May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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Zambia Skyways specializes in air charters and aircraft maintenance. We offer outstanding service and flexibility for all your charter needs. We have an experienced and friendly team available 24hours and 7 days a week. For business or holiday travel contact our reservation office and we will make the arrangements for you.
RESERVATIONS : +260 967 628 082 +260 966 764 069 +260 971 503 801 zambiaskywaysoperations@gmail.com 4 TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2022
OUR FLEET: Beech Craft King Air 90 - Twin turbine engine pressurized aircraft with 8 passenger seats. Beech Craft Baron 58 - Twin engine aircraft with 5 passenger seats. Beech Craft Baron 55 - Twin engine aircraft with 4 passenger seats. Cessna 206 - Single engine aircraft with 4 passenger seats (Ideal for Cargo).
HEAD OFFICE : Hangar No. 15E Kenneth Kaunda International Airport P.O Box 50213, Lusaka, Zambia
Enjoy a customised experience, at Mukwa River Lodge and understand why Africa is such a special place, and touches the hearts of many.
Small intermit luxury lodge, based on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River, overlooking the Zimbabwe National Park. All suites with extra length king size bed, fully air conditioned, with both in-door and out-door bathing facilities, have their own plunge pools with pool lounges to soak up the African sun, and take in the natural beauty that surrounds you. Proudly using local produce, in food and beverage offerings, which will have you experience fruits and vegetables that are endemic to the area. A walking food tour of the local plants, and fruits available on the farm is on offer. The free range Mukwa chickens are also available to provide you with fresh eggs. An abundance of activities on offer, from helicopter trips over Victoria falls, to day trips into Chobe National Park in Botswana, White river rafting on the might Zambezi, Sunset river cruises, Local village tours, Victoria falls tour on both Zambia and Zimbabwe side, Walking safari, Bungee jumping and for a once in a life time experience, a swim at Devils pools, on the edge of Victoria falls. After a day filled with activities or one just relaxing at the lodge, enjoy a gym workout or a spa treatment at your leisure.
Reservations: +260 21 332 5329/ +260 96 064 9852 Email: mukwa@theresidenceportfolio.co.za Website: www.theresidenceportfolio.co.za
May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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CONTRIBUTIONS
CONTENTS
COVER Charging lioness. Mana Pools National Park. Photo credit: Lee-Anne Russell Photography.
ISSUE 21 | MAY - AUG 2022
A Word from the MD
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Inside Mukalya Private Game Reserve Escape to the Highlights
Owner Run Camp The Importance of Domestic Tourism
32 40
Publisher Safari Magazine
8 14
In the Company of Painted Wolves Hwange Under Canvas
44 47
Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala - kwisanoent@gmail.com Layout & Art Director Lyn Grandemange - grandemangelyn@gmail.com Sub-Editor Tessa Buhrmann tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Website www.zambiatravelmagazine.com
Liuwa Plains National Park The Nyika Plateau
Subscriptions kwisanoent@gmail.com +260 977 308 711
16 20 The History of Robin’s Camp
Exploring Lower Zambezi
24
Ndhlovu Drive Safari Stories
52
54 57
Contributors Thandiwe Mweetwa, Sarah Kingdom, Mukalya Private Game Reserve, Robin Pope, Leslie Nevison, Lance van de Veyver, Greg Robinson, Torrie Hilley, Art Wolfe, Lee-Anne Russell, Kyrie Taylor, LeighAnne Williams, Kim Sparrow, Garth Jenman, Barry Wohluter, Mana Brightman, Ian Thomson, Christopher Cragg, John Coppinger, Remote Africa Safaris, Kyle Branch, Mike Sutherland, Mana Meadows, Tessa Buhrmann, Tony Park, Gail Kleinschmidt, Vanessa Nielsen, Patrick Bentley Submissions We welcome editorial and photographic submissions to the magazine. Accompanying images should be sent in high-res jpg and minimum 3MB in size. Please send a synopsis of the proposed article to kwisanoent@gmail.com for consideration. Printers New Horizon Printing Press Plot # LUS/9815/H Kafue Road, Lusaka, Zambia
The Largest Bird on Earth Remembering African Wild Dogs
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Book Reviews
58 60
Copyright Copyright © All rights for material appearing in this magazine belong to Safari Magazine and/ or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or without due acknowledgement.
A WORD FROM THE MD
A WORD
WELCOME TO ISSUE 21 OF TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA & ZIMBABWE MAGAZINE.
from the MD
[
ANDREW MUSWALA
]
It is with a note of much optimism that we go to press with this issue – the worst of the pandemic seems to be behind us and there is a resurgence in the demand for travel, with both new and return visitors clamoring for bookings in Zambia and Zimbabwe. In person trade shows have resumed, with a successful WTM Africa held in Cape Town in April, and the prospects of an equally successful Tourism Indaba scheduled for early May in Durban. Dedicated exclusively to two African countries, Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine is an international voice that champions these tourism destinations in a balanced and inspiring way. Some of this issue’s special features include: The Nyika Plateau (p20), Exploring Lower Zambezi (p24), Escape to the Eastern Highlands (p40), and In the Company of Painted Wolves (p44). Elsewhere in this issue we look at The Importance of Domestic Travel (p14) and explore the wonders of Hwange National Park with Hwange Under Canvas (p47), The History of Robin’s Camp (p52) and Ndhlovu Drive (p54). We are grateful to all those companies and individuals who have embraced our objective and continue making this publication possible.
Happy Reading!
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ZAMBIA | OWNER RUN CAMP
OWNER RUN Camp [ WRITER: John Coppinger – owner of Remote Africa Safaris ] [ PHOTO: Remote Africa Safaris ]
[ 1995 Coppinger family with Mpamvu ] In 1994 my wife, Carol, and I were faced with a crossroads in our bush career. Following four years of guiding and managing at Nsefu Camp in the South Luangwa National Park, we managed Wilderness Trails Ltd for almost a decade, during which time we were based at Chibembe Lodge during the dry season and Lusaka during the rains. At that time Wilderness Trails was, by some distance, the largest private tour operator in Zambia with a portfolio of two lodges, five bushcamps (in both the North and South Luangwa) and a travel agency in Lusaka, which we set up. The company shareholders operated a high volume, low cost safari-beach tourist business in Kenya and had taken advantage of an opportunity to expand their operation into Zambia. But after eight years it had become clear to them that the Luangwa Valley would simply never fit into their business model. Despite British Airways flying three times a week directly between Lusaka and London, it was significantly more expensive than flying to Nairobi and operational costs in Zambia were vastly greater. On top of that they now realised that the rainy seasons would not permit extending the short tourist seasons. Their market segment would never withstand the rates that would have to be applied just to break even.
[ Getting around during the rains in 1996 ] 8
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They were losing interest in their Zambian investment and it was clear that we either had
OWNER RUN CAMP | ZAMBIA to start our own safari business, move on, or find an alternative means of livelihood. We had thoroughly enjoyed many years in this bush paradise but we had two young girls now and it was time to be responsible – our carefree days were over! We had forged a strong relationship with the local community and the Chief offered us a beautiful patch of land on a very scenic bend of the Luangwa River to set up our own safari operation. I will not pretend that it was an easy task to get formal permission and all the paperwork in place but in early May 1995 we found ourselves, complete with our worldly possessions, two small children, a cat and an orphan elephant, on the banks of the Luangwa River. It was indeed a beautiful spot with a spectacularly panoramic view across the river, but it was also virgin bush and we had a lot of work to do if we were to be ready to receive our first guests who were booked to arrive in July. Over the years we have observed several wealthy investors setting up lodges over a period of a number of years but we had no such luxury, with unlimited funds and the need to generate income as soon as possible. We were selling bednights before the camp even existed! We named our camp Tafika, meaning ‘we have arrived’. It has been our home ever since. In those days many camps and lodges in Zambia were owner run and nowadays even more lay claim to this tribute, but in reality very few are still truly owner run. There followed five tough but idyllic years at Tafika whilst we struggled to make ends meet. Carol home schooled our two daughters, Christine and Jenny, who in their free time played with their other sister, Mphamvu the elephant, and raised a multitude of other orphans from zebras, grysboks and bushbuck to squirrels, bushbabies and hares. They climbed trees almost as skillfully as the wild monkeys with whom they had played as infants. They completed their education firstly across the valley at Chengelo in Mkushi and finally at Rhodes University in South Africa. Jenny was born on the banks of the Luangwa River, the only ‘mzungu’ (white person) in the Mwanya Chiefdom to lay such claim. She, together with her husband Nick, now help us manage Tafika and the entire Remote Africa Safaris operation, which includes our Chikoko Walking Trails plus two camps in North Luangwa National Park: Takwela and Mwaleshi. Carol and I remain based at Tafika and still interact with our guests every day. Carol continues to manage the accounts and we are still both involved in general management decisions. True to our promise back in the mid-nineties, we have ensured that our presence directly benefits our local community. This is such an important aspect of wildlife conservation which all responsible tourism operators should embrace. Historically our people are subsistence farmers, totally reliant on their annual crop of maize or millet and more
[ John Coppinger ] May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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ZAMBIA | OWNER RUN CAMP recently some cash crops such as cotton and sunflowers. Needless to say, the surrounding wildlife poses a serious threat to their gardens – a family group of elephants, for instance, can destroy a farmer’s entire crop of maize overnight. Big game such as elephant, hippo, lion and buffalo roam freely and are a very real threat to villagers moving about. Crocodiles are plentiful in the river, streams and lagoons and are particularly dangerous during the rainy season when rivers are in full spate. Lions and leopards are attracted to villages, tempted by village dogs, which they regularly kill.
[ The office ]
So, unless people can realise some direct benefit from wildlife it is understandable that they will have little incentive to protect it. In our early years there was no clinic at our local village. Carol has a medical background and she had already earned a reputation for tending to sick villagers whilst at Chibembe. So, it was not long before a group of patients would appear at camp most mornings seeking medical attention. Very quickly this became too much work for Carol and so, with the permission and guidance of the Health Department, we built a Clinic. The Tafika Fund was born in 1998 and through this fund over $600,000 has since been channelled for such projects as well as for funding of teachers at the local school, sponsorships of school pupils and college students and a football league. To fund this initiative we deduct $5 per bednight from each guest’s stay, receive donations from guests and regularly top up from our own business. The administration of the Fund has been an herculean task, undertaken for many years by Carol and now Jenny, for no monetary reward.
On top of this we employ up to a hundred people each season in a community where there is almost no other opportunity for employment. I believe that in rural Zambia this can be multiplied by a factor of six to get an approximate figure for the number of beneficiaries, which amounts to six hundred people.
revenue it was mandatory that we lived as frugally as possible to get our business on its feet. In more recent years we built a ‘Summer Palace’ in Lusaka to which we retreat every off season.
