Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe May-Aug 2021 by Lyn G

Come and enjoy endless memories with the thundering Victoria Falls less than 10 minutes walk. The Victoria Falls Hotel offers a classic honeymoon experience like no other, whilst enjoying pure luxury in the heart of Africa.

For more than a century, The Victoria Falls Hotel has been the address of choice for Royal Families, statesmen, celebrities and discerning travellers as it occupies a fine location from which to explore the magical wonders of untamed Africa. Steeped in history and evoking a sense of a bygone era, the hotel continues to offer guests true luxury and excellent service.

www.victoriafallshotel.com

TV F H

[T] (+263-213) 2844751 / 9 or 2844203 / 5 [M] (+263-772) 132 174 or (+263-772) 132 175 [F] (+263-213) 2842354 / 2844762 [E] reservations@victoriafallshotel.com [skype] resmgr.tvfh

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

CONTRIBUTIONS

CONTENTS

COVER Leopard with a Puku kill. South Luangwa National Park. Photo credit: Shenton Safaris. Photographer: Francois d’Elbee

ISSUE 18 | MAY - AUGUST 2021

Isolating on the Busanga Plains

Interview with Leslie Nevison

A Walk on the Wildside

Publisher Safari Magazine

Easing the Burden of Covid 19

Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala kwisanoent@gmail.com

Kariba Town: What’s on offer

Nottingham Estate Resorts

Layout & Art Director Lyn Grandemange grandemangelyn@gmail.com Website www.zambiatravelmagazine.com Subscriptions kwisanoent@gmail.com +260 977 308 711

The importance of The Kaza TFCA

The Grey Crowned Cranes of

A Water Wonderland

Kasanka - a hidden gem

Paradise found

Hwange National Park

Helping Hands in snake safety

Submissions We welcome editorial and photographic submissions to the magazine. Accompanying images should be sent in high-res jpg and minimum 3MB in size. Please send a synopsis of the proposed article to kwisanoent@gmail. com for consideration.

We are Victoria Falls

Getting behind the Label

Artist Interview: Destination Livingstone

Tichaona Ncube

Seasons of the Zambezi

Countdown to Extinction:

Loving Lusaka

The African Elephant

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

Contributors Brooke Berlin, Johann Vanzyl, Leslie Nevison, Mama Tembo Tours, Jeffery & McKeith Safaris, Sarah Kingdom, Chris Meyer, Christopher Walti, Stephanie Naidoo, Robin Pope safaris, Linde Meintjes, Alison Orr, Chundukwa River Lodge, Homer, Sally Wynn, Wild Zambezi, African Sun Hotels, Executive Air, Zambezi River Authority, Baobab Bookings, Rachel McRobb, Conservation South Luangwa, Freepix.com, Tich the Watchman, Kaingu Safari Lodge, Rosie Mercer, Shelley Cox, Africa Conservation Travel, Lute Maekaeka Kazembe, Safari Magazine, Tony Barnett, Angela Mason Ex Esterhuizen, Nottingham Estate Resorts, Livingstone Film Makers, Sean Hind, Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, Wild Horizons, Bhejane Trust, Marcel van Driel, Mike Perry, Ngosa Chungu, Le Elementos Hotel.

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Printers New Horizon Printing Press Plot # LUS/9815/H Kafue Road, Lusaka, Zambia Copyright Copyright © All rights for material appearing in this magazine belong to Safari Magazine and/or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or without due acknowledgement.

www.zambiatravelmagazine.com

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May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

A WORD FROM THE MD

WELCOME

TO ISSUE 18 OF TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA & ZIMBABWE MAGAZINE

TO FOLLOW

[ PHOTO: Chiawa Safaris ]

The year 2020 has been the most difficult year the world over due to the ravaging effects of Covid-19 and the tourism sector has been one of the hardest hit by this pandemic. As the world slowly and cautiously begins to open, we are very relieved that we can publish this Issue 18 after suspending business for five months. Zambia has been officially endorsed as a ‘safe travel’ destination by the World Travel & Tourism Council. Our country is open and welcoming international tourists without any country restrictions, and entry screening is conducted at all airports. All travellers coming into the country are required to provide a negative SARS-CoV-2 PCR test result which should have been conducted within the previous 14 days. Tourists coming into the country without evidence of a negative SARS-CoV-2 PCR test will not be allowed entry. In this edition we focus on the Victoria Falls (p4), one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. It’s the world’s largest body of falling water and the mist can be seen for 30 miles around; staggeringly, the water drops a massive 354 feet. On (p51) we look at 20 reasons to visit Victoria Falls town. Perhaps you love horses and are a keen rider—if so, do have a look at Simalaha Horse Safaris (p8). Elsewhere, we interview Nick Aslin from Zambian Ground Handlers (p13), and if you enjoy throwing a line in you can find out the best places to fish on the great Zambezi River in Zimbabwe (p48). Also, we would like to welcome Lyn Grandemange to our team as our new layout and art director. I hope you will enjoy the magazine’s new look.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

[

ANDREW MUSWALA

]

And finally, we would like to pay tribute to the tireless and devoted work of all the rangers and workers for wildlife and conservation who continue to protect our precious inheritance throughout these difficult times. We salute their devotion to all the creatures they, and we, love. We believe you will enjoy reading this publication and that hopefully it will help you plan your next visit to Zambia and Zimbabwe. We believe you will enjoy reading this publication and that hopefully it will help you plan your next visit to Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Happy Reading!

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | A WALK ON THE WILDSIDE

A Walk

ON THE WILD SIDE [ WRITER: Stephanie Naidoo ]

[ PHOTO: Robin Pope Safaris ] For those wanting to get closer to nature, a walking safari has got to be one of the most authentic and exhilarating ways to appreciate the African wilderness. There is nothing quite so liberating as exploring on foot, not being confined to a vehicle and thus able to go off the beaten track. How did walking safaris come about? South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is the home of the walking safari, however African safaris had to evolve quite a bit to get to where they are today. Norman Carr is widely recognized as one of the early pioneers of the photographic safari experience in Zambia and particularly for spearheading the concept of walking safaris. Prior to him, a typical safari to Africa was for trophy hunting only but through his love for wildlife he managed to shift the paradigm and promoted the idea of people coming on safari purely to look and observe the wildlife and the surroundings. Today many of the original photographic camps that pioneered walking safaris are still accessible, like Nsefu Camp which was set up in the 1950’s and has gained notable popularity within the safari world! But what makes South Luangwa National Park so special?

Many places profess to be “among the last untouched wilderness areas” or “wildlife sanctuaries”; South Luangwa National Park TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

lives up to both these accolades and more. The South Luangwa National Park is 9,050 square kilometre; with the river, its tributaries and the riverine strips being the focus of the wildlife viewing. There are diverse habitats, from huge ox bow lagoons of varying stages of maturity, woodlands, ebony groves, grassland and thickets, that host a great variety of wildlife. Tracking Wildlife Aside from taking in the sights and sounds of the bushveld, walking safaris are to a larger extent focused on tracking wildlife, such as cats as well as the larger game including elephants, kudu, elands and giraffe. You are forced to use all your senses, giving you a chance to touch, smell, feel and hear everything around you, analyzing different animal tracks, dung, broken foliage nearby with the help of the experienced guide. Although tracking requires patience and perseverance it is so very rewarding sensory and social experience! Jason Alfonsi has been

A WALK ON THE WILDSIDE | ZAMBIA leading walking safaris for over 20 years in the South Luangwa National Park. He had the following to say: “As a guide you cannot push or force experiences. Everything has to fall into place naturally. Giving the animals as much time as they need to decide on their course of action and not rushing them usually leads to more interesting encounters. These encounters can bring wonderful experiences and we as guides are highly trained to safely appreciate them when we are in the right place at the right time.” Aside from the big game, walking allows you to experience the little things which are completely missed when in a vehicle, from investigating ancient termite mounds or interesting bird’s nests to finding the rather shy sand lions. Walking Experiences in South Luangwa Several of the big safari operators in the South Luangwa National Park offer Mobile Safaris whereby the focus is strictly walking and you change camp locations several times during the trip. They are usually about 5-7days long and guests will walk about 10 kilometre per day. A typical day on a walking safari will start off just before sunrise. The air is cool and the bush is still. After a light breakfast the walk begins and depending on what you find, you can end up deep within the bush or even ankle deep in

a river. There is never a set plan of what route you will take, making it that more exciting. The accommodation is usually comfortable meru style tents and the food first class, despite the lack of proper stoves and electricity. While guests are out on their walk, the camp will be broken down and moved to the next spot, with everything perfectly set up and

ready for when the guests get there. After the morning walk is done, a hearty brunch followed by a much needed siesta before guests are back out again in time to enjoy yet another beautiful sunset in Africa. Once back in camp, there is nothing like winding down with a hot shower under the stars, which is all possible on these mobile walking safaris, and are such a treat.

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | A WALK ON THE WILDSIDE

These mobile walking safaris are the perfect way to connect with nature and completely disconnect from the outside world, which does wonders for the mind, body and soul. For those who find a mobile walking safari rather daunting, there is also the opportunity to do short walks from the camp or lodge they are staying at in South Luangwa thus still getting to experience the magic of being on foot in the wilderness but without having to spend 5-7 days in the remote parts of the park. Many who have experienced a walking safari in Zambia have compared them to a bygone era, and likened them to what David Livingstone’s expedition in Africa must have felt like. The future of walking safaris As the travel industry continues to adapt and adjust to the ‘new normal’ in the wake of the covid-19 pandemic, the need for people to reconnect with nature has never been more apparent. Holidays such as walking safaris should be on everyone’s radar as the lack of crowds and open air activities in the vast wilderness make for a safer and more responsible experience. We also have to acknowledge the shift in peoples need to travel with intent and purpose. The demand for more immersive and experiential trips has increased within the last decade and walking safaris ticks all those boxes. Walking safaris are a treat for all the senses and everyone should experience walking in the wild at least once in their lifetime!

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | SPONSORED | CONSERVATION SOUTH LUANGWA

[ An all ladies community game drive ]

EASING THE BURDEN OF COVID 19 IMPACTS IN COMMUNITIES SURROUNDING [ WRITER: Rachel McRobb, CEO CSL ]

South Luangwa

[ PHOTO: Conservation South Luangwa ]

The wildlife stronghold of the South Luangwa Valley, is Zambia’s premiere safari tourism destination and is home to many of the countries important populations of wildlife. With over a dozen established lodges and 20+ bush camps in South Luangwa, businesses are normally thriving at this time of year, and a very large local service sector is key to this lucrative and growing wildlife-based economy. In 2020, the COVID-19 crisis suddenly threw this economy, ecosystem, and its dependent communities into an unprecedented emergency.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

CONSERVATION SOUTH LUANGWA | SPONSORED | ZAMBIA

[ Enjoying a break during the game drive ] With the global collapse of tourism and air-travel, most of these businesses came to a grinding halt and an estimated 800 safari employees are currently not working or at home on reduced wages, with large numbers of dependent family members. All lodges are doing all they can to support their staff during this time. A spike in wildlife snaring and conflict was expected as communities unsurprisingly turn to natural resources to survive. In an effort to ease the burden of COVID 19

impacts in local communities and retain and increase trust and tolerance from communities and tourism staff towards conservation partners, Conservation South Luangwa (CSL) and the Zambian Carnivore program (ZCP) implemented community game drives and community clean sweeps in 2020 with financial support from Lion Recovery Fund. These activities aim to engage communities to deliver paid conservation services at the same time as putting essential financial income in to individual households and villages during

uncertain times of hunger and poverty. Community Game Drives The Experience, Enjoy, Protect Community game drives have been a huge success with the first drives starting at the end of July. To date, almost 900 people have been on a game drive of which 59% had never been on a drive before. Ages ranged from 5 to 85 years old and 58 % were female. $4500 / K90,000 has been paid out to safaris guides and local vehicle owners.

[ Community based safari guide and local vehicle hire ]

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | SPONSORED | CONSERVATION SOUTH LUANGWA

[ Clean sweep team at the end of the sweep ] Clean Sweeps The unique ‘Clean Sweeps’ program is also directly targeted at engaging community members usually employed by the tourism industry but currently not due to COVID. Each person is paid for conservation services on a daily basis and a monthly roster drawn up for daily clean sweeps. This program has also been hugely successful with over 450 snares being removed in four months and 700 people engaged in this work and $9000 / K180,000 paid out to tourism staff. For the wildlife, this resulted in zero snared lions reported in South Luangwa, the first time in over a decade. We intend to keep both of the programs running throughout 2021.

