INTERVIEWS WITH BRYONY + REBEKAH ROY . CHRISTMAS FILM FASHION . WINTER SKIN CARE . GIFT GUIDE
PAKISTAN FASHION WEEK LONDON . POWER OF IDENTITY . CANARY WHARF SHOWS . WINTER WONDERLAND
ISSUE 31 20TH DECEMBER 2018
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark and Fil Mazzarino - shoots@londonrunway.co.uk Features Editor: Rachel Parker - features@londonrunway.co.uk Arts Editor: Naomi Purvis - arts@londonrunway.co.uk News Editor: Charlie Whitehand - news@londonrunway.co.uk Music Editor: Neil Dowd - musiceditor@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Writer - Joanna Cunningham Graphic Design: Alex Panek, Melina Hadjiargyrou, Valeria Marzano design@londonrunway.co.uk Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Andrea MacLeod of A+ Photography, Conan Arora, Martin David Edwards Special thanks to Susan Yu, Robin Dobler, Funmilayo Reasha, Rebekah Roy, Josie Griffiths at Felicities, Bryony
Get more content and access to special offers and behind-the-scenes at patreon.com/londonrunway Š 2018, London Runway Ltd  and contributors Printed by Pixart Printing and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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EDITOR'S LETTER This issue we are looking forward to the end of the year, and the endless succession of feasts set to await us over the Christmas period. No matter your religious denomination, we hope you enjoy the holiday – or at least the chance to take some time off and relax. We enjoyed a successful launch party for Issue 30 two weeks ago, as well as a festive celebration, and you can see the images from that event here. We’re happy to have seen some old friends and met some new ones, and we’re filled with excitement for the year ahead. The wheels are always in motion, and even while we might be watching classic films in front of the tree, we’re already preparing for some very exciting projects and collaborations in 2019! This is a time to be spent with the people you care about. When you unwrap your presents, it’s important to remember that it’s people, not things, that really make the world worth living in. Christmas isn’t about whether you can afford to buy the latest designer handbags
and jewellery for your loved ones, but rather about showing them you care.
seen at Winter Wonderland, and a photoshoot and interview with rising star Bryony.
With that in mind, it’s also important to think about those who have less this Christmas. With so many people left alone, unable to afford presents and a big meal, or even without a roof over their heads, be grateful for the things you have. If you find yourself with unwanted presents this year, or with new gifts that mean your old items are obsolete, consider donating them to a charity or a food bank in your local area. If you’re interested in doing a bit more, there are plenty of initiatives out there set up to allow lonely people to find someone to spend time with over the festive season, so consider donating your time if you can.
We’ll see you next when our Christmas break comes to an end, with a brand-new release schedule starting on January 12th. We’re switching to publishing once every three weeks as we concentrate on bringing you the highest possible quality in both show coverage and written content, along with launching some new features and looks that we know you’ll love. For now, enjoy – and we wish you a Happy New Year!
In this issue, we’re filling you with plenty of good cheer to spread around. We’ve got coverage of some fantastic shows and parties over the last couple of weeks, gift ideas, advice on how to stay cosy yet stylish on Christmas day, the trends
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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CONTENTS Photography Hackney Wick Fashion Week - 7 Issue 30 Launch Party - 26
Slick Knits (editorial) - 30 Power of Identity II - 38 New Faces - 47 Pakistan Fashion Week London: Saturday Show 1 - 58 Style (Conscious) Guide - 77
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Canary Wharf - 78 Pakistan Fashion Week London Finale - 85
Features Fashion News - 4 Interview: Rebekah Roy - 53 Winter Skin Saviours - 75 Neighbourhood Voices: Winter Wonderland - 99 Interview: Byrony (cover feature) -104 Your Style Horoscope - 115
Love Actually - 119 The Big Question - 122
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LONDON RUNWAY
THE BRITISH FASHION AWARDS 2018
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NEWS BY CHARLIE WHITEHAND
There were a handful of other international winners, including Virgil Abloh for Off-White winning the Urban Luxe Award, and Demma Gvasalia for Balenciaga was
presented with Accessories Designer of the Year. Not to forget the Special Recognition Award for Innovation going to Parley for the Oceans. However, there was still a lot of British success with Craig Green being awarded the British Designer of the Year Menswear honour, and Kim Jones was awarded with the inaugural Trailbrazer accolade for “his reputation for challenging the norms whilst respecting heritage, history, creativity and innovation”. Richard Quinn added British Emerging Talent Womenswear to his honours and British Emerging Talent Menswear was awarded to Samuel Ross for A-Cold-Wall. Special recognition was afforded to Dame Vivienne Westwood. The iconic British Designer was presented with the Swarovski Award for Positive Change for her promotion of humanitarian and environmental issues, through her eponymous label and her campaigning for charities such as Cool Earth, Amnesty International, War Child, Friends of the Earth and the Environmental Justice Foundation. The penultimate award, the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, was presented to photography duo Mert and Marcus. The final award for Model of the Year was given to Kaia Gerber.
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The British Fashion Council named their 2018 award winners, shining a light on British talent globally. The annual Fashion Awards is the main fundraiser for the British Fashion Council. They are a nonprofit organisation that focuses on promoting excellence in British fashion as well as supporting the creative talent of the future. The evening celebrated 15 awards, 10 of which were voted for by the global panel. The Duchess of Sussex was the surprise guest, presenting the coveted British Womenswear Designer of the Year award to the designer of her wedding dress, Clare Waight Keller of Givenchy. While the night was mainly to showcase British talent, there were a lot of Italian labels on the winners list. The Italian fashion house, Gucci, took home two awards, achieving Brand of the Year as well as the Business Leader Award for CEO Marco Bizzarri. Additionally, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino was named Designer of the Year, while Miuccia Prada was presented with the Outstanding Achievement Award.
LONDON RUNWAY
FASHION
YOOX NET-A-PORTER INTRODUCES AI
BY CHARLIE WHITEHAND
NEWS
Yoox Net-A-Porter continues to add new tech to its web store. They have unveiled “a unique styling suite to deliver [an] innovative shopping experience to customers worldwide”. YooxMirror is a virtual styling suite available through its iOS app. It’s powered by artificial intelligence and was developed in-house by the Yoox R&D team. It aims to “entertain customers while they express their personality, exploring the very best of the Yoox fashion offering in a new, interactive and engaging way.” Customers can use the app to upload their own picture or select from a number of avatars that most closely match their own look. This will help them to visualise how items will look on them. They will also be able to share their looks and gain immediate feedback from friends before they purchase as well as saving their favourite items into a wishlist, the Yoox DreamBox, to
via Yoox Net-A-Porter
look back on later. The company stated that it “allows customers to embrace their inner stylist,” as they use the app to “mix and match products and styles.” It works using algorithms that detect visual elements such as colour, pattern, and shape within a product image. Then, “Deep Learning Networks extract product attributes to select alternative items, which work best with each other”, and VR technology will fit the selected items on a 3D model, “bringing them to life against evocative immersive backdrops.” The human element is added when the company combines the AI “with the unrivalled knowledge and expertise of the Yoox merchandising team”. The e-tailer said that the development “represents the next stage in [its] exploration of Man & Machine synergies”.