Not only are we proud of our good relationship with our community but believe that it is a crucial element contributing to the conservation of the surrounding area and it’s wildlife.
However April is always eagerly anticipated as this is the time that we return to Tafika, where we spend seven months of each year. The sounds of traffic, loud music, hammering, angle grinders and other irritations of city life are left behind and replaced by the calls of hippo, lions, hyaena and birdsong…and we know we have returned to our spiritual home.
For fifteen years we lived full time at Tafika, isolated every rainy season for four to five months when road access is impossible. With such a small window of opportunity to earn
We look forward to receiving guests once more, many of whom have returned time and again and become good friends. Our camps remain not only truly owner run but family run.
[ Orphans on the beach ] 10
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ZAMBIA | DOMESTIC TOURISM
The Importance of
DOMESTIC TOURISM [ WRITER / PHOTO: Thandiwe Mweetwa ] When the Covid-19 pandemic hit in 2020, the travel industry suffered a major blow. One that was reminiscent of the 2008 financial meltdown which saw the international travel market crash. Non-essential travel ground to a halt and this spelt doom for tourist destinations across the globe. Holidays were cancelled for the foreseeable future and businesses were crippled, in turn causing them to lay off workers. Our little town of Mfuwe, where the local economy is dependent almost entirely on tourism, was not spared. I watched as family and friends lost much needed income. Because of travel restrictions aimed at reducing the spread of Covid-19, there were not many options open for holidaymakers. This saw those that had international holidays cancelled turn to domestic destinations for some much needed rest and relaxation. The importance of domestic tourism became more apparent as the pandemic wore on. For many months, there were very few tourists and the ones that came were from within the country. They helped cushion the impacts of the pandemic by bringing in some much needed income. For small businesses, I believe this may have actually been the lifeline that saved them from total collapse. This article is meant to make a case for domestic tourism especially for the hesitant traveller. I am also going to be dispelling some myths about domestic travel, sharing potential places to visit, with my backyard South Luangwa as an example, and sharing some tips on how to make domestic travel a fun experience. In Bemba, there is a proverb that says “Umwana ashenda atasha Nina ukunaya”. The loose translation is that a child that never travels thinks that the mother cooks the best food in the whole world. This proverb encapsulates very well the notion that travel enriches our lives and broadens our horizons. The people we meet and the places we visit have the potential to provide unique, life-changing experiences while reconnecting us to our motherland. Travel enables us to experience the hospitality of different tribes and I believe this helps humanise those we may have viewed as ‘other’. Zambia is a beautiful country and when we get to see different corners of it for ourselves, it awakens an undeniable sense of national pride. There is always something exciting about setting foot on places that we have only previously learned about in books or through TV e.g. Victoria Falls or Ing’ombe Ilede.
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DOMESTIC TOURISM | ZAMBIA about a 1.5hr drive. By air, Proflight Zambia has multiple flights a week direct from Lusaka and sometimes through Lower Zambezi. Nearly every week, they announce discounted fares going for nearly a third of the regular price.
Misconceptions about domestic tourism •
Too expensive Many people do not know that it is possible to have a fulfilling travel experience on a budget. Although the tourism industry in Zambia could be diversified in terms of the price range of packages, there are a number of budget options at many destinations. These include the option of self-drive, catering and camping.
•
Only for foreigners There is a common misconception that travelling, especially to national parks and wild places is something done by foreigners. Activities like hiking are also seen as something only certain demographics engage in. Being out in nature is rejuvenating no matter one’s race, sex or creed.
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Dangerous Zambia is one of the safest countries in Africa and travelling around the country is usually incident-free. Culturally, we are taught to be kind to visitors so people are usually very friendly and helpful. Most Zambian languages have proverbs that touch on the transiency of travellers and the need to treat them well such as “Mlendo ni mame” in Nyanja (“Guests are like dew drops”).
usually have specials especially around holidays and special times of year. Many of them also have resident rates. A combination of these can help make your adventure affordable. •
Take the self-catering option to save money If staying somewhere for a few days that has self-catering facilities, use them. Buying groceries and making your own meals usually works out cheaper than ordering. This is a great money saver if you are travelling on a budget.
Places to visit with South Luangwa as an example There are a wide range of tourist attractions in Zambia ranging from natural wonders, archeological sites and modern holiday resorts. Many of them are accessible by road and or by air. For local Zambians, the best place to start when looking for places to visit is to look at the list of tourist attractions we learnt about in Geography or History class. Below, I give an example of South Luangwa National Park (SLNP) as a sample destination. •
•
Where to stay There is a wide selection of high end, medium range and budget accommodation. For those willing and able to pay a little bit more, there is a selection of safari lodges that provide accommodation with scenic views of the Luangwa River or wildlife rich lagoons. For the budget traveller, there are comfortable lodges with rates for air-conditioned (a bonus in the hot season) rooms starting as low as K350.
•
What to do Many people come to South Luangwa for its incredible game viewing. There is the option of booking safaris with one of the established world-famous lodges and being guided by some of the best guides in Africa. This is a particularly good option for those that have the financial means and value modern creature comforts with a bush touch. For people with 4x4 vehicles, self-driving is a great option that allows travellers to explore SLNP at their own pace. There are also private guides with private vehicles who conduct safaris with prices starting at K450 per person. This is a great way to support up and coming local tourism entrepreneurs.
All in all, domestic tourism has the potential to be a key accelerator for national development while developing a sense of pride in our natural and cultural heritage. Let’s get out and explore Zambia!
How to get there SLNP is accessed both by road and by air. Taking the T4 (Great East) road from Lusaka on car hire service, public transport or self-drive will bring you to Chipata, where you can connect to Mfuwe after
Tips •
Travel with friends For first time travellers that are nervous about going it alone, there is nothing wrong with seeking safety in numbers. Tagging a friend or two along will help make your trip a very enjoyable experience.
•
Be Flexible and have an open mind There is a common saying that ‘No plan survives first contact”. Even the best laid plans can fall apart and this can be quite stressful. In such times just take a deep breath and enjoy the road and wherever it takes you.
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Look out for specials and promotions Tour operators and transport companies May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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ZAMBIA | LIUWA PLAIN NATIONAL PARK
LIUWA PLAIN National Park
[ WRITER / PHOTO: Leslie Nevison ]
It is classic ‘Out of Africa’ cinematography passing by our windows; the movie scenes which bring people to Africa in search of them, some of whom never leave. But this isn’t a case of art imitating life. A small herd of zebra avoids our approaching vehicles, which groan in low gear on deflated tyres through the sand, and trots in unhurried unison through waving grasses. Early rain has turned the zebras’ world green overnight, as if by a wizard’s touch. Rain IS magic at the end of Africa’s long dry season. Dampened sand is also a much easier surface to drive on – your wheels don’t dig in as much.
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LIUWA PLAIN NATIONAL PARK | ZAMBIA
This is my fourth visit to Liuwa Plain National Park in Western Zambia. My first visit was with Robin Pope Safaris during the pre-Facebook (FB) era. There were so many things which made that visit special other than the fact none of us yet cared about social media. Robin Pope himself was our guide. We stayed at Matamanene Camp, which was still frequented by Lady Liuwa, the last remaining lion of the Barotse Plain after trophy hunters decimated every one of her companions. It was the month of April. I remember incredible indigo and purple sunsets; a profusion of wildflowers; trees full of nesting cattle egrets and great white egrets; large hyena populations in the absence of competitive predators; and herds of red lechwe. I met Lady Liuwa where she rested in a shady tree line. Sadly, she never brushed by my Matamanene tent, alerting me to her presence, which I understood was her custom with the South African cameraman Herbert Brauer who assisted in documenting Lady’s solitary life for the National Geographic film, The Last Lioness. I saw the Zambezi River in flood when we flew over it to land in Kalabo town. In the pre-FB era, flying to Liuwa was the only feasible option to get there. I saw Lady a few more times on subsequent Liuwa visits when I stayed at community campsites and Time + Tide’s King Lewanika Lodge, the first and still the only permanent luxury accommodation in Liuwa and named after the 19th century King of Barotseland who kept Liuwa as his private hunting reserve, later turning over its custody to his people. By 2009,
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ZAMBIA | LIUWA PLAIN NATIONAL PARK Lady was no longer alone. African Parks, which took over the management of Liuwa in 2004, was successful in relocating lions after a period of trial and error. Lady died of natural causes in 2017, leaving behind a thriving pride of her kind, although she herself never had offspring. I have a framed photo of Lady which I cherish. It was captured by one of Robin Pope’s team during that pre-FB visit. The photographer opened her Matamanene tent and discovered that the Lady had come to visit. After driving a section of the Great West Road between Kaoma and Mongu towns, you could be forgiven for thinking that flying remains the best way to get to Liuwa. But if you fly then you miss the engineering marvel of the 34-kilometre-long Barotse Causeway which consists of 26 bridges spanning the Zambezi River and the Barotse floodplain. Under construction since 2002, the causeway finally opened in 2016 at a reported eye-watering final cost of some 287 million USD. Expensive yes, but the causeway is a game changer for the people of Western Zambia. Linking Mongu and Kalabo towns, travel time by road between the two is reduced to less than one hour. It used to take four to six hours by boat. It opens trade routes with Angola and improves access to Liuwa Plain National Park without detracting too much from its magnificent isolation. The causeway is one of the more scenic drives in Zambia. There are lay-bys every few kilometres where you can pull over and enjoy the floodplain below with its Lozi fishing communities and fishermen in mukolos, the
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local Lozi people’s word for their dugout canoes. My fourth visit to Liuwa is in early December. The last two months of the calendar year are good months to come to Liuwa because the rainy season sets a 30,000-member blue wildebeest and 4,000-strong plains zebra migration in motion, the second largest on the African continent in a cycle which includes Angola and Zambia. After the onset of the heavy rains at the beginning of the year, the Zambezi River eventually floods and Liuwa becomes inaccessible. The next high season is in April and May, after the waters retreat. This is the best time for dedicated birders. We travel in a convoy of two vehicles, which is a good idea when you are driving on sand and can help if one of the vehicles gets stuck. (A word of caution: it seems that Liuwa’s lions like to rest in the areas of deepest sand!) We stay for the first time at Sibika Camp, a self-catering accommodation which African Parks opened in 2020 and a two-hour drive from Kalabo in the southern part of the park. African Parks has a winning idea with Sibika. It consists of four privately spaced and shaded
chalets, each with twin beds with mosquito nets, ensuite loos and solar-powered hot water showers. Each chalet comes with an outdoor kitchen with gas cooker and refrigerator (also solar powered) and nicely equipped cupboards. There are camp chairs and a table on each chalet’s private deck and a central outdoor meeting area between the four chalets where a group travelling together can meet for sundowners. Wine glasses and even a cafetière are provided! We collect a scout at the African Parks office on the way to Sibika who remains with us for the duration of our stay. He is very keen to show us Liuwa’s growing lion population, the Lady’s legacy. But we are determined to simply enjoy the plains and what nature chooses to share with us. And all the while, we have Liuwa’s magnificent space and big skies to ourselves.