[ Clean sweep team at work ] 12

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

KAZA TFCA | ZAMBIA

The Importance of

THE KAZA TFCA IN A POST-COVID WORLD

[ WRITER: Shelley Cox – Africa Conservation Travel ] At an estimated 520,000 square kilometres, the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) is the world’s largest Transboundary protected area, occupying the Okavango and Zambezi river basins, and encompassing diverse habitats within the borders of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. KAZA TFCA includes 36 formally proclaimed national parks and a host of game reserves, forest reserves, wildlife management areas, communal lands, and conservation and tourism concession areas.

[ PHOTO: Freepix.com / Africa Conservation Travel ]

Formally established in August 2011, when the Presidents of all five countries signed a treaty, the KAZA TFCA vision was “to establish a world-class transfrontier conservation and tourism destination area within the context of sustainable development.” The concept of which is to sustainably manage the KavangoZambezi ecosystem, its heritage and cultural resources based on best conservation and tourism models for the socio-economic wellbeing of the communities and other stakeholders in and around the region through harmonization of policies, strategies and practices.

Three clear dimensions were to be the focal priority of the KAZA TFCA 1. Species – improved habitat connectivity, especially for flagship species such as elephants and large carnivores 2.

Habitat – improved management effectiveness and governance of the protected areas

People – Improved livelihoods for communities affected by human-wildlife cohabitation

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | KAZA TFCA

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

KAZA TFCA | ZAMBIA

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | KAZA TFCA

Africa has nearly 2,000 key biodiversity areas and supports the world’s most diverse and abundant large mammal populations. The backbone of African conservation efforts is made up of an estimated 7,800 terrestrial protected areas covering 5.3 million square kilometres, with the Kavango-Zambezi making up one tenth of this, with many of the member states far exceeding the global average of protected areas. In a post-COVID world, the concept and full implementation of the KAZA TFCA is going to be more important than ever. Biodiversity loss has been identified as one of the major threats to global prosperity and this has become even more evident under the current COVID-19 crisis. Progressive deforestation, inappropriate land use systems and poaching – combined with illegal trade in wildlife– are having a detrimental effect on the quality of the natural ecosystems globally. Besides the threat of more pandemics and disease, the loss of biodiversity has potential to cause climate change issues such as droughts and / or extensive and deadly flooding, clean water shortages, loss of crop pollination amongst a host of other serious risks. By joining fragmented wildlife habitats to form an interconnected mosaic of protected areas and transboundary wildlife corridors, the KAZA TFCA allows for population and genetic exchange between core wildlife areas which are vital to the overall functioning of a healthy ecosystem, and in particular to endangered or keystone species such as Elephants and Lions, whilst also preventing damage to natural habitats. In addition, by re-connecting ecologically important areas for congested wildlife populations to move between, the wildlife corridors allow for an enlarged distribution range and free movement, which ultimately aims to reduce humanwildlife conflict. There is a misperception that nature is “getting a break” from humans during the COVID-19 pandemic. The sad reality is that the COVID-19 pandemic is actually having a negative impact

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

on conservation efforts. The loss of tourism has meant a lesser presence on the ground to deter poaching activities, and reduced resources across areas which have been economically dependent on tourism have put a strain on ongoing conservation efforts. People who have lost employment are returning to rural homes, further increasing the pressure on natural resources, and there has been a rise in bushmeat consumption across Africa. The integrated regional approach of KAZA TFCA allows for increased wildlife awareness amongst communities, strengthening of anti-poaching and surveillance capacities, improved knowledge on wildlife crime dynamics and impacts, and enhanced sharing of related information and data amongst law enforcement authorities. In addition, by pooling information and resources across the region through the KAZA TFCA programmes, there is potential to increase the “boots on the ground” for anti-poaching and surveillance. Given that one of the objectives of the KAZA TFCA is to increase and enhance sustainable socio-economic development to aid in alleviating poverty, the COVID-19 pandemic has highlighted the heavy reliance on tourism for a large portion of the communities living in the region, as well as the interconnectedness of various stakeholders and sectors, showcasing how vital collaboration is going to be for healthy ecosystems to be maintained, businesses to once again thrive, and for sustainable tourism economies and resilient livelihoods to become effective. Now more than ever strategies will need to be put in place to include increasing local employment, improving the skills of local employees, increasing the number of local tourism enterprises and supporting joint venture partnerships between the private sector and rural communities. Increasing local procurement, ensuring the equitable distribution of benefits, mitigating the costs facing rural communities living with wildlife and ensuring the provision of appropriate infrastructure and services will all be important components of a benefit maximising strategy in the recovery process.

In addition, market research suggests that post-COVID-19 travellers will be seeking out safe and quality experiences in natural wide open spaces. Therefore, it is imperative that protected areas are prepared for directing this surge towards positive outcomes. The Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, as the largest protected area in the world, with its natural diversity of landscapes and wide open spaces therefore sits as an ideal post-COVID destination for travellers. According to Netsai Bollmann, AFC/Gopa Senior Regional Expert and Team Leader on behalf of the SADC/GIZ Transboundary Use and Protection of Natural Resources (TUPNR) Programme, “the KAZA Secretariat, in close collaboration with Partner States and private sector stakeholders, is working to support a ‘safe reopening and rebuilding of tourism destinations in KAZA’ through facilitating a ‘KAZA Safe Tourism Initiative’ . This initiative seeks to develop a framework of harmonised COVID-19 guidelines, protocols and procedures. Once finalised, and if approved through the official structures of KAZA Partner States, it is hoped that this framework will support lobbying and advocacy efforts towards the lifting of international travel warnings and restrictions, and also restore traveler confidence, particularly with respect to key long-haul source markets for the KAZA region.” According to numerous surveys being conducted by the tourism sector, it is anticipated that in a post-COVID world, the popularity of and interest in travellers moving between safe travel zones and within areas which promote sustainable development, economic upliftment to local communities and conservation of biodiversity, is only going to increase. Therefore, the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area sits as a prime destination for post-COVID travel and with essential and effective frameworks and implementation, could be set for a strong recovery.

A WATER WONDERLAND | ZAMBIA

A Water

WONDERLAND [ WRITER: Sarah Kingdom ]

[ PHOTO: Linde Meintjes ]

Zambia is home to an incredible amount of water. It is estimated that almost 30% of all the fresh water in Africa originates in Zambia, and a large proportion of this is in the country’s Northern provinces. A myriad of beautiful waterfalls, the Chambeshi River (headwaters of the mighty Congo River), Lake Bangwelu, Lake Mweru and Lake Tanganyika are all found here.

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | A WINTER WONDERLAND

Heading north, our first destination was Lake Bangwelu. Bangwelu meaning ‘where the water meets the sky’ is very aptly named; indeed when you look at the lake it is hard to tell where the water ends and the sky begins. After arriving in Samfya we spent the afternoon on the top deck at Chita Lodge. A cold beer in hand and a constant cool breeze blowing, a magnificent view of the lake… the perfect end to a long day’s drive. Lake Bangwelu is a beauty among Zambia’s lakes; at 50 kilometre long and about

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

25 kilometre wide it is probably the largest body of water within Zambia’s borders. It is also part of one of the world’s greatest wetland systems; comprising the lake itself, the Bangwelu Swamps (home of the famous Shoebill and the endemic Black Lechwe) and the Bangwelu Floodplains. The Bangwelu wetland system is crucial to the economy and biodiversity of northern Zambia and also to the birdlife of a much larger region. Sadly it does face a number environmental stresses and conservation issues.

Fed by 17 rivers, of which the Chambeshi is the largest, and drained by the Luapula River, Lake Bangwelu and its wetlands receive some of the highest rainfall in Zambia, over 1,400ml per annum. Despite being a shallow lake, averaging a depth of only 4m, the surface area of the lake expands from its dry season size of 3,000 kilometre squared to over 15,000 kilometre squared by the end of the rains, when water floods into the swamps and plains. There are numerous waterfalls in this part of Zambia and all of them are spectacularly beautiful. From the roaring Lumangwe Falls to the picturesque Ntumbachusi Falls, and Africa’s second highest waterfall, Kalambo Falls, that empties into Lake Tanganyika. Many of these northern waterfalls, these hidden gems of Zambia, are rarely visited, several are virtually unknown and are all the more magnificent for it. Leaving Samfya we headed for Ntumbachusi Falls, 15 kilometre west of Zambia’s tea growing area, Kawambwa. Just one kilometre off the main tar road we found the beautiful 30 meters high network of cascading water, with an array of crocodile free swimming holes above the Falls and a picturesque camp/picnic site at their base. The waterfall was believed to be a sanctuary of spirits and the waters of the Ng’ona River are used to bath new chiefs, washing away bad luck before they are installed on the throne. Given the Falls proximity to the main road we were surprised to see in the visitors’ book that we were the first people to come this way for many, many days.

A WATER WONDERLAND | ZAMBIA

There has clearly been an age old attraction to Ntumbachusi Falls judging by the collection of ancient bushman rock art in the immediate vicinity. A local guide hiked with us above the Falls and showed us what we would have struggled to find on our own; these paintings may date back over 10,000 years. Much of the art was of geometric designs, though we did also see a lovely painting of a giraffe, very faded by time. Next stop, Lumangwe Falls. Legend has it that the area was home of the Great Snake Spirit, who was said to stretch itself out from the Lumangwe Falls to the Kabweluma Falls, 5 kilometre away. For us though, they represented a 9 kilometre detour off the Kawambwa to Mporokoso road, and was well worth the visit. Isolated in Miombo woodlands, these falls are one of Zambia’s best kept secrets. Located, on the Kalungwishi River, close to the DRC and Lake Mweru, it is an absolutely spectacular waterfall, over 100 metres wide and 35 metres high. An astounding drop in the middle of nowhere, Lumangwe is sometimes referred to as the Victoria Falls of the north; though it is stunning in its own right. After getting completely soaked by the spray from the top, we went down the steep path to the wide misty pool in the gorge at the base of the Falls. An absolutely breathtaking sight, with the roar of water falling just in front of us giving a real sense of the power and volume of the falls. Unfortunately we had to cut our visit here short, we still had a long way to drive that day and had slightly miscalculated road conditions. We now realised the dirt road to Mporokoso was going to take us much longer than anticipated. Getting into Kasama in time for a late supper, we promptly fell into bed. The next day was on to Mbala (where incidentally the Germans surrendered to the British at the end of WWI, three days after the armistice in Europe) and finally to Mpulungu,

the town on the southernmost tip of Lake Tanganyika. Here we biarded a small boat to our final destination. A tiny beach of beautiful white sand, swaying palm trees and three thatched bungalows, Luke’s Beach is a secluded paradise and eco lodge. Situated in Mishembe Bay, a sandy inlet that is one of the last bays before the Tanzanian border, it is one of the most relaxing places we have ever stayed in Zambia. Lake Tanganyika is the world’s second oldest, second largest by volume and second deepest lake (in each case coming in ‘second’ to Lake Baikal in Siberia). Measuring 673 kilometre though, it is the world’s longest lake. Tanganyika holds a staggering 17% of the world’s fresh water. Shared between four countries, Tanzania and the Congo DR have the lion’s share of the lake, with Zambia claiming to only 7% of this vast inland sea’s surface area.

an important archaeological site, with continuous human occupation spanning over 250,000 years. Kalambo Falls is on the tentative list for recognition as a protected World Heritage site. Northern Zambia is one of nature’s best kept secrets. Sacred, mysterious and beautiful, the rivers cascade in fabulous displays of falling water; remote, uncommercialised, yet truly spectacular. With about 10 different waterfalls in the area, having only visited three we barely scratched the surface and will be back again soon for more. Combine these rivers and falls with the beautiful lakes of Bangwelu and Tanganyika and you have found a real water wonderland.

