Travel & Leisure Zabia & Zimbabwe Sept - Dec 2021 by Lyn G

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SINDABEZI ISLAND CAMP Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

CONTRIBUTIONS

CONTENTS

COVER Black Lechwe in Bangweulu Wetlands. Photo credit: Remote Africa Safaris. Photographer: Patrick Bentley.

ISSUE 19 | SEPT - DEC 2021

Helping hands in snake safety

Bangweulu - where the Water meets the Sky

Paddling to a powerful beat Canoeing the upper Zambezi

Publisher Safari Magazine Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala kwisanoent@gmail.com Layout & Art Director Lyn Grandemange grandemangelyn@gmail.com Sub-Editor Tessa Buhrmann tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za

Supporting Wildlife Rangers in South Luangwa

Victoria Falls: The Perfect Wedding Destination

Subscriptions kwisanoent@gmail.com +260 977 308 711

Exploring Conservation Careers with the North Luangwa Conservation Programme Take a walk on the Wildside North Luangwa

14 17 Food for Thought: A Victoria Falls City COVID-19 Success Story

Cycling for a Cause REDD+: The new frontier of conservation finance in Africa

Website www.zambiatravelmagazine.com

24 Bumbusi - A Hidden Gem in the

Truest Sense

Contributors Nick Riddin, Patrick Bentley, Remote Africa Safaris, Edward Selfe Photography, BioCarbon Partners, Sarah Kingdom, Chloe Lee Evans, Brooke Berlin, Johann Vanzyl, Shelley Cox, Nicholas Milne, Chris Chiparaushe, Wilderness Safaris, African Bush Camps, Tessa Buhrmann, Sarah Kerr, Sean Hind, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, Linde Meintjes, Marcel Van Driel, North Luangwa Conservation Programme, Mana Meadows, Besnart Manda, Conservation South Luangwa, Mindy Roberts, Time + Tide, Barbara Ingram. Submissions We welcome editorial and photographic submissions to the magazine. Accompanying images should be sent in high-res jpg and minimum 3MB in size. Please send a synopsis of the proposed article to kwisanoent@gmail. com for consideration. Printers New Horizon Printing Press Plot # LUS/9815/H Kafue Road, Lusaka, Zambia

Mosi-oa-Tunya, and the mighty Zambezi River Five reasons to visit Zambia 2

Early Morning Bird Cruise on the

32 36

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

Zambezi river

Unpacking the Safari Industry

Copyright Copyright © All rights for material appearing in this magazine belong to Safari Magazine and/or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or without due acknowledgement.

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

A WORD FROM THE MD

A WORD

WELCOME TO ISSUE 19 OF TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA & ZIMBABWE MAGAZINE.

from the MD

[

ANDREW MUSWALA

]

WELCOME TO ISSUE 19 OF TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA & ZIMBABWE MAGAZINE. We are delighted to celebrate our sixth year of publication with this bumper issue featuring exciting destinations and inspiring projects. We are grateful to all those companies who have embraced our objective over the years and appreciate the support of both our advertisers and readers, especially as this magazine is privately owned and funded entirely by advertising. The magazine is dedicated exclusively to two African nations – Zambia and Zimbabwe, and we hope this issue will stimulate your love affair with these most exciting destinations. Travel with us to the Bangweulu Wetlands, a natural gem, with sheer scenic beauty, and utterly breathtaking - our cover feature in this issue explores the wetlands in depth (p6). Elsewhere in this issue, we look at Exploring Conservation Careers in North Luangwa (p14), 5 Reasons to visit Zambia (p36), Victoria Falls: The perfect Wedding Destination (p44) and Unpacking the Safari industry (p58). Also, we would like to welcome Tessa Buhrmann to our team as our new Sub-Editor. We believe you will enjoy reading this publication and that hopefully it will help you plan your next visit to Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Happy Reading!

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

[

TESSA BUHRMANN

]

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | BANGWEULU

BANGWEULU – where the Water meets the Sky [ WRITER: Sarah Kingdom ]

[ PHOTOS: Linde Meintjes, Patrick Bentley ]

We wake to the cry of a fish eagle, and I’m reminded of what explorer and missionary David Livingstone is said to have remarked in Bangweulu almost 150 years ago… “it is as though the large black and white predator were calling to someone in another world.” This was shortly before, exhausted by a gruelling eight-month trek through the swamps, searching for the source of the Nile, he knelt beside his bed to pray and died. Livingstone’s heart was buried, beneath a mpundu tree, near the edge of the Bangweulu Swamps, his body was carried to the coast and sent back to England where it was ultimately buried in Westminster Abbey.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

We are in Shoebill Island Camp, nestled in a grove of quinine trees, on a tiny island in the Bangweulu Wetlands. We’ve woken early, to paddle from the camp to the floodplains, to see the endemic black lechwe, who call this unique wetland home. We reach the floodplains just as the sun peeks over the horizon, turning the sky from grey to pink. As we stand on the causeway that runs through the middle of the floodplains, there are thousands of lechwe, as far as the eye can see, barely visible in the early morning mist. Having come into the water overnight for safety, the lechwe are now heading slowly back towards the tree line, grazing on nutrient rich semiaquatic grasses as they go. We’ve come to the Bangweulu Wetlands, in north-eastern Zambia, specifically to see the black lechwe, as well as the wetland’s two other flagship species, the shoebill and wattled crane.

BANGWEULU | ZAMBIA

Black lechwe are listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List, and their numbers have sadly plummeted drastically. Fifty years ago, more than half a million black lechwe could be found in Bangweulu. An aerial census in 1983 estimated the population had plummeted to 35,000. Fortunately, in 2008 African Parks began working in Bangweulu, and since then black lechwe numbers have steadily increased, currently standing at over 50,000. The Bangweulu Wetlands spreads across 6,000km2. This is an extraordinary, communityowned, protected wetland, with a diverse ecosystem of floodplains, seasonally flooded grasslands, miombo woodlands and permanent swamps; making it one of Africa’s most important wetlands. The area is home to both wildlife and up to about 50,000 people. Bangweulu is unique in terms of wildlife conservation, in that it is made up of Game Management Areas, where community members are permitted to sustainably harvest natural resources. ‘Sustainability’ has not always been the case though. Relentless poaching had exterminated several large mammal species, not only decimating the black lechwe population, but also leaving only a tiny remnant of once healthy populations of buffalo, elephant and hartebeest. Over population, overfishing, and unsustainable pressure on wildlife, ultimately led local Community Resource Boards and the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife, to enter into a long-term agreement with African Parks, to sustainably manage and protect the area’s natural resources.

local fishing village. On the way to find it we hear a little of the bird’s history. Poachers had taken the baby chick from its nest and, removing it from the swamps, were actively trying to sell it when they were apprehended. The chick was confiscated and returned to the wetlands, where it is being nurtured by rangers until ready for release back into the wild. Heading to where the rescued bird had last been seen, our guide stands at the front of the canoe, long pole in hand, propelling us through the narrow channels in the thick reeds and papyrus. With large numbers of people living seasonally in the swamps, we pass numerous small settlements. Music blares, children laugh and play, men talk, and women do the ‘chores’, which can’t be easy, given the very basic living conditions, and being permanently surrounded by water on all sides.

of the channel and we climb overboard, wading through the knee deep water to get a little closer. We don’t get too close, though I think if we had wanted to, it would have just about let us walk up and pat it on the head! Seeing us, the shoebill stands up, preens a little, flaps his wings experimentally, and displays some fancy footwork, all before lying down again and apparently falling asleep. We splash back to the canoe and head back to camp. Shoebills are endangered, the IUCN estimates global populations of these amazing bird to numbers somewhere between 3,300 and 5,300, and these numbers are decreasing. The area of the Bangweulu Wetlands currently protected by African Parks is home to somewhere between 300 and 500 of these birds, and we were very fortunate to see not only this rescued shoebill, but several more during our visit.

When we find it, the shoebill is lying on top of an ant-hill on the outskirts of a fishing settlement. We anchor the canoe at the edge

As we sit by the fire after dinner that night, millions of stars sparkle overhead and countless fire flies flit in the shadows outside the circle of

The Bangweulu Wetlands are home to an abundance of birds, including 400 of globally significant migratory and resident birds. But the ‘jewel in the crown’ is definitely the shoebill. We spend our first afternoon on a shoebill ‘hunt’. Cheating a little, we head for a rescued shoebill who, having become habituated to humans, is usually fairly easy to find near a Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | BANGWEULU

firelight. We can hear hyenas in the distance. We can also hear music and chatter from a nearby fishing village. The next morning we head out again. First spending time with another shoebill, this one barely 20 minutes from camp. He stands and watches us for a while and then, with his large, splotchy, sharp edged bill, he forages in a channel opened up by local fishermen. A teenage boy arrives to repair some fishing nets that have been damaged by a hippo the previous evening. The shoebill stands watching the boy too. Only once the boy has finished repairs, and starts walking a little closer, does the shoebill, with a powerful leap and a few heavy wing beats, take to the air and fly away. We carry on paddling, and around a few more bends we find several wattled cranes and stop to watch.

Wattled cranes are the rarest of Africa’s crane species and numbers are in decline. The future of wattled cranes in Africa may well depend on Zambia. With large breeding and flocking grounds in the Bangweulu Wetlands (and also in Kafue Flats, Busanga Plains and Liuwa Plains) Zambia is home to more than half of the global population of these incredible birds. Bangweulu itself holds 10% of the world’s wattled crane population. The future looks a little bleak for these cranes, though this was easy to forget as we saw pair after pair of the long legged, bare faced, black capped birds, with their distinctive long white necks and white wattles dangling at their throats. Having had such success with our shoebill hunt and wattled crane watching, we paddle back to camp for lunch. As we eat, we looked up and see yet another shoebill soaring overhead, his long legs and distinctive large bill silhouetted against the bright blue sky.