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ZAMBIA | THE NYIKA PLATEAU
The
NYIKA PLATEAU [ WRITER / PHOTO: Robin Pope ]
To many who know Zambia, the name Nyika Plateau evokes a wistful sigh with the comment ‘one for the bucket list’. To those who have visited the Nyika this name conjures up images of misty highlands, steep escarpments cloaked in sub montane forest, open montane grasslands, trout fishing, roaring fires in the grate, always a fresh wind, the sounds of unusual birds singing from the grasslands and forests and the smell of bracken and pine. The Nyika Plateau massif an area of some 4500 square kms straddles the Zambian/Malawi international border, located some 1200kms north east of Lusaka . In geological terms the Nyika is a large plateau which sits at the separation of the Luangwa fault from the African rift valley. The plateau was created by the tectonic movements and erosion cycles that also created the southern rift mountains. The sides of the massif are steep, dissected by deep river valleys, and the lower slopes are covered by Miombo woodland. Above 1800m the miombo declines and is replaced with mixed Protea and Masuku (Uapaka species) and above 2000m, grasslands and bracken briar and heaths predominate across the undulating plateau. The grassland is dissected with stream and river valleys interspersed with montane and sub-montane forest patches. Standing on the edge of the plateau looking west there are magnificent views of the distant Makutu and Mafinga mountains of eastern Zambia. The blues of these distant mountains gets lighter the further one looks. From the eastern edge at the Kasaramba view point, views of Lake Malawi can be glimpsed and to the north east the Livingstone mountains of southern Tanzania are visible on a clear day.
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One is really perched close to the junction of the three countries at an elevation of some 2250m (7381 ft). The highest peak on the Nyika is Nganda peak with a height of 2607m (8553 ft) above sea level. The original inhabitants of the countryside surrounding the Nyika were/are the Akafula, later the Phoka-Tumbuka peoples known for their iron smelting skills. It is thought that historically the high Nyika was not extensively settled due to its elevation, temperature and soil type. In the 1940s a portion of the Nyika was declared a forest reserve to protect the isolated endangered remnant Juniper Forest. This wood has the most wonderful fragrance. The grassland extent covering the top of the plateau was rich in wildlife and became a nonhunting area in the 1950s. An experimental plantation of blue gum, pine, and wattle was planted over 522ha. The Malawi Nyika became a National Park in 1965 after independence. The Zambian Nyika originally was an extension of the Northern Lundazi Forest reserve and became a National Park in 1972. I first travelled to the Nyika with my parents and brothers in 1963 and we have repeated this journey many times. It is a journey of
some 1200 kms from Lusaka, requiring a few overnight stops. There is the option of including some of the interesting and worthwhile diversions on the way such as the Luangwa Valley with its wildlife reserves and the Vipya escarpment across the border in Malawi, created by the same tectonic processes which formed the Nyika. The Vipya has extensive forestry plantations and extraordinary granite inselbergs and good birding. There are a few places to stay in the Vipya. Another excellent, although longer, extension to a Nyika journey is Lake Malawi, known evocatively as the Lake of Stars. It is the third deepest freshwater lake in the world. Nyika highland provides a critical water reservoir and catchment for streams and rivers which then flow off the Nyika to the Luangwa valley in the west and Lake Malawi in the east and provides life giving water to farms and people living below. The international border between Zambia and Malawi bisects the Nyika National Parks with 10% of the park lying in Zambian side and 90% on the Malawi side. These two national parks have been amalgamated into a trans-frontier national park, managed by Peace Parks Foundation in partnership with the Departments of Wildlife of Zambia and Malawi. In the 1986 the Pope’s association with the Nyika became more focussed when Robin Pope Safaris undertook the long-term lease of the old government rest house and our tenure there lasted ten years. This rustic eight bed Zambian Rest House overlooks eastern Zambia at an altitude of 2286m (7500 ft). It has a great
THE NYIKA PLATEAU | ZAMBIA deal of history attached to it. Built originally by the Northern Rhodesia Government in 1946, later managed by the Game department, NPWS, Zambia National Tourist Board, Zambia Tours and Lodges, Country hotels, and the District Council. It was a joy to re-invigorate and restore this rest house in the mid 80’s. It enjoyed a new lease of life as a fully equipped, self-catering rest house. The staff were well trained and had their homes at the base of the Nyika. Interestingly one had trained as a cook on Robben Island when Nelson Mandela was incarcerated there. The country on this western ‘Zambian’ side of the Nyika is more varied with areas extensively covered by Protea which flower in March to May. Two largest sub montane forests patches on the top of the Nyika are on the Zambian side. Arguably Zambia’s highest peak, Mwanda Peak 2148m (7147 ft) stands sentinel at the south boundary of the park and on its slopes are historic potshards from the iron smelting period. This peak has some extraordinary rock formations, it is a good area to find the rare white-headed saw-wing swallow. In the last few years, the Zambian Rest house has again been renovated, this time by Peace Parks/DNPW, who are looking for a company to lease it. The Malawi side of the Nyika has three accommodation options: a well-equipped lodge, four self-catering cottages and a camp site. There are three dams which are stocked with trout and a network of game viewing roads, options for walking, game viewing activities and mountain biking.
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ZAMBIA | THE NYIKA PLATEAU
Generally, one encounters a larger number of game within a 10km radius of the lodge and camps. The further one travels away from this tourism development the less game is seen. However, further out are spectacular view points, historic sites, peaks to climb, great walks and absolutely magnificent views. During the dry season prevailing easterly winds blowing from the coast of Africa and across lake Malawi, mushroom up over this massif, bringing bracing cool weather, mists and guti/ chiperoni- (London-like rain). Temperatures can fall below zero degrees in the winter months of June and July. The lowest recorded temperature of -12 degrees Celcius was recorded in the 1950s. During the rains, moisture laden winds break against the sides of the escarpment, then welling up cauldron-like over the escarpment edges bringing mists and storms full of heavy rain to this plateau. This trans-frontier national park is a critical island of biodiversity in a land of increasing population and settlement. The Nyika TFCA has 460 species of birds recorded, including one endemic and a few near endemic species. A number of the bird species are palearctic or intra-African migrants who move south and north depending on the season, temperature and the movement of the rain belt. Ninetynine species of mammal occur on the Nyika including a large number of rodents and bats. The most commonly seen larger mammals
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are roan antelope, eland, reedbuck, zebra, bushbuck, duiker (common, blue and red forest), hyena, leopard and very occasional lion. There are increasing number of elephant sightings as elephant seek the refuge of the high Nyika for safety from settlement and poaching pressure around the park. There are an amazing number of species of butterfly; 150, of which three are endemic to the Nyika. During the rains there is a very rich orchid flora with over 150 species of beautiful terrestrial orchid of which 33 are endemic and 13 near endemic. The magnificent mysterious relic montane and sub-montane forest which cloaks the eastern escarpment and patches on the western side, are alive with the sounds of unusual forest species of bird and insect. A number of the forest tree species such as the Entandrophragma, Aningeria, Podocarpus and Ficus species are massive, growing to over 55m tall. They are the mothers of the forest and support a fascinating host of plant and animal communities living and growing on their branches and trunks and feeding on their fruit. One is dwarfed by the huge tree trunks festooned with lianas and monkey ropes, a church like quietness prevails in the lower canopy. Higher up one can hear the cries of a host of forest birds. Samango monkeys and black and red squirrel also frequent these forests. Occasional rustles in the leaf litter indicate blue forest duiker or chequered sengi (elephant shrew). Leopard use the forests for
hunting. These forests are essential and safe nesting sites for some of the larger species of raptor (birds of prey). Eagles such as the crowned and black eagle soar over the forests and may be sighted ridge surfing along the escarpment edges. As a naturalist, lover of mountains and vast views, seeker of unusual birds and plants and someone who is most happy in nature, Nyika ranks as one of my favourite destinations and I endeavour to continue to visit for a few weeks on an annual basis.
We offer tailored and scheduled tours guided by Zambia’s best birders and naturalists, for you to enjoy Zambia’s astounding wilderness areas and its 782 bird species. Scheduled tours for 2022 include Bangweulu Wetland (June), Mwinilunga (September), Nyika and Mafinga Mountains (October) and Pitta tour (December).
w w w.Bi rdi ngZam b i a. com | w w w.fac e b o o k.co m/Bird in g Za mb ia | B ird in g Za mb ia @g ma il.com
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ZAMBIA | EXPLORING LOWER ZAMBEZI
Exploring
LOWER ZAMBEZI [ WRITER: Kyle Branch ] [ PHOTO: Mana Meadows ] The pitch of the aircraft evens out after take-off from Lusaka and within the blink of an eye you are over the mesmerizing layers of the blue-green coloured mountains that make up the Lower Zambezi Escarpment. The next shift in the plane comes with a lazy left turn to the east. The wing dips and the shining silver serpent of one of the largest rivers in Africa disappears towards Mozambique in your window, a scene that captures one’s heart forever. The flight path follows the Lower Zambezi towards Jeki airstrip, the excitement running
deep in the veins of people passionate for a Safari in untamed Africa.
the most spectacular wildlife destinations on this continent.
Alongside the landing strip there is a herd of elephant being led by their matriarch over the warm surface of Jeki plains towards the soothing green winterthorn woodland and the promise of water. The first footstep off of the aircraft is greeted by the warm air of one of
The Lower Zambezi National Park is almost a million hectares of pristine bush- with the catena effect creating a diverse set of habitats ranging from the rocky escarpment and Miombo woodland, down to combretum and Jesse bush thicket, ox bow lakes surrounded by acacia savannahs and finally a magnificent cathedral of winterthorn that line the banks of the surging Zambezi.
[ PHOTO: Kyle Branch ]
There is no better way to experience the vast web of insects, birds and animals that serve a special purpose in the life cycle of these habitats, than by the guiding of Zambia’s most passionate guides. Guides that have not only studied for years in the bush but have also grown up offline too- guides that live and breath for tracking leopards and lion but will sit and watch Livingstone’s flycatchers for hours or search thickets for weeks to find African pittas. The secret to this park lies not just in the surrounds but the experience- there are not too many places in Africa where you Safari on land AND water! Boating on the Lower Zambezi: This allows for the sighting of many diverse species of aquatic birds with very different photographic angles to those on game drives.