Regarded as one of the most biologically unique habitats on earth, Lake Tanganyika has approximately 450 species of fish, including tiger fish, Nile perch (which can grow to an incredible 80kg) and a vivid array of tropical fish. There are about 250 species of cichlids in the lake, with 98% of these being endemic; many of these cichlids have become quite localized, some found only in single bays. A four hour round trip hike from Luke’s Beach is Kalambo Falls, Africa’s second highest single drop waterfall and the 12th highest in the world. With a 221 meters single drop into the gorge below, Kalambo Falls is twice the height of the Victoria Falls. The climb from the lake is steep, but definitely rewarding, with spectacular views from the escarpment. From viewpoints near the top of the falls you can see the Kalambo River plummeting over the cliffs and into the deep gorge below, before winding its way the 5km to Lake Tanganyika. The area around Kalambo Falls is considered May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | A HIDDEN GEM | SPONSORED

KASANKA A Hidden Gem [ WRITER: Sarah Kingdom ]

[ PHOTO: Christopher Walti, Chris Meyer ]

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

SPONSORED | A HIDDEN GEM | ZAMBIA

As dusk falls they begin to depart, flocking into the sky. Flying out in fits and starts. Some head out, change their minds and turn back, only to try again a few minutes later. The sky fills with chatter as the bats dart in and out of the trees, like a swarm of overgrown bees. It’s the end of November and there are at least eight million fruit bats filling the skies, at eye level with our perch in the top of the tree hide. We watch and wait, until it’s almost too dark to see the ladder down. The sky is empty. The bats have vanished. The sound of thunder gets closer, as we descend the ladder and make our way back to the vehicle. Fat drops of rain fall as we drive back to camp. Early morning mist hovers over the marshland as the sun began to rise, turning the sky a pale pink. From our perch in Vivienne’s hide, the flood plain is below us and, we watch as one by one, sitatunga emerged from the dense beds of reeds and papyrus and begin grazing in the open floodplain. Sitatunga are early risers and most active just after dawn, which is why we are here, coffee in hand, as the sun comes up. Kasanka National Park is one of the best places in the world to spot this secretive, semi-aquatic antelope, the park is home to more than 500, and we spend several hours watching them. As the sun rises higher in the sky, a herd of elephants make their way across the flood plain, and one by one the sitatunga melt away into the reeds. Delighted with our morning, we headed back to camp. At the end of the day we returned to Vivienne’s Hide for sundowners, and as the sun began to sink in the sky and we were rewarded with a spectacular sunset, tinting the flood plain orange and scarlet. The grazing sitatunga glowed golden in the fading light. We stayed till we could see them no longer and as the moon rose, climbed down the ladder and left them in peace.

world’s best kept secrets. Scientists don’t know exactly where the bats come from, nor where they go to after leaving the tiny little patch of forest they call home for a few months every year. Arriving at Kasanka in the late afternoon, we head out to one of the parks ‘bat hides’. Climbing the 13m from ground to the wooden platform, wrapped around the tree trunk, we grip tightly to the handrails. An orange hue lights the sky and bolts of jagged lightning strike the horizon. In the forest below, no larger than a hectare, the trees start to tremble, as the bats hanging from their branches start to stir from their slumber.

At 3:45am the next morning I emerge from my room, rubbing sleep from my eyes. Coming face to face with a bush baby, clinging to a branch overhanging our verandah, we stare silently at one another as I pass. I am on my way to see the bats returning to roost after a night foraging for wild fruit. Climbing onto the back of the vehicle, I wrap myself in a blanket, as we set off to the bat forest. It’s still dark as we park the vehicle and, walking through the forest, the bats flutter and feast in the trees above. The sun rises and bats start returning to the roost. Coming from all directions. Splashes of scarlet and gold light the sky, silhouetting the bats as they flock back to the colony. A breath-taking sight and definitely worth the early morning wake up. At roughly 390 km2, Kasanka is one of Zambia’s smallest national parks, yet home to some of its greatest treasures.

Kasanka National Park is one of Zambia’s smallest national parks, but one of its hidden treasures. What it lacks in size, this peaceful little park makes up for in diversity. With rivers, lakes, wetlands, forest and dambos, the park is picturesque, and with an incredible 480 bird species and 114 mammals, there is a lot too for you to see. Sitatunga aside, Kasanka is also home to a unique and spectacular annual migration of Straw-Coloured Fruit Bats. Between October and December each year, about 10 million of these bats descend onto a tiny patch of evergreen forest inside the park. They come to feast on wild fruit that appears with the first rains. The migration is one of the natural May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | PARADISE FOUND

PARADISE FOUND [ WRITER: Ngosa Chungu ] [ PHOTO: Le Elementos Hotel ] There is nothing more luxurious than having options. That is what Manthis offerings in Zambia provide - different experiences that ultimately deliver the same promise because they take advantage of their unique settings to create unforgettable getaway experiences - in tune with their environment and specific to the traveller in mind. Le Elementos is a hidden gem of a boutique hotel located in the heart of Lusaka that is a pleasure to discover and rediscover. Tucked away off one of the main feeder roads in the capital, resides this oasis for the city dweller to take a much needed staycation, a multifunctional space for events and business needs, or a conveniently positioned home away from home for the business traveller. The earthy tones of the building material, the vibrant colour palette of the decor, the use of natural light through open plan spaces and skylights, as well as the beautifully landscaped deck, create a relaxing feeling of serenity. The hotel manages to shield itself from the hustle and bustles of the city, cocooning you from the moment you step through its glass doors. At night the lighting design creates a glow both outside and in projecting a gravitas that adds to this warmth. The place invites you to make it your own, no matter how you encounter

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

PARADISE FOUND | ZAMBIA it. As you explore, you realise this is somewhere you can come back to over and over again, because it can easily adapt to your needs to continually create unforgettable experiences. The best thing about Le Elementos is the staff. The environment they create matches the modern comfort of the rooms and the quiet elegance of the spaces. Every time you walk in, you are greeted with signature Zambian warmth and hospitality. Everyone is eager to attend to your needs and the service is impeccable. If you are staying to get away, you can let go of the heaviness of life, as everything is taken care of. If there for business or an event, you can count on not having to worry about troubleshooting, for everyone is there to ensure that your use of the outdoor or indoor spaces runs smoothly. No matter your intentions, the service ensures that your stay and purpose is uplifting. The intimacy of the surroundings is matched by the way you are catered to. This ethos extends to Manthis’ rural option in Western Province. Although set deep in Limulunga, a spralling town one and a half hours from Mongu, Ikithe evokes the same sentiments and is able to mirror the functions that make sense in its setting. As you trek through the white sand, undulating as your car cuts through the slippery terrain, you wonder whether you will sink before you get to swim in Lake Makapaela. The drive is part of the experience - it sets your mind for what you are about to witness. As the town transitions from buildings and road, to sand pathways and village dwellings, you shift down to a different speed and start to look at things through a different lens. Ikithe’s gates are suddenly upon you and as you drive up to the reception area, you are greeted with a rustic luxury that whets the appetite for a stay rooted in nature, tradition and delivered with the class modernity has to offer. The boutique lodge is designed to blend in, paying homage to its surroundings. Following the natural line set by Lake Makapaela, the establishment is built to lead to and honour the water, echoing the traditions of the tribes that live in the area. Even with all the modern amenities, you still feel like you are at one with nature, in another place and time. No more so than at night, with no light pollution to dim the brightness of the stars in the sky. The rooms feel like they have sprung from the ground, shaped like tree trunks that have been hollowed out to create a set of intimate spaces, giving the feeling of a special, personal getaway. The natural tones and use of stone and wood coupled with the afrochic decor create a magical ambience, like the place rose up from the sand to create this oasis in the “desert”. The communal multi purpose areas are no different the great hall with the traditional instruments and seating evokes a majestic intimacy, the dining areas each feel contained yet are open to the beauty of the scenery and the pool area is designed to create community. Lake Makapeala does not disappoint no matter when you interact with it. The fact that you are able to access such untouched beauty is an indulgence that encourages a humble and respectful reflection on being able to travel to such an amazing site of natural beauty. This is a spot to lose yourself in, whether to escape and recharge for pleasure, or to provide a conducive bonding environment without distractions on for a workshop or retreat. What makes going out to Ikithe truly worth it is the interaction with the community that live around the lake. Watching local fishermen go out for their daily catch offers the perfect opportunity to practice those amateur photography skills. For a more hands on experience, you can go on the water yourself in the same boats they use and cross the lake with a guide, to hike through a village situated on the other side. You can also visit the village next door on a guided tour by foot, and purchase curios made by local craftspeople. The fulfilment from holistically contributing to the rhythm and economy of the area adds another dimension to visiting. If you are looking to visit Lusaka but don’t want to feel like you are staying in the city, Le Elementos is the perfect place to base your trip around. If you yearn for an unconventional beach experience in unchartered territory, the adventure of Ikithe is what you are looking for. Both locations offer a chance to find paradise in the most unexpected places and will have you planning your next trip back before you’ve even left. May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | BUSASANGA PLAINS

ISOLATING ON THE

BUSANGA PLAINS KAFUE NATIONAL PARK: OCTOBER 2020 [ PHOTO’S: Mama Tembo Tours, Jeffery & McKeith Safaris ]

[ WRITER: Leslie Nevison ]

I glance in the rear-view mirror in time to see lightning strike the ground behind the vehicle in an enormous explosion of sparks. The thunder is deafening. The earth beneath us shudders from the shockwave and I am thankful that we sit on four rubber tyres.

drinks — sundowners are a daily rite — whether there is a sunset or not is immaterial. When the rain eases enough to dash from the vehicle to the tent, we opt for an early sleep. Rain drums on the canvas over our heads. In the morning, the sky is a clear blue, although it is now pouring insects, winged, soft and hard-shelled bugs of every size and shape. Never let insects put you off an African safari, although there are many of them during the rainy season. Insects are crucial players in a healthy ecosystem.

We are on the Busanga Plains of Kafue National Park, sheltering from the first big storm of the rainy season. We have managed to erect the tent and arrange camp before the storm begins. The car becomes the best place for the safari tradition of sundowner

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

BUSASANGA PLAINS | ZAMBIA

In the far north of Zambia’s Kafue National Park, Busanga is the floodplain of the Lufupa River, submerged for many months of the year and dotted with islands of wild date palms, fig trees, papyrus beds, lily-covered lagoons and woodlands. Herds of red lechwe leaping across swampy channels are Busanga’s most iconic sight, another is Busanga’s muscular black-maned lion. Cheetah, leopard, wild dog, Cape buffalo, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, blue wildebeest, defassa waterbuck, puku, roan, sable, sitatunga antelope, side-striped jackals, spotted hyena and elephant also inhabit Busanga’s plains. Crowned and wattled cranes, the largest on the continent, are regulars. Busanga is, without question, among Africa’s most under-visited and unique wildlife destinations. What you don’t see in Busanga is people. Its remoteness is one

challenge for potential visitors, but access has become easier in recent years. There is a 4x4 track along the western boundary of the park which enables a circular dry-season driving route for those who want to go by road. We have entered through Kafue National Park’s Chunga Gate at Hook Bridge and intend exiting through Tatayoyo Gate where the western boundary road meets the Great West Road. In a typical season, Staravia Air Charters fly to Busanga’s airstrip from both Lusaka and Livingstone. Busanga has had to compete for visitors’ time and budgets against better known Zambian national parks such as South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi, but please understand that Busanga is as special as other Zambian highlights. If each one of Busanga’s five accommodation options, which sleep a maximum of ten guests, is full every night, it means that less than sixty people enjoy its 13,679 square kilometres at any one time. This is especially relevant in this time of Covid.

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | BUSASANGA PLAINS Small and remote lodges and camps make social distancing simpler in ways that city accommodation and large resorts cannot. In that regard Busanga is among Zambia’s most socially distanced of destinations! During a non-Covid affected season, the closest do-it-yourself camping site is several hours drive from the Busanga Plains. Selfdrivers undertake day trips. The silver lining in 2020’s Covid clouds is that Zambian domestic tourism has received a boost. We will camp for the next five days at Jeffery and McKeith Safaris bush camp at Busanga called Ntemwa. In the absence of international travellers, Ntemwa is open to residents. We bring tents and food. Flush loos, bucket showers and running water are provided. It is easy to picture what Ntemwa looks like when prepared for international clientele. Cushions and comfy seats, placed strategically for sunset viewing, would ordinarily be strewn under an expansive Bedouin-style tent. Now we open our own camp chairs to take advantage of the stretch tent’s shade. To be honest, it is fun having Ntemwa to ourselves. Yet, I perfectly understand how postponing a 2020 African safari feels. Safaris have a profound and positive effect on one’s mental wellness, a state of mind which benefits Africa as well. While you have the time of your life, your tourism dollars provide jobs and support wildlife conservation and community initiatives. Not only has Ntemwa welcomed us as campers. Nearby Kasonso Camp (opened in 2019 by Northern Kafue Safaris which also operate Kafue River Lodge and Kikuji Camp) has offered us one of the best guides in Busanga and the Kafue, Ferrison Muleka, for two days. Ferrison and I have bonded previously over a shared pangolin sighting in the Kafue. Here is more advice: by all means, self-drive to your destination but leave the game drives to the expertise of the guides whose vocations are their local wilderness. In Busanga’s case too, game drive trails are not marked which makes the services of a guide a wise decision. We see a great deal with Ferrison, a dominant male lion known as Scarface mating with a lioness, lion cubs, cheetah and (my favourite) a herd of 80-strong thirsty elephants emerging from the cool of the Kapinga Forest to march in single file to the river one late afternoon. Three months after the Busanga safari, the present remains as unprecedented as ever and the future as uncertain. Every day brings a complicated mix of good and bad news. The image of the enormous herd of elephants remains with us. It is sustenance. On that day it felt as though the pandemic did not exist and that we had already welcomed the return of the future.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | DESTINATION LIVINGSTONE | SPONSORED

Destination LIVINGSTONE

[ WRITER: Rosie Mercer, Lute Maekaeka Kazembe ] [ PHOTO: Tony Barnett, Livingstone Film Makers ] Destination Livingstone was established in 2020 to make Livingstone a more attractive and competitive tourist destination. Our goal is to increase the long-term social and economic benefits that tourism can bring to the people, businesses and the local economy of Livingstone. We aim to see that Livingstone continues to become a better place for people to live, work and visit. Our approach is innovative in that private, public and community sectors are all represented on the DL Board and Working Groups which is a new business model in the City. We have many projects under way and provide a little taster in the two examples below.

