among the celebrity world. Dita Von Teese wore a purple gown designed by Vivienne Westwood for her wedding in 2005,
Images: above, Sargoth via Wikimedia Commons; right, Kwh1050 by Wikimedia Commons
and the 2008 film adaptation of Sex and the City featured its main character being sent a handwritten note and wedding dress from Westwood herself. After the film was premiered, a knee-length version of the dress was able to buy, and this sold out in hours. Throughout the later stages of her life, Westwood’s contributions as an avid activist really shined. In late 2022, she founded a not-for-profit company with her sons and her granddaughter titled The Vivienne Foundation, which is set to launch late 2023 in honour of her legacy. Their aim to create change by working with NGOs, tackling climate change, stopping war, defending human rights and protesting capitalism. Her legacy stretched across international charities having worked with charities such as Amnesty International, Liberty, and War Child, but the main focus of her activism was around preventing climate change. As an ambassador for Greenpeace, she launched a global campaign to stop drilling and industrial fishing in the Arctic in 2015. Creating change specifically within the fashion world was also a goal of Vivienne’s, which manifested in multiple ways. Her ‘Made in Kenya’
LONDON RUNWAY collaboration launched in 2010, which was a partnership with the United Nations supporting the Ethical Fashion Initiative and Artisan Fashion. Her 2018 collaboration with Burberry was also in support of a UK not-for-profit organisation called Cool Earth, which raises money to protect endangered forests and ecosystems to fight global warming. In a similar vein, she partnered with Eastpak for the ‘SAVE OUR OCEANS’ line of bags in July 2020, and partnered with not-for-profit organisation Canopy for Earth Day 2020, campaigning to protect forests through fabric choices. Her last physical fashion show was the 2019 London Fashion Week before she made the decision to go digital for environmental reasons. With an astounding legacy such as this, it is no wonder that there was an outpouring of condolences from celebrities of different industries
from all over the world. Bella Hadid, Naomi Campbell, Jamie Lee Curtis, Victoria Beckham, Paul McCartney, and Marc Jacobs are just a few of the big names who paid tribute to the designer, with Stella McCartney writing that "Vivienne pushed every single boundary and held her head so high." "Fashion is life-enhancing and I think it's a lovely, generous thing to do for other people." This is one of Dame Vivienne Westwood’s most famous quotes, and it certainly rings true to her work. While she started out with fashion, Dame Westwood has used the platform that it gave her to shine a light on a wealth of societal issues and has taken the fashion world a step further. As people of all ages still buy her designs today and her activism lives on through the Vivienne Foundation, it is
clear that she has left an amazing legacy and will go down in history as one of the fashion greats. You can read more of Amrit’s work via her portfolio, amritvirdi.journoportfolio.com, or by following her Instagram @thevinylwriter. Image below by Kathleen Conklin from Wikimedia Commons
Ruth wears: Skirt - Castro; Shoes Wizo Pardes Hanna; Corset forever21; Jewellery - private collection; Jacket - Reiko
Models: Ruth Avraham, Danielle Liani @daniellani18 Wardrobe Stylist/Makeup Artist: Shani Brown @shani.brown.makeup Assistants: Michal Edri Shvartz @michalook.photography, Shaked Zusman Soffer @szs_photograhy Nail Artist: Lilach Azimi @lilach_lushy Hair Stylist: Maayan Maimon @maimonmaayan Photographer: Stav Schneider Ashuah @stav_a_sch_photography Fashion Designer: Naama Cohen Teva
THE NEW BRIDES
Danielle wears - Bra: Wizo Pardes Hanna; Slip: Presence; Jewellery: private collection
Ruth wears - Wedding dress: Naama Cohen Teva Designs; Jewellery: private collection
Danielle wears - Dress: Wizo Pardes Hanna; Jewellery: private collection
Ruth wears: Pants - Terminal X; Shirt and bag - Wizo Pardes Hanna; Shoes - Grazia Donna
Ruth wears - Jacket: Zara; Shirts: Laloca; Jewellery: private collection. Danielle wears Dress: Zara; jewellery: Renuar
Danielle wears - Pants: Shein; Shoes and bag: Renuar; Bodysuit and jewellery: private collaction
Ruth wears: Jacket: Zara; Jewellery: private collection
Danielle wears - Wizo Pardes Hanna
Ruth wears - Corset: forever21; Jewellery: private collection; Jacket: Reiko
Ruth wears - Shoes: Renuar; Dress: Mango; Bag: private collection
Danielle wears - Dress: Zara; Shoes, jewellery and hair bow: Renuar
Ruth wears - Pants and Boots: Renuar; Jacket: Zara; Shirts: Laloca; Jewellery: private collection
Ruth wears Wedding dress: Naama Cohen Teva Designs; Jewellery: private collection
HAVE FAITH FASHION in
LONDON RUNWAY
THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN RELIGIONS AND STYLE Kwabena Gyane looks at the relationship between religions and fashion. To say fashion and religion have a troubled relationship would be presenting matters in the lightest way possible. Their relationship is turbulent if nothing else. Their chaotic connection throughout history is one that can never be severed as, although less severe, it is still present to this day. When presented with the words fashion and religion, many see these two as residing at opposite ends of a spectrum, only interacting when need be, since religious people do need to wear clothes. To some, when it comes to religion, there is a belief of uniformity, even with different denominations, core values, and belief systems staying roughly consistent. This sense of
homogeneity also lends to religions being seen as conservative in nature. Fashion on the other hand gets given the image of innovation that’s constantly changing and evolving, evident in the trends departing as quickly as they were brought to the limelight. Self-expression through clothing has been the beating heart of fashion, especially in modern times, and while both religion and fashion can reflect identity, it is fashion that remains at the forefront of it as, like identity, fashion is presented as forever fluid. So, we have two seemingly opposing forces, one supposedly linked to limitations while the other is associated with liberation. With their continuous friction, in more ways than one, how do they seem to find ways to influence the other?
SECULAR IN THE SACRED: FASHION IN RELIGION Fashion will always be attached to religion and not just because of the disdain that many believe religions, especially the Abrahamic faiths, have for the temporal taint fashion leaves on people. As stated before, almost everyone needs clothes, and one cannot break away from that fact. From soutanes to hijabs, turbans to bekishe, the importance of religious clothing and their connection to religious teachings usually gets them removed from the topic of clothing in general. They are often placed in a different sphere, not to be addressed in the same sentence as secular clothes unless to show contrast.
LONDON RUNWAY However, fashion is submerged in religion, whether anyone likes it or not. Different people in the same denomination can sometimes wear different religious attire based on how they want to present themselves, showing how important fashion is in self-expression, however limiting. For example, with Islamic head coverings, there is the hijab, the khimar, and the niqab all performing the same role while having different silhouettes. Fashion in religion extends further than religious clothing. As many religions uphold the practice of modesty, especially when it comes to women, a question suddenly presents itself— how do religious people particularly women engage with fashion outside of a religious setting while still standing by their beliefs? While there is a plethora of fashion items that adhere to the idea of modesty, from turtlenecks to maxi
dresses, some activities such as sports require garments that meet different requirements from mobility and stretch to moisture-wicking, allowing for comfort and durability. Created by Aheda Zanetti, the burqini, a portmanteau of the words bikini and burqa, does exactly what it says on the tin. Covering the body and the head, it allows women, primarily Muslim women, to participate in sports while still being modest. The burqini would later go on to be worn by other women from other faiths and even non-religious women. The burqini highlights the innovation of fashion in religion as, due to faith, many Muslim women cannot engage in activities that might compromise their faith, and head coverings in sports were seen as a safety hazard. The creation of the burqini saw the cooperation of religion and fashion outside of a religious setting— one could still engage
with the world of fashion without giving up aspects of the belief systems. Another fashion item that caters to the needs of modesty is the sports hijab. Functioning as a normal hijab would, it was designed by Cindy van den Bremen after witnessing the hostility shown to Muslim girls, especially when it came to sports and their attire. These modest clothes can be found in numerous stores these days. Sport hijabs are sold by Nike and Sweaty Betty among others, while burqinis can be found on websites like LYRA Swimwear and Modanisa UK, showing not only the general need for them but also their commercial appeal. In 2016, at New York Fashion Week, Anniesa Hausban showcased her collection, which ranged from gowns to tunics, all paired with a hijab. In doing so, she became the first designer at such an event to showcase modest clothing in this manner. Faith fashion, as I call fashion that is created due to religious necessity, must always find a way to appeal to both the religious traditionalist values and fashion forward expectations.
