TRAVEL & LEISURE
ZAMBIA APRIL - JUNE 2016
The Busanga Plains
REMOTEST KAFUE A real struggle for survival
BOUNDLESS BANGWEULU One of Africa’s hidden gems
Return of the
RHINOS Celebrating their return
Latitude 15o LUSAKA
Boutique Hotel. Fine Dining. Cocktail Bar. ...anything can happen Latitude Life opening soon with our new gym, health spa, heated pool, and nail salon. Enjoy healthy breakfasts and lunches at our daytime juice and salad bar. Come back in the evening for a sinful cigar & whisky and the best wine list in Lusaka.
Do contact us to book your next corporate event or party.
15@thelatitudehotels.com www.thelatitudehotels.com +260 (0) 211 268802/3/4 Leopards Lane, Kabulonga, Lusaka
Mukambi Safaris offers three magnificent camps in Kafue National Park, one of the largest areas of unspoiled wilderness. Each camp has its own character and style in different areas of Kafue National Park, making them completely....unique by nature. We offer attractive packages where you can visit all of our three camps.
Mukambi Safari Lodge Fig Tree Bush Camp Mukambi Safari Lodge is overlooking the Kafue River and is the gateway to Kafue National Park.
This camp lies in an undiscovered part of the park on a Shishamba River lagoon. The only camp in a range of 30 km - it offers a unique out-of-Africa atmosphere.
Mukambi Plains Camp Mukambi Plains Camp has 8 beds available in a classic bush camp on the famous Busanga Plains.
Unique by nature
+260 (0)974 424013 | reservations@mukambi.com | mukambi.com
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / APRIL - JUNE 2016
CONTENTS Features
Five Reasons to Visit Zambia 06 By Mindy Roberts
Return of the Rhinos 22 By Kathy Mills
Boundless Bangweulu 08 By Carl Huchzermeyer
Meet Your Guide - Gilbert Kang’ombe By Andrew Muswala
North Luangwa Conservation Programme By Claire Lewis
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Planning Your Zambian Safari 26 By Nick Aslin
The Busanga Plains: Remotest Kafue By Laura Waite
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Tongabezi Trust School 28 By Evans Mwitumwa
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Mobiles in Zambia 30 By Paul Barnes
Chongwe’s Florence Shawa 20 By Andrew Muswala
Meet Davy Zulu 32 By Andrew Muswala
Mfuwe Village: A Volunteer’s Perspective By Flora Stratchan
Law Enforcement and Empowerment By Ulrica Hansson
Ila Eco Lodge By Laura Waite
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Advertisers Index
2
I.F.C.
Latitude 15 Hotel
11
Norman Carr Safaris
01
Mukambi Safaris
31
Munga Eco-Lodge
02
Edward Selfe Photography
33
Lake Kariba Inns
03
Wilderness Safaris
33
Track and Trail River Camp
05
Zambian Ground Handlers
33
Lake Safari Lodge
10
Anabezi & Amanzi Camps
33
Remote Africa Safaris
I.B.C.
Pioneer Lodge, Camp & Safaris
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34
Shumba
Life-changing journeys... with Wilderness Safaris
Victoria Falls
Kafue
Ballooning in Kafue is free for guests staying three nights or more.
Toka Leya
Wilderness Safaris specialises in memorable wildlife experiences in Zambia’s most remote and pristine National Parks – the vast wildlife-rich Busanga Plains in Kafue, as well as Mosi-oa-Tunya near the world-famous Victoria Falls. The ecotourism company shares these wild areas with guests from all over the world, while at the same time helping to ensure the future protection of Africa’s spectacular wildlife heritage and sharing the benefits of tourism with local communities. In Kafue, Shumba and Busanga Bush Camps showcase the area’s remarkable wildlife through game drives, walks and hot air ballooning over the Busanga Plains. Open for half the year, Wilderness’ presence there ensures employment for people who live in the vicinity of the Park, as well as increased conservation efforts within it. Toka Leya Camp, on the banks of the Zambezi River, is just 12 kilometres from the Victoria Falls, taking advantage of the spectacular scenery of this World Heritage Site as well as enjoying activities in and around Livingstone, the adventure capital of Africa. Toka Leya’s views, spa and gym make it the perfect place to begin or end your safari.
For more information contact your Local Agent
www.wilderness-safaris.com
TRAVEL & LEISURE
A word from the MD ZAMBIA Publisher Safari Magazine
Editor Andrew Muswala
Managing Director Andrew Muswala Email: andrew@zambiatravelmag.com
Layout and Art Director Gemma Beardsall Email: gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk
Consultant
I
Andrew Muswala
Managing Director
t is my absolute pleasure to welcome you to the third issue of Travel and Leisure Zambia magazine.
A few months ago we published the first issue of the magazine, the magazine dedicated to tourism in Zambia, and it was well received. It is published quarterly - that is 1st January, 1st April, 1st July, and 1st October. The demand is proving to be very high - beyond what we had anticipated. It is distributed throughout Zambia to both the domestic potential market and the international tourists. You can also find our previous digital copies on our website: www.zambiatravelmag.com Zambia is one of the top three fastest growing tourism destinations in the world (as mentioned by Mr Taleb Rifai, Secretary General UNWTO on BBC’s Business Live), as we offer very authentic tourism products. Mindy Roberts shares with us five reasons to visit Zambia (p 6). If you are planning a Zambian safari - Nick Aslin is a specialist in their itineraries (p 26). We also discuss mobile safaris in Zambia (p 30). Zambia had one of the largest concentrations of black rhinos in Africa – about 12,000 – and although once extinct, there is now the return of the rhinos (p 22). We also take a look at conservation in Zambia and discover how Game Rangers International is helping with wildlife conservation (p 34), learn of a volunteer’s perspective of Mfuwe village (p 21) and talk to one of the best safari guides in Kafue National Park (p 24). With treasures like the Bangweulu swamps on offer (p 8), how could you resist a trip to Zambia? On that note, happy reading from everyone at T&LZ.
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Jo Pope Email: popejo@gmail.com
Subscriptions Email: ads@zambiatravelmag.com Mobile: +260 955 108 536 +260 967 173796 www.zambiatravelmag.com
Contributors Evans Mwitumwa, Kathy G. Mills, Carl Huchzermeyer, Megan Loftie – Eaton, Mindy Roberts, Norman Carr Safaris, Flora Strachan, Ulrica Hansson, Game Rangers International, Laura Waite, Dana Allen, Wilderness Safaris, John Lucas, Claire Lewis, Frankfurt Zoological Society, Tongabezi Lodge, Nick Aslin, Peter Geraerdts, Edward Selfe, Paul Barnes
Printers Impumelelo Print Solutions (Pty) Ltd, Unit 7, Kings Court, 52 Mineral Crescent, Crown Ext.5, Johannesburg, South Africa. TEL: +27 11 839 4414 FAX: +27 11 837 3011
Copyright Copyright © All right for material appearing in this magazine belongs to Travel and Leisure Zambia and / or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or with due acknowledgment.
On the cover Lionesses in South Luangwa National Park
Photo by Peter Geraerdts
edwardselfephotography.com
Zambia’s Original Independent Destination Management Company zambiangroundhandlers.com
Five Reasons to Visit
Zambia
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Author: Mindy Roberts Photos: Norman Carr Safaris
ver the years I’ve heard guests confuse Zambia with Zimbabwe and Zaire. A guest actually said to me last year: “I’m so happy to be here in Zaire, I’ve always wanted to come,” and I’ve even been asked: “So whereabouts in South Africa is Zambia?” But Zambia should be taken seriously in its own right, thanks to the unbeatable wildlife viewing and Victoria Falls which are just a few of the many attractions. As someone who’s lived here for seven years and calls the country home, I wanted to put together my top five reasons to visit one of the continent’s lesser known countries.