Bangweulu Wetlands is a successful model of community driven conservation. A project designed to ensure both people and wildlife equally benefit from the area’s incredible natural resources. When Africa Parks began working here overpopulation was a colossal problem. With approximately 50,000 people living legally within its boundaries, and 100,000 more living in the surrounding areas, poaching, over fishing and the cutting of trees for charcoal was a big problem. The entry of African Parks saw the implementation of wildlife education, reproductive health and beekeeping programmes. Rangers were employed to patrol, remove snares, and confiscate illegally caught fish and poached game meat. Africa Parks has also successfully translocated large numbers of animals into Bangweulu, including zebra, impala, buffalo and, in 2020, cheetah were released back into the area, with more due later this year. Tourism has been a focus, with two community camps (Nkondo and Nsobe) being opened, as well as the fabulous Shoebill Island Camp (under the management of Remote Africa Safaris). The long-term sustainability of Bangweulu, one of Africa’s most extraordinary and important wetlands, will depend on continuing to build, and maintain, successful partnerships with the local communities. This is without a doubt a place worth conserving and visiting. For bookings at Shoebill Island Camp contact www.remoteafrica.com/camp/shoebill-islandcamp/ and for enquiries and accommodation through African Parks contact www.africanparks.org/the-parks/bangweulu.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | SUPPORTING WILDLIFE RANGERS

SUPPORTING WILDLIFE RANGERS In South Luangwa

[ WRITER: Besnart Manda ] [ PHOTOS: Conservation South Luangwa ]

The Wildlife Ranger

Challenge (WRC) is a multi-million-dollar fundraising initiative set up to support the male and female rangers from across Africa’s protected areas, who are enduring drastic cuts in salaries and resources due to the devastating economic impact of Covid-19, and yet are still working tirelessly to safeguard the continent’s wildlife.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

SUPPORTING WILDLIFE RANGERS | ZAMBIA Tusk and NATURAL STATE partnered with the Game Rangers Association of Africa, The Thin Green Line, and the International Ranger Foundation to launch this pan-African challenge so that rangers across Africa could raise funds that would help thousands of their colleagues, enable them to support themselves and their communities and to protect African wildlife such as elephants, pangolins, rhinos, and lions. The Scheinberg Relief Fund, the amazing match-funding donor of the WRC, generously committed $1.35 million of matching funds in support of rangers to raise a total of $5 million and get thousands of rangers back to full capacity. Last year Conservation South Luangwa participated in the challenge and raised $368,137. This was through our fundraising from many generous donors and 25% match-funding from the Scheinberg Relief Fund through Tusk. Every contribution, no matter how small, helped us reach this amount. This support was critical to CSL at such a precarious time and because of it, and other support, we were able to keep all our rangers and scouts employed all year and keep wildlife poaching to a minimum. The funds that were raised were used to pay ranger salaries, provide anti-poaching patrol food rations and first aid, fuel for patrol deployment, and essential equipment. Rachel McRobb, CEO CSL recently shared “We are not out of trouble yet as we fly in to the second half of 2021, and are still feeling the economic impacts from COVID-19, in some cases, even more so than in 2020. We are once again taking part in the Wildlife Ranger Challenge 2021 to raise funds and keep our rangers fully employed to protect the wildlife in South Luangwa Valley. Our team consists of four rangers who will be taking part in a 21km half-marathon carrying a 22kg backpack on the 18th of September, in solidarity with rangers across Africa.”

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | SUPPORTING WILDLIFE RANGERS Our 2021 team is a combined team of DNPW and CSL rangers/scouts, who are all part of South Luangwa’s elite Quick Reaction Force (QRF) team. They are Ken Chanda - DNPW Wildlife Police Officer, James Phiri - CSL Community Scout, Ceaser Chenda - DNPW Wildlife Police Officer who is the only scout taking part for the second time in the WRC, and last but not least the experienced Sailota Kumwenda, a CSL Community Scout who graduated in 2007. The Scheinberg Relief Fund is matching all donations until the 30th of September. If you donate US$100, we will receive US$125, with another $75 going to The Ranger Fund to be distributed across Wildlife Ranger Challenge participating organisations. This helps channel funding where the need is greatest.

Please join us in protecting South Luangwa’s wildlife by: - Donating to our 2021 Wildlife Ranger Challenge team so we benefit from the Scheinberg Relief Fund match-funding via our just giving page https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising conservation-south-luangwa-2021 - Registering to run or take part in the mini challenges. Find out more at wildliferangerchallenge.org/register - Sharing the updates on social media and raising awareness of the Wildlife Ranger Challenge. Facebook: @cslzambia.org Instagram @cslzambia

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | EXPLORING CONSERVATION CAREERS

EXPLORING Conservation Careers with the North Luangwa

Conservation Programme

[ WRITER: North Luangwa Conservation Programme ]

When you think of a career in conservation, what springs to mind? A park ranger? An ecologist? A wildlife veterinarian? While these jobs are certainly crucial to conservation, they’re not the only paths one can take to have a job that entails conserving natural resources. We’d like to introduce you to some of our North Luangwa Conservation Programme conservation leaders of the future and share their career journeys. Their job descriptions may just surprise you! The good news is that, if you have a passion for conservation and dream of a fulfilling career that works towards the ultimate goal of conserving nature for the benefit of people and wildlife alike, you have more than one option. Today, more than ever, the field of conservation requires diverse qualifications, world views and work experiences.

RING MUYEMBE:

[ PHOTOS: Mana Meadows ]

Established in 1986, the North Luangwa Conservation Programme is a partnership between the Frankfurt Zoological Society and the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife to conserve the North Luangwa ecosystem.

Mechanic

After completing Grade 12, Ring Muyembe considered becoming a pharmacist. Ring had always been interested in conservation and she had been an enthusiastic attendee of NLCP’s Lolesha Luangwa education programme. She loved it so much she would attend lessons she’d already completed the year before! But a career in conservation – or mechanics – had never occurred to her. “I never thought about mechanics at first, but after hearing about the opportunity, I said to myself, ‘let me just try it, and if it doesn’t work, I can go back to my career dream’. And I found it so interesting that I have forgotten about a career in pharmacy. I would like to advance in mechanics and reach a level where I have my own workshop and run my own garage. It wouldn’t be far away – it would be here in Mpika, so that people can be inspired to see that, through North Luangwa, I have reached my dream.” She says, “It feels so good being an example to the world. I encourage others to be hardworking and determined. You can become whatever you want as long as your mind is set.” Ring spends weekdays in North Luangwa National Park. “At first, it was hard leaving my family behind, but now it’s so interesting. I’ve seen a lot of animals like elephants, even lions, zebras, and I enjoy the fresh air. Conservation is not all about law enforcement. It is about us, the people who are in the community, coming together and promoting and protecting our animals, because it is for our own benefit.”

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

EXPLORING CONSERVATION CAREERS | ZAMBIA

EPHRAIM LOMBE:

Senior Community Conservation Officer

From forestry to people – Ephraim Lombe’s conservation career so far has shown that diversity can be the key to seeing the bigger picture more clearly. “I love a lot of things about my work. My job is dynamic. Conservation not only brings job satisfaction; it also provides a fulfilling satisfying life. It is, however, important to keep an open mind, be humble and learn different skills.” “I have always been interested in science and growing up, I wanted to be an environmental scientist dealing with climate change. I’ve always believed that plants were the lungs of the earth, and this belief was my driving force.” Ephraim wanted to study ecology but found that forestry was the closest option available. “I decided to take it up and see where it would lead me – even though I was set on becoming an ecologist handling climate change.” After completing his studies, he worked as a GIS and Environmental Consultant, where he dealt with scientific and technological support, with very limited community and social issues. When NLCP advertised for a position as a community conservation officer, he jumped at the opportunity to further develop in the field. The new position required him to learn fast. His diverse background came in handy because, he says, communities themselves are diverse entities. “Communities are made up of different individuals with varying personal interests, all facing their own challenges. This job forces me to handle different issues. I travel a lot and interact with the needs of both the community and wildlife. Conservation has now become more of a long and exciting vacation to me than a job.” “If communities are not willing to conserve, will other conservation strategies actually take effect or be sustainable? The community is at the center of conservation. My role is to ensure that conservation strategies have community buy-in and participation.”

JOYCE CHILUBA:

Canine Handler and Control Room Operator

Joyce Chiluba came into conservation through law enforcement. In just five years she has expanded her career roles – venturing into canine handling, operations, and mentoring. “Being a scout is a good way to get into conservation. But it is not the only way. You can do accounting, teaching, mechanics, and many things. Because even as scouts, yes, we are protecting animals, but without vehicles, without money, can we be scouts?” When Joyce decided to try out this career, very few females were represented in law enforcement. Her family worried for her, and her friends laughed at her. “There were very few women in conservation. In villages like Mukungule, in places like Nabwalya, Chifunda, when a woman wanted to join conservation, they were scared to be a scout because it was [seen as] for men only. “Men were complaining about how strict the selection was. So, I was thinking, if a man is complaining like this, what about me? But I thought, let me just try, if I don’t manage, then God will give me another way to get into conservation.” Joyce passed her initial pre-selection scout test as well as the three-month training course. Within a year of becoming a community scout, Joyce had emerged as a leader and inspiring female role model in her community. Friends started asking her advice and she was selected for further leadership training within the NLCP. “Some people discourage you about what you want to do in your life. But look how other people are doing in conservation, then believe in yourself, and have the courage to say, ‘I can do this’.”

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | EXPLORING CONSERVATION CAREERS

CONSERVATION INVOLVES COLLABORATION ACROSS MANY SECTORS Who better to appreciate the breadth of conservation roles required in conservation than our own Area Warden of *NLAMU, Pumulo Nyambe, who knows the North Luangwa ecosystem by heart. We asked him how conservation has changed since he first started his career 18 years ago: “Conservation needs collaborated effort from all sectors and stakeholders, unlike in the past where other stakeholders were considered unimportant and it was left to law enforcement only. In North Luangwa the administration team facilitate the procurement of patrol rations, fuel for patrol deployment, patrol equipment, salaries, incentives etc. Mechanics service vehicles for patrol operations and attend to patrol vehicle breakdowns. Community relations are very important in conservation – they are true partners in conservation. If the relations are good, community members are able to stop poaching and report illegal activities to the law enforcement officers. Through the good

relations between the NLCP and the chiefs, we have introduced community sensitisation meetings in all the chiefdoms surrounding North Luangwa ecosystem whereby we have poachers surrendering illegal firearms.” *NLAMU incorporates North Luangwa National Park, Mukungule, Munyamadzi & Musalangu West.

CONSERVATION CAREER ADVICE As conservationists who have been involved in many aspects of conservation, what advice would you give young people who are interested in conservation as a career?