What sets us apart from many other destinations is our history which can be evidenced very clearly in our city centre buildings. We are working with the National Heritage Conservation Commission to monitor and assess those buildings which are already under protection orders. With the City Council we will seek to encourage locals to preserve other significant buildings and create an historical quarter in the city. We plan on putting up information boards at key buildings in the city centre to improve knowledge and awareness of their history and enhance the walks around Livingstone. Cities for Infrastructure and Growth (CIGZambia), a UKAID funding programme is working with us to enhance the historic core of our city.

flora and fauna in the area, the human history including local tribe dispersion, as well as the key people who brought the Falls to worldwide attention. This project requires advice and support in order to produce the best of modern design for a new facility, assistance in storytelling and how to deliver through digital means, improved methods of monitoring visitors, and data collection improvements for future planning of the site. CBI Netherlands is supporting us in this work.

Livingstone shares the wonderful Victoria Falls with Zimbabwe with joint responsibility to protect, preserve and promote this World Heritage site. To do it justice we have started planning a new Visitor’s Information Centre at the Falls site. This will engage our visitors in better understanding of the geological formation of the gorges and the Falls, the

Livingstone is full of stories. There is rich local knowledge, ancient legends and traditions, colonial and industrial history and personal stories that bring it all to life. Livingstone is also home to a large number of artists and we celebrate the talent of our people.

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Less than one year on from our inception, there is plenty of energy and excitement in our small team and we thank Prospero Zambia Limited for their financial support. FOREST OF FACES

We are looking for new ways to bring both

together - the stories and the artists - and the Forest of Faces is our new and truly amazing public art installation. 21 local artists have produced spectacular 3-4 metre high tree sculptures to resemble our very own forest in the centre of the city. They tell the stories of the Mukuni tribe and the ILA people; give us food for thought in the Great Wise Thinker and the Brave Man; showcase our wildlife in the Big 5 and the Giraffe and sadden us with George the Baboon. Development of the premier location in Livingstone – our Civic Centre - into a confident tourism attraction thereby creating a visitor hub, is a huge opportunity for our local people to be innovative and use their entrepreneurship to get fully involved and benefit directly from tourism. We are proud of who we are and confident that we can capture the passion and enthusiasm of our people to share the heart and soul of Livingstone. By doing so we provide exactly the immersive experiences our visitors are searching for.

SPONSORED | DESTINATION LIVINGSTONE | ZAMBIA International visitors love ‘local’; they want to ‘travel like a local’, meet local people, gain local knowledge, learn local skills, eat local food, understand local cultures, and most importantly for us, they want to see their money retained locally. This will be a place where people who are tucked away in river lodges, who never see town, will eagerly want visit to find out what’s happening!! DOMESTIC TOURISM “The best part is the people, very welcoming and always willing to assist!” This is a comment from a Zambian visitor to Livingstone echoing most domestic tourists. On the bucket list for most Zambians, a visit to Livingstone is a must. In 2018, there were 199,501 visitors to the Victoria Falls, 15% more than in 2017; twothirds of the total came from Zambia. Livingstone Museum received 37,743 visits in 2018, 8% more than in 2017, and two-thirds of these visits were by Zambians. Information on the Zambian domestic market is inadequate, limiting the ability of tourism business operators in product development. A senior government official from the Ministry of Tourism and Arts noted the lack of information on the particular needs, challenges of the domestic tourist, and the many assumptions made about the consumer profile regarding preferred services, including accommodation facilities. Anecdotal reports, reviews from on-line travel agents, and comments on social media show that negative and often incorrect beliefs persist on cost of services and products such as activities, range of accommodation facilities and activities offered in Livingstone. One traveller commented, “I’m guessing its expensive, we might as well go out of the country”. Destination Livingstone commissioned a survey on the Zambian domestic travel market to examine trends, challenges, and opportunities. The survey being conducted in Lusaka, Copperbelt and North-Western provinces in Zambia, will inform tourism operators on consumer behaviour in the tourism centre of Livingstone, hardest hit by the loss of business because of Covid-19. Preliminary results of the survey are expected in April, and will be shared with tourist business operators, suppliers, and stakeholders. Destination Livingstone was funded by Prospero Zambia Limited to undertake this Domestic Tourism Assessment project - Stage 1 is the Market Research and Stage 2 is a social media marketing campaign to attract more home grown tourists into Livingstone. Watch out for social media action on facebook, instagram, twitter and on our website. LOVE LIVINGSTONE How a family of 4 can Love Livingstone? “I hope you have rates for locals, your prices discourage Zambians to come through”. Says one of the local tourists. So, can a domestic tourist afford to come to Livingstone and enjoy themselves? The quick answer is an enthusiastic yes! Livingstone has accommodation facilities that range from guest houses, bed and breakfasts and lodges in and around the town centre with prices starting at K500 for two, and self-catering lodges along the Airport Road with prices starting at K1,000. There are upmarket lodges and hotels along the river, with special rates for Zambian citizens/residents starting at K2,000. Though known for adventure activities like bungee jumping and rafting, Livingstone offers activities for the more relaxed traveller. Visitors can enjoy a leisurely boat cruise on the Zambezi River, an informative Tipunzile Tour experience in Mosi O Tunya National Park, or a visit to the Livingstone Museum all of which are moderately priced activities. The National Art Gallery has amazing art by renowned Zambians for the discerning art enthusiast. A visit to one of several spas is an experience not to miss; treatments begin at K150. High tea by the river is a special treat from the Royal Livingstone Hotel or a cocktail on their deck is an excellent way to end the day. Prices begin at K500 including snack and drinks for most activities. Several restaurants offer traditional Zambian, Indian, Italian, Chinese and Western food, and prices begin at K25 at local takeaways, K60 for authentic Zambian food, and K120 for dinner at an international hotel chain. There are several options to travel to Livingstone; a bus from Lusaka starts at K170, self-drive with a salon car may cost K900 for a full tank; and the standard fare for a Lusaka-Livingstone return airline ticket begins at K7,500 though special rates may be available. Plan your trip, see you in Livingstone. Be ready to be amazed!! May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | SEASONS ON THE ZAMBEZI

Seasons

ON THE ZAMBEZI AT VICTORIA FALLS, LIVINGSTONE [ WRITER: Alison Orr ]

[ PHOTO: Chundukwa River Lodge / Safari Magazine ]

An account from Chundukwa River Lodge When you live on the Zambezi River, just 35km above Victoria Falls, much of life revolves around the river, the Falls, and their variations of ‘high and low water’. Here, seasons are categorised according to relevant characteristics of that period or time of year, rather than the traditional western four seasons of the year. And whilst you can split the year into several seasons, the most common are the Wet and Dry seasons, and Low and High water levels. Local communities are in tune with these shifts in climate and changes in their surroundings for various different reasons – planting, harvesting and storing crops, irrigation, hydro-electric power supplies, fishing, roof maintenance, and in some cases shifting homes and livestock from low to higher grounds – as the Lozi people in Barotseland do, before the annual floods. For us at Chundukwa we are focussed on the types of adventures that our guests can enjoy as the seasons change – always closely linked to the Victoria Falls. Also being a ‘River Lodge’ nestled on the banks of the magnificent Zambezi River, we observe the changes in the varying bird-and-wildlife seen at the water’s edge, the changing channels on the river, and the water lapping under our stilted river chalets. Along the course of its 2574km journey to the Indian Ocean, the Zambezi River flows from Zambia, through parts of Angola, back into Zambia, and along parts of Zambia’s borders with Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe, and finally into Mozambique where it reaches the Indian Ocean. The catchment area is vast, and the morphology of the river equally diverse – as wide as 25km in the Barotse Floodplains, a mile wide at the Victoria Falls, and in parts of the Batoka Gorge below, as narrow as a stone’s throw. Historically, the rainy season in this greater region and in much of the Zambezi’s catchment area is from November to mid-April, and the dry season from May until October. However, further along the Zambezi these seasons do not fall exactly in line with ‘high and low’ river levels.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

SEASONS ON THE ZAMBEZI | ZAMBIA

contrasted with the exquisite cool meandering waters of the Zambezi River. What can you do if you visit during the Low Water months? (August – December) Low water season offers visitors a variety of opportunities for some of the more unusual Falls and Zambezi experiences.

Victoria Falls - Where do we fit in? Almost midway between source and sea, Victoria Falls divides the Zambezi River into the upper and middle sections, with the lower being Cahora Bassa to the Indian Ocean. Although ‘the rains’ can start as early as November, here we only notice and feel the effects of the river levels rising, towards the end of December. The Zambezi continues to fill up as the rains continue, so that usually by the end of March Victoria Falls can be seen in all their fullness, and on the rise until early May, with local water levels normally peaking at this time. By April, the rain here generally clears up, and after the river’s peak, the Zambezi gradually starts dropping. The Falls remain abundant in June and early July whilst the river subsides, and by August certain channels and patches of flow start drying up, with much of the bare rock face of the Falls visible from September until the end of November, before the cycle starts again. This general pattern is observed annually, though there are fluctuations year on year,

affected by how early or late the rains arrive, how long they continue, and how much rain there is.

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View the rock wall and skeletal canyon of Victoria Falls – an early morning visit in the cooler hours, to enjoy the soft glow of sunrise reflecting on the rocks.

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Visit Livingstone Island and the associated Angel’s and Devil’s natural infinity pools on the edge of the Falls – an absolutely phenomenal way to experience the Falls, standing on top of them and emersing yourself in the Zambezi, right on the edge of the Falls.

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Best season for white-water rafting on the Zambezi – the amount of water passing through the Batoka Gorge is just right for incredible class V rapids to be navigated.

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A chance to stand below the Falls – only at very low water levels, it is possible to access this exquisite sanctuary, and experience the Falls from their base.

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See the Zambezi adorned with water birds, hippos and crocodiles. Sunset and sunrise cruises are just magical at this time, with fantastic wildlife sightings.

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Scenic flights over the Falls will give perspective as to their great width and the channels that the Zambezi forms, as well as the formation of Victoria Falls and the layout of Batoka Gorge.