WORSHIP IN THE WORLDLY: RELIGION IN FASHION Unlike faith fashion, which puts religion at the forefront of its creation, religion in fashion serves primarily as inspiration. It plays a role without dictating the direction of the fashion. The most recent religion in fashion moment many can remember would have to be the 2018 Met Gala. With the theme being “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and The Catholic Imagination”, it was the epitome of fashion being inspired by religion, and in this case, inspiration was pulled from the largest Christian denomination. From Rihanna donning a mitre and robe encrusted with pearls and jewels to Zendaya in her Joan of Arc inspired metallic gown, the event had Catholicism present purely for its aesthetical value. This is not the only time religion has found its way into fashion.
LONDON RUNWAY In 2013, Dolce & Gabbana had the Byzantine and Venetian mosaics on their dresses, inspired by the Cathedral of Monreale located in Sicily. Alexander McQueen decided to showcase a mixture of Christianity and Islam in 2000, supposedly inspired by the friction and conflict of the two Abrahamic faiths. Judaism served as Jean-Paul Gautier’s source of inspiration in 1993 for his line Chosen People. The line was said to have used elements of the religion inappropriately, as one would expect when inspiration is only surface level. This can sometimes be the issue some have with religion in fashion because religion takes a backseat and is there for décor purposes. Little thought is sometimes put into it, unlike faith fashion which needs to always have faith in mind. However, there are collections which, although would not be described as faith fashion, do take their time to understand aspects of the religion they pull inspiration from and how it works with their fashion pieces. This could be due to their knowledge of the said religion. An example being Vivienne Tam’s Buddha Collection back in 1997 which had Buddha imagery paired with silhouettes that were in line with the fashion of the time. When it comes to religious iconography, fashion loves a crux immissa. It is found on several fashion items, from shirts to rings to trousers. It has become so commonplace that most people do not even think of the religious significance when they purchase garments with this sacred symbol. Christianity was able to root itself so deep into the very fabric of our everyday lives that a religious piece was able to exist as both a holy symbol and a fashionable figure.
LIMITATION AND LIBERATION: FASHION AND RELIGION Limitations of fashion within religion are mostly said to apply to women, with the notion of modesty primarily targeting them. In the meanwhile, the list of rules either does not apply to men or is never implemented as it is with the opposite gender.
It is evident that religion can and does pose limitations to clothing and aspects of self-expression. Fashion is not as liberating as many would think. From seasonal trend reports to articles on the “Top Ten Things to Have in Your Wardrobe This Year”, fashion has its rules and limitations that many, whether conscious of it or not, adhere to. Clothes are made with seasonal styles and material types in mind before they hit the racks at specific periods, the choice being made for individuals before they even enter a store. Fashion trends can be seen as limiting in nature as well because they require people to follow them, creating a period of sameness and loss of selfexpression. Even those who go against fashion trends and fashion expectations are locked to it as they are constantly involved and informed by the current styles to break from them. While religion is sometimes attached to limitation, fashion also has elements of it. However, its presentation allows it to be seen as mostly liberating— both
require a level of conformity to properly navigate them. While boundaries are being pushed with faith fashion, religion and fashion both require a level of conformity to properly navigate them. You can read more of Kwabena's work at clippings.me/users/kwabenagyane , whereifoundmyeyes.com/ and @whereifoundmyeyes on Instagram. Images via Unsplash, Canva, and Pexels
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW BUSINESS PRETTYSPOOKYDESIGNS Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
Name of company: prettyspookydesigns Type of business: Jewellery, accesories and homeware Location: Norfolk, UK
What are your company values? My main value is inclusion, I make fun accessories for people to express themselves, my pieces can be worn by any age, race or gender. I want people to be able to feel powerful and confident!
