SPRING / SUMMER 2012
A S E A S O N A L G U I D E TO T H E M I D - H U D S O N VA L L E Y
TO GO, PLEASE Great take-out food in the region
A GOOD WALK SPOILED Golfing in the Hudson Valley
36 HOURS IN NEW PALTZ Where to eat, stay, shop, and play
COMMUNITY
BUS I NES S
EDUCATION
NEW PALTZ
REGIONAL
CHAMBER OF
COMMERCE
TOURISM
NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE www.newpaltzchamber.org
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A DEGREE...AND AN EDUCATION.
]
P RTNERMAINSTA PA STA TAY AYSE SERVICEIMPAC C PACT PAC
DISCOV SCO OVER RELAT A IONSHIPSEX AT EXPLOR EP E RSP ECTIVEI NVE NTIVE N ESSFLO OU RISHCONN N E C TI O N
INSPEAKERSMAS N SP NSP MAS MA ST ERS S CO NC SCO C ERTS S CO CO NFERENC F ER FE R C ES S SY SS SYMPOSIUMTHEAT Y A REEXHIBITS AT
CRREO OBAC HEL LORS SMU US EUMLIBRARY
One of the most well-regarded public colleges in the nation, New Paltz offers nearly 100 undergraduate degrees, 50 masters degrees, 2 post master’s degree programs and one joint doctoral program. Through its mission of education and civic engagement, New Paltz stands out as an active contributor to the schools, businesses, non-profit organizations and economic vitality of the region and serves as a vibrant intellectual and creative hub for Hudson Valley residents.
S TAT E U N I V E R S I T Y O F N E W Y O R K
www.newpaltz.edu 845-257-7869
Where family is the story... N e W PA LT z , N e W Y O R K Historic Huguenot Street, situated along the banks of the Wallkill River in New Paltz, is an early 18th century French settlement. The historic site includes the DuBois Fort Visitor Center, seven authentic Dutch-style stone houses, a reconstructed 1717 stone church and burial ground, the Schoonmaker Research Library, a portrait gallery and rotating exhibits, extensive archives, and ten landscaped acres. In addition to tours and special programs, Historic Huguenot Street is available for rentals including weddings and private parties. Also, the site is within walking distance of shopping and dining in downtown New Paltz, New York. Dubois Fort Visitor Center Open for guided tours June 1st through October 28th; 10:30 am to 4:30 pm, except Tuesday & Wednesdays. Guided tours are offered at 11:00 am, 1:00 pm, and 3:00 pm. Open for special events and private tours year round. Call or visit our website, www.huguenotstreet.org, for information on exhibits, public programs, and our library and archives.
A N AT I O N A L H I S T O R I C L A N D m A R K D I S T R I C T
845.255.1889 | www.huguenotstreet.org 81 Huguenot Street, New Paltz, NY 12561 SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 1
Letter from
Michael Smith
I
am consistently impressed by the range and diversity of local businesses that make up the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce, and take pride in the vital role we play to help cultivate that diversity among our membership. The Hudson Valley region’s unique character—and the variety of good stuff available here—is a principal component of the high quality of life enjoyed by all who live, play, work and worship here. Sojourn, a regional guide to the Hudson Valley, is your guide to the best of that good stuff. Whether you’re seeking rest and relaxation or an outdoor adventure, the historical perspective or agricultural delights, Sojourn gives you what you need to get started discovering the Hudson Valley throughout the summer, always keeping the Think Local First principle in mind. In this issue, we open the cover on the Valley’s literary legacy, highlight the many ways golf in the New Paltz area is far more than par for the course, help you get smart with terrifically useful mobile apps, get “inn” to the groove of the area’s historic small lodging properties, carry you away with delicious regional take-out options, and hit all the high points with a spectacular start-to-finish New Paltz weekend itinerary. You’ll also get a sneak peak at the 22nd Annual Taste of New Paltz, a Hudson Valley Festival of Food and Fun, a project of the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce.
The Chamber is proud to serve as a resource for visitors to our region, providing literature, tips and advice year-round in our Visitor Center and through our popular website, www.newpaltzchamber.org. We hope you stop by to see us at 257 Main St., New Paltz or drop us a line through the “contact us” section of our website.
Sincerely,
Michael Smith, President, New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce
On the cover: Bistro-To-Go’s “Chef’s Seasonal Vegetable Medley,” a blend of farm fresh broccoli, cauliflower, squash, sugar snap peas and cherry tomatoes, tossed with olice oil, shallots, and fresh herbs. Our article on great take-out food in the Hudson Valley (“To Go, Please”), appears on page 20.
Sojourn is published twice yearly by the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce. Publishing services provided by Luminary Publishing, publishers of Chronogram. Luminary Publishing: 845-334-8600; www.info.chronogram.com. Information in this publication was carefully compiled to ensure maximum accuracy. However, the New Paltz Regional Chamber cannot guarantee the correctness of all information provided herein. Readers noting inaccurate information should contact the Chamber with corrections and updates. © 2012 New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce is strictly prohibited. The New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce is located at 257 Main Street, New Paltz, NY, 12561. 845-255-0243. Fax: 845-255-5189.
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WWW.NEWPALTZCHAMBER.ORG THE NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
SPRING / SUMMER 2012 CONTENTS
20
EAT
TO GO, PLEASE
The bounty of the Hudson Valley takes many forms, from farm stands to fine dining. Another notable food venue is the take-out joint. We’ve gathered some gourmet options. Above: Karma Road, New Paltz. Photo by Michelle Williams.
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TRAVEL APPS App-titude
24
LODGING
Historic Inns and B&Bs
Leave the guidebook behind with these Hudson Valley travel apps.
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The region is awash in some of the earliest and liveliest dramas of the creation of the US. And you can stay where the patriots once camped out!
H ISTORY
Writers’ Homes The region is a literary wonderland. Visit writers’ homes in the Hudson Valley.
12 FESTIVALS
Spring/ Summer Clearwater Festival, Bounty of the Valley Wine Festival, Phoenicia International Festival of the Voice, and more.
16
GOLF A Good
Walk Spoiled
Local golf courses draw visitors from far afield for their scenic beauty, speed of play, and affordability.
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OUTDOORS Parks of the Mid-Hudson Our parks have it all, from stately mansions tours to rugged trekking.
28
ITINERARY
36 Hours in New Paltz Our correspondent, Edna Welthorpe, plans out your weekend of fun, food, and lodging off Exit 18.
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EVENTS
Spring/ Summer Exceptional happenings in the region this spring and summer, from rock concerts and garden tours to regional art shows and spiritual retreats.
35 Information Resources for your visit to the Mid-Hudson Valley.
egional Map 36 R Who says you can’t get here from there?
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 3
Connect. Communicate. Collaborate. 3rd Annual New Paltz Challenge Half Marathon and Father’s Day Family 5K Sunday, June 17, 2012. Registration: 6 - 7 a.m. / Half Marathon Start: 7:30 a.m. / 5K Start: 8 a.m. Registration at Gilded Otter Brewing Co., 3 Main St., New Paltz Begin or continue a new Father’s Day tradition with the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce 2nd Annual New Paltz Challenge, a Father’s Day Half Marathon and Family 5K. Both races begin at the corner of Main St. and Huguenot St., New Paltz and loop north on the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail to Rosendale and south again to finish at Gilded Otter Brewing Co. This race is chip timed and includes age group awards, water stops, mile markers and post-race refreshments. More information and online registration is available at www.active.com. This healthy event is part of the Chamber’s commitment to promoting wellness in the workplace and at home in the Hudson Valley.
22nd Annual Taste of New Paltz Sunday, September 16, 2012, 11:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Ulster County Fairgrounds, 249 Libertyville Rd., New Paltz Taste of New Paltz is one of the Hudson Valley’s finest outdoor food festivals, celebrating the region’s renowned restaurants, wineries and farm markets. The Taste offers culinary delights to satisfy any palate; the adventurous gourmet, the elite epicurean and the family-oriented traditional diner will all find what they seek among the Taste’s tents. While food and wine are the primary focus of the event, the Taste also offers a variety of fun activities for the whole family, including Kids’ Expo ( face painting, rides, entertainment and giveaways), Antiques Expo (vintage and antique items for sale and display), Artistic Taste (paintings, drawings and photography by local artists), Business Expo (are businesses and services, plus “The Great Giveaway”), Craft Expo (handcrafted jewelry, ceramics and other handmade items), Country Store (packaged edibles for sampling and purchase), and Wellness and Recreation Expo (health, fitness, and recreation information and demonstrations). Live music all day rounds out the event. Come and enjoy the Taste and be a part of a decades-long Hudson Valley tradition! All gate proceeds benefit the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce, its members and community programs. LEADING PARTNER COBESO, Inc. ASSOCIATE PARTNER Central Hudson Gas & Electric Corp. Ulster Savings
The programs and services of the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce are made possible, in part, by the generous support of its members at the Corporate Partnership level. We deeply appreciate their loyal support.
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SUPPORTING PARTNERS HealthAlliance of the Hudson Valley Health Quest Hudson Valley Federal Credit Union KIC Chemicals, Inc. Law Offices of James Yastion, PLLC M&T Bank Vanacore, DeBenedictus, DiGovanni & Weddell LLP, CPAs
WWW.NEWPALTZCHAMBER.ORG THE NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
BOARD OFFICERS Chair Chris Drouin
Beyond Wealth Management 1st Vice Chair Frank Curcio
Bank of America 2nd Vice Chair Craig Shankles PDQ Business Printers Secretary Connie Harkin Ulster Savings Treasurer Mindi Haynes Vanacore, DeBenedictus, DiGovanni and Weddell LLP, CPAs Legal Counsel James Yastion Law Offices of James Yastion, PLLC Past Chair Ernie VanDeMark Central Hudson Gas & Electric Corp. BOARD OF DIRECTORS
Tom Edwards Fox & Hound Wine and Spirits Richard Heyl de Ortiz Court Appointed Special Advocates for Children Kay Hoiby Freefall Express, Inc. Glen F. Kubista Glen F. Kubista & Associates Wade Lott Walter Marquez Water Street Market Dr. David Ness Performance Sports and Wellness Glenn Sutherland Catskill Hudson Bank Patrick Turner Little Pond Consulting Susan Van De Bogart St. Luke’s Cornwall Hospital Center for Rehabilitation Emeritus Members
Robert Leduc Mohonk Mountain House Rick Lewis Riverside Bank Susan VanVoorhis M&T Bank Regional Chamber of Commerce Foundation at New Paltz Board of Directors Chair Kathy Ferrusi
Hudson Valley Federal Credit Union Vice-Chair Sue VanVoorhis M&T Bank Secretary Teresa Thompson Main Street Bistro Treasurer Joyce Minard New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce Board Member Joanne Fredenberg Board Member Cathy Sifre Board Member Sally Cross SUNY New Paltz Foundation Chamber Staff President
water street market 1/2 v
The Great Indoors in the Heart of The Great Outdoors A unique Hudson Valley experience — hip and vibrant European-inspired community of over 20 Boutiques, Stores, Galleries and Restaurants, set on the banks of the
Wallkill River, at the base of the Shawangunk Ridge.