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EXPLORING LOWER ZAMBEZI | ZAMBIA There is nothing like sneaking through islands and sand bars searching for African skimmers or watching a large herd of elephants swim and play through the deeper water to get across to reed beds in the middle of the river. What about the thrill and the glee on an anglers face as they fight a large tigerfish on a fly or spinning rod?
[ PHOTO: Kyle Branch ]
When hippos and crocodiles have been talked about and the last aquatic birds have been spotted from the boat- it’s perfect timing for a game drive. Game drives: With a wild dog pack of nearly 40 individuals that fancy hunting a buffalo now and again it gets very interesting on the floodplains! The winterthorn woodlands provide ample shade with many “leopard” branches, and coupled with an outrageous density of leopard, it provides outstanding moments almost daily. Plains game, reptiles and other special fauna and flora are in abundance, keeping the guides and their guests busy for days. Walking safaris: Time MUST be set aside for a few walking safaris through this paradise. It begins with all ears tuned to the birds waking up and eyes focused on the golden light starting to filter through the woodland. A hippo ambles down the same hippo path the group are using- the guide politely gives it space. The next encounter - a large bull elephant- will he stand on his hind legs or not? Aquatic, woodland and grassland birds advertise their presence 360 degrees around the walkers while the guide and back-up guide
set up the tools needed for a quality tea stop and short rest.
as herons hunt close by and kingfishers fly low trying to steal prey from each other.
On the way back to camp the liquid gold form of a leopard, slides along the white sand of a dry river bed, and after re-adjusting the walk direction for a herd of buffalo, camp materializes from the tree trunks with happy smiles welcoming you back.
Often the lions corner and kill prey against the edge of the channels or are sleeping in the damp grass nearby.
Canoeing, and no engine involved- you and nature only! The narrow channels that break from main river Zambezi make for some of the best and peaceful viewing there is in Africa. Safely settled in the canoe, the silent approach to large and small creatures is out of this world! The guide shares information softly
A sunset follows you into camp- silence settles over the canoes as the sun disappears into an orange and red glimmer on the water- nothing needing to be said in a moment that no human forgets. If it’s about time to take a break from the constant noise of media and technology, then Lower Zambezi National Park should be on that flight ticket.
[ PHOTO: Mike Sutherland ]
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KASANKA NATIONAL PARK
CANOEING Kasanka Trust is offering a 3 hour canoeing experience on the Luwombwa River at $30 per person during the 2022 season. Enjoy birdwatching as you paddle downstream.
CAMPINGThe wilderness trail in Kasanka runs for 3 days from Wasa Lodge to Luwombwa River, via Chikufwe plains where you can see amazing sable, elephants and buffalo in the wild. Camping is only $25 per person per night.
CYCLING Kasanka offers a wilderness adventure trail for 3 nights, leaving Wasa Lodge and cycling to Luwombwa River (bikes available to hire at only $20 per person per day).
All these activities are supported by an escort scout, safari guide and chef to offer you a memorable adventure. These activities bring you in close view of the large puku concentration along Kasanka River and allow interactions with the endangered Sitaunga.
Email: localres@kasanka.com Website: www.kasanka.com
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ZAMBIA | AFRICAN WILD DOGS
Remembering
AFRICAN WILD DOGS [ WRITER: Sarah Kingdom ]
[ PHOTO: Lance van de Veyver, Greg Robinson, Torrie Hilley, Art Wolfe ]
Currently listed as endangered by the IUCN, with only 6,600 individuals (and about 700 breeding pairs) remaining in the wild, African wild dogs are one of the continent’s most captivating carnivores and one of its most endangered species. Once found all over Africa, their numbers have drastically declined over the last 100 years. Seen as pests by farmers and blamed for livestock deaths (more often than not the work of lions or hyenas) they are often poisoned, or can catch distemper and rabies from domestic dogs. African wild dogs require huge ranges and habitat fragmentation has caused their decline. Nowadays populations are limited to pockets of wildlife sanctuaries and reserves. Thankfully the African wild dog has undergone a very good PR makeover in the last few years, and is now one of the most sought after safari sightings. Easily recognisable with their tan, black and white coats, each as unique as a fingerprint, wild dogs are highly social animals, living in packs led by an alpha male and female. These are highly successful hunters, with a success rate of around 80% (remarkable considering lions average 30%). Hunting in packs, that number anywhere from five to forty, adult wild dogs unite to become an awesome killing machine, communicating constantly with birdlike chirrups and hoots. These are prodigious athletes, able to outrun almost any creature over long distances. Using stamina to overcome their prey, they can maintain an impressive 50km/hr for extended periods of time, occasionally reaching top speeds of 70km/hr… basically running their prey to exhaustion. Wild dogs ability to coordinate their moves, combined with their relentless running skills,
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enables them to take down animals over ten times their size, and literally tear them limb from limb at an astonishing rate; eating pretty much the entire carcass… right down to the eye balls! After a hunt, the pack will usually return to the den, where they regurgitate some of their kill for pups, as well as old or injured pack members. Unlike other social carnivores, wild dogs have an extraordinary social dynamic and the whole pack works together to raise a litter of pups, even if that means letting them feed first on a kill. “Zambia is one of only six remaining countries considered as strongholds for wild dogs on the entire continent,” says Dr Chuma Simukonda, Director of the Zambia Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DPNW). Kafue National Park, the largest protected area in Zambia and the second largest national park in Africa,
contains significant numbers of wild dogs, believed to be the largest number in any national park in Africa. The Luangwa Valley (comprised of North and South Luangwa National Parks and Luambe National Park) is estimated to be home to approximately 350 adult wild dogs, the largest population of wild dogs in Zambia. Also in Zambia, DPNW, in partnership with African Parks recently translocated three wild dogs (sourced from Kafue National Park) to Liuwa Plains National Park, this initial group of females will be supplemented with additional male wild dogs in the coming weeks. Wild dogs are amongst my favourite animals to see on safari. One of my most memorable encounters was in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park, when late one afternoon we sat, silently watching a pack of sixteen wild dogs who lay napping in a shady depression, camouflaged by their mottled coats. Aside from the occasional flick of a tail, the pack lay inert. As the sun sank lower in the sky, the dogs woke, one by one, yawning and stretching. Getting to their feet, the pack members exchanged elaborate greetings… whimpering as they sniffed, smelt and licked one another. Gradually they became livelier; prancing and playing. There was a light hearted atmosphere amongst the pack as they gambolled together, waiting for the last few deep sleepers to stir.
AFRICAN WILD DOGS | ZAMBIA Play time over, it was time to get to work, and the pack readied themselves for the night’s hunt, before disappearing off into the setting sun. Whilst a wild dog sighting like this may be memorable, it is not common. Nowadays wild dog populations are limited to pockets of wildlife sanctuaries and reserves, and they remain under threat with population numbers continuing to decline. Fortunately there are people and projects committed to saving this special species. One such person is Margot Raggett, and one such project is the stunning Remembering Wildlife series of photography books. Margot gave up a career as CEO of a London PR company and came to Africa to follow her love of wildlife photography. Her plans changed, when in Kenya in 2014, she came across the carcass of a poached elephant. Deeply affected by this, Margot was determined to do something about it. She spent months persuading some of the world’s best wildlife photographers to donate photographs she could include in what she planned would be “the most beautiful book on a species ever seen”, the sale of which would raise funds for elephant conservation. The book, Remembering Elephants, was launched in 2016. After the success of Remembering Elephants, Margot was inspired to push on, and next came Remembering Rhinos, then Remembering Great Apes, followed by Remembering Lions and Remembering Cheetahs. Five years of ‘camera-derie’, 200 donated images, and five books later, the Remembering Wildlife fundraising photography book series, has raised over $1.1 million for conservation, and has just released the sixth and latest book in the series, Remembering African Wild Dogs.
Altogether more than 32,000 books from the Remembering Wildlife series have been sold, and the series has distributed over a million dollars to conservation projects across Africa and Asia. Profits from the books have gone to 55 conservation projects in 24 countries, including Zambia, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Malawi, Ethiopia, South Africa, Namibia, Mozambique and Uganda, with all profits being given directly to projects focussing on the species that each book is focused on. Following on from the incredible success of the series, the sixth and latest book, Remembering African Wild Dogs, was recently launched. The book is beautiful. Full of stunning photos, donated by more than 80 of the world’s top wildlife photographers. Remembering African Wild Dogs aims to demystify the species, raise awareness of their plight and raise funds to protect them. Donations have already been made from the profits of Remembering African Wild Dogs, the first was $25,000 given to the Endangered Wildlife Trust to support the successful reintroduction of African wild dogs into Malawi, in association with African Parks, after decades of absence. An additional $25,000 has just been given to the project to be put towards their emergency response fund (including snare removal, veterinary care and human-wild dog conflict mitigation), vaccinations, follow ups to the Malawi translocation and work to ensure genetic diversity in populations.
These donations take the amount distributed by the Remembering Wildlife programme as a whole to USD$1.159 million with further donations to additional wild dog projects scheduled in the coming months. How Does It All Work? Unlike many fundraising organisations Remembering Wildlife runs as a business and not as a charity. Unlike most charities, they don’t ask for donations, instead they sell you something beautiful, a book or a print, and promise that 100% of the profits will go to conservation projects. In addition, Remembering Wildlife, marked its fifth anniversary with the launch of an online print shop, where a selection of images from the whole collection are available for purchase. These are images by some of the best wildlife photographers on the planet. Profits from the sale of prints are to be shared between Remembering Wildlife and the photographers themselves, not only as a thank you for their support but also in acknowledgement of the difficulties wildlife photographers have faced during the pandemic. To purchase copies of these beautiful books just go online to buyrememberingwildlife.com, to purchase prints online go to rememberingwildlife.photoshelter.com/index.
A $25,000 donation has also been made to the Zambian Carnivore Programme for the purchase of eight satellite collars, along with field equipment for monitoring wild dogs, to aid anti-snaring and co-existence activity.
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WINES | SOUTH AFRICA
CELEBRATING A
30 YEAR LEGACY
CHUNDUKWA RIVER LODGE & ZAMBIAN HORSEBACK SAFARIS
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SPONSORED
THE STORY OF DOUG EVANS. CELEBRATING A 30 YEAR LEGACY. [ WRITER: Gail Kleinschmidt
]
/ Vanessa Nielsen
Doug’s passion for both horses and wildlife started at a young age, growing up amidst wildlife, with hands-on learning alongside his mother - who nursed and hand-reared orphan rhino, elephant, buffalo, eland and anything else on behalf of National Parks. On a horse since the age of two, Doug participated in his first gymkhana aged six years and, growing older, was known to disappear for weeks at a time into the wilderness on horseback.