How long has the company been running? I have been running my business for almost 2 years now. Where did the idea come from? I have always been super artistic and I love trying new materials to work with. I was made redundant at the end of lockdown and with limited jobs available in my area I decided to take a plunge and dabble in polymer clay. I had so much fun playing with it, I made some earrings for my first ‘drop’. From there I’ve massively improved my techniques and designs, added lots of different items to my shop and I’m having the best time doing it! Currently, how many people work for the business? I am a “one man band”. I make all of my designs by hand, photograph each piece and do all of the marketing for it myself.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? Two words, do it! Definitely research everything beforehand, book keeping and the admin side can be daunting so make sure you know what you’re dealing with. Don’t listen to opinions, if it’s what you want to do and it’s something you’re passionate about then definitely give it a go, put your heart into it and make something you’re proud of Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years time? I’d like to continue growing, to be financially stable running my business, so that I can earn a full time wage doing what I love! I have a few product ideas I’d like to pursue in the future, one of them being pottery/ceramics.
PAGE 40
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: KATERINA Name: Katerina Proseniuk Age: 24 Location: I’m currently based in London. Agency: I’ve worked with Titanium for 6 months and am now looking for new opportunities. How long have you been modelling for? I started my modelling career at the age of 19. I showcased my work on Instagram while I was still based in Odessa, Ukraine. Very quickly, offers started flowing in, I was invited to join modelling trips in Europe. Where are you from originally? I come from a small village called Tatarbunary, 140 km from Odessa, Ukraine. I was raised in Odessa where my mother and grandfather work, and I went to university there.
would write down their signature on paper without me knowing, and I identified each signature. What would surprise people to know about you? I am a good singer. My grandfather was a musician and a headmaster of a music school. He wanted me to become a pianist, but I had a bit of a problem with rhythm. It didn’t stop me from singing though. I love singing and sometimes sing for my friends. I’m very good at drawing portraits, too. My grandmother graduated from an art college and taught art. I learned from her.
What are your modelling ambitions? When the Ukraine wins, I want to be the face of this victory, featuring on London buses, the tube, and on big billboards. I’m already working on it with a local company. I also want to be on the Do you have an unusual talent or party world’s best runways. I hope more trick? publications in well-known magazines I am a very good graphologist – I can will support it, so I’m grateful to you for determine personality traits by someone’s handwriting. People at parties the opportunity to feature here.
Model: Katerina @kate.pros_ Photographer: Marina Arcady @marina.arcady Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Anna Golubova @londoner.makeup
PAGE 42
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: KATERYNA Name: Kateryna Age: 18 Location: Ukraine, Kyiv Agency: Freelance
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can talk in a baby voice.
How long have you been modelling for? 1 year.
What would surprise people to know about you? That I was in a horror movie.
Where are you from originally? Ukraine, Kyiv.
What are your modelling ambitions? I didn't think about a modelling career.
Model: Kateryna @haydaakk Photographer: Iryna Lepska @muracvovaphoto
PAGE 44
LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE: RUSHANA Name: Rushana Abraeva Age: 34 Location: Uzbekistan, Tashkent Agency: Freelance
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Well, I’m artistic person and I love to create beauty, I’m a make up artist and making beautiful ladies look more beautiful on their special days or events of their memorable life, and I’m happy to be part of it.