WaterStreetMarket.com
10 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-1403
Michael Smith Director of Marketing and Communications
Christine Crawfis Membership Relations Associate
Susan Colchamiro Communications and Programs Administrator
Janet Nurre
NYS Thruway Exit 18. Take Route 299 West (Main St) to left onto Water St. at the foot of the bridge. Look for the Tower.
Director of Special Projects
Joyce Minard As of June 1, 2012 SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 5
TRAVEL APPS
APP-TITUDE
Explore the Region’s Offerings with Travel Apps By Melissa Esposito
W
hether you’re visiting the area or have lived in the Hudson Valley your entire life, there’s always more to explore here. Thanks to the speedy increase in smartphone and tablet app technology, no longer do tourists—or touring residents—have to rely on out-of-date travel books or word of mouth to find the best eateries, a nearby winery, or even the cheapest place to fill up the tank. Of course you don’t want to spend the entire trip looking at an electronic device and miss out on the Valley’s scenic beauty, but the following apps can help you plan a memorable itinerary and save you money. The Hudson Valley: Yep, there’s even an app for that. Travel Hudson Valley Hudson Valley tourism defines their turf as the 10 counties north of New York City and this app helps to locate everything from historic sites to hot air balloon rides. The program can track where you are and offer a list of “What’s Nearby,” or you can do your own digital search and find a variety of lodging options, restaurants, and cultural centers. Other features include social media tracking, augmented reality codes, and a “Favorites” tab to help you remember where you had that fabulous lobster bisque or delicious craft beer. Cost: free. A wine is a terrible thing to waste. Wine Wherever With its increasing variety of vineyards, wineries, and wine-tasting events, the Valley has been nicknamed the “Napa of the Northeast.” But after a full day of tasting it’s easy to forget where you sampled a particular favorite or other details you’ve learned. Wine Wherever New York 6
compiled an informative directory containing more than 200 wineries and features a map that pinpoints which ones are nearby. Additionally, the app offers a “journal” function where you can list varietals, rate bottles, take notes and upload a photo. Wine-newbies will want to check out the section on tasting room etiquette and conversation starters. Cost: free.
He said, she said. Yelp Mobile Find hidden gems, best kept secrets, or the hottest place in any town with this review-based app. Yelp Mobile pinpoints your location and offers information about nearby eateries, banks, gas stations, drug stores, and other businesses, all of which are given star ratings based on comments and written recommendations. Think that sushi place on the corner looks good? Want to know which bar has a great karaoke night? Need an ATM stat? Compare the listings in each category and make your decision based on previous visitors’ experiences. Cost: free.
WWW.NEWPALTZCHAMBER.ORG THE NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
Find your next favorite restaurant. Zagat If you’re looking for a full-service restaurant app, Zagat does pretty much everything short of putting the food in your mouth. First, choose a restaurant based on location, cuisine, décor, service, or cost. Then reserve your table and browse a menu; signature dishes are pointed out. The app also offers Top-Rated lists of eateries that have won local “Best of ” awards, and its Digital Concierge offers suggestions about ideal places to take dates, clients, and friends. Cost: $9.99 through iTunes. A little night music. Songkick Why pore over event listings or navigate your way through online calendars when a list of local concerts by your favorite musicians is already waiting for you on your phone? This app first scans your music library then tracks your location and delivers a list of nearby shows featuring artists from your playlist. Other features let you view the full lineup, browse a map of the venue, invite friends, and choose your tickets. In addition, you’ll be alerted to new concert announcements and find a tour schedule for almost any band on your playlist. Cost: free. Get your ghost stories ready. Campfinder Whether you’ve been traveling for hours and need a place to park your RV or you just feel like spending an evening making s’mores under the stars, Campfinder is a nifty tool for camp-enthusiasts. Developed by CampingRoadTrip.com, this app locates nearby campgrounds and RV parks, or lets you search by city. Those who choose to rough it—while still carrying a smartphone— might also want to look into the Flashlight app, which provides a bright, white screen that illuminates your surroundings, and Bug Spray, which reportedly emits a barely audible (to humans) high frequency noise that repels mosquitoes. Cost: Campfinder $2.99 through iTunes, Flashlight and Bug Spray are free.
Experience Ulster County Style
PLENTY TO SEE: THE NEWEST ATTRACTION, THE WALKWAY OVER THE HUDSON, QUAINT ANTIQUE SHOPS, BEAUTIFUL STREETSCAPES, THE MOST-FAMOUS SMALL TOWN IN THE WORLD – WOODSTOCK – AND MORE. PLENTY TO DO: ULSTER COUNTY OFFERS FOUR SEASONS OF ADVENTURE WITH MORE THAN 350 MILES OF HIKING TRAILS, WORLD-CLASS ROCK CLIMBING, KAYAKING, HANG
Fill er up. Gas Buddy With gas prices constantly fluctuating, it seems that even a casual drive needs to be equated into one’s weekly budget. But for those who prefer to hit the pavement, especially daytrippers or road trip travelers, this app prevents the gas station roulette game we often play: “Should we stop here? There might be a cheaper one right down the road…” Search a comprehensive list of up-to-date gas prices by city, state, or current location and save money. Cost: free.
GLIDING, SKIING AND MORE.
A world of adventure Hudson Valley/Catskill Regions
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 7
HISTORY
A Literary Tour HUDSON VALLEY WRITERS’ HOMES By Edna Welthorpe
N
ot everyone who hopes to write The Great American Novel will toil in an urban tenement building, drawing their inspiration from the chaos outside their window. Following the Hudson Valley School painters, scribes also became frequent visitors to this area. They were drawn by the bountiful inspiration: fields and woods in which to meditate; lofty mountains to climb; or the silences of country living that allow a writer to turn inward. Many flocked to the Woodstock area, drawn by word of a fledgling artist community that flourished at the start of the 20th century and welcomed painters, writers, musicians and bohemians.
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Opposite: Portrait of Washington Irving. Above: Irving’s Tarrytown mainsion, known as Sunnyside, which is now a museum open to the public.
Many made a mark on the publishing world, finding brief fame or immortalization. This admittedly subjective survey has omitted writers merely born in this area but who soon left, or those who attended school here. (Apologies to Elizabeth Bishop and Mary McCarthy.) Ditto brief visitors. (Henry James, Edith Wharton). Or those who taught at area colleges. (Saul Bellow, Ralph Ellison.) Living writers were also exempted. Hence the absence of Gore Vidal, whose 1950s Barrytown home was a magnet for audacious writers and personalities. While the geographical inspiration for his characters occurred both north and south of this region, one cannot overlook the legacy of Washington Irving (1783-1859). The immensely popular author is an avatar of homegrown American literature, still remembered for the colorful and comic characters of “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow” and “Rip Van Winkle.” Irving wrote the Father Knickerbocker Tales while living at the Knickerbocker Mansion in Schaghticoke in Rensselaer County. His remaining years were spent at his Tarrytown mansion in Westchester, known as Sunnyside, which is a museum open to the public. Born in Tennessee but the epitome of the hard-living Manhattanite, writer and critic James Agee (1909-1955) spent the last nine years of his life in Hillsdale in Columbia County. While death came in a New York taxicab—a heart attack—Agee rests in Hudson Valley soil. His 1957 novel A Death in the Family received a posthumous Pulitzer. Poet Saul Bennett (1936-2006) of Woodstock was a latecomer to his craft, compelled to write verse after the sudden death of his daugh-
ter from a brain aneurysm in 1994. The resulting collection, New Fields and Other Stones: On a Child’s Death, received the Benjamin Franklin Silver Award. His second book, Harpo Marx at Prayer, was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize. Naturalist John Burroughs (1837-1921) wrote about the ecosystem around him, imploring his fellow man, evidently in vain, to preserve the delicate balance between man and nature. Naturalist, essayist, and writer. Born in Roxbury, Burroughs lived for the final quarter-century of his life in an Ulster County cabin he called Slabsides, where he entertained friends and heads of state. Slabsides Nature Preserve in West Park is a Natural Historic Site. The epitome of the tortured artist, poet Hart Crane (1899-1932) was a diehard New Yorker, but lived in Woodstock with between 1923 and 1925, and then took up residence in 1925 outside of Pawling, seven years before he committed suicide. French-born Michel-Guillaume Jean De Crevecoeur (1735-1813) moved to America and maintained a farm in Orange County. His 1782 book Letters from an American Farmer joins the works of Thomas Jefferson in a small genre of writings by hands-on gentleman farmers. Science fiction author and poet Thomas M. Disch (1940-2008), best known for the enduring children’s book, The Brave Little Toaster (1980) enjoyed a second home in Sullivan County’s Barryville. Writer Hamlin Garland (1860-1940), who won the 1921 Pulitzer for his memoir A Daughter of the Middle Border, and wrote extensively about American farmers, spent his summers in Onteora Park in Greene County from 1917 to the 1930s. SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 9
Above and right: Naturalist John Burroughs Ulster County cabin retreat called Slabsides, a National Historic Landmark.