Doug opted to build the river chalets on stilts so that guests would feel the synergy – to be immersed in the riverine forest and river, without affecting the natural movement of hippos and river life along its banks. Doug explains that he built it in such a way to take no vegetation out. ‘It was quite mission to get the stilts in. We had to sink 44-gallon drums into the riverbed, put the poles in there and pour concrete. All manually of course!’ The walls are made from hessian, Kalahari sand and cement. Thirty years later, Chundukwa River Lodge retains its immersive nature, but has developed into a luxurious eco-lodge on the Zambezi River. Sitting just 25kms from Victoria Falls, we are close enough for guests to experience all that our beautiful destination in Southern Zambia has to offer - yet far enough to offer a quiet ‘off the beaten track’ sanctuary, tucked away in nature. On our horse ranch with a large active stable yard, we enjoy an abundance of space for horse trails, bush meanders and birdwatching in our indigenous gardens and lagoons. This is a place where you really can put your feet up, relax and have a holiday! A place you may feel completely content in doing nothing at all – and with the option to be as adventurous as you want.
[ PHOTO: Gail Kleinschmidt ] [ Your host Doug Evans, a conservationist who has been exploring,
observing and championing wild places in Zambia for over forty years.
]
Doug developed his knowledge of wildlife with a posting at National Parks – here his work in wildlife management and conservation included the capture and relocation of wildlife, as well as training of horses to work in wildlife areas for anti-poaching patrol work. On his return to the Zambezi, Doug’s ambition was to share his Africa – the bush and wildlife in an immersive mobile safari experience in the Zambian wilderness. In 1992, Chundukwa River Lodge was created as the base camp, four small rustic chalets built on a shoestring budget with Doug’s lifetime savings – a small government pension from National Parks. And so Chundukwa was born! An adventurous spirit, Doug would ride his horses to the airport to collect guests. In the early days of course, he laughs, this was possible. At that time there was only Mokoro Quest operating under Colin and Mary Lowe and one other lodge - our neighbours at Tongabezi who were building. When I first met Doug, says Gail, his partner, we’d sit in the afternoons at the stables and count 150 elephants walk by on their way to dink at the River. Those were special days!
[ PHOTO: Gail Kleinschmidt ] [
Wake up with the sun from your luxurious river chalet and peer out over the magnificent Zambezi River, place of the wild. Sit back and watch the river come to life with colours, sights & sounds.
]
Owner-run by Doug and Gail, we are dedicated to three activities: the hosting of guests; working together with our community to promote sustainable living practices; and the running of our stables and horse safari operations at home and in the Simalaha Wildlife Conservancy – Zambian Horseback Safaris, a place where Doug’s dream of leading horse lovers on multi-day rides in remote wilderness has finally come true. Chundukwa River Lodge 2022 Offers – please refer to our website for more information. Zambezi Getaway 2022 Your River Retreat – Take 10 A Night on Us – Pay 3 Stay 4 Self-Cater at Chundu Cottage Chundu Cottage Long-Stay Getaway Horse Safari & Victoria Falls – A 7 Night Story
[ PHOTO: Patrick Bentley ]
www.chundukwariverlodge.com www.zambianhorsebacksafaris.com
[ Celebrating 30 Years! ] May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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BOOK REVIEW
HISTORY OF KAFUE PARK by Gill Staden The History of Kafue Park tells the stories of the people who used to live in the park and the surrounding area before it became a wildlife reserve. It covers the Ila, Kaonde and Nkoya people who hunted and farmed the land, battling each other and the wildlife which surrounded them. It tells how these people interacted with their neighbours, the Lozi, Tonga, Sala and Lenje, and how they coped with the invading Kololo and Matabele who arrived with their trained warriors to steal and kill. The Mambari slave traders from the west entered the park to capture people for sale, pillaging and burning villages as they went. When the Europeans arrived, it was the missionaries who came to spread Christianity. They were followed by British administrators who built forts and bomas where often just one officer was left to look after a vast district with no roads, just scuffled footpaths between villages. At first, they walked or were carried in a machila (hammock), then they used the bicycle. Horses could not survive for long in tsetse-flyridden Kafue and cars had not been invented, but the mining companies brought in traction engines of which hundreds plied the roads built for them. With the importation of guns, wildlife was easy to shoot for the pot or for sport. There were, at first, no thoughts about conservation of wildlife because there was so much of it. But then the inevitable happened and some places were empty of wildlife. The book tells of the research and discussions which went on before wildlife reserves were set aside to conserve the flora and fauna, and how tourism changed from being hunting tourism to photographic tourism. Kafue Wildlife Reserve was the largest with men like Norman Carr and Barry Shenton
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K O O B W E I V E R ED A TALK y AFRIC d.co.za/ b s w ie ev lke Book R www.africata https://
employed to build camps and construct roads throughout. With Independence, the government had little resources to invest in the parks which brought about the decline of Kafue Park but then world attention on African wildlife brought about a reversal of Kafue’s fortunes with experts and funds being brought in from overseas. We do not know how Kafue Park will look in twenty years’ time but its history is important for future plans. I enjoyed writing it and I hope others will enjoy reading it. It is available on Amazon.
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ZIMBABWE | ESCAPE TO THE HIGHLANDS
Escape to
[ Mutarazi SkyWalk ]
THE HIGHLANDS [ WRITER: Mana Brightman of Wild Goat Travel ] [ Aberfoyle Lodge ]
[ PHOTO: Christopher Cragg ] I love taking road trips (who doesn’t?!) and the drive to Nyanga and the Honde Valley in Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe has fast become one of my favourites. Driving out of Harare, making that left turn at Rusape and entering the Juliasdale area, one can almost feel the tension in your shoulders release. Has anyone else noticed that slight temperature drop, that the air is crisper, fresher and you can’t help taking a gulp of the pure, clean air into your lungs? If someone could find a way to bottle it, you’d make millions. We often forget how much pollution is in the air around us until you head out of town where traffic is less and trees, fields of grass, flowers and birdlife abound and the imprint of mankind is not as noticeable. I frequently find myself thinking how we always seem to constantly be building in the name of ‘progress’ yet I honestly crave wide, open spaces and the sound of silence with not a soul in sight. Surely this is what we should be preserving instead? There is something for everyone when it comes to accommodation in the Eastern Highlands. Thanks to Far & Wide, the SkyDeck Mountain Retreat and Aberfoyle Lodge there is now accommodation that suits everyone’s needs and budget.
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ESCAPE TO THE HIGHLANDS | ZIMBABWE Far & Wide offers a range of self-catering cottages ranging from the Mutarazi cottages (of which there are three cottages, each sleeping six) perfectly designed for coziness and comfort, and even come with their own heated saunas. After an icey-cold dip in the mountain streams whilst hiking, it feels like pure heaven! There is Pamushana Cottage which sleeps six adults and two children comfortably and is ideal for a family wanting privacy during their stay. You almost feel like you’re the only ones around when staying in this secluded spot. Next there are the two Pungwe Drift cottages which are more remote, rustic fishermen cottages located right next to the gurgling upper Pungwe River. If you want more of an adventure and to be submersed in nature, these are the ideal cottages for you. Each sleep five, with a double bed and three single beds; they don’t have electricity but paraffin lamps are provided along with a gas stove, solar fridge, cosey fireplace and the sounds of the river all night long. What more could one want?
[ Pungwe Drift Cottages ]
It is about a 4-4.5 hour drive from Harare to Far & Wide and although during most of the year the roads are fine and even the adventurous Honda Fit has been known to make it, one definitely needs a 4x4 during the rainy season to get to them.
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ZIMBABWE | ESCAPE TO THE HIGHLANDS The SkyDeck Mountain Retreat is a fairly new establishment to have been built in the Nyanga area. It is perched on the edge of the Honde Valley escarpment surrounded by beautiful afro-montane forests with the most stunning panoramic views of Mount Inyangani. The SkyDeck brings the ‘luxury’ aspect to the area and staying here, one is afforded absolute exclusivity, with a butler, private chef and private guide to see to one’s every need. It sleeps four in two en-suite rooms at opposite ends of the building. Picture yourself sitting in a hot tub, drink of choice in hand, a slight nip in the air but the heated, bubbling water keeping you nice and toasty and the view, my goodness, that view! One has to be there to fully appreciate its wonder.
[ SkyDeck Mountain Retreat ]
In upcoming exciting news, three beautiful luxury Villas are set to open mid-April 2022 adding more capacity to the property so a larger group of friends or family can be accommodated. Watch their social media pages for the first images to be released of these elegantly designed rooms, they are not to be missed and will have you wanting to book your weekend-getaway right away! There is a variety of activities one is able to do whilst staying at Far & Wide and the SkyDeck starting from the SkyWalk and SkyLine activities which are walking across two bridges (definitely not advisable for one scared of heights) stretched across the Mutarazi Falls, Africa’s second highest waterfall. The SkyLine is then a Zipline across this expanse as well. They are both incredibly exhilarating experiences!
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ESCAPE TO THE HIGHLANDS | ZIMBABWE There are two obstacle Confidence courses, a Family Orienteering course, a giant swing if you dare, white water rafting/river bugging but this is seasonal, birding hikes with phenomenal guides, what is becoming a very popular Turaco Trail and finally the SkyRun which is held annually and growing in popularity for those wanting to test their fitness levels to the maximum. Taking a winding, roughly two-hour scenic drive further down the Honde Valley escarpment, we then come to another special, hidden gem of this intriguing country. It’s a place where one almost doesn’t even feel like you’re in Zimbabwe. Surrounded by rolling shades of green and hills covered in tea plantations, taking in the surrounding scenery you wind your way and come to the increasingly popular Aberfoyle Lodge. With only 15 rooms and one self-catering house called Hornbill House sleeping seven, this lodge and property is small enough to allow you privacy and attention to detail during your stay. Their rates are Full Board which include all meals, teas and coffees and complimentary access to the golf course (yes, a golf course too!) during your stay. Each lodge room is named and designed with a similar colour scheme of the birds found in the area. For example, some of the rooms are called Seedcracker, Tchagra, Bushshrike, Kingfisher, Blue Swallow, African Pitta to name but a few.
