AUTUMN WINTER 15/16 TREND FORECAST
MOLLY COUGHLAN
LOUISE LEE
BECKY POOLE
GEORGIA GREEN
AW2015/16
NOTTINGHAM TRENT UNIVERSITY FASHION COMUNICATION AND PROMOTION YEAR 2
CONTENTS :
CREATIVE DIRECTION
RULE BREAKERS NOSTALGIA MOTHER EARTH
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
RED OR DEAD APOCOLYPSE SALVAGE
MENSWEAR
PRINT & GRAPHICS
SUPERHERO SPORTING BONKERS FE:MALE
DYSMORPHIA LINE UP DOODLE-BUG
01 CREATIVE DIRECTION
CREATIVE DIRECTION :
02 CREATIVE DIRECTION
RULE BREAKERS
NOSTALGIA
MOTHER EARTH
03 CREATIVE DIRECTION
RULE BREAKERS
04 CREATIVE DIRECTION
VIBRANT PUNCH
RULE BREAKERS The growing social attitude that drives today’s society of rebellion and relentlessness translates into the creative direction of the ‘rule breakers’. Freedom of expression and sexual attributes creates a new empire that fights away expectations and societal rules. This not-so-innocent youth pushes taboos into the fashion narrative. Punchy phrases and swearwords become prominent a nod towards the humour shared by renegade friends. Colour is bold and clashed; the rules are there to be broken. Inspiration stems from the revolutionary impact of the rebellious 70s punk scene involving Vivienne Westwood. Berlin tradeshows were off-the-wall whimsy, statements spread across walls, clothes and print. As the Mario Testino exhibition broke all the rules as he covered and revealed with his array of unruly imagery.
05 CREATIVE DIRECTION
NOSTALGIA
06 CREATIVE DIRECTION
NOSTALGIA Rejecting technology and embracing the past encourages an opportunity to pause and reflect on our ubiquitous demands for an ever-developed lifestyle. Simplicity, sentimentality and the sixties and seventies create a wistful yearning for the past, whilst the use of uncomplicated materials in both garment and set design juxtapose the conventions of luxury branding. Robin Brown’s popular exhibition ‘The Collector’, Erdem created a 60’s living room as part of his AW15 catwalk show, complete with vintage Vogue magazines and retro wallpaper. Whilst hotspots in London such as Cereal Killer cafe blast the past across walls with childhood memorabilia.
VINTAGE COFFEE
07 CREATIVE DIRECTION
MOTHER EARTH
08 CREATIVE DIRECTION
PETALS ON THE LAWN
MOTHER EARTH Bringing the great outdoors, indoors. Leafy interiors, mossy catwalks and pretty pink flowers are integral to this dreamy ambiguity, that will spread from store to shirt. Darker shades are suggestive of fairytale forests, whilst their pastel companions appear fragile with connotations of a pre-Raphaelite age. Inspiration is taken from William Shakespeare’s ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’, aswell as Argentine artist Alexandra Kehayoglou’s rug art, creating an aspirational but vulnerable luxury aesthetic.
09 VISUAL MERCHANDISING
VISUAL MERCHANDISING :
10 VISUAL MERCHANDISING
RED OR DEAD
APOCOLYPSE
SALVAGE
11 VISUAL MERCHANDISING
RED OR DEAD
12 VISUAL MERCHANDISING
RED OR DEAD This Red or dead trend focuses on colour as a key element to create dramatic energy in store. The application of black interior against a sinister scarlet red will be predominant drawing inspiration from religion, death and disturbing scenarios. Techno club, Tresor in Berlin provides the kind of aesthetic to achieve within this trend, imitating a dungeon and providing sensations of panic with dim light and smoke. Cages and chains are prominent to stimulate elements of danger as courageous brands interpret this trend in a range of ways from providing a memorable consumer experience across the store to a low key interpretation of the trend in colour ways or in window displays. Lanvin window displays splash red paint over legs allowing for a narrative of blood and danger. Morbid, distressed suede and leather textures compliment the fundamental elements of this trend.
PANIC BUTTON
13 VISUAL MERCHANDISING
APOCOLYPSE
14
APOCOLYPSE
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
The concept of an Apocolypse has always been at the forefront of speculation and with the help of films, Apocolypse Now and This is the End, consumers have previously bought into this idea of chaos and destruction. Now, it has exploded into a trend. This visual merchandising trend focuses on cold-dark matter on a catastrophic scale, using shredded and torn objects to allude to an area of demolition. Tones of black and greys are key to be part of the Apocolypse. This trend was captured by Heinz Bauer Manufakt at Premium, Berlin 2015 where piles of shredded garments were lay across the show space. Apocolypse has also been captured through art involving a piece by Cornelia Parker which showcases an exploded view that is beyond our emotion control.