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The new feature won’t cover the site’s entire inventory, but plans to showcase 250 products per week and 9 unique fashion themes. The avatar, known as Daisy, will guide users around the interface and, “in a fashion first for a brand”, will “take over the Yoox Instagram account.” Yoox president Paolo Mascio said: "Behind what might look like a playful app feature lies a complex technology: building upon the work of the Yoox merchandising team, the introduction represents an important move for us, offering our customers something personalised and memorable which is also a brand new way to explore the very best of Yoox. We are so excited by the potential of this initiative that we will not limit our avatar Daisy to the styling suite – taking over our IG she is going to become the personification of Yoox, allowing us an even more direct contact with our followers and customers.”
LONDON RUNWAY
BRANDS UNITE TO FIGHT GLOBAL WARMING
A major objective is to create “a new normal” for plastic packaging and to ensure that 100% of plastic packaging can be safely recycled by 2025.
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NEWS Via Pixabay
BY CHARLIE WHITEHAND
The news of the charter was first brought to light in November by luxury designer Stella McCartney. At the time she said that "everything is at stake. It's really about bringing everyone together as an industry,
and instead of having a few people talk about it, it's having everyone talk about it and the leaders ... actually taking responsibility, putting our money where our mouth is and making an amazing change together." Karl-Johan Persson, CEO of the H&M group said, "this charter is about getting the fashion industry united in important climate work. Our industry has a global reach and only together can we create the change that is urgently needed." The brand also announced last month that they have appointed Christopher Wylie as a consulting director of research. The high street retailer is attempting to use AI and data to optimise its supply chains. One of their main aims is to reduce the textile waste produced by overordering. Alongside this, the brands have also signed the New Plastics Economy Global Commitment. This aims to “eradicate plastic waste and pollution at the source”. This was lead by UN Environment and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. It comprises of 3 targets for brands, governments and non-profit organisations, including eliminating single use plastics, initiating recycle and reuse schemes and innovating new methods to reduce plastic waste. Progress in each of these areas must be published annually and targets will be reviewed every 18 months.
FASHION
Burberry, H&M, Stella McCartney and Hugo Boss join forces to help combat climate change. The fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters in the world, emitting more greenhouse gas than all international flights and maritime shipping journeys combined. It has been estimated that a garbage truck's worth of clothing is either burned or sent to a landfill every second. The good news is an initiative has been put in place to ensure brands are working to change this. The above are just a few of the brands to have signed the UN Climate Change Initiative. In total, 43 fashion businesses have signed the newly-unveiled ‘Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action'. Additional signatures include the brands adidas, Gap Inc., Kering, Levi Strauss & Co., Puma SE, PVH Corp. and Target, as well as organisations such as the China National Textile and Apparel Council and the Outdoor Industry Association and Textile Exchange. The charter aims to address the role of the fashion industry "on both sides of the climate equation". It will focus closely on the ways in which the sector can reduce its greenhouse gas emissions as well as focusing on sustainable development. This will be done via 16 different commitments and the goal is for the industry to achieve net zero emissions by the year 2050.
PLASTIC BAG HAUTE COUTURE MEETS BARE BOTTOMS
Photography by Martin David Edwards
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LONDON RUNWAY
HACKNEY WICK FASHION WEEK Hackney showed its bottom-bearing colours as the powerhouse of cutting-edge style in a two day fashion show over 14 and 15 December. Held in the historic Old Baths, Hackney Wick Fashion Week showcased ten new and emerging Hackney-based designers. Robert George Sanders showcased his collection made using recycled fabrics and plastics. Izzy Person displayed her denim-based tops and trousers. Louise Halswell presenter her urban Fuud London streetwear range with signs borrowed from London Zoo. Jack & Lu displayed intricate pattern cutting and designs in their collection, while Hector Maclean continued the theme of classically inspired tailoring fused with a modern Hackney twist. Just when the audience thought it was safe to gulp their interval drinks, 2Loud! burst onto the catwalk with playful party costumes. Sarah Regensburger displayed an embroiderer’s mastery with lacework for her Savage collection. Zhi Holloway showcased the Not Very Well brand’s inventive streetwear collection, again embracing sustainability in the choice of fabrics. Sarah Jackson burst a volley of rainbows onto the catwalk with her Horse of a Different Colour collection. Vytoldas Miliauskas returned to the mixture of classical elegance and playful innovation that was the hallmark of the show. Collections are shown in the order described. Photography by Martin David Edwards
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ISSUE 30 LAUNCH PARTY We promised that we would bring you full coverage of our Issue 30 Launch Party event, and here it is! It was a fantastic night to spend time with our friends and readers in Notting Hill. We unveiled our brand new cover look to great success, and many of the issue’s contributors were also there in person to see their work in print. If you didn’t make it on the night, never fear – we’ve got plenty of shots here to give you a feel for how the night unfolded. And if you’re following us on Instagram, you would have seen a whole night of highlights on our stories – make sure to check us out @londonrunwaymag to avoid missing anything in future! We have to say a big thank you again to Lone Design Club, our hosts for the evening, who provided a fantastic space to mingle in as well as lots of exciting brands to browse. The clothes and accessories were a big talking point, and it was particularly exciting to see the scarves from our cover editorial hanging up on Danny Lee Design’s rail!
Photography by Ian Clark and Fil Mazzarino
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SLICK KNITS Photography - Andrea MacLeod Model: Conan Arora Location (indoor): Hair for Men Cookham
Conan wears: Black Jacket- Zara
Conan wears: Blue cardigan, Shirt, and Jeans - all Primark; Tie - Next
Conan wears: Blue cardigan and blue knit top (underneath) both Primark; Jeans - River Island
Conan wears: Jeans - Primark; Jumper - H&M
Conan wears: Blue cardigan, Shirt, and Jeans - all Primark; Tie - Next
Above: Conan wears: Jeans - Primark; Jumper - H&M Right: Conan wears: Blue cardigan, Shirt, and Jeans - all Primark; Tie - Next
Conan wears: Blue cardigan, Shirt, and Jeans - all Primark; Tie - Next
LONDON RUNWAY
POWER OF IDENTITY II
The Power of Identity II show saw Czech designers coming together to share their collections at Japan House, as part of an ongoing partnership that has involved the Academy of Art, Architecture and Design in Prague and Bunka Fashion Graduate University. Head of studio Libena Rochova led her students to create a collection around the theme of national identity. The designers were: Eduard Ganoczy - NoIdentityGirl Sara Berankova - Vitezslava Michaela Kapkova - Artefacts Karolina Karpiskova - WHOWEARE Ales Hnatek - Marauorum Zoltan Toth - Immunity Tereza Kanyzova - How to fix a broken vase Antonina Zablotska - SlavEpic Natalie Nepovimova - Goddess Barbora Prochazkova - Czechitas Agata Seehakova - Dear Girls Natalie Dufkova - Neverending Masopust
Photography by Ian Clark
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NEW FACE Name: Robin Dobbler Age: 22 Location: South East London Agency: Freelance / Frame Perfect How long have you been modelling? About 3 or 4 years. But about 3 years professionally.