Every year more than one of the companies in Zambia have their guiding team nominated for Best Guiding Team Awards from around the world. And many of them have won those awards year after year. Safety is of utmost importance when it comes to guiding and the Zambian guides have to continuously complete stringent exams for walking in the bush, canoeing, and boating, as well as maintaining advanced driving and first aid skills.
1. The Guides
Many people have never heard of Liuwa Plain National Park. Well, it is home to the second largest migration of wildebeest in the world. It is so exclusive and remote that there is only one permanent camp, Matamanene Camp, in over 3,600km² of land. Liuwa Plain is a photographer’s dream with internationally acclaimed photographers like Will Burrard-Lucas visiting frequently. Hyena display amaz-
Most guides in Zambia are born and bred in the Zambian bush, so the wildlife is second nature to them. They genuinely love what they do and have a passion for wildlife. I’ve often seen a guide of 15 or 20 years experience come back more excited than the guests with what they’ve just witnessed. Zambia has some of the best guides in the world. Shaddy Nkoma
2. Remote, vast, magical and unique: Liuwa Plain National Park
Chinzombo Bush Camp
10 years ago. Zambia is a lot less commercialised than other parts of Africa, and one still gets the chance to see wildlife without competing with other vehicles or tourists. Although there is five star accommodation available, the soul of Zambia is still to be found in the smaller, remote bush camps that use natural materials as part of the construction and give a much 3. Family Travel more intimate experience with nature. There are more and more options for family travel in Over 33% of the country is designated to national Zambia with Family Units being offered in both the parks, which means that there is a huge variety bigger camps (which are still small compared to the within Zambia of different habitats, activities, animals and vistas – you don’t need to go anywhere lodges and hotels offered in other parts of Africa). else to get the whole safari experience. Here is some information if you are traveling to Zambia with your family: 5. Owner Operated - Intergenerational travel is hugely popular in Zambia There is a legacy in Zambia of the camps and com– we have Private Villas and Houses as well as inter- panies being owner operated, and this is still the connecting Family Tents to accommodate this kind of case for many of the top camps around the country. family travel which are still small and intimate and This means the people managing the company, own the company. feel like a bush home, not a hotel in the bush. - Although walking and canoeing are for kids 12 and Why does this make a difference? over, there is plenty to keep kids under this age en- - Guests can have a meal with someone who lives and breathes the values of the business; we have a tertained. I’ve found kids in the kitchen, cooking with our chefs, on poo walks in an open area very high repeat guest rate and have created long near camp or just learning more from the main area term friendships with people who’ve travelled to our camps with one of the guides or waiters. - Most camps offer pretty good kids rates – we offer - Personal Pride – as the people who own the camps this for kids under 18, as does Proflight for all sched- we feel a personal responsibility; issues are sorted quickly and there is pride in giving you the best uled flights within the country. safari of your life - Atmosphere – in effect you are being invited into ‘home’ which provides for a relaxed and very 4. One of the last great wil- our personal safari derness experiences - The camps still retain an authentic feel with every’ve heard Zambia described as what some of the other one being different and not having to adhere to a Eastern or Southern African countries used to be like corporate standard. ing apex hunting behaviour and the pups are just so cute; one of my favourite safaris ever was spending 2 hours sitting by a den…I was never sure if we were watching the hyena or if they were watching us. Birdlife is also extraordinary – even non birders will be captivated.
TL Z
Hyena in Liuwa Plain National Park
Kakuli Bush Camp
Chinzombo Bush Camp
Boundless CANOE TRIP Guided boat trips are an excellent way to explore Bangweulu and get up close with nature
B
reak away from the rush and immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of Bangweulu Wetlands - a world of wide open spaces where nature still follows her timeless rhythms. Listen to the grass sighing as the canoe glides along the channel, expertly poled along by your guide with skill developed over a lifetime navigating the maze of waterways of this vast ecosystem at the head of Africa’s mighty Congo River. With each stroke of the paddle, you’ll feel the worries of everyday life diminishing as you become more attuned to your surroundings. A flock of egrets flies up as the canoe passes, and you spot a jacana chick trotting over the lily leaves after its parent. A friendly fisherman waves, waist deep in the clear water emptying the contents of his basket trap into his dugout canoe. Your guide exchanges greetings and news with him in Bisa, the local language, never once interrupting the rhythm of his paddling. The voices carry across the water, blending in with the birds and splash of the pole, and in no time the warm sunshine and gentle gliding of the boat has you drifting off, the adventures of the long journey getting to this remote area already feeling like a distant memory. After a well earned rest, a new day dawns with almost deafening bird choruses, but today there’s only one bird that matters: shoebill. The Bangweulu swamp holds the second largest and most southerly population of these birds. Besides their northern stronghold in the Sudd Swamps on the Nile in South Sudan, shoebills are also found in a few isolated pockets wherever
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Author: Carl Huchzermeyer Photos: Megan Loftie – Eaton; John Lucas
there is expansive, permanent swamp in Uganda, Tanzania and Kenya. These birds are naturally very rare, and this combined with their strange looks, large size and inaccessible habitat makes them one of the most sought-after species by birding - and wildlife enthusiasts. Bangweulu’s shoebills are seen by a combination of boating and trekking, depending on the season. Sightings of birds are best in the flooded season, from March to May, when they come to inflowing river deltas at the edge of the plains to forage. A morning’s game of ‘hide and seek’ around the papyrus and reedbeds inevitably results in a sighting, and if the bird is near a water channel they allow a very close approach by boat. There are also hundreds of water birds of every description to see along the way. In the dry season, from August to November, the shoebills retreat to deeper swamps to construct their nests. Once the chicks are a few weeks old, nest visits are permitted. Only one or two nests are opened for tourism visits, and these are kept short to minimise disturbance to the chicks and parents. It is generally quite a long trek to get to the nest, and visitors need a moderate degree of fitness. The trek plus the drive to and from camp takes the better part of a full day. Fortunately the drive to the nesting area offers a chance of spotting the athletic-looking Bangweulu tsessebe antelope running across the plains, or small groups of dainty oribi among the termite mounds. Bangweulu Wetlands is not only known for its
Bangweulu LECHWE In the flooded season (March–May) the plains are teeming with birdlife & the Lechwe mating season is in full swing.
shoebills: it is also home to 50,000 black lechwe antelopes. This species is endemic to the area and is well adapted to life in and around water. They occur in huge herds, and there are few places left in the world where one can still see herds of animals stretching all the way to the horizon. Black lechwe are photogenic and active animals; you can try take some really winning shots of them jumping or swimming across channels, walking in lines across the plains silhouetted by the setting sun, or maybe you’ll be lucky to witness a battle as two males lock horns while a choosy female stands by. The area is managed by the Bangweulu Wetlands Management Board, a partnership between the Zambian government’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife, the local communities, and the conservation management organisation, African Parks. The communities live in and around the conservation area, and have since the beginning of time depended on the ecosystem’s resources, especially the rich fishery. This makes Bangweulu Wetlands a unique and interesting place where you
can see people and wildlife sharing the same spaces in relative harmony. The area is very safe, and being located on the Zambian plateau ensures pleasant weather year-round. A range of accommodation from self-drive camping to a fully-inclusive bush camp is available. Activities include birding, shoebill trekking, boat trips, game drives, bush walks and even a proposed multi-day cycling tour following the ancient paths walked by Dr David Livingstone, which are still in use today. So pack your binoculars, camera and insect repellent, and come see one of Africa’s hidden gems! TL Z
SHOEBILL The prehistoric looking Shoebill is the undisputed king of the swamp.