What does Low Water mean for us? ‘Low Water’ means a minimal amount of water is flowing over the Falls, with the spray reduced and the vast basalt rock wall increasingly visible. Along the Zambezi leading up to the Falls, sandbanks and islands start emerging, rocks jut out, and the flow of water is moderate. Beautiful sandy beaches are adorned with water birds and crocodiles sunning themselves in the cooler part of the day. Rock pratincols, African skimmers, and knobbilled ducks also take up residence on the small islands, making it a birdwatcher’s paradise. Hippos move into the shallows, and lawns along the river’s edge become prime grazing areas for them. At the same time, well into the dry season, there is an abundance of wildlife along the water’s edge and coming down to the river to drink. The scorched land that we experience in October and early November is starkly

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | SEASONS ON THE ZAMBEZI set of rapids as they change their nature of flow, also usually available until end of March, with just too much water passing over the Falls in April and May to allow for visits to Livingstone island and/or rafting trips. • From March - May, the abundance of water plummeting over Victoria Falls makes for a real soiree for the senses - feeling the force of the water, hearing the thunder of the Falls, and being drenched in the spray. In certain viewing areas this does not allow you to see too far ahead! • Why not wander across the historic railway bridge from Zambia to Zimbabwe, to view the Falls from other angles and access points? Cliché to say we love it all? But there are certain things about each part of this annual cycle that appeal, and which largely comes with the assurance that the cycle will repeat itself – and those of us living here get to experience it all, without having only a couple of days to do so. And whilst Victoria Falls are the draw-card for many visiting Livingstone, there’s enough to do in the region to keep anyone occupied for several days. 5 UNIQUE WAYS TO ENJOY VICTORIA FALLS DURING YOUR VISIT TO LIVINGSTONE What does High Water mean for us? By December we’ve usually have had our first rains, and the river slowly begins to rise. The wilderness turns lush green with a spring flush. In Zambia we call this the ‘Emerald Season’ as it is an equally fulfilling time to go on Safari and a perfect opportunity to include a visit to Victoria Falls. The expanding river, colourintense sunsets, and cooler temperatures offset by the occasional afternoon thunderstorm, make this a very comfortable time to visit the region. By mid-January clouds of spray once more hover above Victoria Falls. In March, April and May, there is so much water falling over Victoria Falls that you really experience the Falls rather than simply ‘viewing’ them. The Zambezi widens as it breaks its banks and millions of litres of water rush past you in perfect silence – often carrying lots of organic debris and even whole reed or papyrus islands that have broken off in the flood plains. Sand banks close in and are replaced with a sea of water as the river swells over its banks filling every dry tributary and waterway on its course to the Indian Ocean. What you can do if you visit the Falls during the High Water months? (mid-January to mid-July) A visit during ‘high water’ season is a perfect time for some of the more well-known Falls and Zambezi experiences.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

• Walks above the falls following the meandering footpaths will take you through glittering water-drenched rainforests, with views along the eastern cataract and also upriver alongside the falling water. Zambia’s infamous Knife Edge Bridge connects two buttresses and offers the unique 360° rainbow only seen when the sun hits a perfect angle. • Hike down the gorge to watch the full extent of the Zambezi waters churning through a thin gully at what is known as the ‘boiling pot’, and look up at the cliffs towering above. • Get soaked - by February Victoria Falls are sufficiently full again to guarantee a thorough soaking from their spray. • Helicopter and microlight flights over the Falls allow you to admire the spray and magnitude of water flowing. • The lunar rainbow at Full Moon is a true wonder to experience. Walk the forest pathways at night with the thundering sound of water cascading and the gentle shimmer of a rainbow lit up by the full moon. • As the Devil’s Pool becomes submerged, visits to Livingstone Island offer a swim in the Angel’s Armchair instead, also on the edge of the falls, equally thrilling and usually possible until more or less the end of March. • White-water rafting focuses on a different

• • • • •

A walk to the Boiling Pot (all seasons) Crossing the knife-edge bridge (all seasons) Microlight Flight above the Falls (all seasons) A visit to Livingstone Island (June – March) Exploring Under the Falls (low water)

Seasons in a nutshell

High Water – mid-January until mid-July Very full Falls, a large cloud above the Falls, a guaranteed soaking when viewing the Falls, a fast flowing and wide river to experience. Low Water – August until December Dryer Falls, allowing for access to the breathtaking spots under and on top of the Falls, interesting channels and sandbanks in the upper river. Wet Season – November/ December until March, and sometimes early April Summer time, with warm temperatures, moody skies and beautiful sunsets, a lush green landscape, showers and thunderstorms. A beautiful time to be in the area. Dry Season – April/ May until November Winter through to Summer. Clear skies, no rain, an increasingly dryer landscape – a great time for safaris. Cool temperatures and misty mornings at the onset of the dry season, with the earth warming up increasingly from the middle of August, until the rains arrive towards the end of November. Smokey sunsets from the dust in the air.

LOVING LUSAKA | ZAMBIA

LOVING LUSAKA Extra Time is Worth the Dime

[ WRITER: Brooke Berlin ]

[ PHOTO: Johann Vanzyl ]

It’s perplexing to me, those who go to Paris for art, Sydney for opera, Tokyo for tastes, but avoid African cities. Is it out of fear, or maybe just a lack of understanding about how contemporary and culturally rich they are? Being from New York, I have a lovehate relationship with “Sex in the City”, but being African at heart, I have a love-love affinity for “An African City” and all things urban. This is why I go out of my way to stay and play in cities across the continent. In the time of travel where pre-departure Covid testing is often required, it’s great to know that there are many metropolises where you can get a test and then have a wonderful time while waiting for the results.

Brooke Berlin

Founder of Karoo Consulting, a company focused on promoting travel to Africa and supporting conservation and community nonprofit organisations, Brooke has been exploring the continent for 15 years and has been to 19 of Africa’s 54 countries. She studied journalism and cultural anthropology and her passion and skills combine to bring awareness to the diversity and uniqueness of Africa. Her favourite activities include: participating in a rhino notching and elephant rescue; boating and flying; enjoying designer outfits from Johannesburg, Lusaka and Accra; and visiting tribes in the Omo Valley, Nubian Desert and West Africa. www.karooconsulting.com

In Dakar, I’ve listened to Baaba Maal live closing out a film festival; in Johannesburg, I’ve watched a matinee of “Sophiatown” that would rival any on Broadway; in Nairobi I’ve discussed politics with artist Michael Soi in his studio; and in too many places to mention I have commissioned couture clothing, and Lusaka is one of those cities! Lusaka is my most beloved, approachable African city: there isn’t a lot of traffic; the majority of attractions are closely situated, especially to my favourite hotel, Latitude15; and the Zambian people are exceptionally warm, welcoming and wonderful.

(plus it’s right next to the best butcher in town for biltong and droëwors), Cantina for a Mexican dinner, and the mid-day café breaks at 37D, The Lechwe Trust, and The Lusaka Collective. When we didn’t want to go anywhere, the various al fresco areas at Latitude15 provided the perfect oasis paired with a menu serving up mouth-watering fare. The only thing I didn’t get to taste was some traditionally prepared street food just outside The Lusaka Collective, where they can set up a meal for those wanting to experience the truly authentic.

On my last trip in September 2020, I stayed longer in Lusaka – seven nights total split between arrival and departure. My husband, Johann Vanzyl, and I ate out (literally outside) several times. We enjoyed the casual atmosphere of Zambean for a healthy lunch

As a connoisseur of craft and virtuosity alike, I love that Lusaka provides both. The Lusaka Collective is the perfect place to peruse countless items made from across the country. It is a hub for beautiful souvenirs or gifts, with an outdoor area for a spot of tea with WiFi May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | LOVING LUSAKA if you would like to spend some extra time, which I would as the team is a delight to be around. They carry many of my favoured items from places like Mulberry Mongoose in Mfuwe, WayaWaya in Livingstone and others. On this trip I brought back handmade Azimai soaps, Bee-Utiful beeswax wraps and reusable food bags and a limited-edition print. For high art, 37d Gallery shows 20-25 internationally renowned Zambian or Zambia-connected artists. This is where I first saw and fell in love with Stary Mwaba, though equally impressive to me were Natasha Evans and Mwamba Mulangala. You just might be fortunate enough to be in Lusaka for an opening and there are several other spaces for performance art as well. For a museum quality experience, The Lechwe Trust Art Gallery has an impressive private collection as they purchase or commission pieces to support Zambian artists and a foundation to help further their education and other visual arts organisations throughout the country. Here I discovered

Angela Ninda, Elisha Alex Zulu, Patrick Mumba and others. For fashion, I follow a number of Instagram handles that promote designers across the continent. That’s how I “discovered” Bfyne swimsuits by Nigerian-American designer Buki Ade; Sarah Diouf, the designer behind Tongoro, who has dressed Beyoncé; and Mangishi Doll, the Lusaka-based fashion house of Kapasa Musonda, who is a member of Africa’s Forbes 30 under 30 List, and told me when i showed her the dress i desperately wanted that it sold out after Angela Bassett wore it on a red carpet. Go figure! But custom fittings are definitely not just for the dames! Johann has had a fierce jacket made by Rama Diaw’s team in Saint Louis and shirts by Zanele Lawana and her company, Black Bottom Couture, in Johannesburg. It’s just another reason to bookend any safari in Zambia with nights in Lusaka. Upon arrival, visit a designer to chat about their designs and have a fitting

“

The Lechwe Trust Art Gallery has an impressive private collection as they purchase or commission pieces to support Zambian artists and a foundation to help further their education as well as other visual arts organizations throughout the country.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

”

done; by the time you return, your tailored threads will be ready and waiting, even if walking down the jet bridge isn’t exactly same as walking down the red carpet. While I’m not good on a manicured green and instead prefer the wild, varied colors of the wilderness, there are also two golf clubs that rent clubs for people wanting to play a round, both of which have nice restaurants, and the newest one, the Bonanza Golf Club, has opened a Hotel onsite, which is the closest to the airport for anyone wanting to just stay put and putt. It’s not all about shopping and spending, though I do like to encourage both when travelling. One of my most memorable moments in Lusaka was visiting the Lilayi Elephant Nursery. We drove out for the mid-day visit, about 45-minutes away from Latitude15; for those who want a more intimate behind-the-scenes experience where you can help make the milk formula and

LOVING LUSAKA | ZAMBIA more, plan to spend a night at the Lilayi Lodge. Either way, make this a priority as you’ll be supporting a truly impactful conservation project. This is where most of the crew stayed when filming “Holiday in the Wild” with Kristin Davis and Rob Lowe as the Lilayi Elephant Nursery was featured in the flick. When the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary in Kenya was getting set up, they worked with the Game Rangers International team at Lilayi to learn from their expertise and get a head start on success. The team here is doing incredible rescue, rehabilitation, research, and release work on elephants who have been harmed due mostly to humanwildlife conflict. They take a different approach however to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Kenya, and are going about a long-term study to see if it is better to release elephants who have had as little interaction with humans as possible, so visitors here don’t feed or touch, but get a wonderful presentation while in the viewing platform where they can spend a few hours watching the herd from above as they get their lunch and play about. So stay longer and enjoy. I worked from Lusaka (Zoom meetings took place from the WeWork-like offices at Latitude15) in between my daily outings. Seek out a reputable industry insider who knows what’s happening and can get you access to the well-kept secrets. Because Johann works with Nick Aslin and Zambian Ground Handlers, a lot of my doors were opened because of them. When Nick knew that I was interested in art, he mentioned that his wife Carol Aslin is an artist, and being tapped into the community in Lusaka, my Zambian art knowledge was established because of her. And Nosizi Mwase, who works on Nick’s team, has modeled for Mangishi Doll, which is how I got my first private fitting. Let those who live in Lusaka, or specialize in Zambia, help tailor the perfect experience to fit your urban interests.

[ Brooke Berlin with Kapasa Musonda, Founder and Designer of Mangishi Doll ]

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | INTERVIEW

Interview with

LESLIE NEVISON [ WRITER: Andrew Muswala ]

[ PHOTOS: Mama Tembo Tours, Kaingu Lodge] Leslie Nevison, Director of Mama Tembo Tours Zambia LTD chats to us about her career trajectory and experiences. Give us your perspective on your upbringing? I am Canadian-born and Ireland-raised. When we were in our late twenties, my husband and I spent 16 months backpacking around the world, an experience which forever changed our lives’ trajectories. We decided to work internationally. We have now lived in 13 countries in 31 years, of which seven countries have been in Africa. Global citizens who are “movious” (as the Zambians say) have a hard time calling anywhere home. Fortunately, we found Zambia. Where did your love for the tourism industry come from? It was a logical progression over time from traveller to tour operator, a process which also included guidebook and travel writing for magazines and newspapers. The knowledge of passionate, experienced travellers who work in tourism industries is invaluable. When did you come to Africa? My first safari was in East Africa in 1992. We were living in the Sultanate of Oman. We wrote letters to operators based in Nairobi to

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arrange the safari. It took months to receive their replies. We still have those aerogrammes! It is a familiar story. We were immediately hooked on African wildlife and culture and we knew we would return. That opportunity came in 2000 when we moved to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. How often did you visit Zambia after your first trip? My husband’s work brought us to Lusaka in 2008. In late 2010, we moved to Central and Western Africa for an extended period, but we never really left Zambia in spirit. I already knew that I had found a home for MTT. Tell us about Mama Tembo Tours? The story starts in Tanzania. Mama Tembo (which means Mother Elephant in Kiswahili) was the name of the ancient Toyota in which I travelled around Tanzania for three years. I purchased it from a Zimbabwean miner. How I loved that vehicle! When I decided to start the tour operation in 2005, it seemed fitting to choose the old vehicle’s handle for a femaleoperated business. The first MTT was based in Canada and focused only on Tanzania. In 2011, I formed MTT Zambia LTD in Lusaka. In 2014, I merged MTT Canada with MTT Zambia. They became MTT Safaris. Today, Lusaka-based MTT works in 13 African countries which is why it