How long have you been modelling for? As freelancer, modeling wasn’t my main career, so I was doing it as a hobby for 7What would surprise people to know 8 years. about you? That I’m a mother to a beautiful 5 year Where are you from originally? I’m originally from Uzbekistan, a child of old princess. great people known for their hospitality. What are your modelling ambitions? Our culture is very colorful and my great ambition is to represent our women on the world beauty arena so Studio: Elena Bochkareva @evia_art everybody could be familiar that our Model/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: part of a world holds a precious marvel Abraeva Rushana @makeup_rushana of a beauty. Photographer: Anna Miller @phmiller.a
PAGE 46
VISUAL POETRY Photographer: Carina Plescan @carina.plescan Hair Stylist: Liviu Gudor Makeup Artist: Alexandra Pop Model: Alina F. Munteanu Wardrobe: Maya Fashion Cluj
LONDON RUNWAY
THE DARK LADY’S WARDROBE Em Poncia dives into the eccentric wardrobe of the multi-talented and forever iconic Cher. From the inception of her illustrious career, Cher has been known for her outlandish and dazzling style. Throughout the decades, it is clear that she has struck the perfect balance between of-the-moment trends and her own uniqueness, culminating in an iconic fashion oeuvre. The decade of flower power and bohemianism was the one during which Cher burst onto the music scene. Her debut album All I Really Want to Do reached number 16 on the Billboard 200. She was known for her matching
outfits with then-husband Sonny Bono, with whom she released several songs. One 1968 portrait session had the two posed in fur jackets, and they often matched one another in public. Whatever Cher did, she did over the top. As well as winning multiple music awards, including the Billboard icon award, she was a TV and film star. She had The Sonny and Cher Show with her husband for a whole decade, as well as winning an Oscar for her acting in Moonstruck in 1986. This theme of excess spilled over into her wardrobe, showcasing some of the most outlandish fashion moments of the 20th century, whether that was at
award shows or in portrait sessions that took place in her own home. Cher arrived to the 1974 Met Gala dazzling in a sheer gown where the only covering offered were small sequins in traversing patterns, with sleeves and legs that billowed into plumes of white feathers at the end. This look defined the Met Gala that year, inspiring the ‘naked gown’ trend of decades later, most famously seen on Kim Kardashian in 2022. Throughout her career, Cher worked very closely with designer Bob Mackie, whom she had met on the set of The Carol Burnett Show, when she appeared
as a guest. Mackie’s very flamboyant style matched Cher’s, and he designed many of her most iconic outfits, including the naked gown. This cut-out dress (above) from 1972
was worn for an at-home portrait session whilst Sonny and Cher was on air. It is a complex design with bold patterns, a long train, and daring cut outs that displayed Cher’s statuesque long torso. Cher’s iconic hoop earrings
and high ponytail that cascaded down her back were also features. Mackie designed this black sequin look (below) with a matching feather headdress which was also incredibly
over-the-top. Worn to collect her Oscar in 1986, the daring outfit featured a fully bared midriff and matching crop top and skirt with zig-zag edges in sparkly black. The top had a lattice detail seen on the singer/actress’s choker as well. The whole look was topped off by a large feather headdress. Cher herself said that she wore the outfit to hit back at the Academy members who did not take her seriously. At 71 years old, Cher took to the stage at the Billboard Awards in a sheer jumpsuit over lingerie, replicating her 2010 VMA look (above). These two outfits “turned back time” to what is possibly Cher’s most iconic song: “If I Could Turn Back Time”. In the video for this number one hit of 1989, Cher wore a similar look. She even donned a large black curly wig at the award shows to mirror the original outfit. The outfit, condemned by military personnel, was daring when Cher wore it at 42; her rewearing it at 71 reflected her bold and
non-conformist approach to fashion. Cher is, among all things, an icon. Her fashion sense is but an extension of her over-the-top and uniquely Cher approach to life. It seemed as if she saw dressing herself as an artform, never missing an opportunity to be avantgarde and entirely new. She once said, “I’ve never compromised who I am, not ever. If I’ve gotten anywhere in life it’s been on my own merits.” To read more of Em’s work, go to her twitter @emponcia. Images via Instagram @Cher and via respective record companies.