Where are you from originally? I was born in Switzerland.
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I wouldn’t say unusual, but I’m a professional dancer. So I like to combine modelling and dance.
What would surprise people to know about you? I was raised in a orphanage. What are your modelling ambitions? I would love to just keep modelling and doing shoots and just see where it takes me.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name: Funmilayo Reasha Age: 29 Location: North London Agency: Frame Perfect How long have you been modelling? Since I was three! My aunt had her own collection and her husband was an artist and I ended up doing a bit of modelling through that. Where are you from originally? Heritage-wise? My mother is Jamaican, and my father is Scottish, Dutch and Ghanaian. What would surprise people to know about you? That I’m not Nigerian, because my name is originally Nigerian.
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? If you’d asked me that when I was at uni I probably would have said doing backflips while intoxicated, but that doesn’t happen anymore! Now when I am in the kitchen, because it’s so compact, when things slip or fall I can be like Angelina Jolie in Mr and Mrs Smith and catch everything.
What are your modelling ambitions? Building a platform and building a brand where I can voice issues like FGM or youth reform or mental health. I would like to advocate through fusing fashion and music, empowering the younger generation.
Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc
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LONDON RUNWAY
NEW FACE Name: Susan Yu Age: 39 Location: Notting Hill Agency: Unsigned
What would surprise people to know about you? The fact that I’m a mother. She’s five!
How long have you been modelling?
What are your modelling ambitions? To be honest I just want to increase my profile, I just want to get out there and let girls know that it doesn’t matter if you’re five foot two or a different race or how old you are, just go out there and be bold and fearless. Don’t worry about what people think, just chase your passion and it will come. Don’t be scared, you’ve only got one life!
Not long at all, probably the last six months. My Instagram got quite popular in the last couple of years, so I decided to take a step further.
Where are you from originally? I was born in London, but my mother and father are from Hong Kong. Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Well, I’m a yoga instructor, so I can do the crow and stand on my hands. That’s a pretty good party trick, but not when you’re too drunk!
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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REBEKAH ROY INTERVIEW
Rebekah Roy is one of London’s leading fashion stylists and creative consultants, working on everything from the London Fashion Week catwalks to glossy editorials and celebrity styling. Rachel Parker sat down with her to discuss conscious fashion, following trends, and the importance of teamwork in creativity. How did you get into styling and was it always something you wanted to do? I think like many stylists it was kind of accidental. I had always really liked fashion and I was really influenced by my mother and my grandmother, they both sewed and knit everything, and my grandmother cut her own patterns. So, I think I was always watching people make things. When I was quite little, I think I started to really understand fashion of a way of communicating in this language, but I didn't really ever understand that it could be a career path. I don't think I knew what I wanted to do, I don't even think I really knew that I wanted to do something creative. When I was very little, I remember I played the violin, I had oil paints, I really liked dance and I really liked theatre. I really liked clothes and communication, but I didn't realise that there was something that brought them all together. That was the thing that fashion really did for me, it took all of the things that I was interested in and it merged them. I was born in England, but I lived in Canada when I was little, and then when I came back to England I did an internship at British Vogue and that kind of just changed my trajectory, and went from there.
"I REALLY LIKED CLOTHES AND COMMUNICATION" What did you do at Vogue? I was working in the fashion cupboard, just interning. I was there during fashion week, so I got to see a lot of
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LONDON RUNWAY shows and things. Did you study fashion? No, because styling courses are only relatively new. Fashion degrees have been around in the UK but not in the rest of the world, which is why so many people come here for school. So, I was actually doing theatre and women's studies, but I was always writing about clothes. My women's studies essays would always be on certain historical figures, but I write about what they were wearing and how that would be influenced politically at the time, because clothing is a reflection of our time. Do you remember the first shoot you worked on? No, the weird part is that I really don't. I think when I started working, I was just so busy all the time. I wish I did, that would be really nice, but oddly no one has ever asked me, and I have no idea. But I tested a lot when I was building my book. I was working with a makeup artist and we were shooting three times a week, so we were really busy and really on it. We were just grafters and we made stuff happen. What's your process like when it comes to putting together a shoot? It starts from who the shoot is for, which magazine it's for. Each magazine has its own aesthetic and its own brief, so it's important to make sure I understand that. If I am working with an editor then it's understanding what the editor is looking for, and then coming up with some concepts and working on mood boards. Then it's finding the right photographer and team that suit that aesthetic. But most of styling is research, so finding the right looks for something and the right designers, from the shoes to all the jewellery and accessories, and then contacting the modelling agencies and finding the models. I produce a lot of the shoots that I work on and put the teams together. The whole vision is so much about the team. If you don't have the right models then maybe the shoot won't have the right synergy, for example. Each person adds another layer to everything and the whole team takes it to the next level. I really like working with people who are quite
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visionary and creative, but also understand what it means to be a team, because you're only as good as the weakest person on your team. You mentioned you spend a lot of time researching, where do you look for inspiration? A lot of my research comes from travelling, even walking around London. It comes from reading, from literature, from movies, from Netflix. I think I pull resources from everywhere. Do you think you have one main influence? The world, because we live within a culture. You can walk through London and kind of ignore it, and I meet people who are bored of it and think, "what's wrong with them?". It's such an interesting place with so much history, and everywhere you go has something different to offer, something unique. In every country you're in, even the sky looks different. I think you can pull influences from so many different places, and you never know what will influence you. You might just see a paper or something flying by in the wind and suddenly it sets of your whole vision for an idea. Could you tell us more about the different aspects of your career? I do anything that's to do with fashion, because I think whether you're doing editorials or celebrity styling or even personal styling, they all have the common thread of fashion and imagery and trends.
"A LOT OF MY RESEARCH COMES FROM TRAVELLING, EVEN WALKING AROUND LONDON"
LONDON RUNWAY What's the best part of what you do? The best part is that I get to meet a lot of different people, and one of the best parts of my job is also the final product, so when everything does come together. It's not even seeing the shoot, it's often the shoot day. I've said before that one of my favourite moments when you're doing a catwalk show is the anticipation just before the first model walks out. Everyone's in the line-up and you're waiting for the audience, and that moment when the first model walks out is so exciting. Is there anyone you would really love to work with? I've always loved the fashion photographer Tim Walker. I think loads of people do. The effort that he puts in to create the shoots that he does, you look at them and you think that they just happen, but you don't think that someone like that is still really making stuff happen. It doesn't just happen because he's Tim Walker, it happens because he makes it happen. I love work that plays between daydreams and different realities. I love playing in that little space, where it's not so surreal but it's just on that borderline where everything has a slight haze to it.
Fashion, and that's been really interesting because when we started the project last year, I found it really hard to find vegan designers but right now, we're in a moment where they're starting to pop up. People are talking about it and discussing what is veganism and what is sustainability and where do those two actually meet, because they don't always meet but they are starting to. So that's what I'm really interested in. Could you tell us a bit about your personal style? I find self-analysis very difficult! I feel really eclectic. I like so many things and a lot of my things come from my travels. I think it's slightly quirky but that's a word I've never quite embraced – it always sounds a bit negative. But I like colour and I love texture, and those things also sort of dip over into my styling.