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Anabezi and Amanzi Camp are located in the far end of the Lower Zambezi National Park. Anabezi consists of 10 tents while Amanzi has 4, with a more rustic feel. Visit us in 2016 and 2017 and stay four nights for the price of three. Anabezi & Amanzi Camp reservations@anabezi.com www.anabezi.com
North Luangwa Conservation Programme
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Author: Claire Lewis / Photos: Frankfurt Zoological Society
s Frankfurt Zoological Society celebrates its 30th year of engagement in Zambia, Claire Lewis reflects back on its conservation work in the North Luangwa ecosystem THE LUANGWA VALLEY is the oldest section of Africa’s famous Great Rift Valley on the continent. The Luangwa River, bordering four national parks, is Africa’s longest undammed river system, and home to the world’s largest concentration of hippos. The geographic location and its associated isolation, as a result of this topography, gives rise to a unique and vast ecosystem and species diversity. The North Luangwa ecosystem (NLE), comprising the National Park of the same name and its adjacent five Game Management Areas (21,000 km2) in north-eastern Zambia, harbours significant wildlife populations, including Zambia’s only black rhinos. Since 1986, Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) has been working with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW; formerly the Zambia Wildlife Authority - ZAWA) in a partnership known as the North Luangwa Conservation Programme
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(NLCP). NLCP focuses on the implementation of conservation-based initiatives aimed at protecting the area threatened by habitat loss and fragmentation, unsustainable utilisation of natural resources, and the upswing in illegal hunting for elephant ivory, rhino horn and bush meat. These initiatives aim to promote sustainable socio-economic development and protect Zambia’s natural heritage and the hook by which all activities hang is the black rhino. BLACK RHINOS historically thrived in Zambia; once home to the continent’s third largest population, numbering over 12,000. But efforts to save this charismatic and highly endangered animal through the late 1970s and early 1980s failed to stem the demand for its horn. The illegal trophy poaching decimated Zambia’s black rhino population and the species was declared nationally extinct in 1998. At the centre of conservation principles lies the philosophy that if an area can be secured for this curious pachyderm then all other co-existing natural resources can also be protected for future generations. Creating a safe environment for black rhino in Zambia became a focus of NLCP and the first of several reintroduction translocations took place in 2003, with the help of many generous donor funding partners, to form a viable founder population.
Back then, moving rhinos across the continent to start up new populations was bold and risky merely from a veterinary and logistics point of view. Rhino poaching was at an all-time low and no one foresaw what was to come. The recent dramatic rise in rhino poaching in southern Africa reflects a greatly increased demand for horns, driven by emerging affluent Asian markets, and the increasing presence of Vietnamese and Chinese investors in Africa has been linked to the rise in demand for rhino horn, for its scientifically inaccurate “medicinal” properties (rhino horn is made from keratin just like human hair and fingernails). Organised criminal gangs are using increasingly sophisticated methods to obtain rhino horn to meet the burgeoning demand. In contrast wildlife authorities are generally under-resourced, under capacitated and less sophisticated in their approach to combat the threat. With more than 90% of all recent rhino poaching occurring in southern Africa and elephant ivory poaching in Zambia escalating to levels not seen for well over a decade, the potential for an organised threat to the North Luangwa black rhinos is very real. NLCP takes these threats very seriously and the effective monitoring and protection of the rhino population is a top priority. A multi-faceted approach is needed to do this. It is often cited - the ‘carrot and stick’ approach – but very hard to achieve by a single entity as it requires a wide range of skills and human capacity with almost limitless funding to uphold the law with anti-poaching patrols, intelligence and investigations operations and canine wildlife crime detection units. At the same time, it needs to encourage responsible citizenship, sustainable use of natural resources and create awareness through education and offering alternatives to illegal wildlife and natural resource based activities. NLCP invests heavily in the ‘stick’ with an intense anti-poaching patrol effort not reflected anywhere else in the country. More than seventy 4-man foot patrols, in 10 day long stints, are equipped and rationed every month to detect, deter and deflect wildlife poaching across the ecosystem. A specialised unit known as REPU, the Rhino and Elephant Protection Unit, are deployed continuously in NLNP, and they are equipped with night vision and thermal imagery technology as well as trained in advanced anti-poaching tactics to combat the poaching threat to Zambia’s most important elephant population and its only black rhinos. Their efforts are augmented with intelligence and investigations operations
stretching beyond the ecosystem to the Tanzanian and Malawian borders. The recently formed canine unit is already proving effective in finding the locations and transport of illegal wildlife products, such as elephant ivory, rhino horn, bush meat, hard wood timbers, firearms and ammunition. At the same time NLCP engages the ‘carrot’ with local communities through an education programme, called Lolesha Luangwa, based on a conservation curriculum which is taught in 21 schools in villages surrounding NLNP, reaching more than 1,500 Grade 6 students. It also maintains airstrips and roads, builds schools, digs boreholes for drinking water and meets other infrastructural needs to strengthen community development, natural resource management and tourism activities. But this is only part of it, NLCP has a vision that goes far beyond were we are now. We need to build on the strong partnership between the Department of National Parks and Wildlife and Frankfurt Zoological Society with the communities in North Luangwa. Wilderness, wherever possible, must establish financial as well as ecological sustainability. Wildlife must pay and people must benefit. But how can this be achieved? Communities need to have a greater sense of ownership of wildlife and land and receive its benefits. Together we need to create an attractive investment environment that is based on revenue retention and decentralised decision making that creates confidence for all stakeholders. Legal entities, based on already existing ward and village action group boundaries, backboned with a participatory land use plan, would be able to enter into commercial long term leases with appropriate investors, for photographic tourism, safari hunting, sustainable forestry management or conservation agriculture generating jobs and diversifying revenue streams. It might sound simplistic but structural adaptions such as these will go a long way to giving the ecosystem sustainability. But without a resource base none of this can happen so it all comes back to the hook, the black rhino and its survival. The success and survival of black rhinos in Zambia relies on us all so if YOU hear of anything regarding the trade of illegal wildlife products please contact the Departement of National Parks and Wildlife (+260 211 278129 / 278482 / 279080) or the North Luangwa Conservation Programme (nlcp@fzs.org) immediately. TL Z
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The Busanga Plains Remotest Kafue
Author: Laura Waite of Green Safaris Photos: Dana Allen / Wilderness Safaris
T
he remote Busanga Plains lie in the far north of the Kafue National Park. This ever shifting seasonal floodplain is a hive of activity for all creatures great and small, from tiny malachite kingfishers to enormous grumpy buffalos. A biosphere, which represents a unique area in Zambia for game viewing. Visitor numbers and indeed camp numbers are low but those who do make the journey are rewarded with an experience unlike any other in Zambia and often come away having left a piece of their heart behind. Between November and May the plains are inaccessible due to the influx of the summer rains. The channels of the Lufupa River and the many other crisscrossing tributaries of the Kafue River fill and then burst their banks spilling water over the floodplain and turning it into a treacherous swampland. Only the ‘island’ outposts dotted with wild date palms, fig and sausage trees remain above the waterline.