LONDON RUNWAY
AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON
Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino_official
Designers: Afro Couture London Oyaato Allenzo Cefostyl Gary Pie Edele A Knitsandbobs KLR Max Chidera Kaffy Kreate
CONTINUED
PAGE 57
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 58
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 59
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 60
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 61
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 62
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 63
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 64
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 65
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 66
STYLE (CONS CIOUS) GUIDE
LONDON RUNWAY
SELECTED BY RHIANNON D'AVERC HVISK Renei vegan leather cross body bag in metallic pink £75
BY11 Cuffed beanie in raspberry £20
STORM LABEL Queen of hearts mesh top £75.00
KHU KHU Blow me 'kisses' fan £50
GIRLFRIEND COLLECTIVE High rise bike shorts £40
LA MUSA Heart Corset £466.00
AGGI Tracey true red pants £225.00
JORI PAPA Elsa Red Watermelon Mule £320.00
PAGE 67
STYLE (CONS CIOUS
BUFFALO Aspha STR vegan platform sandals in rose £85
WAHTS Reese Linen Pocket T-Shirt €79
CDLP 3 × Boxer Brief Black £78
CDLP Home trousers in burgundy £180
KOI FOOTWEAR Ecstasy Rave Culture Men's Trainers £45.00
STYLE CONS CIOUS)
FOR MY SWEETHEART
LONDON RUNWAY
Lilly + Sid love organic t-shirt £16.00
John Lewis Wooden Rocking Unicorn £45.00
Lilly + Sid Rainbow raincoat £36.00
Salinas Henna leggings £68.00
PAGE 68
Cara london Makeup Artist: Amy Charlotte MUA @amycharlottemakeupartist Photographer: Tom Jeavons @tomjeavons Dress Supplier: Molly Dolly's @mollydolly_bridal Model: Cara London @caralondonmodelling Venue: Westenhanger Castle @thecastlewestenhanger
OLLI Photoshoot Photography - Olivia Shank @madebyolli_ and Kristine Liu @krisliuliu Wardrobe: Olivia Shank @madebyolli_ Models: Olivia Shank @madebyolli_; Candice Wu @candice_x9; Eden Ashebir @the_edenashebir; Anyelina Yudian Wu Zhai @anyexhyde; Kanwal Sajila @dulgasarain_09; Dominique Vargas @domivargas; Arielle Djokoto @mlle_arielle; Sarah Jang @sarahswish111; Kristine Liu @krisliuliu; Deborah Salisu @debbhaj
Top (Left to Right): Arielle, Deborah, and Candice Bottom (Left to Right): Anyelina, Kristine, and Sarah
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 81
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 85
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 87
LONDON RUNWAY
BEHIND-THE-SCENES AT THE OLLI PHOTOSHOOT Candice recounts her experience at the Olli Photoshoot back in October of 2022, providing a behind-the-scenes glimpse of the shoot. Having moved to New York City for my Songwriting masters program only two months prior in August of 2022, it would be an understatement to say that I jumped headfirst into this bustling city. Despite having been in NYC prior in 2019, my month then only provided a glimpse of what the city had to offer, not to mention the torrent of changes post-Covid. This time around, with my stay extended to two years for my program, I wanted to throw myself further out of my comforts and take advantage of the opportunities I would never have seen myself doing back home. That's how I found myself volunteering for this photoshoot advertised on a Facebook group with a bunch of strangers, zero modelling experience, and a boatful of nerves. But what an experience it turned out to be! My initial nervousness quickly dissipated as I met the girls one by one. Everybody had different backgrounds and levels of experience, and they were all either equally nervous or reassuring!
The table was full of accessories, such as a disco ball helmet, a pink basketball handbag, and an assortment of colourful, funky sunglasses. We shot inside this gorgeous high-rise apartment in Long Island City and outside of the roof terraces where panoramic views of the city could be seen. As the sun was setting, the temperatures dropped and the wind was near unbearable. However, even with the flying light reflectors and whipping hair, everybody kept hyping each other up and helping out to get the best picture for each other. Everybody even indulged me in learning and filming a TikTok dance challenge to Beyoncé's "Cuff It". I definitely left with a core memory and longlasting friends. It was a great introduction to the city and a leap of faith that I needed, not to mention the great photos and confidence boost! If you're moving to a new city, join a random photoshoot, public hangout, or Facebook group (always prioritise your safety of course!). Immerse yourself in everything the city has to offer, and you'll be finding yourself making all these memorable memories before you know it! The tops are from Made by Olli. They are up-cycled pieces from old sports jerseys, Nike tops, or athletic laces. The designs featured a mix of corsets and straight-neck crop tops. The overall aesthetics of the shoot was a mix of athletic retro and Y2K. You can find the brand on Depop @oliviabshank or Instagram @madebyolli_. You can view Candice's works on Instagram @candice_x9.