Known as the father of the American western novel, Zane Grey (1872-1939) ultimately sold 13 million books. But he spent his winters far from the prairie, in Middletown. The unbridled spirit Edna St. Vincent Millay (1892-1950) was as well known for her passions as for her sonnets. The Greenwich Village bohemian moved in 1923 to Austerlitz, New York, with husband, Eugen Jan Boissevain. Their farm, Steepletop, was later transformed into an arts colony. Edward R. Murrow (1908-1965), the thinking man’s broadcaster, whose World War II radio transmissions from London turned journalism into poetry, enjoyed a second residence for several years in Pawling, where he died in 1965. Rex Stout (1886-1975) the novelist who created detective Nero Wolfe, lived at High Meadows Estate in Brewster, located in Putnam County. Allen Tate (1899-1979), best known for his towering Southern Gothic novel The Fathers (1938) shared a house with wife, writer Caroline Gordon, near Pawling, from 1925 to 1926. Poet Janine Pommy Vega (1942-2010), known for her connections to the Beats, and whose output included Poems to Fernando (1968), Journal Of a Hermit (1974) and 1988’s Drunk on a Glacier: Talking to Flies, lived for many years in Willow, up the road from Woodstock. While novelist Susan Bogert Warner (18191885) is all but forgotten, her 1851 book The Wide, Wide World (written under the pseudonym of Elizabeth Weatherell) was second only to Stowe’s Uncle Tom’s Cabin in success during the 19th century. Warner lived for many years on Constitution Island in the Hudson River, opposite West Point. She immortalized her Columbia County childhood summers by naming another book Queechy, after her town. 10
Poet, painter, and teacher Ruth Green West (1905-2007) lived most of her life in her native Kerhonkson in Ulster County, where she died in her 103rd year. Her career as a writer of verse included editorship of Oxalis magazine. A manuscript she wrote in the 1930s on Ulster County life has never been published. Candace Wheeler (1827-1923) was born in Delhi in Delaware County and founded the Onteora Club, an artists colony that drew luminaries Mark Twain and John Burroughs. Acclaimed Southern writer Thomas Wolfe (1900-1938) made Dutchess County his retreat for five years, from 1935 to 1940, living in a gatehouse at Fox Hollow in Rhinecliff. During that time, he wrote Of Time And The River and his masterwork You Cant Go Home Again. Many thanks to the invaluable website New York State Literary Tree. Find more information about Hudson Valley Writers at www.nyslittree.org. For more information on local history, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
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QUAIL HOLLOW EVENTS
2012
For 31 Years, a Hudson Valley Tradition
WOODSTOCK-NEW PALTZ
ART & CRAFTS FAIR
Turned & Carved Maple Vase Paul Petrie Jr.
Labor Day Weekend Sept. 1, 2 & 3
ULSTER COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS, NEW PALTZ, NY (845) 679-8087 • (845) 246-3414 DETAILS & DISCOUNTS AT : QUAILHOLLOW.COM
PLAZA DINER Serving the community with quality food & service since 1969.
Farm Store & Gift Shop Spring 2012
Grass-Fed Angus Beef Berkshire Pork Chicken Raised on Pasture Free Range Eggs
Brookside-farm.com
Stop & Shop Plaza New Paltz (845) 255-1030
845-895-SIDE / 7433 • Gardiner, NY
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 11
SPRING SUMMER
FESTIVALS By MOLLY LINDSAY
Above: Pete Seeger (far left) and friends performing at the Clearwater Festival.
Strawberry Festival June 10 Every June, The Beacon Sloop Club hosts the city’s sweetest festival at Beacon’s Riverfront Park. Delectable strawberry treats will include strawberry shortcake that is baked on-site, smoothies, and hand-dipped chocolate-covered berries. Local vendors will be selling a variety of food and crafts, and live music will be preformed throughout the day. Following tradition, there will be an appearance by one of BSC’s founders Pete Seeger, and the Woody, a wooden replica of a gaff-rigged Hudson River ferry sloop, will be available for free sails on the Hudson all day. (914) 907-4928; www.beaconsloop.org. Shakespeare Festival at Boscobel restoration June 12-September 2 For 25 years the Hudson Valley Shakespeare festival has created critically-acclaimed visionary performances to commemorate Shakespeare’s plays. Every summer from June through September, the outdoor stage reopens at Boscobel 12
for an all encompassing experience with majestic view of the Hudson River. The 2012 season offers three productions including Love’s Labour’s Lost, Romeo and Juliet, and The 39 Steps. Coldspring. (845) 809-5750; www.hvshakespeare.org.
Belleayre Music Festival July 7-September 1 The breathtaking views from Belleayre Mountain always make for a stunning backdrop for live music, and this year is no exception. The 2012 listing of summer events at the Highmount ski resort is rich with rock, soul, jazz, opera, country, show tunes, and more. On the books are the Spinners (July 7), Josh Turner (July 14), Christine Ebersole (July 21), Puccini’s La Boheme (July 28), Ed Palermo’s Little Big Band with a tribute to Frank Zappa (August 3), a celebration of Lionel Hampton by Jason Marsalis and Dianne Schuur (August 4), Stefon Harris (August 10), Pat Metheny’s Unity Band (August 11), and the Belleayre Festival Orchestra performing Led Zeppelin (September 1). www.belleayremusic.org
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Above: Strawberry mint popsicle at Beacon’s annual Strawberry Festival.
Rosendale Street Festival July 21 and 22 In the heat of late July, Main Street in Rosendale shuts down for two days and thousands flood to the quiet town for music, food, art, and entertainment. Vendors litter the narrow street, while all local establishments participate by opening their doors for festival patrons. Listen to over 74 local bands at the four music stages and one family/children’s entertainment stage set up throughout town. The Rosendale Theater also screens short films all afternoon. Don’t forget to join in on the pounding rhythms of the African drum circle in front of the Drum Depot. (845) 943-6497; www.rosendalestreetfestival.ning.com. Clearwater Festival June 16, 17 Founded by Pete Seeger, Clearwater’s Great Hudson River Revival is a music and environment-focused festival. The oldest of its kind in America, Clearwater is held at Croton Point Park—located on the banks of the Hudson River. With an always diverse line-up, the artists transcend music boundaries with sounds of bluegrass, African, indie-rock, and blues. Ani DiFranco, Bela Fleck, Arlo Guthrie & The Guthrie Family, Jay Unger and Molly Mason, and Vanaver Caravan are just a few of the acts performing this June. Croton-on-Hudson. (845) 236-5596; www.clearwater.org.
Friends of the Farmer Festival July 28 Eat local: know your farmers, know your food— a mantra we are beginning to hear more and more frequently. The Friends of the Farmer Festival strives to bring local farmers, growers, specialty food producers, chefs, restaurateurs, winemakers, brewers, and distillers together to aid in the Hudson Valley farm movement. Only its second year, at this budding festival, patrons are sure to eat, shop, drink, and learn with local growers. Proceeds from ticket sales go to support the farmers of the Hudson Valley. Copake Country Club, Copake Lake. (518) 325-9437; www.friendsofthefarmer.com.
Bounty of the Hudson Wine Festival July 28 and 29 French Hugenot settlers brought their winemaking expertise to the Hudson Valley over 300 years ago. The twelve wineries that make up the Shawangunk Wine Trail continue to uphold the Hugenot’s legacy by creating some of the finest wines in New York State. Located at a different winery each year, the Bounty of the Hudson Wine Festival brings together wine lovers from the region and beyond. Aside from the collection of award-winning wines the festival features live entertainment, farm fresh produce, and artisan cheeses that are all produced locally. (845) 256-8456. www.shawangunkwinetrail.com SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 13
Above: Spectators at the Phoenicia International Festival of the Voice.
Peekskill Jazz and Blues Festival July 21 Every year for one night in late summer, the streets of downtown Peekskill come alive with the rhythms of jazz and blues. Located in the upper tip of Northern Westchester County, Peekskill has a diverse cultural climate with a thriving community of artists and musicians. For six years, The Peekskill Jazz and Blues Festival has continued to attract thousands from across the Hudson Valley and Tri-State areas. (914) 737-3400; www.cityofpeekskill.com. Blueberry Festival July 29 Eat so many blueberries that you may risk the fate of Willy Wonka’s Veruca Salt. Aside from blueberry goodies galore the festival offers antiques, live music, and entertainment for all ages with a birds of prey demonstration and a petting zoo. A delicious array of foods will be available including blueberry pancake breakfast. Rain or shine. Austerlitz. (518) 392-0062; www.oldausterlitz.org. Phoenicia International Festival of the Voice August 2, 3, 4, & 5 Located in the heart of the Catskill region is the small town of Phoenicia. The town’s rich artistic and musical culture is matched by the lavish greenery of the mountains in August. In its inaugural year in 2010, the International Festival of the Voice had such a large turnout the coordinators decided to make it an annual town staple. The festival strives to “promote the voice as an 14
instrument of peace, healing, and artistic expression.” The four-day event focuses on classical traditions of opera, song, baroque and choral music. (845) 688-1344; www.phoeniciavoicefest.com.
Shawangunk Mountain Wild Blueberry and Huckleberry Festival August 11 Wild blueberries and huckleberries have been harvested in the Hudson Valley since the late 19th century. The berry business was a significant local industry particularly in Ellenville because of its railroad access. This annual festival pays homage to the tiny, delicious round fruits that are still readily available in the Shawangunk region. The early bird catches a pancake breakfast at 7:30 am, and later in the day is a blueberry pie baking contest and blueberry pie sale. Other highlights include music and entertainment all day, an art show, crafts, a children’s area. Ellenville. (845) 647-4620; www.ewcoc.com Corn Festival August 12 The annual corn festival helps raise funds for the upkeep of the club’s flagship The Woody Guthrie. Much like the Beacon Sloop Club’s strawberry festival, the club’s corn festival will hold live music including legend and Beacon resident Pete Seeger, and there will be free sails on the Hudson aboard The Woody. A great variety of local food, crafts, and environmental booths will be onsite. Beacon Riverfront Park. (914) 907-4928; www.beaconsloop.org.
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R o c k
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in the Shawangunks
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• Rock Climbing • Ice Climbing
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SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 15
sport
A GOOD WALK
SPOILED Golfing the Hudson Valley By Erik Ofgang
M
ark Twain is said to have referred to golf as a “good walk spoiled,” but to lovers of the outdoor game there are few things in life that bring as much joy as a golfing excursion. In fact, golf fanatics commonly display the type of ardent passion for the game that is normally reserved for new Apple products or cast members from the Twilight movies. Love of golf is nothing new, the modern form of golf was being played in Scotland as early as the 15th century and in 1457 the Scots parliament under James II banned the game along with soccer because it was distracting from military training for the wars with England. For modern fans of the game, the Hudson Valley and surrounding region offers a wide variety of golf
16
courses that are thoroughly above par. There are courses with spectacular mountain views, courses where experts can test their skill against natural obstacles and beginner courses that new converts to the game can sink their teeth into. Rick Remsnyder, who is the Tourism Director for Ulster County Tourism and an avid golfer, said the courses in the Hudson Valley region draw golfers from New York City and New Jersey because of their scenic, as well as the speed of play they allow and their affordable prices. “You’re going to pay less and you’re going to play a lot quicker. Our courses are usually not overly crowded so you can get around—in four and a half hours you can get in 18 holes,” he says, and quickly adds that in the golf world playing 18 holes in four and a half hours is fast.
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Above: Copake Country Club’s 10th Hole and clubhouse.