RAW DESTRUCTION
15
SALVAGE VISUAL MERCHANDISING
16 VISUAL MERCHANDISING
DOMESTIC DASH
SALVAGE In a society constantly striving for more, sometimes it is important to show less. Salvaging lo-fi materials and giving them a luxe finish provides consumers with a frugal fairytale, and creative inspiration to find paradise in their everyday lives. Economic factors such as the recession have driven this need for an achievable utopia, with the familiarity of mundane objects providing unconventional escapism. Artists and architects such as Nick Albertson and Sand Laurenson will challenge and transform the mundane, with playful and imaginative interpretations to redesign and reevaluate the traditional retail space. Bloomingdales, Atrium and Club Monaco open up creative worlds and playful concepts in windows elevating ordinary objects.
17 MENSWEAR
MENSWEAR :
18 MENSWEAR
SUPERHERO SPORTING
BONKERS
FE:MALE
19 MENSWEAR
SUPERHERO SPORTING
20 MENSWEAR
SUPERHERO SPORTING The strive to be the best and reach extortionate heights of ability has a driving force on menswear. Fusing fashion and performance, sportswear has taken elements borrowed from the latest wave of big-screen superheroes. Almost stimulating the idea of a childhood superhero role model, this imitation is transgressed into current men’s fashion. Hyper performance and enhancing activity is played up through the use of functional design delivering a high-octane futurist punch. Webbed overlays, silicone and latex are key supporting muscles with jackets sporting structural flourishes that suggest heroic escapism. Hard wearing, protective performance textiles are utilised as heroic colours accentuate movement and capture superhero attributes. The eruption of the wearable tech market has been integrated into this trend to create an improved version of the self. Tech conscious elements such as heat reactive textiles, laser integrated hoods, smart wristwear and led lighting is elevated to the powerful potential and level of the superheroes.
SUPER-HUES
21 MENSWEAR
BONKERS
22 MENSWEAR
BONKERS Contrasting prints and gaudy accessories create a loud and experimental style: a youthful and irreverent adjustment to the sophisticated gentleman of previous seasons. Spectacular flamboyance provides a departure from the dull realities of twenty first century working life, with a revolutionary punk edge reminiscent of 1970’s Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. Fur, feathers and animal print provides texture and an exotic edge to create uproar. Chaotic madness is the main focus for this random menswear trend, anything goes. Sibling and Moschino take risks with a tongue in cheek aesthetic, inducing sensations of joy with an unbalanced collision of eccentric chic.
COLOIURS OF CHAOS
23 MENSWEAR
FE:MALE
24 MENSWEAR
THE GENTLE MAN
FE: MALE Fe:male is all about the gender blurring of appearances and not complying to certain ways of dressing depending on your sex. Elegance and fragility has evolved into the form of menswear, showcasing the female silhouette on male models by construction of the waist and proving gracefulness and elegance is not only in womanly form. Lace makes for pretty detailing and long length dresses and skirts adorn menswear graciously. This menswear trend pushes the boundaries of the structured society we live in and shows the progressive nature of traditional views towards dressing and sexual orientation. Diversity is exploited throughout the fashion industry moving past the point of androgyny. Gucci’s A/W 2015 collection is a perfect example of how feminine styles and materials such as lace have crept into menswear.
25 PRINT & GRAPHICS
PRINT & GRAPHICS:
26 PRINT & GRAPHICS
DYSMORPHIA
LINE-UP
DOODLE-BUG
27 PRINT & GRAPHICS
DYSMORPHIA
28 PRINT & GRAPHICS
DYSMORPHIA As pressures of looking the ‘perfect’ way in today’s society grow so does the protesting against this image. This print and graphics trend, Dysmorphia, pushes the boundaries of what is deemed acceptable and showcases diversity in appearances. Abstraction is the main focus of this trend, using vibrant clashing colours and distorted face prints to battle against the norm. The abstract element has been inspired by the Surrealist movement and artist Picasso’s Crying Woman in particular. Agi and Sam’s Fall 2015 catwalk accurately showcased this trend by clashing primary colours and distorting the faces of the models through the use of objects. French designer Jacquemus also intertwined Dysmorphia into his collection by drawing on extra facial features on the side of each model’s face.
CREATIVE CLASH
29 PRINT & GRAPHICS
LINE-UP
30 PRINT & GRAPHICS
FRESH CUT
LINE-UP Structured or sporadic, lines are back and making an impact on the runway. A traditionally conservative graphic, this simple silhouette is brought up to date with splashes of colour and stimulating textures. Graphic, fashion and interior designers are embracing all things geometric, and be they linear or interrupted, lines are here to stay.
31 PRINT & GRAPHICS
DOODLE-BUG
32 PRINT & GRAPHICS
DOODLE-BUG Fluro colours, a dynamic composition and a quirky message make this handmade trend a refreshing approach to print and graphics. Moving away from the perfected ideology of the photoshop era, this comic book style reflects a growing social attitude for rejecting the norm and expressing ourselves satirically. There is often an underlying sarcasm to these prints, igniting discussion and controversy. Hattie Stewart has provided handrendered illustrations to several magazines over the past few years, whilst recent catwalk shows from Katie Eary and E Tautz have introduced this idiosyncratic approach to mainstream apparel.
BUBBLEGUM SKETCH