LONDON RUNWAY
AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON
Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino_official
Designers: Zhena Woman Woman King by Adire Oodua Mumini Fashion Zizi Cardow Hertumba Mira's Designs TruFlair Bridal Fashion by Ashari Oyaato
CONTINUED
PAGE 95
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 96
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 97
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 98
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 99
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 100
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 101
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 102
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 103
LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON NEW YEAR'S DAY PARADE Photography by Pietro Recchia
PAGE 103
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 104
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 105
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 106
LONDON RUNWAY
PAGE 107
LONDON RUNWAY
EMERALD AFFAIR FASHION SHOW Designers: Tuxedo Lady @tuxedolady, Mahogany Brown Bridal @mahoganybrownbridal Makeup Artist: Johnatha Camp @jcampmua Hair Stylist: Linda @legacyluxhair Photographer: Michael Ivery @eg_mediaprofessionals Models: Kia @kia7slim, Tanajah Wallace @thetanajahwallace, Xavier Rashad @zuavedadon, Arnell @arnellauddyne, Kiya Williams @ma._.kiya, Darling Nikki @yourcharlottebfff
PAGE 108
How a Book Could Benefit Your Business Releasing a book may not be on the radar for most small business owners or entrepreneurs – but it could make a huge difference to your business. Rhiannon D’Averc, a ghostwriter who creates books for businesses and individuals, explains how.
brand, position you as an expert, send new customers to your website, and create brand loyalty in your readers. Let’s go through a few of the many benefits a book written in your name could bring you.
POSITION YOURSELF AS AN EXPERT
The market for books is still huge and growing in 2023. Readers have voracious appetites – and although there seems to be an almost endless amount of choice out there for books, there’s always room for more.
One of the best ways to show that you’re an expert is to literally write the book on the subject.
When it comes to business, books are one of the biggest tools that many business owners are missing out on. Amongst other things, a business book could build your personal
Think about this: when you reach for a business book, do you believe the person who wrote it knows what they’re talking about? Of course, you do – or you wouldn’t bother reading what
they have to say. But the truth is, the author behind that book is just someone like you – someone who built their own business and learned a few things along the way. If you’ve had successes and failures, if you’re made mistakes that helped you grow, if you know what it takes to build a brand – you have expertise that a reader would love to learn from. Once you publish a book, you’ll be seen as an expert in your field. This can open a lot of opportunities. It will make you the first person readers turn to for your services. Anyone who wants to learn more may be interested in coaching
services Offer the book as added value in a course or package you offer: when your customer purchases an offer worth X, they’ll also get the book for free. Once the book is written, it doesn’t cost you a thing extra to send it out digitally over and over again! Add a call to action in several places throughout the book, and most importantly at the end, reminding readers why, how, and where they should purchase your goods or services Tell readers to follow you for more of the same content – although you must follow through with this promise! Offer the book as a free download on your website in exchange for signing up to your mailing list
services, which you can offer at a premium. If you’re thinking about branching out into a new business, it will give you a foundation of trust on which to build. In fact, writing and publishing a book can be an incredibly useful step for anyone who wants to build their personal brand – a way to make sure your expertise and legacy is recognised, even if you sell your current business and move on. One of my clients decided to write a book about how to build businesses from the ground up, without any investments or capital to begin with. After we published the book, he sold that first business for $10 million. Because he was already positioned as an expert thanks to his book, he was able to not only start a new business with his existing skills – but also start consulting, and bring those who were loyal users of his first service over to his new business in a different service area. They felt they knew him, not just his business – but more on loyalty later!
DRIVE CUSTOMERS TO YOUR WEBSITE One of the easiest ways to use a book as a marketing tool is to turn it into a lead generator. There are a few ways you can do this, and you’re not limited in how you choose them. In fact, you can start off selling your book on an online marketplace such as Amazon, and later on move it to being a free giveaway on your website once you’ve replaced it with a new volume. Or, you could give it away for free first to get some good reviews and then sell it. You’re in control! Here are some ideas to consider: Sell the book online (Amazon, etc) and include a free worksheet that your readers can download on your website. As part of the deal, they get added to your mailing list – and you can pop them into an automatic sales funnel to offer your goods or
LONDON RUNWAY I’ve even used this last strategy myself. In order to get readers to sign up to my newsletter advertising my latest fiction releases, I offer a couple of short stories for free as downloadable PDFs. The great thing is I can see in the statistics of my mailing service that almost all my subscribers do download those PDFs. That means my lead generator is working! Moreover, I know whenever I tweet, repost, or share my y free story offer, I always get a bunch of new subscribers who want that freebie. And there’s another upside to this, too…
CREATE LOYALTY IN YOUR READERS Because the free download is something closely related to my brand and showcasing my product,
the subscribers tend to stick around for a long time, too. They can see that I’m a good writer, so they want more. By demonstrating your expertise on a subject, you’ll also show your readers that you know what you’re talking about – so they’ll be right there with you. Take the example of my client who ran a wedding planning service. Together, we wrote a book which was a whole guide on how to plan a wedding. We took readers right through from start to finish, even including some of the tips of the trade that she had picked up over her long career. The interesting thing is that when the people who read this book decided they wanted a wedding planner rather than doing it all themselves, they knew who to call. In fact, that call to action was embedded right in the book, reminding readers again and again that they could take out all the time and effort from the process
and just hire a planner. Because they knew and trusted my client – after reading her book and feeling like they got to know her through her words – they chose her as their planner instead of shopping around.