SCENIC PLAY Apple Greens Golf Course If an apple a day keeps the doctor away then a round of golf at Apple Greens Golf Course will do wonders for your health. The 27-hole championship golf course in Highland was made on the grounds of an old apple orchard. This familyowned-and-operated establishment was opened in 1995 and offers golfers a fun but challenging course with four teeing areas to choose from. The Restaurant at Apple Greens specializes in smokehouse barbecue. In addition to the old apple orchard scenery, on the course there are views of the Shawangunk Mountains in the distance. 161 South Street, Highland. 845-883-5500; www.applegreens.com Rondout Golf Club One of the most scenic courses in the Hudson Valley is the 3 and ½-star rated 18-hole Rondout Golf Club in Accord N.Y. The golf course hosts various county championships. John Deforest, the head golf pro at Rondout, said one of the main strengths of the course is the scenery. “It’s definitely one of the best views in the country. We’re surrounded by mountains on 360 degrees but we’re down in the valley so we’re not like a mountain course.” Deforest added that Rondout has “a challenging golf course but it’s also very playable and enjoyable for the average golfer as well.” Rondout is also home to a full restaurant and bar. Whitfield Road, Accord. 888-894-9455; www.rondoutgolfclub.com. Copake Country Club Copake Country Club’s 18-hole Golf Course is enveloped by the foothills of the Berkshire Mountains and is located on the shores of Copake Lake. The picturesque course is modeled after the country courses that dot the landscape of Ireland. In 2006 the golf course was in danger
of being sold to condominium developers but local lakeside resident Jon Urban bought the property. Urban had the aging club house renovated and turned it into a hip new bar and restaurant that features American cuisine and is popular with golfers and non golfers alike. 44 Golf Course Road, Copake Lake. 518-3254338; www.copakecountryclub.com.
Hudson Valley Resort and Spa The Golf Course at the Hudson Valley Resort winds through the Shawangunk Mountain Range and is an 18-hole, par 71, 6350-yard championship course, that offers something for golfers of all skill levels. There are rolling hills, flowing creeks, ponds and long greenways that are designed to put every part of your game to the test. If you’re tired from the game you can rest up in one of 275 rooms available at the resort and spa. 400 Granite Road, Kerhonkson.845-626-8888; www.hudsonvalleyresort.com.
KEEPING UP WITH THE JONESes Wiltwyck Golf Club It used to be said that the term golf was an acronym for “gentleman only ladies forbidden.” Although that is actually not true (historians believe the term golf originates from a Scottish mispronunciation of a medieval Dutch word, kolf or kolve which meant club) a boys club mentality did sometimes permeate the game. That’s no longer the case and today the game is a full fledged family affair. In Kingston, the Wiltwyck Golf Club prides itself in being one of the premier family oriented private clubs in the midHudson Valley. Founded in 1933, the club’s 18 hole course was designed by the famous course designer Robert Trent Jones. In addition to golf the club provides top quality pool, tennis and social activities for its members and their guests. 404 Steward Lane, Kingston. 845-331-0700; www.wiltwyck.org. SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 17
Above: Scenic Mohonk Golf Course / Photos by Jim Smith.
James Baird State Park Golf Course Located on farmland once owned by James Baird, a contractor and engineer whose company constructed the Lincoln Memorial, the 18-hole golf course and James Baird state park was also designed by Robert Trent Jones and opened in 1948. This scenic fairly flat course has a restaurant overlooking the course and a snack bar at the 1st and 10th holes. A favorite among skilled golfers the par 5, 13th hole is one of the most challenging in the Hudson Valley. Off Taconic State Parkway, 1 mile north of Rt. 55, Pleasant Valley. 845-473-1052
EXTRA COURSE WORK Mansion Ridge Golf Club Created by legendary golfer and world-renowned golf course architect Jack Nicklaus, Mansion Ridge is carved out of the forests and rolling hills of a 220-acre estate. It is the only Jack Nicklaus Signature Course open to the public in New York State. The 18-hole championship course features rock formations, extreme elevation changes, and spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. Designed to test shot-making skills, the layout challenges golfers to negotiate a variety of wetland areas and bunkers. 1292 Orange Turnpike, Monroe. 845-782-7888; www.mansionridgegc.com. New Paltz Golf Course The New Paltz Golf Course may only be nineholes but don’t let that fool you, says co-owner Tom O’Brien. “A lot of people think of nine-hole golf courses as what you call an executive course which are a lot of par threes and short holes. [Ours is] a full-size golf course. It’s really all you can handle. It’s a full size strong test of golf.” He adds, that golfers looking for a less challenging game can tee off from the shorter blue tee’s. 18
O’Brien is also the owner of HudsonValleyGolf.com, a website that works in conjunction with TeeTimeGolfPass.com and sells discounted pass books to golf courses throughout the Hudson Valley region and beyond. New Paltz is obviously one of the courses that offers discounts through the site but there are many others in the region and O’Brien says golfers can save between $10 and $50 “every time they tee off.” 215 Huguenot Street, New Paltz. 845-255-8282; www.newpaltzgolf.com.
OLD GEMS Dinsmore Golf Course This scenic 18-hole course offers a panoramic view of the beautiful Hudson River and Catskill Mountains. It is the third oldest golf course in the country. Built as a private 9-hole course in the 1890s, it was part of the estates of the Dinsmore, Hoyt and Mills families. The original course, which is now the south nine, was expanded to 18 holes in 1962. Route 9, Staatsburg. 845-889-4071 Mohonk Mountain House Another one of the country’s oldest golf courses is the Mohonk Golf Course at the Mohonk Mountain House which has celebrated 115 years of continuous use. Designed with a Scottish influence and set against a majestic 2,200acre backdrop the Mohonk Golf Course is a distinct Old World style course. Remsnyder, from Ulster County Tourism, said the Mohonk Golf course, “is a historic Scotch style golf course and it’s right up in the mountains in a spectacular location.” He adds, “I used to play there when I first moved to Ulster County, it’s a cute little course and you can’t find a better place to play golf than there.” 1000 Mountain Rest Road, New Paltz. 845-255-1000; www.mohonk.com. For more info on golf courses, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
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eat
TO GO,
PLEASE The Search for Great
Take-Out Food By Holly Tarson PHOTOS BY MICHELLE WILLIAMS
N
o matter who you are and what you do, at the end of the day you’ve gotta eat. Unless you or someone in your life has the time and inclination to prepare hot meals every day, chances are some of the time, or a lot of the time, that meal will be take-out. In the Hudson Valley the options are many. So, yes, you can hang up your apron. Imagine opening the refrigerator and finding it’s been stocked by your own personal chef. Chicken Marsala or Berkshire Pork Loin are plated and waiting to be eaten. A four-quinoa salad fills the bowl next to a decadent cauliflower gratin, pleasing both the angel and the devil on your shoulder. Could that be a pint of Jane’s Ice Cream beckoning from your freezer? It’s a beautiful dream. Though hiring a personal chef is a budgetbuster for most households, stopping at BistroTo-Go on Route 28 in Kingston isn’t. Good luck sneaking past the pastry counter filled with lemon curd cupcakes, cookies and éclairs. The chocolate mousse packs more world-rocking creaminess in a cup than should be legally allowed. Numerous entrees and sides mean you can pick up a differ20
ent dinner here every night of the week. You won’t be the only one. Grab a few pantry items, some fresh produce and a pint of frozen Italian Wedding Soup on your way out and you’ve got lunch for tomorrow. It’s delicious, fresh, locally sourced food prepared by talented chefs. You just have to put it in your fridge yourself. Main Course in New Paltz fills a similar personal chef niche and focuses on farm-to-table foods, sourcing locally and organically when they can. Choose from Paninis and Composed Salads (try Roasted Grape dressing for some tangy sweet creamy goodness) or treat yourself to a fully prepared three course meal featuring Vegetarian Lasagna with local goat cheese ricotta. Staples like roasted chickens and salmon are ready to grab and go. Toss in a bag of walnut brittle. It makes the drive home that much sweeter. Just down Main Street, Neko Sushi is hard to miss, and you wouldn’t want to. The three-page Take-Out menu is packed with everything you’d expect from a sushi restaurant and some eyecatching extras. Venture beyond California rolls. Try Japanese Pickled Radish or Ground Burdock.
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Opposite (clockwise from top left): Picking up a to-go order at Main Course; the speicals board at Main Course; the entrance archway at Neko Sushi; the counter at Karma Road; the sushi bar at Neko Sushi.
Or just make a meal of appetizers because when it comes to Shu Mai (steamed crab meat dumplings), who can eat just one? Take-out is not just for dinner, of course. Twisted Foods in Rosendale meets the needs of the hungry for breakfast and lunch and they wrap it all up in a pretzel roll. It’s like a bagel met a dinner roll and they got cozy with a pretzel. Topped with Salt or Garlic/Herb or Cajun/Lime or Everything, these nuggets of bready love are perfect vehicles for breakfast sandwiches (2 for 5 bucks!), house made cream cheeses and the ever-popular chicken salad. They make 80 pounds of it a week and still sell out. Hot dog lovers rejoice—newcomer to the menu is a pretzel roll shaped just for hot dogs. This charming shop with warm and welcoming people is worth a visit. Two restaurants in New Paltz stand out for their vegetarian fare. At Karma Road you’ll actually feel healthier just stepping inside the door. Maybe it’s the Eau de Fresh Juice in the air. The Black Bean and Rice Soup holds up as a meal in and of itself. But the array in the deli case, like Ginger Kale or BBQ Tempeh Stew, is hard to ignore. Rock Da Pasta is an amazing mash-up for vegans or vegetarians in search of comfort food. Some menu items are made with meat, but the meatfree ones are equally satisfying. Far from a garden variety Italian restaurant, here bar stool backs are electric guitars and most items can even be made gluten-free. A hands-down favorite is “Joplins Penne Rose,” with a vodka sauce that uses Southern Comfort instead. Now that’s comforting. Burritos. Tacos. Undergrads. It’s a no-brainer. Mexicali Blue is a clear favorite of the local college students. But this food has a fresh appeal that makes it a crowd pleaser for all ages. No freezers. No fryers. Over ten varieties of house-made hot sauces are blended daily. Sure, the garlic sauce is popular. But do yourself a favor and try the coconut. The sweetness strikes just the right chord with the heat of the chilies. Insider tip: the catfish taco is the star of the menu. Even though take-out food has come a long way since the days of cold pizza at your door, few foods inspire the camaraderie of sharing pizza with family and friends. La Bella Pizza Bistro has you covered. From Cheese and Pepperoni to Eggplant or Broccoli Rabe, there’s something for everyone. The San Giorgio is a gorgeous pie with bright green pesto drizzled over plum tomatoes and garlic, all on a whole grain crust. C’mon. Live a little. Stroll across the Walkway Over the Hudson and you’ll find Lola’s Café just under the stairs in Poughkeepsie. Acclaimed CIA chefs are in the kitchen packing flavor into every bite. Regulars insist you must try the chili. That is, of course, if you can pass up their famous Spicy Peanut Noodles. Open Monday through Friday, it’s a great way to perk up the workday. And if you don’t know about Rossi’s Deli in Poughkeepsie, you should. Just off the East exit of
the Mid-Hudson bridge, this Italian gem is tucked on a residential street corner. It’s a family affair. Mauro Rossi says, “every speck of food that is prepared at Rossi’s is done so by a Rossi.” How many varieties of Proscuitto do they have? Plenty. And cheese. Oh, the cheese. People rave (Rave!) about the sandwiches. Have Panini for lunch and bring home some Pastosa Ravioli with one of Rossi’s own frozen sauces for dinner. Hankering for something just across the Mediterranean? Check out El Ameer for Middle Eastern Cuisine. Between St. Francis Hospital and Route 9, it might be a little tricky to find, but it’s easy to remember. Fresh Tabouli, savory Shwarma, killer Kebabs. And the affordable price point makes El Ameer one for the regular rotation. Baba Ghannouj, anyone? An afternoon drive meandering the Taconic can leave a person peckish. Wild Hive Bakery & Café in Clinton Corners is a farm to fork wonder that’s worth the trip. The soups and pot pies in the freezer make for quick heating at home. And the rest of the menu is always available to go. Whatever you order, be sure to pick up a loaf (or two) of their phenomenal bread. They mill the flour themselves. How many bakeries can say that? Not to be forgotten is Babette’s Kitchen in Millbrook. Count on finding individual-sized meatloaf, their number one take-out item. Though French Lentil Salad isn’t far behind. Look for a Spring mélange of asparagus, sugar snaps and maybe even pea vines coming soon. And the Dirty Drunken Beef Tri-tip is a must-try just so you can say the name. It’s ‘dirty’ because the marinade includes soy and Worcestershire sauce, making it dark on the outside. The whiskey in the marinade makes it drunken. All together it’s simply delicious.