What do you think are the biggest issues facing the fashion industry? Overconsumption. Sustainability. I think maybe those two. Is that something you've tried to address in terms of what you're doing? I think I address some of it in how I live personally. I love fashion and I have a lot of clothes, and I don't believe when people say, "if you haven't worn something for a year you should get rid of it", because every now and then I'll come back to something I wore four years ago and find I still love it. Whether I have bought something from the highstreet or a designer or a jeweller, I know I'll have it for a long time, but I do think we have to rethink how we buy. So now I'm trying not to buy as frequently, and to be very considerate about it. I also curated a vegan fashion show last summer, and I'm working on one again next year. It's called Bare
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I think sometimes I almost live vicariously through the things I've styled, because I never have the desire to wear them, but having them in a shoot makes me really happy. I guess you can go a little more crazy and push things a bit more with a shoot. Depending on the editorial you're doing it can be very magical, and sometimes it can be very commercial, depending on who it's for or the way it's shot. What do you think draws you to a piece? I think anything shiny or tulle or textured or velvet – anything that's sort of fun and lush and happy – those make me a little bit happy. Are there any trends that you
LONDON RUNWAY hate?
What advice would you give to someone who wanted to get into styling?
No, I'm far too lazy to hate anything. Sometimes when I'm on the tube I will see a group of girls going out and they're super dressed up, they've got every trend on, but I don't care. I'm just happy that they look happy. I think that's a phase that many people go through, too many things on all at once, and I think it’s just kind of fun. Do you look at trends a lot? I think of trends all the time. A trend starts years before we see it. Things often start as a microtrend and because of social media they can happen really quickly, but a trend can also happen because a building has been built in a certain way, and that's what I mean by how culture is always influencing what we're wearing. Trends can come from so many places. A trend can come because a designer has had a sudden experience, and we start to see it in their work and suddenly it's influencing so many people. I remember there was one year at Graduate Fashion Week that you could tell that Game of Thrones had influenced so many of the students, and now we find that television influences people a lot. But I'm definitely aware of what the trends are – I don't think you can work in fashion and be oblivious to them. When I style a shoot or when I work with a celebrity, I have to take those things into consideration and just be aware.
Go for it. But I kind of think that lots of people are lazy. I meet lots of people who want to be stylists and I ask if they are testing and they're like, "no".
It must be an interesting way of looking at it, to look at where a trend has come from and the history behind it. Yeah, because then you can understand where it's going and if it will last. Have you ever had any major disasters on a shoot? Not particularly. There was one shoot years ago when we had all these wonderful, really luxurious dresses from Alexander McQueen. We really had a model in mind for the shoot, but I think we were working on a weekend and the model couldn't make it. We were all really devastated, but then this American girl showed up and she didn't really fit the brief at all, but she took the shoot to a whole other level. She was so amazing and incredible, we couldn't have wished for something better. I think that's something that can happen a lot in fashion, I think if you're rigid it doesn't really work. Sometimes you have to go with the flow. I believe creators should do as much planning as they can, you plan for the shoot and you try to make everything happen, but if stuff changes on the day you just go with it, because if you've got a great team then you are just going to really elevate things to another level.
If you wanted to be a painter, you're not going to wait for someone to commission you, you're just going to paint. The same for a musician, they're not waiting just to join a band, they're playing at home all the time and honing their craft. I think that's a thing a lot of people forget, that you can go into ecommerce as a student stylist and there is a lot of work there, and it can help to get you into a creative field, but if you want to be creative then you just do the work, all the time. You can't hold yourself back by not doing something, but I think it's amazing how many people do that, but then maybe it's not the industry for them. There's lots of people out there who want to work with you, so you've just got to make it happen. When you look around it's amazing how many people will want to work with you who are also just starting out and doing their own thing. Do you enjoy that emerging level of creativity? Yes, years back there was this photographer who emailed me. He was a student doing his BA and he put together such a nice mood board of what he was doing. He was like, "I have no money, I have no experience, but I can make a nice lunch and I work really hard", so I asked one of my friends who was a makeup artist if we could do a test shoot for him. We did, and now years later he is a really good photographer. I think people do take chances on people, but people don't make themselves vulnerable enough to take a chance on themselves.
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LONDON RUNWAY What will you be working on next? We are already starting to work on the vegan fashion show, even though that's not until August. I have got some shows in February that I am beginning to work on, and there are a couple of celebrities I work with so I'm busy doing that. I have an editorial next week, and I've been doing a lot of judging at Graduate Fashion Week and now I'm mentoring someone. Do you have any longer-term plans for things you would like to work on? I'm just trying to figure those out, actually. I feel like I am just at that sort of crossroads where I'm
thinking what else would I like to do, or how would I like to work. I think that's actually where I am right now, because I do think it's important to always keep growing and challenging yourself as an artist. Are you the kind of person who sets goals for yourself? No, I'm quite haphazard in a way. I really just like to go with the flow. I travel really easily, and in my job I have been able to travel a lot, from Lagos to Saudi, doing different jobs all over the world. But I've never thought, "I really need to focus and do this", and now I'm thinking that maybe I should try that, really focus on what I want next and how I can do that!
So in terms of what has happened in your career so far, was there any overarching plan? No, I think it has happened just because I am really interested in things. I like doing different things and I like talking and writing about fashion. I love what fashion can do for people, even someone who doesn't work in fashion but they just like fashion. I like that it can make someone's life easier or better. Why do you think you have had so much success? I guess I don't feel like I have had so much success. But I do think that I work really hard, I am definitely a grafter. I'm nice, which sounds weird to say out loud! There's a saying that 'luck favours the prepared', and so I feel that when you do work really hard you are able to take the opportunities that come your way.
Find out more about Rebekah on her website at rebekahroy.co.uk, and follow her on Instagram at @rebekahroy_ See more of Rachel's work at @rachelfrances_ All images via Rebekah Roy
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PAKISTAN FASHION WEEK LONDON: SHOW 2 Photography by Fil Mazzarino
If you checked out the first part of Pakistan Fashion Week London in Issue 30, you'll know to expect some very exciting designs representing a mix of modern and traditional styles. More than anything, these designers have a flair for colour and embellishment. For the second show of the event, the following designers exhibited their collections: Anita Sudera Ayesha Aejaz Libas Parisa Saneeta Shafiq Satar Shirin Hassan Wajhat & Shehroze Yatshi
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WINTER SKIN SAVIOURS If your face is suffering from an onslaught of winter weather and Christmas parties, never fear. Rachel Parker searches for skincare and beauty products to soothe and illuminate dry, sore skin. It’s safe to say that December is not the most wonderful time of the year when it comes to our complexions. There’s the harsh wind biting at your face every time you pop outdoors, the blasting central heating, the mulled wine and endless cheese boards – all a perfect recipe to play havoc with your skin and leave it feeling dull, dry and unloved. Luckily, you don’t have to migrate to warmer climes or abstain from the season of relentless eating in order to regenerate your skin. A few simple beauty tricks can work a Christmas miracle to transform lacklustre complexions into something velvety and glowing.