INTERVIEW | ZAMBIA is called the East, West, Central and Southern African safari specialist. What type of trips were you organising in the early days? From the beginning, MTT has always addressed each client’s needs. There is no safari which is too short, or too long, or too difficult. Undeniably, however, a safari undertaken 20 plus years ago was far more challenging. It is difficult to replicate those old safaris. “Off the beaten path” does not mean what it used to. The safari industry has kept up with the times and changing market demands - as it should although balancing large tourism industries and conservation is not always a perfect pairing. Do you deal with clients looking for luxury on safari? MTT is most compatible with mid-range and luxury budgets. Luxury is a subjective concept. It is vital to understand how the client defines it. The standard industry definition of luxury is superior accommodation, exceptional services, and exclusivity of the experience. I would add authenticity and privilege as luxuries in travel. The most rewarding wildlife or cultural experiences often requires the acceptance of far simpler accommodations and far greater costs than a week in a five-star resort. Luxury is the privilege of being there. What has been your career highlight? In 2014, MTT’s Western lowland gorilla safari to Nouabale-Ndoki National Park in the Republic of Congo and Dzanga-Ndoki National Park in Central African Republic won National Geographic Traveler 50 Tours of a Lifetime Award. Drawing from your experience, what would be your advice to someone who wants to do a road trip in Zambia and Zimbabwe? I was fortunate to live in Harare for two years. Zambia’s and Zimbabwe’s different cultures and landscapes complement rather than compete with one another. My advice is to allow enough time; have cross border permits and visas in order; carry two spare tires and at least three jerry cans for emergency fuel; and expect to talk with some traffic police in both Zambia and Zimbabwe! Zambia’s geography lends itself to separate explorations of its North, South, East, and West. It’s easier to drive around Zimbabwe on a circular route, beginning at Victoria Falls and finishing at Chirundu. When I needed to get away from Harare, my go-to place was Zimbabwe’s Savé Valley Conservancy, which supports one of Africa’s most important African wild dog populations. My go-to place from Lusaka is the easily accessible Lower Zambezi National Park. Any fond memories you would love to share with us? My husband of 38 years is my best friend and travelling companion. I am relying on him to remember our funniest stories from a lifetime of travel. May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | KARIBA TOWN

KARIBA TOWN What ’s On Offer [ WRITER: Sally Wynn ]

[ PHOTOS: Wild Zambezi, Zimparks, African Sun Hotels, Executive Air, Zambezi River Authority,

]

Baobab Bookings.

Most people who visit the little lakeside town of Kariba - sprawled across a line of steep hills flanking the “Kariwa” gorge from where it gets its name - are stopping only briefly to board a boat and set off onto the vast inland sea of Lake Kariba for a few days of fishing or fun relaxation. The lake has long been popular with local and regional holidaymakers who hire a fully staffed, self-catering houseboat for a few days and set off from one of the town’s four main harbours. Increasingly, international visitors, too, can enjoy a luxury cruise or set off across the lake on a speedboat transfer to a safari lodge in the vicinity of the Matusadona National Park. The people who stay longer in Kariba Town itself are usually attending a conference or a wedding at a resort venue, or taking time out to enjoy a tranquil weekend of fishing, gameviewing, birding, or simply relaxing in the little wildlife town which has an attractive, laidback, tropical, Mediterranean-type atmosphere. So what’s on offer in Kariba town itself?

KARIBA TOWN: WHERE TO STAY? Kariba offers holidaymakers a variety of choices to suit different pockets, including a large hotel/resort, several lodges, various holiday homes, cottages, self-catering facilities and campsites dotted among the hills, bays and shorelines of the town from where the views of the lake are stunning. Caribbea Bay Resort (run by African Sun Hotels) – is Kariba’s largest hotel and a popular

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venue for conferences and large weddings. Situated on the shores of the lake, with lovely views, the resort is designed Sardinian-style with 83 bedrooms and can cater for up to 150 conference delegates or wedding guests. Facilities are child-friendly, with baby-sitting facilities, a childrens’ playground and pool and the nearby Supa-Tube adventure water slide. Kariba Safari Lodge (run by Zambezi Cruise & Safaris) - is set into 33 acres of woodland hillside above Kariba Town, with nine luxury Lodges and eight Suites distributed on various levels down the steep slope to the lake shore and beach area. The main openplan lounge, restaurant, outdoor patio and bar area is built on an elevated deck with awe-inspiring panoramic views of Lake Kariba.

There is a swimming pool and casual bar with a communal boma area, free Wi-Fi and a separate conference and wedding venue. Crowned Eagle Boutique Hotel (run by Zambezi Cruise & Safaris) - is a 13-room colonial-style facility situated on the hilltop of Mica Point. It shares amenities with the nearby Kariba Safari Lodge. Its open-plan lounge /dining /bar/ pool area is set in tropical gardens with stunning views over Lake Kariba. It will be opening soon. Hornbill Lodge – is an intimate, personalised, owner-managed lodge set atop a hill in Kariba town with stunning views over the lake. Catering on a full-board basis for up to 12 guests in A-frame thatched chalet en-suite

KARIBA TOWN | ZIMBABWE

bedrooms, with a central living area/dining room/bar/TV lounge and splash pool set in lush tropical gardens, this place is a little treasure for small groups. Kariba Self-catering options – there are a number of private cottages, chalets and houses in Kariba town and in nearby Charara (Wild Heritage/Nzou/Cerruti Lodges) which are available for short-term holiday lets, usually on a self-catering basis. Many of them have staff available to assist with cooking and household chores. For more information and bookings, contact the following agents who are specialists for Kariba self-catering options:Baobab Bookings Heartveld Adventures Wild Dog Tours The two self-catering options below also have camping facilities:Lomagundi Lakeside Association chalets & camping 2-bedroom self-catering chalets, camping, swimming pool and The Dome Restaurant, set in shady, lawned gardens on the shores of Lake Kariba. ZimParks Nyanyana Lodge & camping 6-bed self-catering lodge and campsite set within the lakeside Recreational Park a few kilometres outside Kariba Town. May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | KARIBA TOWN

KARIBA TOWN - WHAT TO DO? 1. Kariba Dam Wall: A must-do activity for everyone visiting Kariba is to see the Kariba Dam Wall. Guided tours are available from some of the larger accommodation facilities in Kariba. However, if you are an independent traveller, you can view the wall from the Kariba Dam Wall Observation Point or, if you have more time, obtain a Visitor Pass from the Zimbabwe Customs and Immigration post (you will need to leave your ID or Passport with them). This allows you to drive your vehicle down to a designated parking spot and access the dam wall itself on foot. This is well worth the effort, as it gives you a real idea of the enormous scale of this extraordinary engineering feat completed in the late 1950s, and you get to see the awesome view downstream into the Kariba Gorge - where construction work for the Kariba Dam Rehabilitation Project is currently ongoing. 2. Kariba Heights: Take a drive (or a long hard walk) up to the top of the highest hill above the town of Kariba, where there is an awesome view out over the 35km-wide expanse of Lake Kariba with (on a clear day), the mountains of the Matusadona National Park visible on other side. Visit the craft market and the monument in memory of “Operation Noah” when Rupert Fothergill and his teams of rangers rescued hundreds of wild animals from the rising waters as Lake

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Kariba filled for the first time in the 1960s upstream of the newly completed dam wall. 3. Chapel of Santa Barbara: this beautiful little circular Catholic church, constructed by the Italian engineers who built Kariba dam, is dedicated to the memory of employees who lost their lives while working on the wall. Situated near Kariba Heights, it has beautiful stained glass windows and a bell tower and is well worth a visit. Ask for the friendly caretaker who will let you in if the gate is locked. 4. Craft markets: The people of Kariba have wonderful hand-made crafts for sale at various places in the town. You can find them at Kariba Heights, at the Dam Wall Observation Point and at the AMC Garage turn-off to Marineland Harbour. 5. Boating, fishing, sailing & sunset cruises: There are a variety of lake-based activities that are accessible from Kariba Town, including boat cruises, sunset cruises and guided fishing trips to catch Tigerfish or Bream. Some Zimbabwean visitors have their own boats, but fishing or pleasure boats with an experienced skipper are also available for hire at Marineland Harbour. There are also sailing boats for hire. Book through your accommodation facility or any of the selfcatering Kariba specialist agents mentioned above. 6. Game-viewing, drives, guided walks, canoeing: Kariba is well-known for being

KARIBA TOWN | ZIMBABWE

located within a wildlife-rich area. Elephants, zebra, baboons and other animals are often to be seen wandering through the town. Self-drivers can enjoy wildlife viewing along the lakeshore in the Kariba Recreational Park (entry via Nyanyana Gate). Tour operators, including Natureways Safaris offer guided game drives, game walks, canoeing and day trips can be booked through your accommodation facility or any of the self-catering Kariba specialist agents mentioned above. 7. Cultural/village tours: these can be arranged through your accommodation facility or agent. 8. Fun for the kids: The best fun for kids in Kariba Town is to be had at the “Supa Tube” Water Slide and Pool just next to Caribbea Bay Resort. This will keep them happy for hours, in a safe environment, although it is advisable for parents to be present. Children also love fishing, especially when the fish are easy to catch. For a small fee, they can catch delicious edible bream from the Kariba Bream Farm near Chawara Harbour which allows fishing straight out of their fish ponds, and can also hire you rods, fishing tackle and bait. Wherever you stay, or whatever you do, a few days away in Kariba Town will be a VERY welcome break for the whole family. We can highly recommend it! If you’d like more information about what to do in Kariba Town (or anywhere in along the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe), the Wild Zambezi travel information website provides searchable listings for travel opportunities in the area. Visit: www.wildzambezi.com May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | NOTTINGHAM ESTATE RESORTS

NOTTINGHAM ESTATE RESORTS… A Unique Experience [ WRITER: Angela Mason ] [ PHOTO: Nottingham Estate Resorts ]

Nottingham Estate, a privately owned farm located on the banks of the mighty Limpopo River (close to Beitbridge town) produces quality citrus for export, local sales and juicing. Nottingham Estate Resorts focuses on Eco-Tourism as Beitbridge is not only the border between Zimbabwe and South Africa, it is also a diverse wildlife area rich in archaeological and paleontological history. Both ventures contribute to community welfare through employment (permanent and seasonal); levy contribution to Zimbabwe Tourism Authority, a body vital to promoting tourism…and to the well-being of Elephants and other wildlife who in turn provide Nottingham Estate Resorts a unique experience to offer local and international guests during the months of May to September…’Fly Camp’ Season.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

NOTTINGHAM ESTATE RESORTS | ZIMBABWE

Fly Camp is a spectacular natural rocky amphitheatre where Elephant, Baboon, Warthog, Eland, Kudu and Impala feast on citrus deemed unfit for human consumption, and orange pulp collected from a nearby juicing plant. Nothing goes to waste! Guests safely enjoy the unique, and endearing feeding experience from an auditorium set high above the stage, a part of this natural rocky amphitheatre. Elephant ‘rumbling’, and occasional trumpeting echo off the rocks striking into the hearts of the audience. Audible sounds of ‘silent’ feasting African Giants below reaches guests above. Entertaining Baboon antics add to the experience. Beautiful sunsets, a jagged rocky landscape, and distant Hyena calls in the early evening enhance the ambiance. Yellow lighting illuminates the feeding area at night, and is comforting for all. Fantastic photo opportunities! Guests are accommodated at either Kuduland situated on the banks of the Limpopo River, or Fishing Camp situated on the banks of the Mutshiloshokwe Dam. Each camp has its own unique atmosphere. Kuduland is rustic, but comfortable, and offers that ‘safari’ feel with the layout, and rondavel type chalets. Lush green lawns sweep down the river bank and complete the gardens. Shade provided by the numerous Fever and Nyala trees is welcomed. The flow of the Limpopo River is seasonal; each season contributing a beauty of its own. The sound of flowing water is soothing, and the dry river bed with a few pools of water are home to Crocodiles. Birdlife completes the setting. Sparkling swimming pools overlooking the river are enjoyed by guests. Fishing Camp is modern in comparison. Waterfront chalets overlook the dam used by guests fishing for Bass or Bream; or simply just a Boat Cruise. Birdlife, Crocodile, Hippo, Elephant and other wildlife around the dam offer great photo opportunities. Gardens and numerous trees complement the camp surroundings. A swimming pool at the main dining/lounge/bar and entertainment area is welcome on a hot day. Guests wake to a beautiful sunrise over the dam, and end the day with an equally beautiful sunset. The shaded lawns in front of chalets offer a relaxed, and peaceful environment. Nottingham Estate Resorts has had the pleasure of accommodating participants in the well-known annual TOUR DE TULI Mapungubwe charity event that attracts cyclists from all around the world. Activities available to guests are Fly Camp visits, Bush Drives (Bushmen Painting sites, wildlife, rock formations, water pans), Boat Cruises, Sentinel Ranch Fossil Visits and Fishing. www.nottinghamestate.co.za

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | HWANGE NATIONAL PARK

The Grey Crowned Cranes of

HWANGE NATIONAL PARK [ WRITER: Sean Hind (Safaris I Can See) ]

[ PHOTO: Sean Hind ]

Elegant, tall and almost regal in their gait, the Grey Crowned-crane (Balearica regulorum) lives up to its name in appearance with the golden ‘crown’ of feathers standing stiffly around its head. Listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, the Grey Crowned Crane has been facing increased threats such as habitat loss and degradation, disturbance from livestock and people during their breeding season, and the illegal removal of birds and eggs from the wild.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

HWANGE NATIONAL PARK | ZIMBABWE Over the period 2018 – 2019, led by Birdlife Zimbabwe and implemented with additional support from the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA), non-governmental institutions and local community groups as well as the African Crane Conservation Programme, which is responsible for coordinating the implementation of the AEWA International Single Species Action Plan (ISSAP) for the Grey Crowned-crane, a project was carried out to verify specific threats to the species in the country, as well as determine their presence and geographical distribution in key known wetlands and other sites with potential to host the species. The project included Hwange National Park as one of the country’s strongest populations of Grey Crowned cranes.

legs dangling, whilst preening one another’s necks – behaviour which is said to strengthen their bond. Extremely territorial during the breeding season, which usually takes place during the rainy months (December through to April), they move away from the flock and build nests along the edges of wetlands, where they can lay up to four eggs at a time. In some Southern African cultures it is believed that the Grey Crowned Crane is responsible for calling on the rains.