RESOURCES in this article Bistro-To-Go www.bluemountainbistro.com Main Course www.maincoursecatering.com Neko Sushi www.thenekosushi.com Twisted Foods 845-658-9121 Karma Road www.karmaroad.net Rock Da Pasta www.rockdapasta.com Mexicali Blue www.mexicali-blue.com La Bella Pizza Bistro www.labellapizzabistro.com Lola’s Café www.lolascafeandcatering.com Rossi’s Deli www.rossideli.com El Ameer www.elameer.com Wild Hive Bakery & Café www.wildhivefarm.com Babette’s Kitchen www.babetteskitchen.com For more info on area eateries, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 21
OUTDOORS
GREEN GRASS AND HIGH TIDE Exploring the Parks of the Mid-Hudson
By Lindsay Pietroluongo
H
ere you go: Winter hikers will argue that the best time to lace up your boots and hit a trail is once the leaves have fallen. If you’re like me, though, you prefer blooms to blizzards and do your best to stay in until the weather thaws. Now that the spring has rolled in again, so has my appetite for taking to the great outdoors. The Hudson Valley is not in short supply of leisurely strolls and ruthless treks.
ern Ulster County. The Gunks Mountain Ridge at Minnewaska is 2,000 feet above sea level and surrounded by rugged terrain. Wander across stream crossings, peer over cliffs and ledges, trample through hardwood forests and view waterfalls and clear lakes as you make your way across 25 miles of hiking footpaths. Route 44/55, Kerhonkson. Opens daily at 9 a.m. Closing times vary. Visit online at nysparks.com/ parks/127/details.aspx.
Home of FDR and the Vanderbilt Mansion The Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt is a national historic site. Ramble around 300 acres of grounds, gardens and trails. Book a guided tour of Springwood, FDR’s lifelong home. Easy paths near the Vanderbilt Mansion lead to the Italian Gardens, the perfect spot for photo ops when the flowers blossom. For a more ambitious walk, there’s a trail that wraps around the property, through the woods and ends with one serious uphill battle. The 10-mile Hyde Park Trail connects the Home of FDR with the Vanderbilt Mansion. It’s the first section of the Hudson Valley Greenway Trail. Home of FDR, 4097 Albany Post Road, Hyde Park. Open daily from sunrise to sunset. Visit online at www.nps.gov/hofr. Vanderbilt Mansion, 81 Vanderbilt Park Road, Hyde Park. Open daily from sunrise to sunset. Visit online at www.nps.gov/vama.
Mohonk Preserve Mohonk Preserve protects more than 7,000 acres of mountain ridges, forests, fields, streams and ponds. Traipse along one of several carriage roads or trails and access extra routes along the Shawangunk Mountain Ridge. Hikers of all levels will find a pathway they can handle at the Mohonk Preserve. The easiest loop is the 15-minute Shawngunk Sensory Trail. 3197 Route 44/55, Gardiner. Open daily from sunrise to one hour after sunset. Visit online at www.mohonkpreserve.org.
Minnewaska State Park Preserve Minnewaska State Park Preserve, along with Mohonk Preserve and Sam’s Point Preserve, is part of the Shawangunk Mountains in South22
Sam’s Point Preserve Sam’s Point Preserve is set on 5,400 acres atop the Gunks’ highest—and wildest—point. Naturalists will get a kick out of the 40 rare plant and animal species that can be detected in the area. From the parking lot, start on the three-mile Loop Road that circles Lake Maratanza. Hike through the mini forest of evergreen heaths, pitch pines and blueberries. Trails lead to Verkeerderkill Falls, High Point and Indian Rock. To access the more challenging routes, you’ll need a permit. Sam’s Point Road, Cragsmoor. Visit online at nynjtc. org/park/sams-point-dwarf-pine-ridge-preserve.
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Opposite: Lake Mohonk. Above (left to right): Walkway Over the Hudson, Vanderbilt Mansion, climbing in the Gunks.
Scenic Hudson Scenic Hudson oversees and enhances several parks in the Mid Hudson region to preserve them for the public. “Scenic Hudson pursues its campaign to Save the Land that Matters Most, realizing that preserving land provides the cornerstone of a sustainable Hudson Valley economy,” Jay Burgess, Director of Communications, told me. “Public parks are important to communities and the Hudson Valley region as a whole. The natural beauty of these places lifts people’s spirits and helps relieve stress. Trees and wetland areas in parks help clean our air and water, and the land sustains habitats that are crucial for wildlife.” All parks associated with Scenic Hudson are free to access and open year-round. Locations stretching across Greene, Columbia, Ulster, Dutchess, Orange, Putnam, Rockland and Westchester counties include Franny Reese State Park, Shaupeneak Ridge, the Walkway Over the Hudson State Historic Park, Poet’s Walk and the Esopus Meadow’s Preserve. Franny Reese State Park and the Esopus Meadows Preserve Franny Reese State Park takes up 250 acres and offers uncommon views of the Mid Hudson Bridge from rare vantage points. The Esopus Meadows Preserve, set on 93 acres, rises above Klyne Esopus Kill, stretches for two miles of woodland trails and has glimpses of the 1871 Esopus Lighthouse. Franny Reese State Park, Haviland Road, Highland. Open daily from dawn to dusk. Visit online at www.scenichudson.org/parks/frannyreese. Esopus Meadows Preserve, River Road, Esopus. Open daily from dawn to dusk. Visit online at www.scenichudson.org/parks/esopusmeadows. Poet’s Walk If you’re a writer or artist, you may get more work than play done when you visit Poet’s Walk. Created in the 1940s, the landscape is made up of several outdoor “rooms,” all of which are intended to evoke a different emotion. If you’re feeling blue,
head to the elation “room”; if you need inspiration for your horror novel, visit the foreboding “room”; and so on. Washington Irving came up with the idea for “Rip Van Winkle” while roaming around Poet’s Walk, so don’t ignore the muses. The Catskill Mountains are within view and guests can spend their time at the Overlook Pavilion or on the meadow trail. Ramble along the byway that leads through the woods, around a ravine and over the stone bridge. There are two miles of trails, all of which are either gravel or hard packed dirt. Settle into the benches at the Summer House to catch your breath or take in the vista. Don’t forget to pack your binoculars since the woods and fields are chock full of wildlife. Poet’s Walk is on a rotational mowing regime that’s intended to increase the diversity of birds, butterflies, bees and beetles. River Road, Red Hook. Open daily at 9 a.m. until 7:30 or 8:30 p.m., depending on the month. Visit online at www.scenichudson.org/parks/poetswalk.
Shaupeneak Ridge Shaupeneak Ridge’s 790 acres are part of the Marlboro Mountains in Ulster County. This is the ideal destination for avid hikers and nature lovers thanks to the coarse turf, wildflower grasslands and animal spottings. There are six miles of trails of differing difficulties and lengths. If you’re hiking with the family, make your way around water lily-adorned Louisa Pond. The adjacent wetland is full of birds and dragonflies. Beaver, deer, coyotes and turkeys wander around the grounds of Shaupeneak Ridge and visitors can enjoy panoramas of the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains. There’s also a waterfall, pond, forest and interesting rock formations to observe. The farmland at the base of the ridge is protected so that the scenery will remain unspoiled. Visit the Department of Environmental Conservation’s website for turkey hunting schedules. Poppletown Road, Esopus. Open daily from dawn to dusk. Visit online at www.scenichudson.org/parks/shaupeneakridge SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 23
lodging
LETS GET
SMALL HISTORIC INNS AND B&B’s By ANNE PYBURN
Opposite (clockwise from top left): Sitting porch of 26 Warren B&B in Hudson; Saugerties Lighthouse; Bel’s Inn in Kingston; the porch of Bel’s Inn; 1850 House and Tavern in Rosendale; a bedroom at 26 Warren B&B.