Cleanse With the temperature dropping every day, the last thing you want to do to your skin is strip it dry with foaming or soapy cleansers. A creamy formula is ideal to soothe a dry complexion and keep your face feeling soft and smooth. This Liz Earle cleanser is famed for its ability to remove makeup while leaving your skin radiant, with its blend of purifying eucalyptus oil, refreshing rosemary, soothing chamomile and rich cocoa butter.
Via Liz Earle
Tone It’s critical to get rid of that layer of dry, flaky skin cells that can make your face resemble Frosty the Snowman, so an exfoliating toner is your best friend. Skincare essentials like AHAs and BHAs (mild acid exfoliants) are perfect for removing dead skin cells, revealing the babysoft springtime skin underneath. Try the Nip+Fab Glycolic Fix Daily Cleansing Pads, which contain glycolic acid to retexture and resurface the complexion.
Treat If your skin is feeling parched from weeks of indulgence, the first thing to do is give it a drink. Down a big glass of water and throw on a moisturising face mask to nourish skin and restore elasticity. This Origins Drink Up 10 Minute Mask is great to boost hydration. With soothing, softening ingredients including apricot and algae, this is an ideal formula to keep your skin supple and luminous.
Via Origins
Via Nip+Fab
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Hydrate If your skin is looking as bleak as the midwinter sky, it may be lacking hydration. The key to treating this is hyaluronic acid, a molecule which can attract up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Apply this Hyaluronic Acid serum by The Ordinary before moisturiser to draw moisture into the skin, leaving it plump and hydrated.
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Don t forget your lips
Via The Ordinary
If you are anything like me, just a five-minute stroll to the shop in the biting cold is enough to leave your lips cracked, flaky and sore. A lip scrub and balm like this Burt’s Bees combination is perfect to polish away dry skin, add hydration and leave lips soft and smooth. The honey tastes pretty good, too.
Moisturise The key step for any dry complexion is a good moisturiser, and at this time of the year it’s important to choose one packed with rich, hydrating ingredients. Think of this as the skincare equivalent of a cashmere throw on a frosty evening, or the extra-thick double cream you just heaped onto that mince pie. The season of indulgence should extend to your face, too. This rich Vichy cream is packed with thermal spring water, so it adds a luxurious layer of moisture without any unwanted greasiness.
Via Vichy
Illuminate Now you’ve got a soft, smooth and moist face to work with, it’s time to add some much-needed brightness. An illuminating concealer like the YSL Touche Eclat will instantly eliminate any shadows or dull patches left from those festive nights out, while adding radiance and a subtle shimmering glow.
Via Burt's Bees
You can find Rachel on social media with @rachelfrances_
Via Yves Saint Laurent
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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rachel Parker
Humphries and Begg at Lone Design Club Printed Cotton Playsuit in Tile and Smile Print £65
Eggandspoonstudio on Etsy Red Nosed Reindeer Christmas Brooch Badge Pin £7.50
Brora Cashmere Fair Isle Cardigan £359
COMFY CHRISTMAS WITH EXTRA ROOM FOR SECOND HELPINGS PAGE 77
Celtic and Co Slippers £56
CANARY WHARF WINTER FASHION WEEKEND Canary Wharf Fashion Weekend showcased the latest trends from stores around the shopping centre. The all-dancing show revealed Christmas party essentials and all the trimmings needed for a season of truly festive fashion. Featuring clothing from: Â Oasis Charles T LK Bennett Gap Waitrose Karen Millen and Moss Topshop Hobbs Asics Sandro Gant Reiss
Photography by Martin David Edwards Models: Skin London
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PAKISTAN FASHION WEEK LONDON: FINALE The finale of the three shows at Pakistan Fashion Week London ended the series in dramatic style. In order, the designers shown here are: Attire Bushra Wahid Ayesha Ibrahim Dar-E-Aab Insam RDC Sanam Boutique Zarsah
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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NEIGHBORHOOD VOICES: WINTER WONDERLAND Candice explores Winter Wonderland to hear the Christmas voices of London. Whether you’re the Christmas Grinch at the beginning or the end of the movie, Winter Wonderland will get you in the holiday spirits. Held annually in Hyde Park, it’s filled with ornamented Christmas trees, delicious bratwurst and mulled wine, a quaint Bavarian village, and thrilling rides and ice skating.
It's free admission, so if you’re not one for the roller coasters or carnival games, you can just bask in the oozing holiday coziness! You’ll also meet all walks of life there as the holidays aren’t limited to specific people. Here are a few voices I heard through the Christmas jingles.
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GEORGE LOUIS BACHILLER (SPORTS THERAPY STUDENT, SALISBURY/PHILIPPINES) What and who are your fashion inspirations? My fashion is inspired by many different things, such as music and the skate culture. I listen to all kinds of music genres, but I think the main inspiration is Hip Hop and RnB. Certain artists like Tyler the Creator and ASAP Rocky has a big influence on how I dress. Social media, mainly Instagram, is certainly a big influence too. If I see something that I like, I will probably try to imitate that style and make it my own What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself? The first thing I usually do before I dress is to check the weather. If it’s sunny or bright, I tend to wear brighter clothes, and when it’s more cloudy, I wear clothes that are darker. Is this your first visit to Winter Wonderland? Why did you decide to come? This was my first time going to Winter Wonderland, and I went because my friends invited me to go with them.
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SARA HAMOUDA (PHYSIOTHERAPY STUDENT, TANTA, EGYPT) What and who are your fashion inspirations? I’m quite a casual person. I like to be comfortable in what I’m wearing, so a lot of my fashion inspiration comes from the off-duty model’s street style, like Kendall Jenner. Being able to rock a t-shirt and jeans and still look put together. What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself? I came from a very small town, so I think that affected the way I dress in a way that I tend to stay away from really bright colours. They just weren’t my cup of tea, but when I moved to London, I saw how everyone was experimenting with various colours and that gave me the idea to let loose a little bit and explore myself. Is this your first visit to Winter Wonderland? Why did you decide to come? I went to Winter Wonderland last year for the first time, and I think it’s beautiful. Coming back this year, it definitely did not disappoint. The joy of Christmas and the holidays is something that I don’t really experience, but it’s always very beautiful to be a part of it.
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MUHAMED BADJIE (DRAMA STUDENT, PHILADELPHIA, PENNSLYVANIA)
What and who are your fashion inspirations? I usually just go by what I think is cool, but I love a lot of what hiphop dancers on Instagram wear and sometimes look for stuff like that. What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself? It's honestly what I'm feeling. For example, if I'm happy, I’ll wear light clothing with bright colors. If I'm sad, I'll venture towards darker and heavier stuff. The weather is also a big factor. Is this your first visit to Winter Wonderland? Why did you decide to come? It was my first time! I went home last year, so I had to see it at least once cause you never know when you're going to die.