Mr Busanga
time of year belong to the resident wildlife and the few hardy souls who remain in the camps keeping an eye on everything over the closed season. Any required movements for humans are by mokoro or on foot. Life in the swamps in the ‘green season’ is tough, the conditions extreme. The lechwe with their long and relatively narrow marsh adapted hooves don’t have much trouble. The hippos and crocodiles also get an easy life. They roam freely after having been confined, at the end of the dry season, to just the few remaining pools or driven out all together. In the ‘green season’, for the predators in particular, the sheer amount of water present makes moving around and hunting extremely hard work. It’s a real struggle for survival. As the waters recede in April a journey into the camps for their custodians becomes a possibility – this is not to say it is by any means easy but it is possible. By June camps are guest ready, but after landing at the airstrip visitors are still highly likely for the next couple of months to use the combination of a vehicle and then a mokoro or motorboat to reach their accommodation.
Cut off from the rest of the world, the plains at this Before the camps open, channels amongst the reeds
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are cut into the swamp, opening up boat ‘highways’ to explore the plains and meander between the ‘islands’. Birders who visit at this time of year are in their element, the marshland is a haven for our feathered friends. The early morning mist at this time of year is very dramatic. Shrouded lechwe and pukus are semi-visible through the haze before it burns off mid morning.
“It’s a real struggle for survival.” Typically from about August onwards the landscape begins to dry out and visitors make the switch from boats to vehicles for their safaris. There is even an option to take to skies in a hot air balloon and drift silently over the flat lands gaining height from time to time to avoid the odd collection of trees.
story and plight for survival has been told before in television documentaries such as ‘Swamp Lions’. Anyone with a safari or African interest and who doesn’t live under a rock will have heard the sad tale of Cecil the lion, who was killed in Hwange, Zimbabwe, in June 2015. This news story took the media by storm and for those of us based in the Busanga Plains we were saddened by this news but also encouraged by the accompanying fact that so many people were taking an interest in protecting these beautiful animals.
The story of Cecil is sadly reminiscent of a similar occurrence in the Busanga Plains back in August 2007 where our alpha male who we knew as Big John was baited out of the area and crossed unknowingly into a hunting concession. There he met his match. He may not have the same fame as Cecil This gives you a rough idea of what to expect but the has encountered but he is close to our hearts, and conditions are always subject to the climate and for in fact related to a lot of our current lion residents. the last two years in the plains we have had two very dry seasons. In 2015 the roan and sable arrived on Over the years, three different prides, various male Busanga in July, earlier than we have ever heard of be- coalitions and individual loners have competed for fore. We were driving all the way into camp by June. the best enclaves on the plains. We’ve watched, captivated, as their territories shift and change. After The Busanga Plains are famous for their vistas much the loss of Big John, his son who we dubbed Mr Bureminiscent, in my opinion, of the Maasai Mara but sanga, became the king of the plains and his reign without the accompanying hordes of safari goers. Ac- lasted for 7 years. He was recognisable by his sheer cording to Isaac Kalio, resident Busanga guide, the size and generally had a hareem of accompanying plains are ‘extremely magical for game viewing’. They females at his side. are revered for their wealth and diversity of mammals and birds. But perhaps their most famous residents, But age catches up with us all eventually. Sensing due to their population density, are the lions. Their weakness, in late 2014 a previously unseen 3 male Shumba hippo tussle
Shumba roan TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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lion coalition appeared on the plains. We also began to see a lot more of the so-called ‘Musanza Boys’, a pair of male lions with particularly striking dark manes. Change was afoot and one afternoon it all came to a head in a battle of epic proportions involving all of these competing males itching to flex their muscles. They chased, roared and clawed at each other all attempting to assert their authority. The Musanza Boys were sighted the following day licking their wounds but apparently victorious as we didn’t see the coalition, Mr Busanga or indeed any of his females again for the remainder of the season.
nowhere to be found. The Musanza Boys also remained in residence. Further previously unsighted males made sporadic but short-lived appearances on the scene. None were strong enough for a takeover.
By season open in 2015 the Papyrus Pride, generally found in the north of the plains had seized their chance teaming up with the Musanza Boys and taking over Mr Busanga’s previous domain. We watched in awe as this ferocious team, staked claim to their new territory and developed a special skill for taking down hippos. Other newbies, alone or in groups, wandered in and out of the scene but none strong or numerous enough to tackle the new residents. And then, one early morning in August, whom should we see but Mr Busanga strolling alone but majestically across the plains. One final encore for his fans perhaps! It’s certainly the last we saw of him that season.
One thing is for sure, power shifts and struggles aside, one thing will undoubtedly be the same for 2016 – the plains themselves. Their beauty and peace will remain unchanged.
By 2015 season close the Papyrus Pride was made up of three lionesses, two sub adult males and just one cub that we nicknamed ‘Princess.’ One of the older females gained the alias ‘The Machine’ due to her incredible ability to hunt whilst heavily pregnant. Sadly the season ended before she gave birth and the other two Papyrus cubs sighted earlier in the season were 16
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For me, the 2015 season was my last working on the plains and I do wonder what my fellow colleagues will find at the beginning of the 2016 season when they make the long journey in to open camp. I certainly hope to visit and find out! Perhaps you should too?
TL Z
Lion leap
Getting there
You can reach central Kafue easily by air or road from Lusaka or Livingstone. Drive time from Lusaka is approx. 3.5 hours on a well-maintained tar road. From there the Busanga Plains are then reachable by road but only in the height of the dry season – between August and October. The road is not in great condition. Total drive time from Lusaka would be approx. 8 hours and I would only advise this journey if you are an experienced Africa hand, own a 4 x 4 (essential) and ideally travel with a satellite telephone as you will be driving some sections along a little used road with no population. Guided road transfers and charter flights can be arranged into the Busanga Plains depending on which lodge you choose to stay at. Make contact with Wilderness Safaris or Mukambi for accommodation within the Busanga Plains, or Jefferey and McKeith for a mobile safari in the same area. Sable antelope on the edge of the plains
Musanza Boys
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Watering seedlings
Construction crew taking a break
Ila Safari Lodge - A True Eco Lodge in the Making What does it mean to be an ‘eco lodge’? This rather vague term came to light around the 1990s and has been touted by all manner of establishments worldwide. But what does it actually mean? And what must you do to claim it? An ‘eco lodge’ would be defined by its method of construction and operation. In line with these methods the lodge would deem itself ‘eco’ based on its treatment of the natural, built and social environments. Unfortunately there are no clearcut guidelines of what you ‘have’ to achieve in order to make an ‘eco’ claim. For us at Green Safaris what it boils down to is harmony, respect and honesty. Our first lodge, Ila Safari Lodge, is based in the pristine Kafue National Park. For Ila, we don’t just want to make the ‘eco lodge’ claim, we want to live and breathe this ideology. 18
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Let’s get specific. What are Green be operational on opening. We’ll Safaris actually doing? be running our own water treatment plant on site for both grey Building We are using an eco friendly sand- and black water recycling, as well bag building method combining eco- as using eco friendly amenities beams and excavated earth for our and cleaning products throughout main boma area. By inference this the lodge. Our black water recymeans we use a minimum amount cling captures methane produced of concrete and avoid the transpor- when human organic waste is tation of building materials to site. broken down. Biogas production Beyond this we are also using local- reduces the need for bottled gas ly sourced hardwood where possi- to be transported into the lodge. ble because of its beneficial carbon We’re the proud owners of Zamdioxide absorption properties as bia’s very first electronic Land compared to soft wood. During con- Rover (eLandy) and our electronic struction we build around the local boat (eBoat) is on its way to us. flora, and wherever possible, incor- Using these modes of transport porate it into our finished product. our guests will be able to experiWhere impossible, we’ve uprooted ence emission free ‘silent safaris’. small trees and plants to repot them. Further to this we have a commitThey are stored in our greenhouse ment to be Carbon Neutral. Refuse is sorted on site and reready to be replanted. turned to Lusaka for responsible Operations Ila Safari Lodge runs on 100% solar disposal. Biodegradable waste is power (we do have a back up gen- composted and redistributed. All erator for emergencies). Our biogas of our appliances are A-rated for plant is under construction and will energy efficiency and we’re in-