[ Mutarazi Cottage ] [ Aberfoyle Lodge]
Activities on offer here include guided or self-hikes, a tea factory tour (per group of up to eight), a Tree Canopy Tour which is zip-lining through the forest of trees with trickling, crystal-clear streams and foliage below you, fishing at Wamba dam where you are able to bring your own boat as there is a bay for docking and loading boats, and birding with wellknown bird guide Morgan, who is often much sought-after. There is a small putt-putt course and a swimming pool to keep the children entertained along with dormitory rooms to allow parents a quiet and relaxing stay while all the children are together. The drive from Harare straight to Aberfoyle would probably take you roughly six hours or so, with the last two hours being very slow because of the winding roads, but one hardly notices this whilst taking in the beautiful scenery along the way. There are also various other private self-cottages to be found in Nyanga and in conclusion, the Eastern Highlands is a very popular destination both for locals and internationals alike, offering something for everyone.
[ Wamba Dam View, Aberfoyle ]
[ Honde Valley Views ] May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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ZIMBABWE | PAINTED WOLVES
In the Company of
PAINTED WOLVES [ WRITER / PHOTO: Lee-Anne Russell ]
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PAINTED WOLVES | ZIMBABWE
In October 2020, we got to experience one of the most thrilling and special experiences there is in Mana Pools. It was our first morning in the park and despite us feeling exhausted from setting up camp the previous evening, clutching our travel mugs filled with a strong coffee, we set off, eager to see what the park had to offer. We desperately hoped to find the painted dogs (also known as painted wolves) which by now should have left their dens and been more active on the flood plains. We circled the usual spots and saw elephant, waterbuck, hyena, impala, all the usual suspects but no sign of the painted dogs. Every year we had hoped to spot these beautiful animals and had so far been very unlucky. As the late morning heat became unbearable as it does in Mana, we headed back to Nyamepi to wait out the blistering hours of the day. We set to lunch and the general upkeep that one needs to maintain when camping. A short while later, another camper returned from their morning drive, she had found the painted dog pack and was excited to share her sighting. We optimistically planned to see if they were still there towards the cooler end of the afternoon, more than likely they would be, as the dogs will usually wait out the heat of the day lying about in the shade. The hours ticked by, and the temperature slowly dropped, finally we were off to find the dogs, a convoy of four vehicles trekking through the park to their last known location. To our dismay they were not there. We drove up and down the area but if there is one animal that camouflages very well its these dogs, they blend into their surroundings very well, often invisible in plain sight. One of the more experienced members of our group suggested we make the necessary arrangements to track the dogs on foot. We had basic walking experience in Mana Pools and thought this was an excellent idea and in
short order were able to trek after the dogs. With our cameras strapped on and extra batteries in our pockets, the five of us ventured into the small, wooded area we suspected them to have retreated from the heat into. Less than fifteen minutes into our walk we came across them lying about in the shade. Keeping our distance, swatting away mopane flies and the occasional tsetse fly, we managed to get a handful of mediocre photos of them through the brush and watch as they engaged with each other, the pups often tumbling around playfully. They paid us very little mind only briefly looking up at us. It was not long before there was movement in the pack, the adults slowly started getting up and slinking off, one at a time. As the last of the pups followed the adults, we heard ahead of us their typical yips of greeting and playing. Slowly, and as quietly as possible, very aware of every little twig snapping underfoot, we trailed them into the clearing by a stream, where they had moved to for water. Silently, we moved into an unobtrusive position. Crouching down, sidling along on the muddy ground to get a clear view, never making sudden or large movements, we settled in to watch them May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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ZIMBABWE | PAINTED WOLVES for the rest of the afternoon. While the adults drank their fill and lay down again to rest, paying us negligible attention, the pups took the new open space to be a personal playground. They ran around, chasing each other, occasionally harassing the adults, and scaring off the occasional vulture brave enough to attempt approaching for water. As we sat there, the dogs all perked their ears up, facing the brush we had walked through, the puppies froze mid game, and we heard low growls from the dogs. Seconds dragged on for an eternity, I sat there, holding my breath, anxiously scanning the tree line, feeling completely exposed and imagining all sorts of horrific scenarios that involved myself and a ravenous lioness. Suddenly I realized how vulnerable I was without my trusty cruiser to roll the windows up on. When nothing ventured from the tree line and the puppies resumed their antics there was an audible sigh of relief from us all. Towards sunset, one of the painted dogs got more curious about our presence. Walking to within five meters of us and sniffing, to briefly investigate these strange creatures observing them. He looked very intimidating, especially for something half the size of one of my own dogs back home. I will admit at this point I was nervous, despite them ignoring us previously, they were still wild animals and very efficient predators at that. He lay down between his pack and us and stayed there till the pack later moved on. This felt like a protective gesture on his part towards his pack. As the sun dipped towards the horizon, the dogs started getting up from their slumber again, greeting each other, splashing through the now muddy water, and becoming much more active. Within ten minutes the pack leaders had started off at a trot, promptly followed in single file by the rest of the pack. After they had all left, we sat there for a few minutes just taking in everything that had just happened, laughing about how we had all pictured a lion stalking through the brush ready to rush in at the dogs - or us! This was the very photo opportunity I had been wanting to experience since my very first trip to Mana Pools. Being near these creatures was every bit as amazing as I had anticipated. We got up, dusted off and started the short walk back to our vehicles, wary of any prowling predators on the hunt in the dusky light. That night around the fire, we sat long into the evening, comparing photos, and discussing every minute of our afternoon, finally going to bed with bright expectations of what the next two weeks would bring.
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HWANGE UNDER CANVAS | ZIMBABWE
Hwange
UNDER CANVAS [ WRITER / PHOTOS: Tessa Buhrmann ]
[ Deteema Ntandoe and Themba safari guides ]
There’s little that beats the romance and thrill of sleeping under canvas, especially when in wild, Big 5 territory. Feeling like explorers of old we negotiated our way along gravel roads, through muddy patches and sections of sand – as the roads deteriorated, so did our excitement. It was our first visit to Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe’s largest proclaimed conservation area, and our first ‘under canvas’ experience in the wild. We are heading to Deteema Springs in the north-eastern section of Hwange, a luxurious yet un-pretentious camp, built on a historical Zimbabwe Parks picnic site and set amidst granite boulders, natural bush, and large trees. Arriving at Deteema at dusk adds a sense of mystery and allure; the sky is tinged with violet and the hurricane lamps along the steps of the main tent invite us towards the flickering firelight of a log fire. It’s beginning to get dark, so we are escorted to our tent by safari guide Ntandoe, he sweeps his torch light to and fro, nonchalantly pointing to a tree on our left, “there was a lion kill here just a few months ago, it was a kudu”. A short distance further along a raised wooden platform is our ‘room’, an authentic canvas safari tent, complete with simple screens and zippers... and a queen-size bed, spacious en suite bathroom, and private deck – there’s no roughing it here, the pared-down luxury and stylish décor blending perfectly with its natural surroundings.
[ Deteema Springs]
Located in a small concession area within Hwange National Park, Deteema is perched on a rocky rise overlooking the seep, created May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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ZIMBABWE | HWANGE UNDER CANVAS
by a collection of natural springs that ensure permanent water year-round, which is a huge drawcard for elephants during the dry season. It is the tail-end of the ‘green season’, where water in the park is plentiful and game viewing a challenge, but what may appear a disadvantage is a delight for birders as this season brings migratory birds, many of them in their breeding plumage. Later that evening I stand on the deck overlooking the seep, the sky awash with stars and the moon reflected in the permanent water. The night sounds seem amplified and the elements of nature so much closer. A hyena whoops nearby, and during the night the long sawing sound of a leopard awakens me, baboons bark in alarm, followed by a shriek. I drift back to sleep knowing that a leopard family will sleep with full bellies come the morning. The persistent roar of a lion fills the pre-dawn air, I linger beneath the duvet savouring the sounds of the bush as it begins to awaken and watch as the sky turns from deep red to orange. I realise how different a night under canvas is, and how much of the bush experience you miss sleeping in a regular insulated structure. I savour my coffee in the early morning light, and together with Ntandoe and Themba, our other safari guide, we discuss our morning activity. We had planned to walk the treeline around Deteema dam, but with the vociferous lion calls in that vicinity we opt for finding him by vehicle first, and then walking a safer distance away.
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HWANGE UNDER CANVAS | ZIMBABWE
We search the tawny coloured grass for movement. It’s the perfect camouflage for a lion, we eventually spot him striding through the long grass, barely visible, and clearly on a mission – Themba tells us that there is a female in the region that has perhaps come into oestrus. He is beautiful, strong and appears in the peak of health, he pauses mid-stride to cast his piercing amber eyes in our direction before disappearing into a mopane woodland. We’d heard him and we found him, I sigh in contentment… but we had walking shoes on, so walk we must. Walking through the bush enables one to appreciate the little things, the plants, insects and even the geology and history of the area. We inspect a termite mound and Themba explains that what we see is but a fraction of the size of their colony, and that the mound is built to provide ventilation to their underground nest. Short, scrubby mopane bushes are plentiful, as are elephant tracks, we learn that to protect themselves from excessive elephant snacking, the mopane trees release tannins from their roots to make their leaves unpalatable, and to get the message through to the surrounding trees, they release pheromones to warn of incoming elephants. How amazing is nature! Back in our vehicle we head in the direction of the camp, but a slight detour has us arrive at a clearing under a huge sausage tree (Kigelia africana) tree, camp manager Kudakwashe, best known as ‘Kuda’ and his team welcome us with broad smiles and fragrant face cloths, and May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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ZIMBABWE | HWANGE UNDER CANVAS
[ Verney’s Camp ] Lungani presents us with Amarula bush coffee. A campfire is burning, and chef Simiso is in the process of cooking up a storm. Breakfast has never tasted so good! In fact, Simiso’s cooking exceeded our expectations in every way, from the light salad lunches, and three-course dinners under the stars to the special gluten-free muffins, bread and desserts that he created especially for me – nothing was too much effort, and all was delivered with a smile.
[ Deteema chef Simiso ]
The raised deck of our tent offers a great spot for an afternoon rest. A herd on impala graze peacefully in the distance and a troop of baboons’ forage alongside the seep. The young ones play silly buggers, the dominant male poses regally on the top of a termite mound, and a young adult, in an attempt to retrieve a tasty, out of reach sprig, tumbles down the bank into the seep - I may not be watching a herd of elephants, but these guys certainly keep me entertained. A yellow spotted hyrax feasts on vegetation and a giant plated lizard, which are plentiful, scurries beneath the boulders, sensing my presence, fork-tailed drongos do fly-bys and the canvas of our tent flaps gently in the breeze. Bliss! Too soon we had to bid farewell to the fabulous Deteema team and continue our Hwange explore… After a long and adventurous drive south, we eventually arrived at Verney’s Camp, to a warm and friendly welcome and an icy drink. After a late high tea, we finally retreat to our tent, which is a woefully inadequate description for the large, perfectly appointed luxurious safari tent we were to call home for two nights!