“It is not a career for job seekers. Conservation is a challenging yet rewarding career to those with passion for it. It requires work in remote or rural areas where transport, communication, and social amenities are often a problem. It is a career for those with a heart and passion for conserving natural resources for the benefit of current and future generations.” Pumulo Nyambe, Area Warden of NLAMU

“Conservation is about team work, trust and creating an environment where multiple departments and stakeholders need to come together. This article unveils just a few of our leaders: it’s exciting to know that there are many more of them, at many levels, coming through the ranks all the time. With key individuals like these, the future is bright for North Luangwa.” Ed Sayer, Country Director FZS Zambia and Programme Manager

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE | ZAMBIA

Take A Walk

ON THE WILD SIDE [ WRITER: Sarah Kingdom ] [ PHOTOS: Remote Africa Safaris ]

NORTH LUANGWA

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE Africa’s Great Rift Valley extends southwards into north-eastern Zambia. It is here that the Luangwa River, a tributary of the Zambezi, has carved out a unique and beautiful landscape. Home to Zambia’s only black rhinos, its elephant stronghold and with one of the highest lion densities in the region. We had come to explore this amazing place on foot. Remote and wild, only accessible by flight, or with good bush driving skills. Walking in North Luangwa is the way to explore this place. With few roads and even fewer people, you are unlikely to see anyone else for the duration of your safari. First stop was Chikolongo campsite on the outskirts of the park, high on the dramatic Muchinga escarpment, just three kilometres from Mano Gate, the north western gate of the park. 24% of North Luangwa NP lies within this escarpment which means a diverse range of habitats within the park. The campsite is nestled in miombo woodland on the banks of the Mwaleshi River, close to the river’s source. The rocky stream is an ideal place for a quick swim, and the sound of the water gurgling over the rapids is the perfect

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

sound to lull you to sleep at night. We had the campsite to ourselves. Sitting beside our campfire that night, we looked up and watched the stars in the clear sky above… that is until I lost my balance on my rickety three-legged camping stool, toppled over backwards, and found myself lying on my back like a turtle! Morning came and we woke to the dawn chorus of what sounded like hundreds of birds. Emerging from our tent we sat silently, nursing tea and coffee by the fire. Not yet awake enough to start breakfast preparations, we watched pied wagtails hop from rock to rock in the river, while kingfishers darted along the water’s edge and double-collared sunbirds flitted through the bushes. Overhead a troupe of monkeys chattered as they leapt from tree to tree. We explored a small, scenic trail beside the river, heading upstream for about 1km, pleasantly surprised, considering we weren’t actually inside the park, to see a bushbuck, hyena scat and several elephant footprints in the sand. Rounding a bend in the river we found a pair of elephants tearing down branches to feed… given that we were alone and on foot, we thought it wise to beat a relatively

hasty retreat and head back to camp. Packing away our tent, we headed down the escarpment and into the park itself. A couple of hours later we arrived much further down the Mwaleshi River, where it had widened considerably, turning from fast and rocky to broad and sandy. We could see our destination on the opposite bank. A little reluctant to drive across, having had some 4x4 issues, we parked the car and after a little arm waving and exaggerated miming to the team on the other bank, a couple of camp staff were dispatched across on foot to assist with our luggage and we all wadded across the shallow water together, arriving at Mwaleshi Camp in time for lunch. Walking out from camp that afternoon, we were given some final instructions… “stay behind the guide, single file, no loud noises, pay attention, do NOT wander off.” We walked through long grass, across rivers, ducked under branches and stopped occasionally to untangle ourselves from ‘wait a bit’ thorn bushes. The ‘bush’ is very different when experienced on foot, you become aware of every rustle and crackle in the undergrowth, the snap of every twig underfoot.

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE | ZAMBIA Our first afternoon walk lasted three hours. A magnificent martial eagle soared overhead, lilac-breasted rollers displayed vibrant colours as they swooped through the air. Rattling cisticolas shouted warning calls and grey louries, with their distinctive ‘go away’ calls were everywhere. We watched the insect catching antics of bee-eaters, the ungainly flight patterns of hornbills and had an upclose look at the various nest styles of some of the 12 different weaver species found in North Luangwa. The air was heavy with the heady aroma of Natal mahoganies. Cresting a rise as we approached the river, we found three lions lying in the sand, about 30 metres ahead. We sat on the ground and watched them sleep. A persistent honeyguide called and called, trying to get our attention, and almost revealing our location to the lions, who from time to time raised their heads to see what the commotion was about. As we sat Brent, our guide, explained how honeyguides are brood parasites, laying their eggs in the nests of another bird species, very often bee-eaters. They have been known to physically eject the host’s chicks from the nest or to puncture the host’s eggs with the needle-sharp hooks on their beaks, whilst any

of the hosts young that do hatch are often stabbed to death by the vicious imposter chicks, in order to eliminate competition for the host parent’s care. Incredibly honeyguides have also developed the ability to produce eggs and young that mimic the egg type and gape of their hosts so that the interlopers can pass undetected in their foster homes. It also seems that the honeyguides ability to produce eggs resembling those of their varied host species is not just to prevent choosy hosts from ejecting mismatched eggs, but also to fool other honeyguides, who would otherwise destroy the eggs because of fierce competition for suitable host nests. Leaving the lions, and the honeyguides, we headed back to camp. Sunset turned the river orange and scarlet as we walked along the bank. The smell of the native ‘potato bush’ hung in the air, as did the trademark “popcorn smell” of a genet cat’s scent markings. Back in camp that night we ate dinner by lantern light, overlooking the darkened river. Hyena’s calls filled the night sky, lions roared on all sides and a young elephant across the water trumpeted in alarm.

A typical day’s walking safari in North Luangwa starts at about 5 am. After coffee and breakfast around the campfire on the riverbank, we set off for what would be a five-hour walk. Taking off our shoes we crossed the river. Almost immediately we saw the spoor of the previous day’s lions, but they proved elusive, always seeming a few steps ahead of us. The sun rose and with it, the tsetse flies became a little more bloodthirsty. We skirted the edge of the mopane scrubland and watched the tantalising lion footprints heading deeper into the forest. We carried on, walking through sand, over river pebbles, past woodland and grassland. The occasional nocturnal creature rustled in the undergrowth as they made their way home, while birds and other daytime creatures started to wake up. We were pursued, in vain, by a succession of honeyguides, each one seeming keener than the one before to lead us to the ‘prize’. A juvenile martial eagle, perched in a tree. Nowhere near as magnificent as the adult from the previous day, but still destined to become a fabulous specimen. A couple of Cookson’s wildebeest (one of the valley’s endemic subspecies) crossed our path and

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE then a lone bull elephant, walking along the top of the river bank. He’d found a tree laden with fruit and paused for a leisurely meal. Continuing our walk, ilala palms marked the ancient trails taken by elephants, who had eaten the ginger chocolate tasting palm fruit and ‘deposited’ the seeds as they walked. As the day grew warmer we moved into a grove of bushes on the edge of an almost dry pan. There was a trickle of water remaining, just damp enough to attract elephants, baboons and warthogs, but not quite deep enough to conceal a small crocodile. Lunch and a ‘swim’ in the shin-deep water of the Mwaleshi River right below our room, followed by a siesta, had us refreshed and ready to head out again on foot in the afternoon. Brent gave us a lesson in animal psychology. Explaining to us that if we ‘walked with purpose’ in a straight line, focussed on a destination, we appeared to other animals as a potential threat, like a predator. However when we stopped to look at plants or birds or footprints, giving the appearance of milling about aimlessly, then our behaviour was more like that of another browser and therefore less of a threat, allowing us to get a lot closer to our quarry. We also learnt that among the larger browsers and grazers there are two distinct types of breeding/territorial behaviour. There are those like the wildebeest, where a lone male will guard what he feels to be prime real estate, and which he hopes will attract a bevy of eligible females into his domain. Then there are those like the zebra, where a male will maintain a harem of females and exert his

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

energy rounding up his females and fending off any male who dare make a move on his ‘ladies’. The rest of our afternoon was filled with animal tracks… the swish marks of a crocodile’s tail, the scrape marks of a hippo’s chin bristles in the sand, elephant footprints large and small, lion, leopard and hyena tracks, the indentations of Crawshay’s zebra footprints in the damp river sand, and signs of a trifecta of elusive nocturnal creatures… honey badger, porcupine and aardvark. A three-hour walk (or one hour’s drive) downstream from Mwaleshi, in a beautiful part of this largely unexplored park, is the newly opened Takwela Camp. In the Game Management Area opposite the National Park, at the confluence of the Mwaleshi and Luangwa rivers, the camp offers both walking safaris and game drives. Nestled among groves of African ebony, mahogany, winter thorns and sausage trees, with the occasional ilala palm, the camp is perched three metres above the river. Our room was the perfect vantage point to watch an African fish eagle hunting. He plummeted down to grasp a fish in his talons, resting briefly on the bank before flying off to feast in private. White-fronted and little beeeaters continued swooping out over the water once he’d gone. A necklace of fifty or more hippos stretched across the river here, resting their chins on a sandbank in the shallow water, grunting and squabbling, sounding like a flotilla of motor boats revving their engines. These were

fascinating creatures and we would spend many hours watching their territorial quarrels and wide-mouthed displays as they jockeyed for prime positions in the water. Early morning we crossed the river in canoes, setting off on foot into the park. Handsome kudu and waterbuck gazed passively at us. We followed the tracks of leopard, hyena, genet, aardvark and paused to examine a somewhat pungent civet toilet (civetry). We saw traces of the ‘owners’ varied omnivorous diet. Digested and excreted rodents, lizards and frogs as well as insects, fruit and berries. A civet is one of the few carnivores capable of eating toxic invertebrates like termites and millipedes, and we saw the remains of the distinctive rings of ‘shell’ left from a digested millipede called a chongololo, (which can grow up to 28cm in length). Finding ourselves with elephants on all sides, never close enough to pose a real danger, but close enough to get our adrenalin going, we made a tactical retreat. Final sundowners in the park were spent on the riverbank, overlooking the same large congregation of hippos, who continued to agitate and disagree over territory. The following day, as we crossed the river in the vehicle to head back to civilisation, we found a pair of shy lions resting on the cool sand in the shade of a mahogany tree. Driving out of the park, we rounded the corner and came face to face with a huge herd of buffalo, numbering many hundreds, the perfect farewell to our safari.

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | GREY CROWNED CRANE

Did you know?

Grey Crowned Cranes - are seen in large numbers on the Busanga Plains in Kafue National Park and is one of Zambia’s most beautiful birds.