Internal workings of the eLandy
Thatching grass from Kaoma
stalling LED lighting throughout the lodge. Even our beds incorporate recycled scrap metal for their springs! To keep our plastic consumption in check we will be supplying each of our guests with an aluminum water bottle, which they can refill, from our water machine. The machine purifies river water, meaning we don’t transport bottled water into the lodge. Social Responsibility
Green Safaris are in the process of setting up a community farm that will provide further local employment and training opportunities. We will purchase our fresh produce as much as possible from the farm and hope other lodges will follow suit. We support local businesses for the sourcing of materials and interiors, from thatching to furniture, via décor and curio shop stock. We also support local conservation initiatives such as GRI and international initiatives such as Pack for a Purpose. As much as possible all of our
Our greenhouse enthusiast
Our first 8 solar panels - 135 more to go
workforce will be employed from our immediately surrounding communities. We run a comprehensive in-house training programme in conjunction with Lobster Ink, an internationally recognized hospitality-training platform. Lobster training develops individuals and teaches skills for life. Does this all sound too good to be true? We considered this and decided that it is not good enough to just make these claims and expect everyone to take our word for it. In light of this, we are bringing in external third parties to audit our ‘eco’ efforts. We want an official stamp of approval. Ila Safari Lodge is soon to be visited by Heritage, an environmental management company specialising in the independent recognition, review and certification of environmental performance across the services sector. We are also due a visit by members of the Dutch government who have provided us with a grant to be invested into an ‘eco’ lodge. They
want to ensure that Green Safaris has invested their money in line with their ‘eco’ requirements and we look forward to hosting them. With the construction of Ila Safari Lodge, Green Safaris have put our money and passion where our mouth is. We are going to shout loud, clear and with confidence ILA SAFARI LODGE IS A TRUE ECO LODGE. Come safari with us. Experience the wilderness of Kafue National Park and our own brand of warm Zambian hospitality any time from our opening date of May 1st, 2016. Let us not only delight you as our guests in the bush but also show you our ‘eco’ credentials. Get in touch for our special opening season rates. TL Z
Article by Laura Waite of Green Safaris Contact details: +260 976 366 054 welcome@greensafaris.com TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Florence: seated Photo: Chongwe River Camp, Lower Zambezi National Park
Andrew Muswala talks with Florence M Shawa, the General Manager of Chongwe Safaris
1. What do you love most about your career?
Oh! Everything. People mostly, dealing with people and meeting different people, that’s what I love the most.
2. How would you describe yourself?
I am very charismatic, I love a challenge (going to work in the valley was a challenge, I’ve always been a city girl).
3. When you are not at Chongwe River Camp, what are you doing?
I am Lusaka reconnecting with my family, and also my husband and I are building our own house so we are there overseeing the project.
4. What has been the best part of your career?
I think advancement from just managing the camp (Chongwe River Camp) to General Manager of Chongwe Safaris which has four properties (Chongwe River Camp, Kasaka River Lodge, Tsika Island and Chongwe River House).
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5. What was your first day at Chongwe Camp like?
Terrifying!! I went with Chris Liebenberg our Managing Director. We arrived by boat, it was in March and the
camp was quiet. It took me a week and a half to start filtering in the noise of animals.
6. What makes your job exciting?
The fact that it’s different every day. Guest-wise, you
are dealing with different people everytime. Your planning is always spontaneous (what activities the guests will enjoy and your execution).
7. What makes your job challenging?
Dealing with different people on a managerial level, trying to keep the harmony amongst staff, coming up with new ways to motivate and keep the enthusiasm.
8. What’s been your greatest achievement?
I am still achieving, I haven’t reached my full potential.
Career-wise, being the general manager of Chongwe Safaris would be my greatest achievement.
TL Z
MFUWE VILLAGE: A VOLUNTEER’S PERSPECTIVE
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fuwe village, South Luangwa, seems to be a wonderfully chaotic place to live. Driving along the main road through the village you see a whole host of life. Groups of huts cluster by the roadside and women are seen transporting goods on their heads, babies slung across their backs. Everything is buzzing with constant life. Children run behind the vehicles chasing and waving. Men sit around gesticulating or dancing to the music pouring out of the make-shift shops. Families are seen cooking on stoves, while the smells of burning wood and oil waft through the town. In the centre of the village, stalls line the road selling fruit, vegetables and fabric. This market is constantly filled with gossiping ladies and the fabric injects vibrant colours into the otherwise sandy landscape. Colourful shops are found set back on the road which range from hardware to fashion. There are a couple of tourist shops which sell beautiful handmade skirts, keyrings and jewellery. I always loved driving into the village to pick up the camp’s staff or to buy supplies. You have to be care-
Author: Flora Strachan Photos: Flora Strachan
ful, of course, making sure to avoid all of the bicycles, goats, dogs and the wandering elephants which all assemble on the narrow and bumpy roads. It was always my favourite part of the day, watching life play out and soaking up the infectious atmosphere. This simplicity also sees hints of modernity with the village having many crucial and excellent facilities. The village has a filling station, police station and clinic. Not to mention the famous Mayana: a modern and fully stocked supermarket selling everything anyone could ever need. Not to mention many guilty pleasures - with much of the produce South African we gorged on Simba crisps and biltong for the three months I was there. On the most part in this village, the residents want for nothing and always greet you with a wide smile, the latter certainly making a difference coming from the streets of the UK. When your car breaks down, a big group of men will happily stop what they are doing and help you jump-start the engine. Everyone in the village is interested and everyone is friendly. The village is perfect and has everything you really need, yet still retains its charm. When driving away from Mfuwe to the airport for the very last time, road markings and lines were encroaching ever closer to the village. I fear this is a sign of the times with modernity and uniformity creeping in. But for now, Mfuwe village is a rare and special place left in our world that remains unchanged and exquisite, despite the world that lies outside. It remains happy and the most wonderful place I have ever had the pleasure to visit. TL Z
RETURN OF THE
RHINO A New Population of Black and White Rhinos in Zambia
Black Rhino
Author: Kathy G. Mills Photos: Fotolia.com
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frica is home to two species of rhino: the white rhino (Ceratotherium simum) and the black rhino (Diceros bicornis). The white rhino is taller and heavier, standing up to 6 feet tall at the shoulder and weighing up to 6,000 lbs. The black rhino is smaller, reaching full height at 4 ½ to 5 ½ feet tall, and weighing up to 3,000 lbs. Other differences between the two include their territories (both are sub-Saharan, but call different countries home) and their diets (one prefers grasses while the other prefers leaves). But strangely, the one thing that does not distinguish the rhinos from each other is their colour. In spite of their names, black and white rhinos are the same medium-grey hue.
White Rhino like mouth to accommodate their search for food. As browsers, their diet consists of leaves and fruits found on the branches of trees and shrubs. The curved mouth allows the black rhinos to easily poke, prod, and pluck their food from the bush. You may hear these rhinos referred to as “hook-lipped” rhinos, but they are commonly called “black” rhinos just to distinguish them from the “white.” Black rhinos are native to South Africa, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Kenya, as well as Botswana, Malawi, Mozambique, Swaziland, Tanzania, and Zambia.