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MARK AARON RULE (FILM STUDENT, PENRYN) What and who are your fashion inspirations? If I like the look of it, I’ll wear it. What goes into your decision process when dressing and presenting yourself? Do I look good in it? Is this your first visit to Winter Wonderland? Why did you decide to come? Nope, and ice skating!
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.
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Bryony wears: Trousers - Pretty Little Thing; Lace Bodysuit - Missy Empire; Black Belt - River Island Photography: Rhiannon D'Averc Assistance: Fil Mazzarino Hair and Makeup: Grace Shaw
Bryony INTERVIEW Ambient, pop-inspired instrumentals, 80s synthesisers and a mellifluously soothing vocal are just a few of the musical components that make her sound. Neil Dowd met with Bryony to discuss the ideas behind her new musical project, her aesthetic imagery and what we can expect from her next.
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Bryony wears: White Crop Top and Blue Cigarette Trousers - both Pretty Little Thing
Bryony wears: Sparkly Mesh Top I Saw It First
LONDON RUNWAY For the benefit of our readers who haven’t heard of you, talk to us about Bryony - how did you bring this project to life and how would you describe your sound to those who haven’t heard it? While I was at uni, I met a producer and we worked together really well. I knew I wanted to go for a more pop-driven sound so we started writing together and worked closely together to create the sound I have now. I’d say it’s like feminist, stadium indie-pop. Was your 80s influence intentional? It started off as intentional but then it became less intentional as we were writing until it just became a part of the sound that was there. We knew what kind of artists we were inspired to be like and the goals behind it, which influenced some of the 80s vibes. Tell us about the background of your stage name - where does it originate from and why did you choose to use a stage name as opposed to your birth name? So my middle name is Bryony. I always saw Bryony as a different persona to my normal self. Whenever I used the name ‘Bryony’ I just thought it sounded more like a pop artist’s name and gave me a air of confidence. I thought if I could put that persona into my music then I’d have something really cool to work with. What is your background in music? How have you developed as an artist/songwriter over the years prior to Bryony? When I first started songwriting, I started as a singer-songwriter. I would do acoustic guitar driven music, think female Ed Sheeran (laughs). I started to get bored of writing and performing in this style once I started at uni. I didn’t feel like I was making music that I was into anymore. So I started going into more of a pop sound.It took me a while to find, but once I kind of settled into my sound,it felt a lot more natural and comfortable for me.
How much of your current sound is influenced by your previous musical works and background?
It started off with quite a lot. The process of how I write hasn’t changed that drastically. I still like to start with just me and the piano. But sometimes my producer will send me an instrumental and I’ll write over the top of it, which is so new for me. I hadn’t done that until I started writing pop. I guess it’s taking the parts of my old process that I liked and applying it to my new sound.
Bryony is a fairly D.I.Y project. Could you tell us a little bit more on how you make things work behind the scenes in terms of writing, recording and production? I literally write with the same writer/producer every time. We just work so well together. Shout out to Joe Cooper (laughs). He just seems to understand the sound that I want to have all the time.
Do you have a preference between writing top lines over pre-made instrumentals or the basics of just you and the piano? It depends on the kind of song. If it’s slow, I tend to prefer doing it myself as the slower songs tend to be the more personal ones.
I’m very visual and not very good with musical terms, but he can always change my language into something that makes sense to him.
In terms of this project, what artists inspire you? Are there any themes or ideas that are prominent across all of your tracks and if so, what are they and why do they hold importance for you? Definitely Sigrid and Maggie Rogers. Chelsea Cutler and Dua Lipa are also massive inspirations for me. The weirdest inspiration that I have that you probably wouldn’t have guessed is Phil Collins. Me and Joe (my producer) used to just sit there and listen to Phil Collins like ‘something like that part would be cool to use’. We were actually thinking about covering one of his tracks. What track would you cover?
Your debut single ‘Relief’ is currently available on all major streaming platforms. Whilst watching the music video for this track via your YouTube channel and browsing through your social media pages, I noticed that the use of the colour pink was very prominent both in the video and across your promotion of the track - was this a conscious decision that you made? If so, why? I always wanted each of my singles to have their own colour. In my head, the colour would link to how the song sounded. So when I first heard ‘Relief’, I automatically just thought ‘this is pink’. I’m not sure why. Also, because a lot of my lyrics and values revolve around female empowerment, I guess the colour pink for the first single always made sense. We’re going to try and follow that on with each release.
‘Somewhere on the Way to Heaven’.
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Bryony wears: Trousers - Pretty Little Thing; Lace Bodysuit - Missy Empire; Black Belt - River Island
Bryony wears: White Crop Top and Blue Cigarette Trousers both Pretty Little Thing
Bryony wears: Sparkly Mesh Top, Trousers, and Belt - all I Saw It First
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"It s like an empowering song that comes from a
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bad place. " This is yet to be publicly announced, but ‘Bad Move’ is the title for your upcoming second single. Talk us through the process behind that track coming to life are there any themes or ideas that you wanted to highlight lyrically through this track? How did the process behind this track differ from the first one and what can audiences expect from it? ‘Bad Move’ is probably my favourite out of all of my songs, just because I hadn’t written just on my own for such a long time, so when I did for ‘Bad Move’ I was at my piano, like how I used to write. I sent the voice memos from my phone across to Joe and he came back with the perfect instrumental for the song.
It was such an easy song for us to put together. Everything just gelled and worked. I wrote it at the back of a coach, by myself (laughs).This track is coming from the perspective of realising that someone is treating you badly, whether it’s in a relationship or otherwise and having the self love to remove yourself from that situation and get the upper hand again. Do you intend to continue using colour for ‘Bad Move’ like you have done for ‘Relief’? If so, talk us through how the themes and ideas expressed in the track link to the colour that you have chosen to use. The colour for bad move is blue. I want to do it for my first set of singles, until I get to the point of releasing an EP. When it comes to the EP, I’ll want to come up with a new theme. I guess the reason for bad move being blue is that it started off as a sad song, but once I started messing around with it a bit more, it became more positive and happy. It’s like an empowering song that comes from a bad place.
The other colours we have for other songs are purple and red. It all kind of follows the lyrical themes, especially the purple one. The purple song, what do the lyrics touch upon? A lot of the lyrics in this song centre around time and night. So the purple kind of acts as a visual representation of the night sky. The main lyrics aren’t actually about time, but that particular lyric is the main one that stood out to anyone we’ve showed the track to. You’ve previously stated that you are inspired by artists such as Sigrid, Dua Lipa and Maggie Rogers. To what extent do these inspirations also influence your aesthetic in terms of your fashion? Sigrid would probably be the biggest inspiration on my aesthetic. Her clothing choices are always so colourful, which is definitely something I’ve tried to capture. Her clothing choices are a little bit more ‘casual’ than mine but I always thought her colours worked really well. Chelsea Cutler and Maggie Rogers would be more musical inspirations as opposed to fashion. You recently played your first ever headline show at The Workshop. How do you feel the show went? Were there any distinctive differences between headlining and supporting from this show? It was really fun, I loved it. The venue was quite small, so it was really intimate. It felt like there was a lot of interaction with the audience, which is always good. I’ve always been the opener, so it was cool to come down early and check out the opening acts.