the the 1890s that never were—an 1890s of 48inch flat screens, Jacuzzis and WiFi. To fit the place out, Smythe spent the next several years immersed in the world of antiques; today, having been up and running for almost three decades, he takes pride in “the most amazing breakfast ong before this area had anything you’ll ever have, antique beds, handmade matresembling a Grand Hotel, we had tresses and an amazing warmth. Justine and I inns. Even before that, there existed are both in our element—she did her graduate hosts and hostesses—good people studies in hospitality in Paris and London—and who would make available an extra room, we love what we do. It’s about the perfect amea hayloft, or a corner of the longhouse to a nity at the right moment—being perfectly atweary wayfarer. Maybe that’s the reason that tentive and not the least little bit intrusive.” the very idea of small-scale lodging, despite If you’d like your Victoriana urban, check the enormous sophistication with which it is out Bel’s Inn in Kingston’s Rondout district. practiced and marketed, evokes a faint whiff of “We’re surrounded by art galleries and churchhorse and buggy travel. es, stained glass windows that glow at night, In the Hudson Valley, awash as it is in some and you can walk to the river and nightlife,” says of the earliest and liveliest dramas of the creation Bel Rodriguez, who used to run a classic, homey of the United States, this whiff strengthens to beManhattan pub. “It’s details—wherever your eye come an enticing aroma, a delicious dinner-scent falls, there’s something lovely, a chandelier or a wafting from the oven of local creativity to the beautiful bedspread. Whatever you touch feels relaxation-starved senses of city folk and gourclean and good. You’ll have a midnight snack on mands from around the your pillow and a wonderglobe. So well loved is our ful breakfast next morn“It’s details— architectural history that ing. Some people like to wherever your Tom and Patti Habersaat mingle, others want to eye falls, there’s of Stone Ridge built their shut the door and pretend family dream home in meit’s their house, and either something lovely, ticulous Victorian style way it’s exquisite—that’s a chandelier or in 1990; so well loved are what keeps people from a beautiful bedthe joys of hospitality that all over the world coming spread. Whatever when the family nest empback.” tied, they chose to open it Further north, deepyou touch feels as the Victorian Knoll B&B. er into the mists of time, clean and good. “Like sleeping in a postyou can find yet another —Bel rodriguez, BEL’S INN card,” an enchanted visitor urban flavor at 26 Warren signed the guest book. in Hudson. The 1810 FedAfter a period of enormous growth in the eral brick building was once inhabited by paintlate 20th century, the bed-and-breakfast scene er Edward Avedisian; your present-day hosts around here has matured deliciously indeed, and David Brown and Erika Laurion, have restored if you have an appetite for a stay in an authenit to a pristine yet unfussy glory that gets rave tic great old house that oozes charm and charreviews. “Not your typical frou-frou country inn acter from every pore, welcome to the smorgaswith lace curtains. The house is funky, hip and bord. The story of Smythe House and its flagship artsy,” explains a satisfied guest named Jennifer. Barclay Heights B&B is not exactly typical, beThe visions are as fresh as the buildings are cause there is really no such thing as typical; typihistoric. Take the 1850 House and Tavern in cal is for chain motels. But the Barclay Heights Rosendale’s former Astoria Hotel, for example. could perhaps be considered emblematic. Not, strictly speaking, a B&B—owner Mike RuIt felt for a while, says David Smythe, as ger refers guests to neighboring establishments though he would be living in a construction site for gourmet eating and live entertainment, alfor all eternity. The 1890 shingle-style Victorithough there is a fine pub—this boutique inn an had been empty for ten years; the roof and with its custom linens and canal backdrop pays sheathing needed serious TLC. Some would homage to history with vast black-and-white have seen a teardown; Smythe, a widower with photos of Rosendale. It’s older than the Civil two tiny boys and newly minted teaching chef War and newly reborn—it’s Hudson Valley miat the Culinary Institute, saw solid oak timbers cro-hospitality. and mountain views. “The form and style just The common thread is a gracious willingsaid B&B,” he says. “I thought so immediately.” ness to please. If one establishment can’t offer Getting the project started, he enlisted his you the exact ambience you seek, they’ll likely master-craftsman father. Twelve years later, his tell you who can. “There’s a knack to it—things half-grown sons helped him put the finishing are clean and sweet-smelling and excellent qualtouches on a reno meant to transport visitors ity, and I do whatever my guests need to make
L
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 25
Above: The sitting room at the Olde Rhinebeck Inn
their experience a delight,” says Ellen Mann, innkeeper at River Hill in Milton, where the wraparound porch overlooks the Hudson River and you’re minutes from the Walkway. “I’ve lived here for 70 years; there’s not much I don’t know about how to enjoy the area. And I love people. My return guests call and say, ‘Is my room free?’ and I know which one. I love listening to people from all over the world swapping their Hudson Valley adventure stories around the breakfast table for an hour over fresh local fruit—they head out to explore some more and then make it home for afternoon tea on the porch.” If you prefer your history Colonial-era, we’ve got plenty. Explore the east side of the Hudson from the comfort of the Olde Rhinebeck, a 1745 building that Forbes has called one of the 10 best in the country. You’ll find imported toiletries and plush robes to snuggle into, satellite TV to watch under hand-hewn chestnut beams after an evening’s fishing in the spring-fed stocked pond. Hurley is famed for stone houses, and one, the Cornelis Kool house, has become The Stone House Bed and Breakfast. Believed to be the oldest house in New York that you can actually stay in, the early 18th-century gem retains its fieldstone walls, massive beams and other period touches, whilst offering Wi-Fi, air conditioning and an easy walk to the Esopus Creek. Nearby in High Falls, you’ll find the Captain Schoonmaker Bed and Breakfast, named for the Revolutionary War hero who built this lovely home in 1760; there are intriguing legends about his ghost. Other aspects of the place are equally epic and easier to verify: the rushing trout stream, the candlelight breakfasts of pumpkin pancakes with cranberry butter or individual brie-and-herb souffles served on antique china. A slice of nautical history can be lived in a stay at the Saugerties Lighthouse, renovated into a B&B that can only be reached by boat or by a half-mile walk. The lighthouse is still a 26
working navigational aid, as it has been since 1869; its incarnation as a B&B was so lovingly done that it earned a mention as one of eight “most charming” historic renovations in Conde Nast Traveler. Amenities vary. If you like your relaxation hypoallergenic or vegan or carnivorous, kid-free or family-friendly, if you want to forget television was ever invented or crave a giant flat screen, ask around and you’ll find your bliss-spot. The one absolute standard is the kind of TLC a great concierge service can provide: suggested itineraries, tips on fulfillment of your every whim, favorite treats noted and remembered. It is, after all, a labor of love. “People get here looking a bit exhausted and you can see the difference after a day or two—they’re glowing. People show up as lovers and leave engaged,” says David Smythe. “Some people loathe their work. I’m at my happiest dealing with food and people—crafting custom memories.”
RESOURCES in this article 26 Warren B&B www.26warren.com 1850 House and Tavern www.the1850house.com Barclay Heights B&B www.smythehouse.com Bel’s Inn www.belsinn.webs.com Captain Schoonmaker B&B www.captainschoonmakers.com Olde Rhinebeck Inn www.rhinebeckinn.com Saugerties Lighthouse www.saugertieslighthouse.com Stone House B&B www.hurleystonehouse.com Victorian Knoll B&B www.victorianknoll.com For more info on local accommodations, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
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SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 27
ITINERARY
36 HOURS IN NEW PALTZ By Edna Welthorpe
U
lster County is a land of delightful contrasts: the old and the new, the hip and the traditional, the sleepy and the exciting coexist peaceably side by side. Nowhere is this dynamic more evident than in the town of New Paltz, just off the New York State Thruway exit. This college town is an all-purpose playground for the young who attend SUNY New Paltz, but is also a cultural, historic and gastronomical magnet for people of any age. (Small wonder that many college grads decided to stay and build lives alongside the multi-generation families of the area, continually infusing this evolving area with new blood.) A mere 36 hours in New Paltz offers enough points of interest to satisfy the adventurous weekender—and enough variety to entice people for a return visit. Don’t have a car? New Paltz is accessible by public transportation from Manhattan and compact enough to navigate easily and casually by foot, ensuring numerous street encounters with friendly local residents.
FRIDAY Whether you’ve arrived by car or Adirondacks Trailways bus (800-776-7548), New Paltz will welcome you. Check into a variety of area lodgings. For chic country comfort, Moondance Ridge Bed & Breakfast (55 Shivertown Road, 845-255-4161, www.moondanceridge.com) or The Inn at Orchard Heights (20 Church Street, 845-255-6792, www.innatorchardheights.com). Modest budgets will favor Super 8 Motel, 7 Terwilliger Lane, 845255-8865, 87 Motel (403 Main Street, 845-255-9220) or the fun and funky New Paltz Hostel (145 Main Street, 845-255-6676, www.newpaltzhostel.com). Friday afternoons, weekend excitement is already in the air, as college students crowd the many pubs along Main Street. Follow regulars to P&G’s Restaurant, 91 Main Street, 845255-6161 or McGillicuddy’s (84 Main Street, 845-256-9289, www.cuddysny.com). If you prefer high-quality suds, The Gilded Otter Brewing Company (3 Main Street, 845-256-1700, www. gildedotter.com) makes microbrews while Bacchus (4 South Chestnut Street, 845-255-8636, www.bacchusnewpaltz.com) offers 400-plus different bottled beers. If you crave something other than pub food for dinner, consider local bistros. Yanni Restaurant (51 Main Street, 845-256-0988, www.yannirestaurantcafe.com) offers authentic Greek cui28
enough points of interest to satisfy the adventurous weekender—and enough variety to entice people for a return visit. sine at modest prices plus live Grecian music. Neko Sushi & Hibachi (49 Main Street, 845255-0162, thenekosushi.com) serves Asian fare. La Bella Pizza Bistro (194 Main Street, 845255-2633, www.labellapizzabistro.com) serves organic and healthy Italian cuisine. If you seek local characters and basic meals, try Plaza Diner, 27 New Paltz Plaza, 845-255-1030 or Genesis Restaurant Diner, 401 Main Street, 845-255-5075. Wind up the evening with dancing at Joe’s East West, 254 Main Street, 845-255-9727 or wind down at the many area coffee shops or watering holes.
SATURDAY Early birds will thrill to the sun rising over the Shawangunk Mountain Ridge (known to locals and veteran climbers as “The Gunks”). Before your morning jog along rail trails, fuel up with a freshly squeezed organic juice or healthy meal at Karma Road (11 Main Street, 845-255-1099, www.karmaroad.net). If your accommodations don’t offer breakfast, New Paltz has many destinations for traditional, stick-to-your-ribs fare. Fair warning: they crowd up early. Consider The Bakery (13 North Front Street, 845-255-8840, www.ilovethebakery. com) or Main Street Bistro (59 Main Street, 845255-7766, www.mainstreetbistro.com). To walk off the big meal, amble along the Walkill Valley Rail Trail (108 Main Street, 845255-2761, www.gorailtrail.org) or drive over to the Mohonk Preserve, (3197 Rte 44 55, in nearby Gardiner, 845-255-0919, www.mohonkpreserve. org) which offers 7,000 acres of the glorious Gunks for hiking, cross-country skiing, rock climbing and horseback riding. Rent a bicycle for sightseeing at The Bicycle Depot (13 North Front Street, 845-255-1770, www.bicycledepot.com). For scenery from a unique vantage point, Skydive The Ranch (55 Sand Hill Road, Gardiner,
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Come evening, treat yourself to one of the upscale bistros in the area, offering eclectic cuisines and a full list of libations. The newly opened A Tavola (46 Main Street, 845-255-1426, www.atavolany. com) offers Italian fusion dishes with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. 36 Main (36 Main Street, 845-255-3636, www.36main.com) has an extensive wine bar to complement tasty dishes. Main Course (175 Main Street, 845-255-2600, www.maincoursecatering.com) emphasizes hearty farm-to-table fare as does Harvest Café in Water Street Market (10 Main St # 327, 845-255-4205). Suruchi Indian Restaurant (5 Church Street, 845255-2772, www.suruchiindian.com) serves unique dishes utilizing the dosa, a South Indian crepe. Throughout the year, there are theatre productions in the area, offered by SUNY New Paltz, local high schools or community theatre groups.