Just 40 years ago, Zambia had one of the largest concentrations of black rhinos in Africa — more than 12,000 roamed freely within its borders. But throughout the 1970s and 1980s, those numbers fell drastically. An increased demand for rhino horn (a prized ingredient used in traditional Chinese medicine) encouraged money-hungry poachers to begin a ruthless campaign of slaughter. The illegal trade eventually wiped out the entire population. Zambia declared the black rhino extinct in 1998. While it is nearly impossible to reverse the effects of such a devastating loss, conservationists have established programs that are re-introducing rhinos back into the country. We can support these efforts by visiting both black and white rhinos By contrast, the Diceros Bicornis at the following Zambian national rhinos have a pointed, almost beak- parks: Rhinos in southern Africa are grazers who subsist on a diet of bush grasses. They have a wide, flat mouth that is perfectly suited for vacuuming food from the ground. Dutch-speaking settlers to the South Africa called them the “wijd-mond rhino” meaning “wide-mouth rhino.” Later, English-speaking settlers to the area misheard “wijd” as “white.” And just like that, the Ceratotherium simum was dubbed the “white rhino,” a name based not on color, but a mispronunciation. Nowadays, you will also hear the white rhino referred to as the “square-lipped rhino.” Virtually all white rhinos are found in just four countries: South Africa, Zimbabwe, Namibia, and Kenya.
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park transported a small number of white rhinos from South Africa to maintain in a protective environment. The animals have managed to reproduce in their new surroundings (never an easy feat for wild animals) and there have been four births in the park. The total count there is 9. Lusaka National Park, which just opened in June of 2015, imported two white rhinos from South Africa. During the week, they are free to roam in a large, fenced section of the park that allows them plenty of grazing opportunities. On weekends, however, they are brought into a smaller enclosure where visitors can observe them up-close. Early morning and late afternoon visitors may be lucky enough to catch them at feeding time. North Luangwa National Park houses 34 black rhinos introduced by the North Luangwa Conservation Program (NLCP). The NLCP also has plans to expand the program in the future, by introducing more rhinos in South Luangwa Park and Kafue National Park. Although the current living situation for these rhinos is not entirely natural, the programs are providing hope for the future. Just 20 years ago we were mourning the loss of rhinos in Zambia. Now, we are welcoming them home and celebrating their return. TL Z
Andrew Muswala talks with
Gilbert Kang’ombe
one of the top safari guides in Kafue National Park
Gilbert on a walking safari (opposite: same)
1) What is your full name and when did you join In 2014 I sat for my grade 2 guiding exams (for driving) and was among the five students with the best Mukambi Safari Lodge?
My full name is Gilbert Kang’ombe and I joined marks. In 2015 I wrote my grade 1 exams (for walking) and also wrote the boat and fishing guide exams, of Mukambi Safari Lodge in 2004. which I got the best marks in both exams.
2) Tell us briefly about your background?
I was brought up in the village in a place called T.B.Z (Tobacco Board of Zambia) in Nkeyama district and I did my junior secondary at Nkeyama Secondary School. Due to lack of financial resources I did not continue with my education, I joined Phoenix Construction and worked as an operator of the bitumen spraying. In the year 2002, I joined Chilongozi Safaris in Kafue National park. I started as a general worker and was later moved to housekeeping. In 2001 I became a waiter at one of Chilongozi Safari Camps called Ntemwa Tented Lodge. I worked with them for close to three years.
5) What’s been your biggest achievement?
Firstly I have learnt a lot about conservation. I have also managed to build my own house and bought two cars.
6) Is your work ever dangerous?
Since we are close to the animals, dangers are always there. But we understand the nature of these animals and are able to read them and know how to handle them.
7) How long have you been working at Mukambi Safari Lodge?
3) How did you start working for Mukambi Safari I’ve been working for Mukambi Safaris for close to twelve years now. Lodge? After Chilongozi Safaris closed, I went back to the village. The head waiter from Mukambi Safari Lodge told me that they were looking for waiters and that’s how I joined as a waiter. A year later I was trained as a Chef by Tony from the Netherlands. I then became a chef for one of Mukambi Safaris Camps called Busanga Plains Camp.
4) How did you become a safari guide and what are your qualifications?
Mukambi Safari Lodge was growing and there was a need for more guides. I was asked whether I wanted to be a guide or remain a chef and I chose to be a guide because of the passion I have for it. I did a guiding course but did not pass the exams. The following year I had to rewrite the exams and I got the highest marks.
8) What does your work involve?
Firstly, I am the head guide and I look after the other guides, prepare the guiding schedule and also make sure that the security guards are present.
9) Where else would you like to work in the world?
It has never occurred to me to work anywhere apart from here in Zambia and in the Kafue National Park!
10) In one sentence, how would you describe Kafue National Park? It’s a fabulous park, vast with so many spices of mammals and birds - a park with all the big cats: lion, leopard and cheetah. TL Z
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PLANNING YOUR ZAMBIAN SAFARI Author: Nick Aslin Photos: inset: Nick Aslin, background: Mukambi Safaris
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plunge-pools or grass walls and bucket-showers, all of these factors are actually just as important as how o you want to go on safari, and you’ve heard that much you want to pay. Zambia is the place to be in 2016… but what next? Careful planning and preparation can be the difference I‘ve always thought that Zambia attracts the more disbetween a waste of your valuable holiday time (not to cerning of safari-goers, we offer a very authentic prodmention your money) and an absolute trip of a lifetime. uct, and it’s fair to say that this won’t suit everyone. I assist hundreds of people every year with the planning Many of our camps are very small and some quite of their holidays and so in the paragraphs below and in a remote. As a rule - the more camps in an area, the follow-up article I hope to dispel some of the myths and more vehicles and tourists and indeed the more anidetail a few guidelines that should make the planning of mals. The trouble is that no one goes on safari to look at other people. The best designed trips will strive for your trip a whole lot easier. a balance between a remote experience and one that Let’s start at the beginning; you’re going to need some provides all the game one could wish to see. We are advice on where to go and where to stay. Believe me, lucky in Zambia that these elements will often come a quick search on the internet will produce numerous together but this does not happen by chance; the skill safari specialists around the world all promising that and knowledge of those advising you is paramount. their knowledge and their customer care is unequalled. My advice here is not to shy away but to get stuck in, So whether you’re looking for a week’s walking safari have a look at a bunch of websites and select a few that in the South Luangwa, a canoe trip on the Zambezi take your fancy, you’ll soon be able to gauge whether a or something more specialist like the bats in Kasanka company knows much about Zambia or not. Ideally you or the wildebeest in Liuwa, it is important to research should write to your favorite few and see what sort of carefully, seek plenty of advice and don’t be afraid to responses you receive, ultimately you’re looking for some- involve middlemen, you’ll get a better trip if you do one to reply quickly and enthusiastically with some sense and someone else is paying them, not you! of firsthand knowledge or experience. In the next edition of Travel & Leisure Zambia we will Many people will be tempted to try and do everything assume that you’ve chosen your destinations and look themselves rather than going directly to the websites of at what to consider before departure. safari operators here in Zambia. That would be a mistake for a first time visitor to the country. Most importantly and contrary to popular belief, it’s no cheaper, in fact you may end up paying more for a lesser experience. The safari industry is made up of many components; the agents around the world play an important role, many of the cleverer ones will then bring in my company for the ultimate in local knowledge and assistance, we then deal with local safari operators and flight companies. Each player in the game adds value to the travelling customer yet the price charged for the holiday is not increased. TL Z
The more information you can give your booking agent the more likely they are to guide you correctly. Have you been on safari before? What did you like or dislike? Do you prefer to walk or to drive? Are you into birds or animals, culture or tranquility? Do you like hair-driers and
Nick Aslin runs Zambian Ground Handlers specializing in the preparation of safari itineraries in Zambia, he has been involved in the industry for over 25 years.