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For anyone who hasn’t seen you perform live, what would they be able to expect from your live show? A lot of mum dancing. Yeah I’m embarrassing on stage, everything becomes a lot more loud and live on stage. Because my producer is also my drummer, he’s really good at making everything come to life, which is great for the genre I’m going for. Where would you like to see yourself in five years? Do you have any specific goals or aims you’d like to achieve? In five years time, I’d just love to still be writing. Whether that’s for me or for anyone else really, just because that’s always been my favourite part of it. It’s where all my savagery comes from. That’s the fun part. What are your plans for the future? January 18th, I’ll leave you with that (laughs). We’re going to have a few more singles released in the four months following that also. Finally, Is there anything you’d like to say to our readers or your fanbase? Go and check out the new single!
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I m embarrassing on stage, everything becomes a lot more loud and live Follow Byrony on Instagram at @ bryonymusicuk
Bryony wears: Yellow Jumper - Pretty Little Thing; Black Jeans and Black Boots both Top Shop; Black Belt - River Island
Bryony wears: Yellow Jumper - Pretty Little Thing; Black Jeans - Top Shop; Black Belt - River Island
Bryony wears: Sparkly Mesh Top, Trousers, and Belt - all I Saw It First; White Shoes - Public Desire
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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE It's almost the big day! No presents and don’t have a clue on where to start? Have no fear because Candice is here with a Zodiac last-minute accessories gift guide for you! If you’ve also received a present you’re not as excited about, why not swap it with another sign you know would love it? The possibilities for this guide are endless, so get to reading and shopping!
Aries March 21 - April 20
Get an Aries jewellery that’s unique and personalized to them, such as this Fiery Ring from Julie Nicaisse Jewellery. Some bling on their fingers will light them up for the New Year!
Taurus April 21 - May 21
These Simona copper pumps from Mashizan are what a Taurus will want for the New Year, a classy design with a fun splash of colour that is great for both a conference meeting or a glam New Year’s Eve party.
Gemini May 22- June 21 For this fashionable sign, why not get them a watch, such as this Molvena rose gold with marble detailing watch from Made?
It’s versatile enough to work with any look and functional enough to keep these tardy Geminis relatively more on time.
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Cancer June 22- July 22
This delicate necklace by Lily Flo Jewellery will make this delicate sign hone more into their femininity. It adds the perfect bit of glow to any outfit without being too in your face.
Leo July 23- August 21 Notorious for basking in the spotlight, this sign will draw eyes and attentions with these Glitter Vegan Stilettos from Beyond Skin when they walk into the room.
Virgo August 22- September 23 Aspirational Virgos will most likely be still working through the holidays, so this robe by People Tree will be a nice change for them when coming home from a long day.
The cat detailing will make them feel extra warm and fuzzy when snuggling into bed.
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Libra September 24- October 23 A bright electric blue scarf like this Classic Honey Scarf by Danny Lee Designs is exactly what a Libra needs to help further radiate their uplifting energy.
Scorpio October 24- November 22
Sensual Scorpios will find themselves exuding feminine energy with this lacy, playful lingerie set from Anekdot. The detailed neckline paired with a low V-neckline top will add that nice pop of flair to any of their style choices.
Sagittarius November 23- December 22 These travelers will probably be in full wanderlust mode for the new year, so get your Sagittarius a rucksack or traveler’s backpack. A great, ethically made one would be this Stubben pack from Fjallraven, which acts as a makeshift seat as well.
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Capricorn December 23- January 20 Elements-ready, practical Capricorns will appreciate these thick navy Cabin socks from Komodo. Who doesn’t love getting socks for Christmas?
Aquarius January 21 - February 19
These teal booties from Toms will keep any Aquarius's toes warm and cozy while still stylishly wiggling.
Pisces February 20 - March 20 For the creative and colourful pisces, why not get them something like this tie or Stockholm bag from Kalopsia Collective? Inspire them by giving them a blank canvas to create freely on.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers
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FILM FASHION: LOVE ACTUALLY Joanna Cunningham analyses how the actors in Christmas classic Love Actually were dressed in order to distinguish their characters. Love Actually (2003) has to be one of my favourite Christmas films. With an all-star British cast and an absolutely cracking soundtrack, who wouldn’t love this festive masterpiece? Filled with all types of love – unrequited love, unconditional love, first love, mutual love, familial love, lost love, friendship love, and more – we can all empathise with a number of the situations which play out. This makes it all the more watchable, and an emotional rollercoaster for anyone. With its top single, Christmas Is All Around, the obscenely British swear words, and a sneaky appearance from Ant and Dec, this has to be the most British film out there. One element of this film, which is perhaps less noticeable, is the ways in which the characters are portrayed through their clothes. Of course, on the surface, they are simply wearing the typical clothes of the late 90s and early 00s, but when we look deeper, there are a number of ways the fashion fundamentally develops the story.
Mark (Andrew Lincoln) When we think of Andrew Lincoln now, most of us will picture his grubby, bearded face, with a Texan accent and a flannel shirt and jeans in The Walking Dead. In Love Actually, however, we see a pared back version of this character, with a meltingly smooth English accent, and a clean-shaven face. This characterises him as innocent and vulnerable, and when we discover his secret love for his best friend’s (Chiwetel Ejiofor) wife, Juliet, we can see why. The first time we see Mark, he wears almost the exact same outfit as Peter, his best friend. They both wear suits at Peter and Juliet’s wedding, with Peter wearing a red shirt and tie, and Mark wearing a purple shirt and tie. Their similar clothes could represent their matching love for Juliet, but Peter’s red clothes may symbolise that he has her heart. In comparison, the dark purple of Mark’s shirt could suggest the darkness in his heart in not being able to have Juliet for himself. Otherwise, when Juliet discovers his love for her, we see a completely different outfit on Mark. In this scene, he wears a turtle neck, threequarter zip sweater, with a patchwork design. This could highlight his confusion, and the division within him; he must decide whether to tell Juliet he loves her, thinking of his best friend’s feelings at all times.
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Juliet (Kiera Knightley) Keira Knightley is that celebrity women love to hate; naturally beautiful, skinny, tall - everything the media tells women they ought to be. However, I’ve always admired her, ever since I was a young child watching Pirates of the Caribbean. When I was growing up, I was always very self-conscious at the fact I had a small chest. She was the women who taught me that this was nothing to be ashamed of, and that women with small chests could look as glamorous and womanly as those with larger chests! It sounds silly, but she gave me body confidence during that rough stage of puberty we all remember. Knightley’s character in Love Actually is that classic girl nextdoor. She’s charismatic and lovely and is evangelised by our first impression of her; madly in love, in a traditional white wedding dress, with a natural face, and her hair loosely up, surrounding her face in tendrils. Later on, when she visits Mark to watch his wedding video, she wears a blue baker-boy hat, which is the exact same colour as one of the stripes on Mark’s jumper. This might represent how, by watching the video and discovering Mark loves her, she now knows more about him, and has discovered a piece of him she never knew. Finally, when she opens the door to Mark, her hair is worn down, and she is wearing an off-the-shoulder, white jumper. This harks back to her first appearance in a white wedding dress but, this time, she is more vulnerable; at home, with her shoulders exposed. This could show how Mark has broken down some of her barriers through his confession of love, showing she now sees him in a new light. Moreover, the white she wears contrasts with Mark’s black coat, perhaps highlighting how they juxtapose one another, and can never be together.