As fascinating in their behaviour as they are in their beauty, Grey Crowned Cranes are monogamous and once they meet their mate, they dance together in their courtship, a mesmerizing “waltz” which includes bobbing their heads and leaping into the air up to an estimated 3 meters, with wings spread and

In flight, the Grey Crowned Crane resembles a large parachute, its impressive wings spread wide with slow downward strokes and quick upward strokes. Before taking flight, the cranes need to do a run-up to gain some speed and momentum. Their booming call echoing across the wetlands, which involves inflation

The chicks leave the nest within hours of hatching, staying in a 100m vicinity of the nest for about two weeks. They generally learn to fly when they are between 56 – 100 days old, and only become independent after an estimated 120 days.

of the red gular sac around their throats, can make them easy to distinguish even before getting visual of them. The grey crowned crane spends most of its day foraging for food and stamping their feet to find it. Their omnivorous diet includes grass tips, seeds, and grains. As well as small vertebrates and insects, snakes, worms, aquatic animals’ eggs, small fish and invertebrates. The cranes stamp their feet while walking to coax insects out of their grassy hiding places. Given that seeds make up a portion of grey crowned crane diets, they are important seed dispersers for the ecosystem. Seeing these iconic grey crowned cranes in the wild is becoming increasingly rare and as their population numbers dwindle, the opportunity to spot these beautiful birds does too. Thankfully Hwange National Park continues to maintain a healthy population, and the rainy season in particular is one of the prime times to enjoy watching these majestic and elegant birds.

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

SNAKE SAFETY | ZIMBABWE

Helping Hands

IN SNAKE SAFETY [ WRITER: Marcel van Driel ]

[ PHOTO: Mike Perry ] This is a first in, hopefully, a long series of articles about anything to do with snakes and snake safety in Zambia and Zimbabwe. Helping Hands in Snake Safety (HHiSS) is a snake awareness NGO, established in 2020 in Zambia. Our goal is to keep both snakes and people safe and that is quite a task! The general attitude in Zambia and Zimbabwe is to kill any snake on sight. But apart from that action being illegal, it also puts the one killing the snake in potential harms way. Snakes are not aggressive creatures. They want to be left alone and do what they do: eat and mate. There is no hidden agenda. Unfortunately, a lot of people in our countries think there is a firm belief that snakes are out to get us. “Kill it before it kills you”. The reality is that none of them do, they only bite out of self-defence. This is best explained by considering how they function. First of all, snakes can’t bite off pieces of prey. They swallow their prey whole, and humans are too large to swallow for any snake in Africa including the Southern African Python. We are not in any way on a snake’s menu! Another factor is that snakes can’t regulate

their body temperatures; they are cold-blooded animals. This means that for any snake to be able to be active, it needs to bask in the sun or lie on any warm surface. Energy is a very precious commodity, so why would they want to waste that energy on something they can’t eat? The simple reality is that snakes only bite us when they feel threatened. But there is another, maybe more compelling reason not to harm snakes. Snakes fulfil a crucial role in pest control. The absence of snakes would mean an increase of pests that eat our crops and damage our property. Without snakes we would have no food left, apart from what we can forage in the wild. And we have long since forgotten to truly survive on what nature provides us. In subsequent issues of Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine, we will provide you with more information about snakes and snakebite (treatment). In the September 2021 issue we will start by providing you with an overview of the snake species, both harmful and harmless that can be found in Zambia. Helping Hands in Snake Safety www.hhiss.com

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | CONSERVATION

COLLABORATIVE CONSERVATION EFFORTS STEPPED UP IN VICTORIA FALLS

We are VICTORIA

FALLS

[ WRITER: Shelley Cox – We are Victoria Falls ] [ PHOTO: Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, Wild Horizons, Bhejane Trust ]

Conservation efforts around the world have traditionally suffered from sectional and isolated approaches, whether it be at an organizational level, from a funding perspective or by focusing on a specific species. Whilst the COVID-19 pandemic has seen so many on a global level insulate to ensure survival, the Victoria Falls community instead have been unique in their approach, and have united, and stepped up their efforts to support collective action and collaboration for conservation in and around the region. The collaboration has helped mobilise a variety of skills and resources focusing on a coordinated approach to impact on multiple levels to ensure the biodiversity of the region is maintained and conserved not only in readiness for the return of tourism, but for the future generations of Zimbabweans. Anti-Poaching Efforts Together with the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit (VFAPU), the Wild Horizons Anti-Poaching Unit and Zambezi Horse Safaris have increased their patrols whether in vehicles, on foot or on horseback. To date these organisations working collaboratively have covered more than 2,404 patrols in the last year, amounting to an estimated 36,300 kilometers, and through these patrols have recovered an estimated 1,858 snares.

In addition, tourism stakeholders and members of the guiding fraternity who have been without work due to the pandemic, have TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

also stepped up and have been assisting with manpower and logistical support throughout the COVID-19 pandemic. Rescue and Rehabilitation Working with the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, VFAPU Zambezi Horse Safaris, and the Wild Horizons Anti-Poaching Unit, the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust have responded to endless reports of injured, snared or compromised wildlife and have during the last year rescued an estimated 50 different animals and birds, treating or rehabilitating them and returning them back to their natural environment where possible. Just one example of the many incredible collaborative successes was in November 2020, when two buffalo bulls, decided to take up residence in Victoria Falls town in CHOGM Park next to Cresta Sprayview Hotel. Together with the National Parks teams, stakeholders gathered to come up with a strategic rescue and relocation operation.

CONSERVATION | ZIMBABWE Alison Baker from Zambezi Horse Safaris was called in with her horses; the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust was ready to administer the drugs to allow for relocation, Parks and VFAPU scouts as well as Professional Guides were present to ensure spatial distancing of passer-bys and ensure no one was injured in the process, and a truck capable of lifting and carrying two Buffalo was required where fortunately Mr. Tinashe Manyau of Auto Towing stepped forward to assist and kindly provided a truck and crane at no cost for the operation. Using the horses as cover the team approached to within 15 meters of the Buffalo and both darts went in on target within seconds of each other. Several minutes later both animals were drugged and were being dragged on a conveyor belt sled pulled behind a land cruiser towards the truck parked on the main road. They were lifted onto the truck with the crane and lightly strapped down. The buffalo bulls were moved 25 kilometers down the Kazungula road into the middle of the Zambezi National Park where they were slowly lowered to the ground using the crane, the reversal drug was administered, and they both safely returned back into the National Park away from town. Reforestation One of the goals of the United Nations Strategic Plan for Forests 2030 includes “reversing the loss of forest cover worldwide through sustainable forest management, including protection, restoration, afforestation and reforestation, and increased efforts to prevent forest degradation and contribute to the global effort of addressing climate change.” Throughout the COVID pandemic, stakeholders such as Treeco, Greenline Africa Trust and Wild Horizons have been working alongside the Forestry Commission on indigenous tree-planting initiatives to rehabilitate areas that have been impacted by land clearing, uncontrolled harvesting of firewood, and wood for carving. With indigenous trees planted from seed in nurseries in and around Victoria Falls, the seedlings once well enough established are then transplanted into areas in need of rehabilitation. These reforestation efforts will have multiple long-term benefits to the destination, including and not limited to, preventing soil erosion and preserving the fertility of the soil, maintaining and reviving watersheds which also reduces climate change and global warming, supporting biodiversity of flora and fauna, and improvement of the air quality as a whole within the region. Water for Wildlife and for Communities A number of stakeholders in and around Victoria Falls have continued to work on projects focused on installing solar water pumps and boreholes to provide more sustainable, clean and reliable water sources for both wildlife and the bordering communities in and around Victoria Falls.

Jafuta Foundation have been running a successful ‘water for sanitation’ project whereby a number of boreholes and toilet facilities are being developed in several of the rural communities on the outskirts of Victoria Falls. To date, seven community boreholes have been drilled and equipped over the past year to provide clean water to these communities. Access to clean water is a key component of community empowerment and health, and these boreholes also assist the community with maintaining their nutritional vegetable gardens. Whilst the region has had an incredible rainy season, it is vital to prepare for the upcoming dry season. In 2011, Bhejane Trust extended their operations working with Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority from Hwange to the Zambezi National Park. Over the past 10 years the Bhejane Trust has been instrumental in reviving the Chamabonda Vlei section of the Park, resuscitating old boreholes, drilling new ones and installing solar pump units to restore the pans and ensure adequate water for wildlife throughout the year. During the course of the last year, several of the solar units and pumps have been stolen or vandalized and as such Bhejane Trust with the support of stakeholders has continued to work tirelessly to replace the stolen solar units and pump and conduct maintenance across the Chamabonda Vlei to ensure water for wildlife as the dry season starts to take shape. Food and Nutritional Support Following the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, and the decline of tourism and revenue to the region, a variety of stakeholders including Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, Bhejane Trust and Wild Horizons stepped up their support for the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority to ensure the well-being of the Parks Rangers and their families, providing them with monthly food packs to ensure their nutritional well-being and provide a morale boost for struggling wildlife custodians who are on the frontlines daily, protecting the wildlife in the region. The above efforts are just a highlight of the continued initiatives taking place on the ground to ensure Victoria Falls and the surrounding areas are adequately conserved during the COVID-19 pandemic, ensuring a healthy ecosystem, and that these efforts alongside others continue to push Victoria Falls forward as an attractive and “Sustainable Green Destination” for travellers in the future. In a post-COVID world, the future of conservation and the key to its success - is collaboration. Collaboration that extends to businesses both public and private sector, local communities and visiting communities – such that it is not separate from, but part of our DNA as a global community. If there is one thing we can hope for in a post-COVID world, it is that we as humans and global citizens have learnt from this devastating pandemic to think and act differently for the well-being of our natural world, and the biodiversity of our wild open spaces. May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

SOUTH AFRICA | WINES

Getting

BEHIND THE LABEL [ WRITER: Homer ]

[ PHOTO: Freepix.com ]

Greetings fellow aficionados of wine. In the previous article we walked through the history, basics of grape varieties and wine styles. Our journey now takes us to understanding what we are actually buying when we walk down our wine aisle. It can be quite a daunting task to the novice to differentiate between a seemingly endless selection, when facing shelves of wines with jargon on the bottles. All we want is a decent bottle and rush to that dinner party or occasion without the time to wonder or ask a usually equally baffled shop attendant. We look at what is behind the understanding of the ‘label’ and not become a ‘wine snob’, that very individual the late Raymond Postgate author of Plain man’s Guide to Wine described as they ‘who uses a knowledge of wine, often imperfect, to impress with a sense of their superiority.’ Two skilled league of people come to mind when we seek an authority on wines, one being the Enologist the other a Sommelier something we cannot all become for the sake of buying our favorite wine or explore a new varietal. Selecting a wine is more complex than choosing any other beverage as it goes beyond just drinking, with wine boasting so many uses, including the cooking. Will it be for that special celebration, something on a hot summer day - which we can relate to in these parts - or is it for that special meal we have cooked or simply easy drinking. Now that you have an understanding of red and white varietals, what we read off the label

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

helps make that choice simpler and allows a certain degree of mastery to choose the appropriate bottle. When reading wine labels you must be aware that there is a difference between old world (European) and new world (rest of the world) wine naming conventions. We will focus on new world wines since we are influenced in our regional market by one of the world’s largest producer, South Africa. Rule of thumb is however; Old world wines, on one hand, are usually labelled by appellation. That means the label probably won’t tell you what kind of grape the wine is made from. It will only tell you where the wine was made. New world wines, (American, Australian South American, South African and others) are usually labelled by grape name. The label will tell you whether you’re buying a Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc or Cabernet Sauvignon.