edwardselfephotography.com
The Works and Fruits of Tujatane, Tongabezi Trust School
Author: Evans Mwitumwa Photos: Tujatane, Tongabezi Trust School
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ujatane, Tongabezi Trust School is situated about 25 kilometers from Livingstone town off the Kazungula/ Sesheke route and just a stone throw from the Zambezi River. The story of Tujatane is a true manifestation of service to the community from an abundance of sacrifice and genuine love for humanity. Vanessa Parker, who founded Tujatane, Tongabezi Trust School in 1996, had earlier come to Zambia as a volunteer offering Math at the trade school, now LIBES. Vanessa has been working at the school since 1996 been working at the school. She continues to be Director of the school working on voluntary basis and no doubt offering substantial guidance and counsel to the academic team. She further works hand in hand with a Board of Trustees in England and a local Board. Both boards are working hand in hand to see the school move to the next level. The members of the boards are men and women of diverse expertise guaranteeing the school a continued existence.
their futures and to enable them to get out of the poverty trap that currently exists. The children who attended Tujatane initially were generally children of the employees of Tongabezi Lodge and as the school grew it became a community school that catered for the wider community of Simonga. All children walk to school, many from as far away as 7km and live in homes with no running water. The connection between Tongabezi Lodge and Tujatane is to a great extent what has made Tujatane what it is today. Benjamin Parker, the husband to Vanessa Parker and Director of Tongabezi and Sindabezi Lodges has been a massive support. The school is built on Tongabezi Lodge land and guests that come to the lodge often visit the school and some are instrumental in major ways; they offer donations and some generously offer sponsorship by either sponsoring a child or sponsoring other activities in the school. Further, from the birth of the school, Benjamin Parker together with his Tongabezi team has provided services and support to the school including catering for the Christmas party for the pupils and with provision of resources for the purchase of gifts for the children and other forms of entertainment. Clearly, in the tough Zambian economy and indeed the local community of Simoonga and surrounding areas, children are privileged a rare opportunity to still feel like children and roam into different avenues of childhood – thanks to Benjamin Parker and other partners.
Tujatane is a Tonga word which literary means holding hands. The idea to start Tujatane, Tongabezi Trust School was born from a realization that the local community was thirsty for an education and from the wish from the Tongabezi Lodge staff to be able to offer their children an education which they had not had the chance of going through themselves. Many parents have not completed primary level education. The school was set up to enable the children in the local community to acquire the necessary knowledge From an initial number of 15 little boys and girls, the and skills to take full advantage of opportunities in school now has a total number of 275 pupils. The school runs from pre-school to Grade 9. The chil28
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dren are provided free tuition, medicare, and meals. All this is made possible by the ‘sponsor a child programme’, as well as numerous donations from well wishers from around the world. It is this money from various sponsors that helps pay staff salaries and see to the running of programmes within the school. Most of the school infrastructure has been built from donations from individuals or families. The school has a total workforce of nearly thirty staff. It has sixteen teaching staff with qualifications ranging from certificate to degree level education. There are seven assistant teachers and five ancillary staff. To ensure continuity in improvements of standards, a number of staff are upgrading their qualifications. The relief that the local community benefits as a result of having its children at Tujatane is massive. Tujatane offers an education that is superior and unique. Literally, all children in the community want to come to Tujatane and their parents also want them to. With the food programme running, the children from generally poor families that cannot afford three meals a day are guaranteed two meals at Tujatane. Our line of action now is to continue taking Tujatane forward and embracing fully the belief system that founded it - service to the community. In line with the Sustainable Development Goal on Education, in particular target 4.2, we are working on expanding our preschool section to ensure quality early childhood development.
accountants, clinicians, teachers, lawyers and many other professions. This has only been possible with the generosity of many sponsors from around the world who have donated funds to enable these students to complete their studies and become professionals. This comes with such resounding contrast with less privileged individuals in other communities whose maturity in line with the girl child, is seen as a source of capital for the family. We are confident that these will no doubt contribute to the wellbeing of their families, the country and the world at large in various ways. Without Tujatane, the future of most of the above would not have been guaranteed. In addition, the fact that the children are provided health care means their health is assured. It is all too easy to push this aside during these hard economic times when there are multiple demands of limited financial resources. Consequntly, this has led to a community with well nourished, healthy children. To ensure that all children learn, we will continue to offer a number of co-curricular activities: art, music, performing arts and numerous other clubs and sports. We believe that not all children are academic and hence the numerous co-curricular activities – all children have to learn. We are convinced that as a school, we should champion the development of the children to their greatest potential so that they take full advantage of opportunities available in future. In the words of Sir Ken Robinson, our task is to educate the whole being so they can face this future. Clearly, we may not see this future, but they will. And our job is to help them make full utilization of it to the greater benefit of humanity.
Furthermore, like any other social service, the provision of free education to the surrounding communities has led to the expansion of the valuable functioning of the beneficiaries in a number of ways. From 1996 to date, Tujatane has supported a number of local students from pre-school to tertiary level. For more information about Tujatane: Today, the school boasts the education of a pilot, www.tujatane.com vanessa@tongabezi.com
TL Z
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MOBILES IN ZAMBIA Author: Paul Barnes Photos: Pioneer Safaris Zambia
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ambia has long been considered and recommended as a safari destination that one must charter fly around to access the various parks we have to offer. However, there are more and more people looking to go on Mobile Safaris around our vast country and this is why. There is a distinct difference between the experiences a guest has when he or she has chartered around Zambia as opposed to driving. Indeed, chartering is much quicker but it removes an understanding of exactly how remote or wild a destination is. Also, if one was to fly from Kenneth Kaunda (KK) International airport to a lodge’s private airstrip, then back to KK International after the safari, what of Zambia have they actually seen aside from the lodge they were staying in? Have they eaten nshima or felt the deep hospitality of a village community, or even spoken with someone whom isn’t paid to host them? The chances are none of the above. Thirty three percent of the country is allocated to National Parks and Game Management Areas (GMAs). Some of the GMA’s are vast, still hosting a lot of game that are simply untouched by photographic tourism. We have managed to encourage more people to go into these areas and the feedback has been
brilliant, mostly because there aren’t many places left in Africa in which you can safari without seeing other tourists - sometimes, hundreds of them. Although we don’t have an accurate figure for the numbers of tourists coming into Zambia due to the business people utilising the same visa, we do know that the majority are only seeing our honey pot areas, mostly South Luangwa and Livingstone. There is of course good reason for this as the Victoria Falls is a wonder of the world and S. Luangwa is nothing short of a fantastic park and is now one of the top parks in Africa. We have some gems that are massively under utilised and are very expensive to fly to, such as Luiwa Plains which hosts the second largest Wildebeest migration in Africa, Kasanka National Park which hosts the largest Mammal migration in the world, Lake Tanganyika which is the second largest freshwater lake in the world by volume and the second deepest. Bangwuelu Wetlands accommodates the legendary Shoebill, up the road from there is Lake Bangwuelu, a vast lake which even residents of Zambia can fail to point to on a map, yet it has a lot to offer. We have the Kafue National Park, stretching some 22,4oo km sq and hosting over 55 species of mammals. There are many other areas I could delve into which are massively neglected. I do hope that with the
rise of Mobile Safaris, we may start to encourage more and more people to visit these incredible destinations. When I start to form the itinerary for my clients, they always ask me what a good length of time to come to Zambia for and I always reply,
“how long to do you have?”