BUT WAIT… AM I GIVING AWAY MY SECRETS? One objection I hear from time to time is that business owners think by explaining everything they know, they’ll actually be losing business. They think customers will just carry out the service themselves, instead of coming to them for help. Let’s look at that example of my wedding planner client again. You see, most of the people who are going to purchase a $9.97 book on wedding
LONDON RUNWAY planning are really intending to do it all themselves anyway. Most of those people who do it all themselves aren’t going to be your ideal customers. They were never yours to lose! But those few who do read the book, reach out, and decide to hire you are doing it because of what the book shows them. Imagine a huge, severalhundred-page book detailing all the little things you need to take care of to plan a wedding. It looks exhausting! After reading all of that, the bride-to-be thinks: I can’t do all of this on my own – I need an expert! And which expert do they turn to?
They want to find something to distinguish you from others: do you have better testimonials? Do you offer extra services? And what do they find? You know so much about wedding planning, you actually wrote a book about it. And – this is where a bit of great marketing comes in once a high-quality book is ready to go – it’s even a bestseller. Now, the author of a bestselling book about wedding planning sure sounds like a fantastic person to hire to plan your wedding, don’t they?
That’s right – the friendly, open, and easy-to-understand wedding planner they’ve been reading so much about.
If you’re a business owner, I hope this article has given you a lot to think about. Now I’m going to put my own advice into practice and demonstrate exactly how this works.
Now, there’s also another way in which this book works, and surprisingly, it’s when you target people who will never read the book at all. Those customers are people who come to your website comparing you against several other service providers in your niche.
If you enjoyed this article, that means you like my writing. If you’re convinced from this that I know a lot about writing books and how to use them to leverage your business, then you know I’m the right person to hire. Using a ghostwriter, you may be surprised at how little time you have to invest (just
one hour-long meeting a month, on average, for six to seven months) and how easily your book comes together. I can even make it sound like you wrote it yourself. So, go on. Get in touch. You can find all of my details at rhiannondaverc.co.uk/ghostwriting, and contact me any time at rhiannon@rhiannondaverc.co.uk. Your book is waiting for you!
Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
What's your ideal date?
"Anything fun! Mini golf or bowling!"
Amber J, publishing assistant
&
"I'm happily taken now, but one of my first dates with my husband was going to see a cheap Dave Grohl tribute act in a tiny local bar so we could drink away the nerves - it seemed to do the job pretty well! As for now... just getting an evening off from our toddler with maybe some pizza would be the dream haha!" Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor
"I’D SAY LIKE A CUTE PICNIC WITH LOTS OF FOOD AND PROSECCO"
“BAR FOR DRINKS AND THEN A PIZZA DATE”
Rosie Smith, shop assistant
"I’d say my ideal first date is going for some drinks and then doing something lighthearted like a going to a comedy club" Izzy, account manager
Taylor Whitlock, student
“I love intimate dates, candlelit dinner and some wine haha.” Hannah Ray, actor
"A midnight drive by the ocean with a sky full of stars and a full moon!"
"pottery making is a win" Bobbi, finance consultant
Candice Wu, Editorial Assistant
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
PAGE 113
NEXT: THE PORTRAIT ISSUE THE ROMANCE ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK
BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT CARLOTA BARRERA BY MRITYUNJOY MITRA