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The camp overlooks Verney’s Pan and its surrounding flood plain, and besides the lengthy game drives, I delight in the activity it offers… a small herd of kudu come down to drink, and in the distance, I see an elephant bull sauntering towards the pan. He clearly has an attitude and takes umbrage at the Egyptian geese at the water’s edge. He slurps his fill, tosses mud around for a while and as casually as he had arrived, saunters back towards the treeline. Such is the pleasure of Verney’s location – a parade of wildlife, even in the green season! Add to that, the surrounding teak forest is a haven for birdlife – we tick off the Bradfield’s hornbill and the crimsonbreasted shrike in the nearby bush. There are more elephants, a herd of zebra and a journey of giraffe, who spread their legs and bend down awkwardly to drink, making them vulnerable to predators - even my presence with the camera has them retreating in caution. Their caution justified, as later that evening whilst enjoying G&Ts around the fire, we hear the nearby roar of a lion. And on closer inspection, find a lioness sitting on a ridge in almost the exact spot where we had enjoyed sundowners earlier that evening, and in perfect view of where the giraffe had been drinking. It’s our last night at Verney’s and we dine under a canopy of stars. Snuggling under the duvet, my bedtime serenade is the distant call of a hyena, and the sploshing sounds of elephants wallowing, who by dawn will have disappeared, like grey ghosts into the surrounding bush.
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ZIMBABWE | ROBIN’S CAMP say is that of a human ear), wrote about his experiences indicating that, although very dry, he observed small groups of a variety of wildlife species including some black and white rhino. Thus the area had the potential of being a game reserve. This was the situation when 22-year-old Ted Davison took over as Senior Game Warden in September 1928. There were no roads, no camps and no tourists at the time. Initially all his patrols, taking weeks and often months, were undertaken either on foot or horse-back. Herbert George (HG) Robins was born in England, which he left in 1884 at the age of 17. He joined the British South Africa Company that Cecil Rhodes had set up to govern Rhodesia. Initially he helped to fight against the Mashona and the Matabele uprisings during the first and second Chimurenga wars as the local people called them. He then went off prospecting for diamonds and minerals in the Belgian Congo and Angola, before returning to farm in Rhodesia. He purchased Little Toms farm on the edge of what would become the new Wankie Game Reserve - now Hwange National Park - that was eventually proclaimed a national park in 1950. Robins lived alone with his four large Great Dane dogs, his constant companions, which were trained and used for hunting, especially lion preying on his cattle. Never photographed smiling, the enigmatic, pipe-puffing Robins has been called gruff, hard and difficult, gentle, kind and generous – and everything in between.
The History of
ROBIN’S CAMP [ WRITER: Ian Thomson, ex Rhodesia/Zimbabwe Department of National Parks and Wildlife ] [ PHOTO: Africa Talked ] Robins Camp, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, is situated in the top north western region of the Park and is one of Hwange‘s premier wildlife and tourist destinations with a very interesting history. When Wankie Game Reserve was originally proposed in 1928 by Major W Bogie in the then Rhodesian Government Legislative Assembly, it was a barren and arid area consisting mainly of dry Kalahari sands still frequented by wandering bands of San/ Bushmen who came in from across the unmarked boundary of what was then known as the British Protectorate of Bechuanaland, now Botswana. European and African poachers, mainly after ivory, had periodically braved this vast dry area in search of elephant. Frederick Courtney Selous who hunted through the area, killing a white rhino near Shakwanki Pans (this Bushman name is derived from the shape of the pan that they
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Being an avid astronomer Robins built a large square tower equipping it with a powerful telescope. The lower space eventually became offices. This landmark building stills stands today and is a well-known feature of the camp. Easily accessible as his farms were on the original Great North Road, which ran through to Matestsi and the Victoria Falls, Robins first tried running cattle. After 10 years, acknowledging it did not pay, and aware of the rich wildlife of the area, he decided to manage his farms as a private game reserve. Robins had noticed that with the close proximity of the perennial Deka River and the Big and Little Toms Pans, that there was a constant good source of water for the wildlife. This, coupled with a salt pan fairly close by, and with very little effort needed, he could retain a good cross section of wildlife on his property. Although he was becoming more of a recluse, he wrote and published many articles that drew attention to the variety of wild animals on his farms. This resulted in as many as 300 visitors a year intruding unannounced at his home. The somewhat eccentric and reclusive Robins soon tired of all the unwanted attention. Unfortunately, Robins could not get on with Ted Davidson, the young ex-Tsetse Department officer who was appointed the first warden of the new Wankie Game Reserve in 1928. Despite the fact that he despised all officialdom, once digging a trench in the
ROBIN’S CAMP | ZIMBABWE road and covering it with branches hoping that Davidson would fall into it, (fortunately, Davidson had been warned and was able to drive around it), he still wanted his farm to remain a wildlife sanctuary. So in 1934, he had his lawyers draw up papers bequeathing his farms to government for the express purpose of integrating them into the new Wankie Game Reserve when he died. HG Robin’s lies buried at the entrance gate to the new Robins Camp. By 1950 Wankie Game Reserve was promulgated as Wankie National Park, during which time Ted Davidson had expanded his ranger force and four camps had been established – Robins; Nantwich situated in the boundary just above Robins, on the main road to Matestsi; Sinamatella, on the road to Wankie town and Main Camp on the Dett Vlei. Main Camp, located on an old farm was part of the original game reserve and where Ted Davison had made his headquarters. Since then there have been a plethora of private camps constructed, with Robin’s Camp now having been privatised as well. The privatisation of some of these camps and the establishment of private initiative was driven by the new Zimbabwe Government after the end of the Rhodesian war in 1980. It was into this historical mix that I was fortunate in being transferred to Robins Camp as Warden of the north-western sub region of Wankie National Park in the late 1970’s. My area extended approximately for 75 miles down the Botswana border as far as the lower end of the Shakwankie area and then halfway back to the Main Camp patrol area around Shapi So Pan. (See map) Unfortunately when I arrived at Robins, complete with family, it was just as our internal war was coming to an end, a sad time in the country’s history. The camp and surrounding areas were still closed to the public. Therefore, with no tourists to worry about, the duties of myself, my rangers and scouts, was to maintain integrity of the camp and all the wildlife within this huge area. This included a number of artificial water points with water-cooled diesel engines and pumps that had to be checked and serviced once a month. The one at Shakwankie Pan was our southern limit.
[ Tower door ]
[ Robin’s office ] [ Robin’s tower ]
Our offices were at the base of Robin’s Tower, from which I could sit and watch the antics of a frequent visitor, a pearl-spotted owlet. The birdlife was amazingly rich and colourful. Establishing good relationships with the local people, the welfare of the wildlife and anti-poaching controls were integral to the management of this unique and beautiful wilderness area. After being managed by ZimParks for many years, Robins Camp has recently been opened by a private company. Completely refurbished into a high-end upmarket tourist lodge and campsite the ‘ghost’ of Herbert George Robins still lingers on in the shadow of his tower.
Consultant: Wildlife and Environmental Management. www.africatalked.co.za
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ZIMBABWE | NDHLOVU DRIVE
NDHLOVU DRIVE [ WRITER: Kim Sparrow ]
Hwange National Park
[ PHOTO: Garth Jenman, Barry Wohluter, Tony Park ]
Hwange holds a character as biodiverse as the ecosystem itself. Being the largest national park in Zimbabwe, covering an impressive 14, 650 sq km, there is much scope for variety. Due to its sheer size, its topography and woodland are different in each area, keeping curiosity consistent. There are three different sections of the park Robins (North West), Sinimatella (Central) and Main Camp (East). Each has its own distinct atmosphere, pans, dominant species and ecology. Much of the park has no permanent natural surface water, so many pans are manmade in a conscious conservation effort for the survival of the park and its inhabitants. Water is pumped into these pans during the dry season, a saviour for many species. In other areas, natural springs or ‘seeps’, provide a lifeline to wildlife year-round. Water is a precious and scarce resource for a park of such magnitude - filled with an abundance of wildlife - some of which travel its length, breadth, and beyond. With over 100 species of mammals, an elephant population some 44 000 strong, and 400 species of bird, the demand for water is high. Then there are predators, insects, flora and fauna - each element of the ecosystem reliant on another.
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There is a specific section of the Hwange National Park close to the heart of Jenman African Safaris. It stretches for 180km from near Main Camp in the east to the northwest, near Robins. We affectionately refer to it as ‘Ndhlovu Drive’ in admiration of the number of elephants one encounters in the area. These herds of gentle giants frequent certain lifegiving waterholes along the way, the highlights of the journey for both man and beast. These pans are kept topped up by solar-powered pumps and maintained by an organisation worthy of accolade; Bhejane Trust. The trust assists National Parks in a variety of ways, one being the provision of water, ensuring the resource is available over large distances. One may experience the Ndhlovu Drive as a half-day or full-day excursion, beginning at Elephant’s Eye, Hwange in the Sikumi Forest, and driving through to Nantwich private concession in the Robins section of the park. The excursion showcases the diversity
of Hwange; its landscapes, woodlands and wildlife in constant flux. Rise with the sun in the east at Elephant’s Eye, Hwange for an early breakfast before embarking on your journey. Heading into Hwange National Park via Main Camp, one must keep your eyes peeled. As there are no fences between the Sikumi Forest and the main park, lion, elephant, antelope and even the endangered wild dog move freely between. Even before arriving at Main Camp, the park’s administrative headquarters, there’s a lovely pan on the right, Livingi, where elephant are often seen. Heading into the heart of the park, keep an eye out for lion and cheetah in the open grassy areas around Dom Pan. The first source of water is 34.7km away: Nyamandhlovu Pan (S 18°46’493” E 026°53’305”). Its raised hide, which offers views of the open plains and large numbers of wildlife, earns it the title of most popular waterhole in the park. It is frequented by zebra, kudu, elephant and is home to a pride of lion. After a morning coffee, the trip takes you north through teak forests and mopane groves. One passes Guvalala Pan which features
NDHLOVU DRIVE | ZIMBABWE another shady, elevated hide, but without Nyamandhlovu’s crowds, then onto Shumba Pan (S 18°48’555” E 026°20’838”), 67.3 km away. On the way are smaller, seasonal waterholes, each playing their role in sustaining the ecosystem. Shumba has a picnic site with ablutions and tall shady trees – keep an eye out for the resident African scops owl. Its iconic raised hide, open plains and large numbers of wildlife make it one of the most popular waterholes in the park. It is frequented by zebra, kudu, elephant and has resident hippo and a number of huge crocodiles. Time becomes fluid and hours pass unnoticed as the enamour of nature takes over. Each pan, each pump, each elephant encounter evokes fresh excitement and interest. The bonus comes in understanding the necessity of providing water beyond lodge borders for the animals of Hwange National Park. 14km further lies Masuma Dam (S 18°43’841” E 026°16’842”), full of hippos and crocodiles with a hide built on a hill for a bird’s-eye view. This perspective makes it popular for photography, fanatics settle beneath its thatched roof and cool stone walls, ready to capture the ways of the wild. It is also a favourite for elephants, their arrival quenching the thirst of the herd as well as those behind the lens.