[ PHOTO: Barbara Ingram ]

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

GREY CROWNED CRANE | ZAMBIA

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | CYCLING FOR A CAUSE

CYCLING for a Cause :

HOW A SOLO BIKEPACKING EXPEDITION SUPPORTED ZCP [ WRITER: Brooke Berlin ]

[ PHOTOS: Johann Vanzyl ] I have cacti and succulents on my mind as I look at a little indoor garden I planted in April, in solidarity. My husband, Johann Vanzyl, still has pinprick scars on his legs from barreling into a barrel cactus while solo bikepacking The Arizona Trail in the United States as a fundraiser for the Zambian Carnivore Programme, and so I think of these aridadapted species often. Curious to make even more of a connection between the two countries (USA and Zambia) beyond the biking (more on that below of course), I asked around, and Kyle Branch, Director of Tusk & Mane Safaris, let me know that “Zambia has around 50 species of Euphorbia and even more succulents under the Euphorbiaceae genus some very uncommon.” Examples of some are Aloe chabaudii in the north’s rocky outcroppings and the Victoria Falls area, Kalanchoe lanceolata in the open woodlands and rocky areas, and Cissus quadrangularis (a common climbing succulent) widely found in various trees. For me, the candelabra Euphorbia (or Euphorbia ingens) common in the Lower Zambezi National Park is as

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

CYCLING FOR A CAUSE | ZAMBIA

iconic as the umbrella Acacia in the Maasai Mara National Reserve or the baobab in Ruaha National Park (though both classified as trees of course). Covid continues to impact funding for conservation entities that protect these beautiful landscapes as well as the creatures living on them, and the people whose lives and livelihoods depend on tourism. Johann has been as enamored with Zambia as he has been with mountain biking for the past two decades, so when he discovered a new genre of the sport – bikepacking – and actually had time at home in Boulder, Colorado (a cycling mecca) available to train and go offgrid, we decided to turn his adventure into a fundraising endeavor. Bikepacking is similar to backpacking, but instead of carrying your life, and life support, on your back, you outfit your bike with bags holding your tent and sleeping bag; all-weather clothes; first aid and mechanical needs; food and water (he carried up to eight liters of water a day); and more, including the GPS with SOS I insisted upon for this ride, as last year, when he rode The Colorado Trail in support of Uthando in South Africa, he didn’t have a way to get in contact when outside of mobile range. He did research, bought a new kit, trained daily, doubled-down on a Keto diet, and eventually weighed out every ounce of food, mapped every possible place to refill water, planned every logistical twist and turn, and then drove to the US/Mexico border to start the 1,120kms of riding, with over 22,000m of uphill climbing, to the south rim of the Grand Canyon (the full Arizona Trail entails disassembling your kit, hiking it across the Grand Canyon, and reassembling it before riding to the Utah border as no wheels are allowed on the Grand Canyon trail). At a time when so many people seemed to be looking for positive motivation and something to be part of that reconnected them to a wider community again, it was amazing to see how many people followed his two-week journey

via social media updates and supported his efforts. In total, more than USD 4,500 was donated to the Zambian Carnivore Programme. “It was just nice to make a difference by inspiring people during a time when we all needed a little push forward. And I wanted to support an organization that wasn’t just working in one region on one species, but across the country in various ways,” Johann said. A tiny little movement can make a very big difference, both in bikepacking, and in fundraising. With the donations, Matt Becker, CEO of Zambian Carnivore Programme, let us know that two important projects were supported: 1. Satellite/GPS collars for wild dogs and cheetah in the Luangwa and Kafue. This revolutionary technology has made it possible for them to intensively monitor entire dog packs and cheetah groups in high-risk areas of these ecosystems in addition to collecting critical data and providing these data to direct anti-snaring patrols. A collar generally costs about $2,300 (depending on if you include downloads at $13/month, activation fees, etc.). With the help of a couple of collars in each group, they tracked 279 wild dogs in 22 packs and dispersing groups last year across nearly 30,000km2.

South African-born, Johann has ridden around his home country in both urban and safari areas. He prefers the more remote locations though because being out in the wilderness for a prolonged period, camping with the raw elements of nature all around, is what excites and ignites him. Historically, in Africa, his options were mountain biking, which he’s also done solo from Tongabezi at Victoria Falls and with John Coppinger of Remote Africa Safaris in the South Luangwa. For a more modern spin on the sport, he was eager to e-bike at Cottar’s Safaris in Kenya’s Maasai Mara as part of their impact activity offerings and is now counting down the days for e-bikes to be delivered to Green Safari’s newest Chisa Busanga Camp in Northern Kafue as part of their silent safari offerings. When he’s ready to ride a mountain bike again, he has his eye on a trip that crosses Rwanda and Uganda on off-road village footpaths (he actually bought and brought back one of the traditional handmade wooden bikes that the local Ugandans use when we were there last October; it’s a piece of art!). And when a road ride is calling, of course the most epic accomplishment will be riding Cape to Cairo. “It remains a lifelong dream but isn’t practical right now from a time perspective,” Johann said. So, for a more time-sensitive spin, he’s also wanting to do the Elephant Epic, which he first found out about when his mate, Jason Mott, owner of Sausage Tree Camp, did the fundraising ride himself. It’s put on by Game Rangers International, the same organization that supports the Lilayi Elephant Orphanage in Lusaka, and is a 75km ride from Lusaka to the Lower Zambezi. This specific ride supports both Game Rangers International and Conservation Lower Zambezi. Until the time when he has more time to do it in person, he signed up for the virtual event this year. Whether you’re riding to raise funds in person or from your Peloton at home, or simply cycling for personal enjoyment, being on a bike is one of life’s joys. So definitely grab ahold of some handles the next time you have the opportunity. Getting around Africa on two wheels is an intimate way to experience local communities and the landscape from a different perspective. It brings you closer to the people and the place and brings a perspective distinctly different to what any game drive vehicle can offer.

2. Uniforms for the rapidly growing team, now close to 50 people. Quite often an overlooked aspect of need and a very difficult thing to fund via most grants, is professional field gear which is needed as an organization becomes more high profile. Across the country their teams conduct a range of conservation initiatives, including community meetings, school programmes, training programmes, humancarnivore conflict mitigation, meetings with DNPW and government, and work with film crews (several films with BBC and National Geographic are ongoing). Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

Place of the Hippo

Experience the Thrill, the Excitement and the Magic of the Mighty Zambezi River in all its Splendour….

At Mvuu Lodge we offer very reasonable rates on all our various accommodation options… camping, self-catering or catered accommodation in our colourful rustic chalets.

Contact: Nicole/bookings +27795248709 Nibby/Lodge +260966363762 Lynne +260966876534 [whatsapp line ] E Mail Bookngs: info@mvuulodge.com

Visit ou r website www.mvuulo dge.com

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

REDD+:

REDD+ | ZAMBIA

The new frontier of conservation finance

in Africa

[ WRITER: Chloe Lee Evans ]

[ PHOTOS: Edward Selfe Photography, BioCarbon Partners ]

As a result of us being in the midst of a global pandemic, Zambia’s economy is estimated to have contracted by 1.2% and thousands of jobs have been lost. There is one sector however that has demonstrated resilience and durability, and that is REDD+. Under BCP’s (BioCarbon Partners) REDD+ benefit sharing mechanism, the LCFP (Luangwa Community Forests Project) is paving the way as the future of sustainable development, conservation finance and climate mitigation, and has injected a direct cash payment of $4.76 million dollars into 12 Chiefdoms in Zambia’s Eastern Province in the space of just nine months. The revenue generated entirely from forest carbon fees is bringing lifechanging benefits to the lives of over 217,000 people across 36,000 households in Zambia’s Luangwa to Lower Zambezi Valleys. When forests thrive, they absorb carbon dioxide and slow down climate change. When communities see the financial benefits of preserving forests they can directly contribute to the well-being and protection of Zambian forests and wildlife. Together with Zambian Government and community partners, BCP is creating an income generating model that sees people, biodiversity and climate action prosper. There are few other industries that can walk such a fragile line and succeed in doing so.

Poverty in Eastern Province affects an estimated 74% of the population. A 2020 independent report found that the average household income in LCFP increased by 171% over a period of five years since 2015, and has created a minimum of 990 employment opportunities for individual community members through community investment and projects created as a result of carbon revenues.

elephant, and leopard. The LCFP supports the employment of 178 community scouts in the ecosystem, supported by two aircraft to protect the wildlife habitat. The largest REDD+ project in Africa by hectares, the LCFP is protecting over 514 million trees across a total of almost one million hectares. Additionally it is the largest REDD+ project in the world by community members benefitting.

“We have used the revenue from the forest carbon fees to invest in infrastructure projects, such as Sandwe Primary School, which was dilapidated but is now renovated, and has seen increased enrolment, especially among female students. It has changed the mind-set of the community members and brought with it a new-found respect for the forest”. His Royal Highness, Chief Sandwe.

“As we see the world awaken to the serious need for climate action, BCP’s goal is, together with its community partners and Zambian Government, to emerge from this trying time in our generation’s history as a strong and reliable conservation partner for the global community to partner with on a journey of ecosystem restoration.” Dr. Hassan Sachedina, BCP CEO.

The LCFP falls within one of the last ten remaining wildlife legacy landscapes on the planet, and the wildlife corridor that falls within the LCFP is supporting a thriving ecosystem that includes lion, wild dog,

To find out more about BCP, and to partner with us on our ambitious journey to benefit millions of people and to help conserve the greatest biodiversity landscapes in Africa please contact us at: info@biocarbonpartners.com

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

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Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | MOSI-OA-TUNYA

MOSI-OA-TUNYA, and the mighty Zambezi River

[ WRITER / PHOTOS: Tessa Buhrmann ]

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

MOSI-OA-TUNYA | ZAMBIA

must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight” and so awed was he that he named it the Victoria Falls, after his Queen. Maps from 1715 and 1750 however show that he was not the first European to set eyes on the falls but was the first to spread the word of its existence to the Western World. And despite its historical and cultural significance as Mosi oa Tunya, the name Victoria Falls has stuck and, in this marketing-orientated world is the brand by which this natural wonder of the world is most known.

No one can deny the awe-inspiring sight that 540-million cubic metres of water plunging 180m into a narrow chasm creates. Nor the spray plume that is visible from about 20km away, drenching everyone that walks the nearby paths in light rain, or the myriads of rainbows that dance within its spray. It was this plume that led the Tonga people, known as the Batoka/Tokalea, to call the falls Shungu na mutitima, meaning ‘boiling water’ or in some cases, ‘roaring lion’, the Matabele called it aManz’ aThunqayo, ‘water that roars’ and the Kalolo-Lozi people, Mosi oa Tunya, ‘the smoke that thunders’. In November 1855, escorted by members of the Makololo tribe, David Livingstone made his way by canoe down the mighty Zambezi. At a distance of ‘five or six miles’ they saw

plumes of what looked like smoke rising in the distance. The wide lazy expanse of water would have soon gathered speed and the distant roar would have become thunderous. His Makololo guides led him to what is now called Livingstone Island directly upstream from the Falls and accessible from the Zambian shore. It is from here that he crept with awe to the verge… “I peered down into a large rent which had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zambezi and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad leaped down a hundred feet and then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen to twenty yards… the most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa” – David Livingstone. Said to have been the first European to have set eyes on this magnificent sight he penned the well-known words: “scenes so lovely