SUNDAY
Michelle Willams Above (top to bottom): Beer sampler at The Guilded Otter; hiking at the Mohonk Preserve; Water Street Market.
845-255-4033, www.skydivetheranch.com) offers solo and accompanied skydiving. Such excursions are especially good in the autumn, when the area is ablaze with foliage. If you’re less adventurous but just as ravenous for local color, pop into the many shops throughout town. Upscale house wares live at Cocoon at Home (67 Main Street, 845-255-6862, www.cocoonathome.com). For one-of-a-kind handcrafted items by local artisans, visit Handmade and More (6 North Front Street, 845-255-0625, www. handmadeandmore.com). Offbeat gifts are found at Manny’s Art Supplies (83 Main Street, 845255-9902, www.mannysart.com) and Dedrick’s Pharmacy and Gifts (190 Main Street, 845-2550310, www.dedrickspharmacyandgifts.com). Still prefer vinyl records and CDs over downloads? There are racks of vintage used and new releases at Rhino Records (3 Church Street, 845-255-0230, www.rhinonewpaltz.com). New Paltz always offers seasonal events for visitors, including art shows, a farmer’s market, the Ulster County Fair (www.ulstercountyfair. com) July 31-August 5, or the annual New Paltz Regatta (www.newpaltzny.net/regatta) in May, when local artists create combination boats-art pieces to sail down Walllkill River.
An elegant country brunch at The Village Tearoom (10 Plattekill Avenue, 845-255-3434, www.thevillagetearoom.com) offers Frenchand English-inspired dishes and delectable onpremises baked goods. Get lost in the many stores at Water Street Market (10 Main Street, 845-255-1403, www.waterstreetmarket.com). Among them: Antiques Barn, Paws of Distinction for upscale pet food and toys, The Cheese Plate, Heavenly Scents, Gray Owl Gallery, Himalayan Art and local landscape photography at G. Steve Jordan Gallery (www. mohonkimages.com). Take a well-deserved rest after shopping with coffee or tea at Mudd Puddle Café (www.muddpuddlecoffee.com). Or take a walk back in time on Historic Huguenot Street, a National Landmark Historic District (18 Broadhead Avenue, 845-255-1660, www.huguenotstreet.org). Here, Huguenot refugees settled in the early 1700s, and some of their sturdy stone houses remain standing with depictions of daily life almost four centuries ago. For a perfect, low-impact Sunday experience, visit the SUNY New Paltz campus’s Samuel Dorsky Museum of Art (1 Hawk Drive, 845-257-3844, www.newpaltz.edu/museum). It features traveling exhibitions in all art media, plus works from its permanent collection. As you prepare to leave New Paltz, consider some souvenirs to bring home. Dress like a SUNY student with tie-dye t-shirts, bandanas, earrings, necklaces and accessories like incense and oils from Groovy Blueberry (57 Main Street or 1 Water Street, 845-256-0873, www. groovyblueberry.com). And if you want to bring home a taste of New Paltz, September and October are apple-picking months. At other times, get locally sourced fruits, vegetables and prepared foods at the farm stands at Apple Hill Farm (124 State Route 32 South, 845-255-1605, www.applehillfarm.com) or Wallkill View Farm Market (15 State Route 299 West, 845-255-8050, www.wallkillviewfarmmarket.com). For more info on what to do in New Paltz, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 29
SPRING SUMMER
EVENTS By MOLLY LINDSAY
Above: Carbon Leaf perform on the main stage at Mountain Jam, held at Hunter Mountain.
Woodstock-New Paltz Arts and Crafts Fair Memorial Day Weekend and Labor Day Weekend To kick off and wrap up the summer season, over 300 artisans and craftspeople from across the nation gather to display their works. There will be a juried exhibition of artists selected through a pre-fair competition. Jewelry pieces, ceramics, iron sculptures, and hand-wovens are just a few varieties of thousands that will be shown at each fair. Furniture and architectural crafts, handcrafted specialty foods, holistic healthcare products, craft supplies, and a children’s tent will also be featured. Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz. Quailhollow.com Mountain Jam May 31-June 3 The green slopes of the Catskill peaks at Hunter Mountain set the atmosphere for the annual four-day Mountain Jam music festival. For eight years, the four-stages have featured both bigname acts as well as lesser known artists. This year’s headliners include Steve Winwood, Gov’t Mule, Michael Franti and Spearhead, The Roots, and Ben Folds Five. Mountainjam.com 30
Opus 40 June 1-October 1 Harvey Fite spent 37 years sculpting an abandoned blue limestone quarry in the small hamlet of High Woods in Saugerties into a series of stone ramps, pedestals, and platforms covering 6.5 acres known as Opus 40. This season celebrates the 50th anniversary of the raising of the monolith. This particular project was started and completed in the summer of 1961. There’s also an exhibition of photographs depicting High Woods as it was in Harvey and Barbara Fite’s day, a talk with D. J. Stern, the granddaughter of legendary High Woods storekeeper Henry Wilgus, and square dancing—just like at Wilgus’ store back in the day. Opus40.org. Summer Series at Water Street Market June through September Located at the base of Main Street in New Paltz, the Water Street Market offers a bounty of free events in their summer-long series. Beginning June 14 through August 30, every Thursday at 7 pm there is a free live band with music from rock to bluegrass to pop, free movies are projected on an outside screen at the Water Street Cinema on Mondays at dusk from June 11 through August 27. Children’s story hour is
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Above: Harvey Fite’s massive stone sculptural installation, Opus 40, turns 50 years this year.
Mondays 10:30 to 11am, and bring along your pup to Yappy Hour, Fridays, 6-8 pm. Waterstreetmarket.com.
Antique National Motorcycle Meet & Antique Machinery Show June 8 and 9 Every year the Northeastern Chapters’ Coalition Antique Motorcycle Club of America hosts the Antique National Motorcycle Meet and Antique Machinery Show. Over 400 running motorcycles will be exhibited in the motorcycle timeline comprised of antique bikes starting from 1976 and, in past showings, dating back to the late 1890s. All brands and makes of antique bikes will be on display. The Century Museum and Collectors Association will be hosting an antique machinery and tractor show and the Mid Hudson Chapter of the Antique Truck Club of America will display an antique truck show. Dutchess County Fairgrounds. Rhinebecknationalmeet.com Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome June 9-October 14 The Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome presents one of the largest collections of antique aviation in the world, with aeroplanes, automobiles, motorcycles, and more dating from 1900 to 1935. From the golden years of aviation, there are four museum buildings displaying aircrafts from the Pioneer Era, World War I, and the Lindbergh/Barnstorming era. The first airshow weekend of the
season kicks off June 9. On Saturdays and Sundays, the gates open and biplane rides begin at 10 am, the air show starts at 2 pm and ends at 4 pm. The museum is open Monday through Friday from 10 am-5 pm, with Saturdays and Sundays until 5:30 pm. Treat your dad to the Fathers’ Day Special Weekend June 16, 17 with admission and a biplane ride for $85. Oldrhinebeck.org.
Stone Ridge, New Paltz, and Woodstock Library Fairs The annual library fairs of Stone Ridge, New Paltz, and Woodstock have become a town staple in each village. Celebrating its 66th year, the Stone Ridge library fair has continued to be a great success with its book sale, musical entertainment, home-made baked goods, and food from local farms. June 9, 10am-3pm. At the Elting Memorial Library, there is a large collection of books for sale along with crafts, toys and games, plants, antiques, art, and of course delicious food. A raffle and silent auction to feature a wide variety of items from bikes to wine. July 14-15, 9am-4pm with an early bird book sale Saturday at 8am. The Woodstock Library Fair is the town’s oldest and largest celebration. The 81st annual fair will feature a used book sale, live music, summertime food favorites hot off the grill, the white elephant tent, which houses a bargain hunter’s dream with antiques and vintage collectables, a raffle, an exhibitor’s tent full of crafts and artwork, and children’s activities including face painting and hat making. July 28, 10am-5pm. SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 31
Photo by Jean-Pierre Maurin
Above (top to bottom): Bethel Woods Center for the Performing Arts; Bard Summerscape presents Campagnie Fetes Galantes, at the Richard B. Fisher Center for the Performing Arts this summer.
Bethel Woods Center for Performing Arts June 13-August 26 At the site of the 1969 Woodstock festival where some 400,000 got down in the mud for three days of peace, love, and rock and roll, now stands the Bethel Woods Center for the performing arts. Their 2012 summer concert series kicks off with Lady Antebellum’s performance on June 13. Also featured is Ringo Starr and his All Star Band, June 16, The Beach Boys on their 50th anniversary tour, June 17, Dave Matthews Band, June 30, New York Philharmonic, July 7, and Furthur July 15. Bethelwoodscenter.org Crafts at Rhinebeck June 21 and 23 In the year of 1972, a group of tie-dye clad Vermont artists traveled to Rhinebeck in the hopes of holding an arts and crafts fair on the town’s fairgrounds. After a bit of convincing, the skeptical fair manager allowed the inaugural show to 32
be put on. Today, the annual contemporary exhibit is still going strong, with a number of artisans who work from various mediums. Craft and art pieces will be exhibited including metals, fiber works, photography, wood carvings, leather products, and ceramics, along with gourmet food, wine, and chocolatiers. Dutchess County Fairgrounds. www.craftsatrhinebeck.com.
Powerhouse Theater at Vassar June 22-July 29 Powerhouse Theater is a collaboration between New York Stage and Film and Vassar College, which strives to enrich the development of both emerging and established performers. The eightweek summer season at Vassar features over 20 different projects including plays, musicals, and screenplays presented as readings, workshops, and fully staged productions. More than 250 professional artists and theater students participate along with 40 to 50 theater students from around the world. Powerhouse.vassar.edu.