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ZIMBABWE | NDHLOVU DRIVE En route to our next location 31 km away there is a fascinating area of many fossilized trees, believed to be over 200 million years old. They bring a reminder of the ancient stories and energy of the wilderness. There is a certain intimacy to the fossilised forest, vulnerable in its age, offering observation. From bird’s-eye to ground level, Deteema Dam (S18° 40’428” E26° 08’798”), located off the main road, invites viewing from its hide on the side of the water’s edge. During the dry season, when the water level is low, elephants will sometimes walk right in front of the hide, almost close enough to touch. With 33 km to go, the final waterhole of Ndhlovu Drive sits in front of Nantwich Lodge, frequented by an almost constant daily procession of game - especially before the rains. The area is renowned for its huge herds of buffalo, sometimes more than a thousand strong. It also holds the highest density of lions in the park. Watch out for Percy’s Pride, named after Nantwich’s colourful colonial-era owner, Percy Durban Crewe, as they stalk the periphery of a seething black mass of buffalo, scrutinizing their prey. Nantwich is fast gaining a reputation as ‘cheetah country’ – the open, grassy vleis around the lodge are the perfect habitat for the world’s fastest predator. Having arrived either for lunch, or sundowners depending on pace and wildlife encounters along the way, tranquility settles along with the heat, both welcomed with gratitude. Nantwich is the perfect location to reflect on and absorb the events of the day, while remaining to witness wildlife mere meters away at the pan. The insight of the critical issue of water provisions throughout the park gifts new appreciation for the conservation warriors of Hwange, maintaining and protecting our wild spaces in all its biodiverse beauty. One drinks in the vastness, quenching the thirst for relaxation, as well as the typical African Gin & Tonic, saluting Hwange National Park.
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SHORT STORIES | ZIMBABWE
SAFARI STORIES HWANGE LION EXPERIENCES: A much-needed getaway in one of our favourite places (Hwange National Park) is what we both craved. My fiancé, Mike and I, had meticulously planned our days in order to fit everything in and spending some muchneeded alone time was top priority. Once arriving we settled into our room at Iganyana Tented Camp as any usual guest would and unpacked for our stay. The main purpose of our trip was to spot the elusive lion. It had been a long three-day search and Mike and I, along with our two trusted guides, had our eyes peeled on the long, thick November veld all day. Finally, as we approached the Hwange airstrip, we came across the most majestic, beautiful lioness and two others on what seemed to be a warthog kill. We sat in awe watching the three cats for around 10 minutes, absolutely fascinated. Unbeknownst to us, close by in the thicket lay seven small fluffy beige cubs. The photographed female noticed us looking at her spawn and approached us, stopping for a moment to stare us down and let out a low growl, warning us not to get any closer and to signal mealtime to her cubs. It was the most precious sighting, watching them as they came bouncing out, stumbling over the long green grass with their clumsy paws. For about 30-40 minutes we sat gazing in amazement at the sheer attitude of the small cubs, all very curious as
[ WRITER: Kyrie Taylor
/ PHOTO: Kytaylorphotography ]
to what we were and why we were there. One or two even mock charged us every now and then, humorous to say the least. As the sun started to set, we had no option but to pull ourselves away and leave to return to camp. Unfortunately I didn’t have the correct lens on my camera to get close up pictures of the cubs, but this was by far our best and most adrenaline pumped experience in sighting a lion to date. It will be forever etched in my mind of the wonders that lay hidden in the African wilderness.
[ WRITER / PHOTO: Leigh-Anne Williams ] On a sunny, already unbearable hot, early morning drive through Hwange National Park, heading towards Guvalala Pan, looking for cheetah I so desperately wanted to see, we happened to come across this herd of sable antelope. They appeared very distracted by something in the distance and on high alert, barely acknowledging our presence. We followed their gaze across the expanse of the hazy landscape when great excitement broke out as we were convinced the movement we had spotted was cheetah, apparently, we need our eyes checked, as upon closer investigation we discovered two lionesses hunting the sable. Our presence, when noticed by the brazen hunters, gave the sable the perfect opportunity to take flight and escape - we had disturbed breakfast. Indignantly the lionesses wandered off and we followed at a distance. From behind an anthill out popped some young ones, not babies by any means but still cubs nonetheless, what a sight.
antics as they playfully followed every little movement in the car, their interest piqued, eyes never wavering, curious and inquisitive gazes. Occasionally they would cautiously wander toward the vehicle to investigate. Perhaps they were hoping we would replace the breakfast we unintentionally robbed them of. Capturing lions comfortable in their natural habitat, hunting, sleeping and playing will keep me returning to this wonderous landscape time and again.
We spent the better part of an hour watching them and their
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BIRDING
THE LARGEST BIRD [ WRITER / PHOTOS: Sean Hind ]
On Earth
Not only is Africa home to the largest land mammal on earth, The African elephant, it is also home to the largest bird on earth. The common ostrich (Struthio camelus) some of you might be more familiar with its flightless cousins the emu and the kiwi. All these birds belong to the ratite family, which is the group of flightless birds.
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BIRDING
My very first memory of an ostrich, is me on the back of one, holding on for dear life as this massive bird raced down a dirt road. I think I must have been about seven or eight years old, we were on a family holiday in South Africa and we had visited an ostrich farm. Ostrich farms are found all over the world, and they are mainly farmed for the feathers decorative and of course feather dusters, the skin for leather products and the meat marketed commercially, its leanness being the main selling point. We are lucky enough to be able to see the ostrich running around in some of our national parks. They are the tallest and heaviest bird in the world and since they cannot fly they have adapted in other ways to survive on the open savanna woodlands. The ostrich can reach speeds of up to seventy kilometres per hour. This is really fast for a bird that can weigh up to hundred and thirty kilograms and stand well over two meters tall. This is where their wings become very useful, the ostrich uses its wings for steering and rapid breaking, this agility is what can help them escape predators. The main predators for ostrich are the big cats, lion, cheetah, and leopard but hyenas and wild dog could also hunt ostrich. Jackals might try and take the eggs and young ones. Have you ever seen an ostrich egg? Wow, they are massive! Roughly twenty times the size of a chicken egg and can weigh up to well over a kilogram. You can find up to forty eggs in one nest site, not all these eggs are from one female. Ostriches are polygyny which means one alpha male and many female mates. There is normally just one alpha female and she is the one to first accept the nest that the male ostrich has made. This is normally just a scrape in the ground that he makes with the powerful claw that he has on his toe, the other females are then subordinate females. The alpha female will now make sure that her eggs are in the centre of the nest well, with the eggs of the subordinate females on the outside of the nest - this will make sure that her eggs are incubated and that the eggs on the periphery of the nest are more vulnerable to predation. The females, which are a greyish brown colour, tend to incubate the eggs during the day whereas the male with his mostly black plumage will incubate during the night. The incubation period is about 40 - 55 days.
adults. An adult that is caring for the young may perform a distraction display, which is when it will run away from the group with wings flopping in a broken-wing display. The male is more likely to perform the distraction display than the female. Unfortunately, the survival rate is not great for the young, from bush fires destroying eggs, to jackals and hyenas eating the eggs and the great martial eagle is a potential predator for the young chicks.
Some fun facts about the Ostrich
1 - It is a myth that an ostrich buries its head in the sand, they do however walk along with their head held about 30cm above the ground feeding on plants and seeds.
2 - Ostriches have the largest eye of any land mammals, measuring 5cm across, this allows for them to see predators from far off. 3 - The ostrich is the fastest two legged creature on the planet reaching speeds of 70km/h. When running at full speed a stride can be as long as 5m. 4 - There are two species of ostrich found in Africa, the common ostrich (Struthio camelus) which are generally found in the drier parts of Africa and the Somali ostrich (Struthio molybdophanes) which is found in northeast Africa.
Baby ostriches have got to be one of the cutest things around, they basically resemble a hedgehog, this is possibly a predator deterrent. The young can group into creches and be under the care of two or more May - Aug 2022 | TRAVEL & LEISURE
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BOOK REVIEWS
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CARNIVORES & PRIMATES by Chris and Mathilde Stuart A quick reference is so often necessary. Renowned authoritative authors of best-selling field guides, Chris and Mathilde Stuart, have produced two more informative compact guides. One guide is on Carnivores, and the other on Primates in Africa. With distinctive photographs, maps, basic facts and descriptive information, making it easier to identify these animals and where they live, these concise glossy guides are useful and informative for all nature lovers. Published by Struik Nature/Penguin Random House Carnivores ISBN 978-1-77584-791-5: Primates ISBN 978-1-77584-793-9
DUSTY ROAD Township Tastes by Sarah Lilford A celebration of the joy of cooking, the gift of food in nature, the people who bring it to you, an unusual lifestyle and the love of her country, Zimbabwe, Sarah Lilford has brought together all these aspects into one amazing, beautiful book. Full of brilliant photographs, easy to follow recipes, people and what to expect in her home town, Victoria Falls, this is not just a cookbook – it is a memento of a visit, a memory of sharing a culture, an experience and a book to treasure. Published by Dusty Road ISBN 978 1 77920 991 7. Available online www.dustyroad.africa and at Sarah’s unique restaurant DUSTY ROAD, Chinotimba, Victoria Falls.
ULENDO: WALKING WHERE VULTURES FLY by Iain Macdonald An absorbing memoir that spans decades, Ulendo is also a historical record of walking safaris in Zambia, and Tanzania. After working with the legendary Norman Carr, who instigated walking safaris in the South Luangwa Valley, Zambia, Macdonald moved up to the North Luangwa to build his own camp. Photographs show how lodges were built when you relied on porters, reeds and thatch, and loos that looked out onto the wilderness. Published by Iain Macdonald, ISBN: 978-1-77920-889-7.
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TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2022
A VET, THREE MARES AND A HOUND CALLED MAX A story of an epic journey from war-torn Poland to a farm in Rhodesia, by Nicholas Ellenbogen. This is a charming, heart-warming tale told by master story-teller and actor, Nicholas Ellenbogen, who, drawing on personal experiences captures the spirit and characters of the old Rhodesia. This delightful book with little illustrations, will appeal to all ages, with something of interest for everyone. ISBN 978 1 77634 556 4 Published by Footprint Press. www.footprintpress.co.za