As the largest waterfall in the world, based on width (1.7km) and height (108m), and which combined creates the largest single sheet of flowing water during its peak, it is worthy of inclusion in the Seven Wonders of the World. Additionally, in 1989 the Victoria Falls was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site – meaning it belongs to all the peoples of the world, irrespective of where they come from. And come, they certainly do! Here are a few of the ways visitors can experience the splendour of Mosi oa Tunya and the mighty Zambezi River… Get drenched in the spray: There is nothing more exhilarating than getting drenched in the spray created as the mighty Zambezi plunges into the depths below – and you will be, whether you’re wearing a poncho or not. Walk the slippery trails through the verdant rainforest, where ferns grow with abandon under a canopy of rain. Be in awe as you gaze upon the Falls from various viewpoints and appreciate the thunderous Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | MOSI-OA-TUNYA

into a different world. Navigate a thick jungle of tropical primary rainforest, overhanging vines and palm trees, stepping carefully as you cross streams to finally be rewarded with an exceptional view of the towering basalt walls and waterfall from below, as well as the churning water of the Boiling Pot before they make their way down the Batoka Gorge. For obvious reasons, this is a low-water season activity that takes several hours depending on fitness level due to the steepness of the descent and ascent. Explore Livingstone Island:

sound of Mosi oa Tunya. The Zimbabwe side has more viewpoints, but the Zambian side enables you to get much closer and crossing the metal knife-edge footbridge offers an adrenalin rush all its own with intense spray (March to May) and the churning waters clearly visible. High water season is generally from about February to July and low-water season from August to January, but no matter what time of year you visit, the awe-inspiring Falls will be a highlight. Hike down to the boiling pot: For a completely different perspective, pull on the hiking boots and head along the wellmarked trail from the Zambian side parking lot

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

During the low-water season, it is possible to take a boat from the Zambian side to Livingstone Island. It is here that David Livingstone peered over the edge and using a piece of string weighed down by a few bullets in a square calico cloth attempted to measure the depth of the falls. As Livingstone Island is a protected area much care is taken to protect its natural habitat so there is only one company that is licenced to conduct Livingstone Island tours, which includes the option of a swim in Devil’s Pool. The tour starts with a five-minute speed boat ride through the fast-moving currents and rocky channels, followed by a tour of the island with spectacular views - a completely different perspective to that seen from the opposite side of the chasm. The adrenalin inclined then have the option of swimming in Devil’s Pool, a deep pool created by thousands of years of erosion and protected by a rock ledge on the lip of the Falls. Take to the air: There is no better way to get a perspective of the expanse of the Zambezi River being

squeezed into a narrow chasm than from the air. The anticipation is great as one climbs aboard the helicopter for the aptly named ‘Flight of Angels’. Leaving from the helipad on the Zimbabwe side one gets a birds-eye view of the islands, channels and ‘smoke’ rising in the distance. Flying a figure-eight pattern, so that all occupants get the perfect view, the extent of the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls and the Batoka Gorge beyond becomes evident. Those with a penchant for adventure may prefer to do the microlight flight, an experience only available from the Zambian side. As the only passenger, along with the pilot, you will get a sense of the raw power of the Falls, as well as breath-taking aerial views. Leap off a bridge: If you’re looking for a terrifying, challenging and crazy experience, the Victoria Falls Bungee Jump is sure to fulfil. Besides being one of the most scenic bungees in the world, the 111-meter free-fall and four seconds of unadulterated adrenalin rush will leave your heart pumping and your knees quaking. The Victoria Falls Bridge links Zimbabwe to Zambia and is part of a rail network envisaged by Cecil John Rhodes as a link from the Cape to Cairo. Just remember that as it is located in no man’s land between the Zimbabwe and Zambia border you will need your passport. Swing over the Batoka Gorge: If the idea of bungee jumping is way out of your comfort zone, but you still want an adrenalin rush, then the Wild Horizon’s Adventure activities over the Batoka Gorge are an option. Experience the adrenalin rush of the Zipline as you hurtle 425m across the gorge while suspended 120m above the churning

MOSI-OA-TUNYA | ZAMBIA

Zambezi River. A slightly tamer option is the Gorge Swing which has you free-falling 70m before swinging over the gorge, and for an even tamer experience, the Flying Fox will have you flying horizontally through the air over the gorge. Raft the rapids: The Batoka Gorge is considered to be one of the world’s premier white-water experiences and is said to have some of the most exciting and challenging rapids on the planet, with 23 navigable rapids during the low water

season, and 13 in the high water season. An experience that is not for the faint-hearted or those averse to getting wet – you are guaranteed to get drenched, numerous times! Cruise on the Zambezi River: Whether early morning to catch the sunrise, late afternoon for sundowners or any time in between, make sure you take some time out from all the adventures and relax on the water. Watch as vervet monkeys frolic in the riverine bush, male hippos jostle for superiority and to claim their turf, and crocodiles as they

laze on the riverbanks soaking up the sun. Perhaps you’ll be lucky and spot an elusive leopard or a herd of elephants on the water’s edge. Keep your binoculars at hand as you may spot grey-headed parrots flying overhead, white-fronted bee-eaters as they fly to-andfro from their nest holes in steep riverbanks or the elusive African finfoot as it scurries out of sight in the overhanging branches and undergrowth. Or just sit back and take in the magnificent views – palm trees, lush vegetation and in the distance, the ‘smoke that thunders’.

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | 5 REASONS TO VISIT ZAMBIA

FIVE REASONS to visit ZAMBIA [ WRITER: Mindy Roberts ]

[ PHOTOS: Time + Tide ]

Over the years I’ve heard people confuse Zambia with Zimbabwe and the former Zaire. A guest actually said to me once, not too many years ago as we stood in the South Luangwa, Zambia: “I’m so happy to be here in Zaire, I’ve always wanted to come,” and I’ve previously been asked: “So whereabouts in South Africa is Zambia?” But Zambia should be taken seriously in its own right, thanks to the unbeatable wildlife viewing, incredibly diverse landscapes, and not to mention, one of the world’s natural wonders, the Victoria Falls. As someone who lived in the country for almost a decade, I wanted to put together my top five reasons to visit one of the continent’s lesser lauded countries.

The Guides Zambia has some of the best guides in the world. Most guides are born and bred in the Zambian bush, so understanding the natural world is second nature to them. They genuinely love what they do and have a passion for wildlife. I’ve often seen a guide of 15 or 20 years come back more excited than the guests with what they’ve just witnessed. Every year more than one of the companies in Zambia have their guiding team nominated for ‘best guiding’ awards around the world. And many of them have won those awards year after year. Safety is of utmost importance when it comes to guiding, and the Zambian guides have to continuously complete stringent exams for walking in the bush, canoeing, and boating, as well as maintain advanced driving and first aid skills.

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Remote, vast and magical – Liuwa Plain National Park Liuwa Plain National Park is one of Africa’s greatest secrets; home to the second largest migration of wildebeest in the world. Located in the western part of Zambia, it is an exclusive and remote area spread across over 3,600km2. Liuwa is a photographer’s dream with hyena displaying amazing apex hunting behaviour and their pups so cute. One of my favourite safaris ever was sitting by a den for hours,the only people in the Park…I was never sure if we were watching the hyena or they were watching us; their gaze so curious and clever. The birdlife is also extraordinary – even non birders will be captivated.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

5 REASONS TO VISIT ZAMBIA | ZAMBIA

Family Travel There are wonderful options for family travel in Zambia with family units being offered in many camps. Here is some information if you are traveling to Zambia with your family: - Intergenerational travel is hugely popular in Zambia – the country has private villas and houses as well as interconnecting family tents in camps which are still small and intimate and feel like a bush home, not a hotel in the bush. - Although walking and canoeing are for kids 12 and over, there is plenty to keep kids under this age entertained. I’ve seen kids in the kitchen, cooking with chefs, on poo walks in an open area near camp or chatting with the guides and waiters to learn more about local culture.

One of the last great wilderness experiences Over 33% of the country is designated as part of its protected area network, which means there is a huge variety of different habitats, activities, animals and vistas to explore – you don’t need to go anywhere else to get a whole safari experience.

- Most camps offer pretty good child rates – often at 50% for kids under 18, as does Proflight for all scheduled flights within the country.

I’ve heard Zambia described as what many Eastern or Southern African countries used to be like 10 years ago. It is a lot less commercialised than other parts of Africa, and one still gets the chance to see wildlife without competing with other vehicles or tourists. Although there is 5-star accommodation available, the soul of Zambia is still to be found in the smaller, remote bush camps that use natural materials as part of the construction and give a much more intimate experience with nature.

Owner operated There is a legacy in Zambia of the camps being owner-operated; this is still the case for many of the top camps around the country. This means the people managing the company, own the company.

Why does this make a difference? - Guests can have a meal with someone who lives and breathes the values of the business. Many camps have a very high repeat guest rate and the teams have created long term friendships with guests over many years.

- Personal Pride – as the people who own the camps, managers feel a personal responsibility; issues are sorted quickly and there is pride in giving guests the best safari of their life. - Atmosphere – in effect you are being invited into a ‘home’ which provides for a relaxed and very personal safari. - The camps still retain an authentic feel with every one being different and not having to adhere to a corporate standard.

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | SNAKE SAFETY

[ bark snake ]

HELPING HANDS In Snake Safety

[ WRITER / PHOTOS: Marcel van Driel ]

[ South African python ]

[ brown house snake ] Zambia is home to 99 species of snake. This is a dynamic number, as new species are discovered now and then, such as recently the beautiful Shaba bush viper in the north-western part of the country. In addition, sometimes one snake species is split up in to a new species. This happened with the house snakes. In Zambia we have the brown house snake, the sooty house snake and, since 2020, the Frade’s house snake. They all look and behave similar, apart from their main colour and distribution. Of the 99 snake species, 71 are harmless to human beings. This means that either they have no venom or that their venom is not potent enough to harm a human being. The remaining 28 snakes are considered dangerous to humans. Let’s look at this group of snakes. 12 of the 28 have a venom that can seriously harm a human, especially a child. Their venom is not deadly to humans but can be very painful, lead to swelling and, without medical treatment, could lead to infections or necrosis and in some cases amputation of a digit. Then there are the 15 so called very dangerous snakes. They are the six species of cobra, the black mamba, three boomslang species, the three species of twig snakes, the puff adder and the Gaboon adder. A bite from any of these snakes could, without medical treatment, lead to death. Finally, there is one snake that is considered dangerous but is not venomous: the Southern African python. This is a large (up to 5.50 meter!), powerful snake with a big mouth filled with sharp teeth. A bite from a

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

python leads to many deep lacerations which may require stitching. In addition, the teeth can hit a blood vessel which could lead to severe blood loss. Fortunately, as said: most snakes in Zambia are harmless. They are usually smaller than the dangerous snakes and form an important part of Zambia’s ecological system. In addition: like the dangerous snakes, they eat animals we consider as pests, such as rodents, but also ants and termites. There are even snakes that specialise in only one type of prey. The centipede eaters are an example. Their venom has no effect on us, but they eat the centipedes which have, for us, a very painful venom. Another example is the slug eater which only feeds on slugs.

olive sand snake may be the fastest snake in Africa. The snake with the largest fangs of any snake worldwide also lives in Zambia: the Gaboon adder. Its fangs can grow up to five centimetres! The boomslang is the snake with the largest eyes in the snake kingdom. Finally: the infamous black mamba, with a maximum of four meters, is the longest venomous snake in Africa and the second longest in the world, after the king cobra of Asia. Many people are quite surprised when they find that some snake species are in fact very beautiful. They can have pretty colours and attractive patterns, such as the dwarf whip snake or the common bark snake. Both are very small and mostly eat lizards and frogs. But being pretty means nothing to snakes. The colours and patterns serve mainly as camouflage which helps snakes such as the puff adder not to be detected by its prey, or by would-be predators.