WINES | SOUTH AFRICA To understand a wine label on a bottle look at the seven common and critical guides; •

Country and region of origin is indicated at the top or bottom of the label for example Stellenbosch (region) and then South Africa

•

Name and/or producer with the more common being Nederburg or Thelema (producers)

•

Variety of grape and style – in southern Africa our shelves are dominated by (white wines) Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and (red wines) Cabinet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah (Shiraz), Pinot Noir and Pinotage. Blends have more than one grape varietal with Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon used more extensively.

•

Sparkling Wines which we know well as the ‘bubbly’ for celebration not to be confused with Champagne which is only referred as such if it has been produced in the region of the same name in France. A conversation for another day… Rose which carries that pretty rose color and a soft landing into the world of wines for some.

•

Vintage or non-vintage. This is the year that appears on the bottle and simply tells you which year the grapes were picked and the labels on the bottles will show the year in which the wine was made.

•

Alcohol level. ... Can have anywhere between 5% and 23% alcohol by volume (ABV). The average alcohol content of wine is about 12%. This amount varies depending on the variety of wine, as well as the winemaker and their desired ABV.

•

Sulfites. Either a natural by-product of the fermentation process or an added ingredient that work as a preservative against certain yeast and bacteria (which will quickly destroy a wine if they start to multiply)

•

Sweetness. This will range from sweet to dry

Armed with this basic but highly useful information you are in better command to make that ultimate selection and also to recommend to others. It is now your time to go out and have some fun in the aisle and pouring the glass. Let it be the start of many long and memorable moments with wine. Drink responsibly, stay safe and until next time…

May the vine be with you.

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | ARTIST INTERVIEW

Artist Interview

TICHAONA NCUBE [ PHOTO: Tich the Watchman ]

[ WRITER: Andrew Muswala ] Briefly tell us about your background? Born on December 1986, in Tsholotsho a western rural area of Bulawayo in Zimbabwe. I started drawing as a boy. My art interests began to emerge in drawing cattle and wildlife like the greater kudus which we would encounter during herding cattle in the bush close to the Hwange National Park boundary. I attended school and grew up in Tsholotsho and then moved to Victoria Falls in 1999 for my secondary school education at Mosi-oaTunya High School, where I had a year in an art class during my final year and I then started to pursue Art as a career in November 2002. Was introduced to the professional art industry by Sanele Dhlomo and the late Jimmy James Nkomo who had been drawing and painting in Victoria Falls. Since then, I have marketed locally and outside the country and have my works collected by both tourists and art collectors.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

Young and upcoming artists are often inspired by nature and in this region, specifically by the world class Victoria Falls, which is so wonderfully rich in natural beauty. I find most of my ‘brush stroke’ encouragement from the professional wildlife artist Larry Norton. Currently, I am working from a small home tent-studio and within the parameters of lockdown restrictions, I freelance as a tutor with an art safari company @Art of Africa Zimbabwe (http://www.artofafrica.co.zw/) also as an art instructor and mentor at Arts for Animals (Children in the Wilderness/Wilderness Safaris, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, Social@ arts4animals) where I hold art club workshops with high school students focussing on talent development and environmental awareness with wildlife conservation. I’ve spent most of the Covid-19 lockdown producing art works at my home studio.

ARTIST INTERVIEW | ZIMBABWE

How would you describe yourself?

What makes it challenging?

I love God. I love people and music. I love nature. These are the true rhythms of life. I cherish outdoor living and the ‘African village’ lifestyle. When it comes to my work(s), I believe artists and art admirers have a better perspective, so I ask them what they think and see from my work. I listen to critiques and take notes because am not easily impressed with everything I do. Almost every artist has this feeling within themselves, “I want to be better than this tomorrow”. I also wish for enough strength to change for a better tomorrow, guess that’s what pushes me to go on each day, trying to improve my work. That makes me a happy person pursuing, what am sure I’m going to win someday, because I love happiness. I know everyone loves happiness too and with art we can find that happiness together.

Having to let go of your work to buyers eventually. Sometimes it feels like loss. But, I mean, those are the rewards, right?

What do you love most about your career? Freedom of expression, no limitations to what I wish to accomplish. It all depends on me and the time I render. What has been the best part of your career so far?

During COVID-19 pandemic the huge challenge is support, people don’t have enough to spend. Even if they had, it’s quite a scary experiment to spend money on art while people need food and medicine which I’m in need of too! If people from different parts of the world want to buy your art pieces, how do they get hold of you? I’m reachable on WhatsApp and calls on my Cell at +263 77 261 9188 or +263 71 595 9328, E-mail at ncubezt07@gmail.com and most importantly visit and follow me on my social media pages: Facebook//TWI @tichthewatchman Any final words?

2. Making art during lockdowns has made me realise the importance of ART! Less interruptions, less noise and very limited movements (though I value physical exercise).

I’d like to say that my work takes a critical view of human and wildlife issues. I think of my work as inventories of fragments and representations, to invite the viewer to connect back to nature and the relationship we have lost with the Creator. I try to make visible what is overlooked in our origins, the natural world. My approach has always been grounded in pleasure and aesthetics. A shared perception reveals that survival is required for both human nature and all our surroundings and wildlife. ~thewatchman©2021

What makes your job exciting?

MEDIUMS AND THEMES

Control and ownership of my work is rewarding, only needs good Timing.

Watercolors, oil & acrylic paintings, pencil sketches, pastels, murals, still life, landscapes, portraiture and abstracts.

There has been two special moments in my life as an artist so far; 1. Johannesburg in South Africa, 2009, selling my work in a foreign country with a man called Johan Le Roux.

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | ARTIST INTERVIEW

Art by TICHAONA NCUBE T.N. “SHADOWS“ Zebra Eye 52 x 52cm Oil on Canvas

T.N. “THE RARE OBSERVER” Leopard Portrait 50.5 X 50.5cm Oil on Canvas 2020

T.N. “THE LAST TUSKERS” Pencil Sketch on paper, 42 X 120 cm

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

ARTIST INTERVIEW | ZIMBABWE

BUFFALO BULL Watercolor 15 X 17cm

Leopard Cubs Watercolor on Paper 21 X 30cm

T.N. NEW DAWN Wild dogs Landscape, Oil on Canvas 80 X 120cm

TICHAONA NCUBE Cell at +263 77 261 9188 or +263 71 595 9328, E-mail at ncubezt07@gmail.com SOCIAL Media pages: Facebook//TWI @tichthewatchman

May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | COUNTDOWN TO EXTINCTION

COUNTDOWN TO EXTINCTION:

The African ELEPHANT [ WRITER / PHOTO: Makhosi Ncube ]

“

Fewer tourists mean increased poaching. Furthermore, the sudden loss of revenue from the travel bans all around the world has had an unfortunate effect in antipoaching activities and units, as this unfortunate event is rumored to have resulted in job losses for Park wardens, rangers, and game scouts throughout Africa, leaving a huge gap in the fight against poaching.

”

TRAVEL & LEISURE | May - Aug 2021

LOVING LUSAKA | ZIMBABWE

On the 12th of August 2012 World Elephant Day was born, its birth came about due to the ongoing decimation of the world populations of elephants. it is hard to believe that a century ago the population was estimated to be over 3 million, fast forward to today and we have a mere 400 000 or so elephants left. At this rate, come year 2040 we could be down to no elephants at all. They could be extinct, a story we will tell our grandchildren about. According to research just in the past decade the elephant population has dropped by 62% with an elephant being said to be poached every 26 minutes.

From 2010 to 2014 it is said the price of ivory in the Asian markets tripled, mostly in China, hence driving up the illicit trade of poaching with syndicates making millions if not billions of dollars as the price of illegal ivory soared up and exceeded that of gold. One of the worst cases of elephant poaching up to date would be that which took place in Hwange National Park in 2013. It provided a wake-up call to the whole world and showed the worst in humanity when poachers, instead of using rifles which they normally use, resorted to an even worse method, and poisoned several waterholes in the park with cyanide. This resulted in the death of over 150 elephants and several other species which include the endangered species such as vultures. While the poachers were eventually caught the damage had already been done with reports suggesting that up to twice that number might have been lost due to the poisoning. That stimulated the introduction of stricter measures and more policing. As a result, the park had an upturn in terms of its anti-poaching activities such as patrols around the park and deployment of police and military to assist the rangers. They also received lots of help from well-wishers financially and with equipment such as torches, ammunition, GPS devices etc. Various safari companies also colluded in setting up anti-poaching units to work with National Park. Meanwhile the COVID-19 outbreak has taken us a step back in our fight against poaching, limited international travel has resulted in little May - Aug 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | | LOVING LUSAKATO EXTINCTION ZIMBABWE COUNTDOWN

funds been available to fund anti-poaching patrols. Another factor is that with no tourism happening in the park it means poachers know there is limited movement of vehicles which could result in them being seen and reported. As tourists and also safari camps do act as unofficial Park rangers with their constant movement around the park. Fewer tourists mean increased poaching. Furthermore, the sudden loss of revenue from the travel bans all around the world has had an unfortunate effect in anti-poaching activities and units, as this unfortunate event is rumored to have resulted in job losses for Park wardens, rangers, and game scouts throughout Africa, leaving a huge gap in the fight against poaching. With fewer eyes and boots on the ground to conduct regular patrols through vast areas of the park essentially doubling the workload for the remaining people. In addition, Human wildlife conflict has always been a huge factor in Africa and now it’s only going to get worse, especially with many people living in the boundaries of the parks having been laid off from their jobs in the tourism sector leading to no income to assist their financial needs. These are the people who usually also assist in the fight against poaching especially in and around their communities, but with the effects of COVID-19 they are unfortunately having to turn to poaching themselves for them and their family’s survival. With elephants being known to meddle in community boundaries

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a lot of times, destroying the crops that the communities depend on for survival. It only results in people retaliating and killing them for their meat as their only source of food will have been ravaged by the elephants. Unfortunately, it does not end there they are more inclined to join and carry the ivory for the poachers, or scout ahead and warn poachers of patrols. This is because it is a quick source of money for them during these troubling times and it makes them more reluctant to report cases of poaching as they get bribed to keep quiet. Regrettably, an increase in snares has been reported in Hwange National Park since the beginning of the Zimbabwe lockdown in March and June 2020, with over 1000 snares discovered as opposed to just half of that at the same that, in the previous year. One can only imagine the numbers to date. Sadly, even the elephants, often also do end up tangled in these snares resulting in slow painful deaths for them. In my opinion, I would like to think that no animal has faced more persecution than the elephant in Africa. A lot of people just think of them as dangerous animals but there is more to them than that. We could learn how to be better human beings from just observing how these animals are, the way they empathize with each other, how they celebrate birth, how they mourn death, to the way they care not just for their young but for each one of them. Just like us, the elephants are very emotional creatures and their intelligence and capability to solve problems is an amazing thing to behold.

We each have our role to play in the fight of elephant poaching both as individuals’ private organisations and the Government: • The government together with the private sector must set up more anti poaching task forces to work together and share resources. • The governments must address socio economic needs of areas around the park and subsidize them and help start up community projects. • A new system must be set in place to monitor the selling of firearms and ammunition with ballistics tracing for all ammunition found at poaching sites, making it easier to trace guns involved. • As individuals we can join or support companies involved in conservation of wild animals, • Report illegal wildlife trade, • And not buy ivory products or uncertified products of wildlife.

Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe May-Aug 2021

Articles inside

Countdown to Extinction: The African Elephant

Tichaona Ncube

Getting behind the Label

We are Victoria Falls

Helping Hands in snake safety

Kariba Town: What’s on offer

Nottingham Estate Resorts

The Grey Crowned Cranes of Hwange National Park

Interview with Leslie Nevison

Seasons of the Zambezi

Loving Lusaka

A Water Wonderland

A Walk on the Wildside

The importance of The Kaza TFCA

Destination Livingstone

Isolating on the Busanga Plains

Kasanka - a hidden gem

Easing the Burden of Covid 19

Paradise found