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Maverick Concerts June 30-September 16 Tucked in the unspoiled woods of Woodstock, is the rustic, wooden, tree house-like Maverick Concert Hall. Built in 1916 by Hervey White, this venue hosts a variety of performers, focusing mainly on classical forms of music and jazz. This summer season, Maverick celebrates Claude Debussy, Maurice Ravel, and Philip Glass with a Tour De France. Maverick welcomes a theatrical performance with Actors & Writers, June 30, the 2012 Woodstock Beat with Peter Schickele—a benefit for the Woodstock Byrdcliffe Guild, July 21, and Zuill Bailey, July 29, among many others. www.maverickconcerts.org. Bard SummerScape 2012 July 6-August 19 The Wall Street Journal considers the Bard SummerScape “one of the most intellectually stimulating of all American summer festivals and frequently is one of the most musically satisfying.” The 2012 Bard SummerScape presents seven weeks of opera, music, theater, dance, films, and cabaret. This year will celebrate the work of French composer Camille Saint-Saëns with two weekends devoted to his masterworks, including his Third Symphony. The festival will feature Saint-Saëns’s contemporary Emmanuel Chabrier’s opera,“The King in Spite of Himself ”, the dance troupe Compagnie fêtes galantes who combines contemporary and baroque aspects, Molière’s final play “The Imaginary Invalid” directed by Erica Schmidt, ten highly celebrated films, and an array of lively cabaret acts in Bard’s Spiegeltent. Fishercenter.bard.edu/summerscape. Secret Gardens Tour July 9 Ever wonder what it would be like to have an inside look at some of the best kept and unique “secret” gardens of the Hudson Valley? A few can be found right in the heart Kingston and the Secret Gardens Tour holds the key to unlock these hidden gems. The tour which, incorporates walking and driving will visit seven gardens in Kingston. Five urban gardens in the stockade area will be shown as well as two other gardens hidden within Kingston. Proceeds from the tour benefit the Boys & Girls Club with a portion going to the Friends of Historic Kingston, who helped locate most of the gardens. www.village.saugerties.ny.us. Eugene Ludins: An American Fantasist Through July 12 Eugene Ludins was a Woodstock painter and resident at the Maverick colony from 1929 until his death in 1996. His 70-year career is comprised of realistic and metaphorical landscapes and portraits. The exhibition includes sixty paintings, thirty drawings, pieces from his sketch-
books, photographs, and memorabilia, as well as two sculptures by Ludin’s wife, sculptor Hannah Small. www.newpaltz.edu/museum.
Hurley Stone House Day July 12 Celebrate Hurley’s 350th anniversary by visiting some of America’s oldest stone houses. Several 200 to 300-year-old privately owned homes will be open for public viewing. There will also be a 1777 Ulster Militia Encampment, guides in colonial attire, crafts, and a library fair with a books and collectables sale. www.stonehouseday.org. Hudson Valley Chalk Art Festival July 20-22 Remember as a child when the pavement was your canvas? The first ever Hudson Valley Chalk Art Festival at Water Street Market will take you back. For three days, a dozen professional chalk artists from around the country will draw breathtaking illustrations and unreal 3-D images alongside Hudson Valley artists. In addition, there will be live bands and an open drawing area for kids of all ages. www.waterstreetmarket/chalkfestival. Ulster County Fair July 31 through August 5 For 125 years, the Ulster County Fair has been dazzling families from the Hudson Valley and beyond. Agriculturally centered, the fair will have a petting zoo, racing pigs, western and english style horse shows, a vegetable and fruit exhibit, and master gardening demo. Fireworks, live music, fried dough, and of course, rides will also entertain. Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz. www.ulstercountyfair.com Renaissance Faire August 4-September 24 Take a jaunt into the world of Elizabethan England right in the Hudson Valley. Taste a boar sandwich, have your palm read by a gypsy, witness a true historic joust alongside the Queen and her court, dance around the maypole, or try your hand at axe throwing. With something for the whole family, the possibilities for an authentic English Renaissance adventure are endless. The 35th New York Renaissance fair runs from August 4 through September 24. Tuxedo. www.renfair.com/ny. PianoSummer at New Paltz July 14-August 3 For 18 years, PianoSummer Institute and Festival at New Paltz has attracted students from around the world to learn under master pianist and teacher Vladimir Feltsman. From mid July through early August, festival concerts, master classes, and recitals will be open for public attendance. www.newpaltz.edu/piano. SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 33
Photos by Teresa Horgan
Omega Institute: The Art of PeAce and Happiness August 10-17 Find a little piece of happiness. This 7-day meditation retreat with Rupert Spira, will explore old habits of thinking, feeling, acting, and relating to understand the truest self through practices of silent meditation, guided meditation, and engaged conversation. Spira’s wife will facilitate a yoga session each morning. www.eomega.org. Dia: Beacon: Opus + One the Work of Jean-Luc Moulène Open through December 31, 2012 The Opus + One exhibition at Dia: Beacon is comprised of objects and images created over the past two decades created by Parisbased artist Jean-Luc Mouldène. There are over thirty-five objects from the ongoing series Opus (1995-present) along with works from his photographic essay La Vigie (20042011). Moulène creates both handmade and industrially manufactured three-dimensional forms using a combination of natural and manufactured materials including bronze, cardboard, cement, fiberglass, and wood, among others. www.diacenter.org.
Taste of New Paltz Preview September 16 This year Taste of New Paltz will celebrate 22 years of taste bud enticement. At this annual festival, food is the main event. Restaurants from the surrounding area prepare their specialties and sell taste-size portions of their signature dishes. Hudson Valley farmers, wineries, art and handicraft vendors, and sustainable educators also participate in this food-lover’s paradise. Ulster County Fairgrounds. www.newpaltzchamber.org.
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AIRPORTS
Benedictine Hospital 105 Mary’s Avenue, Kingston 845-338-2500
Albany International Airport (ALB) Albany 518-242-2200; 518-242-2299
Ellenville Regional Hospital Route 209, Ellenville 845-647-6400
Stewart International Airport (SWF) Newburgh 845-564-2100
Kingston Hospital 396 Broadway, Kingston 845-331-3131
RADIO STATIONS
Northern Dutchess Hospital 6511 Springbrook Avenue, Rhinebeck 845-876-3011 St. Francis Hospital & Health Centers 241 North Road, Poughkeepsie 845-483-5000 St. Luke’s Cornwall Hospital 70 Dubois Street, Newburgh 845-561-4400 19 Laurel Avenue, Cornwall 845-534-7711 Vassar Brothers Medical Center 45 Reade Place, Poughkeepsie 845-454-8500
TRAINS Amtrak Stations: Hudson, Rhinecliff, Poughkeepsie 800-872-7245 Metro-North Railroad Stations: Poughkeepsie, New Hamburg, Beacon, Breakneck Ridge, Cold Spring, Garrison 800-METRO-INFO
BUSES Adirondack Trailways 800-858-8555 Dutchess County Loop Bus System 845-485-4690 Pine Hill Trailways 800-776-7548 Ulster County Area Transit (UCAT) New Paltz Loop; Ulster-Poughkeepsie Link 845-340-3333
TAXIS Lee’s Taxi Shuttling Service 845-255-2870 Joey’s Taxi & Transportation Company 845-255-8294; 845-691-5639
Clear Channel Radio of the Hudson Valley 92.1 Lite FM, soft adult contemporary Star 93.3, hot adult contemporary Cruisin’ 93.5, oldies 96.1 Kiss FM, contemporary hit radio 98.5 Lite FM, soft adult contemporary 107.3 / 99.3 WRWD, country 1230 AM WHUC, adult standards 1370 AM WELG, adult standards 1450 AM WKIP, news talk Cumulus Broadcasting 101.5 WPDH, classic rock Mix 97.7 WCZX, adult contemporary 92.7 / 96.9 WRRV, alternative rock 94.3 / 97.3 WKXP / WZAD The Wolf, country 1490 AM WKNY, adult contemporary 1340/ 1390 AM Radio Disney, kid-friendly WAMC: Northeast Public Radio 90.3 FM Albany 103.9 FM Beacon 96.5 FM Ellenville 102.1 FM Highland 97.1 FM Hudson 90.9 FM Kingston 107.7 FM Newburgh WDST Radio Woodstock World Class Rock, contemporary alternative, reggae, acoustic 100.1 FM Woodstock 106.5 FM Beacon 102.3 FM Newburgh 106.3 FM Poughkeepsie WKZE: Musical Diversity Americana, blues, roots, world music 98.1 FM
TOURISM INFORMATION Columbia County Tourism 401 State Street, Hudson 800-724-1846 Dutchess County Tourism Ste. Q-17, 3 Neptune Road, Poughkeepsie 800-445-3131 Greene County Tourism 700 Route 23B, Leeds 518-943-3223
New Paltz Taxi, Inc. 845-255-1550
Orange County Tourism 124 Main Street, Goshen 845-615-3860
Yellow Cab Albany 518-434-2222 Poughkeepsie 845-471-1100
Ulster County Tourism 10 Westbrook Lane, Kingston 800-342-5826 SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2012 35
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SOMERSET 36 WWW.NEWPALTZCHAMBER.ORG HUNTERDON
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THE NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
A “hotbed of intellectual and aesthetic adventure.” — New York Times
july 6 – august 19,
BARDSUMMERSCAPE 2012
Bard SummerScape 2012 presents seven weeks of opera, music, theater, dance, films, and cabaret. The season’s focal point is the 23rd annual Bard Music Festival, which this year celebrates the French composer Camille Saint-Saëns, whose remarkable career shaped not only the history of music, but also the ways in which that history was transmitted and communicated to the public. SummerScape takes place in the extraordinary Richard B. Fisher Center for the Performing Arts and other venues on Bard College’s stunning Mid-Hudson Valley campus. Opera
THE KING IN SPITE OF HIMSELF (Le roi malgré lui)
Music by Emmanuel Chabrier Libretto by Emile de Najac and Paul Burani American Symphony Orchestra Conducted by Leon Botstein Directed by Thaddeus Strassberger Set design by Kevin Knight A brilliant opéra-comique scored by a master of harmony sosnoff theater July 27 – August 5 Dance
COMPAGNIE FÊTES GALANTES
Choreography by Béatrice Massin Taking baroque dance into the 21st century sosnoff theater July 6 – 8 Theater
THE IMAGINARY INVALID (Le malade imaginaire)
By Molière Directed by Erica Schmidt The last play by a comic master theater two July 13 –22
Bard Music Festival
Twenty-third Season
SAINT-SAËNS AND HIS WORLD
Two weekends of concerts, panels, and other events bring the musical world of French composer Camille Saint-Saëns vividly to life. Weekend One Paris and the Culture of Cosmopolitanism Weekend Two Confronting Modernism August 10–12 and 17–19 Film Festival
FRANCE AND THE COLONIAL IMAGINATION
The legacy of French rule in Africa and Southeast Asia Thursdays and Sundays, July 12 – August 12 Spiegeltent
CABARET and FAMILY FARE
Cabaret, music, fine dining, and more July 6 – August 19
Tickets and information:
845-758-7900 fishercenter.bard.edu Sign up now for the Fisher Center e-newsletter. Emembers receive special offers, including discounts, throughout the season. Text “FISHERCENTER” to 22828 or e-mail fishercenter@bard.edu to sign up.
Annandale-on-Hudson, NY
Photo: ©Scott Barrow