[ rhombic egg eater ]

[ boomslang ]

Zambia is also home to some record-breaking snakes. The largest blind snake, the Zambezi giant blind snake, lives in Zambia as well as the very common olive sand snake which is the largest member of the sand snake family, while the less common dwarf sand snake is the smallest. It is also assumed that the

A special snake is the rhombic egg eater. This snake puts up an impressive display, coiling its body in a horse-shoe shape and moving its rough scales along each other, making a rasping sound, like that of the rattle snakes of America. It will also open its mouth to show the black inside and will lash out ferociously. All to intimidate and deter would-be predators. The interesting part is: not only is this snake harmless to humans and animals, it doesn’t even have teeth! It only eats bird eggs which are swallowed whole. Inside the body, the egg is cracked, the yolk and white sucked out after which the flat eggshell is regurgitated.

KASANKA NATIONAL PARK

LUWOMBWA LODGE: SELF CATERING

Perfect for a family gathering or group social with friends. The property has three en suite chalets with a double bed and two single beds in each chalet – sleeps 10 people. Price is inclusive of two activities per group per day. From

WASA LODGE

Full Board inclusive of all meals and 2 x activities per day cycling, nature walk, self-drive vehicle with guide. Superior Chalet – From USD65 pppn Standard – From

USD200

KAPABI: SELF CATERING TENTED CAMP

for entire lodge per night, two nights minimum policy. Activities include – nature/ bird walk / self-driven game drive with a guide in the afternoon. Use of bicycles and canoeing.

4 x large canvas tents each sleeping two people (sleeps eight) and perfect for groups in order to keep within your bubble. Camp supervisor on hand to assist with food preparation, firewood and water for showers. Exclusive use of full camp from USD160 per night with a minimum of two nights or three nights over a public holiday.

USD55

Email: localres@kasanka.com Website: www.kasanka.com Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | CANOEING THE ZAMBEZI

PADDLING TO A POWERFUL BEAT Canoeing The Upper Zambezi

[ WRITER: Shelley Cox-Africa Conservation Travel ] When you combine passion and purpose to the beat of nature, you can be certain that this powerful trio of ingredients is going to deliver something special. For Prince Ngwenya, it is this trio of components that have continued to drive him and the Victoria Falls Canoeing Company forward with determination to survive the impacts of the COVID pandemic and come out paddling more powerfully than before. Victoria Falls Canoeing Company was started by one of Zimbabwe’s top river guides, Misheck Ngwenya, fondly known by his river guide friends as “Shacks”. Tragically in 2019, Misheck passed away suddenly and without

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

warning, and his wife Stella, along with his son Prince, took over the reins to continue the legacy that Misheck had created – providing exceptional canoeing and guiding experiences for those visiting the majestic Victoria Falls and the upper Zambezi River. Being a guide, it was only natural that fatherhood included instilling his passions and experience into that of his son, and from a young age, Prince quickly developed the same values and similar passions to that of his father – a deep love for the natural world and ambitions to share the incredible beat of nature with others. However it is not just passion that drives Prince forward… since the loss of his father Misheck, Prince has made it his purpose to honour the

[ PHOTOS: Nicholas Milne ] legacy his dad had started and created for him. It is this purpose that has seen Prince working hard behind the scenes to continually look at ways to take the company forward, reviewing current business strategies and forming new partnerships, looking at ways to enhance the traveller experience, and increasing his knowledge under the mentorship of other renowned and well-respected guides and business owners within the tourism sector in and around Victoria Falls. And then of course there is the natural element, the heart and soul of this region and the vital aspect that ultimately brings visitors from far and wide to Victoria Falls – the majestic Zambezi River and the biodiversity

CANOEING THE ZAMBEZI | ZAMBIA along to nature’s beat, following river channels that are gently flowing in some sections, and rapid water in others provides an opportunity to experience both the tranquillity of the river, as well as the adrenalin of the milder whitewater rapid sections. In addition, meandering along the top of the water, mostly silent and inconspicuous, one has the opportunity to view wildlife along the riverbank from a unique vantage point without disturbing them. Picturesque and peaceful, the Zambezi River has a unique beauty of its own where river banks are framed with ancient ebony, water berry, and palm trees and where aquatic birdlife flourishes.

it serves, as well as the world’s largest curtain of falling water and seventh world wonder – ‘Mosi oa Tunya’ - The Smoke That Thunders. The natural environment and the wildlife that inhabit it, is what makes this region so sought after for visitors both near and far, and continues to allow for the diversity of activities that Victoria Falls has become known for on a global scale. Canoeing the Upper Zambezi River has over the years become very popular because of the multiple experiences one can have in just one activity. Paddling

Whilst many travellers may only wish to do a day canoeing on the river, there are multiple options available for those wanting to experience more time along the river, completely immersed in nature, by combining the experience with a rustic and authentic mobile camping adventure. With a full complement of back-up camping safari staff, after a day on the river guests arrive into a fully catered and set up camp in a remote and beautiful location on the edge of the Zambezi River within the Zambezi National Park. Victoria Falls Canoeing Company can tailor the experience to a one-, two-, or three-night mobile canoeing and camping safari where by day guests paddle specific stretches of the river, and by night stories of the day’s adventures are shared around a fire under a starlit sky, before drifting off to sleep to the sounds of the wild in their mobile tents.

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA | CANOEING THE ZAMBEZI The Zambezi National Park is one of Zimbabwe’s most under-rated protected areas and has a wide variety of larger mammals that move through it, including elephant, lion, wild dog, buffalo, and leopard, as well as smaller species such as sable antelope, kudu, waterbuck, giraffe, zebra, and impala. Whether opting for a day trip or one of the mobile canoeing and camping adventures, the start and end of the adventure include a game drive through the National Park and so sightings are not always limited to what is seen along the edge of the river banks whilst paddling. With all experiences, however, it is ultimately the people that shape and make it what it is, and Victoria Falls Canoeing Company have formed a strong dedicated team who love what they do and it shows in the delivery. From their experienced and knowledgeable canoe guides to their back-up camp staff, all eager to showcase what this incredible destination and activity have to offer, and with a purposeful and passionate leader at their helm, the focus is to ensure that guests leave with lifelong memories etched on their souls.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | VICTORIA FALLS - WEDDING DESTINATION

VICTORIA FALLS:

The Perfect Wedding Destination

[ WRITER / PHOTOS: Sarah Kerr ]

Victoria Falls provides an incredibly beautiful and romantic setting in which to celebrate a wedding. The aptly named city on the Zimbabwean side of the Zambezi River offers almost guaranteed sunshine, incredible venues and a wonderful destination for guests to holiday in. Aside from the waterfall, the area is known for its abundant natural beauty. Victoria Falls is surrounded by national parks and wildlife such as elephants and warthog frequent the quaint streets of the small city. As it is a tourist centre it is structured to support groups from two people to over a thousand with a diverse range of accommodation and venues at varying price points. The Zambezi provides a natural structure to life in Victoria Falls with the river functioning as the beating heart of the city. Nature’s centrepiece, the magnificent Victoria Falls, is near the city centre. Its great presence is always felt, with the gentle roar of tumbling water audible throughout the suburbs on a quiet night. In this article I follow the Zambezi Rivers path from upstream to downstream, exploring some of the standout venues in which to celebrate your union as we travel. We begin upstream, in the beautiful wilderness of Zambezi National Park, where the peaceful and wide waters of the Zambezi

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

River flow slowly but steadily toward Victoria Falls as if drawn by a magnet. Within the Park, you can have the quintessential African bush experience and begin your new life together surrounded by baobabs, bush and passing elephants. Rustic venue sites within the Park offer a wealth of untainted bushland and riverside venues. You can pick your backdrop and have a professional events company create the venue of your dreams. Professional organisers can bring in anything you desire to create your signature style. From Bedouin tents, white linen tablecloths to crystal chandeliers, you can be assured of perfect ambience within the pristine bush.

VICTORIA FALLS - WEDDING DESTINATION | ZIMBABWE

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | VICTORIA FALLS - WEDDING DESTINATION Accommodation options here offer an all-inclusive safari experience. Victoria Falls River Lodge is a wonderful choice and offers wildlife viewing opportunities and easy access to the city. Luxurious suites showcase a successful ‘marriage’ of materials. Canvas, glass, timber and thatch come together in open and airy rooms that are replete with private plunge pools and uninterrupted views of the River and bushland. Or you can choose to stay in city and have your ceremony and reception in Zambezi National Park. It’s an easy drive away from Victoria Falls City. As it leaves the National Park the Zambezi’s waters flow past boats and tranquil riverside venues as they gather speed. The river’s edge venue options become more manicured. For an elegant and luxurious experience, the Queenslander inspired architecture of the new Palm River Hotel just four kilometres from Victoria Falls is ideal. Here you can have the bride arrive by boat and marry in beautiful gardens in dappled sunlight while the sounds and sights of the river enhance the ambience. There is a beautiful and grand on-site dining space and two stylish bar options that both take advantage of the dreamy setting. A private villa is a perfect option in which to host the bridal party or the newlyweds. Just downstream from the Palm River Hotel, three kilometres from the Falls, you can wed on the scenic, palm-lined lawns of the Pure Africa waterfront. The company’s luxury cruise boats depart from the waterfront and post-ceremony you can depart on a two-hour sunset cruise before returning to a fully set reception tent sparkling with fairy lights. With a wedding planner on the staff, you can be sure each detail will be taken care of. For the ultimate Robinson Crusoe experience, choose from one of the beautiful wooded islands amid the Zambezi River. These offer a truly unique and wild

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

VICTORIA FALLS - WEDDING DESTINATION | ZIMBABWE

experience. As they are undeveloped you will require the help of an event planner to create a ceremony and reception venue on-site, similar to within Zambezi National Park.

venues, an on-site spa and hairdresser, and multiple outdoor spaces they can confidently cater for large and glamorous events. A bonus is that your guests can stay at the hotel.

Finally, the waters reach the precipice; the magnificent world wonder of Victoria Falls. This is surely the ultimate backdrop to your special day. A small area of The Victoria Falls Rainforest National Park can be booked and cordoned off for the ceremony only, or you can take photographs here after a ceremony elsewhere. The mystical atmosphere within the rainforest and standing next to the kilometrelong waterfall is indescribable.