We have run a few trips that are a month long; every year we have a couple from England come for a month and due to what this country has to offer, we are able to put together a completely different itinerary every time, and we could do this for years with them and they still wouldn’t see it all. So, the reason why more folks are driving around our beloved country is clear, because there is more to see, more to touch, smell and feel. TL Z
Munga Eco-lodge is set on 6 acres of natural habitat at the south end of Livingstone, 10 minutes away from the Victoria Falls. We offer spacious ensuite chalets, natural swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Ideal for couples, families and small groups.
Enjoy 15% Off when you stay 3 nights or more during April - June. (Discount applies to bed & breakfast per person. Subject to availability).
Quote this advert when you make your booking. Tel: + (260) 213 327 211 / Cell: + (260) 971 836 340 / Email: info@mungaecolodge.com / www.mungaecolodge.com TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Photo: Mfuwe Lodge
Davy Zulu
the head chef at Mfuwe Lodge Tell us about your family? I come from a family of 13, four boys and nine girls. I was born in Mufulira on the Copperbelt where my father was working for the mines. I’m married to Esther Phiri and we have six children,three boys and three girls. When did you join Mfuwe Lodge? I joined Mfuwe Lodge in 2000 and my first job was a kitchen porter for one year. In 2002, I did training as a chef right here at Mfuwe Lodge and from 2002 to November 2014, I worked as What have you learnt so far? The first thing that comes to my mind is costing a senior chef. of food. I have learned not to waste any food. This has helped me a lot at home. Please tell us about your work? Firstly, I’m now the head chef here at What do you enjoy about your work? Mfuwe Lodge. I was appointed in De- Mainly it is preparing meals for different guests cember, 2014 and I supervise six chefs. who come through the lodge and also teaching Our work begins with the preparation the other chefs whom I supervise. of breakfast for our guests before they go on a game drive. What challenges do you face in the field? Not many really. At times we do have some We then start preparing lunch from trainee chefs, and you find that you teach them 07:00 hours to 10:00 hours and we something today and they forget after two days. have tea time at 15:00 hours before guests go for the evening game drives. What’s next for you, once you leave Mfuwe Preparation of dinner starts at 14:00 Lodge? Well, my plan is to open my own bakery where I hours and is served at 20:00 hours. will be making cakes and other confectionaries.
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TL Z
Siavonga
Call Us on +260 211 511 148 +260 978 659 584 +260 962 202 038 Email Us lakesafari@gmail.com Find Us www.lakesafari.com
Tel:+260 211 511 249 Cell:+260 97 777 0480 info@kariba inns.com
www.karibainns.com
LAW-ENFORCEMENT AND EMPOWERMENT
IN the KAfue NATIONAL PARK Author: Ulrica Hansson Photos: Game Rangers International
Orphan Elephant Mphamvu receiving milk bottle from keeper James
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them requires the participation by the communities around the Park. This is the rationale behind the Game Rangers International (GRI) – Kafue Conservation Project (KCP), which is taking a holistic approach to conservation, believing that successful conservation only happens if local people and communities are able to experience the benefits of wildlife and healthy eco-systems. KCP is working with conservation on multiple levels, through support to law-enforcement, community outreach, education, research and park maintenance.
ast, enigmatic and teeming with life, the Kafue National Park remained largely unexplored for a long time. In recent years however, new lodges and safari operators have attracted increasing numbers of travellers to Zambia’s oldest and largest national park, which is home to a wide variety of wildlife. Elephant, leopard, more species of antelope than in any other African park, wild dog, hippo, crocodiles, lions and the elusive cheetah are only a few of the species populating this vast protected area. To curb the poaching threat in Kafue National KCP is working alongside the Department Sadly, like in so many other national parks on the Park, National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW, formerAfrican continent, Kafue National Park is facing of ly ZAWA) to support and empower anti-poaching a number of threats. Poaching for ivory is a well- units. Through training, equipment and operational known, global wildlife crime, driven by a high de- support, these units are better equipped to confront mand for ivory mainly in the Far East. A less well- wildlife criminals. KCP is supporting DNPW’s Speknown but equally destructive form of poaching is cial Anti-Poaching Unit (SAPU) well as a number the one for bush meat, which is decimating wildlife of regional Anti-Poaching Units as (APU’s). populations all over Zambia and the rest of Africa. Human-wildlife conflicts arise when human popula- SAPU is an intelligence-led Law Enforcement Unit tions spread out and encroach on areas previously with the objective of eliminating poaching hotspots occupied by wildlife. Elephants raiding crops, de- as well as of disrupting illegal wildlife trade routes. stroying livelihoods and sometimes killing people, is SAPU works closely with GRI - Wildlife Crime Prea problem shared by the communities around Kafue vention Project, based in Lusaka. SAPU’s operates National Park. across the entire Park and all the neighbouring Game Area’s. SAPU can also act as a “Strike These problems have multiple causes, and addressing Management Force” to DNPW’s Intelligence and Investigations Unit. SAPU’s day-to-day anti-poaching operations are commanded and coordinated by DNPW officers, Opposite: SAPU on Anti-poaching patrols TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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and are overseen by the DNPW Senior Warden for Kafue National Park. KCP also supports three regional Anti-Poaching Units; the Busanga APU in the north, the Nkala APU in the south of the park and a Marine Unit, which supports anti-poaching activities on Lake Itezhi-Tezhi. “These law-enforcement units are proving to be highly effective in countering the threat to the wildlife. In 2015 they arrested 200 poachers, seized over 130 firearms, recovered almost 300 snares and over 6 tonnes of bushmeat. Not only does KCP wish to counter the threat to the wildlife of the Park, but it wants to send a clear message that poachers run a very high risk of being apprehended and prosecuted,” says Ian Hoad, Project Manager for KCP. But anti-poaching starts far away from boots, patrols and command centers. There is strong evidence that the depletion of natural resources can be halted and even reversed if local communities see the economic and social value of wildlife. KCP is therefore investing heavily in its Community Outreach and Education programme, which seeks to empower the communities living adjacent to Kafue National Park to improve their health and wellbeing through sustainable natural resource management.
groups and constructed elephant-safe granary stores. They also deliver environmental education to 22 remote schools in the area and run a popular conservation themed radio show on ITT FM, which reaches 30,000 listeners every week.
“But anti-poaching starts far away from boots, patrols and command centers”
“By forging strong relationships, offering sustainable livelihoods solutions and highlighting the value of natural resources, we’ve empowered the local community to become guardians of Kafue National Park. The Community Outreach and Education programme fosters a sense of responsibility, pride and purpose, which has lead to fishermen reporting gunshots, radio show listeners calling in to inform us of possible elephant orphan sightings, and children committing to stop eating bush meat” says Jeni Jack, Technical Advisor for KCP’s Outreach and Education.
Kafue National Park not only contains a diversity of wildlife, it is also an important cultural resource that provides opportunities for tourism, research and socio-economic well-being for the surrounding local communities and Zambia as a whole. With holistic Targeting health, education, food security, sustaina- and sustainable efforts, the wildlife in the Park has ble livelihoods and human-elephant conflict in these the chance to survive and to be a source of joy and rural communities, the programme aims to achieve pride for future generations. both development and conservation outcomes in close collaboration with NPW. Amongst other For more information about Game Rangers Interthings, KCP has constructed and equipped a Ma- national’s projects and how you can support them, ternal Health Clinic in Basanga, established income please visit www.gamerangersinternational.org generating projects through women’s empowerment TL Z
Art class in Mukambi Community School
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