S
feast
Shucking Shells, Shaking Hands and Clinking
to Savannah to take the helm of Perry Lane Hotel’s collection of restaurants. Travel broadens our thoughts exponentially and it shows in his delivery. Because he’s been at Perry Lane Hotel even before there was an actual lane running between the two 5-story structures, Wilson got busy building relationships with area producers. “When you’re in construction phase with a lot of office and paperwork, the real fun is going out and visiting the farms and developing
Glasses with Chef Andrew Wilson of Emporium
those relationships. That was one of THE highlights. And, of
Kitchen and Wine Market, A Part of the Perry
pliers are from Charleston to Savannah. So, I had to make new
Lane Hotel Luxury Collection. Written by Melissa Corbin
course, ninety minutes makes a big difference in who your supfriends with new producers,” he says. There are actually three restaurants at Perry Lane Hotel. And, its Wilson’s attention to relationships that makes the menus read like a Who’s Who of Savannah farmers–– and fisherman, for that matter. “I love Cane
What Charleston has in common with Napa, the same could
Water Farm, Better Fresh Farms and Ancil Jacques of Swampy
be said for Savannah with Sonoma when it comes to the lifestyle
Apple Seed Mushrooms. Boy, he’s a fun guy who knows about
and culture of its people. On a recent trip to Savannah, Georgia,
fungi. I use Billy’s Botanicals. But, Billy also gets us shrimp be-
the fine folks at Perry Lane Hotel rolled out their red carpet. Ex-
cause his brother is a shrimper,” Wilson goes on and on about all
ecutive Chef Andrew Wilson stood in the late afternoon’s golden
the folks he’s come to know in the region.
light flooding the property’s cornerstone restaurant, The Empo-
Because Savannah’s seasons blur a bit, fresh ingredients
rium Kitchen and Wine Market, with a glass of Prosecco in one
abound throughout most of the year. Wilson explains his pro-
hand and an oyster knife in the other. His mission? To help me
cess, “We have hot and not so hot here in the deep south. Our
perfect my shucking skills and then some. Plates and plates of
menu is based on a classic bistro format. Nightly suppers (Plats
regional foods passed my lips that night, and I have a few things
du jour) are an example. But, because we are where it’s a melt-
to say. But, before I pontificate upon the regionality of grits and
ing pot, that’s where we bring in influences. That’s what Amer-
bivalves, I’ll start with this chef seasoned better than his pork
ica is. The bistro is just the framework––approachable, honest,
chops.
simple and straightforward. The Brussels Sprouts, for example,
Born and raised in the Northeastern part of the United States,
are called Jhunes Brussels Sprouts because our executive sous
Wilson could charm the Grand Empress herself, The Lady Cha-
chef is Filipino American. That recipe is his grandfather’s who’s
blis. “I have a great deal of Southern in my blood,” he winks.
name is Jhune and reflects his roots.” Paired with a bourbon
Starting his career as Sous Chef at Charleston’s famed, McCra-
brined pork chop and grits from Cane Water Farm, the marry-
dy’s Tavern at the turn of the millennium, he then headed to
ing of flavors and cultures is plain out perfection. Wilson brines
Savannah for several other impressive restaurant gigs. It was
his chops in Jim Beam for 48 hours, before sous vide takes the
his most recent stint in Sonoma where he “got a deep submer-
wheel. While he says he’s done this pork chop for over 20 years,
sion” into the world of wines. And even though the hotel’s Sage
immersion cooking is a new addition to his tried and true recipe.
Restaurant Group is lucky to have Bandon Wise as Vice Presi-
“We do it for purely practical purposes. It takes a long time to
dent of their beverage programs, I can’t help to think Wilson’s
cook because they are so big. Then we give six minutes of fire and
submersion influenced his style for the better when he returned
smoke on the grill which cuts down on the time,” he says.
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Volume 3, Issue 4 | www.LuxeLifestyleMag.com