Ten kilometres downstream from the Falls lies the Elephant Camp and the Wild Horizons Elephant Sanctuary, set on a private concession within the Victoria Falls National Park,. The camp has breathtaking views of the spray from the Victoria Falls and the gorge. You can have an open-air ceremony at the top of the magnificent and steep canyon and the bride, groom and guests can ethically interact with the elephants in the sanctuary during the photo session of the day. The 12 luxurious and romantic tented suites each have a private plunge pool and offer the perfect space for a small group.

The Falls are both spectacular and transformative. The Zambezi’s waters go from calm and wide above the Falls into a violent force that rushes through the wild beauty of the rocky and rugged canyon below. Along the edge of the gorge below the Falls, a few lovely venues take advantage of the vista it offers. Closest to the Falls downstream lies The Lookout Café. The Lookout is a modern structure that confidently cantilevers above the 100-metre high gorge. The Zambezi rushes dizzyingly below and the views of the historic Victoria Falls Bridge and the spray from the Falls are simply spectacular. There are plenty of Instagrammable décor moments and the space is a fantastic reception venue while the on-site kitchen and bar areas make it an easy choice.

From here the Zambezi flows ever onward, passing over the rocky bed of the gorge before

widening and slowing, an everchanging but constant and sustaining force. The perfect metaphor for a marriage. There are many other places in which to celebrate your union but few as fitting and romantic as along Africa’s great river near the Victoria Falls. Sarah is available for weddings, family and other portrait photography. sarahkerr.sk@gmail.com Venues Mentioned • Victoria Falls River Lodge. www.victoriafallsriverlodge.com • The Palm River Hotel. www.palmriverhotel.com • Pure Africa Waterfront. https://pure.africa • The Lookout Café. www.thelookoutcafe.com • Victoria Falls Hotel. www.victoriafallshotel.com • The Elephant Camp. www.theelephantcamp.com • Victoria Falls Event Planners • Louise Nielsen at Victoria Falls Occasions. http://vicfallsoccasions.com

Around the next bend of the gorge, lies the unique heritage of the oldest venue in town. The grand colonial spaces of the 103-yearold Victoria Falls Hotel cannot be beaten for grandeur and class. The hotel has a unique chapel, beautiful lush gardens and a special old-world atmosphere. The architecture of the hotel was carefully planned to overlook the magnificent Victoria Falls Bridge and the magnificent spaces make for incredible photographic opportunities. With three dining Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Food for Thought

[ Victoria Falls Safari Lodge Executive Chef, Simba Musiyiwa in the commercial vegetable garden owned by Maria Huntley-Walker who employs and works with local youths on this project. Vegetables have been donated to the Children Feeding Scheme and seedlings donated to the community for the ‘Feed Yourself, Feed your Neighbour’ program.

a Victoria Falls City

COVID-19

]

[ WRITER: Tessa Buhrmann ] [ PHOTOS: Victoria Falls Safari Lodge

/ Shelley Cox

]

Success Story

During the Second World War, Winston Churchill is credited with saying “never let a good crisis go to waste”. There is nothing ‘good’ about the COVID-19 crisis, but it did bring together key public and private stakeholders to establish the Victoria Falls COVID19 Taskforce. This was on 21 March 2020; just 10 days after the World Health Organisation declared the outbreak as a pandemic and nine days before Zimbabwe went into its first lockdown. The initiatives rolled out would be key for both short-, and long-term success.

Being a region that relies heavily on tourism the role-players realised that they needed to get things under control… and fast if they were to be ready to welcome guests back into their city once the dust of the pandemic had settled. Little did they know that almost 18 months later the virus would still be disrupting local lives and livelihoods to a certain degree - which would have been much worse if the Taskforce hadn’t reacted quickly. “This COVID-19 pandemic has become a catalyst of strategic partnerships between the private and public sector to come up with robust responses as mitigatory measures to save our community and businesses. Tourism is about people, communities and sustainability is key; hence the need for holistic solutions

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

to common challenges like the COVID-19 pandemic being cardinal for a quick come back to some degree of normalcy“ says Anald Musonza, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge GM and vice chairman of the Victoria Falls COVID19 Taskforce. An Emergency Response Plan was developed, and swift action was taken. Quarantine facilities were created, isolation centres opened, and communications and rural outreach were established. Masks were made and distributed, PPE equipment and medical supplies were sourced and the city was scrubbed clean. What the city of Victoria Falls had achieved in less than a month was astounding – its level of readiness way ahead of any other city in the world.

The Taskforce team also realised that food security was going to be a challenge, so funds were raised and food hampers distributed to vulnerable families. This was however just a temporary band-aid, and long-term food security needed to be ensured. So, two community vegetable sites were identified and by 24 April three-hectare worth of vegetable seeds were ready to be planted. The ‘feed yourself, feed your community’ campaign was launched, and seedlings, black soil and manure were distributed to three local schools, and nutritional community vegetable gardens were rolled out in several of the villages that surround Victoria Falls to get the communities growing their own vegetables, and to assist in supplying the operators and individuals in Victoria Falls. A children’s feeding programme was started, and more than 100,000 meals were provided in under a month, and to date, an estimated 6,000 children have been fed every day. Additionally, a ‘food for work’ programme was established whereby volunteers were able to assist with various tasks around the

FOOD FOR THOUGHT | ZIMBABWE

City to upkeep its aesthetics and ensure it was clean – this included painting of roads, road signs, clean-up campaigns, offloading food donations for the children’s feeding programme and food distribution, amongst others. A massive 3,200 bags of waste has so far been collected by this programme. Food security wasn’t the only challenge: unemployment and hunger (and to a certain extent, greed), led to an increase in snaring and poaching incidents. Together with Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority and the police, the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit, working with Zambezi Horse Safaris, stepped up their anti-poaching patrols in and around Victoria Falls. Working with Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, countless wildlife has been saved from snares in rescue and rehabilitation efforts. Beyond the day-to-day challenges, there was also a need to keep this wonderful destination top of mind with international visitors so that they would be eager to visit once lockdown restrictions were lifted. Enter the establishment of ‘We Are Victoria Falls’, an independent, public-private partnership initiative representing the tourism community of Victoria Falls. This campaign, run under the Zimbabwe Destination Development by the Ministry of Environment, Climate, Tourism and Program, the Tourism and Hospitality Industry and supported by the International Finance Corporation (IFC), is mandated to ‘communicate reliable, up-to-date information on their destination’s management of COVID-19, provide verified updates on

destination readiness, openness and progress to receiving visitors and to celebrate and build their tourism community as part of Zimbabwe and the wider conservation region beyond their borders’. Almost a year after the COVID19 Taskforce was established, the government announced that vaccination rollout would take place in Victoria Falls City. This was widely welcomed by stakeholders in and around Victoria Falls who are eager to move forward with the recovery of tourism to the destination – and with 76% of their adult population vaccinated they are well on the way to achieving herd immunity. The trust built through the toughest months of this crisis has resulted in a phenomenal turnout at vaccination stations, something many other destinations have found difficult. “With the COVID-19 vaccine quickly rolling out across the world’s populations, many have started to look at travel plans to get out and explore the natural world, and Victoria Falls remains a prime destination and tourism hub, to offer wide-open spaces with a diversity of adventure experiences in a natural environment,” says Shelley Cox, We Are Victoria Falls, Campaign Consultant. International visitors are slowly returning, occupancy rates are increasing and the familiar ‘Vic Falls vibe’ can once more be felt. Locals and visitors alike mask up in public places and sanitising, social distancing and other COVID-19 protocols are observed. There are smiles behind the masks and music in the air... travel is resuming to this fabulous destination and financially things are finally looking up. www.wearevictoriafalls.com Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | BUMBUSI - A HIDDEN GEM

BUMBUSI A HIDDEN GEM

[ WRITER: Shelley Cox - Africa Conservation Travel ] [ PHOTOS: Nicholas Milne ]

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

in the Truest Sense

BUMBUSI - A HIDDEN GEM | ZIMBABWE Remoteness is hard to come by these days because everything we do is so proximal and interconnected. For many, the concept of remoteness is finding wild spaces off the beaten track, where solitude and connection to the natural world are possible without the clouded noise of our modern-day lives. Africa has some of the world’s largest remaining, wildest and most biodiverse natural landscapes where this solitude and reconnection to nature is possible. In Hwange National Park, a ‘Hidden Gem’ in the truest sense is Bumbusi Wilderness Camp, remote enough to offer the seclusion and solitude immersed within nature, yet relatively easily accessible from Victoria Falls. The stone and thatch chalets looking out onto the lawns and natural waterhole and spring, completely complimenting the geology of this reclaimed wilderness. Bumbusi Wilderness Camp lies in the Northern section of a reclaimed corner of Hwange National Park where various gorges, ancient river channels, drainage lines, rocky outcrops and hills dominate the landscape, and where wildlife have had very few encounters with any human presence. The rugged terrain is the perfect environment to immerse oneself into the wilderness and to connect that much more with the earth through a heightened sensory experience by slowing down and exploring on foot.

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | BUMBUSI - A HIDDEN GEM

[ Professional Guide Blessed Mpofu ] It was whilst exploring the gorge-lines and the “camouflage rocks” that professional guide Blessed Mpofu comes into his own, his passion for wildlife and the wild landscapes of Zimbabwe shining through with his every step, and with the knowledge he imparted about every detail of nature that we came across. From the detail of the trees in the area to the wildlife droppings and spoor, plants and petrified wood – Blessed went into detail about the history of the area, the important role everything plays within the ecosystem, and the threats to different species that inhabit these wild spaces of Africa. Our stay at Bumbusi was a bit of a juxtaposition – whether to get out and explore the area on foot more or stay within the confines of the oasis of the camp. Both options offering that essential element of solitude and connectedness to nature that we had been in search of. Nestled in the shade of mature indigenous trees and bolstered by a natural spring line feeding into a swimming pool and waterhole, the camp itself was not only a magnet for us to relax and unwind but a magnet for wildlife too. On one of the mornings where our group was undecided on what to do, the guys headed out for a walk to “camouflage rocks” and the ladies took the option to stay and enjoy the ‘earthiness’ and natural

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

BUMBUSI - A HIDDEN GEM | ZIMBABWE surroundings of the camp. We could not have chosen a better option, as a couple of hours later, the quiet serenity of our surroundings was disturbed by alarm calls of the baboons on the outskirts of the camp, and the sounds of a squealing warthog. Not even 200 metres from camp, two lions had killed a warthog… and the guys had missed it all! However, Bumbusi is not just about the landscapes and wildlife, the Bumbusi National Monument, located not far from the camp, offers an authentic cultural and historical element to the experience, and today remains a sacred site for the Nambya people. The National Monument of Bumbusi consists of two distinct parts, a dry-stone building now in ruins, thought to date from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; and a series of rock art engravings depicting spoor of wildlife and human footprints, many life-size and very distinct.

style to that of Great Zimbabwe. Whilst there has been some research conducted, due to its remote location, the archaeological site has not been researched intensively. It is however thought that the workmen chose an elevated site and levelled the ground, then built their walls around the outer edge. From the fact that in nearly all cases, traces of circular wood and dagga huts are seen within the walls, it would seem that these walls were built mainly for protection. The walls were three to four feet thick and rammed full of rubble and small stones. At the highest point of the fortified kopje a huge baobab tree casts a shade over Zanke’s kraal—a specially fortified enclosure at the top of the hill, with space for only one or two huts. The sole approach to this fortress was along a narrow passage enclosed by high walls and topped with small towers. The passage was wide enough for only one person to pass at a time, and it is believed that this could have been a former chief’s residence.