LONDON RUNWAY Karen (Emma Thompson) Emma Thompson’s story has to be the saddest of them all. When her husband, Harry, played by Alan Rickman, secretly buys another woman, Mia, a gold necklace for Christmas, she breaks down. The most amazing part about Karen is her consistent ability to put on a brave face for her children, making her possibly the most relatable character in the film, especially for any mothers out there. Generally, her outfits are loose fitting and dowdy, with a lot of knitwear and big coats and scarves. Apparently, she was also wearing a fat-suit to make her seem less desirable! She wears a lot of autumnal colours, like orange and burgundy, in comparison to Mia, who wears reds, whites and blacks – all the Christmassy colours. Perhaps this is representative of Karen being “out of season”, in contrast to Mia, who personifies the newcomings of Christmas. Mia (Heike Makatsch) Indeed, when we survey Mia’s clothes, she is the total opposite of Karen. Her stylish haircut, exotic accent, and tight-fitting clothes contrast entirely with Karen’s British accent and typically un-sexy outfits. Furthermore, as we have noted before, Mia represents everything that is “in” during this season, hence Harry’s enticement towards her. Her devil costume during the work Christmas party they attend is just the cherry on top of the cake, proleptic of her causing a riff in Karen and Harry’s relationship.
Harry (Alan Rickman) In comparison to Mia, Harry is also completely unremarkable. His character wears boring clothes, with dark colours like black and brown; he’s basically insignificant. Other than his relatively cool glasses, there is literally nothing redeeming about him. It makes us question why Mia fancies him so much - maybe she’s a home-wrecker who knows Harry is married and wants to break them apart? Or maybe she represents the epitome of desperation; she wants to feel wanted by a man she is guaranteed to see every day at work. In fact, when we finally see Mia’s house, she is all alone in her bedroom, which certainly makes the audience question her intentions. Maybe she was just lonely at Christmas? Or maybe she represents a message to women to value themselves enough to enjoy their independence.
David (Hugh Grant) David, played by the legend that is Hugh Grant, is the Prime Minister in Love Actually. He is plagued by love-at-first-sight when he sees his assistant, Natalie (Martine McCutcheon) for the first time. He is shown wearing suits and ties throughout the entire film, until the very end. This is when he receives a Christmas card from Natalie, wherein she declares her love for him, and he searches the streets of London to find her. In this scene, his tie is no longer worn, and his shirt is loose, showing he is finally free when he follows his heart. Daniel (Liam Neeson) Liam Neeson, known for his classic Irish accent, continues his everbrooding nature in his 2003 character, Daniel. Daniel is a very simple character, who constantly wears dark coloured clothes. This represents his brooding nature, and when we remember his wife has passed away, it becomes clearer why he is characterised this way. Indeed, like Queen Victoria after King Albert’s death, he remains in mourning throughout the entire film. Colin Frissell (Kris Marshall) Colin is the most immature character in the entire film. Constantly on the mission to “shag”, he is rejected left, right and centre by the women he attempts to chat up. Therefore, he makes the decision to take a trip to America to explore the opportunities out there.
His clothing represents this
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childish nature within him. He wears layered clothes, like a teenage boy, such as hoodies, worded t-shirts, and loose-fitting trousers. His hair is also messy and un-styled, making him seem unkempt and messy, much like his character. Billy Mack (Bill Nighy) Finally, Billy Mack, the UK Number One artist in Love Actually, has a very poignant fashion sense also. His character constantly wears bright colours, floating garments, and rock-star wear, much like the mods, rockers and hippies of the 60s. Harking back to this decade, his free spirit is definitely represented through his clothing. Indeed, not only does he make a fool of himself constantly on national television, but he swears all the time, showing he cares little about what others think of him. His clothes also make us question the obscure ending left between himself and his manager. Of course, we assume that their relationship is simply one of close friends, but the lack of homosexual characters within this film makes us wonder whether Mack and his manager are declaring their secret love towards one another. If this is the case, Mack’s clothes definitely portray this through the 60s vibes; a time of free love and sexual expression.
After Love Actually… Although you wouldn’t initially see Love Actually as an artistic film masterpiece, you can certainly see the clever ways in which the film makers perhaps attempted to characterise their actors via fashion. Indeed, it makes us question our opinions of these characters, allowing us to look deeper into their stories. The most prominent item of clothing throughout the entire film has to be the turtleneck jumper. This is worn countless times throughout Love Actually and is one of the main items of clothing we see today. In fact, a fair majority of the clothes in the movie have cycled back to now, including Knightley’s baker-boy hat, Alan Rickman’s stylish glasses, Mia’s devil costume, and the typical double-breasted lapel coat worn by almost every character. The film may not be an artistic masterpiece, but it is certainly a winner for any festive night-in.
You can keep up to date with Joanna’s work on her blog, itstartedwithrebecca.wordpress.com, or follow @itstartedwithrebecca on Instagram, and @iswrebecca on Twitter.
All images via YouTube
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Q A THE BIG QUESTION
We asked, you answered
WHAT’S THE WORST CHRISTMAS GIFT YOU’VE EVER RECEIVED?
&
“A lampshade and Jaffa cakes” – Shaunae, model
“The worst Christmas gift I received was a packet of playing cards and a toothbrush from my sister when I was 16. At the time I thought she was being measly. Thirtytwo years later, I realise she had given me the best present ever: wisdom (the toothbrush brand) and patience (to play with the cards)” - Martin David Edwards, photographer
“A PENCIL CASE”
– Norman Busigu, model
“I had left some video games in my mum's room. She found them and assumed my dad had bought them as Christmas gifts for me. So for Christmas I got... my own games” – Tom, student
“Books 1 to 12 of a 13-part horror series. Very clearly from a car boot sale. Also the recommended age was 10 years younger than my actual age” – anon
"I ONCE GOT A COPY OF THE SNAKES ON A PLANE SOUNDTRACK. THE NEXT YEAR, I RECEIVED A COPY OF THE DVD. I HAVE NEVER EXPRESSED AN INTEREST IN SNAKES ON A PLANE" - anon
"An electric toothbrush when I was in my late teens. Having said that, I still use it now, and it doesn’t seem as bad since I’ve reached an age where kitchen gadgets and other sensible items are actually on my wishlist! Meanwhile, I still get bottles of wine every year despite the fact that I’ve never liked red, white, or rose" - Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor
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LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: londonrunway.co.uk patreon.com/londonrunway instagram.com/londonrunwaymag twitter.com/londonrunwaymag facebook.com/londonrunwaymag pinterest.com/londonrunwaymag/ info@londonrunway.co.uk Front cover: Bryony by Rhiannon D'Averc Back cover: Robert George Sanders at Hackney Wick Fashion Week by Martin David Edwards