Constructed along the south side of Bumbusi and resting atop the sandstone kopjes, the ruins are built of sandstone slabs in a similar

The three sets of rock engravings at Bumbusi lie in close proximity to the Bumbusi National Monument. The first 180 metres from the

ruins, the second 800 metres away and the third about 2.5 kilometres away. The majority of the wildlife spoor depicted in the engravings can still be seen in Hwange National Park. On our last evening, as Blessed walked us through one of the rock engraving sites, we continued along a path that branched out into a small opening where a beautiful bush dinner had been set up for us to enjoy a night under the stars. It was the perfect end to an incredible few days enjoying the quiet solitude of this ‘Hidden Gem’, and reconnecting with nature in more ways than we had anticipated. The team at Bumbusi really enhanced the overall experience, with attention to detail in every aspect, and a friendliness that made you feel like you were in a “home away from home”. If you are looking for a true sense of remoteness that has a balanced blend of wildlife, landscapes and culture/history – and you are wanting to reconnect to nature – whether relaxing at camp or out on foot, then the wonderful Hidden Gem of Bumbusi is calling you.

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | EARLY MORNING BIRD CRUISE

On The

Zambezi River [ WRITER / PHOTOS: Sean Hind ]

On a recent visit to Victoria Falls, I was offered the opportunity to experience the mighty Zambezi River on an early morning birding cruise with Umdingi Safaris. I have often done the more popular sunset cruises but I had never been on the river early in the morning, so I thought it would be nice to try something new. We were on the water by 7:30 am, the Zambezi was calm and peaceful and the morning sunlight was stunning. I had had an idea of what birds we were likely to see but I was hoping I would see some of the specials as well, like the African skimmer and the rock pratincole, as it was the right time of the year to see these birds. The African Skimmer and rock pratincoles are both intra-African migrants and arrive in May and August respectively. Unfortunately, the African Skimmer is now regarded as an endangered species.

We were only about five minutes into the cruise when we approached a sandbank and wow, there on the sandbank in front of us was an African Skimmer, the morning birding cruise had gotten off to a flying start.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

EARLY MORNING BIRD CRUISE | ZIMBABWE

We spent the next three hours exploring sandbanks, rocky areas, little inlets, and some of the islands on the river. We saw all types of kingfishers from the giant to the malachite, long-toed lapwings dive-bombing an African fish eagle, and we even spotted some of the more secretive birds like the African Finfoot and both night herons, the black-crowned night heron and the white-backed night heron. The highlight of the morning for me was seeing my first rock pratincole and what a sighting it was, the bird was very relaxed just sitting on a rock watching us go by. What a way to spend a morning, very relaxing, hardly anyone else on the water and some really great birding - definitely something I would do again. Victoria Falls is a birders paradise. In Zimbabwe we get about 650 bird species, and in the Victoria Falls area, you can get over 470 species of birds, many of which are sought-after specials. The reason for this is the diversity of habitats, you have the rain forest next to the falls itself, and the amazing gorges below the falls which have been labeled an Important Birding Area (IBA) by Birdlife International. These gorges are a good place for sighting of the Verreaux eagle and the rare Taita falcon. Additionally, there is riverine woodland along the Zambezi river and away from the river, the Chamabonda Vlei.

Happy Birding!

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

BANFF LODGE BULAWAYO

RESERVATIONS www.banfflodgehotel.com +26 32 922 43176

THE DECK Restaurant

NEW ORLEANS Restaurant

BULLIES Pub

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | UNPACKING THE SAFARI INDUSTRY

Unpacking THE SAFARI INDUSTRY [ WRITER: Chris Chiparaushe ]

[ PHOTOS: Wilderness Safaris, African Bush Camps ]

An African safari holiday is on many people’s bucket list and the African safari holiday is a multi-faceted trip requiring expertise to put it together. It involves transportation (air, road, sometimes rail and water), accommodation, and activities. Safari planners and consultants put all these together so that guests have a seamless and wonderful experience. However, like the duck that looks calm and unruffled on the surface while paddling furiously under water, a lot is happening to ensure that guests enjoy a hassle-free and memorable safari trip. In the next issues of Travel and Leisure Zambia and Zimbabwe, we take a peek at what happens behind the scenes to get a better understanding of this fascinating industry. We look at the different types of safaris, the safari areas in Zambia and Zimbabwe, the roles people play in the industry, and what it takes to build a successful career in the industry.

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

UNPACKING THE SAFARI INDUSTRY | ZIMBABWE

The word safari is one of the most recognisable and versatile words in the world. It is said to have originated from Arabic and Swahili. There are many different types of African safaris. The most common distinction is between a hunting safari, also referred to as consumptive, and a photographic safari, also known as a non-consumptive. We will be looking at photographic safaris for now. Photographic safaris can be defined in so many ways which overlap and are inter-changeable: by type of location (lodge-based, mobile, or overland) and by mode of transport (fly-in, canoeing, hot air balloon, horseback, or self-drive). Safaris are also classified by specialty or main activity (birding, fishing, cycling, walking, conservation, or photographic) and can be privately guided or unaccompanied, budget, mid-range, or luxury. Safari has also assumed an all-encompassing nature to include activities that do not include wildlife like cultural interactions, scenic views, and other adventures. This is because a safari package often includes these activities and it becomes impossible to separate them. Safari can also be used to describe clothing (safari shirt, safari hat). Some staff in lodges and camps have even coined their own safari definitions like ‘sleeping safari’ (when guests are lying in and not doing an early morning activity) and ‘packing safari’ Safaris are conducted in many different areas with national parks being the most common. Other safari areas include Game Management Areas (Zambia), safari areas (Zimbabwe), private game reserves, sanctuaries, botanical reserves, botanical gardens, recreational parks, conservancies, game ranches, and game farms. A fairly recent addition is the Transfrontier Park also known as Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA) or Peace Park. Most of these safari areas are run by governments with private operators paying a lease fee to be able to conduct safaris in them. Others are privately owned or owned by communities with the government maintaining a supervisory role to ensure compliance with the law and best practice. There are small differences in operating rules based on land ownership but the overriding goal is to preserve the flora and fauna for people’s enjoyment.

Chris Chiparaushe

Chris Chiparaushe is a fully licenced professional guide who has led safaris in Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. Chris has worked in several capacities in the tourism industry including running several lodges and camps in South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe rising to positions of Chief Guide, Operations Manager, and Group General Manager. Chris has also run a Destination Management Company and a hospitality training company. Chris is currently a General Manager with a leading ecotourism and conservation company with several camps across Africa. He writes in his personal capacity.

Sept - Dec 2021 | TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZIMBABWE | UNPACKING THE SAFARI INDUSTRY

‘We came to Africa looking for animals but fell in love with the people.’ This often-repeated remark is one of the major reasons why many guests return to Africa year after year and sometimes to the same parks, lodges/camps, and often using the same guides. Some of them make longlasting friendships and bring their families and friends when they return. True, Africa is endowed with spectacular landscapes and fascinating animals but it is often the people that make a safari memorable. Africans are generally warm and friendly and guests often build deep relationships with the people they encounter on safari. Who are these people that guests encounter and share their love for the bush and stories with? These people range from bush pilots, safari guides, lodge/camp managers, hosts, receptionists, chefs, cooks, trackers, drivers, waiters, porters, maintenance people, camp hands, researchers, reservation people, general managers, operations managers, directors, rangers, scouts, wardens and many more. What qualifications and/ or experience is needed to fulfil such roles? How does one start in the safari industry? What characteristics does one need to succeed in this industry? Is one born for

TRAVEL & LEISURE | Sept - Dec 2021

the industry or can one learn and succeed? Is there a safari school? Join me as we tackle these questions in the next few editions. I will interview some of the tourism and safari industry’s gurus as well as the unsung heroes. Additionally, for your

inspiration, I will share some of the most breath-taking safari areas in Zambia and Zimbabwe. I will also draw on the experiences I have garnered through working in this safari industry for more than 25 years as we shine the spotlight on the safari industry.

For more information about Radisson Blu Hotel, Lusaka: Email: info.lusaka@Radissonblu.com +260 960 280 900 Radisson Blu Lusaka FB Page: @RadissonBluHotel Lusaka Instagram: RadissonBluLusaka Radisson Blu Hotel, Lusaka, is located at Lusaka’s New Business District within walking distance to one of Zambia’s largest malls. Our hotel has 142 elegant and spacious guestrooms & suites, offering our guests a comprehensive service including: The best Breakfast Buffet, the strongest (& free) WiFi, 9 multifunctional meeting rooms with state of the art Audio/Video equipment. Our main restaurant Chuma Grill & Bar serves International cuisine with a fusion of Zambian dishes. Our Weekend Braai is a local favourite. Relax at our pool and enjoy a light meal or cocktails from the bar. Radisson Blu Hotel, Lusaka is the first hotel in Zambia to have completed the international SGS Audit; focusing in Cleaning, Hygiene & Disinfection. This independent health and safety assessment ensures that all measures as outlined in the Radisson Hotels Safety Protocol are successfully followed. Learn more: https://bit.ly/2BnvmU By August 2021, 50% of our staff have been fully vaccinated.

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Travel & Leisure Zabia & Zimbabwe Sept - Dec 2021

Articles inside

Bumbusi - A Hidden Gem in the Truest Sense

Unpacking the Safari Industry

Food for Thought: A Victoria Falls City COVID-19 Success Story

Victoria Falls: The Perfect Wedding Destination

Paddling to a powerful beat - Canoeing the upper Zambezi

Helping hands in snake safety

Take a walk on the Wildside - North Luangwa

Mosi-oa-Tunya, and the mighty Zambezi River

Cycling for a Cause

Five reasons to visit Zambia

Exploring Conservation Careers with the North Luangwa Conservation Programme

REDD+: The new frontier of conservation finance in Africa

Bangweulu - where the Water meets the Sky

Supporting Wildlife Rangers in South Luangwa